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Shop Direct hires Sarah Curran
My-Wardrobe founder to lead home shopping group’s charge into luxury ecommerce market By Catherine Neilan
My-Wardrobe.com co-founder Sarah Curran has been appointed as a director of Shop Direct, charged with wooing luxury brands to build a roster that can compete with the likes of My-Wardrobe and Net-a-Porter. Curran, who joins on December 16, will work across Shop Direct’s fascias including Very, Littlewoods and Isme, reporting into group retail and strategy director Gareth Jones. Drapers understands Curran’s longer-term responsibilities will include the development of a spin-off luxury fascia, with the working name Very Exclusive. Jones said no decisions had been taken as to the final strategy, saying Curran would be central to that process, although he noted “the adjacencies have to be right, the experience has to be right, it has to work for those brands”. He added: “The experience you need to create for this customer and how you navigate that customer has to be different. In a world of personalisation, fascias and brands aren’t necessarily defined by what URL you type in.” Conversations are already taking
Honoured: Curran (inset), who received an MBE in July, will attract luxury names
place with brands, most of which sit at the high premium or lower luxury levels, drawn from a hit list compiled using Shop Direct’s customer research. Jones said they were “as excited as we are about getting a new customer they wouldn’t normally reach”. Curran’s arrival will help to “have this conversation on a much more balanced footing than someone
trying to bang the door down”, Jones said. He added: “The big difference here – and why [brands] see it as a new opportunity, rather than just stealing market share from My-Wardrobe or Net-a-Porter – is our credit offer, which allows a customer to spread the cost of an expensive handbag or dress interest free over three months. That is a
huge USP and allows us to get to a different customer who doesn’t normally have the money up front to get those products.” Curran is now expected to put together a strategy for the end of the first quarter, although Jones would not be drawn on a date for a potential launch. Brands will be introduced to Shop Direct’s retailers intermittently, joining the likes of recent introductions Radley and Hugo Boss. Other brands set to join the home shopping group include Gant, Paul’s Boutique, Ted Baker and Seven For All Mankind. Curran, who received an MBE this summer for her services to fashion, left My-Wardrobe in July, although she stepped down as chief executive in 2011. She founded the company with her former husband Andrew Curran seven years ago. She said: “When I launched My-Wardrobe back in 2006, my ambition was to democratise luxury by bringing fantastic brands to as wide an audience as possible ... Shop Direct takes that ethos to the next level. “The business offers a fantastic range of aspirational brands and there’s a huge opportunity to do more.”
Fielding Group mulls restructure and job cuts
COVER IMAGE: MATALAN
By Victoria Gallagher
Supplier The Fielding Group has put 34 members of staff into consultation, as it considers a restructure to prepare for future expansion. The consultation at the group, which supplies businesses including John Lewis, Burton, Tesco, Nike, Marks & Spencer and Bolongaro Trevor, is taking place in its offices in Motherwell in Scotland, Manchester and Dunstable in Bedfordshire.
Winter drop: Bolongaro Trevor is among those Fielding Group supplies
In August, investment vehicle Ellestone Apparel acquired a significant stake in The Fielding Group’s holding company Monitane Holdings. At the time it was believed the investment would help the group expand its UK business and manufacturing capacities. Ellestone director Dominic McVey told Drapers: “We are potentially going through a restructure with the group and looking at areas that haven’t performed as well as they should have.”
McVey would not be drawn on which departments were affected, adding that the process would not interrupt orders. He said: “It’s a strongly performing business but areas do need investment and looking at.” Future areas of growth could include international expansion, he added, with schoolwear earmarked as a particular focus. The Fielding Group employs nearly 7,000 people and generates turnover of almost £100m a year. DECEMBER 14 2013 /
New Look updates logo to strengthen identity By Catherine Neilan
Good spot: a spring 14 Fred Perry polo
Fred Perry nabs Gant buying boss
Fred Perry is understood to have appointed Gant buying and merchandising director Ann Marie McDonagh as commercial director. McDonagh, who has spent six years in the role at lifestyle brand Gant, is expected to join Fred Perry early next year. Before Gant, McDonagh held a number of merchandising roles including head of merchandising at womenswear label Ghost, merchandiser at Fenn Wright Manson and international product and merchandising manager at Monsoon Accessorize, where she worked for five years. It is not known if Gant will replace her. The appointment of McDonagh is the latest big hire for Fred Perry after the brand drafted in former Reiss brand director Andy Rogers to the same role in May. Fred Perry, which acquired British quilted jacket brand Lavenham in September, has 20 UK stores. It also has a strong overseas presence with stores in countries such as Brazil, China and Canada. Wholesale stockists include House of Fraser, Debenhams and Very. Both Fred Perry and Gant declined to comment.
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New Look is to unify its branding under a new logo across the entire business, offloading a number of logos that have accumulated over recent years. The refreshed logo will replace at least seven existing logos that are used on labels, hangers and fascias. The new look is already being rolled out and the process is expected to be completed by next March for clothing items, with shop fronts to be refreshed by the end of May. The new visual identity is part of New Look’s move upmarket to pit itself against the likes of Topshop, River Island and Zara, rather than compete with value rival Primark. Chief executive Anders Kristiansen told Drapers the variety of logos made it confusing for shoppers, noting that some of the branding had a lower-end feel. He added: “Moving from several different logos to one will strengthen the identity of the brand and will ensure our fantastic product is instantly recognisable.” New Look is also introducing more top-end items as it develops its ‘good, better, best’ pricing strategy and
Fresh look: old fascia (top) and new logo
moves away from heavy discounting. In its most recent accounts, published last month, the retailer said it had more than halved the number of Sales from 12 in 2012/13 to five this financial year. This week it also emerged that New Look is to form a joint venture in Russia and buy out its franchise partner in Poland, as its new international strategy takes hold. It has also acquired a further six leases in China, on top of the eight revealed by Drapers at the start of October.
Footwear Awards deadline nears Drapers is calling on the best retailers and brands to submit their entries to next year’s Drapers Footwear & Accessories Awards before the deadline on January 31. Recognising the success and achievements of businesses across the sector, the awards will have 14 categories including Growing Retail Business or Brand of the Year, Footwear Designer of the Year, Independent Footwear Retailer of the Year, Multiple Footwear Retailer of the Year, as well as Accessories Brand/Supplier of the Year, Accessories Designer of the Year and the Lifetime Achievement Award. Entry is free, but only the very best will make it to the final judging stage. Eric Musgrave, editorial director at Drapers, said: “Building on the success of both the Independent Awards and the Drapers Awards 2013, we look forward to hosting an even better event in 2014 for this exciting and fast-paced sector.” The winners will be announced during a ceremony at the London Hilton on Park Lane on May 1, 2014. This will be the second year running that Drapers has partnered with the British Footwear Association. For full details and to enter, visit www.drapersfootwearaccessories.com
LIPSY REVEALS LUXE STORE CONCEPT
Young fashion retailer Lipsy has unveiled its new store design, in the Intu Watford shopping centre. The 1,300 sq ft shop is the first to feature Lipsy’s ‘premium and luxe’ concept. The design, by Dalziel + Pow, will be rolled out across new Lipsy stores opening from 2014, although existing branches will not receive the storefit.
Reiss profit to double after autumn surge By Ana Santi
Reiss is on track to more than double its profits in the current financial year after a strong autumn 13 season and the restructure of its senior management team. Founder and chief executive David Reiss told Drapers that like-forlike autumn 13 sales were running at almost 20% above last autumn, while profits at the premium retailer are expected to more than double during the year to January 2014. “We were expecting this because of the infrastructure and changes we put in place [this year],” said Reiss. “Our growth strategy will be achieved with a streamlined team, more defined brand identity, better pricing architecture and new concept stores.” Earlier this year, brand director Andy Rogers and ecommerce director Dan Lumb stepped down from the business after five and two years respectively shortly after the promotion of James Spreckley to creative director. “I am delighted to be working with a creative and brand
Fine outlook: a spring 14 dress
director who fully shares my vision for Reiss,” said Reiss. International expansion will play a key role in Reiss’s strategy for 2014, with four stores set to open in the Philippines and five more concessions in US department store Bloomingdale’s. Reiss told Drapers he was in talks with partners about opening stores in Australia, China and South Africa, and has plans for additional stores in Europe.
The news comes after Reiss reported sales of £113m for the year to January 31, 2013, up from £100m in the same period in 2012, but UK EBITDA fell from £11.2m to £7.2m as a result of investment into overseas markets. Online sales showed “particularly strong growth”. Last month, Reiss unveiled its new store concept in Bluewater and Newcastle, and plans to roll out the concept across key existing stores.
A-Wear winds down HoF concessions By Suzanne Bearne
Troubled Irish womenswear chain A-Wear has begun closing its House of Fraser concessions after the company fell into receivership last month. HoF will continue to stock A-Wear via its nine concessions and online until stock runs out. The department store is understood to be in talks with A-Wear to buy existing stock outright. HoF declined to comment on whether it had made a decision on what brands it would replace its A-Wear concessions with. The move to pull the plug on its concessions business comes less than a year after A-Wear began being stocked at the department store. The deal was part of a wider strategy for the Irish chain to ramp
Winding down: HoF will continue selling A-Wear until stock runs out
up its UK presence. It also operates a wholesale division with accounts including Asos and Zalando. A-Wear had 31 stores across the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, but closed all except four
after entering receivership. In the past week it has reopened a further five or six, and now plans to focus on its Irish retail arm. A spokesman for A-Wear receiver Ken Fennell of Kavanaghfennell said there were no imminent plans to begin trading from its website. “The receiver’s plan is to get a number of the shops open and then sell the business as a going concern,” he said. Earlier this week, HoF reported a 0.8% rise in like-for-like sales for the 13 weeks to October 26, with adjusted EBITDA up to £1.7m from £1.6m. Year-to-date EBITDA has grown marginally to £9.2m, up from £9.1m at the half-year point. See page 6 for more on House of Fraser’s concessions strategy
News in brief Adviser to review Fat Face Fat Face has appointed financial advisory and asset management firm Lazard to conduct a review of its business, ahead of what is thought to be a move to go public. Drapers understands that the lifestyle retailer has employed the firm to look into its capital structure and the best options for its future, although it is not known whether this could lead to a change in ownership. Farrell saved by Dragon Dragons’ Den star Peter Jones has told Drapers he “jumped at the chance” to invest in Farrell, the menswear label set up by Robbie Williams. The entrepreneur has invested a six-figure sum into the company, which went into liquidation in October. Jones said he was reviewing routes to market and is continuing to work with the former Take That singer “to make Farrell a success”. Barratts boss Ziff dismissed Michael Ziff, the long-standing boss of Barratts, has been dismissed along with two other directors as trade buyers circle the beleaguered footwear chain. Administrator Duff & Phelps is believed to have fired Ziff, finance director John Weaving and buying and merchandising director Simon Robson late last week. Sportsman returns to Wolsey Menswear brand Wolsey is relaunching its Sportsman line, which was last available in the 1980s, for autumn 14. The highperformance range comprises 100 styles including T-shirts wholesaling at £14, knits for £30 and jackets for £55, with a 2.8 mark-up. Ciaran Cushnahan is sales manager. M&S boosts Best of British Marks & Spencer has added men’s eveningwear to its Best of British range for autumn 14. The range will debut at M&S’s first catwalk presentation for the line at London Collections: Men on January 6. It will feature more formal suiting and jackets than the previous Best of British menswear range, but like the spring 14 line it will be inspired by the retailer’s archives in Leeds. DECEMBER 14 2013 /
News in brief BLD agency bags brands BLD International Fashion Agency has been appointed as the UK and Ireland sales agent for Caractère and Elena Mirò. The agency will relaunch the brands in January for autumn 14. Italian womenswear label Caractère has a new design team and will also introduce a new young fashion sister line Tèr de Caractère. Plus-size brand Elena Mirò will also launch a capsule collection and a contemporary line. Topshop halts angora sourcing Topshop has become the latest retailer to stop sourcing angora products after animal rights campaigners revealed that rabbits were being abused in Chinese angora farms. The retailer has told suppliers to stop sourcing angora products, although a spokeswoman said it will continue to sell its existing stock of angora items. Clarks appoints chairman Former Burberry president Thomas O’Neill has taken over as chairman of footwear business Clarks. O’Neill, who is already a non-executive director on the Clarks board, started his role on December 6 after leaving jewellery retailer Harry Winston. Abercrombie boss stays on Abercrombie & Fitch chief executive Mike Jeffries has renewed his contract for at least a year, despite shareholders calling for him to be replaced. Jeffries has been blamed by investment firm Engaged Capital for “perennial underperformance”. His new contract is for a $1.5m (£913,000) base salary, with a potential bonus of 300%. The US group reported a 12% drop in revenues to $1.03bn (£640m) in the 13 weeks to November 2. Andrew Jennings joins Myer Karstadt chief executive Andrew Jennings will leave his role at the end of December to join Australian department store chain Myer as senior retail adviser. Jennings joined German retailer Karstadt in 2010 to implement a turnaround strategy. He has previously held top roles at Harrods, House of Fraser and Saks Fifth Avenue. 4
Drapers / December 14 2013
Osborne urged to overhaul rates By Suzanne Bearne & Jill Geoghegan
Independent retailers have welcomed the chancellor’s measures to provide relief for small businesses but warned that a complete overhaul of the business rates system remains critical to the high street’s survival. In last week’s Autumn Statement, George Osborne capped the increase in business rates to 2%, a reduction from a scheduled 3.2% in April, and introduced a £1,000 discount on rates for small shops with a rateable value of up to £50,000. A reform of the system is on the agenda for 2017. Simon Danczuk, Labour mP for rochdale, said the rates cap was “at best underwhelming”. He added: “The system is not fit for purpose and needs a radical overhaul.”
Incentives: rate cuts to fill vacancies
The industry, including the british Independent retailers Association (bira), welcomed the move to provide a 50% discount on business rates to new tenants taking on retail property that has been vacant for 18 months. However,
many claimed that other measures would do little to ease the burden on the high street. George Graham, co-owner of designer retailer Wolf & badger, which has two stores in London, said: “The cap on rates rises is welcome news but will, in reality, have only a tiny impact on the enormous rates bills paid by us and other small retailers. The current system of business rates still unfairly burdens bricks-and-mortar businesses and is in need of complete reform.” Natalie Anderson, owner of women’s footwear and accessories store elisabeth may boutique in St Andrews, Scotland, agreed: “A more substantial plan needs to be implemented to give smaller businesses more breathing space.”
Influx of new overseas customers sends profits soaring at Boohoo By Victoria Gallagher
Young fashion etailer boohoo.com’s rapidly expanding customer base both in the UK and overseas contributed to rocketing profits over the last year. In the year to February 28, revenues rose 132% to £67.3m, up from £29m the year before. Pre-tax profits shot up 1,179% to £3.2m from £249,000. The etailer served more than 1.5 million customers during the year with 35% of sales coming from outside the UK, compared with just 10% over the same period last year. International sales reached £23.5m, up from £2.9m, while boohoo’s UK business also continued to boom with revenues climbing 68% to £43.8m. Joint chief executive mahmud Kamani said: “This growth reflects a massive advance in active customers between February 2012 and a year later. New customers have continued to flock to boohoo during 2013 and [since the financial year end] active customers now total above 2 million, more than double the number 12 months earlier.” Staff numbers also surged, with the business, which launched in
Sitting pretty: Boohoo is aiming to maintain strong sales with its Christmas 13 range
2006, employing 2,010 people as of February 28, compared with 134 at the beginning of the financial year, according to accounts filed at companies House by parent business Wasabi Frog. During the year boohoo invested in infrastructure, IT, customer services and warehouse operations and also completed the acquisition of its distribution centre in burnley. Kamani added: “Our priority is to ensure our customers get what they want: on-trend fashion at value-formoney prices. We will never be
complacent and will continue to go the extra mile in sourcing, designing and delivering the best products.” boohoo’s most recent results follow its announcement last month that it plans to float on the stock market in the first quarter of 2014. It is the latest in a line of retailers to do so, following womenswear chain bonmarché, which debuted on the market in November. House of Fraser and etail business The Hut Group are among the retailers also thought to be planning to float next year.
