ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES APRIL 2025 Culinary
THE CALGARY STAMPEDE IS EXCITED TO ANNOUNCE THE CHAMPIONS OF THE 2025 STAMPEDE CELLAR SHOWDOWN INTERNATIONAL WINE COMPETITION, SHOWCASING THE BEST-OF-THE-BEST IN CANADIAN AND INTERNATIONAL WINE.
Sip, swirl and savour the top wines of the 2025 Stampede Cellar Showdown, with the best bites provincial restauranteurs have to offer, at Stampede Cellar Uncorked on May 31, 2025 and at the Stampede Cellar Champion Wine Experience at The Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth, July 4 – 13, 2025!
GRAND CHAMPION CedarCreek Estate VQA Chardonnay 2021 RESERVE GRAND CHAMPION Bodegas LAN Rioja Gran Reserva 2016
Volume 13 / No. 10 / April 2025
8 Chef’s Tips
Two Calgary chefs and two Edmonton chefs share their recipes for using rotisserie chickens and tips for making them
34 Making the Case … for supporting our neighbours to the west! 36 Etcetera… What’s new?
38 Open That Bottle with Dominic Caracciolo, owner of Mercato Gourmet
With Spring in the air and the changing of the seasons to a brighter and, hopefully, warmer one, our minds are turning to fresh colours and long drinks, so we asked photographer Katarzyna Kowalewska, of Live Your Dream Photography, for something fresh that captured this feeling. Many thanks to Kasia, we love her photograph!
12 Don’t Judge a Fruit or a Vegetable by its Peel
If it’s ugly, it couldn’t possibly taste good, right? by Adrianne Lovric
14 Glazed Over: Buckwheat Banana Bread
While you may think that you don’t need another banana bread recipe, we think you’ll enjoy this one! by
Renée Kohlman
16 Purple Prose: The Joys of Lavender!
Culinary lavender can be used in everything from dressings to desserts, and from cupcakes to cocktails! by Linda Garson
20 The Spirit of Spring …three recipes where asparagus is the star! by Natalie Findlay
22 Convenient Cocktails – are here to stay!
A crop of premium, quality focused, ready-to-pour, super convenient cocktails by Tom Firth and Linda Garson
24 Serving up Deals …Alberta restaurants offer myriad ways to eat out for less by Shelley Boettcher
26 Alberta Entrepreneurs Bring Innovation… and grit (no, not dirt!) to gardening in small spaces by Lucy Haines
30 April Spirits – Tequila Time!
We’re thinking ahead to Cinco de Mayo with ten tequilas we’re delighted to recommend – and why by Tom Firth and Linda Garson
32 Fruit Beers are in Season Love ‘em or hate ‘em, the variety of fruit beers on our shelves is almost endless by David Nuttall
The Times, They Are NOT A-Changin’…
So can I please repeat our mantra of the last 13 years?
Buy Canadian, buy local. Buy Canadian, buy local. Buy Canadian, buy local. It's been over sixty years since Bob Dylan wrote his anthem calling for social and political change. This isn't the place for politics, but more than ever, we need to be proud Canadians, standing up for our farmers, producers, ranchers, growers, and even wineries, breweries and distilleries. Supporting them by buying their products, and feeling good that this is the right thing to do.
Spring has begun, starting the cycle of renewal and hope, and along with it in Alberta - the first green shoots. So in this issue, we have some delicious, fresh asparagus recipes for you in anticipation of the start of the season
at the end of this month (it’s so short though, and is finished by early June!).
We’re always looking ahead, and planning for upcoming festivals and notable days to try and spark your imagination while there’s enough time to prepare and make it happen. May brings the festival of Cinco de Mayo (it’s been celebrated since Mexico’s victory, 163 years ago now!), and we’ve been tracking down some new and special tequilas to help you to decide which is right for your celebration. There are 637 different tequilas available in our province, so hopefully we can help narrow down the choices.
And some early varieties of lavender will start to flower soon from later next month, so we wanted you to have some recipes up your sleeve for when the harvest is full-on, although you can buy
the cut and dried flower heads all year round to practice with.
We’re also taking a look at ways to eat out for less and get the best value for your nights out, as well as less than attractive veg: those crooked carrots, odd onions, and misshapen mushrooms that still taste as good as the perfect produce!
I hope there’s something in this issue to pique your interest, and you enjoy reading it.
Adrianne Lovric is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publicly traded companies. Fuelled by caffeine and curiosity, she always says yes to dark roast and opportunities for new adventures. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.
Shelley Boettcher
Shelley is an award-winning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world, including The Globe and Mail and the Calgary Herald. She’s the author of the bestselling books, Uncorked: The Definitive Guide to Alberta's Best Wines $25 and Under, and currently splits her time between Calgary and Italy. Find her on Instagram @shelleyboettcher.
For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Lucy Haines
A long-time freelance writer, Lucy specializes in travel, food, arts, and entertainment. In a 30-year-plus career writing newspaper and magazine features, Lucy has interviewed celebrities, reviewed theatre productions and restaurants, and sampled foods around the world. Lucy covered news for Metro Newspaper Edmonton for a decade, and was editor at Alberta Prime Times, the province’s senior lifestyle news magazine, for several years.
Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. We are committed to support Indigenous chefs and amplify their voices to bring awareness of the food and culture of the First Nations.
CRAFTED FOR MOMENTS TO SAVOUR.
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NEW TO ALBERTA
There are some big anniversary celebrations this year in our restaurant scene! Congratulations go to Charcut and NOtaBLE, both opening 15 years ago, and both as strong and popular as ever. And to their siblings, Charbar and The Nash, who are both ten years old (and still as strong and popular as ever!). Congrats too to Minas Brazilian Steakhouse, who also opened in 2015, and still as good as ever! Which other Alberta restaurants are having big anniversaries this year?
Super Variety is the new kid on the block in Inglewood! From the stable of Calgary’s Our Daily Brett and Actually Pretty Good pizza, it was their Neighbour Coffee location, but they’ve cleverly opened up the space right through to the back for more continuity with their Business & Pleasure cocktail bar, and added a retail section of olive oil, conservas, condiments, drinks (including alcoholic ones!) and more. So now you can get their superb sandwiches (we loved the Sunday Sub and T.B.C.) and elevated comfort food, such as the delicious wedge salad, and fries with super salt and roasted garlic aioli, and excellent cocktails. 11-7 pm, Wednesday-Sunday at 1327a 9 Avenue SE, supervariety.ca
There’s no stopping Bodega Tapas Bar! In addition to their flagship location at Sabor, and restaurants in Edmonton’s Highlands, 124th Street, Ellerslie, St. Albert and Sherwood Park, they’ve just opened their seventh
location in Old Strathcona at 10314 Whyte Avenue. They’re serving up a wonderful selection of both meaty and veggie tapas, grilled meat and seafood dishes, rice and paellas, charcuterie, and so many spreads for your breads, all washed down with your choice from the extensive cocktail and drinks list. Rumour is that Calgary’s getting a Bodega soon! From 4 pm, closed Mondays, bodegayeg.ca
A huge Mahalo to Joel and Chera Harris for sharing the love and spirit of Hawaii with their new restaurant, Aloha Modern Kitchen, in the fully renovated former Gaucho Brazilian BBQ space. If you’ve eaten at J Spot in Avenida’s Fresh & Local Market & Kitchens, your mouth will already be watering in anticipation of this menu (don’t worry, J Spot is still there, and you can get their dirty fries at Aloha too!). Soak in the island vibes of this laid-back atmosphere with the warm, inviting, sand to sky colours, and Harris’ art from his years of Hawaiian culture and heritage in Maui. So many good dishes to share and enjoy here - Huli Huli chicken (marinated in pineapple juice for three days, flame-seared, and served in a smoking cloche) and the lip-smacking Fat Chow Funn noodles, are just two of many! Do be sure to have at least one of bar manager, Jeremy Bennet’s cocktails too! 5920 Macleod Trail SW, seven days from 11 am.
