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monday, septembe r 10

, 2012


Front Row


& discuss








and ! diane von furstenberg spring 2013 runway

behind the Scenes With the kingmakers!

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SEPTEMBER 19.20.21 2012



It’s amazing for Romy to have Carine as a grandmother. She’s forever young! She told me to enjoy my new motherhood. —doutzen kroes Riccardo Tisci, Carine Roitfeld, and Stephen Gan

Bar Refaeli


I’m forgetting that I’m in a museum! This feels like a nightclub, except there’s priceless art all around.

your daily dose

—Karlie Kloss

With Daily cover girl Carine Roitfeld

Lindsey Wixson

When it comes to anything Carine does with fashion, I see it, I believe it, I trust it, I want to buy into it. —Andre J.


“I haven’t actually seen the magazine. I’ve gotta be dumb as shit. She’s so specific—she probably picked out the stock.”—Chadwick Bell at the CR Fashion Book launch party at the Frick. ☛ “The first time I came here, I was helping out on a Spice Girls video for ‘Spice Up Your Life’!’”—Jenna Lyons at the Alexander Wang afterparty, which was held in the former Emigrant Bank space. ☛ “I’ve been dancing to Graceland every morning!”—Waris Alhuwalia at the Wang party. ☛ “I was panicked that I wouldn’t be able to get through all of the Nancy Drew and Hardy Boys books before I turned 12, so I just read them all straight through. It took about five months.”—Deborah Needleman. on her geekiest phase, at Wang. ☛ “I’m freaked out by anything that could have hair or feathers. I like a skinless breast, though.”—Ariel Foxman, when asked how he likes his chicken wings. ☛ “One of my prints is called Hawaii 5-0, but I didn’t write that on the program, because I thought it would age me.”—Rebecca Taylor at her show. ☛ And! Buzz about Deborah Needleman taking the top job at T is almost deafening. Her biggest supporter at the Times? Cathy Horyn.

Thoughts on your Media Issue cover? It’s not every day that you get the cover of The Daily! My daughter Julia thinks I should get it framed. It’s the best compliment to have a Daily cover. I can’t think of a bigger welcome to New York. I take this as a good luck sign! Love your dress! Azzedine Alaia made it for me. It’s very, very simple, and very French. Why did you pick the Frick for your bash? I haven’t heard about Fashion Week parties at the Frick, and we like to do something new! The Frick feels very European to me, and, of course, I like that.

Isabeli Fontana


Scott Sternberg


BEER ALERT! Izabel Goulart and Alessandra Ambrosio

PARISIAN GETAWAY! With Joseph Altuzarra Jessica Chastain


With Mandy Moore at Band of Outsiders

Caroline Sieber

What’s your favorite place to go in Paris? Deyrolle, the taxidermy store! What’s your latest art discovery? I’m not arty. Gotcha. How was your summer? I took a trip to Capri with my boyfriend and got to sleep 20 hours a day!


HEIGHT DISCREPANCY! Aziz Ansari and Tyson Chandler

How’s life? Great! I loved that people were relaxed and drinking beer at Billy Reid. Who in the fashion industry would you love to swap places with for a day? I don’t know if I’m knowledgeable about those kinds of people.... When you’re not at home or working, where can we find you? I like to hike in Griffith Park in California. Where would we never find you? At the mall.

ON THE COVER: Diane von Furstenberg Spring 2013 runway shot by Edward James T H I S PA G E : B FA N YC . C O M ( 1 1 ) ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 9 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M


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Mick Rock and Katrina Darling


front row I think some of the models here could be my children! —Carolyn Murphy

A Karlie Kloss/ Erin Heatherton sandwich!

Henrik Lundqvist

With Jason Wu

Suzy Biszantz and Petra Nemcova

How did you convince Carolyn to walk? She is my idol. When I moved to America, she was in every fashion magazine and then years later, I met her. She was perfect for this collection! We saw you jumping up and down after your show. I didn’t even know I did until someone told me afterwards!

Art Director Guillaume Bruneau Managing Editor Tangie Silva


Friday parties! Iman took over the Electric Room to launch ☛ John Varvatos has lent his touch to Converse’s “Weapon” leather high-top, so the two toasted at Varvatos’ Bowery store, where Black Rebel Motorcycle Club performed. ☛ And! Jason Wu and La Perla took over the Top of the Standard to celebrate their collab!

Noah Huntley

Julie and Billy Macklowe


Executive Editor Ashley Baker

JASON WU + LA PERLA PARTY your daily dose




Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Associate Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Senior Fashion Writer Maria Denardo Social Media Director Ashley Tschudin Photographer Giorgio Niro Deputy Art Director Teresa Platt Senior Designers Paul Morris, Sheila Prevost Photo Editors Jessica Athanasiou-Piork, Shane Cisneros, Catherine Gargan

The Daily checked in with CFW’s Misty Lister Johnson, director of marketing and communications

When did Charleston Fashion Week launch, and how frequently does it happen? It launched in 2007 and is an annual event in March. In 2013, we’ll mark our seventh year with five days and five nights of runway fashion. How many designers are currently participating? We host 20 competing Emerging Designers and five to eight Featured Designers throughout the week. Highlights have included Chris Benz, Charlotte Hess, Heidi Elnora, Lindsey Carter of TROUBADOUR, Michael Knight, Hunter Dixon, April Johnston, DaA look from Grand Prize vid Yoo, Carmen Marc Valvo, and more. winner Which buyers and editors attend? Hannah Goff Local and regional buyers, including Hampden Clothing, Gwynn’s of Mt. Pleasant, Belk, and more. In addition to many regional editors and bloggers, CFW has hosted Anne Slowey, Derek Blasberg, Southern Living, Delta Sky, Red Bulletin,, ESPN, and the Today show. How much business is done during the event? Hotels, restaurants, and retailers are impacted dramatically. The College of Charleston’s Office of Tourism Analysis & Department of Hospitality reported a $2.4 million impact on the City of Charleston during CFW 2012. We have reported 49 million+ media impressions from all over the world. Which VIPs attend? We’ve had Chris Benz, Fern Mallis, Vanessa Lachey, Cameron Silver; fashion designers Michael Knight and Lindsey Carter; and designer K. Cooper Ray, and many more!

Brandusa Niro Editor in Chief, CEO

Production & Distribution Director Allison Coles

Natalie and Elliot Bergman

John Varvatos Daisy Fuentes

TRAIN ALERT! With Grace Coddington

We frequently see you on the subway. It’s the only way to get around! Do Grace superfans approach you? Yeah. I like it because I can always jump off if I get bored!


Rachel Gordon’s finale dress made of moss, fern, and orchids

You broke your foot! How? I stumbled in high heels and walked for six blocks. The next thing I know, it’s fractured. Three months in bed! What did you do in bed? I read a lot, but I didn’t eat too much. I couldn’t exercise so I didn’t want to be miserable and fat. How do you feel tonight? Like Honey Boo Boo!

g e t t y i m a g e s ( 9 ) ; b f a n y c . c o m ( 4 ) ; p a t r i c k m c m u ll a n . c o m ; c f w : l e i g h m o o s e / s i d e ya r d s t u d i o s ; w u r u n way: v i ta l a g i b a l o w

Imaging Specialist George Maier Copy Editors Joyce Artinian, Joey Meyer, Stefanie Schwalb Production Manager Del Pastrana Imaging Assistant Megan Herlihy Vice President, Publisher Louis A. Sarmiento Advertising Director Maritza Smith Marketing Director Fred Miketa Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Assistant Anjali Raja Distribution Manager Shomari Hines Distribution Supervisors Ben Woldoff, Nick Mathis To advertise, contact: Louis Sarmiento, (212) 467-5875,

DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row, Inc. publication. Copyright 2012©. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva,135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020. Printed by Vanguard Printing, LLC., William Sherman.

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© 2012



Jack Huston and Shannan Click

With Peter Som’s mom Helen Fong

Som with Sanya Richards-Ross

Behind the steam


Allison Williams

your daily dose

With Mandy Moore


We heard a rumor that you are obsessed with pelicans. I can just sit and watch them for hours! If I had a pet, I’d name him Pelly, and keep him on the porch and teach him to talk. What were you in a past life? I majored in P.E., and I wanted to be a football coach. Now I coach my son’s baseball team. I love a whistle!

THE DAILY WONDERS… If fashion bloggers were blog-less, how would they earn a living?

Eric Wilson: Working in retail. Peter Som: Fashion bloggers by nature are very entrepreneurial. I’m sure they can figure something out! Ty Hunter, Beyoncé’s stylist: Probably stylists? Hamish Bowles: Flipping burgers. Amy Fine Collins: Painting toenails. Hilary Rhoda: Obviously something creative. Teachers! June Ambrose: Dog walkers. They’re recluses, they like quiet time, and they make their own schedule. Bryanboy: We’d be prostitutes. Rumi Neely: Or destitute!


Where to Drink Right This Minute!

