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NOVEMBER 30 2013 £4.75

Puzzle solver

How Jigsaw’s new boss Peter Ruis plans to make it unique again


Putting on the glitz at fashion’s big night / P8


Retailers unveil their spring 14 ranges / P26


topics from the global property show / P18

1 9 - 2 1 J A N U A R Y 2 014 S C O O P - IN T E R N AT I O N A L . C O M LONDON Venues: Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Road, SW3 4RY Phillips, Howick Place, SW1P 1BB Image: Maiko Takdea From the project “Atmospheric Reentry” 2013

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Retailers poised for peak online sales this weekend

Sales of Christmas jumpers have rocketed as footfall and multichannel purchases ramp up By Catherine Neilan & Jill Geoghegan

Retailers are hoping for bumper multichannel trading this weekend, as consumers hit the shops with their last pay packet before Christmas. Experts told Drapers they expected footfall to spike this weekend following the last major payday weekend, with Monday (December 2) the high point for online sales. Retail data company Springboard predicts the weekend will see week-on-week footfall rise 10%, while year-on-year footfall is expected to rise 4%, also buoyed by improved consumer sentiment. Cyber Monday, the biggest day for online sales, which this year falls on December 2, is also expected to deliver an ongoing boost to the high street via click-and-collect. Springboard’s retail director Diane Werhle said: “What has traditionally detracted from the high street will now help it – people have become more savvy about ordering online, and many are choosing click-and-collect to avoid problems with deliveries.” House of Fraser, for example, is

Festive fever: shoppers on Oxford Street and a George at Asda Christmas jumper

expecting its Oxford Street store to handle two click-and-collect orders per minute this weekend. So far the runaway success item has been the festive jumper, as identified by Drapers last month as this year’s big trend. New Look head of multichannel product and trend Sally Heath said: “Knitwear is 100% up on last year driven by Christmas jumpers and we have more searches for them than we did for onesies at this time

last year, so they are officially this year’s top pick.” John Lewis said Christmas jumper sales were 900% up on last year, and selling at double the rate of onesies. Sales of novelty jumpers at George at Asda have soared 200% on last year, with the supermarket selling £3m worth of them in the week to November 22, when ‘Christmas jumper’ was the most searched for term on George buying director for menswear and kidswear

Jonathan Tillery said: “Christmas jumpers are the onesie of 2013”, noting that knits had become “even more innovative”, including one where a customer can insert a smartphone to play a ‘moving fireplace’ app through a hole in the jumper. Tillery said the team had ordered in millions of Christmas jumpers to meet the “frenzy”. More generally, other retailers and brands have seen sales pick up since the start of the cold weather. David Short, country managing director for Macintosh Retail Group, which owns Brantano and Jones Bootmaker, said the footwear retailers were seeing “fantastic numbers”, with Brantano set to go on Sale six days later than last year. Menswear brand Duck and Cover’s head of sales Gareth Jones told Drapers repeat orders were 15% up on last year, with retailers reporting improved sales, adding that further wintry weather “could be a real game changer for fashion this season.” However, given that Christmas Day falls in midweek, experts are still anticipating a late peak to trading overall.

Boohoo float value likely to trump physical rivals


By Victoria Gallagher’s decision to list on the stock market is expected to value the young fashion etailer higher than its bricks-and-mortar counterparts, with its continued expansion attractive to investors. The business this week revealed it plans to float from the first quarter of next year and has hired adviser Zeus Capital. Zeus has already conducted test marketing with “cornerstone investors”, which a spokesman said was “well received”. It is thought the etailer, which launched in 2006, is likely to list on

List price: etailer Boohoo is planning to float on the stock market next year

the Alternative Investment Market (Aim), following in the footsteps of womenswear chain Bonmarché, which made its Aim debut this month. House of Fraser and online business The Hut Group are among retailers also planning to float next year. Peel Hunt analyst John Stevenson said: “Online clothing is one of the most under-represented areas on the market at the moment and there is a lot of demand for it. It’s nice to get some new names in the frame.” Although he declined to estimate

the valuation of Boohoo, Stevenson said it would be “much more than your other clothing retailers”, thanks to its international expansion and general growth. In August the etailer announced it was recruiting 50 employees, taking its total headcount to 650. In the last year it launched into Australia, New Zealand, the US and Canada. According to its most recent accounts, Boohoo grew pre-tax profits by 79% to £248,790 for the year to February 29, 2012, with sales up 18% to £29m. NOVEMBER 30 2013 /




Barratts shuts 19 shops as rescue hopes fade By Suzanne Bearne & Jill Geoghegan

Shock departure: Bracewell moving on

Animal boss exits after two months

Animal chief executive Steve Bracewell has left the business after less than two months at the helm. Bracewell joined the boardsports brand on October 2 and the company declined to comment on the circumstances of his departure. His exit comes not long after that of his predecessor Rose Foster, who left in August after less than two years in the role. Bracewell joined Animal from Sports Direct-owned outdoor brand Gelert, where he was chief executive from February 2012. Before Gelert, he was a managing director at K-Swiss from 2001-12. Speaking to Drapers shortly after his appointment, Bracewell said he planned to expand Animal’s independent stockist base and slim down its product range. But one industry insider told Drapers the brand needed to “get its strategy straight” and focus on the product in order to turn things around. “At the moment Animal doesn’t have anyone steering it commercially or creatively. It needs to get the product handwriting right.” Animal has more than 550 accounts in the UK.

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Barratts has closed a quarter of its stores with the loss of up to 200 jobs, as the future of the troubled footwear retailer remains in jeopardy. The Leeds-based company, which fell into administration last month, closed 19 of its 75 stores. Stores affected include Hull, Manchester Arndale, Enfield, Norwich, Horsham, Maidstone, Gloucester, Uxbridge, Romford and Exeter. The closures have resulted in about 200 redundancies among its 1,000 staff so far. It is thought Barratts’ 23 concessions in department stores including BHS and Debenhams are still open. Industry experts told Drapers they do not believe Barratts, which is in administration for the third time in five years, will be saved. Barratts chief executive Michael Ziff ruled himself out of bidding for the business, but told Drapers he would be prepared to work with a new owner if required. David Whitehouse and Philip Duffy of Duff & Phelps were appointed as joint administrators on

Shuttered: 200 jobs expected to be lost

November 8, with Barratts blaming “difficult trading conditions” for its troubles. Footwear sources expect clothing retailers to pick up market share in the wake of Barratts’ closures. One said: “The biggest benefactors will be the clothing retailers that sell footwear. Barratts is a mid-market, mixed-brand retailer so its customers are usually looking for a bargain. New Look, Topshop and even Primark could do well from it.”

Investment to fund Carmel expansion Carmel Clothing, womenswear and teenwear supplier to high street retailers including Arcadia, Next and Primark, is boosting its production capacity and moving into the kidswear and occasionwear markets after receiving a £16m cash injection from investor Investec. The privately owned company, which employs more than 100 staff across its offices in London, China and Vietnam, plans to purchase the remainder of its London office in Kentish Town, increase its levels of production, and boost staff numbers across all its offices by 10% next year. As a result it is hoping to bolster turnover from £30m this year to £50m in the next three to five years. Carmel will begin to supply kidswear following a trial of the category last year. Finance director Esther Marlow told Drapers: “The funding means we can expand our range. Last year we trialled a kidswear range with one of our customers and it was successful but we didn’t offer it to all of them. Now we have the funding to push it so we’re looking to expand kidswear across all of our customers as well as expanding generally in the product we supply.”


Reiss has unveiled the first stores to receive its new concept, with branches in Bluewater (pictured) and Newcastle opening last week. The roll-out will continue across key existing stores, as well as new shops, throughout the year. Reiss’s 4,500 sq ft Meadowhall shopping centre store in Sheffield is due to reopen in February.

Womenswear ‘back on track’ at Matalan By Catherine Neilan

Matalan’s womenswear division is expected to have outperformed menswear and kidswear for the first time in years this season, after the department was overhauled by its buying director. Mitchell Hughes, who was promoted to the role 18 months ago, told Drapers he had bolstered the in-house design and buying team, shaken up its sourcing systems and improved the in-store experience. He said he was starting to see things “get back on track”, with autumn 13 womenswear performing the best it had for two to three years. Although womenswear makes up half of Matalan’s overall takings, menswear and kidswear have seen higher growth rates in that time, but Hughes said he was confident the momentum behind womenswear would continue into next spring. “This is the first season under my remit and we have really aimed to get womenswear back on track. We’ve brought in specialist teams in areas like footwear, and are using

Fast worker: Matalan can adapt to spring 14 trends quickly

our supply base for design as well as promoting internally. “We have reduced the number of options in womenswear by around 20%, to put the buy into statement lines.” Statement pieces include pencil skirts, Nordic and Scottishstyle knitwear and denim shirts. Pricing has also been lowered over the last 18 months, with clearer definition given to its good, better, best distinctions.

Matalan is also sourcing more from Near East countries such as Turkey, to improve flexibility. “We have about 30% of our spring 14 budget left, so we can adapt to trends more quickly than we have in the past,” said Hughes. “Womenswear is the toughest market in the UK, but this year we have bought it better and are offering more choice, and setting it out more clearly in store.”

Victoria’s Secret takes over Bally store By Suzanne Bearne

US lingerie giant Victoria’s Secret is planning to expand its four-storey London flagship next year, having acquired the premises of Swiss luxury brand Bally, its New Bond Street neighbour. The Victoria’s Secret store, which opened in August last year and sells the full range including Victoria’s Secret Pink and Victoria’s Secret Designer Collection, will add to its existing 40,386 sq ft floor space when it acquires Bally’s 6,700 sq ft premises. Victoria’s Secret declined to comment. The retailer has six stores in the UK in locations including Meadowhall in Sheffield, Westfield Stratford City and Trinity Leeds. In September it opened its first store in the Southeast, a 12,000 sq ft shop

Round the corner: shop will extend into neighbouring New Bond Street unit

at Bluewater in Kent. It also opened its first standalone UK airport store at Stansted in January. Property agent CBRE acts for Victoria’s Secret. Bally will remain on the famous street but is moving further down to 45-46 New Bond Street, a unit

previously occupied by men’s tailoring and accessories brand Avi Rossini. The three-level store, thought to be about 4,500 sq ft, will open next spring. Property agents Thor High Street Advisors and Cushman & Wakefield acted for Bally. One source told Drapers that Bally was moving to be among more upmarket brands. “The further south down the road you go, the more luxury you go,” he said. “The new premises have a better quality of adjacencies. It’s a more prominent position for them.” Bally did not return calls for comment. Victoria’s Secret, founded in 1977, recorded sales of $6.12bn (£3.76bn) with an operating income of $1bn (£613.6m) in 2012.

