Americansystemof02merw

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bring the lower edge up to within one-half inch of the fold. Fold through the center again where it was folded at first and shirr it along one inch from the center fold. When the shirr is drawn up there will be a ruche with three tucks even in width. PINKING.

Pinking is used either on bias or straight materials, but the former gives much better results. It is done with a pinking iron which should be very sharp. They come in different sizes and patterns. The edges to be pinked should be folded together with several folds of the goods and basted securely together. If the material is heavy only two or three thicknesses must be cut at one time, but in thin, soft materials several thicknesses can be cut. Place the material on a block of wood and holding the pinking iron in position and strike it very hard with a hammer, being careful to hold the iron level so Do not raise the it will cut through all the thicknesses. iron until you are certain it is all cut, which may be ascertained by slightly pulling the edge v/hich is to come off. If Conit does not come readily give the iron another stroke. tinue until the end is reached.

MODE OF APPLYING TRIMMING. Before shirring any material always divide fourths,

making marks

it

into

at the division points; also divide

the place where the shirring is to be applied into fourths. Then use a thread at least long enough to shirr one-fourth of the material each time, and when applying the shirring to a garment, pin the quarter marks of the shirring to the quarter marks on the garment and adjust the gathers evenly between each two quarter marks, letting the seams come in as inconspicuous places as possible, and baste it. Fasten It may then be stitched or fastened down by hand. the ends of each thread securely and clip off any extra length.

SINGLE SIDE PLAITS. Single plaitings require about three times the length of space where it is to be applied. The plaits are usually cut on the straight of the material and are any length desired.

One edge should be hemmed before 1

66

plaiting.

If

you chance


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