Kenmore 385 1584180 sewing machine user manual

OWNER'S MANUAL

:

SEWING MODEL

MACHINE

385. 1584180

: :: :: :: i::::! :::ii::_:i!:::::::::! _I:I ii:!:i:!i_

SEARS, ROEBUCK

AND

CO.

Dear Customer:

You

have just

invested

in a very

please pause for a moment and care for your

Specific

the

Advice

on the

zigzag sewing

machine.

read this booklet

Before

which

using your

contains

new Kenmore

instructions

on how

machine, to operate

machine.

instructions

obtain

fine

and carefully

are glven

best sewing

operation

and avoid

and care

Please remember,

if you

the model

and serial

number

on threading,

results

of your

have questions number

tension

adiustments0

unnecessary

machine about

when

service

is always

your

cleaning,

expense

machine

oiting,

etc. This will

for conditions

available or need

at your parts

beyond

nearest Sears Retail and service,

you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine Record

m

number

of this

are Located

space provided appliance.

on the

below

the

The modei

nomenclature

model number

prate,

number

and

seriai

and serta! number

as identified

on Page 3 of

this booklet.

Model No. 385, Serial No. Retain these numbers for future reference.

THIS MODEL tS A CENTER

NEEDLE,

help you

our control.

LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE,

Store.

always mention

TABLE SECTION

KNOW

I.

YOUR

PREPARE

2,

YOUR

MACHINE

FOR

Setting Adiust Thread

2 2_3 4

SEWING

Set Up the Machine ......................... o Plut in the machine and Switch on the Power o Foot Control Use ....................... o Set the Pressure Dial ..................... o o -

5_9 .........

Spool Pins .................... the Presser Foot Lever ..................

Cutter ............................

Table

Change the Presser Foot .................... o Presser Foot Types .....................

Choose Your Needle and Thread .............. o Check Your Needle ......................... o Fabrtc, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length o To Change Your Needle .....................

Prepare the Bobbin ..........................

6 To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine a Wind the Bobbin ....................... e Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder

SECTION

3°

5 5 6 7 7 7

a Accessory Storage Box ...................... o Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Know What the Presser Feet Will Do .......... o Check Your Presser Foot .....................

8 8_9 10_12 10 10 11_12 13_t4 t3

Chart

........ .........

....

14 14 15_16 15 15 16

Prepare Your Top Thread .................. o Thread Your Needle .........................

17"20 17

o Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ................. o Adjust the Top Thread Tension ..............

Stitch Selector .............................

Stitch Width Control ........................

18 19_20 20 21

Stitch Length Control ......................

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................

Reverse Stitch Control ...................

21 21 22

Starting

22

To Sew

LEARN Practica]

THE Stitch

o Turn a Square Corner ...................... o Use the Darning Plate .................... o Topstitchmg ............................

Darning ...............................

Straight Stretch .............................

Zigzag Stitches ....................

• Basic Zigzag ............................. o Satin Stitch ......................... o Applique ............................. o Bar Tacking ......................... o Monogramming ......................... o Embroidery ........................... o Sew a Button ............................ o Overcasting Stitch ....................... o Rick-Rack Stretch ....................... e Three-Step Zigzag ....................... o Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... e Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............

Blind Hemming ............................

Lace Work .................................

Buttonhole Making ........................

Sew in a Zipper ........................

Shell Stitching .............................

Two-Point Shell Stitching .....................

Smocking .................................

Stretch Patching ............................

Fagoting Stitch ............................

Herring Bone Stretch ........................

Elastic Stretch Stitch .........................

Box Stitching ..............................

MACHINE

A Portable case or Cabinet is Available .............

Locate and Identify the parts ..................

Indentify the Accessories ..........................

SECTION

OF CONTENTS

.............................

SECTION

4.

Chart

......................

PROBLEMS

CHART

What to Do When .........................

SECTION

5.

CARE

FOR

YOUR

Replace the Light Clean the Bobbin

23"_26

PARTS LIST

27_29 27 27

INDEX

......................................

............................................

48"--49

MACHINE

Bulb .......................

Holder ......................

Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Oiling the Machines ..........................

STITCHES

Straight Stitches .......................... o Straight Stitch ........................... a Use the Seam Gutdes ......................

PERFORMANCE

27 28 28 29 29 30_37 30 31 32 32 33 33 34 35 35 36 37 37 38 39 40"_41 42"43 44 44 45 45 46 46 47 47

50 50 .............

51 51

52_53 54_55

: ::locate: anaiiaentify: A

fuN-line

nearest

of

Sears

sewing retail

cabinets store

or

is available through

our

ttle Parts:: i

at your general

catalog.

Another your

option

Kenmore

• , _ buy

a Carrying

goes anywhere,

can

Case . _ , then be stored

Thread

Spool

Pins

any-

where.

Bobbin Upper

Take-up

Thread

Spindle

Width

Control

Stitch

Length

Control

Reverse

Stitch

Lever

Top Thread Control

Face Cover Thread

Winding

Guide

Tension

Piate

Cutter

Needie Plate

\

J

\\

\

\ \

J

2

Extension Tabte \,\ (Accessory storage box)

Con trol

Arm

Cover

Carrying

Plate \

\

\

Handle

/ i

!/

Presser

Hand Wheel

Push*Pull

Foot

,.

Clutch

Stitch

Selector

Stretch

Stitch

/_

Adiuster

Snap-on

.t .JSll Free Arm

L_ght and Power Sw_tch

Plug Connector

.j

Foot

_-,

-.,

Nomenclature

Plate

Control

Button

Bobbin

Darning

plate

Buttonhole

Large screw

opener

driver

Needle

Small

set

screw

Lint

drwer

Spool \

J Zipper

foot

Stra3ght stitch foot

--%

Sliding buttonhole

/" toot

/

brush

pin teft

Set Up the Machine Plug in the Machine

and Switch

Power

supply

o

on the Power

Foot Control

Use

plug

Power swlIch

\ Fool c/ontro!

Sewmg

ligh!

Power swltch

% J

4.

PIug connector

Before

the

plug

be

the

power

sure

into

your

sw_tch

is

OFF

I,

Check Volt

2,

3.

your

outlet

to be sureitis

and power and sewing

switch

to turn

light.

The

a 110to

!20

Your

FEATUR E:

machine

wil!

lighttpower

switch

interrupted

or

light/power

switch

children.

control

not

operate

sewing, to

unless

the

If you

are

on. turn

prevent

off

the

injury

to

To

regulates

increase

speed,

Insert

the

machine

plug

outlet,

as shown.

It will

Insert

the power

supply

into

only

the

three-prong

fit one way.

plug into

the outlet.

speed

at

decrease

gently

press down

with

toot.

speed,

release

your

foot

control

is sensitive

pres-

sure slightly, NOTE:

The

foot

win

increase

sewing

AC outlet.

the

you sew.

the ball of your

is turned

stop

foot

which To

SAFETY

inserting

machine,

light

on the power Machine plug

NOTE.

Push the

or

Practice

on

regulate

your

your

decrease

speed

and your

immediately.

a scrap

of

sewmg

taste and needs,

fabric

to

speed

to

SetUp the MaChine:i:I(Continued) = f

Set the Pressure Dial

Groove Pressure control dial

Setting mark

J

The pressure

control

Set the dial aligning

dial is located the setting

3 .....

most

2 .....

applique

1 .....

basting,

sewing

Also for

velours

NOTE:

The the it.

inside

marl{

the face cover plate.

on the dial with

the groove

as follows.

sewing and Cut-Outwork

pressure machine

chiffon,

lace, organdy

and knits

dial

should

(with

more

and other

be reset at 3 after

is ready for most normal

lightweight

fabrics.

stretch).

sewing

changing

pressure,

the next time

so

you use

o

Setting

Spool

Pins

o f

Adjust

the Presser Foot

= Thread Cutter

Lever

Spool pln felt-_._O Spool pin

Normal up

_--

pos_llon

l

Tuh[rteeard

(

Hi l,\i

positron

"'-

Presser toot lever

The

spool

spools

pins

of thread

are used in order

for

holding

to feed thread

the

You

to

the machine.

To use, pull spool storage.

felt

up on

the the

spool pros.

pros.

Push

Place the down

for

The

Presser

Foot

Lever

raises

and

lowers

your

presse r foot.

to

help

you

1/4"

for easy removal place

heavy

higher

than

handy

thread

The threads

under

of scissors to cut the sewing.

