Moretti's Fine Jewelry Magazine

MAGAZINE

RAINFOREST GUARDIAN

Rolex Associate Laureate Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time

NOW IS THE TIME! Reasons to invest in a fine Swiss timepiece

REDEFINING LUXURY

Inside the new Patek Philippe manufacture

Objects of

DESIRE

The Nudo collection of rings and earrings is so everyday elegant — and colors so bold and playful, you'll want to mix, stack and collect.

EVERY JEWELRY HOUSE HAS AT LEAST ONE STYLE THAT'S

technique that does away with prongs. And beyond sparkling with a

entirely its own, and the enduring signature of Pomellato is the Nudo

palette of colors — London blue topaz, pale pink quartz, violet ame-

Collection. The 53-year-old Milanese company has made its mark with

thyst, green prasiolite — The company is committed to sustain-

luscious-looking gemstones in simple settings that are meant to be

able and ethical jewelry-making practices.

worn every day — as opposed to remaining locked away in a safe, says Pino Rabolini, the founder, who grew up in a family of goldsmiths.

What makes Nudo (named after the Italian word for "naked")

Now comes the hard part: choosing your power color — the one that's entirely your own worn for luck and confidence. But don't stop there. These are pieces meant to be mixed and

rings, earrings and pendants so special is the setting. The bright

matched, stacked and collected. May we suggest a couple of

stones are almost fully exposed, held in place by an inventive

single-stone stacking rings.

Pomellato jewels are designed to be worn daily, making them popular gifts that can be enjoyed year-round.

6 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

IT‘S AN ABSOLUTE PLEASURE TO WELCOME YOU

one cellphone at a time on page 12. On page 26, learn

to Moretti’s Fine Jewelry Magazine, which is a great

how Patek Philippe upholds a tradition in complications

way for us to share our considerable knowledge

— annual calendars, dual time zones, world time displays

about fine jewelry and timepieces with loyal cus-

— that are unrivaled in watchmaking art. And on page

tomers like you.

20, we’ll take you inside the company’s new head-

While our favorite part of the business is getting to know you when you stop by our store looking for that perfect engagement ring, birthday surprise or holiday

quarters — that, on the exterior, looks like a luxury cruise ship.

And during the busy days ahead, as we enter the

gift, we also hope you enjoy flipping through these

most festive time of the year, we invite you to come

pages, where we’ll help you find some great new jewelry

into our store and let our team of watch and gem-

pieces — including chic new looks from our Melissa

stone experts find just the right gifts for everyone on

Kaye collection (page 42) that are so everyday wear-

your list. We wish you happy holidays and look

able, you’ll never want to take them off.

forward to seeing you.

You'll read about Rolex Associate Laureate and conser-

vation technologist Topher White who is saving the climate

8 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

With kind regards, Jill & Mike Moretti

T H E

M A G A Z I N E

by M O R E T T I ’ S

CONTENTS

F I N E

J E W E L R Y

VOL.2, NO. 1

FEATURES 12

RAINFOREST

GUARDIAN Rolex Associate Laureate and conservation technologist Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time.

16

ON OUR COVER

Four noted watch experts weigh in on what to buy now.

Shimmering like sand in the sun, the exquisite pavé of diamonds in Pomellato’s Sabbia Ring dazzle as they catch the light.

A SMART INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY — A SWISS TIMEPIECE

20

COLUMNS 6

REDEFINING LUXURY

Inside Patek Philippe’s new manufacture.

22

LUXURY SUVS — OUR 2021 PREVIEW

26

IT’S COMPLICATED

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

Pomellato’s Nudo Collection harnesses the power of color.

Luxury SUVs are bigger, faster and some come with all the comforts of a private jet.

15

ICONIC EXCELLENCE

Beyond telling time, Patek Philippe upholds a tradition in complications — annual calendars, dual time zones, world time displays — that are unrivaled in watchmaking art.

28

The Rolex Lady-DateJust is a classic for a reason.

19

ITALIAN STYLE

$17,752,500 Daytona and more.

These playful, jubilant designs from Pomellato are motivation to get dressed up again.

38

ALL THAT GLITTERS

42

STYLE STAPLES

THE FIVE MOST

EXPENSIVE WRISTWATCHES EVER SOLD AT AUCTION Paul Newman’s

36

WATCHSPEAK

Uncomplicating the world of fine timepiece complications.

