Resemagasinet 2022 EN by Destination Gotland

Your guide to

GOTLAND INSPIRATION AND INFORMATION FROM DESTINATION GOTLAND

TOP 15

Things to see and do on Gotland

Time travel in the present A journey through time

THE DARKNESS OF GOTLAND Sweden's best places for stargazing

Editors’ Tips – My Destination 2022

Adam Jacobsson – Responsible publisher, happiest on Kronholmen's golf course and Suderstrand beach. Linda Runarsdottir – Editor and writer, practices yoga in a ruin and recycles plastic. Nicka Hellenberg – Writer, prefers to stand in the water to fish or sit behind his drum set. Susanne Appelgren – Project manager, enjoys Ljugarn, likes to watch football and loves playing padel. Erik Unnerfelt – Designer, entertained by discovering new colours and prefers smoky beverages. Olof Segerberg – Photographer, happy when surrounded by musical instruments or on the Enduro track.

Welcome aboard! Maybe you are regular weekly commuter or maybe it’s your first trip to Gotland. Regardless, I would like to welcome you aboard one of Europe’s most contemporary seafaring experiences. My name is Marcus Risberg and I am CEO of Destination Gotland. Having grown up on an island, I know just how important it is to have good connections to and from the mainland. That’s why I feel such enormous pride in what we do at Destination Gotland to make your journey comfortable, pleasant and safe. Our new ferries, M/S Visby and

M/S Gotland were designed for the best possible environmental performance. In addition, we make a point of having efficient crossings so you can arrive quickly, on time and at less expense to the environment. We also do our best to cut down on all emissions from our crossings, from fuel to food and other waste. My crew and I wish you a pleasant journey with us at Destination Gotland! Marcus Risberg CEO of Destination Gotland

Cover picture

Cover photo from Folhammar, Ljugarn, photographed by Carl Bergstrand. Read more about “The Darkness of Gotland” on page 10.

Coastal hikes

Live life outdoors

Travel to Sweden and Gotland

Guide to Visby 4 6 10 12 14 16 18 19 22 26 28 30 32

Welcome to Gotland Top 15 things to see and do on Gotland The darkness of Gotland Travel to Sweden and Gotland Sustainable journey Food on board Enjoy nature The shifts of nature Live life outdoors Happenings on the island Young explorers Accommodations with an edge Time travel in the present

34 36 38 40 42 43 48 52 54 56 58 62 66 3

Tasteful impressions

Gotland's dramatic past From tropical sea to ice age From the Stone Ages to late Middle Ages Gotland from the 18th century to today Bunker love and a thrilling history Visby – the Hansaetic city Coastal hikes Art and culture Tasteful impressions An island of flavours A traditional taste As Gotland wakes Find your oasis

Welcome to Gotland The Baltic Sea’s largest island, Gotland is characterised by first-class dining experiences, millennial history, outstanding nature and beautiful beaches. Gotland appeals to anyone longing to discover something new, to find themselves or to just breathe freely. Nature

Along the island's 800 km of coast there are deserted pebble beaches, roads through lush forests, steep cliffs, popular sandy beaches and small harbours and fishing hamlets. The sea’s constant presence makes it possible to ride out on horseback from the east at sunrise and enjoy a sunset picnic in the west on the same day. Encompassed by the coasts are flowering meadows, green forests and enigmatic rocky outcrops. On Gotland, you are never far from an adventure in nature.

Cuisine

Agriculture is widespread and many restaurants serve locally produced ingredients, refined to world class quality. The island's culinary adventures range from cultural grains and lamb farms to local breweries and distilleries that offer thirst-quenching beverages, with or without alcohol.

Culture

With its own myth regarding its creation, its medieval churches and ancient remains, the whole island is a fascinating attraction. The Hanseatic League City and UNESCO World Heritage Site, Visby is vibrant with cosy alleys, eateries and shopping. Travelling to Gotland is like travelling back in time, but at the same time ending up in the wonderful range of experiences of contemporary times.

Top 15

things to see and do on Gotland BEACHES ON THE ISLAND

The Gotland coastal landscape offers all kinds of beach hangouts. Whether you are looking to relax on a soft and fine-grained sandy beach, swim from one of the island's piers or enjoy throngs of people, you will find the right beach for you.

VISBY CITY WALL

Visby City Wall was built in the second half of the 13th century and is considered northern Europe's oldest preserved city wall. If you walk the 3.4 kilometres around the wall, you will discover the wedged slingstone in Sankt Göransporten and the “double face" in Söderport.

RAUK SAFARI ON FÅRÖ

North-east of Gotland lies Fårö, a place where rauks tower out of the sea and on land at Digerhuvud, Langhammars and in Gamle Hamn. Go on a rauk safari and explore famous rauk formations, such as Kaffekannan and Langhammarsgubben.

THE BOTANICAL GARDEN

Inside Visby City Wall, just a stone's throw from the beach promenade, you will find the Botanical Garden. Here, you will find many plants that are uncommon in Sweden – including tulip, empress and handkerchief trees.

VISBY CITY CENTRE

Along the cobbled streets of Visby city centre you find yourself in the middle of the city's history as you wander among church ruins and stepped gable buildings. Visby is also a vibrant city with a large selection of cafés, restaurants and shopping.

Flip to page 43 for more information on Visby city centre.

ROAD TRIP ON GOTLAND

There is a lot to enjoy on Gotland and a road trip is a great way to explore local craft shops, culinary flavours and experiences in nature. Take the opportunity to stop at one of the island's restaurants, for example at Katthammarsviks Rökeri or the restaurant at Djupvik Hotel.

GLAMPING

Photo: Harriet Cederqvist

Get up close and personal to the nature of Gotland without compromising on luxurious comforts. Glamping can be experienced in many places, such as Surflogiet, Visby Strandby, Slite Strandby and Havsängen in Ljugarn.

GOTLAND’S HIGHEST POINT

Photo: Lukas Nyberg

Gotland's highest point, reaching 82 metres above sea level, is in Lojsta. Cement remains of an old fire tower built in the mid-1900s can be found at the top. Close to this point, you will find the Gotland pony park, home to Lojsta heath’s wild ponies.

HIKE ALONG THE COAST

On Gotland, you are never far from a coastal hike. There are many roads, trails and paths that take you along the sea or inward towards land, past natural areas and medieval churches.

SELF-PICKING BY SEASON

Freshly picked sunflowers on your kitchen table in your summer cottage... The island’s farmland landscape offers a wide range of flowers, berries and vegetables for self-picking. Many farms also have shops at which they sell freshly harvested produce that is in season.

The towers of St. Mary's Cathedral in Visby get your attention. The medieval church was built as a guest church for German merchants. St. Mary's was consecrated to the Virgin Mary. Here the sun shines in through artist Pär Andersson's stained glass.

Photo: Harriet Cederqvist

THE CATHEDRAL

GOTSKA SANDÖN

Explore Gotska Sandön, Gotland's northernmost point 37 kilometres north of Fårö. Here you can glimpse seals and watch birds and don’t forget to visit the lighthouse and museum located in Gotska Sandön's old school.

KRONHOLMEN – #1 in Sweden

At Kronholmen in Västergarn you will find Visby Golf Club – Sweden's best golf course according to Svensk Golf (2021). Here, golfers are welcomed for most of the year. This seaside golf experience was designed by Pierre Fulke and Adam Mednickson.

THE EKSTAKUSTEN NATURE RESERVE

In the nature reserve along the Eksta coast you can hike on smooth pebbles among coniferous trees shaped by the harsh wind. Along the coast you pass sights such as Kronvald's fishing hamlet and the coastal artillery's old bunkers. There are also views of Stora and Lilla Karlsö islands. The coast also offers colourful sunsets.

FORNSALEN (The Historical Museum)

On Strandgatan in Visby city centre you can visit Gotlands Fornsal – the island's oldest cultural history museum. Here you can view historical objects such as Gotland's picture stones and the Spillings Hoard. The museum's knowledgeable guides will walk you through Gotland's history. For the youngest visitors, there is the children's exhibition Skepp & Skoj (Ship Ahoy).

The Darkness of Gotland For photographer Carl Bergstrand, the dark holds possibilities. When the nights are cloudless and the summer light has retreated, the starry sky is his ceiling and the camera his ally.

The magazine cover displays what Carl Bergstrand captures with his camera when the light is gone. Images of infinity. A bit of the cosmic light that reaches us on the planet Tellus, at the edge of the Milky Way galaxy. The fact that Carl manages to capture the dramatic sky is, of course, due to his good knowledge of photography techniques, persistent planning and lots of time spent. But the fact that he can do so on Gotland can also be explained.

A dark, pleasant landscape

“Gotland has very little of what is called light pollution. This means that we can see an extra bright starry sky," says Carl. In large parts of the world, dark areas are becoming increasingly rare due to urban sprawl and infrastructure. Thanks to the island's expansive, sparsely populated areas and its location in the middle of the Baltic Sea,

the disruptive light of large cities is avoided. The very dark nights of autumn, winter and early spring are highly beneficial to night photographers. The darkness that befalls Gotland for much of the year enables you see the Northern Lights with the naked eye when the conditions are right. Unfortunately, it’s not common that they are. “It's hard to describe it, but it's incredibly fascinating to be under a mysterious, endlessly starry sky. It engulfs you. As a photographer, I have become interested in just how far I can take night photography.”

The camera sees more than the eye

On a clear, cold autumn night, the Milky Way emerges as a clear streak of millions of dots of light and the famous constellations shine with impressive vibrancy. Even without a camera, it's a cool spectacle that awaits when

Name: Carl Bergstrand. Lives: In Visby with his family. Occupation: Photographer and nurse. Read and view more at: carlbergstrand.se Instagram: carl.bergstrand lightpollutionmap.info

the sun goes down. In clear weather, the Milky Way and thousands of other stars and celestial bodies are clearly visible from a number of locations on Gotland. However, the camera can pick up even more. “You have to remember that the camera can capture things that aren't really visible to the naked eye. With the camera’s help, you can capture colours, lights and objects that are not prominent to the eye. I love the magic that occurs when a sharp violet nebula or dust cloud appears on the screen," says Carl.

Seasons and star spotting locations

When Carl gets to choose his favourite place and time to look at the starry sky, he chooses Holmhällar on an autumn night, when the Milky Way rises in the south west. “It's an amazing feeling to stand on the shores of Holmhällar, at two o'clock in the morning and have

Gdansk in the south and Burgsvik in the north as the only small islands of light in the distance. It is probably one of southern Sweden's best places for stargazing. The world at night is an entirely different place," says Carl. When dawn awakens and banishes the dark, Carl returns home to his family. Even his children have begun to take an interest in these nightly excursions, so the next generation of celestial photographers is probably already in the making.

Travel to Sweden and Gotland Ever since the Stone Age, shipping has connected Gotland with the mainland and the rest of the world. It flourished during the Viking and Middle Ages and Visby was a popular trading town in the Baltic Sea region. In 1865, when Ångfartygsbolaget Gotland started up winter traffic to the mainland, a journey took around 13 hours (compared to just over three hours nowadays). Prior to that, passenger traffic was run using paddle steamers that could not handle ice. Rederiet, which is the world's oldest passenger shipping company, became Rederi AB Gotland, of which, Destination Gotland is a subsidiary. There are currently two commercial ways to get to Gotland, by ferry or plane.

FERRIES

Between the mainland ports of Oskarshamn and Nynäshamn, traffic to Visby is daily. The crossings take just over three hours. There are various seating options aboard the ships as well as cafés and restaurants. Naturally, pets are welcome on board the ship's pet decks and compartments. In the summer, the Västervik – Visby route also runs giving you the opportunity to visit Visby for the day.

Our sister shipping company Hansa Destinations runs between Nynäshamn and Rostock, with some tours calling in at Visby. There are compartments with comfortable beds on board so you can sleep well and arrive rested.

FLIGHTS

Visby Airport is 3.5 kilometres from Visby city centre. There are daily flights between Visby and Stockholm as well as to other destinations. For up-to-date travel information, see: swedavia.com/visby.

NORWAY

OSLO TALLIN STOCKHOLM

ESTONIA NYNÄSHAMN

SWEDEN

VÄSTERVIK VISBY GOTHENBURG

LATVIA

OSKARSHAMN

RIGA

LITHUANIA

FERRIES

DENMARK

There are daily connections between Visby/Gotland and the mainland. Ferries go from Visby Harbour to Nynäshamn and Oskarshamn (as well as Västervik in the summer). Our sister company Hansa Destinations, offers trips between the island and Rostock, Germany.

COPENHAGEN MALMOE

FLIGHTS ROSTOCK HAMBURG

You can also fly to Gotland. For up-to-date travel information, see: swedavia.com

POLAND

GERMANY

PASSPORTS AND VISAS

For visiting Sweden and Gotland, you need to follow the entry rules that apply for your nationality. EU citizens need a valid national identity card or passport to travel to Sweden from another Schengen-EU country. More information about entry rules can be found here: visitsweden.com

TIME

Sweden and Gotland are on Central European time, one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT +1). Throughout the country, daylight savings time is still implemented. Summer time starts on the last weekend in March and the clock is set ahead one hour. In the last weekend in October, the clock is set back one hour for winter time. There are a number of mnemonic tricks for remembering this, one being “Spring forward, fall back”.

CURRENCY AND PAYMENT

In Sweden, the currency is Swedish kronor (1 krona = 100 öre), through cash is rarely used in Sweden nowadays. In Sweden, it has long been said that CARD IS KING, not CASH as in many other countries. Many shops and eateries are “cash-free" and will not accept cash. In fact, most banks in Sweden are also “cash-free", but there are still a few ATM machines in major cities, often charging an additional fee. In order for you to be able to pay or withdraw cash with your credit card, you need a card with a chip and PIN. Older magnetic strip cards will not work.

To pay in Sweden, credit and debit cards are mainly used. Traveller's cheques and other checks are often difficult to both pay with and redeem. Swedish citizens also have the opportunity to pay with the Swish app, a payment app in which most Swedish banks collaborate.

PHONE AND WIFI

The number to call in an emergency is 112. Sweden's country code is +46. On Gotland, the phone number of those who still have a landline starts with (0)498. Most people nowadays have mobile phone numbers and there are several operators in the country. WiFi is widespread and easy to connect to. On some parts of Gotland, mobile phone and WiFi coverage can be spotty.

LANGUAGE

Swedish is the official language of Sweden. There are severel recognised national languages in the country and many dialects. Gotland is home to a local dialect called Gotländska. It originates from Gutamål derived from Old Gutniska. Some Gotlanders can speak it, but it is difficult for most other Swedes to understand them.

