Kenmore 1600 sewing machine user manual

55039

I N.S

T

R U C

T

! O

N S

MODEL 68/95/96/1600/1650/1651/1652/1654/1750

ZlG-ZAG

SEWING

MACHINE P/N

55039

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Adjusting for Good Stitches .....................

38 Adjusting Pressure of Presser Foot .............

10 Adjusting Tensions ........................... t2 _ 13 Applique ..............................................

26 Basting ................................................

Biind Stitching ......................................

Buttonholes ....................................

11 t9 20 - 25

Changing the Presser Foot .......................

15 Cleaning and Oiling ...........................

31 - 33 Connecting Machine ...............................

4 Darning ...............................................

Decorative Stitching ...............................

Double Needle .................................

18 17 28 - 29

Fastening a Seam ..................................

Feed Dog Control ...................................

15 !5

Identification- Head Parts ......................

2 -3 Inserting Bobbin into Bobbin Case .............

8 inserting Pattern Disc ..............................

16 Inserting and Removing Material ................

Installing Machine Head ..........................

14 4

Needle and Thread Table ......... '. ...............

Needle Size ..........................................

5 5

Overcasting

...................

'.......................

27

Parts List ........................................

36 - 37 Picking Lp Bobbin Thread ........................

10 Placement of Needle ...............................

5 Removing Bobbin Case from Shuttle ..........

Reverse Stitching ...................................

Replacement of Belt ...............................

6 11 31

Setting Stitch Length .............................

Setting Stitch Width ...............................

Sewing Light .........................................

Sewing on Buttons .................................

Sewing on Lace .....................................

Sewing on Plastic Films ...........................

Sewing on Stretch Fabrics .......................

Sewing with Reverse Pattern Disc ..............

Straight or Three- Cornered Tear ...............

Synthetics ............................................

11 16 4 19 26 30 27 16 26 30

Threading Upper Machine ........................

Turning a Corner ....................................

9 15

What to Do .....................................

Winding the Bobbin ................................

Writing

and Monogramming

.............

34 - 35 7 , ....... 27

FRONT

VIEW

®

o o @ o

® ®

O

1.

Hand Hole Cover Plate

7.

Thread Guide

12.

Stitch

Width

Control

Knob

2.

3, 4.

5,

Feed Dog Presser Foot Presser Foot Thumb Screw Thread Guides

8.

Face Cover

Plate

13.

Stitch

Length

Control

Lever

9.

10.

Thread Take.up Arm Cover Plate

14.

Light

Switch

15.

Fead

Dog

6.

Thread Tension

11.

Bobbin Winder

t6.

Nomenclature

Assembly

Mechanism

Control Plate

Knob

BACK

VIEW

¢

17.

Ho_d

_,.

Clutch

39

_u_tonhole

20.

Wheel Knob.

22.

Bobbi_

W,_der

Tension

R_verse Stitch

{.ength Control

_'3.

Presser Fo_,_ Kr,_b

Upper Thread Spool_ Pros

24.

Upper Thread G_es

_5,

Presser Foot L_v_r

26.

Ne_dlQ Clornp Sc,ew

27.

Threod Cutte_

28,

Needle

Plato

INSTALLING MACHINE HEADIN PORTABLE ANDCABINET Loosen

the

edge of cabinet

the machine cutout _2_.

two

hinge

screws bed Sllp

and tighten hinge screws Lower machine head to Screw spool pins the spool pins. accessory box.

O

under

holes

in

the

rear

11_.

Raise hinge pins in the machine head onto the pins securely front flap.

_3

.

in place.

Lay the plastic discs over Discs and pins are packed in the

SEWING LIGHT

O

O

The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown.

It may be turned on or off by pushing the light switch.

In order to operate the machine the switch must he on.

To remove cover plate turn bulb

bulb, turn by swinging clockwise,

replace, push See illustration

in new 4.

light it and bulb

switch open, remove and

turn

off, open the face push bulb in slightly, from socket.

To counter

clockwise.

CONNECTING MACHINE Push bed wall

the plug onto three-prong plate.

Plug machine cord outlet.

See illustration 5.

connector into any

under 110-120V

the

NEEDLE ANDTHREAD TABLE THREAD Cotton

SIZE

NEEDLE SiZE Sheer

cottons,

s_JkL

and

synthetics

11

A

Cotton

FABRIC

60-100

Synthetic Silk

PLACEMENT OFNEEDLE

i 60-80

Fine

Raise

needle

bar

to its highest

sition

by

turning

hand

toward

you.

screw+

laces

side

Medium

weight

cottons

Medium

weight

Silks

needle

Synthetic

Medium

weight

synthetics

needle

Si_k

Light

Mercerized

50

14

A

Cotton

40.60

Heavy

Mercerized

50

Mercerized

heavy

duty

heavy

duty

Cotton

weight

16

weight

Medium Heavy

30-50

woolens

needle

cottons

:_o heavy drapery

weight

woolens

fabrics

Heaviest

cottons

as for

Heaviest

woolen

coating

men's

work

c|othes

18 Mercerized

NEEDLE SIZE Use KENMORE conform to the to the material. bobbin as on sewing.