News in brief Bosses cash in at Asos Asos’s top management took home more than £2.6m in pay and pocketed a further £55m by selling off shares in the year to August 31, 2013. Kate Bostock was paid more than £414,000 for her seven-month tenure as executive director of product and trading, while chief executive Nick Robertson earned more than £803,000 for the year, according to documents filed at Companies House last week. Several of Asos’s top brass also sold off more than £55m of shares, with both Robertson and Lord Alli realising £16m apiece. Stitch axes spring 14 edition Streetwear show Stitch has been cancelled for spring 14. The 11th-hour deal to save the January edition, which was reported by Drapers last week, has fallen through due to time constraints. Founder Brian Duffy said “stepping back” from this season was the best option, but he was continuing to work towards creating a show for autumn. Debenhams promotes Swann Debenhams has promoted director of information systems Peter Swann to the new role of operations director. Swann, who joined 11 months ago from WHSmith, will oversee logistics and imports, on top of his IT role. Swann will join the executive committee led by chief executive Michael Sharp. Boyd-Bowman hearing date A second hearing to determine whether Charles Boyd-Bowman, former director of tailoring firm Rayner & Sturges, will stand for trial has been set for January 20. Boyd-Bowman faces allegations over what Drapers understands to be unpaid VAT of £270,000 relating to the period from July 1, 2008 to December 31, 2011. Merc lands in Bangkok Young fashion brand Merc has opened a concession in the Siam Paragon department store in Bangkok. The 645 sq ft space offers 80% of the menswear range, as well as footwear. Head of UK Andy Tompsett said the opening indicated the “strength of Merc worldwide”. NOVEMBER 30 2013 /




Croydon mall will

Going to church: Crypt on the Green is at St James in Clerkenwell

By Jill Geoghegan

Men’s fair Detail launches By Graeme Moran

brands and buyers have welcomed the launch of men’s accessories trade show Detail, which is scheduled to debut this January in London at the same time as menswear event Jacket required. Detail will take place on February 5-6 at the Crypt on the Green in Clerkenwell, not far from Jacket required’s new east London site on brick Lane. It will focus on men’s accessories and lifestyle products. Founded by Jared Horn, former co-owner of Cardiff independent Drooghi and founder of the one Percenter agency, Detail will host up to 30 exhibitors including Universal Works, veras and Drake’s London. Simon Spiteri, founder of menswear independent Anthem in Shoreditch, said: “Accessories and lifestyle products are becoming a core part of any business. It’s

especially encouraging to have a fair like this in London, as it’s sure to add an edge to any buying mix. “Any buyers in town for Jacket required will attend Detail.” Dan Chamier, owner of Chapman bags, which will exhibit at Detail, agreed the timing would mean “more people are around with a reason to visit”. He added: “There is no focused accessories show here, so this is a perfect opportunity for us.” However, Daniel Kallmen, buyer at Trunk Clothiers in marylebone, argued that Detail fell too late in the season, saying if it had been scheduled during London Collections: men “not only UK buyers are in town, but international buyers are around”. To find out more about Detail, visit This story was broken online. For more news, visit

Developers Westfield and Hammerson are looking to turn their joint £1bn scheme in Croydon into a fully integrated multichannel shopping centre, with a focus on digital technology and social media. The development, which received the thumbs up from the local council on monday, will “keep pace” with the evolving digital needs of the general public. John burton, director of development at Westfield, told Drapers: “We’re living in a digital world and that has had an incredible impact on how we operate, particularly regarding social media. “We are moving at an incredible pace. For our last two Westfield projects, operations such as click-and-collect were distant dots, so for Croydon we want to speak to retailers about how to develop apps, get their social media stamp across and communicate to their customers.” Although burton did not go into

‘For Croydon we want to speak to retailers about how to develop apps’ John Burton, director of development, Westfield

detail, there has been a spate of technological advances at other shopping centres. rival landlord Intu has launched a transactional app which offers tailored deals to consumers as they walk past participating retailers. burton added the retail mix had to be “exciting” enough to tempt shoppers away from rival shopping centres and into Croydon.

stellar sales drive further TK Maxx openings By Jill Geoghegan

TJX, owner of TK maxx, has upped its full-year profit guidance and revealed plans to further bolster its store portfolio. The US firm is raising its earnings per share outlook for the year ending February 1, 2014 by between $2.89 (£1.77) to $2.93 (£1.79), compared with $2.55 (£1.65) last year. The increase follows a better than expected third quarter, in which net sales rose 9% to $6.98bn (£4.31bn) for the three months to November 2. overall profit for the third quarter increased 8.9% to $623m (£385m). 4

Drapers / November 30 2013

More for less: TK Maxx’s parent plans to more than double stores in Europe

Adjusted net sales for TJX europe, which includes TK maxx and HomeSense stores, increased 14% for the period to $964m (£596m). For the first nine months of TJX europe’s financial year, sales rose 12% to $2.49bn (£1.54bn). During the third quarter TK maxx added 17 shops to its UK and republic of Ireland store portfolio, including a flagship in Covent Garden. TJX europe expects to open a further 32 stores in europe next year across both its fascias. The expansion is part of a long-term plan for the business,

which will see TJX europe growing its TK maxx and Homesense store count in the UK, Ireland, Germany and Poland to 875 shops, from its current 339 locations. TJX is aiming to increase its store portfolio in its current markets around the world, including the US and Canada, to 5,150 stores, from its present level of 3,119. Chief executive Carol meyrowitz said: “The fourth quarter is off to a good start. Longer term, we see tremendous potential and remain very confident in our ability to continue driving substantial growth.”

have tech focus

Plugged in: an artist’s impression of the development, which aims to keep pace with digital needs

“We have to get the brand mix right to stand out from other parts of London,” he said. “Local people who should be shopping here are not satisfied with the current offer. This borough used to be top of the tree in terms of retail but it has slipped well down – we need to provide a convincing offer to restore it to its former glory.” While retailers have yet to be

secured for the development, it will target businesses from across the board including british chains and US retailers. Carolyn Kenney, development director at Hammerson, said: “There isn’t a lot that we can’t deliver in such an extensive retail space. It’s now up to the leasing teams to optimise that space and get the mix right. everyone has an opportunity to thrive there, including smaller independent retailers.” She added: “Smaller retailers recognise the benefit of the scheme; it will bring people back to the area, which can only be good for business.” The Croydon Partnership will merge the town’s two main shopping centres, The Whitgift Centre and Centrale. The Whitgift is to be demolished and replaced with a 1.5 million sq ft mall in the same vein as Westfield’s Stratford and White City schemes. Work to transform The Whitgift will commence in 2015, with a view to opening in 2018. The scheme will provide 5,000 jobs and more than £30m towards local transport improvements and employment and training benefits. However, not everyone has welcomed the development. minerva, which owns the former Allders building, issued a statement saying the decision “shows a clear disregard for the interests and stakeholders of Croydon”.

Pure and UKTI team up to put new labels on show By suzanne Bearne

Pure London has partnered with government body UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) to offer a range of incentives to encourage up-and-coming british brands to exhibit at its autumn 14 edition. The womenswear exhibition is offering 16 ready-to-wear and eight footwear and accessories brands reduced rates to show at its next edition, which runs from February 9-11 at London olympia. Pure London, which declined to specify how much rates would be reduced by, said brands wishing to apply must be new to the show, and export must comprise less than 25% of total turnover. Through the tie-up, Pure London and UKTI will offer support to british brands on how to prepare their businesses to succeed abroad. UKTI will also fund high-profile international buyers to attend. Pure London portfolio director Julie Driscoll said: “We aim to

Special offer: brands that are new to Pure can apply for reduced rates

increase the number of overseas buyers and support our UK exhibitors in making the most of their contact with this audience.” Last February, international buyers accounted for 14% of the show’s attendees. Designers and brands wishing to apply for a stand at Pure London through the initiative should email Pure is part of Top right Group, which also owns Drapers.

Edinburgh Woollen Mill looks abroad The edinburgh Woollen mill Group, which owns the Peacocks, Jane Norman and edinburgh Woollen mill chains, is plotting international growth as its latest accounts showed pre-tax profit almost trebled to £56.7m last year. The business, which rescued Peacocks out of administration in February last year, said it had set its sights on expanding into markets such as Germany, russia and the middle east. Accounts show pre-tax profits increased 181% to £56.7m in the year to march 2, 2013, from £20.2m the previous year. Group sales

climbed 130.7% to £566.7m. The edinburgh Woollen mill Group said the strong financial results were largely thanks to a successful turnaround of Peacocks, in which it had invested £80m over the past year, focusing on quality rather than discounting, building online sales and revamping key stores. The company revealed on monday that it plans to open more than 100 stores across its fascias over the next 18 months. The group continued to perform strongly in the first half of 2013, with a 5% rise in like-for-like sales.

MulBerry pulls out of lfW catWalks

Mulberry has cancelled its catwalk show at February’s London Fashion Week as it continues to search for a new creative director. Previous incumbent Emma Hill left in September. Mulberry, whose spring 14 catwalk is pictured, said it would still take part in LFW, with details to come shortly.

November 30 2013 /



drapers fashion summit 2013

thomas pink sets sights on Vietnam Thomas Pink is planning to enter vietnam as it looks to bolster its presence in growing international markets. International chief executive Jonathan Heilbron said its success in similarly sized territories such as mexico, Hong Kong and Australia had given the team confidence to enter vietnam and that it was looking at “a few others as well”. However, Heilbron said the company recently had exited Turkey, Thailand and malaysia because it could not find the right local franchise partners. “There are two types of franchise partners – one is the big brand manager where you get the knowledge and the experience and there is more finance behind it, but if you are a small brand you can get a bit left behind or a bit squeezed out. The second is the local entrepreneurial guy who loves the brand and thinks he can do great things with it,” he said.

hugo Boss targets department stores Hugo boss is looking to extend its presence in department stores to boost UK profits. The brand will go into more House of Fraser and John Lewis stores to meet “strict financial targets” set by its owner, private equity firm Permira, as the two retailers have more branches in the UK compared with more upmarket department stores. Fahim rahman, commercial strategy manager for business development at Hugo boss, told delegates at the Drapers Fashion Summit: “We started our distribution in the UK through Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Harrods. However, when we look at profitability in order to meet the targets, we have to look at stores with a larger scale.” Hugo boss menswear and womenswear is currently stocked in 22 House of Fraser and five John Lewis stores. The business this week announced it had lowered its 2015 profit target of €750m (£626m) because of the global economy. 6

Drapers / November 30 2013

M&S eyeS IndIa In InternatIonal puSh

Marks & Spencer will focus on key markets such as India as it aims to become an “authoritative” international multichannel retailer, M&S head of international supply chain Kieran Donovan told delegates at Drapers Fashion Summit. The retailer opened a flagship in Mumbai last week.

