Advent l Fragrance l Street Photography l Music l Travel l Leica l
fresh eye
Magazine
Festive edition
Issue 12. December 2016 Photography Lifestyle Culture
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Contents
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l Bill Cunningham
Fashion and street.
fresh eye
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l Hair tech
Dyson innovation.
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4 6 8 38 42 44
l Leica TL
Smart mirrorless.
l Advent’s meaning
Beauty talk and Cara. l Magnum diaries
Ice cream indulgence. l Picture the fragrance
Festive aroumas.
l The Cohiba story
Smoking a brand.
l Sounds of Iceland
The musical art of Bjork. l Lapland and lustre
Escape to festive fantasy.
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l Reggae legend
Bob Marley log.
Cover: Tom Ford’s Black Orchid fragrance.
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Pear tree & Partridge
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oday, it seems that the run up to the Festive season starts as soon as the last firework has lit up the sky on bonfire night! Almost overnight the twinkling Christmas lights begin to flood towns and cities, shops frantically begin adding festive charm to their window displays. Obligatory Christmas carols are played everywhere you go and of course the Christmas adverts we all love are a welcomed addition to our cosy evening down time. The 12-day Festive Season begins on Christmas Day itself. This joyous time is the period in Christian theology which marks the time between the birth of Jesus Christ and the coming of Magi - where the 3 wise men brought gifts and worshiped him. This period continues until the 6th January and is known as the Epiphany or Three Kings Day. The four weeks preceding Christmas are known as advent. Chocolate for breakfast is officially acceptable for the following 24 days! Today Christmas is a time to celebrate the birth of Jesus Christ and to spend this special time with friends and family appreciating all the blessings we enjoy by the giving and receiving of gifts. Throughout the year many people are too
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Sophie says.....
The advent of advent. Sophie Fitzjohn busy with their daily lives and commitments to spend time with their friends and loved ones. This time presents the perfect opportunity for travelling, as the Magi did centuries before to be with loved ones. Christmas is about celebrations and joy and is a time to show family and friends appreciation and love. The 12 days of Christmas is also an iconic carol which dates back centuries and is the theme tune of the festive season for many. The carol the 12 days of Christmas is about someone receiving 12 gifts from their “true love� during this period, however the carol also features rich symbolism relating to the true meaning of the festivities. The song is referred to as a code reference to Christianity and was written to help Christians learn and pass on the tenets of their faith. The catchy verses breakdown to represents different stages of events and how the Christmas story unfolded. It continues to be a constant and gives a sense of happiness and wellbeing to many whatever their religion.
Three French hens, two turtle doves and a partridge in a pear tree.
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Experience Lindsay Lohan loves Magnum London.
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Magnum Pop Up Forward plan summer with an indulging ice-cream experience from Magnum.
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ndulge next summer with a personalised, design your own freshly-dipped ice-cream from the Magnum Pleasure Store. Choose your own selection of tempting toppings from thousands of flavour combinations from rose petals to black lava sea salt. Magnum’s specially trained Pleasure Makers will then sprinkle your toppings over deliciously luxurious chocolate as it sets. Each ice-cream creation will be perfected with a drizzle of chocolate and the finishing touch – a classic M coin decoration – all for only £4.50. The Magnum Pleasure Store has been designed with the Magnum Dipping Bar at its heart surrounded by a mix of seating and standing areas. It’ll prove the perfect pit stop
for shoppers to enjoy Magnum chocolate and ice cream. End of summer this year Magnum invited us all to visit the pop-up store on South Molton St W1 and create a personalised version of your favourite Magnum flavour – Mint, Death By Chocolate, Almond, or White Almond – with a new limited-edition range of toppings! Made by well-known pastry chef, Danielle Postma of Moemas Patisserie, the toppings include ingredients like crumbed chocolate cupcake, mint shortcake, chocolate brownie and frosted rose petals, crushed almond praline and ginger biscotti, just to name a few! This has become a rather wonderful London summer tradition. Look out for Magnum’s Pop Up experience in London next year.
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Act Scent Fragrances account for the bulk of big fashion brand revenue. Small wonder then why so much is spent on advertising. Attention to packaging and bottle details using clean, noir, macro photography and effects is the pursuit of visual seduction.
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Black Orchid Tom Ford Black Orchid blended with dark, tempting florals and rich fruit accords.
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YSL Caftan, Saharienne(provocative femininity), Tuxedo, CAban,Trench
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Black Opium YSL. Notes of coffee, present in large quantities, dominate the scent. Additional accords are pink pepper, orange blossom, jasmine, vanilla, patchouli and cedar.
