Black Curls

A Natural Hair Magazine

Black Curls May 2015 Issue

Back to the roots

Hairstyles Inspired from Africa

Nikia Phoenix Modelling with Natural Hair

Hair Type Figure out Yours

The Mane Objective Growing longer,

healthier Hair

Contents

Black Curls May 2015 Issue Editor’s Note 3

The Revolution of Natural Hair

Hair Talk 4

Natural Hair Type Guide

Hairspiration 8

The Art of Hair

Hair Celebs 13 Nikia Phoenix

Hair Care 16 Make it Grow!

Credits Cover: Linda Aguila Photographer: Castello Publisher: Paris 8 Publishing Editor: Cécilia Naquin Designer: MC2L Indesign Ltd. Contributors: Curlita Daniels Lydvina Freeman Leila April Danielle Okdani

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Photographer: Greg Lotus ©Essence Magazine

Editor’s note

The Revolution of Natural Hair S

pring is here, and the aroma of change is in the air. This season is filed with growth, passion, prosperity and an immense amount of energy. Change is something that you have to want for yourself and within our community, returning natural is a tremendous change in how we see ourselves. The media portrays beauty in such superficial ways that it can be hard to be ourselves because of the fear of not being understood or accepted. Now is the time for us to stand up and break the mold. We are no longer bound to what society says is beautiful, and we have the freedom to express ourselves entirely.

It is this change into freer beings that is deeply rooted inside of us all.

T

here is a revolution going on, and the aroma of change is in the air. This season is filed with growth, passion, prosperity and an immense amount of energy. Change is something that you have to want for yourself and within our community, returning natural is a tremendous change in how we see ourselves. The media portrays beauty in such superficial ways that it can be hard to be ourselves because of the fear of not being understood or accepted. Now is the time for us to stand up and break the mold.

We are no longer bound to what society says is beautiful, and we have the freedom to express ourselves entirely. The mission is to educate

and empower individuals embarking on natural hair journeys by focusing on natural hair, beauty, fashion, and overall health and wellness. We emphasize personal style and individuality while highlighting the hottest natural hair trends and hair care products on the market. We celebrates the beauty and health of natural hair, and aims to inspire women all over the globe to wear their natural hair with poise and confidence.

BLACK CURLS represents this evolving culture of women who are unique, daring and driven to redefine the ideals of beauty.

“Join the movement and let’s make natural beautiful one curl at a time”.

Cecilia Cécilia Naquin ­– Editor In Chief

Follow Black Curls on

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Model : Toni ŠMy Natural Sistas

Natural Hair Type Guide Which Type Are You?

H

air typing is definitely not the 100% solution to understand your hair, but it does provide you with a good starting point. Knowing your hair type will enable you to choose more suitable products and will help provide you with guidance for how you should handle your hair. By Curlita Daniels

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Hair Talk 3C - Curly Coily Type 3c hair has voluminous, tight curls in corkscrews, approximately the circumference of a pencil or straw.

The curls can be either kinky, or very tightly curled, with lots and lots of strands densely packed together. Getting this type of hair to blow dry straight is more challenging than for 3a or 3b, but it usually can be done. The very tight curls are usually fine in texture.

Quick Tips

©Naturallycurly.com

• Hydrate and repair your Curly Coily hair with a moisturizing cleanser • Use rich and nourishing conditioners to protect your fragile Curly Coily hair • Use styler that offer maximum moisture: creams, butter and oils. Hair milks are a great hydrating styler that will keep your curly coily hair manageable all day.

4A - Coily Springy Type 4a is tightly coiled hair that has an «S» pattern. It has more moisture than 4b; it has a definite curl pattern.

The circumference of the spirals is close to that of a crochet needle. The hair can be wiry or fine-textured.

It is very fragile with lots of strands densely packed together. Type 4 hair has fewer cuticle layers than other hair types, which means it has less natural protection from damage.

Quick Tips

• Start your Coily Springy regimen with co-washing with a Type 4a recommended conditioner. This will cleanse and condition your coils without stripping out its natural oils • Restore and renew your dry Coily Springy hair with a deep conditioner once a week. Hydrate, soften and nourish your Coily Springy hair with moisturizers

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Hair Talk 4B - Coily Crimpy Type 4b has a «Z» pattern, less of a defined curl pattern. Instead of curling or coiling, the hair bends in sharp angles like the letter «Z». Type 4 hair has a cotton-like feel. The hair is very wiry, very tightly coiled or bent and very, very fragile; you must take great care when working with it. Type 4 hair can range from fine/thin to wiry/coarse with lots and lots of strands densely packed together. Type 4b hair often shrinks up to 75% of the actual hair length.