Diamonds are still a girl’s best friend.

40

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT

Italy’s Giuseppe Picchiotti is the master of gemstones.

Chic and easy jewelry that you can wear every day from Melissa Kaye.

10 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

Rainforest

GUARDIAN Rolex Associate Laureate and conservation technologist Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time

Topher White hoisting himself into the treetops.

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A LOT OF WORLD-FAMOUS ENTREPRENEURS STARTED THEIR COMPANIES IN A garage. That includes the founders of Amazon, Apple and Google — and Topher White, the founder of Rainforest Connection. His idea for repurposing used cellphones to create a surveillance system of listening devices that can report illegal logging in the world's most vulnerable rain forests started in his parents' garage in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood of San Francisco.

For more than four decades, Rolex has supported exceptional individuals like White, who have the spirit of enterprise, initiating extraordinary projects that help make the world a better place.

The first Rolex Awards were presented in 1976 to commemorate the anniversary of the iconic Rolex Oyster Watch. And in the decades since, an impressive roster of laureates — whose passions and projects reflect the concerns of the times — have been chosen from around the globe. Over the last six years, use of White's monitoring devices

Topher White

has expanded well beyond his garage to remote rainforests throughout the world. It also earned him a coveted Rolex Award for Enterprise.

Every second of the day, approximately two and a half acres of tropical forests are destroyed or drastically degraded, according to the INCUR (International Union for Conservation of Nature), threatening the survival of many species. Illegal logging is the biggest contributor to deforestation, which in turn contributes to climate change. With the world’s rainforests now shrinking so fast that they may be gone by 2100, the need for ways to prevent illegal logging and monitor forest wildlife is urgent.

White's system, in which he rigs a cellphone to stay charged by solar cells was designed to do just that. “One of the most amazing things is that we’re using old technology, the stuff no one’s excited about, to do really cutting-edge science and conservation around the world,” White explains. “We take an old cellphone – the ones everyone

13 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

“The amount of land protected will be the equivalent of taking six million cars off the road, 400 million trees protected, and 30 million tonnes of CO2 sequestered.” Topher White throws away – and we can put it high up in the trees of the rainforest.

It can listen to all the sounds and, using artificial intelligence, we can pick out the noise of chain saws, logging trucks, road building – or even of endangered species of birds or animals.”

Currently, hundreds of the treetop monitoring devices have been installed over multiple continents creating a powerful "forest guardian" standing ready to provide timely warnings to communities and law enforcement agencies. “We form partnerships with local tribes, government agencies and community groups, and we can send alerts to them so they can actually show up and stop the illegal activity in real time, on the ground,” White says.

The same technology is also being used to monitor the sounds of rare or important species of birds and animals, providing scientists

White's monitoring devices can detect illegal logging activity and send a text alert to authorities.

with a way to study the health of wildlife populations in a given area

in Brazil, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Romania, South Africa, Belize, Peru, the Philippines and the Indonesian island of Sumatra. “A really important element of what we do is work with local people, the ones who are protecting these areas, as they can have the biggest impact in fighting climate change,” he adds.

What's next for White: “Rainforest Connection technology has surpassed its proof-of-concept phase and has moved into expansion with over 60 new projects in the pipeline. The amount of land protected will be the equivalent of taking six million cars off the road, 400 million trees protected and 30 million tonnes of CO2 sequestered.”

And it all started in a garage.

White's petal-shaped solar panels are designed to catch the dappled sunlight in the jungle. adding momentum to conservation. The sounds are live-streamed, creating a vast digital library that gives scientists raw acoustic data.

“We should be able to detect animals that don’t even make sounds.

Jaguars might not always be vocalizing, but birds and other animals around them are,” he says.

White and his nonprofit group, Rainforest Connection, have extensively tested forest-guardian technology with local communities

Use of the devices has expanded throughout the world.

14 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

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A smart investment opportunity

Swiss Timepieces Four noted fine watch experts share their opinions on what to buy now RIGHT NOW, BUYING A NEW WATCH COULD BE ONE OF THE

Case in point: Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. Its original design, from

smartest investments around. It’s a purchase that can be worn, enjoyed

1976, with the rounded octagonal bezel, brought a certain elegance to

and even sold — eventually — at a nice profit. The prices paid at auction

the sport watch category that continues. “It is sought-after today,” Bou-

for vintage (ie, “pre-owned”) watches are breaking all records. Six figures,

tros contends. Another reason, besides its good looks: “It’s recogniza-

seven figures, even eight (as in $10

ble. That’s key to its appeal.” And it’s the key to any status symbol: a

million and up) are not uncommon.

design so distinctive it can be instantly identified.

