37151 Edible SA

2020 Cocktail Conference - Issue No. 36

CONTENTS

Above: Charcuterie and beer are always trending in San Antonio. (Photo by Amanda Spencer) Cover: The Clean Sneak is the 2020 San Antonio Cocktail Conference signature cocktail. (Photo by Jason Risner)

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT

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ADVISORY COUNCIL

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LITTLE BITES 2020 SACC Schedule, Charc Week and more

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FOOD FOR THE SOUL The Language of Food

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LOCAL DINING GUIDE Eat Local with Us

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MIMI’S HEIRLOOM RECIPES Bitterballen

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RANCH LIFE Lonely Stray Cow and Texas Red Chili

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EDIBLE DESTINATION Osaka Street Food and Noodle Quest

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LOCAL FARMERS MARKETS Where and When

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THE COFFEE LADY SA’s Original Coffee Festival

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LOCAL PINTS Tusculum Brewing Co.

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FEEDING HOPE In the New Decade

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ELENA’S SEASONAL FLAVORS A Taste of Winter

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LATIN ROOTS Ed, the Cuban Exile

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THE LAST BITE

Love Letter to a Chef

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SAN ANTONIO® PUBLISHER Frederic C. Covo EDITORINCHIEF Angela Covo MANAGING EDITOR Delia Covo CREATIVE DIRECTOR Sophie Covo Gonzales BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Christopher Covo CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Marianne Odom, Amanda Covo CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Linda Brewster, Elena D’Agostino, Lauren Deal, Marcy Epperson, Mimi Faubert, Michael Guerra, J.E. Jordan, Kristoffer Leyton, Noi Mahoney, Michelle Newman, Mark Peterson, Robert Sanchez, Michael Sohocki, Dave Terrazas, Morgan Villegas, Hinnerk Von Bargen DESIGN & LAYOUT

Florence Edwards, Pixel Power Graphics Cover photo by Jason Risner CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Anagoria, Averette, Achim Bongard, Jessica Geisey, Jason Risner, Whitney Schrader, Amanda Spencer, Carole Topalian

FINANCE MANAGER Louis Gonzales

Our heartfelt thanks to the friends and businesses who make this magazine possible.

Remember to like us on Facebook: www.Facebook.com/EdibleSanAntonio LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Please call 210-274-6572 or email angela@ediblesanantonio.com ADVERTISING Please call 210-365-8046 or email fred@ediblesanantonio.com Homegrown Media LLC publishes Edible San Antonio every eight weeks.

Distribution is throughout South Central Texas and nationally by subscription.

Your annual subscriptions support the mission and are $35 annually.

Please order online at www.EdibleSA.com or call (210) 365-8046 to order by phone.

We make every effort to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and let us know. Thank you. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2019. All rights reserved.

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THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

DON STRANGE OF TEXAS

WE HELP YOU

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www.LABONNEVIERANCH.com 1827 Pfiester Road ‡ Fredericksburg TX 78624 ‡ info@labonnevieranch.com ‡ 210-651-2506 ediblesanantonio.com

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a special thank you EDIBLE SAN ANTONIO

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ADVISORY COUNCIL

Chef Michael Sohocki

Leslie Komet Ausburn

Darryl Byrd

Sandy Winokur, Ph. D

Roberta Churchin

Marianne Odom

Chef Stephen Paprocki

Adam Rocha

Di-Anna Arias

Chef Johnny Hernandez

Bob Webster

Chef Jeff White

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THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

little bites

WINTER WATERING Blades of grass (Photo by Achim Bongard)

Nature provides enough moisture during the winter months to maintain plant needs during dormancy. But don’t just take our word for it – consult ET.

S

outh Texans are pretty fortunate. We often enjoy mild winter weather with just enough precipitation to eliminate the need to water our landscapes.

Plants certainly require water for physiological processes such as photosynthesis and metabolism, but the amount is much less than people think it is. Native and adapted species seldom die if normal rainfall is less than average for a season or even a year. Even during the worst year (2011) in recorded history for heat, wind and drought, 94 percent of the state’s trees survived.

During recent years, monthly rainfall often exceeded historic averages by significant amounts, yet homeowners are still watering – sometimes even while it’s raining.

Why don’t we need to water, you ask?

The simple answer is that nature provides enough moisture during winter to maintain plants during dormancy. But there’s also empirical evidence why we recommend drastically cutting back on watering during winter – evapotranspiration.

Known as ET for short, evapotranspiration is the combination of total water used by the plant, water that evaporates from the leaves (transpiration) and water that evaporates from the ground.

To determine a plant’s water needs, ET is calculated using a reference plant and comparing it to similar individual plants or groups of plants.

In Texas, our landscape reference plant is fescue grass that is 4 inches tall and growing in optimal conditions without stress. The resulting water need is calculated in inches.

Through science and experience, we know that cool season grasses like Kentucky blue grass and ryegrass, do very well at 80 percent of the ET of the reference plant, otherwise known as ETo. And warm season grasses – Bermuda, St. Augustine and zoysia – do very well at 60 percent of ETo. We take one more step with turf and add a seasonal or quality coefficient to the species coefficient that varies with the seasons.

For example, the winter, spring and fall coefficient is 60 percent and for the summer season it’s 80 percent.

Here’s the best part – nearly all South Texas native or adapted plants can grow with just 20 percent to 30 percent of ETo. Historically, ETo in winter months – November, December, January and February – has been 2.6 inches. That translates to about nine-tenths of an inch of water for turf and a little less for all other plants. But rainfall eliminates any need to water because rainfall for those months usually averages about 1.8 inches – double the average plant need. You can learn more at the TexasET Network at texaset.tamu.edu.

Sure, some years we have less rain than others during the winter season. But typically, our native plants scoff at winter drought.

In particularly dry winters, you may need to supplement rainfall with two or three watering events. When this occurs, choose a holiday once a month during winter.

Depending on the weather, warm season grasses may need water once every 4 weeks. Native trees, shrubs, perennials and trees may need water once every 6-8 weeks. When you do water, make sure it’s a deep, thorough soaking. And, of course, remember that any effective rainfall during that month would eliminate the need for additional water.

If you feel you must water, use the holiday watering method.

This is generally more than enough watering to keep your lawn healthy and weeds at bay. Just pick one day, a holiday, each month to help you remember when to water. If you can remember a holiday, you can remember to water.

Also remember that San Antonio Water System sewer charges are based on average winter water use, as measured across three complete billing cycles from mid-November to mid-March.

Watering your landscape less in winter can also save you money throughout 2020. ~ Mark Peterson, San Antonio Water System Editor’s note: Mark A. Peterson is a conservation project coordinator for San Antonio Water System. With over 30 years of experience as an urban forester and arborist, Mark is probably the only person we know who actually prunes trees for fun.

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THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

LOCAL FOOD MOVEMENT SA’S SUSTAINABLE TREND

L

et us not forget that the cultivation of earth is the most important labor of man. When tillage begins other arts will follow. The farmers, therefore, are the founders of civilization.”

Daniel Webster wrote this more than 150 years

ago.

Then in the 1940s, processed foods became the mainstay of the American diet. But using fresh local foods re-emerged during the 60s, and thanks to Alice Water and Chef Jeremiah Tower at Chez Panisse in California in the 70s, using farm-to-table ingredients became a movement that persists today.

That farm-to-table movement was a revolution of sorts, defined by the Cambridge Dictionary as cooking that uses fresh ingredients grown or produced not far from where they’re eaten. According to Discovery, the movement improves the economic state of local farms by 22 percent and reduces our carbon footprint by 41 percent while also encouraging food diversity.

And it tastes good, too. Some of the world’s most recognized chefs support local food.

Chef Gastón Acurio of Astrid y Gastón in Peru explained “… we [chefs] have become ambassadors of farmers and much more important than the product is the farmer behind it.”

Today, many of our great San Antonio chefs are also local food champions who recognize the value of using farm-to-table ingredients. They believe incorporating ingredients from local farmers is not only delicious, but helps our farmers, builds sustainability and promotes the flavor and health benefits of fresh ingredients.

Local chef and owner of Cookhouse, Pieter Sypesteyn shared his thoughts about the movement in San Antonio.

“I believe [San Antonio’s] culinary community definitely embraces the local food movement – it’s been strong here for quite a while now. The bigger challenge I see is getting more people outside of the culinary community to understand the importance

of supporting the local food movement,” he explained.

Chef Sypesteyn believes it would be very helpful if chefs could also find ways to promote the benefits of local products they use.

“I think many people don’t understand the reasons WHY we should use local products,” he added. “That’s part of our job as chefs and restaurateurs, to spread the good news of community development through local food.”

In Texas, the farm-to-table movement is having a positive impact on younger generations, with many school districts working to include local food in school cafeterias. The win-win approach helps support small farms by giving them regular business and helps students by providing them with healthy, fresh, locally grown food. Using local ingredients also decreases our carbon footprint because it limits the transfer of processed foods across the country and the need for plastic packaging.

Still, despite the surging popularity of local food, the need for better quality food has reached an all-time high with more than 70 percent of calories consumed coming from processed food packed with preservatives and pesticides according to National Geographic.

And two large studies published in the British Medical Journal concluded that policy makers “should shift their priorities away from food reformulation, which risks positioning ultra-processed food as a solution to dietary problems, towards a greater emphasis on promoting the availability, affordability and accessibility of unprocessed or minimally processed foods.”

There is great value in supporting our local producers – when we use local food, we participate and help create a more sustainable and healthier lifestyle at home and when eating out. In the words of J.R.R. Tolkien in the Hobbit, “If more of us valued food, cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.”

So, for 2020, let’s redouble our efforts and support our local farmers, our diets and keep the local food movement and local economy strong. Eat local! ~ Robert Sanchez

Di-Anna Arias cooked and styled this root vegetable latke for Edible San Antonio using local ingredients. (Photo by Whitney Kelly Schrader) ediblesanantonio.com

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EAT VEGAN AT FAT RABBIT KITCHEN

Sal Tinajero cooks up plant-based fare at a new vegan spot on the Westside.

(Photo by Noi Mahoney)

F

at Rabbit Kitchen’s motto is “Food of The Future.”

The new vegan eatery, which serves late night munchies, helps fill a void in the San Antonio market, and they do it in a friendly way.

And one bite of their popular Popcorn Chick’n on Mac’n’Cheez – with a side of the vegan ranch sauce, of course – is enough to turn someone into a vegan believer. The same can be said for the Supreme Pizza, which offers a savory mix of sliced veggies, vegan pepperoni and cheese.

Menu items like these are what the owners of Fat Rabbit Kitchen hope will make the new restaurant on San Antonio’s far Westside at 8122 Marbach Road a success. Sal Tinajero opened Fat Rabbit Kitchen on Oct. 18 and business has been brisk with hungry diners ever since.

“We had a soft opening in October that we announced on our Instagram account and we had a line of like 50 people waiting the first day,” Mr. Tinajero shared. “Business has been good since we opened.”

Other menu items include the Popcorn Shrimp Mac’n’Cheez, Bacon-Loaded Cheez Fries, Red Hot Cauliflower Wings, Cashuccine Alfredo, Lobster Pizza, Pepperoni Pizza and more. They also serve desserts such as Pumpkin donuts, Wild Blueberry donuts and churros.

Monday night is pizza night, and so far, it’s been a great success.

“It gets packed, people go crazy for the pizzas,” Mr. Tinajero added. “Our Supreme Pizza is the most popular.”

