Western Lakes & Mountains by Discover Maine Magazine

DISCOVER

MAINE Volume 8, Issue 7

Maine’s History Magazine Western Lakes & Mountains Region

Free 2012

www.discovermainemagazine.com Maine In China Two brave teachers slain by the “Boxers”

The Gaeltacht Of Greenwood Immigrants from County Galway settled here

David Buxton’s Miracle Medicine Wagon Businessman from Abbot pedaled “miracle cures”

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~ Inside This Edition ~

Eastman Johnson The American Rembrandt from Lovell James Nalley Thomas Phelps: Rear Admiral The Civil War’s naval surveyor from Buckfield James Nalley Livermore Veteran Will Always Be Remembered Crossed the Delaware with Washington Ian MacKinnon Maine In China Two brave teachers slain by the “Boxers” Sherwood W. Anderson Whatever Happened To Vaughn Meader? Waterville-born comic got his start parodying JFK Charles Francis Albert W. Grant: The Admiral From Benton A true son of Maine Charles Francis A Town Awakened A story of murder and mystery in Readfield Dave Bumpus Mail Delivery By Boat Belgrade’s unique postal service Clarence W. Bennett Charles Heywood: First Marine Corps Major General Waterville-born Marine responsible for modernization of the Corps Charles Francis Antonia Savage And Percy Grainger North Anson woman became hugely successful impresario Charles Francis Seboomook Farm Home to German POWs in Maine Penny S. Harmon Sonny Parlin: A Remembrance December 1, 1928 – May 11, 2011 Sherwood W. Anderson Daggett Rock: Maine’s Largest Glacial Erratic A glacier carried this giant rock to Phillips James Nalley Philbrick Of The Rainbow Division Skowhegan native volunteered for military duty Charles Francis David Buxton’s Miracle Medicine Wagon Businessman from Abbot pedaled “miracle cures” Charles Francis Country Doctor Rural medicine of days gone by Clarence W. Bennett The Great Rangeley Lakes Of Maine In Days Of Yore A brief history of founding families Matthew Jude Barker The Proud Skiing Tradition Of Rumford Skiing began in the early 1900s James Nalley The Gaeltacht Of Greenwood Immigrants from County Galaway settled here Matthew Jude Barker Norway’s Mark Hill Dunnell Educator, soldier, leader extraordinaire Charles Francis The Time Dad Knocked The Train Off The Rails Quite a stunt with a Model-A Franklin Irish Directory Of Advertisers See who helps us bring Maine’s history to you!

Discover Maine Magazine Western Lakes & Mountains Region Published Annually by CreMark, Inc. 10 Exchange Street, Suite 208 Portland, Maine 04101 (207) 874-7720 info@discovermainemagazine.com

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Sherwood W. Anderson Matthew Jude Barker Clarence Bennett Dave Bumpus Charles Francis fundy67@yahoo.ca Penny. S. Harmon Franklin Irish Ian MacKinnon James Nalley

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Front cover photo: Campers at blue Mountain Camp in Weld from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org All photos in Discover Maine’s Western Lakes & Mountains edition show Maine as it used to be, and many are from local citizens who love this part of Maine. Photos are also provided from our collaboration with the Maine Historical Society and the Penobscot Marine Museum.

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Notes From The Fayette Ridge by Michele Farrar

ecently I invited my old friend Bob, who lives up here on the ridge, over for dinner. He was late. I called his house — no answer. I called his cell phone. (Bob reluctantly got a cell phone last year. He is dead set against keeping up with technology, but his adult children thought otherwise and fixed him right up.) When Bob’s cell phone went unanswered, I started to worry just a bit. Bob doesn’t like anyone worrying about him — he’s generally a private person and doesn’t subscribe to the notion that anyone needs to know what he is doing at any given moment. Thirty minutes later Bob arrived. The first words out of his mouth were: “Is there a road anywhere in the state that isn’t under construction? Did the state get a windfall for road repair?” It’s true — nearly all of the roads within 60 miles of my house are under construction. It’s been going on for so long that the flagger’s faces are all becoming familiar. Bob says he can tell you which ones smoke, whether they drink water or soda, and what kind of cars they drive (you can see them parked at odd angles in the ditches).

Anyone who has driven through Livermore Falls or Jay this summer knows the frustration well. (The locals know the back roads, and traffic has been heavy there.) Bob says when he’s going through construction, and it’s his turn to go, he likes to look at the faces of the drivers in the line waiting. Many of them are on the phone, some are staring back at him, others are trying to avert chaos with small children in the backseat. Bob says he can spot the non-locals right away — especially the “outta staters.” They’re the ones with their heads hanging out of the window, trying to see as far ahead as possible, estimating how long they are going to be sitting in this dust trap. Bob was late because he had to stop for gas. There’s only one full-serve station left in the area, and he likes it. They wash your windshield and check the oil. Bob says it’s the only place you can still get pampered. Anyway, the flagger was standing three car-lengths in front of the entrance to the gas station. Bob waited ten full minutes to get to the pumps. When he was done, he had to wait another ten minutes to get onto the street. Then, out of the blue there were sirens and the construction guys were waving at Bob’s line like NASCAR pit guys to drive as fast as possible in the narrow culvert they were passing off

as a road. Fire trucks and an ambulance were making their way through town. Bob sped up and then pulled over at the first opportunity, with two wheels in a sand pile. The trucks nearly grazed his pickup on the way by. Bob got out of town and thought he had a clear shot to Fayette. Route 17 has recently been re-paved, and although we thought we were out of the woods on that road, there are still stripes to be painted. Bob hit another stall courtesy of a flagger. I’ve learned to cope by saving certain chores for what we now call “flagger downtime.” I apply makeup in the car instead of at home. This means I can leave ten minutes earlier, then do makeup during the downtime, and I come out even in the end. The only problem with that is when my line is short or I get there just as it’s my turn. I’ve arrived at work with one eye made up and the other one naked. Bob says he’s going to stay home for the most part, until the construction is done. He’s retired, so that could work for him. For the rest of us who travel to Livermore Falls and Jay, I know I’m not alone when I say I’m looking forward to one spectacular stretch of Route 4 when it’s finally finished! 

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Eastman Johnson The American Rembrandt from Lovell by James Nalley

n 1859 a 35-year-old artist from Maine unveiled an exhibition of paintings from his studio in New York City. Among the artwork sat one oil-on-canvas work titled: “Negro Life at the South.” The scene includes a young couple in the foreground flirting with each other as a banjo player serenades an adult woman dancing with her child, which all occurs under the collapsing roof of a dilapidated house. On the far right, there is a young white woman in a white dress watching curiously. The realism of the painting shows skin tones that vary greatly from person to person with focus on the lighter tones. According to John Davis in his 1998 article in The Art Bulletin, this glimpse of mixed racial heritage caused

both proponents and detractors of slavery to use this work to defend their positions. From the controversy, this painting had become the artist’s masterpiece, and it secured his position as one of the most important American painters of the 19th century. Eastman Johnson was born in Lovell, Maine, on July 29, 1824. He was the last of eight children born to a prominent businessman, Philip C. Johnson, who eventually served as Maine’s Secretary of State between 1840 and 1844. His family’s name was not just limited to his father’s work because his oldest brother, Philip C. Johnson Jr., was a successful naval officer who eventually became a commodore in the service. After a short period in Fryeburg, the family moved to

Augusta in 1834, and remained at their house on 61 Winthrop Street until 1846. Eastman, on the other hand, stayed only until 1840 when his plans took him to Boston, Massachusetts. In 1840 Eastman Johnson began work as an apprentice in a lithography shop in Boston where his talent allowed him to hone his skills and become a portrait artist using crayon and chalk. For the next nine years, he produced highly praised work by sketching prominent figures such as Nathaniel Hawthorne, Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. In 1849, following a trend by other American artists, he moved to Düsseldorf, Germany, where he apprenticed with artist Emanuel Leutze. Leutze, a German

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painter, is best known for his work, “Washington Crossing the Delaware,” which is one of the most recognized paintings of the Revolutionary War. From 1849 to 1855 his study and travels took him to The Hague in the Netherlands to focus on the works of 17th century Dutch masters as well as Paris, where he studied with French historical painter and teacher, Thomas Couture. But in 1855, Johnson was forced to return to the U.S. after his mother suddenly passed away. After his return from Europe, Johnson visited his sister in 1857, who was living in the “western frontier” in what is now the northwestern portion of Wisconsin. There he met an AfricanAmerican fur trader, George Bonga, who had married a native Ojibwe woman. This experience had changed his overall approach to painting, where he re-focused his artistic eye on subjects such as scenes that depicted living situations and everyday activities. Although he stayed only for a short period of

time, his work changed dramatically. His focus on the smallest details displayed photographic realism approximately 100 years before the Photorealism movement was even established in the 1960s. This aspect and his careful attention to light can be seen in all of his subsequent works. In 1859 Johnson moved to New York City, where he established a studio and quickly gained a reputation in the artistic circles. He continued to expand on his repertoire by painting everything from urban scenes to prominent figures such as Abraham Lincoln. But his primary focus remained on everyday people living in everyday scenes, and his travels took him from Maine (as seen in works such as “Sugaring Off at the Camp, Fryeburg”) to the southern United States. Following his marriage to Elizabeth Buckley in 1869, his work included portraits of his wife and young daughter. His work even extended into scenery of Nantucket, where he spent his efforts producing works that in-

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cluded his well-known “The Cranberry Harvest, Island of Nantucket.” In 1870 the New York State Legislature wanted to establish a city museum and library that primarily focused on art and the study of the fine arts. After an act of incorporation, the Metropolitan Museum of Art opened its doors on February 20, 1872. Housed in a small building located on Fifth Avenue, the first exhibit consisted of a personal art collection belonging to a prominent railroad executive. Overseeing the event was the co-founder Eastman Johnson, who gladly accepted the role in the formation of this important museum. In his remaining years from 1880 on, Johnson’s work was in great demand with patrons, and he wascommissioned to produce many formal portraits for both local and national figures. According to a New York Times article on April 6, 1906: Eastman Johnson, the portrait painter, died last night at his home, 65 West 55th Street. Mr. Johnson had been (Continued on page 6)

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(Continued from page 5)

complaining of feeling ill and feeble for a month. He was 82 years old, and when he showed signs of heart weakness some months ago he told his friends that the end was near, and that he was prepared. Last evening at about 6 p.m. he was stricken with a fainting spell, and although medical attention was immediately given him, he was unable to rally, and died and hour later. Mr. Johnson died in the presence of his wife, Elizabeth Buckley Johnson, and his son-in-law and daughter, Mr. And Mrs. Alfred R. Conkling. He was buried at Green-Wood Cemetery in Brooklyn. Today, the Metropolitan Museum of Art has become one of the world’s most important art museums. It has grown from its humble beginnings to more than two million square feet of floor space with a length of approximately a quarter mile. Inscribed and immortalized on its entrance is Eastman Johnson, one of America’s most respected artists, originally from the state of Maine.

Cow and Moose, Stoneham, ca. 1938. A moose and cow in a pasture in Stoneham. The moose was locally famous, named Joe Pete by warden William R. French, and lived in the area around Speckled Mountain near Lovell and Stoneham from 19341939. The moose would graze alongside the cows while hundreds of sightseers would come and look on. George W. French, who took the picture, was staff photographer for the Maine Publicity Bureau from 1936-1955. He took photos that would promote the natural beauty of Maine and encourage tourism. Item #22054 from the collections of the Maine Historical Society and www.VintageMaineImages.com

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Lovell, ca. 1950. The shores of Kezar Lake are lined with boats, swimmers, campers, fishermen and women during the summer months. This photograph is part of the Wittemann collection which is a large set of photographs taken by members of the Wittemann family and made into postcards and sold in batches to businesses in Maine. Item #6582 from the collections of the Maine Historical Society and www.VintageMaineImages.com

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Thomas Phelps: Rear Admiral The Civil War’s naval surveyor from Buckfield by James Nalley

ocated within the tree-lined, northwestern portion of Section 1 at the Arlington National Cemetery is a grave that stands out among the rest. Unlike the majority of the gravestones that honor the nation’s heroes that consist of white marble, this one is made of dark-gray stone with three tiers capped off with a large cross. It honors a rear admiral in the United States Navy from Buckfield, who approximately 150 years earlier, commanded a critical battle in North Carolina during the final year of the Civil War. Thomas Stowell Phelps was born in the town of Buckfield, Maine, on Nov. 2, 1822. At the age of 18, he joined the U.S. Navy and served for three years on the sloop Boston, which traveled along the Mediterranean and Labrador coasts. At the end of his tour in 1843, he was assigned to the U.S. Naval Academy in Annapolis, Maryland, where he received his commission as an officer in February, 1846. After graduation, he rejoined the Boston and eventually served on three other ships, including the Polk, the Independence, and the Constitution with an impeccable service record. In January 1856 Phelps, then a 34year-old lieutenant, was assigned to the

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sloop Decatur. The Decatur was stationed in Puget Sound in anticipation of possible conflicts with several tribes of Native Americans in the Washington Territory, which is near present-day Seattle. After receiving reports that a tribe had occupied the nearby woods, the commander of the Decatur, Guert Gansevoort, ordered a landing force that consisted of both Marines and sailors. According to historical records from the U.S. Naval Institute: Supported by a howitzer, which they brought ashore with them, and the ship’s battery firing solid shot, shells, grape shot, and canister, the landing party engaged the Indians and drove them back within thirty minutes. By 10 p.m., all firing had ceased when the Indians disengaged and retreated with their dead and wounded into the woods. No sailors or Marines were lost due to fighting and the actions of the combined (force) had safeguarded the frontier settlement. Although the records both glorified and simplified the conflict, Phelps would later publish his own recollection of the event in much more vivid and gruesome detail. After the Civil War began in 1861, Confederate forces attempted to destroy all of their navigational aids on their territory’s major rivers in order to hinder

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future Union attacks. In order to support the Union’s future offensive plans, Phelps secretly surveyed, charted and marked the Confederate coast despite the incredible danger. In the fall of the same year, Phelps commanded the steamer Corwin, which surveyed Cape Hatteras, where he successfully fought the Confederate gunboat CSS Curlew and sunk two Confederate vessels. His efforts would prove to be successful for the Union Navy and he was recognized by the Secretary of the Navy for his services. But January 1865 would be the time when Phelps would earn his greatest notoriety for his leadership and actions. As a lieutenant commander, Phelps led his (Continued on page 10)

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steam sloop Juniata in an attack on Fort Fisher, which was the last supply route open for Confederate forces to supply the port at Wilmington, North Carolina. The Juniata was positioned as one of the central ships in the main wave of 56 vessels that bombarded the fort for twoand-a-half days. As the fort’s defenses were weakened due to the bombardment, a landing force of 8,000 Union soldiers attacked and successfully conquered the crucial location on Jan. 15, 1865. His final major Civil War service was on April 16, 1865, during the Battle of West Point (Georgia) where he prevented a large Confederate force from rejoining their main army, which aided the Union victory in that conflict as well. Later that year, Phelps received his promotion to commander, and six years after the Civil War had ended, Phelps was promoted to the rank of captain in 1871. One of his most important historical

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contributions was in 1882, when he published his “Reminiscences of Seattle: Washington Territory and the U.S. Sloop-of-War Decatur During the Indian War of 1855-56.” Despite the fact that it was written approximately 30 years after the event, it was apparent that his memory of the battle was crystal clear with writing that included vivid details: The roaring of an occasional gun from the ship, belching forth its shrieking shell, and its explosion in the woods, the sharp report of the howitzer, the incessant rattle of small-arms, and an uninterrupted whistling of bullets, mingled with the furious yells of the Indians, transpiring beneath an overcast and lowering sky, pictured a scene long to be remembered by those who were upon the ground to witness it. A young man (Pocock, or Wilson, as he called himself), having benefited by the protection afforded by a stump, for an hour or more, lost his life by the severance of the spinal column with an Indian bullet, while in the act of running to the rear, for the purpose of procuring water to quench his thirst.

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In 1885 at the rank of rear admiral, Phelps retired after completing 45 years of service. He lived his final years watching his own son quickly rise through the ranks as a naval officer, and died in the Naval Hospital in New York City on Jan. 10, 1901, at the age of 78. Episcopal funeral services were held at the residence of his daughter, Mrs. T.B.M. Mason, and his body was escorted to Arlington National Cemetery by United States Marines as the Marine Band performed in honor of his service. His pallbearers included three Navy captains, one Marine general and two Admirals. He is buried in Grave 504, Section 1, next to his wife and son, Thomas Stowell Phelps, Jr., who also became a rear admiral. Perhaps it was best said by Phelps at the end of his published reminiscence that showed his true love of the sea despite his difficult experiences in battle: In three hours our noble vessel once more rode over the long gentle swell of the broad Pacific, and when well outside of Cape Classet, and clear of Duncan’s Rock, the hawsers connecting our ship with the John Hancock were cast off, and as she swept around in a graceful curve on her return to Puget’s Sound… As our eyes turned in the direction from whence we had come, with the exception of the writer, every officer, and nearly every man on board the U. S. sloop-of-war Decatur looked for the last time upon the magnificent Strait of Juan de Fuca. Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

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Livermore Veteran Will Always Be Remembered Crossed the Delaware with Washington by Ian MacKinnon

aptain Elisha Williams evidently held onto his hat as he cruised the Delaware River with General George Washington. Born in East Hartford, Connecticut, Williams graduated from Yale College in 1775 and, caught up in the patriotic fervor sweeping New England, joined the American Army besieging Boston. General George Washington later appointed Williams as an adjutant. Ultimately promoted to captain, Williams capably served during the Revolutionary War. After America gained its independence from Great Britain, Elisha Williams almost faded into history. He should have done so; like so many young American officers, Williams enthusiastically returned to civilian status and experienced a life remarkably mundane among

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New England’s college-educated elite in the late-18th and early-19th centuries. But Elisha Williams did not vanish into history. He later brought his educaElisha Williams did not vanish into history. He later brought his education and religious faith to Livermore and helped incorporate that town in 1795.

tion and religious faith to Livermore and helped incorporate that town in 1795 — and local histories recall his civic involvement. He probably learned about civic responsibilities from his father, the stern Rev. Eliaphalet Williams. Evidently not a preacher to mince his words, Reverend Williams pastored an East Hartford church from 1748 to

1801, and died in late June 1803. He was buried in Center Cemetery in East Hartford. Elisha’s mother, Sarah Williams, died in January 1800; one sister, Fanny, lived only 11 years before dying in 1792, yet another sister, Abigail, lived from 1783 to 1867. Elisha’s parents likely named a daughter Abigail because in 1780, three years before the baby’s birth, Elisha married Abigail Livermore, eldest daughter of Deacon Elijah Livermore and his wife, Dinah. Originally from Waltham, Massachusetts, Livermore served there as a deacon (then a lifetime honorific) and selectman before moving to the future Livermore in the District of Maine in 1780. Abigail Livermore was born in 1757; she died in 1817 (one record lists (Continued on page 12)

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(Continued from page 11)

During their March 6, 1796 town meeting, Livermore voters tapped Elisha Williams as moderator, a position to which he was elected during town meetings in 1797 and 1798. The next year, Dr. Cyrus Hamlin supplanted Williams as moderator, but Livermore voters named him clerk and treasurer. Elisha Williams did not stay forever in Livermore. Ordained a Baptist minister in 1799, he moved to Brunswick that year to pastor a fledgling Baptist church. After Abigail’s death, Williams married Rebecca Bridge in the early 1820s. He would die in 1845 while pastoring a Baptist church in Beverly, Massachusetts. With his death, Elisha Williams should have vanished from American memory. Even the fact that he participated in a dramatic river crossing, frigid winter march, and bloody battle should have been lost to history — but that same fact apparently propelled him into a painting as famous as any painting in American history.

her death as occurring in July 1818). Elisha Williams brought Abigail north to Maine to live near her parents in 1790. Reverend Livermore participated in local government, opening his house to Livermore’s second town meeting on August 10, 1795 and supporting votes to maintain the roads and operate the schools. His son-in-law evidently garnered respect from his neighbors. After arriving in Livermore, Williams became the first school teacher and participated in local religious services. On August 7, 1793, seventeen people (11 men and six women) organized the First Baptist Church of Livermore, with Elisha Williams counted among the original members; Abigail Williams was not. This church initially met at a house owned by Zebedee Delano (another church founder) and served the town’s Baptists until the Second Baptist Church formed in 1811.