SEASONS

There are four seasons in Sweden. Gotland belongs to the part of the country that has mild winters and warm summers compared to many other parts of the country. December – February. Winter in Gotland does not generally see much snow though occasionally, enough falls that children can go sledding on the moat adjacent to the Visby City Wall. In winter, the sun rises late and goes down early, allowing for beautiful starry skies and the occasional sighting of the Northern Lights on the island. March – May. Spring on Gotland is characterised by the return of daylight and with it, blooming flowers and chirping birds. Still, chilly winds can sweep across the island. It is said that before the warmth of spring can be trusted, the island needs to see seven low pressure systems since the first starling appeared back on the island. June – August. Summer on the island is the time of spectacular flora and foliage. Most visitors come to swim and visit the beaches found around the island. The average daytime temperature is between 18 and 21 degrees Celsius and Gotland is usually among the top “sun-drenched” destinations in Sweden, boasting many hours of sunshine in the summer. September – November. The autumn in Gotland is ideal for those who like to be out in nature, hike, cycle or take a late summer dip in the warmed-up waters of the Baltic Sea. There are local festivals celebrating the harvest, and later in the autumn, the island’s “black gold” is celebrated during Gotland truffle month and the truffle festival.

SUSTAINABLE JOURNEYS When you travel with us, you are not only a passenger on one of our vessels, but you are also on route to more climate-neutral ferry traffic. What we do today will affect the Gotland ferry services of tomorrow

Destination Gotland is making long-term efforts to reduce their carbon footprint and impact on the environment. Thanks to decisions that were made at a much earlier date, we can now be at the forefront of the shipping industry's environmental efforts. What we do today will affect tomorrow's Gotland ferry services. As early as the 1990s we started working towards more modern, sustainable Gotland connections. We invested in new ships and more fuel-efficient technology. At the turn of the millennium, we decided to invest in cutting-edge technology and gas-powered vessels, which allowed us to put the new M/S Visborg and M/S Gotland vessels into operation in 2019/2020. Both ships are powered by liquefied natural gas and biogas.

Technology development continues at a rapid pace, and we are continuously working to implement new, more efficient solutions that reduce emissions. In a next step, we see that electrification, hybrid ships, biogas and hydrogen technology will play an important role in making traffic completely climate neutral. We collaborate with several actors in shipping and invest in new technologies and innovations in the fuel market to make the journey towards fossil-free travel as fast and efficient as possible. We need to be smart in everything we do, from on board service and the food we serve to the handling of the ship's materials and what is consumed on the ferry. Systematic environmental work and management systems are allowing us to go on improving our efforts for even more sustainable travel at sea. The above is an excerpt from our sustainability report. To read more about our sustainability efforts, please see: destinationgotland.se/sustainability

HIGHLIGHTS

2007

Installation of solar film on windows reduces heat radiation and cooling requirement. Route optimisation. Eco-driving.

1998

We start using low-sulphur fuel to reduce emissions of sulphur at sea, 17 years before this became a requirement for shipping on the Baltic Sea. Catalysers installed to reduce emissions of nitrogen oxides (NOx), equivalent to the reduction required by law from January 1, 2021. Sorting of all waste from rubbish and guest areas on our vessels.

1995

2009 2003

Recycling of exhaust heat reduces electricity consumption on board.

2000

2005

Wastewater from vessels taken ashore for treatment at Visby treatment plant. Water from cleaning machinery and deck cleaners is disposed of as hazardous waste.

2010

2019

New vessel M/S Visborg, powered by LNG and LBG, enters service. Shore power connection at the Port of Visby. We recycle cold air from the LNG system to the cooling system and reduce electricity consumption. We start to reduce our use of plastic on board our vessels. Examples include coffee cups made from paper and grass composite and plastic packaging made from recycled plastic.

2020

New vessel M/S Gotland enters service, also powered by LNG and LBG.

2030

Our goal is for the next generation of vessels to enter service by 2030. New electrification and hydrogen technologies will lead the way towards climate-neutral services.

2021

We increase the proportion of biogas in our fuel mix to 10%.

2015

2020

2025

2030

2045

Food on board By: Henrik Berglöf

“It's the chefs, pantry chefs and everyone else working on board that make things happen.”

Stina Tumegård's title is “Product Manager of Food and Quality”. Simply put, you could say she is the person responsible for the food on board. In her work, she puts a great amount of effort into finding a good combination of dishes, collaborating with suppliers, and continually developing sustainability work. But when asked, she will tell you that the most important work done takes place on board the ships. “It's the chefs, pantry chefs and everyone else working on board that make things happen. We think it's important to make as much food as possible from scratch on board. It should be home-made, but on the ship,” says Stina Tumegård. Each year, more than one million servings of food are served on board Destination Gotland's ferries and it is during the 45 minutes between launches that everything needed for meals is loaded onto the ship. Much effort is devoted to finding suppliers from Gotland – currently, travellers can find potatoes and meat from Gotland on the menu. “Naturally, it makes us extra happy to find suppliers from Gotland who can manage to deliver the large quantities we need. But it's the quality that makes us want to cooperate with local suppliers,” Stina tells us. So that everyone can find something to eat on board, enormous efforts have been made to come up with new vegetarian and vegan dishes. The vegan hamburger has quickly become the favourite of many. “In developing it, our goal was to make the vegan burger so delicious that everyone would want to eat it. Even meat lovers. The result is a delicious soy burger with black bean spread, salsa and vegan mayonnaise that is made in Klinte in the middle of Gotland,” Stina tells us.

Classic meatballs made of Gotland beef and served with home-made cream sauce and buffet cucumber is the most popular dish. Gotland new potatoes accompany the dish when in season. When not, mashed potatoes are served. “What's most important to me is that our guests like our food. For our staff to be able to make good food on board, they need the right conditions and good raw materials. We offer food that our chefs are proud to make and our servers are proud to present.

DID YOU KNOW?

That more than one tenth of the burgers sold on board are vegan? That the eggs served at breakfast were laid on Gotland? That the cucumber from Gute Delikatesser that is served with our meatballs won the Swedish Culinary Championship? That the bread for our burgers and shrimp sandwich come from Gotland bakeries? That the coffee cups are made of cardboard containing grass and that the lids are made from sugar manufacturing by-products? That all meat and chicken served on board are Swedish?

ENJOY NATURE

THE FOUNDATION OF EVERYTHING The nature of Gotland is extraordinary with its pebble and sandy beaches, lush meadows, famous sea stacks, looming cliffs, harsh limestone plains, pine forests, bird-rich wetlands and so much more. Man's grazing livestock have also been shaping the landscape for thousands of years. Thanks to the climate and its location in the Baltic Sea, Gotland boasts flora and fauna that is found nowhere else in the world. Gotland’s bedrock is over 400 million years old and consists of e.g., limestone and sandstone. Embedded in the bedrock are plants, corals and animals that are older than the dinosaurs. But today, they are simply fossils. People have been good about preserving the Gotland landscape through the ages so that even we can enjoy it today. If we continue to show consideration, even coming generations will be able to partake in its beauty. Three tips for your visit to Gotland:

1. Take pictures – not fossils

On the beaches of Gotland, you can often find stones containing the fossilised remains of plants and animals that were found on the island during the Silurian period. Fossils show us how environments and organisms looked millions of years ago. You are welcome to take home a fossil or two as souvenirs from your visit to Gotland. However, you may not take large amounts, use the stones for commercial purposes or break fossils off of stones or sea stacks. Photos, on the other hand, are free for the taking and for sharing with friends.

2. Create memories – not cairns

Stones may be hard, but they are also fragile. Many of Gotland’s unique environments attract visitors – the sea stack areas and our lovely stone beaches, to name a few. There are nature reserves in which moving stones is prohibited such as at the popular Langhammars on Fårö. On certain beaches, you are not prohibited from raising cairns, but please take them down before you leave. Formations made of heavy stones can injure children and animals if they tumble at an inopportune time. And it’s likely that the area's next visitors would like to find the same, untouched, wild beach as you found.

3. Enjoy the roads – don’t drive in nature

Our winding roads, flowering roadsides and beautiful stretches offer a wealth of experiences. Enjoy the ride and consider your surroundings. It is not permitted to drive cars or other motor vehicles off-road. Stay on the roads and park in the designated parking areas. By doing so, you help preserve the land, foliage, outdoor and animal life, agriculture and forestry.

RIGHT OF PUBLIC ACCESS IN BRIEF

In Sweden and in Gotland we enjoy the right of public access which welcomes everyone to nature. But this freedom also carries with it the responsibility to leave things undisturbed. You are responsible for nature and animal life and for being considerate towards landowners and other visitors.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION Don’t take anything home with you other than pictures and impressions. Leave nothing behind but gentle footprints. Enjoy your stay. Everyone on Gotland is part of someone else's experience – please show consideration.

The shifts of nature IF YOU LIKE RAUKS (SEA STACKS)

There are rauks elsewhere in the world, but Gotland is known to have some of the most magnificent. The fact that they have formed in this particular location is because Gotland bedrock consists of hard reef limestone. The sea sanded away softer parts leaving behind stacks of different shapes – that is, rauks. Digerhuvud – Not only Sweden's largest rauk field, but also likely the most famous. The 3.5-kilometre long rauk field found on Fårö consists of hundreds of rauks of all kinds of sizes and shapes. There are special barbecue areas and a lovely setting to enjoy the sunset.

Lergrav – There are famous rauks such as the “Lergrav Gate” and the “Madonna and Child” up on the hill above little Lergrav's fishing village. A small yet popular rauk field to visit on the way to or from the island of Furillen. It is not uncommon to find sheep grazing around the stacks. The Maiden in Lickerhamn – Up on the cliff, overlooking Lickershamn's fishing village, harbour and beach, stands Gotland's tallest rauk, the “Maiden”. She stands at the cliff edge close to fifteen meters above sea level and is, herself, eleven metres tall.

Folhammar – North of Ljugarn, you will find the stately, accessible rauk area – about 500 metres worth, with some rauks stretching up to six metres. If you look closely, you will see the rauks are covered in fossils. There are also nice areas for barbecuing here. Holmhällar – Nature reserve and one-kilometre long rauk area in Vamlingbo parish on southern Gotland. Here, the rauks stand tight together and look out over the island of Heligholmen and the ever-changing sea.

IF YOU ENJOY MEADOWS, FORESTS AND GOTLAND PONIES

Not all trees that grow on Gotland have needles, there are also many lovely deciduous forests to hike through. There are remarkable sand forests with knotty pine trees and a place where you can find wild Gotland ponies. Ängen, as the landscaped meadows of flowers and deciduous trees are called, are environments that are home to many species, partly because they have been used as pastures. Plants, birds, insects and other animals thrive on the island.

Ekebysänget/Salmbärshagen – Large knotty oaks, wild-growing dewberries, bats and woodpeckers. Allkvie änge – You will find this gem eight kilometres east of Visby. There is a 1.6-kilometre nature path that traverses this meadow. Nature, cultural history and beautiful surroundings, all in one. Bosarve deciduous forest – This area has been in use since the Stone Age. Nowadays, you will find the splendour of flowers, birds and many ancient remains such as the Bronze Age cairns and the remains of Iron Age farms in Solsänget. Ullahau – On north-east Fårö, there is a queer sand forest. Pine trees grow on a giant sand dune and the area is known for the predatory antlions found here. They dig small sand pits where they pull down and overpower ants and insects. Lojsta heath – The forest of wild horses. Here, you will find a herd of Gotland ponies – Sweden’s oldest domestic breed of horses. There are about 50 mares and their foals that live freely in the area though they are herded a couple of times a year. If you want to ensure that you get a glimpse of these small cuties, we recommend a guided tour.

IF YOU LIKE ISLANDS

Did you know that...

There are a number of islands you can visit around Gotland. The largest of them is Fårö, which is naturally a must if you are interested in Ingmar Bergman, sundrenched beaches and rauks. But there are several more gems to discover. Gotska Sandön – Sweden’s most isolated island, approximately 40 kilometres north of Fårö. National park boasting shifting sand, ancient pine forests and a large population of grey seals. According to legend, the island was once known as a hangout for pirates. The visiting season starts at the end of May and runs until the beginning of September. Stora and Lilla Karlsö islands – Unexploited islands with limestone plains, orchids, steep cliffs tumbling into the sea and a rich bird fauna where guillemots and razorbills breed. There are a great number of caves on Stora Karlsö, including the Stora förvar where the remains of Stone Age people have been found. Here, you can dine and find accommodations. Lilla Karlsö lacks services but its beautiful surroundings draw you in. Here you will find horned, free-roaming Gotland sheep grazing among the grave sites and ship settings. Östergarnsholm – Outside Herrvik on eastern Gotland you will find this uninhabited, isolated island with four lighthouses. An ancient prehistoric castle attests that people once used the island. Here you can go tour boating, at least in the summer. Enholmen – In the small Slite archipelago you will find Enholmen, ten minutes by boat from Slite. The price includes a guided tour of Karlsvärd Fortress and the eastern abatis, the donjon. You can also walk around the small island, which once housed Sweden's first cholera hospital. Furillen – Alternatively spelled “Furilden” is nowadays connected by road. The limestone industry was up and running on the site until the 1970s. Well into the 1990s Furillen was a military protection area. There is no longer any military activity here. Nor is there any industry, just traces of it as nature has slowly taken over the landscape again. This special environment is often used in photography and films and between abandoned limestone quarries and slag heaps, an old factory building has become a designer hotel. In the northern part of Furillen, there is a nature reserve with beautiful beach meadows, popular with birdwatchers.

IF YOU LIKE SEA CLIFFS AND ANCIENT CASTLES

The magnificent sea cliffs have a barren and inscrutable feel. The view from these high points is often breath-taking on what is otherwise a flat island. These are great places to visit if you want to get a panorama view or just want to experience the insignificance of man. Hall-Hangvar – With 15 kilometres of rocky coastline, open rocky outcrops and Gotland-swept pine trees, you can take a long and gruelling walk. Brucebo – In Brucebo you can take in the views from the cliff edge or make your way down to bird-rich beach meadows and a cliff face with several enrapturing caves. Up on the cliff itself, the typical Gotland pine trees grow close together, often gnarled and low-grown in the windswept landscape. Högklint – Just south of Visby is one of the most popular outlooks on Gotland. At 48 metres above sea level, the view is heavenly. Here, the residents of Gotland and visitors often gather to take in the beautiful light of the sunset. Many weddings have been immortalised here, with the sea as their backdrop. There are several foot paths around Högklint, such as the one to Ynge fishing hamlet. Torsburgen – When the Ice Age ended, the area rose up like a plateau with falling sides. During the Iron Age and Viking age, people used the hillfort to build an impregnable stronghold – the largest prehistoric defence in the Nordic region. A substantial fire ravaged the area in 1992 and changed the surroundings, but many species of insects, plants and fungi actually benefited from the new environment. Grogarnsberget – Steeps with collapsed rocks and a winding road along the coast frame Grogarnsberget. Though it only 30 metres to the highest point, the view is extraordinary. At the tip of the hill, referred to as Grogarnshuvud, there is an old bunker and the remains of an ancient Viking fortress.