Buying a new watch as a money-

Paul Boutros

Another classic that could make a good investment, Boutros main-

maker to sell later is becoming as

tains, is “Audemars Piguet’s latest reference of their Royal Oak, 15202,

shrewd an investment as snap-

and their Perpetual Calendar Royal Oak model.” These updates of “origi-

ping up a Lamborghini Miura, a Bir-

nal watches from the 1970s remain highly relevant in terms of style and

kin bag or a pair of Air Jordans.

the case shape.” The first Royal Oak shook up the industry with its

“It’s a good time to buy a

unique, signature octagonal bevel anchored with eight hexagonal

great watch,” says Paul Boutros, head of watches, Americas, for Phillips,

screws, and the novel grid pattern on its dial. “Its masculine aesthetic

arguably the global leader in watch auctions. “In times of uncertainty,

has stood the test of time; demand for these

people look for safe havens for their money. Right now conditions are

modern versions in boutiques proves that,”

favorable for putting money into hard assets as a hedge.” And a new

Boutros says. It’s a track record that

watch, just like gold, is one of the best hedges right now.

bodes well for the watch’s maintaining if

But not just any watch. Knowing which one to purchase now — one that might reap a huge reward if eventually sold — is a tricky busi-

not increasing its value in the future.

Boutros also thinks no one can go

ness. The heads of the watch departments at the world’s top auction

wrong buying a stainless steel Rolex.

houses are the likeliest to know, because their job is to evaluate, accept

“They are relevant for today’s lifestyle, as

and then sell watches that were once brand-new, and have, over time,

more people are dressing casual, whether on

become more valuable. These experts have the most informed advice

Zoom meetings or even at the office with busi-

on the best new watches to buy right now.

ness casual,” he says. “ Rolex’s Submariner, GMT-Master II and

When buying a new timepiece, Boutros advises that “blue chip

Rolex GMT-Master II

Daytona are graceful evolutions true to the originals that have been pro-

watches may be good investments” and suggests buyers “look for

duced continually to today.” They have proven to hold their appeal, and

classic, timeless styles from proven brands — they have enduring

their value.

value.” That’s especially true if they have been given exciting new upto-the-minute twists.

Another big fan of Rolex sports models is Richard Lopez, senior specialist for watches at Sotheby’s in New York. “They continue to be

16 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner

Patek Philippe Calatrava

Richard Lopez

popular among seasoned collectors as

steel and features a unique complication: the weekly calendar. The type-

well as new collectors just getting into

face that Patek used for this model is intended to resemble handwritten

the watch game.” Meaning, if you buy

characters, something that has not really been seen before.”

one now, you’re likely to find a collector

He singles out some other brands to in-

who will want to buy it from you in the fu-

vest in as well, zeroing in on “specific models

ture. Examples that Lopez believes will

that have the potential to hold or even grow

hold or increase their value include “the Steel Green Submariner ‘Hulk’,

in value.” From Tudor he recommends the

the Steel Ceramic Daytona Ref. 116500LN, Steel GMT Ceramic ‘Pepsi’

recently introduced Tudor Black Bay Fifty-

126710 BLRO and the Steel GMT Ceramic ‘Batman’ 126710BLNR.”

Eight Navy Blue. “Collectors love blue dials,

Steel models from other watch houses are good investments too, Lopez maintains. “Steel models by Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are extremely sought after and rare, yielding the highest returns,” he says. “Examples of

term winner. Even the original black-dialed Fifty-Eight is still a good potential variant.”

Tudor Black Bay 58

Rebecca Ross, Christie’s watch spe-

current Patek Philippe models to invest in in-

cialist in New York, says “rarity is a big factor” when buying a new watch

clude the Steel Aquanaut Ref. 5167, Steel

with long-term investment value in mind. “If there are fewer of the

Nautilus Ref. 5711 and Steel Calatrava Ref.

watches made, the watch will keep its resale value.” She singles out “the

5522. Audemars Piguet examples include

independent watchmaker F.P. Journe, which makes less than 900

the Steel Royal Oak on bracelet and Steel

watches per year, which compared to other brands is very low. F.P.

