AND DECORATIVE
UTILITY
ART.
125
With the end of the tape-measure wrapped around, and near the sharp14. ened end of the crayon or pencil, the distance of the depth-measure on the tapemeasure as a radius, and point 8 as a centre, draw curved line P, or the "bottom line of the cape," from point 9 to point 10; as illustrated in the cut. Indicate line Q, from point 9 to point 10; as illustrated in the cut. 15. Indicate line R, at right angles with line Q, from point 4 to line Q; 16. and locate point 11, at the point of intersection of lines O and R; as indicated in the cut.
Having taken the "bust- measure" (on the form
for which the cape or intended) around the form over the fullest part of the bust and arms, bust-measure subtract this to the desired degree of closeness, find Yz of said amount from the distance between point i and the point of intersection of line O and the fold, along curved line O: Locate point 12 on line O, the distance of this difference, from point 11 toward point i. of Locate point 13 on line O, the same distance from point 11 toward 18. point 7; as the distance between points 11 and 12. Draw line S, from point 4 through point 12, to line P. 19. Draw line T, from point 4 through point 13, to line P; which process, 20. completes the cape, seamless at the centre of the back: Figure XXXV, or the front of which, is indicated and included within lines P, B, C, D, and S; and Figure XXXVI, or the back of which, is indicated and included within lines P, the "fold of the goods" at the top, J, K, and T; as illustrated in the cut. Q. E. D. Jgi^'For the cape, seamless at the side, abandon the "fold of the goods," "the selvage of the goods," and lines S and T, and proceed as follows, viz: Locate point 14 on line O, the same distance from point i toward point 12, 21. as the distance between points 1 1 and 1 2. Without changing the position of Figure XXXIII, at the point touching 22. to upon point 4, move the lower part of the lining of the front back toward line the position in which, line B will pass over point 14; and mark the line indicating as illustrated in the cut. that position, by the character Locate point 15 on line O, the same distance from the point of inter23. with the "fold of the goods," toward point 13, as the distance besection of line tween points II and 13. Without changing the position of Figure XXXIV, at the point touching 24. upon point 4, move the lower part of the lining of the back toward line R, to the position in which, line I will pass over point 15; and mark the line indicating that as illustrated in the cut. Which process, completes the position, by the character draft of the cape, seamless at the side; as formed and indicated within lines P, U, C, the back and front, or Figure XXXVII. D, K, J, and Q. E. D. I. The " dolman-cape," or cape which is seamless at the back or side, N. B. having fullness on top of the shoulder, and a seam immediately in front of the arm, is easily cut from the same draft as given for the cape, in either form above; by applying the same principles of taking out the dart, and throwing the seam, as a mere extension of line E (where it begins to curve) down the front, to the bottom of the little cape; and allowing the desired extra fulness, along the upper part of line E. thought, and practical experiment on paper, will easily solve the problem for the careful student. Or this cape may be cut from the upper part of the draft of the "dolman;" which, is given elsewhere. 17.
circular
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A
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