Just use the

cutter. are cut

the

proper

length

for

the next seam.

the normal

of the presser foot

fabrics

need a pair

after you finish

starttng

You can raise it about up position

don't

thread

or

the presser

foot

7

=

Accessory

Storage Box

o

Free-Arm

Sewing:

the Removable

Extension

Table

Your sewing machine can do free arm This feature makes sewing easy for:

To remove:

To Remove

the Extension

(for free-arm 1.

The

lid

of the

open toward

accessory

storage

box

lifts

you,

Grip

sewing.

TabLe

sewing)

the table

with

your

index

finger

and thumb,

as shown.

2_

Pull gently

toward

you, J

Sewing

accessories

are conveniently

located

The extension

table will

snap out.

Bar tacking

m the box,

and

To Attach: Extension

To Attach

the Extension

(for flat-bed

8

Fit the tabs into

2.

With

your

thumb

TabJe

the slot, as shown. and index

finger,

gently

on

made garments to around the needle.

table

sewing)

t.

to reinforce

waistlines

snap in.

pockets,

plackets

ready-made

or home-

avoid

bunching

fabric

J

* Stitchingsleeves, wmstbands, pant_egs, oranycirculargarment area.

Darning

socks

or mending

or areas of wear in children's

knees,

e_bows,

clothes.

*

Sawing etc.

buttons

on sleeves,

waistbands,

__o

: c:,:.::_::_:-i

_:/ ::::

::=,,--:-:::::!_,:_:;:_>:

¸, .::_:-:

:_

_ :_:

:_:.

;i::iKnow What the Presser Feet Will Do o

Check Your

Presser Foot

o

The Presser feet are an important what

each foot

does in order

Your

presser foot

snaps on the foot tf you

feature

to use them

of this machine,

is held in place by a Foot holder,

need to remove

which

or attach

is seldom the foot

To Remove:

You

need to know

effectively.

Change the Presser Foot

Use the Stitch

Holder,

Each presser foot

correct

Pattern

presser Chart

foot

and the

for

the

detailed

stitch

you

directions

wish for

to

sewing

sew. with

Consult

the

the various

presser feet.

merely

removed. holder,

here is what

you do:

To Attach:

To Snap Off: f Snap-on button

\

k__.

holder screw

, J

To Remove: Turn

the

screw

the machine. driver.

To Attach: toward Use the

the

back

large

of

1.

screw

To Snap Off the Presser Foot:

Match

the

holder

with

the presser 2.

Fit

the

hole the

in

the

threaded

foot hole

bar. foot

holder

screw

into

the hole.

3.

10

1.

in

Tighten the screw by turning it toward you.

Raise toward

the

needle

bar

to

its highest

position

by turning

the hand

wheel

you.

2,

Raise the presser foot.

3.

Press the snap-on button foot will drop off.

on the back of the foot holder.

The presser

•

Presser Foot Types Strmght f

Zigzag Foot

A:

Use this

foot

for

both

Zigzag toot

straight

and

H:

zigzag

Zigzag stitching Bar tacking Button

sewing

Rick-rack

Place the presser

foot

zontal

pin

on

the

under

the

groove

so the horifoot of

lies the

iust foot

holder, 2.

Lower

the presser

foot

lock the presser foot

holder

to

in place.

If

you

presser press foot

do

not

foot

snap

down holder

hear

on firmly

m place,

the

presser

until

stretch

hemming

you

stitching

Topstitching Straight

stitching

only.

(see page 2__7),

{see page 2_88),

stretch

(see page 29).

(see page 35), {see page 36),

(see page 3__7), (see page 38),

Lace work

(see page 40),

Two-point

shell stitching

(see page 44), Smocking

the

for straight

needle position

Straight

toot

(see page 37),

Stretch

NOTE:

Uses:

exclusively

Straight

(see page 3__5),

zigzag

Overcast Blind

(see page 3_44),

stitch stretch

Three-step Serging

t.

(see page 3_0),

(see page 32),

Overcasting

To Snap On the Presser Foot:

Use this foot using center

stitching.

Uses:

Foot

Fagoting

(see page 455), patching

(see page 45__),

(see page 46),

Herring

bone

Elastic

stretch

Box stitching

stretch

(see page 4_6),

(see page 47), (see page 47).

hear the snap.

11

i!ii¸ililiiii!i!i!il !iiiii !!iiiiiiiiiiiiii ¸,¸iilill ii!ilili! i! _/:KnowWilatthe

Preset

Feet Will: Do

(Continued)

o Presser Foot Types (Continued) Sliding ButtonhoJe Foot

Zipper Foot

Satin Stitch Foot

(-

Sliding

buttonhole

toot

_

E:

Zipper

foot

F:

stitch

foot

J

Use this foot for buttonholes of built in system, It is marked to measure your buttonholes accurately.

This foot

Uses:

Uses:

Buttonhole

making (see page 40).

can be set to sew on each side of

your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the zipper and keep the seam straight.

Zipper application {see page 4_2_2),

Use this transparent outlining applique, Usesz

Satin

stitch

Applique

foot for satin stitch and

(see page 31), (see page 32),

Monogramming Shell

12

Satin

stitching

(see page 33), (see page 43).

_,_----dfm===_

,M--,

_t

Your

choice

In your

of needle

and thread

needle case, you will

depends

find

......

on the fabric

the following

Blue {11) ..........

for stretch

Orange

for lightweight

{11)

Red {14) Purple

..........

(16)

for

.........

..........

for

o

Check

Your

has

a

topstltching

heavy

stitching

weight

weight

and

tabrics

decorative

on these fabrics

needle

thicker {18)

fabrics

medium-heavy

(This

needles:

or medium-heavy

topstitchmg

Green

color-coded

fabrics

for medium

...........

you are sewing.

weight

larger

thread

hole

for

thread,) fabrics

and decorative

top-

on these fabrics

Needle

1,

Look

for barbed

2.

A damaged

needle can cause permanent

and silk-Like

fabrics.

Always

buy

smooth

and consistent

a good

or blunt

quality

point.

thread.

It should

snags or runs

resist

in knits,

tangling

fine silks

and be strong,

in thickness.

13

o

Fabric,

Needle,

Thread

FABRIC

Lightwmght: Batiste0 Dimttyo Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace. Organza, Crepe, Taffeta° Voile, Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percate, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Kmts.

Vinyl Su_tmgs= Lmen, Wool Crepe, Leather Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Demm_ Woot, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel= Gabardine, Velvets, Lea ther Heavy Weight: Coatings, Upholstery Cotton Ducks Heavy Twills, Canvas Decorat=ve top-stitching on all types of fabr=c Stretch Fabric: Polyester Double Kmts, Nyton Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex, Cite Tricot

and Stitch

Length Chart

To Change Your

NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR

THREAD

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A

11-ORANGE

14-RED

14-RED or

16*PURPLE

18-GREEN

t t -B LUE (STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE)

!

RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING

2 (12 stitches inch)

per

50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A

2--2.5 (10-12 stitches per *rich )

50 Mercerized CottOn Mercerized Heavy-Duty Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A

2--3 (8-!0 stitches per Lnch)

Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A

3 (8 stretches per mch)

,6-PURPLE ! Buttonhole 18-GREEN

SIZE

[Use as top

Twist thread

on_y)

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton

Needle

clamp

screw

Flat stale away from you

NOTE :

Raise tion

3--4 (6-8 stitches per inch)

2--2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch)

the by

needle turning

bar to the

its

highest

hand

wheel

screw

by

positoward

you, t.

2.

3.

Loosen

the

toward

you.

Remove insert with

needle

the needle the

new

cfamp

by pulling

needle

into

the flat side away from

the

5.

Tighten box.

the needle

clamp from

screw your

tt

needle

clamp

you.

Push the needle up as tar as it will

screwdriver

turning

tt downward.

4.

large

t4

Needle

go. firmly

accessory

with

the

storage

Prepare the Bobbin o

!.

To Remove

Gently

the Bobbin

push

it towards 2.

Set aside.

3.

Lift

down

from

on the

o

the Machine

bobbin

cover

plate

Wind the Bobbin

and slide Bobbin

you.

out the bobbin,

winding

spindle

Clutch

as shown.

1.

Put

your

spool

of

thread

onto

spool

pin,

with

the

thread

winding

in the direction

sh own.

2.