Karen Millen reins in sales to lift earnings By Victoria Gallagher
Karen millen is attempting to bolster its bottom line with a full-price strategy following a drop in ebITDA over the last year. The womenswear retailer has increased its level of full-price sales for autumn 13, with 97% of the range sold at full price compared with 88% at this time last year. chief financial officer Andrew Ware said: “We have been trying to restrict our promotional activity since the back end of the summer and have resisted the temptation to go into Sale early. We are as optimistic as we can be in the run-up to christmas but it’s a battlefield out there.” The retailer’s anti-discounting strategy will continue into the next calendar year. “We are trying to switch Karen millen from being a high street brand to being a bridge brand,” said Ware. “It is key to our strategy going forward that we do this in all markets and all channels.” Karen millen has created a new logo and introduced more separates over the past 18 months, as it undergoes a refresh amid speculation about a possible management buyout (mbO), led by chief executive mike Shearwood, following the business being spun off from its former parent company Aurora Fashions in 2011. Although Ware could not comment on specific details surrounding the potential mbO, he
Stateside: Karen Millen already has one store in New York, which opened in 2008
said: “We are doing so much at the moment, we are focusing on doing a lot of operational improvements and are very focused on creating shareholder value, whoever those shareholders might be.” This week Karen millen revealed its ebITDA for the year to march 2 had declined to £13.5m from £15m as it invested £2m into “people, processes and technology”. Despite opening 35 stores in the year sales were flat at £260m. The chain has also set out plans for global expansion, with 65% of sales now coming from outside the UK.
Further expansion in Karen millen’s largest markets – the US, middle east and russia – is planned and a flagship store on New York’s Fifth Avenue is scheduled for next spring. It is also looking to open 25 to 30 stores over the next year across Southeast Asia and South America through franchise partners. “In the UK it is about reviewing [stores], we will probably do some refitting and location,” said Ware. “We will inevitably change the shape of the portfolio over time and we will want to have some larger, more experiential stores.”
Linton Tweeds to make its name in Japan Fabric supplier Linton Tweeds is to launch its own womenswear collection for the Japanese market following an increase in demand for its product. The carlisle manufacturer has signed a licensing agreement with Japanese brand house Sanki Shoji to create and distribute a collection under the Linton Tweeds name. The spring 14 range will launch into Sanki Shoji’s Japanese stockists, including 53 department stores, in march.
The debut collection will comprise tweed jackets and coats, leather accessories and cashmere products. It will be priced to sit alongside luxury brands such as chanel, burberry, céline and Lanvin, all of which the tweed manufacturer currently supplies. Linton Tweeds managing director Keith Walker said: “International consumers are looking for the quality and prestige associated with british-made goods.”
Cloth collaborator: Chanel used Linton Tweeds’ fabric in its spring 13 collection
Agents hook up on spiewak and more The Stone Agency and backstage Fashion Agency have launched a partnership via which the british businesses will jointly sell a selection of their brands from autumn 14. Under the banner of Index London, the two will jointly represent US outerwear label Spiewak, which is relaunching into the UK for autumn 14, as well as more than 10 brands already signed to the individual agencies. The Stone Agency will remain the prime agent for heritage brand baracuta, and backstage will represent Italian men’s outerwear label esemplare. The two companies will remain as separate legal entities. Index London will be based in backstage’s showroom at 20 eastcastle Street in London. The Stone Agency owner Kevin Stone said he realised there was a good “commercial fit” between the agencies after renting space in backstage’s London showroom for baracuta.
selfridges men’s sales boss departs Selfridges menswear sales manager Nick Tite will join calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger at the start of next year. Tite will join the brands’ parent company PVH on January 6 in the newly created role of head of full price for the UK. PVH confirmed the move but declined to comment on what his role will encompass. Tite joined the team at Selfridges’ London Oxford Street store in September last year, reporting directly to the deputy store director. before that he spent more than five years at US young fashion brand Abercrombie & Fitch, progressing through the ranks to become a district manager for recruiting, training and operations in the UK. In September two deputy store directors for Selfridges Oxford Street left. The exits follow several earlier this year, the most highprofile of which was director of menswear Anita barr, who gave notice in may to join All Saints. Selfridges did not respond to requests for comment. December 14 2013 /
weak retailers at risk when January bills land By Jill Geoghegan
retailers are being urged to exercise caution next year as insolvency levels could increase 15% in 2014, according to industry experts. Despite improvements in official growth figures, retailers with depleted reserves following the recession could still be left vulnerable as January rent and VAT payments loom. Figures from the centre for retail research show that on average 2,950 companies were declared insolvent each year over the last five years, and the centre predicts this will increase to 3,400 businesses in 2014 when zombie retailers fail to meet rent and VAT payments in January. A zombie company is one that can just about afford to pay the interest payments on its loans, but not the debt itself. Professor Joshua bamfield, director at the centre, said the first three months of the year would be “make or break” for many companies that are “hanging on by their fingernails”.
Bust: Barratts fell into administration this year, but number is set to rise next year
“The number of businesses getting into difficulty between January and march will increase, as those who haven’t had a good christmas won’t be able to manage coming up to rent quarter day. even those making a bit of profit will be in trouble if interest rates on loans rise,” he said. Despite a more optimistic GDP forecast of 2% for 2014, up from
1.5% in 2013, bamfield said retailers still need to be wary. “Although consumer confidence is growing, the predicted market growth for 2014 is nowhere near the 4% growth we were experiencing pre-recession,” he said. Nick Hood, business risk analyst at financial research firm company Watch, agreed, adding that January
would be a testing time for retailers once the reality of the festive trading period becomes apparent. “The key will be seeing how much retailers had to give away for top-line vanity at the cost of bottom-line sanity. The big pressure point will be the end of January when indulgent landlords and banks look for rent and VAT payments they may have waived in the run-up to the festive period.” Hood added: “A period of sustained recovery is often the most dangerous time for zombie and less healthy companies. In a recession, companies burn their reserves and experience a spurt of growth, but additional capital is needed to maintain this. However, the balance sheet is rarely strong enough to raise this capital or convince banks to lend it to them.” In the 10 months up to October 31, 47 large retail companies, classed as those with more than 25 stores, went bust, resulting in 2,469 store closures and 24,940 employees affected.
HoF makes more room for Norr and Apricot By Jill Geoghegan
House of Fraser is to expand Danish multi-brand store concept Norr and british womenswear brand Apricot into further UK stores for spring 14. Norr launched in the UK in four HoF stores in September – manchester, birmingham, Glasgow and Guildford in Surrey – as well as online. Next season will see it rolled out into HoF’s flagship
In black and white: Norr to be expanded 6
Drapers / December 14 2013
Oxford Street branch, as well as cheltenham and Westfield London. each concession measures between 750 sq ft and 1,000 sq ft. Norr is owned by Scandinavian fashion business metropol and in HoF stores it is merchandised with four other metropol womenswear brands: St-martins, Six Ames, Suit Female and S’Nob de Noblesse. HoF buying manager Louise bailey said: “We are really pleased with the initial performance from Norr. It has had a fantastic reaction.” Apricot, which launched concessions in three HoF stores – birmingham, Worcester and Solihull – in November, is being tipped for expansion next year. The department store chain is in discussions with the brand to extend the 650 sq ft concessions into 10 further stores in April. Apricot has 346 concessions in the UK and 10 standalone stores.
Coast’s liverpool store is a laBour of love
Coast has launched a regional customised concept store at the Liverpool One shopping centre. The 2,956 sq ft shop on South John Street features a ‘Liverpool Loves’ wall display as well as increased lighting and music levels to suit the tastes of local shoppers.
Cath Kidston aims to double fashion sales By Jill Geoghegan
cath Kidston is ramping up its fashion output for autumn 14 as it looks to double sales in the division. The retailer is expanding its womenswear collection from 65 pieces for autumn 13 to 117 for autumn 14, and will feature new categories including outerwear and occasionwear. The casual trousers range, which was introduced for spring 14, will also be extended. At present clothing makes up 14% of UK sales, but cath Kidston marketing director Sue chidler said there was the potential to double this over the next couple of years. “We have seen a consistent increase year on year in fashion sales,” she told Drapers. “It’s early days but the extended line could see that figure double.” The popularity of the retailer’s novelty prints has attracted a younger clientele according to chidler and its London flagship store on Piccadilly, which opened on December 5, will become a test bed for the expanding fashion offer. “The mushroom and bird prints sell out as soon as they hit the shopfloor. Having the space to merchandise the clothing and accessories together has really made a difference,” said chidler.
Booting up: Ash is to open a flagship
Late-paying stores are ditched by Ash
Print run: clothing range has helped to attract younger shoppers to the retailer
The 7,000 sq ft Piccadilly store is more than four times cath Kidston’s average UK store size of 1,680 sq ft, and houses its full 65-piece clothing collection for the first time. Founder cath Kidston was also enthusiastic about the opportunities for growth within clothing. “Dresses always do well for us, but it will be great to see customer reaction to our other pieces in store,” she said. “We’ll be able to gauge what sells well here at the flagship and take it from there.” The business plans to open a further five to seven stores in the UK
next year, on top of 50 openings in Japan, South Korea, Singapore, Indonesia and malaysia. At present cath Kidston has 144 stores worldwide, of which 68 are in the UK and republic of Ireland. The flagship opening comes as the retailer is being primed for a £250m sale after private equity owner TA Associates drafted in investment bank UbS to explore options for the retailer. Interest is expected from private equity firms, wealth and pension funds and other retailers. The company declined to comment on the sale.
Premium footwear brand Ash is set to close a number of late-paying accounts as it prepares to open a flagship store in covent Garden later this month. Ash, which has 200 stockists including womenswear indie Sunday best in rawtenstall, Lancashire, my-Wardrobe.com and Asos, will ditch 10 stockists to tighten its cash flow. eddie benisty, founder of Ash distributor Fashion edge, said: “Ash is still doing well but this season has been tougher [than the last]. We have to replace 10 stockists that haven’t been able to pay us.” He declined to name the shops, but said most were in southern england, with three in the North. Ash’s flagship store will open on King Street in covent Garden on December 21. benisty said the company had wanted to be on the premium street for some time. Ash, which has three London shops, is known its sport-inspired footwear such as wedge hi-tops.
International investment dents Mulberry profits By victoria Gallagher
mulberry’s pre-tax profits dipped over the past six months due to international investment and increased seasonality. In its interim results, the luxury british brand reported that in the six months to September 30, pre-tax profits fell from £10m to £7.2m despite sales rising 2.1% to £78.1m. The business said profits had become skewed, with a greater proportion of earnings generated in the second half due to the christmas trading period, plus investment in international expansion.
Cautious buying: Mulberry’s wholesale revenues dropped over the six months
retail sales grew 6% to £49.5m, with like-for-likes up 4%, boosted by international retail revenues, which soared 29%. mulberry’s wholesale business declined 5% to £28.6m, reflecting “cautious ordering” from its european partners. In its statement mulberry said it faced “increased competition from mid-market brands, which has had an impact on sales of entry-price point handbags”. During the period mulberry completed its second UK factory, in Somerset, including the training of 240 new staff.
chief executive bruno Guillon said: “The factory is expected to be at full capacity by mid-2014, allowing us to achieve our target of making 50% of our handbags in england for autumn 14.” mulberry also opened nine international stores during the period and is plotting further overseas expansion, with plans to open 15 stores including a Paris flagship scheduled for 2014/15. beyond mulberry’s reporting period, sales have continued to rise, with retail revenue up 3% for the nine weeks to November 30. December 14 2013 /
HERE & THERE
PUFFA TURNS 40 Jacket brand Puffa celebrated its 40th birthday with a knees-up in Shoreditch’s Translate bar last week. The stellar DJ line-up included band The Vaccines (right), Eddie Piller of Acid Jazz Records and DJ Bootsie. Guests including (above) Angela Farrugia and Daniel Avener from The Licensing Company, who flanked House of Fraser buyers Bethan-Elena Jones and Lindsey Ellis, munched on pies from Mother Mash, gin cocktails from Bulldog and Dark Star ale.
E H T F F O D R O C RoE rties... ple, gossip, pa Pe
PUTTING ON THE STYLE Fashion stylist Nick Ede hosted his annual ‘A Night with Nick’ event at Ink London last week in aid of the Stroke Association. Guests included Towie’s Ferne McCann (pictured above with Ede) as well as designer Amal Fashanu, interior designer Meg Mathews and model Elen Rivas. Ede announced that his Style for Stroke initiative will be collaborating with a host of retailers including Boohoo.com.
VISIT THE AWARDS, WIN AN IPAD MINI At the Drapers Awards last month, Fashion & Retail Personnel ran a competition alongside its sponsorship of the New Supplier of the Year category. Congratulations to Gerald Dawson, marketing and ecommerce director at Long Tall Sally, who won an iPad Mini and is pictured here with Eni Labinotti, marketing assistant at Fashion & Retail Personnel.