Royal Oak Chrono on bracelet.”

Journe is also having a significant moment right now with a number of

At the influential watch website Hodinkee, Brandon Frazin plays the same role as Patek Philippe Aquanaut

in my experience, and this could be a long-

his older watches, so I would not be surprised if some current models from the brand go up in the future.”

the pros at the auction houses. He is the

Ross also suggests looking for

vintage manager and must decide which watches to accept for sale,

“watches that are not run-of-the-mill pro-

and he knows which watches sell well. Frazin is another believer that

ductions, that have details others do

sports watches are good investments these days. As more people

not.” And keep all paperwork at the

are working from home, a business suit and tie are becoming things

point of purchase. “All modern watches

of the past.

should have their documentation, so Within the sports watch category,

make sure you keep the boxes and

Frazin put his faith in Rolex. He advises

papers.” Documentation increases the value of the watch down the

new purchasers to “consider the

line when it’s sold.

models most everyone is aware of,

Brandon Frazin

Rebecca Ross

More good advice, from Ross: “Look after the watch you buy.

including sport models like the Day-

Service it regularly, every three to five years, and change nothing. You

tona, the GMT-Master II, the Subma-

want all the parts, the case, the dial and the movement to be as original

riner and the Sea-Dweller.”

as possible.” Also, before purchasing any new watch, especially if it’s a

And he believes in another blue-chip industry leader, Patek Philippe.

possible investment, she points out, it’s important to educate yourself.

“Look for sport watches from other prestigious Swiss brands like Patek

Go to auctions, take a seat and read the catalogues. That’s a great way

Philippe, with the Nautilus and Aquanaut,” he advises. “And the Patek

to learn about the market, and it’s a lot of fun. You’re always welcome.”

Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5212. It's an interesting design that is cased in

And she advises, as do all the pros: Buy what you love.

18 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

The

5

most expensive wristwatches ever sold at auction

The most expensive watch that ever changed hands at

collectors are those paid for watches at

auction was the one-off Patek Phillippe Grandmaster

regular auctions, and they’ve reached in-

Chime sold last year in Geneva for $31 million. The occa-

credible highs as well. The top prices

sion was the 2019 Only Watch auction, a charity event

ever paid for these timepieces should in-

run by Christies. Prices are always unusually high in the name of doing good. The prices that interest most

spire any enthusiast to buy a new one with the potential to sell later — and retire.

$17,752,500 $9,008,856 $5,937,500

Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, Phillips, New York 2017. Arguably the most famous timepiece in the world.

Patek Philippe World Time in 18K rose pink gold with double-signed dial, Christie's Christie's,Hong HongKong Kong2019.

2019.One Oneofof only seven 2523 dual-crown world Ref. 2523 dual-crown time wristwatches believed to haveto world-time wristwatches believed been issuedissued in roseingold. and only have been pink gold — and the betooffered at auction. onlyfifth theto fifth be offered at auction.

The Unicorn: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6265 Phillips, Geneva 2018. Called the Unicorn because of its rarity, it is the only known white gold manual-winding Daytona ever produced.

$5,708,885

Patek Philippe18K gold perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphase, Christies, Geneva 2010.

Only one other single-signed example is known to exist.

$11,002,000

Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph in stainless steel, Phillips, Geneva 2016. It is the first perpetual calendar with chronograph functions.

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Redefining Luxury Inside Patek Philippe's new headquarters PATEK PHILIPPE MAY BE A VENERABLE BRAND, ESTABLISHED in 1839, but the company's new Geneva headquarters couldn't be

the impression is that of a huge ocean liner.

Inside the building is divided into five main areas. Both the

more modern, bringing all the stages of fine watchmaking under

ground and first floor are designated for watch production. The

one 1.2 million-square-foot roof. With 10 floors (five above ground,

second floor houses the ateliers responsible for machining,

four below), walls and walls of glass windows (abundant daylight is

manual polishing, gemsetting and the assembly of cases,

a must) and white concrete passageways along the entire facade,

bracelets and other exterior parts. The restoration of antique

20 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

White concrete passageways along the entire facade give the impression of a huge ocean liner.

