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Here&there n°4 - March/April - 7,40 ₏

Travels and culture

Here & there Special Scandinavia

Scandinavia through popular films, books and music Focus on Stockholm in summer Try Lapland


Beyond Retro The vintage legend Clothes for men and women accessories in UK and Sweden

BUS Two shops in Stockholm Drottninggatan 77 andTravel Åsögatan 114 differently Here&there n°4 - March/April

beyondretro.com bus.com


Summary

Every two months, we show you differently a place in the world. This time, come with us in Scandinavia, the cold and the (relatively) warm one. Discover its two seasons, its culture. Visit Stockholm and try the places Stockholmers like to hang around. If Stockholm begins barely to wake up after the winter, Lapland is still under the snow, out of space and time.

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Culture

Jump into Scandinavia through films, music and books. p 4-7

Focus on... Stockholm in Summer

Visits, food, bars and alcohol, Stockholm you'll not find in a book. p 8-11

Try...

Lapland, Far North, A fairy tale area. p 12-15

Contact us : contact@hereandthere.com Chief editor: Laura Esnault - Pictures: Jeanne Creys,Laura Esnault - Design: Janette Smith, Laura Esnault - Journalists : Mary Carlsson, Robert Adams, Bryan Jonsson, Rebecca Duperk Here&there n째4 - March/April


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Culture

Books There is more than Ingmar Bergman or the Millenium saga. For a jump in the North, follow us to see what is impossible to miss.

The Centenarian Who Climbed Out Through the Window and Disappeared Jonas Jonansson (2009) (Hundraåringen som klev ut genom fönstret och försvann)

After a long and eventful life Allan ends up in aB nursing home believing it to be the last stop. The only problem is that his health refuses to let him down and one day he turns 100. Everybody is expecting him at the big celebration: the mayor, the press, and the entire staff. But Allan doesn’t want to be a part of it. And he decides to climb out the window.

Here&there n°4 - March/April

Berlinerpoplene - Anne Benny and Schrimp Katarina Mazetti (2009) Birkefeldt Ragde (2004). (Familjegraven) Mazetti's debut, a bestseller in her native Sweden, centers on two lonely, 30something singles living in rural Sweden as they attempt to overcome the inner obstacles keeping them apart. The dialogueheavy story is told in breezy, alternating firstperson accounts that paint a vivid portrait of life in northern Sweden. Desiree, better known as Shrimp, is a quiet librarian with an intellectual streak dealing with the recent death of her husband. Benny is a dairy farmer too busy tending the family farmland to realize his loneliness. The two have a serendipitous first encounter at the graveyard and find an instant, irresistible connection between them.

Three brothers that all separates are brought together by the death of their mother. The elder one, Tor, makes turn the family farm with the breeding of pigs, Margido directs a company of undertaker's and Erlend is decorator of windows in Copenhagen. The meeting again are announced animated: the tension reaches its paroxysm when the question of the heritage leads the father to reveal a terrible secrecy. The novel follows their memories and the relations which are tied and untied, until this unexpected revelation the evening of Christmas: identity of the true father of the three brothers.


Culture

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Movies Tillsamans - Lukas Moodysson (2000)

Jalla! Jalla! - Josef Feres (2000)

Buddy - Morten Tyldum (2004)

Elisabeth tires of her husband Rolf, so she packs her bags, takes the kids and goes to her brother Göran. The year is 1975 and Göran lives in a commune called Together. Living in this leftist commune are people between the ages of 25 and 35, along with their children. It is there where most of the film takes place, and there where things happen that affect not only the extended family members, but a few more...

Roro and Måns are two best friends who work as park attendants, scooping dogpoop from the flowerbeds and thinking of themselves as the coolest of the crop. But everything is not as it seems. Måns is having potency problems and Roro is about to dare to introduce his swedish girlfriend to his traditional family who's planning for him an arranged marriage to a sweet girl, who'd else get sent back to Lebanon. While he is busy balancing keeping up appearances to help her, stalling the wedding plans and maintaining the relationship with his unknowing girlfriend, Måns is trying to fix his problem, using all kinds of methods.

Kristoffer is a billboard hanger, 24 years old and carefree. When his girlfriend Elisabeth duimps him for the boss of her trend bureau, his life falls into pieces. He feels like a loser. By coincidence some of Kristoffer's video diaries end up with the producer of the popular talk show "Karsten Tonight" in TV2. A few weeks later Kristoffer's life has become TV entertaiment.

Here&there n°4 - March/April


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Culture

Movies Dead snow - Tommy Wirkola (2009) (Død snø)

A ski vacation in Norway turns horrific for a group of medical students, as they find themselves confronted to an unimaginable menace: Nazi zombies. Tommy Wirkola said in an interview: "When we were about to sit down and write the actual script, we started thinking ‘What is more evil than a zombie’? A Nazizombie! We have a really strong war-history up in the north of Norway from World War Two, so it was fun to combine actual events with our own story. And you know Nazis have always been the ultimate villains in movies. Combine that with zombies and you really get something that no one would sympathise with."

Here&there n°4 - March/April

Kopps - Josef Feres (2003)

Popular music from Vittula - Reza Bagher (2004)

(Populärmusik från The small village of Vittula) Högboträsk is so peaceful that crime has become This movie is an eyenonexistent. The police opening and drastic story spend their shifts drinking coffee, eating hot dogs and about two close friends Matti and Niila, growing up chasing down runaway in the mid sixties in the cows. But the police harsh and conservative management board wants environment of a Finnishto discontinue the local speaking part of Tornedalen police force for lack of crime. This would mean the in Swedish Laponia, close to the Finnish border. Their big loss of income for the policemen, so they begin to dream is to become rock stars. stage crimes in order to This region feels less worthy preserve their jobs. This and has no real national includes burning down the local stand, hiring a drunk to identity, since they speak neither perfect Swedish nor steal a sausage and more... perfect Finnish and do not Adam Sandler and Columbia feel like real Swedes or Finns. Pictures bought the rights When they first hear the and announced their plans Beatles single Rock and Roll to remake the comedy into an English-language release, Music, their lives change forever. though the status is currently unknown.


Music

Culture

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Mando Diao Mixing garage rock sneer and Britpop sass -- along with a truckload of other influences -Borlange, Sweden's Mando Diao formed when its members were all still in their teens. The band's germination dates back to 1995, when singer/ songwriter/ keyboardist Daniel Häglund and singer/ songwriter/ guitarist Björn Dixgärd were in a band called Butler. Even after that group broke up, the pair continued playing and writing together, eventually bringing bassist Fredrik Nilsson, guitarist Gustaf Noren, and drummer Anton Grahnstrom into their fold; Nilsson and Grahnstrom were replaced by Carl Johan Fogelklou and Samuel Giers. By 1999, they were known as Mando Diao, having taken their name from one of Dixgärd's dreams.

Majesty and Capitol imprints; the acclaim for the EP and the similarities in their sound to the Strokes and the Hives raised Mando Diao's profile considerably, and the band went on tours of Sweden with the Hellacopters and Kent. Later that year the band released the singles Mr. Moon and The Band to stoke anticipation for their fulllength debut album, Bring 'Em In, which was largely recorded in their basement practice space. The following year, Mute Records released Bring 'Em In in the United States. The sophomore effort Hurricane Bar was released in the The group continued to band's native Sweden in hone their sound, blending 2004; a stateside release pop, mod, soul, R&B, and followed in 2005, and Ode Britpop elements into a to Ochrasy was issued the style that was quirky yet next year. While touring in timeless. In 2002 they support of the album, released their first EP, Mando Diao found time to Motown Blood, through the record their fourth studio

effort, Never Seen the Light of Day. The album was released internationally in late 2007, coinciding a solo tour by Björn Dixgärd. is released in 2009 and continue to increase their standing even further. No song is like the other, yet all of them are typical Mando Diao.The first single "dance with somebody" was already a top 5 smash in 5 countries. Their last CD, the MTV unplugged Above and Beyond is issued in 2011. Give me Fire

www.mandodiao.com to see the date ofgigs

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Focus on ... Going out in Stockholm

Café Opera A club close to the Opera, if you join the group on facebook, you have an access to the gästlist. Write your name, the entrence will be for free until 23. You'll test the swedish way of going out, and notice that the definition of a short dress is not the same in Sweden... Special point: the decoration, made of chandeliers and stuccos as well as modern design. http://www.cafeopera.se/ - Operahuset, Karl XII:s torg

De Svarta Fåren Just beside Chokladkoppen is the Svarta (Black Sheef), you can eat raindeer and elk. Same price than everywhere, but almost sure it will be a good meat. Stortorget 16 - www.desvartafaren.se String Café To eat something cheap and good (not that easy on Stokholm). Special point for the decoration. Try the room in the basement. Nytorgsgatan 38 -