Never

6021 needles.

The size of the needle should size of the thread and both should be suitable The same size thread should be used in the the upper part of the machine for ordinary use a bent needle nor one with a blunt point.

This

I I

.+

_

+

II

)

I|/

! ii

is

the

exact

length

of

the

needle

be used in your machine.

Comparison this illustration will determine whether needle your

you mach_.

have

is the

correct

one

to with the for

Loosen

Hold away

the

clamp, clamp

wheel

needle

clamp

needle

with

If|at

you.

Sllp

the

as it will

go into

the

from

as far

po-

and screw.

tighten

the

+

-I

REMOVING BOBBIN CASEFROM SHUTTLE Needle at its highest position.

Pull out latch.

Pull

bobbin

straight

case out.

WINDING THE BOBBIN

0

0 Place post.

thread Draw

on spool /"-__ thread as _/_11_-_:,--_

_

..... .....

Release

clutch

by

turning

clutch

knob

toward

you.

Start

machine.

0 Wind bobbin

0 thread a few

around times.

When

bobbin

winding

is

full,

mechanism

stops.

0 bobbin

bobbin

winder

latch

,_-, ki.:::

0

Place

Push

,%,.

bobbin until

onto shaft. winder

it clicks.

Tighten and

clutch

remove

knob

bobbin.

....................... ii!i: _6_ _..... _i¸i¸

INSERTING BOBBIN INTOBOBBIN CASE .........

CASEINTOSHUTTLE Guide

bobbin

center

slot.

Pull

thread

through

Pull

thread

under

Holding

0

onto

[atch,

0

tension

position

pin

of bobbin

spring.

case

into

0 • /

case.

shuttle,

\

release

latch.

0

THREADING UPPER MACHINE

Place thread as illustrated between discs of the Thread Tension Assembly.

Prevent the spool of thread from turning and by holding the end ol the thread pull spring wire loop up and pa_t the top hook until the thread can be slipped nto the hook.

When thread tension is released, the spring wire loop will return to pos_t_on as shown with the thread in proper place.

Release spool of thread and continue to th'ead machine as illustrated.

PICKING UP BOBBIN THREAD Raise Hold hand

_Di YI

YiL::)]

in left complete

Bring bobbin thread up by pulling See illustration.

Place threads back under presser

............. _]i

i

presser foot lever. needle thread loosely wheel toward you one

band and turn. upper

rotate

thread.

foot.

ii_,__

ADJUSTING THEPRESSURE OFTHEPRESSER FOOTPush

down

outer

ring

of

presser

foot

knob

illustration).

This will release pressure foot.

To increase pressure, push down until suitable pressure is obtained.

For

ordinary

sewing,

the

inner

pin

should

half way down.

When sewing multiple heavy material, reduce the pressure, when sewing sheer fabrics.

Insufficient

pressure

difficulty in guiding foot marks appear

I0

may

cause

skipped

See

of presser inner pin

be

about

thickness increase

or it

stitches

or

the fabric, if feed dog or presser on the fabric, reduce the pressure.

V

SETTING STITCHLENGTH The stitch length lever controls the stitch length.

Set lever to any desired stitch length position between 0 and 4 by turning knob until the indicator is aligned with the stitch length number desired.

The red mark indicates the setting for a satin stitch.

This will vary slightly depending upon the type of material to be sewn.

At No. 4 the longest stitch is obtained.

The size of stitch you select will depend on fabric you are sewing.

Straight stitching is done with stitch width control on 0 setting and by removal of pattern disc.

REVERSE STITCHING Raise lever for is best to begin back tacking.

reverse stitching.

Lower lever for and end most seams with reverse

forward stitching

stitching.

It often called

BASTING For accomplishing quicker, more even and firmer basting, we suggest you regulate the maciline in the following manner; Set stitch length at No. 4 for the longest possible stitch.

Machine should be threaded in normal manner except bypassing the check spring as illustrated.

Basting is easily removed by pulling bottom thread.

When basting very sheer fabrics, use a paper backing.

If

you

pins. of the foot.

prefer Be pin

sure away

to

use to

keep from

pins

for

basting,

the pins the presser

at

your right foot.

KENMORE angles Also

to the reduce

will

sew

seam pressure

and

over

the

the head on presser

11

ADJUSTING TENSIONS

O

A perfect two

layers

stitch

will

of fabric

have

threads

with

no

loops

locked on top

between or

(Refer to page 38) Fig.