Lady Bea’s English Tea House has opened in Edmonton’s former Manor Café spot. An homage to owner Antonia
Rosa’s tea connoisseur mother, Beatriz, there are four beautifully decorated and furnished, Victorian-style parlour rooms over two floors, and five different tea offerings. Choose the Royal Tea Experience, Afternoon Tea Experience, Garden Tea Experience, Sweetheart Tea Experience, all with different menus and at different prices, and there’s Tea with Teddy for the little ones. The à la carte menu offers sandwiches, soups, salads, and quiche, with gluten-free options too. Brunch is served Saturdays, Sundays, and holiday Mondays, with more house-made treats and your pick of fine teas (cocktails are on offer too!). 10109 125 Street, closed Tuesdays, ladybeas.ca
Calgary has a new South African café and gift shop - Baobab Cafe & Boutique in Kensington. Dani and Zantel du Toit’s dream took three years to come to fruition, and if you’re familiar with South African food you’ll feel right at home - and if it’s new to you, you have so many treats in store! Do allow plenty of time for your visit – when you’ve finished your bobotie, vetkoek and mince, boerwurst, slap chips, Cape brandy pudding, milk tart, peppermint crisp bar, and koeksisters (yes we ate all of that, and we’re here to tell you that Chef Francois Strauss is doing a great job!), Baobab is an emporium of beautiful South African housewares, gifts, shoes and handbags, packaged goods, as well as food from local Alberta artisans. And there’s more… afternoon teas, wine tastings, and catering too! 124 10 Street NW, from 11 am, closed Mondays, baobabcalgary.com
Start your day or end your night at Edmonton’s Boa & Hare Coffee and Cocktails, a new restaurant concept from Winnie Chen (of Fu’s Repair Shop), her brother William, and business partner Wilson Wong (last year they took over the long-standing, quick service banh mi restaurant, Van Loc). With such a pedigree (and with Chen’s uncle, chef Tommy Chung in the kitchen), it’s no surprise that Boa and Hare has come out of the gate strong, hoping to breathe more life into Chinatown’s Pacific Mall, and bring in a younger demographic to revitalize the neighbourhood. And the name? It’s William and Wilson’s Chinese zodiac signs! Seven days 9-3 pm, cocktail hours Wednesday-Sunday coming soon at 127, 9700 105 Avenue NW. boaandhare.ca
Union Social Room has opened in Calgary’s Bridgeland, in the ex-Cabeza Grande spot at 60 9 Street NE opposite Murdoch Park, where so many festivals are held in the summer. There’s an elevated tap room feel to this light and bright gastropub with its walls of windows, it’s a spot for the Bridgeland community to gather to watch the game and a relaxed atmosphere for business meetings, it’s family-friendly too! Flavour is the name of the game with Chef Trent Bochek’s (formerly at The Artist Lounge) menu – comfortable, approachable, and absolutely delicious (don’t miss the fried chorizo-stuffed olives and the crazy good Brewmaster Smash Burger!) with a good selection of cocktails and mocktails, and only Alberta breweries on tap. Seven days 11-11 pm, unionsocialroom.ca
A short trip away, BC wine country offers unforgettable winery adventures and delicious local wines worth the visit. Sip in the serene beauty around you.
Winner Winner Chicken Dinner!
BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM
Ah, the quintessential rotisserie chicken. Humble, versatile, and a life saver when you’re strapped for time or inspiration. Everyone has their favourite store they pick it up from, and very likely as you’re standing in line to pay, you’re thinking about how you can stretch that bird into two meals, or maybe even three.
management team made a trip to Europe in search of inspiration. One taste of European rotisserie chickens and they knew they had to bring them back to Sunterra customers - and now you can grab them at any Sunterra in Edmonton, Red Deer, or Calgary.
Chef Micah Agard, Kitchen Lead at Sunterra in West Market Square, is influenced by Asian cuisine. “I really enjoy
While the rotisserie chicken is easy to pair with a starch and a veggie for a quick, balanced meal, there’s a whole world of chicken dishes out there that you can make in no time, thanks to the pre-cooked poultry. Move over chicken and chips: the recipes shared here by Alberta farmers, producers, and chefs, will leave you clucking satisfied.
the different combinations of flavours, especially mixing sweet with umami.” It’s no surprise then that miso roasted chicken is one of his favourite dishes to
While we’re looking at the graband-go roasted chicken, there’s still something to be said about roasting one on a Sunday in your own kitchen. “When roasting any cut of chicken, but especially a whole one, use a meat thermometer,” he advises. “But also try cooking a spatchcocked chicken, too. They cook more evenly and a bit faster.”
Back to Chef Micha’s fave flavour combos with this recipe for Kung Pao Chicken Flatbread.
“This has a complex flavour with the sweetness of the sauce, and the richness of the roasted chicken, the kick from the hot sauce, and the freshness of the vegetables.” Save time and do your prep work first: slicing, dicing and shredding. “It’s a simple tip, but I guarantee this will improve the entire cooking experience, and elevate the enjoyment you get from the meal you create.”
Kung Pao Chicken Flatbread
Serves 1
1 flatbread, naan or thin-crust pizza shell ½ cup (125 mL) Kung Pao sauce or hoisin sauce
20 g green peppers, thinly sliced (about 8 slices)
20 g red pepper, thinly sliced (about 8 slices)
20 g red onion, thinly sliced (about 8 slices)
¾ cup rotisserie chicken, shredded ½ cup provolone or mozzarella cheese, shredded
¼ cup peanuts or cashews, toasted 1 tbs cilantro, chopped 1 tbs sriracha hot sauce (optional)
1. Preheat oven to 350º F.
2. Spread the Kung Pao sauce evenly onto the pizza shell, leaving about 2.5 cms of space around the edge.
3. Arrange the peppers and onion slices evenly on top.
4. Distribute the rotisserie chicken over the vegetables. Sprinkle the shredded cheese on top, then the toasted nuts.
5. Place flatbread on a perforated pizza pan and bake for 10 to 15 minutes until golden and crisp around the edges.
6. Garnish with cilantro and drizzle with sriracha, if desired.
7. Cut into quarters and serve.
Chef Michael Noble of Calgary’s NOtaBLE and The Nash says that working in professional kitchens throughout his 45-year career made him a true believer in the magic of making food that adheres to tradition. “I also had two excellent chef mentors who have greatly influenced me,” he adds.
No stranger to a rotisserie chicken –he obviously loves those found at both NOtaBLE and The Nash – he especially loves anything made with the thighs, especially if it has an Asian flair. And if there are any leftovers, Chef Noble says the best way to use it up is in a hot pasta dish, sauce, or soup.
While we’re slowly coming out of soup season, rainy days still call for a warm bowl of goodness, like his recipe for NOtaBLE’s Chicken Soup. “I love a great soup, and I think it’s become a lost art in the culinary profession,” he says. “The process of extracting layers of flavour out of vegetables and aromatics is magic.”
Words of wisdom from Chef? Season the vegetables while they sauté to help bloom their flavours. Next, keep the soup at a simmer instead of a rolling boil. “This helps clarify the stock and keeps the fat from emulsifying.” He also reminds us to have fun at the end with the garnish - something seasonal, from shelling peas, to mushrooms, to cauliflower florets.
“And,” he continues, “don’t add the reserved meat until the end of the preparation of the dish to make sure it stays moist and juicy.”
NOtaBLE’s Chicken Soup
Serves 8-12
4 Tbs (60 mL) olive oil
55 g butter, cut in cubes
1 onion, diced 5-6 mm
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 leek, sliced and washed well
2 carrots, diced
½ red pepper
Sprinkle chili flakes
4 sprigs thyme
To taste salt and black pepper
3 L chicken stock
1 bay leaf
Diced leftover roast chicken
1. Preheat a large soup pot to moderate heat.
2. Place the oil and the butter in the pot, let it melt and become foamy.
3. Add the onions along with the garlic.
Sauté until the onions are translucent then add the rest of the vegetables, chili flakes, thyme, salt and black pepper.
4. Continue sautéing until the vegetables are soft then add the hot chicken stock and bay leaves.
5. Bring to a simmer then cook for another 20 minutes. Add diced chicken. Correct seasoning.
6. Remove from the heat and either serve immediately or chill completely and keep in the refrigerator until you wish to serve it.
Note: Garnish with small cooked pasta, chopped chives or flatleaf parsley, fresh shelling peas or any other accompaniment.
Serve with a hearty grilled cheese sandwich for a great meal!
Hailing from Mexico, Chef Kevin Guillen is used to large parties and cooking for lots of people. “Throughout the year there are lots of Catholic celebrations,” he explains. “The day starts at 4 am with all of the women in the family coming to make sure all the food is ready for brunch, lunch, and dinner, so it means we’re cooking all day.”
Here in Calgary, Chef Kevin cooks at Milpa, where the menu is laden with authentic Mexican dishes cooked with modern flair. And, while some of these dishes can take time to marinate and cook, others come together quickly, and even more so when the chicken is already cooked.
