Americansystemof02merw

Page 54

enough of the fullness out to make it set smooth. If it draws away from the elbow, there is not enough fullness there. Again the importance of correct measurements is shown, for if the elbow measure is a little too high or too low, the seam may have to be rebasted and the elbow put in the proper position.

FITTING THE LINING. If

The next important step after the basting is the fitting. the measurements were accurately taken, and the calwere properly done, and great care and basting, there would make an da perfect fit would result, if

culations and drafting

was used

in the putting together

be no alterations to the form you are fitting

is

normal.

to be fitted and have her stand in a natural position. First pin it at the neck and then on down to the bust, allowing the front tracings Do not lap it, but pin it like you to come just together. pin the waist lines together and then seam. Next would a

Put the waist lining on the person

on up to the bust.

Now

notice the bust.

more room by

If

letting out the

appears too tight, allow under arm seams. If too

it

these seams a little larger. Do not fit it too Note the waist in general if too large, take it in on the under arm seams. Sometimes it will be necessary to take some of the surplus out at the darts, but

loose,

make

tight over the bust.

;

have to use your own judgment largely in this. not want the lining to draw cornerwise from the darts to the under arm seams it must fit perfectly smooth

you

will

You do

;

there.

Notice

seem

if

the darts are in the right position.

high, lower the front at the shoulder seam.

they

If they

too low, raise the front at the shoulder seam; if too

may

need running just a

have been basted a

little

little

Sometimes

higher, or they

may

too high.

Next, fit the shoulder. If you have to open the seam, place one hand on the back and the other over the front and smooth them both up at once toward the shoulder, noticing that they fit up to make the neck right. Now look at the arm hole. It should fit quite close. Do not be in too big a hurry to trim it out, for remember 50


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