William Barthman Jeweler Magazine by David Perry

WILLIAM BARTHMAN T H E M AG A Z I N E

A VOYAGE INTO THE WORLD OF ROLEX Rolex’s founding philosophy of innovation and excellence is more present than ever.

ROMA RENAISSANCE

We preview the newly redesigned Bvlgari Octo Roma.

THE MIDAS TOUCH

New Roberto Coin jewelry and the “City of Gold”.

THE MAGAZINE by WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER

CONTENTS

VOL. 8, NO. 1

FEATURES 16 A VOYAGE INTO THE WORLD OF ROLEX

WILLIAM BARTHMAN T H E M AG A Z I N E

From its creation by Hans Wilsdorf more that a century ago, the founder’s philosophy of innovation and excellence is more present than ever.

A VOYAGE INTO THE WORLD OF ROLEX Rolex’s founding philosophy of innovation and excellence is more present than ever

ROMA RENAISSANCE

We preview the newly redesigned Bvlgari Octo Roma

THE MIDAS TOUCH New Roberto Coin jewelry and the “City of Gold”

William Barthman is the exclusive Authorized Rolex Jeweler in Brooklyn.

THE COSMOPOLITAN WATCH

PRIME TIME

COLUMNS 14 OUR NEW JEWELRY LUXURY EXPERIENCE.

Robust and functional, the Rolex GMT-Master II is the ideal watch for criss-crossing the globe.

Our newly-renovated Brooklyn store offers more amenities for shoppers than ever before.

Tudor new ladies watches are designed to do the job of keeping time, and look beautiful while doing so. New Tudor Royal

ROMA RENAISSANCE First introduced in 2017, this new redesigned Bvlgari Octo Roma is a hands down winner.

30 40 46

THE PREMIER LEAGUE The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 delivers a timeless elegance that is steeped in history.

THE MIDAS TOUCH Roberto Coin is one of the world’s most popular jewelry designers. His new designs, inspired by Vicenza, Italy’s “City of Gold,” radiate luxury, style, and sophistication.

WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

TEN REASONS WHY BROOKLYN IS OUR HOME Why many people consider Brooklyn the best place to be in New York City.

50 56

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT Every hand-made Damiani creation reflects the family’s passion for fine jewelry design, handed down for three generations.

TIMELINE A concise history of ladies’ wristwatches.

s we welcome yet another generation to our

At William Barthman, where family and community is

venerable establishment, we would also like

our core, we are constantly striving to bring you the ut-

to extend to all of you a heartfelt wish for a

most luxurious shopping experience, and will continue to

happy and healthy year. We are grateful for the commu-

evolve into the ultimate jewelry and watch destination.

nity that has grown with us and to all of the new faces

We are always striving to do our best and make your ex-

we’ve gotten to know. There are so many things to be

perience with us a pleasurable one; in store, online, and on

proud of at William Barthman Jeweler as we wrap up 2023,

all of our social platforms. Our sales and service depart-

one of the greatest projects being the new renovation at

ment are consistently undergoing training to give you the

our Brooklyn location. Come in for an all new luxury

highest level of sales experience for all your past, present

experience.

and future purchases, as well as all your repair

In giving the store a sophisticated new look, we are

and maintenance needs. We look forward to the future,

also pleased to announce that our watch and jewelry re-

and the opportunity to serve you. Thank you for being

pair centers have undergone a modernization this year,

part of our family

including new state-of-the-art equipment.

Sincerely, The Natkins

WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

OUR NEW

LUXURY JEWELRY EXPERIENCE Our newly-renovated Brooklyn store offers more amenities for shoppers than ever before.