“Tacos Dorados was a really important dish in my childhood,” he says. “This was one of the most flavourful dishes my mom would make. The economy wasn’t the greatest, so we always made sure to use up leftovers.”
“Make sure they’re really crispy,” he advises, “and topped with crema, fresh cheese, tomato, lettuce, and salsa.”
While this recipe is just one way to use up roast chicken, he says being creative is important. “Don’t be afraid to try something different, and to use up things that you already have on hand.”
Tacos Dorados
Serves 4
12 tortillas
Left over chicken, shredded
1 cup (250 mL) oil
½ iceberg lettuce
½ cup (125 mL) sour cream
100 g queso fresco
2 tomatoes
2 avocados
1. Warm the tortillas for 20 seconds in the microwave, then fill them with chicken and roll the tortillas to make a really tight taco.
2. Heat a pan with oil at medium heat and fry your tacos until they get crispy, then place them on a plate and top with chopped lettuce, sour cream, cheese, some tomato slices and avocado slices.
3. You can add salsa on top of your tacos or just keep it on the side.
Salsa Verde
250 g tomatillo
1 small Thai pepper
20 g cilantro
2 garlic cloves
To taste salt, approx. 1 tsp
Wash tomatillos and peppers, and cilantro, then add all the ingredients except the cilantro into a blender and blend for 2 minutes, transfer to a bowl and add chopped cilantro.
Pasta Soup
Canola oil
200 g pasta
3 tomatoes
2 garlic cloves
50 g onion
4 cups (1 L) chicken broth
To taste salt, approx. 2 tsp
1. Heat a pot with canola oil for a minute at medium heat, add the pasta and cook for 3 minutes moving frequently. The pasta will be a golden brown colour.
2. At the same time, blend tomatoes, garlic and onion, strain the tomato mix and add it to the pot. Cook for 5 more minutes, and add salt. Add the chicken broth.
3. Once boiling check and adjust seasoning to taste and turn off the heat. Serve in a bowl and it’s ready to eat.
Ron and Sheila Hamilton of Edmonton’s Sunworks Organic Meat Shop confess that they’re not chefs. But as poultry farmers, they certainly cook a mean rotisserie chicken. “We like simple meals, something that can be made after a long day on the farm,” says Ron. “Producing and eating organic food is very important to us, so our home kitchen is almost entirely organic.”
“Our favourite dishes are simple farmers’ suppers,” adds Sheila. “Classic meat and potatoes – in this case, roasted chicken thighs with roasted potatoes, squash, or other vegetables. In the summer, it’s whatever vegetables are fresh from our personal garden.”
When the rotisserie chicken has been picked clean for sandwiches, salads, and wraps, the Hamiltons say it doesn’t stop there. “The bones are a valuable part of the roasted chicken that are often overlooked. Use them to make a good stock – simply store them in the freezer until you have enough to make a batch.”
Their recipe for Chicken BLT
Salad was actually written by Ron and Sheila’s daughter Erin, and her friend Dana. “This is a great salad, which is light but satisfying,” says Sheila. The quantities listed are more like guidelines, she adds, and can be adjusted to your taste.
Chicken BLT Salad
Serves 2
4 cups mixed greens (Sunworks use lettuce and spinach from their garden if they have some)
4 slices of organic bacon, chopped and cooked until crisp
¼ long English cucumber, sliced
1 tomato, diced
½ avocado, diced (optional)
1 green onion, sliced
Chopped or shredded meat from a rotisserie chicken
Dressing
1 Tbs (15 mL) balsamic vinegar
3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil
To taste salt and pepper
Toss all salad ingredients together. Whisk dressing ingredients together, drizzle over top of the salad and serve.
Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.
Don’t Judge a fruit, or a vegetable, by its peel
BY ADRIANNE LOVRIC
Asymmetrical apples. Crooked carrots. Poorly proportioned potatoes. These misfits would be rejected for failing to meet the standards of Canada’s grading system for fresh produce. If it’s ugly, it couldn’t possibly taste good, right?
“Isn't that the gist of the consumer mentality?,” says Elna Edgar, Edgar Farms’ self-proclaimed queen of asparagus, presiding over Alberta’s largest asparagus patch. “People shop with their eyes. To pick out a tomato they’ll turn it all over to make sure it's perfect.” But since the mid90s, Edgar has been challenging picky patrons of perfect produce with her bags of perfectly ugly asparagus sold seasonally at Farmers’ Markets throughout central Alberta and Edmonton. “Everybody wants that nice, perfectly straight spear. But if it's bent over, it tastes the same, it's exactly the same freshness because it was picked at exactly the same time.”
Over the years people who have taken the time to learn about Edgar’s bags of awkward asparagus will specifically seek
them out on the shelves, choosing them over the bags of perfect asparagus. To combat wasting the fruits, or in this casethe vegetables of their labour, the Edgars also pickle asparagus and make soup, both of which are sold seasonally at their farm’s Country Store and select Farmers’ markets, and year-round in many central Alberta specialty shops.
Over half of Canada’s annual food supply is reportedly wasted or lost, with vegetables and fruits at the top of the garbage or compost heap. Online grocery delivery business SPUD.CA with its integrated operations through Blush Lane markets within Calgary and Edmonton is making a conscious effort to not add to the problem. “We are an important link in getting some of that product into the distribution chain that otherwise might be plowed under or composted,” says David Jannard, Head of Alberta Retail for Blush Lane. “Nobody hates wasting food more than the folks who grow it and us in the middle, who retail it. If we, as a retailer, are able to sell imperfect produce
that otherwise would get wasted at its source or in our warehouses or in our retail stores, that helps to reduce food waste.”
According to Jannard, imperfect produce is defined as items that are not of the highest grade per Canadian grading standards. These standards establish a system, or common language, for describing the condition of fresh fruits and vegetables. This helps to ensure minimum standards of quality, and encourages safety and nutrition throughout the entire value chain. Grades and grade names are regulated under the Safe Food for Canadians Act, the Safe Food for Canadians Regulations, and various provincial acts. They may include parameters such as texture, colour, size and shape. “But when it comes to imperfect produce, if we’re comparing a similarly ripened or similarly harvested product and we’re just gauging it on looks and appeal, the taste factor should be the same,” says Jannard. “Basically they have aesthetic imperfections. For example,
they might look smaller or larger than normal, they might have scarring or an irregular shape.”
During peak growing season, Blush Lane will work directly with growers to source specific imperfect but saleable produce, such as stone fruits and tomatoes, that can be sold at a reduced rate for canning or jam. They will also typically have between five and ten imperfect produce items available. The items would be graded differently by the grower because of either damage or appearance, as opposed to the inherent quality of the product. Blush Lane also inspects the product before it goes to customers at a discounted rate. “Our customers expect us to be good corporate citizens as it relates to reducing food waste, and not just food waste within our own four walls or warehouses, but also in actively supporting the agriculture industry to get this food to market,” says Jannard. “Looks aren’t everything. You know, a crooked carrot is just as great for soup.”
The misconception that imperfect produce is inferior is something Odd Bunch is working hard to combat. Recently launched in Alberta, the online retailer works with farms, greenhouses and distributors to take “odd” and surplus produce to create boxes that customers can order to be delivered directly to their door. They are using their online platform to educate consumers that imperfect doesn’t mean subpar. “This is not something that's on its last legs. Oftentimes, you may not even be able to tell the source of the imperfection,” says Divyansh Ojha, Founder and CEO of Odd Bunch.
By sourcing produce that would otherwise be destined for landfill, not because of freshness, but because of cosmetic or logistical reasons, or any
other inefficiencies in our food system, Odd Bunch is disrupting traditional buying patterns. “Rather than consumers choosing and picking what they want to eat, we actually flip it over to the supply side to say, you tell us what you have that you want us to sell, and then we'll assemble them into boxes which consumers can choose to receive, on a weekly or bi-weekly basis, or whatever they desire,” says Ojha.
Due to their smaller scale and digital storefront, Odd Bunch is able to move quickly and present a different way of purchasing produce that is both lighter on the planet and the wallet, with savings of up to 50 percent less when compared with traditional big grocers. “The biggest impact we hope to make is to try and put high quality, nutritious produce and food in front of Canadians who have been struggling to afford it. And then secondary
is to also reduce the amount of good food that goes to waste just because we have cosmetic standards for what
Adrianne Lovric is a communications professional who has spent the last 20 years creating content for print media, non-profits, creative agencies, start-ups and publicly traded companies. Adrianne lives in Calgary with her husband, Miroslav, and their two daughters.
to that
Edgar Farms, at a farmers' market
Buckwheat Banana Bread Glazed Over:
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN
When you’ve been baking for decades, in a variety of capacities like I have, chances are you’ve whipped up countless loaves of banana bread. Every cafe or bakery kitchen had their own recipe, and the variations were endless. Some used buttermilk and browned butter, while others used canola oil and sour cream. Chocolate and toasted nuts were optional add-ins, as were peanut butter, or Nutella.
