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IRENE

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PACE


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


BY THE SAME AUTHOR ART NEEDLEWORK AND DESIGN


EMBROIDERY

STITCHES M.

E.

BY WILKINSON

?

NEW YORK FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY PUBLISHERS


THE ANCHOR PRESS,

LTD., T1PTREE, ESSEX.


PREFACE this collection of Embroidery Stitches, I have endeavoured to place before those artists who are interested in needlecraft an exposition of the most useful and artistic stitches that have formed a part of my own work during several years' study and practice of Art Embroidery. Some of these will be familiar to Needle-artists others will serve to exemplify how, in process of working, fresh stitches may be evolved from old ones or how, when originality gains ground entirely new stitches become apparent and workable. A point somewhat overlooked in Art Embroidery is the fact that each separate stitch is a design in itself. If this principle be fully recognised, the necessity for careful and systematic study of the forms and functions of Embroidery Stitches will become obvious to the student and worker. immediately " " Embroidery Stitches is planned with a view to facilitating reference, and to affording immediate conception of the intimate connection between illustration and explanation. To attain this end, the illustrations are placed in uniform spaces and in each case throughout the volume, two on each page the description appears opposite its corresponding design. In this the arrangement differs from that of other Needlework manuals, in affording that clearness, sequence, and finality, so agreeable to the worker, which becomes impossible where

IN

:

;

;

illustrations are interspersed at irregular intervals in a con-

tinuous letterpress.

Every endeavour has been made to ensure simplicity and and where possible in a book of this point in the directions size, suggestions have been given for the application of stitches to useful purposes. The alphabetical system of arrangement has been adopted, as being most suitable for a book of reference. In the comparatively few cases in which one stitch is known by two names, the design has been repeated under the different headings, to maintain clearness and alphabetical sequence. ;

M. E. Wilkinson. Kendal. Oct. 1912.

2040

vl


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

i.

ANCHOR STITCH.—This

stitch

is

similar

to

Horn stitch, but with a longer middle portion. To work, make two side stitches joined at the bottom ;

make a Chain stitch covering the joining, fasten this Chain stitch down by means of a long overcast stitch, taking the needle to the back of the work.

2.

ALGERIAN STITCH.— A

kind of Cross stitch

somewhat akin

to Cretan stitch, but

The

either be

stitch

may

worked on canvas.

worked very

closely or openly.

Bring the needle to the right side of the work. about five threads down, take up three threads. over to the top (See

line,

Double Algerian

and continue

in the

stitch.)

o

2040054

Count Cross

same way.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

4


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

3.

ALL-OVER STITCH.— A

stroke stitch used to

work groundings where no particular pattern is desired. The stitch is made in any direction and of any size.

4.

ALPHABET STITCH.—A

species of

Couchm 5

used for working monograms, etc. Lay strands of cotton or wool along the main lines of the letter, forming a padding.

Work

over these as in ordinary Couching.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

APPLIQUE STITCH.—A

5.

work

to attach one material to

stitch used in applique

another— in

reality a

kind of buttonholing, but beginning from the left hand side, and worked towards the worker, whereas correct buttonholing stitch

latter

worked away from the worker. makes a knot, which Applique

The

is

stitch

The stitch is necessarily worked very closely over the raw edge of the applique material, to avoid avoids.

fraying.

BACK STITCH. —A

6.

ment

neat stitch used to orna-

linen or fine canvas.

Bring the needle to the surface of the material, insert it two threads behind the

working thread, take up four threads forward, bringing the needle up two threads in front of the working thread. Continue taking two threads behind and two before the working thread, putting the needle each time into the

same hole

as the last stitch.

stitch

to

depends upon its perfect draw a thread for a guide.

7

The beauty

regularity.

of the

It is

best


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

7.

BALL STITCH. — A

mental

balls

stitch used in

children.

for

making ornaBind some loose rags

tightly together into a ball. in the illustration,

forming

Wind

sections.

string across as

Thread a needle

with bright-coloured wool, and work round and round, passing the needle each time under a strand of string. colours be used the effect

If different

8.

BAR

STITCH.

—A

is

very pleasing.

stitch used in lace

and other

open work, to connect edges by crossing over a space. Pass threads across from one edge to the other and work over these. (</).

The bars may be

or buttonholed

and may be

(//).

single or in

plain or twisted, as in

or overcast closely as in

groups of threes, fours,

[c),

etc.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

BASKET STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This

9.

from that used

in

is

a distinctive stitch

Basket Couching

(see Couching),

and is a kind of Cross stitch. To work, draw two lines

any distance apart and

on both upper

lines.

parallel

mark dots at even distances

Bring the needle from the under to the on the first dot on the lower

side of the material

Cross over and insert in the third dot on the top bringing it out on the corresponding dot on the

line.

line,

lower

Put the needle into the second dot on the

line.

bring out on the second dot on the lower line, and cross over to dot four. Continue the pattern in

top

line,

this

way.

10.

of

BATTLEMENT STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Formed

long and short

pattern.

It

may

stitches,

making a

be worked in any

single, double, or treble lines.

IT

of a series

species of fret size,

and either


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

ii.

BEAD

STITCH.

representations of

The

used in making Each group consists one with two side

stitch

rows of beads.

of three Satin stitches, a central stitches.

12.

BERRY STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This

stitch

working berries, seeds of fruit, etc. stitch, worked as for bead work.

It is

It

is

used

for

a small Satin

may

be used

The inner portion should be coloured strands, with a black or dark outline. padded or otherwise.

13


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

14


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

13.

BOAT

STITCH.—A

arranged for insertions.

worked

14.

in

long-and-short

To be

two shades, the deeper

effective

it

stitch

should be

for the outer portion.

BRANCHING STITCH.—A

series

of

small

stroke stitches used in the representation of branchings in Natural

Needlework.

-5


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

15.

stitch.

BRICK STITCH.— An It

may

all-over

or

grounding-

be used as a Couching, or in simple

series of single lines as in the illustration.

16.

BUCKLE STITCH.— This may

straight lines as in in

((),

be worked

in

or with tiny satin stitches as

(>,).

17

B


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES BULLION STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

17.

in rolls

the

same

single

raised

on the surface of the work. as for

French knots, and the

or in groups

(a),

stitch

Draw

(6).

falling

The working rolls

may

is

be

three parallel lines

as guides.

Bring up the needle at (c), insert it at (d), and bring out again at (c) in the position shewn. Twist the thread about six times round the needle.

Hold the it

roll

slipping

Turn the

off.

roll

made with the thumb to prevent Draw the needle through the roll.

thus

upwards

to

Insert the needle at

(d),

similar stitch to the

left.

(d),

lying as in

bring out at

On

(c),

(a)

and

(b).

and make a

completing each stitch

always bring the needle out in correct position for beginning the next.

