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ODYSSEY T H E M A G A Z I N E O F T H E C H E V R O N A U T O C L U B • W I N T E R 2 02 2

Discovering Boulder, Colorado Cruising North American Shores Exploring the Netherlands All Those Springfields Winter 2022

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THE MAGAZINE OF THE CHEVRON AUTO CLUB

Dear Members, Many folks find the cooler temperatures and less crowded roads and destinations of fall and winter the ideal time to hit the road and travel. Whether seeking the beauty of a national park, the relaxation of a resort, or the pleasure of visiting family or friends—for the holidays or any other occasion—you might be one of our nation’s winter wayfarers. But ODYSSEY content isn’t just for the benefit of one-season travelers. ODYSSEY is really about travel all year round.You might want to make one of our featured destinations the end point of a trip, or a way point along your way, but there is more. Chevron Auto Club offerings are a source of comfort and security to travelers, and the Bulletin page is filled with items of interest to all, especially those on the go.

In this issue we will take you to Boulder, Colorado—a city with a mining history, outdoor recreation opportunities aplenty, and arts, culture, and sports performances presented thanks to a major university and one of the permanent Chautauqua centers in the U.S. And we’ll take a peek at the local practice of rock balancing. What is rock balancing you ask? Pretty amazing would be our response.

And we will investigate the Springfield phenomenon—taking a look at the fact that there are a lot of Springfields scattered all across many of the forty-eight states, yes, forty-eight. It turns out there are a lot of Springfields, but no Springfields in Alaska or Hawaii.

Are you ready to get out of your routine for something different? How about a cruise? You might be surprised—pleasantly so—at the changes that have been made by cruise lines to make cruising safer and just as comfy as ever. Staying close to home, you will find offerings that take you to a variety of ready-to-explore destinations off our very own shores. Or you can just stay on board and relax with the creative assortment of dining, recreational, and entertainment offerings on hand.

Finally we’ll focus our editorial lens on Holland—or, more correctly, the Netherlands. It turns out that Holland, although commonly used as the country’s name, is really just part of this compact country of canals, history, and—bikes!

Volume 53 Number 1

02 Colorado’s Rock-Solid Boulder

On the cover: The well-used Royal Arch Trail in Chautauqua Park takes hikers to the natural arch—a popular destination near Boulder.

Photo: Adam Hodges/Shutterstock

President Chevron Auto Club Patrick J O’Brien

Questions and comments regarding this magazine may be addressed directly to: Editor, ODYSSEY, 131 Stony Circle, Santa Rosa, CA 95401; cadb-delta@sonic.net

Visit the Chevron Auto Club online at:

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08 Cruising—Keeping Up with the Times

18 Holland—I Mean the Netherlands!

We commonly say “Holland” when we really mean the Netherlands. Although part of the Netherlands really is Holland—two provinces, North Holland and South Holland— only those two of the twelve provinces can truly claim that name. Whatever the names, a trip around the compact country is easy and rewarding. by Elsie K. Olsen

26 All Those Springfields!

Patrick J O’Brien, President, Chevron Auto Club

1-800-677-3939

A café occupies a grand building on the Pearl Street pedestrian mall in Boulder.

Alaska experience.

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is created, edited, and designed by the editorial staff and associates of C A Bergquist & Associates

For Auto Club Information contact:

Not far from Denver, but distant in many respects, Boulder is a place tied to nature by virtue of its setting at the foot of the Rocky Mountains’ Front Range. There is plenty to do in town, but the mountains to the west draw many seeking recreation, scenic views, history, and nature.

by Allen Denson

Keeping a firm grip on all the things that have made cruising a unique and memorable vacation experience, cruise lines have changed a few things to make the whole experience safer, more convenient, and—best of all—more fun for everyone. The same interesting ports of call await, but there are some new and innovative onboard activities and amenities that will make even the most experienced cruiser smile.

Crisp air and a spectacular view

by Alicia Atherton enhance this cruiser’s

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Chevron Auto Club, P.O. Box 830008, Miami, FL 33283-0008 Call toll-free, Monday through Friday 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Central time

Contents

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Wishing you, as always, safe travels,

Your Auto Club Is Always As Near As The Phone!

Winter 2022

ODYSSEY is the official publication of the Chevron Auto Club

Advertising Representative National C A Bergquist & Associates

916/668-9530

Naming a new city or town Springfield was a very popular civic choice in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries—and even into the twentieth century. There are so many Springfields that several popular TV shows have chosen Springfield as the generic town name for the show’s setting. We survey a selection of them.

by M. Maxwell Richardson Departments

14 Scenic Drives 16 Travel Bulletin 32 Travel Library

The Old State Capitol served as the seat of Illinois government from 1839 to 1876.

PHOTOS FROM TOP: DUSTIN HANDRICH / SHUTTERSTOCK; JAY L / SHUTTERSTOCK; KEVIN GEORGE / SHUTTERSTOCK; RANDY RUNTSCH / SHUTTERSTOCK

These traditional symbols of the Netherlands greet visitors on many a street.

ODYSSEY Volume 53, Number 1, December 10, 2022. Copyright © 2022. Cover or contents may not be reproduced in any form without written permission. ODYSSEY is a registered trademark. Chevron and Texaco logos are the registered trademarks of Chevron Corp. ODYSSEY (ISSN1073-5259) is published by the Chevron Auto Club. Address all editorial correspondence to ODYSSEY, 131 Stony Circle, Suite 500, Santa Rosa, CA 95401. • ODYSSEY and CA Bergquist & Associates, are not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, or artwork. • ODYSSEY is produced for distribution to members of the Chevron Auto Club. Individual issues are not available. • Presorted Standard A Postage paid at Liberty, Missouri. (Permit No.1215) POSTMASTER: Send change of address orders to ODYSSEY c/o Chevron Auto Club, Post Office Box 830008, Miami, FL 33283-0008. ODYSSEY provides information about lodging rates, hours of operation, ticket prices and admission fees. Readers should be aware that these are revised frequently, and

although believed to be accurate at press time, they are subject to change. It is the responsibility of the individual to verify details before travel.

Printed in the U.S.A.

A ROCK SOLID

ALEC WALSH / SHUTTERSTOCK

COLORADO D E S T I N AT I O N

BOULDER

By Allen Denson

I

t is said there are quite a few Texans in

Boulder, Colorado. Maybe not so strange when you EGVISUALS / SHUTTERSTOCK

consider the reason. Much of Texas is decidedly hot and humid in the summer. Boulder is not. Simple as that. Well—not quite as simple as that.

It actually has something to do with the turn-of-the-century Chautauqua Movement.

Back in 1897 both Boulder, Colorado, (est. 1871), and the Chautauqua Movement, (est. 1873), were fairly young. Both were entertaining visions of expansion. It so happens that in 1897 education administrators in Texas got the idea that teachers could benefit from 1) the intellectual-cultural Chautauqua experience, and 2) a summer stay at a somewhat cooler and less humid place. After an exploratory and ultimately persuasive visit to Boulder by the Texans, leading to the formation of the Texas-Colorado Chautauqua Association, a bond measure was passed by Boulderites to acquire land and fund the building of a brand new Chautauqua facility at Boulder. One hundred and twenty-five years later the Colorado Chautauqua is still going strong. And hosting more than a few Texans.

There are reasons aplenty (besides the Chautauqua) to make your way to Boulder, Colorado.

LITTLENY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK

Some folks go there to stay because it’s a nice place to live. But it is also a very nice place to visit— even if you are not simply taking a break from heat and humidity! Boulder is nestled against the base of a spectacular mountain range, and possesses the full array of shops, restaurants, lodgings, and activities one would expect to find in a smallish city of 108,000. The plus factors here are the cultural, sporting, and entertainment events at the university and the truly wide range of outdoor activities afforded by the location.

Of Boulder’s population, over one third is associated with the University of Colorado, including 37,000 students. So you might find yourself or someone

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you know heading to Boulder for a college education. Or—for higher education of a different sort—some serious tutelage in the culinary arts. In 1991, what would become the Culinary School of the Rockies was formed in Boulder.

With success came a name change and a tie-in with the prestigious Auguste Escoffier Foundation, the living legacy of the esteemed French chef Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935), father of the kitchen brigade system, the à la carte menu, and a number of recipes developed during his culinary oversight of some of LITTLENY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK

Chalk applied to hands (top) enhances the grip needed by rock climbers. Boulder’s Pearl Street pedestrian mall (above) presents Boulder in a most people friendly way. Hikers on the Chautauqua Trail (right) approach the iconic Flatiron formation. Fall color provides the backdrop for a view of Boulder Creek (opposite).

Europe’s most prestigious restaurants. Boulder’s Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts, now with a sister campus in Austin, Texas, provides a variety of programs ranging from professional chef training to home cooking instruction.

The focus is on the popular farm-to-table movement, enhanced by student extern time at a local farm-producer.

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Michael Grab, a phenomenal practitioner, travels the world demonstrating the delicate art of balancing rocks, having honed his skill with the stones in Boulder Creek. You are welcome to try your hand!

Boulder County has set aside over 100,000 acres of natural open land—laced with trails (from easy to challenging) and dotted with historical sites. One such site is the old stone Altona Schoolhouse, north of town at the southern end of the Heil Valley Ranch network of trails.Visitors take a step back in time as they enter the restored and furnished

No glue or cement, only gravity, holds these rocks (below) in balance in Boulder Creek. The Altona Schoolhouse, (bottom) as it appeared in 1888, now restored, presents visitors with a view back to that time in Boulder’s history.

c. 1880 schoolhouse. There is much you can do on your own, of course, but guided tours also are offered by a number of providers.

A selection includes cycling excursions (road, mountain, or e-bike), horseback riding, beverage sampling, snowshoeing, rafting, rock climbing, fly fishing, star gazing, hiking (of course!), and even hot air ballooning—almost anything you can think of.

As a tourist, getting out of Boulder proper on four wheels (or on two if you’re so “inclined”) means heading for the hills—or rather the mountains. The roads themselves heading west into the Front Range are worth the excursion alone. They are smooth, curvy, passing alternately through meadows and wooded sections, past rocky cut banks, and punctuated with places to stop along the way such as little trailhead parking lots. The main route into the mountains is Boulder Canyon Drive, which, among the several drives out of CARNEGIE LIBRARY FOR LOCAL HISTORY / MUSEUM OF BOULDER COLLECTION

CHRIS KELLER / GOOGLE MAPS / EARTH / BOULDER COUNTY

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to seek their fortunes. Boulder’s economy centered around supplying the region’s miners with the goods and services they needed.