Pull

the

wtnding

clutch

from

the

machine

to

stop

the

needle

from

moving

while

you

the bobbin.

3o

Draw thread

4.

Place out

away

the

from

spool

threaded

through

bobbin

bobbin

on the

winder

bobbin

tension

winding

disc as shown.

spindle

so that

the thread

comes

on top.

5.

Push the bobbin

6.

Holding

7.

When the

onto

winder

spindle

end of thread,

bobbin

is slightly

to the right

depress the foot filled,

stop

until

it elicks_

control.

the machine

and clip

the thread

coming

from

the bobbim 8.

Slowly

start

the machine

9.

Push the bobbin

10.

Remove

11.

Push in the clutch

wlnder

again and wind spindle

the thread

to the left and clip

until

the bobbtn

stops.

the thread.

the bobbin. for normal

sewing

operation.

15

= f

Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder _ F

® ........................

1,

Put holder

J

the

bobbin so

that

counter-cfockwJse

into the

the thread

(left).

bobbin feeds

"x

®

® 2.

F

Pu_l

about

toward slot

_.

you

4

inches

through

of the

thread tension

3.

Then pull the thread clockwise toward the back of the machine through

the slot

4.

Slide the

it down

bobbin.

Atlow

thread plate.

16

bobbin

pushing

to show

cover

plate while

slightly about above

over

4 inches the

the of

needle

Prepare Your Top Thread Thread Your Needle f

k.,

Raise take-up

lever to its highest

Raise presser foot Place spool

The numbered

steps above follow

the numbers

position

by turning

hand wheel

toward

j

you.

tever.

on spool

pln as shown,

1.

Draw thread

into

thread

2.

While

holding

check

spring

holder.

3_

Firmly

draw

thread

4.

Draw

5.

Thread

then

6.

Thread

needle from

thread

w_th thread

guide using near spool,

both draw

up and through

coming

from

the back

of the spool.

hands. thread

take-up

down

lever from

into

the

tension

right

to left.

area

and then

around

the

on the illustrations.

Dotted

lines

show

places

loops and then ts pulled

tight.

where

the

thread

down

and slip It through

the thread

guide.

thread

NOTE:

You

is slipped

may want

into

front

needle bar thread

guide.

to back.

to cut the end of thread

with

sharp scissors for easier needle

threading.

17

:ii::iPr_p_ _ou_::TOp Th:readii_(cOntinued ): = Pick Up Your

Bobbin Thread

f

,j ,,

1.

Rinse needle and

presser thread rotate

foot loosely

turn.

J

Hold

in left hand

handwheel

you one complete

18

_ever.

toward

J

2.

Bring top

bobbin

th read,

thread

up by pulling

3.

Pull both

threads

under

and to the

back of the presser foot, leaving to 6 inches of thread clear.

4

Adjust

the Top Thread

Tens=on Choose the Correct

Top

side

ol

The best tension

labrlc Setting

mark

Tensmn:

will

depend

on;

the stiffness

and thtckness

the number

of fabric

of the fabric

layers

the type of stitch

ll_read

The lop thread _s too t_ght

The top thread _s too loose_

Tighlen

" _w-

Top s_de

Top

stde

ol fabric

For Straight The

Stitch

_deal straight

fabric, If you

as shown look

gaps, that When

ot

stitch

at the

each stttch

adjusting

will

have threads

above, magnified stttch,

top thread

between

the

two

layers

of

The top thread appears on the underside ot the tabr_c.

to show detail.

front

is smooth

locked

and back,

you

wilt

notice

that

there

are no

the higher

the number,

the tighter

The

bobbin

appears

thread

on

upper sur|ace fabric_

the the

ol

,G

and even.

tension,

la

the top

thread.

k_

,

Tension The bottom

top

Tension

Is too loose: thread ot the

ot the stitch

will

through

the

The

bobbin

The bottom

side

the

top

shows

fabnc.

_stoo

feet bumpy.

the stitch

thread

will

of the fabric. will

,,

J

t_ght: come The top

through side of

feel bumpy.

19

:_Stitch Selector For Zigzag Stitch In the correct of

fabric

below

zigzag

and the

top

for the correct

stitch,

the

threads

bobbin will

appearance.

show

threads

will

siightly

To match

not show on the top side on the

bottom

this appearance,

adjust

side. your

See top

tensi on.

Top tension

Top tension

Too Tight

Too Loose

Just Right

iiiiii!!i!i!

Top stde of Fabric

Top side of Fabric

Top side of Fabric

Red indicator .........

The stitch Simply

turn

on

stitch

the

stitch

length

NOTE:

Stitch

i!ii iiiii i !il iii iiii iii!i Bottom

side of Fabric

Too Tigh t: --

2O

Corner ot each zigzag will pull together on the top side of fabrics.

Bottom side of Fabric

Bottom side of Fabric

Too Loose:

Just Right: Mimmize the amount of top thread vtsibfe on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side. Results vary with _abrlc, thread and sewing conditions,

The top thread will loop through bottom s_de of tabrtc and will be pulled almost together.

selector this

control control

indicator control

determines until

the

panel.

the stitch

desired

stitch

The bottom

is set at the stretch

is indicated

row

stitch

J

you select. of stitches

by the

red indicator

is selected

when

the

position,

To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of fabric when selecting a stitch. patterns

are color-coded

to recommend

setting

zones

control.

ZONES Orange Green

........ ..........

Straight,

Zigzag

Geometric

and Utility

Decorative

Blue ..........

Buiit4n

Buttonhole

Yellow

Stretch

Stitches

........

Stitches

Stitches Making

at the stitch

length

Stitch Width Control

V

Stitch

....Adjusting

Length Control

V Length

Widtl_

Stretch

SIIlch ,,)

.........J

The width

stitch

of the stitch

The higher stitch.

width

control

regulates

the

you select.

the number,

Stretch Stitch Balance

the wider

the

The stitch

length

length

of stitch,

stitches

setting.

The higher

control

regulates

the

and also has a stretch

the number,

the

longer

the

4-

<

tn stretch

V

adjuster

h

may

0 means no feed.

controt NOTE:

Stretch

at Stretch

Stitches,

you

buttonhole you

lengh

this

Stitch.

When

that

set

Smocking stretch select

(blue),

built4n make

at

'%"

When sewing

need

to

and

stitch

a neutral "--",

or

some fabrics,

adjust

the stitches

m

this

you

control

for appearance

to

sake.

like the illustrations the

the

left,

adjust

toward

"'--"

until

center

design.

the

design

right

control

"Stretch

be

If destgn seems open

the

appears

hand toward

design

to

control looks

be closed

illustrations, "+"

until

slightly like

turn stitching

the

as in the is as

you desire.

Stitch"Study

the

and

blue

this

control.

orange, sections

stitch

length

the

the stitch

yellow around

These

recommended

to

(between

the stretch

to

tf

sure

do not set the stitch

control

usually

position}. balance

seiect

sewing,

position

stitch.

To

stitch should

Riekrack

stretch

are

zones

of

and color-coded

stitches indicator

pictured

on

panei.

21

_: Starting To Sewii:

Now that Reverse

you

are familiar

with the controls

on your

you are ready to start to sew with each time you stt down to sew:

your

1.

be straight,

Inspect

the needle,

for the

fabric

fabrics 2.

It should

and thread

being used.

made of synthetic

Before inches

plamng to the

the

new

blends

materral

rear of the

on

the

properly

set and sharp

the needles

machine,

see that

on to

machine.

more the

threads

your

easily

ends

during

Below

provided

for the machine,

are some good habrts to follow

on the point.

to change

to dull

Hold

and with the accessories

sewing

Do not be afraid

tend

machine.

machine

Kenmore

needle

It should

be the correct

frequently.

Many

than fabrics

made of natural

the

have been drawn

of

threads

the sewing

of the first

size

of the new fibers.

3 or 4 stitches

about

4

of the

seam. ',,,,

j

To reverse

stitch,

trol

sewing.

during

hold

Release to sew forward

down

this

3.

Test

the machine

the machine

con4.

Fabric the

again.

should

right

stitch

on a scrap of fabric

for the length be placed

of stitch under

edge of the material

you plan to use.

and tension

the presser placed

suitable

foot

with

on the 5/8"

The fabric

to your

the bulk

should

be double

thickness.

Adjust

fabric. of the material

seam marking

to

the left of the needle and

on the needle plate when

making

a slmpte

seam.