18. el<>se

BULLION-AND STAR STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Three rows

of Bullion stitches,

stitch between.

19

or six

with a branching straight


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

20


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

19.

BUTTON STITCHES.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;These

are

used

in

attaching plain or ornamental buttons. The stitches may be back-stitched in rings, as in (a), or crossed to

form a star

20.

falling in the centre of the button, as in (b).

BUTTONHOLE BARS.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Used

in

lace,

em-

broidery and drawn-thread work. To work, pass two or three threads from side to side and work the stitches

over the threads. (a) (b)

For single stitch bars work stitches one way only. For double stitch work up one side, but not very

closely side,

;

turn at the end, and work

putting one stitch

between

down

each

the other

two

taken

previously. (c)

For groups

of bars,

work three or four bars

together, with spaces between the groups.

21

close


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

22


EMBROIDERY STITCHES 21.

BUTTONHOLE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;There

kinds of

all

variations of

are several the plain

buttonholing, ordinary buttonhole may have both ends round, both square, or one each round and square. Buttonholes should be worked accurately by a thread. The corners contain seven stitches geometrically

An

stitch.

arranged (see (a) and (b)). To work a buttonhole, hold the work under the thumb with the edges away from the worker. Begin by slipping the needle between the edges, bringing it out on the surface about four or five threads in. Put the needle over the edge of the buttonhole to the under side, insert it again about two threads from where it came out before. While still in this position, throw the thread over the point of the needle from left to right, forming a loop. Pull the needle through, and draw up closely into a firm knot at the edge of the buttonhole. Repeat, making all stitches uniform.

22.

BUTTONHOLE STITCHES.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Buttonhole stitch

be arranged ornamental edges.

may

tooth

buttonhole

many ways

in

The (6)

;

to give

illustrations

Serrated

shew

variety in

Dog-

(a)

buttonhole

;

(c)

{d) Fringed buttonhole. Scalloped buttonhole In the last example the working thread is passed over ;

a

mesh

loops.

after each stitch, giving uniform length to the

A

netting mesh, lead pencil, ruler,

serve the purpose.

23

etc.,

will


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

^

l6>

(a]

24

ca)

CO


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

23.

BUTTONHOLE WITH CHAIN

STITCH.-

The buttonholing is worked first in small or large waves, and the Chain stitch is added afterwards. The size of the

waves

be increased

may

pattern to varying spaces (see

24.

CABLE STITCH. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

if

desired, to adapt the

a).

variety of Chain stitch,

but more intricate in the working. Bring the needle to the surface, hold the thread down under the left thumb ;

pass the needle from left to right under the portion of thread held down, as at (a). Turn the needle round

perpendicularly with the loop of thread on it. as at (b), Reverse the needle, still holding down the thread. as at

(c),

insert

it

where the thread

last

in position for the

Chain stitch just below came out, and bring it out below

in the last

next

stitch.

round the head of the needle

Pull the loop tightly

release the thumb, and draw the needle through, keeping the thread as the loop for a Chain stitch. This makes a series of Chain stitches connected

by

;

a small tight loop.

25


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

26


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

CAP STITCH. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This may

25.

ways (a) (b) (c)

The

:

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

A A A

is

suitable for very small borderings.

as an all-over stitch.

went

line

three

long stroke with three Chain stitches.

CAPTURING STITCH

needle a

in

long stroke with two Chain stitches.

of the material.

it

made

long stroke with two short strokes.

stitch

26.

bo

little

Make

is

used for borders or

Bring the needle to the surface a small stitch, bringing out the

further on

(a).

Put the needle

in

where

and bring it out halfway down the made by the half stitch, and inside of it (b). Make in before,

a similar stitch in any direction so that it crosses over the second line of thread (c). Thus the thread always crosses a line at the half.

27


EMBROIDERY STITCHES C>)

C<x)

28


EMBROIDERY STITCHES CARPET STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

27.

term sometimes applied Cashmere

to varieties of Cross stitch or such a stitch as

and

stitch,

also to a

Rug

stitch

worked with a crochet

hook and thick wool. wool are cut

hook

;

In the latter short lengths of each length is folded into two a crochet ;

inserted in the loop thus

made

and drawn through the canvas from the top surface and out again to the top a thread or two further on. is

at the fold,

the fold in

This

half the stitch.

is

In the other half the hook

catches the two loose ends and draws original loop.

them through the come to the

All the loose ends thus

surface of the canvas, where they can be fringed out to give a matted appearance.

CASHMERE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

28.

stitch

supposed

to represent the

kind of Half-cross texture of cashmere

To work, proceed diagonally, and take first one stitch across one thread, and then two stitches material.

across

may

two threads

be used

if

of

the canvas. Larger stitches but the same desired, proportion must

be preserved throughout.

29


EMBROIDERY STITCHE?

30


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

29.

CASTLE STITCH. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Draw

gauge correct distances,

30.

lines

parallel

and work with straight

CHAIN STITCH. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; So

lance to the links of a chain.

called

from

Each

stitch

its is

to

strokes.

resemb-

formed by

inserting the needle in the last loop made, and bringing it out a little lower than where it went in. Bring the

needle up from the wrong side, hold the thread

with the it

left

down

thumb, put the needle back into the hole it out again about an eighth of

came from, and bring

an inch below the

last loop.

31


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

32


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

31.

CHAIN STITCH (TWISTED).â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The

between

this

and plain Chain

are connected

by

stitch

is,

difference

that the links

a species of bar or twist.

This

is

achieved by inserting the needle, not in the last loop made, as in ordinary chain stitch, but to the left-hand side of

32.

it,

and

slightly lower

CHECK

STITCH.

down.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

stitch used in decorative

darning to fonn an ornamental check pattern, which may be varied at will according to the number of threads taken and omitted.

33

(See Darning.)


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

34


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

33.

CIRCLE STITCH.— A back

ornamental for attaching

34-

circles,

conventional

stitch

flower

used

centres,

for

or

ornamental buttons.

CIRCULAR ARROW STITCH.— Arrow

arranged circularly

;

stitch

suitable for embroidered costume

buttons.

JD


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

35.

CLUSTER STITCHES.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Clusters

work are groups

in

needle-

of similar stitches placed in close

proximity to form a grounding or powdering, or for the French knots, dots, picots,

centres of flowers, etc. etc.,

are the stitches most useful for this purpose.

illustration (c)

shews

Cross clusters

36.

(a) ;

Knot

(d)

clusters

;

(b)

Dot

The

clusters

;

Line clusters.

CLOTH STITCH. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

stitch used in pillow-lace

making, but which may be adapted to needle-weaving. It is formed by simply weaving a thread with a needle over and under transverse threads in regular rotation.

The

stitch

is

useful for

making ornamental

borders.