Quick Tips

• Use a heavy creamy cleanser to keep your coils healthy and moisturized • Detangling your Coily Crimpy hair should be an essential part of your hair care routine. Detangle with a conditioner that has lots of slip and your favorite wide-tooth comb • Seal in moisture and add shine to your dry fragile Coily Crimpy hair with hair milks and styling butters. Deep condition weekly to ensure strong healthy and hydrated coils. To intensify your deep treatment add heat.

4C - Coily Ziggly

Type 4c hair is composed of curl patterns that will almost never clump without doing a specific hair style. It can range from fine/thin/super soft to wiry/coarse with lots of densely packed strands.

4c hair has been described as a more "challenging" version of 4b hair. Some say 4c looks identical to 4b except that the curls are so tightly kinked, there is seemingly no definition. 4c hair can shrink more than 75%.

Quick Tips

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• Limit your cleansing to heavy co-washing conditioners • Use products like oils, creams and butters to moisturize and seal your coils • Use heavy pudding and creams to help elongate your Coily Ziggly hair. Don’t forget to deep condition every 3 days to ensure healthy strong coils.

Hair Talk Product recommandations for every hair type

Conditioner Curl Junkie Beauticurls Strengthening Hair Conditioner

A word from the Sister Scientist!

This is excellent for hair that does not need a lot of moisture, but needs help with detangling and fuzziness. Restores your hair’s bounce and shine. $22.00

Shampoo

Kinky-Curly Come Clean Moisturizing Shampoo This exclusive blend of mandarin orange extract will gently clean your hair and scalp of dulling buildup while sea kelp will help maintain proper moisture balance. $12.00

Styler SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curling Gel Souffle Defines and promotes curls with a soft, smooth finish.

It has coconut and flax seed oils that nourish, hydrate and seal the hair shaft to protect against environmental stressors, and promote natural oil retention. $11.99

Erica Douglas There are two types Curly-HairType-Chart of systems that are used to classify our hair, one being Andre Walker’s Hair Type Classification System and the other is the LOIS system. However, what Black Naps finds to be the easiest to follow and the most visually descriptive system would be Andre Walker’s hair typing system.

The classification system ranges from straight hair types to curly hair types. Curly hair types include: 3a, 3b, 3c, 4a, 4b, and 4c.

The best way to see your true curl pattern is after you have washed your hair and your hair has air dried without product.

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Hairspiration

The Art of Hair With Sephora Joannes

By Lydvina Freeman

S

ephora Joannes is a hairdresser born in Martinique, now based in France, who has decided bring her knowledge to artistic landscapes making a tribute to the sculptural work of this African legacy. She has runned several catwalks, events and artistic hairdressing projects as the one she made for Haara Paris, making a tribute to Okhai Ojeikere.

Sephora Joannes is a talented young woman who Martinique, Europe ...My research turned into was able to sublimate these traditional hairstyles travel and I continue to explore capillary tracks. that we sometimes see these Black and White Finally, it is thanks to the help of a team of pictures of another time. She chose to work on hairdressers, graphic designers, photographers curly hair, showing that this texture opens a huge and hands valuable work that I could make my playground for creativity. I had atproject. That is, presenting African aesthetics in a tended his show Afro hairstyles in glamorous and cool atmosphere!”

2012 and this series of photos on the These manes are occasion of the week of the Overseas Loving one’s hair is loving like clouds, light oneself is just beautiful!

The versatility of kinky hair

and soft, a sort of raw material that can be sculpted in all kinds of styles

“Since my return to natural, I devote a passion for hair and especially frizzy and curly hair.

These manes are like clouds, light and soft, a sort of raw material that can be sculpted in all kinds of styles and that’s why I wanted to pay homage to my favorite African hairstyles and revisit them in my own way.“My inspirations are diverse: Fulani, Masai, Ethiopia,

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Sephora Joannes is a talented young woman who was able to sublimate these traditional hairstyles that we sometimes see these Black and White pictures of another time. She chose to work on curly hair, showing that this texture opens a huge playground for creativity. I had attended his show Afro hairstyles in 2012 and this series of photos on the occasion of the week of the Overseas is just beautiful!

Hairspiration This page and next pages Makeup: Akossiwoa Photographer: Aurélie Flamand

Hairdresser Séphora Joannes

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Hairspiration “Since my return to natural, I devote a passion for hair and especially frizzy and curly hair.

These manes are like clouds, light and soft, a sort of raw material that can be sculpted in all kinds of styles and that’s why I wanted to pay homage to my favorite African hairstyles and revisit them in my own way.

“My inspirations are diverse: Fulani, Masai, Ethiopia, Martinique, Europe ...My research turned into travel and I continue to explore capillary tracks.

Finally, it is thanks to the help of a team of hairdressers, graphic designers, photographers and hands valuable work that I could make my project. That is, presenting African aesthetics in a glamorous and cool atmosphere!”

