Cosy weekend
out of the blue
WORDS BY DORIAN MODE PHOTOGRAPHY BY LYDIA THORPE
“Mountains are the beginning and the end of all natural scenery.” – John Ruskin I do like the cold. It’s a novelty for us living on the Coast, isn’t it? I don’t know about you but our go–to winter playground is the UNESCO World Heritage– listed Blue Mountains. Leaving the Coast and passing Glenbrook, we feel the temperature gradually ebb as we make our leafy ascent. We note the deciduous trees have already shed their veil of leaves for winter. And the grey eucalypts twitch in the lovely mountain breezes. I can almost smell that cosy log fire as I drive. (Mental note: Check the oil.) Our first destination is the Norman Lindsay House at Faulconbridge – confusingly called Springwood. This is an ideal pit stop as it’s at the foot of the mountains – just past Glenbrook. Now, whether you are moved by Lindsay’s work or not is a moot point. Lindsay was an utterly fascinating character and a leading figure in the bohemian Sydney of the 1920s. His output was prolific, including the Magic Pudding series of children’s books. We were fortunate enough to have a tour guide with us that day who discussed his work, including Norman’s etching process, which at the time, was cutting edge (pun intended). Psst! When you visit any gallery, always tag along with a tour
24
ON T H E C OA S T – OV ER 5 5
(included in admission) so you can attach a narrative to the works. Indeed, it was a thrill to stand in the artist’s studio – where they’ve cleverly left his paints and brushes as if the Norm just popped out to smoke his pipe. In the house we find the main gallery housing his renowned busty nudes. I was amused to see a painting of a well– dressed lady in jodhpurs on horseback amongst the orgy of oils. Had no one told her that ‘dress was optional’? His statuesque model for his work was his muse and later wife, Rose Soady. Working–class Rosie was from the wrong side of the pallet and her story is as fascinating as old Norm’s. And I do like his paintings of cats. He captures their personality so accurately. No wonder. The Lindsays had thirty cats! Post art, do enjoy some indoor rock climbing at Camp Street Climbing at Katoomba if you are so inclined (pun intended). Or if you have bad knees and hips like us, why not make a beeline for our favourite heritage garden in the Blue Mountains, Everglades at Leura. We adore this place. We especially love the historic house. This gorgeous Moderne–style 1930s Art Deco home was built by the textile king, Henri Van de Velde. The garden was built by Danish landscape designer, Paul Sorensen, who by that time, had established a prestigious clientele and was much in demand as a creator of boutique gardens. Set amongst 5.2 hectares of elegantly designed heritage gardens, the views over
the Jamison Valley to Mount Solitary are sublime. And psst! This ‘devotee’ of a ‘Devo Tea’ will argue it’s the best value place for your scone and cream in the Blue Mountains. Why? Because it’s run by National Trust volunteers and those ladies bake the scones themselves. However, if you’re looking for something more upmarket, enjoy a Silver Service version of the Devo (with champers) at our fabulous digs below. Keep reading! We’ve been writing travel for over twenty years. But we have a confession to make. We are not supposed to have favourites. But our favourite hotel in the Blue Mountains is the Hydro Majestic: a sublime amalgam of Deco and Nouveau. We first fell in love with the old gal when commissioned by Inside History Magazine to write a complete history of the place upon its grand reopening. And
Fact box #1: Yulefest Christmas In July 2nd to 30th July 2022 Get into the festive Yulefest spirit with a delectable dining experience indulging in a special 5 course Yulefest inspired degustation dinner menu at the Hatted Wintergarden Restaurant with a glass of sparkling on arrival. Cost $159.00 per Adult $139.00 per Teenager $ 55.00 per Child (2–course Children’s Menu / 4–12 years)