CHRISTMAS COMES EARLY AT AQUARETAIL’S PARTY A LITTLE PIECE OF SICILY IN NOTTING HILL Handbag label Meli Melo opened its first flagship store last week on Portobello Road, Notting Hill, and to celebrate creative director Melissa Del Bono hosted a Sicilian-themed Thanksgiving party. Model and DJ Ben Grimes manned the decks, while guests including stylist Bay Garnett (pictured above with Grimes) enjoyed champagne and admired the brand’s range. 8
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
If you were short of a merchandiser on December 3, that’s because they’d all gathered at recruitment firm Aquaretail’s Christmas dinner in London, hosted by managing director Mary Anderson-Ford. Among the guests sipping champagne and scoffing fine Italian cuisine were Internaçionale’s Dorothy Czarnecka, Jacques Vert’s Catherine Penney and House of Fraser’s Amy Turland. GOING TO A GOOD PARTY? Send your photos and gossip to our associate fashion editor firstname.lastname@example.org
I N T E R N A T I O N A L FA S H I O N T R A D E S H O W F a l l— W i n t e r 2 0 14 / 15
Ja n ua ry S T A T I O N – B E R L I N w w w . p r e m i u m e x h i b i t i o n s . c o m
‘Supermarkets continue their nationwide sweep’
eaders of the business pages in recent months could have been forgiven for thinking Tesco was about to go bust. The UK’s largest retailer, with sales of £43.6bn a year in the UK alone, seemed to attract universally positive press in the days of Sir Terry Leahy. Since he retired in 2011, however, his legacy has been questioned as the shine has come off his global creation. Present chief executive Philip Clarke has had a series of challenges to address, such as the costly failure of the Fresh & Easy supermarket adventure in the US, which is reckoned to have cost more than £600m for its six-year life. Drapers readers, however, are more interested in what Tesco is doing with clothes and footwear and I think it is rash to suggest the wheels have come off the Cheshunt-based phenomenon. I recall writing about Tesco’s early ventures away from food in the early 1980s when its offer was presented as Home ’n’ Wear. Impressed as I’ve been by its colossal growth since, especially in the past 15 years, it has never won prizes for picking names and its current F&F moniker is not the most effective. While Tesco and its most obvious rival George at Asda might not be the runaway market leaders they were a few years back – we probably can thank or blame Primark for stealing their market share – these food-based retailers, not forgetting Sainsbury’s Tu here either, are still hugely significant players in UK retail and by extension fashion retail. I was very interested last weekend to read of a report by property agent CBRE revealing
Eric Musgrave Editorial director, Drapers email@example.com
the acreage of new supermarket space due to open in the UK has overtaken the number of proposed shopping centres for the first time. CBRE’s research on the pipeline of grocery stores shows that since the credit crunch hit in 2007, the proposed openings have grown a whopping 67% to more than 48 million sq ft. The amazing figure includes sites for urban convenience stores and for supermarkets that might never be built. The major players in the new race for space include Aldi, Lidl and Waitrose, all of which sell little or no fashion, plus Marks & Spencer, which never merchandises fashion with food. The most interesting point for me of all this is that most of the square footage – almost 40 million sq ft – is earmarked for out-of-town developments. While valiant efforts are being made by any number of agencies to revive ‘the traditional high street’, there is no doubt that for many consumers out-of-town retail parks are the new high street. Speaking with a property boss recently, I was fascinated to learn just how much time, money and expertise is being put
into making the old concept of a retail park, which could crudely be described as a collection of big sheds, into something that is more attractive, more social and more likely to keep more consumers there for longer – the all-important aim of lengthening “the dwell time”. Leisure complexes and food joints, such as cinemas and restaurants, are central planks of this nationwide development. Champions of the classic high street are no doubt aware that their fight for survival or revival won’t be easy. I would not become complacent because of a few bad headlines about Tesco. I was cheered this week, however, that communities secretary Eric Pickles has ordered a review of local councils’ attitudes to high-street parking. But it is all too late for me and my argument with Derby council, which I wrote about a few months ago. After my second challenge against an unfair parking ticket was rejected, I admitted defeat and forked out the £50 fine – an outrageous sum to cover the minute or so between the ticket being issued and me returning to the meter with the change I had to go and find. To end on a happier note, I’d like to remind retailers and brands on both sides of the Irish Sea that the deadline for entries to the Drapers Footwear & Accessories Awards 2014 is January 31. After the success of our separate awards for independents and multiples in November, I am confident our first awards of 2014 will attract a bumper crowd. The prizes will be presented at a black tie dinner at the Hilton London on Park Lane Hotel on May 1, but we need those entries in over the next few weeks. Visit www.drapersfootwearaccessories. com to enter. Good luck!
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DECEMBER 14 2013 /
‘Temporary staff have a long-term impact’
Drapersonline.com stories this week MOST READ Barratts boss Michael Ziff fired as potential buyers circle Paul Marchant leads Drapers Top 100 Jaeger bolsters management team Drapers Top 100 2013 Stock destroyed after Bangladesh clothing factory blaze
MOST COMMENTED Stitch cancels spring show Indies hit where it hurts by multiples’ targeted discounts Cath Kidston plots £250m sale Comment: In any business model the only constant is change
Comments from Drapersonline.com ‘Cath Kidston plots £250m sale’ – So why will anyone buy it? There is not enough extra value. It is overexposed everywhere. Erica Vilkauls ‘Indies hit where it hurts by multiples’ targeted discounts’ – The trade needs turning on its head. We are creating a culture that entices discounts, devaluing stores and brands with diminishing returns. No thought has been given to this by anybody. The whole philosophy has to change. Darren Hoggett Independent retailers suffer the most from the internet. Few have their own ecommerce, many rely on footfall in the high street. It’s doubly painful. Ridiculous parking and travel costs are only acting as a catalyst for the internet, yet local councils won’t help. Anonymous ‘Stitch cancels spring show’ – Stitch was too downmarket. You’ve only got to look how many retailers and brands have traded up over the years to realise what Stitch was doing was wrong and therefore superfluous. We live in an industry that has too many trade shows, so it is important that when one is created, it has its reason for being and offers something either different or much better than currently exists. Anonymous
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
o cope with Christmas demand, many retailers recruit seasonal workers. Amazon UK has hired 15,000, M&S is taking on 12,000 and John Lewis an extra 2,000 staff. Managing this is challenging and the risks of recruiting temporary workers en masse should not be underestimated. Seasonal staff, like permanent employees, must be exceptional, particularly at Christmas, which could be the only time a customer visits the store so is the one opportunity to impress them. Seasonal workers need to understand the organisational culture quickly, including what exceptional service looks like. Highly competent permanent employees should be on hand to lead by example, share knowledge and coach new recruits.
Chief executive of people risk assessment firm Cognisco
One of the risks is the failure to invest in processes including the assessment and training of staff, which can have serious repercussions – it can risk health and safety, alienate customers and damage brand reputation. In November a BBC Panorama investigation found that working conditions in Amazon’s warehouses could be putting workers at risk of “mental and physical illness”. Workers were
shown performing long shifts without a break, under pressure and walking miles to complete orders within set timescales. This shows how standards can be compromised under commercial pressures at this time of year. A poll this month of 5,712 UK shoppers by Retail Eyes, a mystery shopping company, found 92% had left an establishment before making a purchase following poor service. This highlights the need to ensure seasonal workers are fully trained and competent. A common misconception is that seasonal staff don’t warrant the same commitment regarding training and assessment. This can be a huge commercial mistake, both in terms of health and safety and brand reputation. Retailers that understand this will reap the benefits far beyond the festive season.
‘Be creative to keep customers coming back’
t’s that time of year again where we are all scrambling to fill our stores with our bestselling styles, topping up on our big brands, our marketing campaigns are all booked in, Christmas trees in windows and stores are looking the part for the busiest three weeks of the year. The boxes of new exciting stock start to come through the door and we are looking forward to getting full margin on good fresh stock. However, we are then hit with the news that you can find the items elsewhere from bigger stores and online at massive discounts, sometimes of up to 50% off. When a customer comes to the till with a £60 dress showing a website on their phone that has it discounted, what can an independent store do but match
Owner of young fashion indie Chocolate Clothing in Derry, Northern Ireland
the price and complete the sale? It’s the same story every year at this time and it doesn’t seem to be changing. Customers are getting increasingly savvy when it comes to fashion purchases, doing more research than ever online to get the best deal. And who can blame them when at the click of a button you can find the latest discounts, which has been made even easier by the rise of m-commerce.
Unfortunately, to stay competitive and keep your customers happy an independent store has to follow suit with the bigger boys and offer some kind of offer or discount on their product. What we do in the store that works well is, instead of offering a blanket 30% discount, we offer a smaller 10% discount to regular customers and provide great customer service – for example gift wrapping and a free gift such as a pair of socks, gloves, scarves, etc – and the customer really appreciates this and comes back to us time and time again. However, as we move closer to Christmas the discounts usually start to die off from the bigger stores until after the big day, and so for a short while everyone is on full margin and we can all hopefully have a very happy Christmas together.
c o p e n h a g e n i n t e r n at i o n a l fa s h i o n fa i r
fa l l / w i n t e r 2 0 1 4 â€“ 1 5 30 January â€“ 2 february 2014, Bella center, copenhagen c i f f. d k
Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper
ast weekend played host to Small Business Saturday, an initiative driven by Chuka Umunna, the shadow business secretary. The idea originated in the US and came to the UK for the first time this year. The day gave entrepreneurs the chance to promote their products by offering discounts and one-off promotions to consumers in order to encourage them to shop locally. Start-ups were also able to open pop-up shops to showcase their products without incurring the sky-high costs of opening a high street store. This US phenomenon has already raised £3.4bn for small businesses across America, which shows the huge potential for retail entrepreneurs in the UK. And it wasn’t just bricks-and-mortar entrepreneurs that were able to benefit. Etailer Notonthehighstreet.com forecast a 15% increase in visits to its website. Its site provides a platform for hundreds of small, independent designers and suppliers to market and sell their products. Small retailers that are facing tough trading conditions – including high rents and heavy discounting from large chain stores – can use opportunities like these to get their feet off the ground and reach their full potential. A handful of iconic brands have already shown the possibilities for British retail entrepreneurs. For example, Cath Kidston has nearly 200 shops across the UK, Europe and Asia. Founded by its namesake in 1993, 60% of the company was later sold to TA Associates and it has now been announced that it will be put up for sale for more than £250m next year. Cath Kidston is the perfect example of how mighty oaks from little acorns grow. Brands like these not only reveal the innovative nature of British retail, but also highlight the opportunity for entrepreneurs with a unique product offering. However, the ever-changing retail industry means many start-up retailers are still struggling to get their foot in the door. Initiatives like Small Business Saturday, and platforms such as Notonthehighstreet.com, are good starting points to help innovative entrepreneurs reach a much wider audience – and their full potential.
‘A handful of iconic brands have shown the possibilities for British retail entrepreneurs’
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX National UK footfall figures Week 49 – December 2 to 8, 2013
-4% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE
For the fourth consecutive week there is an uplift in shopper activity. The Index saw a week-on-week increase, with Cyber Monday showing a bumper 16.7% rise. This highlights that although this day was the busiest for online traffic, this did not have a negative impact for stores and shopping centres. However, the year-onyear result shows a decline. The year-to-date trend is continuing to report at -3.9%. Northern Ireland was the only region to record a year-on-year increase, up 3.1%.
HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER
Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending December 8, 2013
-6.79% -5.85% Total fashion
Fashion sales were down almost universally with almost 75% of contributors in negative territory. There were no real positive trends of note and consumers holding out for promotional activity had a strong negative effect on like-for-likes. For more information, email firstname.lastname@example.org
The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles
The most applied for jobs 1. Design 7.5% HUDDERSFIELD 55%
2. Merchandising 6.8% 3. Sales 6.7% 4. Production 6.4%
Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)
5. Buying 3.8%
ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES
‘Small firms prove they can do big things’
Inspired by the artwork of Daniele Buetti, with his kind authorization- Photo : G. Defaix
18-20 February 2014 Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte France - premierevision.com Spring Summer 15 / The World’s Premier Fabric Show™ N E W
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Contemporary What’s selling now? WOMEN’S
Jane Bear Owner, Stuff in Ealing, London
Karen Heard Manager, Evolution Clothing in Barnstaple, Devon
“Cashmere is doing extremely well at the moment, particularly the Caroline cashmere tunic dress (retailing at £300). It’s practical and easy to wear. Knitwear brand Dori Premiére (£95 to £150) is also popular. People are drawn to its laid-back look.”
“The country vintage look is popular at the moment. We’re selling a lot of Hackett’s Windowpane jacket (£500). Hackett does great colours, design and fit. We’ve seen an increase in sales of brogues as well – people are looking to wear them with denims and tweed jackets.”
Sally Bundy Owner, Madame Butterfly in Ross-on-Wye, Herefordshire
Trevor Hartley Owner, Hartleys in Guildford
“Yest is selling well, particularly tunics and dresses (up to £50). They are reasonably priced and high quality. People are still very money conscious at the moment. Fransa is also a strong performer.”
Joyce Postlewaite Manager, The Fashion Trunk in Douglas, Isle of Man “Separates from Riani are popular at the moment, particularly the sweaters (£159). Marc Cain separates are also impressing, especially the dresses (£259) as people get ready for the party season. The coats from the Marc Cain range are also big sellers (£335).”
“The biggest-selling items at the moment are outerwear. The Bugatti micro-fibre jackets (£250 to £325) have a great suede look to them and nice style details. The outerwear from a French brand named Benny is also popular.”
John Footitt Menswear buyer, Lester Bowden in Epsom, Surrey
“Tommy Hilfiger has been a good brand for us. The knitwear (£89 to £130), shirting (£79 to £90) and scarves (£49.95) have all been selling. The brand is bringing the younger consumers in but still appeals to the older customer as well.”
Heidi Francis Co-owner, Flint in Lewes, East Sussex
Brian Smith Owner, Leaf Clothing in Newcastle
“Velvet by Graham & Spencer is doing well. This is a collection of easy-to-wear jersey pieces (£95) that are good for layering. Denham is popular too. The jeans are incredibly high quality. Its Elle drop skinny style (£165) is the bestseller.” Bugatti
Louise Wright Owner, Farrago in Heathfield, East Sussex
Neil Harris Assistant manager, Hatters in Norwich
“White Stuff and Seasalt are major sellers, with tops priced at £30 to £40 and £29 to £50, respectively. People like buying cheaper items that are still high quality and they can wear all the time. Mudd & Water is another brand that’s doing well with tops and tunics. It’s mainly tops that are in demand, skirts and trousers aren’t shifting at all.”
“Boss Black is selling for us. Customers are quite brand driven and for such a well-known brand, the price and quality are good. We’ve been selling the shirts (£80 to £110) and knitwear (£110 to £130) in particular. The Diesel jeans (£90 to £110) range has also been selling strongly.”
Sue Turner Owner, Bone Clothing in Lewes, East Sussex
Matt Vince Buyer, Andrew Gardner in Wendover, Buckinghamshire
“Ted Baker accessories are popular because Christmas is coming up so people are buying them as presents. Separates such as tops and knitwear (£99 to £149) are also driving sales for the same reason. Ichi is a slightly cheaper brand that is also selling a lot of separates (£20 to £60).”
“We’ve done extremely well with a knitwear brand named Clark Ross. It does a lovely alpaca knitwear range (£160 to £290). The alpaca wool is lightweight but keeps you warm so you get the best of both worlds. We’ve also done superbly with Mabrun, which does beautiful outerwear.”
Pamela Price Owner, Jessica in Fordingbridge, Hampshire “Party dresses (£230) are doing well from Frank Lyman. NYDJ jeans (£110) are also popular. They’re great quality and comfortable, so are good for everyday wear. Strawberry Bay is another strong performer, with nice tops and woolly jumpers (£40 to £50) that are inexpensive and a popular choice in the cold weather.” 16
/ DECEMBER 14 2013
“Remus Uomo is moving pretty well for us. Its Livino (£199) and Trevano (£189) tweed jackets are still selling. The shirting (from £35) and knitwear (£50 to £65) ranges have been good sellers too. The price points definitely help.”
Rob Evison Manager, Giorgio Reggiani in Derby
“Camel Active has been a good brand for us. It’s a current look that ties in with the country tweed look that is so popular at the moment. The biker jackets (£295), parkas (£295) and jeans (£90 to £110) have all been working. Lagerfeld is another brand that has been strong.”