1

PROBLEM

0 Fig.

Upper

Upper

12

too

tight

Decrease

Tension

Increase

Tension

2

O

Fig.

thread

REMEDY

3

thread

too

loose

the

bottom.

[

INCREASE TENSION Whenstitchingis figures thread

2 and tension.

requires than

1

as

upper tension

adjustment

the

When

unsatisfactory

3, adjust the Lower thread

upper

stitch

and

less

thread

is

cause

may

be

upper

and

lower

frequently

tension.

is satisfactory,

seam

in

badly

tight

as in figure puckered,

tensions

may

Turn

J

Clockwise.

the

and

both

be adjusted.

J When

adjusting

bobbin

case,

with

It

tension slight

a screwdriver.

is

necessary

thread

tension

decorative width be

the make

to

reduce

somewhat

decreased.

increased,

the

DECREASE TENSION

ISee page 38)

stitching. is

on

adjustments

the

upper

when

doing

As the

tension

the

i

stitch should

Turn

Counter

Clockwise,

13

INSERTING ANDREMOVING THEMATERIAL

For all kinds 5.

of sewing,

Before placing see that :

the

* The presser foot are both tight. .The kind

sizes of of work

tensions

material

and

needle

take-up

have

been

feed

, Stitch desired

Experiment

dog

at their adjusted.

width

sewing

To remove the work, first turn hand wheel toward you until needle is at its highest position, then raise the presser foot, draw material to the rear and cut off excess thread with the thread cutter located on the presser bar.

been drawn the machine.

IMPORTANT:

controls

on

used to determine tension correct stitch settings.

14

the

is up,

length and settings.

by

suit

are

properly

Place material under the presser foot, insert the needle into the material by turning the hand wheel toward you, lower presser foot and start sewing.

To facilitate placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot, the presser foot lever can be raised beyond the normal "up" position.

screws

thread lever

page

machine

clamp

* The ends of the threads have about 4 inches to the rear of *The

chart

on the

needle and to be done.

, The needle and highest position. * The

consult

the

are

fabric

adjustments

set

at

to

be and

Always

turn

the

hand

wheel

toward you!

When machine is not being used, place a piece of material over the feed dog and lower the presser foot.

Always have fabric under the presser foot when operating the machine.

Operating threaded machine without fabric will cause it to jam by forcing thread into the shuttle.

See pages 32 and 33,

CHANGING THEPRESSER FOOT The various attachment feet to be fastened to the presser

available bar.

for

certain

kinds

of work

are

To attach the foot, raise the presser bar to its highest position by raising the presser foot lever.

Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the front.

Tighten the screw using the large screw driver and make sure that the foot is secure.

kl N

TURNING A CORNER Stop Turn

sewing fabric.

machine Lower

with presser

needle in fabric. foot and continue

Raise presser stitching.

foot.

FASTENING A SEAM iI

j

Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot.

Lower needle into fabric about ½ inch from beginning of seam.

Push stitch length control lever up for reverse stitching.

Stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam.

Move stitch length control lever down for forward stitching and complete seam.

When you reach the end, raise the stitch length control lever and sew back over ½ inch of completed seam.

FEEDDOGCONTROL The feed dog control knob is situated on the right front of machine bedplate.

When knob is turned to the left, feed dog drops and does not: pull material.

This allows the operator freedom of movement of material, as for darning.

For regular sewing, turn knob to the right, "U" _Feed dog up).

15

ZIGZAGCONTROL SETTING STITCH WIDTH lnsert between

disc _1.

0 and

! to 4, Straight or by removal When not

sewing be

4

Turn the stitch on the knob,

of

stitching pattern

with

advanced

width Zigzag

is possible dis_:.

the

double

beyond

2_,

knob stitch

to the width

desired increases

only

with

control

the

stitch

width

needte

on

setting from 0 setting,,

control

must

setting,

INSERTING PATTERN DISC i.

2.

Turn Pull

3.

Grasp pattern disc and slip disc onto the shaft.

Make sure the retaining pin ,_g enters hole in disc, To start a pattern at the beginning, align the engraved dot on the disc with the cam follower _.

To do this. slip the disc onto the shaft so the engraved dot is at or as near (countercloek. wise) the cam follower as possible, If the engraved dot is not aligned until

handwheel pattern disc

the

with dot

so that the shaft cover

the cam is aligned,

place a scrap To remove pattern from shaft.

of

fabric disc.

needle open,

lollower, i_|f

the

under tollow

the steps

is

in

turn the machine

its

highest

position,

hand wheel is threaded,

presser 1 and

foot_.

2, grasp

toward you be sure to disc

and

pull

discs, discs,

discs the

SEWING WITHREVERSE PATTERN DISC Your machine numbers 21, stitch control

required an extra

provided 23 and 24.

length control _; should be

Depending adjusting.