ince our founding in 1884, William Barthman Jeweler has put clients first, offering a wide selection of top jewelry and watch brands. The renovation of our Brooklyn store was conducted with the comfort and pleasure of our customers in mind. Across the country, luxury retail experience at the highest level is consistently evolving. Sophisticated shoppers are more and more seeking not only to make a purchase, but to enjoy the experience in new ways. Post-pandemic, top brands and high-level retailers have responded to this need and sought to enhance the in-store shopping experience. Discerning shoppers are seeking more, and retailers are investing to meet their needs and desires. At William Barthman, we anticipate our client’s wishes and are constantly striving to provide the ultimate level of shopping experience. Our newly-renovated Brooklyn store is an oasis from the hustle-and-bustle of everyday life. Rich wood paneling, stone flooring and custom crafted lighting add to the inviting atmosphere. We’ve added a bar area to our store, a fireplace, and comfortable seating areas throughout. These days, people coming to our store for fine jewelry and watches are being welcomed with far more than just gleaming showcases filled with glittering diamonds and top-tier timepieces. With these upgraded environs, our staff are able to provide a more personalized experience for our valued customers. Our watch brands, including Rolex, Tudor, Breitling, IWC, Bvlgari, and Hublot, each have a dedicated shop-in-shop area where customers can browse at their leisure. Our fine jewelry brands, including Damiani and Roberto Coin, have their own dedicated spaces as well. We invite you to visit for a coffee or a cocktail and relax in our new lush surroundings. Our doors are open for those simply looking to browse as well as actively purchase. Our clients are welcome to come in to discuss their passion for watches with our knowledgeable sales staff. Jewelry lovers will enjoy seeing the very latest from top brands. We also offer a custom-made jewelry service, allowing customers to create a unique piece for that special someone. Generations of families have trusted William Barthman with their most treasured purchases that can last a lifetime and beyond. Children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren of our clients come to us with confidence for all of their jewelry and watch needs. Customer service is our number one priority, and it shows.

WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

18 W I L L I A M B A R T H M A N J E W E L E R M A G A Z I N E

20 W I L L I A M B A R T H M A N J E W E L E R M A G A Z I N E

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PRIME TIME With the introduction of exciting new styles, Tudor’s ladies’ watches are designed to do the job of keeping time, and look beautiful while doing so. It’s part of the Tudor heritage.

nyone who thinks Tudor just makes rugged watches for sporty men like soccer legend David Beckham, one of the company’s biggest fans and a brand ambassador, think again. Tudor has quietly, and pretty much since its beginnings, produced watches for women. Not just today’s oh-so-popular unisex or genderless watches, which usually have a rather functional and classic air to them and are made to appeal to anyone’s taste. But watches that are decidedly feminine, with gold and diamonds and the glimmer of opaline, and sized as small as 26 mm to fit comfortably and attractively on a slender wrist. Tudor has several collections of watches that have been unapologetically designed for women, but with the same hi-tech promise of reliability combined with surprising affordability that have always been the hallmark of the brand’s production. Then and now, there are new designs in store in time for Mother’s Day, graduations, weddings, or any occasion that requires a very special, lasting, indeed timeless, gift to commemorate it. Hans Wilsdorf, a German businessman and some would say visionary, famously started Tudor watches in 1926 after establishing the Tudor Oyster Ref. 4463, circa 1940s iconic Rolex brand. "For some years now I have been considering the idea of making a watch that our agents could sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that could attain the standards of dependability for which Rolex is famous,” he said. “I decided to form a separate company, with the object of making and marketing this new watch. It is called the Tudor Watch Company." The singular timepiece that put Tudor on the horological map, introduced nearly 70 years ago, in 1954, was the Submariner, a rugged, hefty, hardworking timepiece so reliable that various navies throughout the world, including the United States, adopted it for their use. But Tudor also produced watches for women as far back as the 1930s. They were designed to do the job of keeping time but looking beautiful while doing 26

WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

New watches released this year include theTudor Black Bay 54 (top) and the Tudor Royal (above). WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

In 2017 the Clair de Rose was born, incorporating a mechanical movement with highly refined design. so. Collections such as Princess, Glamour, 1926 and Miss Tudor were released, in sizes as small as 26 mm.

Clair de Rose remains one of the most popular women’s lines. The watch comes with a date function and carries about 38 hours of power reserve. The watch offers a choice of three sizes, with corresponding calibres: calibre T601 in the 34mm models and T201 in the 26 and 30mm editions. In the years since its introduction, the Clair de Rose has been available in a variety of colors, sizes and materials. The latest iteration streamlines the choice of material to one modern, sleek option: stainless steel. Other characteristics of the Clair de Rose remain: the steel screw-down winding crown, set with a blue spinel cabochon and the smooth steel bezel with a polished finish. There are other choices as well that provide the possibility to personalize the Clair de Rose for each woman wearing it. The shimmering opaline dial, delicately decorated with designs in relief, can sport blue lacquered Roman numerals, or eight of the numbers can be replaced with diamonds. The Clair de Rose references 35800, 35500 and 35200 come in six different designs presented in a case with a polished finish that is available in three sizes: 26, 30 and 34mm in diameter. For women who want a watch that will stand up to year-round, 24/7 wearing, each watch is waterproof to a depth of 100 metres. Lastly, there is a choice of straps: steel with the small “rice grain” links that have traditionally graced the collection, classic black leather or a unique jacquard fabric made by a 150year-old family firm in the Saint-Étienne region of France using traditional weaving techniques. NEW WATCHES FOR 2023 Women who enjoy active sports can still turn to Tudor’s signature creations, like the Black Bay, Tudor’s first diver’s watch, introduced in 2012. The new Black Bay 54 pays homage to the original, but with new features. The 37mm steel case is sized for women or men, the calibre is produced in house, the depth rating is 200 meters, and there is a choice of bracelet, either steel link or black rubber. The slim Above, top and bottom: Tudor Clair de Rose 28

WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

New Tudor Black Bay 54

11.24mm-thick case profile makes it quite comfortable to wear with the T-Fit clasp, available on both the bracelet and rubber strap versions. And with an eye on the growing interest of women in fine watchmaking, Tudor released new versions of the Tudor Royal in sophisticated new color palettes. The dials now come in radial-brushed salmon or chocolate brown, with applied Roman numeral hour markers or with eight diamond hour markers combined with four Roman numerals. The new choices join the existing options of dial colors, bracelets, case sizes ranging from 28mm to 41mm, and bezels—including one set with 60 diamonds—and offer the possibility of creating your own customized watch, the epitome of luxury. The new Tudor Royals bring a mix of glamour and classic style to the sports watch design. They join Tudor’s full range of offerings designed to provide something atNew Tudor Black Bay 54 tractive, affordable, and reliable to suit the needs and the style of every woman. dsfasdasffdsfdddd

New Tudor Royal (above and right). WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

TEN REASONS WHY

BROOKL YN IS OUR HOME Let’s take a look at ten reasons why many New Yorkers and New York visitors consider Brooklyn the best place to be in New York City.

rooklyn has long played second fiddle to Manhattan but no more: it’s now the fastest growing borough in New York and with its 2.76 million residents, the most populated of them all. A destination in and of itself, Brooklyn is in the midst of a world-class renaissance with its myriad of attractions, history and cultural and gastronomic options that are appealing for locals and visitors alike. The more than two dozen neighborhoods in the borough each have a distinctive character and include the seaside enclave of Coney Island, hipster Williamsburg, artsy DUMBO, the elegant brownstone blocks that comprise Cobble Hill and the stately homes and peaceful multicultural community of Midwood. A mix of suburban and city, Brooklyn always manages to be surprising, capture interest, and, of course, delight. 1. PROSPECT PARK

Designed by Fredrick Law Olmstead and Calvert Vaux, the architects behind Central Park, the 585-acre Prospect Park is a complete immersion in nature. Located in Park Slope, its full of diversions such as an Audubon Center that showcases its wildlife, the 18 th century Lefferts Historic House, an ice-skating rink and endless walking and biking paths. 2. IT’S A FOODIE HEAVEN

With its more than 7,000 restaurants, Brooklyn’s food scene is unparalleled and continues to become increasingly dynamic. The lineup includes Michelin-starred and James-Beard award nominated boites such as Brooklyn Fare, every kind of ethnic eatery imaginable from Polish joints to Caribbean spots and food hallsDeKalb Market Hall in Downtown Brooklyn, featuring over 40 vendors including the globally known Katz’s Deli, among the bunch. 3. THE BARCLAYS CENTER

Michael’s of Sheephead Bay

The 18,200 seat Barclays Center is a Brooklyn anchor. It’s a venue to catch a Brooklyn Nets or New York Liberty basketball game, a boxing match, the circus and concerts from star artists such as Bruce Springsteen and Jay Z. It also boasts a theater for 7,700 and more than 50 food vendors. 4. MORE THAN THREE MILES OF BEACHES

Brooklyn’s three beaches- Coney Island, Brighton and Manhattan- offer 30 W I L L I A M B A R T H M A N J E W E L E R M A G A Z I N E

an escape from the bustle of city life and make for an “I’m on vacation” feel. Spanning more than three miles, Coney Island is the longest of the trio and features a boardwalk with an amusement park, games and food vendors such as the legendary Nathan’s Famous Hot Dogs. 5. THE BROOKLYN MUSEUM

The stunning neoclassical 19th century building that houses the Brooklyn Museum is a hint of the impressive collection that awaits visitors inside. The collection of more than a half-million works is comprised of masterpieces by famous artists such as Cezanne and Rothko and artifacts from all over the world including Egypt and Asia. The visiting exhibitions such as past ones dedicated to Frida Kahlo and Christian Dior are also a highlight. 6. THE BROOKLYN BRIDGE, DUMBO AND THE PROMENADE