5_

Run the machine machine will sew.

6.

Fasten each seam by back

7,

Always

8.

Guide that

9,

22

fimsh

sewing

the fabric

the normal

When turning

at a stow

even speed.

tacking

The

more

at the beginning

pressure

gently

with

your

hand

in front

manually,

always

on the foot

control,

the faster

the

point.

of the needle.

Never pull

is altered.

the hand wheel

put

and end of the seam.

each seam w_th the needle at its highest

feeding

you

turn

tt toward

you.

or hold

the fabric

tn such a way

PracticalStitchChart Stitch

Stitch Selection

Foot

and Other Attach.

Stra=ght

STRAIGHT 1 I I I J

Check Chart

I I 1 t

Thread Tension

RICK*RACK STRETCH

Refer

Uses

Orange Zone

0

Regular etc.

Check Chart on p. 14

2 _ 6

Yellow Stretch Stitch Posit}on

o

Use on knits and other for topstitching.

Check Chart on p. 1__44

3 _ 8

Orange Zone

t~5

Check Chart

2 _ 6

Yellow Stretch Stitch Postt_on

2_5

Decorate

2 ~ 6

Orange Zone

2~3

Use for fimshing

searms,

zippers,

topstitching,

to Page

darmng,

27 _ 29, 42 _ 43

good

29

Zipper foot Strmght

Zigzag

on p_14

BLIND HEM STITCH

Stitch Width

2_6

IIi III III Ul

ZIGZAG

Stitch Length

on p. t4

DarMng p_ate STRAIGHT STR ETCH

Needle

Check Chart

stretch

fabrtcs,

Fimsh edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique, monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks.

garments

with

seams.

one

row

or several

30 _ 35 I

35

38

on p. 14

23

Stitch

Selection Stitch

OVERCAST STRETCH

Foot

and Other Attach, Zigzag

%

THREE-STEP ZIGZAG

Zigzag

%

<

SMOCKING STITCH

Zigzag

4 i d

SHELL STITCH

p

% Sat_n

% SERGING

Zigzag

Needle Check Chart

24

2_6

on p. 14

Check Chart

2_6

Stitch

Stitch

I

....

Length

Width

i

uses

3_5

Yellow Stretch Stitch Position

0.5_

tterer to t_age

Use for swlmwear0 ski pants and other garments that require stretch.

1

37

36 I Use for fimshing

seams.

on p.L4

Check Chart on p. 14

2_6

Yellow Stretch Stitch Position

3_5

Use m smocking

Check Chart on p. 14

4_9

Orange Zone

3 _ 5

Finish hems, sleeve and neck opemngs.

Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam, Do shetl tucking on blouses and lingerie.

44

Bfue (11 )

3~6

Yelfow Stretch Stitch Pos_t_on

3~5

Fimsh hems, sleeve and neck openings, Use on nylon tricot and other linger=e to overcast and seam.

DO shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.

37

on p. 14

t I

Tension Thread

or as a decorative

stitch.

45

Stitch

Stitch Selection

Foot

end Other

BOX STITCHING

Zigzag

(_

ELASTIC STR ETC H

%

FAGOTING

Zigzag

STRETCH PATCHING

(\

(q

<> <>

<>

TWO-POINT SHELL ST| TCH IN G L>

r_>

C>

Check Chart

3 _ 8

Stitch Length Orange Zone

Stitch Width

Uses

3_5

Use tot

ovedappmg

seams.

Check Chart on p. 1_4

3 _ 6

Yellow Stretch Stitch Pos_tton

3_5

Check Chart

3 ~ 8

0.5 ~ 2

5

Use for apptymg

elastic.

45

Check Chart on p. 14

2 _ 6

Yellow Stretch Stitch Position

Use for patchwork

Check Chart on p. 14

3 -- 8

Orange Zone

Do shet_ tucking on blouses and fingene.

Th_s stitch can also be used as a single overiock stitch as welt.

i

47

46

Zigzag

%

47

Join two folded edges for decorative open*work appearance.

%

%

Refer to Page

i

on p. 14

Zigzag

L>

Thread Tension

Needle

on p. 14

Zigzag

/

Attach,

quilting.

44

25

: iP'ractic_i:_s_itc_Cha_i:: Stitch

iContinued):

Stitch Selection

HERRING BONE STRETCH

Foot

i;

and OtherAttach, Zigzag

Needle Check Chart

Thread Tension

Stitch Length

Stitch Width

2-6

Yellow Stretch Stitch Position

3_5

Use as hemming stitch cloth end draperms,

2~6

Blue Zone

3~5

Buttonholes:

on p. 14

Uses

Refer to Page

for blankets,

table-

46

/\ BUTTONHOLE

Check Chart

also corded

buttonholes.

40 ~ 41

on p, 1_4

D SATIN

26

STITCH

Satin

Check Chart on p. 14

3_8

0.5--

1

Use for applique work, also as decorative fimsh for placematso blanketso collars, cuffs and pockets.

31

Straight Stitches o

Straight

f

= Use the Seam Guides

Stitch Sat the Machine Stitch

/

w=dth

control 0

I Stitch

Before

sewing

with

foot,

always

set

control

to

the straight the

0 to

stitch

stitch

avoid

breaking

Raise the presser foot,

2.

Rmse

the

3.

Place to

the

stitct! foot

results

foot, wilt

acceptable

but also results.

the

are

straight

edge

a stitching

needle the

Cornering guide guides

the

beginning

and

want

end

of

to reverse to

wtdth,

on the

plate

to help you measure

The lines

the 5/8"

J needle

are 1/8"

and 7/8"

seam

apart,

with

lines marked.

lock the stitch,

the

Rmse the presser

foot

and remove

â&#x20AC;˘

Turn

a Square

Corner

the fabric.

to

its

highest

9.

Cutthe

threads.

posit{on,

H: Straight foot

with

needle

At

seam, you may

8.

t.

Stretch Stitch

sewmg

7.

width

needle.

Best

seam

are engraved

zone

obtained

The

length

control orange

NOTE:

._/

I

Top thread tens|on control 2 to 6

of

the fabric

guide

plate

tine

(5/8"

next

on

is

the most

common).

4.

zigzag

Draw

the

threads

and lower

toward

the presser

the back

foot.

fabric

provide 5.

Press the foot

6.

Hold

the fabnc

guide that

it

along

control

1.

loosely the

To turn

and gently

guide

line,

so

It feeds naturally.

Do

not

pul{

it tight.

force

the fabric

or try

a square corner

Stop

stitching

2.

by

turning

toward

you

when

facing

you

lines

Raise the

guide,

the

fabric

the 5/8" 3.

and

needle

cornermg

to

5/8"

from

the

edge:

Lower st{tching

lower hand

the fabric up

with

the wheel edge the

as shown.

presser

foot

to

the

edge with

foot

and begin

line

and

turn

seam guide. the

presser

m the new direction.

27

'_;_:i':i_:_ii_!::!:!:i:i_;;:;:ii_::;:!i_i:i:!_:_!, :!:i iiii:i:_,_;_:_/i_::: :,i:x _!_!_!'

=

Use the Darning

::!W

â&#x20AC;˘

Plate

Topstltchi

ng Set the Machine

Darning pfate

\

Stitch wsdth control 0

Stitch tength control Orange

top thread tension controt 2 to 6

Here's How

zone

J Sometimes

when

The Darning

you

Plate

covers

To Put on the Darning NOTE.

The

sew,

right

want

to

contro]

the feed dogs so that

the

fabric

yourself.

they do not touch

the fabric.

1.

2.

Plate:

rectangular

needle

you

plate.

m the

In the

darning

Darning pfate,

Plate these

match holes

the holes

are siightty

in the

Stretch Stitch

to the

1.

Position

the darning

2.

Fit

darning

the

5/8" mark. holes.

Use the darning

plate

plate

plate

The feed

in the fotlowing

with

pros

into

dogs witt

the show

needle through

plate

holes

the darning

plate

The Stitch Topstitchmg

ways;

your

Button

28

(see page 2_99), Sewing

(see page 34),

emphasizes

garment

edges flat Darning

and Its Uses

Accent

and

keeps

the

lines

seams

of and

and crisp. suits of

or

blouses

two

rows

topst_tchmg

outer

edges of cuffs,

with

one

around

lapels or collars,

or the

the fabric

edge

Evenly

guide

the fabric

to

topstitchmg

at the

edge of

right

edge H: Straight foot

the pins on the bottom.

the

the

of

the

next

presser

foot.