16

is 22,

upon Turn to obtain piece o[

the the the fabric

with four reverse When using these

should in the

be set upright

type of control patterns to be

fabric slightly

at

4.

The position

pattern pattern reverse for

most

stitch length materials,

used, this control to the right or to

illustrated used.

on

page

17.

may need the left as Practice

on

>

i

>> !

â‚Ź

I 1

=

2

6

7

8

9

21

10

22

23

t

24 J

DECORATIVE STITCHING This machine supplied with stitches indicator may See

enables your

you machine,

are made with plate.

Stitch

be changed page 25.

by When

using using

to

sew beautiful The movements

the satin stitch length will vary any the

other disc

decorative of the

fo0St, stitch width slightly depending

lengt h numbers

or width, 2].

22,

Disc number 21 also makes the stretch stitch when on Stretch Fabrics, See page 27.

It is necessary to reduce the upper thread tension is increased, prevent the

the tension should bobbin thread from

and needle

be decreased, coming up

on

23 it

embroidery stitches are controlled by at

4 and stitch upon the type

All patterns and 24, the is

somewhat

This will the top of

[

used

as [or

prevent the fabric.

also stitch directed decorative the

by the

means disc.

length at of material can be length in

the to

made control

the

red mark be sewn.

with double should be

instructions

stitching. material

of various discs Basic decorative

from

As

for the

puckering

on the Pattern needle. set at 4, Sewing

stitch

width and

will

17

DARNING WITHPRESSER FOOT: 1.

Turn

2.

Press down outer ring of in this position, mending,

feed

dog

control

to left.

3.

Stretch

fabric

tightly

4.

Lower

presser

bar

presser darning,

between so

foot knob, monogram

two

thread

spring

will

darning 5.

stitches.

When you for general dog control

Fast

movement

finish darning, raise sewing by pressing to right.

embroidery

have

move fabric back and forth to cover sewing at right angles to the previous can make any length stitches desired.

see page 10.

With presser work, etc. may be done.

some

hoops

tension.

and When

place you

foot

under start

knob

needle. to

darn,

darning area.

Then turn fabric and continue stitching.

Use medium machine speed.

You Slow movement of fabric will make short

will

make

long

stitches.

presser foot and remove fabric.

Increase down inner pin of the presser foot knob,

pressure Turn feed

WITHOUT PRESSER FOOT: 1.

Turn

2.

Remove Proceed

3.

dog

control

to left.

presser foot. as directed under

When you finish darning, presser foot, and increase right.

18

feed

steps

3 and

raise the pressure

4 above.

presser foot lever for general sewing.

and remove Turn feed

fabric, Replace dog control to

SEWING ONBUTTONSu.. d,.o Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold securely.

Drop feed dog.

Turn hand wheel by hand until needle point is just above button.

Adjust stitch width so that needle will align with a hole of button.

Turn hand wheel again by hand so that needle goes into second hole, readjust stitch width if necessary.

Stitch a number of times, turning hand wheel manually.

Finish sewing with an extra 2 inches of thread, draw thread to reverse side and tie securely. li using

a 4 hole

button

repeat

the

above

procedure.

@

NOTE: To make a small thread shank when sewing on a flat button, place a straight pin or needle between the holes of the button.

O

BLINDSTITCHING Disc _ 2 Stilch Stitch

O

width 2 _May length 3

vQry depending

with

a turned

of materiol]

1.

Prepare the [inlsh, or

2.

Apply seam tape straight or zigzag

3.

Turn hem and baste about _ inch from the edge of the seam tape using longest stitch on the sewing machine.

4.

Fold along

5.

Remove basting and press hem. may be eliminated in a straight

garment garment

hem

on type

along the stltching.

and

raw

edge

back along basting fold using disc _ 2.

llne

The hem.

edgestitched with

and basting

either

stitch step

19

Use

BUTTONHOLES

(Models 68, 95, 1600, 1650, t651, 1652)

disc

_: I

and

special

buttonhole

_oot

Stitch tength at red mark Buttonho[e control knob F Feed

dog

cantrol

U

Place the fabric, with the buttonhole length marked at both ends, under the buttonhole foot.

Without lowering the foot, let the needle pierce the fabric at the beginning of the buttonhole.

Set the foot so the beginning of the red zone _closest to the needle_ is at the mark of the opposite end of the buttonhole.

Lower the foot.

Stitch forward until the needle reaches the red zone on the front edge of foot, Then turn the knob to R, and stitch the other side of the buttonhole.

Turn knob back to F to finish end of buttonhole.

The speed with which the knob is turned determines the number of stitches at the ends of the buttonhole.

The slower the knob is turned, while sewing, the more stitches are formed.