The Drapers InTervIew I Chris Thomas
Step change With the help of new owner JD, Cloggs boss Chris Thomas wants to position the etailer firmly in middle England Words by Keely StocKer Photography by Ian Macaulay
fter a challenging few years, culminating in administration at the end of 2012, etailer Cloggs is ready to once again make its mark in the footwear market. “We have the product, we have the retail best practice, now we just need to get the brand message across,” is managing director Chris Thomas’s mission statement. Thomas, who took on the role in November 2012, is passionate about building the business into a household name for the “middle england family”. Launched by Thomas’s father russell in 1979 in birmingham, Cloggs was bought out of administration by JD sports Fashion in February this year, although its one bricks-and-mortar store in birmingham’s bullring was subsequently shut down. however, Cloggs is now heading in the right direction, with Thomas firmly believing it is “back on track”, and it returned to the high street by opening its first store under JD’s management on December 7 in shrewsbury. andy hewat, country manager for the UK and republic of ireland at Timberland, shares Thomas’s optimism: “We have dealt with Cloggs over the years and the acquisition by JD will put it in a stronger position in the market and give it a clearer direction. it now knows the customer it is going after.” The shrewsbury store is part of the business’s longer-term strategy to open more shops in high streets in central england. Thomas, who has previously stated ambitions to grow Cloggs to 20 stores within five years, has a clearly defined strategy as to where these stores should be after closing the store in the bullring, where the landlord is hammerson. “i am actually quite bitter about how we were treated there and i would not want to go into a shopping centre again. There was a definite lack of communication and as an indie we didn’t feel supported at all,” Thomas says. he believes that having a presence on the high street is the right direction for the business. “i want Cloggs to become part of the local geography. shrewsbury first and then we have two or three other locations on the hit list for next year.” although Thomas declines to say exactly where these locations are, he does confirm they will be in central england. 18
Drapers / DeCember 14 2013
Thomas didn’t grow up with ambitions to be a retailer; in fact he says he rebelled against it, partly because it is what has father did. russell Thomas set up The oasis in birmingham, which Thomas describes as “a 12,000 sq ft bazaar of shops”. Within this emporium, russell owned two of the 40 stores – indigogo, which sold brands such as Levi’s and Wrangler, and Cloggs, which was set up as a business selling “iconic pieces of footwear with a cult following”. At the time Cloggs stocked brands such as Dr martens, Kickers and New rock boots, and some of these brands can still be found at the retailer today – in particular Dr martens, which Thomas says is one of its bestsellers. it has also added Vans, Timberland and ash. Thomas’s father fell terminally ill in 2001 and Thomas and his brother Nick – who were both working in London, Chris as a trainee accountant and Nick as a strategy consultant for Premium TV (a subsidiary of now-defunct cable TV firm NTL) – went home to birmingham to support their mother and wind up the family business. The brothers decided to take two years out from their careers to do this, but while managing the winding-up process they became actively involved in Cloggs. “We carried on trading with Cloggs to keep us occupied and challenged while we closed the rest of the business down. Then we began to see some traction and it started to grow really quickly,” says Thomas. Cloggs has been online at www.cloggs.co.uk since 1998, and it was this channel where the brothers saw growth. Nick’s experience in ecommerce meant he could implement a search engine optimisation strategy and the brothers put even more product online – albeit not all footwear. “We didn’t actually become a core footwear business until 2008. before that we used to work with traders in The oasis and sell whatever product we could from there on the site,” says Thomas. The challenge at this time was that brands were beginning to launch their own online offerings and tighten brand distribution policies. “We just needed clarity on both sides,” he says. The brothers initially set themselves a target of £1m turnover, which they reached in the
financial year 2003-04 and then went on to set a £20m target. Unfortunately they fell short of this, although Thomas says they made it to £15m by Christmas 2011. Talking of the administration, he says: “We just couldn’t find our place in the market because we hadn’t properly defined who our core customer was or how to portray our brand image.”
Taking stock: Chris Thomas in Cloggs’ Birmingham warehouse
thomAs Adds thAt under JD, these were the first areas to be addressed and as a result Cloggs is now able to move forward. The internal structure of the business has also been adjusted to fit the new approach. “We needed to make it more streamlined and by bringing the whole team of 35 staff under one roof [including the warehouse] we can make a better team environment, as well as quicker decisions,” he says. The product offer on the Cloggs website has also been refocused to appeal to a more upmarket customer, with brands such as barbour, Geox and h by hudson brought on board. at present the product mix is made up of 60% women’s footwear, 35% men’s and 5% kids’, but Thomas says with brands increasingly launching “mini-me” ranges he expects the kids’ offering to expand. Non-executive director andy scott oversees buying but Cloggs has recently hired Kerry Jones as its head buyer. as well as redefining the product mix, Cloggs has also placed a big emphasis on updating the website, which relaunched on a responsive design platform created by ecommerce provider Venda in september. Thomas says the previous website was seeing significant online traffic from mobile and tablet devices, so it needed to be adapted to sell to this audience but with a budget-friendly solution. “We just didn’t have the resource or investment to have a separate mobile proposition and back-end system.” The investment has paid off, and since the relaunch visits on mobile devices have grown 10% and conversion across the channels has increased 40%. Thomas says Cloggs has also seen a shift in customer behaviour, with conversion on tablets now higher than on desktops. With its new shrewsbury store and the online and mobile platforms relaunched, Thomas now wants to create a defined cross-channel Cloggs experience to ensure a consistent customer journey. he wants to bring a digital brochure into Cloggs’ shops with in-store tablets and has been working with developers on an app, which launched this month. The app will eventually include features that will activate Qr codes in store to give customers more product information. Thomas also has ambitions to build a customer loyalty scheme that connects both online and in store, and also suggests Cloggs may consider an offline marketing campaign. With so much in the pipeline, it is clear that Thomas is determined to put Cloggs at the forefront of the footwear market and his ambition, coupled with the backing of JD, looks set to put the retailer firmly back on the route to success. DeCember 14 2013 /
From large department stores to a small shop in a railway station, we look at some of the best store openings from the past few months Words by James Knowles
BarBour InternatIonal St JameS’S Gateway, london
barbour’s first store under its barbour International sub-brand opened on the crown estate’s £500m St James’s Gateway development, between London’s Piccadilly and Jermyn Street, on November 7. The british heritage brand has taken a 10-year lease on the 3,000 sq ft store, which is set over two floors and inspired by the brand’s motorcycling heritage. The store’s offer comprises technical and fashion pieces including jackets, knitwear, trousers, footwear and accessories for men and women, and the barbour Steve mcQueen collection.
rIchard JameS SavIle row, london
Tailor richard James reopened its Savile row shop, which is the largest retail space on the street, on November 18 after a four-and-a-halfmonth refurbishment. The store has been designed by architect Andy martin and is split into two areas – ‘seasonal’ and ‘classic’ – by a translucent screen treated with a dichroic film which varies in colour, luminosity and reflectiveness. The screen acts as a central feature within the store, operating as a backdrop to the collections, and also adds privacy to the classic area and changing rooms. The ceiling features a stretched canvas concealing an adjustable ambient light system, which can be easily changed, reinstalled and decorated.
deBenhamS oxford Street, london
Best of British: Barbour International’s St James’s Gateway store (top) and Richard James’s Savile Row store (above) 20
Drapers / December 14 2013
Debenhams officially unveiled the interior of its new-look Oxford Street flagship store on December 2. As part of the year-long £25m (the interior is also being revamped, at a cost of £15m) revamp Debenhams’ head office and executive staff have vacated the floor above the store and moved into a new office in regent’s Park, adding 20,000 sq ft of selling space to the flagship. reclaiming the top floor has allowed Debenhams to create a stunning central glass atrium which cascades light throughout the store. menswear has moved from the once dark and dated basement to the first floor, women’s has moved up to second, a new designer hall has been created to house the Designers at Debenhams collections, and the basement has been renovated and is now home to lingerie and women’s footwear.
nIcholaS KIrKwood mount Street, london
Footwear designer Nicholas Kirkwood opened a pop-up store at 109 mount Street to mark the launch of his debut men’s collection on October 26. The store is the first to house the designer’s autumn 13 men’s collection in its entirety and will be open for three months until mid-January 2014. Prices start from £465. created by architect mehrnoosh Khadivi, the store features an all-black palette – an evolution of the London collections: men installation that Kirkwood showed in June – with monolithic plinths and two motorlight wall lights.
Smart turnout St PancraS InternatIonal, london
Polished look: clockwise from top left, Debenhams, Nicholas Kirkwood, Smart Turnout and Voisins
voISInS KInG Street, St helIer, JerSey
Jersey department store Voisins’ new White Stuff and Joules concessions opened on October 30, making it the only retailer on the channel Islands to stock the brands. The concessions are based on the 176-year old business’s ground floor in a 4,250 sq ft space previously occupied by HmV. The White Stuff concession features its characteristic design with a countryside feel, and the addition of Joules is intended to appeal to a slightly older demographic.
menswear brand Smart Turnout opened a pop-up on the upper level of London’s St Pancras International station on September 19. Although on the small side because of its setting, the store offers a wide selection from the brand, with accessories such as hand-finished socks and belts, and clothing including sweatshirts, knits, shorts and trousers. The brand’s signature collegiate style is evident inside, where a simple but effective interior features wall-mounted crates, vintage-style miniature ships, drawers and luggage, all used to visually merchandise the product. This is the brand’s second store opening – it has traded in London’s Piccadilly since 2012 – and will be open until February next year. To see more pictures from these stores, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/shopwatch December 14 2013 /
ph. Aldo Fallai
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‘Trade shows are still vital to the industry’ Graeme Moran
Associate fashion editor, Drapers firstname.lastname@example.org
his week’s issue contains our Show Calendar for the autumn 14 buying season and beyond, listing all the noteworthy trade events over the next six months. Come 2014 there will be even more buyer-focused exhibitions taking place across the world, but for the time-poor, cash-strapped buyer, which are worth visiting, if any? Once upon a time it was relatively easy to answer that question because the big-name events pulled in the best brands under one roof. But now a new show crops up each year, brands move around and the quality of certain shows has somewhat waned. Some believe the trade show model no longer works as well as it once did, but I believe they are important. There’s no better way to seek out new brands, foreign labels and fresh offerings, giving your store a point of difference compared with your competitors. You might skip a showroom appointment with a name you’ve never heard of or ignore emails from a brand you think is not right for you, but trade shows always bring surprises. Besides the product, the relationship building and networking opportunities at such events are invaluable, and nowhere else are you surrounded by such numbers of like-minded individuals. Although following the trade show circus across the world from Florence to Berlin and beyond might not be viable, our domestic offering is as good a place as any to start. Big names Pure London and Moda are joined by Scoop and Jacket Required, with new accessories show Detail joining the roster for autumn 14. Hopefully we’ll see you there.
AUTUMN ARRIVES AT DAY BIRGER
Here is a first look at the autumn 14 collection from Scandinavian womenswear brand Day Birger et Mikkelsen. An east meets west theme is dominated by a bold paisley print and ethnic patterns and the brand’s signature embellishments feature as luxurious embroideries on loose shirt dresses, blouses and casual tailored jackets. Wholesale prices range from £20 for T-shirts to £200 for leather jackets. Contact: 00 45 33 89 88 00 www.day.dk
Barney & Taylor reborn
American Vintage accessorises Parisian short-order basics brand American Vintage is launching a full accessories collection for the first time. The range includes backpacks, totes, clutches, wallets and belts in a mix of 100% cow and lamb leather and cotton/linen blends. There is a range of colour options and treatments, with the floral-print leather backpack (pictured) a standout item. Wholesale prices start at £15 for a belt, to £168 for a 100% lamb leather tote bag. Contact: 020 8960 6161 www.americanvintage-store.com
Founded in 1911, Barney & Taylor is one of the UK’s oldest family-owned leather brands, and for autumn 14 the brand is being relaunched with a decidedly more premium direction. Brothers Michael and Richard Arron are fourth generation members of the family and are spearheading the relaunch with jackets and accessories. Top-end leather, suede and shearling are used in timeless outerwear styles, while accessories include bags, wallets, belts, gloves and iPad covers. Wholesale prices for jackets range from £250 to £650, and accessories from £50 to £250. Contact: 0845 241 9119 www.barneyandtaylor.co.uk
WEEKEND OFFENDER TIDIES UP ITS ACT
Autumn 14 sees an overhaul of Weekend Offender’s branding, continuing the label’s move away from logo-heavy pieces. The signature dove logo, which previously appeared throughout the collection, will now only be used on the more premium Category A products, while a new felt patch label brings another high-end touch. Internal labels are more low-key, in cream and navy, while swing tags have a more refined and simple look. www.weekendoffender.com DECEMBER 14 2013 /
SPRING 14 COLLECTIONS
Highlights of the high street
Matalan and Oasis embrace print, Hobbs goes clean and Tesco F&F has a Brazilian vibe Words by GRAEME MORAN
Matalan footwear Under a new design team, Matalan’s footwear offer takes a fresh direction for spring 14. The women’s range is more elegant and trend-focused, with improved quality on fabrics, including a softer leather, but competitive prices. The season’s staple mid-heel pointed court is £12 and strappy flats come in a plethora of colours, with minimalist strappy block heels, cut-out heeled boots and tomboy brogues looking good. The men’s collection focuses more on classic styles, with desert boots, brogues and boat shoes the top styles, starting at £50.
Matalan’s Statements range, which launched for autumn 13, returns with refined wardrobe staples including wide-leg boyfriend jeans, basic button-up safari dresses, a cropped lightweight trench coat, waxed duffle, midi-length skirt and collared silky shirt. Each comes in a variety of colours and prints. The season’s key catwalk trends also feature, with a range of prints including graphic florals, lips and hearts and painterly checks covering separates for matchy-matchy styling. Other key items include a lace sweater, quilted sporty bomber jackets, cocoon-silhouette dresses and fuller mid-length skirts. Pricing has been addressed across the board, with lower entry prices thanks to Matalan buying bigger volumes and narrowing its supply base. 24
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
Matalan menswear The men’s offer from Matalan has plenty of prints, with a nautical direction including anchor patterns and sea creature graphics, alongside tribal-style geometrics and worn-out florals. Summer outerwear looks particularly strong, with quilted bomber jackets alongside colourful waterproofs and a light parka, while chino shorts and trousers are available in 12 shades. Tailoring is also a winning area, with a great slim suit costing only £79. As with womenswear, the Statements line highlights the retailer’s wardrobe staples, including T-shirts, shirts and sweaters in a host of colours, with a washed-out finish proving the most on-trend for spring.
It’s a print and pattern party at Oasis next season, with a garden of floral botanicals and paradise blooms, tribal geometrics and snakeskins. Contrasting prints, patterns and jacquards are mixed to create a head-to-toe mismatched look. Oasis has named spring 14 the season of the skirt, focusing on everything from minis, skaters, asymmetric cuts and maxi shapes, although the A-line midi looks freshest. The texture trend crops up here too, with suede, laser-cut leather, broderie anglaise and sheer panelling providing surface interest.
Following the launch of a refreshed autumn 13 range, Hobbs continues with its new look, pushing a fresher, cleaner and pared-back aesthetic for the Hobbs London mainline. Tomboy tailoring looks crisp, with cropped trousers and single-breast buttons, while simple outerwear and loose dresses take a minimalist slant. Basics get luxed up, as seen on a simple T-shirt reworked in delicate lace, a loose trouser suit in stripy silk or a mid-length A-line skirt in buttery leather. Hobbs’ younger NW3 line continues the sleekness from the main range but with a pop of colour and fun prints. The sports trend dominates, with quilted bomber jackets, drawstring-waist dresses and athletics-inspired bottoms such as wide culottes and track-pant trousers.