The limited edition Calatrava

timepieces also takes place here. The third floor is home to

with a fantastic panoramic view of the bucolic landscape and

departments such as research and development, haute hor-

nearby mountains.

logerie and prototyping and the fourth floor is where rare hand-

To celebrate this move into their new headquarters, Patek

crafting skills, including manual engraving, enameling and

Philippe also introduced a limited edition Calatrava watch

guilloching, are performed. The fifth floor is crowned by a pent-

(1,000 units) — a seriously sporty model, and not unlike the

house restaurant for 880 guests as well as four VIP lounges, all

company's new digs, redefines luxury.

21 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

Luxury SUVS OUR 2021 PREVIEW

Bentley Bentayga Hybrid

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Luxury SUVs are bigger, faster and some come with all the comforts of a private jet

Lamborghini Urus THE SUV SCRAMBLED UP 5,000 FEET AND AROUND 164 CORNERS AVERAGING 66 MPH to the top of historic Pikes Peak in 10 minutes and 49 seconds. A world’s record for any vehicle in that climb.

And the SUV was a Bentley. A what?

Yes, the Bentley Bentayaga, one of the world’s most expensive SUVs with a starting price of $300,000, a top end of 190 mph on the highway and a head-turning 3.8 seconds in 0-60 with an optional 626-horsepower 12-cylinder engine Bentley is just one of the big-name, top-dollar luxury-car manufacturers turning out SUVs that 23 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

SUVs are outselling sedans two to one, with all the luxury add-ons and safety features of sedans plus more cargo space and better views. with new technology can jam up and down hills, win highway drag

bounce a bit while drinking a glass of Champagne from the $47,000

races or coddle you as you drive around town in extreme luxury and

optional cooler, while sitting in specially padded $27,000 “sanctuary

with the ultimate in safety add-ons.

seats” in the back.

Luxury SUVs offer an extraordinary driving experience combined with more cargo space and better views. That’s why SUVs are outselling sedans two to one.

Seats that massage, heat and ventilate with 22-way power settings (an extra $11,855 on the Bentley) along with 20-speaker sound systems, 10.2-inch touch-screen infotainment displays, self-parking,

The wildest and crazy-cool looking SUV is the $222,004, 664 hp Lamborghini Urus in outrageous orange paint it calls Arancio Borealis

Lamborghini Urus ENGINE:

POWER:

TOP SPEED:

2.7-liter, turbocharged V-8

654 hp

170 MPH

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

3.8 sec

$222,004

Bluetooth, GPS navigation and a multitude of safety features like pedestrian detectors that will slam on the brakes if you don’t — are all available with the top-end models. Some have hybrid assistance. All that, in addition to the extra bulk, typically means mileage of between

Bentley Bentayga Hybrid ENGINE:

POWER:

TOP SPEED:

4.0-liter, turbocharged V-8

641 hp

190 MPH

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

3.2 sec

$300,000

with a matching interior. It still looks like a Lambo racing sedan, very sleek and mean, but it can tow 7,000 pounds and it can equal Bentley’s 190 mph top end. Plus it has an adjustable suspension and can raise or lower itself by six inches to accommodate terrain.

Another luxurious and very popular all-terrain SUV is the Mercedes AMG G63, starting at $259,000. It has three different locking differentials and a low-range gear, which means it can tackle any 12 and 20 per gallon, so prepare to open your wallet at the gas tank.

And if the Bentley Bentayaga doesn’t suit you, how about a Rolls Royce Black Badge Cullinan? It’s named for the largest diamond (3,107.6 carats) ever discovered, found in 1906 in South Africa, now

steep grade very, very slowly, or turn that off and zip from zero to 60 in under five seconds while all five of you are sitting in contoured Nappa leather seats and enjoying a massage.

And opt for the roof with obsidian black metallic paint for $1,100

safely locked up in the Tower of London and worth about $2 billion.

extra, and a matching obsidian black ring around the spare-tire

The Rolls has a bare-bones starting price of $382,000.

housing on the back for an extra $1,000, and a carbon fiber engine

It’s not as fast as the Bentley with a top end of only 155, but with a plusher ride and almost equal off-road capability if you’re willing to

cover for $1,500. When you lift the hood, this Mercedes should look serious.

24 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

Mercedes AMG G63

machine, a PlayStation and the most luxurious seating imaginable.