See page 21.

Reproduction of identical size buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of the graduations on the left side of the buttonhole foot.

These graduations are 1/8 inch apart.

Just mark the starting points of the buttonholes, let the needle pierce the fabric and set the index mark CA_ on the upper portion of the foot at the same graduation mark CB_ as it was set for the first buttonholeo Lower the foot, Follow the procedures outlined above.

Always make a practice garment, using a double in garment.

buttonhole thickness

on a scrap of fabric used of fabric, and an interfacing

in the if used

The stitch length may be varied slightly by the stitch length control lever within the 0 to 1 range.

To increase forward stitch move this lever from the red mark toward 1, to decrease move it toward the 0.

The buttonhole reverse stitch length control _C_) is used to match the length of the reverse stitches with the forward stitches.

Turn the dial to the minus direction for shorter stitches; to the plus direction for longer stitches.

These settings may vary depending on the type of fabric used,

2O

Position

V

1

Step

1

Position

v

V

F

2

Step

2

v

¸

R _

_••:

A"_

rr/

:a.

<<

<<

<

<< << <<

21

BUTTONHOLES

Use disc _ 1 Stitch

(Models 96, 17501

width

Feed dog control-Lef_ knob- about

1_

@

I!

Covet

plate for butlonholes

0 i,4!_

/-

Remove and

insert

plate.

,__:/i

regular

Covet"

cover

buttonhole

l_Jo I a

plate cover

Select snap

desired into

guide

template plate,

and

Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole.

Screw

guide plate on machine Drop guide with template

22

â&#x20AC;˘ "

pinion

gear,

guide

into guide bed.

pin

on

pin hole

plate into place fitting over the

HINTSFORPERFECT BUTTONHOLES

O

O

Mark

the

buttonhole with chalk

ii!__

_:!

position

;: :

facing of a firm fabric.

Use cambric or taffeta between woolens

and

thread

through

guide plate and draw toward back.

Place

threads material

on

the

guide

presser foot Buttonhole

plate. and will

start be

Drop sewing. formed.

The buttonhole size and shape is not influenced by the stitch Length knob so it may be set on any

rayons-organdy

or lawn between and sheer fabrics,

light

Use

scissors

or

to

cut

buttonhole

buttonhole up bobbin

each

Loosely woven fabrics and fabrics that stretch easily such as jersey should have an interi ,_ ;:

Pick

o[

on the garment or a line of basting.

buttonhole

cutter

weight

open.

An occasional drop of oil on the oiling hole provided on the back of the buttonhole

Always make a practice buttonhole on a piece of the fabric to be used in the

cover

provide

garment.

of

A wider

stitch

width

desirable fabrics.

on

heavy

plate

wilt

smooth operation buttonhole maker.

your

may

be

weight

position.

23

BUTTONHOLES (Model

0

t654)

Use disc # 1 Stitch width knob- about 1

0

_[uidepinhol!

_

pinL0__ear

Remove regular cover plate and insert buttonhole

Feed dog control- Left Cover plate for buttonhotes

cover plate,

Screw guide pin on guide plate into guide pin hole on machine bed.

Select desired size of buttonhole by turning disc as shown above.

Length of buttonhole appears in window on top s{de of guide plate.

Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole, Screw guide pin on guide ptate into guide pin hole on machine bed.

Drop guide plate into place with template fitting over the pinion gear.

24

HINTS FOR PERFECT BUTTONHOLES

O

O

Mark the position of each buttonhole on the garment with chalk or a line of basting.

Loosely woven fabrics and fabrics that stretch easily such as jersey should have an interfacing of a firm fabric, Use cambric or taffeta between woolens and rayons-organdy or lawn between light weight and sheer fabrics.

Use buttonhole buttonhole cutter hole open.

Pick up bobbin thread thraugh guide plate and draw threads toward back. Place material on the guide plate, Drop presser foot and start sewing, Buttonhole will be formed.

The buttonhole size and shape is not influenced by the stitch tength knob so it may be set on any position,

An occasional drop of oil on the oiling hole provided on the back of the buttonhole cover plate will provide smooth operation of your buttonhole maker,

to

scissors or cut button-

Always make a practice buttonhole on a piece of the fabric to be used in the garment, A wider desirable fabrics.

stitch on

width heavy

may be weight

25

APPLIQUEu_o,,,_:,1 Baste cutout 4, Set stitch

applique to fabric, length at the red

plate.

Zigzag stitch ing the raw edge,

around

Set mark

applique

stitch width 2 to on the indicator completely

cover-

SEWING ONLACE uso,_o_1 Set stitch width to 2.

Set stitch length to 2 or 3.

Place fabric under the presser foot anti position lace inch from edge of fabric, Position fabric and lace so that stitching

right stitch catches left edge of lace, so that edge of lace is overcast.