\7

ribbon-like


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

37.

COMB STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This

stitch

to give a serrated appearance.

is

It

used for borders

be wide or

may

narrow.

38.

CORAL STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; May

Draw two

double, treble, or more. guides.

Bring the needle up

material, hold the thread

make a

be worked as single, parallel lines as

to the right side of the

down under

the

thumb,

left

up the

stitch on the line to the right, bringing

down

needle over the thread which

is still

the thread and draw

Proceed in a similar

it

up.

make stitches alternately holding down the thread each to

stitch

must be

worked.

level

Double

three side stitches.

to

held

the

time.

left

two, and More may be added

Coral has

39

and

The top

with the bottom of the

release

;

of

each

last stitch

treble if

way

right,

Coral

desired.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

40


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

39.

CORDING STITCH.—A

stitch very similar to

Coral stitch, but worked closely, and with stitches

only taken in one direction, i.e., from right to instead of from each side alternately.

40.

CRACKER STITCH.—Work

The

stitch

five parallel lines

and make branching stitches at each end. may be worked any size, and groups may be

as a centre,

connected

left,

if

desired.

41


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

mm 42


EMBROIDERY STITCHES 41.

CRETAN STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

stitch

when

which,

worked

To

closely, gives the appearance of close plaiting. work, draw two parallel lines, bring the needle from

the under to the upper surface of the material, on the left-hand corner of the lowest line but one. The needle in

working

is

always at right angles to these

lines.

Insert the needle in the top line slightly further to the right of

where

a small stitch

came out on the bottom downwards then insert it it

;

line,

and take

in the

bottom

and

In similarly take a small stitch upwards. taking the stitch the thread must be kept to the left of the needle as in the illustration, or the plaiting will line

not take place. The illustration is drawn more openly than worked, in order to distinguish the threads.

42.

CREVICE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

ing lines for borders.

stitch

worked

in slant-

Lines should always be drawn

as a guide to correct spacing.

43


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

/


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

43.

CREWEL

most useful

stitch, the etc.

stems,

form, and

Draw

STITCH.-

is

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Sometimes

called

Stem

of all stitches for outlines, veins,

may be used either in large or small adaptable to most minute curves and lines. It

begin at the bottom and work upwards. Keeping the needle pointed downwards, take a small stitch each time as in the illustration, and repeat for a

line,

the length required.

44.

CRICKET STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Similar to Five-line stitch,

but with two short strands joining the bars at the top.

45


EMBROIDERY STITCHES (.eU

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46


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

45.

CROSS STITCH.

on canvas or coarse Half-cross stitch

;

(b)

—A

stitch

linen.

It

adapted

for

working

has three forms

Whole-cross stitch

;

(c)

:

(a)

Double-

The whole stitch forms a perfect square. The crossings must be uniform, i.e., the top halves must all slant in the same direction, likewise the bottom halves. Double-cross stitch must be worked over an uneven number of threads to allow a space for the

cross stitch.

horizontal central cross, as in

46.

(c).

CROSS-AND-TRIANGLE STITCH.—This com-

bination of stitches

very suitable for borders. Variety could be given by working the crosses in one colour

and the

is

triangles in another.

47


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

47.

stitch

CROSS STITCH (Variegated). Ordinary Cross may be variegated in numerous ways by the

addition of extra stitches, to form ornamental borders, as in

48.

(a),

(c).

CHRYSANTHEMUM STITCH.—This

similar to for

(b),

Loop

but

much

petals.

The

stitch,

Chrysanthemum

longer,

leaves

simple, as in the illustration, or each

may

stitch

and

may

is

is

used

be quite

be secured by

a small stitch as in Loop stitch.

49

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

49.

COUCHED HERRING-BONE.—This makes ex-

tremely pretty borders, especially when used outside a row of ornamental darning with a fringed edge.

The Couching

stitch should

from the Herringbone

always be a different colour

stitch.

A term used to denote the 50. COUCHINGS. attachment of loose strands of material to a foundation by means of other working

threads. Couching is distinct from Applique, which is a term usually applied to the attachment of solid pieces of material to a foundation.

The

chief

kinds

of

Couching arc

—Plain,

Basket, Battlement, Brick, Diagonal, Diamond, Floral, Geometrical, Tartan, and Check Couchings. (a) Plain.— Strands of material are laid in rows and fastened by single stitches. Gives the effect of interlaced strands. (b) Basket. Lay a foundation of cord or thick cotton to form a padding. At right angles arrange a covering of strands of silk, wool, etc. Fasten in uniform groups by means of upright stitches falling alternately between the hues :

of

padding material. (c) Battlement. Couching in the form

of

battlement

outlines. (d)

Brick.—Strands are placed

work. 5i

in the

form

of brick-


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

51. (e)

COUCHINGS Diagonal.

and couched (/)

:

strands are arranged diagonally

at right angles.

Diamond.

diamond

—The

[continued)

—The

strands arc arranged to form a

and secured

pattern,

at the crossing points

by a small stitch. (g)

Floral.

—Leaves,

flowers, etc.,

may

be couched in

outline or as solids. (h)

Geometrical.

couched

52.

— Geometrical

forms

may

COUCHINGS

(continued). —Stitches

worked may be couched by means of other (a) shews Couched Herring-bone. (b)

is

also

be

in outline or as solids.

Couched Basket

The Couching

already

stitches.

stitch.

stitch should

shade, to be effective.

53

always be of a relieving


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

54


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

COUCHINGS

53.

worked

in the

(continued).

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Couchings

form of tartans or checks.

coloured silks or narrow ribbons

may

dark

be

thus be couched

according to the kind of pattern desired. tion represents rows of

may

Strands of

The

illustra-

narrow ribbons so couched with

silk.

54.

CUP-AND-BALL STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This

stitch,

so

from its appearance, consists of one long upright with two branching strokes, between which is line, worked a circle in solid Chain stitch. It is suitable

called

for borderings.

D3


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

56


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

55.

DARNING. —A

species

of

weaving with the

needle used in producing patterns by utilising the foundation threads of the material as warp threads.

In ornamental darning

little

or no working shews on

the under side, the working thread being kept as much as possible on the upper side to shew the pattern in relief (a)

The

Straight

56.

chief kinds of ;

{b)

Waved

;

ornamental darning are (c)

Diamond

;

(d)

for borders,

dots.

The

latter

Vandyke.

DIAGONAL-AND-DOT STITCH.—A

stitch

:

pretty

formed of long slanting lines and should be worked in a relieving

shade.

57


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

X-X^-X-.K-X:>

58


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

57.

DIAMOND STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

forming a diamond.

It

series of short strokes

could be ornamented with

This makes very pretty and useful borders, and can also be used as an all-over

dots as in the illustration.

pattern.

5cS.