Mango to enter plus-size market via worldwide launch of Violeta fascia By Jill Geoghegan

mango is launching a new fascia next spring targeting women with fuller figures. violeta will be available in UK sizes 12 to 24 and is aimed at women aged between 30 and 55 years old. The fascia will initially operate from 100 standalone stores worldwide, with stores measuring around 3,230 sq ft. It is not yet known how many branches will open in the UK. The “slightly upgraded” range will feature more premium fabrics including silks and leather, and will retail at 10% to 20% higher than mango’s mainline, where T-shirts cost on average £20 and dresses are priced at £50. Anikó Kostyál, expansion director for russia at mango, told Drapers the fascia would cater to a “niche market with limited competitors.” The move is the latest in the Spanish retailer’s growth plans, after the launches of a premium range, a kidswear line and a sportswear collection for autumn 13. The mango Kids collection is aimed at children aged three to 12. It is being sold in 100 mango stores

Bearing fruit: Mango will open 100 Violeta stores, Anikó Kostyál told delegates

and online, as well as some independent stores. The mango Sport & Intimates collection encompasses pieces for fitness, running and yoga and is available in 140 mango stores in countries including the UK, Spain, Turkey, France, Germany, Portugal, russia, Italy, Switzerland, belgium and Austria, as well as online. The expansion follows impressive growth for the Spanish retail group, which recorded a 79% rise in net profits to €113.4m

(£96.4m) for the 2012 calendar year. revenues increased 20% to €1.69bn (£1.45bn). mango said this had been fuelled by improvements implemented during the first half, which included making changes to its window dressing, advertising and catalogue as well as the creation of the new collections. At present mango has 2,700 stores worldwide, but is on course to open 220 doors globally this year and is aiming to grow revenues to around €1.98bn (£1.68bn).

new brands should exploit ‘lack of choice’ By Catherine neilan

Consumers’ “fatigue” at the uniformity of retail offerings could allow new and specialist brands to carve themselves a niche, according to a fashion investor and member of the House of Lords. Speaking at Drapers Fashion Summit, Lord marland, chairman of the Prime minister’s trade envoys at UK Trade & Investment, claimed “people are tired of high street fashion being owned by the same people”. In particular he noted that certain luxury brands had now become ubiquitous at international airports, arguing that customers wanted something different that would stand out. “It’s clear that fatigue is starting to develop,” he said. “Therein lies the opportunity for new brands or niche businesses to take advantage.” His comments echo that of J Crew boss millard ‘mickey’ Drexler, who on the eve of his UK store launch earlier this month told Drapers he hoped his quirky and design-led offering would enable him to battle against the “homogenous” high street. marland highlighted his own work with wellington boot brand Hunter, which through focusing on its “core DNA and british heritage” had managed to grow its turnover to £80m in the three years he owned

“Thanks for putting on the summit last Thursday. In my opinion, and those I spoke with, it was a success. Well done to the organising team. I only wish that some of the speakers could have answered some of the audience’s questions more directly, but then I should not expect a politician, of any hue, to answer a straight question with a straight answer.” Daniel Morris, managing director, Paul’s Boutique, Ruislip, Middlesex “Thanks for a great day at the Drapers Fashion Summit. We really did find it informative, super well organised and many of the ideas and people we met will make a difference to Duchamp. The Hugo Boss and Lectra presentations were especially interesting.” Marc and Alison Psarolis, directors, Duchamp, London

Niche little earner: Lord Marland said shoppers are looking for something different

it, without spending “a fortune” on marketing. marland, who is also a director of newly launched lifestyle business Tamara mellon, the eponymous brand set up by Jimmy Choo’s co-founder, said others could do the same, highlighting the range of investment vehicles such as enterprise Investment Schemes that encourage investors to support emerging businesses. He also stressed the importance of having a strong digital strategy before seeking external funding. For more established brands

and retailers looking to expand overseas, marland highlighted emerging oil economies such as Kurdistan and Angola as top destinations. “There are so many countries where, if you’re prepared to take the risk, you could make a killing,” he said. While delegates at the summit were enthusiastic about some of the international opportunities he highlighted, marland drew criticism from the floor for dismissing the issue of business rates as one for local authorities to deal with.

Recruitment needs ‘individual plan’

Talent scout: HGA Group’s Harveen Gill warned women faced disadvantages

Summit feedback

retailers need to improve their strategies to attract a global workforce, according to members of a Drapers Fashion Summit panel on how to recruit and retain talent at home and abroad. Harveen Gill, joint managing director of recruitment firm HGA Group, told delegates that as UK retailers grow internationally, they need a strategy to ensure they attract the best talent to work in global markets and think about the individual’s needs.

“many things need to be considered to attract individuals including recognition, reward and, of course, pay cheques,” she said. “There is always one thing for every individual that will help them in the decision to live in another country.” However, Gill warned that in some territories women were at a disadvantage: “It is changing but in some regions it is difficult to work as a woman, for example some parts of the middle east, russia and South Africa.”

“Jeffery-West is a small company and I thought the topics at the summit would probably be more about large international business. While to an extent they were, I found the whole day very interesting and informative so thanks for organising it.” Guy West, director, Jeffery-West, Northampton “The Drapers Fashion Summit, as always, gave a fascinating insight into other companies’ experiences of growing and trading as well as some marvellous networking opportunities. The lunch hosted by the co-sponsor Lectra was delicious and the fellow guests were informative as well as entertaining.” Susan Rose, marketing director, Slaters, Glasgow

“I thoroughly enjoyed your fashion summit and made some great new contacts to follow up on. I am sure we could contribute to a future conference, so please get in touch if you need some international real estate input in the future.” Mark Burlton, partner and head of cross-border retail, Cushman & Wakefield, London

November 30 2013 /




David Walker-Smith of Fenwick (second right) presented Simon Carter and his team with the Menswear Brand of the Year trophy

Jo Hooper led the team from John Lewis to pick up the Department Store Business of the Year award, sponsored by Closet, from Kanya King, founder of the MOBO Awards (second right)


Mark Ashton and the team from Little Mistress received the prize for Young Fashion Brand of the Year from Gary Cobbing of sponsor Uniserve (at back)

The best of the best picked up their trophies during a glittering ceremony at Old Billingsgate last week

Belinda Earl from Marks & Spencer holds the Retailer of the Year – Consumer Choice trophy, presented by Tim Howarth of sponsor Torque (second right)

Paul Marchant of Primark led his team to the stage to receive the Fashion Retail Business of the Year (over ÂŁ125m turnover) award from Tony Mannix of sponsor Clipper (second right)

The John Lewis team, led by Kim Morris, carried off the Best Store Design award for its Exeter branch, presented by Richard Bradbury (second right), ex-CEO of River island and a judge this year

Josie Roscop of River Island picked up the trophy for Fashion Marketing Campaign of the Year from awards judge David Carter-Johnson (second right) of My Beautiful City



And the winners are...

Drapers / NOVEMBER 30 2013

Gerry Matthews and his team from CDI Studio collected the inaugural Fashion Supplier of the Year award from Shelley Pinto (second right) of sponsor Fashion & Retail Personnel

The team from Primark, led by Stephen Mullen, picked up the International Retailer of the Year accolade from Sean Smith of sponsor Kerry Logistics (second right)

Derek Lovelock of Aurora Fashions was presented with the Lifetime Achievement award by Rachel Roberts of sponsor Freedom Executive (second right) following a tribute given by Coast’s Kate Bostock (second left). Awards host Dara Ó Briain (left) and Drapers editor Eric Musgrave (right) are also pictured

Neil Chadwick led the team from Seasalt to pick up the Womenswear Brand of the Year award from Drapers’ Ana Santi (second right)

Peter Ruis collected the new Fashion Retailing Personality of the Year award from Lucy Harris of sponsor Heidrick & Struggles SUPPORTERS

Dean Wyatt of sponsor DHL Supply Chain (second left) presented the trophy for Fashion Pure-Play Etailer of the Year to Stefan Pesticcio of Asos

Ian Maclean of John Smedley holds the trophy for Premium Fashion Brand of the Year, presented by Sam Dunley of sponsor Kuehne + Nagel (second right)

Mark Ashton of sponsor Little Mistress handed the Fashion Retail Business of the Year (under £125m turnover) award to Sandy Verdon and colleagues from Hobbs HOSTESS SPONSOR



NOVEMBER 30 2013 /



Celebrating in style Drapers Awards guests were in the mood to party into the early hours


Drapers / November 30 2013

November 30 2013 /




Talking Shop

‘Our buying has changed with the weather’


ver the past few years we at Scarecrow have made a conscious decision to change the way we buy for our boutique. This has not come about as a result of the recession and tough trading times – even though these issues have certainly had an impact. It is, rather, because of the weather and how erratic and changeable it has become. As a result, we have stopped forward ordering, as we have found that traditional clothing seasons are now so out of synch with what is happening outdoors. In February, when we would receive the start of our spring collections, the weather would be freezing cold and snowing, and the last thing our customers wanted to buy was a

Adriana Green

Owner of womenswear retailer Scarecrow Boutique in Crouch End, London

cute floral blouse. Instead, they wanted coats, knitwear, hats and gloves. In September we received our winter deliveries and, unsurprisingly, our customers did not want to buy things like coats and heavy knits while it was still warm and sunny. So we faced a dilemma. After long discussions we eventually decided it was foolish to continue buying our

stock like this – we were losing out and so were our customers. We were already picking up some stock weekly or fortnightly to update our lines because most of our customers are locals and regularly come in once a week to see new pieces. Now we go buying once or twice a week, either physically or online with our suppliers. This way we know what the weather will be like – and we know what our customers are likely to want and need there and then. We have not completely stopped ordering in advance, but we only do so from labels and designers that supply short orders. This gives us more control over delivery times and stock. The weather is changing and we have had to as well. So far it is working for us.

Talking Business

‘Life out of London is hard for foreign retailers’


Punk. Rock. Retro. Vintage. Music Merch. Street. The National Hall, Olympia, London, W14. UK. Trade Buyers Only REGISTER NOW:


Drapers / NOVEMBER 30 2013

s the fuss dies down over another great retail store opening and J Crew turns its attention to the important issue of Christmas trade and delivering on the numbers, the retail property world turns its attention to the question of who will be next to try and crack the UK. It is a question that occupies the thinking of many as the industry seeks to replace those brands and fascias lost in the economic downturn. Are the international retailers really a cure for some of our high street woes? New names attract great press and footfall when they open, but history shows that the UK is not an easy win. For every J Crew coming in there is normally a Gilly Hicks reversing out.

David Kenningham Consultant at property firm Kenningham Retail

It is fair to assume that the luxury brands will continue to focus primarily on London and the major department stores. Standalone stores outside the capital will still be few and far between for upmarket businesses. However, it is the mid-market retailers that tend to generate the most excitement in the property world, where there is the hope that they might take

20 or 30, or possibly even more, stores around the country. Yet it is this market segment that is probably more competitive in the UK than anywhere in the world, and international retailers have found to their cost that what works well in London does not necessarily work elsewhere in the country. Some of the biggest international names (for example Gap and H&M) struggled to crack the UK nationwide and have at one time or another since their arrival on these shores reduced their store portfolio, often retreating back to London. With major changes in the retail marketplace since some of these great businesses first opened stores in the UK, one wonders whether expansion outside the capital has any merit.


