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JUNE 1 2013 £4.75 www.drapersonline.com

SHORTS STORy

The founder of swimshort specialist Orlebar Brown on its next chapter

GRADUATE FASHION WEEK PREVIEW dEsigNErs to watch at this yEar’s stUdENt showcasE SPRING 14 PREVIEW

A first look at brands’ collections / P33

BRANDWATCH Designer Tabitha Webb unveils her new project / P30

ROUNDTABLE The dos and don’ts of sourcing customer data / P53


Always Innovative, Forever Glamorous

UK Customer Services T: 0141 204 0699 E: fashion@premierfashions.co.uk franklyman.com


THE WEEK Drapers COVER IMAGE: TOM CAMPBELL

Check out tomorrow’s trends and talent today

Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Caroline Nodder, 020 3033 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 020 3033 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 020 3033 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 020 3033 2861 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 020 3033 2767 Features Editor James Knowles, 020 3033 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 020 3033 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 020 3033 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 020 3033 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 020 3033 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 020 3033 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 020 3033 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 020 3033 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 020 3033 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 020 3033 4235 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 020 3033 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 020 3033 2770 Contributors Grace Chamia, Harriet Osborne Crowley

Can you believe the buying season is almost upon us again? This week we take a look at what you can expect from some of the key brands for spring 14 with a sneak preview of the looks, fabrics and pricing for next season in our Season’s Preview (see p33). And it’s also a big week for the next generation of talent coming through from fashion colleges as we look ahead to Graduate Fashion Week, which starts on Sunday (see p45). You may have also noticed our cover star this week is Adam Brown, founder of swimwear brand Orlebar Brown, one of the most talked about brands of recent times, which is beginning an exciting new chapter (see p18). We also caught up with Tabitha Webb, the former Project D designer, who is striking out on her own (see p30), and paid a visit to the Love Brand & Co store for our Shopwatch feature to see how the retailer is combining ethical trading with its product offer (see p22). Don’t forget you can find up-to-the-minute news and views as part of your subscription at Drapersonline.com – simply log on using your subscriber number.

COMMERCIAL TEAM Group Commercial Director Mandy Cluskey, 020 3033 2965 Commercial Director Lars Fiddy, 020 3033 2953 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 020 3033 2952 Account Managers Lucy Potucek, 020 3033 2959 Rebecca Soni, 020 3033 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 020 3033 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 020 3033 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 020 3033 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 020 3033 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 020 3033 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 020 3033 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 020 3033 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 020 3033 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 020 3033 2669 Rebecca Tonkinson, 020 3033 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 020 3033 2862

CONTENTS Issue 01.06.13 REGULARS

2_ News Our edit of the week’s top stories, including Bangladesh and the sportswear market 8_ In-Depth Why retailers are excited about new shopping mall Whiteley 12_ Opinion Comment from retail expert Clare Rayner and Melanie Moller, owner of indie Just Jumpers 14_ Fashion Index Trading info from the UK and around the world 55_ Careers Climbing the ladder with Fiona Marston, creative director of Parka London

PUBLISHING Managing Director Retail Group Tracey Davies, 020 3033 2895 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 020 3033 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 020 3033 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013

Orlebar Brown, is diving into women’s swimwear 22_ Shopwatch Shop for beachwear while saving elephants at Love Brand & Co 53_ Roundtable Retailers debate the best ways of gaining customer insight DIRECTIONS

25_ This Week’s Hero Women’s jeans brand Genetic Denim is

FEATURES

45

18_ Close-Up Adam Brown, owner of swimshorts brand

22

33

hoping a relaunch will raise its UK profile 26_ The Buzz Hot trends and brands, including pre-collections and Asos Black x Puma 29_ Style Council We catch up with some of last year’s Graduate Fashion Week winners 30_ Brandwatch Ex-Project D designer Tabitha Webb talks us through her eponymous new label

33_ Season’s Preview Brands give us a sneak peek of their collections for spring 14 45_ GFW 2013 Preview The young talents to watch out for at Graduate Fashion Week 50_ GFW Interviews Judges, trustees and supporters on why GFW is so important 51_ This Fashion Life David Shah, publisher of colour bible Pantone

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 1

_Caroline Nodder, editor-in-chief


NEWS

Bleak forecast is ‘crisis’ for fashion / Trading /

Poor start to the year increases the likelihood of administrations across the industry

Further fashion administrations are expected this year, with a bleak outlook for retail exacerbated by the recent drizzly weather and weak consumer spending. A report published by The Centre for Retail Research this week stated that more than a fifth of British shops will close down over the next five years. It claimed the total number of shops in the UK would drop 22% from 281,930 currently to 220,000 in 2018. The centre blamed a switch to online as well as dampened consumer spend for what it dubbed a “crisis”. A further blow was delivered by The Confederation of British Industry (CBI)’s monthly Distributive Trades Survey, which reported retail sales had fallen at their fastest rate for more than a year in May. Volume sales across clothing retailers dropped 21%, while footwear sales fell 11%. The sales decline was not just limited to retailers, with clothing, textile and

‘rent quarter day is coming up and i think you’re going to see a lot of retailers fall away’ Fashion agent

footwear wholesalers registering a 23% drop. Chris Roche, owner of young fashion indie Ciren Jeans in Cirencester, Gloucestershire, described the situation on the high street as “desperate”. “We’re not planning on going on Sale early, although our main worry is that etailers will. I’ve already started to see the big etailers discounting heavily, and that’s something brands need to look at if they want to keep their indies onside.” One agent told Drapers he was “hearing horror stories” from the high street. “Rent quarter day is coming up

and I think you’re going to see a lot of retailers falling away, as the landlords will get them.” Nick Hood, business risk analyst at financial research firm Company Watch, said there was “little doubt” more administrations loomed within the fashion sector. “If there is a retail recovery, fashion will be slower out of the blocks. The die is cast for companies this year,” said Hood. “They’ve had the wrong sort of clothes for the weather and it’s difficult to recover from this. “It’s pretty hard getting your collections right when it’s midwinter in spring and spring in winter. Fashion has been the big loser. The warmer weather over the bank holiday weekend did provide a short-lived boost. Luke Conod, managing director of Hereford young fashion indie Fit, said: “The weekend was the best it’s been for a while, but it’s been a tough start to the year.”

talking point Is the internet killing the high street? ellie thomas, 17, hairdresser “It’s sad seeing stores close but if more people are going to shop online because it’s easier, high street stores just need to do the same to stay alive. I love going shopping on breaks or with the girls but I love to shop online as well.”

robert diprose, 57, indie owner “No high streets can fully depend on general consumer spending – we’re lucky here down south due to the tourism we receive. My four stores aren’t currently online but I’ll have websites set up next month in order to bring the customers in; the high street is never enough.”

VOX POPS BY NICOLE JACKSON IN BOGNOR REGIS, WEST SUSSEX

louise Maciver, 46, fashion stylist “I’m disabled so online shopping is a blessing. My body can’t take waiting around in queues and �ighting past people in the high street. I can order clothes from the safety of my own home – online is perfect for me.”

sharon Goodsall (left), 46, banker “I prefer popping into town because it gives me something to do. I �ind it so sad that more people aren’t using the shops.” calum Goodsall (above right), 17, student “I only come into town to socialise. It doesn’t bother me if they close; the chain retailers aren’t going anywhere anyway.”

ALAMY

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 2

by Victoria gallagher & Jill geoghegan


cold comfort can fashion retailers beat the bad weather blues?

News in Numbers

www.drapersonline.com

316,000

Jobs could be lost due to stoRe closuRes by 2018

110

Republic stores’ futures to be settled as landloRds decide on Rent changes

13.9%

Rise in fashion sales at John lewis in the week to May 18

2 Months that deniM will ‘takeoveR’ selfridges london

150

Jimmy choo stoRes woRldwide could Receive new concept oveRhaul

12

categoRies in dRapeRs’ new awaRds, drapers top independents 2013

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 3

looking on the bright side: bognor regis high street, where drapers surveyed shoppers (see below)


/

News

Manufacturing /

Call for fashion to appoint supply chain watchdog

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 4

By Catherine Neilan

Campaigners are calling on the Government to introduce a clothing ombudsman to ensure retailers uphold legal working standards throughout their global supply chain. John Hilary, executive director of anti-poverty charity War on Want, told Drapers he was concerned retailers were not shouldering their responsibilities when it came to compensation. He also claimed some retailers who had publicly committed to the Fire and Building Safety Accord in Bangladesh previously were starting to “row back”. “It’s an indication that having a couple of weeks’ media focus and outrage around the world isn’t enough – you need legislation,” he said. Hilary said government involvement would mean “everyone had to play by the same rules”.

/

He pointed to the creation of a groceries code adjudicator by the Department of Business, Innovation and Skills (BIS) to maintain legal standards throughout the supply chain as a potential model for the clothing industry. “Having an ombudsman to whom you can bring complaints means you get past the public relationship fluff on [corporate social responsibility] to the truth of the matter,” he said. BIS told Drapers it was not responding to enquiries on Bangladesh or the supply chain, directing us instead to the Department for International Development (DfID). A DfID spokeswoman said it kept “regular contact” with companies working in Bangladesh. She added: “There is still much more to be done and everyone needs to play their part.”

Compensation demands: campaigners outside Benetton and Mango last weekend

Last weekend, activists from groups including Labour Behind the Label and War on Want staged a series of protests around the UK over the lack of full compensation from retailers Mango and Benetton. The protests marked one month on from the Bangladeshi factory disaster that killed more than 1,120 people. Benetton, which had used the factory for two orders, the last of which was a month before the tragedy, has so far

Exhibitions /

B&B imposes €500 entry fee on non-buyers By Victoria Gallagher

Streetwear show Bread & Butter is to charge up to 2,000 service providers, including fabric dealers and real estate companies, nearly £450 to enter this season’s spring 14 edition. The Berlin event first mooted the possibility of levying a fee to “anyone who is not a buyer” back in January, and is now communicating the details of the charge ahead of next month’s show. At the forthcoming event, which takes place from July 2 to 4, service providers will be charged an entrance fee of €500 (£427) per person per event. Those closely connected to brands and retailers, such as agents, will not have to pay for entry, and neither will press. B&B founder and managing director Karl-Heinz Müller told Drapers that

Any way you slice it: Müller said Bread & Butter is fully booked for spring 14

attendees in roles such as marketing agencies, shop builders and factory suppliers would be charged an entrance fee. In total it is estimated that between 1,000 and 2,000 people will be affected. “All these people use the show for their business but they pay nothing for it,” said Müller. “They’ve used B&B for free for so many years. If you use B&B to deal and use all the exhibitors for your business then you have to pay something for it.” Müller said the show was not having financial difficulties and was “totally, fully booked” for the spring 14 edition. However, young fashion figures were alarmed at B&B’s decision. One brand manager said: “It’s a strange message to send to an industry in turmoil and difficulty. At this point in time it seems crazy.”


Consumers milling around Primark’s latest Oxford Street store told Drapers they will not change their shopping habits – but called on retailers to ensure better conditions for workers. The collapse of the Rana Plaza factory last month did not appear to have put people off value fashion, but many said they would consider paying more if it enabled retailers to put more safety measures in place. One shopper, 57-year-old secretary Marie Corley, said “The employees at those factories need to work but we also need a sustainable industry. I would definitely pay more for my clothing if it meant secure factory conditions for workers.” By Dolly Eniola

committed to offering assistance for artificial limbs and surgery, and is working on a programme “focused on the families who have lost their only source of income due to this tragedy”. At the time of the incident, Mango said it had no “official suppliers” at the factory “although we had established contact with one of them in order to produce a sample order”. Both have signed the Bangladesh Fire and Building Safety Accord.

/

Accessories /

Cambridge Satchel Co looks overseas Leather accessories brand The Cambridge Satchel Company has unveiled plans to extend its retail footprint globally as it opens a new store in its hometown. The brand is opening in Cambridge on June 8, six months after the launch of its flagship store on Short Gardens, Covent Garden. The 177 sq ft store will sit on the city’s Rose Crescent. Head of wholesale and business development Max Karie said the next logical step for the brand was to open stores overseas. “Our next store will be an international one,” he told Drapers. “We always have one eye on the next step for the company and there is no denying the global market offers a lot of opportunities for us. Our two shops in the UK offer the perfect base for our British customers and it would be great to add Hong Kong, Paris or New York to that list.” However, Karie insisted that wherever the brand was sold, it would remain a British-made name. “It is core to the ethos of the brand,” he said.

TALENT SHOW FASHION’S FUTURE STARS REVEAL WHAT THEY’VE GOT PLANNED FOR GRADUATE FASHION WEEK p45

News in Brief Sports Direct goes international

Sports Direct is plotting global expansion after buying majority stakes in sportswear retailers in Austria and the Baltic. The Mike Ashley-owned business has acquired 51% of Austria’s Sports Eybl & Sports Experts AG (EAG) and 60% of Baltic-based Sportland International Group.

Tyrrell in New West End Co exit

Director of communications Jace Tyrrell is leaving New West End Company after 10 years. Tyrrell (pictured) has been appointed as executive director of Westminster and City Property Association. He will leave in the autumn.

Founder leaves Issa London

Issa London founder and creative director has left the business. Daniella Helayel, who has left to pursue other interests, will be succeeded by Blue Farrier, who has previously worked at designer labels including Chloé, Stella McCartney and Anya Hindmarch.