Good to know Alcohol is very expensive in Sweden,. You can only buy alcohol in Systembolaget, controlled by the Swedish State. As the price depends of the degree of alcohol, the cheapest bad quality alcohol will cost only few krons less than the good one. Don't forget your ID: it's forbiden to sell alcohol to people under 20, and the employees check quite often, even if you look older. Clubs Count around 100 to 150 SEK (approximately 10-15€) for the cheapest club. Most of the clubs close between 1 and 3. Don't forget to bring your ID, you can't not enter in a club before 18 and sometimes 21. Debaser Our favoritte place in Stockholm. There is 2 Debaser: Debaser Medis (with elecro music, less good) and Debaser Medborgenplatsen (close to the water). Very good gigs (last year The XX i.e). It's the arty/bobo place in Stockolm. Special point for the clothes the guests are wearing. So swedish. http://www.debaser.se/

KGB Holded by Russian. The big window on the right of the bar is covered by a picture of a family member of the tenant or himself. There is often people wearing soviet unifors. Special point for the big boobs girl with her mini-uniform; escaped from a B-movie... It's a nice place, not that expensive, with gigs (most of time punk or balkan modern music like Gogol Bordello). http://kgb.nu/ - Malmskillnadsgatan 45

Chokladkoppen Cozy little café, not far from the Royal Palace in the very touristic medieval Gamla Stan (Old Town). You can't eat sandwiches, soups, or swedish pastries. If your lucky, you'll have a heart made by the waiter in your chocolate. During the summer, test the Full chocolate cup, for a chocolate overdose. Stortorget 18 Here&there n°4 - March/April


Focus on...

Stockholm Top 10 Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, is built on 14 islands connected by 57 bridges. The buildings, the greenery, the fresh air and the proximity to the water are distinctive traits of this city. The Royal National City Park, (the first National City Park in the world), is a green space that breathes for the city, and a constant presence in the crush of the city. With its 750 year history and rich cultural life, Stockholm offers a wide selection of world-class museums and attractions. Most of the city's attractions can be reached

on foot, and there’s a good chance of experiencing a lot of things in a short time. Experience big-city life, the history of civilization and natural scenery, all in the course of the same day. Visit Stockholm City Hall . Climb the City Hall tower for a view of Stockholm. Don't miss Gamla Stan , Stockholm's oldest area and one of the best preserved medieval city centers in the world. Walk through small winding streets lined with stores full of handicrafts, antiques, art galleries and cafés. The Royal Palace and Stockholm Cathedral are also located in Gamla Stan.

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some of the city's most popular attractions. Visit the world-famous warship the Vasa , the world’s oldest open-air museum Skansen , or Astrid Lindgren’s Junibacken . And don't miss the chance to see Stockholm from the water. Naturally a city built on 14 islands offers marvelous views over the water. There are many different sightseeing tours to choose from. And if fourteen islands aren’t enough, Stockholm offers a wonderful archipelago with 30,000 islands, islet rocks and skerries.

http://www.visitstockholm. com/

The green island of Djurgården is home to Here&there n°4 - March/April


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Focus on...

Stockholm in Summer

We don't care about The food shops Coop and explaining you what Hemköpf: to test all the cultural places you weird (but nevertheless good) food we don't have. can visit in Beware of the salty Stockholm. Buy a candies ! tourist guide. Try the sauna , i.e in Centralbadet. You're supposed to be naked,everybody is, but You can go to Slussen , Södermalm and SoFo (a lot nobody will tell you of vintage shop, bars, nice anything if you're not. Drottninggatan 88 atmosphere) and Gamla Stan (the Old Town, if you Östermal Saluhall : a food can stand the tourits). market hall, where you can Shop in Urban Outffiters , eat. Beside sushis restaurant, try the local first because it's Urban products. Outfitters, and it's cool. Östermalmstorg, 114 Secondly because it's situated in an very Some culture anyway beautiful old theatre. Pick up our advices, what we love in the city.

Biblioteksgatan 5

PUB, a kind of Galeries Lafayettes with a lot of design furniture Hötorget Here&there n°4 - March/April

The Stockholm Stadtmuseet (City Museum) is for free. They have interesting exhibition. Anyway, some bars we talk

about are in this area, so jump in the Museum, you'll have something cultural to tell to your Mum when you'll be back.