...there are inland lakes on Gotland. They are called “fens”. Some are small, fissure lakes such as the fens of Lojsta and Etelhem, or the popular Sigvalde swimming lake. Most of the fens are shallow with a light-coloured limestone bottom. Bästeträsk in the north is the largest of the lakes, followed by the popular swimming hole Tingstäde Träsk. Fårö is home to a number of minor, shallow fens, some of which are rich in bird life.

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Life outdoors

GOLF

If you enjoy golf, there are seven golf courses on Gotland ranging from pay-and-play to renowned 18-hole courses. Some courses offer accommodations and some have restaurants and shops. There are packages available that cover accommodations, green fee and dinner at a number of courses or you can book a course on improving your swing. Gumbalde Golfklubb near Ljugarn – prime 18-hole course a lá Pierre Fulke. In addition to excellent golf, there are padel courts, a farm restaurant, bike rentals and a hotel. Visby Golf Club at Kronholmen – earned first ranking by Svensk Golf (2021) and third in the Nordic countries by Golf Digest. Beautiful natural surroundings by the sea. Pierre Fulke and Adam Mednickson designed both the 9-hole and the 18-hole high-class European courses. Suderbys Golf. A simple pay-and-play course a few minutes south of Visby. Perfect for golfing beginners or those who want to try the sport. The fee includes club, bag and cart rental.

BEACH LIFE

Gotland constantly tops the list of sun-drenched destinations. No wonder the island’s many beaches are so popular. Here, you will find beautiful sandy beaches with a wealth of services, or quiet, hidden gems. Tofta Strand beach – This beach is a total swimming and people magnet. Probably the most popular beach for swimming on the island. Lovely sand and lots of activity. Nisseviken – Generally one of the beaches to have the warmest water. Shallow for long stretches, a dock to swim from and lot of room for your beach chair or blanket. Sudersand – Fårö's best known beach. Fine-grain sand, restaurants, and a good mix of activity and tranquillity. Ljugarn – Perfectly situated beach resort, since the late 19th century. The sandy beach stretches for several kilometres. Area teeming with restaurants and cafés. Sandviken – Shallow fine-grain sandy beach with lots of parking. Camping, shops and a short distance from Sysne Udd, where you can buy freshly caught fish.

SURFING

Around the island, the sea and waves are perfect for kite, wave and wind surfing, and stand-up paddling (SUP). Take a course if you’re not already a master. Surfing schools and rentals can be found on Fårö, in Slite and Gnisvärd. Don’t miss Surflogiet in Tofta. They offer surfing, luxury camping in glamping tents and a lovely beachside restaurant with the sea as its nearest neighbour. A few of the popular places for kite and board surfing: Kovik, Ekeviken, Faludden, Gnisvärd

Keep in mind that the wind and currents can be hazardous. Do not go out alone and make sure you have the requisite knowledge. Show nature, landowners and bird protection areas respect.

CYCLING, RUNNING, HIKING

The island’s 800 kilometre coastline is clearly attractive. But Gotland has so much more to offer those who want to hike, run or pedal their way around. From comfortable walks and electric bike tours on flat ground to challenging mountain bike races or long runs in tough terrain. For bike enthusiasts Gotland Bike Park – Lots of routes for any bike lover, with its epicentre in the Slite area. Road cycling and MTB. Gotland’s bike rental in Visby – MTB for a day on Södra Hällarna, package offer including a tent and comfortable bike for exploring Visby over the course of a day. Bikeaholic – You will find this shop, repair shop and organiser of routes for cycling fanatics in Klintehamn. Hiking at your own pace There are many beautiful hiking trails to choose from which are also perfect for long runs. Three of the most scenic and appreciated are: Klintkustleden trail – Possibly the most beautiful in Sweden. Starts in Hall in north-western Gotland. It traverses cliffs, meadows, beaches and forest, finally ending in Lummelunda – 30 kilometres of beauty with barbecue pits and overnight accommodations available. The Pilgrim trail between Fröjel and Klinte – Eight kilometres of lush forest, outlooks from high cliffs and the amazing view of the Karlsöarna islands. Or take the Pilgrim trail that goes from St. Olofsholm in north-east Gotland to the Solberga abbey ruins in Visby. It takes about two days to make the trek.

Södra Hällarna – A favourite of Visby residents, this beautiful site is just south of Visby harbour. Here, you can take a number of short hikes. Bring your dog or bike along. And don’t miss the sun setting over the sea.

DIVING

The diving conditions around Gotland are some of the best in the Baltic Sea. The water is often clear, offering great opportunities to successfully dive to a shipwreck or take an underwater excursion among rauks, cliffs and steep underwater drop-offs. Dyk & Sport Gotland can assist with courses, excursions and equipment. Experienced divers can contact Gotlands Dykarklubb for scuba diving and freediving tips. Digerhuvud, Fårö – Here, there is a steep drop down tens of metres, straight off the ledge. A real drop off. Here, bullheads, flounders and cod swim among the magnificent underwater cliffs. Close by, you will also find the Casper and Stern wrecks. St. Olofsholm – Outside St. Olofsholm on north-eastern Gotland lies Ytterholmen island. This is a good location from which to dive to the wreckage of the Mulan which sank here in 1958 and is a popular and reasonably easyto-dive wreck. Hallshuk – Mighty cliffs on land and nice little seaweed-clad underwater rauks. Amazing experience in surroundings particular to Gotland. There are fissures a few metres below the surface that look like walkways and caverns. Lots of fossils and some flatfish to examine.

BIRDWATCHING

Gotland is one of the most interesting places in Sweden for birdwatchers. Many different species, from the smallest passerine to mighty birds of prey, breed here. During the spring and fall, many species migrate past, providing ornithologists with rare sightings. Birdwatching towers With binoculars and a packed snack on hand, you are ready to take in the scenery. Popular birdwatching towers can be found around inland lake Paviken in Västergarn, Storsund in Gothem, Inre Stockviken in south-eastern Gotland, Träskmyr in Kappelshamn and on Närsholmen. Karlsöarna islands Stora and Lilla Karlsö islands constitute a nature reserve that deserves its very own presentation. The islands are the breeding grounds for birds such as guillemots and razorbills. A highlight of the year is when the guillemot chicks plunge from the high cliffs to start their lives outside the nest. Book a guide and boat tour to these gems for a memorable experience. Eagle safari If you are interested in seeing mighty birds of prey, an eagle safari is just the thing. Nowadays, there is a high proportion of golden and sea eagles that breed on Gotland. It is an impressive sight when these large birds spread their wings overhead. Book via Destination Gotland.

FISHING

Gotland is well-known for its sport fishing of sea trout along the coast. The season, long as it is, is best in the autumn, winter and spring. Don your waders to fly or spin fish for the silver of the sea. Hire a guide or explore on your own. Remember that there are conservation areas where fishing is prohibited. Observe minimum length and catch quota regulations for the different species of fish. Freshwater fishing can be found in a few places but requires a fishing license. For fishing tips, advice and regulations, see www.fiskelandgotland.se. You can purchase complete fishing packages from Destination Gotland. See destinationgotland.se for more outdoor activity tips.

Happenings on the island RECURRING EVENTS

Culture, music, nature, sport, food and drink. Loads of events, from Fårö in the north to Sudret in the south, are reason enough for a visit. Some follow a fixed annual schedule and others move around. You can purchase tickets to some of the events on destinationgotland.se. A few tips: Summer

National Day – Sweden's National Day, June 6, is celebrated in various ways. Garden Week – In mid-June, some of the island's gardening enthusiasts open their gardens to visitors. Inaugurated in the lovely Botanical Garden in Visby.

Photo: Jesper Hammarlund/Bildvision

Spring

Easter – The great Easter parade takes place in Visby. Close to 4,000 people, donned in the Easter Witch best, parade through the streets of the city. Anyone in costume receives an Easter egg. Golfing Around Gotland – In mid-May, one of Sweden’s largest golf tournaments takes place. Hundreds of participants play five different 18-hole courses in five days. Gotland Hiking Week – Hike with skilled guides as the flowers of spring pop from their beds. Day hikes ranging from 10 to 20 kilometres in beautiful landscapes, with a focus on the coast. Good food and nature in all its splendour with birds singing their spring song. Walpurgis and 1 May – All around the island on 30 April, Walpurgis bonfires are lit and we welcome the spring with song. The first of May is a bank holiday. Studios open – One long weekend in conjunction with Ascension Day in May, Gotland’s artists, craftsmen and designers all over the island open their studio doors to visitors. One of Sweden's most expansive art tours. Premiere for early produce – Food and tourism companies in Gotland offer delicious morsels and lessons in true food art. This event usually takes place at the end of May. Releasing the Stallion at Lojsta heath – At the end of May, the stallion selected for the year is released into the paddock to meet the rest of the herd. It is quite the spectacle!

Midsummer – Kicking off summer. Perhaps the most festive of all of Sweden’s holidays, with a wealth of events. Dress and dance around the Midsummer pole, enjoy pickled herring and the first strawberries of the year. Bergman Week – An annual festival in the spirit of Bergman. Five days filled with film, theatre, music, lectures and exciting guests. Stångaspelen Games – The first week in July marks Gotland’s own “Olympic Games”. Crowds of spectators watch as women and men compete in events such as “pärk”, caber tossing and a physically demanding pentathlon. Almedalen Week – The world's largest democratic meeting place for societal issues. The eight Swedish Parliamentary parties are the main organiser. Gotland Chamber Music Festival – annual chamber music festival with concerts in the St. Nicolai ruins and other lovely locations. Roma Theatre – Romateater at Roma Cloister Ruins has, for the past 30 years, established itself as one of Sweden's largest and most beautiful summer stages. It features Shakespearean dramas and comedies as well as other classics. Viking Week at Stavgard – For a full week in August, the Viking Age (8th-11th centuries) is recreated with markets, crafts, performances, archery, games and music. Mediaeval Week – Mediaeval Week has been a staple of Gotland since 1984. This festival, attracting thousands of visitors from many countries, takes place on the week starting Aug. 8.

Photo: Alva Callermo

Autumn/Winter

Harvest Festival – At the beginning of September, Gotland’s delicious, abundant pantry is available. The Harvest Festival offers the “from earth to table” concept in various events across the island. Fårönatta Festival – It is time for Fårö’s great close-ofthe-season festival on the third weekend in September. Fårö's farm shops, stores, restaurants, concerts, art exhibits, markets and accommodations are alive with activity. Many free buses to take you between activities. Autumn markets – The markets on Gotland offer places to meet, the sale of goods and lots of other happenings. The largest autumn markets are in Kräklingbo, Slite, Klintehamn and Hemse. Truffle Festival – in November, the annual Truffle Festival is held in Gotland. The focus is on seminars, markets, ceremonies and a bunch of dishes featuring truffles. Gotland's “Drikke” Championship – “Drikke” is a cultural brew with a lot of history. On the first Saturday in October, the championship for home-brewing drikke takes place. Visby Day/Culture at Night – In honour of World Heritage City Visby, a weekend full of cultural events and shopping is organised. This takes place annually on the first weekend of October. Gotland Pride – Gotland’s very own rainbow festival celebrating diversity kicks off in November.

Gotland Grand National – Extremely muddy, wet and absolutely fabulous if you ask the 3,000 motorcyclists and thousands of spectators who gather at Tofta shooting range for the largest Enduro competition on the last weekend in October and the first in November. Christmas Markets – There are a number of lovely Christmas market experiences all over Gotland that take place starting in the beginning of December. Celebrate New Year on Gotland – A whole lot of accommodations and restaurants have special offers for celebrators of New Year. Take in a wintry, glittering, extravagant Gotland. NOTE: We reserve the right to make changes to the coming events and activities.

Tickets to important events, concerts and centres You can find tickets to many concerts and events at destinationgotland.se

KULTURENS Ö (THE ISLAND OF CULTURE)

Kulturens Ö is a collaboration between Destination Gotland and Gotland’s cultural life. They will help you find and book interesting cultural experiences on Gotland. Read more: kulturenso.se.

IDROTTENS Ö (THE ISLAND OF SPORT)

Island of Sport is a partnership between sporting bodies on Gotland and the tourist industry on Gotland. Read more: idrottenso.se

Young explorers KNEIPPBYN

Kneippbyn boasts activities on the water and on land! Visit Villa Villekulla and meet Pippi Longstocking at Sommarland. Vattenland calls on the brave to throw themselves down exhilarating water slides and for the wee ones to come play in the kiddie pools. Services: Various eateries, accommodations, shops, mini-mart and free buses to and from Visby. Website: kneippbyn.se/in-english/

LUMMELUNDA CAVE

Go on a tour that takes you back 400 million years in time. Here, you can explore the Hall of the Mountain King, stalactites and fossils. The Lummelunda caves are an experience for young and old alike. Services: Various restaurants and cafés and a shop. Website (in Swedish): lummelundagrottan.se

GOTLAND ZOO

Eskelhem is home to Gotland Zoo, a place where children can enjoy pony rides and a walk among alpacas, miniature horses and sheep. The zoo is also home to camels, kangaroos and two water buffaloes going by the names of Mats and Bosse. Services: Café during peak season and on the weekends during the off-peak season. Website (in Swedish): gotlandsdjurpark.se

FENOMENALEN SCIENCE CENTER

At Fenomenalen in Visby, children can delve into natural science and technology! Here, curiosity is allowed to reign freely in exploring technological and scientific inventions. Services: Shop. Website (in Swedish): gotland.se/fenomenalen

THE GOTLAND TRAIN

Photo: Malin Vinblad

Take your children on a ride from the time of their great grandparents – on a steam train. Get a feel for Gotland's rail history and experience authentic station environments in Dalhem, Tule, Roma Kungsgård and Roma. Services: Museum, shop and café. Website (in Swedish): gotlandstaget.se

DRAKJOHAN

In Gotland's Kovik, you will find Drakjohan’s shop of kites, wind catchers and much more. It is a highly colourful shop with many unusual products. Drakjohan also organises courses for those interested in building their own kites. Website (in Swedish): drakjohan.se

BERGMAN CENTRE CREATIVE WORKSHOP

The Creative Workshop at Bergman Centre is a place for children and young people to explore their artistic expression, whether it's taking the stage, dipping their brush in paint or creating a film. There is also a puppet theatre for children to put on their own hand-puppet productions. Services: Restaurant/café. Website: bergmancenter.se/in-english-2/

PLAYGROUNDS

Express your playfulness at one of the many playgrounds on the island – there are about 40 on Gotland. Climb, swing and balance at Hästarnas Dal close to Östercentrum in Visby or at Almedalen’s playground. When in southern Gotland, you will find Tottes Täppu, a rustic playground next to Bottarve museum.