‘In any business model the only constant is change’


was given plenty to think about after the Drapers Fashion Summit last Thursday, which attracted a couple of hundred delegates to enjoy a series of presentations on internationalisation (see pages 2 and 3 for our report). One of the most stimulating talks for me came from Anastasia Charbin, worldwide fashion marketing director for Lectra, which specialises in integrated technology systems for the industry and was a co-sponsor of the conference. She pointed out that the distinctions between brands, retailers and manufacturers that were once regarded as the norm are now being bent and blurred into a new hybrid business model. Think of how many brands go straight to the consumer through their own shops and websites to understand what she means. Also consider the voracious appetite of Li & Fung, once ‘just’ a supplier of clothes for other people’s labels, to buy up brands, especially UK heritage brands. Charbin also highlighted how, against a background of consumers becoming more sophisticated and price savvy, fashion firms need to evolve their processes to meet growing demands for newness, quality and better price-to-value. To compete in the market and reduce time to the consumer, companies must evolve their supply chain management into a fully integrated supply flow model. It all makes perfect sense, but changing systems and working practices is easier said than done. Lectra’s analysis can be applied to so many aspects of the industry, from how the designto-sampling process needs to be shortened and speeded up to how independent retailers need to alter their buying patterns so they are

Eric Musgrave Editorial director, Drapers

placing more orders in season to increase the opportunity of selling more clothes at full price. Suppliers, however, need to be offering more appropriate in-season stock, so the whole question is an integrated one. In some cases the changes may have to be swift and radical; in others the approach may have to be one of constant evolution. In this instance, it is well to remember that in fashion the only constant is change. With the assistance of informed experts like Lectra, Drapers intends to bring you more examples of successful change management in our feature pages. One sector that is in a state of flux is trade exhibitions. Our December 14 edition will carry our seasonal listing of the major fairs worldwide – and it is a long list. I enjoy visiting trade shows to catch the mood and meet with contacts, but, like many of you, I have to be more and more selective about where I go. The likely non-appearance of Stitch in London in February and the ongoing problems of Bread & Butter in Berlin are reminders of the sector’s volatility. While Stitch never captured

the imagination of many in the casualwear/ streetwear area, until a few seasons ago BBB was an unmissable forum for brands and buyers. Now it is struggling to respond to the sort of changes Anastasia Charbin referred to, notably that many large brands are more interested in selling direct to the consumer than finding new trade partners. There was a poignant reminder of the importance of people in our industry this week with a memorial gathering on Thursday at the Polish Hearth Club in Kensington to celebrate the life of Henri Strzelecki, co-founder with Angus Lloyd of Henri Lloyd. The genial and charismatic “Mr Henri” died on December 26 last year aged 87 and his sons Martin and Paul, who now run the Manchester-based company, wanted to bring together friends and colleagues who had been unable to attend the funeral last winter. As a pioneer of developing technical clothing, mainly for yachting, Henri was a fine example of how to embrace and initiate change. To create a fashion brand from such a specialist technical focus was a superb achievement from an inspirational man. On the subject of yachting, I’d like to remind readers that Mark Newton-Jones, former boss of Shop Direct, is currently crew member in a transatlantic yacht race. His 17 or so days at sea are in the cause of the Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust and Children with Cancer UK. You can contribute by going to uk. Finally, a correction: last week, due to misinformation from M&S, I wrongly credited my smart new overcoat to Cheshire Clothing when, in fact, it was made by The Clothing Works in Corby. Credit where credit’s due.

Drapers is based at Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: All Drapers emails follow the style of All Drapers telephone numbers begin with 020 3033 followed by the extension number shown here. EDITORIAL Editorial Director Eric Musgrave, 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 2767 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 2861 Features Editor James Knowles, 2761 Associate Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 2768 Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 2762 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson COMMERCIAL Group Commercial Director James MacLeod, 2939 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 2952 Senior Account Manager Rebecca Soni, 2958 Account Managers Elizabeth Harris, 2994, Natalie Hill, 4305 Sales Executive Daniel May, 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 2962 Classified Sales Executive Dawn O’Brien, 2959 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 2677 Recruitment Advertising Account Director Peter Bruce-Smythe, 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 2669, Rebecca Tonkinson, 2991 Senior Campaign Marketing Executive Kam Sohi, 2870 Head of Brand Hayley Ward, 4276 Production Controller David Ly, 2687 PUBLISHING Managing Director, Architecture, Fashion & Building Services Richard Breeden, 2683 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013

NOVEMBER 30 2013 /




Dan Coen


hristmas is now less than a month away and the big brand campaign battle is well underway. Retailers such as Marks & Spencer, John Lewis and Next are all spending millions of pounds on TV adverts and taking to social media with a vengeance to ensure they are targeting and engaging with consumers though all channels. However, traditional TV advertising is not cheap. For instance, John Lewis’s Christmas advert cost £1m to make and that is just the beginning, with TV airtime costs on top of that. So what are the opportunities for start-ups who can’t afford these costly advertising campaigns? How can they raise awareness of their brand without breaking the bank? The rise of ecommerce and social media has increased the ease in which these smaller retailers can distribute their products and advertise at a fraction of a price. In this ‘new advertising world’ the quickest way for a retailer to get their products out to consumers is through sites like Twitter, Facebook and YouTube, while also enticing bloggers on board. Using these marketing tactics can have a powerful effect for retailers of any size, even smaller cottage retailers – and this is becoming more apparent every day. Recent research from eBay found that UK retail sales resulting from social media are predicted to rise to £290 by 2014 – which is a 44% increase on 2013’s figures. One such cottage industry retailer, which has used social media and ecommerce to become a huge success, is The Cambridge Satchel Company. Set up in 2008, it started with a budget of £600 and sold three bags a week from the owner’s kitchen table. It now has a turnover of more than £12m, with £5m made internationally. Its success is largely attributed to a strong social media presence with bloggers backing the brand and a viral YouTube video. This shows the power of online channels to engage with consumers, without the need for expensive ad campaigns. Online can therefore present a huge opportunity for small retailers, with £3bn of retail sales predicted to be influenced by social media by 2014. As such, we are likely to be on the cusp of a retail ‘cottage industry’ revolution as start-ups take on these channels to engage with consumers – just as The Cambridge Satchel Company did.

‘Marketing via social media can have a powerful effect for retailers of any size’

Drapers / NOVEMBER 30 2013



Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper


WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX National UK footfall figures Week 47 – November 18 to 24, 2013



The 2.1% week-on-week increase is 2.5% higher than the growth rate for the same week last year. While showing negative growth, the year-on-year result still represents an improvement on the performance for the same week last year. East Midlands, Northern Ireland, London and Southwest & Wales are the only UK regions to benefit from a year-on-year increase. The greatest growth levels were again in the East Midlands where the Index rose 2.8%.


Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending November 24, 2013

+1.28% +1.96%


Total fashion

+1.09% Footwear

Fashion sales were relatively polarised this week, with the best retailers slightly restricted by the weaker performers in the index. Mainstream fashion was particularly robust but the more specialist retailers struggled, with many ending up in negative territory. For more information, email


The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

The most applied for jobs 1. Design 8.2% SOUTHAMPTON 18.6%

2. Production 7.1% 3. Sales 6.1% 4. Merchandising 5.4%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

5. Buying 4.9%


‘Social media is a big opportunity for start-ups’


Premium What’s selling now? WOMEN’S


Lucy Wilkins Manager, Weekend in Sherborne, Dorset

Carl Bradley Owner, Bradley Knipe in Doncaster

“We’re selling a lot of partywear at the moment with Christmas and New Year’s Eve approaching. The Stella (£435) black and emerald dress from Milly is selling strongly. The colours are very striking and it has a beautiful shape. We’re also doing well with Milly’s Mila lace top (£255).”

“Boss Orange, Boss Green and Stone Island have been our three bestsellers recently. Boss Orange and Boss Green jackets (around £300) and jeans (£100 to £120) have been doing well. Stone Island jackets (£300 to £600) have also impressed.” Austique

Peter Bell Co-owner, The House Designer Wear in Yarm, North Yorkshire

Jackie Abusin Owner, Olivia Grace in Wetherby, West Yorkshire “Pennyblack is one of my top sellers. We’ve been doing such a mixture of the range. We’re doing well with the Roncade shift dress (£135) and the Assisi coat (£269). We’re also selling a lot of Repeat knitwear (£140 to £150) – it’s unique and stands out.”

“Denim (£90 to £150) by Armani Jeans is performing strongly and Boss Black knitwear (£100) is a good seller. Vivienne Westwood shirts (from £190) are also starting to sell as people begin getting ready for the party season. We’re also shifting quite a lot of footwear. Boss Green trainers (£120) are a bestseller.”

Roz Clarke Owner, Roz Clarke in Windsor

Sean Machin Manager, Christopher Scotney in Leicester

“Stone Island is our bestseller at the moment. Mainly jackets (around £1,000) and long-sleeved tops (£189). Jeans (from £149) and knitwear (from £189) by Armani Jeans are also doing well.”

“We’ve had a good sell-through with knitwear from both Lilith (£250 to £350) and High (£250 to £350). It’s about the quality and design – it’s great.”

Anne Wright Owner, Young Ideas in Ashbourne, Derbyshire “Paul Smith is selling for us across the board. Both the knitwear (£120 to £300) and dresses (£250 to £350) have been going well. People have been going with the winter floral patterns. It’s the quirky attention to detail that people like. We’re also doing well with Weekend MaxMara coats (£300 to £400). The brand does lovely Italian styling.”


“Guide London is my best-selling brand, particularly the shirts (£65). Steel & Jelly shirts (£65) and Duck and Cover knitwear (£55) are also popular.”

Matt Hansell Manager, Hatters in Norwich


Rachel Morris Head of retail, Austique in Chelsea, London

“Boss Black knitwear (£100 to £150) has been selling. As has Diesel denim (£100 to £150). Paul Smith accessories (£50 to £100) are also popular right now.”

“Our best-selling brand is definitely our own Austique label. We’ve been selling lots of cashmere jumpers (£145 to £320). Customers are buying them because the quality is exceptionally high and they’re good value for money.”

Holland Esquire

Paul Lown Manager and buyer, Lynx Menswear in Harrogate “Holland Esquire tailoring has been doing very well, particularly jackets (£399 to £425) and cashmere coats (£700). Replay coloured chinos (£90 to £135) in green, plum and navy are good sellers. Barena jackets (£299) and waistcoats (£120) are also selling. The weather is getting a little chillier now so coats by Canada Goose (about £650) have started to move.”

Baska Dunaj Owner and buyer, Baska in Cambridge “This season Moschino Cheap & Chic would have to be our bestseller. The collection has a beautiful range of prints and they have very unusual cuts, which customers like. Marella is another brand that is going well. It’s the brand’s dresses (£180 to £250) and also the trousers (£110 to £180) that have been the strong sellers.”

Kevin Carew Owner, Redfords in Solihull

Clodagh Shorten Owner, Samui in Cork, Republic of Ireland “We’re doing well with Moncler, especially the Flamme coat (£791). The brand is amazingly comfortable to wear. Acne is another brand that has been strong this season. We’ve been selling a lot of its knitwear (£293 to £335).”

Caroline O’Neill Manager, Digg in Dungannon, Northern Ireland

Armani Jeans Stone Island

“The usual suspects are doing well – Hugo Boss denim (£100 to £150) and Armani Jeans denim (£100 to £150). Now the weather has changed Stone Island coats (£400 to £800) are selling strongly. Gran Sasso knitwear (£130 to £180) is also going very nicely. It is handmade in Italy and is good quality.” NOVEMBER 30 2013 /




Multichannel focus

Jimmy Choo relaunches its website; Pinterest allows third-party pins; and festive trading tips Words by KEELY STOCKER

Jimmy Choo edits online world

PINTEREST ADDS FUNCTIONS FOR THIRD-PARTY SITES Picture-sharing website Pinterest has released an application programming interface (API) that will allow customers to ‘pin’ images directly from retailer’s websites. Previously, users of the site could follow brands and retailers on the Pinterest platform and pin products from the site onto their own Pinterest boards. Retailers can now integrate the API into their own site, which will automatically show which products have been pinned the most and give customers the option to see which item has had the most traction via Pinterest. Pinterest has stated that further APIs will be rolled out in the coming weeks including top repins, most recent pins, related pins, most clicked-through pins and pins from specific search terms.

