Kenmore 385 17622 sewing machine user manual

OWNER'S MANUAL

SEWING MODEL

MACHINE 385.

17622

SEARS, ROEBUCK

AND CO.

Dear Customer:

You

have just

invested

in a very

please pause for a moment and care for your

Specific

fine

machine.

read this booklet

Before

which

using your

contains

new Kenmore

instructions

on how

machine, to operate

machine.

instructions

are given

obtain

the best sewing

Advice

on the

results

operation

on threading, and avoid

if you

have questions

the model

and serial number

tension

adjustments,

unnecessary

and care of your

Please remember, number

zigzag sewing

and carefully

machine

about

when

cleaning,

service expense

is always

your

available

machine

oiling,

etc. This will

for conditions

at your

or need parts

beyond

help you

our control.

nearest Sears Retail and service,

Store.

always mention

you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine Z "

Record

in space

number

of

are located

this

provided appliance.

below

the

The model

on the nomenclature

model number

number

and

and serial

plate,

as identified

Serial

No.

serial

number

on Page 4 of

this booklet.

Model

No. 385.

Retain

these numbers

THIS

MODEL

for future

IS A CENTER

reference.

NEEDLE,

LOW BAR

SEWING

MACHINE.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Your

sewing

machine

Read all instruction

is designed before

and constructed

using this sewing

4.

Never

only for HOUSEHOLD

use.

5.

Never

6.

Do not

7.

Do

not

oxygen reduce the risk of electric

1.

An appliance unplug

this

and before 2.

should

the

electric

outlet

plugged

immediately

3.

Do not reach immediately.

4.

Do not place

1.

Do not

before

for

relamping.

the

Replace

appliance

that

bulb

with

has fallen

or store

appliance

where

Do not place

in or drop

into water

allow

Use this

to

be used as a toy.

Never working

center

9.

using

same type

into

it can fall

water.

or be pulled

or other

rated

Close attention

air

opening

and foot

blocked.

controller

Keep free from

dust, and loose cloth. any object

into any opening.

use outdoors. operate

where

aerosol

(spray)

products

are being used or where

is being administered. turn

all controls

to the

off

('0")

position,

then

appliance

only

operate

this

properly, Return

for

its intended

recommended

appliance

if it has a damaged

if it has been the appliance

for examination,

repair,

use as described

by the manufacturer

dropped

to the

nearest

electrical

cord

or damaged, authorized

or mechanical

in this manual. as contained

or plug,

if it is not

or dropped dealer

in

into

or service

adjustment.

remove

outlet. unplug

fingers

by pulling

away

the sewing

on cord.

from

all

machine

To unplug,

moving

parts.

grasp the plug, not

Special

care

the

is required

needle,

Always use the needle to break.

proper

12.

Do not use bent

needles.

13.

Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.

It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14.

Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15.

Always

fire, electric shock,

when this

any

11,

liquid.

is necessary

Keep around

Unplug

into a tub

of lint,

To disconnect,

Do not cord.

with

of the sewing machine

needle

unplug the sewing

plate.

The wrong

plate

can cause the

machine from the electrical outlet when

removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

is used by or near children.

Use only attachments this manual.

water.

after

to persons.

appliance 2.

Always

10.

WAR N IN G- To reduce the risk of burns, orinjury

in.

cleaning.

Always unplug 15 Watts.

or sink.

from

when

appliance

drop or insert

plug from

never be left unattended

appliance

8.

shock;

the

openings

accumulation

machine.

DA N G ER- To

operate

ventilation

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

TABLE •OF CONTENTS SECTION

1.

KNOW THE MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available ..............

Locate and Identify the Parts ..................

Identify the Accessories ........................

SECTION

2.

PREPARE THE MACHINE

3 3_4 4

FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine .........................

5_7 • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power .......

5 • Foot Control Use ..........................

5 • Setting Spool Pins ..........................

6 • Adjust the PresserFoot Lever ..................

6 • Thread Cutter ............................

6 • Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table , , . 7 • Accessories Storage Box ......................

7 • Change the Presser Foot ......................

7 Choose the Needle and Thread .................

7_8 • To Change the Needle .......................

7 • Check the Needle ..........................

B • Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ......

8 Prepare the Bobbin ........................

9_10 • To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ......

9 • Windthe Bobbin .......................

9_10 • Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ...........

10 Prepare the Top Thread .....................

11_12 • Thread the Needle ........................

11 • Pick Upthe Bobbin Thread ..................

12 Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................

13_14 Reverse Stitch Control ........................

14 Stitch Selector .............................

15 Stitch Length Control ........................

16 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance .................

16 Starting To Sew ............................

17 SECTION

3.

Zigzag Stitches ...........................

• Basic Zigzag .............................

• Satin Stitch .............................

• Applique ...............................

• Bar Tacking .............................

• Sew a Button ............................

• Overcasting Stitch .........................

• Three-Step Zigzag .........................

• Blind Hemming ..........................

• LaceWork ..............................

• Shell Stitching ...........................

• Box Stitching ............................

• Fagoting Stitch ..........................

• Decorate with Geometic Patterns ...............

Stretch Stitches ..........................

• Straight Stretch ..........................

• Rick-Rack Stretch ........................

• Smocking ..............................

• Overcast Stretch Stitching ...................

• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............

• Elastic Stretch Stitch .......................

• Herring Bone Stretch .......................

• Decorative Stretch Patterns ..................

Buttonbholes ............................

SECTION

SECTION

Turna Square Corner ......................

Topstitching ............................

Left Needle Position .......................

1B 19 lg

• • •

Sew in a Zipper ........................

Use the Darning Plate ......................

Darning ...............................

20_21 22 22

"!

PROBLEMS CHART

5.

, • ........

38_39

CARE FOR THE MACHINE Replacing the Light Bulb ......................

Cleaning the Machine ......................

• Clean the Feed Dogs .......................

• Cleanthe Shuttle Race .....................

Oiling the Machine ..........................

• Oil behing the Face Cover Plate and Under Arm Cover Plate ..........................

• Oil the Underside .........................

18_22 18 18

• • •

PERFORMANCE

What to Do When ...............

LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stitches ..........................

• . Straight Stitch ...........................

• Usethe Seam Guides .......................

4.

23_31 23 23 24 24 25 : 26 27 28 29 29 30 31 31 32_35 32 32 33 33 34 34 35 35 36_37

40 40_41 40 41 42 42 42

PARTS LIST ........................................

43

INDEX

44

............................................

SECTION A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available A

full

nearest

line

of

Sears

sewing retail

cabinets store

or

is available through

1.

KNOW THE MACHINE

Locate and Identify the Parts at

our

your

general

catalog.

Another your

option Kenmore

. . . buy goes

a Carrying

anywhere,

can

.where.

Case be

Take-up

Lever

Bobbin

Winding

stored

any-

Thread

Selector

Top

%

Upper

Thread

Guide

Spool

Pins

. , . then

Thread

Tension

Tension

Disc

Release Bobbin

\

Winding

Spindle

Length

Control

Stitch

Control

Stitch

Selector

Control Stitch

Face Cover

Plate

Thread

Cutter

Needle

Plate

Reverse

Shuttle

Extension (Accessory

Table storage

box)

Cover

i,

SECTION

1.

KNOW THE MACHINE Identify

Arm

Cover Plate

Carrying

the Accessories

Handle

nhole

Hand Wheel

opener

Bobbin Presser Auto

Clutch

Foot

Lever

Knob

_

Large screw driver

Light and Power Switch

Free Arm

Sliding buttonhole Darning

Plug Connector _Nomenclature

foot

plate

Plate

Zipperfoot

Lint brush Foot

Control Straight stitch foot

all screw driver Needle

Clamp

Screw Satin foot

Presser Foot

stitch

SECTION

2.

PREPARE THE MACHINE

FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power

•

Foot Control

Use

light

Foot

Plug connector

4.

Push the light on the power

and power and sewing

switch

to turn

light.

To

FEATURE:

Before

inserting

machine,

be

the

sure

plug

the

into

power

Your

your

switch

is

OFF.

1.

Check Volt

2.

Insert plug

your

outlet

to

be sure it is a 110 to 120

machine

connector,

ptug

as shown.

into

the

It will

three-prong only

fit one

way.

3,

Insert the power

supply

plug into the outlet.