Mr. Tinajero, who moved to San Antonio from Los Angeles around two years ago, explained he cooked up the idea for the restaurant with his fiancé, Savannah Molleda. He moved here after he met his future wife, a San Antonio native.

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Both Mr. Tinajero and Ms. Molleda are vegans and wanted to share their love of vegan food and compassion for animals with everyone.

“My nickname for Savannah was Rabbit because she was a vegan when I met her, and the name Fat Rabbit Kitchen kind of evolved from that,” Mr. Tinajero said.

This is the team’s first foray into the restaurant business, but his experience as a club promoter and social media influencer in Los Angeles has been very helpful. Initially, they looked into locations around the St. Mary’s strip, but couldn’t find the right space. They eventually found the spot off Marbach Road right next to Loop 410, which felt just right.

“Savannah is from the area, she went to (nearby) John Jay High School,” Mr. Tinajero explained.

They are already discussing a second location, possibly another restaurant in Live Oak, and also a food truck in the near future.

The food truck, Fat Rabbit Veg-Mex, will feature vegan Mexican cuisine. With so many vegans or people looking for a meatless option in San Antonio, Mr. Tinajero found his niche.

Fat Rabbit is open Sunday through Wednesday from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., Thursdays until 10:30 p.m., Fridays until 11 p.m. and Saturdays until midnight. You can order ahead via Direct Message on Instagram or by calling (210) 544-7458.

So why is their motto “Food of the Future?”

“Our food is 100 percent vegan, plant-based, and no animals are harmed in the making of this delicious food,” Mr. Tinajero explained. ~ Noi Mahoney

THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

a i s A et k Mar

亚 亚 洲 洲 超 超 市 市

est. 1997

THE ORIGINAL ASIA SUPERMARKET mon. tue. wed. fri. sat.

10 am - 9 pm

market days thurs.

9 am to 10:30 pm sun.

10 am - 8 pm

5732 Evers Road San Antonio, Texas 78238 asiamarketsatx@gmail.com

Just 4.2 miles from downtown Fredericksburg, the estate features 40 acres of vineyards and 4 boutique Texas brands including the wines of 1851 Vineyards.

The historic farm, settled in 1851, is the location of the first Pioneer Flour Mill, founded by Carl Hilmar Guenther.

Tasting Room Hours Thursday-Saturday: 11-6pm Sunday: 12-5pm

WWW.SLATEMILLWINECOLLECTIVE.COM

Wine tastings are available during open hours and private cellartours are available by appointment.

Jen@blankslatewines.com

4222 S STATE HWY 16, FREDERICKSBURG, TX 78624 • 830.391.8510 ediblesanantonio.com

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ENJOY A LITTLE PANACHE AT PASTICHE

A

ward-winning bartender Benjamin Krick has a solid reputation in town with a great foundation in craft cocktails, showmanship and a thirst for knowledge and travel. Now he’s mixing that OldWorld European charm with Southern hospitality at San Antonio’s newest eastside bar, Pastiche.

“Pastiche came together after meeting friends of friends who wanted to open a wine bar,” Mr. Krick said. “We talked for weeks – we had the same vision for a bar. The timing was perfect to find a new home.”

Pastiche is the second establishment opened by Mr. Krick and local entrepreneur Lucas Bradbury. The team opened Jet-Setter earlier this year on Houston Street (also the site of San Antonio’s first Miracle Pop-up Christmas Bar).

Restaurant industry magazine StarChefs named Mr. Krick a winner of its 2017 Rising Stars lineup of “up-and-coming chefs and culinary professionals who represent the vanguard of the contemporary American dining scene.” He was recognized for his bartending skills, especially for his Portuguese gin and tonic.

“In his explorations, Mr. Krick collected stories of food, friends and diverse cultures, which he brought back to San Antonio as his cocktails’ missing ingredients,” StarChefs wrote.

His first bartending gig was managing a wine bar in Charlotte, North Carolina, before catching a case of wanderlust. He moved to Spain to learn more about grapes. After Spain, he traveled to 25 countries in Europe and Northern Africa.

“Traveling is definitely important, I travel as much as I can,” Mr. Krick shared. “It’s a way to meet new friends, learn new things, get international bartenders to come to San Antonio and do guest gigs.”

Set in a quaint blue cottage on the corner of East Houston Street and Mesquite, Mr. Krick’s new concept bar features European cocktails made with premium ingredients, served in a cozy,

intimate atmosphere that feels distinctively French and reflects his travel experiences.

“Pastiche is a French term for celebrating the inspiration of others,” Mr. Krick added.

Although the bar’s name indeed translates to a work that imitates and celebrates the style of past artists, Pastiche itself is a true original. The menu is filled with unique craft cocktail combinations that highlight European spirits and an impressive selection of European wines, all served in locally sourced, delicate vintage glassware. Small bites from local French bakery La Boulangerie and a selection of teas from Blüm round out the offerings.

Communal indoor gathering spaces, as well as a lovely outdoor space fenced in by repurposed doors and outfitted with tables, chairs and a Pétanque area (a lawn game similar to boules), encourage visitors to engage with one another, while a separate back room serves as a place for local artists to create, showcase and sell their work.

“We are a community-driven neighborhood bar,” Mr. Krick explained. “Our goal is to grow with this community as it continues to thrive.”

ZERO WASTE

Like Jet-Setter, Pastiche is a zero-waste facility. All linens are washed on-site, and the fresh citrus and herbs that garnish the cocktails are grown on the property.

The new bar at 1506 E. Houston St. joins Tucker’s Kozy Korner (now under new management), Dignowity Meats, Cherrity Bar and Eastside Kitchenette in the neighborhood. Pastiche is open from 4 p.m. to midnight on Thursdays and Fridays and from 11 a.m. to midnight on Saturdays and Sundays. Plans for art shows, wine and spirit tastings and more community events are already in the works.

Street parking is available along Mesquite or Hackberry. To learn more, follow @pastiche.sa on Facebook and Instagram.

“Pastiche came together after meeting friends of friends who wanted to open a wine bar.

We talked for weeks – we had the same vision for a bar.

The timing was perfect to find a new home.”

— BENJAMIN KRICK San Antonio barman Ben Krick at Pastiche (Photo by A. Covo) ediblesanantonio.com

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NEW EXEC CHEF AT HYATT REGENCY Chef Christian Apetz from The Driskill Hotel in Austin joined the ranks of San Antonio chefs last fall when he was appointed Executive Chef for the Hyatt Regency in San Antonio, a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy.

“We are thrilled to welcome Christian to Hyatt Regency San Antonio,” General Manager Philip Stamm said. “Christian’s extensive experience working as an Executive Chef at numerous hotels throughout the country paired with his unmatched passion and love for creating exceptional dining experiences for guests makes him an incredible asset to our team. We are excited to see his vision for the hotel’s dining experience come to life.”

Chef Apetz grew up in the kitchen helping his mother, a native from Finland, make crepes and Finnish Pulla sweet bread.

His stepmother’s family was from Italy so at a young age he also learned how to make Italian specialties such as meatballs, fig salads and fresh-made pasta.

The young foodie knew he wanted to cook for a living and attended Johnson and Wales University in Providence, R.I. where he earned his degree in the culinary arts. After college, he joined the Corporate Management Trainee program with Hyatt Corporation and secured his first job with the company in 2000 as Sous Chef at Hyatt Regency Phoenix in Arizona. From there, he quickly rose through the ranks to Banquet Chef and then Executive Sous Chef working at several Hyatt properties throughout the country.

He also worked as Executive Chef at Hyatt Regency Boston Harbor, Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort and Spa, and of course, The Driskill Hotel.

“Having lived in San Antonio more than 10 years ago, I could not be more excited to return to this wonderful city and to be greeted by such a great team at Hyatt Regency San Antonio,” Chef Apetz explained. “This iconic River Walk hotel has seen a lot of change throughout the years, and I couldn’t resist the opportunity to reinvigorate the property’s culinary offerings with new life and creativity that will complement San Antonio as a world-class destination. I’ve been fortunate and honored to run culinary teams at some incredible hotels, and this one will be no exception.”

The chef will oversee the hotel’s culinary and stewarding operations at the Q Kitchen Bar and MKT. PLACE as well as the hotel’s in-room dining, banquet and catering offerings. Chef Apetz will also be responsible for menu development for both of the hotel’s restaurants as well as for meetings and events at the property.

“I like to be as forward facing with guests as possible. I prefer to find out firsthand what they like, what they dislike, and ensure I do everything I possibly can to make sure they come back,” he added.

To learn more or to book a stay or event at the Hyatt Regency San Antonio, visit HyattRegencySanAntonio.com.

“Having lived in San Antonio more than 10 years ago, I could not be more excited to return to this wonderful city and to be greeted by such a great team at Hyatt Regency San Antonio.”

— CHEF CHRISTIAN APETZ

Chef Christian Apetz joins ranks of San Antonio chefs. (Photo courtesy) ediblesanantonio.com

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A TASTE OF COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG

F

or British aristocrats, dining was an elaborate affair in Colonial Williamsburg – and entertaining in colonial times was all about impressing the guests. Showing off wealth and status was important and often accomplished by serving luxurious dinners.

During the 1700s, English gentry in Williamsburg would serve French-influenced cuisine as a way of presenting an elaborate, decorative spectacle to impress their guests. Landed gentry, particularly the Governor, appointed by the King of England, set elegant tables with imported china, exquisite crystal, fine sterling silver and wines. English aristocrats were enamored with French cuisine – the ultimate status symbol was to have a cook trained in French cuisine on staff.

Dinner parties started mid-afternoon and lasted late into the night or through the early morning. The gatherings were also an opportunity to visit, catch up on the latest news, play cards and dance. After dinner, the men would toast the King of England over bowls of “punch” – a fruit drink concoction laced with rum and exotic spices. They’d discuss politics and the business of the day, while the women retreated to the parlor to gossip.

Dining was a complicated endeavor with many unwritten rules of table and culinary etiquette. Multiple courses were served and there was an order that was necessary to follow.

Just ask Frank Clark, an expert on18th century colonial cuisine and Master of Historic Foodways at the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation. Mr. Clark can often be seen preparing food in the kitchen of the Governor’s Palace or giving cooking demonstrations in the other kitchens throughout Colonial Williamsburg, demonstrating recipes from 18th century cookbooks. Culinary historians recreate and explain the techniques and ingredients used to prepare foods in the period kitchens using 18th century equipment.

“No question about it, the Governor’s Palace kitchen was the finest kitchen in Virginia 200 years ago in terms of the staff and equipment,” Mr. Clark explained. “It was vogue to lavishly embellish food back in the 18th century.”

Multicourse meals were served for special occasions like Christmas, New Year’s Eve or even winter weddings, which were commonplace in Colonial Virginia.

Beautifully prepared and embellished Fish en Croûte was one of the dishes typically found on the Virginia gentry’s table.

Wrapped in simple pastry dough, decorated and baked until golden brown, the fish dish would have been the first course, followed by meat (let’s not forget Virginia ham, a colonial staple). The sec14

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Colonial Williamsburg’s Governor’s Palace (Photo courtesy)

ond course was usually lighter fare, like rabbit or crab and perhaps carrot pudding for dessert.

Mr. Clark explained colonial desserts were not just a sweet taste to finish a meal.

“Desserts were designed to clear out your palate and were a digestive aid – they usually consisted of candied ginger and orange peel or candied almonds,” he said.