3_

of center.

the presser foot.

Keep to

4

holes

Lower

produce 5/8"

along this

an even from

the

row

of

edgm

StraightStretch

Darning

Set the Machine

S_t the Machine Stitch

Stitch width control 0

w_dth

control 0 ]

2

/234

3 4

Top thread tansloR

control 2 to6

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

Stitch length control any number (not

necessary

to

adjust)

Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position

2

Here's

1.

2

How

Put

the

darning

plate

on

the

needle

plate

(see page 2__88).

No presser toot

2.

(see

Stretch Stitch 3.

Darning

Remove

plate

presser

page

foot

embroidery

hoops

Draw

the

bobbin

fabric

by holding

one

and

1__00), stretch

stitch

at

with

the

holder between

Stretch

Stitch

hole centered.

thread the

foot

fabric

top

spot

up

through

thread where

Stretch

the

H: Straight foot

and taking you

wish

to

The Stitch

and Its Uses

start darning.

This 4.

Lower

the

presser

bar

and

sew

at

a slow

speed.

5.

Move the fabric

Turn

straight

ed for knits back

you have covered 6_

the

stitch

the

fabric

and forth

the darning half

layer of stttching

turn

slowly

until

area.

stitch

topstitching

and sew antother

over the first

This

is the stitch,

stretch

variation

especially

and stretch can

of

develop-

fabrics.

also

on all fabrics.

be

used

for

|f your

fabric

is thin

use a separate

piece

hote to reinforce

or badly of fabric

damaged, under

the

it.

fabrics

as well.

When you finish plate

and reptace

darning, foot

remove

holder

the darning

and foot.

It works and

and other

well on

curved

seams

garments deal of

that will receive a great strain {ie. children's

on

any

cloth es)o The

stretch

actually

stitch

stretch but

does

as it stitched back

called

stitch},

when

instead

ts and

(sometimes action" give

7.

fabrics

It can be used on

forward NOTE:

was developed

knits,

sewn,

layer.

stitching

to be used on stretch

the

a

so that fabric

not

is being in

a

motion "reverseit will stretches

of breaking, 29

Basic Zigzag Set the Machine

Stitch wtdth control 't

Top thread tension control 3 to 8

i to 5 234

Stitch length control orange Zone

Here°s How

2

There

are many

Consutt Satin

the specific

Stitch

Applique

Stretch Stitch

Monogramming Embroidery ..............

The Stitch The

zigzag

common your for

stttch

sewing

buttons,

_t can

with

trims,

also

of the

buttonholes,

appliques

or as a decorative

used

to

on

stitch hem-

and

darn*

decorate

and cut-out

stitch°

most

stitches

mending be

Button

Sewing

Overcasting

It can be a utility

overcasting,

ing.

30

_s one

and most versatile

machine.

mmg,

J

and its Uses

work

variations

page 31,

Work

Bar Tacking

A: Zigzag foot

ways to sew a ztgzag stitch.

page 3_2, page 32, page 33. page 3_3, page 34,

page 35.

for detaited

directions.

SatinStitch Set the Machine

Zigzag width

:

Stitch width contro! 2 to 5

@ i

Top

thread

tension control

3 to 8

2

3 .

Stitch length control 0.5 to 1

C!ose

to 0

Stretch Stitch F: Satin stitch toot

Pressure dial: The Stitch

....... 4_'

: TF

I or

and Its Uses

The Satin

stitch

used decorat=ve

is a versatile and often stitch,

be used to overcast ample,

......

blankets,

but

a raw edge (for exlinens,

tablecloths

stitch

Once

is especially

How your

machine

of the fabric weight

and napkins), -The Satin

Here's

It can also is set up to stitch,

you are planning

you may want

to use. Too

t_ght

satin

to experiment stitch

on a fragment

may pucker

some light

fabrics.

attractive

in applique.

31

Bar Tacking Set the Machine Stitch

width

Stitch w_dth control 2 to 5

@ _

Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch

control

Top thread tenston control 2 t.o 6

length

0.5 to t

2

Baste

{or

joiner)

applique

Stitch sure Stretch F_

Satin foot

Stitch

sewing

down Pressure dial:

2

into and

or left,

:i

:

=::;;

_ron-on

fabric

on the

fabric.

satin

stitch

making

points

of

pockets

and straps

applique

falls

along

the

lower

the needle

the fabric. the

:!;i

: := :!i :::

Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 2

with

corners,

p_vot

t: :

4

pieces the

needle

3

Th_s stitch

outer

edge of the applique.

foot

32

around the

When

stitch

fuse

2

ts similar and strain

to

is used such on

Raise the presser fabric

to

the right

A:

Zigzag

toot

Stitch

to

short

reinforce

as corners linger_e.

Sew 4 to 6 z_gzag stitches.

Stretch

a very

or

Embroidery

Monogramming

Set the Machine

Set the Machine

Stitch width

Stitcll width control

5

i 2 34

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

Stitch length control 0,5 to "i Here's 1.

2.

Stitch length controt Any number {not necessary to adjust) 2

How

Here's How 1.

Set the same as satin stitch, Back

the

fabric

with

Put

the

plate

paper

or

darning

plate

on the

needle

(see page 28).

2.

Remove

foot

3,

Adjust

the

holder

(see page 10).

4

mterfacing.

Stretch Stitch

3.

Draw with

F'

Satin

stitch

4.

toot

the

letters

tailor's

chalk.

Satin

stitch,

width

as necessary

on

the

No presSer foot

fabric

Stretch

4.

adjusting to

the stitch form

Oarmng plate

each

.

pattern.

5.

Draw

the

with

tailor's

Stretch dery

If using when

paper,

carefully

you have finished

remove sewing.

stitch

width

as desired

on

the

(see page 2I).

Stitch

design

to

fabric

chalk,

the

fabric

hoops

and

between place

embroi_

under

the

needle.

tt 6_

Lower

the

presser

engage the top thread 7,

Holding

the

top

thread

rotate

the

hand

one complete

turn.

hand, you

foot

Put|

the

bobbin

top

thread

lever

to

tension. in your whee|

left

toward

thread

to

through

to the surface

draw

the

of the fabric.

8_

Using the fabric

a medium marked carefully

speed, outline,

stitch guiding

along the

by hand.

33

o Sew a Button Set the Machine

Stitch width control Must be adiu sted _

2

3

4

Top thread tenston control 2 to 6 Stitch length control Any number {not necessary to adiust )

,_,

Use the darning t.

plate for button

Match foot.

the center

Adjust

the stitch

sewmg

of the button

To

(see page 28).

holes

to the center

of the slot on the presser

4 21

Stretch Stitch

3.

Lower Turn

the foot the

hand

width to hold wheel

button.

A:

34

Zigzag toot Darning pta

4.

Stitch

several times.

so that

needle wilt drop

the button by

hand

so

in each hole.

needle

threads

enter

leaving

a 8"

shank,

cut

the

tail.

Bring

through

the

hole

it around

the

bottom

side

needle

thread

down

m the

button

and wind

Draw will

J

the

the

shank.

in place. that

,.....................

strengthen

either

hole of the

the

and knot,

thread

to

the

Overcasting

0

Stitch

Rick-Rack

f

Stretch Set the Machine

Set the Machine

Stitch width control 2 to 5 2 3 -

Stitch wrdth control 3 to 5

@ I234

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

Top thread tension control

3

to 8

Stitch length control zone

orange k,, ¸

Helpful Start raw right up Stretch Stitch

Hints about

of your

1/8"

seam.

inside If you

at the edge, the fabric and

The Stitch

position

overcasting corner

Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch

the

stitches

will

will

and Its Uses

Sew on stretch

the

you might

start bunch

This 4

become

stitch

top stitch

fabrics in any area that

use a zigzag stitch. can be used as a decorative as well.

tangled, Stretch Stitch A:

A: Zigzagtoot

The Stitch Thts

and Its Uses

z_gzag variation

garment

Zigzag toot

is very

construction

raw edges ot any sewing

and

useful

m

=n finishing

project.

35

o Three-Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 "1234

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

Stitch length control 0.5 to 'l

Seam Fimshtng Place so that the right Stretch

A:

Stitch

Zigzag foot

_ .......