Luxury footwear and accessories label Jimmy Choo has relaunched its website with a focus on editorial content. The editorial section, called Choo World, gives users trend information and advice as well as video content and interviews with actors January Jones and Thandie Newton, and pop star Tinie Tempah. Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi also offers customers an insight into her world by way of behind-thescenes content including travel

journals, mood boards and sketches and photography. The site has a refreshed design, with large campaign and product images showcasing the latest collections. Product pages feature multiple images as well as further recommendations. Users can also save a wish list on the site, which they are invited to share with the brand so it can see which items are popular. The site, which uses responsive design, is available on desktop, tablet and mobile.

HOW TO GET THE MOST OUT OF GLOBAL ETAIL THIS CHRISTMAS Practicology chief executive Martin Newman on the differences in festive trading around the world ● Understand the differences in traffic spikes from consumers in different countries and be prepared to address their differing expectations on when seasonal promotions should happen. Mondays are busy for online


Drapers / NOVEMBER 30 2013

shopping around the world, but there are variations in behaviour. ● For instance, Germans start their festive shopping online the earliest, but their peak (just before Christmas) is also one of the latest. So you must make it easy for international customers to understand how late they can leave it to order for delivery before Christmas. ● Nordic shoppers peak on Green Monday (the second Monday in December). Have you thought about

promotions to email them in the run-up to this date? ● The peak in French online shopping over Christmas doesn’t happen until the Sales. In France, there are sales peaks in January higher than any day in December. Will your customer service team cope with a peak in demand from French customers that doesn’t come until the new year? ● US shoppers are well-known for waiting until Black Friday and Cyber

Monday to start their Christmas shopping online in earnest. But the action continues all through December – including Christmas Day and Boxing Day, which isn’t a public holiday in the US. ● Think about the timings of email marketing to international customers. Australia is 11 hours ahead – so emails to Australian customers sent out on a Monday morning UK time may be too late to capture and convert them.

We’ve perfected Returns Management with Boomerang™, our new multichannel reverse logistics solution for retailers operating in the UK and across Europe. Whether it be fashion retail, high-value or general merchandise, we take cost, complexity and risk out of your supply chain, enabling you to grow and trade more competitively and responsively. Our work with many brands including ASOS, SuperGroup and John Lewis demonstrates a high level of expertise in managing the returns processes smoothly and efficiently. So if you're looking to evolve in the UK or Europe, and want the experts on your side visit or call our Managing Director, Tony Mannix on 0113 204 2050 today.

Boomerang Returns Management by Clipper

Mapic round-up I ProPerTy

Retailers’ concrete plan for bricks and mortar

The big talking point at this year’s Mapic fair was how digital retail can help ensure the survival of physical shops Words by JAMES KNOWLES


mnichannel retail and internationalisation were the key themes at the 19th edition of global retail property trade show mapic, which was held in Cannes from November 13 to 15. Attendees packed the aisles at the seafront Palais des Festivals venue, with the retail property developers and agents who exhibited reporting a more upbeat mood compared with the previous

year, and “more serious conversations, people prepared to do business, and deals being done”, according to one. Show organisers reported that about 8,300 delegates attended from 70 countries, and of the 2,400 retailers present, 400 were visiting for the first time. However, topping the agenda were two of the key themes currently gripping UK retail – how to best manage store estates in an omnichannel trading environment and the

opportunities and challenges presented by potential overseas expansion. A survey of 10,000 consumers from across europe by property firm Cbre found that 40% of 16 to 65-year-olds shop online, and that two thirds research products on the internet before visiting physical stores. The research also found that younger consumers – often considered more digitally focused – still want to touch and feel products and that 86% of them still see the bricks-and-mortar store as an integral part of the shopping experience. at Jones Lang LasaLLe’s panel session redefining retail Places, the global real estate firm’s head of research James brown said: “It is clear that while retail markets globally are at different stages of evolution, there are a number of common forces that are reshaping retail across the world. They are population growth and urbanisation, multispeed economic growth, ecommerce and technology, inflation and detailed analytics. “How we respond to those trends will differ by country, by city and by retail place, but we will need to be prepared to adapt to further change as it arises.” Addressing the trends towards both digital and internationalisation, Debenhams international director Francis mcAuley said businesses need to be comfortable in their home market and online before tackling global expansion.


Drapers / November 30 2013

How we respond to trends will differ by country, by city and by retail place, but we will need to be prepared

Land SecuritieS unveiLS WeStgate and Buchanan gaLLerieS deveLopMentS

James Brown, head of research, Jones Lang Lasalle

“There may be fewer people going to the malls and to the high street, but if you are bringing people back into your location, then it us up to you to convert those people into customers.” Click-and-collect is becoming increasingly important to Debenhams and mcAuley said the retailer has seen an 11-fold increase in the number of parcels collected in store compared with this time last year, with the additional spend by those customers coming into store tripling during the same period. However, one of the real challenges facing the high street is price matching. “The way to get past that is to create your own brand. our Designers at Debenhams range is only sold in our stores, so therefore you can’t price match it. And I believe more retailers have to do their own product,” said mcAuley. Peter Williams, non-executive director at etailer Asos, said that in order for retailers to compete in an omnichannel environment they need to employ younger people: “They are less risk-averse and will try new things, and from that comes new ideas.” However, mcAuley added a cautionary note and said that online is not the panacea to UK retail, and that while the channel continues to perform strongly, growth is plateauing. He added that future growth will come from international expansion via stores and a web presence in those countries.

Cannes-do: exhibitors at Mapic were upbeat about the opportunities presented by global retail market evolution

He added that with a relatively small portfolio of 167 stores, which all “make money”, it is easier for Debenhams to update its portfolio than for those with more stores. “our stores are becoming more important as our ecommerce business grows. Some weeks we are taking 30% of sales on ecommerce that are being picked up in store.

WiLLiams summarised on a positive note, saying he is “optimistic about the future of bricks-and-mortar retailing”. He said: “I think it’s going to change and the internet is affecting that, but people still want to go out shopping. It is a social event and they are interested in seeing what’s new. So there may be fewer [shopping locations] and they may be more concentrated and more ‘showroomy’ than they used to be, but they will still be there and an important part of consumers’ time.” He also stressed the importance of creating entertaining and theatrical experiences for customers. “The ultimate message is that people who own shopping centres or stores need to be in the entertainment business.”

Oxford Westgate

The Westgate Alliance – a joint venture between Land Securities and The Crown Estate – unveiled the 800,000 sq ft Oxford city centre Westgate development. Bert Martin, development director at Land Securities, told Drapers the project has already seen interest from domestic and international retailers keen to have a presence in the historic city. He said: “We think Westgate is the most anticipated scheme in the UK. Oxford is top of the list for many retailers in regards to property requirements.” The development will bring 100 retailers to the city, anchored by a full-line John Lewis department store, and with the city’s largest car park with 1,000 spaces. The development is due for completion in autumn 2017.

Buchanan Galleries

The Buchanan Partnership, a joint venture between Land Securities and Henderson Global Investors, also revealed the first views of its planned transformation of the Buchanan Galleries in Glasgow. When it is completed in 2017, the 1.2 million sq ft of retail and leisure space will house 100 shops, 25 restaurants and a multi-screen cinema. The development will be anchored by a new 150,000 sq ft Marks & Spencer and a 300,000 sq ft reconfigured John Lewis. The project will benefit from the city’s wider regeneration plans, which include upgrading the adjacent Queen Street station. Network Rail’s planned upgrade will allow shoppers and commuters to walk directly into the centre from the station. Nick Davis, development director at Land Securities, told Drapers that Glasgow’s status as the number one retail city outside London makes it an attractive prospect for fashion retailers.

November 30 2013 /



The Drapers InTervIew I PETER RUIS

Building Jigsaw piece by piece In his first interview since becoming boss of the retailer, Peter Ruis reveals his plan to revive its quirky personality Words by ANA SANTI Photography by TOM CAMPBELL


veryone’s got a Jigsaw story. Everyone, including the retailer’s newly appointed chief executive, Peter Ruis. “For me, it was that every girl I chased at college worked there or wore the clothes. They were impossibly cool,” he remembers. “It was understated sexiness at a time when fashion wasn’t sexy. It had an attitude. Everyone’s got a Jigsaw story, whatever their age.” But in the last decade or so of its 40-year history, Jigsaw lost that edge, with brands such as Whistles and Hobbs leading the charge in the premium womenswear market. “I think the business got a little bit tired and lost a point of view, lost its uniqueness,” Ruis admits. “But that’s the challenge. I think starting a brand from scratch is really hard in fashion. If you’ve got that amazing history, then there’s a way of harnessing that power again. You can’t invent that.” Ruis joined the retailer in September and is determined to bring that attitude back to Jigsaw, and his flawless track record at John Lewis suggests he is more than capable. Since he joined the department store in 2005 as head of menswear, Ruis has been credited with transforming John Lewis from a retailer that sold clothes to one that sells fashion, the bellwether for the UK high street, a feat that earned him the Fashion Retailing Personality of the Year accolade at the Drapers Awards 2013 last week. “Most people said to me when I joined John Lewis in 2005 ‘you’re mad, it’s a bit tired, it’s lost its way’, but it’s really fun regenerating something. When John [Robinson, the founder of Jigsaw] asked me to come, the more I thought about it, the more I couldn’t think of a reason not to. Plus, I was really scared of cruising along. [John Lewis] was such a lovely job that I could wake up in my 50s and turn into one those bastions of retail that had steered a fair ship in an OK direction,” says 45-year-old Ruis. “Really good brands are very visceral and I couldn’t think of a better brand than Jigsaw in terms of doing something different.” 20

Drapers / NOvEMBER 30 2013

Unsurprisingly then, focusing on brand perception is a top priority for Ruis. After all, the business itself is in good shape, after a rocky 2011 when parent company Robinson Webster Holdings, which also includes London designer retailer The Shop at Bluebird, posted a pre-tax loss of £21.2m. But for the year to September 29, 2012, the business recorded sales of £60.2m, a rise of 10%, with pre-tax profits of £1.6m, after closing its loss-making Kew fascia. At John Lewis Oxford Street, Jigsaw is the number one womenswear brand. “We take a lot more than Whistles, more than Hobbs. It makes you realise the product is there,” says Ruis. “The perception of the brand is below where the product is. We have beautiful, high-quality product made in a way that other people can’t make.” Ruis believes the best way to achieve this is to start with the shops, of which Jigsaw has 61 and 29 concessions in the UK, plus four US stores. “We used to be streets ahead of everyone; we were doing shop design when no one was doing shop design,” he says. “I remember being blown away by the [architect] John Pawson shops and students from [Central] Saint Martins queuing outside when it opened on Bond Street in 1995. I want us to bring back some unique shopfits.” And he’ll do that pretty soon. Ruis is close to announcing a new Jigsaw flagship in London next year that will be “very mad and different, and get the personality back into our shops”, he assures. “What I’ve learnt is that the shop is at the centre of how your brand is defined, even with young consumers. That’s a big learning from John Lewis. Each younger generation is more and more obsessed with the shop and a need to engage in a non-digital experience because they live their lives digitally. You crave and love a non-digital experience, so you want to go shopping.” Alongside the stores, Ruis intends to increase Jigsaw’s marketing presence, starting with the launch of a Christmas campaign on London buses shot by photographer Rankin. “In the past, Jigsaw got Juergen Teller to shoot its look book. u

