MAGAZINE
REACHING THE TOP
When minutes count, time management can be the most important factor in a successful mission
GAME CHANGERS The evolution of the Rolex tool watch
A LEAGUE OF ITS OWN Patek Philippe introduces the new Calatrava
I
t‘s an absolute pleasure to welcome you to
pendable watches — have dared to go, revealing
Moretti’s Fine Jewelry Magazine, which is a
discoveries that could have enormous impact on the
great way for us to share our considerable
health of our planet. If a look at what’s new in bridal
knowledge about fine jewelry and timepieces with
jewelry is more your style, turn to Page 36 for a peek
loyal customers like you.
at seven new trends.
While our favorite part of the business is getting to
And during the busy days ahead, as we enter the
know you when you stop by our store looking for that
most festive time of the year, we invite you to come
perfect engagement ring, birthday surprise or holiday
into our store and let our team of watch and gem-
gift, we also hope you enjoy flipping through these
stone experts find just the right gifts for everyone on
pages, which will take you to the history of the Rolex
your list. We wish you happy holidays and look for-
“Tool” watch, where you may be surprised by what
ward to seeing you.
passionate collectors prize most. You'll also travel to far-flung places like the top of Mt. Everest, where few people — and yet some super-de-
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With kind regards, Jill & Mike Moretti
THE MAGAZINE by MORETTI’S FINE JEWELRY
CONTENTS
VOL.3 NO. 1
FEATURES MAGAZINE
12
REACHING THE TOP
When minutes and logistics count, time management can be the most important factor in conquering the world's extremes.
REACHING THE TOP When minutes count, time management can be the most important factor in a successful mission
GAME CHANGERS The evolution of the Rolex tool watch
16
A LEAGUE OF ITS OWN Patek Philippe introduces the new Calatrava
GAME CHANGERS
ON OUR COVER
We explore the evolution of the “tool watch,” a category where Rolex is the undisputed star.
Moretti’s is San Antonio’s only authorized Patek Philippe Jeweler. Shown: 8 carat yellow diamond ring from the Moretti Collection.
COLUMNS
20
TIME AND AGAIN
24
At the Patek Philippe Museum we explore References with a storied past that have inspired today’s latest introductions.
28
IN A LEAGUE OF ITS OWN
The Patek Philippe Calatrava is one of history’s most influential watches.
ITALIAN STYLE
These playful, jubilant designs from Pomellato are motivation to get dressed up again.
40
The Picchiotti family
RING LEADERS
Seven engagement ring trends that sparkle with unique touches.
42
Rings from the Moretti and Picchiotti Collections
46
STYLE STAPLES Chic and easy jewelry that you can wear every day from Melissa Kaye.
44
LAYER UP
Looking for ways to keep your look fresh — start stacking!
.
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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
Picchiotti combines beauty & style with fit & comfort in the Xpandable™ Collection
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Above: The Patek Philippe Museum, Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7, 1205 Genève, Switzerland. Ref. P0884 from the museum collection. The new Ref. 7234G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 20 MO MROERTETTI T’ SI ’ SM A MGAAGZAI ZNIEN E
TIME and again At the Patek Philippe Museum we explore References with a storied past that have inspired today’s latest introductions
F
ew companies can claim the historic archive of
latest version of the Calatrava, Ref. 6119G, retains the distinctive
renown watches that Patek Philippe possesses, and
bezel but enlarges the case size to a more modern 39mm while
visitors to Geneva can see them on display at the
keeping the watch a slender 8.1 mm thin. The dial has been up-
Patek Philippe Museum in the city’s center. There are time-
dated as well; there are now sleek 18K gold “obus” hour markers
pieces more than 500 years old, as well as one of the first wrist-
with tapered,
watches, and also the remarkable Calibre 89, the watch with an
triangular
The Calibre 89 is on display at the Patek Philippe Museum
astounding 33
shaped
complications that
“dauphine”
made it the most
hands.
complicated
Perhaps the
watch ever when it
biggest differ-
was unveiled in
ence lies in-
1989. There are
side: a new
also the three
manually
watches here,
wound, high
originally designed
performance movement
in the 1920s and
(30-255 PS caliber) with twin barrels that
‘30s. They have in-
ensures a 65-hour power reserve. So you can wind your watch on a
spired new rendi-
Friday, and come Monday morning it’s still ready to go.
tions that pay
Above: Calatrava Ref. 96 from 1932, from the collection. At right: Calatrava Ref. 6119G
With the new Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, Patek
homage to the
Philippe rounds out its watch family that is inspired by the manu-
best of the past while updating the watch’s design and func-
facture’s aviator's watches from the 1930s. The very typical and
tions for today.