J

The Stitch

and Its Uses

The three-step zigzag is a combination ztgzag and straight stitch. You may use the

three-step

would has flatter

zigzag everywhere

use the more

basic

strength,

than a regular

The three-step ly useful

zigzag elasticity,

mending

--

sewing

is

zigzag.

z_gzag stitch

patches

=sespecial*

smoothly

securely.

36

It

and

for:

--

--

you

stitch.

repairing

straight

finishing

seams.

tears.

and

Mending

(Overcasting)

the fabric

under

the edge witl

the presser foot be slightly

hand side of the presser work

so

the

right

inside foot.

Guide

the

stitches

fall at the edge of the fabric.

hand

Posmon that

the tear

the stitching

under

the

will catch

needle both

so

sides.

o f

Overcast

Stretch

o

Stitching

Serging

or Pine Leaf Stretch

Stitching

Set the Machine

Set the Machine

Stitch width control 3 to 5

Stitch width controI 3 to 5

-23

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

Top thread tenslon control 3 to 6

Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch pos_tlon 2

Place

the

LEFT

Stitch

Stitch

A;

...................................

The Stitch

J

and Its Uses

The

seam

one

operation,

It

you

are

sw_mwear,

and other stretch.

the

!ust short

of the outsnde

Or, place

your

then

fabric

to

Place

fabnc thin

foot

ts formed

and

sewing

a

seam

NOTE :

a 5/8"

allowance

fin=shed

m

that

sM pants require

edges of older

overcast

to

Use

a blue

fabric

under

the

the

stitches

presser

are made

edge.

to ailow

further

stretch

needle,

which

prevents

skipped

fabric

effectively stitches,

When

using

fabnc,

use a blue

stretch

fabric

needle

effectwely

garments

prevent

raveling, NOTE:

can be used when

garments

be

the

so that

over the edge,

the fabric

A: Zigzag foot

Raw or worn can

This stitch can be used for seam with an overcast fimsh.

maMng

edge of

after,

Zigzag toot

%

raw

J

Here's How

of the needle as shown.

so the needle pierces

seam,

.......

pos|t_on

Here's How

the

Stretch

Stitch length control yel!ow stretch stitch

The Stitch

and Its Uses

Use

stitch

narrow

this

heavyweight want

when

seam that

press open seams on

for making

you

flat. kmts

you do not

want

a

need

to

which prevents

stitches.

it _s _deal for 1/4" or on medium to

woven

a narrow

skipped

kmt stretch

fabrics

seam,

elastic

swim

It

where

you

Js also great

wear,

37

Set the Machine Stitch w_dth contro! 2 to 3 _

2

1/4"

3 4

L_ght Weight Fabric

Top thread tension contro_ 2 to 6

Stitch length control orange zone

Heavy Weight Fabric

2

Stretch Stitch

A: Zigzag foot

1/4"

1,

Finish

the raw edge of your

2.

Measure,

turn

NOTE.

For light

3.

the

Fotd

up your wmght

material

hem any way you desire.

(see overcasting

page 3.5).

hem and pin. fabrics,

(bottom

you side

may need a double out)

on

the

fold,

edge to

be stitched,

as shown,

leaving

t/4"

of

the

finished

on extended

edge.

hem

edge

showing.

4.

5.

38

Place

garment

stitch

should

under

After

hemming,

just catch

presser

foot

the fold

press both

in such a manner

that

straight

stitches

will

be sewn

The zigzag

of the garment.

sides of the finished

hem.

The top s_de of the garment

will

show only

the blind

stitches.

Set

the

Machine

Stitch width control _

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

2 2

to 3

3 4

Stitch length control 'l

I ::_:

:::;============================

_i_:!_:_!i!ii_i!ii_!iiil;!iiii_i_i_!_'_!i i_iill ilii:il _ili_!iiiii!!ii!_iiii!ii_!_'!'_ _

i:i!ili!

Stretch

Lace A: Zigzag toot

,J

Stitch

to

adds

blouses

a fanciful, and

feminine

lingerie.

and

pillows

become

when

trimmed

with

Turn

raw edge of fabric

5/8"=

Place

stttch

using stretch

Trim

lace

excess fabric

touch

Table more

linens elegant

lace. under

underneath blind

at least and

top-

hem stitch.

close to stitching.

39

Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5

i!

141

i

llfl

I

III

i

g7

_

!!i i ii iiiiiiiiiiiill

Stitch length control Blue zone F:_ 2

I3

1. a. Caretulfy length

on your

b, Change Top thread tension

0 L_'_i4

mark

the

buttonhole

garment,

to the sliding

c.

Stretch Stitch Sliding buttonhole

Insert foot

loot

the

so that slider

buttonhole

foot.

control 2 to 6

2_ a. Move

the

ing running

garment the

under

buttonhole

toward

top

mark

w_th

the

e.

NOTE:

Lower

the Stitch

Depending

upon

own

preference

may

alter

density

Density your

m

the

within

fabric

blue

For

tess

toward 2.

For

density,

density,

turn

Coarse shtches lot

heavy

iabr_cs

dial. the

dial

@

dial

Fine st{lobes

"1 ".

more

toward

stitch buttonhole

turn

Q

you

buttonhole the

range on the stitch length 1.

or your

buttonholes,

the

tot

"0":

lighl

fabrics

NOTE.

Always

make

tonhole

on a scrap fabric

plan

use to

to

suitable

40

stitch

a practice find length.

butyou

the more Stre_,ch S_,itch

mark

mark

(8). on

the

on your

the presser foot.

The

markings

are engraved Adjusting

(C) on the

markings

the top

you

garment,

mark.

you,

up

foot

the

the

(A) toward

meets the start

b. Line

with

slider

on

the

slider

m centimeters,

3.

a. Set the stitch

selector

b. Sew forward

until

front

marking

of

at

I'l

you reach your

hole. c. Stop

sewing

the

button-

at the left stitch.

4, a,Setthestitchselector at . b.Sew4 to6 stMtches, c. Stopsewing attherightstitch.

F! 5. a, Setthestitchselector at I_1 b, Sewuntilyoureach thebackof thebuttonhole. c. Stopsewing attherightstitch.

t_

6.

a, Set the stitch

selector

at

1,1

7_

Remove hole

b, Sew 4 to 6 stttches.

opener c. Stop sewing

at the left

stitch.

the

open

fabric with

in your

the

and

cut

the

buttonhole

accessory

storage

box.

NOTE: When sliding

sewing

at the edge of fabric,

buttonhole

and sew in reverse

foot { _-->

set

as illustrated _->_]-_

),

41

Fabric

Preparation:

Set the Machine

Put the top sides of the fabric and

sew

opening.

to

the

Use the

end

of

reverse

Stitch width control 0

together

the

zipper

to lock

2

/Zipper

3

_eeth Zipper

the

tape

stitches.

Sew length at "3".

the

zipper

at "4"

opening and top

with

stitch

thread

tension Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 2

2

To Sew: Reset stitch length at 2 and top thread tension at 2 to 6.

Fold back the left seam allowance asshown.

i parting

Top side o! fabric 2.

Stretch Stitch

Turn under the right seam allowance to form a 1/8" fold.

4.

5.

3.

fOOt

To attach

the zipper

6.

Lower

foot

To sew on the attach

on the zipper

The pin on the iett hand side

o

the

zipper,

bar to the right

pins

foot.

To sew on the right attach

presser

on the zipper

42

left side of the

the presser

foot.

side of the zipper, bar to the

left pins

zipper

the

bottom tape.

Sew

the

slider Lower

through

of

on the

fold

tape to the point

top

the zipper

needle pierces

and the zipper

fabric o

the

at the

zipper

Place the zipper teeth next to the 1/8" fold and pin in place,

presser bar to the right foot.

so that

7.

foot:

the

pros on the zipper

side

E: Zipper

Top edge of fabric

Attach

the fold

and

the

where the

begins. the

needle

to

hold

and raise the presser foot,

the

offabric ::::: i':: 8. Openthez_pper.

10.Closethe zipperand turn the 11.Removethe zipper foot and attachthepresser barto theleft fabrictopsideup, 9. Lowerthepresser tootandstitch pins on the zipper foot, therestoftheseam.

12.

Stitch tom

I3.

across

and

below

the

bot-

continue

to

of the zipper,

Turn

the

corner

guide

the

teeth,

as shown.