Crocant covers, a culinary feature also borrowed from the French, were decorative and wildly popular. The fanciful pierced pastry domes, truly edible art, added panache and sophistication to colonial tablescapes. The dough was draped over an upside-down bowl, then hand-carved to create decorative designs and baked (recipe at bit.ly/crocant).

Charles Alan Welsh, an intern of Colonial Williamsburg Historic Foodways, explained in a blog that “fanciful desserts of sweetmeats, sugar and pastry, such as a crocant, were a way to delight diners while showing off the power and wealth of the host. Though not hard to create, a pastry dome crocant would take time and effort to produce.”

For a taste of history and colonial inspired cuisine, enjoy dinner at one of Colonial Williamsburg’s four historic taverns on your next trip east. In the meantime, you can learn more about 18th century cuisine and find recipes at colonialwilliamsburg.com. ~ Michelle Newman

THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

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A PROPER PORTABLE GRILL

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ireDisc, a revolutionary propane cooker, will definitely take your outdoor cooking to the next level. Tailgating, hunting and fishing, or just cooking in the backyard just got so much easier.

We discovered Firedisc at Chef Johnny Hernandez’s Paella Challenge last year and found it to be a fabulous tool that serves not only to make great paella (the shape is perfect) but just about anything you might want to cook outdoors.

With 9 years on the market, Texas natives and FireDisc cofounders Hunter and Gri Jaggard understand the details that make a dierence for just about any outdoor cooking adventure.

From their initial concept of revolutionizing outdoor cooking, the team has perfected this system and without a doubt, FireDisc is now the go-to brand. Even better, you can find it at local shops like Groomerhs Seafood, BBW Outfitters SA and even Buc-ee’s. And yes, it’s also available on Amazon.com.

The FireDisc portable propane cooker was designed to go wherever you go. Unlike typical grills, which require charcoal and the disposal of spent charcoal, don’t disassemble and are difficult to pack, the sturdy FireDisc is built to last and folds flat into a nice, neat, compact package for travel that easily fits in a car trunk, a truck, boat or RV. The flexible stand adapts easily to uneven surfaces, so you can select almost any outdoor cooking spot for the view, not the flat ground.

These one-of-a-kind cookers can also boil, blacken, fry, sear and accommodate any recipe in any environment you can throw at it.

With a 22-inch cooking surface and three temperature zones, plan to cook those delicious local fresh veggies and tender meat all at once. FireDisc fires up fast, cooks virtually anything, seasons like a cast-iron skillet and cleans up quickly with just water.

The entire system consists of two stand sections that nest together without tools or hardware, and the disc itself which sets onto the stand. It takes less than a minute to assemble or disassemble, and the three pieces lay flat for easy transport or storage in its own bag. And they have three models to choose from ‌ we use the Tall Portable Cooker.

The heavy-duty, highly polished and tempered ultra-high carbon steel construction ensures your FireDisc will last and provides versatile cooking performance for generations. We recommend it for its portability, reliability and versatility.

Enjoy this recipe for beer brats from the folks at FireDisc.

For more recipes, information and where to order, visit www.firedisccookers.com

WHAT YOU NEED

6 cans light beer 2 onions, sliced 15 bratwurst 2 tablespoons of minced garlic pinch of salt

DIRECTIONS Set your FireDisc to HIGH, add beer and onions and bring to a boil.

Submerge brats in beer, add garlic and salt. Reduce heat to LOW and cook for 15 minutes. Move brats to outer ring of the FireDisc and cook for 5 minutes per side. Serve brats with beer and onion mixture and enjoy!

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Delicious pastries baked from scratch will headline at the Cia Bakery at SAVOR from Feb. 4 through April 16. (Photo by Angela Covo)

CIA BAKERY CAFÉ POPS UP AT SAVOR

I

t’s back! The Culinary Institute of America-San Antonio’s (CIA) wildly popular Bakery Café at the Pearl opens at SAVOR from February 4 until April 16. CIA students in the college’s Baking and Pastry Arts program will showcase their skills in the school’s restaurant, SAVOR, during breakfast and lunch, and new this year, Saturday brunch.

Expect to enjoy a variety of signature sweet and savory bakery items and new creations, fresh pressed coffee or nitro brew and scratch-made pastries. Breakfast offerings include brioche French toast with macerated berries and whipped crème fraiche or pressed egg sandwiches with spinach, mushroom, prosciutto and gruyere.

For lunch, students whip up homemade soups, salads and sandwiches like the Fried Chicken Cubano or comfort food like chicken and dumplings or potato gnocchi with porcini mushroom ragu. We also expect to see some delicious surprises on the new menu.

And all our old favorites should still have a strong presence at

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the café, including the Chocolate XS Cake, the Opera Cake, the Argentine signature cookies known as Alfajores and (hurray!) the White Chocolate Banana Tarts.

Chef Alain Dubernard, CIA’s dedicated department chair for baking and pastry arts, is excited to be able to offer this hands-on training to his students.

The pop-up bakery café creates a unique dining experience for patrons while providing students familiarity with the daily operations of a bakery. The very special program is a capstone course for CIA baking and pastry arts majors graduating in April and the students put their hearts and souls, as well as their finely-honed skills, into creating an amazing culinary adventure for SAVOR patrons.

Takeout is available from 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday or enjoy café breakfast from 8:30 a.m. until 10:30 a.m. and lunch from 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. On Saturdays, enjoy brunch from 8:30 a.m. until 1:30 p.m.

THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

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CHARC WEEK RETURNS FEB. 2

C

hef Michael Sohocki, owner and creative mind behind Restaurant Gwendolyn, Kimura and Il Forno, has been a leader of culinary culture in San Antonio for years, raising the bar for our service industry and encouraging creativity.

His many contributions to San Antonio’s burgeoning culinary scene include Charc Week, designed to give local chefs a chance to showcase their work and to educate the public about the ancient art. The name was a play on Discovery Channel’s well-known Shark Week because Chef Sohocki originally chose summertime for Charc Week to help drive traffic to restaurants during slower, summer months.

To change things up a bit, Chef Sohocki transitioned the weeklong celebration of Charcuterie to the fall in 2017. And this year, Charc Week will happen during the winter season, taking place the week of Feb 2.

So how do you pronounce charcuterie and what is it, anyway?

Charcuterie is pronounced “shahr-ku-tuh-ree” and the term describes the art of preparing and assembling cured meats and other meat products. It also refers to an assortment of meats paired with different accompaniments, such as toast, fruit, cheese and sauces according to Webrestaurantstore.com.

The ultimate goal of Restaurant Gwendolyn’s Charc Week is to share and celebrate the ancient craft of charcuterie and related works. The event is structured to be non-competitive and academic in nature and benefits the San Antonio Food Bank.

To connect with the larger community, Chef Sohocki partnered up with the San Antonio Food Bank. When you buy tickets to any of the events associated with Charc Week or if you participate as a restaurant, proceeds support those in need in your local community.

Chefs who participate must be in control of their own menu, make everything on the plate (except for naturally occurring components such as honey or salt crystals), include at least four meat or meat-like items and sell the charc plates in their restaurants for $25.

Thanks to presenting sponsor Kiolbassa, Charc Week will kick off at Freight Art Gallery where Restaurant Gwendolyn and the chef partners will present several workshops. If you are thinking about buying tickets, please note these workshops are considered

Restaurant Gwendolyn Charc Week returns Feb. 2. (Photo courtesy)

advanced level discussion and assume a working understanding of kitchen fundamentals, use of weights and ratios, and basic cooking techniques.

For those who appreciate the craft of charcuterie, but prefer enjoying it instead of preparing it, Charc Week closes with an exclusive tasting event. Several chefs who participated in Charc Week will share their divine creations and attendees will get to vote for their favorites.

Another way to support during Charc Week is to visit local participating restaurants including Atta Girl, Bocado, Boiler House, Cookhouse, Il Forno, Kimura, Little Gretel, Maverick, Restaurant Gwendolyn and more.

The complete listing, including updates, tickets and chef participants is available at Facebook.com/gwendolynbutchery. Chefs interested in learning more about participating should email LDeal@safoodbank.org. To learn more about the San Antonio Food Bank, visit www.safoodbank.org. ~ Lauren Deal

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SA cocktail conference 2020

The 2020 SACC promises to be out of this world! Paramour presented this great treat at SACC’s Waldorf on the Prairie last year. (Photo by Angela Covo)

SAN ANTONIO COCKTAIL CONFERENCE

7*9:738 94 2&/*89.(

O

ne of a kind in Texas and now in its ninth year, the San Antonio Cocktail Conference (SACC), named “one of the best” in the USA by Fodor’s and other national publications, returns on Jan. 12 to provide a unique and exciting week of programming.

Every year SACC brings together top bartenders and cocktail enthusiasts for educational seminars, guided tastings and extraordinary cocktail parties. Houston Street Charities works year-round to create and present the annual San Antonio Cocktail Conference, celebrating the craft cocktail while engaging the community to support children’s charities.

Once again, the conference will donate 100 percent of its profits to benefit children. Past years’ beneficiaries have included organizations dedicated to shelter, safety, healthcare, mental health and food stability for children and their families.

Events and seminars are priced individually to make it easy to purchase a single event or seminar ticket. Patrons interested in several offerings can purchase the multi-event pass. Tickets range in price from $40 to $500 and suit every level of cocktail expertise and interest. Of course, every big event includes food offerings from some of the best chefs in the country, and the music and entertainment match the level of cocktails and food.

NEW this year is SACC’s RETURN to the Majestic Theatre for opening night on Thursday, Jan.16, where SACC will raise the curtain and kick off the Cocktail Conference in beauty and style. With the theatre’s majesty as the backdrop, the event will be a very special cocktail experience.

Back again on Friday, Jan. 17, SACC hosts Waldorf on the Prairie at the St. Anthony Hotel, which once again blends old New York Edward18

edible San Antonio

ian-era décor and romance, reminiscent of the world’s foremost grand hotel – the Waldorf Astoria, and old Texas charm, as only San Antonio and the St. Anthony can.

On Saturday, Jan. 18, SACC presents a new theme for closing night – Cocktails Under the Big Top! Dramatic lighting, props and engaging circus ‘acts’ throughout the venue-in-the round, the Villita Assembly Hall, will set the stage to create a big top unlike any you have experienced.

The 2020 Seminar portfolio includes top industry pros from all over the world and speaks to both business owners and bar operators, consumer novices and aficionados. For three days, from Thursday, Jan. 16 through Saturday, Jan. 18, these extremely talented and knowledgeable presenters partner with the conference to share information and expertise, enjoy the craft of the cocktail with industry colleagues, and experience the camaraderie and fun that San Antonio Cocktail Conference offers.

Remember to reserve your spot for these timely and topical seminars, covering subjects like Bar Hacks, Demystifying CBD, Barrels 101 and the story behind Ireland’s centuries-old spirit, the recently legalized Poitín (1997).

Don’t forget to save Saturday afternoon, Jan. 18, to attend Tasting Suites in small ballrooms and hotel suites at the St. Anthony Hotel.

A Tasting Suites ticket is an opportunity to wander through several beautiful rooms at this popular destination, sampling both large and boutique brands and meeting the people and makers behind the brands – the perfect SACC afternoon and a not-to-miss ticket.

See what everyone’s talking about – start the new year right and cocktail San Antonio style. Visit www.sacocktailconference.com for the most up-to-date schedule, tickets and information.

THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

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2020 Schedule

2020 SCHEDULE ▪ Sunday, January 12 ▪ Paired Brunch: Peggy’s on the Green & Herradura, 12 PM

▪ Wednesday, January 15 ▪ Paired Dinner: Biga on the Banks & Redemption Rye, 7:00 PM Paired Dinner: Bohanan’s Prime Steaks and Seafood & Rossville Union Rye Whiskey, 7:00 PM Paired Dinner: Botika & Santa Teresa 1796 Solera Rum, 7:00 PM Paired Dinner: Dorrego’s & Flor de Caña, 7:00 PM Paired Dinner: Hot Joy & Tiki Lover’s Rum, 7:00 PM Paired Dinner: Las Canarias & Glenmorangie, 7:00 PM Paired Dinner: Ostra & Casa Noble, 7:00 PM Paired Dinner: Primero Cantina & Rum-Bar and Worthy Park Estate Rums, 7:00 PM Paired Dinner: Rebelle & Grey Goose – The Evolution of The Martini, 7:00 PM Paired Dinner: Sweet Fire Kitchen & Hendrick’s Gin, 7:00 PM Paired Dinner: Toro Kitchen + Bar & Roca Patron, 7:00 PM

▪ Thursday, January 16 ▪ Headliner Event: Opening Night at the Majestic Theatre, 7:30-11:00 PM Seminar: Inclusivity Increases Profits - Johnny Caldwell & Taneka Reaves – The Cocktail Bandits, 10:30-11:45 AM Seminar: How Not to Have a Mentor - Miranda Breedlove, Carley Gaskin, Mary Palac & Mattias Horseman, 10:30-11:45 AM Seminar: Cognac Education with the 5th Generation of the Hardy Family - Benedicte Hardy, 11 AM-12:15 PM Seminar: Mezcal & Amaro – The Myths & The Folklore, Gaby Mlynarczyk, Dany Mena & Fabio Parziano - 12-1:15 PM Seminar: Kingdom Fungi: Everything the Yeast Touches - Maggie Campbell, 12-1:45 PM Seminar: One Team, One Dream - Chris Furtado & Mike Raymond, 12:30-1:45 PM Seminar: You’re Confused? I’m Confused! (and I’m an Expert) - Heather Greene, 1:30-2:45 PM Seminar: Dealer’s Choice – The Art of No Menu - Andrew Whibley and Nick Kennedy, 3-4:15 PM

Tickets and a full schedule with descriptions are available on the event website, sacocktailconference.com.

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THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

Schedule 2020 2020 SCHEDULE

▪ Friday, January 17 ▪ Headliner Event: Waldorf on the Prairie, 7:30-11:00 PM Seminar: Hospitality Beyond the Bar - Claire Bertin-Lang & Erin Hayes, 10:30-11:45 AM Seminar: Centuries of Poitin: Ireland’s Notorious Spirit - Dave Mulligan, 10:30-11:45 AM Seminar: Community, Quality & Sustainability in Mezcal - Gilbert Marquez, 11 AM-12:15 PM Seminar: Rum Runners of Prohibition & A History of Barbados Rum - Richard Seale & Bailey Pryor, 11 AM-12:15 PM Seminar: Making It Their Own - Chris Furtado & Mike Raymond, 11 AM-12:15 PM Seminar: The Eh, B, C’s of Canadian Whiskey - Dave Mitton & Gina Fossitt, 12:30-1:45 PM Seminar: WSET – A Systematic Approach to Tasting Spirits - Sandra Spalding & Rob McCaughey, 12:30-1:45 PM Seminar: Bar Hacks: A Step by Step to Adding Draft Cocktails to Your Bar - Nico Martini & Scott Jenkins, 12:301:45 PM Seminar: Barrel Chemistry 101 - Kiowa Bryan, 1:15-2:30 PM Seminar: The Story of Creation (Liqueurs & Modifiers, That Is) - John Troia, 2-3:15 PM Seminar: Agave Distillates & Artisanal Distillation Techniques in Mexico - William Scanlan, 2:30-3:45 PM Seminar: The Science of Alcohol Safety for Drinkers & Servers - Brian D. Hoefling, 2:30-3:45 PM Seminar: Wanna Do My Bar Program? – The Ins & Outs of Consulting - Tom Richter & Zack Peas, 3-4:15 PM Seminar: Go Ahead, Play with Your Whiskey! - Heather Greene, 3:15-4:30 PM Seminar: Selections from The Vault: 20 Years of Compass Box Whisky - Kerrin Egalka, 3-4:15 PM

▪ Saturday, January 18 ▪ Headliner Event: Tasting Suites - 12-4:00 PM Headliner Event: Cocktails Under the Big Top, 7:30-11:00 PM Seminar: Spirits Can Save The Rainforest: The Journey from Jungle to Bottle - Luke McKinley, 10:30-11:45 AM Seminar: Somos Maiz y Agave - Ulises Torrentera, Christopher Chamberlain & Isidoro Guindi, 10:30-11:45 AM Seminar: The Blind Date - Samara Rivers & Armond Davis, 11 AM-12:15 PM Seminar: Jamaican Rum & Sugar: 1655 to the Present - Alexander Kong & Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, 11 AM-12:15 AM Seminar: Community, Quality & Sustainability in Mezcal - Gilbert Marquez, 11 AM-12:15 AM Seminar: Is the Terroir in Your Cocktail? - William Scanlan, Ed Hamilton, & Dale Rights, 12:30-1:45 PM Seminar: Mid-Century Survivors, or Whatever Happened to the Steakhouse Cocktail? - Brian D. Hoefling, 3-4 :15 PM Seminar: Guardians of Rum - Richard Seale & Bailey Pryor, 1-2:15 PM Seminar: Back to the Future: What We’ll Be Drinking and How We’ll Be Drinking It – 2020 & Beyond! - Claire Bertin-Lang, 1-2:15 PM Seminar: Foraged in the Wild – Texas Terroir - David Alan & Matthew Moody, 2-3:15 PM Seminar: Soup du Jour – Drink Your Food and Eat Your Booze - Shaun Traxler & Chef John Russ, 2:30-3:45 PM Seminar: Caribbean Elixirs - Kiowa Bryan & Alexander Kong 2:30-3:45 PM Seminar: Cigars & Spirits, Greg Mays, TBA Seminar: Demystifying CBD - Jeff Donahue & Wade McElroy, 3-4:15 PM Seminar: Bourbon & Good Ole Texas BBQ - Daniel Barnes, 3:30-4:45 PM Tickets and a full schedule with descriptions are available on the event website, sacocktailconference.com.

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THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

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23

edible destination

Three chefs from San Antonio go on a quest to Osaka. (Photo by H. Von Bargen)

THREE SAN ANTONIO CHEFS’ OSAKA STREET FOOD AND NOODLE QUEST

BY HINNERK VON BARGEN

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edible San Antonio

THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

T

oday’s ease of long-distance communication has turned the world into a village. Getting or staying in touch with loved ones, friends or associates across the globe has never been easier.

Living in South Africa during the early nineties, conditions were quite different – calling home cost a fortune and required planning. Oh yes, times have changed drastically, and these changes helped facilitate a marvelous culinary trip.

Earlier this year, I received an email from my very dear friend and former colleague Béla Rieck, who accepted a position as executive chef at the Swissôtel in Osaka, Japan. He was planning culinary programming and action weeks for the hotel’s restaurant. Given my expertise on international street food and my wife, Ming’s experience (Ming’s Thing and Ming’s Noodle Bar), he proposed introducing us to Osaka’s gastronomic scene as a notable culinary couple with a street food and noodle promotion.

Thanks again to today’s technology, after conference calls and online meetings, we made it to Osaka this past summer.

We were warmly welcomed with all the essence of Japanese hospitality. At the hotel, a beautiful room with a fruit basket, a bottle of sake and a breathtaking sugar carving was waiting for us.

Osaka, in the Kansai region of Japan, is one of the largest cities in the world with a population of more than 20 million people. The modern city has ancient roots, the home of Shitennō-ji, Japan’s first and oldest Buddhist Temple, and the headquarters of Panasonic, Sharp and the Osaka Securities Exchange.

Dotonbori Ebisu Bridge in Osaka (Photo courtesy JNTO)

Chef Hinnerk and Chef Ming headlined special culinary programming at the Swissôtel Nankai Osaka. (Photo courtesy)

Osaka Castle (Photo courtesy JNTO)

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Takoyaki (Photo courtesy JNTO)

Typical izakaya yakitori (Photo courtesy JNTO)

“Osaka is full of fun-loving people who will do whatever they can to make visitors feel welcome.”

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Our first day in Osaka was dedicated to getting acclimated and filling our bellies with the most delicious foods and local cuisine. Flavorful ramen, freshly cooked takoyaki (round little pancake balls filled with octopus) and Japanese curries kicked off our gustatory adventure. The jetlag and 14-hour time difference blur the memories of the first day somewhat – but nothing can blur how delicious the food was.

The next day, we prepared to present the week-and-a-half long street food and noodle program. Most of our time was spent getting to know the kitchen and familiarizing the chefs with the foreign ingredients – we actually brought a cupboard full of items hard to come by in Osaka. With only two days to complete all the prep and mise en place for a whole restaurant menu and a live action station, we were grateful that David Escamilla, chef at Ming’s Thing and Ming’s Noodle Bar, agreed to join us on our trip. The chefs and servers at the restaurant assigned to assist were most impressive. Despite a notorious staff shortage, they went out of their way to help us get everything accomplished.

We served about 150 to 200 guests every day. Chef Ming and Chef David ran the Ming’s Thing live action station with all her San Antonio favorites like Sloopy, Pork Belly Buns and Ming’s Thing Summer Noodles, Sichuan Noodles and Ma-La

THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

Noodles. At first, it was a bit unnerving – with the highest per head consumption of noodles worldwide in Japan, there might be experts with high expectations among our guests. My contribution focused on international street food favorites from my book like Mexican Elote, German Schaschlik, Malaysian Spicy Fried Fish, Oaxacan Fried Quesadillas and good ole’ American Corn Dogs among many others.

With everything running smoothly, we had a little more time to enjoy Osaka.

DINING OUT IN OSAKA

Staying right in the heart of the city, we realized quickly that Osaka is full of fun-loving people who will do whatever they can to make visitors feel welcome. In a very relaxed, clean and safe environment, we especially enjoyed a number of great meals in the local “izakayas.” These are small, often less than 10 seats, tapas-type restaurant-bars with a chef behind the counter preparing the most amazing simple meals.

We managed to enjoy all the famous regional cuisine from the okonomiyaki (pan-fried batter cakes) to the takoyaki (octopus in fried batter), the udon (noodles) and traditional oshizushi (pressed sushi), which will make it difficult to enjoy sushi anywhere else. We have fond memories of the curry places, serving breaded pork or chicken cutlets on a bed of rice or noodles smothered in a curry gravy, topped with cheese and broiled with a blow torch. As un-Japanese as this may sound, it’s one of the most popular lunch dishes in Japan.

Another popular way to eat in Osaka is Japanese barbecue.

Bearing little resemblance to what we know as barbecue in Texas, it consists of thinly sliced or diced pieces of meat, seafood or vegetable cooked quickly on a grill. It often includes organ meat and pig’s feet.

Fine dining in Japan celebrates food as true art. In high-end teppanyaki restaurants, often called “hibachi” in the U.S., a true

Izakaya kara-age (Photo courtesy JNTO)

culinary master will cook a memorable meal for you without clanking knives on the griddle or a burning onion tower. True artists at work without any fluff.

Japan is a country full of contrasts. People are very disciplined with lots of etiquette rules on how to behave, and often with a great sense of pride for their work. But at night, the party begins – we enjoyed many great conversations with locals while sitting with a beer in front of a convenience store. Japan is one of the most advanced countries in the world, yet the preferred method of payment is cash.

