[19] How
to
Re -Shape the Upper Part of Front Arm -Curve.
—
9. Place the lower part of the Arm-Curve of the Guide same part of Arm-Curve on the Goods, at the same time to the having the top of Arm-Curve resting at the end of the Shoulderthen draw a line from the end of line^ (as indicated by figure 7) Shoulder-line to the loioer Breast-dot, as shown by Diagram 5.
Rule
;
Explanation.
— The
Arm
Curve, below the lower Breast-dot,
should not be changed.
How to Find the
Proper Height of Darts at Front.
—
Rule 10. Lay the Dart Rule (across the outline of the Front Waist already drafted on the goods) in the same position as shown by Diagram 5 viz., with the wide end of the Rule placed close to and parallel with the Hem-line, and the upper edge (near the point) placed directly underneath the lower part of Arm-Curve. Now, while in this position, make dots through the perforations marked :
*'
and 2d Darts
1st
for Ladies," (printed near the
under edge of the
Dart-Rule).
Rule
To Measure Dart -Space
at the
— Measure
Waist-line
Bottom of Waist.
from the Dart by placing Hem-line, and make a dot. Now the pointed end of Dart-Rule close to the dot made on the Goods for the top of the First Dart, at the same time having the Side of Dart-Rule close to the l|-inch dot previously made on the Waist-line then draw a line down each side from the Point to the Waist-line. 11.
on
the
11^
inches
shape the First
The Second Dart
is
shaped in the same manner, leaving half-an-
inch space between each Dart on the Waist-line.
To Draft the Center Line of
Rule
12.
—Make
a dot on the Waist-line in the center of each
Dart then draw a straight in Diagram 6 ;
Explanation.
down
Darts.
—This
line
from
this
dot to the Point, as shown
line is designed as a guide in basting the
Goods
the center of the Dart before sewing the sides together.