MAY 1, 2014

HILTON PARK LANE, LONDON @DrapersFAAwards #DrapersFAAwards

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t I’m going to bring the mentality that the brand needs to be more than just what it sells, and I want Christmas to be a big part of that,” Ruis says when I ask if he will recreate the magic of the now famous John Lewis Christmas TV ads – which he spearheaded as buying and brand director at the department store – at Jigsaw. “I want to bring back the idea that Christmas is a peak time for retailers and I want to be at full price until December 24. It’s Christmas,” he cries, exasperated by the now established pre-Christmas discounting across the high street. “We’re just killing the market.” In addition, Ruis is eyeing a slot at London Fashion Week. “In womenswear, we’re happy with the commerciality but we need to up the cool factor. I think Jigsaw can be very unique. We’ve always used people like [British tweed manufacturer] Abraham Moon & Sons and I think we’re [Carlisle-based mill] Linton Tweeds’ biggest customer. But we’re not marketing ourselves.” WHILE RUIS IS confident that Jigsaw’s product offer is “good enough to drive the business forward”, it’s still an area he plans to address, after he took the team to the Westbourne Grove store for a field trip. “We had a big session with the team where we removed 20% to 30% of the options. After that, we said ‘It looks great now, doesn’t it?’.” Within Ruis’s remit is Jigsaw menswear and The Shop at Bluebird, two businesses in which he sees great potential. Menswear relaunched last autumn and sales are up 30% on last year. It makes up 8% of total turnover and Ruis plans to take that to 20% to 30%. But what makes Ruis confident that Jigsaw can make a success of it second time around? “There’s such a gap for a cool menswear brand on the high street and I don’t want to be a womenswear boutique; I want to be a really interesting retailer,” Ruis insists, going on to explain the history of Jigsaw menswear, which became a licensed business and whose name changed to Yth, before “fizzling out”. Ruis says the challenge for menswear in a traditionally womenswear business is where to put the clothes in store. “Do men want to go through a load of womenswear before they get to the menswear? Or do we create big flagships?” Ruis says the new London flagship will make menswear “come alive”. He asks me: “Have you been to the Rapha [bicycle] shop? I want to create much more of a total experience. We’re bringing coffee into our stores; it’s very male friendly. We’ll obviously only get the best coffee.” As for Bluebird, Ruis wants three or four of them in the UK and may even extend it to the US. It’s a bold move given how tough the sector is, but with the operational backing of Jigsaw – Ruis intends to bring Bluebird’s operations into Jigsaw – it could be a huge boost to the sector in terms of nurturing the new or smaller brands it stocks. As Simon Burstein, chief executive of luxury independent Browns, says: “I’m a big fan of Peter

Raising its game: Peter Ruis says Jigsaw needs to improve the perception of its high-quality clothing (spring 14, pictured)

Ruis, so if he says it’s good for Jigsaw, I suspect he knows what he’s talking about.” Bluebird will launch onto online portal Farfetch imminently, before unveiling its own transactional website. The development of Bluebird is arguably what Ruis is most excited about; we meet for coffee at the King’s Road store where he’s like a child in a sweet shop, pointing out a beautiful Woolrich parka and the Victoria Beckham collection, which the lady herself (together with David) came to see only a few weeks ago, among the treasure trove of books, art and homeware. Ruis is currently looking for a head of buying to run the team of three. So, let me see if I’ve got this right: increase Jigsaw’s cool factor, launch some crazy shopfits, grow menswear, expand Bluebird. That’s some to-do list. “It will take three to five years to get Jigsaw anywhere near close to where I want it to be,” says Ruis. “We want to take the business over £100m turnover to at least 10% net profitability. We have an international business, but we are at the early stages of it. We’re opening a shop in Dubai next month, in South Africa in the new year, and we have ambitions to go into all the European department stores.”

If there is one concern among industry sources as to whether Ruis can get the job done, it’s the Robinsons. The husband and wife owners of Robinson Webster Holdings, John and Belle, are thought to be very hands-on and protective of their family business, so will they give him enough autonomy? It’s not good form to criticise your boss on your first interview, so I’m hardly expecting Ruis to say no, but I believe him when he says: “John is the conscience of the brand and ensures the shareholders are getting the right return. He gets excited about product and about new shops. He’s a wonderfully charismatic, mild individual. It’s the first time anyone’s really run their business,” Ruis concedes. “But I’ve had complete support for every decision I’ve made. The Robinsons have been brilliant.” Plus, Ruis is the man who showed his old boss, John Lewis managing director Andy Street, the business’s Christmas ad for the first time just days before it aired on television. No long, drawn-out discussions, no sign-off required. The decision making was all Ruis’s. And the trust was all Street’s. If that dynamic can be replicated at Jigsaw, then that is one transformation fashion retail would certainly welcome. NOVEMBER 30 2013 /




‘We need to make sense of the seasons’ Graeme Moran Associate fashion editor, Drapers


f the early bird catches the worm, then Christopher Kane is going to be one fat designer come the end of the spring 14 season. His latest menswear collection, all distorted matrix computer graphics and summer-ready bright colours, is already being sold online. Kane’s spring 14 collection went on sale in midNovember and you can buy his new printed T-shirts and sweaters at etailers such as Oki-ni and Matches is even selling a pair of bright yellow cotton jersey cropped shorts. Yes, shorts – while most of us are reaching for our winter hats and gloves. Interestingly, the new collection sits beside Kane’s autumn 13 stock, which is still being sold at full price. Clearly there is a thirst for fresh product and his customers don’t seem to mind, but it does seem odd to be selling product designed – superficially and in name at least – for spring and summer just as winter is properly arriving. But it’s always the way. Bikinis and sandals arrive in store during chilly February, but by the time July comes around and some of us are lucky enough to seek out the summer sun, in come the winter collections. The traditional seasonal structure is becoming less relevant and out of sync with what people actually want to buy. With pre-collections, short-order labels, 24-hour in-store deliveries and never-out-of-stock systems, there is new product all year round, but we still pigeonhole everything into seasonal categories. I applaud Kane for capitalising on the desire for his clothes as early as he can, but it makes me wonder when we’ll rethink the way we organise the seasons.

Bags of colour from Ilex London Accessories brand Ilex London introduces pops of bright colour for spring 14 with luxe leathers, contrast trims and snake and croc print styles all available now. Tote, cross-body and clutch styles make up the bag range in full colour or contrast options, alongside accessories including purses, wallets and belts. Stockists include Debenhams and Fenwick and wholesale prices range from £10 for a purse to £88 for a leather handbag. Contact: 020 3657 5680


Drapers / NOVEMBER 30 2013

Not so basic basics Trends may come and go, but the humble plain T-shirt is a staple of all wardrobes. However, perfecting something so simple is often difficult. Yet new British menswear label Rebel & Crown believes it has cracked it. Working with tailor Douglas Davis (inset), it has taken the craft of Savile Row and applied it to the tee, creating a product that focuses on fit and fabric. The three silhouettes available are the Extra Easy, which comes with relaxed fit all over; the fitted, seamed narrow-cut Super Slim; and the Standard Sculpted, which features a tapered waist for a figure-hugging shape. Each wholesales for £18 and comes in black, white or grey in US Supima cotton. The range is available now for spring 14 deliveries. Contact: 020 7428 3280


After initially launching this summer via its own website, women’s fast-fashion brand Lasula has opened its wholesale books for the first time. The speedy design team react to top young fashion trends, celebrity looks and street style directions, offering a constant supply of fresh product with new collections and range updates dropping every two weeks. Wholesale prices start at £15 for dresses and reach £25 for outerwear. Contact: 07738 168577



Due to the unpredictable British weather, customers are welcoming the rise of the raincoat trend. Drapers picks three of the best available to order now

u STUTTERHEIM The current bestseller from Swedish raincoat specialist Stutterheim is the Stockholm in black, made from thick rubberised cotton with double-welded seams. It is available in 11 colour options.


Wholesale: £80 Contact: 020 7749 8625



Farah Vintage inks details of collection Farah Vintage gets a fresh shake-up in its autumn 14 collection, titled Rave Against the Machine. Expect a mix of old and new, with the blending of suiting and sportswear detailing in pieces such as oversized bombers and slim overcoats. The key print (pictured) has been created by British illustrator Rich Fairhead, inspired by DIY tattoos. Check out the full collection at trade show Seek in Berlin on January 14 to 16. Contact: 01376 502345

Baracuta fine tunes its Harrington jacket Capitalising on its British heritage, menswear label Baracuta has introduced a new colourway for its iconic G9 Harrington jacket: racing green, the colour traditionally used by British motor racing teams. The jacket is an exclusive collaboration with Manchester independent Oi Polloi. After launching in December, the jacket will be incorporated into the Baracuta mainline for autumn 14. It will wholesale for £106 and orders can be taken from January. Contact: 07773 775092

An ongoing collaboration between Swedish brand Elvine and rainwear specialist Grundéns has resulted in the label’s popular Björkö coat. Made from PVC and coated cotton with welded seams that are 100% wind and waterproof, yellow and navy options are available to buy now. Wholesale: £48 Contact: 020 7725 5700


Rains’ stock programme means deliveries of its rainwear can take as little as 24 hours. Top sellers this season are the short jacket in black and blue, and the long option in green (pictured). Eight other styles are available in a range of colours.


Wholesale: £25 Contact: 07598 710626

NOVEMBER 30 2013 /




Reiss menswear Reiss has based its menswear around the classic resort style of the 1950s. Key pieces include Cuban-collar shirts, coloured Harrington jackets and basket-weave blazers, while prints have taken a slightly bolder edge, with Moroccan tiling and blown-up geometric patterns. Suits have been slimmed down in silhouette, while shirting is kept neat with concealed buttons. Basic layering will also play a strong role, with relaxed pieces such as jersey loungewear.



A first look at the key trend stories and major pieces in the multiples’ spring Words by GRAEME MORAN & EMILY NORVAL

Asos menswear Streetwear is a strong influence, coming through in a sleek monochrome story featuring contrast-sleeve bomber and varsity jackets, skinny jeans or the key jogging pants. A grungier direction references 1990s plaids, biker jackets and ripped denim. Prints offer a splash of colour via tropical florals and religious icon graphics. A lighter palette of pastels covers short chinos, marl sweats and denim. Suits come in printed styles for the bolder shopper or in light chambrays and navy blues for a more commercial slant, alongside a summery take on heritage blazers. 26

Drapers / NOVEMBER 30 2013

Reiss womenswear Like its men’s offer, Reiss womenswear also travels back to the 1950s and 1960s. The retailer cites the French Riviera as inspiration for the collection, which uses a palette of pastels and white. Texture is a strong theme, with a calf hair A-line skirt standing out. Jumpsuits also feature strongly. Reiss is banking on transseasonal pieces, such as an electric blue wool pea coat that could tide customers over if the weather remains unpredictable come spring.


