little bites
A TASTE OF COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG
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or British aristocrats, dining was an elaborate affair in Colonial Williamsburg – and entertaining in colonial times was all about impressing the guests. Showing off wealth and status was important and often accomplished by serving luxurious dinners. During the 1700s, English gentry in Williamsburg would serve French-influenced cuisine as a way of presenting an elaborate, decorative spectacle to impress their guests. Landed gentry, particularly the Governor, appointed by the King of England, set elegant tables with imported china, exquisite crystal, fine sterling silver and wines. English aristocrats were enamored with French cuisine – the ultimate status symbol was to have a cook trained in French cuisine on staff. Dinner parties started mid-afternoon and lasted late into the night or through the early morning. The gatherings were also an opportunity to visit, catch up on the latest news, play cards and dance. After dinner, the men would toast the King of England over bowls of “punch” – a fruit drink concoction laced with rum and exotic spices. They’d discuss politics and the business of the day, while the women retreated to the parlor to gossip. Dining was a complicated endeavor with many unwritten rules of table and culinary etiquette. Multiple courses were served and there was an order that was necessary to follow. Just ask Frank Clark, an expert on18th century colonial cuisine and Master of Historic Foodways at the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation. Mr. Clark can often be seen preparing food in the kitchen of the Governor’s Palace or giving cooking demonstrations in the other kitchens throughout Colonial Williamsburg, demonstrating recipes from 18th century cookbooks. Culinary historians recreate and explain the techniques and ingredients used to prepare foods in the period kitchens using 18th century equipment. “No question about it, the Governor’s Palace kitchen was the finest kitchen in Virginia 200 years ago in terms of the staff and equipment,” Mr. Clark explained. “It was vogue to lavishly embellish food back in the 18th century.” Multicourse meals were served for special occasions like Christmas, New Year’s Eve or even winter weddings, which were commonplace in Colonial Virginia. Beautifully prepared and embellished Fish en Croûte was one of the dishes typically found on the Virginia gentry’s table. Wrapped in simple pastry dough, decorated and baked until golden brown, the fish dish would have been the first course, followed by meat (let’s not forget Virginia ham, a colonial staple). The sec14
edible San Antonio
Colonial Williamsburg’s Governor’s Palace (Photo courtesy)
ond course was usually lighter fare, like rabbit or crab and perhaps carrot pudding for dessert. Mr. Clark explained colonial desserts were not just a sweet taste to finish a meal. “Desserts were designed to clear out your palate and were a digestive aid – they usually consisted of candied ginger and orange peel or candied almonds,” he said. Crocant covers, a culinary feature also borrowed from the French, were decorative and wildly popular. The fanciful pierced pastry domes, truly edible art, added panache and sophistication to colonial tablescapes. The dough was draped over an upside-down bowl, then hand-carved to create decorative designs and baked (recipe at bit.ly/crocant). Charles Alan Welsh, an intern of Colonial Williamsburg Historic Foodways, explained in a blog that “fanciful desserts of sweetmeats, sugar and pastry, such as a crocant, were a way to delight diners while showing off the power and wealth of the host. Though not hard to create, a pastry dome crocant would take time and effort to produce.” For a taste of history and colonial inspired cuisine, enjoy dinner at one of Colonial Williamsburg’s four historic taverns on your next trip east. In the meantime, you can learn more about 18th century cuisine and find recipes at colonialwilliamsburg.com. ~ Michelle Newman
THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE