the
Wednesday, February 12, 2014
w o r t n o fr
Escape to
Grunge
Mountain! Tommy’s
Plaid Party
PLUS:
DONNA KARAN CAROLINA HERRERA DENNIS BASSO TORY BURCH VERA WANG MILLY REBECCA TAYLOR AND MORE...
Trim: 21.5inW x 13.5inH
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CHIC Promotion
Catch Him If You Can He may have picked up a camera and joined the street style scene to make friends, but Youngjun Koo isn’t playing games anymore. Perhaps you’ve seen his work in the pages of Harper’s Bazaar and Lucky, or caught him snapping photos while outfitted in Thom Browne? Regardless, Koo is the one to watch this week, as he captures Fashion Week from the sleek interior of a Mercedes-Benz GLA. BY DENA SILVER So we hear you’re the official street style photog for Mercedes-Benz. Tell us more! I’ve been riding around town in a Mercedes-Benz GLA-Class throughout the week capturing street style. The images I capture are a part of an art installation, which is constantly updated with my daily shots of inspiring street style, located in the lobby of the Tents at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Fashionistas can tag #MBFWStreetStyle to their selfies or their photos in front of the mobile unit for a chance to win tickets to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Have you ever captured a shot from a car window? I have a lot of experience shooting from the window of a car. My candid-style photography is based on capturing fleeting moments, so I’m always looking for them. What’s the best way to get noticed? In times like these where the scene is saturated with photographers, a lot of people try to be very different to stand out. Even though a photographer’s job is to capture FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
the façade that people put up, a person’s personality and tendencies are important. How many pics do you snap daily? I normally start shooting shortly after the sun comes up—around 9 a.m.—and I don’t stop until the sun goes down. Each day I take about 2,000 photos, but I need to select 20 to 50 photos a day to contribute to my installation and to keep for myself. Do cars make a good backdrop for street style? Of course! I find the architecture, fit, and finish of a car is very similar to fashion design. Because of the fast-paced nature of MBFW, it’s difficult to control every single backdrop. But a street photographer’s job is to work with what he has and make the best of the scene! Where’s your favorite place to shoot? Instead of seeking out a specific location, I put more importance in finding new spots. My favorite places to shoot are always changing, just like the dynamic nature of fashion. If I were allowed to be a bit more selfish, I would like to go to Sydney more often because there’s a lot of untapped potential there! What do you usually do during the shows? At first, I was not invited to the shows, so I would shoot people before they went in, and I would wait until everybody came back out. Of course I still have to do that, but now some designers are gracious enough to give me an invitation. What do you wear while shooting? When I’m shooting, I tend to wear more comfortable clothes because of the long hours I spend standing in the streets. I find myself wearing Paul Harnden Shoemakers and Thom Browne clothes. Let’s go back to the beginning. When did you first come to New York? I graduated from fashion design school and worked as a merchandise buyer at a store in Korea. At that time I couldn’t speak English at all, and I wanted to study the language, so I decided to move to New York in July 2011. How did you get your start in street style photography? I first started taking photographs to make friends! I came to the United States in order to pursue my dream, but I wanted to establish a good network, too. My first subjects were all of the fashionable folks on the streets of New York. And when did you arrive on the MBFW scene? My first fashion week was September 2011, and I was very impressed with the dynamic environment. I met a lot of great people, and per their recommendation I started attending other Fashion Weeks around the world. CAR: COURTESY
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CATCHING UP With Graydon Carter
Is that much-discussed Gwyneth Paltrow story killed? No! It’s sitting there. There’s no date for it. Are you surprised it got so much attention? Oh, yeah! I’ve never seen anything get so much attention that hasn’t even been published. You and Carolina are old buddies. I came because I’m her friend. It’s a little early in the morning for me. What are your mornings typically like? I work from home for three hours before going into the office. Are you a morning person? Nope. I’m not an afternoon person, either. So, you’re a night owl. Nope. Not a night guy, either. There’s about a 15-minute window that works for me every day—and it changes daily. Any teasers for this year’s VF Oscar party? We’re moving it this year because of traffic and parking issues. Hopefully, it’ll all work out. Carolina Herrera Who are you Fall ’14 excited to see at the party? My kids. They’ve been coming for 21 years.
PLAYING FAVORITES With Lori Goldstein
Emmy Rossum at Carolina Herrera
Is this still the only show you style? I can’t say no to Dennis. I love him and I love fur! Have you noticed anything different about him lately? He’s skinnier, but we love him no matter what size.
your daily dose
FEELING NONPLUSSED With Lindsey Wixson at Carolina Herrera What bores you these days? My whole life is boring! Can you keep a plant alive? I can’t take care of a kid, so I can’t really take care of a plant. Maybe I could keep a cactus alive!
“I’m all new and fit, if you’ve noticed. I went to a spa in Italy: they starve you, Italianstyle. I had mud wraps, facials, and an IV each morning. I’m not sure what was in that IV! I’ve been working out with a trainer three or four times a week since I got back. I’m totally into it!” —Dennis Basso
Dennis Basso Fall ’14
DISCUSSING SELFIES With W’s Stefano Tonchi
FUNNY TALK With Tina Fey Have you ever modeled in a show? I was on the catwalk for years, under the name Iman. Not sure if you remember me? You wore Carolina to co-host the Golden Globes this year! The clothes are so elegant, and they really flatter actual, human women. What do you think of the front-row madness? It’s hilarious! It’s kind of fun. You know what you’re walking into.
Miley’s quite naked on your cover. She wasn’t really naked! The issue focused on people making news in social media; she’s one of the leaders. The idea is, we’re all [taking] selfies. Do you take selfies? My daughters do. They’re only two-anda half years old! Did you learn anything new about Miley? I didn’t know she had such a blue-blooded background, and that Dolly Parton was her godmother. That was quite surprising!
Mary J. Blige Gets Grilled By June Ambrose for The Daily! June: What brings you to Dennis Basso? Mary: Oh, man! The man himself! The furs! The runway! I can’t wait to see what’s coming down the runway. June: How would you describe him? Mary: I love him. He’s so calm and soothing. He’s lovable. June: He’s a teddy bear. If Dennis were a song… Mary: Ooooooh. June: “Real Love”? Mary: “Sweet Thing”! June: Do I suck as a journalist? Mary: [Laughs] You’re too fabulous to be a journalist. June: Thank you, Mary! I quit!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Front-Row Beauty: ALL ABOUT THE INDIVIDUAL! Makeup artist Yadim for Maybelline New York created personalized looks for the models—and “real people”—who walked at DKNY, asking each one what feature they preferred to play up. “I wanted to stay true to their personality,” he said. Whether it was a bright pout covered in Color Sensational Lip Color in Red Revival or a smoky-eye courtesy of the Master Smoky Shadow-Pencil in Black Smoke, the one constant on everyone’s lashes was Pumped UP! Mascara (out in May).
GETTY IMAGES (12); FIRSTVIEW (3); B FA N YC . C O M ; M AY B E L L I N E : C O U R T E S Y
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2/10/14 3:51 PM
WHO KNEW... With Kate Lanphear
Mi x Fix
What was your first job? I was a ‘sandwich artist’ at Subway. How was the pay? Minimum wage, but I also got free sandwiches! That was the draw. What do you think when you see a Subway now? I get really hungry. What do you like there? My go-to is the Cold Cut Combo. DONNA KARAN Can’t beat the price. How often do you eat there? Not often enough!
PLUS! Your First Gigs, Revealed
Andrew Bevan: “I worked at Bagel Junction in Lakewood, Colorado. I’d spread cream cheese and cut bagels. I almost lost a finger a couple of times.” Cindy Weber Cleary: “I worked in a Mexican import store. It had embroidered blouses, Baja hoodies, and silver jewelry.” Billy Reid: “I was a lifeguard at a country club and a 16-year-old bartender at the same time.” Bryanboy: “I’ve never had an employer. My first job after high school was designing websites. My first client was my mom’s friend, who was a dentist.” Julie Macklowe: “I wanted to work at Taco Bell, but my parents wouldn’t let me. They sent me to summer school instead.”
front row
Gettin’ it Daily!
Editor in Chief, CEO
Brandusa Niro Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Christopher TennantEddie Roche Executive Editor Deputy Editor
Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov TOMMY HILFIGER Fashion News Editor “Hopefully, I’ll be talking Paige Reddinger about how many Grammys I’ve got.”—Rita Ora Writer Reporters on where she’ll be in 30 years. ☛ “I love DonDena Silver, Julie Zigos na! It looked good to me. The clothes and colors Contributing Editor were beautiful—but what do I know?!”—Hugh Sarah Horne Grose Jackman ☛ “Donna transformed the way workArt Director Teresa Platt ing women dress. She pioneered comfort over Contributing Photographer constricting fashion. All the mothers in our neighGiorgio Niro borhood had those jersey bodysuits!”—T’s EIC Contributing Photo Editors Deborah Needleman ☛ “Everybody thinks I’m Jessica Athanasiou-Piork, Shane Cisneros a prima donna, but when they meet me, they’re Contributing Copy Editor pleasantly surprised.”—Victoria Beckham at a Jean Rhodie Parsons Q&A on Monday eve.☛ I love the ’80s: the Imaging Director crazy side parts, super-tan skin, and hardcore rock George Maier ’n’ roll.”—Jessica Hart. ☛ “I like when it’s clean, but Contributing Imaging Assistant when it starts getting New York-y, not so much.” Mihai Simion
HEARD
—Tommy Hilfiger on snow. ☛
HAUTE HOMMES Nothing like a fresh cut: The mods at men’s showings like Ernest Alexander and Lucio Campos got clean-faced thanks to Conair for Men’s Fast Cut Pro. As for the perfect antidote to the 5 o’clock shadow? A once-over with the Conair I-Stubble. Polished visages!
TREASURE HUNTING With Laura Fluhr and Tamara Fluhr-Gates of Michael’s on Madison Your consignment haven is celebrating 60 years! Laura Fluhr: Yes, Michael’s was started in 1954 by my dad in the same location we’re still in! We’ve seen the consignment industry evolve since then. Now we run an online shop, too. Tamara Fluhr-Gates: We focus on current, pristine designer items, less than two years old and in excellent condition. Any exceptions, age-wise? Tamara: There are three designers who hold secondary market value, regardless of time: Chanel, Hermès, and Pucci. What’s the most amazing piece you’ve received recently? Laura: A pink ostrich Birkin bag. Also, a Louis Vuitton runway bag that didn’t show up in any of their retail locations. It had studs and fur. We had to refer to runway photos to figure out where it was from! How do you ensure
the
nothing’s faux? Tamara: All brands have tell-tale signs of authenticity: Balenciaga uses a certain grommet and Chanel has their hologram. What’s the best piece you’ve snapped up at Michael’s? Laura: I scored an 18-karat-gold and diamond Chanel bracelet that I’ll be buried with. Tamara: I have a jumbo Balenciaga motorcycle bag in a gorgeous light blue that I just love. Do you often shop at the store? Laura: Tammy and I only shop in the store, except for intimate apparel… Tamara: …and workout clothes!
W TEAM CHATTER With Edward Enninful and Karla Martinez Who haven’t you seen at fash week? Edward Enninful: I haven’t seen Derek Blasberg. Karla Martinez: What are you talking about? He sat behind you at Carolina Herrera! Edward: I guess I’ve seen him, then. Karla: But we’ve barely seen Edward. Monday was his first day at fashion week. Edward: I haven’t seen Stefano, either! It’s his first day, too. Edward, where have you been? Edward: Working for DvF. Who’s the best athlete in fashion? Edward: Who’s that girl that I love from Karla Otto who works out like crazy? Karla: Debra Thom. Edward: That’s what she lives for! I see her working out seven days a week, in every gym, in every city, morning, noon, and night. Karla: Same with us. Edward: Well, Michael Carl does an ab class in Paris...
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Wednesday, February 12, 2014
front row
Escape to
Grunge
ountain! M Mountain! Tommy’s
Plaid Party
PLUS:
DONNA KARAN CAROLINA HERRERA DENNIS BASSO TORY BURCH VERA WANG MILLY REBECCA TAYLOR AND MORE...
ON THE COVER:
Sasha Luss in Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2014 photographed by Firstview. G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 8 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ( 4 ) ; F I R S T V I E W ( 3 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 2 ) ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
Š2014 Maybelline LLC.
RUNWAY
Fall 2014
TOMMY
HILFIGER What to wear to the ski chalet this winter? Tommy’s grunge-inspired mountain wear, of course! Layers and layers of colorful plaids, quilted puffers, shearlinglined coats with oversize pockets, and knit ponchos will be de rigueur for next winter’s polar vortex.
DONNA KARAN Happy 30th, Donna! For the American design icon’s anniversary this year, she paid tribute to New York City with the ultimate urban glam girl’s wardrobe. That meant dramatic chiffon gowns, statement-making fur coats, and plenty of black, like a saucy blazer paired with thigh-high boots that came sans pants.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
GETTY IMAGES (10); FIRSTVIEW
©2014 Maybelline LLC.
S:10.25”
RUNWAY
Fall 2014 CAROLINA
HERRERA Classic ’60s cuts mixed with fur accents and topped off with a few tall pillbox hats composed Herrera’s Fall runway. Her uptown clientele will adore looks like a navy geometricprint swing jacket with matching pants topped off with a gray fur stole for midday lunch at Fred’s. And her signature chic gowns like Karlie Kloss’ off-the-shoulder clingy cherry red number will be a hit on the gala circuit.
THE
DENNIS
BASSO Nothing is chicer than a fabulous fur for winter, darlings! And no one does them better than Dennis Basso. While there were plenty of colored furs, our favorites were a solid white and a hooded lynx fur vest. But let’s not forget about all the redcarpet-ready gowns Basso sent down the runway. A strapless Aline white gown with paint strokes would be simply divine on a few upcoming Oscar nominees, non? FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
HERRERA: GETTY IMAGES; BASSO: FIRSTVIEW
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RUNWAY
Fall 2014 TORY
BURCH
Russian princess meets schoolgirl. On Burch’s runway that notion didn’t have the naughty connotations it otherwise might. Girls in kneehigh stockings wore button-down shirts and tunic dresses. A slouchy weekend pant look was worn with a bejeweled navy cardigan, à la russe. But it was the tzarina muffs that gave the crowning touch!
VERA WANG
Wang’s wicked girl is too cool for school. Dressed in a sheer floor-length plaid shirtdress over matching leggings with a boyfriend blazer thrown on top, this girl wouldn’t be caught dead above 14th street. She can toss on preppy elements like an argyle sweater and a plaid kilt-inspired skirt, then top them off with opera-length leather gloves and make it look slightly, and oh-sodesirably, goth. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
FIRSTVIEW
RUNWAY
Fall 2014
REBECCA
TAYLOR Slouch reigns supreme chez Taylor. Wide-leg pants, cozy knits, flats, and oversize cocoon coats are the must-haves of the season, and for the feminine downtown femme, her take on the trend hit just the right note. Outerwear in icy blues, metallic peaches, and pinkish nudes stole the spotlight.
MILLY Michelle Smith was inspired by ballerinas this season, but the look wasn’t literal. Tulle and flouncy silk skirts were paired with blazers or Mongolian fur vests. A pewter metallic coat shone its own special edge on Milly’s delightful femininity. This collection certainly danced down the runway!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
GETTY IMAGES (10); FIRSTVIEW (2)
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CHIC Exec
THE QUEEN OF
E-COUTURE
Savvy shoppers take note: Zappos is tackling luxury on its own terms, and e-commerce has never been easier. By placing a heavy focus on customer service, Zappos Couture lets you order your Versace gown and wear it soon. With Jennifer Sidary at its helm and André Leon Talley cooking up an e-mag for the site, this is one URL you’ll want to get familiar with, stat! BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO Can you give us the 411 on Zappos Couture, please? We started a separate luxury website attached to Zappos.com in 2004 by selling only footwear, and now we’ve grown to include every category. Since the brands want to sit with their luxury partners, we decided to place them on a separate platform with its own look and feel. It’s really been an industry’s well-kept secret. And what brands do you offer? Some of our biggest brands are Kate Spade New York, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Vivienne Westwood. Our CEO, Tony Hsieh, is all about customer service and selection. We like to represent the brand and show different options that the customer might not find anywhere else. We like customer service! We actually believe that customer service is the new luxury. We offer free shipping, free return shipping, and a 365-day return policy. All of that really allows the customer the opportunity to take chances. We also have a dedicated 800 number you can call 24/7, which is really nice for us busy women! What do you do as the head of Zappos Couture? I started in 2007, when they hired me as a buyer. Since then I’ve developed a team of buyers in the men’s, women’s, and children’s categories. I oversee all categories including apparel, footwear, handbags, jewelry, and everything in between. In addition, I oversee all marketing for the site and I act as the liaison between the site and our development team. Sounds like you’re busy! How often are you jetting for the gig? The better question would be how often am I home? I fly over 200,000 miles a year, and I spend most of my time in New York. But I also spend time in London, Milan, and Paris, with a few short trips to L.A. every now and then. Where’s your favorite work destination? I’m Italian, so I feel like I’m home when I’m in Italy. I spend so much time in Milan that I can walk down the street and run into people I know!
Are you conversant in Italian, at least when it comes to fashion terms? A little bit. I think the most important term in Italian is Quanto costa?, which means ‘How much does it cost?’ I know enough Italian to get myself around and participate in conversation at dinner with Italians. What’s the best piece you’ve scored on Zappos Couture? An amazing Vivienne Westwood sweater, it’s orange, yellow, and fluorescent pink, and I always feel good in it. It makes me look tan, and people smile when they see these beautiful bright colors. What are the challenges of your job? Finding enough hours in the day to get everything done! I never like to say no, so I try to take on any project that comes across my desk. And I really love spending time with my team; I wish I had more time to spend with them. What is your 10-year plan for Zappos Couture? We want to become the luxury destination online. Because of that, we don’t have a lot of contemporary brands on our site. That also makes high-end brands comfortable with selling to an internet-only company. What is the corporate culture like at Zappos? The old City Hall building in downtown Las Vegas just became our new campus, and it’s a lot of fun. Now we’re in this big building, and our merchandising team is all in one room. Zappos is such a happy work environment, so we’re all like family and we have a great time. We have a total ‘work hard, play hard’ mentality. André Leon Talley is the site’s artistic director. Did you create that position for him? We did! André’s team didn’t know we had a couture site, and when they found out, they reached out to talk about a possible partnership with him. We met them in June and just created this position for him. Since he hasn’t been at Vogue, I’ve really missed his work, and a lot of brands I’ve talked to have said the same thing. I grew up watching him in fashion and in the front row of fashion shows for so many years. How much free rein is he given with the site? I don’t like to put a creative person in a box, so I think the best way to approach
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the partnership is to let André be creative and do what he wants. It’s very exciting to watch him in action and let him talk about fashion! Does that mean he also picked the title of the e-mag, ZeeCee? Everything you see in ZeeCee is really created by him. He has named all of the pages, and I’m sure he’s probably thinking of new ideas as we speak. Will you be sitting front row with André at any shows? We’re going to the European shows together, and that would certainly be a dream of mine! Has ALT taken a jaunt to Vegas yet? He has never been here, except to travel through the airport. So he’s planning a Vegas trip in April, when he will come to Zappos and speak to our company. We
literally just booked the date, so we’re only starting the planning now. Will André join you in the buying process? We’re already in the midst of buying Fall 2014, and we have him involved in the process. When we do our next photo shoot, we want André to feature a lot of the products he sees on the runway that he gets inspired by. What is your favorite part of ZeeCee? I have to tell you, I do say the word dude a lot. So when he named a section ‘Dude of the Month,’ I got really excited. I do think Zappos Couture is more down-to-earth than other luxury websites, so I think it really fits into our culture. And of course I’m a huge fan of Marc Jacobs!
Customer service is the new luxury.
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$99.99 ZAC Zac Posen small wallet
$136 Diane von Furstenberg Gwen sunglasses
$136 Diane von Furstenberg Madison sunglasses
$695 Missoni multi strap leather sandal
$495 Missoni crochet wave and leather strap sandal
$1,950 Salvatore Ferragamo 21D570 Sofia bag
$550 ZAC Zac Posen Eartha top handle bag $325 ZAC Zac Posen Claudette tassle clutch
CHIC Move
EVEN STEPHEN Harper’s Bazaar’s new executive editor, Stephen Mooallem, formerly of Interview, might not be the most quotable or quirky editor in fashion, but he definitely gets the job done. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
How did you end up at Bazaar? It was something [editor in chief] Glenda Bailey and I had been speaking about for some time. I had been at Interview for almost 11 years, which sounds like a long time, but I actually got to work with a lot of different people. I had already done a lot there. I started when I was pretty young. So you felt ready to leave? There were other things I wanted to do that you couldn’t really do at Interview, and this job offered the chance to work with another set of great people, like Glenda and [publisher] Carol Smith, who do a tremendous job, and [creative director] Stephen Gan, whom I’ve always admired from afar. Those things, combined with the way Bazaar has transformed itself dramatically in the past couple of years, were too much to pass up. What were the pros and cons? It’s very different, so it was obviously something I thought long and hard about. But once I came to the conclusion that this was what I wanted to do, it was very easy. How fashion-y are you? At this point I feel very, very comfortable in the fashion world. This is a deep dive in different ways. It’s more of a pure women’s fashion book versus Interview, which was always sort of men’s and women’s equally. There’s a very defined audience for this magazine, and it expects certain things. Bazaar has always been about creating incredible imagery, but there’s also that strong service element. There’s a lot of warmth and humor, and it has its own very specific perspective. That was very attractive to me. Will you miss the men’s stuff? There’s so much going on here that I’m not really thinking about missing anything right now. How’s the downshift from EIC to executive editor been? It’s actually kind of great. This is a very different project. If I were going from Interview to a magazine that was similar, it might feel a little more dramatic, but Bazaar is a different animal, with a much bigger audience. I think the job that Bazaar is here to do, and the way it’s positioned in this company and within the world of fashion books, is just really interesting. Scale is part of it, being part of a big company. What’s Glenda like as a boss? Great. Perfect. Super open, super warm. I think one of the things that’s really gratifying about working with
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her so far is her enthusiasm for the subject. It’s really fun to work with, and work around. You’re one of the few guys at Bazaar. How’s that going? I’m not sure what the head count is, but, yes, we’re definitely outnumbered. But it’s all just smart people here, people who really enjoy what they do and have a lot of passion for the magazine. You were a bit of a surprise pick for this gig. Thoughts? I think I probably come to it with new eyes in a certain sense. This magazine has a tremendous legacy as a fashion magazine but also as real cultural barometer. In addition to the service and the beauty and the news, it’s always been on the pulse of what’s happening culturally. That’s sort of the stuff I’m here to work on. I had some good luck with that in the past at Interview. Translating the zeitgeist? Yeah. This magazine has a tremendous history of working with people like Salvador Dalí, Francis Bacon, Andy Warhol—the list goes on and on, all the way to Cindy Sherman. They’ve done a lot of things like that. One of the things I’m going to be focused on a lot is features coverage and how the magazine tackles things in the context of fashion—the fashionable world that Bazaar covers. The old barriers that existed between fashion and the art world and the music world and the film world have dissolved. They’re all combining and mixing and coming together in many different ways. Musicians want to be fashion designers, designers get inspired by musicians, artists create works for fashion houses. I’ll be working with that energy and making sure the pages of Bazaar reflect that.
At this point, I feel very, very comfortable in the fashion world.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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chic Scout
fixer The
in-house communications capo Patrick McGregor has lent his PR magic to brands like Versace and BcBG, and even moved to Milan to work for Donatella. After a stint on “Planet Versace,” however, he’s back in Manhattan and putting out his own shingle. he talked to The Daily about his new firm, KP McGregor consulting, and what it can do for you. BY EDDiE ROchE PhOTOGRAPhY BY GiORGiO NiRO What made you decide to go out on your own? It’s a logical progression in my career, but it’s also seeing a need that’s out there. There are a lot of agencies now, and the market is sort of saturated. A lot of companies already have someone in-house who might be a little more junior, who handles the product and the day-to-day. Many times these companies don’t want to hire an agency and be one of 20, 30, or 40 clients, since they’re already doing all the basic stuff. What they’re looking for is someone very seasoned and wellconnected with global experience. That’s where I found there was a niche. Expand on that. I’m a fixer, but I’m also a Wizard of Oz. I’m behind the curtain pulling the levers, making things happen, setting up social situations where people can meet and it looks completely organic. No one should know there’s a Patrick McGregor involved. The more they don’t know, the better it is for me. Maybe it would be better if people knew more, but if I’m doing my job well, you don’t know that I’m there. What do you do best? I’ve been able to really help brands—such as Herve Leger and Versace— that needed to be reinvigorated. When I met with Ms. Versace, whom I admire so much, the company was going through some restructuring and I was able to work closely with her on some initiatives to help make the brand more relevant. I’m not talking here about the clothes—she’s a genius at what she does—I’m just talking about different partnerships and tie-ins, like the Lady Gaga partnership and the H&M collaboration, or bringing Atelier Versace back to the Paris runway, which was a really big deal for her. Were you responsible for the Versace and H&M collaboration? It takes a village. I would never take credit for anything, because the first person who should take credit is Ms. Versace. She’s the hardestworking person I’ve ever worked with. The time I spent with her was incredible. Why don’t you call her Donatella? I did call her Donatella when I was with her, but there’s a sense of respect where everyone who works with her refers to her as Ms. Versace. When I got the job, I was really honored. I was so nervous when we first met, but I knew I was going to go in there and ‘get it.’ I just knew. Why? I knew it was the right match, and I knew I could help the company. She is everything you think she is: very glamorous, but also so easy and so sweet. Not like the Maya Rudolph character at all. You moved to Milan for the job. How did that go? It was a challenge. For work, I didn’t really need to speak Italian, but I wanted to learn it out of respect and had a tutor. The first year was great. I think afterward it got a little...[pauses] People would ask me where I lived in Italy, and I would say I was living on a planet called Donatella Versace Versace, filled with Medusas. It was a great place to be, but I didn’t fall in love. I brought my dog, which was fabulous, but it was sort of my dog and me. I dated, but Italian men are tough. Why do you say that? They all have boyfriends, or they’re all married and they don’t tell you and then you find out later. It’s just bizarre. What did you learn from the Italians? I’d like to think my time there taught me to relax a little more, but I’m FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
not so sure. It was like a Woody Allen movie, like when he does a movie in Spain. I’m a hard-core New Yorker. I like action. The work was hard, but there was nothing else to do. Everything closes early in Milan! I did learn from working with Ms. Versace, though. She doesn’t take herself as seriously as you would think. She laughs, and she knows she’s glamorous, and she laughs about it. It was like living in an Ab Fab episode. Nothing she does is simple. It’s all done perfectly. I learned that if you’re going to do something, you do it right. And I’m not talking about money here. I’m talking about always working with the best people, the best makeup artists, the best this, the best that. When did you decide to move back to New York? I was always going to come back. My contract was up, and the company turned a profit, and I just wasn’t happy living in Milan. Did you see the Lifetime movie about Ms. Versace? I did. The quality was really not so good. It was very one-dimensional. The real Donatella is funny, yes, I think they got that. But I think she’s such a complex woman. I had moments with her that were really special. To be with an icon like her, who has been around for so long and been through so much... I’ve been sober for almost 19 years now, and that’s the first thing I told her when I met her. I know how tough it is, and I think she’s amazing. And now you’re starting fresh. Who are some of your clients? Alejandro Ingelmo, Halston, a new upscale swimwear brand Flagpole, the upcoming film directorial debut of Maggie Betts, and the artist Mark Fox, whose solo show is currently at the Robert Miller Gallery in Chelsea. Are you scared going out on your own? I’ve never been less scared in my life. I’ve got nothing to lose. Special thanks to Mark Fox and the Robert Miller Gallery (524 West 26th Street) pAt r I c k M c M u L L A N . c o M
CHIC Spot
RICHIE’S
ROOM
Resto dynamo Richie Notar has been in the hospitality biz since high school, when he mingled with the greats at Studio 54 while his friends were doing homework. After two decades at Nobu, he unveiled his first solo act last year, the über-elegant Harlow, on Park Avenue. We stopped by for a bite. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
How did you pick this location, richie? It was pretty spontaneous. I’d been looking for a space further downtown when a friend told me about a great lease on 56th Street, a beautiful building right next to the Lombardy Hotel that had been empty for 10 years. Now, I grew up in New York, and I’ve never heard of the Lombardy. I really came as a favor to my friend, to be honest. Then I saw the space and heard the backstory: It was built by William Randolph Hearst for [his mistress] Marion Davies. He supposedly even picked out the chandeliers! I fell in love with the architectural integrity of the the place—the glamour, the moldings, and the old clock from 1938— amid all the dust and clutter. talk us through the concept. Well, I was sick of going to all these hipster places and sitting on reclaimed barn doors with moose heads hanging over me, being served by a guy from Mumford and Sons. All of that ‘first come, first served’ stuff isn’t a quality dining experience. It felt like the right time to do something more uptown, fashionable, grownup, and elegant, without being stuffy. How’s the fashion crowd taken to it? Tommy Hilfiger loves the place. He says we should do more Harlows! John Varvatos is a friend of mine, and he dines at Harlow. John Demsey, Heidi Klum, Naomi Campbell, Nicole Miller, and Vivienne Tam have all been in, too. We did Ian Schrager’s daughter’s birthday party. Designers say they feel almost like they’re in Paris—it has that air. Of course, we did The Daily’s first Fashion Media Awards shortly after we opened, too. When Lady Gaga walks through your kitchen with 4-foot-wide hair, it sets a good tone. Chanel had a bash at Harlow, too, yes? They sure did. It was remarkable, and done with military precision. I lined up my staff and said, ‘Do you see this professionalism?!’ They enhanced Harlow with their Chanel-ism. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
“
Studio 54 was my school. In the brotherhood of working there, we were like Playboy Bunnies. Everyone wanted a piece of us.
you named Harlow after your daughter. risky move? I was reluctant, sure. I have thin skin. If somebody said something bad [about the name] in a review, I’d shoot myself in the head. But she was really proud to have her birthday party here. Needless to say, it turned out better than I could have ever dreamed. And she loved having her birthday here. I got a kick out of it, too. Cute! Let’s talk about the menu. Which dishes are the biggest hit
with fashion folk? Probably the grilled branzino with wasabi gremolata, which is our biggest seller overall. They’ll order that or the salmon, with a baby spinach and artichoke salad. The oysters also do really, really well. They’re light, and—let’s be honest— everyone’s concerned about their weight and how they look. sounds Nobu-ian! Listen, I’m coming off the Asian thing after 20 years at Nobu; there’s no going back! What did you do pre-Nobu? I started off as a cook, then got into catering because I got sick of seeing the same people in the kitchen. Ina Garten would call me when she had a big party and needed more people. What did you get out of your catering stint? I learned from the disasters, mostly—the ovens shutting down, inexplicably, or somebody dropping the 50 cupcakes you just spent three days making. But that’s what really separates the men from the boys. You learn how to get over it! It taught me how to fend for myself and keep going when the sh*t hits the fan. Why did you decide to leave the Nobu fold? I felt unchallenged. I wasn’t growing, and if you’re not growing, you’re not living, and if you’re not living, you’re dying. I could’ve stayed and had a fantastic time, but now I’m able to do things outside of soy sauce and chopsticks. Robert De Niro was my partner for 20 years, and we had a great run together. We revolutionized Japanese food around the world! How was De Niro as a business partner? He’s such a worldly guy. He’s been everywhere and seen everything. His stories are remarkable. He doesn’t talk a lot, but he’s one of the most creative, big-hearted, and in-tune people I’ve ever met. That’s what makes him such a wonderful actor: He listens. you worked at studio 54 in high school. take us back! Well, I was 16 years old, way too young to be there, and I’d be watching Steve Rubell and listening to his conversations. I was like a sponge. Studio was my school. We were like Playboy Bunnies. Everyone wanted a piece of us. I had a nickname, Pecker 54. I looked like I hadn’t eaten in years and had this little pageboy haircut.