F&F menswear, Tesco
Brazilian city Rio de Janeiro inspires a bright and colourful collection at F&F menswear. Washed-out cotton chinos come in pinks and aquas, while more commercial chambraycoloured tailoring focuses on a crisper, slightly slimmer cut. Prints are present and correct, but play into the worn-in and washed-out look of the season. DECEMBER 14 2013 /
THE STYLE COUNCIL
What other independent stores do you admire?
SARAH MURRAY Owner of premium womenswear retailer Jane Davidson in Edinburgh
Sarah Murray I really admire Browns on South Molton Street, London. Like Jane Davidson, it’s a family-run business and long-established. It is always innovative and forward thinking, and has been so successful in branching into other areas such as bridalwear.
PAUL LOWN Buyer at contemporary retailer Lynx in Harrogate
KEITH EWING Owner of premium retailer Number Eight in Stirling, Scotland
p Paul Lown I love Start on Rivington Street, east London. I really admire its suiting; it’s very slick and just really nice. It’s also laid out very well. It has two stores and I just think they are both brilliant.
q Jo Davies There are a few I really admire: Mimi Noor in Bath, Nola in Brighton, Marianna in Ipswich, Morgan Clare in Harrogate, Foundation in Cheltenham and Bernard Boutique (pictured) in Esher. They all know their customer inside-out and fully support other indies. They are run by great ladies too and we’ve become good friends.
JO DAVIES Owner of womenswear boutique Black White Denim in Wilmslow, Cheshire
t Keith Ewing I think Signature in Aberdeen is very focused on its customer. It's stocked some of its brands for a long time and seems to have its finger on the pulse when it comes to the customer. It’s very well-merchandised and has really got the brands right for the market.
WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
18 - 20 FEB. 2014 - PARIS-NORD VILLEPINTE INTERNATIONAL TRIMMINGS AND COMPONENTS SHOW FOR FASHION AND DESIGN
1 9 - 2 1 J A N U A R Y 2 014 S C O O P - IN T E R N AT I O N A L . C O M LONDON Venues: Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Road, SW3 4RY Phillips, Howick Place, SW1P 1BB Image: Maiko Takdea From the project “Atmospheric Reentry” 2013
Capital goods: Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men
Show calendar 2014
Grab your diary and pencil in the dates for next season’s essential trade fairs and catwalks A
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
January 5-7 ACCESSORIES THE SHOW NEW YORK Javits Center, New York 00 1 212 686 4412 www.accessoriestheshow.com M Past exhibitors Bat Ami, Echo Design, Mairs Hair, Pura Vida A
January 5-7 FAME Javits Center, New York 00 1 212 686 4412 www.fameshows.com Past exhibitors Charles Albert,
Chris & Carol, Gracia Fashion, Maison Blanche M W
January 5-7 MODA MANHATTAN Javits Center, New York 00 1 212 686 4412 www.modamanhattan.com Past exhibitors Anni Kuan, Baroni, La Pateau, Zowy W
January 6-8 LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN
Locations around London www.londoncollections.co.uk Exhibitors include Burberry, Christopher Kane, JW Anderson, Topman Design The lowdown Now established as a significant date on the menswear calendar, London Collections: Men (LCM) will draw some of the biggest menswear buyers to the capital with a host of catwalks, presentations and events from big names such as Burberry and Tom Ford, to promising stars of the future including Christopher Shannon and Agi & Sam. LCM’s Designer
Showrooms will this season be split across two locations, with ready-to-wear at The Hospital Club in Covent Garden and accessories at Victoria House in Bloomsbury. M
January 7-8 AGENDA LONG BEACH Long Beach Convention Center, California 00 1 213 223 5111 Exhibitors include Adidas Originals Blue, Billionaire Boys Club, Converse, Quiksilver S
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January 7-10 KE PITTI UOMO DATYE Fortezza da Basso, Florence 00 39 055 36931 www.pittimmagine.com Past exhibitors Allegri, Antony Morato, Bresciani, Caruso, Circle of Gentlemen, Eden Park, Eton Shirts The lowdown Fly to Florence for the most comprehensive menswear show in the calendar, ranging from the sharpest tailoring through to directional labels and commercial winners. Despite an overlap in dates with LCM, buyers will still flood into the Italian city. This season’s guest designer slot is being filled by Diesel Black Gold, under the new creative directorship of Andreas Melbostad.
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
January 12-14 TRANSIT California Market Center, Los Angeles 00 1 213 630 3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com Exhibitors include BCBG Max Azria, Desigual, Jeffrey Campbell, Rocket Dog, Superga F
January 14-15 CAPSULE BERLIN Postbahnhof, Berlin 00 1 212 206 8310 www.capsuleshow.com Past exhibitors April77, Hartford, Lazy Oaf, Obey, Maharishi, Royal Elastics, Wood Wood
January 11-13 WHITE MILANO Via Tortona, Milan 00 39 02 34592785 www.whiteshow.it Past exhibitors 360Sweater, Blood, Concept, Majo, Pretty Ballerinas, Soho de Luxe
January 14-16 KE BREAD & BUTTER DATYE Tempelhof Airport, Berlin 00 49 30 20 00 370 www.breadandbutter.com Exhibitors include Baracuta, Barbour International, Chunk, Denham, Glamorous, Lyle & Scott, Nigel Cabourn, Prps, Voi Jeans The lowdown Despite the news of a few brands, including G-Star and Superdry, pulling out of this season’s edition, the party is still going in Berlin, with Bread & Butter’s vast spectrum of streetwear, sportswear and strong denim offer attracting buyers from around the world. This is the biggest of the German shows; many buyers split their time between B&B and the city’s other events.
January 11-14 EXPO RIVA SCHUH Riva del Garda, Italy 00 39 04 64520000 www.exporivaschuh.it Past exhibitors Ambur Shoes, Footside, Hersent, Relax Footwear F
January 11-14 MILAN MEN’S FASHION WEEK Venues across Milan 00 39 02 7771081 www.cameramoda.it Past exhibitors Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Marc Jacobs, Prada
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
January 12-14 TOP DRAWER Earls Court, London 020 7384 7735 www.topdrawer.co.uk Exhibitors include Albany Square, Attic Textiles, British Tags, Girls & Pearls, Salt
January 7-10 PITTI W_WOMAN PRECOLLECTION Fortezza da Basso, Florence 00 39 055 36931 www.pittimmagine.com Past exhibitors Alter Ego, Fabio Rusconi, Maison Kitsuné, Souve, Wyld Love
January 12-14 SELECT California Market Center, Los Angeles 00 1 213 630 3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com
Past exhibitors Boutique 9, Minnie Rose, Will and Fame
Tasty fashion bites: Bread & Butter Berlin
M W A
Florence fixture: Pitti Uomo
January 14-16 FOCUS California Market Center, Los Angeles 00 1 213 630 3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com Past exhibitors Jeffrey Campbell, Guess by Marciano, LA Class, Pucker Clothing, Rampage M W F A
PITTI IMMAGINE 2014 PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO
07 10 JANUARY 2014 17 20 JUNe 2014 FIReNZe
PITTI IMMAGINE W
07 10 JANUARY 2014 17 20 JUNe 2014 FIReNZe
PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO
16 18 JANUARY 2014 26 28 JUNe 2014 FIReNZe
PITTI IMMAGINE FILATI
22 24 JANUARY 2014 02 04 JULY 2014 FIReNZe
22 24 FeBRUARY 2014 20 22 SePTeMBeR 2014
A PROJeCT OF PITTI IMMAGINe AND FIeRA MILANO
T +39 055 36931 F +39 055 3693200
ph.Michele De Andreis e-paint+design.Alessandro Gori.Laboratorium mmxiii
08 10 MARCH 2014 FIReNZe
23 25 MAY 2014 21 23 NOVeMBeR 2014 FIReNZe
12 14 SePTeMBeR 2014 FIReNZe
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
January 14-16 KE PANORAMA BERLIN DATYE Berlin ExpoCenter Airport 00 49 30 20 88 91 340 www.panorama-berlin.com Past exhibitors Betty Barclay, Luisa Cerano, Marc Cain, Pretty Green, Steilmann, Yaya The lowdown A relative newcomer on the Berlin trade show scene, Panorama offers something different to the rest of the city’s events. Sleek and smoothly run, the fair is attracting more and more big-name brands and visitors. Although located outside of the city centre, free shuttles run throughout the day. M W F
January 14-16 PREMIUM AND PREMIUM MEN Station, Berlin 00 49 30 629 0850 www.premiumexhibitions.com Past exhibitors Diesel Black Gold, Falke, Guess, J Brand, Orlebar Brown, Paul & Joe, Unconditional M W
January 14-16 KE SEEK DATYE Kühlhaus, Berlin 00 49 30 62 90 85 11 www.seekexhibitions.com Past exhibitors Blood Brother, Common People, Farah Vintage, Hannibal, Sandqvist, YMC The lowdown While relativity tiny compared with its near neighbour Bread & Butter, Seek makes up for it in terms of the quality of brands and buyers it attracts. A mix of new labels and growing hero brands, it’s well worth scheduling some time at Seek, which is adjacent to Premium. M W F
On parade: Givenchy at Paris Men’s Fashion Week
January 14-16 SHOW & ORDER Kraftwerk Berlin Mitte, Berlin 00 49 21 174 95 96 90 www.showandorder.de Past exhibitors Jerome Dreyfuss, Love Moschino, M Missoni, Tibi New York
January 15-17 BRIGHT Brunnenstrasse, Berlin 00 49 69 669 621 57 www.brighttradeshow.com Past exhibitors Adsdict, Crooks & Castles, DC Shoes, Ecko Unltd, O’Neill footwear, Sin Star, Vans
January 14-19 BERLIN FASHION WEEK Locations around Berlin 00 49 30 88 92 28 90 www.fashion-week-berlin.com Past exhibitors Basler, Dietrich Emter, Hugo by Hugo Boss, Patrick Mohr, Zoe Ona M W
Quality time: Seek in Berlin
January 15-19 PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK Various locations in Paris 00 33 1 42 66 64 44 www.modeaparis.com Past exhibitors Ann Demeulemeester, Carven, Mugler, Paul Smith, Valentino DECEMBER 14 2013 /
11.12.13 february 2014 portello fieramilanocity
Textile and Accessory top-end collections for womenswear and menswear
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
Past exhibitors Adidas Slvr, Dickies 1922, Earnest Sewn, K-Swiss, Paige Denim, Schott NYC M W F
January 22-23 AGENDA NEW YORK Mercer Street, New York 00 1 213 223 5111 agendashow.com Exhibitors include Bellfield, Hudson Outerwear, Levi’s, Skullcandy, Stussy, WeSC M S
January 22-23 THE LONDON TEXTILE FAIR Business Design Centre, Islington 020 8347 8145 www.thelondontextilefair.co.uk Exhibitors include Dutel Creation, Hainsworth, Limonta, Tessuti Tents moment: Project New York
January 16-18 PITTI BIMBO Fortezza da Basso, Florence 00 39 05 53 69 31 www.pittimmagine.com Past exhibitors Cacharel, Crocs, Fendi, Monnalisa, Petit Bateau K
January 17-19 BIG WHEEL Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai 00 91 981020 4297 www.indiafashionforum.co.in Exhibitors include Levi’s, Jack & Jones, Puma, Smiley M W
Exhibitors include Christian Lacroix, Goat, Hoss Intropia, Mademoiselle Tara by Tara Jarman, Matthew Williamson The lowdown Chelsea’s elegant Saatchi Gallery and the nearby Phillips exhibition space are taken over by womenswear brands from around the world, ensuring Scoop International pulls in the buyers. Be sure to save enough time to get around both locations in search of new gems displayed around the galleries. W F
January 20-23 PARIS HAUTE COUTURE Carrousel du Louvre, Paris 00 33 1 42 66 64 66 www.modeaparis.com Past exhibitors Chanel, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Martin Margiela, Valentino W
January 21-23 PROJECT NEW YORK Pier 94, New York 00 1 212 759 8055 www.magiconline.com
January 22-24 PITTI FILATI Fortezza da Basso, Florence 00 39 055 3693238 www.pittimmagine.com Past exhibitors Botto Poala, Pinori Group, Selçuk Iplik, Woolmark T
January 24-27 ECLAT DE MODE-BIJORHCA Porte de Versailles, Paris 00 33 1 47 56 52 82 www.bijorhca.com Past exhibitors Danielle Vroemen, Marie Duvert, Rosa Mendez J Material world: The London Textile Fair
January 18-20 KE TRANOÏ HOMME DATYE Palais de la Bourse, Paris 00 33 1 53 01 84 90 www.tranoi.com Past exhibitors Aimo Richly, Eleven Paris, Klasica, Lucieblanche, Simeon Farrar, Yukio Mishiba The lowdown The French capital’s men’s fashion week draws in the crowds and many hop to Tranoï to check out its interesting mix of contemporary and denim ranges. It’s good for more directional labels. M
January 19-21 KE SCOOP DATYE INTERNATIONAL Saatchi Gallery and Phillips exhibition space, London www.scoop-international.com
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4 -6 FEBRUARY 14 I N T E R N A T I O N A L
F A B R I C
T R A D E
F A I R
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
January 25-27 INNATAX 33 Messecenter Rhein-Main, Hofheim, Germany 00 49 0 6122 72 101 www.innatex.muveo.de Past exhibitors Áine Knitwear, Ekotree, Funny Girl, Komodo, Little Green Radicals
Kidding around: Bubble London
January 25-27 INTERFILIÈRE Porte de Versailles, Paris 00 33 1 47 56 32 32 www.interfiliere.com Past exhibitors Bel Maille, Cap Sud, Interlinge Intimates T
January 25-27 MODE CITY 00 33 1 47 56 32 01 Porte de Versailles, Paris www.lingerie-swimwear-paris.com Past exhibitors Arianna, Esprit, Lily Gipsy, Mimi Holliday, Panache, Wacoal, What Katie Did L
January 25-27 PLAYTIME PARIS Parc Floral de Paris, Paris 00 33 1 43 72 75 37 www.playtimeparis.com Past exhibitors Antik Batik, Baby Alpaga, Easy Peasy, Little Cube, Pop Cutie Accessories, Veja
Exhibitors include American Retro, Bench, Blank, Julie Brandt, Marc Cain, Orla Kiely, SuperTrash, Swildens, Vero Moda The lowdown The first of the larger womenswear trade shows on the calendar, Parisian event Who’s Next pulls in buyers from all over Europe with its mix of strong brands and fun, laid-back atmosphere. Known for its womenswear offer, smart buyers also take time to peruse the accessories areas, while menswear and a dedicated up-and-coming brands area are also worth visiting.