From Bon Appétit’s Feast or Fashion team Entertaining industry moguls, or simply desperate for a cocktail? These super-cool downtown cocktail bars are more like a nightcap for the senses. Little Branch And a pork bun wouldn’t hurt, This discreet nook off Seventh while you’re at it! 207 2nd Avenue (look for the door Ave., (212) 254-3500 with the tiny placard) opens Maison Premiere up into a dimly lit den serving Test the Brooklyn waters for a a Manhattan true N’awlinsthat will knock esque oysteryour trendy and-absinthe socks off. 20 affair. Cocktails Seventh Ave. such as the rye South, (212) whiskey–based 929-4360 Frenchmen PDT Roulette will Walk into keep you the phone crossing the booth and be bridge for transported more. 298 to a world of Bedford speakeasy Ave., (347) glory. 113 St. 335-0446 Marks Pl., Experinr. First Ave, mental (212) 614Cocktail 0386 Club Booker & Dax Nicolas de Soto’s 14-cockFrom the Momofuku gang tail menu brings comand mixologist Dave Arplex, Parisian flair to this nold, comes wildly inventive buzzed-about new spot. 191 cocktail goodness—shaken, Christie Street, madameanstirred, or carbonated. Don’t dmonsieur@experimentalmiss the bubbly gin and tonic.

What was he like as a little boy? As soon as he was able to pick up a pencil at two or three years old, he would be drawing a head and a big dress. Did he get good grades? Oh, yeah! He only struggled with science. Ever think he’d end up a wellknown fashion designer? It was the idea I always knew of women on the he’d end up in verge—elegance fashion because with a dark twist, my mother used to Brooke Astor meets love jewelry, and evCourtney Love. ery time she’d come You know, I think a visit, he would always glass of rosé may make comments about be in my future! her jewels. He was —Peter Som always designing clothes. The first time he designed he was 16!

Lisa and Jen Salzer


Lashes for Days! If you’re angling for loads of lashes, take a cue from the Lacoste Spring 2013 runway and brush overtop curled lashes with The Colossal by Volum’ Express in Glam Brown mascara from Maybelline New York. Makeup artist Mayia Alleaume went with a “very simple and fresh” beauty look, “with a bit of subtle character.” A structured brow, achieved with Eye Studio Master Shape Brow Pencil, adds to the drama. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

b fa n yc . c o m ( 1 1 ) ; b o o k e r & d a x : g a b r i e l e s ta b i l e ; c o u r t e s y m ay b e l l i n e n y

Belvedere is a quality choice. Drinking responsibly is too. Belvedere Vodka 40% ALC./VOL. (80 PROOF) 100% neutral spirits distilled from rye grain. Š2012 Imported by MoÍt Hennessy USA, Inc., New York, NY.

Gettin’ it a D ily!

Miss Piggy

Geoff Day and Magic


your daily dose With Frida Gustavsson and Joan Smalls



☛ “Okay, fine, I drunk dial everyone!”—Michelle Ochs at her show. ☛ “I’ve come with such an open mind that I don’t know what to expect.”—Hailee Steinfeld at Peter Som. ☛ “Keep the lid closed.”—Max Osterweis’ best BBQ tip. ☛ “I feel much better now that I’ve had my glass of champagne.”—a post-show Nicole Miller. ☛ “Let’s bring back turbans, too. They’re the perfect way to cover up a bad hair day.”—Lisa Salzer, at Lulu Frost’s Lets Bring Back celebration at the Carlyle.

We wanted to shake up everything people think of Ruffian, and we were inspired by We wanted to bring Brooklyn. —Claude Morais couture to the street...and to Williamsburg!

LIVE from the


DESIGNING WOMAN! With Kate Bosworth

Hailee Steinfeld

How was your summer? Really good! My fiancé and I went to see my family in Boston. Is your own line in your future? It’s a possibility, but because I know the work that goes into this, it would really have to be specific. Any ideas? Yes, but I’m keeping it under wraps. What would you name your line? I don’t have that detail to give yet!

LOVE STORY! With Frida Gustavsson

How was your summer? I worked a bit too much, then my boyfriend and I went to Kenya for 20 days. Unreal! Did you safari? I saw two lions hunting, killing, and eating a zebra. We saw elephants, cubs, leopards! Who is your boyfriend? A Swedish guy! He’s a copywriter. We live together in Stockholm.

THE DAILY WONDERS… What’s the geekiest thing about you? Rebecca Taylor: I’m blushing! When I was 14 or 15, my sister did a fashion shoot with me as a model. I had braces and was into British New Wave bands. Shocking, shocking, shocking. Scott Sternberg: At 18, I had a mullet and I wore black tennis shoes and really big clothes. It was a rough time. Kyle Anderson: I watch Mean Girls every weekend. Lynn Yaeger: I watch old episodes of 90210 over and over again. On Saturday, it’s on at 9, and during the week it’s on from 10 to 12. Dylan’s my favorite. Of course, we’re going to get married. Brandon was never for me. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

—Brian Wolk

Joan Smalls and Alex Morgan Rose Byrne and Cory Kennedy

Lil’ Kim

E DOG! TH IC AG M H IT W W IE RV TE IN N A Mercedes-Benz’s Geoff Day’s Labrador is an experienced fashion plate! Here’s his take on the week... What brings you to MBFW? I am the only credentialed dog at Fashion Week, and it’s my third year here. I get a lot of attention, a lot of petting, and people want to take my picture. I’m really quite a shy dog, though; I’m happy to hang backstage! Does your lustrous wagger ever get in the way? My long tail is like high heels: I find it to be quite a useful weapon for getting people out of the way. How did you pick your current coif color? Brown is the new black! I wear brown in town, brown in the country, brown all year round. You travel quite light for shows— where’s your bag? I have a man named Geoff who carries all that stuff for me. He’s like my personal butler.

Do you stress eat? Sometimes I’ll splurge and have some three-day-old pizza lying in the street. That’s a real treat! Are you pro-pelt or pro-PETA? As long as it’s not mine, I’m OK with it! What’s your look for Fall? I have a range of coats! I have three shearling jackets for the winter, because you can never have enough sheep. In the summer, I wear linen.

But right now, because of the humidity, I’m going pretty au naturel. Quite the scanty getup! Because of some of the things I’ve seen walking around the Tents, I don’t feel exposed at all. Have you had any celeb encounters during MBFW? I met Matt Damon at Naeem Khan last season, but I didn’t stop to say hello. I’m not that impressed by stars. Matt knew who I was, though. Thoughts on Lincoln Center? I liked Bryant Park because it had more trees. I think IMG gets very upset with me when I try to take toilet breaks in the wrong areas. What do you think of security at the Tents? They’re very friendly, and the ones with treats are even nicer. Do you have any Benzes for getting around town in? I do, and my butler drives them. I like SUVs; my favorite is a G-Class. Any advice for designers? Someone should do a show where they come out on all fours. I think four is the new two! pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 4 ) ; g e t t y ( 1 0 )

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Dream team

From left: Ali Goldstein, Vice President, Marketing; David Greenberg, President; Carolyn Holba, Senior Vice President, Marketing; Damien Bertrand, Global Brand President; Aurelien Jehan, Senior Vice President Global Marketing

We put a lot of stock in the idea that Maybelline is a hometown brand. New York is our home base, and source of inspiration, and we felt it was the perfect time to make a much more concrete association with fashion.” —David Greenberg



behind the scenes with maybelline Now celebrating its seventh season as an official sponsor of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Maybelline New York has cemented its status at the epicenter of the fashion industry. As its expansion continues around the world, it was time to check in with the executives who are determined to make the brand a global force in fashion as well as beauty.

DAVID GREENBERG STRATEGIZES! When you arrived at Maybelline New York in 2008 was Fashion Week already on your mind? I arrived in the weeks before the collapse of Lehman Brothers, so Fashion Week wasn’t the only topic of discussion! When L’Oréal acquired Maybelline back in the mid-1990s, the New York handle wasn’t part of the brand. We recreated Maybelline in the spirit of New York years later, in January of 2004, and the vision for the brand started to crystallize. We wanted very much to associate it with the excitement and energy of fashion and beauty in the city. From there, we worked towards the kind of associations and relationships that brought this to life in the most concrete way. By 2009, we had worked really hard on our product innovation, and the fundamental inspiration was fashion and beauty-forward thinking. We were inspired by new product forms, technologies, and effects, and we developed more exciting, bold, and vivid colors, especially in a new product line called Eye Studio. We put a lot of stock in the idea that Maybelline is a hometown brand. New York is our home base and source of inspiration, and we felt it was the perfect time to make a much more concrete association with fashion. That gave birth to the sponsorship of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. 2009 was still a time of great uncertainty in the industry. What gave you the confidence to make the move? For us, New York’s Fashion Week is the quintessential source and fountain of fashion inspiration for the coming seasons, so we had absolutely no concerns or fears—it felt very natural. We loved the people we were dealing with, and the relationships we built between makeup artists, fashion designers, and those who manage Fashion Week itself, especially IMG. We felt really welcomed. What were your impressions of Fashion Week before Maybelline came on board? I had been to shows at Bryant Park Fashion Week, and our involvement coincided with the last season of shows there. It was a really interesting time—the venue was moving to Lincoln Center, and my sense was that everyone wanted it to be an even bigger success, as authentic and powerful as ever. The Lincoln Center venue even turned out to provide additional opportunities—there is a lot more common space, for example. Maybelline New York’s involvement also coincided with the explosion of digital technology and social media. It was the perfect storm to allow us to take a very New York-centric association and expand it beyond the New York perimeter to consumers who may not have had the chance to visit the Tents, but who experience it through digital media thanks to Maybelline New York. It’s so important for us to be an accessible brand—we’re very democratic. What has been the most surprising result of your involvement with MBFW? The importance of the relationship between the makeup artist and the designer. It’s a very special and personal aspect of Fashion Week. We have a wide, wide