DOT STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

simple stitch used for the

centres of flowers, small powderings, or groundings,

made by

taking up a small portion of the material on the needle, and pulling the thread through,

etc.

It is

bringing up the needle where the next stitch

made.

59

is

to be


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

— •"

ml "if

60


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

59.

DOT-AND-CROSS STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

stitch, useful either in single or

lines

60.

double

Guiding

should be drawn before working.

DOT-AND-SCALLOP STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; This combina-

tion of stitches

material,

and

is

is

the best for ornamental edges of

suitable as a pretty finish for children's

embroidered costumes, as well as

adornment. or

pretty border

lines.

worked

The

scallop

may

articles for

be either buttonholed

in close Satin stitch over

raw edges.

61

household

a cord to keep in the


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

61.

row the

DOUBLE ALGERIAN STITCH.—Work

of Algerian stitch,

a different colour.

first in

62.

one

and then another row between (See Algerian stitch).

DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH.—The

Chain stitch

is

first

ordinary worked, and after each stitch a

is worked inside the first. A pretty work with two needles simultaneously,

second smaller stitch variety

is

to

one threaded with dark and the other with for the

two

stitches.

63

light silk,


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

64


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

63.

DOUBLE CORAL STITCH.—This

stitch

species of the Coral stitch described in No. 38.

two branchings on each

64.

It

is

a

has

side.

DOUBLE FEATHER STITCH.— The

same as

simple Feather stitch, but with the groups of branchings twos at each side.

in

E


fcMBROIDEKY STITCllKS

60


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

65.

DOUBLE LINE STITCH.— For

requiring

little

work

this is useful.

It

simple borders may be varied

with dots, or crosses, between the groups of

66.

DOUBLE SLANTING-ARROW STITCH.—

Double rows forms.

lines.

of

Arrow

stitch forming

(See Slanting-Arrow.)

67

two triangular


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

S>Q OOQO O O Q ^ ? *?

cc6t

6S

*? <?~*9


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

67.

DOUBLE WAVED-CHAIN-AND-DOT

STITCH.

—This

variety of Chain stitch is a pleasant change from the ordinary straight form. Three or The dot accentfour lines could be worked if desired.

uates the waves.

68.

DUMB-BELL STITCH.— A

series

of

upright

or slanting lines, with a ^mall back stitch at the top and

bottom.

69


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

70


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

69.

EASEL STITCH. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

ornamental perpendicular

70.

small

stitch suitable for

lines of

EYELET STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This eyelet-holes

in

stitch

embroidery.

usually very close overcasting, but

buttonhole to fray.

is

is

first

used

for

The working is sometimes a firm

used instead where the material

To work,

working

embroidery.

is

inclined

run one or two threads round

the eyelet-hole to keep the threads together, and then work over these threads. This gives a raised effect to the work. Eyelet-holes are generally round, but

The working is sometimes done and the centre cut away afterwards.

not necessarily.

7*

first


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

71.

FAGGOT STITCH. —A small overcast or button-

hole stitch, used to connect groups of loose stitches.

72.

FASTENING-OFF STITCH.— The

in finishing a line of sewing.

The

the fastening-off in seaming.

At the end

the

work

is

stitch used

illustration

turned round and the working

shews

of the is

row

continued

again over half a dozen or more stitches before cutting off the thread.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

73.

FASTENING-ON

STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; The

stitch

for

beginning such work as seaming, frilling, etc. The loose end of thread is left when the needle is first inserted,

74.

and

this

FEATHER

kind of Satin

is

secured with the

STITCH.

stitch, so

first

few stitches.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The ancient form was a

arranged that the stitches fitted

and covered the whole of the foundation. The modern form is an open stitch worked similarly into each other

to Coral stitch, but the needle

placed in a slanting Draw three lines bring is

direction instead of straight. up the needle on the centre one.

;

Hold the thread under the left thumb. Insert the needle on the lefthand side line, and bring it out slightly lower than where the thread last came out, keeping the thread flat on the material. Draw through and take a similar stitch to the right.

and

left.

Continue working alternate stitches right The stitch may be worked as single, double,

treble, etc.,

according to the

number

to form the side groups, as in

/

D

(a),

of stitches taken

(b),

(c).


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

76


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

75.

FELLING.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This

is

the stitch used where the

edges of two pieces of material are to be joined together. The edges are first turned down, and the two pieces

seamed together. The work is then turned and a hem formed at the other side, which may either be secured

by hemstitch

76.

which

or

by a running

FIGURE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; This is

used for working raised

is

the Satin stitch

figures.

Strands of

first laid down, following the lines of the and the working is then done as in the illustra-

cotton are figure,

stitch.

tion.

77


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

rS


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

77.

FINE-DRAWING STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This

is

a running

or darning stitch used in drawing together the edges of

when The needle

line material

them.

on each

78.

in is is

side,

it

is

is

not desired to

and the edges drawn

FINISHING STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; The

any kind

hem

or

seam

run lightly between the threads

of needlework.

close together.

last securing stitch

In some cases the thread

run along a short distance, in others an extra stitch taken over the top of the previous one in knitting ;

and crochet the finishing stitch is made by drawing the end of thread through the last stitch made. (See Fastening-off.)

79


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

80


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

in

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This consists

79.

FIRE STITCH.

any

direction, joined at the top but not at the bottom.

So called from

80.

its

resemblance to flame when worked.

FISH-BONE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

worked

in

of long stitches

series,

stitch which,

resembles the backbone of a

Similar to Feather stitch, but differentiated

when fish.

by the needle always coming up centrally between the two side lines, and being worked rather more closely. Sometimes a back stitch is used as the central connecting stitch.

81


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

82


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

81.

FISH-SCALE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

stitch used for

working

fish-scales.

loose It

is

Buttonhole useful for

working representations of

fish in designs, seascapes in natural needlework, and in making ornamental pocketpincushions in fish-shape, as in the illustration. Work

a row of Buttonhole stitches across the space, fasten on at the side, turn back and work one Buttonhole stitch into each previous loop

until the space

is

filled,

;

continue in this

fastening the thread at each side of the space to be

82.

FIVE-LINE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Similar

stitch,

but

with

five

way

leaving the loops loose, but

upright

borders.

83

strands.

to

filled.

Four-line

Useful

for


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

83.

FLAG STITCH.—This

is

formed of six strokes

to represent the outline of a flag.

It

is

useful for

borders.

84.

FLAKE STITCH.— A

small stitch like a Stroke

stitch, used to ornament leaves and geometrical shapes or as a ground-work powdering.

8-


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

86


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

85.

FLORENTINE STITCH.—This

Cashmere

stitch,

86. stitch,

same

similar

to

with the difference that the stitches

are alternatively over one in the

is

and two threads, slanting

direction

FOUR-LINE STITCH —Similar but with four upright strands.