The one constant about banana bread is its continuous popularity. Everyone loves banana bread, including yours truly. The reason I buy bananas is so that they can get all ripe and speckled, which means I then toss them in the freezer for future banana bread baking. Once thawed, the banana flesh slumps out of its skin, and while it sure doesn't look very pretty, it is a dandy ingredient to bake with.
So, while you may think that you don’t need another banana bread recipe, I think you’ll enjoy this one. I used a little bit of buckwheat flour in addition to the all-purpose, as I quite like its earthy, slightly bitter taste, and it pairs especially well with toasty nuts and sweet banana. Buckwheat also loves chocolate, and some chunks of dark chocolate would not be out of place here.
If you’ve never baked with buckwheat before, you’re in for a treat. Contrary to its name, buckwheat is not a true grain or wheat. It’s actually a seed closely related to rhubarb and sorrel. However, because its seeds are rich in complex carbohydrates, it’s sometimes referred to as a pseudo-cereal. While it’s not a true grain, it can be used like one in cooking and is a delicious alternative to rice, pasta, couscous or bulgar wheat. Buckwheat is naturally gluten-free, which makes it a great alternative to those avoiding gluten.
Buckwheat comes in several different forms. The buckwheat seeds are often called “groats”. The groats can be raw, sprouted or toasted, and when they’re toasted they’re known as “kasha”, which has an earthier, nuttier flavour than raw buckwheat. You can find buckwheat in the form of pasta as well, including soba noodles. And then there is buckwheat flour, which is wonderful to bake with, and a grand way of including some rich nutrients to baked goods, including protein, fibre, and it ranks low on the glycemic index.
Because there is no gluten in buckwheat flour, the texture of this banana bread is slightly crumbly, but in a good way. And now we need to talk about that maple tahini glaze, which is everything. It really
dresses up this banana bread and I could honestly eat it by the spoonful, but willpower eventually kicks in. It’s sweet, yet not overly so, and the tahini maple combo marries so well with the banana, walnut, and buckwheat action in the bread.
Buckwheat flour can be a little on the pricey side, but once you have a bag you’ll find a multitude of uses for it. Or if you just want to purchase small amounts for this recipe, think about purchasing at bulk food stores.
Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon. Her two cookbooks ‘All the Sweet Things’ and ‘Vegetables: A Love Story’ have won awards and been on best-of lists.
Renée
Buckwheat Banana Bread with Maple Tahini Glaze
Makes one loaf
Banana Bread:
1¼ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup buckwheat flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
¾ tsp ground cardamom
2 large eggs
1 cup brown sugar
½ cup (125 mL) canola oil
3 ripe bananas, mashed (1¼ cup/300 mL)
1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract
1 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped, some reserved for topping (optional)
Glaze:
½ cup icing sugar
1 Tbs (15 mL) tahini
1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrup
2 Tbs (30 mL) cream
Pinch salt
1. Preheat the oven to 350º F. Lightly grease a 23x13 cm loaf pan and line with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl combine both flours, baking powder, salt, and cardamom. In another medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, brown sugar, oil, bananas, and vanilla. Pour this into the dry ingredients and add the toasted walnuts. Gently combine, being careful not to overmix the batter.
3. Scrape the batter into the prepared loaf pan and bake for 60-70 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean.
4. Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and run a butter knife around the sides of the bread to loosen. After 5 minutes, turn the loaf out and let it cool completely, right side up, on the cooling rack.
5. When the banana bread has cooled completely, mix up the glaze. In a medium bowl, combine the icing sugar, tahini, maple syrup, cream, and salt. Stir until smooth. If it’s too thick, add a bit more cream. If it’s too runny, add more icing sugar. The glaze should have a pourable consistency.
6. Drizzle the glaze over the banana bread and top with reserved toasted walnuts. Let stand for 30 minutes before slicing.
Purple Prose:
The Joys of Lavender!
BY LINDA GARSON
What comes to mind when you think of lavender? A romantic vision of strolling through the lavender fields of Provence, Van Gogh’s lavender field paintings or Jackson Pollock’s Lavender Mist? Or maybe the scent reminds you of your grandma and her perfume?
Originating in the Mediterranean and Middle East, lavender has been used for well over two thousand years for medicinal purposes, and for its cleansing and calming properties, and perfume. It was even found, still fragrant, in Tutankhamun’s tomb. The name itself comes from the Latin “lavare” - to wash, as it was so widely used for bathing, and even now, it’s still commonly used as a sleep aid.
But aside from its uses as an essential oil, what about its culinary uses?
A visit for the lavender harvest last summer at the beautiful Fragrant Isle Lavender Farm on Washington Island, Wisconsin, sharpened our focus and gave us a new respect for this herb, and started us thinking what we can do with it here in Canada.
It can - and does - grow in Alberta (ask Veronica and Glen at Alberta Lavender farm in Red Deer County!) with a lot of sunlight and well-drained soil, but not all lavenders are edible and safe to use in food and drink. We really want to look for English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), which has a lot less oil than the aromatic lavenders, and we can use the dried buds and flowers in everything from our desserts and baking to dressings and gravies, roasting meat and potatoes, and in our cocktails! Lavender belongs to the same botanical family as rosemary and can be used wherever you use it, but like rosemary – remember less is more!
It's relatively easy to find dried lavender flowers in specialty stores such as Silk Road Spice Merchant, Calgary’s The Botanist (thebotanistcalgary.com) and The Apothecary (the-apothecary. ca), Edmonton’s Duchess Bake Shop (duchessbakeshop.com) and even at Bulk Barn and some supermarkets.
In baking, lavender loves dairy so you can add it to your ice creams, buttercream frosting, and custards and creamy desserts, such as lavender crème brulée. Don’t steep it for too long though - half to threequarters of an hour will give you enough flavour to use in your dishes without overpowering the other ingredients.
Big Fish Open Range have had a very popular Lemon Lavender Shortbread Tart on their dessert menu for 21 years (there’d be an outcry if it was taken off!), and we’re grateful to them for generously sharing their recipe for this iconic tart.
Big Fish Open Range’s
Lemon Lavender Tart
Serves 8
Crust
1 cup flour
½ cup icing sugar
1/3 cup corn starch
1/3 lemon, zest only
¾ cup salted butter, room temperature
1 tsp dried lavender
1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract
Butter and line a 25 cm springform pan. Mix all ingredients in a mixer with a paddle attachment, and press evenly into pan. Bake at 350º F for 10 minutes then rotate and bake for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool completely.
Filling
6 eggs
1¼ cups sugar
1/3 cup flour
¾ tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp lavender
¾ cup lemon juice
Mix well in a mixer with whisk attachment or by hand, and put into the baked tart crust. Bake at 275º F for 30 minutes, then rotate and bake a further 30 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool completely. Garnish with your choice of toppings.
Note: when it jiggles slightly, it is done!
And here’s a recipe for a delicious, allpurpose Lavender Buttercream Icing that you can use on your cupcakes, and other baked goods!
Lavender Buttercream Icing
Makes 1½ cups (375 mL)
¼ cup (60 mL) milk
½ Tbs dried lavender
6 Tbs (90 mL) unsalted butter
2 cups (500 mL) icing sugar
½ tsp vanilla extract
Pinch salt
1 tsp lemon zest, optional
1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice, optional
Heat the milk just to steaming and add the lavender. Let it steep until the milk drops to room temperature, and then strain. In a large mixing bowl, beat butter until softened and add icing sugar, your lavender milk, vanilla and salt. Beat until smooth, and for an added zing, add lemon zest and juice. Keep covered until ready to use.
Note: the icing won’t be a purple colour, so add a few drops of food colouring if you want it to look like lavender.
Lavender works really well in drinks too and can be found in cafés across the province in lavender lattes and tea lattes as well as in lemonade and cocktails.
Lemon Lavender Tart photo courtesy Big Fish Open Range
Thanks very much to Calgary’s Ollia Macarons & Tea, who make a wonderful lavender lemonade, and have kindly shared their recipe with us here.