portfolio of products, and there’s nothing we can’t do to create that strong synergy with the clothes. And now that L’Oréal has acquired Essie, you also have another handle on the nails at the shows. Essie has been associated with Fashion Week since long before L’Oréal made the acquisition in 2010—it goes back to the origins of her brand. Essie, the brand, was also born in New York, and Essie [Weingarten], herself, has been inspired by fashion as a basis for her shadework for a very, very long time. When she debuts a collection, it is typically inspired by what’s happening on the runway. She is front row and center at Fashion Week, and not just in New York—whether it be Milan or Paris, that’s just what Essie does. I think that’s why she’s been successful, and why her shades are among the most desired. How is the brand supporting young designers? The power of possibility has been part of the spirit of Maybelline New York from the beginning. We love to think of ourselves as a brand that helps women with dreams who are on the cusp of success. ‘Maybe she’s born with it, maybe it’s Maybelline’ is all about that. So we’ll always support up-and-coming designers. It’s part of our role, and we know we can make a unique contribution there as well. For the third year in a row, Maybelline New York is a sponsor of the ELLE Fashion | Next program whose mission is to discover and foster up-and-coming designers. Every year, Maybelline New York and ELLE work with a top fashion school; this year it’s New York’s own FIT. Maybelline New York will present a $25,000 grant to the student they feel best embodies the spirit of “Fashion | Next” to continue their collection. How much manpower do you put behind your Fashion Week initiatives? We use Fashion Week as an occasion to bring people from all around the world to be exposed to Maybelline New York and New York City and see the communications we place all around Manhattan on billboards and the tops of taxi cabs, among other places. We bring many beauty editors from all around the world to be inspired by what we do here. So it takes a lot of people to put all that together and make sure it all comes off flawlessly. And that doesn’t even include the efforts of the makeup artists themselves to collaborate with the fashion designers and create the looks! I’m lucky enough that I get to go behind the scenes and watch our makeup artists applying the makeup to the models. It’s a major undertaking, and it’s quite something to see. You’ve been quoted as saying that celebrities are not necessarily core to the Maybelline New York brand. Has fashion filled an important role instead? Absolutely. Fashion is core to who we are. At the end of the day, we’re a color business, and we’re all about self-expression and self-esteem, which are values shared by the fashion industry as well.

BY ASHLeY BAKER Photography by Giorgio Niro


TAKES IT GLOBAL! What is your role at Maybelline New York? I’m the global brand president, so I look at Maybelline’s strategy, vision, product, and advertising from a global perspective. How is Maybelline involved with Fashion Weeks outside of New York? The relationship between fashion and Maybelline has turned into a long love story. Maybelline New York currently sponsors Fashion Week in 10 markets around the world. Maybelline is an international brand—we are present in 129 countries—and fashion is multicultural. How is Maybelline New York perceived in all these different markets? Unless you have five hours to spend with me, we won’t get to the specific impressions in each country, but generally, it’s quite similar to how Maybelline is thought of in the United States. The brand has a long heritage and serious commitments to fashion and innovation. Are all of your product launches executed globally? We bring many new products to market every year, and most of our launches are global. Of all the makeup brands in the world, Maybelline New York is probably the most international. We use fashion as the inspiration behind both trends and products. One example is eyeliner. It is very common to say it’s the big, new thing in beauty because they only recently arrived in Europe and the U.S. over the last two or three years. But in Asia, liners have always been big. By being at Fashion Weeks there, we actually spotted the trend early, because we were there to look for it. Has Fashion Week turned into an important resource in product development? Fashion Week is a bit of a lab for us. It’s a unique opportunity to work with designers, and they have incredible visions about color. We want to be accessible and make fashion accessible as well. Our mission is to bring trends from the catwalk to the sidewalk. That’s why New York is so important—women are elegant everywhere, but New York women achieve an effortless look as well that you may not find in Paris or Milan. The mix between high fashion and the sidewalk is very Maybelline. We are always asking ourselves, ‘What is the new thing women want, and how can we help them get it?’ Aside from New York, which Fashion Week do you find most dynamic? Berlin. The city is waking up to the world, and not only in fashion. Its aura is very interesting right now, and after six seasons there, we’ve really seen an evolution. What is your travel schedule like? I wish I could spend a little bit more time in New York, but I travel a lot. First, because my job is international, and second, because I want to keep my finger on the pulse. Things move so fast in the beauty industry—we launch two or three new mascaras, liners, foundations, blushes, and more every year! That’s why it’s so exciting to be in makeup at the moment. A few years ago, it wasn’t so strong on the runway, and now, it’s everywhere. I was in Hong Kong last week looking at the trends and stores with our team. Before, it seemed like many of the trends were originating in France, Italy, and the United States. Now, I see a rebalance—a lot of trends are coming from Asia. How many languages do I speak? I’m French, and I speak English and German as well. I lived in different countries—Australia, Canada, the UK, and now the U.S. I’ve traveled a lot as well; I’ve always been interested in different cultures. I haven’t been to the 129 countries where Maybelline New York has a presence, but I’ve been to at least 50! There’s still time... Ha! Every time I come back from a trip, I am richer in experience. That’s why I love my job so much—makeup is very different all over the world. To make women feel more confident and beautiful every day is a dream. How’s New York treating you? Very well. I love its energy. It’s a city of possibilities, and it reinvents itself every day. I get a lot of inspiration just walking in the streets. What’s your favorite French restaurant? There are many! I love La Grenouille and La Petite Maison. And it’s not French, but I go to Sant Ambroeus on Madison Avenue every morning. If you see a French guy having coffee at the bar, say hello!


Maybelline’s Fashion Week Domination! New York was just the beginning. These days, Maybelline New York serves as a sponsor at the following Fashion Week events around the world: New York Tokyo Moscow Lodz Amsterdam

Berlin Toronto Tel Aviv Kiev Sydney

MAYBELLINE BY THE NUMBERS Number of shows this season: 10 Number of products expected to be given to showgoers this season: Upwards of 10,000 pieces including EyeStudio Color Tattoo Eyeshadow, Color Sensational Lipcolor, and Color Show Nail Lacquer

MAYBELLINE’S NOT-SO-SECRET WEAPONS Meet the cadre of makeup artists defining the looks each season: Charlotte Willer, U.S.; Gato, Spain; Max Delorme, France; Carla Gasic, Chile; Sharon Dowsett, UK; Nicci, Denmark; Andy Koh, China; Grace Lee, Canada; Mizu, Japan; Boris Entrup, Germany



AS BLACK AND WHITE. P O U R L AV I C T O I R E . C O M · 1 . 8 5 5 . P O U R L AV

One to click


Wholesale revolution

Wondering when wholesale sales will become as tech-savvy as retail? Enter Mona Bijoor, who combined the best practices of sites like Facebook, eBay, and LinkedIn to create a gorgeously glossy online network, Joor, which connects brands with stores. BY MARIA DENARDO PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO


hat was wrong with the pre-Joor wholesale model? Nothing was wrong, per se, but it needed enhancement. Up until now, 99 percent of wholesale buying happened offline—retailers and brands were missing a digital channel to do business. Designers have focused a lot of energy on e-commerce for their consumer business, so why not turn to digital for wholesale as well? What, exactly, do we find on Over 350 brands and 10,000 stores, for starters. We think of ourselves as Facebook for the fashion community, where brands and retailers have their own profile pages. It’s a match-based system—you can choose to keep your profile public or private, and determine whether or not you want to accept or reject requests. For example, if a store wants to carry Thakoon, it can send the brand a request for access to all its information—linesheets, lookbook, immediates available for delivery, those sorts of things. Where did you get this idea? After I graduated with an MBA at the Wharton School of Business, I worked as a managing consultant with large private equity shops. Later, I worked for Elie Tahari and Chanel on the brand side, and A Pea in the Pod, and Ann Taylor as a buyer. Essentially, I got a full understanding of the pain points at all angles. I realized that a lot of those could be solved by creating a very easy-to-use, but private, marketplace. How do you recruit members? After we invite brands to join Joor, they allow their retailers to access their information on the site. In order to do that, the store must provide certain information, like a vendor list and location details. Provided that the store makes sense for our site and doesn’t dilute the network, we make it a mission to add them to our roster of retailers. What’s the business model? Joor charges a one-time membership fee and a small transaction fee for new business gained on the site. In exchange, brands get access to a growing visual directory of retailers, our iPad app for order intake, data analytics, and a platform to showcase line sheets, lookbooks, and press. Who were some of your earliest adopters? Steven Alan was among the first to get on board, joining the site before we even launched. Now, we work by word of mouth, and we’ve signed brands like DvF, Thakoon, Escada, Yigal Azrouël, Erin Fetherston, and Rebecca Taylor. Out of about 250 applicants per month, we sign 20 to 30 brands. So given the network effect, how many retailers are you adding? About 500 to 600 retailers each month. And we’re really excited to work with designers like Bibhu Mohapatra, Misha Nonoo, and Jordan Wolk, who are all new to Joor.