Gold prospecting quickly moved farther and farther out, into the mountains, away from Boulder. This led to the creation of the smaller, more remote mining towns that still dot the mountainous slopes and valleys above Boulder. Some are small working towns to this day, others are ghost towns, but whatever their current state, they make interesting side trips from Boulder.

Information on these towns has been collected, along with available historical photographs, by the organization Western Mining History. It should be noted that although it was gold—discovered in 1857

by W.G. Russell and a group that included Cherokee Native Americans—that caused the Pikes Peak Gold Rush and spawned Colorado’s mining boom, other metals, notably silver and tungsten, were also mined and processed in the Front Range. Mining, in fact, was the major component of Colorado’s economy well into the twentieth century.

As the U.S. population expanded westward in the 1800s, the need for education accompanied the push. Towns like Denver were growing into cities, and on a flat, barren plain at Boulder, the building now known as Old Main rose up. It is today the centerpiece of the thoroughly modern University of

Colorado. Alumnus Scott Carpenter was the second human to orbit Earth, and among the faculty are five Nobel laureates in the fields of chemistry and physics. But for us visitors there is the Colorado Shakespeare Festival that for over 60 years has brought the bard’s work to life in a summer outdoor setting on the campus at the Mary Rippon Theatre. A full calendar of music and theater events at the university keeps students, locals, and visitors entertained any time of year. The beautiful Macky Hall is a world-class auditorium, and along with several other stages, hosts performances by visiting jazz, classical, opera, and dance performers. The superb facilities are home to the Takács Quartet and the university’s symphony orchestra.

If you are a CU alum you certainly know about Buffalo sports. Attending a game is a great excuse to make a trip back to Boulder.

And if you follow a team scheduled to play the Buffaloes—in Boulder—that’s a good reason for a visit, too.

While in town, take advantage of Boulder’s longtime commitment to its parks and open spaces. In fact, you could make that your main reason for your visit! The city and the county together maintain an extensive array of parks, museums, historical sites, some 300 miles of trails, and open land. There are so many facets to Boulder’s recreation scene, we’re able to note just a few.

Not surprisingly the sport of “bouldering” is popular. Climbers, from expert to novice, are afforded many spots in and around Boulder to practice their sport. For the somewhat less agile among us there are numerous trails to be hiked or biked, replete with fresh mountain air and grand scenery.

The Boulder area is the training ground for a number of professional cyclists, but the same roads are open to general cyclists, including bike friendly lanes all around town. Electric bikes are now a popular cycling alternative, but are restricted from a few of the local routes. If fly fishing is your thing, you will want to check out Rocky Mountain Anglers, a store and much more. RMA offers a large selection of tackle, along with clothing, classes, and a selection of guided trips. And their website posts local river reports. Among Boulder’s sixty public park offerings is Eben G. Fine Park on Boulder Creek near the city’s founding spot. The park is a popular place to see rock-balancing art. Boulder-based

MICHAEL GRAB / GRAVITY GLLUE

sold plots of land along the creek and eventually the town developed. Two years later, in 1861, the Colorado Territory was established and Boulder City eventually became the county seat of Boulder County.

The town’s growth at this time was attributable in the main to the prospectors who arrived in town, got their bearings, then fanned out into the area’s canyons and valleys

UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO HERITAGE CENTER

LITTLENY STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK

Assembled over a threeyear period by artisans from Tajikistan, the Dushanbe Teahouse (above) was gifted to Boulder in 1990 by its ancient Silk Road sister city Dushanbe, Tajikistan.The mining museum (below) at Nederland, west of Boulder, makes a good day-trip destination. Old Main (right), once the whole of the University of Colorado, is now a valued component of its history.

Back to the Chautauqua movement—Founded on the shores of Lake Erie in Ohio, the original institution quickly moved to western New York, where the seminal facility, now a National Historic Landmark, still operates.

As a movement promoting education based on the principles of the original, many traveling Chautauquas covered the states during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. A few permanent facilities took root operating on a year-round schedule, the one in Boulder being one of the earliest. Offering guests a smorgasbord of lectures, performances, and recreational choices plus on-site accommodations if desired, the Colorado Chautauqua, now with its own National Register of Historic Places designation, is a special facet of the Boulder experience.

Running through town is Boulder Creek, named for the boulders that had tumbled down from above. It shared its moniker with the settlement that arose on its banks and thus Boulder City was born (except that it was known as Red Rocks for a brief time). This happened in the late 1850s when prospectors combed the area for gold deposits. In 1859, Boulder City was established by a group of prospectors in what was then the Nebraska Territory. Having incorporated, the shareholders in the Boulder City Town Company

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by Life Insurance Company of North America.

Boulder, will get you up to the top most expeditiously. And at the top you will find Nederland, a historic mining town that sits astride Route 72, the Peak to Peak Scenic Byway. The first of Colorado’s official scenic byways, the 100-year-old Peak to Peak snakes its way for 55 miles from Estes Park in the north to I-70 at Idaho Springs in the south.

Nederland is one of the old mining towns west of Boulder that make for a good day trip. Its comprehensive mining museum presents the town’s mining history along with a steam shovel, one of the many used to dig the Panama Canal, and later used for mining near Nederland. Just a couple of miles to the west of Nederland is Eldora, Boulder’s

SEAN XU / SHUTTERSTOCK

Fall color brightens this spin down the Peak to Peak Scenic Byway that traverses the ridges and valleys of the Front Range to the west of Boulder.

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closest winter ski facility.

Twelve miles north of Nederland on the Peak to Peak Scenic Byway is Ward, another once prosperous town with a mining history. There are a few historical relics around Ward, but from Ward a trip down to Gold Hill takes you to the very rustic and period-authentic town in which preservation has been a priority since the early 1900s— thanks to the Bluebirds of Gold Hill, a women’s group from Chicago that convened regularly at Gold Hill, building their lodge there in 1920.

Between Ward and Gold Hill runs the gravel-paved Lickskillet Road, claimed to be the steepest county road in the country.

If you want to drive the steepest and the highest (paved) road in the country in the same day, drive south on the Peak to Peak byway through Black Hawk, a funfilled casino town with many preserved mining-era buildings along old Main Street in the historic district. Pick up State Hwy 103 south of Black Hawk at Idaho Springs for your trip to—or rather up—the 14,150foot high Mt. Evans. And yes, there thankfully is ample space to turn around at the top.

You will take the same road back down.

One last mining town to mention, though not a town at all (anymore), is Wall Street. It’s closer to Boulder and accessible by car or bicycle via Fourmile Canyon Dr. directly from town. The Colorado Wall Street was indeed named for the one in New York City, as a way to convey the financial aspirations and mining potential of the town and its developer, one Charles Caryl. An elaborate extraction mill employing revolutionary technology was built, the foundation of which is still present at Wall Street. The mill project failed, and all that

The highest paved road in the United States (left) snakes its way to the top of 14,150-foot Mt. Evans. The area’s mining days are preserved in the buildings of Central City at Black Hawk (below left). The foundation is all that remains of the large operation at Wall Street (below).

REX JAYMES / SHUTTERSTOCK

BRANDON IWAMOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK

Coverage For Hospital Confinement Due to a Covered Accident

remains in the former town are the great stone foundation, and an assay office that is now a mining museum.

Coming down from the mountains of the Front Range, we are tempted to say we have merely hit the high points of a trip to Boulder and its surrounding area. In many ways that is true. Boulder is a town of many possibilities— educational, cultural, and certainly recreational!

WESTERN MINING HISTORY

HOSPITAL INDEMNITY

I N F O R M AT I O N Boulder’s city webpage found at https://www.bouldercoloradousa.com/ is one-stop shopping for everything you might want to see and do around town—including places to eat and places to stay. Included are special guides, viewable online or in print by request, covering everything from the extensive local area shuttle service to a farm trails route.

A special section included in the Boulder website covers guided tours provided by local operators. Find it at https://www.bouldercoloradousa.com/thingsto-do/experiences-and-tours/outdoor/.

A bike trail map for Boulder and Boulder County can be viewed at: https://assets.bouldercounty.gov/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/boulder-countybike-map.pdf. The map is also a very good one for navigating, by car or motorcycle, the small roads, paved and gravel, that lead from Boulder west to

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the mining towns and ultimately to the Peak to Peak Scenic Byway.

The Boulder County website features a tab, https://bouldercounty.gov/departments/parks-and-open-space/, that emphasizes outdoor recreation. It features parks and other destinations that specialize in activities such as hiking, fishing, and rock climbing to name a few.

Boulder is home to Michael Grab, preeminent rock balancing artist. His work is featured in this website, https://www.anart4life.com/the-peacefulart-of-rock-balancing/ with text, photographs, and videos. Michael’s own website, www.gravityglue.com is a look at his extensive body of work.

Fly fishers will want to check out Rocky Mountain Angles in Boulder.

The website is https://www.rockymtanglers.com/. The store is located at 1904 Arapahoe Avenue in Boulder.

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CRUISING Stylistic animal depictions (above) are an integral part of totem pole carvings by indigenous Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian tribes. Poles were carved as memorials to the deceased, as storytelling venues for the community, or for clans to memorialize the family’s ancestry.

by Alicia Atherton

YOUR HOME SHORES T H E E A S T A N D W E S T C OA S T S

C

PHOTOS: LEFT: JEFF WHYTE / SHUTTERSTOCK; ABOVE::YUESTOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK

ruising is back and the new ships are bigger, and frothier, than

ever with new tech, new activities, and new amenities of every stripe. Whether you’re traveling with the family, with friends, as a couple, or even solo, the cruise industry continues to add choices to better fit your wishes, and your budget.

You really don’t have to leave the U.S. to enjoy a fantastic cruise. Both

even allow passengers to use their phone as a room key—beating the “I dropped my key somewhere” nightmare.

Whether you hop aboard on the East Coast or West Coast, there are convenient ports within a day’s driving of the majority of travelers (clearly not everyone). Boarding in San Francisco or Seattle on the West Coast, you can choose north or south sailings. Go north and head to the perennial

new, mega-ships, as well as smaller expedition ships. There are over 13 boarding/

favorite, the “inside passage” of Alaska, or head south to follow the Pacific

disembarking ports spread out along the two coasts, with many thoughtful

Coast Highway and enjoy whale watching, wine tasting, and the iconic

amenities and conveniences built into the harbor areas to make the start and

beach towns of southern California.

Over the years, and with lots of lessons learned during the pre- and post-

On the East Coast, start at our own history-rich cities of New York or Boston, and head north with possible stops at Providence, Portland, Bar Harbor,

pandemic years, they have added increased safety and convenience protocols

or Martha’s Vineyard, before hitting Canadian harbors. Or, pick a cruise that

such as advanced air filtration systems, new sanitizing and disinfecting technology,

heads south to places such as Norfolk, Charleston, Port Canaveral, Ft. Lauderdale,

touch-less electronics, streamlined muster station drills, buffet items served by

Miami, Bermuda, and islands privately operated by the cruise line. There are

wait staff, expanded medical services, increased wi-fi, and daily information,

even a few cruises that start in Miami and go all the way to Quebec with several

including your itinerary, delivered via an app on your phone, to name a few.

stops at U.S. cities. All of this right at, or close to, our own shores!