Lavender Lemonade
To start, Ollia make a concentrated organic lavender syrup (remember a little goes a long way!). Because it's so concentrated you can really get the lavender flavour without adding too much sweetness. They use an organic lavender - the same as in their Lavender Honey macarons and in their tea blends.
Syrup
Makes 2 cups (500 mL)
1 cup culinary lavender
2 cups sugar
1½ cups (375 mL) water
Combine everything in a pan and bring to a gentle boil. Reduce to simmer for 5 minutes stirring frequently. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely. Store in the fridge overnight (or 12 hours) to allow the flavour to infuse even more. Once ready, strain out the lavender and store in a jar or bottle. Can be kept in the fridge for up to one month.
Lemonade
Makes just over 4 cups (1 L)
1 cup lemon juice
3 cups water
½-1 cup lavender syrup
Start with less syrup and add more to your taste. If you don't feel like making lemonade from scratch, just add 1 Tbs (15 mL) of the concentrated lavender syrup to 1 cup (250 mL) of pre-made lemonade and serve over ice.
And Ollia have suggestions for other uses for the syrup:
- brush it on to cakes before icing
For a ready-made lavender cocktail, check out Burwood Distillery’s Lavender Bees Knees. Their take on this classic prohibition era cocktail is a blend of gin with lemon and lavender. Just pour over ice for a sweet-sour, refreshing lavender drink!
CSPC 889687
375 mL $26-28
- whip into buttercream or whipped cream - as a sweetener for tea - in mocktails and Italian soda (over ice, add 1 oz lemon juice, ½ oz syrup, and top with sparkling water...rim the cup with their lavender sugar if you're feeling fancy!)
You can also find lavender cocktails in bars and restaurants around the province and while the Rhubarb Lavender Cocktail isn’t on the menu currently at NOtaBLE (maybe if we ask nicely they’ll bring it back!), we owe our thanks to mixologist Timo Salimaki for letting us have their recipe to make at home!
Notable’s Lavender Rhubarb Cocktail
1½ oz vodka of your choice
1 oz fresh lemon juice
1 oz lavender rhubarb syrup (see below)
Lemon wheel for garnish
Sprig of mint for garnish
Add ice to a tall glass, then add all the ingredients to build your drink in the glass over the ice.
Lavender Rhubarb syrup
1½ oz sugar
1 cup (250 mL) water
2 cups (500 mL) frozen or fresh rhubarb pieces, cut into smaller chunks
1 tsp of dried lavender
Bring sugar and water to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer. Add the rhubarb and simmer for 10 minutes. Take off heat and add lavender. Let steep for 30 minutes, and strain into a glass bottle or jar.
BEST CANADIAN BEEF DISHES CONTEST
Help us find the Best Beef Dish Champions
DINERS:
RESTAURANT OWNERS & CHEFS:
of Spring The Spirit
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY NATALIE FINDLAY
The long green, white, or purple stalks of the asparagus plant announce that spring is here and invite us to give thanks to the earth for sprouting such a fascinating vegetable.
It packs in the vitamins and contains protein and fibre as well as antioxidants to help fight off chronic inflammation and disease.
Asparagus takes three years before it is mature enough to eat. Once it reaches maturity, it grows like a weed. In the right conditions, asparagus has been measured to grow up to 25 cm within a 24-hour period!
If you’re not growing your own, how do you select the best asparagus spears for eating?
Look for firm, bright coloured spears with tight tips.
To keep them fresh for up to 1 week, trim the ends and place them upright in a drinking glass with 2 to 5 cm of water in the bottom. Or wrap the ends of the stalks in damp paper towel and place in an unsealed plastic bag and place in the fridge.
To prepare these beauties for their big show, gently rinse them, then trim or break away the tough ends. If the stalks seem like they might be woody, use a vegetable peeler and remove the outer skin.
While asparagus stalks are delicious steamed, sautéed, roasted, grilled and baked, they can also be enjoyed raw. Slice asparagus into paper-thin pieces using a vegetable peeler and add to any preparation (see the asparagus and egg recipe below).
Okay, I hear you - but why does urine smell when you eat asparagus? The theory is, asparagus contains a harmless compound called asparagusic acid which vaporizes easily contributing
to the infamous smell. This sulfur containing compound produces the pungent aroma in some people but not all (only about 40 percent of people can smell asparagus in their pee). But there is still no exact proof as to what is actually happening. What we do know for sure, asparagus is delicious, versatile and easy to cook.
Parmesan and Truffle Eggs with Asparagus Salad
Serves 4
1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil
1 Tbs butter
10 spears asparagus, trimmed, separated 8 eggs
2 Tbs (30 mL) cream
¼ tsp sea salt
1/3 cup Parmesan cheese
Drizzle truffle oil
Sprinkle Maldon sea salt
1. In a medium sauté pan, over low heat, add the oil and butter. Let butter melt and swirl to combine. Take 2 asparagus spears and chop into 1 cm sections. Add to the pan and gently cook for 3 minutes and remove the spears from the pan and reserve.
2. In a medium bowl, add eggs and whisk to break them up. Add the cream and salt and whisk until the mixture is smooth and the eggs are completely broken down.
3. Add the mixture to the pan. Slowly move the eggs around the pan, swirling them with your spatula as they begin to firm up. Continue gently swirling the eggs until the eggs are mostly cooked and add the Parmesan cheese. Then remove from the heat and let cook for another minute in the pan.
4. Take the remaining 8 asparagus spears and using a vegetable peeler, thinly slice the asparagus into long, thin slices and place in a medium bowl. Drizzle with truffle oil and a sprinkle of Maldon sea salt.
5. Serve the asparagus scrambled eggs with a serving of asparagus truffle salad on top. Delicious with a multigrain or sourdough bread, grilled and drizzled with more truffle oil.
Asparagus Soup
Serves 6
2 Tbs (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 stalks celery
1 leek, white part only, thinly chopped
3 sprigs thyme, fresh, leaves only
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ tsp sea salt, more to taste
½ tsp black pepper
3 small Yukon gold potatoes, 1½ cups diced
3 cups water
3 cups asparagus, trimmed and roughly chopped
1 cup frozen peas
1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard
2 Tbs (30 mL) lemon juice, plus zest Garnish drizzle of olive oil, lemon zest, micro greens (as desired)
1. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the celery, leeks and thyme and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until soft.
2. Add the garlic, salt, and pepper, and cook another minute.
3. Add the potatoes and water and simmer for 12 minutes or until the potatoes are fork-tender.
4. Add the chopped asparagus to the pot with potatoes and continue simmering for 5 more minutes.
5. Remove the pot from the heat. Stir in the peas and then transfer the soup to a blender. Add the mustard, lemon juice, and lemon zest and blend until creamy. Garnish as desired and serve.
Roasted Asparagus and Romanesco Sauce
Serves 4
20 spears asparagus, trimmed
20 cherry tomatoes, halved
¼ cup roasted red bell peppers, skin and seeds removed
¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil
¼ cup almonds
1 sun-dried tomato
2 cloves garlic
¼ tsp smoked paprika
½ tsp sea salt
½ lemon and zest
10 black olives
50 g goat cheese, crumbled
1. Preheat oven to 375º F.
2. In a small baking pan or dish, add the asparagus spears and cherry tomatoes, drizzle with olive oil and a pinch of sea salt. Roast for 15 minutes.
3. In a blender, place the peppers, olive oil, almonds, sun-dried tomato, garlic, paprika, pinch of sea salt, and juice and zest of half a lemon. Blend until smooth.
4. Remove baking pan from the oven. Pour over the mixture. Top with olives and goat cheese and return to oven for 5 minutes. Serve with sourdough bread to sop up the Romanesco sauce.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
Convenient Cocktails
– are here to stay!
BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
True story – we are completely aware that the act of making most well-loved classic cocktails isn’t that hard to do, yet it’s rarely something that many derive any joy in making. A Negroni is simply gin, Campari and some sweet vermouth. An Old Fashioned is simple syrup, bitters and whisky and so on. These classics are really quite simple to make, yet out of reach of so many.
Time is, of course, of the essence, but just like starting out cooking at home, assembling the basic ingredients or tools can be a little daunting. “Am I buying the right vermouth?” or “I don’t know the first thing about bitters” and on and on. Getting started on that first step is a doozy.
Park Classic Negroni, Alberta
One of the best, locally made, ready to pour negronis, and a nice treat to pick up if cruising the streets of Banff. Made with Park’s Alpine Dry Gin (with locally sourced spruce tips), and all the right amount of barrel aging, Campari, and most importantly, a taste of this classic cocktail with a nod to a more modern approach.