"For

will

switch

interrupted

or

light/power children,

switch

OPERATING

AC outlet. the

machine

light/power

control

you

not

operate

is turned

stop

sewing, to

unless

the

If you

are

on. turn

prevent

off

the

injury

to

regulates

the

speed

at

saw,

increase

speed,

the ball of your

J

NOTE:

foot

which

Machine plug

SAFETY

The

control

To decrease

gently

press down

with

foot.

speed,

release

your

foot

pres-

sure slightly.

NOTE:

INSTRUCTIONS

appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other).

To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a

polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way."

The foot control is sensitive and wilt increase'or decrease your sewing speed immediately.

Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to your taste and needs.

"Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models 385.1148xxx, 385.1158xxx, 385.1168xxx, 385.1258xxx, 385.1268xxx, 385.12612 x x x, 385.1278x x x, 385.11607x x x, 385.12710× x x, 385.12TI4x x x, 385.12712xxx, 385.17622xxx, 385.11608xxx, 385.12814xxx and 385.12014xx×. x xx - represents numbers 000 through 999."

(For U.S.A. market only) 100-316-005

5

SECTION

• f

2.

PREPARE

THE MACHINE

•

Setting Spool Pins

Spool

FOR SEWING

Adjust

•

the Presser Foot Lever

Thread

Cutter

t

"

Normal position

up positior

High position

ip position Presser foo'_ lever

J

The spool pins are used for holding the spool of thread in order to feed thread to the machine.

To use, pull for storage.

The

Presser

Foot

Lever

the

spool

pins.

Push down

and

lowers

your

up position to

help

foot.

you

You thread

presser foot.

You can raise it about

up

raises

1/4"

for easy removal place

heavy

higher

than the normal

of the presser foot

fabrics

under

or

the presser

don't

need a pair

after

handy thread Pull before

the

you finish

cut the

sewing.

Just

use the

several

inches

cutter.

threads

starting

of scissors to

to

lengthen

the next seam.

SECTION Set Up the Machine •

2.

(Continued)

PREPARE THE MACHINE

FOR SEWING

Choose the Needle and Thread

Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table

•

Accessory

Storage Box

Change the PresserFoot

• To Changethe Needle

!

Needle clamp screw %

Flat side away fror£1

J

To Remove

the Extension

(for free-arm 1.

Grip

The

sewing)

the

table

and thumb, 2.

you

Table

Pull gently table will

with

your

index

finger

as shown. to the

The extension

the

accessory storage

box lifts

open toward

Sewing

accessories

ently

left,

lid of

located

you. are

in the box.

Use the correct the stitch

the Extension

To

change

feet,

(for flat-bed 1.

screw,

sewing)

Insert

the

tab

the

pin

into

their

catches.

2.

With gently

your

thumb

snap in.

and

index

finger,

Tighten

various presser

position

NOTE:

by

the

the presser

1.

Loosen

foot thumb

2.

foot,

the bottom. screw

using

large

screw

driver

to

certain

the foot

the make

to

the

its

highest

hand

wheel

you. needle

it toward

Remove

bar

the

clamp

screw

by

you.

needle

by pulling

it down-

ward.

3.

the

needle by turning

the

turning

the proper

the

toward

bar to its lifting

Raise position

presser

lever.

choose

insert from and

the

raise the

Loosen

Table

)

you wish to sew.

presser foot To Attach

for

conveni-

highest

snap out.

presser foot

Insert

the

new

clamp

with

the flat

needle

into

the

needle

side away from

you.

4.

Push the needle up as far as it will go.

5.

Tighten

is secure. with

the the

accessory

needle large

box.

clamp

screwdriver

screw from

firmly the

r z¸

,/•

SECTION

2.

PREPARE THE MACHINE

i¸

FOR SEWING

•

Fabric,

Needle,

Thread

FABRIC

Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy j Your

choice

of

needle

and

thread

depends

on

the

fabric

you

are

sewing.

In the

needle

envelope,

you

will

find

the

following

color-coded

needles: Blue

(11 )

Orange Red

for

stretch

(11 ) ........

.........

for

lightweight

..........

for

medium

(14)

weight Purple

(16)

........

for

fabrics. or

medium-heavy

fabrics.

and decorative

hole

weight

Length NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR

11-ORANGE

Medium Weight: CQtton, Cotton Blend, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knit, Suiting, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

14-RED

Medium Heaw Weight: Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvet, Leather

14-RED or 16-PURPLE

Chart

THREAD

RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING

SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Co,on Silk A

2 (12 stitches inch)

50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A

2-2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch)

per

for

needle thicker

50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A

2--3 {8-10 stitches per inch)

Heavy Duty Cotton

3

fabrics

topstitching

(This

thread

Stitch

fabrics.

medium-heavy

fabrics.

and

on these has

a larger

topstitching

Heavy Weight: Coating, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas

18-GREEN

Polyester Wrap Silk A

Mercerized

Core/Cotton

(8 stitches inch)

per

thread.)

I Green

(18)

........

for

heavy

decorative

weight

fabrics

and

top-stitching

on

these

at your

nearest

Sears

fabrics.

Replacement

Kenmore

needles

are

Stretch available

store.

•

Check the Needle

1.

Look for barbed

2.

A damaged needle can cause permanent knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.

Always

buy a good

be strong, 8

smooth

or blunt

quality

point.

thread.

and consistent

Decorative top-stitching on all types of fabric

It should in thickness.

snags or

resist tangling

runs

and

in

Fabric:

Polyester Double Knit, Nylon Tricot. Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex, Cire Tricot

16-PURPLE 18-GREEN

Buttonhole Twist (Use as top thread only)

3--4 (6-8 stitches per inch)

11-BLUE {STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE)

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton

2-2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch)

SECTION

2.

PREPARE THE MACHINE

FOR SEWING

Prepare the Bobbin •

•

To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine

Wind the Bobbin

Release

J

Remove

the

the

machine

left.

Open

pulling

down

extension by the

table

pulling shuttle

the embossed

it

from to

the

cover

by

part on

the left side of the cover.

Raise needle by rotating

i•!

to its highest

position

hand wheel toward

you.

To

remove

tle, pull Pull

bobbin

shuttle.

bobbin

open

case from

shut-

latch of bobbin

case.

case

straight

out

of

clutch

turning

the

inside the hand

by

wheel

clutch

knob

toward

you to stop the needle from

moving bobbin.

while

you

wind

the

SECTION

•

2.

PREPARE THE MACHINE

FOR SEWING

Wind the Bobbin (Continued)

f

)

Draw thread from spool through bobbin winding tension disc as shown,

Pull

end

bobbin

of

thread

through

hole

in

as shown.

Place

bobbin

spindle

with

from

the

bobbTn until

•

onto end

top

of

winding

it clicks.

thread,

start

slightly

filled,

bobbin of

thread

winding

Wind

thread until

coming

Push

bobbin

the

bobbin.

Push

spindle

to

right

Turn

clutch

knob

away

while

holding

hand

wheel

Holding machine.

the

onto

end

of

When bobbin

is

and clip

thread.

spindle

left

Remove

to

the

bobbin.

from for

you

normal

sewing operation.

snip off end of thread.

Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

J

,J

Place

bobbin

in

bobbin

case

making sure thread feeds clockwise and is coming from bobbin

10

winder stops.

winding

as shown.

Pull thread as shown.

through

slot of case

Pull

thread

under

tension

spring and through the opening as shown above. Pull 3 to 4 inches

of thread

from

bobbin.

Holding case latch.

into

latch

open,

shuttle

and

position release

Case

should

when

latch

lock

into

is released.

place

SECTION Prepare •

2.

PREPARE THE MACHINE

FOR SEWING

the Top Thread

Thread the Needle

J Raise take-up

lever to its highest

Raise presser foot Place spool

The numbered on the Dotted loops

steps above follow

the numbers

illustrations. lines and then

show

places

is pulled

tight.

where

the

position

by turning

hand wheel toward

you.

lever.

on spool

pin as shown,

1.

Draw thread

into

thread

2.

While

holding

check

spring holder.

3.

Firmly

draw thread

4.

Draw thread

5.

Thread

thread

down

with

thread

coming

from

the back of the spool.

guide using both hands. near spool,

up and through and slip it into

draw

thread

down

into

the

lever from

right

to left.

left side needle bar thread

guide.

take-up

tension

area and then

around

the

thread

NOTE:

You

needle from may want

front

to back.

to cut the end of thread

with

sharp scissors for easier needle threading.