African inspired Sephora Joannes is a talented young woman who was able to sublimate these traditional hairstyles that we sometimes see these Black and White pictures of another time.

She chose to work on curly hair, showing that this texture opens a huge playground for creativity.

I had attended his show Afro hairstyles in 2012 and this series of photos on the occasion of the week of the Overseas is just beautiful!

“Since my return to natural, I devote a passion for hair and especially frizzy and curly hair.

These manes are like clouds, light and soft, a sort of raw material that can be sculpted in all kinds of styles and that’s why I wanted to pay homage to my favorite African hairstyles and revisit them in

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my own way.

“My inspirations are diverse: Fulani, Masai, Ethiopia, Martinique, Europe ...My research turned into travel and I continue to explore capillary tracks.

Finally, it is thanks to the help of a team of hairdressers, graphic designers, photographers and hands valuable work that I could make my project. That is, presenting African aesthetics in a glamorous and cool atmosphere!”

Complex and beautiful

Sephora Joannes is a talented young woman who was able to sublimate these traditional hairstyles that we sometimes see these Black and White pictures of another time.

She chose to work on curly hair, showing that this texture opens a huge playground for creativity.

I had attended his show Afro hairstyles in 2012 and this series of photos on the occasion of the week of the Overseas is just beautiful!

Pushing the art of hair forward

Finally, it is thanks to the help of a team of hairdressers, graphic designers, photographers and hands valuable work that I could make my project. That is, presenting African aesthetics in a glamorous and cool atmosphere!” curly hair, showing that this texture opens a huge playground for creativity. I had attended his show Afro hairstyles in 2012 and this series of photos on the occasion of the week of the Overseas is just beautiful! •

Hairspiration

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Hair Celebs

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This page and next pages Makeup: Lindsey Calloway Photographer: Angel Jordan

Hair Celebs

Nikia Phoenix A Natural Hair Icon

By Leila April

T

he South Carolina native, started off as a television news producer before becoming a model. Since being discovered in a coffee shop, her freckled face has been in magazines, on billboards, and on television. She writes a blog called Model Liberation where she shares insight into the fashion industry while also promoting natural beauty. Blackcurls gets to the root of the matter with Nikia Phoenix in an exclusive interview.

How long have you been modeling and how did you get into it?

Nikia: I’ve been modeling for about 5 years. I’ve got Greg at Alternative Apparel to thank for giving me first job. It all started on a Saturday morning talking about vintage t-shirts over bagels and coffee. He gave me a chance and look how things have turned out.

I started off with Alternative Apparel. I’ve had editorials in Essence and Glamour. The latter was the one with my mom which got us interviewed on the Tyra Show. Last year, I had a Dell commercial. I’ve done some work for Melody Ehsani and Blood is the New Black. I’ve got a full page ad in circulation for Tavis Smiley’s America I Am exhibit. I am also one of the fortunate souls in the Wrangler Red Campaign.

Is it a challenge to be a brown-skinned, kinkyhaired, freckle-faced girl in modeling? Or does it work to your advantage?

N: It’s just a challenge to be a black woman in general. We come in all different shades and shapes, but fashion won’t make enough room for all of us. When I’m the sole woman of colour chosen for a project, I have mixed feelings. I’m thankful that I’ve been picked to represent us, but I can’t possibly rep for the whole spectrum.

My mom is always concerned that I won’t get jobs because I don’t have a relaxer or because I let my freckles shine. I’m just rolling with the punches.

How do stylists work with your natural texture when you go on jobs?

N: Sometimes, it’s challenging. I was very fortunate on the Juco shoot to have a stylist who’s

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Hair Celebs The best thing about being natural is the love I feel for

being true to myself, and the love I get from other natural

women. There are the best things about being au naturelle.

It’s a sisterhood.

done black hair, and she worked it out! Some stylists just leave my hair the way it is. Others really get in there and create great looks.

Do you have any exciting upcoming projects?

N: My one exciting project is my wedding. I haven’t really started planning it, but I’m looking forward to the whole shabang.

So why did you decide to go natural?

N: My hair needed a break from all the torture. It was so damaged and, frankly, I was bored with it.

My fiancee really encouraged me to go natural.

He’s so supportive of me.

When and how did you transition into natural hair?

N: I got my last relaxer December 2008. When it started growing out, my fiancee gave me a really cool cut. I had a really funky look for a few months, but it worked with my personality. Then finally, last summer, we chopped off the rest of the scraggly pieces. I never knew I had these little curls and kinks until I let go.

In terms of hair routine, what’s the best/most effective thing you do for your hair?

N: The best thing for my hair is moisture, moisture, moisture. I use leave-in conditioner every other day and olive oil moisturizer every day. If I don’t do this, then my hair will be one big fuzz ball. And that’s not cute.