How large is your staff? We have 25 staffers with offices in Los Angeles and New York. Half of our staff consists of developers and tech experts who came from companies like Adobe and Travelocity. The other half is comprised of marketing and salespeople who have

experience working for showrooms or retailers. Who are your investors? We’re backed by Battery Ventures, whose client list includes Skullcandy, Groupon, and Angie’s List. We also have investors like Chris Burch’s business partner, Bill Smith, and Ken Landis, who co-founded Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. How does Joor complement trade shows? We love them! We’re not a replacement to a tradeshow or a showroom. We’re just another channel, and we attend all the shows to support our brands that rely on our iPad app. How are you involved with the CFDA? We work closely at the membership level to offer thought leadership, like organizing panel discussions on how to expand sales and distribution networks. We also just welcomed several CFDA Incubator designers onto the platform at a minimal fee to help them gain exposure to the best retailers in the industry. How’s the competition? It’s welcome! It keeps us focused and makes sure we’re on our toes. Plus, it validates that this is the next big thing!

One To watch


LUCIO For designer Lucio Castro, stints studying medicine and film were just detours in his path to fashion superstardom. After learning the trade from the biggest guns in the biz—Marc, Donna, and Giorgio—he’s well on his way. BY EDDIE ROCHE PORTRAIT BY GIORGIO NIRO


et’s talk backstory! I’m from Buenos Aires. My mother was an actress and my father was a physicist, and as a result, one side of my personality is very practical, and another is much more poetic. What sort of work did your mother do? She was a telenovela actress. She had dark hair, so she always played a villain. In Latin American countries, the heroine is always blond. She was always the one coming down the stairs saying, ‘I’m going to kill you.’ Was she famous? Absolutely, in the sixties and seventies. She stopped acting when I was born, but she was still very wellknown. Millions of people lived with her for an hour every day, and they take the characters really

seriously. Because she played a total b*tch on TV, people would be rude to us in real life, which was very upsetting. One time, a shopkeeper in Miami refused to sell me a calculator because, as he said, ‘You’re with her.’ Wow! What was your father like? Extremely intellectual. He created a very successful system for elevator music to play through the telephone line. When my father died, the University of Buenos Aires called to ask me to take his physics library, one of the largest in Argentina. What an interesting couple! It’s funny—the best way my mother and father connected was through chess. They played constantly. We had 16 chess boards in the house.

Did you learn to play? When I was really young, I wanted a skateboard and my father said he’d get me one if he could teach me chess for two months. Afterwards, he said I’d been such a good student, and of course, I never took another class again. You took a very circuitous path to Parsons. [laughs] Yes! First, I went to medical school for five years because I wanted to go into psychiatry. Then I went to film school. I was interested in directing and writing, and I still make shorts. I just showed one that I shot on Fire Island called Alenka and the Cat. I compulsively watch movies. Last night, I came home after working all day, ate dinner, and then went to Film Forum by myself. My collections are definitely influenced by film and narrative. That’s why my work can’t get too conceptual. Wearability is so important, and that’s where I develop my narrative. What was your first fashion job post-Parsons? Around 2001, I started working at Marc Jacobs, mainly helping with the fashion shows. My first fulltime job was at DKNY Jeans; then I spent six years as director of mens knitwear at A|X Armani Exchange. Any interactions with Giorgio? Giorgio Armani is actually involved in every step, so every sketch that I made was sent to him, and he’d correct it. Every shirt that we fit was sent to him. I learned so much about tailoring and fit from Armani’s patternmaker. Were you intimidated by Mr. Armani? Not at all. He’s very sweet and funny. When did you leave A|X? In 2011, when I was ready to start my own line. I found some money and I got my Green card, so it was possible. And that was the beginning of Lucio Castro. Are you a perfectionist? I’m not, actually, but in some ways I feel like it’s my first big collection, so I really want it to! c o u r t e s y ad r i a n n a f a v e r o



s u p i m atition

d e s ig n c o m p


 New Generation

Of Chic  eturns Host Rachel Zoe R to the Runway!

Introducing the


ue of Chic The Fifth Annual Supima Design Competition Welcomes Its Latest Cliq

The Inside Scoop on the Competition!


whole thing started because Supima, the brand for Americangrown Pima cotton, had something to prove. After decades of successfully supplying the world’s finest cotton to the world’s finest labels, Supima’s status as the “softest” and “strongest” was a given. Yet Supima, knew that even its devoted customers hardly realized the potential of its product. So, in 2008, Supima decided to hold its first Design Competition. The overwhelming success of the event led Supima to reach out to the leading American design schools ,the Fashion Institute of Technology, Pratt Institute, Rhode Island School of Design, and the Savannah College of Art and Design to collaborate on the competition. “We’re showcasing the next generation of fashion talent,” says Buxton Midyette, VP of Marketing for Supima. “At the same time, that talent is showcasing the possibilities of Supima.” In May, the top two graduates from each of the four schools were provided Supima fabrics to develop capsule collections of women’s evening wear. On September 6 at Lincoln Center, after a select panel of elite judges carefully rated each collection on originality, execution, and fabric innovation, Pratt’s Kate Wilkoff took home this year’s honors. Perhaps you’ll see her on the show calendar next year!


Kate Wilkoff, Pratt

A native of Cabin John, Maryland, Kate Wilkoff experienced the design process at a young age by teaching herself how to use a sewing machine. The designer’s work has been featured in several blogs and she has participated in both the Pratt Institute’s Fashion Society and the Goldsmith Inc. Cocktail Dress Design Competition. She graduated from the Pratt Institute with a BFA in Fashion Design in May 2012. Through years of honing her design skills, Wilkoff identifies herself as an eveningwear designer with a focus on embroidery and textile manipulation. Wilkoff aspires to start her own eveningwear company, and she believes the Supima Design Competition will set her on the trajectory of achieving that goal. Her Supima capsule collection is inspired by architecture that is affected by natural deconstruction processes, such as rust and decay. Her faculty mentor for the Supima Design Competition is Robin Mollicone.


THE judges! (UP CLOSE!)

Kristina o’neill

Executive Editor, Harper’s Bazaar

Aslaug Magnusdottir Founder/CEO, Moda Operandi

Buxton midyette

VP of Marketing, Supima

Tadashi shoji Fashion Designer

alexandra wilkis wilson Founder/CMO, Gilt Groupe

Cindy Weber-cleary Fashion Director, InStyle


Left to Right: Jesse Curlee, President of Supima, Midyette, and Zoe with husband Rodger Berman ALL PHOTOS COURTESY


Jacqueline siefert RISD

meredith lyon pratt

Eduardo calvo SCAD

yvonne luong fit

natalia yepes scad

 

Thanks To Our Sponsors

Abbey glass RISD

Misse d it alla ? desi boutsupi


gn-co mpetitio m/ n




Stoop For all the talk of young designers making clothes that are “too commercial,” newbies Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of ECKHAUS LATTA are certainly forging their own, terrifically edgy path. BY EDDIE ROCHE PORTRAIT BY GIORGIO NIRO

When was the last time you two sat on a stoop? Michael: We do this every day, actually. When did you meet? M: During college at the Rhode Island School of Design. Zoe: We were in the same gallery, and he was taking down his show while I was putting mine up. We were both really stressed, but we found time to geek out over the Costume Institute. We went our separate ways, but met up at a party later that night. That was six years ago. Do you bicker like brother and sister? M: Yes! We spend 24 hours a day together, but we like that. Z: That’s very normal! It’s all in a really loving way. But we’re living together right now, so as you can imagine.... Do you know each other’s middle names? Z: David. M: Ruth Cumus. Why do you gel? M: Our perspective on fashion brought us together initially, but we also like making each other laugh. What were your college majors? Z: Textile design. M: Sculpture. I didn’t want to study fashion in school, because I wasn’t interested in being part of that conversation at the time. By the end of my time at school, garments started appearing in my work and it felt really natural moving towards where we are now. How did you develop your design ability? M: I took a machine knitting class at school, and I became obsessed. I got in a lot of trouble for using the machines in my free time, which I didn’t understand. Nobody was going to die! Who was I going to hurt with a knitting machine? Where do you source your materials? Z: We work with an amazing third-generation fabric dealer in Brooklyn. We manipulate all our fabrics, far beyond just sewing them together. Last season, for example, we used a plastic tape that was originally intended to be upholstery. This season, we’re working with fishing line! M: Big fabric stores never really appealed to me. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