M&S wins rent case against BNP

Marks & Spencer has won a case against French banking giant BNP Paribas after the retailer was charged more than £1.1m in rent for vacated properties. The retailer had exited its store at The Point in Paddington, London, after exercising a lease break, but continued to be charged for rent, car-parking fees, service charges and insurance. BNP is appealing the decision.

Subscribe Consultant Yasmin Sewell has teamed up with distributor Paper Mache Tiger and etail portal Farfetch on a Shoreditch pop-up shop. Beach in the East will run until August with labels such as The Print Dept (left) and Thomas Tait (right).

To receive your own copy of Drapers every week, plus full access to the website, either call 0844 848 8858 and quote dwhs, or visit www.subscription.co.uk /drapers/dwhs

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 5

Shoppers unaffected


News

/ Ecommerce /

make the grade How can cLoTHIng buSIneSSeS buILD THeIR e-meRcH muScLe www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

cashing in: profits are up at the business

/ Young fashion /

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 6

Franklin & Marshall in B&B comeback Young fashion brand Franklin & Marshall will return to streetwear show Bread & Butter this July after a five-year hiatus. The brand will take a 1,829 sq ft stand as it aims to consolidate its position in both the European and Middle Eastern markets. Chief marketing officer Luca Innocenzi said: “Increasing stockists is of course one of our targets, however, I also feel it is important for Franklin & Marshall to have an arena in which we can showcase the brand and the current direction.” For autumn 13, Franklin & Marshall launched sub-brands called Campus, Varsity, Alumni and Lab, along with its first capsule collection, Visionaries by Franklin & Marshall. Innocenzi said spring 14 would continue to see the development of these across both the men’s and women’s ranges. Due to the success of the capsule collection, the young fashion label is hoping to launch and develop further collections. The brand ended last year with a 24% rise in EBITDA and a 15% increase in profits, despite a slight dip in revenues to €46m (£38.9m) from €47m the previous year.

‘It is important to have an arena in which we can showcase the current direction’ Luca Innocenzi, chief marketing officer, Franklin & Marshall

Clothing fails in e-merchandising Clothing retailers are being outgunned by retailers from other sectors when it comes to online merchandising, according to an annual index. The Peerius Online Merchandising Index, which this year included non-clothing businesses for the first time, saw clothing businesses edged out of the top spot in three of the four judging categories. Fashion dominated the category, with Dorothy Perkins topping the list thanks to its user-friendly mobile app and mobile-optimised website. Next, Asos, New Look, Topshop, River Island and H&M also featured. But the sector was weak in other categories such as visualisation – how products are presented – where only House of Fraser and Sports Direct made it into the top six.

Roger Brown, chief executive of Peerius, a website personalisation software firm, said: “Historically the apparel sector has been viewed as the home of merchandising best practice. However, this year’s index tells us this is no longer the case.” Brown highlighted the low rating for clothing sites’ home pages and category pages – for example, Dorothy Perkins, the top clothing retailer and ranked second overall, scored zero for both.

Home base: Dorothy Perkins’ website

/ Barometer / Footwear etailer JustFab is branching into France and Spain after acquiring local footwear website The Fab Shoes

House of Fraser’s own brands helped contribute to a record profit reported last week, up 4% in the year to January 26. They now make up 14% of total sales Clothing manufacturer Basic Thinking has opened a factory in Leicester aimed at fast-fashion retailers

THRILLS

SPILLS

Asos has been forced to withdraw a studded belt from sale (pictured), over fears it could be radioactive. In total, 49 have been sold in 14 countries

Punkyfish managing director Kemal Gediz has been jailed for 18 months after failing to pay VAT and staff tax contributions


CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

SIBLING

LCM FASHION FORWARD SPONSORSHIP

/ Womenswear /

stockists, as retailers buy closer to the season. “We are able to turn around new styles really quickly and we can offer in-season styles so stockists can really capitalise on best-selling pieces,” she said. “We are working closely with factories to get quick turnaround. We have our own retail stores and so we can get a read within a week what styles are working for us.” Louche has stockists in 26 countries including Zimbabwe, the US, Canada and Turkey, but hopes its expanded trade show presence will encourage further international stockists. Southeast Asia is a target, with Singapore top of the list. The retailer this week opened its largest store to date, an 11,000 sq ft shop on Albion Street, Leeds. The two-floor shop – which is more than double the size of Joy’s previous largest – showcases a new concept alongside an expanded fashion and gift offering. The Leeds store is expected to be the first of a push into major Northern cities, with Joy seeking sites in Manchester, Nottingham and Liverpool among others.

By Victoria Gallagher

Contemporary mini-chain Joy is aiming to further grow its wholesale division by extending its autumn 13 range and increasing its trade show presence. The lifestyle business, which wholesales its own label Louche, will almost double the size of its stand at Paris trade show Who’s Next for autumn 13, and will also exhibit at Berlin streetwear show Bread & Butter and womenswear exhibition Pure London. Louche sales and marketing executive Katie Martin said: “Paris is so successful for us. Last season we had a stand that was 98 sq ft and it was so busy it was ridiculous. In order to show off the range better we are taking a 164 sq ft stand this season.” Women’s short-order label Louche will offer a bigger range for autumn 13, with 360 pieces compared with 300 for autumn 12. The collection includes royal blue shirt dresses, floral-print skirts and lilac and candyfloss-coloured knitwear. Martin said the wholesale expansion came on the back of some strong seasons. “We are having accounts coming back to us and doubling their orders on last season,” she added. Martin said the brand’s short-order nature had increasingly attracted

Quick fix: 360-piece Louche collection is available at short order

Full of the Joys of spring? We take a look at Louche’s collection at www.drapersonline.com/blogs

/ Young fashion /

Bell�ield ramps up collection to meet demand By Victoria Gallagher

Young fashion brand Bellfield has more than trebled its offer for autumn 13 to meet demand from stockists. It has expanded its range of categories, adding leather jackets, lingerie, onesies and accessories such as hats, scarves and gloves. For autumn 12 the menswear range comprised 80 pieces but has grown to 250 for autumn 13. Womenswear had a 30-piece range for autumn 12, whereas for autumn 13 it will have 100 pieces.

Men’s footwear has expanded from 15 to 35 styles since its spring 13 capsule launch. Bellfield will also offer women’s footwear for the first time for autumn 13. Juls Dawson, managing director of Just Consultancies, which represents the brand, said: “We’ve listened to our customers and consumers and have reacted by expanding our offer.” Bellfield will also create a range of men’s tailoring, including blazers. “We’ve seen a rise in our retailers asking for soft tailoring. We trialled a few and they flew,” said Dawson.

Sharp move: tailoring is new for autumn

Meanwhile, Just Consultancies is to expand with four new team members. A key account manager joins next month and an export manager is also set to join, as well as two sales assistants. “Some of the brands we carry have their own export team, but there is a massive opportunity for part of our portfolio to grow,” said Dawson. For the agency’s own menswear brand Friend or Faux, Dawson and his team are setting up distributors in four or five undisclosed new overseas territories.

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 7

Joy hits trade show circuit to cash in on wholesale success


IN-DEPTH

Retail’s hybrid approach Described as a ‘crossbreed’ shopping centre, its developers claim Whiteley represents the future of retail Words by JILL GEOGHEGAN

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 8

T

he UK’s newest shopping destination, Whiteley retail park, opened last week (May 23) to a buzz of optimism among retailers and developers alike. The 320,000 sq ft open-air retail and leisure scheme in Hampshire has been dubbed a hybrid of the high street and the traditional shopping centre owing to its open air nature. It is the latest mall to follow this blueprint for retail developments. One of only three UK shopping and leisure schemes opening this year, Whiteley is a joint venture development between property developer British Land and pension scheme USS. According to British Land head of retail development Richard Wise, the hybrid centre is “the future of retail shopping – avoiding the claustrophobia of old-style developments while still being able to offer the usual one-stopshop benefits of a mall”. Anchored by a 60,000 sq ft Marks & Spencer with a 94-seat licensed cafe, Whiteley comprises 58 retailers, including Topshop, Next, H&M, River Island, Clarks, Schuh and JD Sports, along with a plethora of late-night opening eateries. It follows the launch of the highly anticipated Trinity Leeds development last month, another take on the hybrid model in that it is covered but was built around an existing shopping district in the city centre. Verdict Research retail analyst Maureen Hinton describes these new approaches as a “crossbreed … in effect an idealised high street”. “There’s no denying the allure of producing something brand new and exciting rather than trying to reinvigorate an old, weary high street,” she adds. But Hinton argues these new centres are not generating extra spending, rather shifting spend to different pockets. “Consumers are spending less than ever these days and so competition

Centre of attention: Whiteley opened its doors to an enthusiastic crowd last week, but will local high streets suffer?

is rife,” she tells Drapers. “Given the attraction of such a development, business is likely to be poached from the local high street in the area.” Matthew Hopkinson, director of research firm Local Data Company, agrees, saying such schemes will have a “massive impact” on high streets, which are already vulnerable to online competition, as a loss in footfall will “inevitably lead to increasing vacancy rates”. BUT RETAILERS ARGUE footfall and spend will increase as a result of the development, which may attract different kinds of consumers looking for more than just the retail experience. Phil Whittle, head of store operations at footwear chain Schuh, says: “Our expectation is that footfall will grow, but of course we are going to be busier at certain times of the day and at weekends. Whiteley is a real shopping destination, people will specifically choose to come here to shop and if we weren’t here we would be missing out.”

Story in Numbers

58

Retailers at Whiteley

1,000 Jobs created

£84m Cost of the development

1,500

Car parking spaces

2

Cash points on site

Marks & Spencer’s Whiteley store manager Lisa Holliman adds: “Of course there will be an element of deflection from the high street but the centre offers a different shopping experience. It’s new and exciting for shoppers.” Research suggests this new generation of retail development is likely to dominate as UK shopping centre investment continues. According to property firm Cushman & Wakefield, retail values totalled €5.4bn (£4.6bn) in the second half of 2012, compared with €3bn (£2.56bn) in the previous six months. In Hereford, construction is already underway on the next retail scheme from British Land, a 310,000 sq ft centre, which is due to open in spring 2014. Wise is bullish about the opportunities for significant incremental growth at hybrid developments, using Whiteley as a blueprint for others. “Everything is accessible and convenient and it’s great to see local retailers operating alongside big fashion chains,” he says. “It’s a revelation for retail on the south coast.”


Showcasing the Best of British Menswear

16.06.13 — 18.06.13 londoncollections.co.uk facebook.com/britishfashioncouncil twitter.com/BFC Join the conversation #LCM

Photography: Alexander Kent, Set design: Charlotte Lawton


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OPINION

I

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 11

Fashion businesses must be proactive in the ethical debate _ Caroline Nodder

was invited a while ago to take part in a panel discussion at the Ethical Fashion Show, set up by students at the London College of Fashion. As it then transpired, the event took place in the same week as the horrific news of the Bangladesh factory collapse hit the media and the panel discussion took on even more relevance. On the panel with me were representatives from the key charities addressing this issue, from ethical brands themselves and from the All-party Parliamentary Group that looks at the issue from a legislative perspective. It was a fascinating debate, and one that was without the sort of knee-jerk blame reaction that can so often stifle discussion around real solutions. The conclusion was that we all have a responsibility to ensure something like the Bangladesh disaster doesn’t happen again – retailers, charities, the Government and even consumers. The charities had concerns over legislating in regions like Bangladesh individually without a global accord, fearing it may encourage production to move elsewhere and could in the long run destroy that local economy. And there was some debate over the quite widely held view that value retailers pay less for manufacturing than higher-priced brands – which isn’t true, in fact, as their volume business runs on much tighter margins. Quite surprisingly in an audience of students there was also criticism from some of the attendees themselves of younger consumers’ attitude to buying

fashion, with accusations that the next generation have not been brought up to value ethical fashion in the same way as their parents might. On the day of the debate, Primark had pledged already to pay into the compensation fund for the Bangladesh workers and the speed and breadth of its support was welcomed by the panel, with the debate then centering on how legislation might help prevent a repeat. The view from the panel was that legislation had to be universal, and must be funded through retailers rather than manufacturers, so standards can be independently monitored and some consistency achieved. The accord which has since been signed by many key retail names in the UK echoes many of these hopes but ultimately it only covers Bangladesh, and calls are emerging for some form of ombudsman to be set up to oversee an accord covering all global manufacturing. For the fashion business in the UK this is an evolving issue. I do think ethical fashion will gather more momentum with consumers over the coming years as the financial gloom lifts, and brands and retailers cannot afford to be associated with unethical practices, but the solution has to be workable for all parties and will need a partnership approach to succeed. No one working in the fashion business wants to see a repeat of Bangladesh, so let’s keep that dialogue open. Drapers editor-in-chief / caroline.nodder@emap.com

TELL US YOUR THOUGHTS – WHAT SHOULD THE INDUSTRY DO TO ENSURE BETTER WORKING PRACTICES OVERSEAS? www.drapersonline.com


OPINION

/ Talking Business /

‘Our MPs are totally out of touch with modern retail’ _ Clare Rayner

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 12

L

ast week, Simon Danczuk MP led a parliamentary debate on the Government’s support for the high street. His opening address explored the imbalance in business rates between online-only retail and multichannel, and a need for “digital champions” rather than “high street champions”. With this encouraging introduction I was anticipating a passionate debate on innovation, action, and a way forward. I was sorely disappointed. It appeared the MPs were totally out of touch with modern retail. The concept of digital champions to help smaller independent retailers embrace all that technology offers, using it as an enabler of consumer engagement, was lost on them.