Ryssgården, Slussen


Focus on...

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Kanelbulle is a swedish typical pastrie made with cinnamon.

A Royal Guard The amusement park Gröna Lund Tivoli, on the Djurgården island Lilla Allmänna Gänd 9 In Djurgården is also the Skanson Park, for some swedish folklore and to see the life at the beginning of the 20th century in Sweden. Same island again: the Vasa Museet, the proud of Sweden. A boat that sunk just few miles after its first trip.

Here&there n°4 - March/April


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Lapland: the Far North In the Lapland region in the far north of Sweden, you can find the most vast, dramatic and spectacular untamed wilderness areas that Europe has to offer. Much of this magnificent natural treasure is within easy access of visitors from around the world, who come to Lapland, Sweden to experience the peace, tranquility, grandeur, poetry and drama of the Arctic landscape. Other areas of the Lapland wilderness can only be reached by experienced hikers and adventurers.

Nature's Best arrangement Pathfinder Lapland Most international visitors arrive in Lapland through the town of Kiruna, a 1.5 Here&there n°4 - March/April

hour flight from Stockholm. From there they can venture out to major Lapland mountain resorts such Abisko, Björkliden and Riksgränsen, and to the massif around Kebnekaise, Sweden´s highest mountain, another centre

The extreme northern latitude, above the Arctic Circle, has blessed Lapland with some the world-famous northern lights.

for hikers and adventurers. In Jukkasjärvi near Kiruna is the world famous Icehotel, with a wide variety of events and activities for visitors throughout the winter season. Lapland is also home to the Sami people, the native Scandinavians. The Lapland towns of Kiruna and are centres for those interested in traditional Sami culture.

The greatest wilderness in Western


Europe Laponia is a conglomeration of four national parks in western Lapland, included on Unesco´s World Heritage List for its unique nature and as a historic site for Sami culture.

Sarek National Park The jewel of Laponia Hiking and trekking in Sarek National Park rewards the visitor with magnificent, unspoiled vistas. It lies in the Laponia World Heritage Site in northern Sweden and is one of Europe’s last remaining wildernesses.

National Parks in its purest forms There is a large number of

Try...

national parks and nature reserves throughout Lapland and Northern Sweden, where travellers can experience various types of unique Arctic

Laponia is a conglomeration of four national parks in western Lapland, included on Unesco´s World Heritage List scenery, independently or in a wide range of organised tours and excursions, at any time of year.

13 sites are included on the list mainly for their unique nature, the third for its cultural values.

Enjoy the Extremes of Light The extreme northern latitude, above the Arctic Circle, has blessed Lapland in the far north of Sweden with some equally extreme, world-famous light phenomena, attracting travellers from all around the globe.

World Heritage Sites

Two seasons as opposite as can be

Northern Sweden has three sites included on Unesco´s World Heritage List of sites regarded as especially invaluable to all of humanity. Two of these

It´s impossible to say whether Northern Sweden is actually more beautiful in summer or in winter, although it´s certainly much more accessible and easily

Here&there n°4 - March/April


14 travelled during the warmer season, which generally spans from May through September. The contrasts between the two seasons could hardly be sharper.

The Saami One of the oldest living cultures in Norway, and possibly the world is that of the Sami people, who have been surviving in the barren landscapes of Sami Land (the area commonly known as Lapland) for thousands of years, some findings suggest as long as 4,000 years. They mixed with Germanic tribes years

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The name 'Lapp' means piece of cloth or patch, and is considered an outdated, and often derogative term. The name 'Sami' derives from their own name from themselves, is therefore a more acceptable term, and is the race's preferred name.

Lifestyle ago, and produced the Vikings, who raped and pillaged their way across most of Europe. However, their surviving ancestors are a much more peaceful race, and pride themselves on the fact they have never been involved in a war. Over half of their current population live in the part of Sami Land that falls into Norway, the region called Finnmarksvidda, though the area covers the northern extremes of Sweden, Finland, and as far east as Russia.

They traditionally survived by hunting and fishing, and

in more recent years, by herding reindeer, which have also become their staple food. Every part of the reindeer is put to use the skin for shoes and clothing, the bones for handicrafts. The Sami are a nomadic people, and in the summer months many still live in their tepee like homes, known as Katas, which can easily be taken down and reconstructed in a different place.

Here&there n째4 - March/April


Here&there n째4 - March/April

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