BUNGE MUSEUM

The Bunge Museum guides the whole family through historical environments, from the landed farmer’s farmstead to the crofter’s humble abode. In the Children’s Shop, business is done the old way, and playful souls can try their hand at Gotland games. Services: Food and beverage cottage, shop. Website (in Swedish): bungemuseet.se

NATURUM VAMLINGBO

STAVGARD VIKING VILLAGE

In Burs parish, you will find Stavgard Viking Village – an area with remains from the Iron Age. For example, the largest long house in the Nordics that reputedly belonged to the mythical hero Beowulf. Stavgard also offers courses and guided tours for the whole family. Website (in Swedish): stavgard.se

GANGVIDE FARM

Gangvide Farm offers camping and many other activities. Here, your children can be close to small animals such as rabbits, ducks and hens – which can also be rented! You can also paddle a canoe in Närsån river or take a ride on the farm’s ponies. Services: Café. Website: gangvidefarm.se/en/

TRAMPOLINE PARK IN FÅRÖSUND

In this old military area, you can enjoy indoor trampolines. Here, anyone, young and old, can jump and learn to flip and land. Website (in Swedish): snowcamp.bokadirekt.se

See Gotland rise from the sea, test our bird jukebox or play our bush-cricket organ. Naturum has a lot to offer in teaching you of Gotland’s nature and history. Services: Café. Website: naturumgotland.se

Accommodations with an edge

From sweet dreams of the country to a modern limestone paradise.

STRANDAKAR

Experience countryside luxury at the Strandakar hotel and restaurant. The design hotel is located in south-east Gotland and has twelve modern rooms with their own outdoor terrace and generous bathroom. In the courtyard, herbs are growing and beehives are producing honey. In his restaurant, head chef Andreas uses produce from the island. In the large, quiet garden there is a plethora of orchids and birds as well as graves from the Bronze and Iron Ages. strandakar.se

Photo: Lukas Nyberg

SURFLOGIET

You will find paradise at Surflogiet in the shade of centuries-old dwarf pines on the west side of Gotland. With lapping waves as your alarm clock and the beach just outside your tent, Surflogiet is a place for being in the now and getting close to nature. You will enjoy a good night's sleep on a Hästens bed before a day of riding the waves on your surfboard. Later, you can enjoy a delicious, ecological meal with locally produced beverages at the bar, with the island's most beautiful view. surflogiet.se

HOTEL HELGEAND

This cosy, exclusive hotel is in a historical 14th century building in central Visby, with views over the Baltic Sea, the cathedral and the Helge And ruins. Stay in a room with limestone walls in gentle earthy tones, with Carpe Diem beds and fluffy duvets and modern bathrooms. The Gotland pine oiled floors give the feel of being on a farm in Gotland in another era. In addition to a delicious breakfast, you can enjoy hors d'oeuvres in front of the fire in the late afternoons and evenings. hotelhelgeand.se

VISBY BÖRS

Four-star Visby Börs hotel is at once the oldest hotel in the inner city and the youngest. In this packhouse, dating back to the 13th century, you can stay in elegant, yet sober rooms. Or, you could also stay in one of the eight turn-of-the-century rooms in the style of the 19th century. The interior design of each of the hotel rooms has been carefully selected to capture the history of the building. Mornings at Visby Börs offer a beautifully laid out, delicious breakfast buffet to start your day off. visbybors.se

DJUPVIK HOTEL

On the west coast of southern Gotland lies Djupvik Hotel with its inviting restaurant and six modern, cosy hotel rooms. Their slogan, “Beauty by the sea”, nicely sums up the hotel's view of the Karlsö islands and Djupvik fishing hamlet. The restaurant serves international flavours with Gotland influences. Those wanting to cool off can visit the hotel pool or the cosy sandy beach nearby. djupvikhotel.com

Time travel in the present When visiting Gotland, you will find yourself on a journey through time. Since the Stone Age, people have resided and made their livings, made their marks and left eternal traces on the island. When you visit ruins or a stone setting from the Bronze Age, you are standing exactly where people once lived their lives and exercised influence over the future. If you visit one of the 92 medieval churches, you will experience impressive architecture and get an idea of how important this epicentre of the parish was for the people of the Middle Ages. Nowadays, we can easily and comfortably explore the surroundings by hopping on a ferry, bus or by just tooling around in car or on a bike. It hasn’t always been this way. Just think of the effort of breaking large stones, transporting them, and constructing the city wall, harbour or a church. Just think of designing buildings without the help of a computer or calculator. Just think how difficult it was to traverse many miles on nearly non-existent roads, without a map or compass. If you were lucky, you had a horse. But how did you get it? All historic sites and monuments you see on Gotland are memories of people who were on the island. They walked the same ground, drank the same water, and ate

the local produce. They battled weather, wind, disease and hardships. But just as we do today, they also laughed, cried, were curious, expanded their horizons and attempted to understand the past, present and the future. Through the centuries, people have come to Gotland for different reasons. Some have visited temporarily, others have stayed, laid their roots and made Gotland the province it is today. Now, there are a lot of people who come to Gotland to eat good food, feel the heartbeat of the past, swim on the miles and miles of beaches, visit friends, enjoy the beauty of nature, make long-lasting memories or to escape temporarily. The journey over the Baltic is an event in itself. The big, comfortable ferries that take you over are part of the experience. You will begin to experience the feel of Gotland in the ship’s restaurant or in a comfortable lounge chair. We hope our brief history lesson gives you a bit of perspective and makes your trip more memorable and filled with amazing experiences.

Ship names with a history

Destination Gotland's and parent company Rederi AB's ferries are named after the history they were part of. Through the years, ships named Thjelvar, Drotten, Visborg, Hansa and Gute have run. And naturally, Visby and Gotland. You can read more about these names and places in our exciting History of Gotland article.

Photo: Rederi AB Gotland archive

TOPICS OF INTEREST

Gotland’s dramatic past

When did the first people actually come to Gotland and why have we found so much silver treasure here? Why is it that saffron pancake is so popular here? How long have people been travelling over the Baltic? We asked Lars Kruthof, programme responsible teacher at Gotlands Museum, to help us answer these questions.

When the Ice Age drew its last breath almost 10,000 years ago, people began to make their way north. Even to Gotland, as seen by skeletal and habitation remains. “During the Stone Age, people were mostly gatherers, seal hunters and fishermen, but eventually, trade grew in importance. Our location in the middle of the Baltic made us an ideal hub for trade. Here, people could restock their stores and exchange goods. Travel was important even then,” Lars Kruthof explains.

Incredibly wealthy travellers

The many ship settings, cairns and grave sites in Gotland tell the story of multi-faceted Bronze and Iron Age communities. Later, during the Viking and Middle Ages, Gotland became one of wealthiest areas in Europe. Gutnian trade farmers took long journeys for trade between the western and eastern parts of Europe and brought back silver and gold treasure. Still to this day, impressive Viking and Middle Age treasures can be found. “If you happen to encounter an old coin or treasure, leave it be and immediately contact The County Administrative Board,” Kruthof encourages.

When the Vikings became Middle Agers

“It’s difficult to draw a clear line between the Viking Ages and the Middle Ages. Today, we use the delineation as a means of categorisation. Sure, you can say that the progress of Christianity is central, but the people living back then didn’t know they came from a particular Age. Culturally, there are items such as typical Viking jewellery that made it into the 12th century. In simplistic terms, houses were built of timber in the Viking Age and of stone in the Middle Ages.”

Hanseatic cities and hot ports

Until the end of the 14th century, there was a heavily trafficked harbour where Almedalen is today. There were a number of substantial harbours along the Gotland coast which were vital hubs then, just as they are now. During the Middle Ages, Visby was an important Hanseatic city. The Hanseatic League was a confederation of cities that traded successfully in the North Sea and the Baltic from the mid-1100s to the mid-1600s. It was

“Gute is simply an old word for resident of Gotland.”

during the 15th century that the Hanseatic League was at its peak. “Visby, with its strategic location, was considered a big city during the Middle Ages. Not only was the city inhabited by Germans or the residents of Visby, but there were also Novgorod Russians, people from the Baltic area and many others. It was a highly multi-cultural city, flourishing from trade,” says Kruthof. Are there underground passages in Visby? “No, of that I’m certain.” Why was the city wall constructed? “Originally, the wall was probably built as a means to collect tolls and taxes from Gotland residents outside Visby to control trade in the city. Later, it was reinforced to become more of a defence fortification.” How is it that we enjoy saffron pancakes? “This is a brilliant example of how Gotland has been open to influence. Our most important dessert contains a spice that is imported from a great distance away. It is otherwise rather typical of the Middle Ages, rather pudding-like, flavoured with an exclusive spice.” Why is so much silver treasure found on the island? “Trade provided a good income – unfortunately, partly through the slave trade to the east. The silver was brought here and buried, primarily during the Viking Age. It's likely that it was done for religious and cultural reasons.”

were soon gone. A sense of national pride did not come until much later. Even now, a person’s greatest pride may be in belonging to their village. A Lärbro resident first, a Gotland resident second, and a Swede third.” What is the Visborg fortress? “It was most likely erected by the Teutonic Order, present between 1398 and 1407. They started to construct a fortress for defence, but then sold Gotland to Erik av Pommern. He continued to expand the fortress, which was later where the county governors would land when not ravaging. Today, there is a small model of Visborg in its original location in Visby, just above the current harbour.” Did people travel to Gotland for pleasure during the Middle Ages? “People probably made very few trips for pleasure during the Middle Ages. However, travel for trade was not unusual. Wealthier people could travel for studies. Anyone who committed a crime or did anything else disreputable could go on a pilgrimage as a form of penance.” To learn more about Gotland’s exciting history, visit Gotlands Museum Fornsalen or book a guided tour.

Are the Gutes the people who lived in the countryside and not Visby? “No, Gute is simply an old word for resident of Gotland.” Why are there so many churches on Gotland? “Laws were governed by Christianity. The church was the natural epicentre of the village. Because Gotland enjoyed an extremely wealthy period during the Middle Ages, a lot of stately churches were built. Paradoxically, Gotland went through a time of extreme poverty after the Middle Ages, but there was no need or opportunity to demolish or rebuild the churches as there was in other places. The churches were allowed to remain. Much later, some were renovated, but others perished and became the ruins that we find so beautiful today.” When did Gotland become Swedish? “Sometime during the late Viking Age/early Middle Ages, there were negotiations to make Gotland part of Sweden. Danish king Valdemar invaded the island in 1361 after which, Gotland belonged to Denmark almost consecutively until 1645. It was then, during the peace of Brömsebro, that we became Swedes. Admittedly, the Russians were here and claimed the island for a few months in the beginning of the 19th century, but they

“Saffron pancakes are a brilliant example of how Gotland has been open to influence.”

Tropical sea to ice age 444 million years BCE

ORDOVICIAN

SILURIAN

419 million years BCE

359 million years BCE

DEVONIAN

CARBONIFEROUS

299 million years BCE

PERMIAN

252 million

Gotland's history begins long before Europe or any other of today’s continents saw the light of day. Four-hundred-thirty million years ago, during the Silurian period, there were coral reefs in a tropical ocean along the coast of an ancient continent in the southern hemisphere. There, organisms with calcareous shells lived. When they died and sank towards the bottom, they eventually formed Gotland's bedded limestone. The limestone skeleton of the coral reefs became the hard reef limestone. “Huge amounts of sediment eventually became part of the continent's hardened bedrock. Naturally, this took many millions of years. Gotland's Silurian bedrock with reef limestone is among the world's best preserved,” says geologist Sara Eliason, who works at Gotlands Museum Fornsalen.

Colliding continents and dinosaurs

It took several hundred million years for the continents to collide, be torn apart and move to their present-day location. The reef limestone land areas moved to the current latitudes – at a rate of a few centimetres per year. In the end, the ancient Scandinavian Peninsula continent and the sediment layers became part of the Baltic area's bedrock. Gotland, as well as Öland and parts of the Baltics, belong to these ancient reefs and seabeds. Lots of periods, such as the Devonian, Carboniferous, Permian, Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous, passed. Different plant and animal species came and went. When the dinosaurs roamed the Earth, large parts of southern Sweden were coastal areas. There were both gigantic marine animals and large land dinosaurs. In Skåne, fossils of these animals have been found, while Gotland has no sediment layers preserved from this time. Two million years ago, the continents were much like they are today. Lots of mammals evolved and the vegetation was reminiscent of today's flora. And time went on. When the last Ice Age ended about 14,000 years ago, Gotland was first covered by water. The ice withdrew and Gotland slowly rose above the water's surface. Eventually people found their way here, but that's a different story, a Stone Age story.

years BCE

TRIASSIC

201 million years BCE

JURASSIC

How rauks are formed

The bedrock of Gotland is largely made up of hard reef limestone. Between the fossil reefs lie compressed, bedded limestone and muddy marl. The sea slowly eroded away the softer parts of the bedrock, but the harder reef limestone fared better. Limestone stacks – rauks – remained. There are rauks elsewhere in the world, but Gotland is home to some of the most magnificent.

Fossils – historical remains

Fossils are the remains of dead animal or plant parts preserved in sediment and certain types of rock. “Gotland is one of the best places in the world for those looking for fossils. In both the reef limestone and the bedded limestone you will find many different kinds of animals that lived on and around the reefs, such as corals, shells, octopuses, bryozoans, trilobites, brachiopods and sea lilies," Sara Eliason explains.

Travelled from north to south and in time

Facts about Gotland stone

• Limestone is a common building material for Gotland houses. When the stone is sawn or sanded, it turns white and its fossils are no longer visible. • If you find greystone on Gotland, it has been dragged here by the ice sheet. • The reddish limestone from Hoburgen is called "Hoburg marble". It is full of fossils and is the provincial stone of Gotland. • Sandstone, which consists of compressed sand, is only found on southernmost Gotland.

All the layers of limestone that constitute Gotland were formed during different times. It can be said that Gotland's limestone bedrock consists of layers stretched “diagonally” over Gotland. “If you go from north to south on Gotland, you can see how nature and the surroundings change significantly. This is because there are different layers of limestone bedrock. Put simplistically, you could say that you are traversing millions of years when you move over the different layers of bedrock. Each layer also has its own unique composition of fossils, which are remnants from a certain period. So there are some fossils that you only find in a certain part of Gotland," says Sara Eliason. Footnote: For this article, we have received expert help from Sara Eliason, geologist at Gotlands Museum Fornsalen. Please visit the museum for thrilling tours of Gotland’s history.

145 million years BCE

2,6 million years BCE

66 million years BCE

CRETACEOUS

TERTIÄR KVARTÄR

Stone Ages to late Middle Ages Stone Age (13 000 – 1 700 BCE)

About 9,000 years ago, when the ice sheet had retreated from Gotland, the first people started coming here. They were mainly fishermen and hunters and the remains of habitations have been found on Stora Karlsö, among other places. Gotland was smaller in surface area than it is today, sea level was much higher. There were many lakes and streams, open moorland and forests with both pine and deciduous trees.

Bronze Age (1 700 – 500 BCE)

Photo: Roger Arleryd

The people of Gotland devoted a lot of time to hunting and fishing, but slowly agriculture and animal husbandry began to become more prevalent. Trade in handicrafts and bronze spread through migratory people. Many objects from this era, mainly axes and knives, have been found on Gotland. In the Bronze Age, rock carvings were made depicting ships, warriors, ceremonies and animals. Other memorials on the island from this time are stone cairns, a kind of burial monument. Gotland has over 1,000 stone cairns – the highest being eight meters tall. At the end of the Bronze Age, the Gotlanders began to make ship settings – stones that stand tall in boat-like formations – as graves. There are around 350 on the island, the most famous of which is Tjelvar's grave on eastern Gotland.