37

to

Three-line


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

FRENCH KNOTS.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Used

87.

for filling in centres

dot-markings on leaves, etc. Bring up the thread to the right side of the material, and hold it down under the thumb. Twist the thread three or of flowers,

four times (according to the size of knot required)

round the needle between the thumb and holding down

linen, still

Put the needle back to the

the'thread.

wrong side about two threads behind the place where came out a first, and bring it out at the exact place

it

where the next knot

is

required.

Always hold down

the thread as long as possible in order that the knot

may

be quite tight.

88

FRILLING

WHIPPING

or

species of loose overcasting

a

It is usually

frill.

which can be drawn up into

worked on

left

thumb

to

soft pliable material

Begin from the form a roll of the edge

such as mull-muslin or lawn.

and use the

STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

right,

of the

material as the work proceeds. Work about half a dozen stitches and then draw up the thread. The stitch

is

suitable

for

frills

cushion covers, small collars,

89

for etc.

embroidered muslin


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

••••»•••••••••*•••••*" •"••izistjz' :.:::::::.:::::::.:::

::::;:::::::»:::

:

:

t.iin.z.a

:::::::::::::»

••••••<•••••<••••••••••••::;:!!!!!!!...!.!....."•"•••!•••••••••••••••••••"•'•

/\


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

FRINGE STITCH

89.

used either in button-

is

holing or drawn-thread work.

The thread

is

carried

over a mesh before making the next stitch, thus forming a loop, which is secured in its place by the next stitch

The edges of plain material can also be fringed out and secured by a hemstitch. The fringe can be secured in clusters by a knotted taken.

(See Buttonhole.)

stitch.

90.

GATE STITCH. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This

upright lines

lines

may

suitable

for

consists

borders.

of

series

of

The horizontal

be either darned, couched, or backstitched.

Qi


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

nil 1

V

92

1

1

1

i

1

m

i

1

1

1


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

91.

GERMAN STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;An

old

stitch

used

in

attaching materials by means of one set of stitches. A small turning having been made, a stitch similar to

Fine-drawing stitch is made on alternate sides, and the edges thus drawn close together.

GIPSY STITCH.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Formed

two long stitches and one shorter one, with a hook or small cross-bar. 92.

of


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

94


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

GOBELIN STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; One

93.

of stitches

most ancient

formerly used in old tapestry work.

The

perfectly upright, and when worked on canvas usually two threads long by one in breadth. Some-

stitch is

;

of the

is

times a padding

a raised

94.

is

used beneath the stitches to give

effect.

GRASS STITCH. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Long

stitches used to repre-

sent grasses in Natural Needlework.

worked into a

may

These

may

be

straight border as in the illustration, or be used in conjunction with Water-stitch.

95


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

GROUNDING

95.

stitches used

in

STITCHES.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Various

embroidery to give variety

small in

back-

grounds. The most common are various kinds of Darning (see Darning), Knots (see French Knots), Dots, Rice stitch and Honeycomb (see under different The illustration shews a small figure with headings). a darned background.

96.

may

HAT STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; So

called from its shape.

be used for borders or for

the two upright strokes, join

top and a longer one it

may

filling in spaces.

them by one across the As a grounding

at the bottom.

be connected by Cross stitches, as

97

It

Make

in (h).


EMBROIDERY STITCHES r-

98


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

HEMSTITCH. — An

97.

ornamental stitch used

in

drawn-thread work to secure the edges of a hem. The two parts. First take four or five threads

stitch is in

on the needle, then put the needle back and hem through the folded material.

98.

HERRING-BONE STITCH.— An

stitch used for borders

and

for

hemming

flannel or material too thick to fold as It

may

ornamental the edges of

an ordinary hem. be used as a Plain stitch or ornamented with a

Couching

stitch.

(See Couching.)

99


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

ioo


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

HEXAGON

99.

or

HONEYCOMB STITCH

useful stitch for groundings.

back

stitch,

and

be worked by

joins

Each

two other

The

lines.

the aid of upright lines

is

a

one small

line is

stitch

drawn

may

as guides.

a row of stitches slanting alternately from right Connect these by small to left and left to right.

Make

another row slanting right and Continue until the ground as in the illustration.

upright left is

lines.

Work

covered.

ioo.

gon

HONEYCOMB STITCH â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The

stitch.

101

same

as

Hexa-


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

102


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

101.

HORN

STITCH.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

stitch

somewhat

similar

to Wheat-ear stitch, but not joined to form a connected

To work, make two side stitches joined at the bottom. Make a Chain stitch covering the joining, fasten this Chain stitch down by means of a small line.

overcast stitch, taking the needle to the back of the

work and bringing

it

out in readiness for the next

stitch.

102. lines

HURDLE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This

combination

of

makes a pleasing and unique border where a

purely conventional pattern is required. should be drawn to ensure accuracy.

lines

103

Guiding


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

MK[xBE*BH^K IXIXXIXIXIXIXTXI iXlXlXIXiXIXIXiXj 1X1X1X1X1X1X1X1)0

MXXIXMXMX1

104


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

ITALIAN STITCH.

—This

a Square Greek stitch with the addition of Cross stitches from corner 103.

to corner.

104.

(See Square

INTERLACING

Greek

is

stitch.)

STITCH.—A

stitch

used

is required for embroidered out to give as wide a threads squares, space as desired, then interlace the threads which

where an open border etc.

are

left

Draw

by pulling one thread over the next with the

needle.

io

:


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

106


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

105.

INVERTED FLAG STITCH.— This

to Flag stitch,

and may be used

is

similar

as single, double, or

treble rows.

106.

KENSINGTON STITCH.—Similar

stitch.

107

to

Stem


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

ro8


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

LACE STITCHES.— The

majority of Lace founded on a species of Buttonhole. In embroidery the stitch is used to cover surfaces, and may be used as an ornament for leaves, scrolls, etc., 107.

stitches are

as in the illustration.

108.

LADDER STITCH.— Ladder

a very wide chain, but

stitch

made with two

is

simply

strokes of the

needle instead of one, to give the necessary width.

109


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

no


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

LATTICE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A kind of interlaced Herring-bone. It may be worked on canvas or linen. 109.

Work four or five stitches slanting in the same direction. Then over these work others

in the contrary direction,

but interlace afterwards by putting the needle over one of the stitches first made (a). If

and under another worked on a

large scale a small stitch

to the points of juncture afterwards,

very pretty

no. stitch.

effect (b)

and

and

be added

this gives

a

(<;).

LEAF STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This It

may

is

similar

may be used for small leaves,

to

or for ornamental motifs, as in the illustration.

in

Loop

as a grounding,


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

112


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

in. LINE-AND-DOT STITCH.— A

simple

com-

bination useful for small borders.

112.