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Famous Chanel N°5 A symbol of good taste and is currently one of the best selling perfumes in the world. Coco Chanel asked the perfume designer Ernest Beaux to create a perfume ‘ which smells like a woman’. Chanel N°5 is a very complex fragrance which does not allow any of the fragrant components to be isolated out of the composition, what was exactly a request of the great Chanel – the perfume should not smell like a rose, or a lily of the valley, but as a composition.
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Chanel No. 5 Top notes aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli and ylang-ylang, the heart of jasmine, rose, lily of the valley and iris, while the base is created of vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, amber and patchouli.
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Chanel Chance Pink pepper, jasmine, patchouli, vanilla and white musk.
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Chanel, Allure Homme Sport Allure Homme Sport by is a lighter, fresher version of this classic male fragrance
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Pierre Balmain, Extatic Fresh fruity accords of green mandarin, lychee and black currant. Includes Turkish rose essence, magnolia and airy jasmine, finishing with dry down of ambroxan, cedar and musk.
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Pierre Balmain, Balman Pour Homme Note of tonka bean, mirabelle plum liquorice, sandalwood, oakmoss, cardamom. .
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Aqva Pour Homme Marine Bvlgari for men Posidonia Oceanica seaweed, neroli, grapefruit, rosemary and white cedar.
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Bvlgari Omnia Indian Garnet Floral, Oriental. Top notes Mandarin, Saffron. Heart notes Indian tuberose, Osmanthus. Base notes Amber, Indian woods.
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Omnia Amethyste Bvlgari for women Top note pink grapefruit. Middle notes are iris and Bulgarian rose. Base notes are heliotrope and woody notes.
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Bvlgari Man In Black Bvlgari for menAmber, leather, spices and woods. It opens with accords of natural rum and luminous spices. Tuberose, iris absolut and leather form the core of the perfume, placed on the base of benzoin, tonka bean and guaiac wood.
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Paco Rabanne, Lady Million fresh top notes of bitter orange, fleshy raspberry and neroli, followed by floral notes of orange blossom and Arabian jasmine and base notes of patchouli, honey and amber.
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Paco Rabanne, 1 Million Burst of freshness from grapefruit, blood mandarin and mint. The heart is composed of spicy notes, rose and cinnamon, with the base made up of patchouli, amber, woody notes and leather.
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Elixir Des Merveilles peru balsam, vanilla sugar, amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli, siam resin, caramel, oak, incense, orange peel and cedar.
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Hermes, Voyage D’Hermes woody fresh, musky scent with an amber signature making it radiant and soft. A fragrance to share for both men and women.
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Jean Paul Gaultier, Kokorico raw cocoa bean collides with the sprightly freshness of the fig leaf and livens up the timeless elegance of woods.
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Jean Paul Gaultier, Classique top notes of anise, orange blossom and tangerine, middle notes of ginger, orchid and ylang-ylang and base notes of vanilla, musk and amber.
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Christian Dior women’s collection From the left, Poison, Miss Dior Extrait de Parfum, J`Adore Extrait de Parfum, Dioressence, Miss Dior Extrait de Parfum Original.
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Dior, Miss Dior CherieSharp charm of a fresh, fruity, citrus prelude into blossoming floral notes, then on to the noble elegance of patchouli, before finally concluding with musk, the last trace of memory.
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Karl Lagerfeld for Men lavender and mandarin zest that is enhanced by crispy apple and violet leaves. Cold, spicy notes contrast with an addictive sandalwood and amber blend for a woody dry down.
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Karl Lagerfeld for Women Opens with accords of lemon and peach, with a floral heart of magnolia, rose and frangipani. All on a base of amber wood and musk.
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www.buckitt.co.uk
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Cunning photos The late grandfather of street photography.