We returned home with a great sense of gratitude, a little humility, countless memories, newly found friends and the desire to go back as soon as we can.

Editor’s note ~ Chef Hinnerk Von Bargen is Professor of Culinary Arts at the Culinary Institute of America-San Antonio. To learn more about international street foods, pick up a copy of his new book “Street Foods,” available now at local bookstores or on Amazon.com.

Izakaya yakitori on the grill (Photo courtesy JNTO) ediblesanantonio.com

27

GUIDE TO SAN ANTONIO FARMERS MARKETS MOBILE MARKET

Alamo Ranch Farmers Market 210-446-0099 www.alamoranchfarm.market Call or visit website for information

TUESDAY

San Antonio Farmers Market Olmos Basin 100 Jackson Keller Road 8 a.m – 1 p.m.

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

Pearl Night Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 4 p.m. – 8 p.m.

1st Thurs of month

FRIDAY

Kerrville Farmers Market Downtown 529 Water Street Kerrville, TX 3 p.m. – 6 p.m.

Alamo Heights Farmers Market Alamo Quarry Market 255 E. Basse Road 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Legacy Farmers Market 16101 Henderson Pass (Behind the YMCA) 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Legacy Farmers Market 16101 Henderson Pass (Behind the YMCA) 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

MarketPlace at Old Town Helotes 14391 Riggs Road Helotes, TX 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.

1st Sat of month

Live Oak Farmers Market 8151 Pat Booker Road (In front of Starbucks) 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

1905 Farmers Market Kendall County Fairgrounds 1307 River Road Boerne, TX 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

San Antonio Farmers Market St. Matthews Recreation Center 11121 Wurzbach Road 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Dripping Springs Farmers Market Veterans Memorial Park Hwy 290 & RR 12 Dripping Springs, TX 3 p.m. – 6 p.m

SATURDAY

Pearl Farmers Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Deerfield Farmers Market 16607 Huebner Road 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

San Antonio Farmers Market Olmos Basin 100 Jackson Keller Road 8 a.m. – 1 p.m

San Antonio Farmers Market Leon Valley Community Center 6427 Evers Road 8 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Semmes Library Farmers Market Semmes Library (Northeast) 15060 Judson Road 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

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Backyard Market 13838 Jones Maltsberger Road 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.

SUNDAY

Goliad Market Days 231 S. Market Street Goliad, TX 9 a.m. – 4 p.m 2nd Sat of month

New Braunfels Farmers Market 186 S. Castell Avenue New Braunfels, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Four Seasons Market Huebner Oaks Shopping Center 11745 IH-10 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.

THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

New Braunfels Farmers Market 186 S. Castell Avenue New Braunfels, TX 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Pearl Farmers Market Pearl Brewery 312 Pearl Parkway 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

the coffee lady LINDA BREWSTER

Learn all about coffee at the San Antonio Coffee Festival on January 4. (Photo courtesy)

CELEBRATION FOR COFFEE LOVERS

Linda Brewster knows coffee – the passionate coffee enthusiast founded the San Antonio Coffee Festival. Thanks to San Antonio’s growing number of outstanding local coffee roasters, brewers and coffeehouses, Ms. Brewster shares her insights on SA’s local coffee culture in this column.

The award-winning San Antonio Coffee Festival returns to La Villita Historic Arts Village to celebrate everything coffee on Saturday, January 4. Save the date and help shape the evolution of specialty coffee here in San Antonio.

The San Antonio Coffee Festival, now in its 8th year, is one of 41 global coffee events to be recognized and included on CoffeeSphere’s list of prestigious Coffee Festivals for Globetrotting Coffee Lovers.

The one-day, family-friendly celebration is open to everyone. Starting at 10 a.m. on Saturday, Jan 4, more than 25 local coffee roasters and cafes will present more than 80 different locally-roasted coffees from all over the globe, which will be available for tasting via the Specialty Coffee Tasting Flight. Attendees will be delightfully challenged to choose four tastes per flight from the venerable line-up while they meet the artisans who are fueling San Antonio’s coffee roasting and brewing industry.

The hallmark of the festival is the “Specialty Coffee Tasting Flight.” Just like a wine or beer tasting, guests at the San Antonio Coffee Festival get to enjoy tasting coffee beans from around the world. Ethiopia, Uganda, Java, Sumatra, Brazil, El Salvador and Honduras will all be represented.

A sample of the many coffees to be featured in 2020 includes Springtown Roaster’s Hill Country Cup. Inspired by a trip to the Tarrazu region of Costa Rica, this local roaster created a mouthwatering blend of Costa Rica Hot Volcanic Spring washed beans with a bit of Ethiopia Natural processed beans. Enjoy the experience of sweet berries, chocolate and cooking spices in each cup during this festive winter season. Or savor Epic Coffee Co.’s Uganda Manaf-

wa coffee, made with beans from the Manafwa region on Mount Elgon, an extinct volcano across the border of Uganda and Kenya.

This special flavor profile includes notes of dark chocolate, dried apricot and almond.

Much of the specialty coffee imported to Texas flows through Houston, one of the top 10 largest ports importing coffee. Of course, coffee beans don’t actually grow in the continental United States. Only Hawaii and Puerto Rico are in the coffee belt, which includes the area around the equator from Central America, through Africa and past Indonesia. How amazing that we can gather to appreciate all the work that goes into bringing this coffee to us!

The San Antonio Coffee Festival is the ideal place to explore new coffee roasters and make connections. Found your favorite new coffee? You’ll be able to take it home with you as the opportunity to purchase packages for home brewing is available.

San Antonio is definitely buying more specialty coffee than ever before, and the momentum is accelerating. It’s a delight to see new cafés featuring locally roasted beans opening across the city.

Mobile coffee vehicles are also on the rise, like Olla Express Café, which has a new mobile coffee van, specializing in Café de Olla, a traditional Mexican beverage made with ground coffee, cinnamon and piloncillo.

Enjoy the coffee workshops, visiting artists with coffee-themed artworks, the artisan shops of La Villita and lots of delicious food on-site. From coffee beer to three stages of live music, the San Antonio Coffee Festival is an event not to be missed!

Visit SanAntonioCoffeeFestival.com to learn more and buy tickets. Advance tickets for the 2020 Festival start at $8 for a Tasting Flight, and VIP tickets, which include early entry (9 a.m.), the commemorative San Antonio Coffee Festival coffee mug, a Specialty Coffee Tasting Flight (5 tastings) and exclusive access to specialty coffee exhibitors are available for $22. All ticket holders have free access to the coffee workshops. See you there! ediblesanantonio.com

29

feeding hope

SAFB President and CEO Eric Cooper shares SA Food Bank fresh veggies. (Photo courtesy)

FEEDING HOPE IN A NEW DECADE

BY MICHAEL GUERRA With a new year and a new decade upon us, I have been reflecting on the scope and challenge of our work to truly nourish those who struggle to set their tables with the ingredients for a healthy and active life.

We are definitely not the same community we were ten years ago.

A decade ago, we focused on canned goods to solve hunger. Today, we focus on fresh produce and “foods to encourage” healthy eating when feeding the line. In the next decade, our work with the community will continue to focus on meeting the need today, but it will also see us double-down on efforts to get at the root causes, to work “upstream” on poverty and go even deeper on shortening the line strategies.

The San Antonio Food Bank’s President and CEO, Eric Cooper, recently wrote about the work ahead. I share his thoughts here in the hope that his vision will encourage us to engage in our own unique ways.

Let’s add a background to Eric Cooper’s comment below.

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This past November, I stood in a parking lot where our staff and a group of corporate volunteers were giving away turkeys and holiday food boxes for Thanksgiving. I could smell the exhaust from a car in the line that looked like it was about to break down before the volunteers could load it. The line of cars wrapped around the parking lot and seemed to go on forever. People were driving up and walking up. People seemed a little anxious. They were worried we would run out of turkeys or food.

Another person joined the line, a woman who had walked up.

She had taken VIA to get to the distribution. She was apologizing that she was late, she had just gotten off work and was worried she wouldn’t make it. There was a gentleman on a mobility scooter coming across the parking lot to join the line. He shared he was late getting his grandkids off to school. He said his disability check from the Military only went so far and was grateful we were there.

As he got his turkey he shouted, “Happy Thanksgiving!”

As I watched this line grow, my mind went to the recent report from the U.S. Census Bureau that ranked San Antonio with the

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highest rate of poverty [of the largest 25 cities] in the nation.

It was the 2018 American Community Survey which tracks state and local data on things like poverty, income, and health insurance. San Antonio’s poverty rate increased by 0.9 percentage points since 2017. Which means 15.4 percent, or 381,584 residents of the San Antonio and New Braunfels Metropolitan Area, live below the poverty line. The data just confirmed what we know from our lines. What is changing is that we used to see people that were unemployed. Now, almost everyone has a job, but they just don’t make enough.

It is painful to admit that San Antonio is number 1 in the number of people living in poverty. Combine low wages, skyrocketing healthcare costs and a lack of aordable housing – and my food line continues to get longer.

Still standing in a parking lot with people that needed nourishment, I prayed we would have enough. The line and the food supply were both shrinking. In the end, the need that day was bigger than our supply. I listened as the sta and volunteers told the families about our other distribution locations.

The families asked, “Will we get a turkey?� The volunteers’ response was, “I am sure you will...� No promises given, but filled with hope that someone will come through with a donation.

Editor’s note: Mr. Michael Guerra of the San Antonio Food Bank writes the Feeding Hope column in every issue of Edible San Antonio. His goal is to spotlight the food economy from different perspectives, particularly that of those in need, inspiring us all to be Hunger Fighters.Â

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5800 BROADWAY, STE 101 | SAN ANTONIO, TX 78209 210.826.1993 @FROSTEDHOME â&#x20AC;˘ #FROSTEDHOME ediblesanantonio.com

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latin roots

THE ROOTS OF ROPA VIEJA The thickly forested mountain range of the Sierra Maestra, from where Castro and his revolutionaries led guerrilla attacks against Batista’s forces for two years.

Castro biographer Robert E. Quirk noted that there was “no better place to hide” in all the island. (Photo by Anagoria)

ED, THE CUBAN EXILE

BY KRISTOFFER LEYTON

I

t’s 1950 and Edilberto Dager (Ed) wakes up to the sound of a cool breeze on a warm sunny day and the hum of a new Chevrolet Bel Air going down the street. The day will be devoted to the cane fields he proudly produced for years. Years later, as the sun sets on a hard day in the fields, he sits at a table to eat a beautiful plate of Ropa Vieja.

In 1953, Fulgencio Batista y Zaldívar, a military officer in Cuba who worked his way up the ranks, fashioned a coup and took over as president, then dictator, of the island country. Young Fidel Castro, just graduated from university, vowed to stop Batista and his reign of Cuba. Cuban youth were excited about the changes and took to the streets to protest Batista and his horrible ways.

They ran down the streets throwing rocks at the police and flipping military vehicles. Ed skipped school to run with the youthful protestors, but instead of rioting and vandalizing, he decided to 32

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go to the corner store and get a Coca-Cola. While waiting in line to pay for his soda, something heavy and pointy prodded his back. The police were looking for easy prey and arrested him at gunpoint.

On the day of the trial, as he was just 17 years old, the charges against him were dropped.