13 000 – 1 700 BCE

1 700 – 500 BCE

STONE AGE

BRONZE AGE

Photo: Therese Hübner

Iron Age (500 BCE – 1 050 CE)

Gotlanders became skilled blacksmiths after they learned ironworks around 500 BCE. They built large houses with robust stone foundations, the remains of which are found on Gotland. Around the time of Christ's birth, Gotlanders were in much closer contact with the outside world. Remnants of this time include gold coins, glass beakers and Roman statuettes. It is also at this time that they started building smaller houses out of wood and developed cultivation.

The Viking Age

The Viking Age is the end of the Iron Age. Gotland's strategic location in the Baltic Sea increased trade travel. The Gotlanders mainly travelled east. Their wealth grew. Over 700 silver treasures from the Viking Age have been found in Gotland soil. Runes and picture stones tell of long journeys to faraway countries. Around 1000 CE, Christianity became more prevalent. But the Gotlanders continued to bury their dead with clothes, jewellery and ornaments, worship pagan gods and sacrifice food, drink, livestock and people. We know this from finds and the written Guta Saga.

Middle Ages (1 050 – 1 500)

International trade was booming and shipping was on the rise. In the 12th century, the Viking port of Visby is the island's commercial metropolis. A lot of foreign merchants move in. The Hanseatic League – a trade confederation between merchants in the Baltic Sea region – and low taxes make Gotlanders rich. This meant, among other things, that it was possible to build magnificent merchant houses in Visby and that the farms in the countryside were stately. At the end of the 13th century, Visby residents built the city wall to shut out the farmers. The divisions between city and country lead to a civil war on Gotland in 1288. During the period 1200 – 1350, most churches were also built. Every parish needed to have a stately church. In 1350, the plague, or "black death" ravaged Gotland. A third of the island's population perished and eleven years later Danish King Valdemar Atterdag conquered Gotland in a bloody battle. Danes, Teutonic Order Knights and Nordic Union kings alternated through positions of power. Visborg Castle was founded by Danes in the 15th century. Denmark handed Gotland over to Sweden with the Peace of Brömsebro in 1645. Then the Danish military returned once again. They destroyed Visborg Castle before leaving the island in 1679. Facts from: Gotlands Museum Fornsalen, and Region Gotland.

500 BCE – 1 050 CE

1 050 – 1 500 CE

IRON AGE (AND VIKING AGE)

MIDDLE AGES

The 18 century to today th

Much of what characterises Gotland today, with tourism and travel in focus, has its roots in what was happening in the 18th and 19th centuries. Many of the island's resplendent buildings from that time are still around. Travel to and from the island has long been of importance. Did you know that steamboats traversed the Baltic carrying travellers longing for Gotland as early as in the 19th century? And that during the Second World War, casualties were shipped here to receive care at what was the most modern hospital at the time? The 18th century saw an upswing in trade and commerce, resulting in a rise in construction. The number of homes in Visby doubled. They were built of stone to reduce the risk of fire and to preserve the forest. Many of the old packhouses were refurbished. In around 1785, Visby had more than 5,000 residents and was the fifth largest city in Sweden. In 1808, during the Finnish War, Russia occupied the island, but the Swedes came to the rescue and took it back. During the 19th century, Gotlanders began to care for and preserve their ruins, including the wall surrounding Visby. And Visby became one of the most popular tourist destinations in the entire country. During the Crimean War in 1853, a great number of British sailors became afflicted with cholera and were buried at the English cholera cemetery on Fårö. At the end of the 19th century, Visby became a shipping port for increased industrialisation. All rail lines that were built had Roma as their starting point. Until the end of the 19th century, fishing was a common way to supplement income obtained through agriculture, which is seen in the fact that many small fishing villages were built. With the increase of commercial fishing in the 20th century, a great number of buildings in the villages were abandoned.

1785: Visby is Sweden's fifth largest city with over 5,000 inhabitants.

1853: British sailors are afflicted with cholera and buried on Fårö.

1808: Russia occupies Gotland, which is soon returned to Sweden.

1866: Steamship company Gotland is established. 1878: First railroad for general traffic.

At the end of the 19th century, Visby is a shipping harbour and the railroad is expanded. Fishing is a common pasttime and Gotland is a budding tourist destination. 1780

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In the late 19th century, Gotland was a budding tourist destination for the well-to-do. Ljugarn was Gotland’s first seaside resort. The first commercial steamboat traffic from Visby to the mainland was started in 1866 by Ångfartygsbolaget Gotland, later Rederi AB Gotland. In 1878, the first passenger trains traversed the stretch between Visby and Hemse. Eventually, Burgsvik in the south and Lärbro in the north were included. In the mid-1900s, a limestone quarry was established in Slite and a sugar mill in Roma. Loads and loads of limestone and sugar beets were transported by rail. During both World Wars, the military had a very strong presence on Gotland. Significant parts of Gotland were therefore closed to foreign tourists during the entire century and a couple of years into the 21st. Between the years of 1939 and 1946, Lärbro war hospital was the most modern hospital in all of Sweden. Here, refugees, capitulated soldiers and concentration camp victims from the horrors of the Second World War were cared for. The war hospital was later converted into a penal institution. In 1944, the Hansa Catastrophe occurred when the Gotland passenger boat SS Hansa was hit by a Russian torpedo and sank. Eighty-four of the 86 people on board perished in what was the greatest seafaring catastrophe in Sweden since the 17th century. During the 1950s and 60s, many of the smaller limestone quarries were shut down. Large-scale operations were the new thing. Some of the discontinued quarries are now popular swimming holes. In 1968, Almedalen Week was instituted when then Prime Minister Olof Palme held a speech from a lorry flatbed near Almedalen. The year 1991 saw the first time that all Swedish political party leaders participated in what is now a traditional event. Visby was named a World Heritage City in 1995. In 2003, the new high-speed ferries from Visby to Oskarshamn and Nynäshamn became operational. In 2019, Destination Gotland started using new, LNG-powered vessels, which have great environmental benefits. LNG stands for Liquefied Natural Gas. At the end of the 19th century, a journey over the Baltic in the steam ships of the time took 13 hours. Today, the same journey takes about three hours in comfortable high-speed ferries. Lucky for those of us who love to travel to Gotland! 1991: All political parties participate in Almedalen Week.

1939 – 1946: Lärbro war hospital is Sweden's most modern hospital. 1944: The Hansa Catastrophe Military presence is great on Gotland during the World Wars. 1910

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1995: Visby is named World Heritage City.

1968: Almedalen Week starts.

2019: New, gaspowered LNG vessels.

2003: High-speed ferries

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Bunker love and a thrilling history Gotland, rather exposed in the Baltic Sea, has always been a place worth defending. Through the ages, Gotlanders, or whoever was in power at the time, built impressive defence fortresses that made their impression on the environment. You can visit some of these sites to get a feel for what things were like in the past and what they are like now. Look, but don’t touch

Take a close look at the remnants of centuries of various military mobilisations. But do not enter closed areas and never ever pick up items that could be military objects and explosive. Even today, the military is active on Gotland. Don't be alarmed if a fighter jet roars overhead, or a column of military vehicles comes rolling along. If there's a camouflage-clad soldier crawling around in your mushroom forest, it's probably just an exercise. If you hear explosions around you and it is not hunting season, it is probably the Swedish Armed Forces exercising on land, at sea or in the air. As early as in the Middle Ages, fortresses and other types of defences were built as protection from invasion and other threats. When the Second World War broke out, Gotland found itself in a very interesting position. Various forms of defence were erected. Did you know that only Swedish citizens were permitted to visit Fårö and certain other strategic military areas between 1939 and 1998? Many protective bunkers were built and can be seen here and there along the coast. Even large caverns have been preserved.

Concrete and steel given new life

Regardless of where you are on the island, you are never far from a decommissioned military facility. In many places you can see decommissioned facilities, trench bunkers, exercise fields and steel, concrete and barbed wire installations. Today they are monuments of the past. Just as old industrial environments can be charming, military remains can also take on a charm when nature takes over the area or people begin to use the environments in new ways. Old concrete bunkers can be repurposed to restaurants or fascinating accommodations. The military bunker at Bungenäs has been revamped into a cool designer hotel and Fårösund's former barracks and military exercise area are now home to a centre for creating films, a workout facility and homes with exciting architecture. In Salthamn north of Visby, you can go for a wine tasting in an old military entrenchment. The old P18 area in Visby is being developed into a living area with offices, elderly care homes, schools and residences. Military instalments have become spectacular and popular.

GOTLAND'S TOP FIVE MILITARY REMNANTS … if we disregard the Visby city wall

Tofta shooting range – Scenic area that is once again in use after reinstating the P18 Gotland regiment. The annual, extremely muddy Enduro competition Gotland Grand National is held here. For much of the year, access is prohibited. Be very careful to check that visits to the area are permitted – at other times it is prohibited and can put your life in danger. Tingstäde fortress – This fortress was completed just in time for the First World War. Here you can visit long underground passageways and secret rooms, buried in the ground. A military museum can also be found in Tingstäde. Fårösund fortress – This fortress was built at the end of the 19th century to give Sweden a safe outpost in troubled times. It was decommissioned and converted into a hotel – still surrounded by barbed wire and strange spear-like objects. Karlsvärd fortress – On the small island of Enholmen outside Slite, Karlsvärd Fortress and two abitises, donjons, were built. These were completed in 1858. Today you can take a boat trip and get a guided tour of the grand building. Bulwark – In the Tingstäde Träsk inland lake, you can find the remains of a large fortification built in a square with 170 metre-long sides. The wooden fortress was built in the 1130s and was composed of large boxes made of rough logs, where saddle notched houses stood on a floor. The logs remain at the bottom of the lake. We still do not know everything about this peculiar structure.

Visby

THE HANSEATIC CITY Attractions Food & Drink Shopping Accommodations Service

The best-preserved Mediaeval city in Scandinavia spoils its residents and visitors with beautiful sea views, cosy cobblestone alleys and stately floral splendours amongst old buildings and ruins. The city is perfect for meandering through with a new experience around every corner. Here are a few tips, though the city offers many more lovely spots for you to discover on your own.

Popular photo-worthy views and motifs KÄRLEKSPORTEN Harness romance at the Kärleksporten “Love Gate”. This round-arched passageway, facing a scene of fiery sunsets off the beach promenade, is a motif worth immortalising. ALMEDALEN Mediaeval harbour and beloved city park. The lush greenery of Almedalen is in the foreground of the sea wall and the silhouette of the city of Visby. THE CLIFF ABOVE THE CATHEDRAL The view at the cliff overlooking St. Maria Cathedral is a panorama of Visby city centre. The sea is the backdrop of the city's many church ruins and mediaeval buildings. KRÖNET A lovely view of Visby city spreads out from the viewpoint of Krönet. The terracotta roof tiles are in contrast with the sea and horizon. FISKARGRÄND This long, narrow alley is one of Visby’s most photographed. Cobblestones meet red roses and, in the background, one of the towers of the St. Mary Cathedral makes an appearance. VÅRDKLOCKEGATAN Along Vårdklockegatan, you can capture a panorama view of the southern part of Visby city centre. This viewpoint displays the city's architecture from above.

Top 3 sights St. Mary's Cathedral The City Wall

Domkyrkan St. Maria

The Botanical Gardens

Ringmuren

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1. THE HARBOUR 2. ALMEDALEN

3. STRANDGATAN

4. St. HANSGATAN

5. DONNERS PLATS 6. HÄSTGATAN

7. STORA TORGET 8. ADELSGATAN

9. ÖSTERCENTRUM

The Harbour

RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS Mels, hamburger restaurant that serves burgers and milkshakes the American way and is filled with retro kitsch from the 1950s. Glassmagasinet, Sweden’s largest ice cream bar offering over 200 flavours of ice cream and sorbet! Trossen, summer restaurant with salads and barbecue dishes on the menu. Joda, popular year-round restaurant. Known for its nachos. Sunny outdoor seating, roomy bar, courtyard and events venue for hire. Österdahls brygga, fish and shellfish restaurant whose owner is also the chef. Located on “Holmen”, outside the small vessel harbour with a view of Visby. ACCOMMODATIONS Visby jail, built in 1857, also known as Sjumastarn and is now a hostel with accommodations in cabins or cells. The restaurant next to it is open during the summer. SERVICES Gotland’s bike rentals, large assortment of hybrid, mountain and other types of bikes. Popular packages including a trailer and camping gear. The Visby train, offers a 25-minute historical trip around Visby’s city wall. Visby guest harbour, appreciated blue-flag-ranked guest harbour with service and reception, electricity, showers, kitchen, laundry facilities, etc.

RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS Kallis, well-known night and beach club with after beach parties, summer café and restaurant. Kallis is renowned throughout Europe for its guest DJs and summer parties. Strands veranda, with a panorama view of the sea and sunset, they offer food and drink in the summer. Villa Alma’s, restaurant with evening service, housed in the Villa Alma hotel in the middle of Almedalen, serving Asian cuisine. SHOPPING Ödins garveri, in an old ‘bulhus’ building, a type of architecture specific to Gotland, you will find this tannery selling Gotland lambskin and all sorts of leather. A privately owned studio that also takes special orders.

Volare, theme restaurant with wine as its focal point. Substantial wine list and hors-d’oeuvres. Wine courses and tastings, and the restaurant's very own wine quiz for those wanting to test their knowledge. Lindgården, classic Gotland restaurant with seasonal menu. Gin bar with a great assortment and outdoor serving in the courtyard where mullberry and walnut trees are growing. Brödernas, restaurant and sports bar specialising in burgers. Outdoor under-roof seating with heaters prolongs the feel of summer. Matsalen med Takbaren, this classic hotel restaurant has a modern kitchen that follows the seasons. It also boasts a roof-top bar with a view of the city and sea. Fornsalen café & mat, serves lunch, coffee and pastries and fresh-baked goods. Open year round.

ACCOMMODATIONS Villa Alma, personally decorated boutique hotel with a view of the water and city. South-facing terrace and its own restaurant.

SHOPPING Gotlandssmycken, jewellery produced from fossils and silver from Gotland. The hand-milled fossils were found on Gotland.

SERVICES Sockenbastu sauna, at Kallis, you can enjoy a sauna and dip in the sea, year round. Next to it, there is a long pier and a small sandy beach, not to mention a kiosk that is open during the summer. Wisby Strand, the city's largest conference facility with a congress hall for 1,000 guests, a restaurant kitchen and meeting rooms. Almedalsbiblioteket library, inspiring library and meeting place with café, newspapers and a view of Almedalen. Large collection of Gotland literature.