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ill Cunningham, who turned fashion photography into his own branch of cultural anthropology on the streets of New York, chronicling an era’s ever-changing social scene for The New York Times by training his busily observant lens on what people wore — stylishly, flamboyantly or just plain sensibly — died June this yar in Manhattan. He was 87. Nothing escaped his notice: not the fanny packs, not the Birkin bags, not the gingham shirts, not the fluorescent biker shorts. In his nearly 40 years working for The Times, Mr. Cunningham snapped away at changing dress habits to chart the broader shift away from formality and toward something more diffuse and individualistic. In the process, he turned into something of a celebrity himself. In 2008, Mr. Cunningham went to Paris, where the French government bestowed the Legion of Honor on him. In New York, he was celebrated at Bergdorf Goodman, where a life-size mannequin of him was installed in the window. In 2010, a documentary, “Bill Cunningham New York,” premiered at the Museum of Modern Art to glowing reviews. Yet Mr. Cunningham told nearly anyone
who asked about it that the attendant publicity was a total hassle, a reason for strangers to approach and bother him. He wanted to find subjects, not be the subject. He wanted to observe, rather than be observed. Asceticism was a hallmark of his brand. His words “I started photographing people on the street during World War II. I used a little box Brownie. Nothing too expensive. The problem is I’m not a good photographer. To be perfectly honest, I’m too shy. Not aggressive enough. Well, I’m not aggressive at all. I just loved to see wonderfully dressed women, and I still do. That’s all there is to it. I came to New York in 1948 at 19, after one term at Harvard. Well, Harvard wasn’t for me at all. I lived first with my aunt and uncle. I was working at Bonwit’s in the advertising department. Advertising was also my uncle’s profession. That’s why my family allowed me to come here and encouraged me to go into the business. I think they were worried I was becoming too interested in women’s dresses. But it’s been my hobby all my life. I could never concentrate on Sunday church services because I’d be concentrating on women’s hats.”
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“The best fashion show is definitely on the street. Always has been, and always will be.�
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Cunningham’s most notable columns in the Times, On the Street and Evening Hours ran in the paper from February 26, 1989 until shortly before his death in 2016. For On the Street, Cunningham photographed people and the passing scene in the streets of Manhattan, often at the corner Fifth Avenue and 57th Street, which the New York Times called Cunningham’s “main perch”. As he worked, his focus was on clothing as personal expression. He did not photograph people in the manner of paparazzi, preferring genuine personal style to celebrity.
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Cohiba tales The timeline of an iconic tobacco brand.
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n 1492, during Columbus’s first voyage to the “new world”, he visited the island of Cuba. His sailors were introduced to “Cohíba” by the island natives, a bunch of dried leaves that were smoked in a pipe called a “Tobacco”. The Cohiba brand of cigars, established in 1968, is regarded as one of the best cigar brands in the world producing some of the highest quality cigars from the highest quality tobacco. The name ‘Cohiba’ comes from the Taino (pre-Columbian inhabitants of the Bahamas) word meaning tobacco and true to the word the cigars are just tobacco. The Tobacco used in Cohiba cigars is from the Vuelta Abajo region of Cuba which has gone through an extra fermentation process unique to Cohiba which gives them that smooth and distinctive taste. The brand was started, so the story goes, when a body guard to Fidel Castro shared some of his private, un-banded cigars made by
Eduardo Ribera. Castro liked them so much that he found the man responsible for them, got a team of rollers and set up the El Laguito factory to create cigar spurred on by the assassination attempts, exclusively for Fidel Castro and other high-level officials. In 1982, 3 types of Cohíba Cuban cigars were introduced to non-diplomats: the Lanceros, the Coronas Especiales and the Panetelas. 3 more vitolas were added to the brand in 1989: the Espléndidos, the Robustos and the Exquisitos, completing what is known as “La Línea Clásica”. 5 more vitolas were added in 1992 creating the “Linea 1492”: the Siglo I, II, III, IV and V. Cohíba remains the “King of the Cubans”. Only the finest tobacco leaves are used to create the various types of Cohíba cigars. A distinct bean taste has been attributed to Cohíbas, however the common factor amongst the Cohíba family is the strong nature of all the cigars. This is not a beginners brand.
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lavender mandarin zest that is enhanced by spicy
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Hot hair The power of Dyson.
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H
ealthy hair is noted by a level of shine. Science reveals that over heated hair strands are damaged by heat over 150° C. Structural changes start to take place in the hair whereby holes can form in the strands. This causes light to scatter and the hair will look dull. Dyson have solved this problem by incorporating an intelligent heat control system. Details The hair dryer re-thought. Helps prevent extreme heat damage to protect natural shine. Air temperature is measured 20 times every second, keeping the temperature under control. Drying shouldn’t take forever. For fast drying you need controlled, high velocity airflow. Only the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer comes with magnetic attachments - so you can adjust quickly and easily. Dyson smoothing nozzle dries hair gently using smooth, wide air, allowing you to dry and style at the same time. Dyson styling concentrator high-velocity, focused air that lets you style
one section at a time - without worrying about disturbing the rest. Dyson diffuser is engineered to disperse air evenly around each of your ringlets. Simulates natural drying to help reduce frizz and improve definition. With heat shield technology, the surfaces of the attachments stay cool. Dyson has turned convention on its head and put the motor in the handle,completely rebalancing the dryer’s weight and shape. The powerful motor is tuned to produce one inaudible frequency, and it’s enveloped by a vibration reduction system. 3 precise speed settings: fast drying, regular drying, and styling. Key Features: l Prevents extreme heat damage l Ultra-fast drying l Magnetic attachments l Dyson smoothing nozzle l Dyson styling concentrator l Dyson diffuser l Cool to touch l Lightweight and balanced l Acoustically tuned l 3 precise speed settings
“As an engineer I’m constantly spotting problems and plotting how to solve them.” James Dyson.