What mistakes have you made with your hair that you’ve learned from?

N: When I was younger, I’m talking pre-relaxer, I hated getting my hair combed. My mother may not have learned from those painful times, but I sure did. Our hair does not need to be pulled on and tugged on. If you’re in pain, then your hair is hurting too.

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Hair Celebs How do you wear your hair when you’re not modeling?

N: I’m a wash-and-go kind of girl. My hair is very low maintenance, and I like it that way.

How does your hair express who you are?

N: My hair has these natural auburn highlights that really come out during the summer. I feel like a firecracker just waiting to let loose. And I can’t

Find out more about Nikia Phoenix modeling career on modelliberation.com and buy the gorgeous blue eye-liner and other make-up items on kisforkinky.com

predict what my hair is going to look like for the day, and I like it like that. My hair is just as free as I am.

The best thing about being natural is the love I feel for being true to myself, and the love I get from other natural women are the best things about being au naturelle. It’s a sisterhood. •

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Hair Care

Make it Grow!

By Danielle Okdani

T

he general consensus from women seems to be that ladies with long hair have some secrets they’re holding on to.

There must be some mystical combination of tools, products or techniques they use in order to get hair that grows past your shoulder blades. As of today my hair is just slightly past my waist and I’m still growing. When speaking to women, “what’s your secret?” is a popular question. My usual response is “I take good care of my hair.” I realize now that “taking good care of” something means different things to every individual. What I consider routine in my hair care practices, may be foreign or unintuitive to others.Coming to that realization compelled me to share some of the key features in my healthy hair growth journey.

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Hair Care

Model: Cassandre Beccai Šcassandrebeccai.com

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Hair Care

The Mane Objective Moisturize and “Seal”

moisturized.

Try to alternate wearing your hair out and loose with wearing it in updos that “hide” the ends of your hair, keeping them protected from the elements, and from brushing against your collar, shoulders or back. If your hair is too short for an updo, keeping them moisturized is enough.

At night, protect your ends by wearing a satin scarf or bonnet and sleeping on a satin pillowcase. This will protect your ends (and the entire length of your hair) from snagging/ pulling/snapping on harsher fabrics.

African American hair textures are notoriously dry. My hair is no exception, so keeping my hair well moisturized helps it remain pliable and elastic. Moisturized hair is less prone to breaking and snapping. It behaves better and is easier to style.

I will then deep condition with a moisturizing conditioner and rinse out.

I will apply a moisturizer to every strand in small sections ensuring that each strand gets moisturized.

Lastly I follow with coconut oil to “seal” in the Low Manipulation moisturizer I applied before I style my hair.

On a daily or every-other-day basis (depending on Do you twirl your hair around your fingers? Stop! what your hair needs) I will moisturize to ensure Do you let the ends of your hair brush against my hair never gets dried out or crunchy/crispy. your collar or clothing every single day? Stop!

I deep condition weekly, and at Do you comb and brush and times every other week. But I’ve flatiron and curl your hair You will learn how often noticed my hair responds best daily? Stop! your hair needs moisture Do you get the picture? Good! when deep conditioned every week. by noticing how it feels Low manipulation is key for You will learn how often your retaining growth and getting hair needs moisture by noticing and seeing how it responds long healthy hair. If you to your touch. how it feels and seeing how it normally style your hair, and responds to your touch. use heating tools daily, you Your “youngest” hair is growing directly at your will notice and incredible difference in your hair scalp. This is your “new growth” as it’s often by cutting back. Instead, opt for styles that will referred to. Which means the hair at the ends of last you a week, such as twists or twist-outs, each strand is the “oldest.” The ends of your hair braidouts, buns, or flatirons/rollersets that don’t “make or break” your length. This bit of hair is need heat touch ups each day. Try to comb and the most delicate because it has been through brush your hair only on wash days if you can. Use so much. It has received the bulk of the damage your hands to smooth areas and keep your hands simply by hanging around for as long as it has! out of your hair during the day.

Protect your ends

You must first ensure that you have no split ends.

If you do, trim your ends to just above the splits.

Then you must keep the ends very well

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So there you have it! The “Secret’s” Out! Try these three techniques and you will notice your hair retaining length like never before. •

Hair Care

4

Natural Oils That promote

Hair Growth Argan Oil Argan Oil is rich in essential fatty acids, anti-oxydants, and vitamin E. It benefits hair by keeping it mosturized.

Coconut Oil Coconut Oil is rich in vitamin E, vitamin K, fatty acids, protein and iron. It benefits hair by preventing hair breakage.

Castor Oil Castor Oil is rich in Omega-6, fatty acids and vitamin E. It benefits hair by strenghtening hair strands.

Olive Oil Olive Oil is rich in Omega-3, fatty acids and vitamin E. It benefits the hair by restoring shine and vitality.

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