highly recognizable design was launched in 2015 and has already
Few watches are as iconic and admired as the Calatrava.
established itself as a modern classic. Patek Philippe has a long
The refined, elegant watch, a tribute to classic beauty, was intro-
and illustrious history with aviation. Perhaps none more so than the
duced in 1932, the same year the Stern family acquired Patek
timepieces that reflect input from the great aviator Charles Lind-
Philippe. There have been various interpretations of the watch
bergh. The first development in creating a timepiece for aviators
over the years, the most famous being Ref. 3919 with its white
was to take the watch out of their pocket and put it on their wrist.
dial, black lacquered Roman numerals, and its bezel decorated
The second, to create an hour-angle, or siderometer, wristwatch,
with guilloche in a hobnail pattern known as Clous de Paris. The
which determines the plane’s position based on a complicated
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Few companies can claim the historic archive of renown watches that Patek Philippe possesses
formula of angles and degrees with the time difference in Green-
cent of the harnesses that allowed pilots to keep their survival
wich, England where time 0 starts. Used together with a sextant
kits readily deployable in emergencies; Ref 7234R-01 has a
and radio signal, the watch helped allow simpler, faster and more
rose-gold buckle and vintage brown calfskin strap; Ref 7234G
precise positioning. Two particularly noteworthy exemplars of
sports a white gold buckle on a shiny navy blue calfskin strap.
such hour-angle – or siderometer – wristwatches were developed
Perpetual calendars are amongst the most complicated of any timepiece, requiring a movement composed of hundreds of parts arranged in layers, which is why these large complications were historically housed in the bigger dimensions of a pocket watch. In 1925, Patek Philippe changed all that when the company introduced its first perpetual calendar wristwatch. The watch presented the month, date and day in three separate windows. As a result, the case to accommodate it had to be rather thick. But once again, the experts at Patek Philippe went to work to come up with a technically-feasible, aesthetically attractive solution. For
Above: Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Time. At right from the museum: Ref. P0844A-100 and Ref. P1655A-200
the first time, Patek Philippe
by Patek Philippe and are now both on display at the Patek
features a
Philippe Museum.
Perpetual
The advent of GPS put an end to all that, but Patek Philippe
Calendar wrist-
pays homage to those glory days with the Calatrava Pilot
watch with a
Travel Time.
completely in-
It is a precise and dependable timekeeping instrument with a
Above: Patek Philippe No. P-72 from 1925. At right: Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P
line perpetual
time-zone function that is a boon for today’s travelers. It keeps
calendar display that had previously only existed in pocket
track of time in two zones, and is designed to be worn by women
watches that were originally created for the American market.
as well as men thanks to its medium-sized format (37.5mm.)
Ref. 5236P features a new self-winding movement (31-260 PS
A self-winding movement (324 S C FUS caliber) and skeleton
QL caliber) as well as the three patent pending applications
hands display home time while a solid hand indicates local time.
that were necessary for the innovations embedded in the
There’s also day/night indication for both the local and home
mechanism, all within the small, thin, wearable confines
time. Another nod to history is its clevis prong buckle, reminis-
of a wristwatch.
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Counterclockwise from top: Calatrava Pilot Time Ref. 7234G-001, Calatrava Ref. 6119R, Calatrava Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P 23 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
In a
LEAGUE of its own
The Patek Philippe Calatrava is one of the most influential watches in horological history
T
here are few watches as influential to Patek Philippe, and
de Paris design was added to the bezel and continues to prove popu-
to the entire world of horology, as the Calatrava. The first
lar. In 1982 a version (Ref. 3796) designed for women was intro-
Calatrava Ref. 96 was unveiled in 1932, the year the Stern
duced, which also continues to evolve. There are Calatravas in yellow
family took over what was then — hard to believe -- a struggling watch
gold, white gold, rose gold and platinum, with metal bracelets or calf-
brand, Patek Philippe. The success of the Ref. 96 helped catapult the
skin; Calatravas with moonphases, date complications, an invisible
company to the prominence it enjoys today. The watch’s very name
dustcover over the case, a bezel surrounded with diamonds. What
reveals its significance. It refers to the
remains true is the purity of the
Cross of Calatrava, an order of power-
aesthetic: the perfect circle.
ful knights from the Middle Ages. The
The latest models released this
cross bears four fleur-de-lys, which
year provide a case in point of the
Patek Philippe adopted for its emblem.
Calatrava’s continuing evolution.