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Beautiful enigma Björk the Icelandic treasure.
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jörk Guðmundsdóttir, is known mononymously as Björk. Over her four-decade career, she has developed an eclectic musical style that draws on a wide range of influences and genres spanning electronic, pop, experimental and trip hop. Forever depicted as an enigma perhaps the most laughable comic portrayal of the musical princess was the “Spitting Image” series presenting her puppet double having vocal communications with a then fax machine. Elton John remarked on her accomplished music making, shunning any claims of an artist who ‘makes noise’ and yes Björk in my estimation is indeed an artful force straight out of Reykjavik producing sublime sounds. Her creative control and self production so consicely illustrating a sound that is the mark of an artist who places art first. A mark that is built on rather than traded on. Early
punk influence and a group called The Sugar Cubes morphed into pop electronic creations and symphonic interludes that are uniquely brought to life by an artist who steps outside of a popular music formula - and even more notable of late. The music expresses an attachment to the avant garde and at a push, self endulgence some might say. The latest album is called ‘Vulnicura’. In a note on Facebook, she wrote six of the nine tracks herself, co-wrote two with Arca - a producer on Kanye West’s Yeezus and FKA Twigs’ LP1 - and penned one with Spaces (a full tracklist is below). Björk and Arca produced much of the album together, while British producer the Haxan Cloak also chipped in on one track, and handled most of the mixing, save for two he mixed with Chris Elms. Vulnicura marks Björk’s first album in four years, and follows 2011’s Biophilia, which arrived complete with its own interactive app.
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“Singing is like a celebration of oxygen.” - Bjork -
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A winter’s dream From Lapland to the North Pole.
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hristmas and Christmas Day, the annual festival commemorating the birth of Jesus Christ, observed most commonly on December 25 as a religious and cultural celebration among billions of people around the world. A feast central to the Christian liturgical year, it is prepared for by the season of Advent or the Nativity Fast and initiates the season of Christmastide, which historically in the West lasts twelve days and culminates on Twelfth Night.
that Santa Claus resides in Lapland, Finland. It appears he’s moved from the North Pole.
Tradition - But what is it to people today? Certainly the commercial drive lives on through retail therapy and cosumerism. An ever increasing forward advertising schedule that sees tv advertising as early as October. Is the heart and meaning of the birthday celebration for (let’s face it) Christ who is arguabley the most important and influencial God head of civilised times, becoming overlooked and somewhat dinimished?
Skiing - Lapland’s versatile ski resorts offer downhill enthusiasts everything from kids’ runs to black slopes, and snow parks to backcountry exploring. The season starts in late October, and high season spans from February until the snow melts in early May.
Dreamscape - Well, what can be noted is a common vision of a winter place or escape that summons the air of fantasy and mystisism that surrounds Christmas. That place, that escape being Northern Europe. More pointedly Finland. Modern day folklore has it
Escape - The snow season in northern Finland begins in November and lasts at least until May. In the inland regions of southern and central Finland, the first snow falls at the beginning of December and melts during late March and April. During January and February, there is almost always snow in northern and eastern Finland. Even if there’s little snow in Helsinki, there’s often up to a metre or more on the skiing slopes of Lapland.
Aurora Borealis - Seeing the Northern Lights requires sufficient darkness and clear skies, which makes late autumn, the winter and early spring (September to March) the most favourable times. The best time of day is an hour or two before and after midnight. The display might last 20 seconds or go on for hours. Finnish Lapland is as close as reality gets to those who dream of a winter wonderland at Christmas.