Spanning more than 6,000 feet in length, the Brooklyn Bridge is a New York icon that sees more than 100,000 cars, 4,000 bikers and 10,000 pedestrians a day. It’s an architectural marvel lined by a scenic Promenade which features unbeatable views of Manhattan. DUMBO, with its parks, piers, galleries and buzzy restaurants, also runs along the bridge. 7. THE BROWNSTONES

Dating to the mid-19 th century, Brooklyn is notable for its vast number of picturesque brownstones, most of which are concentrated in Park Slope, Brooklyn Heights, Bedford Stuyvesant, Prospect Heights and Crown Heights. These grand homes are characterized by their high ceilings, wood floors, carved fireplaces and intricate millwork and moldings.

building, it offers 69 guest rooms with original high timber ceilings and oversized windows plus a world class collection of contemporary art. To dine and drink, there’s the French brasserie Le Crocodile and the see-and-be-seen Bar Blondeau. 9. THE BUSHWICK COLLECTIVE

Before Miami’s famous Wynwood Walls, there was Bushwick Collective, which is now the beating heart of New York’s thriving street art scene. Bushwick local Joe Ficalora is behind the sprawling open-gallery- a space that welcomes street artists worldwide to adorn the walls with their graffiti. The oversized works are creative and are sure to leave visitors impressed. 10. IN THE HEART OF BROOKLYN IS ONE OF NEW YORK’S PREMIER FINE JEWELERS

Yes, luxury shopping can be had in Brooklyn. In fact, a trip to Manhattan is no longer necessary for lovers of fine Swiss timepieces and designer jewelry, because one of the premier collections can be found at William Barthman Jeweler Brooklyn. Located in the increasingly affluent Midwood neighborhood, in the heart of Brooklyn, the jeweler’s history dates to 1884, and its 5,000 square-foot atelier is the only place in the borough to be home to prestigious brands such as Hublot, Bvlgari, IWC, Breitling, Damiani and Robert Coin.

8. THE WYTHE HOTEL

Forget the cookie-cutter hotels that Brooklyn was associated with. Today, sleek boutique properties abound. Williamsburg’s Wythe Hotel, for one, is a showcase for luxury and design. Situated in a turn of the 20th century WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

Octo Roma Chronograph watch with mechanical manufacture movement, blue Clous de Paris dial and interchangeable bracelet.

WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

ROMA RENAISSANCE First introduced in 2017, this newly redesigned Bulgari Octo Roma is a hands down winner.

ulgari’s latest collection of Octo Roma watches pays homage to the brand’s history, while sensitively adding advances in technique, style and function to make it beautifully of the moment. It all adds up to one of the watch world’s most iconic timepieces, ultra functional, highly attractive and a surprisingly affordable offering from one of the most luxurious of luxury houses. A visit to Bulgari’s headquarters makes it abundantly clear of one very special way that the maison has distinguished itself. The solidly dignified building resides in central Rome, across the street from the Tiber River. Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari’s CEO, once said, as he sat in his office overlooking the Tiber, that every day when the company’s designers go out to lunch, and walk the streets of Rome, they absorb inspiration, and when they return to the office, what they’ve seen and absorbed appears in their work. The influence is visible in Bulgari’s Monete collection, based on ancient Roman coins. On Diva’s Dream, echoing the fan-shaped mosaics in the historic Caracalla Baths. And in the Octo collection with its eightsided design inspired by the geometric motifs adorning the arches of the Pantheon and the vaults of the 4 th Century Basilica of Maxentius. But the excellence of Bulgari’s watches doesn’t stop at its singular design, steeped in Italian history filtered Octo Roma Chronograph watch with mechanical manufacture movement, blue Clous de Paris dial and through a modern Italian aesthetic. The watches are interchangeable bracelet. made in the capital of watchmaking, historically and today: Switzerland. Bulgari’s offices in the watch town of Neuchatel oversee the ateliers that painstakingly produce the intricate, complex, precision- perfect timepieces. The first Octo watch, the Octo l’Originale, was introduced in 2012, and featured what was to become the Octo collection’s signature case: an eight-sided octagonal shape set inside a circle, which is then set within another octagon that forms the perimeter. The interplay of shapes and textures—the circle is satinbrushed, the octagons are polished—“has had a considerable impact on the watchmaking communities over the last decade,” said Antoine Pin, Managing Director of Bulgari’s Watch Division. “In that time, its design had never been seen before. This skillful blend of profound innovation and powerful Italian-style design has WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