But it is so heavy — over nineteen feet long and eight feet wide — the

ENGINE:

POWER:

TOP SPEED:

4.0-liter, turbocharged V-8

550 hp

150 MPH

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

4.8 sec

$259,000

top end is a meager 87 miles an hour.

If you’re not worried about getting attacked by an infantry platoon, you can always settle for offerings by Maserati, Ford, Porsche, BMWX7 and just about every other manufacturer. But most do not have much standard off-road capability and are typically used around town or for long-distance travel. For example, the $100,000+BMWX7 needs a $1,650 optional off-road package with skid plates and

Karlman King TOP SPEED:

ENGINE:

POWER:

6.8-liter, twinturbocharged V-10

360 Hp

87 MPH

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

N/A

$1.9 million

There are many other SUVs to choose from, far less expensive than the ultra-luxurious and super-fast, among them the all-American Jeep, nastier-looking than ever in the $43,895 Gladiator Rubicon model, which is bigger than the Wrangler you’re used to seeing. It comes with extra storage capacity and an optional three-piece $2,295 body-paint-coordinated hard top. An unusual feature is the $595 forward-facing camera so on the 8.4-inch touch screen, you can see objects on the trail or forest floor as close as two feet in front of you and provide a view of distance as well.

And how about going camping with your SUV? Hit the trail in a $72,895 Ford King Ranch with an optional $369 9-foot by 9-foot

push-button driving modes labeled sand, gravel, rocks and snow.

Sportz Tent by Napier that attaches to the cargo rear and sleeps four

Now that is entitled luxury.

to six people. It has a waterproof floor, lantern holder, two entrance doors, storm flaps and mesh windows. And the SUV seats eight, with power folding heated rear seats.

And here’s an unexpected entry.

Ferrari. Yes, the renowned racecar and hypersport manufacturer will be coming out with an SUV, the Purosangue, in 2022. Specifica-

Meanwhile, if you want to buy the most expensive SUV ever

tions have not been announced, but the word is it’s likely to have a

made, the $1.9 million Karlmann King, designed in China and assem-

turbocharged V-8 with hybrid assistance and to pump out around

bled almost completely by hand in Italy can be ordered from the

650 horsepower.

company, but only about 10 have been made so far. It’s a beast at

Starting price is estimated at $350,000.

10,580 pounds, has optional bulletproofing, a refrigerator, a coffee

Get in line.

25 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

It’s COMPLICATED Great selections from our Patek Philippe collection 1925 With model 97 975, Patek Philippe introduced its first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar.

Originally, a ladies' pendant watch made in 1898, it was transformed into a wristwatch that indicates the day of the month. The golden hand centered on the dial jumps correctly from one month to the next — even in a leap year. A subdial at 6 o'clock indicates the month.

PERPETUAL CALENDAR Ref. 5320G. Patek Philippe has recently introduced a new self-winding perpetual calendar with a vintage-style case. It has three-tier lugs as well as a lacquered cream dial graced with luminous numerals and hands. The timepiece was inspired by exhibitions in the Patek Philippe Museum from the 1940s and '50s. Its heart is a newly developed caliber 324 with double apertures for the day/month and an analog date.

World Time watches are more important than ever in our globally networked lives. In 2000, Patek Philippe introduced its new World Time watch Ref. 5110, which indicates local time in all 24 of the world's time zones at a single glance. Its convenient readability and comfortable single-pusher mechanism for simultaneously advancing all time zones by one hour are protected by two patents granted in 1999.

26 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE

1940 saw the debut of the World Time Watch 1415 — a standout for its cloisonné dials — which today ranks among the most popular timepieces at auctions. The ingenious World Time mechanism was invented by the Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier in 1931 and later refined and patented by Patek Philippe. In the first generation of these watches, the disk of the cities was fixed.

The customer ordered the watch with his hometown as the reference city positioned at 12 o'clock.

WORLD TIME Ref.5930G. Combining a time display — in 24 different time zones — and a 30-minute flyback chronograph within the same watch, Patek Philippe has achieved this through their caliber CH 28-520 HU — an ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement that is a mere 3.88mm thick. The watch itself is only 12mm thick. To activate the world-timer, all you have to do is press the button at 10 o'clock to advance the time zone — which is indicated at 12 o'clock.