$40 (375mL) at the distillery
Olmeca Altos Margarita (Classic Lime), Mexico
This one might seem like a “no-brainer” but all those traditional, nothing but sugar, and bring your own tequila mixes were pretty awful (remember them gathering dust on those liquor store shelves? Olmeca is made with premium tequila, the right amount of lime, and some actual agave syrup to sweeten, this is precisely what the doctor ordered when the heat comes and you have a small quantity of crushed ice to use up. So good!
CSPC 884817 $25-28
Ready-to-drink cocktails have been around for a while, though most would be more in the “cooler” camp, fizzy or sweet, or perhaps both, and generally not too serious. Lynchburg Lemonades or the like were often served ice cold and meant more for enjoying at the ball diamond or campsite straight out of the can or wee bottle that came in a four-pack.
We’ve generally been over the moon at this relatively new crop of premium, quality (and even craft) focused, ready-to-pour, convenient cocktails gracing our shelves these days. There’s no arguing the care and quality, and as consumption trends continue to change, being able to more closely enjoy what you pour rather than mixing from a recipe, these drinks are here to stay.
Romero Distilling Smoked Old-Fashioned, Alberta
Full marks to Romero Distilling. To come up with this absolutely delicious, smooth and lush, Smoked Rum Old Fashioned, absolutely ready to pour into your glass (add your big ice cube or a couple of smaller ice cubes first) is genius, and we’ll happily offer it to our guests (and pretend we made it) any time! From their amber sugarcane spirit along with some demerara simple syrup, a little aromatic bitters, and the crown jewel – smoke from their rum oak barrel staves!
CSPC 117369 (473 mL) $21-33
The Glenlivet Old Fashioned, Scotland
A twist with a twist! Another genius idea, this time from Scotland (from where many innovators hail – think television, telephones, and tires!), The Glenlivet have poured their 12 year Single Malt Scotch into a bottle – and then in the cap, added bitters and simple syrup, with a little orange, so when you twist off the cap it releases into the whisky and makes a rather wonderful Old Fashioned! We think it’s like one of those magic tricks, where your whisky becomes an Old Fashioned with the sleight of your hand – but then what do we know, we drink whisky for a living!
CSPC 111003 (375 mL) $28-37
GETTING A DEAL THESE DAYS anywhere is tough, whether you’re in the market for a good steak or a wine-filled night with friends. But there are bargains to be had, depending on where you look. “The cost of pretty much everything is going up, including but not limited to food,” says Joe Dort, Concorde Group’s Director of Brand and Special Projects in Calgary. “Everyone is searching for value these days.”
Here are nine tips on finding deals when you eat out this spring:
SERVING UP DEALS:
Alberta restaurants offer myriad ways to eat out for less
BY SHELLEY BOETTCHER
1
Get happy (hour)
Pretty much every savvy bargain hunter knows the power of happy hour, roughly 2 pm-ish to 5 pm-ish — after lunch but before dinner. “You can hang out for a long time, or you can pop in for a quick and fun visit, without feeling that burden on your wallet,” Dort says. “And you can learn a lot about a restaurant, based on how seriously they take a happy hour.”
The concept of happy hour, historians say, dates back at least to the early 20th century, when women organized what they called “happy hour socials” for the
US Navy. The idea really took off during Prohibition, when people could enjoy cocktails at a speakeasy before heading to a restaurant, where alcohol couldn’t legally be served. These days, happy hours are a great way to visit a new hot spot without paying for an entire dinner. Try a few snacks, check out the vibe, and decide if you want to come back for more.
Haven’t been to Happy & Olive in Edmonton yet? Stop in for happy hour and get some caramel corn, maybe chickpea fries with almond romesco, or the Vada Pav sliders with a crispy Bombay potato patty and tamarind chutney. Famoso, the Italian
pizza franchise, started in Edmonton and now has locations across Western Canada; it was bought by a BC business in 2018 but still has great happy hour deals. Stop in from 2 to 5 pm for a margherita pizza and a glass of the house red for 15 bucks. Barbarella Bar in Calgary offers a similar pizza-wine deal, too.
And if you didn’t get around to making a reservation, stop in anyway and ask if there’s space for walk-ins. Major Tom, for instance, saves a certain number of tables every day for last-minute “golden hour” guests, perfect if you’re in from out of town or simply didn’t plan in advance.
2
Consider a reverse happy hour
If you’re a night owl in need of nosh, try a late-night visit to your favourite eatery, say those in the know. Letty starts its happy hour at 9 pm till close, with half-price pizza and five-buck beer, wine and highballs. And from 10 pm to close, Pigeonhole on 17th Avenue in Calgary offers special deals, too.
“You can get half off chilled seafood, five-dollar hot dogs and half off bottles of wine,” says Dort. “Lulu Bar also offers a reverse happy hour from 9 pm to close, Sunday to Thursday. It mirrors the daytime happy hour, with half off all beverages as well as a snack menu with happy hour pricing.”
3
Follow your favourite restaurants and dealfinders on social media
They’ll often announce last-minute deals or special deals there. For instance, Calgary’s Modern Steak occasionally posts reminders on Instagram of their sweet Wednesday date-night deal: two steaks, two sides and a feature bottle of wine for $98. And Instagrammer @yegfooddeals posts sporadically about specials to be found in Edmonton.
4
Yes,
days of the week matter
Think of Margarita Monday. Taco Tuesday. Wine Wednesday. Some restaurants offer special deals on Mondays, typically a day when there are less customers. Monday at the National bars in Calgary, for instance, celebrates happy hour all day.
Other places offer special deals every day of the week. Mikey’s Juke Joint in Calgary, for instance, is legendary for live music — and also for its three-buck tacos on Taco Tuesdays.
And at Baijiu in Edmonton, get ten per cent off all food on Sundays and fried chicken for a fiver on Mondays.
5
6
Bundle your stops
Dort says if you plan well (and make reservations), you can hit four happy hours in a row without going outside. Start at Barbarella, then go upstairs to the new Pigeonhole. Then continue up, up, up to Major Tom before finishing the afternoon at Goro + Gun.
“All bowls of ramen at Goro + Gun are $10 during happy hour, with seven-dollar cocktails, six-dollar pints, five days a week,” he says.
7
Weeks matter too
Edmonton’s annual Downtown Dining Week (edmontondowntown.com) takes place in March, with a lengthy list of deals for meals at some of the city’s finest eateries. And in Calgary, a similar event is entitled YYC Exp (yycexp.com). Check out the sites for information on 2026 dates.
Search for deals — or let others search for you
Victoria BC’s Jordan Caron started his website in 2018 as a way for people to find happy hour deals across North America. As of press time, he lists 48 bars and restaurants in Calgary offering happy hour deals, plus 31 in Edmonton. Go to ultimatehappyhours.com to find out more.
8
Coupons count
Remember Groupon? The online coupon site started in 2008 and is still around; find it at groupon.com. Edmonton food lovers have scored deals lately from
The Bothy, Acqua Bistro Bar, Jack’s Drive-in and many others. As of press time, Calgary’s Groupon offerings were slim but there were still deals to be had for Madison’s 12|12, Romano’s Rustic Italian (Roma Catering’s restaurant) and Minhas Micro Brewery.
9
Pick your day to drink
Many places offer half-price bottles of wine on certain days or for a few hours each day. Depending on what you order, you’re likely saving at least 20 bucks. At Model Milk in Calgary, you’ll pay half price for all bottles of wine, all day Sundays. “There are a lot of people who’ll order a bottle to drink at the restaurant — and a second one to take home at the end of the night,” Dort says. Best, he notes, it’s a location geared toward wine geeks. “There are some unique and difficult to acquire bottles there.”
Shelley is an award-winning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. She currently splits her time between Calgary and Italy. Find her on Instagram @shelleyboettcher.
Alberta entrepreneurs bring innovation and grit (no, not dirt) to gardening in small spaces
BY LUCY HAINES
Tessa and Ryan Agrey are a determined pair. The brother and sister team behind Hope Innovations (which makes the Eden Tower indoor vertical garden system) are a two-person whirlwind of production and marketing of an innovative vegetable growing system that is finding success with new and established gardeners alike. And they’re doing it in tough economic times, to boot. But, the thirty-somethings who grew up and still live near Edson, Alberta, have even surprised themselves how a side hustle became a growing passion and now, a growing business and a life’s purpose for them both.