LONG-AND-SHORT STITCH.— This of Satin stitch

is

an

used to accentuate

floral adaptation forms when not desiring to fill them in solidly. The stitches should follow the curvature of the leaf or

flower. is

The monotony

of a succession of long stitches

broken by the short ones.

113

H


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

"4


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

113.

LONG-AND-SHORT CHAIN STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This

a pleasing change from the ordinary Chain stitch. It may be arranged in a variety of forms according to

is

the

number and

114.

position of the short stitches.

LOOP STITCH. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; This

stitch

is

used

in

making

very small leaves, and also as a powdering. To work, bring the needle to the surface of the material, hold the thread

down under

into the hole

the

whence

it

thumb, put the needle back came, and bring it out slightly

left

further on (according to the size of loop required), still keeping the thread held down close to the material, so that

it

docs not pass over the working thread which in the needle again last, but over the loop

Put being drawn through. almost close to where it came out is

thread.

This makes a tiny stitch which holds the loop

down.

"5


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

116


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

115.

MADEIRA STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The

Madeira work.

The same

stitch

used

as Eyelet-hole stitch in the

working.

116.

in

MARKING STITCH

(See Cross stitch.)

117

or

CROSS STITCH.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

MOSAIC STITCHES. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; These

117.

are arrangements

of stitches so placed as to give the idea of

The of

stitches

canvas or

upon

its

are linen,

mosaic work.

taken uniformly over the

and the beauty

of the result

threads

depends

regulaiity.

OCTAGON STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

small straight stitch used in making outline octagons. It may be used 118.

either for borders or groundings.

119


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

120


EMBROIDERY STITCHES 119.

ORIENTAL STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

plait not unlike

Cretan

stitch,

forming a The working resembles stitch

Herring-boning, but the stitches are quite close together. The needle is always brought up into a hole it has

passed through before. If worked on canvas or coarse material the threads may be counted. Bring up the space to the left on the lower line. Insert the needle four threads to the right on the top line and make a stitch from right to left. Return to the needle in the

first

lower line and take another stitch, bringing up the needle into the same hole it came out of before. Return

and continue as described, always bringing the needle up into the last hole. This makes a to the top line

succession of stitches similar to very close Herring-bone, with rows of back stitches on the reverse side.

120.

OUTLINE

termed Crewel

or

stitch.

STEM STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Sometimes (See Crewel stitch.)

121


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

122


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

121.

OVERCASTING

STITCH.— In

embroidery

a kind of very close Satin stitch. It must be taken from side to side of the space with great regularity (a). The term is also applied to a loose stitch used to this

keep

is

in

122.

raw edges

of material

(b).

PADDING STITCH.— Close Satin stitch worked

over a raised or padded grounding.

(See Couchings.)


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

124


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

123.

PALISADE STITCH.—This

stitch

borders where simplicity of stitch Guiding lines should be drawn. for

124.

PATCHING STITCH. — In stitch

is

used

Seaming where one raw edge stitch is stitch

in

is

is

useful

desirable.

ordinary patchwork "

"

patchwork, over another, Herring-bone the best to use (b) any other embroidery

which

(a)

;

crazy

lies

;

will

keep the edges

12'

in place is permissible.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

126


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

125.

PAVEMENT STITCH.—A

diapers or grounding patterns. stitch,

Bullion stitch

point

stitch

for

Brick

but larger.

PEARL STITCH.— Insert

126.

useful

It is similar to

(b).

(a).

the needle as

for

Twist the thread twice round the

Draw

the needle through, insert again close half of the stitch, twist the thread twice

by the first round the head

of the needle

and draw through

and once round the

(c).

127

point,


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

128


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

127.

PENCIL

or

RING STITCH.— This

stitch

is

used for making ornamental buttons. Wind several strands of thick crochet cotton round a pencil, slip all off together, keeping the ring intact, and buttonhole

round them very

128.

closely.

PERSIAN STITCH.—A

The upper part

of the stitch

of the lower.

129

species of Cross stitch.

is

always half the

size


EMBROIDERY STITCHES (<0

ilrl

C--*

No

I.10


EMBROIDERY STITCHES 129. PI COTS. —Small ornamental knotted stitches c mbroidery to decorate edges or borders, (a)

used in

stitch. Make a usual way. Draw the needle through the roll twist the roll into a semi-circle on the border secure it with a firm stitch, (b) Buttonhole or Chain Picot.— A succession of Chain stitches twisted into a cluster. Make a Chain stitch as at (6), then another inside it, and so on for about six, keeping the chain loose. Turn them round into a cluster, securing to the border with a firm stitch. Thorn Picot. Place a pin in the border as at (c), (c) pass the thread round the head and secure the loop thus made in position by a stitch in the border, bringing out the needle inside the loop. Hold the thread down with the left thumb. Insert the needle as in the illustration, under both the loop and the thread which is still held down under the needle point. Draw the needle through, thus fastening the Picot by a Buttonhole stitch, Withdraw the pin and proceed similarly.

Bullion Bullion

Picot, roll

in

founded on Bullion the ;

;

A

130. PIPING STITCH.— raised effect to a border for

row

of

piping gives a

embroidered cushions,

A piping-cord, or three or four strands of knitting cotton are placed in position, the material folded over them, and the whole secured in position either by simple running or by the utilisation of some kind of suitable embroidery stitch, such as Chain, Stem, Cording stitch,

etc.

etc.

131


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

IS2


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

PLAITED STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

term applied to any stitch which presents a plaited appearance. Cretan stitch is the best example in embroidery. The term 131.

is

also applied to the

woven

stitch of

which lace braids

arc formed.

132.

PLUSH STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;This

as Picot (Thorn) stitch, being

is

in reality

formed

of a loop

the

same

made by

passing the working thread over a large pin, or mesh, The securing it with a Cross or Buttonhole stitch. difference

is

that

Thorn

of a border to break the

while Plush stitch

is

so

stitch

is

monotony worked

worked on the edge of the straight edge,

as to cover considerable

pieces of material, to form a kind of mat.

Sometimes

the loops are cut open and fringed out with a pin, so making a softer and thicker mat.

' 1

'


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

mm

jJJTO'JTJ

§-§#§

134

£»£


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

133.

POINT DE REPRISE.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

to form bars in lace or embroidery, '

under-and-over

Two

'

stitch.

or

stitch

much used

and often termed

more strands

of

thread are passed across an open space and a thread is darned into these, first over one and then under

another strands

till

the bar

may

be used.

is

completed.

Any number

of

134. PRINCE'S STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;To work, hold the thread down with the left thumb and make a small back stitch. Draw the needle through, still holding the loop in its Make another loop This is the middle loop. place. to the top

time.

and bottom, with a small back

Fasten

all

with a firm stitch.

stitch each

This makes

a

group of three loose loops firmly secured by a cluster of backstitches. Proceed similarly tor the next stitch.