Continue

STRAIGHT ORTHREE-CORNERED TEAR U_e disc _ 6 Stitch width 4 Stitch [ength at red mor_

Position

tear

under

needle

and

stitch

along

ght tear catching sides of material.

When three cornered tear, stitch from each end

26

the

strai-

mending to center.

a

OVERCASTINGu. d_s° ;_ Set stitch width to 4.

Set stitch length Zigzag stitch around raw edge of fabric cover the edge.

to about 3. to completely

f.

WRITING ANDMONOGRAMMING U_e d.: _1 i iill _

Free hand Stitch width 0 to 4 Feed dog control Left Draw initials or words fabric into embroidery either zigzag or straight foot.

Set stitch width as desired.

Slip hoop lower presser bar and thread through fabric. along marked outline, hands,

to be sewn on fabric and fit hoops.

Writing is done with stitching.

Remove presser for straight or zigzag stitches and fabric under the needle. take one stitch to raise bobbin Using a medium speed, stitch guiding fabric carefully by

!

ii!!!iiiiiiiilZiiiiiiiii!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

SEWING ONSTRETCH FABRICSu_o_,o_2, Stitch width 0 Stitch lenglh 4 Use with knitted fabrics and stretch fabrics.

Sew as you do straight stitching.

Machine will make triple lock stitches back and forth.

The seam can be pressed open without breaking thread.

27

DOUBLE NEEDLE

1. SETTING THEDOUBLE NEEDLE Raise clamp

the needle bar to its highest screw.

Hold double needle

from you. clamp, and

Slip the needle tighten the screw.

as

position assembly far

as

it

and with will

loosen needle flat side away go

into

needle

2. THREADING THEDOUBLE NEEDLE Place

a spool

of thread

on

each

through upper thread guides. of tension dis_:s of the thread

spool

pin.

Draw

both

Pass a thread between tension assembly.

threading as you would for single double thread guides are provided.

threads each set Continue

needle sewing except where Draw one thread through

each side of the double thread guides and from front to back.

Pull several inches Thread bobbin and pick up bobbin thread sewing.

through each needle of thread through. as for single needle

3. THREAD SELECTION When using double needle do not set stitch width higher than 2½ setting.

Use size ing.

28

only mercerized sewing thread is recommended

thread size 50 or finer.

The same for both upper and lower thread-

4. STITCHING All

decorative

Before

by turning fabric stitch

patterns

starting

any

the

without width

are

possible

stitching

handwheel

with

operation,

double

check

manually.

Needle

touching presser foot control must not be

needle.

needle

drop

should

and needle advanced

enter

plate. beyond

The 23

setting.

5. TURNING A CORNER To

turn

needle, the

a stop

fabric.

turn, presser in the

lower foot new

square stitching Raise

corner

when

with

the longer

the

presser

presser

foot

again,

complete

and

stitching needle

foot, take the

with tip just

shift one

turn,

fabric

stitch. and

begin

a

t

double piercing half

Raise

the the

stitching

direction.

29

SYNTHETICS Your KENMORE will sew all the new fabrics of synthetic fiber, such as nylon, *Orion, _ _Dacron, rayon, acetate, blends o| these, and combinations of synthetic and natural gibers.

When stitching a fabric of hlended or cnmbined fibers, handle it as you would a material of the fiber present in the [arRest percentage.

For example, a fabric woven of 60% Orlon and 40% silk should be handled as one made entirely of Orlon.

When stitching a fabric that is over 50% synthetic fiber, remember: a.

_elect patterns of the loose fitting type with sleeves, because most synthetic fiber fabrics wltil steam pressing, and are not absorbent,

b.

Use

a s_'nthetic

c,

Use

a fine

d.

Wind the bobbin in ween tension discs. bobbin.

e,

Choose

f_

Check thread ten,ions by sewing on a double fabric to be used.

Usually the upper thread loosened.

Sometimes both bobbin and upper must be loosened _pages 12, 13L

the

cap cannot

or

kimono eased

he

thread.

needle

stitch

as

recommended

in

chart

the usual way, but do Guide thread by hand

length

that

gives

the

on

page

5.

not pass thread betfor a smoothly wound

most

satis|actory thickness tension thread

seam. of the must he tensions

SEWING ONPLASTIC FILMS Set the Use a together corners _Trademark polyester

3O

machine with normal thread tensions fine needle and mercerized thread. with cellophane tape or pape_ clips slightly rounded rather than square, tot fiber,

Dupont's

Acrylic

fiber.

and a large size stitch.

Hold plastic pieces rather than pins.

Sew

_Trademafk

for

Dupont's

REPLACEMENT OFTHEBELT Push motor against machine and remove belt from motor pulley.

Let motor down gently.