ACCOMMODATIONS Visby börs, 4-star hotel housed in a mediaeval packhouse. Sleep like royalty under a canopy in the century suites of the hotel, time-appropriate interiors. Kalk hotel, boutique hotel with details in Gotland limestone. Strand hotel, a cosy hotel that is part of Best Western. Relaxation centre with indoor pool and sauna.

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Almedalen

ATTRACTIONS Almedalen, formerly Visby's harbour in mediaeval times, is currently a green park with a playground and outdoor stage where politicians make their Almedalen Week speeches. Kruttornet, is the city wall’s oldest tower, erected in the 12th century as a defence tower, a donjon, for protecting the old harbour. It has been a jail and a place for storing gunpowder (krut), which is where the name comes from. Open during the summer.

Strandgatan

ATTRACTIONS Gotlands museum Fornsalen, here, Gotland’s entire history and natural and cultural heritage are collected. Picture stones, church art and a great treasure trove of Viking and Mediaeval finds. At the children’s and family exhibition Skepp & Skoj (Ship Ahoy), everyone can pretend to be a Viking, sail and tie knots. The Gamla Apoteket pharmacy stepped gable building, mediaeval packhouse built during the 13th century, now known as Sweden’s oldest rental building. RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS Lulu sushi & poké bar, their menu boasts a melding of Asian and South American flavours. Cosy restaurant in the basement of an old mediaeval packhouse.

St. Hansgatan

ATTRACTIONS Gotlands bryggeri brewery, in this place 20 years ago, Wisby Klosteröl beer made its debut. Since then, many highly appreciated brews have come from their copper boilers. Brewery tours with beer tasting. Drotten and St. Lars, the two, side-by-side, mediaeval sister churches along St. Hansgatan are now exciting ruins after having been abandoned during the reformation. Open June–October. RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS Black Sheep Arms, an English pub with musical entertainment every weekend. British menu and large assortment of beers. Beer garden in the back. Vår Fru, sour dough waffles, natural wines and cocktails, served in a lush courtyard. The Ateljén restaurant is a newcomer with room for twelve guests. Ett rum för resande, breakfast, lunch and coffee with Italian flavours, by Zadok, who makes his own pasta and serves freshly baked goods every day.

Donners Plats

ATTRACTIONS Burmeisterska huset house, saddle notched house erected by German merchant Hans Burmeister in the mid 1600s. The house is known for its beautiful interior paintings on the bottom floor and in the upstairs hall. RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS Kitchen & table, in the Clarion Hotel, Marcus Samuelsson provides a feel of Manhattan in his theme restaurant. Cocktails and Gotland truffles, asparagus and ramson are the mix. Sober, restaurant, bar and nightclub. Small dishes and pizza. Outdoor seating and DJs every evening in the summer. SHOPPING Kvinnfolki, crafts and present shop as well as delicacies from Gotland’s craftswomen. Open year round.

ACCOMMODATIONS Clarion Wisby hotel, modern first-class hotel in buildings from the 13th century and onward. Winter garden, spa with pool in mediaeval environment. Donners hotell, Best Western hotel with modern rooms and suites. SERVICES Turistbyrå, tourist information on all of Gotland, tickets to events, bus cards, books and maps. Open year round. Avis car rentals, rent a car and see all of Gotland, from the Old Man of Hoburg in the south to Fårö in the north.

Wisby ost, Gotland's largest cheese shop with high-class cheeses, deli meats and local produce. Organises cheese & wine tastings. La Vie, lifestyle shop with interior design, crafts, jewellery, clothing, textiles, Gotland spices and foods and Gotland designer products. Dick guld & silver, jeweller and workshop. Hand-made jewellery and collections. Irisdals blomsterhandel, flower shop with history. Since the 1930s and very knowledgeable of all things green. Supplies weddings, events, decorations and funerals. Klockia, watch shop with a great assortment of fashion watches. Also home to certified watchmakers. ACCOMMODATIONS Hotell Repet hotel, decorated in gentle greys and the rich blues of the sea. A number of top-floor studios and penthouses. A roof terrace for all guests.

Photo: Henrik Löwenhamn

SHOPPING Antikvariat Drotten antiquities, a wealth of books, fantasy, Gotlandica, postcards, comic books, film posters and so much more for those who prefer paper to devices. Linarve, hand-picked, select brands and suppliers for women seeking personalised attire, jewellery and shoes made of natural materials. Gotlands strumpfabrik, artfully made socks from a barn in Boge. The shop also carries clothing and accessories, all locally produced from natural materials. Franchells, exclusive interior design and designer objects. Things you won’t find anywhere else. Design and crafts, offers a wide assortment of quality yarns and knitting accessories. Pewter crafts, fittings and furnishings. Lewin creation, clothing and furnishings in Lewin’s own design. Many wool and leather creations. Annika Gustafsson jewellery, jeweller with her own collection inspired by the island’s nature. Yllet inredning, yarn from Gotland wool, mohair and various others. Indoor and outdoor furniture, textiles, mats and toys in natural materials. Ester och Inez, slow fashion, sustainable fashion and ecological clothing. Akantus, a smart mix of new and vintage in the interior design shop where Gotland antiques are combined with Tove Adman's designer products. Manti Manti, repurposes salvaged and recycled materials into décor and collector’s items. Collaborates with local artists and craftsmen.

SERVICES Biostaden Borgen, ultra-modern cinema with six theatres showing current films year round.

Hästgatan

RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS Italienaren, with a menu filled with Italian dishes and wines. The building dates back to the Middle Ages. Outdoor seating with a bar during the summer. Barkemi, cocktail bar and taqueria focused on drinks and tacos inspired by Mexico. Vinäger, a meeting place and oasis with a beautiful back yard from the 17th century. DJs, cocktail bar and small dishes. Open during the summer. St. Hans café, garden café in the St. Hans Church ruins. Breakfast and coffee with home-made pastries and baked goods. Lunch menu by season. H10 bar & café, breakfast, extensive lunch menu, home-made pastries, lovely atmosphere, located in a small shopping centre. Creperiet, serves French galettes and crepes with local toppings. Located in the Strykjärnshuset building on Wallers Plats and has a very special facade. Kasai, modern Japanese dinner club on three floors: Terrace at the top, restaurant in the middle, and nightclub downstairs. Jessens saluhall & bar, delicatessen and restaurant with products from Gotland and southern Europe. Lunch service – the Saluhall fish soup is renowned. Shawarma bar, Lebanese restaurant. Shawarma (a type of kebab) and falafel are on the menu. SHOPPING Kränku te & kaffe, here, you will find teas, coffees and sweets in bulk sold over the counter the old-fashioned way. Over 100 types of tea and 40 of their own tea blends. Chocolate, presents and porcelain section. H10 market, a small shopping centre with fashion, interior design, lifestyle and second-hand shops. Makalös & tidsfördriv, personalised interior decorating shop carrying select manufacturers and suppliers. GKF, stands for Gotländska Konsthantverkare & Formgivare (Gotlands Artisans & Designers). Here, members have a shop and gallery filled with clothing, art and crafts.

Stora Torget

ATTRACTIONS St. Katarina ruin, also called St. Karin. Was originally built by the Franciscan Order (mendicant monks) as a cloister church for the Visby convent founded in 1233. St. Maria cathedral, Visby cathedral and parish church for the Visby cathedral parish. During the Middle Ages, the church was also referred to as “The Church of Our Lady” and was originally built as a guest church for German merchants. RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS Surfers, kitschy restaurant and bar with food inspired by the Sichuan area in south-east China. Lots of small dishes for sharing. Café Amalia, serves breakfast and lunch. Always home-made and healthy, with the opportunity to sit outside. Backyard, retro restaurant serving international food and with a large range of beers. Warfsholms bageri, classic Gotland bakery, open year round. Uses Gotland flour from Labans Mill. Gamla masters, block restaurant with the slogan "Like home, but better", meaning nice, normal, everyday interior design. Mille lire, a tiny piece of Rome with its brick oven and crunchy pizza crusts. Bolaget, the sunniest outdoor restaurant on the square, bar, including wine, French inspired menu. Bakfickan, small fish and shellfish restaurant with great love for the sea, fish and shellfish. Delicatessen where you can purchase goods to take home. Rosengården, classic lunch and dinner restaurant with outdoor seating next to the St. Karin church ruins.

Nunnan, in mediaeval surroundings, Vasilis serves Greek, Swedish and continental foods. Often featuring live music and mingling. Bageriet mat och bar, simple, country food by season. A lot of vegetables and local produce on the menu. Isola bella, canteen in a vault from the Middle Ages. Serves pizza. Lunch and dinner, and brunch on the weekends. Brooklyn burgers, all burgers are done medium-well and are served with freshly baked buns from Brödboden. Classic starters, sides and desserts. Munkkällaren, popular dining and entertainment. Outdoor seating on the roof and square, several roof terraces with music-themed bars. Cuisine in a Middle Age environment. Tocar madera, Spanish tapas restaurant with flavours from the Mediterranean. Eden tapas & bar, in a historical protected building with paintings from the 18th century, small dishes and tapas from all over the world are served. SHOPPING Karamellboden, a sweets shop in the true spirit of Pippi Longstocking covered in sweets from floor to ceiling. Verkstan, lifestyle shop with clothing, interior design and spices. Idyllien, sells textiles, interior design, bathroom products and fragrances and is a charity company that donates some if its profits to sick children. Jordnära, own production of Gotland designer clothing in organic natural materials as well as other select brands. Branting, own confident collection of women's clothing for both everyday wear and special occasions. SERVICES ICA nära Torgkassen, inner-city grocery shop.

Adelsgatan

RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS Adelita taqueria & tequila, Mexican with tacos for lunch and dinner. Salsa evenings where you can dance your heart away and sip cold Margaritas. Brygghuset, beer pub with simple dishes and over 100 kinds of beer, many from local breweries. Events with quizzes and live music. Coq & vin, French-inspired restaurant. Outdoor seating during the summer. Wine and champagne tastings. Meza, serving Lebanese cuisine. Meza, small dishes and pizza. Outdoor seating during the summer. Meat in bread, Sweden’s new national dishes, kebab and pizza, are served here on an entirely different level.

Green factory, a real salad bar with a large variety of greens and toppings. Wraps and healthy drinks. 800 grader, serves delicious pizza slices. Outdoor seating. Brorsan, Korean culinary delight with bibimbap and dumplings on the menu. Bad wolf bbq, meat restaurant with American-Mexican feeling. Menu featuring spareribs, burritos and quesadillas. Outdoor seating. Baren, bar and restaurant serving simple bar food. Outdoor seating. Wisby hof, wall-to-wall with the city wall, this restaurant serves Austrian cuisine with heady beer taps, wienerschnitzel and apfelstudel. Outdoor seating during the summer. Brödboden Södertorg, cake shop and café with sandwiches and a well-stocked bread shelf. Outdoor seating both in front and back. SHOPPING Olars Ulla, creator of self-designed, sustainable women's clothing in natural materials. Fröjel retro & art, with passion for interior design and art. A well-stocked shop with Scandinavian designs from the 1940s to the 1970s. Wisby ur & guld, large assortment of well-known gem, jewellery and watch brands. Mojo independent store, trendy clothing for men and women. Many brands to try and choose from. Julia Hultgren, fashion for both men and women. Select clothing brands. Malmgrens, large assortment of trendy women's clothing, swimsuits and underwear. Picco, baby, children’s and maternity clothing for everyday or special occasions. Wessman & Pettersson bokhandel book shop, knowledgeable staff guide you among books, office supplies and magazines. Friendhs, is a company owned by a brother and sister who have hand-selected men's and women’s clothing brands. Odds guld, established goldsmith with their own collection of historical jewellery. Wedding and engagement rings for those so inclined. Synsam, large selection of glasses, contact lenses and sunglasses. Optician and vision tests. Kustnära, furniture, interior design, food, bubbly and coffee. Gotland chokladfabrik, organic, small-scale chocolates with bean-to-bar and bean-to-bonbon. ACCOMMODATIONS

Hotel Villa Borgen, a peiceful hotel with a cosy backyard.

Östercentrum

RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS Fiket, coffee and pastries, soup and salad lunch, grilled sandwiches and salads. Outdoor seating along the city wall. Indian corner, Indian restaurant featuring everything from papadum to paneer, at different heat levels. Siesta conditori & café, meeting place on Öster with pastries, sandwiches and coffee. Stora Ego, entirely vegan restaurant and café with lunches and buffets featuring local produce. Kafé Mirell, vegetarian/vegan restaurant/café with freshly baked goods, salad and substantial sandwiches. McDonalds, yes, even found on Gotland. SHOPPING Clas Ohlson, retail chain selling electronic accessories, hardware, household items and sports gear. Åhléns, department store with a great assortment of shoes, toys, makeup, clothing, furniture and interior design. H&M, retail chain with trendy clothes, swimwear, accessories and shoes. Rituals, specialised in cosmetics and fragrances. Din sko, large assortment of shoes, featuring a number of different brands. Carlings, focused on young fashion and new trends. Lots of jeans. Flying Tiger Copenhagen, sells toys and gifts. SERVICES Taxi, Östercentrum taxi station where you can always find an available car. Apotek Liljan, open every day, 9 am to 7 pm. Systembolag, Visby's alcoholic beverage shop. Coop Öster, grocery store with cheese, sandwich meats, meat and fish sold over the counter. Pressbyrån, sweets, magazines, lottery tickets. Open every day of the week. Visby hyrcykel, various bike models, mopeds and bike gear such as trailers, child seats and camping gear.

Coastal hikes The island boasts numerous hiking trails through Gotland's scenery, including barren coastlines, fishing hamlets, lush meadows and sea stacks. So lace up your hiking boots and explore the nature that the island has to offer. Adequately equipped and with good planning, you can enjoy the hiking trails year round.

South of Visby, from Södra Hällarna nature reserve all the way to Tofta shooting range, the coast is dominated by steep cliffs and stony beaches.

The Klintkustlinjen trail

Along the north west coast, the Klinkustlinjen hiking trail is being established – a still ongoing project run by the Gotland County Administrative Board. Once finished, you will be able to hike a full 50 kilometres along Brucebo and the Skansudde bird sanctuary, past Själsöån river where you can see spawning trout, all the way to the Kappelshamn settlement. The trail traverses ten different nature reserves and shifting Gotland landscapes.

Photo: Yolanta Birkhane

Grogarnsberget

Along the Stenkusten, the vast expanses are barren and the sky is almost limitless as it stretches out over the sea.

Stenkusten

The beautiful stony coastline runs from Bläse to Ar on northern Gotland. As you hike, you will encounter lovely limestone roads, fishing hamlets and pebble beaches. Along the way, you can stop off at the Limeworks Museum of Bläse and the photogenic Graustäde fishing hamlet.

Hike around Grogarnsberget on eastern Gotland – a 30-metre tall rock cliff nature reserve. Here, you find yourself inundated with magnificent Gotland views and areas shifting from rock to limestone. In the north, at the Grogarnshuvud point, you will find the ruins of Gotland’s second largest hill fort, presumably built during the Iron Age. Make a visit to the quaint fishing village of Herrvik while you are in the area.