In his A History of Livermore, Maine, Reginald Sturtevant reported that Williams “was one of the most fascinating characters among the town’s founders.” Sturtevant’s words remain a classic understatement, because Continental Army veteran Elisha Williams made history on December 25, 1776. After his battered, hungry and cold soldiers placed the Delaware River between themselves and pursuing British troops in December 1776, General George Washington contemplated his army’s future. Driven from New York City and relentlessly chased across New Jersey, the American army faced defeat while entering a rudimentary camp in Pennsylvania, upriver from Philadelphia. Many regiments would vanish as enlistments expired at midnight, December 31, and unless those soldiers agreed to serve longer,Washington would lose his surviving veterans. He decided to attack a Hessian-held post at Trenton, New Jersey. American

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

troops would cross the Delaware River on Christmas Night 1776, march south along the local roads, and attack the Hessian garrison around dawn, hopefully while the enemy troops were sleeping off their Christmas revelry. History remembers that night. Ill-clad soldiers marched through a cold rain to McConkey’s Ferry on the Delaware River. As the dropping temperatures solidified the rain to sleet, John Glover and his Marblehead seamen manned large Durham boats that could carry artillery, horses, and soldiers across the river to New Jersey. The sleet became a wind-driven snow that blanketed the riverbanks and countryside. Washington boarded a Durham boat and waited patiently as Glover’s hardy seamen navigated a Delaware River not actually covered by treacherous ice floes, as erroneously depicted in a later painting. Accompanying George Washington on his Delaware River cruise that night was Adjutant Elisha Williams. He “was in the same boat with Washington at the crossing of the Delaware,” Sturtevant wrote in his Livermore history. Elisha Williams’ descendants did not doubt that he sailed in Washington’s boat. A great-grandson, Henry Staples Potter, would claim that Williams served during the Revolutionary War as “an aide of Washington, and crossed the Delaware in the same boat with the general.” Washington and Williams made history that night and the next morning, when yelling American soldiers emerged

from the winter storm to surprise and overwhelm three Hessian regiments at Trenton. “Our men pushed on with such Rapidity that they soon carried four pieces of Cannon out of Six, Surrounded the Enemy and obliged 30 officers and 886 privates to lay down their Arms,” Washington wrote in a December 28, 1776 letter. Elated American troops took their prisoners with them while withdrawing to Pennsylvania. The victory reignited a dimming passion for liberty, Americans rallied to the cause, and “the rest,” as the phrase goes, “is history.” Not quite. In 1851, German artist Emanuel Leutze painted “Washington Crossing The Delaware.” This dynamic work dramatically captured the tension as a Durham boat containing 13 soldiers, including a cloak-clutching George Washington, crossed the Delaware River on Christmas Night 1776. The painting became an American icon well-known to schoolchildren for several generations.

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Supposedly only three men could be officially identified in Leutze’s painting. Everybody recognizes Washington, his right knee placed firmly near the boat’s thwarts. Behind him stands James Monroe, his arms securing an unfurled American flag. Unfortunately, no extant historical records indicate that Monroe actually sailed with Washington that stormy night. Working an oar beside Washington’s right knee is a black soldier, identified as Prince Whipple. He did capably serve in the American army, and he earned his freedom for doing so, but Whipple was actually stationed in Baltimore that night. The other men in Washington’s boat remain unidentified, except for one, the soldier seated immediately behind James Monroe. His eyes focused on the Jersey shore, the man clasps his hat with his right hand, apparently to keep the hat from blowing away in a wind that disturbs no other hat aboard the boat. (Continued on page 14)

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Discover Maine 14

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 13)

In Livermore, local lore and a Williams family tradition identified this soldier, probably an officer as indicated by his well-trimmed coat, facings, and sleeves. He’s Elisha Williams, Washington’s adjutant, a man who would be at his commander’s side no matter where, no matter when. “Leutze’s well-known painting of that event depicts [Elisha] Williams behind Washington, holding onto his hat,” Sturtevant proclaimed in his book. He does not indicate how he knows this fact. Williams’ descendants probably told him, because as attested by great-grandson Henry Potter, Elisha Williams cruised the Delaware River in the same boat with George Washington on December 25, 1776.

Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

Detail of he iconic Leutze painting that depicts George Washington crossing the Delaware, in which Williams may or may not be the gentleman holding onto his hat behind Washington.

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

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The Creamery in Farmington. Item #100755 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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Discover Maine 16

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

mund, she taught four wo women or five years in Portfrom Portland, land area public Mary Morrill schools. Then, upon and Annie Gould, application, she was teachers at a small Two brave teachers slain by the “Boxers” approved to teach in boarding school for China by the American girls in China, were Board of Commissioncaught up in the violent ers for Foreign Misanti-western Boxer Upsions. rising of 1900. In her passport affiMary Susan Morrill, davit of February 4, born in Deering, near 1889, Mary described Portland, went north to herself as 25 years old, the two-year Farming5 foot 2, blue eyes, dark ton State Normal brown hair, fair comSchool to become a Annie Gould Mary S. Morril plexion and face teacher. While a stu“rather thin.” She afdent she joined Old by Sherwood W. Anderson firmed she was a loyal South Congregational Church in January 1884, diagonally across Main Street from citizen of the United States. Her purpose was “to travel F.S.N.S. Returning to Portland and transferring her member- abroad and reside in the Empire of China.” Mary was sent to Paotingfu (now Baoding) in north China, ship to the Second Parish Church, she taught a Sunday school class for interested Chinese, the beginning of her love for 60 miles from the capital Peking (now Beijing). There she China. While living with her parents Rufus and Elizabeth started the “Girls Boarding School” with two dozen or so stuMerrill, her younger sister Sarah and still younger brother Ed- dents, and it became her “home.”

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Mary was joined at the Boarding School by another teacher, Annie Allender Gould. Annie, five years younger than Mary, was from Bethel in Oxford County. Her father John W. Gould, a bank teller, moved with wife Amelia to Portland for another bank position. Annie was the eldest of her brothers Oliver and Theodore. She graduated in 1882 from Mt. Holyoke in Massachusetts, then a small church-related Congregational College for women. Annie Gould was sent also by the American Board to China, where she joined Mary at the Girls Boarding School, learned Chinese and began to teach. Mary came back to Maine April 12, 1897 after eight years in China, remaining a year and a half, leaving the school in Annie’s charge. She rejoined Annie in Paotingfu in 1898, just a year before the terrifying Boxer Rebellion began. “The Righteous and Harmonious Fists,” or “Boxers” as they were called in the West, with the tacit approval of

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the Dowager Empress, determined to drive from China all foreigners and their Chinese adherents, or kill them. Christianity was not truly a foreign doctrine, having been in China in some form since A.D. 630, when Nestorian Christians arrived and carved their history onto the stone stele in Xian. Christian or not, it made no difference to the Boxers. Trained for brutality, the fighters drilled naked to the sash around the waist, both hands gripping the ribbonstreamed handle of a long curved sword, slashing downward with all the force a coiled torso and upraised arms could leverage. Rev. Frank E. Simcox wrote of them, “The Boxers are a society of people who practice magic and believe they can become invulnerable, that a rifle ball will not affect them, and they can swallow a cannon ball at will. This they confidently believe, and many join them because of this. Several of them have been killed, but they say they had not obtained the art, and so continue to deceive.” Frank’s wife, Mary Gilson Simcox, wrote her last letter from Paotingfu May 3, 1900, “Sometimes at night when the wind blows across the plain (you know we are out on a plain with no houses near us) and it is exceptionally dark, I look out the window and when I see a lantern moving here and there, a sense of utter helplessness comes over me. The city gates are closed always at night and cannot be opened. If a band should

attack us we could not send word to the officials. Oh, so many things can come into one’s mind, if one gives way to it. But you must not tell this, for when the day comes, I have no fears whatever.” Annie Gould in her last letter wrote: “I know perfectly well the possibility of danger, but generally speaking, it does not weigh on me, or when it does, I just cry out and pray for grit . . . I can’t tell you exactly what I fear; not death nor even violence at the hands of the mob, for the physical suffering would be over soon and God can give strength for that . . . If I live, I will send you another letter soon. Pray for Mary and me. ‘If not on earth, will meet in heaven’.” On May 30, 1900, with the Boxers camped only miles from the compound to the north, south, east and west; and mail, telegraph and railroad services cut, a courier got Mary’s last letter out: “Miss Gould and I cannot leave if we would, and would not if we could.” She and Annie, together with a Mrs. Tu, fled to the chapel for prayer and consultation. “Now we can only wait. Our lives are in God’s keeping. He may ask us to lay them down very soon.” The Boxers attacked the Paotingfu missionaries June 30 and July 1, 1900. The Simcox family, Frank, his wife Mary and baby Margaret died inside their house when it was set on fire, and Francis and Paul, five and seven, were cut down running from the building. Rev. H. Tracy Pitkin, trapped in the

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(Continued on page 18)

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Discover Maine 18

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 17)

free holding her mother’s dress, and was speared by a Boxer despite mother Emily’s pleas. The four-year-old was the first to die. Two Boxers led the procession toward the city. The clutching mob tore at the garments of Mary and Annie but did not strip them. Outside the southeast corner of the city fortress the missionaries were beheaded without torture. Their bodies were laid in a shallow pit, frequently disturbed and reburied. An officer of the U.S. Army at the site four months later found no trace of their remains. The Boxer Uprising was a disaster for China. About 250 Protestants and Catholics were martyred, including 11 adults and four children at Paotingfu. 20,000 or more Chinese Christians were slain, including fifty at Paotingfu. “It is a grief too great for tears,” wrote Isaac Conrad Ketler, biographer of the Paotingfu martyrs. The Boxers were defeated in 1901 by a coalition of troops from Great Britain, Germany, France, Japan, Russia and the

chapel with Mary and Annie, intimidated the Boxers from its windows with his revolver until he ran out of ammunition. The mob broke in, shot and beheaded him and seized the women. Pitkin’s body was put in a pit just outside the compound, along with ten or so Chinese Christians and servants. Pitkin’s wife Letitia, with their two-year-old Horace, had left in March for America, she having suffered a nervous breakdown, and so survived. Annie fainted, frightened by the brutal Boxers. They trussed her hands and feet, passed a pole through, and swung her live, like a pig carried to market. Fearless Mary, of considerable moral courage, was able to walk, led by the hair. She exhorted the people as they proceeded, giving a piece of silver to a poor wayside person, no longer having need of it. The others were tied by a rope binding both hands to the neck and strung to the next behind, bound the same way. Gladys Bagnell walked

United States. They forced China to pay enormous reparations for damage done the property of their nationals. The Rev. Arthur H. Smith, an American Board missionary from Connecticut, helped persuade President Theodore Roosevelt in 1906 to use part of America’s indemnity to provide scholarships for Chinese to study in America, and $32 million was spent for this purpose. “Yale in China” was established by the friends of Rev. H. Tracy Pitkin, a Yale graduate, to provide Chinese with advanced training in western medicine. The exchange of students and faculty between Yale University and Yale in China continues to this day, though now secular and under another name. A darkly tarnished bronze tablet, affixed since 1916 in the sanctuary of Farmington’s Old South Church, reads: Mary Susan Morrill Born Deering Maine March 24, 1863 Graduated Farmington State Normal School 1884 Joined Old South Church 1884 Accepted Missionary to north China under A.B.C.F.M. 1888 Crowned a martyr at Pao Ting Fu July 1, 1900 And a young Chinese officer standing by and witnessing how she died became a Convert to the Christian faith. Later he became China’s famous Christian General Feng Yu Hsiang “And when Stephen was stoned a young man named Saul stood by and consented to his death.” Memorial services for the slain were held on several continents, and in the United States in churches of many denominations. The memorial service at Old South on a December Sunday evening in 1900 was filled with people from all Farmington churches. Outside a city in distant China some handfuls of Maine earth, unmarked and unremembered, await the Day of Resurrection. Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

The lodge at Camp Wyconda, Belgrade Lakes. Item #103296 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

Stevens Forest Products

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Discover Maine 20

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Whatever Happened To Vaughn Meader? Waterville-born comic got his start parodying JFK by Charles Francis

Vaughn Meader was once one of the biggest names in show business. Back in 1963 he had the biggest selling album of all time. That album was The First Family, a gentle — that is an appropriate word to describe it — parody of President John F. Kennedy. The First Family wasn’t just the best selling comedy album of 1963, it outsold all albums! If anyone deserved a bit of success it was Vaughn Meader. His early years were spent in a succession of children’s homes. Then, when he graduated high school, he went in the Army. While he was stationed in Germany he discovered he was enough of a talent to take a real stab at show business. He was a good singer and composer in the country and bluegrass genre. However, it was his comedic style that appealed to audiences, especially in The Village in

Vaughn Meader parodying JFK

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

New York. What audiences liked was Meader’s New England accent. It was a legitimate accent, one that had its roots in his home state of Maine and that had acquired a Boston glaze while Meader attended high school in Brookline. Because John F. Kennedy was President, Boston accents were an “in” thing. Most comedians couldn’t do one well though, or else “they laid it on too thick.” Meader’s had the ring of reality. Vaughn Meader rocketed to national stardom at age twenty-seven and vanished just as quickly with the assassination of President Kennedy. After the President was shot in Dallas, Meader suddenly found that he couldn’t get a booking. Even previously scheduled appearances were canceled.

(Continued on page 22)

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For all intents and purposes Vaughn Meader disappeared in November of 1963. He did, didn’t he? Well, not quite. What Meader did when he found that he was persona non grata in most entertainment venues across the country was to come home to Maine. He even ran a restaurant here for a while. Vaughn Meader’s stardom was based on his ability to parody John F. Kennedy. His career didn’t end with the death of President Kennedy on November 22, 1963, though. It simply took another form, most notably in the ski resorts of the mountains of western Maine, in places like Rangeley and the Carrabassett Valley. It was here that Meader found he had a home, not in Waterville, the town where he was born, nor in Auburn, where he died. You had to see and hear Vaughn

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Discover Maine 22

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 21)

following — made “Going Down to Maine” a Meader anthem. Vaughn Meader’s early life has the flavor of rags-to-riches fiction. Not only did he go through a succession of children’s homes, he was bounced out of one. In school, however, he was drawn to vocal music and the piano. The Army provided him the opportunity to pursue his musical interests. While stationed in Germany he joined a band. Then, when he was discharged, he worked up a comedy routine. This led to The First Family, appearances on The Ed Sullivan Show and a gig in Las Vegas. Vaughn Meader’s life was never a bed of roses — one addiction he could never lick was cigarettes. It led to emphysema and his death in 2003. However, he was never destitute and found contentment and a following here in Maine with his music. In the late ‘90s there was even a revival of interest in his Kennedy parodies. He made one last album, The Last Word, using his Kennedy

Meader perform in places like the Rangeley Inn to know that he didn’t just curl up and die with the death of the President, although for a time he came close to it, getting involved in the world of drugs and alcohol. The lesser-known side of Vaughn Meader is that of a performer who was quite comfortable as a country and bluegrass singer. And country and bluegrass was popular among the sort who frequented the ski country around Bethel and Farmington. Meader even produced an album of country and bluegrass songs, some of which he wrote. The album was the 1969 The Whatever Happened to Vaughn Meader Album. There were songs on it like the standards “Old Rugged Cross” and “It Came Upon A Midnight Clear.” It also had Meader’s own compositions “Going Down to Maine” and “Rabbit.” Those who saw Meader perform in Maine — he had something of a cult

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voice. The album, which was made possible by a renewed nostalgia for the Kennedy era, was clearly Meader’s final tribute to the fallen President. The answer to the question “Whatever happened to Vaughn Meader?” is that he never went away. Meader’s The First Family is still the best selling comedy album of all time. It is also the only comedy album to have won the Grammy for Best Album of the Year, ever! As for The Whatever Happened to Vaughn Meader Album, the songs from it are still around. You can even download them from the Internet to your MP3 player.

Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

Albert W. Grant: The Admiral From Benton A true son of Maine by Charles Francis

n the Spring of 1892 a junior grade lieutenant named Albert W. Grant was assigned to the USS Pensacola. At that time, the Pensacola was in dry dock at Mare Island off the coast of California, not far from San Francisco. Lieutenant Grant’s responsibilities regarding the steamship were to see to her refitting and upgrading. Part of that refitting included electrifying the vessel. The USS Pensacola was one of the Navy’s older vessels, having been launched in 1859. During the Civil War she had been part of Flag Officer Farragut’s West Gulf Blockading Squadron, and had taken part in the sea attack of the lower Mississippi and occupation of New Orleans. Following the war, she had twice been announcing our new roll off service 30 • 40 • 50 yard roll off 6 • 8 • 10 yard debris dumpsters residential & Commercial Weekly pickup service

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assigned to the Pacific Squadron. Refitting her with electricity was something of an experiment, due to her age and the fact that she was a wooden vessel. The reason the Navy had decided to go ahead with the project was to see if it was feasible to do the same thing with other old warships. Lieutenant Albert Grant was successful in carrying out his assignment of electrifying the Pensacola. What he had done was to pioneer a system and method of modernizing older naval vessels, extending their usefulness for decades to come. Shortly after completing his duties with the Pensacola, Grant was promoted to full lieutenant, and the next year assigned to the Naval Academy at Annapolis as an instructor. Grant

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would eventually retire from the Navy as an Admiral. The fact that Albert Grant was born in Maine would not surprise many, given the state’s maritime traditions. The fact that he was born in Benton would, though, as the town has no connections with the sea. Moreover, the fact that the Grant family followed the route of a good many Maine families west, and that Albert Grant spent his adolescence in Wisconsin, makes the fact that he chose the Navy as a career even more unique. Yet, he did make the Navy his career, and it was a career that led him to command of the North Atlantic Fleet during World War I. Albert Weston Grant was born in

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Discover Maine 24

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 23)

dergo torpedo training. During the Spanish-American War he saw duty on the battleship Massachusetts. In 1898 when war with Spain was declared, the USS Massachusetts was one of the newest of America’s battleships. She had been built specifically as a response to the arms race, which eventually led to World War I. During the Spanish-American War the Massachusetts took part in the bombardment of Santiago, Cuba, performed blockade duty of Cuba, and was one of the American warships which forced the Spanish cruiser Reina Mercedes to run ashore to avoid being blown out of the water. The vessel on which Albert Grant had his longest tour of duty at sea bore a Maine name. She was the USS Machias. The Machias was a Bath-built steel gunboat. In fact, she was one of the first two vessels built by Bath Iron Works for the Navy. Grant was on the Machias from September of 1898, when he left the Massachusetts, until July of 1900. Dur-

East Benton on April 14, 1856. His parents were E. B. and Elvira Grant. E. B. Grant was a cabinet maker. Albert Grant was the oldest of four children. Following the Civil War, the Grant family headed west as pioneers, finally settling in Stevens Point, Wisconsin. At school in Stevens Point, the future commander of the North Atlantic Fleet excelled in mathematics and the sciences, so much so that he won a competitive appointment to the United States Naval Academy. Following his graduation from Annapolis in 1877, Grant was assigned to a number of vessels, including the Pensacola, which he would later refit with electricity. Most of his duty was in the Pacific, ranging from Puget Sound in the north to Chile in the south, and as far west as Hawaii. He was also assigned to the naval yard in Norfolk to oversee the refitting of vessels in dry dock, and was one of the first naval officers to un-

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ing his tour of duty on the Machias, the gunboat did patrol duty in the Caribbean, primarily “showing the flag” in the ports of those countries where American interests were threatened by revolution. From his duty on the relatively small Machias, Grant went on to become executive officer and then commander of the battleship Oregon. The Oregon was stationed in the Far East to protect American interests in the Philippines and China. In 1905 Grant was made head of the Seamanship Department at the Naval Academy. At this time he wrote The School of the Ship. The book was a text on naval tactics. It was “the” standard on the subject until the post-World War II years. It is the only book ever written by a Maine man on the subject. Grant went on to command two more battleships, and was commander of the Connecticut when the United States entered World War I. In the summer of

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1917, he was given command of Battleship Force I of the Atlantic Fleet. At this time the Atlantic Fleet consisted of three warship forces — the Battleship Force, the Cruiser Force and the Destroyer Force. In December of 1918 Grant was made commander of the entire Atlantic Fleet. While the fleet as a whole saw no great engagement — the German Navy was bottled up in its North Sea home port — it did sink a number of German U-boats. Albert Grant ended his career in the Navy as Commandant of the Washington Navy Yard and as Superintendent of the Naval Gun Factory. Albert Weston Grant, the admiral from Benton, died on September 30, 1930. His maritime record stands as a testament to the fact that he was a true son of Maine.