sounds fun! How’d you get your homework done? I realized early that geometry really wasn’t going to happen for me. Coming off a night hanging out with Andy Warhol, Halston, and Bianca Jagger, it’s tough to focus. My grades suffered a bit, to say the least. any fun Halston memories? The guy was just so suave. He and Pat Cleveland would go to his townhouse on 64th Street to get ready to come to 54: champagne, a little something to eat, whatever stimulated you at the time. What were Halston’s dance moves like? He’d participate in a more regal way. You know how the queen waves her hand? That’s how he danced. I remember he threw a cross-dressing party one year and invited me. I wore my mom’s wig and took my friend along. We drank a quart of beer sitting in the car outside his apartment trying to get up the nerve to go in. Catherine Guinness went dressed as me! She wore shorts and a little vest. How are your dance moves? I was probably a bit better back then. It doesn’t hurt to have a couple of Quaaludes in you. [Laughs] We’ll take your word for it! any plans to open other Harlows? I’ve been asked to, but nothing’s signed yet. Let’s just say it’s likely you’ll see a Harlow outside the city at some point in the future. How’s your Lenox Lounge project in Harlem coming along? I’d love to open in the spring, but the end of summer is more likely. I’m also opening a bakery next door with Dwight Henry, from New Orleans. It’s perfect for Harlem. I think I can do 50 of them around the world. Do you ever get sick of New york? I’m on the fence sometimes. When you start being bitter and yelling at cabs as you cross the street, you know you need a break. Which city could lure you away? I could see moving to London for a year, but I’m not sure I could deal with the weather and all the drinking. My ultimate goal is to buy a farmhouse in Tuscany where I can cook all day and grow old and fat drinking wonderful wine. getty images; imaxtree
CHIC Tech
A VERY PERSONAL STYLIST Fashion site Keaton Row thinks an army of stylists can reinvent e-commerce, one killer outfit at a time. From the sound of it, they’re on their way. BY DENA SILVER
Cheryl Han,
co-founder,
and Elenor Mak,
co-founder
What’s the concept behind Keaton Row? Elenor Mak: Cheryl and I both really care about what we wear, but we’re both fairly busy. Cheryl was always playing the stylist role for her friends and offering fashion advice, and it gave us the idea. Keaton Row offers women access to a free stylist, while also giving a reward to the people who are doling out advice. Before Keaton Row, did you use a stylist? EM: I didn’t have that luxury, and now I know how much I was missing out! Most women have a friend they’re always turning to and asking, ‘What are you wearing? Where did you get that?’ That’s exactly how our site works. Where does the e-commerce component come in? Cheryl Han: We paired with four major retailers: ASOS, Shopbop, Nordstrom, and Les Nouvelles. Retailers are always looking to tap into influential people who bring in meaningful customers, and Keaton Row is that ideal place. We have such a great volume of stylists, and they’re bringing in such great customers, our retailers are willing to compensate us based off the stylist’s sales. The stylists make a commission based off of every sale. You have a background in e-commerce, right? CH: After college I worked at
Dani Stahl,
creative cirector at Keaton Row, style editor-at-large at Nylon and jewelry designer at Lia Sophia How often do your friends turn to you for styling advice? My friends often turn to me for advice, and I can really relate to the stylists at Keaton Row. Before I even got started working in fashion, I loved clothes, and I was always the one that people turned to. What’s your favorite part of the gig? I’ve always loved inspiring and working with people who are really passionate about what they’re doing. What’s your interaction with the stylists on Keaton Row? I’m sort of the queen bee. That includes making videos, giving them tips and inside information, and helping them further their businesses. I also host Twitter chats, and I have a blog on the site where I post my favorite things every month so stylists can see what’s inspiring me right now. How often do you take advice from the lookbooks you create for the site? Every time I make a lookbook, I end up buying something. I really like to keep it true and genuine to things that I really like, so from Nordstrom to Shopbop, Les Nouvelles, and now ASOS, there’s plenty of amazing stuff to want. How do you balance this gig with all your other ones? I think there’s something very relatable to my lifestyle. I’m a stylist who’s running her own business. Juggling different gigs is the way to keep things exciting!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
L’Oréal and spent three years developing e-commerce sites for Shu Uemura and Armani. After that, I managed e-commerce at Clarins. Through working in e-commerce, I saw an opportunity to bring a higher level of personalization. Where do you recruit your stylists? EM: There’s an application process, where you have to put together sample looks, answer questions, and share your social-media background. Our team evaluates the stylists, and if you are accepted, we train you on everything from styling to how to use our site and market your business. How many stylists have you signed up? CH: We have close to 300 active stylists and 10,000 registered clients. ASOS What does Keaton Row mean? CH: We like to say that we’re a modern-day Savile Row, which was the first place busy men went for a bespoke experience. We’re offering a personalized service but making it available online. When in your own life have you needed a stylist most? EM: When I worked for Avon. I remember going to Saks and asking for trendy business clothes and being sent to three separate floors. I was trying to mix and match on my own. If Keaton Nordstrom Row had existed, I would have used it in a heartbeat! Do you have a stylist now? EM: Of course! That’s one of the perks.