What are your day jobs? M: I design accessories for Marc by Marc Jacobs. The people there are awesome, and I’m so fortunate to work for a company that allows me to take time to focus on my own designs. Z: I work for a textile company, so I sell swatches to companies like Marc Jacobs and Urban Outfitters. I also teach—I just finished a digitally printed textiles class at RISD. How do you balance it all? M: We work all the time! I work at Marc three days a week, and then I focus on the collection on nights and weekends. We give up luxuries like going to the beach, hanging out, having that next drink... How do you describe your aesthetic? M: Weird casual. We don’t think in terms of eveningwear or daywear, we just make pieces you’d wear. If you decided to buy a head-to-toe look, though, it would probably be intense. Z: We have a lot of faith in our customers. Who is your customer, exactly? Z: Right now, it’s mostly our friends, but the other day, we got an order from an anesthesiologist in Seattle, and it was so fulfilling! Our presentation might be very stylized, but our main ambition is to allow it to incorporate into someone else’s vocabulary. Where are you selling? M: At Maryam Nassir Zadeh on the Lower East Side, and Opening Ceremony. Do you want to be as big as Michael Kors? Z: Yes! We want to be exactly like him, but I don’t think we will be, because we’re a different kind of brand. M: Following in the path of Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons is our ultimate goal. Mike, what was it like to intern at The Daily as a teenager? M: It was awesome! I’d get a backstage pass to all the shows because I was a junior reporter. I’d ditch school and try to go to as many shows as possible. Zoe, did you have any fun internships? Z: Not really, but when I moved to New York my first job was as a tour guide at Big Bambú on the roof of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I gave Lou Reed a VIP tour, but I guess he’s afraid of heights, because he started crying. He was holding my hand so tightly, he almost cut off my circulation! INSETS: COURTESY

Now hatching

Luis Fernandez, NUMBER: LAB Launched: 2007 Key retailers: Saks, Scoop, and Bloomingdale’s
 Dream mentor: Andrew Rosen
 Eggs order: “Over easy.” Usual haunts: Hôtel Americano, Gastro Market, and Frame
 Workout regimen: “A little bit of cardio, a little bit of lifting, a little bit of boxing. And by ‘a little,’ I mean a little.” 
 Hypochondriac factor: “I used to be worried about everything, but it’s gotten a lot better. I don’t even feel like I get sick too often anymore!”  Favorite cleanser: Kiehl’s Facial Fuel
 Procrastination alert: Twitter, Pinterest, and coffee breaks Film fixation: “I just saw Cinema Paradiso again after many years. It was just as great as the first time!”

Meet The Inc ubat ees Doug and Ben Burkman, Burkman Bros. Launched: Spring 2009 Key retailers: Odin, Bloomingdale’s, and Saks Dream mentor: Ralph Lauren Eggs order: “We both like scrambled egg whites.” Choice of lunch: DB: “I make my own.” BB: “City Bakery.” Neighborhood haunts: Sushi of Gari and Starbucks Passions: DB: “Gardening.” BB: “Travel.” Crush: DB: “One of the guys I’m crushing on from the U.S. Olympic gymnastics team, Danell Leyva.” Incubator bestie: DB: “Seresh, the doorman downstairs.” BB: “Doug.” Last concert: Madonna and Beach House Repeat dreams: DB: “Vacation.” BB: “Dreams of flying!”

Whitney Pozgay, WHIT

Reece Solomon, REECE HUDSON

Launched: 2010 Key retailers: Bird, Steven Alan, Takashimaya, Les Nouvelles, Ships, and Current mentors: Jeffry Aronsson, Ari Bloom, Robert Bergman, and Lisa Metcalf Dream mentor: Jenna Lyons Background: “I designed womenswear for Steven Alan.” Eggs order: “Poached over toast.” Usual haunts: Marlow and Sons, Bakeri, La Superior, Hotel Delmano, Nighthawk Theater, and Bedford Cheese Shop
 Deodorant: Unscented Ban Confession: “I find Times Square romantic!” Sartorial pet peeve: “I can’t stand those bizarre sandal-bootie hybrids. They are essentially leather anklewarmers for summertime.”

Launched: 2009 Key retailers: Kirna Zabete, Fivestory, Satine, ShopBop. com, and Susan in San Francisco Current mentors: Kyle Andrew, Paul Donaher, Roopal Patel, and Steven Alan Dream mentors: Tom Ford, Ann Demeulemeester, and Reed Krakoff Eggs order: “Scrambled with cheese.” Usual haunts: Café Gitane, Café Select, The Smile, The Cabin, Bowery Hotel  Pet: “I have a black-and-white freckled Pomeranian named Georgia!” Not interested in: Facebook Sartorial pet peeve: “Backpocket detailing on men’s jeans, pre-packaged hipster outfits.”

Christian Cota Launched: September 2007 Key retailers: Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, and Rent The Runway Current mentors: Marc Beckman, Jeffry Aronsson, Shan Reddy, Roopal Patel, Joseph Ferrara, and Gary Wassner Dream mentor: Oscar de la Renta Eggs order: “Scrambled!” Messy factor: “When things get out of hand, I invite my friends over to help clean. I reward them with cocktails!” Workout regime: “Running up the Westside Highway with the wind blowing through my hair, pretending I’m Pam Anderson in Baywatch minus the red one-piece.” Naughty factor: “This past Halloween, my naughtiest, the costume was a horse. Let’s just say there was very little left to the imagination.”

Luis Fernandez

Doug and Ben Burkman, Burkman Bros.

Whitney Pozgay, WHIT


Reece Solomon, REECE HUDSON

Christian Cota


After a lengthy and rigorous application process, the CFDA identified 13 promising brands to populate its Incubator office space on 39th Street. For two years, the breakthrough bunch will be mentored, groomed, and shouldered by the industry’s elite. Ready to meet the competition? BY EDDIE ROCHE Arielle Shapiro, Ari Dein Launched: Fall 2010 Key retailers: Journelle and Linea Intima  Current mentors: Shan Reddy, Jean-Francois Ricat, and Kyle Andrew  Dream mentor: Linda Fargo  Eggs order: “Poached over arugula with polenta, please!”   Workout regime: “Urban Rebounding at New York Sports Club with Dalida.” Favorite cleanser: Jo Malone  Privacy value: “Enough to be careful what I say to journalists, but not enough to draw the drapes when I’m changing.” Procrastinator alert: “I read my horoscope on Susan Miller’s iPhone app.”   Strangest CFDA Incubator find: “I have a lot of fake boobs, i.e., chicken cutlets, for photo shoots. They just sit on my desk looking weird.”

Daniel Vosovic

Emanuela Duca

Launched: February 2010. “It’s bittersweet because our first show was the morning Alexander McQueen passed away.” Key retailers: “My mom and her credit card.” Current mentors: Gary Wassner, Aslaug Magnusdottir, Robert Bergman, Jayne Harkness, and Lisa Smilor Eggs order: “Scrambled with cheese and chives.”
 Allergies: “Pollen and dander are my mortal enemies.”
 Lunch special: “If it’s around Fashion Week, a bowl of salted ice cubes.” Athleticism: “I was a gymnast for 12 years. I still go to a class to keep my hamstrings nice and milky.” Ride: “A Zipcar when I’m feeling saucy.”
 Incubator bestie: Whit Pozgay

Launched: 2005 Key retailers: Twist, Patina Gallery, De Novo Gallery, and Pistachios Current mentors: Gary Wassner, David Rees, Robert Bergman, and Aslaug Magnusdottir Eggs order: “In a frittata, Italian-style!” Neighborhood haunts: Waterfall in Morningside Park Workout regiment: Dance, pilates, and yoga classes Hypochondriac obsession: Public pools Favorite cleanser: Olive oilbased soap Naughty factor: “Many years ago, I got myself out of a date by saying, ‘I cannot go out with you today because a big rock just fell on my brother’s head.’” Strangest CFDA Incubator find: “A very long piece of rusty metal (possibly a cattle prod), hanging on the wall.”

Alan Eckstein and Timo Weiland of Timo Weiland Launched: 2009
 Key retailers: Barneys New York,, Takashimaya, Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, Bird in Brooklyn, and Fivestory NY
 Current mentors: Lisa Metcalfe, Shan Reddy, and Daniel Silver
 Eggs order: AE: “Scrambled a bit, but I don’t prefer eggs.” TW: “Over easy!” Allergies: AE: “Cashmere! It’s a horrible allergy for a fashion designer.” Lunch break: Pizza parlors and Chipotle Passions: AE: “Hockey! I’m a serious Islander fan. Poor me!” TW: “Surfing, film, and photography.” Athleticism: AE: “I’m not very athletic.” TW: “I’m a closetjock. I love soccer, rugby, tennis, baseball, golf...”

Arielle Shapiro, Ari Dein

Marc Daniels and Ricky Hendry, ISAORA Launched: MD: 2009 Key retailers: Barneys New York, Opening Ceremony, Steven Alan, Fred Segal, Ron Herman, Lane Crawford, Beams in Japan, and Oki-Ni Current mentors: Kevin Harter, Steven Alan, Michael Issacman, and Theresa Wong & Ronnie DeMichael Eggs order: MD: “Organic and scrambled.” RH: “Eggs benedict with salmon.” Neighborhood haunts: ABC Carpet Deodorant: MD: “Deodorant?”

Marc Daniels and Ricky Hendry, ISAORA

Emanuela Duca Daniel Vosovic Alan Eckstein and Timo Weiland, Timo Weiland

desi ne R o ai s y son a eo e ich

Front Row

Collect &



WEEK September 2012


Fashion Insider’s


The Daily Style Sessions! September 9th—11th, 2012 11:00AM - 6:00PM 

The Empire Hotel The Rooftop  44 West 63rd Street Interactive Brand Experiences | Catwalk Concierge by Modelinia #Influence101 blogger tutorials by Socialyte.Co | VIP Salon & Spa Services Signature Cocktails & Refreshments | Live DJ Sets!