14 offers, with more to follow in next week’s issue

Warehouse Warehouse takes a cleaner direction for spring, with catwalkinspired all-white outfits and asymmetric hems. Florals are a trip, in acid brights and fluoro shades. White cotton, embroideries and cutwork get a modern update – no longer girly and ditsy but cool, crisp and layered to create semi-sheers, mixed with mesh and neoprene fabrics. Sunny evenings inspire a more relaxed look, with palm-tree florals, ethnic paisleys and tribal geometrics covering loose culottes, split-hem maxi dresses and breezy widesleeved jackets.

Karen Millen The Karen Millen womenswear collection has a tougher edge than might be expected for spring. Leather biker jackets and wide-leg trousers come in black, navy and khaki, with punchy details such as cutouts and zips. Jeans feature a boyfriend cut with patchwork elements. Femininity is emphasised via mesh appliqué pieces and delicate lace across skirts and dresses. NOVEMBER 30 2013 /



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Do you prefer buying at trade shows or showrooms?

u Kevin Lonie We normally go to Bread & Butter (pictured) and Jacket Required to get an overview of what brands have on offer, the key trends for the season and a look at new denim brands. We don’t ever place orders there but we take pictures of specific items and follow up later in the showrooms. It’s there that you get a proper look at the collection and an in-depth idea of the brands. You tend to also get a lot more back from the people selling the product, because trade shows can be so rushed.

The panel

KEVIN LONIE Owner of young fashion store Concept Clothing in Aberdeen

JACK SCHNEIDER Assistant menswear buyer at independent Accent Clothing in Leeds

PAUL LOWN Store manager and buyer at menswear retailer Lynx in Harrogate, North Yorkshire

t Jack Schneider I prefer to do our buying in showrooms because there you can get a better feel of what the brand is about. But trade shows are still relevant because they are great when you are looking for something new. We haven't been to any trade shows this year, but next year we will be visiting Jacket Required (pictured) and Pitti Uomo.

u Paul Lown Our preference is to go to Pitti Uomo first. We write orders for smaller brands there, which give us an edge over competitors. Showrooms are great for brands like Woolrich (pictured) or CP Company, but we’ll already have seen them at Pitti so we can ask them for specific items if they don’t have them at the showroom.

ANNE WRIGHT Owner of premium independent Young Ideas in Derbyshire

t Anne Wright As a rule we only visit trade shows sporadically, to keep in touch. We’re always hopeful to find something new but we are usually disappointed. Smaller shows that are selective are more worthwhile for us. We prefer to visit designer showrooms (Paul Smith, pictured) and there are many advantages to them, such as having time to review a collection in depth, see key pieces on models, being able to take time to make a bespoke edit and all in a less hectic environment.

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

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a day in the life Laura Southern

Topman’s buyer for brands and concessions keeps a close eye on online and the shop floor Interview by James Knowles


y alarm goes off at 7.15am but I always snooze until 7.30am. Then I get up and get ready, throw my clothes on – usually oversized sweats with leggings and trainers, I like the androgynous look – and do my make-up and hair before leaving the house. I live in Islington and I catch the tube to Oxford Circus, pick up a coffee from Tap on Wardour Street and then walk to the Arcadia offices. I get in for about 9am and spend at least an hour going through my emails, before sitting down with my team of two – an assistant buyer and a buying assistant – to go over the day’s priorities. I manage 60 brands and concessions across clothing, footwear and accessories at Topman. It is pretty hectic in terms of schedules. My background is in online having come from Asos, so that’s a big focus for me at Topman and I work closely with our online team. Since joining I’ve taken control of the look and feel of the brands on the site, and I managed our first ever branded shoot, which we did in Chinatown.

My day also includes brand appointments, which can either mean them coming into the office or me heading out to see them. I’ve been working a lot on [young fashion brand] Hype, which has done really well since launching with us in November last year, with plans to roll it out to 50 stores. I also work closely with our merchandiser, Natalie Cowan, who is great, and every Tuesday we go down to our Oxford Circus flagship to do a floor walk with the store team and the merchandising team. For lunch I’ll pop out to a sushi place called Abokado, or to Chipotle, a nice little Mexican place. I’ve spent a lot of time with our buying director Phil Cooke going over strategy and reviewing brand performance. Another task is to be on top of online processes, making sure each product has gone live and in the right category. I also have to look ahead at the promo calendar and check delivery schedules so we can do online features around new launches. I started my career on the shop floor at Topman Oxford Circus and didn’t do the traditional university route. I got a temping job with

CV 2013

Buyer, brands and concessions, Topman


Buyer, trend and premium brands, Asos


Assistant buyer, men’s denim and street brands, Asos


Buyer’s assistant, men’s brands department, Asos

Tesco’s buying team before going permanent there. In 2006 I left to join Asos. I love my job at Topman because I was just on clothing at Asos, but now I get to work across categories I’m learning so much. Time management and communication skills are important

because you have to speak to so many departments throughout the day whether it’s design, director level, management, your team, or working with the other buyers. I think it’s about prioritising and understanding the big deals of the day, because you can’t get caught up [in the smaller things]. My day can finish anywhere between 5pm to 7pm, and then in the evenings I like to socialise with my friends at one of the local pubs in Dalston. I’m normally in bed by midnight, I can’t stay out late any more. I have too much to do at work, so I have to be focused. Salaries for this position range from £55,000 to £65,000 (estimate provided by Henry Fox Recruitment) If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email

Supplying and recruiting the highest quality talent in Production and Technical positions

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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

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Fashion Careers AustrAliA

ExEcutivE - CEO, COO, MD, GM and Director roles Buying - Head of Buying, Buying Management and Buying roles MErchandising - Head Of Merchandising, Merchandise Management and Merchandising roles dEsign - Head Of Design, Design Management and Design roles MarkEting - Head of Marketing, Marketing Management EcoMMErcE and digital - Head of Ecommerce and Digital, Ecommerce Management and Ecommerce teams including sEO, Content Managers, social Media etc sourcing and tEchnical - sourcing Management, technical Management, Production & Pattern Cutting roles rEtail - Head of retail Operations Management roles, international and National retail Management, Visual Merchandising

Sales Person Required. An exciting opportunity has arisen for an experienced sales person to help drive the business forward. Must be motivated in developing new business. Jewellery experience not essential. The position will possibly progress to Assistant Manager level. To apply, please visit and search for ‘2655727’

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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior SENIOR ASSISTANT BUYER LONDON, (HEAD OFFICE) – £Competitve We currently have a unique opening for an experienced, self driven Senior Assistant Buyer to join our Home team specifically on the Cookshop department. The cookshop department has been growing over the years with a unique mix of highly branded and own brought products on offer. If you would like to be part of this successful team and want to expand your home experience this is the opportunity for you. Within this role you have work closely with the Buying Manager throughout the full buying process including the continued development of the full ranges, using your strong commercial acumen with the aim of maximising sales and increasing profit potential.

GRAPHIC DESIGNER - CHILDRENSWEAR LONDON, (HEAD OFFICE) – £Competitve Our highly successful Childrenswear department is seeking passionate and talented Graphics Designers  to join our Boyswear Team. Debenhams Childrenswear offer clothing ranges for baby, toddler and teenagers, hence, a creative and diverse eye for graphic design and style is essential. We are currently looking for a Graphic Designer to cover all Boyswear ages. Within Boyswear we cover a range of brands including Baker, Designers at Debenhams and Own Brand so a diverse handwriting is required. You will work closely with the garment Designers and you will have regular one to one meetings with the Design Manager regarding your progress and personal development.





Here at Debenhams we are keen to hear from Womenswear Buyers and Senior Buyers who are interested in joining our buying teams based in our Central London Head Office for positions of the future. We are an exciting business with a mix of core and Designer ranges on offer.  As a Buyer/ Senior Buyer you will work with Merchandising, Design and QA and be responsible for developing ranges to ensure we have all the ‘must have’ pieces in our collection. It is an exciting business with lots of potential and will offer the individual plenty of scope for product development, creative input and career development. We are looking for someone who is commercially minded and who can motivate and manage a team to get excellent results.


GENERAL / TECHNICAL MANAGERS CHINA – Competitive Salary We have a number of excellent opportunities for General / Technical Managers to work for leading suppliers based in China. Based at a home location in China you will travel to various factories across the country troubleshooting any production based issues.  Constant liaison with the UK head office and managing/ facilitating the needs of the internal UK team.  Overseeing sampling, production and sourcing and driving quality at all times.  Bridging the gap between customers and the factories.  You must have a strong commercial and QC background and be extremely comfortable in factory environments.  Previous experience of working in a similar role is essential. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2657493’

APPAREL & ACCESSORIES GRAPHIC DESIGNER LONDON – Excellent Salary based upon experience

Our client is looking to recruit a versatile & creative graphic/print designer to work on boys (baby to older boyswear & potentially with crossover onto men’s) for apparel & accessories.  They are open to experienced designers from a non-clothing background that have developed prints & graphics from concept/trend/scratch & have also worked with licenses, who want to work in fashion.  This is a fantastic opportunity to work with an amazing portfolio of licences including the major studio groups i.e. Disney, Warners, Universal, and DC & Marvel comics and the likes of: Moshi, Angry Birds plus many more. Knowledge & understanding of working with Licenses &/or licensed character design is essential as is highly competent CAD skills i.e. Adobe Creative Suite CS5 (illustrator, photoshop, indesign)

We are currently recruiting a fantastic opportunity for an Established Assistant Merchandiser to join our Homeware Division. One of your key responsibilities as a Assistant Merchandiser will be to support the Merchandiser in the smooth running of the department as well as maximising sales opportunity and profit potential whilst minimising markdown spend. You will also have responsibility for daily figure analysis, future sales and range planning, as well as communicating closely with suppliers in line with the critical path. You will also have responsibility for daily figure analysis, future sales and range planning, as well as communicating closely with suppliers in line with the critical path.