Meanwhile, Fidel built a following and an army of young people who believed change was necessary for their country. They joined him in the mountains of Cuba where he fed them and took care of them. In January 1959, Batista fled to the Dominican Republic and Fidel and his young army hiked down the mountain and walked to the center of Havana, where he named himself Prime Minister of Cuba.

Everything was fine until about 5 months later. Ed, now 23, watched as farmers and young people paraded down the streets with arms in their hands. A neighbor warned Ed about Fidel’s communistic tendencies

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tendencies and advised him to tell his father to sell all his properties, take his money and move the family to the United States.

Ed shared the neighbor’s warning with his father … but less than a month later, Fidel had already implemented his revolutionary laws, taking over all privately-owned land and freezing all bank accounts. It was at that moment Ed decided to get his degree in engineering.

While Ed was in his third year, Fidel ruled that all students must take a mandatory course on communism and socialism. The students protested. Ed was home that weekend, so he couldn’t participate in the protests, but wrote a letter to the university saying he agreed with the students and their right to education without indoctrination. The school expelled him and 900 students, forcing him to take a job at a nickel plant in Moa, Cuba working for Che Guevarra.

Within a couple of years, Ed fell in love, married and had two children. Soon he noticed dwindling supplies at the grocery stores, then empty shelves. Services had come to a standstill – the hospitals had no medicine and the people were suffering.

Remembering his old neighbor’s warning, Ed planned to leave the country with his family to try and give them a better future.

But a whistleblower turned him in and before they could get out of the country, 15 officers approached Ed at work and questioned him about his motives.

When he confessed that he really did plan to leave the country, they fired him, leaving him with nothing. By the time he got home, he found his wife and two daughters in the house with everything torn apart and broken. The officers had paid a visit to his home to find evidence to put him away, but found nothing.

Cuban officials agreed to let them leave the country after he paid his due – they put him to back-breaking work in the cane fields for five long years.

In the fields, food was scarce and workers had to fend for themselves, eating coconuts they would find and sometimes even grass.

Family visits were limited to just one weekend after every 45 days of continuous work. After he completed his “sentence,” Cuban officials allowed him to leave with his family with only the clothes on their backs and two shirts and pants. They were forced to sign over all their possessions to the government.

Things were so bad then that ropa vieja, which means old clothes, became a popular recipe that incorporated torn up old mops or rags to dip in beef broth and boil with tomatoes.

It had become, unofficially, the national dish.

Ed is my grandfather. After a long journey, they thrived, became US citizens and created a happy and successful life here – where they could cook up a much more fortifying recipe for Ropa Vieja.

Enjoy!

RECIPE: ROPA VIEJA WITH SHREDDED BEEF Adapted from the recipe by Three Guys from Miami Yield: 6-8 servings Enjoy this fork-tender beef infused with Caribbean flavor.

INGREDIENTS 4 pounds chuck or arm roast (well marbled) 2 tablespoons olive oil (for browning) 1/3 cup flour (to dust meat) 1 green pepper, cut into chunks 1 onion, sliced 5 cloves garlic, chopped FOR THE SAUCE 2 onions, chopped 4 cloves garlic, mashed with 1 teaspoon salt 2 green peppers, chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil (for sautéing) 4 ounces tomato paste 1 32 oz can crushed tomatoes 2 tablespoons ground cumin 1 cup red wine 1 bay leaf Salt and black pepper to taste DIRECTIONS Do not trim excess fat from the meat before cooking! Remove fat when shredding cooked beef.

Ropa Vieja (shredded flank steak in a tomato sauce base) served with black beans and yellow rice. (Photo by Averette)

Salt and pepper meat, then lightly dust with flour. Brown meat in oil in a large Dutch oven. Add enough water to surround the meat, but NOT to cover it. Add chunked green pepper, sliced onion and garlic. Simmer, covered, until meat is fork tender (about two hours). Add water as necessary to keep from burning. Remove from heat and cool. Set aside vegetables to serve on the side. Shred the meat.

Sauté onions, garlic and green pepper in oil in the same pan you cooked the meat in until limp. Add tomato paste, crushed tomatoes, cumin, red wine and bay leaf. Salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook on low for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove bay leaf and serve with meat over rice.

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food for the soul

THE LANGUAGE OF

FOOD

Fideo Loco prepared and photographed by Morgan Villegas.

BY DAVE TERRAZAS AND MORGAN VILLEGAS Editor’s Note: Chef Dave Terrazas, a regular contributor to Edible San Antonio, just embarked on a new adventure with Mercy Chefs.

In this new column, Food for the Soul, he’ll share the more about the great works accomplished by Mercy Chefs, how our own local chefs contribute to that effort and what they hope to accomplish.

I

f you like dining out, visiting the farmers markets, or stopping by one of the many food festivals our city hosts throughout the year, then you’ve likely seen and eaten some amazing food. It’s as if fresh ingredients and a sauté pan go together like ink in a pen, imbued with messages and shared by those preparing the food.

Many are chefs, some humbly call themselves cooks (we’re all cooks), and some just get together to cook with purpose. The Texas Folklife Festival would be an example of the latter, where ethnic groups from across the state cook and share their native delicacies.

But it’s the home cooks who carry on our culinary traditions with familiar meals that provide comfort, rooted in love and a shared history. Echoing the convergence of our collective past,

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preparing and eating a homecooked meal is a soulful experience.

Each ingredient on the plate is a deliciously constructed sentence, and each meal tells a story of time and place, emotion and experience.

If food speaks to us – what is the story?

There are as many messages as plates being served, and a wellmade dish, regardless of niche and level of sophistication, seems to have ethereal origins. Whether the meal is a sophisticated work of art prepared by a local chef or a warm bowl of fideo prepared by your abuela, the language of food is universal.

Fideo is probably one of the most recognizable comfort foods in our area, and “Fideo Loco” is definitely the San Antonio version of the classic. The first written recipes for fideo go back to the 1700s, about as old as San Antonio itself – but the ingredients have strong European origins.

And the ingredients tell the story: from the chicken broth (chickens were domesticated in Southeast Asia around 6,000 years ago and came over with the Spanish centuries ago) to the tomato (a new world fruit that crossed the Atlantic into Europe before it

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was identified as food and not poison), Europe is well represented.

Consider the pasta. Italian contributions to Mexican, and even Tex-Mex cuisine, are often overlooked. It turns out Texas has way more than six flags behind it. The noodles we savor in fideo are one such Italian culinary contribution. But pasta is not indigenous to Italy. You can thank the Chinese for noodles. So, fideo has an important bit of Asia in the bowl, as well.

Fideo Loco, certainly a Tex-Mex creation, often includes beans and ground beef, as well.

Beans are a staple food for people in the Americas even today – historically and culturally as important as maize to the indigenous people of Mexico.

Beef, another gift to the Americas from Spain, was introduced by none other than Christopher Columbus in 1493 when he brought cattle to the island of Santa Dominica. The first cattle in Texas were herded in two hundred years later in 1690 via Mexico, which itself was two hundred years old before the chili queens took over the plazas of San Antonio.

And that’s how the rich history of San Antonians is encoded in the message of Fideo Loco. If you feel aligned with the culture of

old San Antonio, consider that your soul feels a part of the great spirit of a glorious city in its third century.

We posit that most who cook put their souls into the work – and that soulful connection delivers love, hope, culture, connection and remembrance in every bite.

Ultimately, the esprit de corps of Mercy Chefs drives them to do the same.

Team members cook recipes our recipients know and love.

During disasters, the message in our food conveys that we recognize the dignity of those we serve. Familiar dishes, maybe as simple as a bowl of well-made grits (as was the case in the Bahamas after Hurricane Dorian), underscores that while the house may be gone, culture, common identity and shared history remains intact and secure.

That understanding helps those we serve build individual and community resiliency.

Food connects us to our past, our culture and our very origins as humans. Food reassures with a story of time and place, an expression of spirit, and the celebration of life itself. Food is language – the language of love.

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Culinary magic at Restaurant Gwendolyn (Photo courtesy)

THE LOCAL DINING GUIDE

Welcome to our newest section, the Edible San Antonio Local Dining Guide.

Special thanks to our growing list of sponsors, all local and independently owned establishments that support Edible SA’s mission. Restaurants are selected for their commitment to using local and seasonal ingredients as much as possible and for their partnerships with local farmers and food artisans. Enjoy!

CREATIVE COCKTAILS DELICIOUS FARE FROM AROUND THE WORLD

BY CHEF LISA ASTORGA WATEL HAPPY HOUR | TUE–FRI 5-7 PM DINNER | TUE–THU 5-10 PM | FRI–SAT 5-11 PM BRUNCH | SAT 11-2 PM | SUN 11-3 PM

HAPPY HOUR | MON–FRI 4-6 PM DINNER DAILY AT 4 PM | SUNDAY BRUNCH 11-2 PM

1012 S Presa St, SATX 78210 210.532.2551 | biterestaurantsa.com

2720 McCullough Ave, SATX 78212 210.320.2261 | barbarosanantonio.com

6106 Broadway, SATX 78209 210.245.8156 | bistr09.com

AT BIG TEX

PATIO BAR & CLUB

MEXICO INSPIRED BURGERS MONDAY – THURSDAY 11 AM – 10 PM FRIDAY & SATURDAY 11 AM – 11 PM SUNDAY 11 AM – 8 PM 403 Blue Star, SATX 78204 210.635.0016 | burgerteca.com

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CLASSIC FRENCH BRASSERIE IN THE HEART OF ALAMO HEIGHTS LED BY CHEF DAMIEN WATEL & CHEF LISA ASTORGA WATEL

NEIGHBORHOOD PIZZA AND CRAFT COCKTAIL BAR LUNCH | DINNER | WEEKEND BRUNCH LATE NIGHT DINING HAPPY HOUR 3 PM TO 6 PM EVERY DAY PIZZA MONDAY | $10 PIZZAS OPEN SEVEN DAYS

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HAPPY HOUR DAILY 4-8 PM $5 CLASSICS | $4 FROZENS | $3 WELLS | $2 BEERS

FAMILY-OWNED NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANT SERVING UP SEASONAL SOUTHERN AND AMERICAN EATS IN A CASUAL SETTING

21+ | NEVER A COVER

LUNCH | TUE–FRI 11:30-2 PM DINNER | TUE–THU 5-9 PM | FRI–SAT 5-10 PM

2410 N St Mary’s St, SATX 78212 210.885.3925 | rumblesatx.com

2195 NW Military Hwy, SATX 78213 210.503.5121 | clementine-sa.com

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BEYOND JUST CAJUN OR CREOLE THEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MORE TO NEW ORLEANS CUISINE WELCOME TO THE COOKHOUSE OPEN TUEâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;SAT 5-10 PM HAPPY HOUR TUEâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;FRI 5-7 PM RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED LAISSEZ LES BON TEMPS ROULER!