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Discover Maine 26

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Madison Woolen Mill, Madison. Item #101315 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

estled in the quiet munity, along with the entire and scenic mountain state of Maine and the nation. region of central Summers in Maine can be Maine’s Kennebec County sits described as manic. The sun the rural town of Readfield. can shine like a high beam one This charming community minute, and the next minute boasts Kent’s Hill School — a you may find yourself in a torprestigious, private institution rential downpour. On that day that has been recognized by litin August the residents were erary standards as a high rank blessed with sunshine — ideal in education. The town also acfor being outdoors or working commodates numerous induson household chores. trial factories that are Young Mattie Hackett was 17 conveniently placed so as not years old at the time. She was A story of murder and to obstruct the beautiful beautiful — many men desired mystery in Readfield mountain range and lake-pepher company. She was considpered forests. The land is ered smart, proper and wellby Dave Bumpus ranked number one in Maine mannered, and hardly one to for stock raising and dairying. go with just any man who fanBut this gorgeous and serene town has secrets like any other cied her. She knew her own beauty and she picked her enplace in the world. It is not without its fair share of tragedy. gagements carefully. In the end, that may have been a fatal For over a century it has lived up to its reputation of a nice, downfall. family-friendly environment. But on August 17th, 1905 a Mattie was a hard worker as well. After attending the Maine crime would be committed that would rock this quiet com- Wesleyan Seminary and College (now Kent’s Hill School), she

A Town Awakened

(Continued on page 28)

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Discover Maine 28

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 27)

held jobs locally at the Woolworth’s inLewiston, and later at the Elmwood Hotel. When not working for pay she would work around the home for her mother and father. That Thursday evening in 1905 Mattie was doing just that. Although she had recently fallen ill due to appendix complications, she was doing chores around the house with her mother. At some point, her mother left to call on a neighbor, instructing Mattie to continue washing dishes to get ready for dinner. That’s when a stranger approached the premises. He introduced himself to Mattie’s father as “Johnson,” and explained that he was a traveler. He asked Mr. Hackett if he could have a place to stay for the night and, in return, would help with any chores that needed to be done. Being the kind and gentle man that he was, Mr. Hackett agreed, and instructed Mattie to set an extra plate for the stranger. She obliged, and the two men went out to the stables to do some work. What happened within the next few minutes remains a mystery. By some accounts, Mattie could be heard screaming from the house, prompting her father and the stranger to investigate. According to the Attorney General, Mr.

Hackett and the stranger returned to the house. Whatever the truth, the result was the same. Mattie was gone. Mr. Hackett rushed to find her. Upon exiting the home, Mr. Hackett could hear the slight screams from his daughter in the distance, but as he pursued they faded away. He found her on the ground about 50 yards from the home, unconscious. She had been clubbed over the head several times. The sun had been setting, and as Mr. Hackett carried her back to the home, there was just enough light to expose the real reason she was despondent. Her throat had been cut. It was later revealed that she had been strangled with a thin cord so viciously that it had penetrated her neck. The immediate assumption was that the murder had been commited by “tramps,” a reference to homeless persons. But investigations came up with nothing to prove that theory. The story gained national attention when more investigations turned up cold. It would be seven years before anything new would come to light. In 1912 the police had been working on a theory that the killing may have been over a jealous rivalry. They had a name, too — Mrs. Elsie Raymond. They arrested the wife and

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

content of the novel that caught peoples’ eye. In it, a woman is killed by being beaten over the head and strangled with a cord. It was found that Mrs. Raymond was in possession of this book at the time of the murders. There was also motive to support the jealousy theory. As stated before, Mattie was beautiful and was the subject of many men’s affection. But the most important was Mr. Bert Raymond, Elsie’s husband. It was known that Mr. Raymond and Ms. Hackett would often go on long drives together. It is not clear as to whether any adulterous activity ever took place between the two, but the occurrences were frequent and, in the prosecution’s eyes, enough to push Mrs. Raymond to commit the crime. Although young Ms. Hackett was not considered promiscuous, she may have chosen the wrong man to be spending time with. The jury however, did not agree, and

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after hearing both arguments decided the evidence against Raymond to be circumstantial. She was found innocent of the crime and acquitted, an event that she took relief of as it diminished years of suspicion that tainted her name. The verdict put skeptics in an uproar. Suspicion is seldom extinguished by a mere acquittal. Many people still believe she was responsible for the death of the girl. On that hot, August day in 1905, the town of Readfield, Maine had its tranquil and peaceful shell cracked by a violent and senseless crime. Who killed Mattie Hackett? Mattie knows. Her killer knows. But the murder took place over 100 years ago. Evidence has disintegrated, and persons involved have long since passed. Because of the effect of unrelenting time, the truth may never be known.

mother of two and charged her with murder. The Augusta courthouse flooded with reporters, all taking notes and delivering the details to a waiting nation. And although Mrs. Raymond professed her innocence, the evidence against her was staggering. A witness had reported a woman fitting Mrs. Raymond’s description walking up the Hackett family driveway only minutes before the murder. It was also contested that Raymond worked as a weaver in the Turner Woolen Mill, something extremely convenient as it is rumored that the cord used to strangle Mattie was tied with a weaver’s knot (although some speculate that fact as being planted in the investigations). The most compelling piece of the puzzle, though, is a book from the local library. Although it is known that the book is of Australian origin, its title and author were not made public. However, it is the

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Discover Maine 30

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Mail Delivery By Boat Belgrade’s unique postal service by Clarence W. Bennett

his is the story of a mail route on the waters of Great Pond in the lakes region of the Belgrades. The route has run continuously for more than 100 years. The Belgrades are in the northwestern part of Kennebec County, fourteen miles north of Augusta. Bordering towns are Oakland and Smithfield on the north; Rome and Mount Vernon on the west; Readfield and Manchester on the south; and Sidney on the east. Belgrade was incorporated on February 3, 1796, and land titles originated with charter grants from English kings. The town has three sections — Belgrade Lakes, North Belgrade, and Belgrade Depot — nestled among a chain of lakes and connecting streams. Because of its natural beauty, bountiful fishing, and proximity to the state capital, it is a popular area for year-round and part-time residents, and tourists as well. The population is around 3,000, and this doubles in the summer. One of the lakes in the chain is Great Pond, the site of the mail route in this story. Great Pond has about 8,000 acres, with nine islands and 55 miles of shoreline. A stream connects it with Long Pond in Belgrade Lakes Village with a westerly flow.

There has been a post office in Belgrade Lakes since 1829. It was first named Belgrade Lakes Mills Post Office, but in 1901 became the Belgrade Lakes Post Office. The mail route on Great Pond started about 1900, with Captain Bert Curtis and his 35-foot steamboat. The history of the route mail carriers includes seven men up to Harold Webster. Harold’s son, David, got the contract in 1942. When David entered the service during World War II, his brother, John, filled in. David gave up the mail contract when he sold the Great Pond Marina in 1991. The present delivery person is Norm Shaw. The focus for the remainder of this narrative will be on the 49 years of David Webster’s stewardship of the mail route. I knew him well, and my two oldest sons, now in their 50s, worked for him during the summers at the marina. Three of my progeny had, to varying degrees, involvement in the mail delivery. When Dave Webster took over there were 26 stops. The route grew to 106 stops, a product of growth through the continued building of both summer and year-round homes.

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Some were palatial, some quite modest, but all were called “camps.” Delivery at those camps might involve threading a path between owners’ boats, barking dogs, and sometimes difficult weather conditions. Stops also included boys’ and girls’ summer camps located on the islands. The arrival of the mail boat was eagerly awaited at all stops, but, in particular, at the boys’ and girls’ camps. This meant news from home and “care packages.” Outgoing mail was also picked up on the route. It was a four-month season, and during David Webster’s tenure, he missed only two delivery days. On one, he got caught in a hurricane and was forced to head for home. On the other, a hurricane warning did the trick. The famous postal code “the mail must go through” did not anticipate mail delivery on water routes during hurricanes. With the financial struggles the U.S. Postal Service has experienced in the last several years, one has to wonder how long this venerable delivery service can continue. If it were to be terminated, an

Discover Maine

Water sports at Camp Wyconda, Belgrade Lakes. Item #103302 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

era will have ended to the disappointment of many. The passengers have enjoyed the scenic ride for years, and in more recent years, touring the lake where playwright Ernest Thompson spent his summers and wrote “On Golden Pond,”

about an aging couple spending Maine summers on Great Pond. True, the movie was filmed on Squam Lake in New Hampshire, but Dave Webster delivered the mail on Great Pond.

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Discover Maine 32

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Early view of Main Street in Wilton. Item #112482 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

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Charles Heywood: First Marine Corps Major General Waterville-born Marine responsible for modernization of the Corps by Charles Francis

sk any Marine Corps officer if they know the name Heywood and you will get an answer in the affirmative. Heywood Hall at Quantico is the headquarters of the Marine Corps Basic School. The Basic School is where Corps officers train for combat command. Heywood Hall is named for Charles Heywood, the Marine Corps first Major General. It was built in 1958 and has served as something akin to a symbolic birthplace of Marine officers ever since. Waterville-born Charles Heywood boasts a military career equaled by only a select few. That career spans forty-five years as a Marine officer. It began in 1858 when Heywood was nineteen, and ended in 1903 when Heywood was sixty-four. One suspects that Heywood would have preferred to keep on as a Marine when he turned sixty-four, but that was the mandatory age

for retirement. Charles Heywood was the ninth Commandant of the Marine Corps. He served in that capacity from 1891 until he was placed

on the retired list. During Heywood’s tenure as Commandant, the Marine Corps took on much of the form it has today. The Corps modernized. In short, it was in part due to changes brought about by Charles Heywood that the Corps was more than prepared as nineteenth century challenges were left behind, and the U.S. Navy took on a form equal to fulfilling the functions envisioned for it by its greatest supporter and proponent, President Theodore Roosevelt. The Marine Corps holds a unique position in the American psyche. And, although Charles Heywood’s name is virtually unknown to the general public, Heywood is one of the centerpieces of that position. Therefore, it is through an examination of Heywood’s family history and career as a Marine Corps officer — even one as brief as this — that one begins to understand why (Continued on page 34)

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Discover Maine 34

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 33)

Point or Annapolis. For much of its early history — until Charles Heywood became Marine Corps Commandant — the Corps seldom reached a figure of 2000 enlisted men and seventy some officers. It was decidedly an elite force. Prior to Heywood, the highest ranking Marine Corps officer was a colonel. During the Civil War, Heywood was promoted to the rank of 1st lieutenant and then captain and brevetted major and lieutenant colonel. He was involved in numerous coastal actions and was at the Battle of Mobile Bay when Farragut made his famous attack. When the Confederate ironclad Virginia attacked the outclassed, wooden hull Cumberland in one of the most famous naval battles of the war, Heywood was the last man to abandon the stricken Union vessel. He fired the final defiant shot from the doomed ship. Following the War Between the States, Heywood saw duty on and off both coasts. He served as Admiral Farragut’s Marine Fleet Officer in the North Atlantic Squadron, and saw duty at the Navy’s Mare Island facility in California. In 1885 Hey-

the Marine Corps is forever and irrevocably bound up in those aspects of American culture and tradition that can only be thought of as greatness. Charles Heywood was born in Waterville in 1839. His parents were Charles and Antonia (Delgado) Heywood. Charles and Antonia had three children. Rafael died at six and is buried in Waterville. Antonia lived out a full life including marriage and children. The third child is our subject. Charles, the father of the future Marine Corps Commandant, must be looked upon as a role model for his son. He served in the Navy, rose to the rank of lieutenant and saw combat in the Mexican War. In this, he, in turn, had a family role model — his grandfather Timothy Heywood served the patriot cause in the Revolution. The elder Charles Heywood was a respected Waterville businessman. Charles Heywood entered the Marine Corps at New York’s Brooklyn Navy Station. He had an appointment as a 2nd lieutenant. A Marine Corps appointment was in ways comparable to appointment to West

wood commanded a combined Marine and Navy force on the Isthmus of Panama. The issue was keeping the isthmus open for transit. Heywood was a colonel when he was named Marine Corps Commandant. His promotion to major general came in 1899. During Charles Heywood’s term as Marine Corps Commandant, the Corps rose nearly threefold in strength to number some 8000 strong. Heywood established a formula for promotion and established training programs and schools. Land-based living quarters were improved, and rose from twelve to twenty-one. Heywood encouraged and helped develop joint Navy and Marine exercises. The efficacy of the latter became evident in the Spanish-American War. Major General Charles Heywood died in 1915. He is interred in Arlington National Cemetery. By common consent the Marine Corps is one of the all-encompassing components we identify with Americanism. As a conceptualization, the Corps’ peers include the Declaration of Independence, the Consti-

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

tution and a few others. If one were to argue this proposition on the grounds that the Corps are simply too different an entity from the documents that serve as the basis for America’s government, I would suggest that the difference is simply one of degree rather than kind. The two documents are texts. They are expressions of a place, the United States of America. In the most basic mode of thinking, the texts are that place. The men of the Marine Corps are of that place. The officers and men of the Corps are the place. I would add to the above proposition the following thought: the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution and the Marine Corps are external. We are contained by them more than we contain them. We identify with all three. They are a part of the common American culture, the American experience. That is why the Marine Hymn, like the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution, hold the unique associations they do for us. That is what the life of a man like Marine Corps officer Charles Heywood is — a defining.

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Discover Maine 36

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Antonia Savage And Percy Grainger North Anson woman became hugely successful impresario by Charles Francis

n November of 1901 the New York Times offices on the top floor of New York City’s Ae“Notes of Musical Doings” called attention olian Hall. This was on April 30, 1922. to the fact that “William Carl would give an Antonia Sawyer was a Maine girl. She wasn’t organ concert at the ‘Old First’ Presbyterian born Sawyer, though. She was born Antonia Church on Fifth Avenue.” Carl would have Savage. And though born in Waterville, it would three assistants: a contralto, a violinist and a celperhaps be more appropriate to say her roots list. The contralto was Mrs. Antonia Sawyer. were in North Anson. Antonia’s father was Mrs. Antonia Sawyer’s name would appear on from there, as was her grandfather. In fact, it numerous occasions in the music section of the would probably be correct to say that Antonia Times and other New York newspapers. Sawyer considered North Anson her hometown. was a concert artist with a certain degree of repThe death of Percy Grainger’s mother would utation in the city. Her name would appear also probably have made the front pages of New in connection with her business, Antonia York City’s newspapers even if she hadn’t been Sawyer, Inc. Sawyer held controlling interest in who she was. Though the newspapers handled the business. Antonia Sawyer, Inc. represented the matter delicately, there was little doubt that concert artists. Sawyer’s most prominent client the death was other than a suicide. Rose was one of the most famous composer/pianists Grainger jumped to her death. It was Antonia Percy Grainger of the day, Percy Grainger. Sawyer who first reported the suicide to auIt was because of Percy Grainger that Antonia Sawyer’s name thorities. She had invited Rose to her offices. Rose Grainger would make the front page of the New York Times. Grainger’s jumped out a seventeenth story window at a time when Sawyer mother, Rose, plunged to her death from a window of Sawyer’s stepped out for a moment. Rose Grainger plummeted some

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

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fourteen floors. Sawyer returned She didn’t go with him because she to her office to find Rose gone. was ill. In fact, she had been too ill She looked out and down from the to see him off. top floor of Aeolian Hall to see a Rose had called Antonia Sawyer, body far below on the roof of an saying she was lonely. Sawyer and adjacent building. Rose Grainger were friends. To inSuicide is always painful for dicate just how close Antonia those close to the deceased. That Sawyer was to Percy and Rose of Rose Grainger is especially so. Grainger, Sawyer found the All close to her knew Rose had reaGrainger’s their White Plains home. son for being depressed. The paIt was next door to Sawyer’s niece pers didn’t go into the reasons for Tonie and her husband Frederick that depression, though. For the Morse. Tonie would eventually remost part, they made reference to place her aunt as Percy Grainger’s The contents of Rose Grainger’s handbag, which the effects of an accident somemanager. Frederick Morse was estime in the distant past. When was left in Antonia Savage’s office when Rose fell pecially close to the pianist and from the office window on April 30, 1922. Rose and Percy had been living in composer. Percy Grainger was exGermany, Rose slipped on ice, inercise-conscious, and the two juring her back. She never fully recovered, stood that a hundred and more years ago jogged and wrestled as a regular routine. and at one point had to be strapped im- syphilis was regarded as incurable. Biog- These facts help explain why Sawyer, wormobile for a period of some nine months. raphers of Percy Grainger place the cause ried as she was about her ill friend, drove That was the incident the papers made of Rose Grainger’s suicide to a flare-up of from New York City to the Grainger’s the syphilis. reference to. White Plains home and brought Rose to At the time of Rose Grainger’s suicide, Aeolian Hall. The back problem wasn’t the worst of Rose Grainger’s physical complaints, Percy Grainger was in Los Angeles on the So, exactly who was Antonia Savage though. She suffered from syphilis. She start of a concert tour that would take Sawyer and how was it that she was mancontracted the illness from her alcoholic, him across the Pacific. It was the first time ager and close friend of Percy Grainger, womanizing husband. It should be under- Rose did not accompany her son on tour. (Continued on page 38)

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Discover Maine 38

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 37)

the man many critics identify as the first truly innovative musician of the twentieth century? Antonia Savage was born to Asher and Mary (Chase) Savage in 1854. Antonia Savage Sawyer is sometimes described as an impresario. Given her representation of Percy Grainger, the term seems fitting. Antonia could be said to have come by her flare for showmanship from her father. Asher Savage was one of Maine’s more notable developers of race horses. This is understandable, given that North Anson of the mid-1800s was famous for horse breeding. Welsh ponies were introduced to America in North Anson by Benjamin Hilton. The Savage connection to Waterville relates to that community having one of Maine’s premier race tracks. Antonia Savage attended Coburn Classical Institute and studied vocal music in New York City and in Europe, in Germany, Paris and London. Her speciality was the oratorio. She married twice, Henry Sawyer and Ashley Miner. She met Percy and Rose Grainger in London. Percy Grainger was born in Australia.