11

SECTION

2.

PREPARE THE MACHINE

FOR SEWING

Pick Up the Bobbin Thread

!

1.

Raise

presser foot

thread

loosely

handwheel

lever.

Hold

top

2.

you

bobbin

thread

up

pick

up bobbin

1.

Is needle threaded

2.

Is thread

3.

Are 3 to 4 inches of thread

4.

Is thread

5.

Is bobbin

6.

Is the machine

12

tangled

from

from

thread front

around

shuttle

properly

steps given above, then

to back?

needle? from

the shuttle?

tanglecl?

installed

threaded

by following

coming

in the bobbin

according

pulling

3.

Pull

both of

threads

case?

to the instructions?

check:

under

"the presser

to 6 inches

one complete

turn.

If you cannot

by

back

top thread.

in left hand and rotate

toward

Bring

of thread

foot, clear.

and to leaving

the 4

SECTION

2.

PREPARE THE MACHINE

FOR SEWING

Adjust the Top Thread Tension Choose Top

side

of fabric

the Correct

Tension:

The best tension will Setting

mark

---

(

thread

depend

on;

the stiffness

and thickness

the number

of fabric

the type

of the fabric

layers

of stitch

The top thread is too loose.

The top thread is too tight

Tighten thread Top side of fabric

For Straight The

ideal

fabric, If you

Top side of fabric

Stitch straight

as shown look

stitch

will

have threads

above, magnified

at the

gaps, that each stitch

stitch,

front

is smooth

locked

between

the two

layers

of

The top thread appears on the underside of the fabric.

to show detail. and back,

you will

notice

that

there

are no

The bobbin thread appears on the upper surface of the fabric.

and even.

When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top thread.

Tension

is too

loose:

The top thread shows through bottom of the fabric. The bottom of the stitch

will

feel bumpy.

Tension the side

The the

is too tight:

bobbin top

the stitch

thread

will

of the fabric.

come The top

through side of

wilt feel bumpy.

13

SECTION

2.

PREPARE

THE MACHINE

FOR SEWING Reverse Stitch Control

For Zigzag Stitch In a correct of

fabric

below for tension.

Top Too

zigzag

and

the

stitch, top

the correct

the

bobbin

threads

will

appearance.

tension

Top

not show on the top side on the

bottom

this appearance,

adjust

side. the

See top

tension

Too

Top

will

slightly

To match

Tight

Top side of Fabric

threads

show

Loose

Just Right

side of Fabric

Top side of Fabric

To reverse stitch, hold down this control during sewing.

Release to sew forward again.

Bottom

side of Fabric

Bottom

Too Tight: --

14

Corner of each zigzag will pull together on the top side of fabrics.

.

side of Fabric

Bottom

side of Fabric

Too

Loose:

Just Right:

--

The top thread will loop through bottom side of fabric and will be pulled almost together.

Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side.

Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing conditions.

SECTION

2.

PREPARE THE MACHINE

FOR SEWING

Stitch Selector

Jr. .....

I

I

stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend length control.

Selector Release

setting zones at the stitch

ZONES Setting mark (_)_etting

mark @_

/"

"'_tito. Selector

=.

=

•

Red

•

Green

.........

•

Blue .........

Built-in

Buttonhole

•

Brown

Stretch

Stitches

........

.......

Straight,

Zigzag and Utility

Geometric

Decorative

Stitches

Stitches Making

=

= \=

lt%.o_Pattern

1) 2)

Selector Dial

Raise the needle to its highest position.

Select the desired pattern at the setting mark(_)by turning the pattern selector dia!. Dial will not turn past "SELECT" right,

When you select patterns a)

First,

slide the

on the selector b)

Then, selector

c)

Slide selector

Note:

Do

select

A to I

selector

release

to the right

release meets the setting

the

without moving selector release to the

desired

pattern

selector'

release

so that

mark@on

at the setting

the "SELECT

A to

!" mark

the machine. mark

I by turning

the pattern

dial. back

the

release meets the setting not

position.

turn

the

pattern

to the

left

mark(_)on

selector

dial

so that

the

"SEW"

mark

on the

the machine. while

the

needle

is in the

lower

It may cause the needle to'break.

15

SECTION

2.

PREPARE

THE MACHINE

FOR SEWING

Stitch Length Control

Adjusting Stretch Stitch

0

//

Stitch

!

Length

\

1,, /

=H !)t'

o--1-1-3-,-_

3

Balance

4

,./-Setting

I I I I

/

titch

/

Length

\ o--i--=-,,;--+--, ---I

t

,,

lJ

mark

Yn

+_

= i] 1

\ • i

,,¢/

Stitch ._ "'.._.._

Control etting mark

The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stretch stitch setting.

The higher the number, "0" means no feed.

the longer

the stitch.

To select Stretch Stitches, set this control at • position.

NOTE: When you select decorative stitches (green) or built-in buttonhole (blue), make sure that you do not set the stitch length control at • position.

Study the red, green, brown and blue section around this control. These are recommended zones of stitch length and are colorcoded to the stitches pictured on the stitch indicator panel.

To select Stretch position.

Stitches,

set this control at •

be in the detent position between S and L (Vposition) for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric used, you may need to adjust this control to match forward stitches of stretch sewing with reversemotion stitches.

To shorten stretch stitches, turn the control slightly toward "S". To lengthen, turn toward "L"+

L

-

•

•

Smock ing stretch

Rickrack

16

stretch

S

SECTION2.

StartingTo Now

that

Kenmore 1.

Sew

you

are familiar

sewing

Inspect afraid

PREPARETHE MACHINEFORSEWING

the

with

machine. needle.

to change

the controls

Below It should

your

on your

are some good be straight,

needle frequently.

machine

habits properly

Many

and with

to follow

each time

set and sharp

of the new fabrics

the accessories you sit down

on the point.

provided

for the machine,

you are ready to start to sew with your

new

to sew:

It should

made of synthetic

blends

be the correct tend

size for the fabric

to dull the needles more

and thread

being used. Do not be

easily than fabrics

made of natural

fibers.

2.

3.

4.

Before

placing

during

the sewing

Test the

the material

machine

tension

suitable

Fabric

should

seam marking

on the machine,

the ends of the threads

have been drawn

about

4 inches to the rear of the mach!ne_

Ho!don

to threads

stitch

on a scrap of the fabric

you

plan to use. The fabric

should

be double

thickness.

Adjust

the

the bulk

to the left of the needle and the right

machine

for the length

of stitch and

to the fabric. be placed

under

the presser

on the needle plate when

5,

Run the machine

6.

Fasten

7.

Always

8.

Guide

9,

When turning

sewing

the fabric

foot

making

at a slow even speed. The more

each seam by back tacking finish

see that

of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.

sewing

each seam with

gently

with

the hand wheel

your

pressure

of the material

edge of the material

placed on the 5/8'"

seam. you put on the foot

control,

the faster the machine

will

sew.

a few stitches in reverse.

the needle

hand in front

manually,

with

a simple

always

at its highest

point.

of the needle.

Never pull

turn

you.

it toward

or hold

the fabric

in such a way that the normal

feeding

is altered.

17

SECTION Straight

3.

LEARN THE STITCHES

Stitches

Straight Stitch

Use the Seam Guides

Set the Machine Stitch

I I I

Stitch length control red zone

Stitch selector Cornering

The Straight foot

1.

2.

Raise the presser foot.

Raise

the

needle

to

7. its

highest

position ....

At

the end of the

want 8_

to reverse

Raise the presser the fabric,

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

3.

Place

the

edge of

the fabric

next

seam, you

may

to lock the stitch, foot

Guide

seam

are there

guides on the needle to

help

you

plate

measure

seam

width.

The lines are 1/8" apart, the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.

with

and remove t

T_o+uare

Corner .....

-

_"

Zigzag foot needle

plate

(5/8"

is

most

common),

g

4.

Draw

the

threads

5.

back and lower the presser foot. to a stitching guide line on the Press the foot control.

6.

Hold

the fabric

guide

it

along

towards

loosely the

it feeds naturally,

Do

not

pull

it tight,

force

the

fabric

9.

Cut the threads.

[ !i ii'i:

and gently

guide

that

the

line,

so

To turn fabric

or try

to

1,

a square corner

Stop

stitching by

turning

toward

you

when

facing

you

lines

Raise the

Lower stitching

18

from

the

lower hand

the fabric up

with

the wheel edge the

guide, as shown.

the

fabric

the 5/8" 3.

and

needle

cornering 2.