Why was the Calatrava so revolution-
The biggest change in the new
ary? At the time it was unveiled, round
Reference 6119G is something that
wrist watches were, surprisingly, not in
can’t be seen but definitely affects
favor. The Calatrava, with its spare, re-
its function. The watch contains a
fined round case, changed all that. The
new movement that provides a 65-
watch was admired for its elegant sim-
hour time reserve. Ref. 6119G, 2021, detail
plicity. It was designed along the princi-
The newest Calatrava Pilot Travel
ples of the Bauhaus movement, which rests on the necessity of form
Time pays homage to the glory days of aviation when watches
following function, so beauty and practicality are supreme.
were an essential aid in flying a plane by helping to precisely deter-
The function of the Calatrava: to tell the time. A simple white dial
mine its position. Reference 7234R-001 (with its rose gold buckle
with minimally designed hands and markers did the job, beautifully.
and vintage brown calfskin strap) and Reference 7234G (with its
The Sterns relaunched Patek Philippe with the Ref. 96, and the watch
white gold buckle and navy calfskin strap) have day /night indica-
world took notice. Today, round watch cases are more the norm than
tors to keep the time in two different time zones, so today’s mod-
the exception, and the Calatrava continues as an important part of
ern travelers can know the time back home and the time of
Patek Philippe, past and present.
wherever they’ve journeyed to, while the watch retains its elo-
Over the years the Calatrava has evolved to meet the times, and there have been dozens of variations. The original was 31 mm; the
quent simplicity. It’s yet another example of form following function that has made
latest versions clock in larger to appeal to a contemporary clientele
the Calatrava and all its variations one of the most important and
that prefers a bigger dial. In the 1980s a decorative hobnail, or clous
influential timepieces ever made.
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Shades of moonstones and brown diamonds shine with the cacao-colored inspirations of Nudo Chocolate.
Italian Style
Nudo earrings, necklace and rings by Pomellato
The understated glamour of the Catene design allows it to be worn all day long for every and all occasions.
Catene earrings, rings and bracelet, Nudo rings by Pomellato
Soft color is rendered precious with diamonds in the new Nudo bangle designs along with matching earrings and rings.
Nudo earrings, rings and bracelets by Pomellato
Nudo’s mediterranean inspired hues along with a bold Iconica bracelet, are the ultimate in casual chic.
Nudo earrings and rings, Iconica bracelet by Pomellato
Bold lines and graceful designs.
Fantina earrings, Iconica rings by Pomellato
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The golden touch of Iconica jewels.
Iconica earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings by Pomellato
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The Catene Collection is the very quintessence of Milanese craftmanship inspired by the perfect symmetry of a chain.
Catene earrings, rings and bracelets by Pomellato
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color stone Turn up your style with these elegant creations of emeralds, sapphires and diamonds
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pearls Playful, sexy and fun, this timeless accessory is always in style
If you think pearls are reserved for your grandma’s jewelry box, this season’s take is sure to change your mind. Everyone, from music superstars like Harry Styles to Youth Poet Laureate Amanda Gorman, is reviving the retro pearl jewelry trend. Whether you decide to incorporate pearls by way of classic and elegant drop earrings or take a nouveau approach with a wraparound necklace that drips down your décolleté, these pieces are ones to incorporate into your wardrobe for an air of preppy sophistication.
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diamonds Don’t save diamonds for a special occasion. Here are the key outfit making pieces you’ll wear with everything!.
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You don’t have to wait for a night on the town to add a little sparkle to your go-to wardrobe pieces. Diamonds can take your basics up a notch, says Genevieve Yraola, a fashion contributor and stylist for numerous magazines including People Style Watch. Here are some essential pieces shown here which you can wear every day to any occasion and feel just right.
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RING LEADERS
7 engagement ring trends that sparkle with unique touches This coming engagement season prepare to see something different. As more brides seek to express their individuality, you’re going to see many more unique touches, says Severina Ferrari, founder of Engagement 101, who curated these looks for us. Even if you're work ing with a stone passed down in your family, you'll find plenty of ideas here for giving it your own special look.
1
YELLOW GOLD is making a major return
3
A HALO is still a great way to make any stone appear larger.
2
THE CLASSIC SOLITAIRE, which took a backseat to the halo for a few years, is on top again.
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4
THE OVAL CUT is unique, contemporary and right now the trendiest cut of all.
5
FANCY SHAPED CENTER STONES — radiant, pear, emerald — continue to rise in popularity.
6
STACKING BANDS are still going strong.
7
COLORED GEMSTONES and YELLOW DIAMONDS are on the rise for brides wanting to break tradition.