“It’s what I’m meant to do,”
acknowledges Tessa of her and Ryan’s foray into hydroponics. “Dad grew up on a farm, so we’ve always had a garden. We took for granted the idea of having fresh produce, of eating healthy. But now, it’s more than that. It’s a re-educating of the market on what technology can do.”
Starting in their parent’s garage in 2018, (Dad was crucial to the initial product design, the pair say, though he’s now a silent partner in the business), the siblings found a growing consumer interest in space saving, dirt-free vertical gardening. Before long, the Agrey’s were crowdfunding; launching a kickstarter campaign that would set fire to the ember of an idea: a hydroponic growing system,
that could be a vertical tower of varying levels, or horizontal shelving with readymade space for pods and seeds, light and water – basically a plug and play system to grow vegetables in any indoor space, from the basement to a closet to a kitchen corner.
“Selling through the pandemic wasn’t a problem. People were at home and online, and with global supply chain problems and empty store shelves, there was even more of an interest in being self-sufficient. Folk realized how fragile the food system was,” says Ryan, adding the challenge became convincing consumers the price point for such a system (about $1,000 for a four-tier tower with lights, water pump–the works)
could pay for itself in a year or two, based on the typical grocery store price of lettuce (around $5 a head) and other greens.
“There are misconceptions about hydroponics. People associate it with growing cannabis and having high electricity bills. (Ryan says using efficient lighting means the electricity bill is about $15 a month for a four-level system) But we believe we’ve tapped into what people want in an indoor garden. So the website, blog, newsletter, podcast – talking to consumers at trade shows, expos and live training webinars – it’s all part of the process; answering questions and showing off the technology, and what’s possible.”
The pair is also playing the long game, Ryan acknowledges, remaining a very lean team (they’re the only two employees), and following a philosophy that sees the company put money in only the most strategic areas. So, social media is huge for the business – with 30,000 Instagram/ Facebook followers, and climbing. And the pair remains efficient with a 3,000 square-foot warehouse in a less expensive neighbourhood in town, another element of the lean start-up philosophy.
“We want to be responsive, so we can get customer feedback, make changes easily and quickly. It takes a while to build trust, but we have good customers, hard core fans who come back to buy nutrients and seeds, and other add-ons like a trellis, or more tiers for the system,” he says. “But we’ve made it universal too, with no subscription model, so you can go to Canadian Tire for seeds and pods and grow as often or as little as you want.”
By the time Hope Innovations did its kickstarter campaign in 2022, it hit a pre-buy goal of $50,000 in sales in just 14 minutes. A third campaign for the Eden Tower vertical system did $200,000 in crowdfunding in two hours, making it the fourth-largest selling kickstarter campaign (for a team of two) in Alberta history. Besides selling direct to consumer, the company is dabbling in having the Eden Tower available at retail level too, currently through Salisbury Greenhouses in the Edmonton region.
“After the pandemic and with inflation, a lot of businesses have gone belly-up. There are a few players out there now; a handful of companies with systems that can work for restaurants or the home gardener. It’s getting saturated, but we’re surviving
right now. We may be able to bring on employees eventually, but the market has to catch up to us.”
Tessa says once people see how the system works, they understand not only the idea of having fresh, pesticide-free produce any time of year, they begin to see secondary benefits – things like feeling the pride of growing something from seed, yourself, or watching it grow over a few weeks – anything from flowers to herbs to salad greens.
“Especially during the dreary winter months, it can help with winter blues, mental health,” she says. “For seniors or anyone in small spaces, it’s easy. And you can pretty much neglect the whole thing and still get good results. Fill up the reservoir and go away for a couple weeks, no problem. It’s as easy as it could be.”
“We have a short growing season in
Canada – the Eden Tower eliminates that issue. You don’t need a yard or sunny exposure on the balcony,” adds Ryan, though the siblings both acknowledge they’re often preaching to the choir – hence a strategy for reaching new audiences either online or in person.
Robbie Burns, a home gardener living in Sundrie, jumped onboard early with the Eden Tower and now, three years on, is regularly growing salad greens and herbs in his four-tier unit.
“Tessa and Ryan are dynamite,” he says. “They’re so excited about what they do and they’re big-hearted too. I’m not a green thumb at all, and I grow kale, lettuce, basil – I’ve even done bok choy and flowers like zinnias – anything but root crops. No frost, no hail, no bugs to worry about. I could be a spokesperson for this.”
“They are trying to do something cool,
these young entrepreneurs. I plant the seed, water it and I’m eating fresh greens in a month.”
Ryan admits more challenges still lay ahead.
“It’s the worst inflation in 40 years, and the geopolitics, the threat of tariffs –sometimes it feels like we’re a mouse in a stampede of elephants,” he says. “The biggest challenge is that things become more and more expensive.”
“We didn’t know at first what this could become. But we knew having the trust of customers, of being ethical in our business – that keeps shaping our purpose,” Ryan adds. “And the technology is exciting – it can be two tiers or tiers stacked to the roof.
Tessa adds, “We just want to make sure everything works well – that we have a strong foundation to build from; then we can customize it to suit any lifestyle. The sky’s the limit.”
Lucy Haines is a long-time freelance writer, specializing in travel, food, arts and entertainment. When she isn't writing, Lucy is a busy mom to four fantastic kids, and enjoys singing and performing in the local community theatre scene.
One-off Spanish Winemaker Dinner at Flores & Pine, April 8
Anciano are with us for one night only at Flores & Pine for a fabulous multi-course dinner, paired with their range from the north of Spain: big reds from Rioja and Cava from Peñedes.
The Best of NOtaBLE, April 11
NOtaBLE The Restaurant is celebrating 15 years this year, and we’re celebrating with a pairing menu of their much-loved classic dishes over the last 15 years.
Vine & Dine at Thai Sa-On
April 15, 24, and 30
In April we’re coming back to Thai Sa-On for three evenings with a new 6-course pairing menu honouring traditional Royal Thai cuisine as well as some new dishes!
Calabrese Vine & Dine at SS106
April 27 and May 26
Celebrating Southern Italy and the social aspect of Italian life, we’re at SS106 to enjoy six Calabrese-style paired dishes.
French Flair Vine & Dine at Avitus
May 5 and May 20
We’re enjoying Avitus’ casual wine bar food in May, each course paired to complement the flavours for an authentic French experience!
Vine & Dine at Sumaq
May 8, 13, and 28
Join us at Sumaq, for six pairing courses of traditional Peruvian dishes, and learn about the rich heritage of this remarkable cuisine!
One-off Winemaker Dinner at NOtaBLE, June 13
John Griffiths, owner/winemaker of the prestigious Faber Vineyards in Western Australia, is with us at NOtaBLE in June for one special night.
Wine and Culinary Tour to Alsace and Champagne
September 19-October 1, 2025
This autumn we’re repeating last year’s sold out wine and culinary tour to Alsace and Champagne, however we’re sold out now and planning our 2026 Rhône Valley Tour!
Vine & Dine Wine Course
We’re potentially bringing back our Wine Basics course that sold out 60 times before Covid! Let us know if you are interested in joining us.
These evenings can – and very often do –sell out quickly and new events are added regularly, so check vineanddine.ca for details and menus.
Email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve your places, and to be included in our bi-monthly updates.
We try to cater for all allergies.
Tessa and Ryan Agrey, the brother and sister team behind Hope Innovations
13th Annual
2025 ALBERTA BEVERAGE AWARDS
A clean, blind tasting methodology where only the best drinks will rise to the top. Judged by leading Alberta sommeliers, retailers, and beverage media, who know the preferences of the Alberta market. Visit culinairemagazine.ca / ABA to enter your products
OPEN TO ANY:
WINE < BEER < SPIRITS < MEAD < CIDER < MIXER
SAKE < LIQUEUR < NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES
REGISTRATION DEADLINE: JUNE 17
Judging July 14, 15, and 16
COMPLETE Results are published with photos and prices in October
Sponsors:
For more information, contact Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca
April Spirits –
Well, it’s likely that most Canadians that haven’t been living under a rock have been buffeted by all sorts of the off again/on again news about various impediments to free trade both internationally and within Canada. And we felt we needed a break, if not in body, then in mind, and we cast our thoughts to the friends in the neighbourhood - Mexico! At the very least, a welcome
Siempre Supremo Tahona Blanco Tequila, Mexico
When I think about all the improvements and developments in premium tequila, and shaking off the reputation of old, I often think about the Siempre tequila line-up – as I’ve yet to have one that didn’t blow my mind! The agave here is baked in the old-style ovens and crushed by a volcanic “tahona” stone wheel, and bottled at a whopping 55 percent ABV. Spicy and fiery with citrus, olive, leafy vegetable, and earthy salinity. A sipper, or a starter for a big night to come– great either way!