The Ekstakusten nature reserve

One of southern Gotland's most stunning coastal strips offers four kilometres of knotty dwarf pine, scenic pebble beaches and views of the Lilla and Stora Karlsö islands. You will also pass the Djupvik and Kronvall fishing hamlets during your hike, two places well worth visiting. In the evenings, the sea reflects the sunset's burst of colour.

Stenkusten (Stone Coast)

Norsta Auren

The Klintkustlinjen trail

Södra Hällarna –Ygne

The Pilgrim trail

Katthammarsvik – Ljugarn Norsta Auren is on the north east side of Fårö island and welcomes you to its long sandy beach, rolling sand dunes and peaceful surroundings.

The Ekstakusten nature reserve

Hike along Gotland’s 800 kilometre coast or go inland for the beautiful Pilgrim trail. Whatever you choose, you will experience Gotland's nature at its best!

Photo: Yolanta Birkhane

The little chapel at St. Olofsholm is actually a warehouse that was built in 1835. It was also here that Gotland's first wooden church was erected. During the 13th century, it was replaced by a stone church, the ruins of which can still be seen on the grounds. During the Medieval Ages, many Gotlanders made the pilgrimage to St. Olofsholm, especially on 29 July when the St. Olof’s mass was held. St. Olof was the patron saint of Gotland.

Pilgrim Trail

Pilgrimages have been going on for ages and they offer a way to hike in peace and quiet while reflecting. You essentially have two destinations for your walk – your physical destination and your inner musings. As is tradition, the Pilgrim trail on Gotland goes from St. Olofsholm in north east Gotland to the Solberga abbey ruins in Visby. The trail was established in the 1990s and goes through quiet, beautiful and varied landscapes. The journey takes about two days to walk and you choose where you want to stop for the night. Along the route, you will see everything from coastline and meadows to ancient relics and a few of the 92 medieval churches found on the island. As described by Stellan Bergström, teacher at Visby Dioceses, the journey offers time for quiet reflection. Bergström points out that everyone is welcome to hike the trail, free of charge. Maps and information are available at the Office of the Diocese, in Visby Cathedral, in the St. Olofsholm chapel and in the churches the trail leads through. You can also download maps and brochures from Visby Diocese’s website. “There is also a pilgrims passport in which you mark off the churches the trail traverses. You can hike the trail year round, but naturally, spring, summer and autumn are best,” Stellan explains.

Along the entire stretch, there are signs bearing the pilgrim symbol and signs denoting places of interest. The trail name, St. Olavsleden, comes from the Norwegian sainted king Olav Haraldsson who, according to medieval sources, visited Gotland on a number of occasions. He is reputed to have gone ashore in St. Olofsholm on his journey back to Norway. There are no particular pilgrim packages, so you decide where you wish to stay for the night. Stellan therefore recommends planning your route in advance. Check accommodations and how you will get from your starting point to your destination. You could also contact Gotland's tourist agency. You will need to carry your own food and beverages, much like hiking in the mountains. Pack a map, warm clothes and good shoes. If you prefer not to take a long hike, you can choose parts of St. Olavsleden for day tours. Visby Diocese organises themed hikes and then makes information available on their website for later reference. “We also have other trails you can hike. One example is the ‘From church to church’ trail that takes you past various churches on the island. These trails don’t have the same official status that the St. Olavsleden trail has, but they make for nice hikes. At this point, I know that the trails between Klinte and Fröjel church and between Roma cloister ruins and Dalhem are in good shape and regularly frequented,” Stellan concludes.

What is a pilgrimage?

To be a pilgrim means to be a wayfarer. Those who take pilgrimages have both an inward-looking goal and a physical destination. It is a spiritual journey through the individual's inner being, but also a purely physical trek between two places. Jerusalem, Rome and the grave sites of saints all over the globe have all been important pilgrimage destinations.

Art & Culture WITH STRONG VOICES AND SWEET NOTES

Swedish celebrities such as Astrid Lindgren's beloved character Pippi Longstocking and director Ingmar Bergman have contributed to the culture that reflects Gotland's multifaceted environments. Beaches, limestone quarries and Visby's charming, cobbled alleys have been the backdrop of many films and TV shows. At times, it feels as if the whole island is a scene for different kinds of cultural expressions. Many esteemed Swedish crime writers use Gotland as the stage for their murders and eerie happenings. Thankfully, real life on the island is safe but don't be surprised if you happen to end up in the middle of a film shoot during your visit. If you hear sweet notes emanating from a ruin, it could be a concert. Many stages are outdoors or located in barns with ambience, such as Stelor or Gåsemora. If you are longing to spend time with Othello, King Lear or Macbeth, they and many other Shakespeare characters can usually be found at Roma Kungsgård in the summer. There are cultural expressions worth discovering around the island – small galleries, studios and art workshops. Keep an eye out for signs that say “Öppet” (open), stop by and allow yourself to explore. Who knows what treasures you will find in the cultural community of Gotland?

Five outdoor venues for music and shows: Romateatern/Roma Kungsgård Amphitheatre at Närsakar Kultudralen Hide Limestone Quarry Kallis, after beach deluxe

Don't miss the island's cultural oases: Körsbärsgården – A meeting place for art, architecture and lit-

erature at Storsudret. Sculpture park, art gallery, various installations and exhibitions.

Länsteatern – The island's only permanent professional theatre and dance venue that puts on its own productions and has guest appearances around the island, all year round.

Medieval Week – Theatre, music, shows, markets, tournaments – all in historical packaging. A week in August that attracts visitors from around the globe. More information about cultural events on Gotland: Kulturens ö – kulturenso.se Tickets from destinationgotland.se

Tasteful impressions All year round you can find exciting flavours amongst the island's many restaurants and farm shops. As autumn nears, discover everything from Gotland truffles and whisky to a harvest festival.

Gotland is a culinary center all year round. And there are many who claim that it is particularly in the autumn and spring that you can experience the best flavours on the island. After the heat of August starts to fade and the stillness that follows the hectic summer months begins to approach, the season of colourful taste sensations begins. Not only does Gotland have a high-quality selection of off-season restaurants, but it is also during the autumn that the colourful harvest festival takes place and the truffles begin to ripen for harvesting. There is something special about sitting down in the warmth of one of the is-

land’s many inviting restaurants while the autumn winds howl outside the door, don’t you think? When the spring sun and heat slowly begin to return, restaurants and farm shops once again begin to feature early produce, the flavours of which are influenced by “Terroir” – the interplay of climate and soil conditions, which are so special on the island. Perhaps it will inspire you too cook something new, or perhaps you will let chefs do the honour of displaying their craft in the shifting environment that defines the limestone paradise in the middle of the Baltic.

Photo: Thomas Gedminas

Annual truffle festival

For those interested in learning more about Gotland’s black gold and tasting truffle combinations, there is a reason to travel that you should book into your calendar. Yearly in November, the annual truffle festival will take place. Here, the Gotland truffle will take centre stage. In addition to seminars, markets and ceremonies dedicated to the theme of truffles, many of the island’s chefs will find inspiration during this weekend in November. They will offer their interpretations of truffle-themed after work events and truffle menus at their restaurants. Read more and make your reservations at gotlandstryffelfestival.se

Gotland whisky

It was 2016 when the first batch of whisky was finally ready in Roma Sockerbruk. The old industry buildings now house a modern distillery where about 24,000 litres of organic malt whisky are produced annually. The first of their whiskies was a single malt named Isle of Lime. Since then, a number of varieties have been released, all of which are made from organic barley that grows near the distillery. The water is fetched directly from the limestone bedrock, while drying, malting and smoking take place in Ronehamn in southern Gotland. It is simply a craftfully made whisky with the genuine flavour of Gotland. If you are interested in this amber spirit, you can visit the sugar mill for a guided tour. In the same building you will find the Gotlandssnus snuff factory, yet another company that is local to the island.

Photo: Suderbyns ekoby

Colourful harvest festival

In September, it is once again time for the annual folk festival applauding the fragrances, flavours and traditions of Gotland. During the first weekend in September every year, the island’s harvest period will be celebrated. This is the perfect time to get familiar with the entire chain of earth to table and to get to know those behind food production and the island’s culinary offerings. As the festival is particularly keen on welcoming children and youths, it offers many opportunities to meet live animals and learn more through activities and exhibitions. Read more about the event at gotlandsskordefestival.se and book your trip at destinationsgotland.se today.

To learn more about whisky and getting a guided tour, see gotlandwhisky.se

An island of flavours FROM CRISP EARLY VEGETABLES AND REFRESHING BEVERAGES TO THOUGHTS ON SUSTAINABILITY

Gotland delivers delicious produce, from the first vegetables of spring and the juicy berries of summer to colourful vegetables and tasty truffles. Meet Frida Domnauer who runs the Lindgården restaurant in Visby to learn more about Gotland's flavourful palette. Frida Domnauer runs Lindgården and is a member of the Kulinariska Gotland association, currently represented by seven Gotland restaurants: Gamla Masters, Smakrike, Bakfickan, Surfers, Broman & Son, Fårögården and Lindgården. Members rally their forces to support each other and to create good conditions for their staff while also assisting in bringing new people into the industry. They have an overall sustainability mindset and are champions of local produce and products. Frida believes that the expectations on Gotland as being an island of flavours are high, not only domestically, but also to some degree on the international stage. The relatively small island of Gotland sticks out of the crowd by delivering out-of-the-ordinary food and drink experiences. At Frida Domnaeur’s own restaurant, Lindgården, they work hard to ensure that they use local produce and that their menus are seasonal and follow the Farmer's Almanac. “We have a responsibility to teach our guests how important it is, from so many perspectives, to consume local food, not least from the perspective of sustainability.” With all the lovely produce in the area, restaurants and cafés are naturally inspired to create wonderful culinary experiences. Many allow single

products to speak for themselves, creating seasonal dishes, while others create new concepts in which the flavours of Gotland are subtly maintained. Frida tells us of how grateful she is that Gotland has so many hard-working producers who live for what they do. “Living on an island means having to pave your own way to survive. It's in this creativity that a special drive is born,” Frida continues. And maybe that is what makes Gotland so special. Everything is close at hand on the island, and Frida highlights the variety of year round restaurants found here. Sure, summertime is lovely, but from a gastronomic point of view, the spring and autumn are the best times for enjoying Gotland's produce. If left to Frida, she would choose the period between September and May when nature is in all its glory. So, what should you not miss? Many vegetables take on their flavours from the soil they are grown in, such as asparagus in the spring, dainty beetroot in the early summer and carrots in the autumn. And maybe even fresh berries such as strawberries and raspberries taste extra good on the island. This is thanks to “Terrior”, described by Frida as being the interplay between the climate and soil quality. Generally, Gotland's meat is also superior, whether it be beef, pork or lamb, the last of which is renowned. Lovers of what the sea has to offer should experience freshly smoked flounder from one of the fishing huts along the coast. When asked for tips on where you should go for culinary experiences, Frida gives us a list that she claims could be miles longer: Restaurang Rot, Coq & Vin, Lilla Bjers, Krakas Krog, Bolaget, Toftagården, Salthamn, Vår Fru, Bageriet, Grå Gåsen, Stelor, Rökeriet i Katthammarsvik, Warfsholm and Gåsemora (not to mention the restaurants that are members of Kulinariska Gotland).

“Sure, summertime is lovely, but from a gastronomic point of view, the spring and autumn are the best times for enjoying Gotland's produce.”

Photo: Magdalena Björnsdotter

Gotland also offers a wealth of beverages. In the world of beer, Gotlands Bryggeri and its many high-quality beers are well-known. But if you really want to delve into what the island has to offer, explore the abundance of microbreweries – Barlingbo Bryggeri, Hop Shed and Burgsviks Bryggeri to name a few. Up-and-coming is the Långmyre Vineri vineyard on Sudret who anticipate their first harvest in 2021. Speaking of putting Gotland on the map, Hellström Gin, has produced amazing products, or as Frida puts it: You would go out of your way to own a bottle of it. If you prefer non-alcoholic beverages to wet your whistle, give Halfvede Musteri’s delicious apple juice a go. Stafva Gårdsmejeri also produces quality products, and before re-embarking the ferry home, you should pay a visit to Kränku in Visby for their assortment of teas.

A traditional taste

The local food culture on the island is very much about taking advantage of the ingredients that are around us. Gotland's mild, sunny climate is also well suited for growing things that are otherwise associated with southern latitudes such as grapes, mulberries and figs.

Cultural crops enjoying something of a renaissance

There is a long history of growing on the island. Initially, the people on Gotland were mainly fishermen and seal hunters, but eventually cultivation began to take centre stage. Some crops were forgotten when modern agriculture conquered the land. But in recent times, interest in old, classic ingredients has taken off, such as the rediscovery of lentils or ancient cereals. Until the end of the 19th century, lentils were a staple on Gotland's farms. They were eaten in soups, stews, pancakes and much more. As with other old cultural crops, the reintroduction of Gotland lentils comes at an exciting time. Climate awareness and curiosity about new, healthy foods means that many today want to eat less meat and get more protein from lentils and beans. Lentils are clever foods that absorb nitrogen directly from the air. There is less need for fertilisation and lentils are relatively resistant to drought and weather changes. The protein-rich Gotland lentil with its pastel pink hue and green elements has a slightly nutty taste and a texture that is much firmer than many other lentils. The Gotland lentil is grown at the Mickelgård farm in När where they also package other growers' lentils. This little treat is popping up in more and more restaurants and shops – even outside Gotland.

Ancient and healthy wheat varieties

In the Nordic region, the single grain, emmer and spelt wheat varieties have been grown since the Stone Age. During the Bronze and Iron Ages, barley, "common" wheat and rye were also added. It seemed as if cultivation of the old grain varieties ceased during the Viking Age. But in the late 1960s it was discovered that they were still grown in Ardre on Gotland. The old grain varieties were harnessed and now they are grown in more and more Gotland fields. The old grain varieties are well adapted to the cultivation climate of Gotland and are loaded with vitamins and minerals. In addition, they have a rich grain flavour and satiate better than modern cereals. Gotland cultural grain can be enjoyed in the form of locally produced pasta at Lindgården restaurant, Gåsemora Gårdskrog, Hotel Stelor and Lilla Bjers. At Three Pheasants Boutique Bed & Breakfast you can learn how to make an authentic Neapolitan pizza, but with ingredients from Gotland and dough made from local cultural grains.

Gotland eggs can be found all over Sweden

Humans are said to have kept chickens as pets and companions for the past 5,000 years. Eggs are conveniently packaged foods and one of the most important ingredients in our baking, cooking and in its own right. Swedish legislation is the toughest in Europe when it comes to chicken feed so that those of us who eat eggs do not consume antibiotics, carrion flour, synthetic dyes and hormones from our food. Gotland is no exception when it comes to egg production and local operator Gotlandsägg cooperates with local farms on the island that supply free-range eggs. Sometimes there are fully approved eggs that may have a minor crack. These, Gotlandsägg sends to a food factory in Tingstäde where they are used in making pancakes and potato pancakes. Broken eggs are used to produce biogas. By the way, did you know that white hens lay white eggs and brown hens lay brown eggs? The colour of the shell does not affect the taste or composition of the egg in the least.