Young at heart: Playtime Paris
January 25-27 SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE Porte de Versailles, Paris 00 33 1 47 56 32 33 www.lingerie-swimwear-paris.com Exhibitors include Banana Moon, Chantelle, Elle Macpherson Intimates, Passionata
M W F
January 26-27 BUBBLE LONDON Business Design Centre, Islington 01484 846069 www.bubblelondon.com Past exhibitors Bamboo Baby, Merry Berries, Mini A Ture, Poppy, Rachel Riley, Week-End à la Mer
January 25-27 TRANOÏ PREVIEW Garage Turenne, Paris 00 30 1 53 01 84 90 www.tranoipreview.com Past exhibitors American Retro, Clover Canyon, Harris Wharf London, Paul & Joe Sister
January 25-28 WHO’S NEXT PARIS Porte de Versailles, Paris 00 33 1 40 13 74 83 www.whosnext.com
KE DATYE Kidding around: Bubble London
January 26-28 MRKET NEW YORK Javits Center, New York 00 1 212 710 7414 www.mrketshow.com Past exhibitors Barbour, Enzo, Loudmouth, Marco Valentino, Michael Kors, Viyella M
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Scandinavian hunting ground: Gallery
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
January 26-29 ISpO MunIch Messe München, Munich 00 49 89 949 20155 www.ispo.com Exhibitors include Adidas eyewear, bench, billabong, Lowe Alpine, Sprayway S
January 28-30 InDX MenSwear (FOrMerly aIMeX) Cranmore Park, Solihull 0121 683 1434 www.indxshow.co.uk Past exhibitors brook Taverner, Fulton, Fynch-Hatton, richard James, Skopes, Tootal, Weird Fish M
January 29-31 Gallery Forum Copenhagen 00 45 33 12 09 30 www.gallery.dk Exhibitors include Ann-Sofie back, bruuns bazaar, Dansk, Henrik Vibskov, Stella Forest, Swedish Hasbeens, Woolrich M W F
January 29-31 VISIOn Lokomotivværkstedet, Copenhagen 00 45 39 64 85 86 www.cphvision.dk Past exhibitors boxfresh, Dr Denim, Hunter, Keds, One Green elephant, Twist & Tango W
Sports club: ISPO Munich
Drapers / December 14 2013
READY TO WEAR AUTUMN / WINTER â€˜14 purelondon.com/register Quote priority code: PURE31
Felt and wool coat - Almost Famous, Quilted leather jacket - Urban Code, Leather skirt - Almost Famous
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
February 5-6 JACKET REQUIRED N LOCAEW TION The Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, London 07904 509173 www.jacket-required.com Past exhibitors Billionaire Boys Club, Common People, Makia The lowdown A new east London location and increase in exhibitors means the autumn 14 edition of Jacket Required promises to be even bigger and better. Praised for its well-edited and curated brand mix, it pulls in a who’s who of buying teams.
Women’s institute: Pure London
January 29-February 2 COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK Copenhagen City Hall 00 45 70 20 30 68 www.copenhagenfashionweek.com Past exhibitors Bruuns Bazaar, Ecco, Gestuz, Henrik Vibskov, Margit Brandt, Sand, Stine Goya M W F
January 30-February 2 COPENHAGEN INTERNATIONAL FASHION FAIR (CIFF) Bella Center, Copenhagen 00 45 32 47 21 13 www.ciff.dk Past exhibitors Angels Never Die, Copenhagen Luxe, Freya, Geox M W K
February 1-6 CPD SIGNATURES The Gallery, Düsseldorf 00 49 211 4396423 www.cpd-signatures.com Past exhibitors Himalaya, Miss Fuego, Nelly Johansson, Oska
020 7728 4267 www.springfair.com Exhibitors include Bagzone, Crabtree & Evelyn, Girls & Pearls, Lola Rose Jewellery A
February 3-9 STOCKHOLM FASHION WEEK Berns, Stockholm 00 46 70 209 3057 www.mercedesbenzfashionweek.se Past exhibitors Cheap Monday, Dagmar, J Lindeberg, Tiger of Sweden W
February 4-6 MUNICH FABRIC START Munich Order Center, Munich 00 49 89 4522470
www.munichfabricstart.com Exhibitors include Baron Textile, Hackenberg, Mudpie, Peggy Mill
February 6-13 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK Lincoln Center, New York www.mbfashionweek.com Exhibitors include Calvin Klein Collection, DKNY, Jenny Packham, Lacoste, Marc by Marc Jacobs M W
February 5-6 NE DETAIL SHOW W Crypt on the Green, London www.detail-london.com Exhibitors include Drake’s London, London Undercover, Pendleton, Oxford Socks The lowdown Detail is a new show focusing on men’s accessories and lifestyle products such as homeware and cycling equipment. Running at the same time as Jacket Required, Detail will attract a good selection of buyers from top men’s stores.
February 9-11 KE PURE LONDON DATYE Olympia, London 020 3033 2015 www.purelondon.com Exhibitors include Almost Famous, Emily and Fin, Little Mistress, Nancy Dee, Nougat, Ravel The lowdown Pure London offers an unrivalled womenswear selection including forward- and short-order clothing labels alongside footwear and accessories. Autumn 14 will be Pure’s 35th edition, and promises a tempting array of events and not-to-be-missed catwalk presentations and business seminars.
Textile hub: Munich Fabric Start
February 2-4 LONDON EDGE National Hall, Olympia, London 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com Past exhibitors Anti Hero, Fourstar, Lowlife of London, Swallows & Daggers S
February 2-6 SPRING FAIR INTERNATIONAL NEC, Birmingham
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22nd-4 nd-4 tthh F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4 PUNK. ROCK. RETRO. VINTAGE. STREET. MUSIC MERCH. REGISTER NOW: www.londonedge.com NATIONAL HALL, OLYMPIA, HAMMERSMITH ROAD, LONDON, W14. TRADE BUYERS ONLY Exhibiting Information: email@example.com or call +44 (0) 1162 898 249. General Show / Buyer Information: www.londonedge.com / firstname.lastname@example.org
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
February 9-10 NE PLATFORM SHOW W The Westbury Hotel, London www.platformldn.co.uk Exhibitors include Audley, Camper, J Shoes, TF Slack
Hot ticket: Burberry Prorsum at London Fashion Week
February 11-13 MILANO UNICA Fieramilanocity, Milan 00 39 02 66 101 105 www.milanounica.it Exhibitors include Botto Fila, E Thomas, Loro Piana, Vivolo T
February 12-13 INDX WOMENSWEAR & FOOTWEAR Cranmore Place, Solihull 0121 683 1434 www.indxshow.co.uk Exhibitors include Esprit, Moshulu, Mint, Pomodoro, Yumi W F
February 14-16 MOMAD METROPOLIS Feria de Madrid, Madrid 00 34 91 722 30 00 www.simm.ifema.es Past exhibitors Jack & Jones, Luisa Spagnoli, Ted Baker, Vero Moda M W F
February 14-18 THE EXHIBITION AT LONDON FASHION WEEK Somerset House, London 020 7759 1963 www.londonfashionweek.co.uk Past exhibitors Felder Felder, Palmer//Harding, Sister by Sibling M W A
February 14-18 LONDON FASHION WEEK Somerset House, London, and venues across the city 0870 112 9088 www.londonfashionweek.co.uk Past exhibitors Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou, Paul Smith, Tom Ford W
February 16-17 AIS INDEPENDENT KIDS Cranmore Park, Solihull 0121 683 1415 www.independentkids.co.uk Past exhibitors French Connection, Pretty Originals K
u DECEMBER 14 2013 /
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
February 16-18 CRAFT, HOBBY & STITCH NEC, Birmingham 01425 272711 www.chsi.co.uk Exhibitors include Bead Time, The Hobby House, Marvic Fabrics, Stylecraft T
February 16-18 KE MODA DATYE NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Past exhibitors Animal, Duck and Cover, Farah, Gant, James Lakeland, Out of Xile The lowdown With menswear, womenswear, accessories, lingerie and swimwear all under one roof, Moda is the UK’s largest trade event outside of London. The show, which focuses on mainstream fashion, also boasts the largest footwear offer of the domestic shows, so expect to see buyers out in force. M W F
Searching for jewels: Accessories The Show
February 17-20 SOURCING AT MAGIC Las Vegas Convention Center 00 1 310 857 7500 www.magiconline.com Past exhibitors Chinatex, Motion Textile, SGIA, Vapor Apparel
February 17-19 ACCESSORIES THE SHOW The Venetian Hotel, Las Vegas 00 1 212 686 4412 www.accessoriestheshow.com Past exhibitors An Old Soul, Eco Opulence, Saint Vintage Designs
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February 17-20 TEXWORLD Le Bourget, Paris 00 33 1 55 26 89 89 www.texworld.messefrankfurt.com Past exhibitors Chikuma, Cotton Council International, Five Textile, Horizon Exports, JC Pozitif, Sheentex
February 17-19 AGENDA LAS VEGAS Sands Expo Center, Las Vegas 00 1 213 223 5111 agendashow.com Exhibitors include Entity, G-Shock, Hurley, Vans M W A
February 17-19 MRKET LAS VEGAS The Venetian Hotel, Las Vegas 00 1 203 853 6015 www.mrketshow.com Past exhibitors Ben Walker, Bernard Zins, Café Bleu, Without Prejudice
February 17-20 WSA@MAGIC Las Vegas Convention Center 00 1 310 857 7656 www.magiconline.com Exhibitors include Bamboo, Deer Stags 902, Ferro Aldo, Fratelli, Jacobies, Rays, Stella, Wild Rose
February 17-20 APPARELSOURCING PARIS Le Bourget, Paris 00 33 1 55 26 89 89 www.apparelsourcing.messefrankfurt. com Past exhibitors Beyond Garments, Clothmen, Silk Appeal, Tex Apparel T 44
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
Mainstream attraction: Moda in Birmingham
February 18-20 ASIA APPAREL EXPO Messe Berlin, Berlin 00 49 85 23 58 69 688 www.asiaapparelexpo.com Past exhibitors ANP Apparel, Global Outerwear, I-Source International M W A K
email@example.com - 01274 623 080
Lectra Fashion Solutions
Designďż˝I Product Development I PLM I Production
Create. Connect. Control.
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
February 22-24 MI MILANO PRÊT-À-PORTER Fieramilanocity, Milan 00 39 02 49 97 66 05 www.mimilanopretaporter. fieramilano.it Past exhibitors Beatrice B, Love & Love, Morgano, Snow Secret
Gold standard: Dolce & Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week
February 25-27 THE HUB Asiaworld Expo, Hong Kong 00 33 1 43 72 75 37 thehub.hk Past exhibitors Chester Barrie, Desigual, Evisu, Swims, Yamane M
February 18-20 EXPOFIL Parc des Expositions, Paris 020 7250 0589 www.expofil.com Past exhibitors Buhler Quality, Hufau, Lenzing Fibers, Mitsubishi Rayon, Nef T
February 18-20 FN PLATFORM Las Vegas Convention Center 00 1 310 857 7656 www.magiconline.com Exhibitors include Derek Lam, Diane von Furstenberg, Birkenstock, Hush Puppies, Steve Madden, Wanderlust, F
February 18-20 MAGIC MARKET WEEK Las Vegas Convention Center and Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas 0877 554 4834 www.magiconline.com Past exhibitors Alpha Industries, Ben Sherman, G-Star, Michael Kors, Swarovski Elements M W A K S
February 18-20 MODAMONT Paris-Nord Villepinte, Paris 00 33 1 70 38 70 20 modamont.com Past exhibitors Astor, Junior Hagen, Kokolo, SKA Italia T
The lowdown The major date in the global textile diary, Première Vision will kick-start the spring 15 season, as designers and brands descend on Paris in search of textile trends and innovations. This vast show hosts more than 700 mills and manufacturers under one roof. T
February 18-20 PROJECT LAS VEGAS Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas 00 1 218 740 7092 project.magiconline.com Past exhibitors J Brand, Pendleton, Scotch & Soda, Sperry Top-Sider, Stone Island, Wildfox M W A K
February 25-27 PLAYTIME TOKYO Belle Salle Shibuya Garden, Tokyo 00 33 1 43 72 75 37 www.playtimetokyo.com Past exhibitors Crayon Rocks, Junk Food, Mummymoon, Petit Bateau K
February 25-28 COLLECTION PREMIERE MOSCOW (CPM) Expo Centre Fairgrounds, Moscow 00 49 0211 43 96 01 www.cpm-moscow.com Past exhibitors Avalon, Bench, Diesel, Fossil, Guess Jeans, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger M W K
February 25-March 5 PARIS FASHION WEEK Venues across Paris 00 33 1 42 66 64 44 www.modeaparis.com Past exhibitors Balenciaga, Chanel, Stella McCartney, Louis Vuitton W
February 18-20 INDIGO Parc des Expositions, Paris 020 7250 0589 www.indigo-salon.com Past exhibitors Bay & Brown, Eye Dazzler, Mint Design, Running Stitch, Superstudio T
February 18-20 POOL Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas 00 1 310 857 7675 www.pooltradeshow.com Past exhibitors Blue Bird Apparel, Gumball Poodle, Maiden Voyage Clothing Co, Solid Threads
February 18- 20 ZOOM BY FATEX Paris-Nord Villepinte, Paris 00 33 1 47 56 32 32 www.zoombyfatex.com Past exhibitors Axelle Shoes, Heavy Knitting, Mustang, Supertex Tunisie T
M W F
February 18-20 LE CUIR A PARIS Parc des Expositions, Paris 00 33 1 43 59 05 69 www.lecuiraparis.com Past exhibitors Atlantic Leather, Pellican, Pistolesi, Trendintex, Unique Tanning T
February 18-20 KE PREMIÈRE VISION DATYE Parc des Expositions, Paris 00 33 4 72 60 45 49 www.premierevision.com Past exhibitors Alan Litman, Baruche Superfine Cottons, Dragoni, Neill Johnstone
February 28-March 3 PARIS SUR MODE Jardin des Tuileries, Paris 00 33 1 40 13 74 83 www.parissurmode.com Exhibitors include Antik Batik, Asu Aksu, Hotel Particulier, Not Shy, Sessun, Stella Forest W
February 18-23 MILAN FASHION WEEK Locations around Milan 00 39 02 77 71 081 www.milanfashionweek.com Past exhibitors Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Gucci, Prada, Versace, Roberto Cavalli W
February 28-March 3 PREMIERE CLASSE Jardin des Tuileries, Paris 00 33 1 40 13 74 83 www.premiere-classe.com Past exhibitors A Cuckoo Moment, Les Inséperables, Tatty Devine A
u DECEMBER 14 2013 /
FEB 9th & 10th 2014 Westbury Gallery. No.41Conduit St. London W1S 2AF
AUDLEY AVRIL GAU ANAID KUPURI BEYOND SKIN C.DOUX COCLICO CHIE MIHARA J SHOES LALIL LOLA CRUZ MEGUMI OCHI RAS TF SLACK ZINDA plus more.....
For further info contact: E: firstname.lastname@example.org T: 02077040860 www.platformldn.co.uk
LONDON始S SHOE EVENT High Street Distribution Drapers Advert 187x127mm AdvertsNEW 2 & 3_Layout 1 25/11/2013 10:08 Page 1
We offer brands and retailers an alternative garment distribution service that seamlessly links production to High Streets throughout the UK and Europe. With our strategically located hubs and a robust pan European garment transport network, we are well placed to deliver a fast and reliable customer focused distribution solution that provides complete peace of mind.