The new Octo Romas pay visible homage to Swiss horological history with their dials adorned with guilloche, where highly trained artisans engrave the surface with a minute pattern called Clous de Paris. significantly enriched Swiss watchmaking art. It really is a fantastic design, and a true icon of haute horlogerie.” In 2014, Bulgari launched their horological masterpiece: the Octo Finissimo Mechanical Tourbillon. The watch claimed to be the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, a mere 1.95 mm skinny. The achievement—putting all the hundreds of parts needed to make a watch tick, inside such a tiny space—earned the company more than 60 international awards, including the most coveted, the Aiguille d’Or, or best of show, at the watch industry’s Oscars, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. As the highly complicated, and expensive, Octo Finissimo continued to win awards, year after year, interest in the Octo collection increased, but for some, without the necessity for the skinny measurements and weighty price tag of the Finissimo. In 2017, the Octo Roma was released. The Octo Roma collection retains the Octo’s hallmarks: the layered octagon-within-aOcto Roma Automatic watch with mechanical manufacture movement, blue Clous de Paris dial and circle- within-an octagon case, interchangeable bracelet. the tribute to Roman history, the flair of Italian style, and the excellence of Swiss watchmaking. And then it refines its aesthetic and its technology. The new Octo Romas pay visible homage to Swiss horological history with their dials adorned with guilloche, a specialized skill that allows a highly trained artisan to engrave the surface with a minute pattern, in this case, the intricate Clous de Paris, or hobnail. There’s also a nifty, easy, one-touch system that allows for a change of watchband with the mere push of a button, hidden on the underside, no tool needed. Bulgari will deliver two wristbands at the time of purchase: a stainless-steel bracelet and a rubber strap, giving the freedom to switch looks whenever desired. Additional straps in rubber and alligator leather of various colours are available for purchase Octo Roma Automatic watch with mechanical manufacture separately. movement, white Clous de Paris dial and interchangeable The crown is incorporated into the case and safeguarded bracelet.∂ by crown protectors, allowing for a streamlined appearance and also safeguarding the screwed-down crown. The watches are waterproof to 100 meters, safe to wear for a splash in the pool or dive off the yacht. And the Octo Romas look just as good poolside as they do in the office or heading out 36

WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

for the night. This year Bulgari presents an Octo Roma Chronograph, providing what is arguably the most useful complication: the ability to measure time intervals. It is the first in the collection powered by the new Calibre BVL 399, a Swissmade in-house mechanical movement. The chronograph measures 42mm in diameter, with a choice of a black or blue dial. Bulgari also unveiled new Octo Roma Automatic models, powered by the in-house Calibre BVL 191, with a 42 hour power reserve. The watch measures 41 mm. and the dial comes in blue, anthracite or white. The dial also features hands, hour markers and Arabic nuOcto Roma Automatic watch with mechanical manufacture movement, merals at 6 and 12 o’clock all enhanced with anthracite Clous de Paris dial and interchangeable bracelet Super-LumiNova®. Said Antoine Pin: “I think we really succeeded in interpreting the Octo Roma in a new era of creativity, both without betraying its very strong design, and by offering it multiple possibilities of interpretation, which make it even more interesting.”

Octo Roma Automatic watch with mechanical manufacture movement, white Clous de Paris dial and interchangeable bracelet. WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

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the

premier league

The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 delivers a timeless elegance that is steeped in the history of aviation.

reitling, the luxury Swiss watch company, has made a name for itself as a champion of the chronograph — the watch that stars on the wrists of the world’s most beautiful people, like brand ambassadors Trevor Lawrence and Charlize Theron. And now the watch brand has launched six new models of its iconic Premier chronograph, presenting a new Premier league of timepieces that are as good-looking as they are reliable. The chronograph is one of the watch world’s most useful designs. At its most basic level, it displays the time while also acting as a stopwatch. Generations of the Breitling family, from founder Leon to his son Gaston and grandson Willy, have invented and patented refinements and complications to the chronograph, becoming acknowledged leaders in the industry. During WWII, Breitling’s reputation for expertise and reliability was called upon to provide aircraft instruments and tool watches for the British Royal Air Forces. By definition, tool watches, as these functional timepieces are known, need to be big, solid, and secure. A forward-thinking Willy Breitling, who had taken over the family firm in 1932, when he was only 19, envisioned a time when these hefty, super-useful watches would be worn off the battlefield, out of the cockpit and in peacetime — if they retained their same function but were made to be slimmer, more attractive, even elegant. He wanted this reimagined chronograph to be the best that Breitling had to offer—the best materials, best finishes and best calibers. In 1943, he unveiled the first of the best, the Premier. Breitling Premier In that same year, Breitling paid homage to its Premier Chronograph, 1943 collection by launching the Premier Heritage Chronograph collection, including two additional chronographs with added complications, the Duograph and the Datora. The line captured Willy Breitling’s intent for his watches to express “the unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste.” Once again, the superior functionality of the chronograph was combined with the classic, refined attractiveness of a dress watch. And now, to celebrate the Premier’s 80th birthday, Breitling is once again paying homage to the best of the best by bringing out six new models, the Premier B01 Chronograph 42. The new releases all share a handsome, vintage-inspired design, a 42mm case, a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, and water resistance up to 100 meters. Plus, they all have Super Lumin-Nova® luminescent hour and minute hands. 41 W I L L I A M B A R T H M A N J E W E L E R M A G A Z I N E 25 41