Stitch

through

zipper

foot

14.

among the

the

fabric

zipper

and

2" from

the top

of the

zipper, 15,

Lower

the

needle

into

the

fabnc

and raise the presser foot. t6,

and

Stop about

Remove

the

basting

stitches

and

open the z_pper. t7,

Lower

the foot

of the

seam, Make sure the'_old

and stitch

the rest is

even,

tape.

43

_i:ii:: TwO-Point Shell Stitching

Set the Machine Stitch width

Top thread tension control 4 to 9

Stitch length control orange ,zone

J

Here's I.

How

For best effect: set the desire.

stitch

you may Stitch

allow fabric 2.

The Stitch

and Its Uses

The Shell blind

rows of tucks.

Shell

Stitch

hem

shell stitching

stitching

can

be

by sewing

fabric.

a

Several

are called

used

shell

to

finish

to

create

hems, sleeve and neck openings.

Shell

tucking

scalloped lingerie.

44

can

tucks

be used on

blouses

and

the

slightly.

needle folded

rows

to

Stretch Stitch

just

edge of the

of shell stitches,

5/8"

Stitch length control orange zone 2

as you

A:

when it zigzags.

space the rows

is formed

over folded

If yOU sew

tension

the

clear the

F_ Satin stitch foot

length

need to tighten

top thread Stretch

Top thread tension control 3 to 8

apart,

You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or soft silky wovens in any direction,

k_

Zigzag

foot

J

This

stitch

single

overlock

can

also

stitch

be as wetl.

used

as a

N:TNEi:sTI Stretch Patching

Smocking

Sgt the Machine

Set the Machine

Stitch width control 3 to 5 i

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

2

Stitch width control

Ii

5

3, I

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch

¢-

-.

Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch pOSition

positton

2 The Stitch For

and Its Uses

patching

worn

out

elbows

or

knees.

4 Stretch

Stitch

Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag toot With

the

strmght

stttch

length

stitching

at

lines

"'4",

3/8"

sew apart

across the area to be smocked.

Knot the

the threads bobbin

gathers the

evenly.

other

stitch

along

threads end.

between

Secure Sew

Loosen tension

the to

Pull the

the threads the

the gathering

Pull out the gathenng NOTE:

one edge.

and distribute

at

decorative stitches.

stitches. top make

thread gathenng

easier.

45

:::Eagoting Stitch !,::

Herring

Set the Machine

Bone Stretch:

Set the Machine

Stitch width

Stitch width control 5 i

Top thread tension control 3 to 8

2

3_

Top thread tension control 2 to 6

Stitch length control 0,5 to 2

posl

Here's How !,

Fold

under

Here's How

edge 5/8"

Piace

Stretch Stitch

Pin

the

tear-away 3.

Sew so the

toot

two

edges

backing

slowly, needle

I/8"

guiding catches

edge on each side.

to

paper

or

apart.

Use fabric

this

appearance

46

and Its Uses stitch

to

to

create

join

the

Stretch Stitch

fabrtc

the folded A:

Zigzag

The Stitch two

an

and add design

pieces

open interest,

fabric

top

from

Trim

close to stitching_

prevent

foot

J

The Stitch

the

3/8"

side up,

and sew

the edge,

4 2.

Zigzag

each fabric

t_on

and press.

4

A:

Stitch Iength control yeIIow stretch stitch

of

work

Use

and Its Uses

as hemming

tablecloth

stitch

and draperies.

for

blankets,

raveling.

The stitch

wilt

EtasticStretchStitch

Box Stitching

Set the Machine

Set the Machine Stitch

Stitch width control 3 to 5

width

1

control

Top thread tension control 3 to 6

2

3_

3 to 5

Top thread tension control 3 to 8

Stitch length controt yellow stretch stitch postflOl]

Stitch length control orange Use this

stitch

to

iota

heavy

weight

interlining.

Stretch

Stretch

Overlap

two

use this

stitch

raw

edges

to join

together

and

them.

Stitch

Stitch

A: Zigzag toot

A: Zigzag toot

Choose

this

stitch

to attach

elastic

to

garments.

1.

2.

Marl{

the elastic

quarters

the

center

these

center

back and side seams.

Place

the

middle

ot

the

the

center

of

the

under

to

into

match

foot

and stitch

sure

the

elastic

into place, is evenly

and front,

elastic presser making distri-

buted.

47

PROBLEM

PROBABLE Incorrect

Irregular

Breaking

Bunching

Puckering

48

Stitches

Needle

of Thread

CAUSE

CORRECTION

skze needle.

Improper threading.

Loose upper thread tension.

Pulling fabric.

Loose presser foot.

Unevenly wound bobbin.

Nicks or burrs at hote of needle plate, Pulling fabric.

Incorrect s_ze needle.

Choose correct size needle Rethread machine.

tor thread

Tighten upper thread tension.

Do not pull fabric; guide _t gently.

Reset presser foot.

Rewind bobbin.

Replace

needle plate,

or polish

off

burrs

Do not pull fabric; guide _t gently.

Choose correct s_ze needle for thread Reset needle.

Incorrect setting of needle.

Loose presser foot.

and fabrfc.

completely.

and fabric.

Reset presser fool

Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam.

When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are formed.

Incorrect

Reset thread

thread

tension.

Using two different sizes or kinds Bent or blunt needle.

Loose presser foot.

Fabric too sheer or too soft,

of thread.

tension.

Upper thread and bobbin thread Insert new needle.

Reset presser foot.

Use underlay of t_ssue paper.

should

be same s_ze and kind.

PROBLEM

Skipping

Breaking

PROBABLE

Fabric

Machine

Loosen

Improper bobbin threading.

Lint m bobbin holder or hook

Thread

plate.

race,

Knocking

No_se

Thread caught Lint tn bobbin

_n hook race. holder or hook

thread

Replace

needle plate,

Check bobbin Clean bobbin

race.

and fabnc.

tension.

or polish

threading, holder and hook

Remove darning plate.

Adjust Stitch Length Control.

Place both threads back under to stitch.

Push in the clutch.

Darning plate m place.

Stitch Length set at 0.

Thread knotted under fabric.

Push-pull clutch ts disengaged.

not Mowng

upper

Start to stitch at a medium speed.

Rethread machine.

Loosen upper thread tension, Choose correct size needle for thread insert new needle.

Starting to stitch too fast. lmproper threading.

Tight upper thread tension. incorrect size needle.

Thread

Bobbin

Jamming

Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle.

Reset needle.

tncorrec[ settmg of needle.

Tight upper thread tension.

Sharp eye in needle.

Nicks or burrs at hole oi needle

Breaking

CORRECTION

Incorrect s_ze needle, Bent or blunt needle,

Stitches

Upper

CAUSE

off

and fabric.

burrs

completely.

race.

presser foot

before

beginning

Disassemble and clean hook race.

Clean bobbin holder and hook race.

49

::::Clean the:Bobbin: Holder i:: ;< :::

To

::::

': i:::::

insure

essential

that

or knock

!

Unplug

i

i

the machine

â&#x20AC;˘: :

your

parts

The bobbin

::

:

machine

operates

at

its best,

you

need

to

keep

the

clean at all times.

area can attract

loudly

if a thread

dust and tint.

Your

machine

can become

sluggish

is caught.

I

and open

the

face cover.

CAUTI

0 N!

The

light

bulb

HOT. fingers handle

2.

Push bulb

the

will

Protect

bulb

when

be your

up

Follow

and

counter-clockwise

cover plate

you

it.

turn

the

1.

Turn

off

2.

Remove firmly

3.

Put the new up and turning

5O

bulb

in by pushing

tt clockwise.

the power

4. or unplug

5. the bobbin

pulling

_t 3.

Remove

cover plate

_t toward

the bobbin.

you.

by

Brush

or vacuum the dust and lint

out of the bobbin

the

machine.

to remove

ft.

these directions:

Replace

the bobbin.

holder.

6,

Slide on the bobbin pushing

cover plate by

it mto the grooves.

:OR ,YOU R: MACHINE;:: Oiling the Machine

Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs f

Open face cover two

drops

Remove

1,

Unplug

the

machine

the presser foot 2_

Remove

3.

Remove

the

remove

bobbin

cover

5.

Take

out

bobbin

and needle,

the screw

of the needle

and

the

holder

bobbin.

Lift

and remove

plate

and oil POints

as shown

below

at least once

a year, One or

of oil is sufficient.

excess oil,

otherwise

it may stain

fabrics.

up the it,

plate.

on the left s=de

with

the large screw

driver.