A UK collection and delivery service you can rely on
Tel: 0800 083 0089 Email: email@example.com Website: www.highstreet-distribution.co.uk
February 28-March 3 TrAnoï FeMMe Venues across Paris 00 33 1 53 01 84 90 www.tranoi.com Past exhibitors American Retro, Dark Level, Yifang Wan
Accessories Footwear Homeware Jewellery Kidswear Lingerie Menswear
March 26-28 Texbridge CNR Expo, Istanbul 00 90 212 465 74 74 www.cnrtexbridge.com Past exhibitors Avantgard, Fit Italy, Isko, Sinateks Tekstil
Big on footwear: GDS in Düsseldorf and Micam in Milan
March 2-5 MiCAM Fieramilano, Milan 00 39 02 43 82 91 www.micamonline.com Past exhibitors Anaki, Fat Company, Gabor, Prophecy, Rachel Zoe, Ruby Shoo F
March 26-29 ChiC beijing New China International Exhibition Centre, Beijing 00 86 10 65 05 32 07 www.chiconline.com.cn Past exhibitors Gabor, Rossi, Sarah Pacini, Wild Strawberry M W K A
March 2-5 MiPel Fieramilano, Milan 00 39 02 58 45 11 www.mipel.com Past exhibitors Agata, Desalai, mood Indigo, Roi Style
March 31-April 2 FAshion ACCess Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre 0852 2827 6211 www.fashionaccess.aplf.com Exhibitors include Akhesa, Ballet Rouge, Pinko Industry, SaSa Design, Stephanie Classic
March 5-6 TexTile ForuM One Marylebone, London 07802 501913 www.textileforum.co.uk Past exhibitors Acorn Fabrics, GH Leathers, Liberty Art Fabrics
March 5-7 novoMAniA Shanghai Mart, Shanghai 00 86 21 61 57 39 49 www.novomania.com.cn Past exhibitors Fly London, Izabel London, La Petit Prince, mango
oTher dATes For your diAry
March 8-10 PlAyTiMe new york 23 Wall Street, New York 00 1 212 563 7301 www.playtimenewyork.com Exhibitors include A For Apple, Everbloom Studio, Frank & Lu, Honeyami, Tootsa macGinty K
March 11-14 globAl shoes Messe Düsseldorf, Düsseldorf 00 49 21 14 56 04 48 www.globalshoes-online.com Exhibitors include Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Barli Shoes, French Sole, Josef Seibel, Padders, Rieker
May 11-13 Pulse Earls Court, London 020 7384 7737 www.pulse-london.com Past exhibitors Azuni, Bertie Girl, Eclectic Shock, Johnstons of Elgin, Tatty Devine, Tessuti
March 12-14 gds Messe Düsseldorf, Düsseldorf 00 49 02 11 45 60 996 www.gds-online.com Exhibitors include French Connection, G-Star Footwear, John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli F
March 16-18 kensingTon shoe evenT Kensington Close Hotel, London 020 7937 7618 www.thekensingtonshoeevent.co.uk Exhibitors include Armand Basi, Cara London, Bourne, Lewis Ford
March 16-17 oFF-PriCe show Olympia Exhibition Centre, London 020 8771 3555 www.offpriceshow.co.uk Exhibitors include Amazone, Eles Clothing, missiko, Q Clothing, TheWholesaler.co.uk
March 16-19 lA FAshion MArkeT California Market Center, Los Angeles 00 1 213 630 3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com Exhibitors include Ben Sherman, Blu Pepper, Original Penguin, Patti Bergstrom, Papillion Blanc
M W A K
M W K H
january 27 Retail Trust Ball, Grosvenor House, London january 30 drapers 30 under 30 dinner, London February 14 Valentine’s Day February 25 drapers digital Forum, Waldorf Hilton, London March 30 Mother’s Day April 10 drapers next generation Academy, 30 Euston Square, London April 18 Good Friday April 21 Easter Monday May 1 drapers Footwear & Accessories Awards dinner, Hilton Park Lane, London May 5 Bank holiday May 15 Bira annual conference, Cotswold Water Park May 22 The Contour Ball, The Dorchester, London May 26 Bank holiday
u DECEmBER 14 2013 /
HO EXC AV TE LUS AI L R I V LA AT E BL ES E
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Europe’s No1 Creative Craft Trade Show
for the Art, Craft, Fabric, Needlecraft & Hobby Industries
16-18 February 2014 NEC Birmingham UK
• Network directly with over 250 companies and their representatives • Meet the industry’s newcomers in the Bright Sparks Pavilion • FREE Product Presentation and Demonstration Area • Excellent Business Seminar Programme • Exclusive Show Offers! • Over 100 national and international media attendees • Immediate Media’s Annual Champagne Awards • Over 100 hours of Workshop Education • Itch to Stitch Demonstration Area sponsored by Madeira Threads • Catwalk Fashion Show
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www.chsi.co.uk or call us now on 01425 272711
Connecting Global Competence
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A to Z A Accessories The Show February 17-19 p44 Accessories The Show New York January 5-7 p29 Agenda Las Vegas February 17-19 p44 Agenda Long Beach January 7-8 p29 Agenda New York January 22-23 p35 AIS Independent Kids February 16-17 p43 Apparelsourcing Paris February 17-20 p44 Asia Apparel Expo February 18-20 p44
B Berlin Fashion Week January 14-19 p33
Best of Britannia TBC Big Wheel January 17-19 p35 The Brandery TBC Bread & Butter January 14-16 p30 Bright January 15-17 p33 Bubble London January 26-27 p37 C Capsule Berlin January 14-15 p30 Chic Beijing March 26-29 p49 Collection Premiere Moscow February 25-28 p47 Copenhagen Fashion Week January 29-February 2 p41 Copenhagen International Fashion Fair January 30-February 2 p41 CPD Signatures February 1-6 p41 Craft, Hobby & Stitch February 16-18 p44 D Detail February 5-6 p41 E Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca January 24-27 p35 The Exhibition at London Fashion Week February 14-18 p43 Expo Riva Schuh January 11-14 p30 Expofil February 18-20 p47 F Fame January 5-7 p29 Fashion Access March 31-April 2 p49 FN Platform February 18-20 p47 Focus January 14-16 p30
Platform February 9-10 p43 Playtime New York March 8-10 p49 Playtime Paris January 25-27 p37 Playtime Tokyo February 25-27 p47 Pool February 18-20 p47 Premiere Classe February 28-March 3 p47 Première Vision February 18-20 p47 Split level: Kenzo at Paris Men’s Fashion Week
G Gallery January 29-31 p38 GDS March 12-14 p49 Global Shoes March 11-14 p49 H The Hub February 25-27 p47 I Indigo February 18-20 p47 INDX Menswear January 28-30 p38
INDX Womenswear & Footwear February 12-13 p43 Innatax 33 January 25-27 p37 Interfilière January 25-27 p37 ISPO Munich January 26-29 p38 J Jacket Required February 5-6 p41 K Kensington Shoe Event March 16-18 p49 L LA Fashion Market March 16-19 p49 Le Cuir a Paris February 18-20 p47 London Collections: Men January 6-8 p29 London Edge February 2-4 p41 London Fashion Week February 14-18 p43 The London Textile Fair January 22-23 p35 M Magic Market Week February 18-20 p47 Margin TBC
Mi Milano Pret-a-Porter February 22-24 p47 Micam March 2-5 p49 Milan Fashion Week February 18-23 p47 Milan Men’s Fashion Week January 11-14 p30 Milano Unica February 11-13 p43 Mipel March 2-5 p49 Moda February 16-18 p44 Moda Manhattan January 5-7 p29 ModAmont February 18-20 p47 Mode City January 25-27 p37 Momad Metropolis February 14-16 p43
MRket Las Vegas February 17-19 p44 MRket New York January 26-28 p37 Munich Fabric Start February 4-6 p41 N New York Fashion Week February 6-13 p43 Novomania March 5-7 p49 O Off-Price Show March 16-17 p49 P Panorama Berlin January 14-16 p33 Paris Haute Couture January 20-23 p35 Paris Fashion Week February 25-March 5 p47 Paris Men’s Fashion Week January 15-19 p33 Paris Sur Mode February 28-March 3 p47 Pitti Bimbo January 16-18 p35 Pitti Filati January 22-24 p35 Pitti Uomo January 7-10 p30 Pitti W_Woman Precollection January 7-10 p30
Premium and Premium Men January 14-16 p33 Project Las Vegas February 18-20 p47 Project New York January 21-23 p35
Pulse May 11-13 p49 Pure London February 9-11 p41 S S London TBC Salon International de la Lingerie January 25-27 p37 Scoop International January 19-21 p35 Seek January 14-16 p33 Select January 12-14 p30 Show & Order January 14-16 p33 Sourcing at Magic February 17-20 p44 Spring Fair International February 2-6 p41 Stockholm Fashion Week February 3-9 p41 T Texbridge March 26-28 p49 Textile Forum March 5-6 p49 Texworld February 17-20 p44 Top Drawer January 12-14 p30 Tranoï Femme February 28March 3 p49 Tranoï Homme January 18-20 p35 Tranoï Preview January 25-27 p37 Transit January 12-14 p30 V Vision January 29-31 p38 W White Milano January 11-13 p30 Who’s Next Paris January 25-28 p37 WSA@Magic February 17-20 p44 Z Zoom by Fatex February 18-20 p47 DECEMBER 14 2013 /
187-127_SIL.pdf 1 02/12/2013 16:50:36
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How I got here Kinsie Sidolle
TCA Showroom’s senior sales and marketing manager has seen the agency rapidly expand Words by james knowles
What does your diary look like today? First thing at 8.45am I’ll have a quick coffee before checking the emails that were sent to me overnight. Then at 9.30am I’ll have a meeting with the team to catch up on the events of the past few days when I was out of the office visiting clients. Next I’ll be working on the selling strategy for autumn 14, before a one-to-one meeting with Isabella Sferrazza, brand manager of Italian womenswear label Silvian Heach, to organise the agenda of the sales meeting taking place in Naples. In the afternoon I have an appointment with a buyer who is coming to view the pre-autumn collection from our Danish womenswear brand coster copenhagen. What meeting are you most looking forward to today? The buying appointment with Angela baffari, from womenswear indie Tonic on London’s Fulham road, for the summer party and preautumn coster copenhagen collections. Appointments with buyers are what I enjoy the most. What task do you wish you could postpone? Sending back all the samples. I don’t like seeing the showroom half-empty and I have the girls coming every half hour to tell me they need more boxes! Although our sample Sale for buyers, friends and family was a success, we still have lots of things to pack. The showroom is getting refurbished next week so we need to make sure it’s all empty soon. How did you get to where you are today? I’m from France originally but I graduated from bournemouth University in 2006, and I decided to live in madrid after
getting a job in an events company. my heart has always been in fashion though, and I always knew I would work in this field. I then got a job as a sales agent and quickly became sales and marketing manager at Lingerie Showroom in madrid. I worked there while doing freelance styling at weekends, which has always been a passion. I moved on to become manager of emerging designers showroom and boutique Speed & bacon in madrid, before I finally decided to leave Spain to come to the UK in January 2012. It was then that I started working as the sales and marketing manager for TcA. When I joined TcA, I was managing the sales of four brands. It was a lot less hectic. Nowadays, TcA Showroom has grown to be one of the top fashion wholesale agencies in the UK and we’ve expanded. Now we have 10 top european womenswear brands. What has been your career highlight? The autumn 13 season. TcA has grown so much since I started. We are on the way to becoming the top UK fashion agency. We have a great mix of european womenswear brands and we deal with very good boutiques such as Tonic in Fulham, Havetolove in Newcastle, and bigger stores such as Fenwick and Psyche in middlesbrough. It’s so good to see that hard work pays off. I was recently promoted to senior sales manager. Who is your mentor? I have a few, but my father Andre Sidolle is the person who inspires me the most. He was a pastor but has been retired for five years. He’s the most hard-working person I’ve ever met.
The dictionary is the only place where success comes before work. Hard work is the price we must pay for success cV 2012
Sales and marketing manager, womenswear, tCA Showroom
Sales manager, Speed & Bacon, Madrid
Sales and marketing manager, Lingerie Showroom, Madrid
Events manager, Xspandus, Madrid
Graduated MA in European tourism management, Bournemouth University
What’s the best piece of advice he’s given you? He’s always told me to find a job you love, because you will never have to work a day in your life. And he was completely right. He also showed me that hard work always pays off eventually and to fight for what I want.
How do you see your career progressing? I see my career progressing at TcA as I really enjoy working in the company, so for a few more years I hope to stay here. I’m lucky to work in an amazing place and be surrounded by great people, so I wouldn’t change this for anything right now. However, as I’m not originally from the UK I might want to go back to France in a few years’ time and maybe become an international sales manager, or go to the other side of the fence and become a buyer. What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? The dictionary is the only place where success comes before work. Hard work is the price we must pay for success. You can get where you want if you really work hard for it and always believe in it. Salaries for this position range from £35,000 to £60,000 (estimate by Freedom Recruitment) If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email firstname.lastname@example.org December 14 2013 /
APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior
SPECIALISTS IN TECHNICAL ROLES FOR THE CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR INDUSTRIES Active Apparel Recruitment is a niche recruitment consultancy specialising in technical roles within the clothing and footwear industries. Our mission is to provide a honest, open and professional service, helping our candidates to secure the best next step in their career and our clients with the very best fit of candidate. Pattern Cutters- European fashion retailer is looking to recruit talented Pattern Cutters who are specialists in ladieswear, menswear, or childrenswear, to help the technical team push forward with continuing improvements to the fit and quality of their clothing ranges. Excellent salary / benefits / relocation package. Footwear Technologist - This unique urban brand is looking for an experienced Footwear Technologist to join the team working across mens and womens footwear. A great opportunity to progress you career within this hugely successful and continually growing organisation. Garment Technologists- We are currently recruiting for a number of Garment Tech roles with brands and retailers in the UK and Europe. Please get in touch as soon as possible for more information on roles across womenswear, menswear and childrenswear. To find out more about these and our other current roles, please email with your CV to email@example.com or call 01422 845 945.
Scout retail FASHION RECRUITMENT
Scout is a small boutique agency specialising in traditional and service led recruitment to the fashion and retail industry. We are industry experts in recruiting the best people for small to medium sized brands, retailers and specialist suppliers. If you are looking to recruit â€œWe promiseâ€? to help you in every possible way, we pride ourselves in putting forward the best possible candidates.
23-27 Kings Terrace, Camden, London, NW1 OJP T 0207 874 1908 E firstname.lastname@example.org
RetailJewellerjobs.com is the No. 1 site to start your search for the perfect job in jewellery. Whether you are just starting your career or are an experienced jewellery professional, we will have the right jewellery job for you. Please visit www.retailjewellerjobs.com for the latest opportunities in the Jewellery and watch industries.
To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 Freya.Lucas@EMAP.com 56
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST - KNITWEAR LONDON – competitive package
Our client is looking for a seasoned individual to join the company working as their knitwear Technologist. The role includes but is not limited to: Manage the design process related to garment breakdown information in order for samples to be made on time, within cost and to agreed time frames. Attend both internal and external fit meetings as required to maintain the critical path. Complete the full spectrum of knitwear garment development to include technical specifications for the manufacturing unit, critical path management, customer liaison and any quality checks required. The successful candidate will have high levels of interpersonal and communication skills, as the role will involve regular contact with colleagues in the UK and abroad.