For those who have been on cruises previously, using an app on your phone to make reservations for dining and shore excursions is a big plus. Some apps

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PHOTOS: ABOVE: GARY SAXE / SHUTTERSTOCK; TOP RIGHT:JAMES STEIDL / SHUTTERSTOCK; MIDDLE RIGHT: RUDY BALASKO / SHUTTERSTOCK; BOTTOM RIGHT: SOLARISYS / SHUTTERSTOCK

coasts of the U.S. have updated harbors to accommodate the new, and nearly

finish of your vacation smooth sailing.

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OF NORTH AMERICA

In response to queries about cruising, we’ve often replied that cruising

Cruise ships (top) come in all sizes and you can choose which cruise will suit your needs. The vineyards of Sonoma and Napa (above left) in Northern California produce world-class wines.

Walking across the Golden Gate Bridge (above right) is a popular shore excursion activity for San Francisco’s port of call. The generous breakfast (above) comes with a view.

is not so much about traveling, but more about vacationing—you can be as

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Seaplane flights are a popular excursion. Here a plane (right) has landed on a placid lake high in Misty Fjords, where the pilot waits for passengers to return.

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AMANDA WAYNE/SHUTTERSTOCK

You can plan your cruise to coincide with fall foliage, springtime blooms, or maybe just to get away from the summer heat ...

Combining historic city tours with the colorful fall foliage season is one of the most popular ways to cruise the East Coast.

Though the timing of the changing of the leaves is not precise, you’ll never be left high and dry as there is so much natural beauty to photograph from the ship, or to explore on shore excursions, with or without the spectacular fall colors. Out West, aside from Alaska’s famous inside passage, the cities of San Francisco, Los Angeles, and San Diego are the most requested bookings.Your primary window of opportunity on both north coasts is generally mid-May through September, while the south coasts have an expanded time frame.

rides to an ice field, and Zodiac adventures, to name a few. Two of the most memorable for us were the seaplane trip, out of Ketchikan, which circled and landed on a pristine lake high up in the peaks of Misty Fjords, and a guided hike inland at Skagway along a trail

ALASKA

that included 4-foot-tall skunk plants that bears eat at certain times of the year—we saw bite marks and paw prints. Each town’s history means that each port has a different focus, whether it be man-made history or nature-made awesomeness.

WEST COAST The hustle and bustle of San Francisco, with its clanging cable car bells, the lively Pike Place Market in Seattle, and the glitz of Hollywood offer favorite cityscape excursions that punctuate the cruises along the West Coast that typically have a relaxed, laid-back vibe that matches the weather and the scenery.

Visits to wine country (Sonoma and Napa in the north, and Santa Barbara in the south) have become favorites on the excursion list. Some cruise lines are upping the experience by offering onboard wine tastings, food pairings, and education to highlight California-style wine and cuisine— by the time you arrive at the winery, you won’t feel like a novice.

Santa Barbara, often called “America’s

DAILY TRAVEL PHOTOS / SHUTTERSTOCK

Our very first cruise was to Alaska and it was fabulous, so it will always remain a favorite destination for us. Our tour was round-trip out of Vancouver, B.C., but there are several options. Round-trip does save a little money, as driving or flying in and out of a single location is generally less expensive. The tradeoff is that usually, not always, there are fewer stops and less time in port to enjoy the excursions, and more time at sea. One-way trips generally allow more time in port and have more excursions, which include both pre- and post-excursions at different locations. But, honestly, no matter if you chose one-way or round-trip, your Alaskan voyage will be memorable.

A classic cruise to Alaska will be seven nights round trip and will board in Seattle or Vancouver, but San Francisco has recently been added for a few sailings. All great locations for pre- or post-cruise excursions.

The “Inside Passage” of Alaska is a truly unique voyage, as the waters of the channels are unusually deep and wide compared to other locales so that large ships can navigate up close to sheer cliffs and glaciers.

All the towns on the port stops offer a wide variety of free self-guided walking and hiking tours, as well as guided tours, with plenty of local history highlighted.

Shore excursions available for purchase include hiking tours with knowledgeable guides, fishing charters, dog sledding, helicopter

DANCESTROKES / SHUTTERSTOCK

DARKO MARKOVIC DARKO / SHUTTERSTOCK

RIC JAYCNO / SHUTTERSTOCK

Famous artist, Nathan Jackson (top), of Chilkoot Tlingit heritage, demonstrates his technique in front of visitors to the Carving Shed in the Native Village in Saxman, near Ketchikan, Alaska.

The tramway in Juneau (above) climbs up Mount Roberts for stunning views, and at the top, a nature center, shops, a theater, restaurant, and hiking trails await visitors.

relaxed and pampered as you want while enjoying the gentle (most of the time) motion of the ocean. However, if you want to “travel,” the pre- and post-excursions and numerous shore excursions at ports of call certainly fill that bucket list.

There are also cruise line offerings, fairly new to our shores, on smaller ships, that emphasize expedition-style cruising (premium pricing) where the onboard expedition crew will help you get up close and personal with nature, while not roughing it. There are far fewer passengers on these vessels and the passenger-to-staff ratio is often 2-to-1. These vessels are also capable of visiting much smaller harbors, allowing them to travel further inland via smaller waterways.

Getting to the heart of it, sussing out which cruises offer which shore excursions at each port of call is well worth the effort before booking. But, keep in mind, things happen (like hurricanes) and occasionally a port of call must be dropped due to circumstances beyond the cruise line’s control, so be prepared if you’ve set your sights on just one place that is a must-see for you. This is where travel insurance can rescue you if something unforeseen happens—whether it’s a medical reason, cancelled flight, weather, or multiple other situations— depending on which insurance package you purchase.

Currently, there are insurance packages that will even cover cancelled shore excursion costs plus related expenses.

Caribbean sailing routes, from the East Coast, typically commanded the newest ships, but the West Coast routes, with the ever increasing popularity of Alaska and Latin American ports, are beginning to see brand new ships deployed. Princess Cruises, one of the first on the West Coast, has over 50 years of sailings out of San Francisco’s port—there are now more than 15 cruise lines using the port—and Princess just added a new ship in 2022, with more to come. If the newest and shiniest ship is what you are after, all the cruise lines eagerly brag about their new ships coming out, so they are not hard to find. Remember, though, that older cruise ships, just like hotels, are regularly refurbished, and new amenities and programs are added or dropped according to passenger preferences. The date of refurbishing is listed on almost all the booking websites, so you will know exactly when the ship was last touched up.

You can plan your cruise to coincide with fall foliage, springtime blooms, or maybe just to get away from the summer heat. No matter which season you choose, there are plenty of shore excursions that take advantage of what nature has to offer.

There are shorty cruises of 3 or 4 days, which are fine, but if you’re in need of some true R&R, I would recommend at least seven days. And, if you have the time, a round trip of 13 to 15 days really gives you the time to take advantage of all that cruising has to offer.

When cruising the West Coast, Balboa Park (top) is a not-to-be-missed excursion for the San Diego port of call.

The iconic cable cars of San Francisco (above) ply the hills of downtown as they have for many decades.

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excursions you are interested in before booking your cruise; don’t rely on the port stops alone to make your decision. Also, be sure to check how long each port stop is so you know if you have enough time for self-guided exploring.

EAST COAST The popular fall foliage tours in the Northeast are the premier draw for East Coast cruising, and most cruise ports of call cater to that much sought after experience.

The view from the ship rivals that from the land when viewing the explosion of forest color that stretches to the water’s edge. You will find several small ship outfitters cruising along the East Coast that take advantage of smaller harbors and inland waterways, with passenger counts from 150 to 900.

The fall foliage tours begin and end in historic cities that are well worth exploring either before or after the cruise. Excursions are typically offered to places like Boston’s Freedom Trail and the historic mansions of Newport, as well as Quebec’s Chateau Frontenac, during the ports-of-call stops.

Visiting and photographing lighthouses is an enduring pastime. You will not be disappointed with the chance to view, and tour, several historical lighthouses—there are Castle Hill and Rose Island lighthouses in Newport, Edgartown Lighthouse on Martha’s Vineyard, and Portland Head Light, the oldest lighthouse in Maine, to name a few. The number and selection of lighthouses will depend on your route.

An excursion out of Portland will take you to the historic village of Kennebunkport, home of the Summer Whitehouse during the Bush years. Greek Revival and Victorian-style mansions built in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries by wealthy merchants line the tidy streets.

A ferry ride takes you across Cacos Bay

to Peaks Island to enjoy a classic lobster bake, a quintessential Maine experience.

During the fall season, a visit to Maine would not be complete without a tour of Acadia National Park.

While most of the big ship cruises focus on a northeast U.S. to Canada route, smaller cruise ships hit numerous ports all up and down the coast. A few big ship cruises will head south from Baltimore and will stop at Charleston, Port Canaveral/Orlando, and the Bahamas, or similar stops. A classic cruise from New York will be a 7-night excursion down to Florida and the Bahamas. Of course, there are also many itineraries that go all the way to the eastern Caribbean, but that’s another story. There are even a few cruises that originate in Florida and end in Quebec, with lots of ocean time if that’s to your liking.

The lobster bake at Bar Harbor in Maine is always a crowd favorite (left). Lighthouses hold a special place in the hearts of enthusiasts, and this light house on the coastline of Maine (below) is sure to please.

SHACKLEFORD PHOTOGRAPHY / SHUTTERSTOCK

Faneuil Hall in Boston, c. 1742, is a stop on the National Park Service’s Freedom Trail self-guided tour. The city of Boston takes pride in presenting the Hall as “the home of free speech” and the “Cradle of Liberty” in recognition of the events that took place at this town center.

Beverly Hills, downtown Los Angeles, and Olvera Street showcase the ‘old’ LA. San Diego port stops are usually long, until 10 p.m. or later, and all the highlights are close to downtown, so you’ll have an opportunity to take in more than one or two adventures—not to be missed is a visit to Balboa Park and the San Diego Zoo. There are plenty of offerings for naturelovers all along the coast from whale watching to hikes among 1,000-year-old redwoods.

Cruise lines often partner with local, and even world-renowned experts, who share their experience and knowledge with tour groups. The waters of the Channel Islands, just off the coast of Santa Barbara, is a popular whale watching spot, and Muir Woods, just north of San Francisco, offers a hike through the iconic redwoods of California.