1

,0 ;


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

136


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

135.

QUEEN STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

species of

Cross stitch

used in marking. The stitches from each corner and side are all taken into the centre hole.

136.

QUILTING STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

stitch used for quilt-

Generally the stitch is plain running (a), but sometimes a chain stitch is used to give a more

ing purposes.

ornamental

embroidered

effect

(b).

The

handkerchief

sachets, etc., are

worked

quilted

and

in this

*37

glove

way.

silk

lining

cases,

of

scent


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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138


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

137. stitch,

RAILWAY STITCH.—The

same as Loop an extra sometimes and but with longer loops

line along the centre of the stitch.

small leaves and such flowers as the

138.

RAISED STITCH.—This

ding stitch.

(See also Couching.)

C39

is

It is suitable for

daisy.

the

same

as

Pad


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

139.

RAKE

to a rake.

and

is

140.

It is

STITCH. formed

—So called from

its

similarity

of successions of straight strokes,

suitable for borders.

RETICELLA STITCH.— The

chief

stitch

is

stitch, with Point de Reprise for bars, and Picots for ornaments.

Buttonhole

141


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

RICE STITCH.— Similar

141. stitch,

of rice.

142.

gives closely

to

Dot and Flake

but the strokes are longer, to represent grains It is used as a powdering or grounding stitch.

RIBBON STITCH.— A the

appearance

of

Satin

stitch

narrow ribbon.

which

Overcast

and then backstitch each edge very evenly.

143


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

143.

made

144.

RING STITCH. — Ornamental of

(a)

Buttonhole,

(b)

Stem, or

Chain

RING-AND-DOT STITCH.—One

stitches given

above

is

may

be

stitch.

of the

Ring

here adapted for a grounding

pattern, with the addition of dots.

may

(c)

rings

The other

stitches

be similarly used.

145

K


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

145.

ROPE STITCH.—Almost

like

Stem

stitch

but worked slightly wider.

146.

RUCHING STITCH.— A

gathering stitch used in making

loose

running

or

frillings or ruchings.

The running is worked midway between the edges, and when drawn up gives a frill on both sides. Suitable for

frilling

embroidered

pincushion

sachets, etc.

147

covers,

scent


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

147.

RUG STITCH.— (Sec

14S.

RUN-AND-LOOP STITCH.—This

Carpet

stitch.)

is

the

ordinary Loop stitch alternating with a small runningIt makes a pretty grounding stitch, and the stitch. lines

may

be cither wide, as at

149

((f),

01 closer, as at

(6).


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

149.

RUNNING STITCH. — Running

consists

straight stitches taken along the material without

of

any

turning back.

150.

SAILOR STITCH. —An ornamental stitch form-

ing a small triangle with a as in

(a),

(/;),

staff.

(c).

151

It is useful for borders,


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

152


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

151. ST.

Oueen Queen

ANDREW'S STITCH.—The

stitch, stitch.)

without

but It is

the

most suitable

side for

same

stitches.

as (See

canvas and other

open material.

152. in

SAMPLER STITCH.—The

sampler work.

stitch chiefly used

(See Cross stitch.)

15


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

153.

SATIN STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

overcasting.

A

favourite

cover surfaces with needle

is

stitch

stitch

worked

quickly

simply passed

like

in

very

wide

embroidery stitches.

to

The

one edge of the Leaves may be filled in

across, in at

design and out at the other. solidly with this stitch.

154.

SEAMING STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;The

two pieces

of material together.

be turned in to avoid fraying.

155

stitch used to join

The edges must

first


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

155.

Greek

SHOVEL STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Somewhat stitch,

out the needle at insert at

at

(b)

(a),

insert at

the next letter

and out (a)

at

(e),

to

Bring

and bring out at (c), (d), in at (c) and out

(b)

again, bring out at

(d), in at (a)

similar

but with an additional stroke.

and bring out at It may be worked

in at (/)

for another stitch.

in horizontal or perpendicular rows.

156.

SIGNAL STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; This

borders.

stitch

makes pretty

The. seven small strokes at the top are all

taken into one hole.

157


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

157.

SLANTING-ARROW STITCH.—This is Arrow

stitch placed in a slanting direction,

and may be worked

in single or double lines.

158.

SMOCKING

Honeycomb

stitch.

STITCH.—Sometimes The

stitch itself

is

termed

a small back

but when applied to material arranged to fall in gathers or diamond-shaped folds it bears the above

stitch,

name.

159


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

160


KMBROIDERY STITCHES

159.

SMYRNA

or

RUG STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; (See

Carpet

stitch).

160.

SNAILTRAIL STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

stems and outlines in which a broken

useful stitch for effect

is

required.

Bring up the needle to the right side of the work. Hold the thread down under ihe left thumb pass the needle over the thread and insert it in the material on the ;

left-hand side of the thread about an eighth of an inch it came out bring it up again to the right

from where side on

:

the opposite side of the thread.

thread through, straight stitch

when

it

will

Draw

the

be found that a small

and a knot have been formed.

Repeat

the process at regular intervals.

101

J.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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162


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

161.

SPANISH STITCH

is

a Cross stitch so worked

as to form a Cross stitch within a square. of the stitch is the

same

as the front.

to Square Greek stitch.

The

The back

stitch

Sometimes termed

is

akin

Italian

stitch.

162. SPIKE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A pretty little stitch made with one stroke of the needle. It makes pleasing

borders and small ornamental groups of

163

lines.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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164

©


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

SPLIT STITCH.

i6j.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;A

stitch in

which much of

the old embroidery was done. To work, begin at the lower end of the line and work upwards as in Stem stitch every time the needle comes out, bring it the thread it elf, thus splitting the thread into through :

two and forming a

164.

split stitch.

SOUARE-AND-CIRCLE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; This may

be worked large or small for borders. lines to

and

gauge distances.

circles in

If

Sal in stitch

;

stitches are sufficient.

Uf-

large, if

Draw

parallel

work the squares

small, simple outline


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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*

&

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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165.

SOUARE GREEK STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Used The

Greek work.

in

old

a series of squares on the right side, and two parallel lines connected by slanting stitches on the wrong. To work, draw two parallel stitch

is

lines, putting dots at even distances. Bring out the needle at dot 2, put into 1 and bring out at 3, back into

1

and out at

4,

back into 2 and out at

at 5, back to three

into 5

166.

and out

at 7,

4, into 3

and out

back into 4 and out at 6, into 5 again and out at 8, and so on.

and out

at 6,

STAR-AND-ARROW STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; This

bination

is

com-

extremely pretty, either for borders or all-

over patterns.

The

stars

and arrows should be two

different colours.