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The shimmering display of the aurora borealis, more commonly known as the northern lights. Where: Northern lights, Sweden
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Visitors to Igloo Village Kakslauttanen can choose between a glass or a snow igloo. For a truly Nordic experience, book your own reindeer-drawn sled ride. Where: Saariselka, Finland
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Ice Hotel - complete with rounded snow tunnels glowing with colorful lights and decorated with intricate ice carvings. Where: Kittilä, Finland
The floating Snowflake Hotel. 86-room hotel should be ready to open to visitors in 2017. Where: The fjords near Tromso, in Norway
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Everything in the Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel is made of snow and ice, even the glasses at the bar. Where: Alta, Norway
Hotel Kakslauttanen. Built from ice and snow. Also boasts the world’s largest snow restaurant. Where: Saariselkä, Finland
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Santa Claus Village - Lapland. A region in northern Fennoscandia, largely within the Arctic Circle. It stretches across Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. Where: Rovaniemi, Finland
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Mirrorless-Leica TL The Leica TL is a modest follow-up to the Leica T mirrorless camera
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T
The Leica TL App for iOS and Android. he integrated Wi-Fi module lets you transfer your pictures by wireless from your Leica TL to smartphones, tablet PCs or computers and share your view of the world. With the Leica TL app for iOS and Android, you can share your pictures quickly and easily on Facebook and other social media and transform your smartphone into an electronic viewfinder and remote control for shooting with your Leica TL.
own. Of course, the camera also features a slot for SD, SDHC and SDXC memory cards. So you’ll never miss a single shot. Another particularly practical feature: easy and convenient recharging by USB cable. Technical equipment for the Leica TL. From powerful flash units and the Visoflex high-resolution electronic accessory viewfinder to practical adapters for mounting the legendary Leica M and Leica R lenses – everything is perfectly matched to the Leica TL. Discover system-dedicated equipment – the technical accessories for your Leica TL.
The generously sized 3.7” LCD touchscreen. Discover how simple handling can be – touch the screen to focus on your subject, and check and review your pictures with a swipe. The menu of the Leica TL can be configured to meet your personal preferences. You have everything you need at a glance. Whenever you want. Wherever you want.project’s technical lead. “Then there are two buttons on the side to tighten and loosen. You can adjust it until it’s perfect.” The built-in 32 GB memory Your memory card is full? No problem. The Leica TL has a built-in 32 GB memory of its
Designed exclusively for the Leica TL Camera System, high-resolution Visoflex electronic accessory viewfinder.
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Iconic The late Bert Stern, described as ‘The Original Mad Man’. He said that he like to own things he was looking at. ‘I capture them in my camera and then they are mine.’ This goes toward an insight into just how intense the relationship between photographer and subject can be. Sixties model icon Twiggy looks like the essence of youth here in this stunning photograph. A frozen moment that screams new, fashion and trend. An early take on androdgony that ers on the feminine side.
- Bert Stern -
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Legend
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Reggae Reggae Legend, icon, one love, Bob Marley.
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inger, musician and songwriter Bob Marley served as a world ambassador for reggae music and sold more than 20 million records throughout his career—making him the first international superstar to emerge from the so-called Third World. Born on February 6, 1945, in St. Ann Parish, Jamaica, Bob Marley helped introduce reggae music to the world and remains one of the genre’s most beloved artists to this day. The son of a black teenage mother and much older, later absent white father, he spent his early years in St. Ann Parish, in the rural village known as Nine Miles. One of his childhood friends was Neville “Bunny” O’Riley Livingston. Attending the same school, the two shared a love of music. Bunny inspired Bob to learn to play the guitar. Later Livingston’s father and Marley’s mother became involved, and they all lived together for a time in Kingston, according to Christopher John Farley’s Before the Legend: The Rise of Bob Marley. Arriving in Kingston in the late 1950s, Marley lived in Trench Town, one of the city’s poorest neighborhoods. He found inspiration in the music around him. Trench Town had a number of successful local performers and was considered the Motown of Jamaica.
Sounds from the United States also drifted in over the radio and through jukeboxes. Marley liked such artists as Ray Charles, Elvis Presley, Fats Domino, and the Drifters. Marley and Livingston devoted much of their time to music. Under the guidance of Joe Higgs, Marley worked on improving his singing abilities. He met another student of Higgs, Peter McIntosh (later Peter Tosh) who would play an important role in Marley’s career. The Wailers A local record producer, Leslie Kong, liked Marley’s vocals and had him record a few singles, the first of which was “Judge Not,” released in 1962. While he did not fare well as a solo artist, Marley found some success joining forces with his friends. In 1963, Marley, Livingston, and McIntosh formed the Wailing Wailers. Their first single, “Simmer Down,” went to the top of the Jamaican charts in January 1964. By this time, the group also included Junior Braithwaite, Beverly Kelso and Cherry Smith. The Wailers got their big break in 1972 when they landed a contract with Island Records, founded by Chris Blackwell. Later Marley was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 1994,.
Born: 6th February 1945 in St. Ann Parish, Jamaica. Died: Miami, Florida, on May 11, 1981.
iPhone 6 Campaign. Subject: Wife. Bangkok, Thailand