BEST FRENCH RESTAURANT 2017 & 2018 ASIAN FUSION | HAPPY HOUR | TAPAS & PIZZA BAR LOCALLY OWNED | LOCALLY SOURCED CATERING

AUTHENTIC EUROPEAN RESTAURANT DUCK | PORK | GOULASH | SCHNITZELS | APPLE STRUDEL CZECH WINES | PILSNER URQUELL BEER KOLACHE EGGS BENEDICT BREAKFAST AND LUNCH DAILY DINNER WEDNESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY

720 E Mistletoe Ave, SATX 78212 210.320.8211 | cookhouserestaurant.com

14439 NW Military Hwy #100, SATX 78231 210.888.1500 | fredericksbistro.com

518 River Road, Boerne TX 78006 830.331.1368 | littlegretel.com

RAMEN NOODLE SHOP AND IZAKAYA

Old World Methods, Extraordinary Results Locally Sourced, Sustainably Prepared

MONDAY â&#x20AC;&#x201C; THURSDAY 11 AM-10 PM FRIDAY 11 AM-11 PM SATURDAY 12 PM-11 PM

Dinner | Tueâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thur 5:30-9 PM | Friâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat 5:30-10 PM Reservations Recommended

152 E Pecan St #102, SATX 78205 210.444.0702 | kimurasa.com

152 E Pecan St #100, SATX 78205 210.222.1849 | restaurantgwendolyn.com

SAN ANTONIOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PREMIER ROOFTOP BAR ROOFTOP OASIS | SOARING CITY VIEWS COFFEE BAR | CRAFT COCKTAILS BREAKFAST | HORS Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OEUVRES OPEN SEVEN DAYS 102 9th St Suite 400, SATX 78215 210.340.9880 | paramourbar.com

GLUTEN FREE | VEGAN KETO-FRIENDLY | AYURVEDIC

OPEN DAILY 11 AM TO 3 PM BRUNCH SATURDAY & SUNDAY ACROSS FROM THE TOBIN CENTER

AN ACTIVE CLASSROOM AT THE CIA DISCOVER OUR MENU INSPIRED BY GLOBAL CUISINES

DOG-FRIENDLY PATIO | OPEN SEATING

TUESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 5:30 PM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 8 PM

WE ARE EXCITED TO SHARE OUR CULTURE AND HOMETOWN EATS WITH OUR BELOVED SA COMMUNITY COOK-TO-ORDER MENU FOR SHARING SPICY AND NON-SPICY OFFERINGS OPEN SEVEN DAYS | LUNCH AND DINNER

106 Auditorium Circle, SATX 78205 210.802.1860 | pharmtable.com

200 E Grayson St #117, SATX 78215 210.554.6484 | savorcia.com

3505 Wurzbach Rd #102, SATX 78238 210.509.9999 | facebook.com/sichuaneats

The seasonal menu at Bite often includes delicious soup.

(Photo by Jessica Geisey) ediblesanantonio.com

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mimi’s heirloom recipes

BITTERBALLEN STORY, RECIPE AND PHOTOS BY MIMI FAUBERT This quintessential foodie is a Food Hero at our local Central Market. Ms. Faubert is not professionally trained – she is one of those rare talents with a superior palate and natural skills. You’ll typically find her in a kitchen, whipping up something extraordinary at home for her family or at work. And her tips, stories and recipes are always spot-on.

How did you ring in the New Year back in 2007?

Mine was stellar. My husband, kids (only two back then) and I drove out to Richmond to be with close friends and their family.

Set on enclosed acres, there was freedom on the property for kids and adults alike to roam safely.

As the night progressed, fireworks lit up the sky, drinks got drunk and magical food appeared. My friend Kirsten’s mother prepared “bitterballen.” Standing in a space between the kitchen

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door and the outdoor bar, I remember the platter of fried meatball-looking things entering our circle of people as we chatted and laughed. Wisps of steam caught the light in the chilled air, revealing the golden-brown orbs, freshly fried and hot.

As I bit into one, I realized this was not a meatball. Instead, it was like having the sweetest, fairytale grandma one can imagine secretly feed you a bite of delicious, meaty gravy from the pot on the stove before the rest of the family is told supper is ready – comfort food perfection.

Typically, I am prone to figuring out what makes me love a new food and will launch a no-holds-barred recon mission to learn about it. But I was in such good company and having a genuinely great, care-free time that I mentally filed the deliciousness away. Since then, I’ve reflected on them nearly every year, unable to remember what they were called. Kirsten and her family are

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from Holland and all I could remember was that she said it was a traditional food her mom liked to make every Oud en Nieuw.

That was it.

Time passed and recently, talking to one of my favorite regulars at work, that bit of New Year came up. Still unable to remember the name, I described it. We ended up in a fun moment of food “spark joy”– he knew exactly what I was talking about. Days later, he handed me a copy of a bitterballen recipe from one of his cookbooks.

This brings me to a side note correlating with the New Year.

Many people take advantage of a new calendar year to reboot, so to speak, aspects of their lives. I have duplicitous genetics that cause me to be both dynamic and a procrastinator. Let’s not go into too many details, but I have resolved to fix the procrastination side (ba-boom cha!). I had this recipe with the name in my hands, then a few years pass without making any attempt to make it. Darn it!

Where is my recipe? What is it called? I need to figure it out,

make it, enjoy it and share it. I consulted the great and mighty internet we all know and love with a feeble word search like “Dutch meat croquette New Year ball.” Success. Elation. Bitterballen!

Serving bitterballen for the New Year totally makes sense as it is a typical Dutch snack to have with drinks. Bitter for the Dutch Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Jenever, a juniper-infused grain alcohol referred to as “bittertje” and ballen for the plural of its shape.

Booze or no booze, enjoy with good friends and do not kid yourself that a single bitterball will do, because you will certainly eat quite a few bitterballen!

The concept is simple and wonderfully accommodating. The thickened meaty sauce can be adjusted to suit most palates. Vegan it up. Make it gluten-free. Integrate your favorite cheese. Get crafty. Just make sure the chilled sauce mixture is thick and firm enough to shape as if it were cookie dough. Depending on your version of bite size, the following recipe should make a couple of dozen and can easily be doubled or tripled. &FU [F

RECIPE ~ BITTERBALLEN INGREDIENTS 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ cup flour ½ small yellow or white onion, finely chopped 1 cup beef broth, warmed ½ pound cooked ground beef or slow-cooked beef (like a chuck roast), shredded & finely chopped 1 teaspoon mustard powder (optional) A pinch of fresh grated nutmeg Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons fresh, chopped parsley 2-3 eggs, whisked well Flour, breadcrumbs and oil for frying DIRECTIONS Over medium/medium-high heat, melt the stick of butter in a large sauté pan with the chopped onion. Season with a bit of salt and cook until the onion softens and begins to turn a bit golden.

Stir in the flour, nutmeg, mustard powder (if using) and continue to cook the roux for about 1-2 minutes.

Slowly, stir in the broth. As it becomes smooth, it will begin to get thick.

Stir in the beef. Taste and add additional seasoning if needed.

Continue to stir and cook a few more minutes until it looks like really thick paste.

Mix in the parsley before spreading out on a sheet pan in an even layer, which will help it cool.

Once cooled, cover and refrigerate until well chilled.

(At this point, you can keep it in a storage container in the fridge up to two days.)

Use a spoon or a 1-ounce squeeze disher (looks like a tiny ice cream scoop) to form into small golf ball-size shapes.

Dust with flour, dip in the beaten egg, then coat in breadcrumbs, gently pressing breadcrumbs into each ball. Arrange on a clean tray or platter.

Preheat the oil over medium-high heat (375°F) and cook the bitterballen in batches until golden brown. Drain on paper towels as they are cooked.

Plate with a side of mustard for dipping and serve hot. Enjoy!

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ediblelife destination ranch

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LONELY STRAY COW & WIRE GAP WOES STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARCY EPPERSON

Marcy Epperson lives with her family near Rocksprings where they raise grass finished beef, sheep, goats and horses. See what’s going on at the ranch on Instagram @heritagebeef or @marcy_epperson and follow on Facebook @Heritage Beef to learn more about ranch life.

R

ecently, we had a cow stray into the wrong pasture.

No one is particularly sure how this happened – she could have jumped the fence, someone could have left a gate open, or (an embarrassment to a rancher), we missed her when rotating the cattle from that pasture. ¿Quién sabe? It really didn’t matter, the point was she was in the wrong pasture and it had to be rectified, sooner rather than later.

So, one late afternoon, I saddled my new young bay roan mare in the pale waning light only December offers and headed south.

My first task was to see if I could find her, and second, get her moved into the next pasture with the rest of her herd.

After a short sweep through the side of the pasture closest to where she should have been, I spotted her grazing peacefully, all alone, with not a care in the world. The sun was dipping behind the tree line and I knew it was clearly a one-shot opportunity.

If you’ve ever been around range cows, you know not only do they have an aversion to being around people, but they often hide in the brush watching until the humans leave. These are not the hand-fed, cow-cake loving bovid pets that come when called. This darling took one look at me and with a huff only a cow can make, decided to depart, heading to the brush in a brisk saliva-stringing trot.

This was definitely not off to a good start, but the saving grace was that she was heading where she needed to go, so I trotted with enough distance to give her respect yet offer gentle nudges to go toward the gate.

But she didn’t! In spite of my attempt at polite, gentle low-stress handling, she galloped straight through the brush to the fence.

Now, when there is a herd and a crew, “keeping them on the fence” is often the best option for controlling movement of livestock because the fence creates a barrier on one side and their

movement is controlled from the other. I tried to gently ease her along the fence to the gate, but this cow had brush smarts and knew the fence was bad business for her freedom.

In the brush along the fence, poof, just like that, I was hung up in a traffic jam (so to speak) of trees I couldn’t ride or see through.

While navigating around and through, she quickly slipped back into the pasture. The sun was setting, and I still had over a mile ride back to the house. My one shot disappeared with her lingering trail of dust.

Almost as bad as losing the cow was the wire gap I still had to shut. It closes into the corner of three other fences – all electric, and the top wire of this gap is 4-barb, exponentially more scraping and poking to the poor soul opening or closing it. I struggled, pulled and got it all back together, then rode back home in a frump, because no one likes to be outwitted by a cow.

Chilly and starving, I remembered I left a pot of easy chili simmering on the stove with instructions for anyone in the house to check on it.

Walking into the house after unsaddling was wonderful. The scent of warm, fragrant, bubbling chili was a greeting to soothe the soul. In short order, dinner was on the table and the family was sharing the day’s events over steaming bowls of Texas Red Chili, an adaptation of a recipe from the famous Four Sixes Ranch I discovered in an old cookbook.

Two days later, I returned to get the cow. This time, though, the herd was nearby and came trotting over to visit. I pushed the cow, the herd tagged along on the other side of the fence, and easy-peasy she went right through the open gate.

A happy ending for everyone, especially the lonely cow!

Recipe note: This chili is super-fast and easy to make because it only requires dried spices. It’s my time saver recipe, when other, more complex recipes with lots of different spices and different chilis isn’t practical. It comes together in just a few minutes and portions are easily frozen for later use. Adding a can or bottle of your favorite beer during cooking sure wouldn’t hurt, but certainly isn’t necessary. I love to serve this chili with cast iron skillet cornbread and a pot of fresh beans on the side. It also works great in an Instapot.

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RECIPE ~ EASY TEXAS RED CHILI SERVES 1620 See recipe note on page 41

INGREDIENTS 2 pounds soup bones with marrow (or oxtail) 6 pounds beef or venison chili meat (or ground) ¾ cup mild red chili powder 2 tablespoons Mexican oregano 2 tablespoons cumin seed 2 tablespoons salt 5 large cloves garlic, minced 3 quarts water ½ cup masa harina DIRECTIONS In large stockpot, brown beef or venison (add a little oil if needed).

Add soup bones, seasonings and water.

Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer, cover, and cook 1½ -2 hours.

Mix masa in about 1 cup cold water and gently stir into mixture.

Simmer uncovered about 30 minutes. Serve with pinto beans and cornbread.

BONUS RECIPE! COCONUT MACAROONS YIELDS 5 DOZEN Happy New Year! Homemade coconut macaroons are glorious in an unearthly, heavenly sort of way. And these are very easy to make, with very simple ingredients.