RSVP Required Tweet Us @DailyFrontRow | #StyleSessions | Follow us at

Meet a Mentor!

Hilldun co-CEO Gary Wassner is the CFDA’s goto guy for all things financing. No wonder he was tapped to share his scoop with the incubatees! How did you become involved with the CFDA Incubator program? I met Steven Kolb many years ago, since Hilldun has been financing and mentoring designers for more than 35 years. Eventually, we started discussing issues regarding the business side of fashion. I expressed an interest in offering to share what I’ve learned throughout my career to the CFDA membership and the CFDA itself with regard to small business management, financing, and factoring.  He arranged a breakfast meeting with DVF, and during the next year or so, the Incubator was becoming a reality. I was asked if I would be interested in serving on the Advisory Board for the Incubator, as well as participating as a mentor. What, exactly, does mentoring entail? We meet regularly with the designers, either individually or as a group. The designers set the agenda for each session, and we advise and instruct them in business matters, as well as guide them in all the artistic and creative challenges they face. We use our own relationships to make introductions, provide and create appropriate opportunities, and serve as an unofficial board of advisors, all of course, at no expense to the designers. Who have you mentored? Public School, Alice Ritter, WHIT, Daniel Vosovic, Emanuela Duca, and Christian Cota. I also assist any of the designers in the program who reach out and request my input. What are the key factors in achieving success? Knowing who you are as a designer, and having a clear, consistent point of view. Create an infrastructure, no matter how small, of competent advisors and helpers who can assist you in executing your designs, so that you deliver your product on time and of the highest quality. And always work from a realistic cash-flow projection!  What is the best way to secure financing? Initially, friends and family. Once you have a viable product, are generating sales from credit-worthy stores, and are selling to them according to acceptable industry terms—not on consignment—you can then leverage that ‘asset’ by financing or factoring with a firm like Hilldun.

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Chic boss

The World According to Bud In 1982, fashion exec Bud Konheim and his in-house designer Nicole Miller struck out on their own to launch the latter’s eponymous brand. These days, she’s a household name all over the globe. As the industry searches for its next big success story, who better than Konheim to share his tricks of the trade over a chicken salad at his Garment District lunch spot? BY ASHLEY BAKER PORTRAIT BY GIORGIO NIRO fa s h i o n w e e k d A i l y. c o m

Bud Konheim at Nicole Miller’s Seventh Avenue HQ


ow long have you been coming to Arno’s? Oh, 25 or 30 years, and I’ve never made a reservation. The singing waiter breaks up every conversation, and it’s annoying as hell when you have 20 minutes for lunch, but the food is actually pretty good. The real problem is the decoration, which is mama’s-fromPalermo, but American-style. So how did you hook up with Nicole? I’ve been selling since I was seven-years-old. I had a family fashion business called P.J. Walsh, and in 1975, I found myself looking for a new designer. I had spent six months thinking of the interview for the position. It started out with a pile of fabrics on a table—most of them bad, a few of them good—and I asked all 170 candidates to pick out something they’d want to work on. Some interviews would end there. Then, I asked them to sketch, which is really the language of a designer. The last question was this: Other than making more money, which

everyone wants to do, what would give you satisfaction in this job? And then Nicole showed up. And what was Nicole’s answer? ‘I want to see everybody wearing my clothes.’ Which was exactly what I wanted! She was my designer for 5 years until we decided to partner and launch the Nicole Miller brand in 1982. What are the guiding principles of your business? I don’t have any tenets, we go from day to day to day. I don’t believe in demographics, political polls, any of that stuff. When we first started out, I said to Nicole, ‘ Why don’t you design for yourself, and I’ll find enough women who share your aesthetic, and that’ll be the business. If that’s 12 people, we’re going to have a small business. If it’s 12 million, then we’ll be big!’ Designing just based on a demographic study is not designing. That’s offensive to me. I don’t want to take advice from stores, either. So what is a real designer? Someone who cannot accept the status quo and who hates what’s out there. If the architect loved the grass hut, we’d never have the Empire State Building! How do you maintain the energy after all these years? We always feel like we’re being chased. We’re in a fashion war, and it’s non-stop. Are you afraid of making mistakes? No! If you make them early, you may have the opportunity to fix them. If you wait to chase the idea and make the mistake late, you’re out of time. Is there anything you’re afraid of? Failure to adapt. Look at the Internet world with all the techies—average age, 12. Failure to adapt would be to say the Internet doesn’t matter. No! It does! How important have department stores been to the business? Marginal. Nicole is designing for a customer. Department stores make up demographic stories—this department is for the millennials, this is for the centennials!—but they don’t have an idea about who the customer really is. It’s the difference between collectivism and individualism, really. When a specialty store comes in, the owner buys for Alice, Jane, and Susan. The buyer has a certain taste level, and she really has confidence in what she’s ordering. She’s also looking for the next thing, instead of the classics that department stores rely on. So what were you thinking in 2005, when you launched Nicole by Nicole Miller at JCPenney. At first, it scared the hell out of me! The last guy to sell JCPenney was Halston, and the second he sold there, he was dumped by all of his high-end customers and he went out of business. But at JCPenney, they had identified the missing middle—a woman like yourself, who wasn’t a kiddie anymore, but who didn’t want to dress like something out of The Grapes of Wrath, either. I said to Nicole, ‘I don’t know how we’ll ever sell all of America, because they can’t hit our prices, and I don’t want to start a whole other organization. But this could be an option!’ The quality of the design is the same, but we had to compromise on materials. How did you avoid a Halston-esque fate? We went to Neiman Marcus and said, ‘Look, here’s a beautiful hand-crocheted ivory dress. It costs $3,500. We’re going to let you run it in your ad in Vogue.’ Nobody knew about the JCPenney thing yet. The Vogue ad ran in January, and in February, at the Academy Awards, JCPenney announced Nicole by Nicole Miller, and nobody said a word. Not a word! How has your competition changed over the years? I was giving a speech, and during the Q&A session, someone asked me

about ‘competitors like Marc Jacobs.’ I’d be happy to be competing against Marc Jacobs—he’s a real designer! These days, we’re competing against people who don’t actually make anything—Kim Kardashian, Paris Hilton, porno stars! Jessica Simpson? What’s her design talent? Ha! Any plans to delve into menswear? Yes! We’re launching it for fall 2013. The designer of the men’s collection is straight and cute, and all the girls in the office love him. Was that the only reason for the launch? [laughs] No! Do we need another business? Who needs anything! At this point, we do what we want to do. You’ve been advertising in the glossies for decades. How have things changed? An important shift happened in 2007, when consumers became motivated by advocacy instead of just brand awareness. That’s where the Internet came in. For example, I do a lot of hunting, so when I go online to Bass, Orvis, or Beretta to buy something, where do I look first? The reviews! Advertising now has got to come with some kind of advocacy component. And in addition to a pretty picture on the page, the magazine needs content that’s going to engage the reader. Just pushing pictures? Not working. Is online a better place to spend money? Not necessarily; we still do a little bit of everything. There’s such a tremendous amount of dust in the air, it’s hard to find clarity about what’s motivating people to do anything. But the amount of time spent on the Internet is unbelievable! Nobody is working anymore. We used to get pissed off about personal phone calls? What about personal Internet use! Go to any office in Manhattan, and you’ll see most people spending the day shopping or talking to their friends on Facebook! Why do you and Nicole get along so well after all these years? When we first got together, she said, ‘Treat me like a partner, not like an employee.’ I said, ‘OK!’ I have incredible respect for her as a designer, a business person, and a person. She has a character that’s second to none. I aspire to have many of her traits myself. We don’t cheat or dump on our employees, and we don’t break contracts!

Nicole Miller’s first runway show in 1990

Bud and Nicole, circa the birth of the brand

ins e t s : c o u r t e sy nic o l e mi l l e r



Simon Says Has it only been four years since erstwhile designer Simon Collins landed a plummy new gig as Dean of the School of Fashion at Parsons The New School for Design? In his ambitious quest to rebrand college, he’s managed to bring Parsons to the industry’s top-of-mind. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO


ow did an Englishman end up in New York? ow did an up in New York? I spent theEnglishman first part of end my career as a designer I and spent the first part of my career as a designer then as creative director. I worked in andItaly, thenNew as creative director. I worked in likes London, York, and Hong Kong for the London, Italy, New York, and Hong Kong for the likes of Nike. Thanks to a typical New York coincidence, of Nike. Thanks to a typical New York coincidence, I met a professor from Parsons as I was looking for I amet professor from Parsons as me I was newa challenge. Parsons invited to looking speak tofor a aclass, new challenge. Parsons invited me to speak to later, a and I was bitten by the bug. A few weeks class, and I was by the bug. Afor few weeks later, it emerged thatbitten they were looking a new dean. I itimmediately emerged that they were looking for a new dean. realized that everything I had done inI immediately realized thatupeverything my career was building to this. I had done in my career was building up to this. Was it your first job in academia? Was it your first job in academia? Yes! When I got the job, I was very upfront Yes! When I gotthat the job, I was veryunderstand upfront about the fact I didn’t really about the fact that I didn’t really understand how academia works. The administration how works. The administration saidacademia that was okay, because I knew how the said that was okay, because the industry works! It took a lot Iofknew gutshow to hire industry works! It took a lot of guts to hire me, but it has paid off. Some would say that me, but it has paid off. Some would say that Savannah [College of Art & Design] hired my Savannah [College of Art & Design] hired friend [former Saks Fifth Avenue fashionmy director] friend [former Saks Fifth response Avenue fashion Michael Fink as a direct to our director] success. Michael Fink as a direct response to our success. What’s your MO at Parsons? What’s your MOmoney, at Parsons? We don’t make we make excellence.