You’ll find diverse and plentiful excursion lists on the California coast cruises as the iconic highlights of each region are very accessible from the ports.

It’s imperative to read up on the shore

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JORGE SALCEDO / SHUTTERSTOCK

Riviera,” has risen sharply in popularity among cruisers.

No surprise, as this picturesque town with its Spanish Colonial Revival architecture, beautiful scenery, enticing beaches, water activities, and surrounding wineries has so much to offer. A stroll down tree-lined State Street, with its shops and restaurants, will give you that Riviera vibe.

The architectural style of the nearby historic Santa Barbara County Courthouse is a popular attraction.

Los Angeles’ port of call has one of the longest lists of excursions available. There’s Hollywood and Sunset Boulevard, of course, but also beach outings at Santa Monica, Venice, and Huntington Beach (Surf City), to name a few. The world-class Getty Museum near Santa Monica is also worth adding to your list, as well as the vibrant art gallery scene of the Los Angeles area.

I N F O R M AT I O N Akin to selecting a hotel, picking the type of ship and the location of your cabin make a big difference in the enjoyment of your journey.

You have the option of choosing your own cabin on a cruise—highly recommended. There are many variables to choosing a cabin. Ever been annoyed by a loud ice machine near your hotel room? Elevator noises?

Well, it’s no different on a cruise ship, but there are many more variables due to the nature of dance lounges, theaters, and music venues.

If noise bothers you, you won’t want a cabin above or below public venues. Same with busy corridors close to crew quarters, and the like.

The elephant in the room—seasickness. While big ships don’t typi-

FOR

T R AV E L E R S

cally evoke sickness, if you are concerned, be sure to choose a cabin near the middle of the ship—cabins at the front have the most wave motion, aft has motor vibrations, which can have the same effect as waves.

Most of the major cruise lines operate on both coasts. Small ship cruises on the East and West coasts include American Cruise Lines and National Geographic/Linblad ships that include onboard expedition team members.

Passports: The rules keep changing, but to be safe, assume you need a passport, as the law requires each ship to make one stop, no matter how brief, at a port outside the U.S.— i.e., Victoria, Ensenada, Bahamas, New Brunswick, etc.

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SCENIC DRIVES

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able-for-download.

Paved or off-roading— the Silver Thread 117-mile route allows you to access rugged backcountry roads that get you up close to old mining sites that can be seen from paved highway 149. There are two old mining towns on the route, Creede and Lake City, with shops, food, and camping. The mining towns, which include an

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BARNES IAN / SHUTTERSTOCK

Silver Thread Scenic Byway, Colorado

This 75-mile scenic loop in the Davis Mountains State Park in far west Texas on TX-118 and TX-166 reaches an elevation of 6,700 feet, the highest road in Texas. There

PHILIP ARNO PHOTOGRAPHY / SHUTTERSTOCK

Joshua Tree National Park’s nearly 800,000 acres showcase a landscape formed by extreme heat, winds, and rain, creating both dramatic and often playful-looking geologic features. The north entrance near Twentynine Palms and the Visitor Center on Hwy 62, will hit many of the highlights in a 30-mile point-to-point route on Park Boulevard. This unique desert wilderness is not big on facilities, so plan ahead, especially if you’re taking any of the 4-wheel drive side routes. The main route will take you by famous rock formations such as Jumbo Rocks and the Hidden Valley area, popular with rock climbers. The park encompasses an area where two distinct desert ecosystems meet, the Mojave Desert (high) and the Colorado Desert (low).

The gnarly Joshua tree, native to the Mojave, the rock formations, and the variety of desert plants and animals make this a truly memorable drive.

are several, not one, peaks in the park.

Fort Davis, the startand endpoint of this loop, is a classic small town, situated at the foot of the mountains. The Fort Davis National Historic Site with nearly 100 building sites, a few completely restored, offers a glimpse into life at a frontier military post in the southwest in the late 1800s. Along the route, there are fantastic views of multiple mountain peaks from the flats, and awe-inspiring overlooks from the ridge tops. The turnoff at route 78 leads to the McDonald Observatory of the University of Texas at Austin. It is located on Mount Locke in the park.

There is a Visitors Center with detailed information, and daily guided tours (check ahead for times).

Badlands Loop Road, South Dakota It’s not just a feeling, you know you’re in the middle of nowhere in the

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Tennessee and North Carolina

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ROBERT WALTMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK

Northern Michigan’s scenic byway, M-119, leads to a 20-mile wooded corridor dubbed “Tunnel of Trees.” Be sure to pull off to get a chance to be mesmerized by the dappled light and color variations surrounding you. The route offers more than just trees, as spectacular as they are; there are also charming little towns nearby, views of Lake Michigan, dunes for climbing, and strolls along the beach. Start in Harbor Springs, a popular resort town, and follow M-119 as it skirts the lake and heads into the trees on your way to Cross Village. Halfway through is the tiny hamlet of Good Hart, where the Good Hart General Store has been operating since the 1930s. Perhaps purchase a Petoskey stone (above), unique to the area, in town before heading to the trees—a unique keepsake.

Badlands National Park; self-reliance is key. This 58-mile route on SD 240 in the North Unit of the park sets you in the middle of stunning, colorful rock formations of buttes and spires that make you feel gleefully small. For the explorer-types, some of the country’s richest fossil beds are found here in the layers of sediment deposits. There are nearly a dozen overlooks worth stopping at to memorialize the view with your favorite camera. Be sure to stop at the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, part of the park’s headquarters, for information and a good map before heading out. The route is not a loop per se, start point and end point, but it does take you to and from the main interstate I-90, which runs through Sioux Falls. Turn off I-90 at Exit 110 to State Hwy 240, at the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site.

Davis Mountain Scenic Loop, Texas

Joshua Tree Scenic Drive, California

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underground mining museum and tours, are an added bonus to the scenic beauty of the rugged peaks of the Rio Grande.

Don’t miss a chance to stop at the overlook to hear the roar of North Clear Creek Falls twenty-six miles west of Creede at turn-off 510 (facilities on site). The town of South Fork makes a good base camp for an out-and-back trip, or continue on to Blue Mesa Reservoir, with additional camping, hiking, and fishing spots. (Elevation 9,560).

Tunnel of Trees, Michigan

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aking a scenic drive is a great way to see our vast country one road at a time.

There is an abundance of routes to choose from—something in every state. We’ve chosen a few for you to consider. The “ Scenic America” website has a listing of scenic drives in every state at www.scenic.org/blog/state-scenic-byways-maps-avail-

WILLIAM SILVER / SHUTTERSTOCK

TECHWISEGUY / SHUTTERSTOCK

the staff of ODYSSEY.

J W COHEN / SHUTTERSTOCK

“Scenic Drives” is compiled by

Newfound Gap Road, Interstate 441, that connects Gatlinburg, Tennessee with Cherokee, North Carolina, crosses the national park at the sweet spot. There is so much to see and do amid this mere 36 miles, don’t be tempted to drive straight through.

The drive can be accomplished in one and a half hours, but best to plan three to four hours to take the turn-offs to historical sites, short easy trails, and, of course, the great views, both near and far. Don’t miss Clingman’s Dome Road turn-off, which is twenty miles from Cherokee, and the observation tower (steep half-mile path from the Visitor Center) with spectacular views from your perch of 6,643 feet elevation, highest point in the Smokies.

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BULLETIN

T R A V E L

Swiss Card Lite

New and noteworthy items and events. Check them out!

Compiled by the editorial staff of ODYSSEY

This little LED cardlight comes with its own set of handy tools.

Scissors, tweezers, pressurized pen, pin, multitool, magnifier, and emergency blade, all tucked into this credit card-sized gem of a puzzle. www.Victorinox.com. Approx. $50.

Weather, What Weather?

The All-Weather Duckboot by Huckberry is waterproof, stylish, and good for all-day comfort. A shock-absorbing midsole, breathable membrane that wicks away moisture, and ‘Trapunto” toe box enhance wearability. The Vibram outsole offers great traction anywhere. Approx. $188. www.huckberry.com.

E-Z Up Combo If you already have an E-Z Up canopy, slant or straight leg, you can turn it into a roomy tent instantly. E-Z Up Camping Cube™ Sport, and Cube 6.4 attaches directly to your trusty canopy, turning it into a full-fledged tent with handy features like doggy-door, screens, wide-entry, and storage pockets. Starting at $120. www.ezup.com, or amazon.com.

Espresso Will Travel Can’t function without your morning espresso? The Wacaco’s Nanopresso is a mini marvel that can go anywhere with you. Your morning cup-of-joe is never out of reach.

Several versions, including an adapter for pre-made capsules, are available. www.wacaco.com. Approx. $70.

Crossover Crossbody travel bags have been around for a long time, but their rising popularity in the men’s market shows that men have caught on to the comfort and safety that this bag style has to offer.

Check out the antitheft, water-resistant bag with charging port by Sunmop.

Approx. $32. www.amazon.com.

Comforts of Home If you’ve gotten use to the simple pleasure of a silk pillowcase as part of your nightly routine, taking a Mulberry Park Silks pillowcase, with travel case, on your next trip is a no-brainer.

Lightweight and takes up so little space.

(Tip: take a bright color so you won’t forget it.)

Approx. $25.www.mulberryparksilks.com.

More than just cute bunnies: Beatrix Potter

There’s an app for that—

The curtain is pulled back and the multi-faceted life of muchbeloved children’s author and illustrator, Beatrix Potter is showcased in an interactive exhibit curated by the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. The “Beatrix Potter: Drawn to Nature” exhibition contains over 200 of Potter’s personal artifacts including letters, photographs, artwork, sketches, and manuscripts.

The exhibit explores not only her creative work, and how she developed her characters, but also her endeavors in scientific studies, farming, and conservation that are all an integral part of her legacy.

A beautifully composed 216-page companion book, published by Rizzoli Electa, 2022, is available on Amazon. The exhibit will be on display at the Frist Museum, 919 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203, April 7-September 17, 2023. www.fristartmuseum.org.

or a gadget, device, or service that will help you find the travel information you need to make your trip as surprise-free as possible and keep everything on track.

You’ve probably noticed that when you’ve queried trip-related information online, a slew of websites promoting their apps pop up—many are quite good.

There are two main categories of apps—the planning and booking stage, and the onthe-go stage.

For planning, most folks are familiar with online travel agencies (OTA) like Expedia, Travelocity, and Priceline.

Apps using a metasearch, like Kayak, Travelzoo, and Google Flights, among others, claim better rates. (Note: OTAs book direct, while metas connect you to the seller.)

But there are apps that specialize in a single feature—think Airbnb, Uber, and Lyft.

Omio adds train, busses, and ferries to their airline bookings.

