Culinaire #2:3 (july:august 2013)

Page 47

The common thread among them is an eclectic approach to BBQ. All combine elements of heady Kansas City, and the more subtle Memphis and Carolina styles. Bookers Crab Shack and Big D’s use robust hickory, while Big T’s has a ready Okanagan source of delicate apple wood. The heart of the operations is the smoke oven, with the temperature set low to create slow BBQ. Their sauces are not overly sweet either, unlike many commercial brands. Bookers’ BBQ maestro is Mason Baker and he characterizes the profile Southern/Louisiana; their aim is to be consistent and perfect. The smoker is affectionately named Bonnie (she holds sixty racks of ribs and twelve briskets at a time) and opening the door makes make one drool. Mason’s divulged secret for perfect brisket is simple - BBQ low and slow about 12 hours but use the thermometer to verify an internal temperature of 91° C (195° F). Give your butcher ample notice to get

you a brisket, with lots of fat, for juicy, succulent results. The rub melds with the fat to create a great bark or crust on the meat. Common elements in their rubs are paprika, pepper, salt and a touch of sugar. The three house made sauces are a sweet, sticky, peppery Kansas City, a light mustard Carolina with a hint of apple and cider, and thick full-bodied Maple Bourbon with charred onion and a bottle of Jim Beam in each batch. They make their own pastrami, Andouille and you have to try the alligator sausage. Derek Davis owns and operates Big D’s at the Calgary Farmer’s Market. He is larger than life, with a ready smile as he greets the long line up. He keeps five Cook Shack smokers turning out brisket, pork and beef ribs and pulled pork. His secret to a fabulous brisket is 24 hours of marinating before 17 hours in the smoker. No paprika; black pepper is his rub base. Alas, he has no time to make his own sauces, but the crunchy deli slaw, creamy potato salad and not

too sweet corn bread are great sides to melt-in-the-mouth brisket; and you have to try the St. Louis ribs or a crusty beef rib with dark and rich baked beans or smoked brisket chili. Nikki Bond was featured in April on Food Network Canada’s You Gotta Eat Here. She started Big T’s along with her mother in 2004 by McMahon stadium. They operate a concession across from Nashville North during the Stampede. Nikki grew up in the restaurant business with both mother and father each owning establishments here and in BC. Nikki and Ryan now own the popular eatery that features the original formulations, some with a Texas twist. Bill runs the kitchen where the Southern Pride smoker runs 24/7. It BBQ’s 300 kg (650 lbs.) at a time; ribs, chicken, twelve briskets, and pork butts that slow cook for 20 hours. They make their own sauces - a full bodied Maple Bourbon with caramelized onions, a tart Carolina mustard, a thick, chunky tomato Smokin’


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