He is regarded as the most gifted musician to ever emerge from that country. Rose Grainger contracted syphilis from her husband early in the marriage, and after the birth of Percy. She refused to touch Percy until he was five years old for fear of passing it on to him. The latter fact is an example of Rose’s protectiveness. Rose took Percy to study in Europe when he was thirteen, in 1895. From 1901 to 1914 the Graingers lived in London, where Percy made friends with and was influenced by Edvard Greig. The Graingers moved to the United States with the outbreak of the Great War. Percy Grainger had acquired the reputation of an anti-war pacifist in England. In the United States, Antonia Sawyer suggested he enlist in the Army, were he would be a member of the U.S. Army Band. It was a good move both for Grainger and the country, as he is credited with raising thousands through the sale of Liberty Bonds. As to how successful Sawyer’s management of Grainger was, it was phenomenal. By 1925 Grainger was making $5000 a week. That would be close to $60,000 a

week in today’s dollars. His $200-an-hour teaching fee would be about $2500 an hour today. 1925 was the year Tonie Morse took over her aunt’s position as Percy Grainger’s manager. Grainger only had the two managers. Both Morse and Sawyer worked for the standard ten percent fee. Grainger’s long relationship with Sawyer and Morse is described as much more than a business association. For example, Tonie Morse and her husband were maid of honor and best man at Grainger’s wedding, and even went along on his honeymoon. There is a museum in Melbourne, Australia dedicated to the memory of Percy Grainger. There, one can see pictures and a display commemorating the relationship of Antonia Savage Sawyer and her niece Tonie Morse and Percy Grainger. There is a picture of Antonia Sawyer. It shows a curly-haired, kindly-looking woman of indeterminate age. It is inscribed to Percy Grainger and dated 1917.

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

German POWs. Most of them uring World War II were from General Rommel’s hundreds of thousands Afrikas Korps, otherwise of Germans were capknown as the German elite. tured. Their destiny depended General Rommel himself was on who captured them. Those regarded as one of the most huwho were not captured by the mane commanders of the GerAmericans often succumbed to man forces, and his crew often brutality, starvation, and even treated prisoners with respect death. While they may not have and care, despite what was orknown it at the time, being dered. In fact, Rommel was transported to America had a linked to a plot to kill Hitler. It much better outcome. In fact, is said that Rommel committed most who came to the United suicide following the orders of States were often surprised by Hitler, as his family would be how well they were treated, esharmed if he did not. pecially those who were sent to by Penny S. Harmon When the POWs arrived in Maine. Rockwood they had no idea From the time that World War II began in 1939 until its end in 1945, Maine was feeling the ef- what was in store for them. The POW Camp at Seboomook was out fects. With a shortage of paper, the demand for pulp wood was in the woods, surrounded by a double barbed wire fence. With four high. Unfortunately, with so many men fighting in the war, labor in guard towers surrounding the camp, each equipped with guards and the Maine woods was in demand as well. This soon changed, how- machine guns, they knew there would be no escape. However, with ever, when four prisoner of war camps became assigned to Maine. adequate living conditions and tolerable work, they probably never One of these camps was in Rockwood at what is now called the Se- felt that it was worth the risk. The Army and Great Northern Paper had converted a large barn boomook Wilderness Camps, formerly known as Great Northern Paper Company’s Seboomook Landing Farm or Northwest Carry. into a sleeping area, and there was a lavatory and laundry facility Others were situated in the areas where the POWs were put to work for them to use. Another building had been turned into a kitchen where each of the POWs received a hot meal. Hot lunches were picking potatoes. Sometime around April of 1944 the U.S. Army had come to an brought in every day from the kitchen to their actual worksite. If agreement with Great Northern Paper and shipped in about 250 anyone became ill, they could go to the on-site infirmary and see the

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

doctor on duty. The living conditions were good, but nothing could have prepared them for the work. Each day a group of 25 POWs, an interpreter, and one guard would strike out for the woods. Their job was to cut four-foot lengths of wood and haul it with the horses. Every POW was responsible for the care of his own horse, which included making sure that it was not overloaded and overworked. Once the POWs had been trained on the procedures for cutting wood, each POW was responsible for cutting a cord of wood a day. While the work was hard, unlike other Prisoner of War Camps, the POWs at Seboomook would receive $.80 for each day of work. After working a seven-hour day, six days a week, they earned $5.60 a week. These prisoners may not have been able to have girlfriends or contact with their families, but they were treated well and earned money for their labor. In the spring of 1946 the Seboomook Prisoner of War Camp closed down. All of the POWs were sent back to Germany. What their life was like when they returned home is not known. It is known, however, that more than three million German POWs were held in Siberia and a third of those never returned, as they were worked to

death in the camps. The ones who did survive were slowly released, some as late as 1956. Many of these German prisoners of war in Maine were young men in their early twenties. Most may not have agreed with

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what Hitler was doing, but it was their duty to follow orders. Many of these soldiers spent two or three years or more in Maine, and some returned to Maine to work here after the war. 

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Discover Maine 42

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Sonny Parlin: A Remembrance

1946

December 1, 1928 – May 11, 2011

2003

by Sherwood W. Anderson

onny Parlin is the one person in this world I have known the longest. We were born the same year only ten weeks apart. During weeks between our birthdays it pleased him to tell me I was a whole year older. He always sent a card for my September 19th observance, and I returned it for his. We have sent that card back and forth for years, always with a big grin and adding the date of the current year to the growing list.

Sonny was born in “the beehive,” a large structure with several apartments, located on land since donated by Judy Johnson for the library, town office and historical society building in New Vineyard. My mother’s family lived in New Vineyard five generations back, but she married a New Yorker and I was born in Brooklyn. When we lost our Forest Hills home in Queens during the depression, I was sent to New Vineyard to live year-round with my Grandma

Frankie Voter. So it was that Sonny and I became classmates in the upstairs room at the 1854 schoolhouse on Main Street, with its divided boy-girl privy outside toward the Mill Pond. The school was heated by wood stoves near the middle of each room. Mr. Ira Bunker was our teacher. We moved to the “new” 1940 Roosevelt Elementary School (Teddy not FDR) on Church Street. It had side-by-side classrooms, still with

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

four grades in each, but with a basement and inside plumbing. There were eight in our class of 1942: Delia Baud, Buddy Gray, Margie Heath, Bobby Kennedy, Charlie Lincoln, Lee Moody, Sonny and me. Mr. Walter V. Weber was our teacher. The old school was torn down and the second, disused, was crushed by snow. There are no schools in New Vineyard any more. Sonny and I joined Boy Scout Troop 142, meeting weekly in the Grange Hall, where the Fire House is now. Scoutmaster Jimmy Mills took the troop to camp in Cumberland County for two weeks. Sonny, pale-faced and homesick, decided sleeping in tents was not for him, and left after a week. We both went to Vacation Bible School with 15 or 20 of the town kids for two weeks every summer. Miss Marian Smith was one of its teachers, a daughter of Arthur Smith, who, with his brother Harry, ran the Fred O. Smith wood-turning mill in town. A student at Wheaton College in Illinois, Marian led Sonny, Frank Kenney and me through the book of Genesis, meeting Sunday nights at the Congregational Church on Church Street, just we three.

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Sonny and I joined that church the same Sunday with his mother, Alverna Wells Parlin and her sister, Marian Wells Orcutt. It was the only church in Franklin County between Fairbanks to the south and Kingfield to the north, 24 miles apart. It was sufficient for the scant New Vineyard populace. Millard Silas Parlin, Jr., 82, was born three and a half years after his brother Robert “Lefty” Parlin, and five years before Roger. Bob married Alice Hagerstrom and lives in Fairbanks. Roger is married to Constance Ruth Harnden and lives in Windham. Sonny is related to a population of New Vineyard people. He never married, but on his mother’s side alone has 34 first cousins. You are related to Sonny, as to each other, if you are from New Vineyard and your name is Wells, Spencer, Orcutt, Stewart, Merrill, Davis, Adams, Hargreaves, Holbrook, Roberts or Bates. On the Parlin side he has eight aunts and uncles, five nephews and three nieces, plus grands. After graduating from Farmington High School in1946 he completed a course in beauty culture at the Pelletier School in Lewiston, driving to Farmington and tak-

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ing the bus from there. He became a teacher but continued setting hair for friends in their homes. My mother wrote, “it looks better than when I come from a beauty parlor.” He entered Farmington State Teachers College in 1949, graduating in 1953. My sister Gail Anderson and R. Paul Ouellette, her future husband, were in his class. He taught school a month shy of 40 years, retiring in 1993. All his teaching was on the elementary level, mostly fifth grade, first in Strong 1953-1957, then for ten years in Livermore Falls (a 60 mile round trip daily from New Vineyard) and in Farmington at the Mallett School, the Cascade Brook School and the A. D. Ingalls School. He was a substitute in 1993 and 1994, before being appointed Adjunct Professor at the University of Maine at Farmington as Supervisor of Student Teachers, serving from 1995 to 1997. His office was at UMF, but he traveled to schools around Franklin County mentoring student teachers. He has donated a room to UMF for the new Education Center in his parents’ memory. From about 1960 he was New Vineyard’s

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 43)

Sonny’s Aunt Sylvia Wells Holbrook, now 95, the last living of the ten aunts and uncles on Sonny’s mother’s side. Aunt Sylvia churned butter in a wooden barrel amidst the cats at her New Vineyard farm, 50 pounds at a time. She did not charge neighbors for the butter, but was pleased to accept full value for it. The license people shut her down, but then-Representative Tom Saviello had her over to the capitol in Augusta to be recognized as a “Pioneer Maine Woman.” Sonny’s mother Alverna, widowed in 1991, suffered a long illness and finally was bedridden with both legs amputated. Sonny cared for her tenderly in their home until her death at age 95 in 2001. His dedication was an inspiration to all. When he went to Farmington for groceries, gasoline, doctor, haircut, church, etc., he usually drove on to Fairview Cemetery, to place flowers or read poetry at her grave. He also tended the graves of my sister, mother and grandmother at Hackett Notch in New Vineyard. He owns a tidy, fully equipped camp on Porter Lake, handed down from his father. He drove there daily, weather permitting, if only to dust inside or sweep the deck of

correspondent for the Franklin Journal. The Journal also published on several pages his history of the 1834 village church. He was a member of the Masons’ Davis Lodge in Strong, and received his 50-year pin in August, 2007. Sonny occasionally visited the old New Vineyard Church on Church Street, or the newer one on Barker Road. The people were kind to him, inviting him to weddings, dinners and special activities. Liz and I come up from Florida to spend half of each year at our Porter Lake cottage, and became constituents of Old South Church in Farmington. Since Sonny had no official spiritual home we invited him to Old South, promising to introduce him to the congregation. He came and quickly introduced us to more of its people than we ever knew! He joined Old South, ever introducing us to more of his many friends. Sonny, who sat in the pew with cousin Lewis Holbrook and wife Shirley, was never at worship without coat and matching tie. He was quietly remonstrative of casual church attire, particularly among women. Lewis Holbrook is the son of

leaves. I don’t think he stayed overnight, at least not in recent years. Nor did he swim in the lake. He had the aluminum dock put into the lake every spring, but left the boat upside down on the shore. He stopped at our place most summer evenings to give us his two morning papers, staying for a cup of coffee and brownies and an update on the day’s doings. He continued visiting us through October last year, when we returned to Florida for the winter, and saw him last. He belonged to the New Vineyard Historical Society. One meeting we held at Madame Nordica’s museum on Holley Road in Farmington. There is a shortcut from New Vineyard over a badly potholed dirt road, which we took, Sonny following, driving slowly and gingerly in his pampered Chrysler Concorde lest he bruise the tires or suck in dust. Thereafter he went on historical excursions when he got a ride with someone. Sonny also owned a blue 1983 Ford pickup which he and Bryan Fletcher’s Body Shop kept in mint condition. He rarely drove it — never in the rain — more to heat the engine than to get him to where

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

he was going. He gentled each vehicle, putting newspapers over the floor mats, and keeping each as clean outside as inside. He astonished us last summer by driving a spanking new Ford sedan into our yard. He sat low behind the wheel until my wife pointed out the button to raise the seat. Why he needed a fleet of three vehicles we could not fathom, nor could he explain. He never pumped his own gas, and eventually was restricted to the only station in Farmington which offered that service. Sonny was a member of the New Vineyard Library Board of Directors, attending meetings regularly, volunteering at the desk and promoting its use on every occasion. He mowed his own grass and blew his own snow as long as he was able. David Fletcher voluntarily took over those chores when Sonny could no longer do them. Sonny’s next door neighbor Vivian Searles looked after him regularly, as did his family and others. One weekend this winter he stopped answering the phone. His brother Bob in Fairbanks asked Shirley Holbrook in New Vineyard to check on him. She found him where he had tripped, unable even to crawl to a phone. He had lain on

the floor a day and night. They took him by ambulance to Franklin County Memorial Hospital, then after several days to the Sandy River Home, and both did him wonders. He was able to return home. Sharon Shaw Parlin, his nephew Gary’s wife, though teaching school, drove from Farmington almost daily for months to care for him. He continued to fall. She arranged for him to go to the Pierce House next to the Farmington Post Office on Main Street. He agreed “to try it out for a while.” The Pierce House director Darlene Mooar, her staff, the hospice people, the residents and his many visitors were wonderful to him, and he rallied in a measure. Even so, he was never to live in his New Vineyard home again. Sonny brought cheer into the lives of many. My wife called him “Sunny Sonny.” He came to all our parties, family gatherings and hostings. He shared our memories. He was as a brother to us. We, along with all who knew him, miss him greatly. The service, with about 125 present, was held at Old South Church in Farmington. I cannot recall the words Rev. G. Arthur Woodcock spoke so many decades ago

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Discover Maine 46

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

ust outside the town of Phillips in Western Maine, there is a path that extends west from a trailhead on Wheeler Hill Road for approximately 1/3 of a mile. As you proceed down this path enjoying everything that nature has to offer, your eyes are suddenly drawn to a large grey boulder that seems to appear out of nowhere. Completely out of place with the surrounding environment, this monstrosity suddenly reminds us of nature’s incredible force as we stare at what Dennis Atkinson, president of the Phillips Historical Society, says is “supposedly the biggest boulder… in the eastern United States.” This boulder is also known as Daggett Rock, Maine’s largest glacial erratic. A glacial erratic is a fragment of rock that differs from the type of rock native to the area in which it sits. Carried by glacial ice, the journeys are sometimes over distances of hundreds of miles. The term “erratic” is

hills and plains.” Erratics can range in size from small pebbles to massive boulders, and are always found in areas that were once consumed by glacial ice. The typical characteristic is that they look completely out of place with their surroundings. One of the largest known examples in the northern hemisphere is the appropriately named Big Rock in Alberta, Canada weighing in at 16,500 tons. Other great examples are Doane Rock, the largest exposed boulder in Cape Cod, Massachusetts, and Madison Boulder, a 5,000 ton glacial erratic the size of a small house in Madison, New Hampshire. Relatively smaller ones are spread across portions of Central Park, New York, where they sit unnoticed by the general public. But the travels of these boulders are not limited to the North. Charles Darwin published extensively on geologic phenomena, including the distribution of erratic boulders. In his accounts

daggett rock: maine’s largest glacial erratic

a glacier carried this giant rock to Phillips by James Nalley commonly used to refer to erratic blocks, which Sir Archibald Geikie describes in his “Textbook of Geology” as: “large masses of rock, often as big as a house, which have been transported by glacier-ice, and have been lodged in prominent positions in the glacier valleys or have been scattered over

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

written during the voyage of the H.M.S. Beagle, Darwin observed “a number of large erratic boulders of notable size south of the Strait of Magellan, Tierra del Fuego,” and attributed them to ice rafting from Antarctica. Recent research suggests that they were more likely the result of glacial ice flows that carried the boulders to their current locations, according to a G.S.A. Today report in December, 2009. According to the Maine Geological Survey, Daggett Rock is estimated as “approximately 8,000 tons, 80 feet long, 30 feet wide and 25 feet high.” Sometimes referred to as Daggett’s Rock, it has been a popular tourist attraction since the 1880s, and has recently become a popular point for Bouldering, which is a style of rock climbing where large natural boulders are climbed without a rope and limited to very short climbs. New England Bouldering says, “Daggett offers some truly beautiful features to climb. Prominent cracks, slabs, and faces are all available, and most will take you over 20 feet off the ground.” To many visitors, Daggett Rock resembles a huge granite egg that has broken into three pieces. An intriguing legend exists regarding

how the boulder was split into these pieces. About two hundred years ago a woodsman named Daggett found the rock during a violent thunderstorm. Daggett, inebriated and upset by the storm, climbed onto the rock. Cursing and flailing his arms defiantly toward the sky, he took the Lord’s name in vain and screamed that he could not be struck down. Immediately, a gigantic lightning bolt struck Daggett, instantly killed him and cracked the rock into the three fragments that we know of today. The reality is far less dramatic, with the rock most likely splitting apart while being deposited by the massive glacier that put it there long ago. No matter what story you believe, the power of the original glacier that transported the boulder must be appreciated. The force of nature is even more incredible after determining the source of the boulder. Geologists identify erratics by studying the rocks surrounding the position of the erratic and the composition of the erratic itself. The Daggett boulder is made of granite with some feldspar crystals more than one inch long. According to Mary Newall and David Gibson of the University of Maine

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at Farmington, the granite may be derived “from the Redington pluton 20 km to the northwest in the Saddleback Mountain area, and the Lexington Pluton 60 km to the north.” A pluton in geology is a body of igneous rock, called a plutonic rock, which is formed beneath the surface of the Earth by the slow cooling and hardening of magma. “The combinations of petrographic and geochemical similarities are consistent with the striation data, indicating that Daggett’s rock originated 20 km to the WNW in the Saddleback Mountain range,” says Newall. Glacial erratics have become a significant aid in the study of Earth’s past. Since they are transported by glaciers, they are one of many indicators which mark the path of prehistoric glacier movements. Their origin helps scientists focus not only on the source of the rock but also on the confirmation of the former ice flow routes. But for us nonscientists, Daggett Rock reminds us of Nature’s slow and delicate hand. Unlike an artist who works with steel and clay, the slow shifting Earth creates these works of art only by time.

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

Philbrick Of The Rainbow Division Skowhegan native volunteered for military duty by Charles Francis

hey fought at Champagne. They fought the Second Battle of the Marne and the battles of St. Mihiel and Muese-Argonne. They were the soldiers of the storied Rainbow Division. A good many men of the Rainbow enlisted. They were men who didn’t or couldn’t or wouldn’t wait to be drafted. One of those who didn’t or couldn’t wait was just out of Bowdoin College. His name was Donald Philbrick. He was from Skowhegan. The formal designation of the Rainbow Division is the 42nd Infantry Division. It is a National Guard and U.S. Army Division. It is a mechanized division. The men of the 42nd wear a red, yellow, gold and blue rainbow on their shoulder. Most recently the Rainbow Division fought in Iraq, in the Global War on Terrorism (GWOT). Before that, the Rainbow Division distinguished itself in World War II. The history of the Rainbow Division, however, begins with the Great War, World War I. That’s when it and its unique name came to be, in 1917. And Donald Philbrick was a part of the beginning. Tradition has it that the 42nd came by its name because of Douglas MacArthur. It is a story that involves President Woodrow Wilson’s Secretary of War, Newton Baker. That story says Baker authorized the organization of a division composed of the very best National Guard regiments and companies of twenty-six states. When MacArthur, who was a colonel at the time and the

intended commander of the division, heard this, he is said to have observed “Fine. That will stretch over the whole country like a rainbow.” Donald Philbrick was barely twentyone when he enlisted in the National Guard. (His birthday was March 16.) The fact that Philbrick chose to enlist wasn’t all that unique in Maine. A lot of young Maine men chose to enlist. However, it does deserve comment. Most of us are familiar with the draft as it relates to World War II or Viet Nam. It was a fact of life for young men

during those conflicts. There was a lottery, and those born on certain days were called to service based on their birthday. The World War I draft was somewhat different. It excluded young, draft-eligible men from enlisting. When the U.S. entered the Great War, the federal government decided to secure the greater number of its Army and Navy men by selective draft. Men of draft age had to secure special permission to enlist. The policy reduced the number of enlistments to a small (Continued on page 50)

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Discover Maine 50

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 49)

Americans like Donald Philbrick with excitement and a sense of pride in nation. Philbrick’s transition from student to soldier was virtually instantaneous. He left Bowdoin for Officer Training School, and then continued on to the 42nd Infantry Division at Camp Mills in New York. There is an excellent book on the Rainbow Division, the 1994 Rainbow Division in the Great War by James Cooke. It details the problems faced by the Division’s officers as they attempted to mold a polyglot of National Guard regiments and companies from across the country into a single cohesive unit. Though Cooke does not speak directly to the Division symbol — the rainbow — one suspects that without it things would have been worse. For example, some of the most intense social and cultural animosity within the Division involved elements from Alabama and New York. February of 1918 saw the Rainbow Division at the front for the first time.

number compared with what it would have been if the government had adopted a policy of calling for volunteers. Maine was almost unique among states in that its draft quota was reduced on several occasions by the number of young men who volunteered rather than wait to be drafted. Donald Philbrick was one of those who did not wait to be drafted. He was one of 2,450 draft-eligible men who secured special permission to enlist. In total, 35,214 Maine men and women served in the U.S. Army and Navy during the Great War. Donald Philbrick was a 1913 graduate of Skowhegan High School. He graduated from Bowdoin in April of 1917. April of 1917 was the month President Wilson asked Congress to declare war on Germany. The President appeared before Congress on April 2 and charged that the German nation had forced him to declare war against it. It was an electric message that galvanized young

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It acted as support to a French division. In late March and early April it became the first American division to be given total responsibility for a sector. This was at Baccarat, and when Douglas MacArthur first attained press notice as a General who commanded his forces at the actual front, it is said he exposed himself to the enemy’s fire. Donald Philbrick was a 2nd lieutenant with the 167th Infantry Regiment. As such, he saw action in the trenches as well as on the famous pushes through the Argonne forest. The last offensive the Rainbow Division took part in was that of Chateau-Thierry. It was here that the poet Joyce Kilmer — most famous for “Trees” — was killed. The Rainbow Division ended its duty in Europe as one of the occupying forces of defeated Germany. Donald Philbrick did not return to America with the Rainbow Division in March of 1919. He stayed on in Paris with the Corps of Interpreters. This was

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

the Army way of saying Philbrick was in Intelligence. His discharge from the Army came July 31, 1919. As an enlisted man Donald Philbrick serves an example of an American tradition — that of the citizen soldier. He came forward when there was need and returned to his home and his life here when the need ended. In fact, after leaving the military, Donald Philbrick went on to a rewarding career, one that eventually led to his being included in Who’s Who in America. Following his return to the United States, Donald Philbrick enrolled at Harvard University to study law. He graduated in 1922. In 1925 he became a partner in Verrill, Hale, Booth and Ives in Portland. From 1935 to 1940 he was a member of the Maine House of Representatives. In 1939-40 he served as Speaker of the House. He died in 1984. The final resting place of the young man who answered his nation’s call to arms directly upon graduating the cloistered halls of Bowdoin College is Skowhegan.

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Discover Maine 52

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Early view of Water Street in Skowhegan. Item #102459 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

Street view in Solon. Item #114354 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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Discover Maine 54

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Ferry and the piers of the new bridge in Solon. Item #114357 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

David Buxton’s Miracle Medicine Wagon Businessman from Abbot pedaled “miracle cures” by Charles Francis

avid Buxton had “the” cure for rheumatic pain. The cure was Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure. The cure was marketed by Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure Co. of Abbot. David Buxton pushed his cure big-time. He advertised in newspapers and other publications all across Maine. His was a familiar name and presence in towns and hamlets from the Piscataquis River to the Kennebec. His name was familiar because he peddled and delivered Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure by fancy horsewagon throughout the region. The wagon flaunted the product name. So did the two horses pulling the wagon. The steeds’ horse blankets touted Buxton’s seeming ubiquitous product. Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure was what

was once familiarly known as a “One Dollar Miracle.” One Dollar Miracles were patent medicines. Of course, not all sold for a dollar. Prices could vary. Bottle size had something to do with price. A very small bottle could go for two-bits, a quarter. The one-dollar bottles were usually a half pint. And there were larger bottles. One Dollar Miracles like Buxton’s were pain killers. The pain killing aspect was the “miracle.” “Cure” meant killing pain. Generally speaking, One Dollar Miracles contained two painkillers. One was invariably alcohol. The other could be morphine — what was then commonly called laudanum — or maybe cocaine. Arsenic was a common cure for toothache. The two-pain-killer reason-

E.W. Moore & Son Pharmacy

ing reflects the theory that if morphine or cocaine reduced the body’s natural desire to respond to discomfort, and alcohol induced a state of euphoria, then the user concerned about his malady would, in effect, be “cured” by the combination of the two ingredients... or at least be dead from the disease before he could register a complaint. (Continued on page 56)

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207-672-3132 lower Main Street (just off ITS 87) bingham

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Dan Hilton 341 Main Street, Bingham, ME

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Open 7 Days 12 noon - 8pm

Discover Maine 56

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 55)

“D. H. Buxton, Clothing, Medicine.” The “H.” stood for Horace. There was also a sign that read “Post Office.” Buxton was Abbot’s long-standing postmaster. He was a town clerk and town treasurer. He also served in the Maine Legislature. A sign on top of the store read “The Buxton Rheumatic Cure Co.” Patent medicines were, for the most part, trademarked medicines. No patent was involved. The word was given to a variety of medical compounds sold under various names and labels. In the last few decades the term has become particularly associated with the sale of drug compounds during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Many flouted colorful names and boasted even more attention grabbing claims. Intriguingly, central Maine was something of a patent medicine hotbed. The Gannett publication Comfort was founded in part to promote Oxien, an Augusta-produced nostrum. Because of

magazine advertising, Oxien became a nationwide best-selling medicine. David Buxton would seem to have had dreams of similar success. However, Buxton was something more of a traditionalist, at least in his use of a medicine wagon. David Buxton was a patent medicine man in an era when a great many country folk turned to home remedies or else purchased patent medicine at traveling medicine shows, or from patent medicine salesmen to do their own doctoring. Even if there was a doctor in their immediate area, they were more inclined to use their own tried and true nostrums or one of those that itinerant patent medicine salesmen peddled rather than give “good” money to someone who styled himself a doctor. David Buxton established his Buxton Medicine Company in 1894. This was a time period when there were literally thousands of patent medicine salesmen operating in the United States. Buxton had something of a unique approach to

long pond Camps & guide service

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One Dollar Miracles were potent. Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure was potent. Here’s an example in the form of a testimonial as to just how potent Buxton’s was. The testimonial appeared in Maine newspapers in the late 1890s. The testifier was one W. B. Moore of Bingham. Moore wrote as follows: I was recently attacked by a severe pain in my foot. It developed into a most severe case of acute rheumatism. I was obliged to be helped from one room to another and also to be dressed and undressed. A friend of mine advised me to get a bottle of Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure which I did, and before I had taken the whole bottle the pain left me and the lameness also. I write this thinking it may reach the eye of some sufferer like myself. David Buxton, the force behind Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure, was an Abbot businessman and politician. Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure Co. operated out of David Buxton’s Abbot store. The first floor sign on the front of the store read

new, full Housekeeping Cabins on Long Pond.

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Land • Camps Residential • Commercial 560 Main Street ~ PO Box 427 Jackman, Maine 04945

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— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

marketing his product, however. He boosted sales of Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure by direct distribution to drug and general stores using his wagon. There wasn’t anything at all out of the ordinary in his use of the wagon, though. In fact, it was a tried and true marketing approach. There was a clear hierarchy among patent medicine salesmen. At the very top was the traveling medicine show. In the 1870s there were several hundred in the United States. The most successful example would be the Kickapoo Indian Medicine Show. The next level were the “high pitch” salesmen who traveled around giving their spiel from the back of their medicine wagons. This was, of course, the model David Buxton took as his own. At the bottom of the barrel was the “low pitch” salesman who carried his little bottles of medicine around in a suitcase or carpetbag and set up on a street corner. When a “high pitch” salesman showed up with his medicine

wagon, “low pitch” salesmen faded into the background. David Buxton was a “high pitch” salesman. This is clear from the advertising that his wagon and horses flaunted. There are suggestions that David Buxton had visions of a national market. Just how far he got in reaching this goal is a matter of conjecture. That he did have customers beyond the boundaries of Maine is a possibility, though. In 1915 he was placing advertisements with a testimonial from C. H. Thomas, a satisfied customer of Albany, New York. That advertisement read: It gives me pleasure to send you this unsolicited testimonial regarding Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure. For years I have been a great sufferer from Articular Rheumatism, to such an extent that for almost one year I was unable to walk. I was treated by many doctors and took the so called “Cures” at Carlsbad and Mt. Clemmons but without results. Finally in despair I was persuaded to try Buxton’s Rheumatic Cure. I got relief at once and within two

wE GOt StuFF

Jackman Auto Parts

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207-668-5151

598 MAIn St. • JAckMAn, ME

Discover Maine

months could walk as good as ever. I am glad to give you this information in the hope it may reach the eyes of some unfortunate suffering from that awful affliction called Rheumatism. I have included the entire above testimonial here for a reason. If one compares it with the earlier example from the late 1890s, one sees striking similarities, especially in the closing words. Is the testimony of C. H. Thomas faked? There would seem that possibility. The patent medicine market dried up in the United States in the early twentieth century with the advent of pure food and drug laws. Was the above advertisement one of the last efforts of David Buxton to market his “miracle?” Perhaps. He went on to other affairs, including managing the Abbot Hotel, shortly after this. He died in 1941. As for his wagon, it can be seen at the Shelburne Museum in Shelburne, Vermont. Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

Jay’s

TOWiNg

Quality Automotive Products Great Customer Service Tim Daigle, Store Manager

207-668-5351 414 Main St., Jackman, ME

Mb0^N_[ QbMbHHHbMb: ` ] b9 aY_Oa\P Mb3] aXb0_\a] bMb34; ` UYb7\^O_Xa\ MbB ab<UPbH[ Pb2aT_WYa]

on CAll 24 houRS/7 DAYS A WeeK Serving Dover to Golden Road

207-279-0873 207-280-1876 Owner - Jay

Jackma n Hote l L oung e

The

“Spin the wheel & catch a deal...” A relaxing way to spend your day

Jean Paul Carrier

427 Main St., Jackman, ME

lOggINg CONTRACTOR

www.jackmanhotel.net

Po Box 489 • JACKMAN, ME 04945

207-668-9252

jackmanhotel@myfairpoint.net

207-668-4457 Email: j6carrier@myfairpoint.net

Discover Maine 58

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

his story is about woods. On the other side of the Clarence Joel Dunlap. woods was the Carrabasset He was born in FarmRiver. ington, Maine on April 25, The house itself had a base1888. Fresh from Bowdoin ment and two stories of living College in Brunswick in the space. The first floor housed a early 1900s, he went to Kinglarge working kitchen with a field as a teacher. wood stove and doors leading to Kingfield was, and still is, a the porch, barn, dining room, small town — present populaand main house entry. The tion is 850 — located about 75 kitchen also had a wall opening miles north of the state capital, to the dining room to allow the Augusta. It was a lumber town passing of food and dishes from in those days, but is now best Rural medicine of days gone by one to the other. known as a springboard to the The dining room had a bedby Clarence W. Bennett very popular ski resort at Sugroom entrance on one side, and arloaf Mountain. larger access to what would norAt that time, an elderly docmally be the living room. The tor lived in Kingfield who was ready to retire. His problem doctor used that as his office, where he saw patients and their was if he retired, there would be no replacement to cover a families. The second floor had three bedrooms, a bathroom large geographic region running to the Canadian border. That with tub, and an operating room. As an aside, diagonally doctor had a comfortable house with a large attached barn across the road was the Stanley house. The Stanley twin brothand stable, typical of that era in New England. The house had ers were best known for inventing the Stanley Steamer. A mua wrap-around screened porch with comfortable outdoor seum is dedicated to the Stanleys in Kingfield. They actually seating. There was a cleared field behind the barn running to did much more.

Country Doctor

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Pleasant Street Inn

Moosehead Lake, Greenville, Maine Full breakfast and afternoon snack served daily Located within the village Our goal is to make your stay in Greenville special ♦ Open year round ♦ Where the great outdoors meets the great indoors

207-695-3400 www.pleasantstreetinn.com

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

1954 photo of Doctor Dunlap, Dena Dunlap and Clarence Bennett

Jordan lumber Co. your Local Source for: Lumber & Building Materials roofing Materials & Masonry Products Honda generators & Power equipment Husqvarna Chainsaws & Mowers Monitor & rinnai Heaters excavation & Site Work

Free Estimates On-site Sales Assistance Free Delivery Service

Toll Free 1-800-750-2231

207-265-2231 www.jordanlumber.com 354 Main Street • Kingfield, Maine

Discover Maine

But I digress. Back to my story. The old doctor suggested that Dunlap, the young teacher, who had soon become recognized for many qualities, go to medical school and come back as his replacement. He offered the house, equipment, and his practice. Since this presentation is entitled “Country Doctor,” you can guess what happened next. The young man’s wife accompanied him to Boston University, where they both studied — he to be a physician and she, a registered nurse. In the mid-1920s the two of them returned to Kingfield, moved into the house and practiced medicine as a team. Dr. Dunlap was a rare individual. He was tall — about six-foot-six, not heavy, not light, not handsome, highly intelligent, and old-school all the way. He did not go into medicine to make money. In fact, he resented those who did. He would charge $1.00 for an office visit and $2.00 for a house call. But it really didn’t matter. He often accepted vegetables, etc., in lieu of payment. In the upper part of the barn, he had the

NaPa

of Greenville

(Continued on page 60)

Flagstaff Area Business Association

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Convenient Hours:

PO Box 134 • Eustis, ME 04936

Monday thru Friday: 7 a.m. - 5 p.m. Saturday: 7 a.m. - 12 Noon

26 Moosehead Lake Road Greenville, Maine ~ 695-3585

207-670-0808

eustismaine@yahoo.com

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• Brick Oven Pizza • Burgers • Hot/Cold Sandwiches • House-Smoked BBQ • Beer and Wine Served 393 Pritham Avenue Greenville Junction

Discover Maine 60

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 59)

featured in the Farmington, Maine, newspaper with an article calling him the “Bird Man.” Seems he put an old Christmas tree beside the barn near the rear of the porch to feed the birds. Of course, squirrels created the usual problems. He built a chicken wire cage around it with an opening so that only the birds could go in and out. The article included a picture of the doctor in his suit and dress hat with many birds on his hat brim, shoulders, sleeves, and pockets. There was also the abandoned wild cat he spent months luring into the barn until finally it became a one-man cat, and many other similar stories were told. An example of the extraordinary experiences a country doctor could have in those days would be the time when a woodsman came to the house during winter. He said his partner was “cut-up in the woods.” Would the doctor come? Of course. They hitched a horse and buggy and went into the woods as far as

makings of a pharmacy where he developed and dispensed some medications. In fact, he pioneered some medications for major pharmaceutical companies. Three or four times a year, Doctor Dunlap would drive to Boston to update himself and supplement his studying. Apparently, he was well-known and highly regarded as an innovator and diagnostician, because Dr. Leahy of the famed Leahy Clinic would greet him personally and take him on a tour. Throughout those tours, Dr. Leahy would try to talk Dunlap into taking a practice in the greater Boston area. But his loyalties remained true to his practice in Kingfield. Dr. Dunlap usually wore a suit and dress hat, drove a Dodge sedan, read the daily Boston Herald, and was an avid fan of the Boston Celtics and Red Sox teams. He cared about all living things. That manifested itself in many ways, but I will cite one example. He was once

The

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they could. They tied the horse to a tree and snow-shoed to the injured woodsman. The doctor patched the woodsman up, snow-shoed back to the horse-rig, and headed home. The story has the doctor falling asleep near the house, but the horse continued into the barn. The doctor’s wife then took care of them both. How do I know all this, you ask? A little over 82 years ago Doctor Dunlap, assisted by his wife/nurse, delivered me on the second floor of that house in Kingfield. That very able wife/nurse was my aunt, Dena Lovina (Bearce) Dunlap. Dena was born in Lakeville, Maine on August 4, 1895. She was one of 13 children in a family living on a farm on the upper part of Almanac Mountain — 1,052 feet high, in the Grand Lakes region of eastern Maine. I could go on at length about the exploits of the son who became head of the test division for the U. S. Air Force as a civilian employee.

975 Arnold Trail (Rte. 27) Eustis (207) 246-4221 or (207) 491-9989

groceries • bakery & deli 363 Main street, Kingfield

265-2202 morton & Furbish

Real Estate & Rental Agency “The Region’s Oldest & Largest Agency” Serving the Rangeley Area Since 1899

Waterfront, Mountain view, & village Homes Also Commercial Properties For Sale & Rent

real estate: 207-864-5777 www.morton-furbish.com

rentals: 1-888-218-4882 www.rangeleyrentals.com 2478 Main Street, Rangeley, Maine 04970

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

Or I could go into the doctor’s dowser days when he located farmers’ well sites. Or his many years on the school committee while his wife tutored high school students preparing for speech competitions. And the many honors and recognitions bestowed upon the two of them by a very grateful citizenry. I slept in the front bedroom of that Kingfield house many times. The Doc was a remarkable man who lived to be 94, and he enjoyed a long and productive life. The last time I visited him in a nursing home in Farmington, he came out of the bathroom slightly disoriented. I asked if he needed help. I do not remember his exact words, but they involved helping others. I’m sure you could write just as good an ending for what he might have said as I can.

Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

Rangeley Equipment Repair Custom Design & Fabrication

“Legendary Fountaine Gates”

Proprietor: Al Fountaine

(207) 864-5618 P.O. Box 152, Rangeley, Maine 04970

nOrTH CaMps A private world on Rangeley Lake

~ Housekeeping Cottages ~ Screened Porches Fish Trout & Salmon Hunt Birds, Big & Small Game Boats, Motors & Canoes To Rent Guide Service Available Your hosts: Fran & Sonny Gibson

Call: (207) 864-2247 P.O. box 341 • Oquossoc, Maine 04964

www.northcamps.com

Early view of Main Street in Kingfield. Item #101165 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

Discover Maine 62

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

The Great Rangeley Lakes Of Maine In Days Of Yore A brief history of founding families by Matthew Jude Barker

or more than 150 years the beautiful Rangeley Lakes region of western Maine has been visited by sportsmen and tourists alike. Settlers arrived in 1815. And as early as the 1840s wealthy men from Boston, New York, and Providence came to the Mooselookmeguntic and Rangeley Lakes region armed with fishing rods. Since the 1870s, sportsmen’s guides have been compiled and sold to these same folks. In 1796 James Rangeley, Sr., of Philadelphia, and several business partners from Massachusetts purchased vast tracts of land in the Rangeley area, and settlers followed in the early 19th century. Although many believed that the area was first settled by Squire James

Rangeley, Jr. in 1825, J. Sherman Hoar maintained that his ancestor Luther Hoar actually came from Concord, Massachusetts to the area in the summer of 1815, along with a wife and eight children (see Pioneer Days of Rangeley, Maine, J. Sherman Hoar, Rangeley, 1949). Luther Hoar had scouted the area for a possible home site the previous fall, and had made a deep pit in the ground to store potatoes. The family arrived that summer, with a baby girl named Eunice in tow, and Luther built a campfire and “prepared for the first of many nights in the open. A bitter disappointment awaited these hungry, tired pioneers. When Deacon Hoar went to the pit, he found it empty. The potatoes were gone! During the winter, the Indians had dis-

covered them and had fared sumptuously on the first fruits of Luther Hoar’s industry,” as their descendant wrote (Hoar, p. 8). In July 1816 fourteen-year old Joseph Hoar walked to the nearest town, Madrid, and fetched a mid-wife for his mother, expecting a baby once again. He came back with an older woman known in Rangeley folklore as “Old Mis’ Dill.” The old midwife “brought forth the first white child of the future township — Lucinda Hoar.” And it was “Old Mis’ Dill” who was the first to be buried in the new settlement, moving there with her husband the following year. Luther Hoar “was a powerful man,” recalled his grandson Freeman Tibbetts. “Grandfather Hoar used to put a bushel

Mingo Springs Golf Course

nOrtHWOOd BuildErS

Sandy River Cash Fuel

Rangeley, Maine 864-5021

www.mingosprings.com

W ilBer heatinG & PluMBinG Madrid, Maine 04966

Service, repair, or replacement of Radiant boilers, Monitors, & hot air systems over 25 years experience • Fully insured 24 hour eMerGency serVice

John Wilber

207-639-2251

— Jeff Murphy — • residential & commercial • A Full service Construction Company ~ Free Estimates • Fully Insured ~

684-3354 P.o. Box 18, 446 norton Hill road Strong, Maine 04983

Reasonable Prices Prompt Service SeRvING: Strong, Phillips, Salem, New Customers New vineyard, Kingfield, Welcome Freeman and Avon David Adams of Strong

684-2990

We are now using Heating Oil Plus to prevent contamination, instability and degradation in fuel tanks

EDMuNDS MARKET

Full Line of Grocery Items Full Deli • Fresh Meats • Seafood Beer • Soda • Agency Liquor Store 24/7 Sunoco Fuel • ATM Available Small Town Service Low Prices & Best Selection 639-3721 • Route 4, Phillips

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

of corn on his back and walk to Strong. It was twelve miles to Madrid; from Madrid to Phillips was six miles, and from Phillips to Strong was six miles more, and he walked there and back in three days and carried a bushel of corn besides.” Luther did not forget his relatives back in Massachusetts, and used to ride a horse almost every year to visit them. Tibbetts remembered the last time he journeyed there: “He come home and rode into the barn. His wife she come out to see him. ‘How do you feel?’ says she. He was a-hanging’ up his saddle when he answered her. ‘Fine,’ says he, and with that he dropped at her feet — stone dead” (Hoar, p. 10). Eventually other pioneers came to settle at Rangeley, including families named Rowe, Thomas, Kimball, and Quimby. In 1825 Squire James Rangeley, Jr., a member of an old Yorkshire, England family, arrived on the scene from England and built a home that was nothing short of a mansion for its place and

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time. It was made of plastering, clapboards and solid brick, contained a giant kitchen with a brick oven, and had four rooms, two on each floor, each with an old fashioned brick fireplace. It stood in town for all to marvel at for at least 50 years before what was left of it (after years of decay and dismantling) burned to the ground in the great Rangeley fire of August 1876. Squire Rangeley, who one old-timer described as “He was an Englishman — he was funny,” employed many of the men in town to build his home and then upkeep his property. He also hired many of the girls in the area as domestic maids. Rangeley paid the men $12 a month, which was not too shabby for the time, and started out his “hired girls” at 50 cents a week before paying them $1.50 after a year’s time. The squire had great plans for developing the area, but after a sawmill and gristmill were built, and before a tenmile road had been finished, he realized

Discover Maine

the extreme difficulties of transportation to the outside world. After the death of his 19-year-old daughter Sarah on Christmas Day 1827, Rangeley finally decided to pack up his family and move on. By 1841 they were residing in Portland. The squire eventually sold the township of Rangeley and they moved to Virginia, where his family also owned land. In Virginia he owned about 150 slaves and became a colonel in the Confederate Army. The Rangeleys never returned to merry ol’ England and their descendants still resided in Henry County, Virginia as late as the 1950s. Another family that had a deep impact on the region was the Barretts. Thomas and Charles Barrett arrived here in the early 1880s and established a boatbuilding concern. They built and repaired rowboats, and Tom Barrett built the first “Rangeley boat,” a narrow and low open boat that was specifically designed to maneuver the famous Rangeley Lakes. (Continued on page 64)

Ellis Pond Variety & Cabins Fishing Bait & gear ~ gasoline ~ groceries • Meats • Cold Beer wine & soda • pizza Breakfast served Daily lobster subs • hot & Cold sandwiches Accessible to Atv trails ~ Open 7 Days from 6am to 9pm ~

545-2713 Route 120 west

Roxbury

“Serving Contractors & Homeowners For 21 Years”

Locally Produced Meats Cut to Order Ribeyes Pizza • Calzones • Wraps Hot & Cold Sandwiches Full Deli • Daily Specials ~ Gift Certificates ~ Eat in or take out for breakfast, lunch & dinner

207-562-7176 207-562-7185

On & Off Road Diesel • Kerosene All Grades of Gasoline Open 7 Days a Week

Route 2, PO Box 585 Dixfield, Maine 04224

Mon.-Fri. 5am-8pm • Sat. 6am-8pm • Sun. 7am-8pm

26 South Main St. • Strong Tel. 684-3615

Discover Maine 64

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 63)

“Rangeley boat” and “Barrett” became synonymous with generations of Rangeley fishermen. The firm was still going strong as late as the 1940s. The old Barrett shop still stands in the town on the shore of Rangeley Lake. According to Stephen A. Cole, the author of The Rangeley and its Region, the Famous Boat and Lakes of Western Maine, the Barretts arrived on the scene at the most opportune time. “During the 1880s the sportsmen and tourist trade there burgeoned, grand hotels were built, new sporting camps were established, modes of transportation were increased and updated, and publications wrote frequently of the Rangeley Lakes as a holiday destination.” 

The Lake House, Rangeley. Item #109969 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

ELLIS VARIETy

AuthoRizeD sAles AND seRviCe FoR

ColDest BeveRAges iN towN

service on most makes of saws, lawn & garden equipment

groceries • sandwiches • pizza self-service gas station Convenient to its trail inside Dining Area • tagging station

126 weld Road • Dixfield

Simply Sweet! The Gluten-Free Market & Bakery

Call for Special Orders Mike Hase, owner

4:00 - 9:00 Mon - Thurs 4:00 - 10:00 Fri & Sat • 5:00 - 9:00 Sun

562-8284

Welcome to

562-4930

business location: 244 Tower Road 2 miles off Worthley Pond in East Peru Hours: Mon. Tue. Wed. & Fri. 7am-5pm Sat. 6:30am-noon • Closed Thurs. & Sun. Closed noon-1pm daily for lunch

E & L Logging & Excavation

Serving you for over 20 years

562-9024 Lance White, owner 198 Luc Morin Road • Dixfield, Maine 04224

Open Wednesday - Saturday, 10-6

207-369-9196

297 River Road/U.S. Rt. 2 • Mexico, ME US Route 2

www.simply-sweet.me

naples Packing Co., Inc. Family Owned & Operated Since 1946

Beef • pork • provisions Frozen Foods • produce 364-3725 Open Mon.-Sat.

river road • Mexico

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

The Proud Skiing Tradition Of Rumford Skiing began in the early 1900s by James Nalley

n a cold Sunday evening in the early winter of 1924, a group of approximately 25 men gathered at the Municipal Police Courtroom in the town of Rumford, Maine. For the next several hours, this group discussed, argued, and finalized a way to officially show their enthusiasm toward winter sports and expand the activities in the area. It was a productive end to a three-month period where they had not only formed themselves as the Chisholm Ski Club, but created the first annual “Winter Carnival” that would eventually help transform Rumford into one of the top ski centers in the country. As stated in the records of the Chisholm Ski Club from the 1920s, “It

is this loyal body of members that makes the Chisholm Ski Club a leader among the clubs of the Eastern United States Association… (But) it requires the entire support of the whole community (with major funding from the Oxford Paper Company) to put it over as it should be put over. We must maintain the reputation that we already have been doing things and doing them right.” By 1929, just five years after the club’s founding, the town of Rumford had served as the site of several Maine cross country and Nordic combined championships, as well as the location of the Eastern Amateur United States Ski Association. The hard work and years of devotion had finally paid off. Despite the formation of the club and

Sales & Service

Portable Welding

Refrigerators • Ranges • Washers • Dryers Freezers • Dishwashers • Microwaves Mon-Fri 8AM - 5PM Sat 9AM - Noon, or by appointment

(Continued on page 66)

rdeau’s BoBackhoe &

whirlpool kitchenaid maytag • amana e

on ell D ob W

it accolades in 1929, the skiing tradition in Rumford actually began more than 20 years earlier. According to Paul Jones in his article “Spruce Street Tow” for the “New England Lost Ski Areas Project (NELSAP),” the first ski area in the town of Rumford was actually “located along Spruce Street from the Aker’s Lumber Company (next to what was Puiia’s Hardware) to Breau’s Dairy (next to what is now Community Energy).” Small ski jumps were built on both sides of Spruce Street and a ski slope was created in a former “cow field in back of the dairy bordered by Holyoke Avenue and Spruce Street/Swain Road.” But as innovative as these locations were, the area needed more.

Small Backhoe Bush Hog rototilling

364-7062 Family owned & operated for over 50 years

welding Stainless • tig 185 Highland terrace • mexico, mE 04257

eleCtrIC 13 Main Street, Mexico

Experience Small Town Maine Gateway to the Western Mountains

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Call or visit us today! Residential, Commercial, Vacation Property

Town of Mexico

207-369-0100

134 Main Street, Mexico, Maine 04257

152 River Road (Route 2) Mexico, Maine 04257

Web: www.mexicomaine.net

(207) 364-7971

www.riversiderealty.org

Discover Maine 66

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 65)

ing to skiing on its newly expanded slope with a 200-foot vertical and a Tbar ski lift that covered the entire slope’s

After the Chisholm Ski Club was formed in 1924, things changed dramatically. With support from local businesses, a natural-hill ski jump and toboggan run was constructed along with a skating rink complete with lights and sound equipment. The rink covered an area of a quarter acre behind the Chevrolet Garage (next to the Rumford Water District building). In 1926 the club had become noticed after construction of a tower was completed that increased the ski jump to a 60-meter jump that was known as the highest jumping hill east of the Mississippi River. This recognition would only last six years, when Lake Placid built an even higher hill for its Olympic Games in 1932. But Rumford fared well from the exposure and the area continued to be used not only for recreation, but for local competitions that ranged from skating and toboggan-

“Quality Healthcare Close to Home” Elsemore Dixfield Family Medicine 562-4226 River Valley Internal Medicine 364-7831 Rumford Surgical Associates 369-1106 Swift River Family Medicine 369-0146

1952 Olympic team

length of 1,200 feet. As stated by Jones, “The distance from the top of the steep slope to the base of the ski area was enough to create challenging downhill and slalom courses as well as gentle slopes for recreational skiing. The ski

area was (also) conveniently located for the children in town to go to during the week on foot or skis and for family outings on the weekends… the slope was also lighted to provide evening skiing.” But like many other areas in the country, the onset of World War II had greatly affected recreational activities and Rumford’s ski slope was no exception. With fuel and power being rationed for the war effort, the lift and lights of the slope were forced to cease operation and the site never fully recovered. After the war the skating rink was discontinued, and according to Jones, “The jumping tower had deteriorated and collapsed in a February snow storm.” Only the ski slope was partially reactivated and continued until 1950, when “Scotty’s Mountain” had taken over as the primary ski location on the other side of town. Fortunately, the cross-country ski trails remained and the venue was the site of both the 1950 FIS

FROST MOTOR SUPPLY, INC. Ken Briggette & Son, Owners

Snowmobile & ATV Parts & Accessories Automotive Parts • Accessories Oils • Lubricants

364-4563 202 Prospect Ave. Rumford, ME (Bottom of Falls Hill) FREE Wiper Blade Installation With Purchase of Wiper Blades

jake’s garage

Hours: Mon - Sat 5am - 9:30pm Sun. 7am - 7pm

Propane Refill Station & Full Service Gas Every Day 7am - 7pm 876 route 2, rumford, Me 04276 207-364-8984 owners: Judy & Kenny gill

River Valley Grill

“Take it to Jake!”

Jake & tina pellerin - owners Serving the River Valley for more than 75 years

420 Franklin Street Rumford, Maine 369-1000

auto repairs exhaust specialist pipe bending

207-369-0791 529 Prospect Ave. • Rumford, Maine

Breakfast Served all day ! Every day

• daily Specials • Home Cooked Foods • Fresh Made desserts

Mon. - Fri. 6am-7pm, Sat. 8am-1pm Closed Sunday. your hosts: Bob & Kathy Knowles 39 Exchange St., Rumford • 369-0810

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

World Championship cross-country races and the 1952 Olympic cross country tryouts, where two local skiers (Chummy Broomhall and Bob Pidacks) made the Olympic team and trained on the trails prior to sailing to Oslo in 1952. Today, no evidence remains of any ski or skating activities along Spruce Street — just the memories. From a period from 1950 to 1960, Scotty’s Mountain thrived as the region’s popular ski area. According to Malcolm White in the article “Scotties,” also for NELSAP, “This was a 1,300-foot, doglegged rope tow about a mile out of town along the Swift River. There were also three ski jumps located there: the so-called “Grammar School,” the “High School,” and the “Suicide,” which was a 55-meter jump. The latter jump was the site of the annual Winter Carnival where, in addition to the competition, they had a night jumping show through a hoop of fire on to a landing lit by rail-

road flares.” It closed in 1960 after the creation of the Black Mountain Ski area, which still exists today. Dave Hathaway in the same article states, “Scotty’s ski hill is located adjacent to the Mountain Valley High School on Hancock Street. It can be accessed through the woods from the northwest corner of the school… it’s about a 200-foot walk from the high school’s parking lot to the edge of the ski trail.” Today, Black Mountain of Maine is a popular, full-service ski resort that offers both day and night skiing as well as snowboarding down its 1,150-foot vertical drop and 20 trails served by two chairlifts. The cross-country trails were developed by Chummy Broomhall, the two-time Olympian, who also designed the Olympic cross-country trails at Lake Placid and Squaw Valley. Black Mountain of Maine continues to host an impressive list of competitions that include the NCAA Cross-Country Skiing

robert & dianne chase

FAX (207) 369-0545

Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

Trading posT

Wood • Pellet • Stoves Fireplaces • Fireplace Inserts Sales, Installation and Service

Phone (207) 369-9900

Championships, several prominent national championships, and, most recently, the 2011 U.S. Cross-Country Championship. Proudly based at the same mountain is the Chisholm Ski Club, which continues to preserve this rich ski tradition that dates back to the early 1900s when skiers once met on a cow field behind the town’s dairy.

Bear River

chase chimney & stove services

485 Prospect Ave. Rt. 2 Top of Falls Hill Rumford, Me 04276

Discover Maine

Email: jnicolsbros@yahoo.com Jim Nicols Bill Nicols

29 Industrial Park Road Rumford, Maine

Local Farm Eggs Healthy Treats Coﬀee, Beer & Wine Sandwiches & Ice Cream Groceries, Snacks & Candy

gaS - food - beer

Maps Fishing & Hunting Licenses/Gear Flies & Fly Fishing Equipment Rec. Vehicle Registrations Game Inspection Station

Open Daily ... Always Worth the Trip! monday - Saturday 6am - 8pm ... SundayS 8am - 6pm

Newry CorNer - route 2 & 26 - 824-bear

Pleasant River Motel “Stay with us while you experience the wonders of western Maine”

Easy Access to Everything Only Minutes to Sunday River & Mt. Abram Coin Laundry • Cable TV • Phone • Private Tub Showers

207-836-3575 • 1-800-847-7786 www.pleasantrivermotel.net 764 W. Bethel Road, Route 2 West • West Bethel, Maine 04286

Discover Maine 68

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Early view of Main Street in Bethel. Item #104228 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org Across from Rite Aid

Route 2, Bethel 824-3637 Take-Out or Dine In

6 Page Menu Homemade Lasagna • Salads, Subs, and More! & Dinners

A Full Service Family Restaurant Serving Wine, Beer & Spirits

Now Offering Gluten-Free Dough & Beer

MAN’S FREE

rOOSTEr’S rOadHOuSE

“No job too small, when it comes to dirt work, we dig it all”

Open for Lunch and Dinner Daily at 11:30!