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Designer Spotlight Picchiotti combines beauty & style with fit & comfort in the Xpandable™ Collection
Founded 54 years ago, PICCHIOTTI is today the preeminent and most respected name in the world of Italian fine jewelry. To reach that pinnacle requires innovation, merging exciting design with new technology, precision, and old-world craftsmanship. This meticulous combination of know-how and modern science have been instrumental in the creation of the popular and revolutionary XPANDABLE™ COLLECTION. The XPANDABLE™ designs incorporate innovative technology that, ingeniously and invisibly, solves a myriad of fit and comfort challenges, allowing rings and bracelets to expand and contract with ease for comfortable, durable wear. A vast array of bands, rings and bangles smoothly fits all fingers and wrists, thanks to a groundbreaking hidden spring mechanism. The collection has been manufactured with the utmost care and the highest standards of perfection for durability to give the wearer many years of enjoyment. The success of the PICCHIOTTI Xpandable™ rings and bracelets has been nothing short of remarkable since its introduction in early 2016. “I consider it a proprietary triumph of high jewelry design and technology. It really is revolutionary!” says Giuseppe Picchiotti, founder and president of the Italian-based company. “We started out with about 10-12 designs. Today we have more than 250 with the main PICCHIOTTI style signatures characterizing the vast assortment. From the extensive use of baguette-cut stones to precious center gemstones that make each ring an exclusive one-of-a-kind, to stackable and colorful fashion-forward creations, the Xpandable™ rings and bracelets have been embraced all over the world… not only by women who have fit and comfort challenges, but also by women who appreciate freedom from bracelet clasps and poorly fitting rings,” Picchiotti continues. At PICCHIOTTI, old-world craftsmanship and modern technology set new standards of elegance, beauty and innovation, creating heirloom jewels that fit for generations.
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LAYER UP Looking for ways to keep your look fresh? Start stacking!
The layering craze, which made its grand entrance a few seasons ago, shows no sign of slowing down. It's a great way to make a statement with your jewelry and change up your look. But if you're new to the technique or if you struggle with mixing, matching and stacking, fear not. Here the designer Melissa Kaye shows us exactly how to do it using some of her favorite pieces.
Layering necklaces=easy chic Wearing multiple necklaces creates that easy-chic vibe that can elevate any outfit. Start with mixing and matching necklaces in varied styles, that way, each individual piece stands out. Just be sure to keep the one closest to your neck simple, so it doesn't overwhelm you.
Bracelets=endless styling possibilities Bracelets are easy to stack, easy to collect and easy to master because you aren't playing around with different lengths. For visual harmony and comfort, try to keep the weight of each bracelet consistent. And for maximum punch, pile on a few or arm each wrist with a different look —a bold cuff or stack on one and a more delicate bangle or two on the other. Keeping bracelets in the same metal unifies the look.
Mix-and-match rings= a one-of-a-kind look Stacking rings come in all manner of shapes, sizes and designs — and that's what's great about them. One alone makes a pretty accent, but worn together they have maximum impact. And it's fun to grow a collection.
Jewelry shown: From our Melissa Kaye Collection
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lariats
From our Pomellato Collection
Look for a resurgence of lariat necklaces because they're a style that hasn't been in the spotlight lately. But lo and behold, 2021 is the year lariats are getting a chic upgrade. Instead of the dainty chains of the past, these feature bold chains for a wholly fresh take.
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Style Staples Jewelry you can wear every day from Melissa Kaye Whether you want to punch up a little black dress or elevate a turtleneck or tee, there are certain goto pieces that are as easy and effortless to slip on as a pair of jeans. “And with more people working from home and Zoom meetings on the rise, accessorizing is more important than ever,” says our owner, Jill Moretti, who picked these Melissa Kaye
everyday-wearable trends from our Melissa Kaye collection.
Stackable cuffs Crisp, clean and timeless, these are the season’s must have accessories. In 18K gold with diamonds and elegant enamel, a great way to complement any look. A pendant necklace A 18K gold and diamond Aria necklace is a classic — and it’s chic and sparkling with a modern edge. Statement-making rings 18K gold rings, also in pumped-up sizes, have an air of effortless cool. It's the fastest way to elevate any outfit — no matter how casual. It's also fun to wear a few together. 46
Zea Linked Bracelet
Lola Cuff
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Aria Cascade Necklace
“
One of my favorite style staples is
the Aria Necklace. Not only is the long, slender shape neck-flattering and sexy, you'll find it very versatile. These necklaces won't look out of place during the day and are equally appropriate if you're going to a more formal event."
Aria Cascade Ring
“
I love the way the cocktail ring has
transitioned to something you can wear every day. While it should be big and catch the eye, it should also feel like an extension of your hand and not a clunky piece weighing you down. It's also fun to wear a bunch together."
Lola Tripple Ring
Aria V Ring
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