IN THE WORLD OF FINE SWISS WATCHES, ANY MECHANISM

Patek Philippe in creating complications that are so handy to

that tells more than just the time and date is called a complica-

have in everyday situations. Now don't get us wrong; the

tion. Every year, watch companies introduce models where they

company has created some of the most elaborate watches

pack more and more complications into one watch. It's the

ever produced, including the Sky Moon Tourbillon with 13

pinnacle of the watchmaker's art. But it's the extra functions like

amazing complications. But here we take a look back at

perpetual calendars, annual calendars, dual time zones and

some of their earlier horological accomplishments and how

world time displays that have set the foundation for modern

the new generation has evolved. You can see why Patek

watchmaking and continue to be the most useful.

Philippe is known for being at the forefront of high-complica-

And no company can match the expertise and tradition of

1996 After two years of prototypes, on-wrist tests and numerous quality and accuracy assessments. the first Ref. 5035 Annual Calendar made its debut at the Basel Watch and Jewelry Show in Geneva. A year later it was voted the Swiss Watch of the Year and the applause hasn't stopped yet. This was the first timepiece to bridge the gap between a simple calendar and the mechanically elaborate perpetual calendar, creating a new category in complications that are dependable, easy to operate and useful in everyday situations.

tion watches.

ANNUAL CALENDAR After 20 years, the patented annual calendar continues to be a success story and one of Patek Philippe's flagship models. Indicating the day of the week, the date and the month, and requiring correction only once a year, the Ref. 5905R offers a choice of different displays and nuances of style, combining elegant lines and attention to finish. It is also the pinnacle of precision, incorporating new shock-resistant, antimagnetic silcon-based technologies that have set totally new standards for reliability.

2009 The first Patek Philippe chronograph movement completely crafted in-house. It is hand wound and has a classic column wheel as well as a horizontal clutch.

The CH 29-535 PS caliber premiered with this Ladies First chronograph Ref. 7071 and is to replace all future models formerly equipped with the outsourced caliber CH 27-70 movement.

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CHRONOGRAPH Ref. 7150/250R-001 – Ladies’ Chronograph in rose gold with silvery opaline dial and gold applied Breguet numerals. 72 diamonds: ~0.78 ct. (bezel).

27 diamonds: ~0.21 ct. (prong buckle).

Total 99 diamonds: ~0.99 ct. Featuring a mechanical, manually wound movement.

Italian STYLE Playful, colorful and bold Pomellato’s jubilant designs are the motivation you need to get dressed up again.

NUDO NECKLACES, EARRINGS, BRACELET AND RINGS; ANKLET FROM THE NEW 2020 RITRATTO COLLECTION; ICONICA BRACELET; BRACELET FROM THE NEW 2020 ICONICA COLLECTION; POMELLATO EYEWEAR

ICONICA CHOCKER, PENDANT, EARRINGS AND RING; BRACELETS AND RINGS FROM THE NEW 2020 ICONICA COLLECTION

NUDO NECKLACES AND RINGS; RINGS, NECKLACES FROM THE NEW 2020 NUDO COLLECTION; ICONICA BRACELETS

GOLD NECKLACE AND EARRINGS; RINGS FROM THE NEW 2020 NUDO COLLECTION; ICONICA BRACELET

TANGO EARRINGS; ICONICA CHOKER, PENDANT, BRACELETS AND RINGS; RINGS FROM THE NEW 2020 NUVOLA COLLECTION

NUDO BRACELET AND RINGS; RINGS FROM THE NEW 2020 NUDO COLLECTION; BRACELETS FROM THE NEW 2020 ICONICA COLLECTION

CRAWLER AND RINGS FROM THE NEW 2020 BRERA COLLECTION. BRERA CHOKER.

Understanding

Watch Speak

The world of watches is complicated. In fact the word for all that goes on inside a watch to make it tick is “complications.” Complications are intricate mechanisms that enhance a watch movement, also known as a caliber. They provide information other than simply keeping time. To try and uncomplicate the complications, here's a quick guide to some commonly used terms illustrated from our Patek Philippe Collection:

GUILLOCHÉ The decorative art of guilloché is one of the traditional crafts of watchmaking. It consists of engraving a dial or case with intricate patterns, from sunbursts to geometric shapes. It adds eyecatching flair to a timepiece and depth to the dial.

Ref # 5230R-012

GRAND COMPLICATION

Grand complications include timepieces with the most complicated functions including minute repeaters, split-second chronographs and perpetual calendars. Ref # 5270J-001 (shown at right) also includes moon phases, leap year and day/night indication.