What were your first steps as dean? We don’titmake money, to werepresent make excellence. I made my business Parsons at every What were your first steps as dean? fashion-related event in the city, so that the industry I knows made itwe’re my business a force. to represent Parsons at every fashion-related event in the city, so that the industry Do you know the students personally? knows we’re a force. I know a good many of them, but we have 1,600! Do youweek, knowany thestudent students personally? Every can sign up and come to my I office know atogood many of them, chat over English teabut with biscuits. We

We call it Tiffen Time. My only rule is that they can talk about whatever they want, and I’m not going to be defensive. Which alums are your best supporters? Over the past few years, I’ve worked very hard to reconnect with our alumni, which is a who’s who of the industry. Donna [Karan] gave a huge endowment of $3 million to fund our MFA program. Reed Krakoff’s answer is always ‘yes’. I’m actually working on a 25-chapter book about our alums—Narciso Rodriguez, Derek Lam, Alexander Wang, Doo-Ri Chung, Jason Wu, Isaac Mizrahi, Jenna Lyons, Jeff Staple, Peter Som, Proenza Schouler, Tracy Reese, Anna Sui, and Donna are all participating. How is your relationship with Steven Kolb and the CFDA? Steven and I are very good friends. I always tend to snag a lift in the CFDA limo during Fashion Week because we all go to the same shows. Lisa Smilor used to work at Parsons for many years, so we have a very close relationship as well. Are there too many kids out there wanting to be designers? A little while ago, fashion designers became the new rock stars. I’m probably more worried about students from other colleges, because at Parsons, we’re in the middle of the industry. When our students graduate, they’ve already had five or six internships, and they know how it goes! What is Parsons doing at MADE this season? For the first time ever, 18 of the best-of-the-best of the students from our MFA program will show on September 8. Look out for Beckett Fogg and Talia Shuvalov. Do you have to be TV-friendly to be a successful designer these days? You can’t deny the importance of the cult of personality. Some significant talents make it without using their own images, but we train our students to present themselves. We teach them that it’s one thing to have a beautiful rack of clothing, but you have to be able to articulate your work. But no, you don’t have to be good-looking. Of course not! What do you think of the state of the industry? The rise of bloggers and online selling means that anyone can be a journalist and anyone can be a fashion designer, but that doesn’t mean you are any good. I’m interested in editing out all the white noise. The fashion calendar needs to be edited! Do production companies call you to do TV? A lot! During my first year, we turned down four offers to make “The Real Life of Parsons.” We didn’t want to expose the students to that. So you won’t be pulling a Tim Gunn anytime soon. I can’t imagine I would follow the same career path as Tim. He has done a wonderful job and he’s very successful, but that’s not me. Have you ever had to discipline your students? I don’t give them detention, but I do give them tea.

T ALUMS IS L A ’S N O S R PA ng, i, Prabal Guru

na Su ed Krakoff, An nza Schouler’s Jack ’ve grown! Re d Proe an , rd My, how they Fo m To Jason Wu, andez Donna Karan, d Lazaro Hern McCullough an

FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M i nsets : getty




School’s In Session! Wondering how the industry’s preeminent training grounds are prepping the Donnas, Marcs, and Michaels of tomorrow? The decision-makers at three of the city’s top design schools explain! BY MARIA DENARDO

The 411 on FIT


With Joanne Arbuckle, dean of the School of Art & Design

With Christopher J. Cyphers, executive vice president


hat’s new at the Institute? Our annual Future of Fashion show is happening again this season, and while the event isn’t new, it has reached a new level thanks to the support of Calvin Klein, Inc. During Fashion Week, we have FIT students at two runway shows—the Supima Design Competition and ELLE’s FASHION | NEXT. Who represents the school during MBFW? I attend the collections alongside Valerie Steele and Patricia Mears from The Museum at FIT. What makes FIT unique? We’ve always been very good at the ‘doing.’ We lead art and design schools in providing the best technical education, but that’s not all we do. We’re certainly leaders in design development. Calvin Klein, Inc. doesn’t give you $2 million for a fashion show unless they believe you’re going to be meeting their expectations. Whenever we call Norma Kamali, she’s here, even if it’s just to look at curriculum. What is really challenging your students today? Understanding that fashion is a global business. We’re fortunate that we have alliances around the world, including our programs in Florence and Milan. What’s one thing every FIT student knows when they graduate? We make sure every student is well-rounded. They’re not going to be head designer right out of college, so we make sure that they’ll be successful so they can move on and be the next Calvin. Who do your students look up to? Emerging designers who have made it! Which FIT grads are slated to be the next “It” designers? Jolie Mittleman, who’s currently interning in Milan at Mantero, and Kellie Lamkin, who designs in New York and Maine under the name Luciana Grimaldi. Jusil Carroll is really savvy and hard working, as well. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M


ongrats on your new job! What new additions can we expect at LIM? We’re launching a new graduate program in January in retail management and fashion merchandising. It’s a 30-credit, one-year Master of Professional Studies. Classes will be offered online and on campus at night to accommodate people with day jobs. It’s really designed for mid-career professionals who don’t have an undergrad degree or background in fashion. We offer a handful of online classes now, but this is our first full online program. We’re also adding a lot to our existing programs. Such as? Home fashions to our fashion merchandising major for fall 2013. I came from The New York School of Interior Design, so that is of particular interest to me. In the classroom, we’re piloting Apple products through a new Mac computer lab and through iPads, so teachers and students can access Blackboard. I’m a Mac guy. I can’t live without mine! What are your students concerned about lately? The economy has been a challenge, although that’s rebounding. One of the things we do best is help students find jobs—not folding t-shirts at the Gap, but setting them up with careers as buyers or getting them opportunities in corporate training programs. What is LIM’s overall approach? It’s decidedly experiential, although there’s a place for theory, too. We focus on the business side of fashion. The student who is strictly interested in fashion design would most likely not end up at LIM. Who are some of your illustrious alums? Doug Jakubowski, the chief merchandising officer at Perry Ellis; Neva Hall, the executive vice president of special retail stores at Neiman Marcus; Kathy Nedorostek, the president of U.S. wholesale and global licensing of Coach; and Luisa Herrera, the senior vice president of production and merchandise planning at John Varvatos.

The DISH from PRATT With Jennifer Minniti, chair of the Fashion Design Department


ow is Pratt unique? Since we’re grounded in liberal arts, there are always discussions around fashion as it pertains to the social and political landscape. We’re trying to prepare students to be more socially responsible in the industry. What are your day-to-day duties? I’m in between the upper echelon of the administration and the faculty and students. We’re always going back and forth between the mission of the school and the vision of the department, which don’t always live in harmony. On a daily scale, I have an open-door policy to talk about everything from scheduling to goals. I also walk the studio floor as much as possible. What obstacles are your students facing? There’s been a lack of imagination from the students— maybe it has to do with growing up with the Internet, or having too many scheduled play dates as children. They’re used to being told when and where to do something. They have to fail and be open to mistakes, but the student today fears that. What are professors teaching these days? Many students are not enrolling with a background in craftsmanship or design, so we have to start from the basics. Is Pratt competitive with other fashion schools? My slogan is “collaborative competition,” and everyone is jumping on board. We all have something unique to offer. When you come to New York, we’re all the best. Who are your standout alums? Betsey Johnson and Jeremy Scott. I’m hoping as the program moves forward, we’ll have more entrepreneurs out there! One way we’re able to do that is through the generous gift of the Liz Claiborne Fashion Scholarship through the Liz Claiborne Foundation. We award one student $25,000. Kelsey Parkhouse won last year, and she will be presenting her debut Spring 2013 collection during MBFW. co u rt e s y s u bj e cts / schools

available at

足 B e r d o r f G o o d m a n | N e i m a n M a r c us | S h o p b o p . c o m

Luxe re-do


New Look

Despite its status as one of the American fashion industry’s most beloved cashmere brands, Magaschoni decided it was time for an update. First things first: a brand new ad campaign, lensed by the legendary Gilles Bensimon and styled by Katie Mossman. Next up? The hiring of creative director Shaun Kearney, a veteran of MaxMara, Donna Karan, and Kenneth Cole. Come behind the scenes as Magaschoni CEO Monica Forman spills her secrets! PHOTOGRAPHY BY RACHEL BRENNECKE


