"
54
STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING.
[Fifth Edition.
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK. Plate
21.
THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE ARE AS FOLLOWS :
17
)
36 breast,
,|
1
[lengths,
I
|32^^ist.'
18^
SELECT
Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows
Square
B
Scale to
to
D
is
C
to
fashionable waist
O
OV
lines
O
;
is
and
OD O
to
D
end of Scale to
A
C
and
D
is
C
to
W; square down from W C to E is end F to S is end of Scale to S square down ;
;
A O
end of Scale to
O
;
AB
Square out from
;
to
;
end of Scale
K
G
K
is
and
V
to
is
f inch
of Scale to
from S
;
to
;
B
;
E
A
to
W
C
to
F
;
From
K
to
to
V
end of Scale to
L
is
end of Scale to
is
is
end of
is
O
natural waist and
F
^ breast or 2\
is
inches.
Place angle of Square at
Where
H
the line
H crosses
E
E
with one arm touching B, and mark up to H.
the top line, locate the shoulder.
H
is
the width of top of back from shoulder point
to I
is
|-
line
breast
Draw
;
;
Square up from
F and E
;
sideseam through
L
L
;
to
M
is
is
H
a line from to S * on Scale from top
;
more or
through
less,
above
W and
carrying
If inch
Shape sideseam of sidebody, reducing \ inch it
E
a line from shoulder point through Star
Shajie back as repi'esented, raising f inch,
ing
Draw
;
Star on line
at top, \ inch at blade
and carry-
M
to 1 by the back and sweep from 1 by one inch back of shoulder point Shape under-arm cut, taking out at waist | inch
Get length
Draw Apply
U to junction of Sweep and line squared down from N and add 2\ inches from N to P.
a line from
S
as to
R
waist measure to
Shape shoulder
as represented,
reducing \ inch at droop.
Get
width
of
shoulder by the back and shape soye.
Shape gorge, raising | inch above I Shape front from Y through S and
;
P
From shoulder as represented
point to
T
is
I breast
;
Shape bottom rounding up \ inch from R Fjom Y to seam edge of lapel is If inch as marked Shape seam edge of lapel as represented. ;
Make lapel 2 inches wide at top, 2| at breast and 2 at bottom for present These proportions can of course be increased or diminished as desired. The button
line is 2 inches
For present
styles the holes are spaced so that the
styles.
back from S and 1^ inch back of seam at the waist.
inch farther apart than the others.
two upper ones
This comjjletes the Draft.
A
will be 1^