Bakeries with a history

The small family business Espegards in Ljugarn bakes and delivers bread every day of the week. In the idyllic town of Ljugarn, you can find a pastry shop boasting delicious sandwiches, Danishes, buns and other yummy morsels. Here, tourists and residents line up from morning to evening for these treats and to support their favourite café. Here, they bake with natural ingredients and focus on taste.

Award-winning buffet cucumbers

Amongst vegetables and herbs in the Växthuset greenhouse in Slite fresh green cucumbers grow. Many of these cucumbers end up at Gutö Delikatesser, who pickle them and make them into delicacies that are an extraordinary complement to classic Swedish meatballs. The buffet cucumber, which has been awarded both gold and silver in the "Swedish culinary art championship", is a thinly sliced cucumber, with chopped onions and peppers in a sweet-sour pickle juice, free from preservatives and additives. It is believed that cucumbers originate from India, where they have been grown for at least 3,000-4,000 years. In Sweden, cucumber has been eaten at least since the 17th century. So this green beauty is a faithful companion to Swedish cuisine. Pickling cucumbers according to old housewives’ recipes with vinegar, sugar and water, became common after the First World War. They keep very well. And the taste is amazing.

Potatoes for the Nobel Dinner

Gotland's climate and soil with a high lime content are ideally suited for growing potatoes. Stora Tollby farm in Fole specialises in different kinds of potatoes and other tasty crops, such as asparagus, corn, root vegetables, onions, beans and much more. And, potatoes that are served at the Nobel Dinner come from here. The farm grows 23 different types of potatoes, which have different characteristics and are harvested during different parts of summer and autumn. About 5,0006,000 tonnes of potatoes are harvested each year at Stora Tollby. All potatoes are stored, washed and packaged in the farm's own packing facility. All year round, they sell potatoes to commercial kitchens, wholesalers, restaurants, and consumers around Sweden. To secure the water supply, Stora Tollby has dug huge irrigation ponds, where rain and melting snow turn into hefty reservoirs. The ponds also collect water and nutrients, which would otherwise be channelled right into the Baltic Sea. In the wetland areas resulting from making the ponds, birds have their breeding and stopover grounds and insects thrive.

Eat locally – part of Destination Gotland's philosophy

Local companies that keep the town and the community alive are an important link in Gotland's business chain. They are also an important part of Destination Gotland's food philosophy – to serve first-class, delicious food on board that is also locally produced. Which is why you can enjoy hamburger buns from Espegard's bakery, eggs from Gotlandsägg, lentils from Mickelgårds, cucumber from Gutö Delikatesser and potatoes from Stora Tollby when you dine in the ship's restaurants.

SOME CLASSIC GOTLAND DISHES

Kajp soup – Kajp is a Gotland onion reminiscent of leeks. It grows wild in many of Gotland's meadows. The soup is preferably served with bread for dipping. Smoked flounder – European flounder, often just called flounder, is smoked and served with potato salad and other condiments. A delectable treat for any excursion. Glödhoppa – lamb brisket that is lightly salted and boiled. The bones are removed, the meat is coated in breadcrumbs and mustard and is sautéed. Often served with mashed root vegetables. Saffron pancake – An oven-baked dessert reminiscent of cheesecake. Made from rice, cream, almonds and saffron. Served cold or slightly warmed with whipped cream and dewberry jam. Dewberry jam – Dewberries grow in the wild. This berry is a relative of the blackberry, but requires lime-rich soil, which makes it thrive excellently on our island. An obvious accompaniment to saffron pancake.

GOTLAND DRINKS

Gotland has a long tradition of producing beverages of all kinds. Discover your own favourites. Here are a few examples. Beer – Gotland has a lot of local drinks to wet the whistle. Beer is made by Gotlands Bryggeri, Alskute Farm & Brewery, Jodu Beer, Snausarve Gårdsbryggeri, Hop Shed Brewery, Burgsviks Bryggeri and Barlingbo Bryggeri. Whisky – Distilling, tours and whisky tasting are on offer at Gotland Whisky in Roma's old sugar mill. Gutevin also makes Whisky. Spirits and recycling – Hellströms Gin is an award-winning gin originating at Furillen. Boge Bränneri distils and flavours their spirits from fruit, berries and grains. Gotlands Spirits makes spirits from 100 percent recycled food through their collaboration with Stora Coop in Visby. Wine – Långmyre Vineri in Burgsvik is a KRAV-certified vineyard that started in 2018. When at full capacity, 26,000 bottles of wine are produced. At Näsudden there are vines that are transformed into wine at Gutevin. When northern Gotland's pastorate produces its own Communion wine from Gotland grapes, they also produce an alcohol-free version. Must and other delicious drinks – Halfvede Musteri in Dalhem makes delicious must from their customers’ own garden fruits. They also have their own products such as must, mulled wine and vinegar in the farm shop. Gotland’s “drikke” is a home-brewed local malt beverage akin to ale. Its ingredients are malt, juniper, hops, water, some type of sugar and yeast. Often served in a plastic bottle.

As Gotland wakes At the Raufi family horse farm in Lau, southern Gotland, visitors gather in the middle of the night to greet the dawn on horseback. During the dawn ride, an adventure culminating in sunrise on a desolate beach, riders experience how nature and the island awake. By: Henrik Berglöf

Though it’s barely two in the morning, Lisa Raufi’s home in Lau has already been bustling with activity for hours. The horses have been brought in from the pastures. Breakfasts have been packed. And the first visitors are beginning to show up on the still dark farm. People greet each other quietly, still sleepy, and some long to creep back into their beds. It is still silent outside. Lisa comes along to introduce the riders to their horses. And then they ride off into the meadows and fields. Lisa has kindly asked the riders to only talk when necessary and the ride starts off with only the sound of the horses’ hooves on the ground. After riding for about 20 minutes, nature begins to awaken. The first sound comes from a corncrake in a field. A fox stops in its tracks to take in the sight of the riders. Then the conifer forests begin to give way to deciduous trees. Here, you can hear various species of birds. Part way into June, you can hear male nightingales in their competitive songs. As they approach the coast, it is the sound of sea birds that take over. The colour of the sky shifts several times during the ride. It goes from blue, to pink, to orange. Everything still remains quiet. Flies, which can be irritating during day rides, are not even noticeable. Finally at the beach, the riders are greeted by the long, shallow bay of Lau. The sun hangs suspended like an orange on the horizon, and when the wind is still,

Photo: Lisa Raufi

the water and light make a mirror that blurs our sense of up and down. It is time to take a gallop through the water for those who feel the urge. Occasionally, a golden eagle will decide to join in, perching on a sand dune just a hundred metres from the riders. Then it's time for breakfast on the beach. The scenery only enhances the flavours of coffee and sandwiches. The horses munch on reeds in the meantime. Then it's time to return to the farm. It is now 7 a.m. and the day has only just begun on Gotland. “We get a lot of return visitors each year, Lisa Raufi tells. Last year, one of our riders was able to squeeze in three dawn rides during her week on the island. “I understand why, this is an activity that need not compete with any other. When she got home, her family was still snoozing. They had the entire day left to spend together,” Lisa continues. Their entire organisation has an organic mindset. For example, the farm has toilets that separate urine from faeces to conserve water, and all waste is separated at the source. The food served to guests is locally grown. Any leftovers go to the chickens who reciprocate by providing eggs for breakfast on the beach. There is even an environmental mindset in the ride itself:

“It's about being considerate. If you ride with care, you have a minimal impact on nature. We pick up any horse manure left on the beach. We also pick up other people's rubbish. I've been known to ride home with soiled nappies in my saddle bags,” Lisa says. Most visitors still come in the summer, but more and more are coming for rides at other times of the year. Around school holidays and other major holidays we often get guests. In the autumn, bookings for three-day weekends increase. Gotland's nature is generous in offering experiences throughout the seasons. Regardless of when you ride, Lisa promises it will be a special experience. “On horseback, you can travel for miles without effort and get something entirely different out of nature,” Lisa says. “Animals in the forest are less shy than when you

come on foot so you can have closer encounters with foxes, eagles and deer. During a longer ride, you get to know your horse and start to feel like a team, experiencing the journey together. It's very common that riders break into tears of joy,” Lisa continues. Lisa believes that increased interest in back-to-basic experiences is the effect of an overwhelming flow of information and more time in front of screens. There are a lot of people who find peace in letting go of the news and social media for a few hours. “We don’t ban phones, but we do encourage our participants to make actual memories rather than storing them in their phone. During their holidays, a lot of people keep up a fast pace. This is a way to disconnect and just take it all in,” Lisa concludes.

Book your dawn ride with Lisa at destinationgotland.se/en-dos-gotland

Raufis’ Icelandic Horses in Lau

Lisa and her husband Kave have been organising dawn rides for ten years. Their daughter Alva also generally helps out. The groups for these rides are small, with no more than five people. The ride takes between three and four hours and is for experienced horseback riders. They can also arrange other tours for people with less riding experience. Also available is a weekend package with accommodations and rides that are customised to the participants. There are two flats on the farm for hire. Most of the farm's horses are Icelandic horses, but they also have ponies. If the weather is expected to be unsuitable for a dawn ride, Lisa gets in touch the evening before and offers riders a new time.

Find your oasis – VISIT A NATURAL RESERVE ON GOTLAND Welcome to Sweden’s limestone “Hawaii”. There are around 140 natural reserves around the island. Each has its own particular characteristics and environment. You can find rare orchids, ancient fortresses and hike along cliff-lined coasts. There are lakes full of birds, barren beaches and limestone conifer forests. But most of all, there are ample opportunities to take a deep breath of fresh air. Some reserves have toilets, parking close by and a high degree of accessibility. Others are more difficult to reach and require planning before your visit. Still others may contain bird protection areas and may thus be closed during parts of the year. Please see the following website (under Besöksmål – in Swedish): lansstyrelsen.se/gotland In Sweden we enjoy the right of public access which welcomes everyone to nature. But this freedom also carries with it the responsibility to leave things undisturbed. For more information on the right of public access (in Swedish), see: visitsweden.com Please keep in mind that other rules may apply in the nature reserves in addition to the right of public access.

5 TIPS FOR FINDING YOUR OASIS: • The power of knowledge. The more you read up on how things work in the nature reserves, the more time and energy you can spend enjoying the visit itself.

• Dress for weather and wind. Proper, comfortable shoes will make your visit more enjoyable, as will clothing that is suited to outdoor climates – remember that the weather can change rapidly. • Food and snacks. Bring some sustenance with you. For some reason, nothing tastes quite as good as a picnic outdoors. Because there may be a lack of shops and restaurants, it may be a necessity for longer excursions. • Toilet paper and bags. Nature inevitably calls, so it is good to have toilet paper on hand and bags to put it in, so nothing gets left behind in nature. • Get out and enjoy. Naturally, it's nice to have your phone with you to find your way or to call for help. However, we recommend that you allow yourself to disconnect.

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Hällholmen Jungfrun Gamla hamn Lergravsviken Digerhuvud Langhammars Husken S:t Olofsholm Malms-Kyllaj Lörgeudd Hideviken Stora Karlsö Husrygg Västra märgelgraven Snåltorp Lilla Karlsö Danbo Kallgatburg Skalahauar Ullahau Hall-Hangvar Ekstakusten Sandviken Högklint Brucebo Vaktbackar Grötlingboholme Storsund Folhammar Rone ytterholme Mulde Grausne källmyr Allkvie änge Alvena lindaräng Bosarve naturskog Träskmyr och Vasteån Grodde Laus holmar Sandarve kulle Mallgård källmyr Klosteränge Muskmyr Hörsne prästänge Närsholmen Salvorev-Kopparstenarna Lummelundagrottan Västergarns utholme Klinteklinten Kronholmen Hajdes storhage Torsburgen

52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102

Paviken Bergbetningen Björkume Uppstaig Vitärtskällan Käldänge Millumträsk Hoburgsmyr Filehajdar Tiselhagen Krakvät Sävvät Galgberget Verkegards Hägsarve kärräng Mojner Ålarve Storholmen Västlands Bästeträsk Bräntings haid Russvätar Hässle backe Ollajvs Haugajnar Salmbärshagen Jusarve skog Pankar Smågårde naturskog Lindhammarsmyr Mallgårds haid Bluttmo-Gildarshagen Grodvät Botes källmyr Kvie källmyr Forsviden Ölbäck Östergarnsberget Källinghagen Marpes Gräne Blautmörskogen Bungenäs Lilla Mörby tidigare Lauks Stenstugu skog Grogarnsberget Gothem Suderbys Hajdkvie skog Horsan Alstäde Skog Holmhällar

103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152

Själsöån Rongärde Bosarve lövskog Törrvesklint Langmyrskog Dagghagen Sajgs Guffride Sigdes Ryssnäs Herrgårdsklint Furilden Sigfride Ireån Lundar Bruten Bäcks Södra hällarna Mölnermyr Bräntings Mullvalds strandskog Hambrar Bojsvätar Helges hage Fide lövskog Storhagen Vivesholm Nors Slite Skärgård Fjälängar Burggathagen Maldes Bälsalvret Kistänge Siglajvs Träskvidar Snögrinde Lindeberget Hinser Västerhuse Sojdmyr Smaulmyrar Gerum prästänge Hajdhagen Bojsvätar södra Hajdhagskogen Hejnum Hällar Hejnum Kallgate Fonnsänget Västers myr

45 6

5 3

FÅ R Ö

91 65

71 21

106

116

2 32

146

77 92

103 25 53 64

VISBY

120

128

112 94

137 69

138

10 11

133

141 78 28 143 98

18 149 150

KLINTEHAMN

151

126

105

131 82 110

104

139 99 50 85 86 101 40 145

124

129 31

119

144

140

134

68 62 63 66

136 79

27 30

127 BURGSVIK

13 26

117 102

123

29 75

51 113

111 HEMSE

107

13 109

48 125 147 152

83 115 122 130

114

ROMA

4 7

SLITE

135 132

121

148 118 108

84 60 61

FÅRÖSUND

LÄRBRO

TINGSTÄDE

37 100 56

142

LJUGARN

97 89 23

Resemagasinet 2022 EN

Articles inside

As Gotland wakes

A traditional taste

An island of flavours

Find your oasis

Tasteful impressions

Art and culture

Coastal hikes

Bunker love and a thrilling history

Gotland's dramatic past

From tropical sea to ice age

Gotland from the 18th century to today

From the Stone Ages to late Middle Ages

Time travel in the present

Accommodations with an edge

Young explorers

Happenings on the island

Enjoy nature

Food on board

Sustainable journey

Travel to Sweden and Gotland

The shifts of nature

Welcome to Gotland

The darkness of Gotland

Live life outdoors