Viator specializes in booking local tours. But, there are many, many specialty apps of all kinds.

Check out these few specialty apps to use on-the-go: iExit, interstate services Autio, US road trip stories HotelTonight, last-minute room reservations MyTSA, wait time info GlobeTips, tipping info TheFork, restaurant booking AllTrails, hike, bike, run Localeur, verified local reviews FlightAware, live flight tracker MAPS.ME, offline maps RickSteves, offline travel intel TimeShifter, master jetlag SkypeWiFi, VoIP service XECurrency, realtime rates GoogleTranslator, languages As with all travel plans, have fun researching it all and decide what’s worthy of your time and money.

Mini Multi-Stove A compact, light-weight multi-fuel camp stove that lets you choose wood or gas.

Great stove to keep in the trunk for spontaneous, or emergency, stops on a road trip. An additional adapter allows the stove to make use of fuel tablets and liquid fuels as well. Starting at $65. www.ncamp.com.

Keep It Steady

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Light Watch Chandler Eco-Drive Movement watch by Citizen in green is stylish, durable, and useful. Its features include water resistance to 330 feet, 1/s/60 minutes chronograph, 24-hour display, and date, along with stainless steel construction, power-save, and solar/indoor light charging good for decades.

Approx. $150. www.amazon.com.

The Humble Donut

“Honor, Courage, Commitment: Marine Corps Art, 1975-2018” The National Museum of the Marine Corps has curated a traveling exhibit of artwork from the museum’s Combat Art Gallery, and others. The 34 paintings and two sculptures created by the artists, most of whom were deployed in combat, result in a knowedgable commentary on the experience of the men and women of the Marine Corps.

The last two stops of the tour are scheduled at the Turtle Bay Exploration Park, Redding, CA from January 21 to April 30, 2023, and the George H. W. Bush Presidential Library & Museum, College Station, TX, from May to September, 2023.

The 120,000 sq. ft. building on the 135-acre site of the National Museum of the Marine Corps is located at 1775 Semper Fidelis Way, Triangle, VA 22172.

Online information at www.usmcmuseum.com.

bloggers, or for those who just want to share video with family and friends, without making them dizzy. Check out DJI’s 3-axis OM 4, or the OM 5 for the serious videographer.

Approx. $159. www.dji.com.

A handheld gimbal stabilizer for your iPhone is a great asset at sporting events— be they youngsters or pros. Great for travel

Toss the GoDonut in your bag and go. You will have a tough, durable, and handy stand with no sharp edges for phones and tablets.

Available in so many colors, there’s going to be one that is just right for you.

Made in USA. Approx. $20. www.godonut.com.

Happy Travels!

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R

SERGII FIGURMYI / SHUTTERSTOCK

by Elsie K. Olsen

ecently, while shopping for an electric bike, we came across a highly rated,

very well-made, sturdy e-bike made by Royal Dutch Gazelle. We were surprised to learn that it came from the Netherlands—although, it really shouldn’t have been surprising, as it is common knowledge that Amsterdam is a city laced with bicycle lanes throughout the city that serve thousands of daily two-wheel commuters.

The Royal Dutch Gazelle bicycles hail from Dieren, in the province of Gelderland.

The title, Royal, was bestowed by Princess Margriet in 1992 at the 100th anniversary of the creation of Gazelle. That same year, the eight-millionth bike rolled off the elaborate assembly line.

NEIRFY/SHUTTERSTOCK

P I C T U R E P E R F E C T

PHOTOS: ABOVE: NEIRFY / SHUTTERSTOCK; LEFT: PENTITHAL / SHUTTERSTOCK; BELOW: E Q ROY / SHUTTERSTOCK

THE NETHERLANDS The eastern province of Gelderland is one of ten provinces surrounding the two provinces of Holland. While Holland does, without a doubt, attract tourists from around the world, there are dozens of trip-worthy cities spread throughout the other ten provinces that showcase not only historical sites, but some of the most innovative, modern architecture found anywhere in the world. Framed by tidy farmlands, canals, and nature preserves, the relaxed vibe of the provinces is impossible to ignore. A bonus—the outer provinces afford a great chance for a more immersive cultural experience without the hustle and bustle of the busiest cities that

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cater to the tourist market.

First, let’s break it down—many English speakers still refer to the Netherlands as Holland. While not taken as an offense by Netherlanders, it is inaccurate. (Indeed, until recently, the moniker Holland was promoted in tourist literature both inside and outside of the Netherlands when referring to the country). To be accurate, Holland is actually two provinces (Noord-

WORLDPICS / SHUTTERSTOCK

The Binnenhof complex (Netherlands parliament) as viewed from across the Hofvijver (court pond) in The Hague (top). The Torentje (small tower) on the left is the office of the Prime Minister. The iconic chair design (above) by Gerrit Rietveld was created as part of the furniture for the Schröder House in Utrecht. The famous Cube Houses (right) in Rotterdam were built with community engagement in mind. Classic scenes on Amsterdam’s canals (opposite top) are bridges festooned with flowers, and parking spots for bicycles.

A detail (opposite bottom) from the main door of the Het Loo Palace in Apeldoorn.

Holland and Zuid-Holland) in the Netherlands, collectively referred to as Holland. Holland is one of the oldest major trading centers in Europe,

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FRIESLAND DRENTHE

NORTH HOLLAND FLEVOLAND Amsterdam

OVERIJSSEL Apeldoorn

The Hague

SOUTH HOLLAND

UTRECHT

GELDERLAND

Rotterdam Nijmegen Breda

NORTH BRABANT

ZEELAND LIMBURG

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Maastricht

The fourteenth-century river and road gate, Koppelpoort, is one of the main attractions in the quaint town of Amersfoort, just 15 minutes from Utrecht. With as many as six trains in an hour, it’s an easy intercity train trip. Free of crowds, you will have plenty of time to explore the old town center, shops, and Mondrian House.

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One unique museum in The Hague, Escher in the Palace, is dedicated to M.C. Escher. A master Dutch printmaker, Escher created a wondrous world of visual illusions such as his iconic piece, House of Stairs, produced in 1953. The image continues to be reproduced in countless formats around the world even today.

For collectors, the home of the famous blue and white Delft Blue earthenware is just east of The Hague.You can visit the last remaining factory, Royal Delft, where they still paint the pottery by hand. Delft is also the birthplace of Johannes Vermeer, the master of “Dutch light.”

Reproductions of all of Vermeer’s paintings, and insights into his life and times, can be seen at the Vermeer Centre Exhibition. It takes only about an hour to stroll the magnificent car-free city center shopping district.

A twenty-minute train ride from The Hague is the city of Rotterdam. In contrast to Amsterdam’s historic storybook look, Rotterdam is a very modern industrial city.

Having been nearly destroyed in WWII, the city of Rotterdam made the decision not to rebuild the old, but build new. Home to the

largest port in Europe, and third in the world, it serves the biggest tankers ever built. The Maritime Harbor Museum chronicles the history of the harbor in a very hands-on way and also allows visitors to board a wide variety of historical vessels.

Visitors who have a strong interest in architecture also come to Rotterdam to view the many outstanding modern designs.

A colorful example is the well-known Cube Houses designed by architect Piet Blom. In the late 1970s, Blom was commissioned to build housing on top of a pedestrian bridge crossing a major road. The creative solution included the concept of building a community where each dwelling cube represented a tree, creating a forest of habitation, and a social network. To achieve this vision, the 1080 square-foot, 3-storied houses have been turned on a 45 degree angle and mounted on a hexagon-shaped concrete stalk. While living in a piece of art may not be easy, every house is occupied. See the photo on page 18. One cube house is open as a museum of sorts, Kijk-Kubus, and one is available for booking at StayOk Hostel Rotterdam.

Nearby, in the village of Kinderdijk, the nineteen windmills at the Kinderdijk World Heritage site will scratch that “must-see-windmills” itch. Get a hands-on experience, and also learn why the iconic windmills of the Netherlands came to be, and how the millers operate them. As the control of water, both from the sea and rivers, is such an integral part of the existence of the Netherlands, this museum is an important stop on any itinerary.

EVERETT COLLECTION / SHUTTERSTOCK

THE NETHERLANDS

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GRONINGEN Leeuwarden

encompassing Amsterdam, The Hague, and Rotterdam, and is the major tourist region in the country.

The popularity of Holland as a tourist destination has skyrocketed over the years making tourist-drenched Holland in need of some relief. Coming to the rescue, the Tourist Board has set in motion a campaign to change their tourism focus. Striking the headline “Holland” on their countrywide tourist literature, they have replaced it with the country name, Netherlands. (Don’t be deterred for a minute from visiting the main attractions of Holland due to crowds—the sites are not to be missed and the crowds are manageable). To the great benefit of visitors, the good news is that the other ten provinces are finally getting their due.

To start your visit to the Netherlands in Amsterdam is still a good choice. Amsterdam bustles with city excitement, a fast pace, and non-stop activities. Here you will find the iconic canal bridges brimming with flowers, the Van Gogh Museum, Anne Frank house, Stedelijk Museum, the Royal Palace, and tens of thousands of bicycles. (Careful not to wander into the bike lane to get that perfect shot; bikes have the right-of-way!)

Starting the day from your hotel, enjoy the hotel breakfast or stop at the nearest café for a cup of coffee and a delicious appelflap pastry, then take any one of the canal cruises to get a feel for the layout of this water-centric city. Keep in mind, it can be very relaxing, so I’d recommend getting a good night’s sleep before embarking. Being horribly jet-lagged on our first trip, and arriving mid-day, we hopped aboard the nearest canal cruise boat and proceeded to fall asleep halfway through the tour—I don’t think we were the first, as the tour guides were incredibly gracious about it and we had a good laugh.

The main attraction in North Holland is, of course, Amsterdam, while South Holland contains The Hague, Rotterdam, and the windmills of Kinderdijk.

The Hague, known internationally as host to the International Criminal Court and International Court of Justice, is also the royal and administrative capital of the Netherlands.

It is filled with beautiful buildings, museums, and chic hotels. The Peace Palace now has a visitor center and guided tours of the grounds, but, for security reasons, inside guided tours are rare and must be booked two weeks in advance, online only.

The colorful Market Hall in Rotterdam (left) is part of an ultra-modern structure with apartments and offices built into the outer shell. The favorite son of Delft, artist Johannes Vermeer, became world famous with only 37 known paintings, including The Milkmaid, ca. 1660 (above).

The nineteen windmills and Museum of Kinderdijk (below) in South Holland give visitors a visual treat and a hands-on experience.

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NORTH SEA

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three polders (lands reclaimed from flood plains) occupy approximately twenty square miles of land in the province. The Profytodsd Tulip Festival in the Noordoostpolder runs for three weeks with lots of family activities and tours of the tulip farms.