The first time I ate these cookies at a party, a little explosion went off in my brain – signaling off-the-charts amazing. I promptly found my friend (who baked these) and begged for the recipe. She laughed and shared a little cookbook, and when I saw it, I laughed even harder. I had the same ancient paperback cookie cookbook. The joke was on me, since I’d skipped over this gem of a recipe for more years than I’d care to admit.

Less than a week later, I whipped up (ha!) a batch and took them to a school Christmas function. Within minutes, I was swarmed with recipe requests, too – they really are that good.

If you love coconut and coconut cream pie with meringue, you will adore these cookies. They are the perfect mix of angelic, high-flying sweetness and light, airy meringue with a decadent bite of coconut and a teensy crystalline sugary crunch. I can’t tell you how long they can be stored because they always disappear. Enjoy my adapted version of the recipe. Warning: instant addiction possible!

INGREDIENTS 4 egg whites 1/8 teaspoon salt 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups flaked coconut 1 cup chopped pecans (optional) DIRECTIONS Beat egg whites and salt until foamy.

Add sugar and vanilla, beating on high until stiff peaks form. Gently fold in coconut.

Drop by tablespoonfuls onto parchment lined cookie sheets, about two inches apart.

Bake at 350°F approximately 15 minutes or until slightly golden.

Remove from oven, cool slightly, then place on wire racks to cool.

Store up to two days in tightly sealed containers between layers of waxed paper.

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local pints

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TUSCULUM BREWING CO.

BY J.E. JORDAN

B

oerne seems to be celebrating its long-time love affair with beer as brewpubs pop up across the city.

On a balmy fall afternoon, along with fellow beer enthusiasts, I discovered Tusculum Brewing Co., newly opened by a family with deep roots in this Hill Country city.

Our favorite places are those that serve a variety of tasty craft brews in a congenial atmosphere where we can sample an appetizer, learn about new brews and connect with people. Community, after all, is at the heart of the craft beer and brewpub explosion.

Tusculum checked all the boxes.

Located in a historic building at 326 Main Street, the brewery honors the town’s original name. In 1849, a group of German colonists who settled there called the new community Tusculum after an ancient Roman city, home of orator and philosopher Marcus Tullius Cicero.

When the town was incorporated in 1852, the city was renamed Boerne in honor of Ludwig Börne, a German poet and publicist.

Seven owners founded Tusculum, including Tommy Mathews II, “Tripper” Tommy Mathews III, Paige Mathews, Brandon Wilcox, Jack Sackrider, Gary Nichols and Curt Campbell. Their passion for great beer in a pleasant setting brought them together. Tripper says the partners don’t always agree, but they always remain friends.

“We’re a bunch of geologists, engineers, environmental specialists, and a nurse – all melded together,” Tripper said.

The partners anointed Paige “head cat herder,” as well as “the brains of the outfit.”

“She keeps us in line,” Tripper shared. “We’ll ask, ‘can we do this?’ and she’ll say no,” he laughs. “Then we’ll back up and try again.”

Tommy II, born and raised in Boerne, is the founder and president of Westwood Environmental, Inc., where Nichols, Campbell, Sackrider and Wilcox are colleagues. Tripper describes his dad as someone who doesn’t hesitate to grasp an opportunity, so when the historic H.O. Adler Building became available, Tommy acted quickly to lease the former general store and lumber yard.

Empty lumber racks still stand in the roofed beer garden.

With ten years’ experience in breweries around South Texas and as a homebrewer, Tripper considers the new brewpub the perfect place to showcase the brews he and his partners developed over the years in their homebrew club.

Seated at a picnic style table in the outdoor taproom next to the brewing system, we sampled an Oktoberfest, an English brown ale called Parking Lot Pecan, a chocolaty Coconut Porter served on nitrogen, a Blackberry Berliner Weisse and an IPA. The beer menu boasts several Belgian brews, about one in three, Tripper says, inspired by Tripper’s friendship with brewer Dennis Middleton. For those who prefer a lighter beverage there’s Big Tex Blonde, named after the brewery’s general contractor.

“He’s not big into craft beer, so I brewed one he’d like,” Tripper explained.

As we sat sipping our flight of five beers and choosing an appetizer, we struck up a conversation with other patrons – just as the owners intended.

“It’s great to have diverse ideas,” Tripper says. “We joke that it’s okay to have opposite views when we love each other, but the moment there’s hate, we buy the whole bar a round of beer.”

The new brewpub is keeping up the traditions of Boerne’s German heritage. They even coined the phrase “Boerne’s for beer,” which they hope will catch on and become the town motto.

“It’s good that there are more of us (brewpubs) here and that it’s become more of a beer town. We make beer because we like to drink it, and we like to have conversations and tell stories. This old building has history, and old buildings inspire stories.”

As we prepare to leave, we learn we needn’t hurry to finish our brews – we can take them with us. At most of Boerne’s brewpubs, servers provide disposable cups. With so much to see and do within walking distance in Boerne, open containers are not only allowed, but encouraged when strolling from shop to shop or brewpub to brewpub.

Tusculum is open for beer, food and conversation Fridays from 3 p.m. to 10 p.m., Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sundays noon to 7 p.m.

Charc plate and a flight of beers at Boerne’s newest brewpub, Tusculum. (Photo by Amanda Spencer, SA Foodie)

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THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE

Elena’s seasonal flavors

WINTER FLAVORS

A TASTE OF TUSCANY

BY ELENA D’AGOSTINO Chef Elena D’Agostino is well known for her delicious handmade pasta, which stands to reason as Italian cuisine is her birthright – she was born and raised in northern Italy in Torino. Now at the helm of her own company, she is delighted to be doing what she loves most, teaching and sharing her love of cooking and making pasta. She learned there was great interest in the art of pasta-making and after

teaching a class with the Saint City Supper Club a couple of years ago, she designed her own program. Today, she offers wonderful cooking classes as well as personal chef services for private dinners and events – and she couldn’t be happier. If you’re interested in discovering the world of pasta or want to learn more about authentic Italian cuisine, this local chef is our resident expert. Visit www.elenadagostino. com to learn more about her work and services.

For this issue, Chef D’Agostino prepared an Italian winter classic with a Tuscan twist, using saffron. Perfect for any chilly day, and the subtle saffron has impressive health benefits as well. Enjoy!

GNOCCHI WITH SAFFRON CREAM Gnocchi is a northern Italian pasta dish made of boiled potatoes and a small amount of flour, shaped like little soft pillows that melt in your mouth.

It is very important not to overwork the dough and to shape them no more than one hour before consuming them. The saffron cream is smooth and delicate and can be used to give a nice final touch to a risotto or as a pasta condiment. Consider topping with fried zucchini, sausage or even clams!

MAKE THE GNOCCHI INGREDIENTS 2.2 pounds potatoes (russet or old potatoes, not watery) 2 cups soft flour 1 egg (optional) 1 pinch salt 1 pinch nutmeg DIRECTIONS Boil the potatoes with skins on – pinch with a fork to be sure they are cooked and soft.

Peel quickly (rinse your hands under cold water to help yourself – the potatoes will be hot) and smash them on a table or a flat, clean surface. Add egg, flour, salt and nutmeg and work the dough quickly until just combined – form a loaf. To shape into gnocchi, cut the loaf into slices. Roll the slices into ropes, then cut ropes into bite-sized pieces with a sharp knife.

For this dish, I shape very small bites and roll them into balls.

MAKE THE SAFFRON SAUCE INGREDIENTS ¼ onion, finely chopped 1 teaspoon butter ½ cup beef stock 1 big pinch saffron to taste (soak in teaspoon of warm water) ½ cup heavy cream ½ glass white wine (Chardonnay) or 2 tablespoons Brandy 3 tablespoons Parmigiano Black pepper to taste DIRECTIONS Place finely chopped or grated onion (microplaning or grating works well so that it melts like a paste) and butter in a saucepan over low heat. When the onions are translucent, add the white wine, cream, saffron and stock. Reduce for ten minutes and keep warm.

PUT IT ALL TOGETHER Boil the gnocchi, which will be ready in seconds – you’ll know they are ready when they float.

Drain well, toss in the pan with the saffron sauce and plate.

Optional: Garnish with Parmigiano or black pepper. For the garnish in the photo, which adds a little crunch, I decorated with “coral tuile” made from a mixture of water, oil and flour.

BONUS! Coral tuile is very pretty and simple to make: Mix 6 tablespoons of water, 2 tablespoons of oil, 4 teaspoons of flour, a pinch of salt and add a drop of your favorite food color (a pinch of turmeric will give it a lovely yellow hue). Drop a tablespoon of the mixture in a preheated nonstick pan and cook for a few minutes until the bubbles are gone. Drain on paper towels and add to your gnocchi. ediblesanantonio.com

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the last bite

After the party on St. Mary’s Street (Photo by Michael Sohocki)

LOVE LETTER TO A CHEF

T

BY MICHAEL SOHOCKI

he part that outsiders can see about being a chef leads them to believe our lives are glamorous and dramatic, but there’s a darker and quieter side all chefs experience that Hollywood somehow missed.

We find ourselves up to the elbows in dishes, scrubbing suds into the floor and knocking strainer baskets into the trash can at two o’clock in the morning. Lineup is over. For many, the last train home, gone.

We are still there because this is our ship, and we are the captains.

Certain things must be done. Late at night, after the final check-out lap is complete and we flip the lock, we step out into a very different world than the one we create for you.

Ghosts roam the streets stoned and drunk, checking for open doors, limping in broken shoes, dragging their can collections behind them. Cars drift silently away. The sidewalks are blank, rather darker and wetter than the weather would suggest. (Now the duct tape that kept us closed during service can come off, and we can assess the damage.) The night air is cool and thick, and rolls through the alley dragging away cigarette smoke, burnt oil, and the last of your perfume. The steam of our sweat dries to a crust on our tired backs, and we long for comfort we can’t quite reach.

The empty husk of a town, hollowed out by a storm of humanity, is bleak – even the security guards have left. Parking lots are blank and blistered, dented roll-top doors snapped down over the entrances to buildings. Lights in the bars are turned up and shine brashly as the closing crew wipes the last of the party off the battered wood. A tiny 48

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man in a filthy apron pours mop water over the curb, another lifts the last bags of trash into a dumpster, a crooked cigarette dangling from his wrinkled lips. We are beat up by pounding music and the slosh and clang of restaurant work, looking forward to the comfort of a few hours’ rest and precious silence the night affords.

It is a certain brand of loneliness I think few people outside of night work can perceive.

My room is a place to park my body – I am heavy equipment at rest.

Heat smolders from my engines as I power down. There, in the stillness, I stare at the ceiling while the thoughts and emotional shrapnel of the day crumble out of me and seep into the floor. Exhausted, I long for something I don’t have the courage to name.

We crave nurture and love, a soothing touch. Many of us find none.

It feels right to suggest that is why so many chefs fall prey to drugs and alcohol, among other things. What joy and pleasure we fuel, what satisfaction we produce, is so often not there for us in our moment of need. So hungry are we that we’ll take any source of warmth we can get, no matter how superficial or insincere – even the warmth of a fast food burger or the whiskey we ingest.

We are trying to fill a void in our hearts in these naked and fragile hours, the ones that belong to us, when there are no good choices. We are hungry in ways that we cannot really describe or often address in any meaningful way.

If you know one of us, please pray such as you do. And leave soup on the table.

THE 2020 COCKTAIL CONFERENCE ISSUE