Pull belt out over hand wheel.

Install new

belt

reversing

the

above

procedure.

CLEANING ANDOILING Keep

the

thread Cleaning When

moving

machine

noise, place machine oil A, B, & C.

Swing points

Fig.

parts

free

from

dust

and

for quiet and efficient operation. should be done with a small brush. runs a at

hard

or makes

drop of KENMORE the points indicated

i

excessive sewing in figs.

hinged face cover plate open to indicated at end o{ machine head.

!

oil

A

3_

t!_ at top of machine head.

To _,_: take disc out from machine, :_ and lifft cover.

It

may

1.

be

necessary

to

clean

remove remove

the

cover too

shuttle

Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove bobbin ca_,e.

Push levers sideways from the shuttle assembly and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out by the center pin.

2.

32

plate, screws F;o. B

area

occasionally.

3.

Clean small brush.

the shuttle particles of

4.

Put a drop of of the shuttle _see arrows),

race thread

of

any with

oil on the center and on shuttle

lint or a small pin race

To reass_mble, hold shuttle by center pin and fit carefully into assembly opposite the shuttle driver.

Slip shuttle race cover into place.

Snap the levers into position.

Occasionally, remove the needle plate and clean feed dog with a soft brush.

Shuttle

Race

Cover

Shuttle

Shutlle

Race

33

WHAT TO DO i=

'1II

II

PROBLEM

irregular Stitches

size

Improper

threading.

I

upper

Pulling

Breaking Needle

I

needle.

choose

Light

pressure

an

Loose

presser

fao_,

wound

Pulling fabric, Incorrect size Incorrect

tension.

presser

foot.

Bunching of

!

Thread

bobbin.

end

drown

back

Feed

dog

Incorrect

Puc_:ering

34

pull

increase

needle

_page

thread

pressure

guide

_page

_page

Do not pull fabric; Choose correct

of needle.

threads

under

both

threads

Raise

feed

dog

Reset

thread

(page

5_.

_page

12_.

Foot

(page

10)_

it gently. for thread

and fabric _page

5).

5].

back

15_.

under

presser

foot

Cpage

10_.

foot.

down,

thread

guide

size needte

Draw

fabric

7_.

Reset needle _page

not

presser

and

15_.

Beset presser foot _page

lower

thread

it gently.

on presser

foot

bobbin

For

9_.

tension

fabric;

presser

Rewind

needle.

setting

Upper

upper

Do

not

size

machine

Tighten

Reset

Loose presser foot.

:I

correct

Rethread

thread

m

CORRECTION

fabric.

Unevenly

ii

CAUSE

Incorrect

Loose

'i

.

PROBABLE

tension_s_.

Light pressure on presser foot.

Increase

Using two different kinds of thread.

Upper

_page

15_,

tension_s_

pressure

on

_pages

presser

12,

Foot

13_.

_page

10_.

sizes or t_reod

and

Bent or blunt needle,

Insert

new

Loose presser foot.

Reset

presser

Fabric too

Use

sheer or too soft.

underlay

needle foot

bobbin _.page _poge

oF tissue

thread

should

be

same

size

5_.

15_.

paper

or

tarlatan

when

stitching.

and

klnd.

WHAT TO DO ,.

i

ii

i

i n

i

i

i

i

I II

PROBLEM

PROBABLE

Skipping

IncOrreCt

size

Ben_, or

b{unt

Incorrect

I

II

[

I I

IIIII III

ill

II

CAUSG

neecl_e.

Choose

need{e.

Insert

new

need|e,

Reset

need|e

tension,

Loosen

setting

of

IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII

Illill

I

I

CORRECTION

correct

size

needle

needle

_'page

_poge

for

thread

and

|abric

_page

5_.

Fabric

_poge

5_.

57,

5_.

Stitches Tight

upper

Light

pressure

Starting

to

_mproper Breaking Upper Thread

Tight

stitch

upper

Sharp

on presser

too

foot,

|ast,

threading,

Incorrect eye

tension.

needle.

in

case

threading

thread

Increase

pressure

Start

stitch

to

_poge

presser

foot

a

medium

speed.

at

upper

Choose

correct

Check

tension

on

machlne

Loosen

Insert

needle.

bobbin

upper

Rethread

thread

size

Improper

Breaking

thread

new

ipage

thread

needle

bobbin

needle _page

case

10_.

91 ,

tension

size

12_, _'page

:_poge for

12_.

thread

and

5_.

threading

_poge

8_.

_page

13_.

Bobbin

Thread

Tight Lint

bobbin in

Feed Fabric

not

Moving

Machine Jamming _Knocking Noise_

bobbin

dog

Light Threads

Thread

thread case

tension. or

shutt|e.

on

knotted

caught

Clean

Raise

down.

pressure

Loosen

presser under

in

shutt{e.