Overijssel, known for nature preserves and scenic farmland, is also home to the town dubbed the “Venice of the north,” where thatched-roof houses and beautiful gardens in the little town of Giethoorn perch along the banks of the canals. Rent a boat, or take a tour, to glide past this picturesque community.

In the flower season (from March to May) vast swaths of the country are taken over by a riot of color in the form of hyacinths, daffodils, dahlias, and, of course, tulips. The seven million blooms at Keukenhof, south of Amsterdam, make it the world’s largest flower exhibit, and the center of much of the tulip activity. It is open only eight weeks a year to visitors, so it is best to book a tour for this as the crowds, both local and foreign, are huge, especially during the parade dates. But don’t fret, there are maps published annually that highlight many locations in Nord Holland and Flevoland that will be filled with flower power, as well as bike routes that will lead to great picnic spots amongst the flowers as permitted by select farms. Also, you can attend one of 30 flower parades (bloemencorsos); parade dates run throughout the flower season

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The cheese market participants in Alkmaar (above) put on quite a show for visitors, but it is still a serious trading business since 1593.The Rietveld Schröder House museum (right) in Utrecht is open to visitors.The lively canalside cellar businesses (below) are a popular draw in the summer months in Utrecht.

public and UNESCO added the property to the World Heritage list in 2000.

Proceeding east from Utrecht, you’ll be heading into castle-lovers’ territory.

Gelderland province has over three dozen castles, manor houses, and palaces, including the Het Loo Palace in Apeldoorn, built in 1685 for Stadholder William III, later King William of England. The estate, with its extensive gardens, has been open to the public since 1984, and tours of the palace and grounds are available year round.

The provinces in the east, north, and south may not be as well known as Holland to most foreign visitors, but the provinces have catered to domestic and German tourists for many decades and the hotel infrastructure is well established. The rail and bus lines are frequent, affordable, and service the entire region and we were able to visit many sites without a car.

Taking public transportation into Gelderland province, you can reach Otterloo and enter the Hoge Veluwe National Park and Kröller-Müller Museum. The museum is uniquely situated in the middle of a small forest surrounded by heathlands and dunes. The museum houses the second largest collection of Van Gogh’s art in the world, as well as works by Mondrian, Monet, Seurat, Picasso, and other modern masters. The extremely large, 75-acre sculpture garden displays works by many artists including Oldenburg, Dubuffet, and Rodin. There are 1,700 freeto-rent White Bicycles to tour the entire park. Once the estate of Helene Müller and Anton Kröller, the museum opened in 1938, while the St. Hubertus Hunting Lodge on the estate opened only a few years ago and requires a reservation to enter.

Nijmegen, in Gelderland province, is one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands, dating back to Roman times. It is the center of the Four Days March event which attracts walkers from all over the world. The millionth participant walked the March in 1998. Even if you don’t march, there is a large, colorful festival with music, food, and entertainment surrounding the event. Thirty minutes outside of Nijmegen are the Gardens of Appeltern, with over 200 model gardens to inspire gardeners.

Just north of Gelderland lie the provinces of Flevoland and Overijssel. The newest province, Flevoland, just over 50 years old, is home to the largest tulip bulb growing region in the country. Farms located on

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tainment venues. In the warmer months, the ubiquitous canals of Utrecht offer a special bonus—wharf cellars, built in the Middle Ages right at the canal edges, open as colorful café’s, pubs, shops, and art galleries.

There are walking and boat tours of these unique structures along various canals.

Utrecht is also home to the Rietveld Schröder House built in 1924. In contrast to traditional building, it is considered one of the icons of the De Stijl design movement of the 1920s. Adjoining a traditional brick row house, the ultra-modern design makes a striking end cap. Though the view of open land, an important part of the layout, is now gone, the site still attracts fans of modern architecture.

Commissioned by Mrs. Truus SchröderSchräder, who wanted openness with few walls, Gerrit Reitveld’s design explored what we might know today as an “open concept” floor plan. The widow raised her three children in the house, and lived there for over 50 years.

The house is now a museum open to the

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Within and around the Holland provinces travelers, and cheese lovers especially, won’t want to miss visiting at least one of the famous cheese markets. Alkmaar and Edam are north of Amsterdam, Gouda is in the south near Rotterdam, and Woerden is east in Utrecht province.

These cheese markets are as tasty as they are festive.

Alkmaar puts on the full touristy, colorful, engaging show, while Woerden’s market is still a farmer’s market where local farmers bring their cheese to sell to commercial buyers. Definitely plan your visit on a market day during the cheese season (March through September). Seeing the unique activities and traditions of these markets, along with the marketplaces and weighing halls that support the industry, are quite memorable.

A good choice for your first foray outside of Holland would be the city of Utrecht, the fourth largest city in the Netherlands, located in the Utrecht province. Bordering the belt line between North and South Holland, Utrecht province exudes the signature Holland vibe found in Amsterdam, but delivered on a scale that is more accessible and definitely less crowded. As picturesque as any city can be (can’t say that enough about the Netherlands), Utrecht’s canals, architectural history, and ambiance will make you smile and keep your camera busy. Utrecht is quite lively thanks to the youthful university crowd, and there are no shortages of cafés and enter-

The De Haar Castle (top), in Utrecht province, embodies the image of a fairy tale castle and is one of the most photographed castles in the Netherlands. Van Gogh’s painting, Café Terrace at Night (1888), (above), is in the collection of the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Hogue Veluwe National Park.

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The Watergate (below left) in the northern town of Sneek is one of the few original watergates left in the country. The dolmens (burial sites) are found in the Drenthe province. They date back 3500 years and the stones (below) weigh thousands of pounds each.

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The picturesque town of Giethoorn (top right) in the province of Overijssel draws a million visitors each year. The city of Groningen is well known for its modern innovations, and the university building (above) showcases modern techniques in architecture.

influences are evident in the local culture. The remnants of the fortified city walls from the 1200s, contemporary restaurants and markets, and the caves/tunnels of Saint Pietersberg (begun in the thirteenth century), are part of the attractions. The Maastricht Treaty, which formed the European Union and the euro (1999), was signed here in 1992. A worthwhile stop is the Boekhandel Dominicanen bookstore, which is housed in a thirteenth-century church. The building, which went through many phases since Napoleon’s invasion in the 1700s, was transformed again in 2005. The award-winning design was created for the bookstore within the twelfth-century Gothic-style church utilizing as much of the original structure as possible.

The vaulted ceiling, soaring columns, and altar area are integrated into the new design, creating a stunning usable space.

In the town of Elsloo in northern Limburg province, remnants of an ancient village dating as far back as 5,000 BC was uncovered. Inhabitants, referred to as the Linear Pottery Culture, were one of the early European communities to employ farming of crops and herding of animals.

They occupied territory in the southern Netherlands down through Germany and the Czech Republic and lived over a period of 1,000 years from 5500-4500 BC. The Elsloo archeological site provided valuable information regarding the abilities and social life of these people. The pottery found includes bowls with distinct linear graphics, cups, and burial sites. There is a quaint museum located in two refurbished historical buildings, Streekmuseum Elsloo, that has artifacts and diagrams of the ancient village on display.

In the north of the Netherlands, just two and a half hours from Amsterdam, the

architecture in Groningen, including various campus buildings and the Groninger Museum, yet there remain well-preserved historic buildings worth visiting. The famous St. Martin’s Tower with 62 bells, next to the main market square, and the ornate Goudkantoor (gold office) remained in tact after the war, with the latter now housing a restaurant. The colorful, unique Groninger Museum, a work of art on its own, showcases contemporary thoughtprovoking art, applied arts and fashion, a history of Groningen, and a collection of the Hague School of art, among others.

Friesland province is the only province with an official language independent from Dutch, Frisian. The region has several charming cities, 24 interconnected lakes, and connections to the outer Walden Sea Islands via the town of Harlingen in the north. Picturesque as always in the Netherlands, the little town of Ijlst, with its water-side gardens, is ready for its close-up and rivals the beauty of Giethoorn, without the crowds. The capital, Leeuwarden, has a well-preserved medieval city center with over 600 sites listed as national monuments, so there is plenty to see.

The Netherlands has a fantastic infrastructure that makes it easy to see the entire country. Just imagine, trains every 30 minutes, up to 80 trains per day, between Rotterdam and Breda alone! The Netherlands, beyond Holland, is so picturesque and so easy to explore, that an extended visit is the way to go.

T R AV E L E R S

English is widely spoken throughout the Netherlands and there will always be someone nearby to translate if need be. It is estimated that 90% of the population can converse in English.

Visit the main tourism website for the Netherlands at www.netherlands-tourism.com and www.holland.com. Most of the twelve provinces have their own websites as follows:

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with dates as late as September, including the one in Zundert, in the North Brabant province, and Lichtenvoorde in Gelderland province. Zundert’s is one of the oldest and largest of the parades and is identified on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

The municipality is also the birthplace of Vincent Van Gogh, and close to the city of Breda. The long history of Breda includes the twelfth-century fortified Breda Castle, the ornate Brabantine Gothic-style Grote Kerk and tower, the fanciful fifteenth-century Bouvigne Castle, and the Begijnhof (courtyard), with 29 sisterhood (beguine) houses still standing from the 1800s—all just a half-hour southeast of Rotterdam.

Bracketing the province of North Brabant are Zeeland province to the west and Limburg to the east. Zeeland is prime beach country, with quaint fishing villages, fantastic seafood restaurants, and colorful kitesurfers to watch.

The capital city of Middleburg, largely destroyed in WWII, has been painstakingly rebuilt brick-by-brick and retains its historic look. Street names, such as Bierkaai (Beer Street), or Houtkaai (Wood Street) indicates which streets traded which products that sailed in and out of the busy harbor in the sixteenth-seventeenth centuries. The abbey complex in the city, c. 1100, with two churches, a tower, museum, and gardens, is a main attraction in the town center.

Limburg province, in the southeast, is known for its culinary arts, historic sites, and Medieval tunnels. Maastricht, capital city of Limburg, has hundreds of national heritage buildings, and distinct Belgian and German

provinces of Groningen, Drenthe, and Friesland have their own unique historical and cultural sites—from the prehistoric dolmens of Drenthe, to the innovative and modern hub of Groningen, to the seafaring life of Friesland.

The province of Drenthe is known for national park lands and farming. Bike lanes are plentiful and set up to get you anywhere you want to go. Though sparsely populated now, the region has been inhabited for over 15,000 years. Drenthe is well known for its 53 dolmen sites and burial mounds in the northern part of the province. The dolmens (hunebedden) are burial sites dating back to 3500 BC. Boulders, weighing thousands of pounds, are balanced atop support stones to mark the burial sites.You can obtain a map with all the sites numbered for easy touring from the Hunebed Center museum and discovery park in Borger.