167


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

STAR-AND-FLAG STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Similar

167. stitch,

but with ornamental

stars, as in (a) or

STAR STITCHES,

as the

name

star

shapes.

168.

stitches

used

in

forming

generally short strokes.

Stars

may

Loop, Bullion, Railway stitches, as to meet in one centre.

I')<)

(b).

implies, are

also be

etc.,

to Flag

They

are

formed

of

being so worked


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

to

169.

STEM STITCH.— (See

170.

STILE STITCH.

fill

—This

Crewel

stitch

stitch.)

is

used chiefly

up spaces where a few detached groups

are required.

171

of lines


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

172


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

STROKE STITCH.—Similar

171.

to

Rice stitch,

but generally rather larger. Some designs may be entirely in Stroke stitch, as in the illustration.

worked

172.

TACKING STITCH. —The stitch used to secure

the edges of turned-down hems, seams,

keep

the

different

the material.

Long

portions of

etc.,

embroidery

running loose stitches

occasional back stitch.

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and

to

flat

on

with

an


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

TAMBOUR STITCH.— A

173.

Chain stitch made

Tambour by means of a tambour or crochet needle (a) work must always be done in a frame, as the material .

be stretched quite tightly. The round embroidery frames now used take their name from those originally used only for tambour work (b). requires to

174.

TAPESTRY STITCH.— Usually

Gobelin

stitch.

(See Gobelin

J 75

stitch.)

termed


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

175.

TASSEL

heading

STITCH.-

— For

this

stitch

of three or four parallel stitches.

make a Add long

stitches to represent the tassel shape.

176.

TELEGRAPH STITCH.—A

stitch of long

and short

pretty

border

two

colours.

lines, effective in

177

M


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

177.

TENT STITCH.— A

tapestries, is

stitch

much used

sometimes referred to as Petit

a Half-cross

stitch,

in old

stitch.

worked over one thread

It

of the

canvas.

178.

making

THORN STITCH.— One Picots.

(See Picots.)

179

of

the methods of


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

180


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

THREE-LINE STITCH.— A

179.

worked

in straight lines.

This stitch

with a different colour for the centre

180.

three

The

stitches,

is

line of

THREp-POINT STITCH.— A stroke

simple

and suitable

very pretty each group.

stitch for

stitch

formed of

powdering.

strokes need not necessarily be equidistant.

181


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

182


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

181.

TREBLE-DOT STITCH,— This

arranged for a four, five, or

182.

is

grounding or powdering.

more dots may be

TREBLE

FEATHER

Dot

Groups

stitch.)

183

of

similarly used.

STITCH.— This

Feather stitch with clusters of three strokes each. Feather

stitch

is

(See


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

184


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

183.

TREE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; A

stitch

used in working

small branches, or in representing the roughened bark of trees in Natural Needlework. Bring the needle to the upper surface of the material.

Take up as much

desirable on the needle (as for Bullion stitch) the point of the needle out where the thread

Draw

;

as

bring is

(a).

and work along the line backward seaming, taking the

the needle through,

with a slight stitch as in

needle through the material and keeping the thread as uneven as possible to give a roughened appearance (b). Groups of lines worked close together represent bark.

184.

TRIANGLE STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Three

forming a triangular stitch for borders.

185

stroke stitches


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

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A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A 186


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

185.

TRILBY STITCH.— Insert Wind

French knots.

the needle as for

the thread six times round the

point of the needle, then six times round the head, then once round the point again. Hold the stitches firmly with the thumb, and

draw the needle through.

The

clusters of knots with a

result

is

two opposite

plaited thread between.

186.

TRINITY STITCH.—Three

complete

stitch.

stitches

Useful for powderings.

187

for

one


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

187.

TRIPLE

ARROW

stitch placed in upright

STITCH.— This

is

Arrow

and slanting positions to form

borders.

188.

TUFTED STITCH.—The working of this is the

same as

for

Plush

stitch,

which see

189

for description.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

TOO


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

189. ful for

UPRIGHT DIAMOND STITCH.—This

is

use-

work on open canvas where the threads may be

readily counted.

VEINING STITCHES.— The stitches used for veining of leaves may be either Stem, Split, Chain,

190.

the or

any other

stitch

which makes a good and even

191

line.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

192


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

191. is

VARIEGATED FLAG STITCH.— This

similar to Flag stitch, but

192.

stitch

more ornamental.

WATCHGUARD STITCH.—This

is

the stitch

embroidered watch-guards. Procure small rings, and work round and round in close used for making

Buttonhole stitch with strong silk. Add fresh rings where required, and take the stitches over the two rings at the joinings.

193

N


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

193.

water.

WATER STITCH.—A

stitch used to represent

It consists of irregular

long stitches with an

occasional short one.

194.

WAVED CHAIN STITCH.—The

waving

of

the line affords a pleasing change from the ordinary straight line of Chain stitch.

any width.

195

The waves may be

of


EMBROIDERY STITCHES


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

195.

same

WAVED RUCHING STITCH.—This

is

the

stitch as for ordinary niching, but the

being done

in

waves gives variety

in the

running niched edge

when completed.

196.

WEAVING STITCH.—A

stitches used in pillow-lace,

stitches e.g.,

and

term applied to the also to needlework

where the needle executes any kind

darning.

197

of weaving,


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

198


EMBROIDERY STITCHES 197.

WHEAT-EAR STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; So

resemblance to wheat. of spikes

The

stitch

is

with a Chain stitch between.

three parallel lines as a guide.

on the centre

line.

from

called

formed

of

its

two rows

To work, draw

Bring up the needle

Make a Chain

stitch.

Insert the

needle on the right-hand line at the same level as the Chain stitch bring it out in the Chain stitch, and draw ;

the thread through.

Similarly, insert the needle in

the left-hand line and

make another

stitch, bringing out the needle as before in the Chain stitch. This

gives

two series

Chain

stitch.

of spikes, each couple

The

stitch

may

ending within the be worked also with

spikes on one side and Bullion stitches on the other. It is useful for sprays, grass, ferns, etc.

198.

WHIP STITCH.â&#x20AC;&#x201D; See

199

Frilling stitch.


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

200


EMBROIDERY STITCHES

199.

WHEEL STITCHES.—Wheels

are

made

in

various ways, according to the kind of needlework of

— —a

which they form a part wheel (a) Buttonhole :

Button-hole

stitch.

—formed

circle

surrounded

(b)

Bullion wheel

(c)

Plain wheel, as used in lacework.

of Bullion stitches.

(e)

Ornamental wheel, as used in lacework. Loop wheel, formed of loops.

(/)

Plain wheel, formed of single strokes.

(d)

200.

drawn

ZIGZAG STITCH.— Guiding for this stitch,

which

is

201

by

lines

should be

very suitable for borders.


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/

University of California

SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed.

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01114 1917

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