5/8"

edge:

presser

foot

to

the

edge with

presser foot

and begin

line

and

turn

seam guide. the

in the new direction.

i

SECTION

•

3.

LEARN THE STITCHES

Left Needle Position

Topstitching Set the Machine

Stitch selector

Stitch

I 1 I Stitch length control red zone

Stitch selector

Here's How

Straight foot

1.

2.

Lower Keep to

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

the presser foot. the

the

edge of edge

guide

the fabric

Evenly

produce

topstitching

NOTE:

your

and Its Uses emphasizes

garment

and

keeps

two outer

suits

rows

of

or

next presser

the

lines

seams

of and

3/8'"

can

from

easily

from

topstitching

with

one or

around

the

of

the edge.

adjust

center

topstitching

without

your

from

fabric

Š

along this

an even row

zigzag presser foot.

blouses

edges of cuffs,

You needle

edges flat and crisp.

Accent

the

foot.

or

edge to

Topstitching

of

Zigzag foot 3.

The Stitch

the fabric

right

your

to left for moving under

Use

Left

Needle

Position

control

while

topstitching

stitching

difficult

NOTE:

Use

only

foot

for

for or

more edge

fabrics.

the zigzag

presser

Left

Needle

Sewing.

lapels or collars.

19

SECTION

3.

LEARN

THE STITCHES

• Fabric Put

the

gether per

right and

Set the Machine

sides

of

the

fabric

to-

Use the

reverse

to

lock

the stitches. the

length at "'3"'.

at

Zipper

1/8")

Stitch

teeth

sew to the end of the zip-

opening.

Sew

Sew in a Zipper

Preparation:

zipper "4"

opening and

top

with thread

Zipper

I I I

tape

stitch tension Stitch selector

Stitch length control 2

To Sew: 1. control 3 to 6

2.

4.

Turn

under

ance to form 3.

the

a 1/8"

Place the zipper 1/8"

fold

right

seam allow-

next

foot

on the left side

of the needle.

5.

fold.

teeth

To sew the left side of the zipper, set the zipper

Fold back the left seam allowance as shown.

to the

Lower the zipper foot on the right side at the bottom of the zipper so that the needle pierces the fold and the zipper tape.

and pin in place.

6.

Sew through the fold and the zipper tape to the point where the slider begins.

7.

Lower the needle to hold the fabric and raise the presser foot.

2O

SECTION

8.

9.

Open theztpper.

Lower

10.

the presser

foot

Close

and stitch

fabric

the

zipper

right

and

turn

the

11.

side up.

the rest of the seam.

12.

To

sew the

side of the needle.

INVISIBLE

ZIPPER

AND !

CORDING INVISIBLE

ZIPPER

the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper as shown. Follow the zipper manufacturer's instructions. After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch, Adjust

across

zipper

of

right Stitch

the

side

set

tom 13.

right

per,

and

the zip-

foot

on

the

bot-

the

corner

and continue

to

guide

the

teeth,

as shown.

Stitch

through

zipper

foot

the

zipper

Stop

about

2" from

Lower

the

needle

Remove

fabric

and

into

the fabric

the

basting

stitches

and

open the zipper.

17.

Lower

the foot

and stitch

of the seam. Make the

the top of the

and raise the presser foot.

16.

along

LEARN THE STITCHES

zipper.

15.

below

of the zipper.

Turn

14,

the

3.

the rest

sure the fold

is

even.

tape.

CORDING Foot

can

covers

also

etc.

fabric

end

be

used

Cover sew

e

to make cord

with

cording a strip

for

slip-

of

bias

as shown.

NOTE: Use (6757) which

"Low

Bar for

can

Sewing

"'invisible be obtained

Machine zipper" at any

ZIPPER end Sears

FOOT" "cording",

retail

store.

21

SECTION

3.

LEARN

Use the Darning

THE STITCHES

Plate

Darning Set the Machine Stitch

I I I

Stitch selector

Sometimes

when

to control

the fabric

you

sew,

you

Stitch length control any number (not necessary to adjust)

want

youself.

Here's

The

Darning

so that

they

do not touch

To Put on the Darning NOTE:

the fabric.

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

Plate:

The rectangular

holes

Darning

match

Plate

Darning

plate

1.

Put the darning plate on the needle plate

2.

Remove presser foot between embroidery centered.

3.

Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning.

4.

Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow speed.

5.

Move the fabric back and forth slowly until you have covered the darning area.

6.

Turn the fabric a half turn and sew another

in the the

holes

in the needle plate.

the

darning

holes

are slightly

plate,

No presser foot

2.

to the left

Position the darning plate with the 3 pins on the bottom.

Fit the darning plate pins into the needle plate holes. The feed dogs will show through the darning plate holes.

layer of stitching over the first layer.

Use the darning plate in the following ways:

Darning (P. 22) Button Sewing (P. 25)

NOTE:

7.

22

and stretch fabric hoops with hole

In

these

of center.

1.

How

Plate covers the feed dogs

If your fabric is thin or badly damaged, use a separate piece of fabric under the hole to reinforce it,

When you finish plate.

darning,

remove

the darning

SECTION

3.

LEARN THE STITCHES

Zigzag Stitches Basic Zigzag

Satin Stitch

Set the Machine

Set the Machine

Stitch

Zigzag

width

:

Close to 0

Stitch

1

Stitch length _ntrul it_J

Stitch selector

zone

Top thread tension control 2 to 5

Zigzag foot

2 Stitch length :

Stitch selector

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

Satin stitch foot

Here's How The Stitch The

zigzag

common your

and Its Uses stitch

and most versatile

machine.

for sewing ming,

is one

It

can

with

buttons,

trims,

also

mending be used

stitch hem-

and darnto decorate

and cut-out

stitch.

most

stitches on

buttonholes,

appliques

or as a decorative

of the

It can be a utility

overcasting,

ing.

The Stitch and Its Uses

work

The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorative stitch, but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge (for example, blankets, linens, tablecloths and napkins).

The Satin stitch is especially attractive in applique.

Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a scrap of the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light weight fabrics.

There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch.

Consult the specific variations for detailed directions.

Satin Stitch p. 23 Applique Work p. 24 Bar Tacking p. 24 Button Sewing p. 25 Overcasting p, 26 Three-step zigzag p. 2__7 Rick-rack stretch p. 32 Overcast stretch p. 33 Serging p. 34

23

SECTION

3.

LEARN

THE STITCHES

Zigzag Stitches (Continued) •

Bar Tacking

Applique

Set the Machine

Set the Machine Stitch

Stitch

HI

Stitch selector

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

Stitch length control 0.5 to 1

Satin stitch foot

Stitch selector

Baste

(or

joiner)

applique

fuse

Stitch

around

with

iron-on

fabric

This

stitch

is similar

pieces

on the

fabric.

satin

stitch

and

making

points

the

applique

sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique.

When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or left.

24

Stitch length control 0.5 to 1

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

Zigzag foot

of

strain

to a very short

is used to such

reinforce

as corners

pockets and straps on lingerie, Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches,

or

•

SECTION

3.

LEARN THE STITCHES

Sew a Button Set the Machine Stitch

Stitch length control any number (not necessary to adjust)

Stitch selector

Zigzag foot

Use the darning

plate for button

1.

Set the stitch selector

at "

2.

Align

the

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

both

holes

hole of the button Darning

of

sewing CII _

button

To strengthen the shank, cut the threads leaving a 20 cm (8") tail. Bring

(see p. 22). ,,

the with

the slot of the foot

and place the left

just below the needle point.

needle

thread

hole in the button

down

through

and wind

the

it around

the shank.

plate

3.

Lower

the

foot

and turn the

comes just above the right 4.

Sew about

5.

Set the stitch

stitch

selector

to

zigzag until

the

needle point

hole of the button.

Draw

the

thread

to

the

bottom

side

and knot.

five stitches and raise needle. selector

at ,,

I "again c1_

and sew a few stitches to lock

thread.

25

SECTION Zigzag •

3.

Stitches

LEARN

THE STITCHES

(Continued)

Overcasting Stitch Set the Machine Stitch

Stitch

selector

Stitch length control 1 to 2

't j

Helpful Hints Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

The Stitch

Zigzag

foot

and Its Uses

This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project.

26

raw corner of your seam. If you start right at the edge, the fabric will bunch up and the stitches will become tangled.