SENIOR INVENTORY PLANNER ST HELIER JERSEY – £ attractive salary and benefits package
We have an exciting new opportunity for a Senior Inventory Planner to join a global organisation with a presence in US, UK, Europe and Australia. You will be managing internal wholesale & website inventory for the UK / European business whilst also creating & implementing enhanced inventory management policies & procedures. You will also be expected to manage open-to-buy, item-level forecasting, assortment planning & appropriate inventory levels. To be considered for this role you must have 5+ year’s inventory planning experience in apparel, footwear or accessories & the ability to create & implement new procedures/policies while also demonstrating a track record of proficiency with Microsoft Office suite, including advanced Excel skills to facilitate data analysis & critical problem solving.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2660732’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661156’
HEAD OF SALES APAC (ASIA PACIFIC) – DESIGNER FOOTWEAR BRAND UP TO £85,000 BASIC LONDON – £80,000 - £85,000 per annum bonus + benefits This is a designer footwear brand that has a longstanding history and has become a household name globally due to rapid growth and demand across all regions. This brand covers mens, womens and kids and so the target market range is varied. Due to expansion, this newly created position has become available to cover the APAC territory. You will have previous international experience within a luxury brand, ideally have relationships within the designated territory or with the ability to grow an international business.
CREATIVE PATTERN CUTTER – LADIESWEAR MIDLANDS – Excellent This iconic fashion business has an incredible opportunity on offer for a senior level Creative Pattern Cutter. With the ability to cut first patterns from designers sketches and amend for production, you will have creative flair and accuracy across woven and jerseywear, to include tailoring and knits. This is a role in a million and not to be missed! GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2660857’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2659970’
COMPLIANCE OFFICER NOTTINGHAMSHIRE – Salary is dependant on experience Our client is one of the largest garment manufacturers and importers of formal/casual menswear & ladieswear. They have an exciting opportunity for a Compliance Officer to join their team. You will visit off shore manufacturing locations in order to build relationships with local compliance managers and ensure the company systems and procedures are being implemented. You must have a minimum of 1 years experience in a similar role or placement year during a technical degree and an awareness of the latest ETI base code as well as local legislation and regulations.
GENERAL MANAGER SRI LANKA – Competitive Salary Package Our client is a leading sourcing operation with a global presence. They have an excellent opportunity for a General Manager to join their operation in Sri Lanka. You will implement business strategies and lead category teams to deliver the right products on time and at the right cost. Identifying and developing key suppliers and ensuring shipment budgets, critical KPI’s and cost budgets are met. The successful candidate must have a minimum of 10 years experience in sourcing or buying garments and be an excellent leader with a strong UK customer focus.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2662089’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2660780’
SENIOR MANAGER APPAREL SUSTAINABILITY GERMANY – £Excellent
This is a one year contract to work with an international business and to take responsibility for initiating and managing new sustainability projects within the area of apparel and fabrications. To create and develop innovative sustainability concepts. Continuous market and technical research and evaluation. This position will suit a person who has in depth technical apparel and textile experience along with a sound awareness of environmental issues impact relating to the production and lifecycle of a garment. Great communication skills and attention to detail are required along with a good sustainability awareness.
ACCOUNT MANAGERS – FASHION & ACCESSORIES LONDON, SURREY, MIDLANDS – £excellent We have several positions within Account Management with global brands on the wholesale side and with UK suppliers to the high street, across women’s and men’s gifts, footwear, eyewear (sunglasses & optical), soft accessories, home and apparel . You must have a background in fashion or accessories and have experience in managing and driving existing accounts as well as opening new customer accounts. This position will suit an enthusiastic and motivated individual who is hands on and who enjoys working to targets.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2662225’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2662230’
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Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
WOMANSWEAR SALES REPRESENTATIVE NATIONWIDE – £ competitive + car + benefits
An exciting opportunity has arisen with this Iconic heritage outerwear brand. To promote and sell to existing accounts nationally in the UK and be responsible for developing and creating new business. Working closely with the Sales Manager you will develop a sales plan for the territory investigating all relevant new clients. We are looking for someone with experience in the luxury womanswear wholesale sales environment with proven results. You will be ambitious, self motivated, results driven and have excellent communication skills to be able to establish solid relationships with customers. The role will involve travel throughout the UK and London showroom with some International trade show attendance required.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661441’
SENIOR CATEGORY DEVELOPER & SAMPLE ROOM MANAGER SUNDERLAND, TYNE AND WEAR – Very attractive + excellent benefits
Berghaus is already the UK leading outdoor clothing and equipment brand with ambitious growth plans around the world. At this exciting time, we are looking to recruit a talented individual to join our Product Development team based Sunderland, Tyne and Wear. Reporting to the Global Creative your brief will be to strategically develop the sample facility, core development documents and communication of these in line with our business ambitions. Take ownership for the timely development of all products, for specific categories, markets and end users, from design, to fit and product specification approval. You will ensure both cost and manufacturing viability for all products in conjunction with ensuring the products stay at the forefront of innovation. You will lead your category and team to champion change and process development, driving appropriate behaviours in line with Berghaus HR directives. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661853’
PORTAL CONTENT EDITOR FINCHLEY, NORTH LONDON – Very attractive + excellent benefits + bonus
This role supports the business with sourcing and developing content for a global portal, assisting the site owner and editors with page creation as well as on-going maintenance and knowledge transfer. Responsibilities: Collecting, developing and modifying content for the portal delivery, including copy, imagery and video. Dealing with editing requests. Assisting with and delivering training to content editors and owners. Establishing best practise standards for digital content. Must have skills: Deep understanding of delivering web based content. Experience with web content management systems. A good understanding of CSS and HTML development. Competent with Adobe CS5 and Adobe Photoshop. Microsoft Sharepoint Skills (nice to have).
JUNIOR FABRIC MANAGER (MATERNITY COVER) W1F 9QS – 26,000 to 28,000 Pro Rata plus Benefits
Aquascutum is a globally recognised British luxury brand for menswear, womenswear, sportswear and accessories. The brand celebrates all the hallmarks of British fashion heritage through exquisite attention to detail, traditional craftsmanship and a commitment to authenticity that has seen it create timeless and classic clothing over the years. Reporting to the Heads of Design, the successful candidate will secure a role which is both challenging and rewarding. This role is suitable for an individual who is a strong self-starter, used to working closely with design and buying departments, and able to work in an organised manner. This role is to aid the Heads of Design with the fabric and trim requirements for menswear and womenswear design, and the buying and product development team with system information, deliveries and stock.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2662057’ SALES EXECUTIVE LONDON SE11 4UE – Dependant on experience
London-born boutique label, Louche specialises in trend aware womenswear fashion with a unique and independent edge. We are searching for a creative and innovative Sales Executive to join our dynamic team, who can further develop the success of Louche and push the growth of our valuable customer base. We are set to expand our wholesale accounts throughout the UK, Europe and on to America and Japan, from leading department stores to edgy independents. The successful candidate will be driven by exceptional customer service and the development of strong relationships. Day-today the role will be based in London, though travel both nationally and internationally to attend trade shows and client meetings is required.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661852’
BUYING AND MERCHANDISING TEAM OPPORTUNITIES OFFICES OVERLOOKING THE SEA IN FALMOUTH, CORNWALL – TBC We have opportunities at Assistant Buyer and Buyer levels and are interested to talk to people with Head Office Buying team experience and training who are keen to join an exciting brand in Cornwall. Primary aims of the roles are to: work closely within Buying team and with Merchandising to achieve, and aim to exceed, the agreed sales and profit targets. To work closely with Merchandising, Design and Technical teams to support/ create the season’s range. To manage/work within an effective and timely product sign off process, appropriate for product lead time as per the Buying Calendar. To adhere strictly to the Critical Path.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2662136’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661511’
ACCOUNT MANAGER - WHOLESALE DIVISION MANCHESTER CITY CENTRE – Competitive with benefits
KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER BASED IN/NEAR MANCHESTER – Competitive with benefits
This role is focused on managing our impressive list of key accounts to drive sales turnover and margin, while developing customer relationships through meetings and visits. The ideal candidate will have experience in bringing new accounts on board and will be able to identify how to target and profile new accounts in order for the company to make the best commercial decisions. Applicants must be commercially aware and proactive with outstanding communication skills and a strong background in Account Management, preferably within fashion accessories. Excellent time management skills are essential, and the ideal candidate will be a strategic thinker who can spot opportunities and maximise them.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661402’
Role: To be the key contact both internally and externally in the management of the product cycle from design through to delivery. Key responsibilities: Build and maintain ongoing relationships with all customers and internal teams. Develop each customer account to become its preferred supplier. Hold product development and trend meetings with the customers to excite them with new product. Maximise opportunities with each account, maintaining profitability and increasing margin. Effective product development and sourcing to get the right product for the right customer at the right price point. Liaise and work with all internal/external departments to ensure the smooth flow of the products design to delivery life cycle. Record analyse and report on sales and forecast sales.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2660926’
Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox DECEMBER 14 2013
SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 email@example.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
In Store Products and Services EPOS
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Drapers Ads 2012A_Layout 1 30/01/2012
To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@EMAP.com 0800 45 11 22 morplan.com 60
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
“We believe that we help retailers serve customers to world class standards”
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Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email firstname.lastname@example.org Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk
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Clothing production factory of womenswear and menswear. Provides reliable, professional & flexible services Specialising in T-shirts, S-shirts, Scarves and Real Leather Belts. Versatile manufacturer, very short lead times. Small and big quantities welcome. Oeko-Tex & Sedex certified. Fabric sourcing and design services available. email: email@example.com’
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e-mail: email@example.com www.adastralabels.com
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Myanmar/Burma granted duty free status by the EU Looking for manufacturing services and would like to take advantage of this new duty free status? Huntley International are a manufacturing company with offices in London, New York, Seoul, Hong Kong and a factory in Myanmar producing ladies/men’s outerwear, suiting and casualwear for major retail companies. Utilising Huntley International will allow you to benefit from these duty free rates, significantly reducing your manufacturing costs.
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PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service? We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts. We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.
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SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 firstname.lastname@example.org DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
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Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry. Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE
EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.
Email: email@example.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711
The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.
TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••
Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT
firstname.lastname@example.org 0844 800 3630
A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, ﬂowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it! Visit our transformed website! 16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: email@example.com W: www.bltrimmings.com
Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713
ORDER No. DATE
16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: firstname.lastname@example.org; W: www.bltrimmings.com
Notice board STOCK WANTED
AUTHORISED Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx
ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment.
Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376
EARN ££££’s Today
Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email email@example.com
We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.
Mixed bundles, current or past season collections. No minimum / maximum.
Stockroom clearance is our speciality Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.
firstname.lastname@example.org 01423 872868
Established 1973 Established 1973
From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE
OVERSTOCKS WE BUY
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best. Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual. Email: email@example.com. Tel: 0208 886 0494
THE GRADING BUREAU
Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 020 8364 8859 AND ANYTHING
Highly Skilled Pattern Cutter With 22 yrs experience. Patterns - Samples - Grading Reliable, Friendly, Efficient Service. Tel: Belinda on 01747 822695
firstname.lastname@example.org DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE REACTION – DECISION – PAYMENT LSS Services www.drapersonline.com Unit 6 Atlas Business Centre Oxgate Lane London NW2 7HJ Tel: 020 8208 0404
Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs. Childrens, Ladies and Mens. N11 2LX email@example.com
Very experienced sample machinist of 18 years seeks part time or freelance work. Contact Ann 07979595711
Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available
www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723
The Pattern Room LTD
contact Margaret-Ann email: firstname.lastname@example.org tel: 0758 367 4411
EXPERIENCED HANDS TO MAKE YOUR SAMPLES AND PATTERNS An efficient and reliable service for your sampling needs
FootwEAr SoLutionS Extensive experience in Far East footwear development, manufacturing and sourcing for high street brands Overseeing sampling, costing, grading, QC through to production
Contact Andrew Kephalas +447768792792 Email: email@example.com AK Footwear Consultancy Limited
I went through the Hell of Banks, HMRC, Trade Creditors etc within the Retail trade. I learned to raise short term finance and deal with any possible Insolvency Procedures. I now use my experience to assist Companies in difficult positions. My expertise can now help you. Contact Charles on 07849 478260
Tel: 020 8361 1444
DATAGR AF LTD
BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 firstname.lastname@example.org DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
Zuppe Clothing Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery. Labels stocked: Zuppe, Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro
and Preppi. Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – email@example.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection DESIGN SOURCING PRODUCTION
PRODUCING EXCELLENT, HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS FOR HIGH STREET RETAILERS Creative in-house Designers working alongside an experienced Quality Control Crew assure the delivery of great products at competitive prices backed up by a very professional Back Office and Administration Team
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT ANDREW OWEN ON MOBILE 07757 362969 e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org website www.accessory-heaven.co.uk
DECEMBER 14 2013
MY FASHION LIFE
The artistic director of Tranoï and founder of L’Eclaireur in Paris feels protective about the brands he unearths
Words by EMILY NORVAL
ow does Tranoï stand out from other trade shows? We have important, famous locations including Carrousel du Louvre and we are located within Paris, not the suburbs, where all the other shows are. We refuse to go with what’s commercial – jeans, sportswear or streetwear – in order to support young stylists and designers. In January’s edition of Tranoï, you launched Preview. Can you tell us a bit more about it? It came about because I’m on both sides of the industry: the buyer’s side at [six-store Paris luxury lifestyle retailer] L’Eclaireur and I’m director of a trade fair. Preview is a pre-collections fair that is 64
Drapers / DECEMBER 14 2013
ahead in terms of the market, so only big brands have really understood it so far. I wanted to place importance on increasing deliveries, to alleviate budget that was previously frozen into buying twice a year. Mainly I wanted to make deliveries more intelligent, by delivering the day before the winter season and not in the middle of summer. It gives more coherence and logic, stabilises budgets and gives stores a better dynamic. So you think fashion is becoming less separated by seasons? Absolutely. There isn’t any justification any more for the seasons or for Sales when product is well-purchased. Moreover, there is no longer any justification for menswear and womenswear to be separate collections. We will mix both more and more.
Do you ever find your two jobs clash when you discover a new brand and want to keep it for your own store? No. When we want the exclusivity of a brand, we only want it for one season and not for a long time. It’s important for us to protect brands from people who aren’t professionals and who buy without understanding or respecting codes. Or people who tend to go towards Sales and depreciate the work of the designer by selling it off too savagely. What are the criteria for new exhibitors at Tranoï? The selection mustn’t be based on sportswear, streetwear or any kind of ‘easiness’. The brand must have a story and the collections must be contemporary, not classical or too old-fashioned. What do you personally look for in new brands? I’m looking for a contemporary note; something like what Zara is doing, but better. I want to see more personal pieces and have a story to read, but through a short collection, not a large one. What brand has been your biggest success at L’Eclaireur? There are many of them in shoes, accessories and jewellery. The greatest have been Belgian brands such as Ann Demeulemeester, as well as some Japanese brands. Have you ever bought a brand that didn’t do so well? Yes, certainly. But what I recall are Antwerp hits: Ann Demeulemeester discoveries that have seduced spring 14 me. The failures have been in the minority and are without importance. What has been your biggest success in terms of your career? There have been many. The big successes that nobody expected were footwear brands Tod’s and Hogan, which we introduced. Nobody believed they would be extraordinary and worldwide successes. What is your personal favourite brand? Junya Watanabe. What would you do if you didn’t work in fashion? I’d be an architect. Where is your favourite place in the world? Nature, wherever it is. If you could have dinner with three people, alive or dead, who would you pick? What’s important is listening; to lend someone our ear. If I listen to very well-known people, I will surely enrich myself, much more than he or she will. But if I had to choose, I would rather offer a dinner to an unknown person who needs to be listened to and who needs comfort. To read an extended version of this interview, go to www.drapersonline.com
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