MOONPHASE

Ref # 5146G-010

In the 16th century the need for a moonphase watch dial arose for travelers. A full moon meant a lighter sky and safety when planning an overnight journey. The moonphase mechanism consists of a 30-toothed disc. The disc has two gold-colored moons opposite each other on the disc, surrounded by gold- colored stars on a blue background. As the days pass, the moon will appear from the left side of the window.

CHRONOGRAPH

Ref # 7150/250R-001

A chronograph, the most common complication, is a type of watch with a built-in stopwatch feature. A separate hand can be started, stopped and returned to zero to measure elapsed time to one-fifth, tenth or even hundredth of a second. A chronograph typically has two to three subdials and a return- to-zero button, or pusher, on the side of the case. The top pusher starts and stops the chronograph; the bottom pusher resets it.

POWER RESERVE

Ref # 5960/01G-001 (detail)

The first wristwatch with the power reserve mechanism was created by Breguet in 1933. However, this was only a prototype with only one watch assembled. Today certain models like the Flyback Chronograph (shown) have an extended power reserve of 45 hours. The power reserve indicator on the dial lets the wearer know how much energy the watch still has, like the gas gauge on your automobile.

PERPETUAL CALENDAR

A perpetual calendar displays the date, day, month, and year, automatically adjusting for leap year and the length of the month. It will only need adjusting for the rare years in which a leap year is due but doesn't take place, the next being the year 2100 and then 2400.

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Ref # 5327G-001

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Designer Spotlight Italy’s Giuseppe Picchiotti is the master of gemstones

Founded in 1967 by Giuseppe Picchiotti, the PICCHIOTTI brand has been hand-crafting luxury fine jewelry in the heart of Valenza, Italy for over 50 years.

Giuseppe Picchiotti, whose home base is Valenza Italy, runs the company with his wife, Matilde, and their three children, Maria, Filippo and Umberto.

MOST ARTISTS USE PAINT AS THEIR MEDIUM. Giuseppe Picchiotti creates his exquisite masterpieces from colorful gemstones and diamonds.

Known for mixing large stones with smaller calibrated diamonds, particularly square and baguette cuts, he recently introduced another innovation: expandable diamond rings and bangles, incorporating hidden technology that allow the pieces to slide on and off easily, stay on firmly and never lose their elasticity. The rings expand up to two sizes, so they'll slip over knuckles and fit different finger sizes — even if the wearer changes sizes over the years. Brilliant!

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The Xpandable Collection includes exquisite eternity rings, fashion rings and bracelets.

Style Staples

Aria Necklace

The five must-haves you can wear every day

WHETHER YOU WANT TO PUNCH UP A LITTLE BLACK DRESS OR ELEVATE A turtleneck or tee, there are certain go-to pieces that are as easy and effortless to slip on as a pair of jeans. “And with more people working from home and Zoom meetings on the rise, accessorizing is more important than ever,” says our owner, Jill Moretti, who picked these everyday-wearable trends from our Melissa Kaye collection.

Cristina Earring Large

Cris Earring

Aria Cascade Ring

Aria Jane Ring Aria Stiletto Earring

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Statement-making rings Rings, also in pumped-up sizes, have an air of effortless cool. It's the fastest way to elevate any outfit — no matter how casual. It's also fun to

Elegant hoops Hoops are always in fash-

wear a few together.

ion, and they go with just about everything.

What's new about them is that they're getting bigger and bolder for an extra measure of ca-

Lola Triple ring with diamonds

sual chic. And if you have multiple piercings, pile on a couple in different sizes or contrasting stones for a power look.

Cristina Earrings

Aria Y necklaces

A pendant necklace Look for shapes and designs that reflect your personality — something Aria Stiletto earring with diamonds

that will mix, match and layer with the other necklaces you own.

Diamond studs — with a twist Crisp, clean and timeless, diamond studs will pop on a video conference call, and they brighten the complexion.

The cool earring Earrings are the answer

You can't go wrong with a clas-

to anyone who wants to build versatility in her

sic diamond solitaire, but also

work-from-home wardrobe. And the cool

look for fresh, fun designs. If you

and sexy stiletto shape is an easy way to

have multiple piercings, mixing two or more cool shapes makes

change up your look.

Mila earring

for an engaging stack.

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