Nicole Fasolino, celebrity stylist & Keaton Row stylist Aside from your Keaton Row clientele, who do you style for? Kate Hudson, Elizabeth Olsen, Blake Lively, Cintia Dicker, Jessica Perez, Shanina Shaik, and I also work with Chrissy Teigen and John Legend. How many clients do you have on Keaton Row? I have about 38 clients. Do you approach Keaton Row styling differently from styling a red-carpet client? Absolutely! When I’m working with celebrities and models, they understand that I’m going to push them to the fashion limit. My Keaton Row clients don’t want to look stylized. They want to look like better versions of themselves. What’s your favorite part about being a Keaton Row stylist? I think the site is a genius idea, because so many women are interested in fashion but don’t know how to dress for themselves. So many of my clients are obsessed with fashion, but they don’t necessarily know how to pair their Alexander Wang bag with a pair of jeans. My job is to change that. How frequently do you communicate with your clients? Some clients I only communicate with once a month, but others email me every day! B FA N YC . C O M ( 2 ) ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
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CHIC Musts
“This season I’m going vintage, nostalgic, and effortlessly chic. I’ll definitely be wearing shades from our new CND Open Road Collection, which consists of muted pastels for the modern muse.” —Jan Arnold, CND co-founder
CND VINYLUX An in-salon VINYLUX manicure service typically ranges from $20 to $35 depending on location. The retail prices for VINYLUX Weekly Polish and VINYLUX Weekly Top Coat are $9.90 each.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
The New Open Road Collection
Powder My Nose
Sun Bleached
Desert Poppy
Clay Canyon
Mint Convertible
Sage Scarf
Plus! More Amazing VINYLUX Colors From CND
Water Park
Seaside Party
Grape Gum
Purple Purple
Daring Escape
Tinted Love
Romantique
Tutti Frutti
Rouge Red
Tropix
Gilded Pleasure
Pink Bikini
Limeade
Electric Orange all Photos Courtesy of Cnd
When we heard Vanna White wouldn’t be walking in The Heart Truth show due to a flight cancellation, we thought Fashion Week was ruined. But then the Wheel of Fortune staple and trending style icon gave us a ring from her dressing room. She’s as perfect as we always dreamed! BY EDDIE ROCHE
Miley Cyrus recently told W that “everyone dresses like Vanna White.” How does that make you feel? It’s really fun. I’ve worn over 6,000 different gowns on our show. It’s like putting on a fashion show every single day! I put on a gown and go out there and model it for 30 minutes. Some people tune in just to see what I’m going to wear. Who are some of the designers you’ve worn over the years? Gosh, I’ve probably worn everybody. I’ve been doing this for 30 years. Nicole Miller, Kay Unger, Theia, and Joanna Mastroianni, everybody. Do you have a favorite? I don’t, but I prefer clothes that are comfortable. What about Carolina Herrera? Oh my God, I love her! Have you ever worn anything twice? No, never. Why not? When I have the opportunity to wear something new every day, why would I? Duh! What happens to your dresses after you wear them? They go back to the designer because they’re all samples. What do the viewers say about your wardrobe? People write in and ask where they can get the dresses. People also see me not dressed up when I’m at the airport in my sweats. When I’m not working on TV, I’m much more casual. They like to see the versatility of that, too. We just discovered Vannastyle.com. Can you tell us a little about it? It’s a site people can go to and see the dresses I’ve worn or learn things about me that they might not know. They can also ask me questions. Have you ever been to New York Fashion Week? I have not. You thought that I had been, right? We were hoping to finally meet you! Have you ever been to Milan or Paris? I even went to a taping of Wheel of Fortune in Paris. I’ve been to all the designers’ stores, but it was just for fun. Have you ever had a major wardrobe malfunction? There have been zippers that have broken in the middle of shows, a strap breaking— just silly things like that. Is there an outfit you’re embarrassed about? Um, not really. I’m the kind of person who knows things will go wrong, so I just have fun with it and don’t take it too seriously.
“
What are your favorite colors? I like pastels. They’re fun, alive, and pretty. And your favorite pastel? Pink. What kind of shoes do you wear on the show? Platforms. I don’t wear extremely expensive shoes, usually. My shoes at home are by better designers. I love Louboutins. Your hair in the ’80s was a lot larger Vanna circa 1985 than it is now. Do you think that look will ever come back? I think everything always comes back. What do you think when you see pictures with your hair like that? I think how big everything was in the ’80s. In your memoir you talk about using the shower as a water pik. Do you still do that? I don’t do that anymore. We all do silly things when we’re young. They talked about your book on The Golden Girls. They did? Tell me! Dorothy [Bea Arthur] recommends reading your autobiography. She calls it a hell of a book. Awwww, that’s so sweet! What ever happened to the Vanna White dolls? We don’t make them anymore, but I still have some in my garage. How often do people approach you and ask for a vowel? All the time! That’s probably the most common question people ask: Can I buy a vowel? Does that get annoying? Not really. Have you ever let anyone buy one? No, only on the show. We’re sorry you missed the Heart Truth show. Why did you want to do it? When I was a little girl my mother was very much involved with the Heart Association. Once a year she would go to the local radio station and literally stay up for the whole time that the telethon was going on. So it is very special to me in that way. I was doing it in her honor. You dress was going to be by Austin Scarlett. Did you have a lot of input? Not really. I just didn’t want anything strapless. Usually gowns are so heavy, so wearing a strapless one is tough. They always want to fall down. Thanks for never falling down, Vanna! We love you. I love you, too.
I’ve worn over 6,000 different gowns on Wheel of Fortune. It’s like putting on a fashion show every single day!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
GETTY IMAGES
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