One of the most important qualities of these new models is that they all contain Breitling’s Manufacture Caliber 01. Only a handful of independent watch companies make their own movements, and the Breitling Caliber 01, invented in 2009, is considered one of the most precise in the industry. It received the prestigious COSC certification for accuracy within -4 and +6 seconds a day. (COSC is the official Swiss testing institute responsible for certifying the accuracy and precision of Swiss watches.) The Caliber 01 was redesigned last year to be slimmer, with a more compact oscillating weight; the attractive results can be viewed through the watch’s transparent sapphire crystal caseback. In addition to the stringent COSC testing, Breitling conducts its own in-house tests to confirm that the new Premier B01 Chronograph 42 can withstand an incredible 60,000 shocks at 500G, 100,000 crown winds, 3,456,000 oscillating weight turns and 5,840 start-stop-reset clicks on its pusher. It’s undeniable that the Premier can stand up to whatever punishment an average customer puts it through (and then some). That it will do so with the smooth style, vintage appeal and timeless good looks of a luxury dress watch is just as certain. The proof can be seen immediately: the new releases offer a selection of striking colors for the dial that give an edge to the stainless steel casings. The new color choices are salmon, blue, green, black and cream, each with tone-on-tone chronograph counters. There’s also a choice of a black, goldbrown, or brown alligator leather strap, or a stainless steel seven-row bracelet. Another new Premier 01 Chronograph 42 is a stunning 18-Karat red-gold model with a cream dial, which also comes with tone-on-tone chronograph counters. This model has either a brown alligator leather strap or an 18-Karat gold seven-row bracelet. The Premier is widely regarded as one of the world’s great timepieces—a watch that married its Breitling Premier B01 functional wartime genesis with a contemporary Chronograph in 18K red-gold sense of style. The Premier brings professional-level performance to an attractive watch that can be worn anywhere, informal or formal, day or night. A new book commemorates this important development in watches, and celebrates the Premier’s birthday. “Premier Story” is part of the “Watch Stories” series available on watchprint.com. To write it, descendant Gregory Breitling chose Fred Mandelbaum, Breitling’s official brand historian and the world’s foremost collector of Premier watches, and gave him unparalleled access to the family archives — the photos and papers that bring the story of this remarkable watch alive. 42 W I L L I A M B A R T H M A N J E W E L E R M A G A Z I N E 26

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43 27

LOVE IN VERONA

the

MIDAS TOUCH Roberto Coin is one of the world’s most popular jewelry designers. His designs, inspired by Vicenza, Italy’s “City of Gold,” radiate luxury, style, and sophistication.

y luck or by fate, Roberto Coin began life in the perfect place to pursue his passion. The company he founded in 1977, which still bears his name, is headquartered in his birthplace: Vicenza, the Italian city famed the world over for its gold and jewelry. Today, the Roberto Coin name is credited with more than 45 years of history-making concepts and creations, and has become synonymous with inventive and timeless jewelry design. The history of the Roberto Coin company is marked by innovation, but the driving force behind the creation of the jewels has always been one man: Roberto himself. Known for his innate appreciation of color, style, and texture, he gives himself over completely to his passion — designing jewelry that entices women. It’s the unique and individual beauty of women, he says, that inspires him to please their whims through his work. Coin and his team of highly skilled craftsmen blend ageold methods with modern techniques to create the styles the company is famous for. Roberto Coin At first Coin worked primarily in gold; then he gradually added gemstones and diamonds to his designs. In 1978, his company was the first to use three-color gold, which rapidly became de rigueur in fashion capitals around the globe. Ten years later, Roberto Coin was the first to work with high-quality two-color gold, and in 1990, the first to bring satin and silk finishes back into style. When Coin introduced a white gold collection in 1992, it met with skepticism in the trade but soon became a fashion must-have. And in 1998, the company realized a dream: the creation of woven jewels, as supple as fabric. Coin strives to be original yet authentic in this fast-spinning universe. "I always wanted to create If fashion is the art of being different, he predicts, today's high-tech jewelry that has style and world will soon be yearning for authentically handmade jewelry. personality balanced "Whether it’s made of gold or platinum, with colored gemstones or with between modern & timeless." diamonds, the important thing is the pleasure of creating timeless exRoberto Coin amples of an ancient art," he says. Coin’s diverse collections are designed to fit every woman and enhance her uniqueness, and are defined by a common thread — a thoughtful balance of elegance and creativity. Included in every piece is Coin’s signature ruby, which carries a magical story: an ancient Egyptian belief that a ruby close to the skin brings long life, good health, and joy. To Coin, the ruby symbolizes peace, prosperity, and happiness, and represents a special wish from the designer to all who wear his creations. 46

WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

Love in Verona Collection

Cialoma Collection

Duchessa Collection

Venetian Princess Collection

The Coin Venetian Princess exceptional. Theruby design of these peace, jewels close Roberto to the skin brings long life, goodCollection health, andisjoy. To Coin, the symbolizes hides a complex structure made of twisted wire, visible only to those who wear them. This allure prosperity, and happiness, and represents a special wish from the designer to all who wear his of mystery serves as a reminder of Venice, famous for its countless legends and secrets passed creations. from The generation to generation. Love in Verona Collection is inspired by the city of Verona, the symbol of love and the setting The Love in Verona Collection is inspired by the city of Verona, the symbol of love and the of the story of Romeo and Juliet. Love in Verona strengthens the bond between Roberto Coin and setting of the story of Romeo and Juliet. Love in Verona strengthens the bond between Roberto the Italian cities that inspire him. The collection’s simple, contemporary look conveys a soul as ancient Coin and the Italian cities that inspire him. The collection’s simple, contemporary look conveys as eternal love. a soul as ancient as eternal love. The Roberto Coin Princess exceptional. The designshowcases of these jewels hides a Duchessa: Italian forVenetian duchess, evokesCollection a gloriousis past. The Collection traditional complex structure of twisted wire, visibleenhancing only to those whoand wearfeatures them. This allure mystery craftsmanship, artfulmade tributes with diamonds beauty open linkofbracelets, serves as earrings, a reminder of Venice, for its countless legends and secrets passed from generation necklaces, and rings infamous 18K gold. The Cialoma Collection was inspired by the Mediterranean world that reflects all the to generation. fascination of Southern offeringpast. a bold with showcases a new twist on the classic Duchessa: Italian for Italian duchess,tradition evokes a glorious The look Collection traditional craftslinkmanship, style. artful tributes with diamonds enhancing beauty and features open link bracelets, necklaces, Since Roberto Coin caters to the diverse tastes of the European, North American, South earrings, and rings in 18K gold. American, Eastern, and Far Eastern markets, each year it produces more than 600 new jewelry The Cialoma Collection was inspired by the Mediterranean world that reflects all the fascination of pieces. "The company is built on a culture of attention that is rooted in respect for the individual Southern Italian tradition offering a bold look with a new twist on the classic link style. and shared by our workers,” says Coin. “We give attention to our customers by providing them Since Roberto Coin caters to the diverse tastes of the European, North American, South American, with jewels that help them express their individuality.” Eastern, andluxurious Far Easternaccessories, markets, each yearby it produces 600 new jewelry pieces. "The More than jewels Roberto more Cointhan are precious, wearable creations company a culture of attention that is rooted respect style for the shared by designed byisa built man on whose dedication to innovation andintimeless is individual more thanand a passion — workers,” says Coin. “We give attention to our customers by providing them with jewels that it’s our a birthright. help them express their individuality.” More than luxurious accessories, jewels by Roberto Coin are precious, wearable creations designed by a man whose dedication to innovation and timeless style is more than a passion — it’s a birthright. 48

WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

MOSAIC & VENETIAN PRINCESS

designer

spotlight Every hand-made Damiani creation reflects the family’s passion for fine jewelry design, handed down for three generations. by m i c h e l l e o r m an

Giorgio, Guido and Silvia Daminai

or three gen-

inum, diamonds and emeralds; she would place it on her

erations, the

dress and admire its effect, personally experiencing jew-

D a m i a n i

elry’s transformational abilities. Even the destinations

name has been syn-

for their family vacations revolved around the locations

onymous with excel-

of sellers from whom their father needed to purchase

lence in innovation,

stones. Today, now at the helm of the business, the sib-

craftsmanship and de-

lings continue to work with the children of those same

sign.

stone dealers.