There are three popular national parks in Drenthe: Dwingelderveld (heathland), DrentsFriese Wold (forests and dunes), and Drentsche Aa (a valley stream area with traditional old villages and winding walking paths).

Groningen, a major northern city known for innovation, gained city status in 1245.

University students make up 25% of the city’s population today, so it has, without a doubt, a lively city center. The University of Groningen was founded in 1614, and continues as a world-renowned university today that is grounded in the sciences. There are many stunning examples of modern

Utrecht: www.discover-utrecht.com Arnhem, Gelderland: https://en.arnhem.com Veluwe Park region: www.visitveluwe.com Geithoorn Village, Overijssel: en.visitnijimegan.com Flevoland: www.visitflevoland.nl/en Zeeland: www.zeeland.com/en

North Brabant: www.visitbrabant.com/en Limburg: www.limburg.com/en South Limburg: www.visitzuidlimburg.com Groningen: www.visitgroningen.nl/en Drenthe: www.visitdrenthe.com Friesland: www.friesland.nl/en

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DADEROT/ WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

he question: What town name appears most often on a map of

SPRINGFIELDS! their own zip code. Then there are the Springfields

the answer. My travels have taken me through quite a few—seemingly in

that are just a crossroads that someone calls Springfield

every state. Alas, the most used name is not Springfield. It turns out that

(informing their county, of course), and finally there

there are indeed many Springfields, enough to garner a respectably high

are the historical places, such as the 1849 California

place on the list, but the winner—the most widely assigned town name

Springfield that once had a gold rush population of

in the U.S. by several accounts—is Washington. In fact, it seems there are

2,000 but is now just a “T” in the road with a historical

nearly twice as many towns named Washington as Springfield. Oh, well.

marker and zero population. (Google will show you the way there if you want to go.) Qualification for the

the U.S., and Riverside, in second place by some accounts, has an obvious

list really comes down to the fact that a Springfield must

reason to be there, what is it about Springfield, in third place, that makes

simply be on a map. Even the U.S. Geological Survey acknowledges

it so widely used? Is it that your typical pioneer appreciated a convenient

the difficulty of identifying and categorizing all the small towns and

source of water—say, a spring bubbling up in a grassy open space suit-

named places, including

able for planting? “Let us call it Springfield,” they would say. Or is it that

land. It is an imprecise

the name Springfield—the one in Essex, England, to be precise—traveled

According to

to our shores with immigrants who flung the name nostalgically and

in 35 states. We

liberally across this new land? Or was it that the prosperous Springfield,

would be a limit of

Massachusetts, the very first of many in the U.S., was the inspiration for

is, in fact, the case—

those that followed, as was the case similarly wherein the Tipton

the Springfields, that dot our science. most accounts, there are Springfields would reasonably expect that there one Springfield per state, and that except for Wisconsin. That state, apparently abandoning tradition,

Brothers from Springfield, Missouri moved to Colorado and planted

and a modicum of practicality,

their own Springfield there. In one odd instance the name was chosen

has five Springfields and

as simply a better alternative to a previously chosen name, to wit, the JOSHUA RAINEY PHOTOGRAPHY / SHUTTERSTOCK

Richardson

rural, unincorporated, but often have a post office or

the entire United States? It seems like a sure bet. “Springfield” has to be

If George Washington deservedly has so many eponymous towns in

By M. Maxwell

METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART/WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

HONOR / WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

ALL THOSE

one Springfield

replacement of Protectworth, New Hampshire, with, yes, Springfield.

Corners. Go figure.

Before we focus our attention on a selection of particular

Opposite from top: The Eureka School in Springfield,Vermont, served students for over a century starting in 1790.The Springfield Armory in Massachusetts was built at the direction of George Washington. A Frank Lloyd Wright house graces Springfield, Illinois. A drift boat plies the waters of the Mckenzie River near Springfield, Oregon.

An industrious Springfield, Massachusetts is depicted (above) in a nineteenth-century Thomas Chambers painting. A studious Abraham Lincoln is depicted in bronze at Lincoln, Oregon.

Lincoln declined the Oregon governorship and remained in Springfield, Illinois.

The oldest

Springfields, let us consider the nature of the towns on the list. First off,

Springfield in

some of the Springfields are cities, some are towns, some are no more

the U.S. is in

than “census designated places” or CDPs, meaning that they are usually

Massachusetts.

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Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Paramount Theatre in Springfield, Massachusetts, (below) and adjoining hotel are undergoing a $41M restoration.

The theater, which includes nightclub-style dining on the lower level, is scheduled to open in the near future. The Lorax (bottom left) occupies a place at the Springfield, Massachusetts, Dr. Seuss National Memorial Sculpture Garden. Forest Park (below) is a popular park in the city.

ments. Developing through the decades as an industrial city and home to Kelly-Springfield Tires, International Harvester, now Navistar, and ten now defunct auto manufacturers including Westcott Motor Car Company, it notably was where the patent for the Wright brothers’ airplane was written in 1904. 4H was founded here in 1902, and Ohio’s only Frank Lloyd Wright prairie-style

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he majority of the Springfields are east of the Mississippi with one of the easternmost located on the banks of the Black River in Vermont, very near the New Hampshire border. Founded by way of a 1761 land grant, the potential of the powerful Black River Falls quickly gave birth to this mill town, surrounded as it was by rich agricultural land.

Precision machining was the millwork of choice and the town’s booming industry carried on strongly through the WWII era.

Worth seeing are the collections and exhibits in the American Precision Museum. And Lovejoy Precision Cutting Tools still operates from a facility on the bank of the river. The River Valley Technical Center extends the tradition educationally to newer generations.

Additionally, this Vermont town’s historical educational lineage features in the Eureka Schoolhouse, a restored building dating to 1790 that served students through 1900. Just 25 miles to the northeast sits the smaller, former Protectworth, New Hampshire, known since its 1794 name change as, what else, Springfield, New Hampshire.

One hundred miles due south, in Massachusetts, lies the first of the U.S. Springfields. Founded in 1636, on a bluff overlooking the confluence of four rivers, the city’s history is rich with important milestones in its almost 400 year timeline.

After a century and a half as an agricultural area and regional trade center it was in 1777, at the direction of George Washington, that the Springfield Armory was established for the production of muskets. Later, the armory’s Springfield rifle was carried by many of the

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Springfield, Massachusetts, resident James Naismith invented, in 1891, an indoor sport to keep athletes fit during the winter months.

His city is now home to the Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame.

T

Originally an Indian trading post on the banks of the Connecticut River, Agwam was purchased in 1636 by William Pynchon and subsequently renamed, allegedly, for the Springfield on the Roman Road in Essex, England. The youngest Springfield, at least according to the information made available by each of the Springfields, is the one in Florida, which nonetheless will celebrate its 100th birthday in 2035.

Identifying the largest Springfield in the U.S. is a little tricky. Some of the Springfields are part of a larger metropolitan complex, or metroplex, such as Eugene-Springfield in Oregon, and Hartford-Springfield in New England. The Oregon metroplex claims a population of 370,000, while the ConnecticutMassachusetts duo share a large airport that serves the 1.9 million residents. Limited to just the Springfield portion proper, the Oregon (63,000) and New England (156,000) Springfields accede first place, populationwise, to Springfield, Missouri, at 169,200. As medium-sized cities and smaller towns, what the Springfields may lack in sheer size they make up for in numbers and dispersion!

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Three miles outside of town, an icy North Springfield Reservoir reflects the glow of Vermont’s Mt. Ascutney in the distance.

history, and the life and work of Springfield’s own Theodore Geisel, yes, Dr. Seuss.

Further south, all the way to South Carolina, travelers will come across the state’s small Springfield, centrally located about 100 miles northwest of Charleston. The town’s stately former high school, c. 1929, has been added to the National Register of Historic places and now houses the visitor center, two museums, and a gallery. But this town’s claim to fame is a notable local event—the South Carolina Governor’s Frog Jump, patterned after the event in Calaveras County, California, made famous by Mark Twain.

Taking place around Easter each year (since 1969), the event is the centerpiece of a large festival, one of several local events that include, in November, the lovable Springfield Defends Fruitcake gathering.

Buy a fruitcake, enter the fruitcake bake contest, or just have lunch.

Named for the prominent and historic city of Springfield, Massachusetts, Ohio’s namesake city was founded in 1801 by Kentuckian James Demint in a southwest Ohio area that was previously the site of Shawnee settle-

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Union troops in the Civil War and still later the M1 Garand rifle, named for its Canadian designer John Garand, a Springfield Armory employee, was the standard issue firearm for American soldiers in WWII and the Korean War. The Armory was closed in 1968 and the preserved buildings are now the Springfield Armory National Historic Site. The Springfield Armory name lives on in the products of the former L.H. Gun company of Devine, Texas, renamed Springfield Armory, Inc., which make replica versions of the classic M1 rifle.

Notable among the many achievements that count Springfield, Mass, as home are America’s first dictionary, the 1805 MerriamWebster, the first American gas automobile, by the Duryea Brothers in 1893, and the first successful American motorcycle, the Hendee Manufacturing “Indian,” made in 1901.

The rich alluvial soil of the area makes Springfield a continuing agricultural center.

In fact, the multi, multi-award winning bluesbased musical entertainer Taj Mahal, although born (1942) in Harlem, was raised in Springfield, worked as a farm manager and studied agriculture and animal husbandry before embarking on his musical journey.

The area’s farming tradition is reflected in the popular Farmers’ Market at Forest Park, that carries on even through the winter.

The market’s website (see Information For Travelers at the end) lists market hours and a collection of recipes worth checking out.

Along with the market, the city caters to its residents and visitors with 304 restaurants, bars, and coffee shops. An assortment of museums operated under the auspices of the Springfield Museums showcases art, science,

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as the reason, and missing an opportunity to keep up with the times. Bypassed by the rail line, Springfield, Louisiana, slipped into a future as a quiet town on the Natalbany River. As a former seat of the parish government, the c. 1835 Old Livingston Parish Courthouse, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, keeps a bit of the town’s history alive.

With so many Springfields in the country, one of them would have to be a state capital, right? Of course—it’s Springfield, Illinois.

Famously home to lawyer turned president turned immortal spirit of America, Abraham Lincoln, the nascent city was only thirteen years old when Lincoln made his way via Kentucky and Indiana to Illinois, arriving in 1831, as a visitor—taking up residence there six years later in 1837. His law career was based there and it was through his efforts (and those of some associates) that Springfield was made state capital in 1839, wresting that title from former capital Vandalia. As a young man Lincoln worked on the Mississippi River

and political gravitas.