CONSTRuCTION

▸ Seasoned Firewood & Logging ▸ Plowing ▸ Stonework (207) 824-0836 • (207) 557-8246 digdirtfree@gmail.com

DaviS

“Spacious Suites”

CoNCREtE

Lobsters * Seafood * Steaks * Pasta * Pizza Pub Fare * Full Bar * TV’s Cold Draft Beers * 1/2 lb. Burgers

Fun, CaSuaL, aFFOrdaBLE... OnLY aT rOOSTEr’S!! 159 Mayville Road (Route 2) • 824-0309

www.roostersroadhouse.com

kelley’s auto parts, inc. dIStRIButoRS oF:

Located on route 2 Just Minutes Away From Sunday river

Concrete Foundations Floors - Slabs Free Estimates - Fully Insured

automotive Parts & accessories Industrial Supplies Marine Products

~ Indoor Pool ~

Call todd davis

CoMPLete MaChIne ShoP SeRvICe

(207) 824-2808 888-224-8413

www.riverviewresort.com 357 Mayville Road, Bethel, Maine

207-357-3812 8 Farm Hill Rd. • Bethel, ME 04217 Email: ttdavis10@gmail.com

10 Mechanic St. • Bethel, ME 04217

207-824-2102

123 Glen Ave. • Berlin, NH 03570

603-752-4405

NAPA Know How

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

The Gaeltacht Of Greenwood immigrants from County galway settled here

by matthew Jude barker

or being a small state, at least in population, Maine has a long history of diverse ethnic enclaves comparable to much larger states. The Wabanaki Native Americans resided here for some seven thousand years before Europeans set foot. Since the 1600s, many different waves of peoples have made the Pine Tree State home, including English, Irish, Scottish, Welsh, French, German, African, Portuguese, Spanish, Swedish, Finnish, Norwegian, Jewish, Italian, Polish, Chinese, Armenian, Greek, Syrian, Russian, and many other small

Discover Maine

groups. Today we continue to see various ethnic groups such as the Somalis and Sudanese, as well as many different strains of Latinos and Slavic peoples immigrate to the state. One of the most intriguing ethnic communities outside of the major cities was the Irish settlement in Greenwood, Oxford County, outside Bethel, where Irish emigrants, especially from the Irish Gaelic speaking areas of the County Galway, began to settle during the time of An Gorta Mor (the Great Hunger in Irish), the great Irish potato famine of 1845-51. In 1850, 170 Irish families and individuals were residing in Greenwood, according to the 1850 Federal Census. One of these families was the Thomas and Bridget Lydon Flaherty family from Galway. According to the Oxford Democrat of December 30, 1884, old Tom Flaherty “came from Ireland with a small family nearly forty years ago, went to work on the G. T. R. (Grand Trunk Railroad) at Mechanic Falls and followed it as far as Gorham (NH), when he left it and bought a farm in this neighborhood, on to which he moved his family. The farm was considered a poor one hardly worth the name, as several Yankees had been on it and got starved out. When Mr. F. commenced on it he had no team, and instead of hiring one to do his ploughing, he dug the ground with a spade, burned the break roots, and used the ashes for manure. He soon began to prosper as he deserved to until his children (Continued on page 70)

BReakFaSt

SaLadS BuRgeRS

Dine In or Take Out

207-739-2575 183 Park Street, South Paris, ME

hand-Cut FRIeS

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Mon.-Fri. 5am-8pm • Sat. 6am-8pm• Sun. 7am-7pm

Discover Maine 70

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 69)

Mary Lane Joyce, Michael and Margaret Quirk, James B. and Sarah Curran, Michael and Mary Pendergrast, Michael and Mary Flaherty Deegan, Bartley and Delia Lydon, John and Anne Lydon, Thomas Smith, Thomas Kennaugh, Richard Hadakin, and William Deardon. Many of these families were from the Aran Islands off the coast of Galway and almost all of them spoke Irish Gaelic and continued to speak it well into the 20th Century; thus it was a virtual Gaeltacht, or Irish-speaking location. In Ireland today, the Gaeltacht is the collective name of Irish-speaking districts in Counties Galway, Kerry, Cork, and Donegal. These Irish created a succinct Gaelic community in a valley below Mount Abram and Long Mountain, and along Kendall Brook. A few Yankee families resided among them. According to an article in the Oxford County Advertiser (March 16, 1906), “Some of the incidents of early life in the colony were

numbered ten and he erected a good set of buildings.” Patrick Harrington was another early Irish settler who remained in Greenwood and made a go of it. “According to family records, he was working for the railroad in 1860 and lived in Bethel with his wife Mary and their infant son Michael. He was paid a $1.00 a day. In 1863 the railroad suddenly cut the men’s wages to $.90 a day. He left the railroad, took his savings in gold, and bought the Josiah Bartlett farm up the hill from Thomas Flaherty…Within the next few years other Irish families came, probably under much the same circumstances.” Among the other Irish who settled in Greenwood, in what would become known as “Little Ireland,” and “the Irish Neighborhood,” included the families of John and Abby Concannon Gill, Patrick and Kate Lydon Connelly, Patrick and Julia Lydon, Richard and

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strenuous enough to satisfy the most daring spirits. Bears were wont to rob the cattle pens, deer grazed in the orchards and storms of frightful intensity buried for days together this little band of settlers on the rugged mountain sides. Thomas Flaherty’s wife was on one occasion attacked by a gigantic black snake while drawing water at a spring. The serpent inflicted serious injury on her and was killed only after a hard tussle. At another time Flaherty himself had a set-to with a big grizzly, which all but cost him his life.” An 1871 nor’easter buried the little group alive for almost a week. One can only wonder what these Galwegians thought of bears, snakes, and blizzards! They were definitely not in Galway anymore! Dr. Raymond Tibbetts often took care of the Irish families, and his daughter recalled many years later that her father “relished their wit,” and “best of all appreciated the loyalty and tenacity of the Irish. They stuck with their friends and

boLsTer’s miLLs generaL sTore “Downtown Bolster’s Mills”

Come in and sit down for hot coffee, rednecks, and good company. ~ Home of the Thelma & louise ~ groceries • Pizza • Deli • Hot Coffee breakfast Served All Day • Daily Specials • beverages • Scratch Tickets

Many thanks from Dave & Jo-Ann Mon-fri 5:30am-7pm; sat & sun 7am-7pm 4 Big Hill Road, otisfield, Maine • 743-2422

The Poland Corporation Excavation Contractor Sand - Gravel Firewood - Hay

207-674-2771 cell 592-5559 • cell 462-6000 West Paris, Maine

thepolandcorporation.com

Weddings • Showers • Anniversaries Group Meetings Catering • Bartending • Music • Flowers 168 Greenwood Mt. Rd. • Hebron, Maine

(207) 966-2233 • 877-978-4466 www.greenwoodmtninn.com

Paris Appraisal Services Jonathan Beal

State Licensed & Certified Real Estate Appraisers Residential • land • Condominium Serving all of Oxford, Androscoggin & Northern Cumberland counties.

Phone 207-743-9319

Email parisapp@megalink.net 8 High Street, PO Box 122, South Paris, ME 04281 www.parisappraisalsvcs.com

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

were proud of their heritage.” Margaret Joy Tibbetts remembered the day her father “operated on old Bartley Lydon for a strangulated hernia. He was already ninety and the operation was hazardous but my father had no choice. The patient lay on the kitchen table, my father operated, mother gave the anesthetic and young Bernard Harrington held the lantern. The following day old Bartley sat up in bed and called for his pants and his pipe. He lived several more years. After the operation when mother went out to catch her breath and walked down the road from the farmhouse, the partridges flew up on either side as thick as robins.” The Irish settlers were successful farmers in this wilderness area; as one reporter noted, they “are a thrifty set, and can outdo the Yankees every time raising potatoes.” By 1906, Michael Deegan “had seven fine children and 200 acres of the best land under fine cultivation as any in the state.” Patrick Harrington’s son Michael, a town

selectman, was “introducing with considerable success, the Irish “intensive” method of farming into the Yankee townships all about Greenwood.” The first settlers “made a specialty of potatoes, raising them intensively by putting a decayed fish or a rotten twig into each hill for fertilizer, in Irish fashion.” As the 1906 reporter declared, “Thus have these ‘hustling’ Irishmen made the wilderness blossom into some of the best farms in Maine.” A few days before St. Patrick’s Day 1906, a press correspondent for the Oxford County Advertiser related the history of the community thusly: “Sixty years ago or more, so the old men of the community tell, when the Grand Trunk road was being built from Portland to Gorham (NH), some long forgotten railway strike threw a score of Irish laborers out of employment. Without money to return home, with wives and families to provide for, and with immediate necessity staring them in the

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966-3686

Discover Maine

face, these sturdy men of toil did the only sensible thing—plunged squarely into the forest, took up densely wooded tracts, exchanged the sledge hammer for the axe and attacked the primeval forest to hew out farms and homesteads for their families.” The Irish in Greenwood remained Roman Catholic and a missionary priest usually visited them each summer to minister the sacraments. An 1884 reporter was somewhat amazed that “while they claim the right to their own religion, they do not try to impose it upon others.” By 1910, the older generation had mostly died off, and the younger generations were all attending local schools, some even hiking the eight miles to attend Gould Academy in Bethel. The younger members of these families may have learned some of the Irish language from their elders, but the language eventually died out in the area. Many of the (Continued on page 72)

Colby Major 68 Ledge Hill Rd. Hebron, ME 04238

(207) 966-3428 Home (207) 212-4002 Cell Service • New Installations System upgrades 24 Hr. Emergency Service • Gas & oil Master Licensed & Insured SERvINg WESTERN MAINE

Oxford Hills & Weston FuNERAL SERvICES

Chris Weston Director 207-743-0270 • Fax: 207-743-0279 1037 Main Street • Route 26 Po Box 205 • oxford, ME 04270

www.oxfordhillsfuneralservices.com

Smedberg’s Crystal Spring Farm

Gift certificates Christmas trees & wreaths

Farm Fresh Produce Jam ~ Honey Our Own Maple Syrup Home-Baked Pies All Natural Home-Grown Beef, Pork & Lamb Organic Cheese & Milk Produce in Season “Everything in its Season” Open year-round

207-743-6723

Route 26, Oxford, ME All Natural Home-Grown Beef

Discover Maine 72

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 71)

descendants of the original settlers removed to Bethel to live and work, and many moved to Portland for work. The Greenwood Irish had many familial ties to the Irish in Portland and many of them lived with their relatives in the city. And of course, many Irish stayed in Greenwood, where some of their descendants continue to reside and continue to upkeep the little cemetery in the woods where their ancestors were buried. The “Gaeltacht of Greenwood” is just one of countless examples of a community that sprung up in the Pine Tree State, a community of immigrants that came to America for a better way of life, for themselves and their progeny. We should do well to remember these people whenever we can

Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

Early view of Main Street in Norway. Item #101984 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

StetSOn’S autO ServIce 739-2338

Continually Defining Beautiful Believable Color and Cutting Edge Haircuts.

Ice Cream & Yogurt! Fresh Vegetables in Season, Honey Wheel Cheese, Maple Syrup Pine Lawn Furniture

Fall Vegetables including pumpkin & squash Free Petting Zoo! Farm Animals

by appointment only.

John Stetson, Owner

207-739-2338

743-2886

426 Main Street, Norway, ME justcolorit@yahoo.com

ddy O’s a D

207-539-2616

Pigeon Hill • Route 26 Oxford, Maine 04270

258 Fore Street, Oxford

polly’s variety “No more crackers, Polly wants pizza!” Friendly Service

Sheep, Goats, Rabbits, Calves, Pigs, Chickens, Ducks, Turkeys & Geese

Open May - October

Over 30 years experience

Work on all Makes & Models State Inspections

Sandwiches • Subs Homemade Salads

• Breakfast served all day • Desserts are home-made Hours: Mon.-Sat. 6am-2pm • Sun. 6am-Noon

901 Main St. • Oxford, ME 04270

207-539-8100

Homemade Specials Great Pizza Slices We oﬀer a wide variety of groceries, snacks, homemade cakes & cookies Please stop by! Call ahead for faster service!

539-8254 115 King St. • Oxford, Maine

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

Early view of Main Street in Cornish. Item #100437 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

Johnny Millionaire “I Buy and Sell” We Specialize in the Unique... Something for Everyone!

i Buy & Sell Gold & Silver! Antiques • Collectibles • Art • Memorabilia Furniture • DVD’s & Vinyl Stop by and take a look

329 Main St., Norway, Maine johnnymillionaire@hotmail.com (207) 515-0866 • tues. - Sat. 11-5

oVer Flea Mark Derc et n u ECTIblES & ANTIqu COll

Always Buying

Featuring 114 Vendors

visit “the Book Nook” for oNe stop shopping! All pApeRBACks $1/ea. 30% oFF all hardcover Books 20% oFF all Books on tape 50% oFF Cookbooks

select hard Covers $2 at “the Book Nook” only

Over 55,000 Pre-read Books & Cookbooks Pre-Read Books arriving daily

Come to oxford’s only original indoor flea market! open 7 days a week, 8am-5pm year round for your shopping!

960 main street oxford, maine 539-4149 Collectibles, Coins, glassware, Sports Cards, Furniture, Beanie Babies, Advertising items, Cassettes, Jewelry, CD’s, videos, Antiques & Lots More! Inventory Reduction now in progress

20% - 50% OFF

We honor: M/C, DeBit, AtM, viSA, AMex and DiSCover Cards

kNopp ChiRopRACtiC “We Are The Hearth Professionals” sales • serviCe • installations 712 main street rt. 26, oxford monday-friday 8am-5pm saturday 8am-4pm

207-539-9930 www.buythefire.com

Dr. Barry e. knopp 39 Paris Street norway, Maine 04268 Phone (207) 743-2866 Fax: (207) 743-5942

Massage therapy

A drug-free, non-surgical health care alternative offering motion x-ray studies and computerized spinal analysis and treatment.

www.chiropractic.com • knoppchi@megalink.net

Discover Maine 74

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Norway’s Mark Hill Dunnell Educator, soldier, leader extraordinaire by Charles Francis

aving a town named after oneself is one of the highest accolades that can be paid any individual. Mark Dunnell of Buxton is one of the few individuals to whom this honor has been paid. The town of Dunnell, Minnesota is named for him. Dunnell was a long-serving Minnesota Congressman as well as a Minnesota State Superintendent of Instruction. Well before he became a resident of Minnesota, however, he amassed an enviable record in his native state as well as to his country during the Civil War. He was one of the first Maine men to be selected for Maine’s Hall of Fame. Mark Hill Dunnell (the name is sometimes mistakenly spelled Donnell) was born in Buxton on July 2, 1823. His parents were Samuel and Ashsa (Hill) Dunnell. On his mother’s side he was

oxford Hills

taxi

Ebay Trading Assistant Packing • Shipping Mailbox Rental • Fax Service Copies • Office Supplies • Much More! Go to the ebay store at Goin’ Postal

231 Main Street • Norway Tel: 744-0099/Fax: 744-0100

• Delivery • Airport Service • Long & Short Fares • 7 Day Service • 6 Seat Mini Van

743-7963 Owner: Terri Dunham

Since 1968

Discover Maine Magazine (207) 874-7720 • 1-800-753-8684

Good Friends!

• Full service dining and bar on Norway Lake • Gorgeous view for all seasons • Come by boat or sled

Are you hiding what we’re looking for ?

Share your stories with us!

Good Drink!

Good Food!

• Weekly Pickup • Container Service • Containers 2-10 yards • Rolloffs 12-30 yards

743-5417

Waterford Road, Norway

Prime Ribeye Steak • Haddock • Scallops Pasta • Salads • Burgers • Pizza • Subs • Happy hour 2-5 Weekdays • Open Mon. - Sat. 11-Close Sunday Noon - Close

Our Own Famous BBQ Pork Family Owned & Operated since 1982 Norway Lake Road, Norway

743-8434

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

descended from Nathaniel Hill, a Revolutionary War hero. Two of his Dunnell ancestors, Benjamin and Joseph, were prominent figures in the early growth of Buxton. Mark Dunnell was first and foremost a teacher. Late in his life he helped found Pillsbury Military Academy in Owatonna, Minnesota. Hill made his home in Minnesota in Owatonna. Eventually Dunnell’s house became the property of Pillsbury Academy, used for classrooms as well as a residence. Today it is preserved by the Steele County Historical Society as a tribute to him. After attending Buxton area common schools, Dunnell enrolled in Waterville College, (now Colby) graduating in 1849. His first employment upon graduating was in Norway as a teaching principal at Norway Academy. From there he went on to become principal of Hebron Academy. He was elected to the Maine House of Representatives in 1854 and the Maine State Senate in

Come See The Buffalo!

• Prime bison meat for sale • Walking tours to see and learn about the bison • Come see “Chief ” and “Little Warrior” • Gift Shop • Beautiful Views Beech Hill Farm Bison Ranch • Gift Certificates Have won National awards Open Year Round Call for Hours

Ted & Doretta Colburn Route 35, 630 Valley Road No. Waterford, ME 04267

207-583-2515

Taste of Eden VEGAN CAFÉ Monday - Thursday 11am - 7pm Sunday 11am - 2:30pm

238 Main Street, Norway, ME 04268

(207) 739-6090 Check out our interesting menu online

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1855. Dunnell served as Maine State Superintendent of Education on two separate occasions — the first time in 1855, the second from 1857 to 1860. In 1855 Dunnell was just Maine’s second State Superintendent of Education. As such, he was the public figure to point out the real and great problems facing public education in Maine. Dunnell made a point of saying that the bulk of money raised for public education, just over $333,000, was raised by local taxes, and that the state only contributed some $54,000. He went on to say that public education in Maine was dominated by “small districts, ignorant committeemen, inadequate buildings... and poorly qualified teachers.” It was Maine’s first wake-up call as to the state of public education. It also created the first movement to reform the state’s educational system. Dunnell went on to see to it that every county held a threeto five-day teachers’ convention, where prominent experts in the field of edu-

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Discover Maine

cation held lectures and seminars. Almost 1700 teachers attended the conventions which Dunnell persuaded the legislature to appropriate $2000 for. During Dunnell’s second term as State Superintendent, the State Teacher’s Convention was instituted. Today Dunnell is credited with having Maine take the first tentative steps towards a system of responsible public education. In 1855 Dunnell was admitted to the Maine Bar. He began his law practice in Portland. At that time he became active in the formation of the Maine Republican Party. At the start of the Civil War Dunnell volunteered his services for combat, and was appointed colonel of the 5th Maine, which was formed in Portland. The 5th Maine went on to establish one of the most outstanding records of any Maine regiment, capturing more enemy battle flags than any other. Dunnell was only (Continued on page 76)

Wilson Excavating, Inc. (207) 583-4632

• Downdraft Spray Booth • Color Matching • Sand Blasting • Restorations • Media Blasting For Environmentally Safe Paint Removal

583-2942

190 Deertrees Road, Harrison

P&D

Handyman & Carpentry No Job Too Small - JuST ASk! Fully Insured • Free Estimates Over 25 Years Experience PETE uGOSOLI - HARRISON, MAINE

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email: pdhandy@roadrunner.com

Complete Residential & Commercial Site Work Road building lot Clearing certified Septic System Installer For all your excavating needs. Family Business Since 1968

444 bisbee Town Road Waterford, ME 04088

Discover Maine 76

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 75)

Maine or to Mexico from his term of service there. In 1870 he was made an honorary member of the Geographical and Statistical Society of Mexico. In 1899 Colby College commemorated the service of its famous graduate with an honorary degree.

to serve a short time with the 5th, however. In September of 1861 Dunnell was named United States Consul at Vera Cruz, Mexico. As Consul, Dunnell was instrumental in intercepting a major shipment of arms from Europe to the Confederacy. Following the war Dunnell moved to Minnesota. In 1867 he was elected to the Minnesota State Legislature. From 1867 to 1870 he served as Minnesota State Superintendent of Public Instruction. At this time he initiated state teacher’s conventions along the same lines as he had done earlier in Maine. In 1867 Dunnell was elected to the first of eight terms in the United States House of Representatives. His service in Congress included one unsuccessful bid for Speaker of the House. As Chairman of the House Committee on the Census, he is credited with introducing some of the census practices which still exist to this day. Mark Dunnell never lost his ties to

www.wardcedarloghomes.com

Knapp & Sanborn Store and Post office, Bridgton. Item #102490 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

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Small Houses Cottages  Decks  Renovations  Garages  

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207-647-8058 Bridgton, Maine

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In 1969 the Steele County Historical Society of Owatonna rescued Mark Dunnell’s former Minnesota home from destruction, completely restoring it to its original Victorian charm. It is a fitting memorial to the man who did so much for Maine, Minnesota and the nation.