Fo u n d e d

Valenza Po, Italy in

A commitment to honor their heritage permeates all

1924 by Enrico Dami-

aspects of the business. The brand’s jewelry is impeccably

ani, the brand’s rapid

crafted, adhering to the exacting manufacturing stan-

success was bolstered

dards that lie at the foundation of their long-standing and

by its founder’s excep-

far-reaching reputation. All components of its collections

tional goldsmithing

are handmade in-house by skilled goldsmiths who have

skills, which quickly

passed down their craft through

became sought-after

generations, and Damiani’s work

by some of the country’s most important families. When

is characterized by sophisticated

he joined his father’s company, Damiano, who was born in

design and meticulously sourced

1934, was instrumental in guiding the company’s evolution

materials.

by launching a process of industrial and commercial ex-

One of their latest collections,

pansion. He also established the brand as an industry trail-

Margherita, pays tribute to the

blazer

then

refined beauty of Margherita of

revolutionary ideas of guaranteed pricing and the creation

Savoy, “the most loved Queen of

of catalogues featuring all of the brand’s collections.

Italy.” Another recent collection

through

the

implementation

the

DamianiMargherita Bel Epoque Reel Damiani RingRing

that is steeped in emotion and passion is Mimosa, which A COMMITMENT TO HONOR THEIR HERITAGE PERMEATES ALL ASPECTS OF THE BUSINESS.

is inspired by the flower of the same name and captures its noted “apparent chaos” with a unique, three-dimensional construction.

For the third generation, Silvia, Giorgio and Guido, the

Silvia, Giorgio and Guido now oversee hundreds of

family business has always been the orbit around which

employees, a group of complementary jewelry busi-

their lives were organized. All three were immersed in

nesses and single-brand boutiques in some of the most

jewelry and gemstones for their entire lives, constantly

celebrated shopping and cultural destinations in the

surrounded by a tangible sense of passion and purpose.

world. They are also dedicated to paying back their debt

Coming home from school as a child, Silvia would

to nature, remembering how their father loved to say,

pass by her parent’s atelier and stop in to admire her fa-

“Nature gives us beautiful things, our job is to make them

vorite piece, “the green horse,” a brooch made of plat-

more beautiful.”

50 50 W I L L I A M B A R T H M A N J E W E L E R M A G A Z I N E

Book online at bensimonspa.com 468 Avenue P, Brooklyn NY 11223

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TIMELINE... a concise history of ladies’ wristwatches.

1571 Queen Elizabeth I is known to have received a gift of a small timepiece in 1571. Robert Dudley gave her the watch encased in a bracelet, the first known wristwatch in England.

1868

Women were at least five decades if not more than a century ahead of the first mens wristwatch, a watch made for a pilot in the early 1900s. Ladies wristwatches became a popular jewelry accessory, often encrusted with precious jewels and diamonds. At left a wristwatch made for the Countess Koscowicz of Hungary.

One of the oldest known bracelet-watches. Movement signed Capt & Freundler à Genève, 1813 can be viewed at the Musée d’Horlogerie du Locle, Switzerland.

1890s

1927 Rolex patents its first “Oyster watch” with a waterproof case and screw-in crown. Mercedes Gleitse swims the English Channel wearing one. She emerges after 15 hours with the watch working perfectly.

1813

The first wristwatches with leather bands appeared in the late 19th century. English noblewomen found them most practical when hunting on horseback.

1950s

Women's watches were rarely seen in the conservative 1950s and when ladies did wear these items they usually wore the type that has a leather strap like a belt to fasten them to the wrist.

2014

Women adopted the wristwatch for its modern avant garde image and were encouraged to own several and adapt them to their outfits and activities.

1970’s During the quartz dominated 70s the ladies wristwatch was reduced to its most simple expression and opened up endless possibilities for style and elegance. Goldie Hawn

Today

Women's watches with mechanical craftsmanship and quality made a comeback during the 1990s and into the 2000s. Watch wearers recognized the benefits and pleasure of interacting with a mechanical device as part of their daily routine.

A luxury timepiece interests a buyer, not because |it’s made from gold or it’s studded with diamonds (though these have an effect on the value too) but because of its history, craftsmanship and exclusivity. Two-tone gold watches are all the rage for the new age femme fatale. The touch of yellow gold adds just the right dose of feminine beauty to the pieces.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 New Tudor Royal 56

WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER MAGAZINE

19 20

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