Most thought indies feared the internet, regarding it as a threat. Their assumptions, based on second or third-hand information rather than evidence or contact with traders in their own communities, had me tearing my hair out. It’s clear that until we have a government that understands modern retailing, and more MPs who engage with the local traders in their constituencies (as Danczuk does), we’ll never have meaningful policy to support high street regeneration. I guess that means it’s up to us to lead the high street evolution – not with the support of government but in spite of it. Retail expert and writer

/ Talking Shop /

‘To limit risks for spring 14 I will buy more in-season’ _ Melanie Moller

L

ike many independents, I’ll go into the new buying season intending to cut back on forward ordering. After the tough spring, with March and most of April particularly grim, I want to limit my risks for spring 14 by buying more of what I need in-season. Whether forward ordering or buying short order I will be looking for suppliers to show me something different, something that won’t be seen in the multiples or department stores at lower prices than mine. Despite my shop’s name, in the spring especially I sell a lot more than knitwear, such as dresses, skirts, blouses and cropped trousers. I’ve done very well this season with a lovely Italian shirt brand called

Milano, which offers stylish items with floral trim. Importantly, they retail at about £50, which is the ‘pain barrier’ for most of my customers. When many of my suppliers tell me they are doing something different they produce styles suited more to 15 to 25-year-olds, not the 25 to 60-year-olds that make up most of my customers. With so many small boutiques closing, there’s an opportunity for those of us that survive to win new customers, but suppliers have to give us something that’s different yet appropriate. Owner of womenswear indie Just Jumpers in Beccles, Suffolk, and a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB)

VIEWS & NEWS READ OPINIONS ON THE BIGGEST FASHION STORIES BY CHECKING OUT THE DRAPERS BLOG AT

05

Comments from Drapersonline

www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

01 ‘With £600 gilets, M&S autumn 13 falls wide of the mark’ – They have thousands of staff to ask so take it back to the core M&S, do not try to please all the people Douglas Hood

02 Focus on your core customer first, before giving the wider public what they do not want Anonymous

03 ‘Deadlock continues over Bangladesh safety accord’ – Consumers of US-based companies who refuse to sign the agreement should take this article as a call to action Hanna Claeson

04 ‘Bolland: M&S store presentation must improve, but density won’t change’ – M&S has always been too dense. Even a guide dog couldn’t find its way through the store without running into something Anonymous

05 ‘Barbour expands with two key hires’ – It will be interesting to see how these new hires can integrate with [Steve] Buck Anonymous

Online Poll This week’s poll result Are retailers doing enough to retain their staff? YES

NO

4% 96% This week’s question Will your high street still be going strong in five years’ time? www.drapersonline.com


ADVERTORIAL COTTON USA COMPETITION

ONES TO WATCH

To mark a decade of sponsoring emerging talent at LFW, COTTON USA has teamed up with Drapers to find the next big designer working with cotton. After a deluge of high-quality entries, the panel has picked just four finalists – the winner will be revealed in Drapers’ June 15 issue

VICTORIA RENZO BIRMINGHAM CITY UNIVERSITY The weather and the dramatic effects it can have on the landscape are the inspiration behind Victoria Renzo’s cotton collection, “Natural Elements”. Feminine in style, the collection incorporates summery colours with raindrop prints and a wide selection of pieces. From asymmetrical skirts to sheer blouses, shorts and vests, Victoria’s designs are all created in lightweight cotton fabrics.

AIMEE KNIGHT SHEFFIELD HALLAM UNIVERSITY

AMY CRITCHLOW MANCHESTER METROPOLITAN UNIVERSITY Amy Critchlow describes her collection as increasing “product longevity for a more positive future”. To achieve this, she has created a 30-piece collection using fabrics that are easy to care for and can be worn in a number of different ways. Produced predominantly in white cotton, Critchlow says the collection will demonstrate this versatile fabric’s durable qualities and “last for more than one season”.

Finalist Aimee Knight has designed a pared-down minimalist collection based on neutral tones, called “Of Two Minds”. Designed to appeal to both men and women, the collection is predominantly cotton based, incorporating elements of organdy and silk, with boxy shapes, gathering and zips for detail.

STEPHANIE KENDALL UNIVERSITY OF HUDDERSFIELD Targeted at women aged from 20 to 50-years-old, Stephanie Kendall has created a sophisticated collection that takes its design inspiration from the often overlooked items that surround us in everyday life, using geometry to transform them into clothing. Like her fellow finalists, Kendall’s cotton collection uses a primarily white palette but has accents of pastel mint green, pink and yellow for colour.


Fashion INDEX

‘Cambridge Satchel story resonates with consumers’ _ Dan Coen

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 14

A

s we all enjoyed the warmer weather over the bank holiday weekend, it appears the sun was also shining on The Cambridge Satchel Company. It emerged the company is in talks with Zong Qinghou, China’s richest businessman and chief executive of drinks and clothing giant Wahaha, about a deal to sell the bags in the world’s largest consumer market. Such a deal would be a major milestone for the company, founded by Julie Deane four years ago at her kitchen table. The ‘Made in Britain’ label carries great weight in international markets and will be a strong advantage for Deane’s cross-border expansion. However, the brand’s satchels have something that probably resonates more strongly with consumers – a personal story that buyers can relate to. Many people will have seen the Google Chrome ad ‘London. New York. Our Kitchen’, which documents the rise of Deane’s business idea via online channels such as vloggers and bloggers. On the surface, the advert exemplifies the role the internet now plays in determining the success of a business. But the oneminute video has also familiarised consumers (more than six million YouTube viewers alone) with Deane’s story. In our increasingly digitalised and individualistic world, The Cambridge Satchel Company proves the ‘human’ side of a brand still resonates greatly with the public. After all, Deane didn’t start the business to just make lots of money for herself, but rather with the specific aim of paying for her daughter to change schools when she was being bullied. Despite the rise of chain stores and international brands, consumers clearly value a sense of integrity and a feeling of personalisation – owning an accessory that has a ‘personal’ story. Deane has a very strong product offering that she was able to market innovatively through the internet. Not to mention the impact of the Google advert. However, in today’s tough retail market, where customer loyalty is increasingly challenging for companies, The Cambridge Satchel Company emphasises the value of building a personal relationship with consumers. Maintaining this level of engagement will be the next task for Deane, as her satchels swing onto the global stage. Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX

National UK footfall figures Week 21 – May 20 to 26, 2013

-2%

-3.7% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

Once again we see a decline year on year of shopper traffic, this week of 3.7%, although this is below the year-to-date cumulative of 4.2%. Week on week we see a decline of 2%. This is interesting as the corresponding week last year saw a decline of 1.7% and 5.8% for week on week and year on year respectively; this was due to exceptionally warm weather, which hasn’t been the cause of this year’s underperformance but seems more to be following a general downward trend as seen in the year-to-date cumulative decline.

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending May 26, 2013

-9.1% -10.7%

Clothing

Total fashion

-23.7% Footwear

Fashion like-for-likes were hit hard this week with the poor weather and strong comparative figures playing a large role. Men’s fashion posted relatively robust figures while all other sectors struggled. For more information, email Don Williams at BDO at don.williams@bdo.co.uk

DRAPERSJOBS.COM

The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

The most applied for jobs 1. Design 9.2% NOTTINGHAM 23.6%

2. Production 6.5% 3. Merchandising 5.1% 4. Sales 4.9%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

5. Buying 4.3% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

/ Talking Trade /


SALES & TRENDS – MEN’S SPORTSWEAR

The men’s sportswear market is in decline with fewer shoppers buying less per trip

18.4m

£521m

Number of units

Expenditure

-0.2% -4%

£28.37

-3.8%

Average selling price

Retail sector share £%

2012 2013

24 weeks ending April 14, 2013 versus 2012

70%

-20.7%

-22.9%

0% SPORTS STORES

SUPERMARKETS

DISCOUNTERS

HOME SHOPPING

PURE-PLAY ETAIL

FOOTWEAR

DEPT STORES

GENERAL STORES

Kelly Chandaria, category analyst, Kantar Worldpanel

24 weeks ending April 14, 2013 versus 2012, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion

INDIES

Decline in year-on-year sales of men’s tracksuits

FASHION CHAINS

Year-on-year decline in sales of men’s sports tops

There is a significant decline in [sales of men’s sportswear at] bricks-and-mortar stores, down 7.2% in value year on year

INTERNATIONAL

The five top stories from around the globe ● COS is to launch in Turkey, with the first

store opening in Istanbul in the Zorlu Center mall. Marie Honda, brand director of Cos, said of the expansion: “Istanbul is a vibrant and exciting city and the Zorlu Center will be the ideal setting”.

TURKEY

CHINA

● SAKS has hired investment bank Goldman

Sachs to explore strategic alternatives including a sale of the department store chain. There is speculation that buyout firm KKR & Co will invest in Saks and pressure the retailer to merge with Neiman Marcus.

USA

● GAP is to continue its emphasis on

BRAZIL

innovation and digital to drive market share outside North America. Chief executive Glenn Murphy said it is expected to be in 54 countries by the end of the year.

● INDITEX is growing its network of Zara

Home outlets in Brazil with its third outlet in Cidade Jardim in São Paulo. High import duties in Brazil have meant companies like Mango have pulled out of the market.

You have to have a unique offering, a point of differentiation and something your competitors are unwilling or unable to do Glenn Murphy, chief executive, Gap

● NEIMAN MARCUS is paring back its

physical presence in China, amid a slowdown in demand for luxury goods in the country. The department store chain will close its Chinese warehouse and fulfil online orders from its facilities in the US.

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 15

PRODUCT TRENDS


Indie INDEX

Mainstream WOMENSWEAR

MENSWEAR

Best-selling brands of the week

Best-selling brands of the week

Top 10

Top 10 1

Joseph Ribkoff

1

Meyer

2

Betty Barclay

2

Gurteen

3

Brook Taverner

4

Seidensticker

5

Gant

3

Frank Lyman

4

Gerry Weber

5

Oui

6

Not Your Daughter’s Jeans

7

The Masai Clothing Company

8

Gold by Michael H

9

Pomodoro

9

Eterna

10

Marc Cain

10

Barbour

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Tops

2

Jeans

3

Dresses

4

Tunics

5

Jackets

Top 5

tAKINGS tHIS WEEK -4% year-on-year change

£167 AVERAGE SPEND

Magee

7

Douglas

8

Remus Uomo

tAKINGS tHIS WEEK 0.7% year-on-year change

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Trousers

2

Shirts

3

Suits

4

Jackets

5

Sweatshirts

£112

Top 5

AVERAGE SPEND

Brands with the best sell-through

Brands with the best sell-through 1

6

£9,336

Frank Lyman

Week ending May 25, 2013

1

Gurteen Brook Taverner

2

Betty Barclay

2

3

Joseph Ribkoff

3

Meyer

4

Marc Cain

4

Remus Uomo

5

Gerry Weber

5

Casa Moda

Top 5

Brands with the best margin 1

Gerry Weber

2

Joseph Ribkoff

3

Betty Barclay

4

Frank Lyman

5

Oui

-12% FOOtFAll Change for week ending May 25, 2013 compared with same week in 2012

-6%

Top 5

Brands with the best margin 1

Gurteen

2

Broook Taverner

3

Meyer

4

Peter England

5

Douglas

INDIE WATCH

+5.28%

AVERAGE MONtHlY tAKINGS

FOOtFAll Change for week ending May 25, 2013 compared with same week in 2012

52 THE bIg NumbEr

Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector

+0.82%

Week ending May 25, 2013

+5.43%

%

of indies say customers opt for price over brand name

PROFIt MARGIN

AVERAGE NuMBER OF uNItS SOlD

Data for April 15 to May 12, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 16

£8,954


General Enquiries 01392 876390 | Customer Service 0800 294 3373 | Official sponsor of JosephRibkoff.com


Drapers / JUnE 1 2013 _ 18

CLOSE-UP I AdAm Brown

Testing the water After making a splash with men’s swim shorts, the founder of Orlebar Brown is diving into women’s styles Words by JAMES KNOWLES Photography by TOM CAMPBELL

S

itting in the west London offices of orlebar Brown, I’m surrounded by a hive of activity. Known for its colourful and tailored aesthetic, the premium men’s swimwear brand, which specialises in swim shorts, has won an army of discerning gentlemen fans since its launch in 2007, but this month it crosses the divide with its first-ever women’s capsule collection – which will be stocked exclusively by luxury department store Harrods and womenswear etailer net-a-Porter in the UK, and by department store Barneys in the US. “But isn’t orlebar Brown [a fashion favourite among men’s glossies] very much a man’s brand?” I ask its founder Adam Brown as we take a seat in the relative calm of its beach-themed showroom. He replies: “It’s a different dialogue to be had and I think how we communicate that with the customer and our existing customers is something to be aware of. “we are a men’s brand. But we have a lot of women that come to the website to buy presents for their men, for their husbands and boyfriends. So women do come and use the website more than you think. we’re excited

about it but will tread carefully, because we’re still [predominantly] a menswear brand.” In fact, Brown adds that the 15-piece capsule collection will have the “very same mood and feel” of its menswear, similarly taking its inspiration from tailoring by referencing things such as the side-fastener, and by using the same fabrics. The collection includes three bikini bottoms and tops in a selection of colours, one-pieces, and towelling polos and tunics. Stewart mancey, general merchandise manager of sportswear at Harrods, is confident the brand will be every bit as successful with women’s as it has been in men’s. “when Adam approached us about launching his debut women’s swim line we were immediately excited about stocking this. I think it’s great orlebar Brown is diversifying as its menswear business is one of our anchor swimwear brands on the sports floor,” he says. mancey adds that the pricing of the range, which goes from £95 for swim briefs to £225 for a swimsuit, will make it popular with customers. “I have no doubt the womenswear line will perform equally as strongly as its menswear due to the diverse range of products and the price architecture offered,” he says. However, it’s not