SECTION Zigzag Stitches

3.

LEARN

THE STITCHES

(Continued)

Three-Step Zigzag The Stitch and Its Uses

Set the Machine

The three-step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch. You may use the three-step zigzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag stitch, It has more strength, elasticity, and is flatter than a regular zigzag.

Stitch

Selector

release

I

Stitch

Stitch length control 0.5 to 1

selector

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

Zigzag foot

mending sewing patches smoothly securely, repairing straight tears. finishing seams.

and Seam Finishing

Mending

Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the edge will be slightly inside the right hand side of the presserfoot.

Position the tear under the needle so that the stitching will catch both sides.

Guide the work so the right hand stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.

NOTE:

Be

sure

selector

to

slide

release

back

the

to the "SEW"

position.

27

SECTION

•

Blind

3.

LEARN

THE STITCHES

Hemming

1/4"

Set the Ma_J_ine Stitch

Light Weight Fabric

Selector retease

I

Stitch tength control 1 to 3

Stitch selector

Heavy Weight Fabric

Top thread tendon control 1 to 4

Finish

2.

Measure, tUrn up your hem and pin.

NOTE:

Zigzag foot

j

1.

the raw edge of your

For light

weight fabrics,

3.

Fold the material

4.

Place garment

under

should just catch 5. %_

NOTE:

Be

sure

selector position.

28

to

slide

release

back

the

to the "SEW"

After

NOTE;

hemming, The blind

(wrong

hem any way you desired.

you

may need a double

(See Overcasting,

fold.

side out) on the edge to be stitched,

presser foot

the fold press both

in such a manner

p. ?_66)

that

as shown, leaving 1/4"

straight

stitches

of the finished

will be sewn on extended

hem edge showing. edge.

The zigzag stitd

of the garment. sides of the finished

hem stitch also can be used for

hem.

The top

Lace Work.

side of the garment

(See p. 29)

will

show only

the blind

stitches.

SECTION

Lace Work

3.

LEARNTHE

STITCHES

Shell Stitching Here's How

Set the Machine

Set the Machine

1.

Stitch

Stitch

For best effect: --

set the

stitch

-

desire. you may need to tighten top thread

Selector release

--

Selector release

allow

__._

length

as you

the

tension slightly.

the

needle

clear the folded

to

just

edge of the

!

Stitch length control 1to 2

I

Stitch selector

Stitch length control 1

Stitch selector

fabric when it zigzags.

2.

Zigzag foot

._

Top thread tension control 3 to 9

_

Lace

_

to blouses linenSand pillows andbecome lingerie. more Table elegant

adds

a fanciful,

when trimmed NOTE:

Be

sure

selector position.

to

slide

sew rows of shell stitches,

space the rows 1/2" apart. can sew You Shell Stitch on knits soft silky wovens in any direction.

_.

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

If you

back

the

release to the "SEW"

Turn I/2".

with

feminine

excess fabric

_

_

_

under

and Its Uses

The is formed by sewing blind Shell hem Stitch over folded fabric.

Several a tucks.r°ws of shell stitching i

underneath

stitch using stretch blind Trim

__

The Stitch

lace.

raw edge of fabric Place lace

touch

Zigzag foot

or

at least

Shell

stitching

can

are called shetl be used

to finish

hems, sleeve and neck openings.

and top-

Shell

hem stitch,

tucking

scalloped

close to stitching,

can be used

tucks

on

to

blouses

create and

lingerie.

NOTE:

Be

sure

selector

to

slide

release

back

the

to the "SEW'"

position.

29

SECTION

•

3.

LEARN

THE STITCHES

Box Stitching Set the Machine Stitch

Selector release

I

Stitch length control 1

Stitch selector

Use this

stitch

to join

heavy

interlining.

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

NOTE:

Be

sure

selector position.

3O

ZhTzagfoot

to release

slide

back

use this stitch

the

to the "SEW"

to join

them.

weight

SECTION

•

Fagoting

Decorate

Stitch Set

the

with Geometric

3.

Patterns

Stitch

Selector release

Selector release

Stitch length control green zone

!

I

Stitch length control 0.5 .to 2

Stitch selector

Stitch selector F,G,H or I

Here's How

Here's How 1.

Fold

under

each fabric

1.

edge 5/8"

Top thread tension control 3 to 8

Zigzag foot

2.

Pin the two edges to paper away

3.

Sew the

backing slowly, needle

1/8"

or tear-

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

Satin stitch foot

2.

sure

selector

to

slide

release

back

the

guiding catches

3.

the fabric so the folded

NOTE:

Be

fabric

this stitch to

appearance

sure

selector

to

slide

back

the

to join

create

The Stitches and Their Uses two

an

and add design

pieces

open

of

work

interest.

These stitches

are purely

You

can sew

vary

the

special

stitch

4.

and length

Practice

the

stitch

on a scrap of

Mark the line for decoration on

one

row

width

Lower

the

needle

at the

starting

point.

release to the "SEW"

position.

position.

Use

width

the fabric, using a washable fabric marker,

to the "SEW"

and Its Uses

the stitch

fabric.

apart.

edge on each side.

Be

Adjust

as you desire.

and press.

The Stitch

THE STITCHES

Set the Machine

Machine

Stitch

NOTE:

LEARN

5.

Lower

the presser foot.

6.

Gently

guide

maked

line.

the fabric

along the

decorative. or and

several or length

for

effects.

Experiment

on a scrap of fabric

what

effects

special

to see

are possible.

31

SECTION

3.

LEARN

THE STITCHES

Stretch Stitches •

StraightStretch

Rick-Rack Stretch

Set the Machine

Set the Machine

Stitch

Stitch

III III III

Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position

Stitch selector

Stitch selector

L__J

Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position

Straight foot

k__J

The Stitch

and Its Uses

Sew on stretch Top thread tension control 2 to 6

Top thread tension control t to 4

or Zigzag foot

!

The

stretch

actually sewn,

This

and Its Uses

stitch

is the

the straight ed for Stretch

stitch as

curved will

can

well.

seams

be used It

and

receive

(ie. children's

32

of

develop-

works

on

a great

clothes).

but

any

on

other

well

on

garments

deal of strain

is and

(sometimes action" give

knits and stretch fabrics.

fabrics

that

variation

especially

stitch

stretch

forward

stretch

stitch,

fooz

when

!nstead can also

of

the

in

back

so

break!ng_

"reverse-

that

it will stretches

Th!s

st!tch

be used for topstitching

on all fabrics.

a

motion

a

fabric

not

is being

stitched

called

stitch),

does

as it

i n any area that

use a zigzag stitch.

This

can be used as a decorative

stitch

top stitch

\

The Stitch

Zigzag

fabrics

you might

as well.

SECTION

Overcast

Smocking

3.

LEARN

THE STITCHES

Stretch Stitching Set the Machine

Set the Machine

Stitch

Stitch

Selector release

Selector release

Stitch selector

stit le.gth control brown

Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position

Stitch

stretch stitch position

selector

Here's How

[__l

L_J

Place

the

the LEFT Top thread tension control 1 to 4

$

fabric

to

Zigzag foot

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

Zigzag foot

raw edge of the

of the needle as shown.

Stitch

so the needle pierces the fabric

just short of the outside edge.

Or, place your fabric seam,

then

trim

to allow a 5/8" seam

allowance

after.

With NOTE:

Be

sure

selector 3osition.

to

slide

release

back

the

to the "SEW"

the stitch length at "4",

straight

stitching

lines

3/8"

sew apart

across the area to be smocked, Knot the

the threads bobbin

gathers evenly. the other end. stitch

between

and distribute

gathering

Pu II out the gathering NOTE:

Loosen tension easier.

Pull the

Secure the threads at Sew the decorative the

the to

stitches.

stitches. top make

Be

sure

selector

along one edge.

threads

Raw or worn NOTE:

thread gathering

to

slide

release

back

the

to the "SEW"

position.

The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast finish.

The seam is formed and finished in one operation.

It can be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch.

edges of older

can be overcast to prevent

garments

further

raveling.

NOTE:

Use a blue stretch fabric needle, which effectively prevents skipped stitches.

33

SECTION

3.

LEARN

THE STITCHES , /

•

Serglng or Pine Leaf Stretch

Stitching

Elastic Stretch

Stitch

/Set

the Machine

Setthe

Stitch

Machine

Stitch :

N Selector release

"il

Selector release Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position

I

Stitch selector

Stitch length control brown s_retcn stitch position

I

Stitch selector

'i

Here's How Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the stitches are made ever theedge.