hy did Magaschoni need a fresh Any surprises? approach? Before the shoot, Gilles told me he wanted a Fashion is constantly evolving, and we need particular sweater in every color. On the day of the to keep evolving with it. Today, our customer shoot, he showed up and really got into the vibe wants to look modern and sophisticated, of Magaschoni. Every picture, he changed into a trying out great trends while maintaining a different color sweater! In fact, he wanted me to timeless elegance. Gilles Bensimon helped us make some of the women’s sweaters into men’s tap into that. for him. How so? What was your role during the shoot? I can’t speak for Gilles, but I’ve been told by This is a secret, but I always bring extra looks to his assistant that he enjoys shooting still life, photo shoots because I’ve learned that stylists like flowers, as much as models. I watched him and design directors get upset with me because mush a pile of cashmere together and make it they think I ask for too much. So, I have a secret look like flowers! He captured our model every suitcase packed full of product waiting in the time. He always gets the shot. wings. Sure enough, Gilles sailed through the What was your first meeting like? looks, and it came in handy. I first met Gilles when I had him over for Were you happy with the model? lunch. We broke bread together, and I fell She was beautiful! Actually, she was so excited in love with him because he’s such a real to work with Gilles, she went white at about person. He’s not affected by his fame. He’s 2 p.m. because she didn’t want to stop the shoot. seen everything. When I told people I just She wanted to keep working for him! That’s how shot with Gilles Bensimon, they were like, people are around him. When you enjoy what ‘Oh, excuse me!’ They’re so intimidated by his you’re doing, you know you’re going to have a name—I’m not. good result. Is he a cashmere connoisseur? What is your growth strategy? Gilles Bensimon and Katie Mossman He loves cashmere, and he loves our sweaters! We’re developing the ready-to-wear portion of prep for a campaign shot. I went farming with him, and he even wore a the brand because we see so much potential in cashmere sweater on the farm! the market, and because our customer wants What did Katie Mossman add to the mix?
 offerings to complement the knitwear and Every stylist wants to shoot with Gilles. We had a slight hair trauma with the cashmere she’s come to know and love. We’re looking forward to developing our inmodel—Katie wanted one hairstyle, Gilles wanted another—but we worked it store shops in the best stores in the country and around the world. And we just hired out. They both took the high road, and we came to a happy place. Gilles played Shaun Kearney as our new creative director! I fell in love with Shaun’s sophisticated, Led Zeppelin and Aerosmith—good, hard rock. We were all dancing around effortlessly chic designs. He knows what stylish women want to wear. Our offices and getting down. are next to each other and we’re always going back and forth to share ideas. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

B E T H E WO M A N who has everything for next to nothing.

The world’s f inest, most exclusive luxur y fashions, at prices so far below retail t hey’re hard to believe. Ever y piece inspected and aut henticated. T h e R e a l R e a l . c o m . R e a d y, s e t , o b s e s s .

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spring 2013

rag+ bonE

Workwear for all! The mass appeal of Neville and Wakefield extends to almost all they do, including this futuristic riff on uniform dressing. Even when layered up in outerwear, this girl is unabashedly sexy— just how she likes it.

It’s been the talk of the Tents ever since, so what to make of this elaborate and ornate offering that felt, in places, a bit familiar? Altuzarra’s ability to mix and match materials is nearly peerless, his European sensibility is a welcome change from the scads of sportswear. Keep watching!

ALTUZARRA firstview FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Ready, Willing, and

Dependable Why are Berkeley College interns and graduates so well prepared? • Students learn current practices and the latest technologies from accomplished faculty, many of whom are working professionals with market experience • Advisory Boards help ensure relevant program and course content, based on marketplace needs • Internships or job-related assignments are required in all programs, providing students with valuable, practical experience

Narek Bagdat - Berkeley College Alumna Fashion Marketing and Management, Class of ’ 12 “Thanks to Berkeley College, I had the opportunity to be a part of Fashion Week in New York City. It was amazing — I got a real ‘behind-the-scenes’ look, and experienced the energy and excitement of one of the industry’s biggest events.”

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Find out why so many students depend on Berkeley College to help prepare for career success!



spring 2013


{ Nearly-Nude Nails} haven soho spa’s William myers for ESSIE


Country chic! Stripes, florals, and was that a touch of calico? This charming homage to the not-so-wild West had its share of (relative) basics, too—a testament to Suno’s everwidening range.


What a trip. Print master Nicole Miller’s up-all-night collection may have referenced rave culture, but these perfectly polished pieces will look perfectly at home in the daylight hours. The funky leggings and slim-fit jackets will be especially coveted.

prabal GURUNG

He may have his motifs—digital prints, shorts, and maribou feathers among them— but Gurung’s femme take on menswear still feels like the freshest in the bunch.


r u n way: f i r s t v i e w ; e s s i e c o u r t e s y

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spring 2013

cushnie et


A more serious foray into color serves these designers well. Although they’ve proven their penchant for body-con, goingout dresses handily, upping the sophistication factor was a smart move, especially in the day dress territory.



{Sixties Eyes} Charlotte Willer for Maybelline New York


Bold, vibrant, and electric energy galvanizing the runway. Such was DvF’s message for Spring 2013, which is governed by a barrage of brights rendered in glam (yet wearable) shapes. Of course, everything was endowed with that fearless attitude that DvF—the brand as well as the woman—is beloved for.


r u n way: f i r s t v i e w ; b e au t y: g e t t y i m ag e s


Open for Dinner Service Tuesday-Saturday with late night DJ’s Thursday-Saturday Open Wednesday night for “Nuit Blanche” our weekly burlesque dinner party, choreographed by Dances of Vice Open Saturday & Sunday for our famous champagne Beau Brunch

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OUTRAGEOUSNESS gua r a n teed

volume 7 issue 132

Se p t e m be r 10, 2012

chic SHALL T

we ather

Fa s h i o n ’ s Fa u x e s t N e w s S o u r c e * c h i c s h a l l o t. c o m

page 2

104° in the Shallot’s office

h ig h l ig h t s LABOR

Formerly just a chore, “partying during Fashion Week” is now officially listed on your job description, 3A

Sally Singer Back in Vogue With Her Own Capsule Collection

TO DO LIST 1. Borrow black-tie from Armani for CR thingy 2. RSVP to Alex’s after-party 3. Get Chanel Look 23 for Mon. shoot 4. MANI/PEDI!!!! 5. Make cocktail date w/ Chris Benz

(NEW PALTZ) “Have you ever seen such a purl?” exclaimed Sally Singer, proudly revealing her latest creation, a pair of maroon slippers rendered in the shape of Marc Jacobs’ Pilgrim booties, which she plans to give to her close friend David Byrne. The former T editrix is said to be “overjoyed” to be living upstate. In addition to making her own kombucha and penning a series of haikus about the joys of solitary cycling, Singer has become an accomplished knitter under the tutelage of fashion designer and fellow upstater Ryan Roche. Now, Singer has announced a collaboration with photographer Cass Bird, whose calendar has opened up considerably post-T. Bird will be photographing Singer’s wares on the local punk rock group Crucial Taunt. The collection will retail at and New Paltz’s own Groovy Blueberry.


After extensive testing of all 4,757 sex positions described in Cosmoplitan’s September issue, Joanna Coles lists her top five favorites, 3B

i n s i de EDITORIAL

“Just because my blog is called Man Repeller doesn’t mean that you fashion people don’t need to know my real name!” huffs Man Repeller, 3C


Now completely officebound, senior Daily staff said to be living entirely on fiber-rich Luna bars and funsize Twix, 3D


Designers Lead Backlash Against Pippa Middleton (NEW YORK) She has been in New York City for three days already, but Pippa Middleton’s outrageous boycott of MBFW has designers up in arms. “I am appalled that she came to town and didn’t call!” huffed Marlon Gobel while strolling Uma Thurman’s baby along the High Line. Max Azria is similarly furious. “I saved her a seat at my show next to Daisy Fuentes, but she didn’t even have the courtesy to RSVP!” Although Pippa Middleton was, in fact, spotted in the vicinity of Lincoln Center, Shallot sources confirm that she was in the neighborhood to try the bacon burger at P.J. Clarke’s.

HBO Pegs its Future on Andre Saraiva (NEW YORK) Socializing into the wee hours is all in a day’s work for club king Andre Saraiva, so no wonder he has never actually been spotted in daylight. Alan Ball, who is known to frequent Le Baron in Paris (although he finds the New York location “too B&T”), was so inspired by Saraiva’s nocturnal habits he is developing a spinoff of True Blood based on Saraiva’s fascinating lifestyle. While Jack Huston was originally fingered for the lead in True Club, as the show will be called, Ball has fielded several calls from Tom Cruise, who believes that this role could “revamp my career, or at least get people thinking of me as a vampire instead of a Scientologist.” p h oto i l l u s t r at i o n s : g e t t y i m a g e s ( 4 ) ; Pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 4 ) ; b fa n yc . c o m .



NYC Business and fashion come together in a unique way at LIM College. For nearly 75 years, we’ve been educating fashion’s business leaders. With hundreds of the industry’s top companies as partners, and with expert faculty, a rigorous curriculum, and our prime location in the world’s fashion capital, this is a hands-on, professional education — WHERE BUSINESS MEETS FASHION® — unlike anywhere else. • 800.677.1322 • 12 E. 53rd St. New York, NY



Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. © 2012 Maybelline LLC.

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