4,

Remove

the needle

In

plate.

case

machine

extended

time,

is not oil

it

Use good

quality

No other

oiling is required

Above require

points oiling

sewing

are

used

before

only

machine

area

for

an

sewing. oil,

which

on this machine.

Red marks

J 6.

Use

the

feed

dogs,

holder. cloth,

lint

brush

hook Also

to

race use

clean

the

and bobbin a

soft,

dry

v

Line

up the

the

bobbin

next

to

j

red holder

the

race, as shown

marks

and place

so the knob

stopper

in the

fits

hook

above.

51

PARTS LIST

1

2

3

4

7

8

9

lO

14

15

/ /

52

5

6

12

16

All

parts

listed

herein

may

be ordered

from

any Sears Roebuck

and Co. store

Ref, No.

or service center.

WHEN ORDERING INFORMATION: 1.

2.

3.

4.

REPAIR

PARTS,

handling.

to

GIVE THE

FOLLOWING

PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM

If the parts you need are not stocked transmitted

ALWAYS

a

Sears

Repair

locally,

Parts

your

Distribution

order

will Center

Part No.

1

*20-6868

2

102403202

Spool

3

813404013

No.

11 Stretch

fabric

needles

6551

No.

11 Single

needles

(ORG)

6552

No,

14 Single

needles

(RED)

6553

No,

16 Single

needles

(PUR)

6554

No.

18 Single

needles

(GRN}

be electronically for

expedited

Description

Bobbin

box with pin felt

4

652806003

Straight

5

685502008

Zigzag foot

6

825813005

Sliding

7

823803006

Zipper

8

822804118

Satin

9

*6864

10

6797

11

820832005

12 13

41669 802424004

14

6830

15

*6889

16

652802OO9

* These items instructions

are not furnished

(BLU)

foot

buttonhole

foot

foot stitch

Needle L}ght

10 bobmes

foot

threader bulb

Large screw driver Small Lint

screw driver brush

Buttonhole

opener

Oil and lint

brush

Darning

with

plate

the machine,

but

may be ordered

per

above,

53

INDEX A

H

Accessory storage box ...............

Appliqueing ....................

2, 8 23, 32

Hand wheel ....................

Herring bone stretch ..............

Hook race .....................

3, 18 26, 46 51

B Bar tacking ....................

Base .............................

Basic zigzag .....................

Blind hemming ...............

Bobbin .............

4, 15_16, Bobbin holder ..............

Bobbin thread ...................

Bobbin winding ..................

Bobbin winding spindle .............

Box stitching ...................

Buttonhole .................

Buttonhole opener ..........

4, Button sewing ..................

C Cabinet ..........................

Changing needle ...................

Changing presser foot .............

Cleaning hook race and feed dogs Cornering guide ..................

23, 32 2 23, 30 23, 38_39 50, 52_53 16, 50"_51 18_-t9 15 2, 15 25, 47 26, 40_4!

41,52"_53 23, 34

.......

2 14 t0_11 51 27

D Darning ......................

Darning plate ......

4, 28, 29, 33_34,

23, 29 52_53

E Elastic stretch ..................

Embroidery ....................

Extension table ...................

25, 47 23, 33 2, 8

F Fabric, needle, thread and stitch length chart ....................

Face cover plate .............

Fagoting ........................

Feed dogs ........................

Foot control .....................

Free arm sewing ..................

54

14 2, 6, 50"-51 25, 46 5t 3, 5 8_9

L Lace work ......................

Large screw driver ..............

Light and power switch ..............

Light bulb ..................

Lint brush ...................

39 4, 52_53 3, 5 50, 52"_53 4, 52_53

M Monogramming

.................

23, 33

N Needle Needle Needle Needle, Needle

................. clamp .................... plate ..................... thread and fabric chart threading ................

13_14,

.........

52_53 3, 14 2, 16 14 17_18

O Oiling ..........................

Overcasting stitch ..................

Overcast stretch .................

51 35 24, 37

P Parts list

......................

52"--53

Performance problems .............

Plug connector ....................

Portable case ......................

48"_49 3, 5 2

Power switch .....................

Practical stitch chart ..............

Pressure control dial .................

3, 5 23_26 6

Presser foot ..................

Presser foot lever ..................

Push-pull clutch ..................

3, I0_12 3, 7 3, 15

R Reverse stitch control ...........

Rick-rack stretch stitching ..........

2, 22, 27 23, 35

S Satin stitch foot .................... .........

4, 12, 24, 26, 31"_33, 44, 52_53 Satin stitching .................

26, 31 Seam guides ....................

27 Serging .......................

24, 37 Serging or pine leaf stretch ..........

24, 37 Sewing light .......................

5 Shell stitching ..................

24, 44 Sliding buttonhole foot .............. ...............

4, 12, 26, 40_41,52_53 Small screw driver .............

4, 52_53 Smocking .....................

24, 45 Snap-on button ..................

3, t0 Spool pin felt ...............

4, 7, 52_53 Spool pins .......................

2, 7 Stitch length control ..............

2, 21 Stitch selector ..................

3, 20 Stitch width control ...............

2, 21 Straight stitching .............

23, 27_29 Straight stitch foot.,, 4, 11, 23, 27_29, 52_53 Straight stretch stitching ...........

23, 29 Stretch patching .................

25, 45 Stretch stitch adjuster ..............

3, 21 T Take-up lever ....................

Thread cutter .....................

Thread guide ..................

Three-step zigzag ................

Topstitching ...................

Top thread ....................

Top thread tension ...............

Top thread tension control ........

Turning a square corner ..............

Two-point shell stitching ...........

2, 17 2, 7 2_3, 17 24, 36 23, 28 17_20 19_20 2, 19_20 27 25, 44

Z Zigzag â&#x20AC;˘ _, Zigzag Zigzag Zipper Zipper

foot .........................

1t, 23"-26, 30, 32, 34_39, 44"_47, 52"53 stitching ..............

23, 30_35 overcasting ..................

35 application ............

23, 42_43 foot .......

4, 12, 23, 42"43, 52_53

WARRANTY

() (_

FULL

25-YEAR

WARRANTY

For 25 years from in the mechanical

the

ON SEWING

date of purchase,

components

MACHINE

Sears will,

of the sewing

_

HEAD

free of charge,

machine

repair

defects

in material

or workmanship

which

appear

head.

#

FULL _)

For

TWO YEAR two

years

appear m the speed control.

WARRANTY

from

the

electrical

ON ELECTRICAL

date

of

equipment

purchase, of

EQUIPMENT

Sears wiIt,

the

sewing

free of

machine,

OF SEWING charge,

including

repair

MACHINE defects

electronic

in materml

components,

or workmanship

motor,

w_rmg,

which

switch

and

#

FULL

90-DAY

#

For

_)

necessary

90

days

WAR RANTY from

the

ON ALL

date

of

PARTS

AND

purchase,

Sears will,

of the sewing

machine,

for proper

operation

SERVICE

IS AVAILABLE

MECHANICAL free of except

ADJUSTMENTS

charge, for normal

replace

any parts

and prowde

mechanical

service

maintenance.

# #

#

WARRANTY {_

CENTER!DEPARTMENT

_) #

This warranty

_)

IN THE

gwes you specific

BY

UNITED

RETURNING

THE

SEWING

legal r_ghts, and you may a_so have other

SEARS,

MACHINE

TO THE

rights whmh

vary from

NEAREST

SEARS

SERVICE

â&#x201A;¬

STATES.

ROEBUCK

AND

CO., D/8t7

WA, Hoffman

Estates,

state to state_

IL 60179

{) #

SEWING MACHINE Now

that

or service,

you

have purchased

simply

contact

your

your

Kenmore

nearest

Sewing

Sears Service

Machine, Center.

should

a need ever exist for repair

Be sure to provide

all pertinent

facts

parts when

you call or visit,

:l'he model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature

plate on the back of

your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.

WHEN ORDERING

REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS

*MODEL

*NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION

NUMBER

if the

parts you

Repair

Parts Distribution

need

are not Center

SEARS,

S-385

stocked

locally,

GIVE THE FOLLOWING

your

order

wil!

INFORMATION:

be electronically

transmitted

to a Sears

for handling.

ROEBUCK

AND

CO,, Chicago,

IL60684

Printed in Taiwan

U.S.A.

Part No, 652800306