‘We have a lot of women that come to the website to buy presents for their men’


CLOSE-UP I AdAm Brown

Drapers / JUnE 1 2013 _ 20

of shorts in five colours and four sizes, and tried to sell them. The brand made its debut online, but the first couple of years were tough. “It was quite a hand-to-mouth existence, with no salaries being paid for two years,” reveals Brown. “I started by myself, we got the product made, I was standing in a storage unit in Fulham Broadway ironing shorts, standing in queues in post offices doing all the customer exchanges. There was no one for two years, it was just me, I did everything. But that was the best way to learn every element of the business.”

all about womenswear, or indeed swimwear, with Brown revealing that the brand is looking at expanding existing categories. Two years ago, orlebar Brown developed its men’s offer to include T-shirts and polos, with non-swimwear now making up 55% of sales. “That’s definitely where the business is heading. we’ve moved off the beach and into the resort,” he says, adding that the brand is pushing shirts as it is seeing “real traction” in that category. THAT EXPANSION IS ALSO EVIDENT in the brand’s high summer collection, which is dropping into stores and has been inspired by the great resort hotels of miami such as The raleigh and the delano Hotel. This season the brand, which does use a house print but is more known for its block colours, has also teamed up with Gary malin, a photographer who takes aerial pictures of beaches, for a range of shorts. Coats are also new, with a hooded mac style called the Chandler in a variety of shades. Brown says so far the reaction from buyers has been overwhelmingly positive, with

wholesale orders and total sales up about 90% on the previous year, though he shies away from revealing the brand’s turnover. This is a world away from how the brand started back in 2007 when, following a career as a portrait photographer, Brown was inspired to launch orlebar Brown after attending a friend’s birthday weekend. “I was just looking around a pool – it was a friend’s 40th birthday with a whole mix of people: gay, straight, married, single, and the guys all of a certain age group were either wearing briefs or floral baggy boardshorts with their bums hanging out, which is maybe fine on a 17-year-old but maybe not on a man of 40,” he says. “Then we also had to go and change for lunch for the day, which I thought was a bit stupid, bearing in mind we were in a hotel. So the whole premise for orlebar Brown is that we’re a tailored approach to swim shorts. we’re not a swim short in a sports sense of the brand, but we’re a short you can swim in, and that was the inspiration.” Like many entrepreneurs he began the brand from his spare room, made 1,000 pairs

‘The guys were either wearing briefs or floral baggy boardshorts with their bums hanging out, which is maybe fine on a 17-year-old but maybe not on a man of 40’

THE SHOP AT BLUEBIRD on King’s road became its first wholesale stockist, with the likes of Selfridges, which Brown says was “hugely instrumental in the making of [the] business”, Fenwicks and Harrods following in the UK, Le Bon marché, merci and montaigne market in Paris, and Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys in the US. Today, wholesale represents around 45% of the business, with 30% of sales via the website, and the remainder through orlebar Brown’s three retail stores in London. However, Brown has no desire to own numerous stores, and says the business model will remain wholesale: “while retail has a role I don’t see us as a brand that is going to have 35 stores in London. not at all. I’d love to have a store in the US, in new York and miami, and I’d love to have a store in St Tropez if possible. Those sorts of key places.” The brand has also been successful overseas, with 30% of its sales coming from the US, with a localised website and distribution there, and similar sites in Australia, and Germany, for which it provides a German-speaking customer service. “next year the US is definitely a priority but I also think we need to start coming up with a strategy for how we launch in the Far East or do something,” Brown says of his plans to grow the brand overseas. He adds: “we haven’t really approached the Far East that much. Yes we’ve got a few wholesale accounts, such as [department store] Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, that we’ve been working with. But it’s a strategic decision you need to make when you’re ready for it. You’ve got to find the right partners for the brand. I don’t want to set it up to fail.” Brown says the brand has lots of work to do, having just made the transition from start-up to small brand, but he is confident about the future. He says: “There is so much room for growth and a whole range of opportunities we haven’t even begun. Have we looked at shoes? Have we looked at beach bags? Have we looked at sunglasses? Have we looked at any of those things? Surely that has to be an opportunity for us somewhere down the line, I would say.”

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K


SHOPWATCH

Love Brand & Co _ London

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 22

JOHn RYAn is Drapers’ stores editor and has a background in fashion buying. He has covered the sector for more than a decade

W

hat do elephants and men’s beachwear have in common? There’s a cheap joke here, but the answer would normally be very little. However, visit the new Love Brand & Co store just off London’s Fulham Road, in the ritzy borough of Kensington & Chelsea, and perhaps the connection will be made. The store sells luxury T-shirts and beach trunks for men and boys and donates 5% of the sales value to a trio of charities devoted to elephant conservation. Love Brand & Co director Oliver Tomalin cares about elephants, and is the force behind the brand’s foundation and the man responsible for the design of all the store’s merchandise. He also takes a very hands-on approach to the enterprise, standing behind the counter and greeting shoppers who find their way to this exclusive part of west London.

02

COnCEPT 

This is a very simple layout with the bulk of the stock displayed around the perimeter. As well as the bleached wood used for the perimeter open-fronted wardrobe fixturing, much of the interior has been painted white, adding to the fresh, natural feel. An iPad at the cash desk offers information about elephants and the brand. The black shopfront with gold font may make you think pub, but is a change from the tasteful minimalism of so many shops nearby.

01

VISUAL mERCHAnDISInG 

The small green elephant outside the shop provides a clue to the nature of the experience within. The two windows, featuring matching man and boy orange polo shirts and printed beach trunks displayed on rope clothes lines strung

between bleached wooden poles, also foster the idea that this is an ethical enterprise. The immediate sense is of a store that puts a strong emphasis on things natural. Inside, the same bleached wood theme is apparent around the

perimeter with stock displayed side hung or on untreated wooden tables and trays. Black-framed photographs of sun-kissed types on beaches and images of elephants help to create the link between the offer and the altruistic intent.


THE BASICS Address The Beach, 5 Park Walk, London SW10 Product And shoP design Oliver Tomalin chArities Elephant Family, david Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and Tusk Trust

03

5

It’s quite hard to go wrong if the owner/ manager/director is behind the counter and ready to advise on any aspect of the product and the shop. Tomalin is quite the jovial host. This is a posh shop, for which read luxury, in a posh part of London and there is a posh man behind all of it. In certain circumstances it could be off-putting, but such is Tomalin’s good nature that it seems immaterial and even when you’re being asked quite a lot of money for a pair of beach shorts it almost, almost, seems worth it.

Having visited Selfridges’ new men’s bodywear department last week, a quick comparison seems reasonable. In that emporium there are also printed shorts and some of them are cheaper than in the Love Brand & Co shop, but the printed shorts offer is actually smaller. This retail proposition may be

Room for improvement 01

Hard to see how this might be done, but prices look to be on the mildly wrong side of high. An entry price or two might not go amiss. 02

Being located off the western reaches of the Fulham Road may place this store in an affluent location but makes it quite hard to find. A concerted marketing push may prove necessary. 03

giving 5% of sales, rather than profits, is a lot. Perhaps donating a percentage of the profits might be a better way of making this shop flourish.

COmPETITIOn  local to Chelsea, but those walking through its door and prepared to spend this kind of money will also be ranging across most of central London and therefore the competition net is cast wide. On which basis, Love Brand & Co has tough competition, elephant charities notwithstanding.

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 23

SERVICE 

04

PRODUCT 

Shorts, T-shirts and polo shirts for men, and boys who want to look like them, and that’s about it. But the variety of printed bottoms is such that the niche nature of the enterprise does not worry. The design modus operandi is simple: printed bottoms and plain,

brightly coloured tops, all bearing the Love Brand & Co logo, which features a pair of trunk-touching elephants. None of this comes cheap though. For a pair of techno-nylon fibre printed shorts with a drawstring, the shopper is asked to shell out £119.

06

VERDICT THE PROSPECTS ARE gOOd

Positing a branded offer on making a link with charity has a relatively long history for brands, but an entire shop founded on the notion of giving a portion of the sales to selected causes is more unusual. To make this proposition viable, ticket prices have to be high – operating costs in this part of London tend to be on the high side and if 5% of the value of sales is going to charities, then volume may also have to form part of the equation. This is a good-looking shop, but making its mark in this relatively off-pitch location 33 50 may prove problematical.

For more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/ shopwatch


STITCH LONDON SORTED SS14 | 23 & 24 JULY

THE SORTING OFFICE

21 - 31 NEW OXFORD STREET LONDON WC1A 1BA WWW.STITCH-LONDON.COM

Stitch London SS14 will have four clear sections; Menswear, Womenswear, Streetwear and Emerging. Each area will boast a carefully selected range of brands that showcase the best in the market.

Visit us: Stand C05

CoNtoUr FashioN

Monday 3 June at 6.30pm Theatre B

FashioN DesigN

Tuesday 4 June at 2pm Theatre A

T 0116 257 7555 E adhevents@dmu.ac.uk W dmu.ac.uk/gfw

facebook.com/dmucreative twitter.com/art_and_design

FashioN DesigN

We are Creativity We are DMU

CoNtoUr FashioN

FOR ANY FURTHER ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT JENNAGH DELANEY ON JD@STITCH-LONDON.COM


DIRECTIONS

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 25

Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now

This week’s hero

GENETIC DENIM Launched in California in 2006, womenswear brand Genetic Denim is well established in the US but lesser known in the UK. Autumn 13 will change that, with an international push and a relaunch here. Merging sharp fits with interesting prints and premium fabrics including soft leather, foamy neoprene and the softest denim, the new collection has up to 65 styles to choose from. Wholesale prices range from £65 to £150. Contact: 020 7725 5700 www.geneticdenim.com


THE BUZZ / Fashion foreword /

Let’s hear it for fashion talents’ supporting acts

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 26

G

_ Ian Wright

ive a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime, goes the now pretty hackneyed Chinese proverb. But while it may be rather overused, it still rings true when applied to the sort of support young designers need in the UK. Next week sees Graduate Fashion Week kick off (see our preview starting on p45), one of a significant group of events and organisations that exist to give a leg up to those with potential, skill and drive. For the 2013 edition, the organisers have introduced a mentoring section and it is here that most designers will need help. Throwing money at any fashion talent is a waste if they don’t know what to do with it. And there’s no better way to illustrate the importance of support instead of cash than the turnout for the Centre for Fashion Enterprise’s (CFE) 10th anniversary last week. Among those in attendance at The Dorchester was a raft of CFE alumni and current London Fashion Week and London Collections: Men mainstays including the Peter Pilotto guys, Louise Gray, Holly Fulton, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou, Agi & Sam, Simone Rocha, Matthew Miller, Eudon Choi and more, all of whom had stopped by to congratulate director Wendy Malem and her team for the sterling work they do to nurture the stars of the future. It was notable too that throughout Malem’s speech on the night, the amount of times she mentioned funding could be counted on one hand, as she chose to instead concentrate on the variety of people at companies such as Pentland, Olswang and London College of Fashion who give up their valuable time and resources to educate those lucky few on the CFE scheme. I only wish there were more just like it... Read more about the CFE in our interview with Wendy Malem at www.drapersonline.com/CFE

Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com

Don’t forget! Look out for...

COLLAB WATCH — Asos Black x Puma Etailer Asos has teamed up with Puma again for autumn 13, with a 26-piece menswear collection. Combining Puma’s sports performance credentials with Asos Black’s boundary-pushing designs, the collection makes the most of both brands’ talents with bold ombré panels and oversized polka dots on sleek shirts and transitional sporty outerwear options – all at wallet-friendly prices. The range will be available exclusively at Asos from June 10.

/ Trendwatch /

Bottega Veneta

Dior Cruise

Students yarn for school prizes The winners of the 2013 Wool School initiative have been announced. The Campaign for Wool-backed scheme sees students submit design entries, and winners paired up with retailers and brands. Names including Christopher Raeburn (below), Barbour, Marks & Spencer and Topshop have taken part, each of which will work with, make and sell one winner’s designs. The theme, ‘knitwear traditions of the British Isles’, should see patriotic pullovers drop in time for Wool Week in October. For the full list of winners, visit www.drapersonline.com/fashion

Chanel Cruise

RESORT SEASON

The latest resort pre-collections show designers have another trick up their sleeves. Capped and curved shoulders make a statement, as grand sculptural shapes reinvent classic silhouettes.

WANT MORE? Visit www.drapersonline.com for more fashion news, views and images than you can shake your mouse at

SNAP HAPPY Follow us on Instagram (@Drapers_Magazine) for sneak previews as spring 14 kicks off


21 -2 3 J U LY 20 13 PHILLIPS GALLERY HOWI C K PL ACE , LOND ON

— &—

SA ATCHI GALLERY KING’S ROAD, LONDON

scoop-international.com Gosha Ostretsov, Sex in the City, 2008 (c) Stephen White, 2012 Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London


THE STYLE COUNCIL I DIRECTIONS

Hollie Reid Since GFW I’ve spent some time abroad in the US and have worked on a number of small design projects for charity Blackpool Food Bank and other companies who I’ve maintained relationships with since my placement year. I’ve also developed and launched my own small handmade accessory brand Northern Goods Co (pictured) with my fiancé and fellow UCLan graduate Matthew Pike.