_oot,

fabric.

increase

bobbin babbln

feed

thread

c<_se csr_

dog

;page

pressure

Place both to stitch,

Disc_ssemble

tension

and

(pages

32, 33t.

151.

on

threads

shuttle

presser back

cleon

foot

under

shuttle

_page presser

_pages 32,

_0_. foot

before

beginning

33).

35

PARTS

LIST

All parts listed here may be ordered through your nearest Sears or Simpsons- Sears retail store, catalog sates office or mail order house.

@

@ @

@ @

36

@

@

ÂŽ

@

Whenordering theseparts,pleasebesureto mentionthefollowingreferences : 1. Model& serialnumbers of machine shownonthenomenctature plate. Seepage2.

2. Parts number(s) and description(s) here.

When ordering by mail, prices will be furnished on request, or parts will be shipped at prevailing prices and you will be bilged accordingly.

Ref. No=

Par s No.

Description

Ref. No.

_tion

Ref. No.

17980

Shuttle

hook

2

26929

Needle

clamp

3 4

F502 6510

Bobbin Bobbin case

5

6797

Light bulb

6

30!5

7 8

3076 26841 26842

Pattern disc

No. 2

15

740

26843 26844

Pattern disc No. 3 Pattern disc No, 4

16 17

9363 6870

Zigzag presser foot Satin stitch foot

26845

Pattern disc No. 5

18

135

Presser foot thumb

26846 26847

Pattern disc No, 6 Pattern disc No. 7

19 20

6902 6864

Motor rubber belt Needle threader

26848

Pattern disc No. 8

2I

6854

Buttonhole

26849

Pattern disc No, 9

22

8939

1-1!16"

Keyhole

template

26850

Pattern disc No, 10

8940

1-1/16"

Regular

template

2t_6t 26862

Pattern disc No. 21 Pattern disc No. 22

8941 8942

!3t16" Regular template 5/8" Regular template

26863

Pattern disc No. 23

_293

6! 16" Reguatr

26864

Pattern disc No, 24

9

6745

No. 11 Single needles

in yellow

9022

1/2" Regular

template

6742

No, 14 Single needtes

in red case

9023

3/8"

Regular

template

6743 6744

No, 16 Singte needles No. 18 Single needles

in green case in blue case

5/8"

Keyhole

23

9020 9181

Buttonhole

cover plate

11

1939

Bobbin winder rubber

ring

24

9_62

Buttonhole

guide plate

Large screw driver

12

2273

Nylon

25

32736

Buttonhole

guide plate

Small screw driver Pattern disc No_ 1

13 14

8286 1222

Thread spool pin Bobbin winder tension

needle in ivory case

Straight

ayelel 9021

disc

15/16"

case

PartsNo.

6741

Double

10

PartsNo.

1

template

disc

stitch foot

,_crew

foot

template

end

temptate Regular

template

37

ADJUSTING When

your

sewing

YOUR machine

SEWING

does

not

sew

MACHINE a properly

locked

The upper and bobbin thread should be matched in size and type.

Check threading carefully, See page 9.

Check the thread tension balance.

Use mercerized thread, and for the fabric you are using.

Do not try this test with synthetic break.

c.

fabric

into the case. of your fabric fold.

the if if If If

stitching

and

pull

with

both threads break-tensions neither thread breaks-both upper thread breaks-loosen lower thread breaks-tighten

a snap

to

make

threads

are balanced. tensions are too upper tension. upper tension.

you

the

following:

are

using.

a correct size needle thread as it will not

Set the stitch in half diagonally,

If seam is puckered-both tensions are too tight.

If the bottom thread lays on the fahrictighten upper thread test.

See page 12, Figure 3.

If the top thread lays on the fabric-loosen upper thread test.

See page I2. Figure 2.

Grasp a. b, c. d.

and

STITCHES

check

2.

3, 4.

bobbin, properly threaded per inch.

Fold a 6 _ square a line of stitching _'_ from

thread

stitch,

Insert a new needle of the correct Consult chart on page 5 for'needle

a. b.

the

GOOD

1.

Begin with a full about 12 stitches a triangle.

Make

size for size.

FOR

tension, tension,

length at forming

and

repeat

and

repeat

break.

loose.

oth threads do not have to break at the same place, but they should break on the same _ap. obbin tension may be reset by the following procedure.

Start with a loose bobbin thread msion.

Tighten the spring screw gradually until bobbin case and full bobbin can be gently lifted from your hand by the end of the bobbin thread.

38

39

_[

40

]1_._[

0

SEWING

MACHINE

SEARS, ROEBUCK SIMPSONS-SEARS

AND CO., Chicago, IL I U.S.A. and LIMITED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada Printed

in Japan

Part No. 55039

9/91