/i••

Top thread tension control 1 t_4

Zigzag foot

Or, place your fabric to aglow a 5/8" seam, then trim seam allowance after.

NOTE: NOTE:

Be

sure

selector

to

slide

back

the

release to the "'SEW'"

position.

The Stitch and Its Uses

Use this stitch narrow seam that press open fiat. seams on knits

when you want a you do not need to It s ideal for 1/4" or on medium to

heavyweight woven fabrics where you want a narrow seam. It is also great for making elastic swim wear.

34

When using stretch knit fabric, use a blue stretch fabric needle which effectively prevents skipped stitches.

NOTE:

Be

sure

selector position.

to

slide

release

back

the

to the "SEW"

Choose

this

stitch

to attach

elastic

to

garments.

1.

Mark match

2,

the elastic these

into quarters

to

the center

and front,

center

back and side seams.

Place

the

middle

of

the

elastic

under

the

center

of

the

presser

foot and stitch sure the buted.

fabric

into place, making is evenly

distri-

'

: . :

SECTION

•

Herring Bone Stretch

3.

LEARN

THE STITCHES

Decorative Stretch Patterns

Set the Machine

Set the Machine

Stitch

Stitch

Selector release o.t^_

!

Stitch

selector

Stitch length control brown stretch st=tch position

....

! ....

Stitch length coFIt rol

l

Drown

stretch stitch oosition

Stitch selector F, G,H or Here's How Place 3/8"

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

Zigzag foot

Trim

the from close

prevent

The Stitch fabric

top

side

up,

I____J

and sew

the edge. to stitching.

The stitch

will

Top thread tension control 1 to 4

Zigzag foot

Decorative for touch

to

raveling.

can

women's

and Its Uses

Use as hemming stitch tablecloth and draperies.

NOTE:

for blankets,

stretch

adding

patterns

creative the

items

and you

can be used personalised sew

for your

children's

clothes,

home and family.

You

The Stitch

and Its Uses

Be

sure

selector

to

slide

back

decorate blouses,

curtains,

etc.

the

release to the "SEW'"

position,

35

SECTION

3.

LEARN

THE STITCHES

Buttonholes

Set the Machine Stitch

U Stitch length control blue zone

Stitch selector

1. a. Carefully length b,

Top thread tension control 1 to 5

S|[d]ng buttonhole foot

the

buttonhole

Insert foot

tO the .................. _IIIU|ll_ UU

the with

ing running

garment the

I.I.UI

the top

b. Line

up

foot

with

the

(A) toward _nark

the

c. Lower NOTE:

the Stitch

Depending own

upon

may

a{ter

density

in

the

within

(_

For

_he

more

toward @

For

36

blue

length

density,

on

front the

The

markings

on

c. Stop

sewing

slider

in centimeters.

you stitch

_ttenhole dial.

turn

the

dial

density,

turn

the

dial

"1 ".

Always

make

tonhole

on a scrap

you

plan

to

more

suitable

a practice

use to stitch

of

Q stitches F ine for light fabrics

H

_

stitches for heavy Coarse fabrics

butfabric

find

the

length,

_ "

<>

_

of

at

_

yo_rreach your

•

_

,

i

¸

. the

bu[£on-

hole.

on your

the

until

marking

or your

"0". less

toward NOTE:

fabric

buttonholes, buttonhole

range on the stitch

mark

(B)

Density your

preference

mark

selector

I_. Sew forward

the presser foot.

are engraved Adjusting

3. a. Set the stitch

[C} on _he

markings

the top

you

garment.

mark-

you.

slider

slider meet_ th_ start

I! IU|l_

under

buttonhole

toward

the

so that

f0ot. c,

2. a. Move

on yourgarment,

.... _,,=Hy= _

mark

at the left stitch.

SECTION

a. Set the stitch

selector

[1

at

5. a. Set the stitch

b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c.

Stop sewing

at the right

b. Sew

until

marking

stitch

selector

you

at

reach

131 the

back

of the buttonhole.

e. Stop sewing

at the right

6. a. Set the stitch

selector

at

_J

b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop

sewing

m

t_

4,

3.

LEARN

7. Remove open with

THE STITCHES

the fabric

and cut the hole

the buttonhole

opener.

at tne left stitch.

stitch.

....

NOTE : When sewing at the

E

sliding buttonhole and sewin reverse(

edge of fabric,

set

foot as illustrated ___>r__,lr_--_r_ ).

LI _ U _

4

37

SECTION

4.

PERFORMANCE

PROBLEMS

CHART

What to Do When

PROBLEM

Skipping

PROBABLE

Stitches

Breaking

Upper

Thread

CAUSE

CORRECTION

Incorrect size needle.

Bent or blunt needle.

Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle.

Incorrect setting of needle.

Tight upper thread tension.

Reset needle.

Loosen upper

Starting to stitch too fast.

Improper threading.

Tight upper thread tension.

Incorrect size needle.

Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine.

Breaking Bobbin Thread

Fabric

not Moving

Machine Jamming Knocking

38

Noise

at hole of_eedle

tension.

speed.

Loosen upper thread tension.

Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle.

Sharp eye in needle.

Nicks or burrs on shuttle.

Nicks o_bun_

thread

plate_

Replace Rep!ane

and fabric.

shuttle, or polish off burrs completely. needlep_ po!isl_of_burr_â&#x201A;Źon_y.

Improl_er bobbin case threading.

Lint in bobbin case or shuttle,

Check bobbin case threading.

Clean bobbin case and shuttle.

Darning plate in place.

Stitch Length set at 0.

Thread knotted under fabric.

Remove darning plate.

Adjust Stitch Length Control.

Place both threads back under to stitch.

Thread caught Lint in bobbin

Disassemble and clean shuttle.

Clean bobbin case and shuttle.

in shuttle. case or shuttle.

and fabric.

presser foot

before

beginning

SECTION

4.

PERFORMANCE

PROBLEMS CHART

What to Do When (Continued)

PROBLEM

Irregular Stitches

Breaking Needle

Bunching of Thread

Puckering

PROBABLE CAUSE

CORRECTION

Incorrect size needle.

Improper threading.

Loose upper thread tension.

Pulling fabric.

Loose pr_ Unevenly wound bobbin.

Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.

Choose correct size needle for thread Rethread machine.

Pulling fabric.

Incorrect size needle.

Incorrect setting of needle.

Loose presser foot.

Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Reset needle.

Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam.

When

Incorrect thread tension(s).

Using two different sizes or kinds of thread.

Reset thread tension(s).

Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.

Bent or blunt needle.

Fabric very sheer or very soft.

and fabric.

Tighten upper thread tension.

Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

RA_Rt pr_Ar fnnt Rewind bobbin needle plate,

or polish off burrs

completely.

Reset presser foot,

,

starting a seam be sure to draw

back of presser foot formed.

1

Insert

about 4" and hold

both threads until

under and

a few stitchs

are

new needle.

Use underlay

of tissue paper.

39

SECTION

5,

CARE FOR THE

Replacing the Light Bulb

MACHINE Cleaning the Machine To insure that The feed

your

machine

dogs and shuttle

operates

at its best, you need to keep the essential

race areas can attract

dust and lint.

Your

machine

parts clean at all times.

can become

sluggish or knock

feed

Replace

loudly

is caught.

Check and clean those areas about

every

If you sew frequently,

often.

â&#x20AC;˘

1.

clean more

three

months

under

normal

use.

Clean the Feed Dogs

Unplug the machine and open the face cover.

CAUTION!

The

light

bulb

HOT.

could

Protect

fingers

when

you

be your

handle

Follow

these directions:

it.

Unplug 2.

Push bulb

the

bulb

up

counter-clockwise

and

turn to

the

remove

it.

3;

Put the new up and turning

40

the

presser foot Using

a

screw

needle plate. bulb

in by pushing it

it clockwise.

machine.

Remove

and needle, driver,

2.

Use a lint dogs,

remove

brush

to clean

the

3.

needle plate.

if a thread

SECTION

5.

CARE FOR THE MACHINE

â&#x20AC;˘ Clean the Shuttle Race This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. about every three months.

Center pin of the shuttle

Shuttle

Clean the shuttle race area

driver Lever

Lever

Lever

Shuttle

Race

Lever (Oil

here)

Shuttle Cover

Bobb

Race

case

To Clean the Shuttle 1.