Chloe Jones It’s been a crazy year. Last summer (GFW, pictured) was very busy – moving down to London permanently and starting work straight away with George at Asda, where it was really exciting to see my range come out in January. While I was there I also designed a capsule collection for spring/summer as part of the G21 Talent project.

This week’s panel

CHLOE JONES Bath Spa University, winner of the Gold Award

KAREN JESSEN ESMOD Berlin, winner of the International Award

HOLLIE REID University of Lancashire, winner of the Barclays New Business Award

KERRIE DONNELLY UCA Epsom, winner of the Media and Design Award

Karen Jessen I found a job as a lecturer for pattern making and tailoring at ESMOD Berlin. I was also exhibiting my collection (GFW, pictured) in different places in Germany, as well as Vienna and a second time in London at Pure. I won sponsorship for my show at Berlin Fashion Week in January and started to extend my diploma collection to fill a whole show, partnering with my friend Anna Bach to launch the label Benu Berlin. We’ve just moved to a new studio and are developing the concept.

Kerrie Donnelly I was really lucky to have secured a full-time job in the industry pretty soon after GFW, at Radiator PR. I had a few interviews in the weeks after the awards and I had some amazing feedback off the back of my win. I started working with Radiator at the end of August and I’ve learned so much and feel incredibly lucky to be working with brands I’ve loved for years, including Puffa (pictured).

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 29

What have you been doing since Graduate Fashion Week 2012?


DIRECTIONS I BRANDWATCH

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 30

Lace, print and texture all have their place in the debut autumn 13 collection

Tabitha Webb

The former Project D designer’s label has a more sophisticated look yet retains a down-to-earth Britishness, says IAN WRIGHT THE BASICS WHOLESALE PRICES £95 to £309 (2.7 mark-up) WEBSITE www.tabithawebb.co.uk CONTACT 020 8772 1443

A

rchetypal dress brands usually bring to mind either slightly trashy, body-con, peplumy numbers or statuesque, red-carpet eveningwear, with little in between. Tabitha Webb fills that void. Set up by Webb, former designer of womenswear label Project D, the brand picks up where the Dannii Minogue-partnered label left off but takes a more sophisticated direction. Lace, print and texture all feature in the autumn 13 collection (available to buy now) but all are used in a neater, more precise way than in Webb’s previous work. But this is no knockedtogether, knee-jerk reaction post-Project D – she maintains it was always meant to be. “It just felt like the right time. The demand was there for what I was doing and people wanted to see what we could create,” she says.

“Tabitha Webb is a very British fashion house born out of my love of London, where I’ve lived for years, and Cornwall, where I escape the pandemonium.” This duality is seen in a collection that offers something for everyone. “We have the thorn print, which is an edgier, younger print, and then the amethyst flower print, which is more vintage and less intimidating to wear. We’ve also worked in leather, which gives the collection two defining looks: the softer, easier look and the harder, more structured look,” reveals Webb. Cut too is important, as Georgina Coulter, womenswear buyer at key stockist My-Wardrobe.com, explains: “Tabitha focuses on the woman’s body so the fit is well thought out to create the perfect silhouette.” Other stockists already include Harvey Nichols online, Saks Dubai and indie Question Air, as the brand gears up for a “sportier, edgier” pre-spring 14 collection sold through Fourmarketing and a spring 14 collection inspired by Webb’s Cornish heritage.

For every occasion: the collection fills the void between peplumy and red carpet dresses


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SEASON’S PREVIEW I DIRECTIONS

For more brand previews and images, visit www.drapersonline.com/ seasonspreview

Spring 14

Menswear Brands delve into their archives and the UK’s cultural heritage for their new collections

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 33

Words by EMILY NORVAL

HARDY AMIES

Mehmet Ali Design director

BARBOUR

Ian Bergin Head of menswear Design Our key story features equestrian and fishing styles. We’ve designed garments using fishing and Tattersall prints as linings and co-ordinated with colour in shirts and light Fair Isle knitwear. Colours Alongside our classic colours, this season sees an injection of colour through our collaborations with [Savile Row tailor] Norton & Sons and [colour authority] Pantone. Bold orange, yellow and green feature alongside pinks, reds, blues and greens. In our heritage collections, we’ve used a

Morse code print inspired by Barbour’s military heritage. Fabrics Wax cotton, quilting and corduroy continue to feature strongly, complemented by new lighter-weight unlined fabrics, soft shirtings and cotton knitwear. Silhouettes Our equestrian heritage is celebrated with tailored jackets, Tattersall linings and co-ordinated shirts and knitwear. In Barbour International, we look to our motorcycling heritage to create collections with a biker look. Prices No change.

Design We began the season looking at the work of [graphic designer] Saul Bass, particularly his Hitchcock film posters of the 1950s. There’s a 1940s and 1950s sensibility within the collection. Modern military is another theme we build on each season. Tailoring takes inspiration from the Bass concept, with the inclusion of stripes, and from Hardy Amies himself, with updates of classic Savile Row shapes. Colours Red, blue and teal green highlight Hardy Amies’ staples

of navy, military green and bone. Fabrics Basket weave and open weave fabrics are key. Hopsacks and canvases in outerwear and high-twist dry wool tropical weaves in light summer weights in tailoring. Silhouettes The db patch-pocket jacket is a signature piece, coming through in a six-button in suiting and four-button in jacketing. In outerwear our slim bluff fourpocket military jacket is an updated signature style.   Prices No change.


DIRECTIONS I SEASON’S PREVIEW

LAVENHAM

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 34

Olivia Bassett Designer

Design Our theme for spring 14 is the seaside villages of Suffolk, encompassing the colours of the beach huts in Southwold. Colours This season we’re using a natural palette with bright accents. Fabrics Key fabrics for spring 14 include sanded canvas, cotton checks and bright chambrays. Silhouettes Our Lexham style is key in a rugged sanded canvas, quilted without an interlining and with accents of a bright chambray. We hope this will give our customers lightweight functional garments for use from spring to autumn. Prices No change from last season.

BRUTUS

Jonathan Freedman Owner and creative director  Design A key design theme is the British suedehead look from the early 1970s. The look is softer than the skinhead look and the idea is that the wearer is immaculately smart and fits in anywhere, yet has a working-class edge. It’s all about attention to detail. It’s a non-exclusive yet aspirational look, which came from American Ivy League clothing but was adapted for British city living. This is classic men’s style that needs to be worn with old-school confidence and a cheeky smile. Colours We went for some bold tartan checks and lots of rich colours. Fabrics Our customer wants a sharp, hard-wearing and easy-care shirt so we’ve developed a poly-cotton that is breathable and will still look fresh at the end of a big night out. Silhouettes The silhouette is slim-fit, which is young yet classic, and the best-fitting shirts with a high button-down collar. Prices No change.

GABICCI Karen Donnelly Designer  Design The design theme this season is very much influenced by the mod style synonymous with the Gabicci brand, with inspiration coming from our heritage pieces. Colours The key colours for spring 14 are the classics: navy,

white, red and stone with strong highlights of canary yellow,  cobalt blue, fig pink and bright green. Fabrics Fabrics are crisp cotton wovens and knits, trimmed with the trademark mock suede. Retro mini-print designs complement the

plains and small checks of previous styles. Silhouettes The silhouette is fitted and sharp, demonstrated in slim-fit suits and shirts, button-through collared cardigans and simple polo shirts. Prices Maintained where possible.


FTCT_TICT Draper Half Horizontal.pdf

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NEED A HELPING HAND? Are changes at home affecting your child’s education? Do you need a helping hand to support your child’s special needs? A small grant from the Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust can make a big difference. For more information on how to apply please visit www.ftct.org.uk or call us in confidence on 020 7170 4117

educational grants

help with special needs

FTCT is the only charity that supports the children of families who work in the fashion and textile industry.

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DIRECTIONS I SEASON’S PREVIEW

Spring 14

Young fashion Collegiate sports, youth sub-cultures, Congo’s dandy sapeurs and antique maps are just some of the influences

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 36

Words by EMILY NORVAL

UCLA CLOTHING

Victoria Hunt Designer

Design This season the main theme running through the collection is a collegiate varsity and sports team trend, which runs across the men’s and women’s collections. We looked at retro sports kits including basketball, baseball and American football, all of which have influenced this season. Colours We always keep our colour palette true to UCLA with its team colours of blue and yellow, as well as heritage and summer brights. This season, key colours are vivid greens and bright purples. Fabrics Fabrics remain our signature fleeces and jerseys, complemented by fabrics reflecting the sports theme. Silhouettes Key silhouettes have grown from the sports team trend with oversize football tees, baggy basketball shorts and long mesh vests. These are styles we always include in our collection but with the team trend becoming so big it’s been a great chance to expand on our already classic designs. Prices No change.

WEEKEND OFFENDER

Sarah Mellor Head designer Design Sub-cultures remain key; we don’t follow trends, we hint at them while remaining loyal to our key influences. Jackets are a major part of the collection: important looks are bomber styles with rib trim and the heavily printed ‘dove’ lining detail. Knitwear themes are bold mixes of summer shades. Colours Citrus and laid-back summery tones are part of our new sun-bleached washes. Prints are

bright and vivid with tropical island parrots and the signature crowns and doves.  Fabrics All knitwear is 100% cotton with jackets in lightweight nylon. New is a lighter-weight loop-back fleece for a summer option. Silhouettes Harrington and bomber-style jackets dominate. We’ve also introduced slim-fit pants in denim and cotton. Prices Our pursuit of quality is reflected in our prices.

FARAH VINTAGE

James Pearce-Roberts and Bonnie Highcazony Head of design development and designer

Design Farah Vintage turns global trailblazer. Layering prints on prints, outfits read like a passport of travels. Bold African prints sit with verdant

flora and fauna camouflages and hand-drawn prints. Influence came from the way the dandy sapeurs of the Congo express creativity through their outfitting – combined with Farah’s eye for detail and British urban roots. Colours We’re really pleased with the print offer. Each piece has been commissioned from young artists from around the UK. Fabrics Lightweight, low-tech, layered. Silhouettes While tops become looser, bottoms remain slim. This is a nod to the story that inspired the collection and reflects a move away from super-slim silhouettes. Prices Most are unchanged.


DIRECTIONS I SEASON’S PREVIEW

YUMI

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 38

Clare Nepal Creative director Design We have four trends: Preppy Pixel will be quirky and full of humour; Upcycled Traveller is inspired by antique maps and travellers’ curios; Quixotic is inspired by South American culture and patterns; and Midnight Jungle continues this theme into the night, with a variety of party pieces. Colours Preppy Pixel has a primary palette with pastel highlights. Upcycled Traveller sees sandy neutrals offset with light blue and coral. Quixotic and Midnight Jungle

use rich rainbow colours. Fabrics Cotton voiles and feminine broderie anglaise for high summer. Our knitwear is particularly strong. Silhouettes Fit-andflare prom dresses are still key. Our musthave silhouette is the racer-front cut-out dresses. We are also very excited about our lightweight tweed jackets. Prices No change.

WRANGLER

Sean Gormley Head of design Design Denim Performance updates Wrangler’s legacy of functional clothing, and this season’s theme is to keep cool. Wrangler also celebrates the 25th anniversary of its iconic regular fit, Texas, by launching a super-tough version. In women’s, Wrangler Denim Spa moisturises skin as you wear your jeans. Colours Wrangler’s key colour palette in spring 14 is called Proud to be Blue. An expanded blue range from deep, dark indigo through to electric blues and turquoise embodies the trend. A Western theme is evident in all-over prints. Fabrics For Denim Performance, Wrangler has created a denim fabric called Coolmax, which wicks moisture away from the body. For the 25th anniversary edition of the Texas, a fabric called Toughmax is introduced, which is much stronger than typical denim. Silhouettes The straight silhouette for men leads the way, while in women’s the mid-rise skinny fit is key. Prices No change.

ALPHA INDUSTRIES

Rainer Knapp Creative director and owner of Alpha Industries Europe Design Washed and vintage looks combined with bright colours on some of our classic core items, like the MA-1 and M-65 [jackets], will give this season a “fresh military” note. MA-1 and MA1 TTs have been central to the collection and will come in a special summer edition, in reversible styles and different colours and materials. Our main inspiration comes from our Alpha Industries archive in Knoxville, Tennessee. Colours Our key colours will be coloured camouflage in different

shades such as marine blue, while bright, vibrant colours including tomato red, hot blue and yolk yellow will also be important. Our classics – green, orange and blue – will have a place in the new collection. Fabrics Our main fabrics are classic flight nylon, nyco satin and a special two-tone nylon that offers different waxed qualities. Silhouettes The key silhouette shape will be slim. Prices There have been no changes to the pricing policy.


Drapers June 13 issue:Layout 1

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DIRECTIONS I SEASON’S PREVIEW

Spring 14

Womenswear

Movie influences and vibrant colours and patterns mean spring 14’s collections are sure to turn heads Words by EMILY NORVAL

OLSEN

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 40

Lorenzo Cassis Head of design

BARBOUR

Sarah Lawrenson Head of womenswear and childrenswear Design Looking to our British country heritage for inspiration, our key design story features Barbour’s authentic dress tartan. We’ve developed a feminine, summer version of this iconic plaid and found new ways to use it within garments such as linen dresses, shorts and soft knits. Colours Our traditional palette is complemented with soft washed tones of dusky pink and dusty green while our Dress Tartan collection features mineral red

and cloud blue on a cream base. Fabrics Our iconic fabrications of wax cotton, quilting and corduroy feature strongly, but these are complemented by new lighter-weight fabrics including linens and cotton. Silhouettes Our Barbour International brand looks to our motorcycling heritage and garments to inspire our sexy new summer biker jackets and knitwear. Prices We’ve maintained our price positioning.