WFuneral atson, neal & York Home JOSePH L. WATSOn, OWneR/DiReCTOR Funerals ~ Cremations ~ Green Burials

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& York

L HOMe

207-625-3221 • Fax: 207-625-8289

Warren’s Florist Fresh Flowers For All Occasions Mon-Fri 9-5, Sat 9-4

A full-service florist serving you for 15 years

Auto & Marine Sales Open 9:30-5:00pm, Mon. - Fri.

~ Fully Insured ~

65 Harrison Rd. (Route 117), Bridgton, Maine

Waterford, me 04088

329-2602

We Serve Bridgton • Harrison • Denmark Naples • Casco • Sebago • The Waterfords

Make your holiday arrangement plans now

647-8441

39 DEPoT ST, BRIDGToN • TOLL FREE 1-800-834-8407

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Discover Maine

The Time Dad Knocked The Train Off The Rails Quite a stunt with a Model-A by Franklin Irish s business fell off, the steam train got too expensive to use for the mail run. So the heads got together with their machinists and came up with a Chevy ½-ton and a little boxcar. Of course, it had to be narrowed up to two feet and the body likewise. And the freight car was also built on smaller measurements. Well, they still had the mail contract to Bridgton, South Bridgton, Hillside and Sandy Creek. Of course, in the summer they couldn’t handle the mail in that rig, but ten months of the year they could. My brother had the mail contract to Hillside, and Dad used to go for him once in a while. Dad got a 1914 Model-T which he really never learned to drive, and later a Model-A which he couldn’t really drive, either. You would have to

know Dad to get anything out of the story. He never could figure out why the car kept moving when he took his foot off the clutch. The engineer sometimes stopped on the road crossing if he only had one mailbag. On this day, Dad was taking the Hillside run for my brother. When Dad got there, the engineer was stopped on the road crossing, and was out of the Chevy/boxcar rig. Luckily Dad never drove fast, so he was putt-putting along, and when he let out the clutch, he ran straight into the little boxcar. He took it clean off the rails before the old ModelA stalled. I don’t know who was scared the most, Dad or the engineer. Dad laid down a pair of crossovers which he happened to have, and backed the old Chevy up and ran the boxcar

back on the rails — no damage other than paint and a few splinters. Now a word about the crossovers. Those were ingenious. They were heavy enough to work on the engine, and flat at each end, with a groove to take the flanged wheel and run up to rail level. It was a quite a sight to watch what they were pulling drop onto the rails. That wasn’t Dad’s last experience down there. He used to turn around at the intersection of the Denmark Road. It was big enough so he could turn without backing up, so on this day he turned and got to where he usually waited, let out the clutch, and went sailing up through the gray birches which then stood between him and the road, effectively hiding the car. It finally stalled, and (Continued on page 78)

Apples • Cider • Pick-Your-Own Farm Store featuring fudge, pies,

Maine-made crafts & gifts

aPPLE aCrES FarM “3 generations of Johnsons serving western Maine”

207-625-4777

32 Main St., Bridgton, ME 207-221-2645 Open 7 Days!

Durgintown Road • Hiram RESIDENTIAL

COMMERCIAL

creative covering solutions New England’s Source For Flooring

hardwood • tile/stone • pavers laminate • resilient flooring •carpet

Sales & Installation • Fully Insured 207-632-0760 • Bridgton, Maine Adam Forsythe / Email: adam@ccs-tile.com

see our portfolio at www.ccs-tile.com

Gift Certificates Available 19 207.647.4003 ~ www.morningdewnatural.com

Wide selection of gluten-Free

Discover Maine 78

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

(Continued from page 77)

Dad got out and walked out to the road. Luckily one of his grandsons came along and stopped. Dad was a little mortified, but he pointed up towards the woods and said, “The car’s up there somewhere.” His grandson was so tickled, he pretty near split. He followed the skinned birches for nearly 100 feet, and here’s the old Ford sitting on a big clump with its front wheels in the air. He said, “It got itself up there, so I’ll try and back it out.” It came off that clump pretty hard, but after that he just pushed the trees the other way. There were already so many dents in the fenders; he couldn’t find any new ones. Anyway, Dad got home with the mail, and, as I remember, he didn’t drive much after that. Other businesses from this area are featured in the color section.

Store and Post office in South Limington. Item #102522 from the Eastern Illustrating & Publishing Co. Collection and www.PenobscotMarineMuseum.org

Cardinal

Printing Company, Inc.

APPLEs

noW oFFERInG:

► Full Color Printing ► Traditional offset Printing ► Computer to Plate Capabilities ► Full Service Printing & Direct Mail

33 E. Main St, Denmark, ME 04022

207-452-2931 • 1-800-320-2931 Fax: 207-452-2979 • Email: cardinal@fairpoint.net

www.cardinalprintinginc.com

FoR ALL youR PRInTInG nEEDS!

JOrDan

trEE HarvEStErS, inC. Family Owned & Operated • Fully Insured Over 20 Years Experience • Locally Owned

Macintosh, Cortland & Macouns Available Soon

Batch Pressed cider and Pies

647-2425

route 107 • South Bridgton

fivefieldsski.com Check Out Our Picking Schedule Cross Country skiing in season

30 CELEBRATIING ICE yEARS OF SERV

PO Box 186 • Parsonsfield, ME 04047

– Buying Wood lots –

207/625-8915

attention golfeRS!

Don’t put your clubs away this winter! 22 championship courses that will test your skill and nerves. Plus a driving range if you just want to work on your swing.

Logging ~ Specializing in wood lot selective cutting Pulping • Chipping • Land Clearing *Stumpage paid on wood value

free Estimates ~ Call today! 207-625-4378 • Cell: 207-329-8019

Now accepting orders for DRy & GREEN fIREWOOD

Play one of our Full Swing golf Simulators

fullly mechanized timber Harvesting

~ firEwOOD ~

FireWooD

Weekly 9 Hole quota tournaments start in December

saco valley sports center 95 Pine Street • Fryeburg, ME 04037

935-3777

sacovalleysportscenter.com

— Western Lakes & Mountains Region —

Directory Of Advertisers Business

Page

ABC Builders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 ABC Rubbish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 ABT Plumbing & Heating . . . . . . . . .31 Advance 1 Cleaning Service . . . . . . . .21 All Purpose Glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Andre’s Barrels & Buckets . . . . . . . . . .6 Andrew Ames Logging . . . . . . . . . . . .76 Apple Acres Farm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Archie’s Rubbish Removal . . . . . . . . .67 Arkay Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Awesome Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Bald Mountain Camps . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Bear River Trading Post . . . . . . . . . . .67 Beech Hill Farm Bison Ranch . . . . . .75 Belgrade Performance & Repairs . . . .19 Berry Logging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Bingham Auto Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Bingham Village Video . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Blanchet Builders LLC . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Bliss Septic Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Bloom & Bloom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Blue Loon Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 B.N.F. Contractor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Bob’s Cash Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Bolster’s Mills General Store . . . . . . .70 Boomers Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Bordeau’s Backhoe & Welding . . . . . .65 Bosse Chiropractic & Wellness . . . . . .21 Brady’s ATV & Power Equipment . . . . . .16 BRC Carpentry Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Bruce A. Manzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 B’s Home Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Butcher’s Choice Restaurant . . . . . . . .22 Buy The Fire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 C & J Trailer Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 C. Haggan Jr. Excavation LLC . . . . . .56 Café Nomad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Carrabassett Real Estate . . . . . . . . . . .38 Cardinal Printing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 Care and Comfort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Central Maine Community College . . . . . . .7 Central Tire Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Chase Chimney & Stove Services . . . .67 Chris Ryan Haircolor Studio . . . . . . . .72 Coleman’s Flying & Guide Service . . . . .8 Computer Improvements . . . . . . . . . .52 Coos Canyon Campground . . . . . . . .63 Craig’s Body Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 Creative Covering Solutions (CCS) . .77 Crestholm Farm Stand . . . . . . . . . . . .72 D.H. Pinnette & Sons Inc. . . . . . . . . . .3 D.R. Salisbury Foundations . . . . . . . .39 DA Wilson & Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 DAC Distributors Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Daddy O’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 Dave’s Garage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 David Stevens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Davis Concrete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Debra Achramowicz, CPA . . . . . . . . .36 DeCato Builders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Devaney, Doak & Garrett Booksellers . . .17 Dick’s Auto Body & Collision Center . . . . .29 Dirigo Waste Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Doe’s Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Don Lowe & Sons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Double D Auto Sales” . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Business

Page

Business

Dunkin Donuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Dunn & Pakulski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 E&L Logging and Excavation . . . . . .64 E.J. Carrier Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 E.W. Moore & Son Pharmacy . . . . . .55 East Road Electric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Edmunds Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Ellis Pond Variety & Cabins . . . . . . . .63 Ellis Variety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 End of the Rainbow . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Evergreen Self-Storage . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Fairfield Antiques Mall . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Family Pet Connection & Grooming . . . . .53 Farmington Save-A-Lot . . . . . . . . . . .14 Farmington Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Fine Line Paving & Grading . . . . . . . .36 Fireside Inn & Suites . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Five Fields Farm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 Flagship Cinemas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Flagstaff Area Business Association .59 Floormaster North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Foundation Sealing Service . . . . . . . . .43 Four Winds Too Lobster Co. . . . . . . .31 Franklin Health Dermatology . . . . . .18 Franklin Savings Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Franklin-Somerset Federal Credit Union . . .5 Frechette’s Ski Doo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Fred O. Smith Manufacturing . . . . . . .14 Frederick Heating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Freeman’s Construction . . . . . . . . . . .68 Frost Motor Supply Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .66 G.L. Sundgren . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 G3 Firearms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Galeyrie Maps & Custom Frames . . .28 Gerald Vermette DDS . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Glen Luce Logging, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .29 Goin’ Postal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Goings Electric Supply Inc. . . . . . . . .14 Graf Mechanical Service Inc . . . . . . .50 GrantLee’s Tavern & Grill . . . . . . . . .32 Grant’s Asphalt Maintenance . . . . . . .50 Greenwood Mountain Inn . . . . . . . . .70 Gregorys DisposAll . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Group Adams Propane Services . . . .11 Grover Woodwork.com . . . . . . . . . . .31 Hammond Lumber Company . . . . . .27 Hanson Landworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Harris Drug Store . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Harvest Gold Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 HealthReach Community Health Centers . . . .8 Heritage House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Hight Chevrolet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Hillside Homes LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Howie’s Welding & Fabrication . . . . .12 Hungry Hollow Country Store . . . . . . .7 Hydraulic Hose & Assembly . . . . . . . .3 Imelda’s Fabric & Design . . . . . . . . . .17 Insulation Solutions Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .33 J&M Motors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 J.E. Carson Co. Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 J.T. Reid Gunshop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Jackman Auto Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Jackman Hardware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Jackman Hotel Lounge . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Jackman Power Sports . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Jake’s Garage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66

R.h. wales & son, inc. “HELP CONSERvE OuR FORESTS WITH WISE MANAGEMENT”

Page

Jason Stevens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Jay-Livermore-Livermore Falls Chamber . . .12 Jay’s Towing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Jean Castonguay Excavating . . . . . . . .31 Jimmy’s Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Jim’s Small Engine Service . . . . . . . . .31 Johnny Millionaire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 Jordan Lumber Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 Jordan Tree Harvesters . . . . . . . . . . . .78 JT’s Finest Kind Saw . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Judy’s Variety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Julian’s Wayne General Store . . . . . . .30 K.G. Millett Masonry . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Katie Q Convenience . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Keith Hadley Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Kelley’s Auto Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Kevin Hawes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Kitchen Solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Kniffin’s Specialty Meats . . . . . . . . . . .27 Knopp Chiropractic . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 KSW Federal Credit Union . . . . . . . .23 Kyes Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 L.N. Violette Co. Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Ladd Logging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Lake Parlin Lodge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Larsen’s Electric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 LaVallee’s Garage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Lemon Stream Gamelands . . . . . . . . .25 Linnell Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Long Pond Camps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Looney Moose Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Luce’s Maine-Grown Meats . . . . . . . .37 Luker’s Place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 M. Stanley Excavation LLC . . . . . . . .46 Madison Automotive & Recreation . .26 Maine Historical Society . . . . . . . . . . .28 Maine Maple Products . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Maine Veterans Homes . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Maine-ly Elder Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Major’s Heating Services . . . . . . . . . . .71 Mama Bear’s Den . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Martin’s Auto Service . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Maurice Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Maynard’s In Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 McAllister Accounting & Tax . . . . . . .12 McCormack Building Supply . . . . . . .20 McLucas Firewood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 Merle Lloyd & Sons . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Michael F. Cook & Associates . . . . . . .7 Mid Maine Chamber of Commerce . . . . . .33 Mike Wainer Plumbing & Heating . . . .32 Mingo Springs Golf Course . . . . . . . .62 Moosehead Motorsports . . . . . . . . . . .41 Moosehead Rubbish & Recycling . . . .58 Moosehead Sled Repair & Rentals . . .40 Moosetracks Family Cottages . . . . . . .42 Morning Dew Natural Grocery . . . . .77 Morris Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Morton & Furbish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Mountain Country Supermarket . . . .56 N.R. PC Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Napa of Greenville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 Naples Packing Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 New Portland Agricultural Fair . . . . .50 Niboban Camps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Nicols Brothers Trucking/Logging. . . .67

Business

Page

Business

tiMBeR hARvestiNg lAND CleARiNg

the Hills of Western Maine!”

925-1363

tel: 207.743.2281 • Fax: 207.743.0687

po Box 116 lovell, Me 04051

web: www.oxfordhillsMaine.com email: info@oxfordhillsMaine.com

“Head for the Hills...

4 western Avenue, south paris, Me 04281

Page

Scott - N - Scottie’s Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .20 Scott’s Flooring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Shields Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Short Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Simply Sweet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 Skills Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Skowhegan Equipment & Tool . . . . .52 Small Engine Specialty . . . . . . . . . . . .64 Smart & Edwards Funeral Home . . . .52 Smedberg’s Crystal Spring Farm . . . .71 Solon Corner Market . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Solon Hotel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Solon Superette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Sonny’s Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Sonny’s Seafood & Sandwiches . . . . .29 Spillover Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Stan’s Excavation & Home Building . . . . .20 Stetson’s Auto Service . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 Steve Thomas Builders . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Stevens Forest Products . . . . . . . . . . .19 Sully’s Restaurant & Tavern . . . . . . . .30 Sun Auto & Salvage . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 T.R.H. & Sons Excavation . . . . . . . . .29 Taste of Eden Vegan Café . . . . . . . . .75 Taylor Made Homes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Taylor’s Drug Store . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Tessier Custom Carpentry . . . . . . . . .50 The Corner Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 The Irregular . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 The River View Resort . . . . . . . . . . . .68 The Sterling Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 The Storekeepers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 The Sudbury Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 The White Elephant . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Tourmaline Hill Farm . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Town of Mexico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Trantens Family Market . . . . . . . . . . .60 Trucks Unlimited . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Tuttles Auto Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Twin Rivers Building Supply . . . . . . . .63 Undercover Flea Market . . . . . . . . . . .73 Village Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 V-Town Paintball . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 W.D. Bickford Machinery . . . . . . . . . .36 Ward Cedar Log Homes . . . . . . . . . . .76 Warren’s Florist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 Watson, Neal & York Funeral Home . . . .76 Western Maine Community Action . . . . . .5 Western Mountains Financial Services . . . . .15 Whitewater Farm Market . . . . . . . . . .16 Whitney Building . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Wilber Heating & Plumbing . . . . . . . .62 William Perry Cigar Lounge . . . . . . . .77 Wilson Excavating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 Wings Hill Inn & Restaurant . . . . . . .19 Winslow Aluminum . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Winslow Automotive & Tire . . . . . . .20 Winthrop Area Federal Credit Union . . . .30 Winthrop Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Wood Pellet Warehouse . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Woodlawn Rehab & Nursing . . . . . . .38 Wood-Mizer of Maine . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Wood’s Lawn Company . . . . . . . . . . .47 Woody’s Bar & Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58

North Camps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 North Country Powersports . . . . . . . .34 North Country Trailers . . . . . . . . . . . .23 North Country Variety . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Northeast Laboratory Services . . . . . . .5 Northern Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Northern Mountains Real Estate . . . .56 Northland Hotel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Northwood Builders . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 On The Level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Orange Cat Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Otis Federal Credit Union . . . . . . . . .12 Oxford Federal Credit Union . . . . . . .28 Oxford Hills & Weston Funeral Services . . . .71 Oxford Hills Chamber . . . . . . . . . . . .79 Oxford Hills Taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 P&D Handyman & Carpentry . . . . . .75 Packard Appraisal Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .47 Paradis Window Tinting . . . . . . . . . . .54 Paris Appraisal Services . . . . . . . . . . .70 Pat’s Pizza Bethel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Penobscot Marine Museum . . . . . . . .48 Peppers Garden & Grill . . . . . . . . . . .10 Pine Grove Lodge & Cabins . . . . . . .40 Pine Tree Orthopedic & Footcare . . .80 Pine Tree Paving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Pine Tree Timber Frames . . . . . . . . . .23 Pines Market LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Pleasant River Motel . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Pleasant Street Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Poland Corporation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Polly’s Variety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 Poulin-Turner Union Hall . . . . . . . . . .50 Quinn Hardware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 R.E. Lowell Lumber Inc. . . . . . . . . . .29 R.F. Automotive Repair . . . . . . . . . . . .54 R.H. Wales & Son Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .79 R.S. Pidacks Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Ralph Libby Chainsaws . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Randy’s Full Service Auto Repair . . . . .37 Rangeley Auto Supply . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Rangeley Equipment Repair . . . . . . . .61 Rangeley Rehab and Wellness Center . . . .61 Rangeley Saddleback Inn . . . . . . . . . .80 Raymond Remodeling . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 RDM Electric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Redington Fairview General Hospital . . . .38 Rick-Kevin Lewis Construction . . . . .76 Rick’s Garage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 River Valley Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Riverside Realty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Rob Elliot Excavation & Trucking . . .44 Robert W. Libby & Sons Inc. . . . . . . . .8 Roland H. Tyler Logging . . . . . . . . . .63 Rolfe Corporation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 Ron’s Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Rooster’s Roadhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Rumford Fraternal Order of Eagles . . .65 Rumford Hospital . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Sackett & Brake Survey Inc. . . . . . . . .52 Saco Valley Sports Center . . . . . . . . . .78 Sandy River Cash Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Sandy River Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Sandy River Golf Course . . . . . . . . . .16 Sandy River/York Farms . . . . . . . . . .32 Santos Custom Builders . . . . . . . . . . . .6

The Oxford Hills Chamber of Commerce

Discover Maine

g.l. SUnDgrEn lead Smart renovators Specializing in fine Craftsmanship fUlly inSUrED StatE CErtifiED #klSri-852 PO Box 76 Fryeburg, ME 04037

756-9635

geoffrey l. Sundgren glsundgren@yahoo.com

Western Lakes & Mountains Region

• • • • • • • •

aTVing biking birding boating camping canoeing and kayaking Fly Fishing and Trolling golfing

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Hiking and nature Trails Hunting leaf Peeping downhill Skiing – (alpine) cross country Skiing – (nordic) • Snowmobiling • Scenic drives

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Skating Skeet Shooting Sliding Snowshoeing Indoor Pool Tennis Wildlife Viewing

Rangeley Saddleback Inn 2303 Main Street • Rangeley, Maine USa 04970

207-864-3434