Raise point

2.

the

needle

and remove

Push shuttle shuttle

3.

Area:

Clean

race

bar

To Replace to

its

the bobbin levers

highest

aside.

shuttle

race

with

out. a

Put a drop the shuttle

2.

over-oil.

shuttle is forming

Hold

shuttle

to form

lint

will of oil on the center pin of and shuttle race.

Do not

Assembly: race half

as illustrated

so that

moon

left

on the

shuttle

side of the

machine.

brush.

4.

Position driver

Lift

race cover and take shuttle the

!,

case:

Shuttle

3.

by center pin and position

a half moon

shuttle

on the right

side.

Pointed

cover

place

over

so as hook

be on the bottom.

Place

shuttle

race

into

shuttle

assembly.

4.

Snap the levers back into the original

position.

41

SECTION

5.

CARE FOR THE

MACHINE

Oiling the Machine Oil

the

machine

frequently, sewing

machine

Kenmore NOTE:

â&#x20AC;˘

oil

sewing Unplug

in all

areas shown

the machine oil.

under

One or two

machine

on

the

drops

oil is available

the machine

before

this

top of oil

page at least

cover

is sufficient.

at your

oiling.

about

once

every

a year;

three

Remove

otherwise

months. excess oil,

the

machine

In case machine otherwise

can become

is not

it may stain

sluggish

or will

used for an extended

knock

time,

loudly.

oil it before

If you sewing.

use the machine Use good quality

fabric.

nearest Sears retail store.

Remove

needle and put needle bar in full

down

position.

Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate Arm

cover

â&#x20AC;˘

Oil the Underside

plate

Face cover plate I I

Shuttle

Open face cover in illustration.

Use only

42

a drop

plate and/or

remove

of oil; do not over-oil.

arm

cover

plate

by

loosening

top

screw

to

oil

points

Open the shuttle the left side of remove

bottom

cover

cover by pulling the cover.

Tilt cover.

Oil points

down the embossed part on the machine head back and in illustration.

PARTS LIST

All parts listed WHEN

1

2

5

6

herein may be ordered from

ORDERING

1. PART

'

t

i_

/

J

If the

i

parts

transmitted

9

13

14

10

11

12

15

16

,ii

17

19

20

_

_

you

1 2 3 4 5

NUMBER NUMBER

need are not

ALWAYS

GIVE

THE

stocked

2. PART

DESCRIPTION

4.

OF ITEM

NAME

locally,

Parts Distribution

your

FOLLOWING

6 7 8 9 10 11

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

*6757 135 *6864 6797 6830 802424004 820832005 41669 *6889 735801008

are not furnished above.

order

will

be electronically

Center for expedited

Part No. 47 6510 *6862 1939 8134O4013 6551 6552 6553 6554 801506008 648801108 650802014 735503018 6870 593401008

*These items instructions

â&#x20AC;¢

MODEL

to a Sears Repair

Ref. No.

8

PARTS,

INFORMATION:

3. /

REPAIR

any Sears store or service center.

handling.

Description Shuttle Bobbin case Bobbin box with 10 bobbins Bobbin winder No. 11 Stretch

rubber ring fabric needles

(BLU)

No. 11 Single needles (ORG) No. 14 Single needles (RED) No. 16 Single needles (PUR) No. 18 Single needles (GRN} Needle clamp with screw Sliding buttonhole foot Straight stitch foot Standard zigzag foot Satin stitch foot Zipper foot Zipper foot Thumb screw Needle threader Light bulb Buttonhole Lint brush

opener

Large screw driver Small screw driver Oil and lint brush Darning

with

plate

the machine,

but may be ordered

per

43

INDEX A Accessory storage box ...............

Adjusting stretch stitch balance .........

Applique ........................

Arm cover plate ...................

3, 7 16 24 42

B Bar tacking ......................

Basic zigzag ......................

Blind hemming ....................

Bobbin ...................

Bobbin case ...............

Bobbin thread ..................

Bobbin winding .................

Bobbin winding tension disc ..........

Bobbin winding spindle .............

Box stitching .....................

Buttonhole ....................

D...... k^l .......

I_j ttt2n _â&#x201A;Ź_wing

24 23 28 4, 9_10, 43 9_10, 41, 43 12_13 9_10 3, 10 3, 10 30 36 _37 4 37 43 ......

..........................

3

Carrying handle ....................

Changing needle ....................

Changing presser foot ................

Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race Clutch knob ..................

Cording Cornering

4 7 7 ....

40_41 4, 9, 10

........................ guide ...................

21 18

........................

Darningptate:

:.

::

;:;:

22 : ::

4; 19;22;25;43

E Elastic stretch stitch ................

Extension table ...................

34 3, 7

44

7

Hand wheel .....................

Herring bone stretch ................

3, 17 35

I Invisible zipper ....................

21

B 3, 42

S Satin stitch foot ..........

Satin stitch ......................

Lace work .......................

Large screw driver .................

Light and power switch .............

Light bulb ...................

Lint brush ...................

29 4, 43 4_5 5, 40, 43 4, 40, 43

N

4, 23_24,

Seam guides ......................

Serging .........................

Sewing light .......................

Shell stitching ....................

Shuttle .......................

Shuttle cover .....................

Shuttle race ......................

Sliding buttonhole Small screw driver

L

foot ....... .................

18 34 5 29 41,43 3, 9 41 4, 36_37,

Smocking .......................

Spool pin .......................

Stitch length control ...............

Stitch selector ...................

Straight Straight Straight

stitch .................. stitch foot ........... stretch ...................

31,43 23

43 4, 43 33 3, 6 3, 16 3, 15

1B_l 9 4, 19, 32, 43 32

T Needle clamp screw ..............

Needle plate ....................

Needle, thread and fabric chart

..........

4, 7, 43 3, 40 8

O Oiling ..........................

Overcasting stitch ..................

Overcast stretch stitching .............

42 26 33

P ........................

Performance problems chart .........

Pine leaf stretch stitching .............

Piugconnector_ _ _ _;;; ;;..;i ; i ._; Portable case ......................

Power switch ......................

Presser foot Presser foot

....................... lever ..................

43 38_39 34 4_5 3 5 4 4, 6

R

F Fabirc, needle, thread and stitch length chart Face cover plate ..................

....................

H

Parts list

D Darning

Free arm sewing

40 4_5

25

C Cabinet

Feed dogs .......................

Foot control ....................

Replacing bobbin case .............

Reverse stitch control ..............

Rick rack stretch ..................

9_10 3, 14 32

Thread cutter .....................

Thread guide ....................

Thread take-up lever ...............

Thread tensions .................

Three-step zigzag ..................

Topstitching .....................

Top thread ....................

Top thread tension ......... ......

Top thread tension control .............

Turn a square corner ................

3, 6 3, 11 3, 11 13_14 27 19 11 _14 13_14 3 18

Zigzagfoot ,;;,.;,_;,,,t_t9;23_35,43 Zigzag stitches ..................

Zipper application ...............

23_31 20_21

Zipper

foot

...............

4, 20_21,43

___411_ "_IFl_

'lllb_

'_i" _

'III' _

'lib'_

'till' _

"llb _

'llh_

11111. _

illil. _

"III I

_FII *I

'_lll_

'_lh _

IIIi_

qll, _

"llh _

"IPII. _

IIII _

'llbl_

'III I

'Ii_ -IIII,..Ip_l I

'IIIi I

"PlhI

dlb- I

qll 41-

'Jl_,_

'llh

+

รท

#

#

+

+ WARRANTY

FULL

25-YEAR

WARRANTY

ON SEWING

MACHINE

+

HEAD

# ---"

+ For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears wilt, free of ch_ge, in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head.

repair

defects

in material

or workmanship

which

appear #

__-=

# __=

il

FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material

#

appear in the electrical speed control FULL

_1

90-DAY

SERVICE

CENTER!DEPARTMENT 0

WARRANTY

For 90 days from necessary for proper

WARRANTY

This warranty

equipment

ON ALL

the date operation

IS AVAILABLE IN THE

gives you specific

sewing

PARTS

machine,

AND

including

MECHANICAL

electronic

components,

UNITED

legal rights,

BY RETURNING

THE

or workmanship

motor,

wiring,

SEWING

MACHINE

-_ () #

and p_o_ide

TO THE

NEAREST

mechanical

SEARS

se_ice

SERVICE

l_

and you may also have other

AND

and

P

STATES.