Design A key trend for next summer will be a nautical theme featuring anchors, studs and photo prints. Another inspiration is a trip to India and Africa, with the emphasis on bright colours and patterns. Colours We’ll start the summer collections with black, which will gradually filter through to different shades of denim. This will be followed by vibrant shades, such as azalea, lemon and turquoise. Around mid-summer these colours will be joined by pretty pastels such as vanilla, mint and rosé. Fabrics Denim fabrics will round off the maritime trend beautifully and there will be linen and lightweight materials such as silk. Jackets and trousers remain patched, and metallic coatings are a highlight. Silhouettes Still skinny for the legs, with oversized tops. Prices No change.

GANNI

Ditte Reffstrup Creative director Design We wanted to capture the perfect Hollywood glamorous hippy, so we looked towards Faye Dunaway, especially her Bonnie and Clyde era and the 1970s. She mixed luxurious Hollywood style with the free spirit of the time. Colours Classic black and cream are the basics. Strawberry red, army green, strong chilli, taupe, mauve, classic navy blue and green add a sophisticated, almost botanical layer. Prints go from powerful botanical to delicately hand-drawn rose prints. Fabrics Goat leather, printed cashmere, heavy embroidered Tencel and seersucker silk.  Silhouettes We focused on the female figure, accentuating waist and chest for an understated sexy look. Several styles have shoulder pads to accentuate an often overlooked feature. Prices We’ve broadened our price variation, and this will continue over the next couple of seasons.


TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT CONTACT RYAN HENRY T: 07787 108 426 E: rhenry@ morley1795.com morley1795.com


DIRECTIONS I season’s preview

Sandwich

Drapers / JUne 1 2013 _ 42

The design team

Design This spring Sandwich celebrates life in all its beauty.  Trousers are never a simple basic and this season they are printed or dyed or have a handcrafted embroidery feature. Also, the bomber jacket is key. Colours Colours are bright and there are touches of neon, combined with different tones of grey and chalk white. Fabrics Tweeds, knits and cottons. This season we’ve experimented with different combinations of fabric washings and unique prints. Silhouettes It’s all about silhouettes and layering this season. Even single items differ in length. Prices No change.

LaurèL

Elisabeth Schwaiger Head designer

Edwin

Pascale Koehl Womenswear head designer Design The denim line is the foundation of this collection and offers five different fits. For example, the regular authentic cut in raw blue denim and skinny fits in power stretch. A wider selection is available this season with more options in materials, treatments and colours. The spring 14 collection is led by the iconic female figures of 1970s and 1980s road movies (Sissy Spacek in Terrence Malick’s Badlands, Laurie Bird in Two-Lane Blacktop by Monte Hellman), who are odes to freedom, dreams and adventure. Colours Incorporating Hawaiian prints and jacquard knits. Fabrics Cottons, Japanese fabrics and stretch denims. Silhouettes Drawn by a mixture of prints and unexpected juxtapositions. These visual pieces are accompanied by monochrome looks. Prices No drastic changes.

Design With our spring 14 collection, we’re taking a trip through Asia. The traditional kimono shape appears in varied dresses. The Asian influence is also translated to exotic colours, fabrics and patterns. The ‘most wanted’ piece will be our Laurèl ID dress, a knee-length dress with bat sleeves that evolved to be our customers’ favourite in the current season and will have a new look with decoration, cut-out elements and prints. Colours Pink and coral inspired us, contrasted with neutral shades like almond, ecru and navy. Highlights are strong colour combinations such as lime green and magenta. Fabrics We use highquality triacetate fabrics that are travel-safe and offer comfort next to elegance. We also use a lot of jacquards, silk satins and cotton silk voile. Silhouettes A touch of 1950s couture and an Asian influence will be perceptible in the silhouette. Prices No change.


We go wherever FASHION takes us

Discover Voisins Department Store Ltd The oldest family-run department store in Britain The premier house of brands in the Channel Islands Who will be next to join us? ANY EXCUSE | www.voisins.com


“For a career in fashion, GCU is an absolute essential.� JOSH COTTRELL MSc International Fashion Marketing CRM Team at the Arcadia Group

Postgraduate programmes with GCU With professionally affiliated courses and a worldwide reputation, GCU London brings together fashion, business, marketing and retailing like no other university. Offering the first industry driven International Fashion Marketing degree and the only MBA in Luxury Brand Marketing in the UK, GCU London is creating future leaders in the fashion industry. To find more, come along to our Postgraduate Open Day on 26th June, or visit www.gculondon.ac.uk

Brighter futures begin with GCU. Graduate University Campus, GCU London, 40 Fashion Street, London E1 6PX. Glasgow Caledonian University is a registered Scottish charity, number SC021474


Visit Drapers Online to see more previews from the student collections www.drapersonline.com

GRADUATE FASHION WEEK 2013 I DIRECTIONS

CLARE SHARPE De Montfort University

ANNA KIM Istituto Marangoni London

Graduate Fashion Week Preview Get an exclusive first look at the future stars showing off their talent at this year’s event Compiled by GRAEME MORAN

SARAH GOODWIN Kingston University

KATHRYN HEWITSON Northumbria University

MARK GLASGOW Manchester School of Art

LAURA STOECKL Istituto Marangoni London

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 45

MADELEINE AYERS Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication


DIRECTIONS I GRADUATE FASHION WEEK 2013 ELIZABETH ARTHUR De Montfort University

AMY DAVIDSON Manchester School of Art

ERSALINA LIM Istituto Marangoni London

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 46

MIRANDA KALE Northumbria University

PATRICIA WILLIAMS Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication CARMINA BLANK Esmod Berlin

BRYONY MOSS De Montfort University

SARAH MORAN De Montfort University

JENNY DIEDERICH Nottingham Trent University

LYDIA MELLOR Northumbria University


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GRADUATE FASHION WEEK 2013 I DIRECTIONS

SUSANNA TATEVOSYAN University of West London

VICKIE SCHOFIELD Northumbria University

Kathryn Hewitson, Elizabeth Arthur, Miranda Kale, Juliana Ramos Siqueira: photographer, Tung Walsh; stylist, Sara Gilmour

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 49

NATALIA TROITSKAYA Istituto Marangoni London

JESSICA WILSON University of Salford AMY GEE University of Huddersfield

STEPHANIE WOOD Manchester School of Art

JULIANA RAMOS SIQUEIRA Istituto Marangoni London

MICHAEL JAMES Arts University Bournemouth


DIRECTIONS I gradUatE fashioN wEEk 2013

Fiona Lambert

Natalie Kingham

Brand director, George at Asda

International womenswear buyer, Matches

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 50

The students of today are the emerging talent of tomorrow and the industry’s lifeblood. George is a huge supporter of [future] stars and this is cemented through our GFW sponsorship.

as a buyer there are few more exciting moments for me than discovering something new. the platform we give to developing talent in London sets us apart from every other fashion capital, and it’s something i’m passionate about. the highlight is always the element

‘It’s the future of UK fashion’ Some of the event’s judges, trustees and supporters on why Graduate Fashion Week is so important to the industry Compiled by GRAEME MORAN

Rob Templeman

Chairman, Graduate Fashion Week

i think it’s more important than ever for the fashion industry to support gfw. with 16 international universities involved this year and many businesses expanding internationally, it’s the only place to recruit emerging talent from both British and international fashion courses. i urge anyone within the industry to attend; not only will you find some fantastic forwardthinking talent, you could also make a big difference in tackling the issue of youth unemployment by helping graduates find their first step on the careers ladder – this generation are not only our future employees but also our future customers! gfw is known for launching the careers of many including stella McCartney, alexander McQueen and Christopher Bailey.

of the unexpected – seeing new designers emerge with a distinct point of view and an aesthetic that feels wholly new. the dynamism and energy of gfw never fails to inspire me and i’m very much looking forward to seeing what this year’s graduates have to offer.

Hilary Alexander Journalist and GFW trustee

it’s important to be part of gfw for many reasons. first, it’s exciting; it’s the biggest event of its type in the world; and it’s a chance to see, first-hand, the future of British fashion through the work of hundreds of students, who will go on to work not just as designers but in the jobs which are the backbone of the industry, in, for example, manufacturing, fabric technology, tailoring, pattern cutting, merchandising, and, of course, the retail sector.

Colin McDowell Journalist and GFW trustee

Carmen Borgonovo

Fashion director, My-Wardrobe.com

GFW is an important platform for retailers and editors to spot young, emerging talent at an early stage. We look for those who understand their customer and have a strong identity. I look forward to seeing what GFW presents not only for us as a retailer and champion of young talent but also as a consumer.

although currently there is a seemingly unavoidable concentration by press and manufacturing on the London colleges and their Mas, fashion is a subject studied in colleges across the country and it’s important we have gfw to remind us of this. i’ve never subscribed to the prejudice that the regions are secondary to London in spirit and achievement. the hope behind gfw is that young graduates will be spotted by people whose job it is to nurture, promote and mentor fresh creativity no matter where it has been developed and that’s why it’s important for those involved with fashion at all levels and from all regions to see and be seen at this annual talent-fest.

GRADUATE FASHION WEEK takes place from June 2 to June 5 2013, at Earls Court 2 in London. For full details, see www.gfw.org.uk


THIS FASHION LIFE I DIRECTIONS

‘Four years of red is enough ... We are in a time of blue as water is the new global concern’ ➝

What content will people find? Insight and analysis on how colour is breaking across different industries, geographies and cultures worldwide, right now as well as five years from now. Subscribers get access to a community of global colour experts, inside scoops from key industry leaders and invitations to webinars and live events where you can hear directly from the editorial team and special guests. Where do colour trends come from? First there are mega factors: in the early 1990s, we were talking ‘eco’ for the first time in a big way, which led us to the ‘green’ decade. Now we are in a time of ‘blue’ because water is the new global concern. Then there are the questions of cycles; things always come back into fashion. There are also cultural influences: events, films etc. But the biggest influence in trends is power and authority. How far ahead do colour trends work? Once upon a time, we used to work to strict timetables of yarns to fabric to clothing to retail. Now, it’s all about speed to market, quick response and flexibility. You need to think colours at two levels. The first lies in the sense of long-term direction. Are we in a period of bright colour, pastel, or metallic? What are the long-term social trends? What is the zeitgeist: masculine or feminine, speeding up or slowing down? The second lies in short-term trends or ‘stars’, which have maximum visual impact but no staying power – like fluo orange, purple or turquoise. Is there any colour you think is overused and would like to see less of? I have to say red. Not that I dislike red, but four years of it in all its hues from scarlet to coral to oxblood is enough. Which is the most iconic colour from the last century? If I had to choose one colour it would be black, from Henry Ford’s “You can have any colour you like, just so long as it’s black”, to that little black dress! What’s the best part about your job? Travelling and meeting people. Also the fact that things never stand still: I’m in a business that’s always moving on, evolving and changing.

David Shah

Colour bible Pantone’s publisher tells EMILY NORVAL about its new website and why black was the last century’s iconic colour

What can you tell us about the Pantone View concept? Pantone and Metropolitan Publishing have been publishing colour forecast book Pantone View Colour Planner twice a year for 16 years to give colour direction to a range of industries. The Pantoneview.com website was a response to demand for a more continuous stream of critical and credible colour information – especially in recent years as colour has become the catalyst of design.

To read an extended version of David Shah’s interview, visit www.drapersonline.com/fashion/people

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 51


Are you ready for the Consumer Revolution? Enabling technology has transformed the face of modern retail. Consumers are more connected, more aware and crucially for the first time in control. Retailers are now overrun by consumer demand it’s happening everywhere – in store, at work, in the pub, on the bus, even on the sofa!

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Our award winning multichannel commerce platform Redfish EPiServer delivers solutions that create a brand experience, responding directly to the needs and requirements of the consumer. We can help capture, engage and retain more customers with powerful yet agile technology that can respond to the rapidly changing marketplace.

At least 25% of web traffic is currently from mobile devices and we predict that by 2014 this figure will be in excess of 40%. 82% of shoppers refer to social communities before purchasing and Sky, Zeebox and others will shortly deliver targeted promotions. The imminent release of Xbox One we believe is yet another game changer as Microsoft respond to voracious consumer appetites with a device that will facilitate gaming, live TV, online movies and video calling - all with the ability to personalise and share.