Home to the grand Illinois State Fair at the city’s permanent fairgrounds, the Illinois state capital is also a city of many and varied museums. Many showcase aspects of Lincoln’s life and activities—the Presidential Library and Museum, Lincoln’s home of 17 years (tours are free), and, about 15 miles northwest of town, the cabin at Lincoln’s New Salem State Park. Additionally, several museums feature Springfield’s role in the Civil War. On the lighter side there is a Route 66 “Motorheads” Museum, a botanical garden, several art museums, and a kids’ museum of health and science—the Kidzeum.

A bit more than 300 miles to the southwest of the Illinois state capital lies the largest Springfield of all, in the state of Missouri. On a plateau originally settled by the Osage nation, it was the brothers Campbell arriving from Tennessee in 1829 who founded presentday Springfield near a natural well that flowed into a creek. Hmmm. Being located on one of the three plateaus comprising the Ozark Mountains, the terrain around the city is hilly and wooded, making the Missouri city an attractive tourist destination. Country music is big in Springfield (as it is in nearby Branson), but the home store of Bass Pro Shops is the main draw, being, in fact, Missouri’s biggest tourist attraction. You can book a stay at the Bass Pro Angler’s Lodge if you’ve traveled from afar. Springfield’s Civil War history is

Oregon, the last stop on our tour.

Often overshadowed by Eugene, its larger sister city, Springfield, Oregon, nonetheless benefits from its proximity.

The Eugene-Springfield metroplex provides residents and visitors alike a wide array of cultural and entertainment opportunities. Oregon’s Springfield is just one hour from the Pacific coast to the west and an hour from skiing in the Cascade Mountains to the east. The Lower Willamette Valley is an outdoor recreation mecca. With the University of Oregon right next door, there are plenty of sports to watch— free or for a reasonable price. Attend a theater, dine, or check out one of the many bike shops in this bike-happy place, then go for a spin on the Ruth Bascom Riverbank bike path.

Springfield, Oregon, is a fine place to end our tour of some of the forty or so Springfields that dot our states—unless you want to travel south to California’s gold country and read the plaque on the monument where the colorful boomtown Springfield once stood.You will have the place all to yourself.

NOEHILL

presented at Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield, where visitors can drive a 5-mile historical loop and view exhibits, a film, and maps of the battle.

And now for something completely different—a Springfield that is not a Springfield.

Well, not an actual Springfield. I’m told there is a TV show called The Simpsons—and that it is the longest running animated sitcom ever, and that it has received acclaim as, among other things, “20th century’s best TV series,” (Time). Some clever folks in Henderson, Nevada, along with Fox and Pepsi, had the idea to build their own promotional, full size “724 Evergreen Terrace, Springfield” to attract fans of the show. Originally painted in the show’s glowing paint scheme, this actual house in a subdivision is now desert tan.

And occupied, presumably, by actual people.

So, if you are in Nevada and need to visit a Springfield, you can at least drive past the Simpson manse on the real Red Bark Lane.

The Simpsons’ home town can also be visited within Universal Studios theme parks in Hollywood and Orlando.

Matt Groening, the creator of The Simpsons, is from Portland, Oregon. Growing up, as he revealed to Smithsonian magazine in 2012, he watched Father Knows Best, based in “Springfield.” Mr. Groening assumed, as a kid, that it was Springfield, Oregon, just 100 miles down the road from his home town. It wasn’t.

But Mr. Groening realized later that the anonymity of that show’s “Springfield” allowed folks across the nation to assume it was their nearby one. For this reason he chose the name for the Simpsons’ fictional town, admitting that it was, at its roots, Springfield,

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A bit of rural Ohio (top) is preserved amid this Springfield’s development as an industrial city.

The historic section of Springfield, Illinois (above), is where Lincoln’s house is located. Prior to locating in Springfield, Lincoln lived at nearby New Salem (above right), now the Lincoln’s New Salem State Historic Site.

and was exposed to the practice of slavery in the deep South, informing the politics for which he is known. Illinois, with Springfield as its capital, was a major force in the Civil War. Ulysses S. Grant trained Union soldiers at Springfield giving the city both military

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residence, the Westcott House, c. 1908, has undergone restoration and is now open to the public.

Springfield, Louisiana, was, in the nineteenth century, a prominent point in eastern Louisiana’s transportation network.

Connected by water to New Orleans, boats would transfer goods at the town, primarily lumber from the Livingston Parish, for delivery by boat to New Orleans. When the railroad came to the area, Springfield opted to continue with marine transport, citing a fear of lawlessness associated with the railroads

FOR

Springfield, Missouri’s Bass Pro Shop facility is a destination unto itself. Among the attractions is the bronze moose (below left) greeting visitors to the Wonders of Wildlife National Museum and Aquarium. A monument (above) at Springfield Road and Horseshoe Bend Road marks the site of the former gold rush boomtown of Springfield, California.

T R AV E L E R S

Springfield, Vermont. The website, https://springfieldvt.gov/, lists many things to see and do under the “Visitors” tab. The 1790 Eureka Schoolhouse is at 470 Charlestown Road in Springfield’s Goulds Mill village.

Springfield, Massachussets. The city website, https://www.springfield.ma/, is extensive, listing even the inventions that were created there. The Springfield Armory has its own website at www.nps.gov/spar/index.htm. The Farmers Market at Forest Park website lists hours and a selection of recipes at www.farmersmarketatforestpark.com. The city’s museums, including the Amazing World of Dr. Seuss Museum, are grouped together at https://springfieldmuseums.org/about/.

Springfield, South Carolina. The town’s website, www.springfieldsc.com, lists events such as the frog jump and fruitcake celebration.

Springfield, Ohio. The city’s lively website, www.visitgreaterspringfield.com, is filled with engaging things to see and do.

Springfield, Illinois. The comprehensive website, www.visitspringfieldillinois.com, lists a variety of things to do and places to stay, etc. Under the “Plan” tab you will find a link for a downloadable visitor guide. Details for a side trip to Lincoln’s New Salem State Park can be found at www.nps.gov/liho/learn/historyculture/newsalem.htm or www.lincolnsnewsalem.com. The Illinois State Fair website, https://www2.illinois.gov/statefair/info/Pages/Default.aspx, lists everything you want and need to know about the big fair in August.

Springfield, Missouri. Everything from timely events to places to stay, and even information on the big Bass Pro Shop, can be found on the city’s website, www.springfieldmo.org. Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield, www.nps.gov/wicr/index.htm, makes an engaging side trip from Springfield.

Springfield, Oregon. At press time the city’s website, https://springfieldor.gov/visitors/, was not functioning properly, but plenty of information is available from the chamber of commerce site at: https://www.springfield-chamber.org/.

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Smart Phone Photography Tiny precision lenses, fast and comprehensive computer processing, and massive digital storage capabilities have set the table for some pretty advanced smart phone photography, eliminating for many of us the need for a full-size camera kit.

Many casual smart phone photographers will reach the point at which they want to advance beyond the quick pointand-shoot. Even if they have a basic knowledge of photographic technique vis-à-vis an SLR camera, it takes some adaptation to apply that knowledge to smart phone photography. The three books presented here take the user through the basics and on to more advanced levels of smart phone photo techniques, each with a different emphasis. Each book applies universally to both iPhone and Android smart phones.

Smartphone Photography in Easy Steps, by Nick Vandome, 2020, In Easy Steps, Ltd., Warwickshire, UK, $15.99 ISBN 978-1-84078-901-0.

Starting with the basics, this book works its way up to more finessed techniques in a heavily illustrated, easily accessed workbook-like format, with icons and tips. Jump around to the self-contained subjects as needed, or start from the beginning and work your way through.

Smart Phone Smart Photography,

by Jo Bradford, 2018, CICO Books, London and NY, $21.99, ISBN 978-1-78249-562-8.

Based in Dartmoor National Park, UK, Bradford emphasizes using the smartphone’s camera functions to bring artistry to the finished photos. Creativity is the strong point in this elegantly produced softcover book liberally illustrated with color images.

32 ODYSSEY

Winter 2022

Smartphone Photography: Shooting Like A Pro, Wale Adekile, 2020, Wale Adekile, Las Vegas, $25.50 ISBN 979-866918-928-0.

Adekile delivers his photographic knowledge in a very conversational way.

He dispenses with the basics of shooting smartphone pictures and jumps right to some of the more advanced concepts.

The first chapter is about lighting, not about which button to push on your phone app. Much of the content could apply to pro photography and its requisite gear, but he ties the concepts to smartphone photography. The somewhat more advanced amateur photographer will understand and appreciate this book.

Desktop Model Cars Libraries, per se, are generally filled with books. But if your library is the room in your house also known as the study, or the home office, you’ll probably have books, yes, and a few other things of interest— photographs, certificates, mementos, and maybe a desktop sculpture or two. And if your interests include things automotive, the sculptures just might be models of famous or favorite vehicles.

There is a sizable industry around the creation and distribution of automotive replica models. If you would enjoy displaying some automotive art on your desk or shelf, there are quite a few options—from inexpensive metal or plastic cars (think Hot Wheels) in the under $5 category, to fabulously expensive works of art priced in the thousands.

For the semi-serious collector or for the car-lover desiring a nice show piece, there is a middle ground in the $100-$600 range. Yes, hobbies have become more expensive of late! Although the offerings vary widely, a nice place to start, and maybe to end, is the category we’ll call “1:18-scale die-cast model cars.” The models feature metal die-cast parts plus some plastic, rubber, and fabric elements.The level of detail is usually quite impressive, and the more you spend, the more detail you get.

LIBRARY

Entering “1:18 scale die-cast cars,” into your computer’s search engine delivers to you quite a few hits. You will discover there are a few prominent die-cast car makers and a few prominent retail sellers.

The list of established makers includes CMC, Exoto, AutoArt, Kyosho, Acme Trading Company, and Maisto. You will find very high-end sports car models in the Amalgam Collection. These makers sell in hobby shops, at automotive dealerships, and often direct online. Companies that offer a selection of models online from a variety of manufacturers include: Mint Models (NY), Awsome Diecast (FL), Legacy Diecast (NY), Diecast Models Wholesale (CA), Diecast Direct (KY), Fairfield Collectibles (GA), Larry’s Diecast Cars (IL), Small Ants (China), and a few others. Warning: you might find that just one model is not enough! If your interest becomes serious, consider joining an association such as Diecast Zone Model Car Club, https://diecast.org, or Diecast Society, https://diecastsociety .com/about-us/.

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Newfound Gap is a popular view point along the Great Smoky Mountians Scenic Drive—one of the featured drives in our section that appears on pages 14 and 15 of this issue.

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