TECHNICAL MANAGER NORTHAMPTONSHIRE – Competitive Salary Our client is a progressive supplier of mens and ladies soft accessories to major high street retailers. They are looking to recruit a Technical Manager to join their business. Ensuring all laboratory procedures are carried out and all factories are properly audited.  Pro active with concept samples, contract seals, rack samples, production samples, through to AQL procedures on the final stock.  Attend all appropriate technical meetings. Manage their in house technical team to improve their technical performance.  You will have extensive technical management experience across garments/accessories. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2660604’

LADIESWEAR DESIGNER – CASUAL LIFESTYLE – HERITAGE BRAND GREATER MANCHESTER – c£25,000 per annum Seeking an accomplished ladieswear / teenwear Designer with strong casualwear handwriting. You will be responsible for managing the look of the brand working with internal teams and offshore sources to create cohesive product in line with trends. A superb opportunity to put your stamp on a globally recognized name in fashion. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2659930’


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SALES ASSISTANT W1 – Competitive Established W1 based Fashion Company seeks a talented sales assistant to join our team. As a major supplier to the UK’s high street retailers, this is an exciting role for a candidate with excellent admin skills and an interest in fashion. The ideal candidate will work well under pressure and be able to prioritise workloads. This is a busy role that will require strong organisational skills and good attention to detail. Minimum of 3 years experience. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2660534’

JUNIOR FASHION GRAPHIC DESIGNER LONDON – Competitive Collective Apparel are a leading high street print supplier of bespoke fashion to the most enviable retailers in the UK. We are looking for a full time Junior Fashion Graphic Designer to join our 26 strong team of young designers in our studio in Surbiton, Surrey (15 minutes train ride from Waterloo – zone 6.) Our expertise is designing and developing prints from the latest trends through innovative skill and an incredible passion to be first to market. The successful candidate will be designing for a leading high street retailer and be developing a strong signature hand writing for the appropriate brand style. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2659071’

SALES MANAGER LONDON – Attractive salary dependant on experience

Established for over ten years, emilyandfin is an internationally recognised British boutique brand combining modern functionality with traditional silhouettes. Boasting understated womenswear collections that feature conversational prints and skilful tailoring, the brand offers a collection of wearable day-tonight pieces every season: occasional dresses, beautifully cut skirts and flattering tops. With stockists based worldwide the brand has been built on hearsay, attracting a large following thanks to its classic style and quirky detailing complimented by quality fabrics. In this new role you will be managing both sales related activities and customer services. You will be working closely with one of the owners and you will be leading your small team as you take and process sales orders.

PRODUCTION CONTROLLER LONDON – Attractive salary dependant on experience In this new role you will be taking control over the production ordering process from start to finish. You will be working within a small team, closely working together with our product developer to ensure that our suppliers have the correct information for production. You will have the opportunity to give input on the collection and will be managing the day to day relationship with our suppliers. You will work closely with the owners, financial and sales colleagues to make sure that you are aware of their requirements and that the deliveries and information flow the business needs to service its customers are the best they can be.



MENS ACCESSORIES BUYER LONDON – £35,000 per annum This is an exciting opportunity for a Buyer to help expand the Menswear offer within Fortnum & Mason in a gentlemen’s club environment. The Buyer will understand Fortnum & Mason’s heritage and the Buyer will also have the ability to add a touch of modernity. Creative strategic skills alongside a good knowledge of Men’s luxury and designer brands coupled with a strong eye for new and emerging talent will be the key for the Buyers success. The Buyer will be fully accountable for the Men’s Accessory buying department activities and to maximise sales, profit and availability whilst minimising stock levels. This to be achieved by the delivery of creative and distinctive ranges which meet and exceed customer expectations.

MAA / ALLOCATOR SOUTH WEST LONDON, KEW GARDENS – Competitive We are currently looking for a Merchandise Admin Assistant / Allocator to sit within the Jigsaw Womenswear Team. This role will form an integral part of the Jigsaw Merchandising Team by effectively and systematically providing accurate information for allocation planning, stock replenishment and trading purposes to ensure stock is directed to stores in the right volumes at the right time to optimise profitability. The ideal candidate will have previous hands on retail experience and strong analytical, numerical and IT skills as well as exceptional team working skills. The candidate must be highly organised and have the ability to prioritise.




KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER SOUTHERN TERRITORY – £Competitive Salary + Car, Benefits & Bonus Timberland is an authentic heritage Outdoor Lifestyle brand with excellent credibility in the marketplace. Our renowned emphasis to drive product that is stylish, that performs and has strong green credentials is paramount to our future success. To drive the brand forward, we’re looking for a self-motivated individual who shares an affinity with our brand values and beliefs and has an in-depth knowledge of the industry. We are looking for someone who is currently in a sales position, ideally working for a lifestyle or sportswear brand. You will drive our apparel growth, working closely not only with our product team in Europe, but also with the country team.



The preeminent lifestyle brand, Lee is one of the most recognisable denim brands on the planet. With a proud history stretching back to 1889, Lee marries authentic heritage with new experiences, attitudes and styles. You’ll be responsible for driving sell through of the brand in a range of key accounts, providing in-store merchandising support and staff training; ensuring sales are maximised, presentation standards are high and store teams are fully conversant with our products. Meeting customers and building long-term relationships will enable you to negotiate key in-store locations and window space as well as provide regular feedback to the sales team on sell through, stock information and competitor activity. 

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Drapers / NOVEMBER 30 2013

t: 0844 544 1108 e:




By Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen H & L Russel Limited Manufacturers of Garment Hangers

Hangers & Display Products

London Studio 020 8808 8157

T: 01245 253 420 E:


“Decades of specialist hanger experience”


Speak with our consultants we can meet all your hanger needs. T: 01268 889000 E: Hanger specialist:

Multi-channel business systems for the apparel industry Wholesale Retail Internet Selling

Redrose Software Ltd T:

0208 123 8280

Manufacturing GARMENT LABELS

Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc


Garment Manufacturer in Bulgaria

Clothing production factory of womenswear and menswear. Provides reliable, professional & flexible services Specialising in T-shirts, S-shirts, Scarves and Real Leather Belts. Versatile manufacturer, very short lead times. Small and big quantities welcome. Oeko-Tex & Sedex certified. Fabric sourcing and design services available. email:’



Due to retirement, small niche ladies Wear manufacturing business for sale. Incorporating wholesale and a Mail Order business.. Huge potential....





Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751


We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377. High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217

Huntley International

Myanmar/Burma granted duty free status by the EU Looking for manufacturing services and would like to take advantage of this new duty free status? Huntley International are a manufacturing company with offices in London, New York, Seoul, Hong Kong and a factory in Myanmar producing ladies/men’s outerwear, suiting and casualwear for major retail companies. Utilising Huntley International will allow you to benefit from these duty free rates, significantly reducing your manufacturing costs.

For more information please contact Howard Lipman or Ronnie Poole:,, Tel 0207 739 0551

PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service? We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts. We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.


07966 171370 NOVEMBER 30 2013

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Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS


LININGS Fabric importers established in 1958

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing

Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more. Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193


Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry. Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

Huma Fabrics

Contact: 07903368616

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: Web: Redundant stocks bought for cash.


Email: UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711

The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.

TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT 0844 800 3630



Page 1

A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it! Visit our transformed website! 16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: W:


Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713


A/C No.





16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E:; W:

Notice board STOCK WANTED


AUTHORISED Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment.


Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376

EARN ££££’s Today

Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email

We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.

Mixed bundles, current or past season collections. No minimum / maximum. Stockroom clearance is our speciality Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you. 01423 872868

Highly Skilled Pattern Cutter With 22 yrs experience. Patterns - Samples - Grading Reliable, Friendly, Efficient Service. Tel: Belinda on 01747 822695


WE BUY...WE SELL... • Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines

caLL noW for immEdiatE action

01923 800074

Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best. Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual. Email: Tel: 0208 886 0494

THE GRADING BUREAU Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs. Childrens, Ladies and Mens. N11 2LX

Tel: 020 8361 1444 38

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Very experienced sample machinist of 18 years seeks part time or freelance work. Contact Ann 07979595711

Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available Tel: 0208 314 5723

The Pattern Room LTD

contact Margaret-Ann email: tel: 0758 367 4411

EXPERIENCED HANDS TO MAKE YOUR SAMPLES AND PATTERNS An efficient and reliable service for your sampling needs


Louise James

Provides reliable, professional & flexible employment as follows: • HOLIDAY COVER • SICKNESS COVER • • MATERNITY COVER • • ADDITIONAL SUPPORT DURING BUSY PERIODS • • UNTIL A PERMANENT ROLE IS FILLED • • FROM 1 DAY TO 6 MONTHS • Tel: 07930 485588 | Email:


Zuppe Clothing Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery. Labels stocked: Zuppe, Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro

and Preppi. Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – Website – DESIGN SOURCING PRODUCTION


PRODUCING EXCELLENT, HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS FOR HIGH STREET RETAILERS Creative in-house Designers working alongside an experienced Quality Control Crew assure the delivery of great products at competitive prices backed up by a very professional Back Office and Administration Team


NOVEMBER 30 2013

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Polly King

She’s cooked with Mary Berry, but building a team has been the icing on the cake for Polly King & Co’s chief executive Words by GRAEME MORAN

Personal picks: (clockwise from left) Sophie Hulme spring 14; Céline; Converse; Sophie Hulme clutch


ell us about Polly King & Co, what do you do? We offer a global sales, marketing and PR service to our brands, with showrooms in London, Paris and New York. My background has always been in-house working at the likes of Maharishi for 10 years and Superfine denim, which means we naturally become an extension of our designers’ studios, working closely with them on range planning and strategy as well as sales and PR. What’s the best thing about your job? Working with great product. And the worst? Living out of a suitcase. What makes a good showroom? Honesty and transparency with brands and buyers. Where do you find your brands? We get approached by designers a lot, it is a job in itself looking through them all. We dedicate set times a month when we sit down and have a review of brands that have approached us and it is an amazing feeling when you see something that you know has all the right elements to work internationally. The whole team is passionate 40

Drapers / NOVEMBER 30 2013

about product and everyone is constantly looking for newness to add to the showrooms. If you could represent one brand, past or present, what would it be? Phoebe Philo is a game changer so it would have to be Céline, which is slightly out of our reach. Did you always want to work in fashion? Yes, straight from being expelled from school aged 15 for nonconforming and having too much of an opinion. If you weren’t doing this, what would you be doing? Before being expelled, I used to assist [The Great British Bake Off judge] Mary Berry with Aga demonstrations after school, so hopefully I would still be working with Mary or even have my own show by now. If you could raid your showroom to fill your personal wardrobe, what would you pick first? From spring 14 my favourite was a Sophie Hulme shirt dress in white cotton, which would obviously be teamed with a Sophie Hulme clutch, Karen Walker sunglasses and Mother of Pearl trainers. Are you a heels or flats woman? What is your favourite pair? The only shoes that have been a constant in my life are Converse hi-tops.

You travel a lot with your job. Where are your favourite destinations? A few months ago I was in Beirut and it is such an incredible city, I wanted to stay longer and explore. I also love Tokyo and I never tire of Paris, which is fortunate owing to the amount of time I spend there. What has been your career highlight? Building the team of people I have around me – everyone from my immediate team to the designers we work with are relentlessly passionate about their work and are ridiculously hard working. Where are your favourite places to shop? Art galleries. Do you prefer shopping online or in store? I prefer in store but usually shop online owing to lack of time. What would we find you doing at the weekend? Recovering from the week. What trend do you wish would disappear? Boyfriend jeans, I blame them for my weight gain. And which do you wish would make a comeback? Champion sweatshirts, best sweatshirts ever with an amazing brand name. For more My Fashion Life interviews visit


Men’s Craghoppers Coverdale Jacket

RRP £160 Equally at home in the country or city our Coverdale Jacket is deceptively technical. The textured flannel face fabric contains both insulated wadding and AquaDry waterproof technology. It has a removable fur trim and a ribbed inner collar to provide unbeatable comfort.

AQUA DRY Guaranteed waterproof and breathable fabric.

Drapers 301113 digilr  
Drapers 301113 digilr  

Digital issue: Drapers November 30 2013