The success stories of 2013 will be those who do not let themselves be overwhelmed but embrace and respond to evolving trends. Don’t follow blindly - take back control and re-platform now! www.wmps.com +44 (0)845 862 0416 marcust@wmps.com

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH

CUSTOMER INSIGHT I ROUNDTABLE

Good relations

How are retailers winning spend in a crowded market? A selection of industry experts aired their views on connecting with the customer both online and in store

N

o matter how retailers choose to interact and reach out to their consumers, whether it be across multiple channels or via the use of innovative in-store technology, it will be those that offer a well-differentiated product and personalised service that prosper. This was the overarching message among delegates from the likes of department stores John Lewis and Harrods, and womenswear chains Topshop and Oasis, in attendance at Drapers’ Customer Insight roundtable on May 15, held at The May Fair Hotel in London in association with consumer insight and data provider Kantar Media Compete and digital marketing, ecommerce and website design agency WMpS. Drapers’ Customer Insight report found that a 31% majority of consumers buy clothing every two to three months, with 61% citing value as the deciding factor over which retailer to shop with and 41% describing a discount as an incentive to splash out on a new brand. Despite this, the delegates were adamant that retailers and brands shouldn’t get caught up in discounting, and that instead they should add value via first-rate customer service, with great product at the core. Douglas Hood, owner of brand management consultancy Outside Looking In, argued that consumers are “swamped by great product”

‘When’s the last time someone went into Prada, Luis Vuitton or Gucci and got a discount? Never. The big word is aspiration’ Douglas Hood, owner, Outside Looking In

‘If you’ve got a great product that’s great, but everything has to live up around it. So it’s got to be the whole journey’ Jill Smethers, head of marketing, East

and retailers must get their proposition right. “I always go back to product and service. I think if you’ve got those two things right then you have a chance to survive. It’s very difficult for all of us at this time,” he said. Anna Bance, founder of designer dress rental website Girl Meets Dress, agreed and said that simply resorting to discounting can confuse a brand or retailer’s proposition. Claire Goodman, customer relationship manager at womenswear chain LK Bennett, echoed this: “It’s hard because you see the incremental sales come in after discounts and then you realise it’s hitting your profit line, so you have to weigh up the benefits.” She added that when LK Bennett discounts, it experiences a dip in sales the following week, so in effect all it is doing is “moving sales forward by a week”.

Jill Smethers, head of marketing at fellow womenswear retailer East, said while many consumers now expect discounts and are prepared to hold out for them, retailers should stop short of shouting about discounting. However, she added that it is about more than just product: “If you’ve got a great product that’s great, but everything has to live up around it. It’s got to be the whole journey, the store environment, the service, the afterservice, the communication; not just that initial conversion.” Hood argued that for high-end brands especially, discounting can be damaging. “When’s the last time someone went into Prada, Luis Vuitton or Gucci and got a discount? Never. The big word is aspiration. If a consumer aspires to have that product they will pay by hell or high water to have it,” he said. Sean McKee, head of ecommerce at footwear retailer Schuh agreed and described discounting as a “race to the bottom”. He said: “We’ve chosen to draw our battle lines in a completely different place: service. So if you want free delivery we’ll give you free delivery, but it will be on full-price product; if you want efficient returns, fine, but it will be on full-price product. And for us it’s fulfilment rather than discounting.” Relevance, such as targeting consumers with promotions based on their previous shopping habits, was a key theme of the discussion. “I think you’ve got to look at your data because

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 53

Words by JAMES KNOWLES


ROUNDTABLE I CUSTOMER INSIGHT

‘You’ve got to look at your data. There will be customers that want discounts and customers that will buy regardless’

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 54

Claire Goodman, CRM manager, LK Bennett

‘Historically the retailer did things to the customer. Now the customer is doing technology and is better informed’ Sean McKee, head of ecommerce, Schuh

‘For me the jury is out on kiosks. I wonder if that tech will be leapfrogged by tablets and customers with their smartphones’ Iain MacDonald, multichannel marketing director, Crew Clothing

there will be customers that are buying and want a discount and there will be customers that will buy regardless. So you need to understand what the data tells you,” said Goodman. Marcus Thrall, senior business consultant at WMpS, agreed. “It’s about offering people the product and the service that ticks all their channels that they want to be engaged in. By leveraging online and offline direct marketing smartly, we can not only engage our customers personally but deliver dramatically higher sales. To me that is good retail,” he said. However, Mark Lewis, head of omnichannel programmes at John Lewis, wondered when a retailer reaches the point of holding too much data and the relationship becomes intrusive. David Hathiramani, co-founder of etailer A Suit That Fits, agreed that failing to send relevant emails can be a turn-off for consumers.

“If you get spammed by one, email is less important to you in general because you’ve got so many coming through. In the early days of the internet I used to open all emails I got and now mainly it’s just noise.” However, Bance asked how many newsletters it is right to send, noting that Girl Meets Dress has increased its own mailouts after noticing they increased traffic and sales. “We were doing one a week and now we’re doing two a week, and I’m getting some every day from some retailers. And if the response is good for every newsletter it’s tempting to do them more and more.” The delegates agreed that so long as communications are targeted and relevant then consumers don’t mind. Margaret Hung, managing director, international, at Kantar Media Compete, said: “The discussion about

relevance, segmentation and going back to basics does really resonate, because that’s what the consumer research proves. There is still a lot of work to be done to refine the industry’s understanding of how different mediums should be best used to communicate.” She added: “Communications are inundating people and it’s because marketers aren’t sure what the best practices are in terms of frequency, how often and how you should be using the different communication tools.” THERE WAS ALSO DEBATE around the effectiveness of in-store technologies. Iain MacDonald, multichannel marketing director at lifestyle retailer Crew Clothing, said introducing tablets into stores two years ago has been “fantastic” for smaller shops that carry a smaller range, while Lewis added that click-and-collect has been a success at John Lewis. However, he added: “For me the jury is out on kiosks. I almost wonder if that’s going to be a tech that is totally leapfrogged by tablets and customers enabled with their smartphones so they can do that interaction themselves.” McKee agreed: “Our experience is that you can make it look very sexy but you can’t get a customer to engage with it for any length of time. No matter how useful the job, just getting them to linger long enough to do the job is very difficult. The reality is they own technology that will always be a bit sexier than what the retailer can provide. So I think for me the future is enabling their own technology, which will be cheaper and will be more relevant anyway.” And it’s not just consumers becoming more enabled, but staff too, said Mike Anderson, managing director of WMpS. “Irrespective of our marketing, customers come into a fashion store for the pleasure and reassurance of trying something on. Supporting the sales assistant with a tablet or iPhone that provides general style advice complemented with personalised recommendations transforms the customer experience from simply one that takes orders to providing a true personal shopping experience. Customers will come back as a consequence.” The retailers were also keen to discuss consumer engagement around social media channels. Drapers’ report found that Facebook is the social platform of choice for engagement around fashion, at 53%, followed by Twitter at 15%. However, this itself throws up its own challenges, forcing retailers to remain vigilant in regards to customer service 24/7. McKee echoed this point: “Historically the retailer did things to the customer and they just had to be grateful depending on the retailer they were dealing with. But now the customer is doing technology to the retailer and is better informed than the retailer. So that will raise the bar and is good for the industry; but it’s challenging in the short term.”


CLIMBING THE LADDER I CAREERS

How I got here _ Fiona Marston ➝ What does your diary look

like today? Eclectic, to say the least. As I’m directing all areas of the brand, each hour I’m doing something different, and today will be a 13-hour day. This morning I checked all my emails and replied to factory enquiries on autumn 13 production orders and spring 14 development. I then sat with our sales and marketing team to go through all our sales and ecommerce-related plans and to discuss trade show timelines. Another focus for today’s meeting was plans for the next lookbook shoot. We’re starting to book models and the creative team; this is the fun bit. Early afternoon I will go through development samples that have arrived and new designs with the team to ensure things are coming in on time, that all fabrics have been ordered and the range is looking just as we want it. We often redesign a whole garment as we change our vision, or add a new garment to the range if we see a gap. Our fit model is coming in at 3.30pm to fit the new men’s samples and it’s important to see the garments on the body and to

see how they move and feel. At 4.30pm we have a potential new retailer coming in to meet us and see the range. This is very exciting and I enjoy meeting new people and getting feedback. After 5.30pm I’ll get back to my emails and send fit comments, chase fabrics and look at our costings and budgets. This is easier when the office is quiet. What task are you most looking forward to today? I really enjoy receiving new development samples. A lot of thought has gone into the design and sourcing process, so it’s a thrill when a sample comes in looking fab. What task do you wish you could postpone? I’m receiving all the pre-production samples for the autumn 13 collection and I need to check each one from top to bottom including measurements and small details. This is timeconsuming but very important. How did you get to where you are today? Since I graduated I’ve not had more than two weeks between jobs, which includes moving to London from New Zealand in 2005. I had to take a

CV 2012 Creative director, Parka London, UK 2007 Menswear production manager, Harvest, UK 2005 Womenswear production co-ordinator, Mark H, UK 2003 Pattern cutter, production manager, Caroline Sills, NZ 1999 Designer men’s and women’s, Primal Surf, NZ 1998 Graduated Fashion (BA), Wanganui Polytechnic, NZ

step back in my progression to prove that my NZ experience was valuable in the UK. I’m greedy for knowledge and I’m not content to sit at one desk and do one small part of the job, so it didn’t take long to regain my due position.

That’s the creative side in me. I like to see the product from inception to delivery. If you could change one thing about your career path, what would it be? My first job was designing and then I ventured into production management. Sometimes I think it would have been good to have stayed in the design sector a little longer. What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? Work hard and be nice to everyone. The industry is a small place. The best way to succeed is to learn from the bottom up and don’t expect short cuts; you’ll gain much more experience and knowledge from grafting. Salaries for this position range from £40,000 to £50,000 (estimate provided by Henry Fox Recruitment)

If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com

1 8

8

The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy.

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Buying & Merchandising Technical, Production & Sales Design Digital & Marketing Retail Operations International successapppointments.co.uk

Drapers / JUNE 1 2013 _ 55

Outerwear brand Parka London’s creative director believes in working hard and being nice to everyone


APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

DESIGNERS – BASED IN MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA WOULD YOU LIKE TO DEVELOP YOUR CAREER IN THE WORLDS MOST LIVABLE CITY? Forever New is a women’s fashion brand which celebrates the feminine beauty of women, and is inspired by global trends in fashion, art, music and theatre. With over 260 stores across eleven countries, we are rapidly expanding and are fast becoming a first choice fashion destination where our customers can get the latest ‘up to the minute’ international looks. Forever New is offering a rare and exciting life changing opportunity, with support every step of the way, including: • Full sponsorship provided, either individually or for a family • Return flight to the UK on your commencement • 6/8 Weeks fully furnished accommodation paid in full • Significant shipping costs to contribute towards relocation of furniture and belongings Forever New are currently looking for innovative, inspirational and experienced designers to join our high performing Head Office based team.

Senior Dress Designer

JUNE 1 2013

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Mentor and inspire a growing team developing inspirational dress collections, covering both the Northern and Southern hemisphere. You will be responsible for trend inspired design direction, development of mood boards and colour palettes in line with the Forever New hand writing, and designing a balanced range in collaboration with the Buying Team.

Blouse Designer Design collections for our Blouse Category. Work with buyers to develop mood boards and trend analysis, developing new collections every four weeks.

Drapers /

Embellishment and Embroidery Graphic Designer Working with the design team, design complimentary embellishment and embroidery ideas to fit the Forever New handwriting. Please send your CV together with a covering letter to recruitment@forevernew.com.au

f o r e v e r n e w. c o m . a u

FASHION DESIGNERS International designers “Nigel Preston & Knight” seek full time & freelance Designers for their luxury womens sheepskin, leather , and blouse collections. Key requirements are love of fashion, creativity, artistic flair, ability to work to tight time brief, working with all aspects of garment design, pattern cutting , development from original concept through to control of final finished garments. Working initially from small studio based in East London, global travel to India for significant periods of time would be required, where garment pattern and development, sampling and manufacture of the unique finishes of hand painting are done. Successful applicants must be able to work to a brief alone or alongside the designers. There are opportunities for experienced or freelance designers and also an exceptional talented, hardworking college leaver would be considered S.A.A.E - please apply to via email to emma@prestonknight.com

RetailJewellerjobs.com is the No. 1 site to start your search for the perfect job in jewellery. Whether you are just starting your career or are an experienced jewellery professional, we will have the right jewellery job for you. Please visit www.retailjewellerjobs.com for the latest opportunities in the Jewellery and watch industries.

www.prestonknight.com

To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com

B H C R F H D B B H W


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BUYING DIRECTOR ANALYST HEAD OF RETAIL IT MANAGER drive. CEO MARKETING DIRECTOR AMBiTiON. REGIONAL DIRECTOR BUYER reCOGNiTiON. FACILITIES & HR MANAGER HEAD OF PRODUCT DESIGN DIRECTOR CHIEF EXECUTIVE BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT COO BUYER MANAGING DIRECTOR HEAD OF RETAIL HR MANAGER WHOLESALE DIRECTOR... Are you an ambitious leader looking for £40k+ roles? RetailWeekJobs is the place to go for your next head office appointment.

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Find your HEAD OF PRODUCTION Luxury Brand

HEAD OF MARKETING Leading Global Online Retailer

£70,000 - £90,000

London

£Competitive + benefits

North London / Herts

Recruiting for Head of Marketing to join prestigious global fashion e-tailer. You will develop & execute Global Multi-channel Marketing and PR strategies to raise brand awareness and drive sales. You will already be heading up a Marketing function in lifestyle or fashion business.

Contact Jane Mason: j.mason@successjobs.co.uk

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ECOMMERCE MERCHANDISER High Street Ladieswear

ECOMMERCE MARKETING MANAGER Luxury beauty brand

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JUNE 1 2013

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Luxury brand are looking for a Head of Product to lead the ready to wear department and be responsible for development and production, focusing on outerwear. You will have significant experience within product development and have previously worked for reputable luxury fashion brands.