ROEBUCK

which

switch

ADJUSTMENTS

of purchase, Sears wil!. free of charge, replac_ any parts of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.

SEARS,

_-="

of the

CO.,

D/817

rights which

WA, Hoffman

vary from

state to state.

Estates, IL 60179

SEWING Now

that

MACHINE

you

or service,

have purchased

simply

contact

your

your

Kenmore

nearest

Sewing

Machine,

Sears Service Center.

should

a need ever exist

Be sure to provide

for repair

all pertinent

parts

facts when

you call or visit.

The model your

Sewing

WHEN

number

of your

Machine.

ORDERING

_PARTNUMBER

you

Sewing

Machine

will

be shown

on your

nomenclature

plate

on the back

REPAIR

=PANi

If the

parts

Repair

Parts Distribution

need

PARTS,

ALWAYS

DESCRiPTiON

are not Center

stocked

G VE THE

*MODEL

locally,

your

FOLLOWING

NUMBER

order

will

INFORMATION:

=NAMEOF

iTEM

be electronically

transmitted

to

a Sears

for handling.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.

S-385

of

See page 4 for location.

Printed

in Taiwan

Part No.735806302

1.You' fnd the

spool pn on the top cover.

Pul! ul up the spool pin, PUl! the spool pin, foot control into machine 2. Plug foot control into machine Then connect cord into any 110 _ 120 volt A,C. wall outlet, any110 _120 volt A, :. wall outlet, 3 Your Your Kenmore sewing sewillg machine mach ne has been been thoroughty thoroughty oiled oile( at at the the factory. factory.

Be sure to wipe off the needle plate

"_

rocep=c Then e co,nect cordnto

_'_ _ "_1 _

xJ

_/t///f_

//

If _ II

21

_'_/

H

• b_e sew_n_ i

STRAIGI_T

surplus oil is absorbed.

I

cl _

RED

ZONE

2 TO

6

A or C

_r--

STITCH SELECTOR

ZIGZAG •

THREE-STEP Z GZAG

\

A

BLIND (STRETCH} SHELL BOX

" _.-

^

^

/ V V \

_-_

1.

2.

Slide"RELEASE'* Selact _attem "A" Slide ' RELEASE"

right

3.

1

left / right'

r

Slide "RELEASE:" S{ide "RELEASE"

2.

Select pstlern"C 3 SIde"RELEASE"left 1. Sli_e _RE LEASE" right 2 Sabot em *'O _' ,

t_e_

Setting mark (_,_.......,.

left

I. SIIde*'RELEASE'_ 2..le= I_attern "S"-

1. _kI_"FIEL_=ASE

FAGOTING STITCH

There are certain types Of stitches that are used

right

Selector Release

m__

:

_T03

l

. _

_ I

-

1 /UZ

1TO4

I

A

....

I /

--

3_U_

I

A

more often than others in your garment construction. Because of their frequent use, you will soon realize the ccnvenience offered to you by this control, The desired stitch will be obtained by turningthe

k_

Stitch Selector.

" right

2.

Sele_

"E _'

I 2 3.

1, 2.

3.

Slide "RELI_ASE" Select pattern "C ' SI_e'RELEASE Slide "RELEASE" Select ttern "D_" Stide"_a_L_ASE"

3. Stide "_aE LEASE" !_ft

1) right left right " left

t. Slide "RELEASE' rgh_ 2 Setect ern "_E'_ 3. Slide =_tEl_EASE'[eft

BROWN pOS T ON

BROWN

POS TION • BROWN : PosITION

ial.

FOS!_i0N

,

.....

CARE

FREE

STITCHING

de/gends

and the LITTLE

on the BIG _

SHUTTLE NEEDLES THREADING r

V

I

Clean in and around the shuttle and feed dogs to remove accumulated dust and lint which may cause NOISE OR JAMMING.

F

OILING EEDING TENSION

_

FEEDING

OILING

(MATERIAL DOESN'T FEED PROPERLY)

The more you use your machine, the less often it needs oil. If you have not used your machine for a few months, and it seems sluggish, oil your machine.

Periodically oil at points indicated in your instruction book.

USE ONLY KENMORE SEWING MACHINE OIL.

Check stitch

length.

i+ P

o°+°[ ,,I

,:(,=

Flat side away from you

)

TENSION

_) TOP

HREADING

THREADbreaks, CAN unthread TANGLE andAND without thebeing seen. both If your thread then SNAP RETHREAD machine, top and bottom threads, THREADING

Make sure there is no slack or snags in the thread.

Use the type of thread and size needle recommended in your instruction book.

Thread should come off the back of the spoo| as shown+

Bo'rroM

THREADING

1. Insert bobbin with thread wound as shown and guide bobbin onto center pin of bobbin case.

2, Pull thread through slot.

3. Pull thread uader tension spring.

4. Holding latch open, position case into shuttle, and release latch.

COMPLETING

THREADING

Hold top thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn.

Bring bottom thread up and next, pull top and bottom threads under and to the back of presser foot.

_

-

Compare your straight stitching with the illustrations. If it looks like either of the top two, correct the thread tension dial as shown.

BE SURE TO NOTE YOUR PRESENT SETTING BEFORE YOU START ADJUSTING.

_

_I_II_

t Upper

thread

Correct

too

_ _

Decrease

tension

tight

stitching

IMPORTANT For your safety an important new feature has been incorporated in this machine.

The light/power switch provides electric current for the motor as well as the light, In order to operate the machine this switch must be on.

If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended, just turn off the light/power switch and the machine can not be started accidentally by pressing on the foot control.

This feature also applies when the machine is in storage.

The foot control is used to vary the machine speed from zero to high.

h

OPTIONAL

FEET AND ATTACHMENT

(SEWING

MACHINE

SOURCE

(A)

(B)

SEWING MACHINE MODEL NO

SEWING MACHIN E PART NO__

PART DESCRIPTION

200012104

Hemmer Foot

214872000

Walking Foot

941450000

(Even Foot) Pin-Tuck Foot

10111, 11607, 12331, 12492, 12641, 12781, 17781,

11541, 11682, 12332, 12493, 12712, 12841, 17881,

11551, 12320, 12490, 12541, 12714, 16951,

15841,

16841,

17641,1

17922,

17928,

11581, 12321, 12491, 1258'1, 12741, 17622,

"

385)

(C)

941460000

Gathering Foot Ruffler

941620000

Piping Foot Gathering Foot

200002008

17824,

200003009

200013105

Pin-Tucking Foot Hemmer Foot

200027102

Binder Foot

20O0301O8

1/4" Seam Foot

214872000

Walking Foot Embroidery Foot Ruffler

200005001

654805008 941620000 I 18836,

18841,

19502,

19601.

19150,1 19501,

I

Piping Foot Gathering Foot

200002008 200003009

200013105

Pin-Tucking Foot Hemmer Foot

200027102

Binder Foot

200005001

15641.

16641,

200028103

Roller Foot

200029104 200030108

Teflon Foot 1/4" Seam Foot

200031109

Applique Foot

200032100

Cording Foot

214872000

Walking Foot

654805008 941620000

Embroidery Foot Ruffler

ML-330555

Elastic

200201009

Piping Foot

200209100

Blind Hem Foot

200210104

Taping

Foot

Foot With Tape

Reel 200212106

Cording

340522N

Pearl Sewing

All parts listed above may be ordered by calling Sears Teleparts When ordering

repair pads, always qive the following

1.

Part Number

2.

3.

4.

Part Description (SEE COLUMN C) Model Numberof SeWing Machine: Example Name of Item (SEWING MACHINE)

(SEECOLUMN

information.

Foot Foot

oo

nter at 1 (800)366-7278.

B)

f the parts you need are not stocked locally D str bution Center for expedited handling.

(385.

xxxxx)

your order witl be el_ectronically transmitted

to the Sears Parts 735 811-OO1

'ORTANT To reduce the elcctri_

shock: I

i

*The plug is intended If the plug does not If it still does

t_ ! it in a polarized outlet only one way. fi_ f _lly in the outlet, reverse the plug. electrician to install not fit, 4ol tact a qualified

the outlet tl_e pl t_g tny Do proper not modify

/

way.

Replace foot controlle_ /ith the same type. or YC-30 Foot Controller: MODE L YC-482P l