£50,000 - £65,000

Central London

£50,000 - £60,000

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High street ladieswear brand currently looking for an established senior merchandiser with a background within e-commerce to help them drive the strategy and performance of their online business. If you are looking for a new challenge then get in touch today.

Creating strategy for global activity across all areas of digital marketing (PPC, SEO, Social Media, Affiliates, eCRM). Producing, creative engaging and ground breaking campaigns. The ideal candidate will have a background in beauty and be well suited to a luxury fashion environment.

Contact Nicola Steadman: n.steadman@successjobs.co.uk

Contact Kathryn Yardley: k.yardley@successjobs.co.uk

ACCOUNT MANAGER Ladies Jersey & Knitwear

DESIGNER Ladies Tailoring

Up to £40,000

London

£Competitive

East London

As Account Manager you’ll be responsible our clients biggest account, working closely with design from initial briefing. Experience within a similar environment selling into high street multiples, the ability to work to a fast pace along with ladies jersey experience are key.

Fantastic opportunity for a Senior Tailoring Designer to join a leading supplier. You will need to have an excellent background working with high street clients with a good knowledge technically. Portfolio should demonstrate your strength in translating trend into commercial product.

Contact Holly Stone: h.stone@successjobs.co.uk

Contact Sally Dawson: s.dawson@successjobs.co.uk

MERCHANDISER Young Fashion

ECOMMERCE MANAGER Online Fashion Retailer

£Excellent

Leeds

Up to £35,000

Liverpool

A unique and exciting time in this fashion retailer’s history, there are endless opportunities for a talented merchandiser within young fashion. You will be a strategic thinker with commercial acumen, first class market awareness, and have a real affinity with product.

As Ecommerce Manager you will look after planning, forecasting and the operational management of the web store for this online fashion retailer. You will execute opportunities to grow ecommerce revenue and help to translate brand strategies into action and work.

Contact Nadine Tipping: n.tipping@successjobs.co.uk

Contact Charlotte Yates: c.yates@successjobs.co.uk

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perfect job USER EXPERIENCE DESIGNER - MOBILE Online Shopping £50,000 - £60,000

PERFORMANCE AND TRAINING MANAGER Home Furnishings Retailer London

OTE £50,000

North London

A prestigious home furnishings retailer is seeking an experienced retail training manager, ideally with HR generalist experience. The role has an overview of people development and performance improvement across the business. Retail operations and assisted sales training experience is highly desirable.

Contact Serena Foster s.foster@successjobs.co.uk

Contact Sarah Dovaston: s.dovaston@successjobs.co.uk

DESIGN MANAGER Ladies Fast Fashion

BUYER Branded Childrenswear Manchester

£Excellent + benefits

London

Highly desired retailer is recruiting for a Design Manager across ladies fast fashion. This role is to manage and support the design teams to deliver collections across short and medium term time frames on both local and export supply base.

Superb opportunity for an experienced buying candidate with strong multi-branded childrenswear experience to work for a rapidly expanding on-line business. Candidates will have excellent relationships with premium brands and the ability to source sought after desirable products.

Contact Rachel Greene: r.greene@successjobs.co.uk

Contact Emma Ramsden: e.ramsden@successjobs.co.uk

ASSISTANT MERCHANDISERS Retail Head Office

INTERNATIONAL ASSISTANT MERCHANDISER Fast Fashion

£Competitive

North West

Up to £23,000 + benefits

Liverpool

Currently seeking talented retail head office Assistant Merchandisers. Responsibilities; to analyse and forecast in-season sales, range plan, manage stock risk through the business and provide trading analysis. You will have strong analytical skills, excellent communicators with a passion and drive to succeed.

Fantastic International AM role for a leading fast fashion brand. Candidates will have experience in updating a WSSI, liaising with stores, planning stock packages and compiling regular trading analysis. Great communication and excellent analytical skills are key for this role.

Contact Tracey Griffin: t.griffin@successjobs.co.uk

Contact Jane Richardson: j.richardson@successjobs.co.uk

SENIOR MERCHANDISING ADMIN ASSISTANT Retail Head Office

RECRUITMENT RESOURCER Digital & Marketing

£22,000

£Competitive + benefits

London

Central London

An amazing opportunity has arisen for an experienced merchandise admin assistant to join a high profile luxury retailer. To successfully apply for this role you will need at least one years experience in a merchandise admin assistant role, within retail head office.

An exciting opportunity to join our expanding Digital & Marketing Team. You will be involved in candidate sourcing and all aspects of recruitment administration, as well as managing social media, blog and web content. Adobe Photoshop + Microsoft Office skills are essential.

Contact Katy Miskell: k.miskell@successjobs.co.uk

Contact Emma Kingscott: e.kingscott@successjobs.co.uk

successappointments.co.uk

Drapers /

£40,000 - £50,000

JUNE 1 2013

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Our client is looking for a hands-on designer with ideally 2 years’ of mobile UX design and traditional web experience. An exciting opportunity to develop your design career and join a growing in-house European UX design team, designing visuals, assets and concepts.


CAREERS SPOTLIGHT TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior SENIOR PATTERN CUTTER CENTRAL LONDON – Competitive Salary Established W1 based Fashion Company supplying high street chains is seeking to recruit an experienced senior pattern cutter to join our busy design studio team. The ideal candidate must have a dynamic personality with strong leadership skills and a minimum of 7 years experience. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639811’

JUNIOR DESIGNER BRIGHTON – £20,000 per annum You will be highly creative and commercial with an attention to detail and passion for both young fashion and print. This is an exciting time to join this fun brand to get involved in driving it forward. Recently, we have added new brand, Poppy Lux to our portfolio and this design role will encompass working on both Sugarhill Boutique and Poppy Lux. Working in our creative team, you will be developing and delivering outstanding product design whilst maintaining the brand visions.

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GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639510’

QUALITY CONTROLLER LEICESTERSHIRE – Up to £40k depending on experience Our client is a leading supplier of ladies, mens and childrenswear to some of the UK’s leading high street retailers. They have a great opportunity for a Quality Controller to join their business. You will book audits and work with factories in complying with any issues. Check the quality of garments and work closely with the sealing process. Liaise with buyers, technical staff, retailers and overseas factories. You will have experience and a strong knowledge of ethical and technical compliance as well as fabric testing-base fabric, bulk fabric and safety testing. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639180’

FABRIC TECHNOLOGIST MANCHESTER– Competitive Salary DOE We have an excellent opportunity for a talented Fabric Technologist to work for a leading ladieswear supplier who are working with some of the leading high street retailers. Working across all areas of ladieswear you will work closely with the design and technical teams developing new fabrics. Liaising with both customers and suppliers, ensuring that the critical dates are maintained. Fabric testing and sourcing. You must have experience within a similar role and an understanding of ladieswear would be preferable. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2637755’

SENIOR SOFT ACCESSORIES DESIGNER LONDON – £Competitive Salary Leading apparel high street supplier has a fantastic opportunity, for a Senior Designer to join their growing Soft Accessories team. The ideal candidate will possess strong experience in designing cold weather products and must be able to design commercial and innovative women’s and men’s products. So if you have a keen eye for design and understand the importance of moving on best sellers. Then this could be the job for you! GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639164’

COUNTRY MANAGER BASED IN CHINA – Excellent Salary – DOE Our client is a successful, long established supplier to the High Street within the UK & Europe with a varied product base including apparel, homewares & cosmetics. They currently seek a Country Manager for China who has expertise in manufacturing within the textile sector, ideally multi - product. The role will include the set-up of the office, taking over working relationships with existing factories and sourcing new ones. You must have extensive knowledge of Asia & working within Asia, equipped to launch a new satellite office in China. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639807’

WEB GRAPHIC DESIGNER – BRITISH FASHION BRAND LONDON – £31000 per annum A rare and exciting opportunity has arisen for an enthusiastic and experienced Web Graphic Designer to join a British brand in London. Our client is a renowned British womenswear brand known for their contemporary designs with chic and affordable luxury pieces. You will deliver the brand identity from concept to design across all 2D communications both online and in-store. Must be an expert is Adobe CS, have an understanding of web design/usability, and previous experience within fashion retail and graphics. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639339’

WHOLESALE SALES EXECUTIVE LONDON – salary advised on application An established and up-market Sales Showroom are looking for an experienced and enthusiastic individual to join our team. We represent a range of varied and exciting international brands at our Notting Hill based showroom. The product is predominantly female focused from swimwear to RTW. The ideal candidate will have proven sales experience and assist in driving sales growth in new and active accounts. You will have established wholesale contacts and a clean driving licence. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2639570’

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SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

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We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377.

GARMENT LABELS

Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751

e-mail: sales@adastralabels.com www.adastralabels.com

PRIVATE LABEL SHIRTS

PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service? We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts. We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.

Contact: Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk

www.drapersonline.com

grahamdelve@esquirescollections.com

07966 171370 GARMENT ACCESSORIES

Rayflex Ltd Est. since 1989 UK Manufacturers of all types of SHOULDER PADS and SLEEVE HEADS Units 6-9, (rear of) 35 River Road, Barking, Essex IG11 0DA Tel: 020 8591 9418


Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS

GB Wholesale Ltd

Huma Fabrics

The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.

Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry.

Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713

Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711

Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

Sales Agents required, Apply Now.

www.durablefasteners.co.uk

TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

21/4/08

13:41

Page 1

LININGS

www.theliningcompany.co.uk

A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it! Visit our transformed website! 16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com

To MESSRS

ORDER No.

A/C No.

Contact: 07903368616

Fabric importers established in 1958

Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more

Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk

Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request. We also stock poly-wool suitings, dress and fashion fabrics. Ahmad Linings UK est. 1976 Tel: 01274 727069 Fax: 01274 390 407 Email: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk NB: We also buy all types of redundant/obsolete fabrics and trimmings with an immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection from small to large quantities. Can collect anywhere in the UK or abroad

ORDER No. DATE

shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

UNIT PRICE

16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com

www.drapersonline.com

Notice board

AUTHORISED

STOCK WANTED

WANTED

- Redundant - Overstock - Samples - Returns - Cancelled Orders

www.salvageliquidator.com

WE BUY...WE SELL... • Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines

Up to 10,000 units required per week. Minimum quantity 100 units. Prices paid up to £2 per piece.

caLL noW for immEdiatE action

Contact Joe 07815 355 355 Email: personnel@verso.uk.com

salvageliquidator12@gmail.com

Always Wanted * Customer Returns * * QC Faults * * Samples * * End of Lines * All cash payments and garments de-labelled if required

Contact Laura 07950310304 or

lollipopsboutique1@gmx.co.uk

01923 800074

Westlee Trading Limited All types of stock required – cancelled orders, residual stocks. We buy, we pay, we collect and we de-label. Call 01132 444 514/ 0777 166 6633 Email westleetrading@live.com

www.drapersonline.com

FREELANCE SERVICES

THE GRADING BUREAU Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs.

Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best. Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual. Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk. Tel: 0208 886 0494 TO LET

Dublin City Centre - Prominent shopping location, off Grafton street

Childrens, Ladies and Mens. N11 info@datagraf.co.uk

Tel: 020 8361 1444

www.gradingbureau.com

DATAGR AF LTD

ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment. Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376

www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

Lollipops Boutique 1

Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing

Retail Shop to Let

approx. 600sq foot ground floor approx. 350sq foot basement

Rent 70 thousand euro p.a

Serious enquires to POBOX2832@gmail.com GRADING

Creative Pattern Cutting

Established 1973 Established 1973

From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE

OVERSTOCKS WE BUY

Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 020 8364 8859 AND ANYTHING stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE ATTN: RETAILERS Manufactures/Wholesalers etc– REACTION – DECISION We pay MORE for your overstocks as we PAYMENT do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone David 0208 736 0088 LSSMrServices M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 Unit 6 or Email buyers@dofg.net Atlas Business Centre Oxgate Lane London NW2 7HJ Tel: 020 8208 0404

Stock wanted

We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.

eaRn ££££’S today Mixed bundles, current or past season collections. No minimum / maximum. Stockroom clearance is our speciality. Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.

01423 872868 - 07971 898477 gillie@merinofashions.co.uk

Providing the best service for our clients Commercially aware and bespoke High technical ability combined with creativity makes us the leaders in our field www.fashionworks.biz

07751702952 / 07905965305 Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available

www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723

FOR SALE For sale surplus fabric, knitted, woven & PVC, trims & garments some retro. Plus machines and thread. Good quality, variable amounts. 07791279083 textilefactorysurplusdr1@gmail.com

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Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT

JUNE 1 2013

TEXTILE WHOLESALE

Drapers /

JEANS BUTTONS


BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Zuppe Clothing Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery. Labels stocked: Zuppe,

Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro

Drapers /

JUNE 1 2013

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and Preppi. Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection


June 12, 2013 Old Billingsgate London

BOOK YOUR TABLE NOW! Drapers and Retail Week are proud to bring you the PayPal etail awards 2013, recognising the very best multichannel retailing has to offer.

THIS IS A SELL OUT EVENT BOOK NOW TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT

www.etail-awards.com FOR SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT:

Julia Jones-Collins julia.jones-collins@EMAP.com 0203 033 2952

In partnership with:

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FOR TABLE SALES ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT:

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Photo Booth Sponsor:

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www.aigle.com

DEPUIS 1853 paris . london . tokyo . nature SPRING/SUMMER 2014 AT BREAD & BUTTER IN L.O.C.K.

UK and Ireland – tel.: 01608 613 860 – uksales@aigle.com


Digital Issue: Drapers June 1 2013