CSPC 878952 $125-135
Lost Lore Reposado Tequila, Mexico
Tight and saline, with abundant pepper spice and green pepper or capsicum notes with fine herbal notes and a slightly pickled or briny aroma. Very similar on the palate with lifted alcohols, more of that saltiness, and a smoky, wood fired bread finish. A serious spirit and approach to reposado, and quite honestly, it was surprising how much fun it was to taste it, and watch it continue to grow in my appreciation of it. Smooth, flavourful, and tasty.
CSPC 108660 $92-98
treat to think about at the end of a long winter - maybe some time spent on a beach somewhere if you were lucky, thinking ahead to Cinco de Mayo, maybe having a margarita or two, and supporting a neighbour swept up in world events.
This month, we are all about tequila and we do have to say that some of these offerings were pretty stupendous and a delight to recommend.
Los Arango Tequila Reposado, Mexico
Chockablock with all the right sorts of aromas and flavours, especially a crisp, pepper/cinnamon and almost caramel aroma. In the mouth, the 35 percent ABV makes things a little softer, but there is still a fair bit of alcohol heat. Made and aged in smaller batches, the liquid is a smooth sipper from start to finish, and is easy to enjoy, but can be mixed into cocktails as an alternative to whisky or brandy too.
CSPC 896455 About $60-65
Nobleza 33 Blanco Tequila, Mexico
Distilled by legendary tequila master, Felipe Camarena, at El Pandillo in the Highlands of Jalisco, and made in the traditional way from well water deep beneath the distillery, five percent of this tequila is fermented with agave fibre. This ultra premium tequila is crystal clear with glints of silver, and sweet citrus aromas followed by deliciously fruity, bright agave flavours. You might regularly mix blanco tequilas in your favourite cocktail, but you might not want to hide these bright flavours!
CSPC 104276 $83-90
El Tequileño Still Strength Tequila, Mexico
From La Guarreña distillery in the heart of the old town of Tequila (tip: if you’re planning to visit Tequila, include a stay, or at least a lunch or dinner, at the beautiful Casa Salles in the grounds) this first still strength tequila from El Tequileño has a wonderfully intense, tropical fruit nose, and is a powerhouse. Bottled at 100 proof (50 percent ABV) straight from the still, it’s remarkably smooth – and what joy - there’s no burn. You could make an impressive cocktail with it, or like us you could just appreciate it.
CSPC 111597 $90-100
Cascahuin Blanco Tequila, Mexico
Love it. Plata or white tequilas are often pretty simple or even pretty rough, but a brisk and spicy nose with dried vegetable and herb aromas and an intense spiciness of pepper and salinity. Nice and smooth on the palate, but still distinctly tequila with some of those toasty agave notes. While good on its own, it makes a killer margarita and other classic cocktails. Trust us!
CSPC 843705 $65-70
Tequila Time!
BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
Nobleza 33 Tequila Reposado, Mexico
A very delicate pale yellow colour, Nobleza 33 Reposado has matured for six months in oak bourbon barrels, which come through on the nose in the form of a hint of vanilla alongside aromas of mandarin peel and cooked agave. It’s so full of flavour on the palate - each sip brings out different notes (so take it slowly!) – very definitely reminiscent of caramel on the tip of your tongue and then red apples on the mid palate. Don’t do anything except sip, sit back, and enjoy!
CSPC 104277 $89-113
Siempre
Exclusivo Vivo Blanco Tequila, Mexico
A small batch, limited run tequila, that most definitely we’d love to see more of on our shores, and there is some pretty cool – and unique processes used to make this. Too much to share here, but if interested something to look into. In the glass, it’s pretty amazing. Certainly still tequila, but remarkably soft and subtle with a strong mineral flintiness, a bit of herb and smoke, and a very smooth, almost buttery – but not vanilla character. Sleek, spicy, and yes, sexy on the palate, it’s a game-changer.
CSPC 878955 $185-195
Milagro Reposado Tequila, Mexico
One word to describe this one. Smooth…. Easy to enjoy with a herbal, brine note on the nose supported by cracked black pepper spice and a touch of dried mushroom. Good weight in the mouth, and a great example of very well-priced resposado, suitable for sipping neat and mixing in your favourite beach-style or umbrella drink.
CSPC 733112 $45-49
El Tequileño 65 Aniversario Extra Añejo,
Mexico
Wow! A limited edition of just 1,000 bottles to celebrate El Tequileño’s 65th anniversary, this extra anejo is a blend of aged tequilas from five of the distillery’s best barrels. Complex, deep, and creamy, and bottled in a crystal decanter inside a beautiful box. You’re met with the most fascinating aromas when you lift the glass to your mouth: citrus zest, chocolate, tropical fruit, brown sugar… and on the palate - banana bread, sweet spice, more tropical fruit, a little salinity, and a long, silky finish. Beautiful.
CSPC 897726 $850-900
Tequila Wars – José Cuervo and the Bloody Struggle for the Spirit of Mexico
By Ted Genoways, Norton $42
Tequila is an endlessly fascinating spirit, and at the same time so close to us, but still incredibly exotic. While the spirit itself in some form or another goes back almost 3,000 years, it’s emergence as a global phenomenon is much more recent. José Cuervo – yes, there is an actual person – was instrumental in this, taking a relatively small and humble distillery in essentially the middle of nowhere, bringing rail, and electricity to the region and growing the business into something huge.
Set against the backdrop of the Mexican Revolution, a period of intense upheaval for Mexico, and meticulously researched, including extensive support from the family’s private papers, at times Tequila Wars paints an expressive picture where one can easily visualise these larger than life characters, while at others a deep dive into the politics and machinations of the Mexico in the 20th Century. Either way, tequila enthusiasts or those interested in learning more about this period of Mexico’s history will enjoy this one.
Fruit Beers are in Season
BY DAVID NUTTALL
There is no more polarizing category of beer than fruit beers. Love ‘em or hate ’em, since fruit can be added to any beer style, the variety is almost endless. However they are viewed, they are more prevalent now than any time since commercial brewing began.
Fruit beers are not a new creation, they were probably among the first beers ever brewed. If you go back 10,000 years or so, it is almost certain fruit was one of the ingredients. Grains, water, and yeast by themselves do not make a very tasty beverage, so gruit (a form of herb and spice mixture) was added, sometimes with other ingredients, including fruit. As beer production moved north out of warmer climates, fresh fruit was harder to come by, and gruit took over until hops became the dominant bittering agent, about one thousand years ago.
Fruit beers were still brewed, just more as a specialty item.
The Reinheitsgebot (German Purity Act) banned adjuncts such as fruit in much of central Europe for almost 500 years beginning in 1516. Other brewing countries not named Belgium stuck with the standard four ingredients for beer since fruit can be hard to secure and a pain to work with. As breweries grew in size during the Industrial Revolution, fruit was almost completely abandoned as an unnecessary ingredient for their mainstream beers. Worldwide, very few beers contained fruit until the arrival of the craft beer movement in the 1980s, where the mandate was to produce beers different from those brewed by the larger breweries. In addition to reviving long forgotten or underproduced beer styles, fruit beers returned.
What format of fruit is used, and
when in the brewing process it is added, is different for each beer. From the mash through fermentation, it is also sometimes blended in with the finished beer. Fresh fruit, juice, puree, concentrate, and artificial flavouring or extracts, are all used depending on what kind of beer the brewmaster is trying to create, ranging from those with just a hint all the way to intense fruit-bombs.
Using whole fresh fruit is the ideal, but it has many drawbacks. Even in season, it is not consistent and could have rotten or unripe elements. Fruit has variable sugar levels that affect fermentation and may introduce unwanted wild yeasts and microbes into the beer. It sometimes requires special equipment and is time-consuming to use if it needs to be processed. Furthermore, it can also be messy, sticky, and possibly clog the mechanics.
Juice is a better option without all the solid waste concerns; however, it is often acidic with preservatives and/ or sweeteners. After fermentation, its stability and flavour profile fall into question. Likewise, concentrates might also be acidic and sweetened to the point where the brewer must be careful to watch the alcohol level produced during fermentation. Natural and artificial fruit extracts have stability but do not always produce the quality desired. However, used in small quantities, they help enhance beer post-fermentation.
Purees are preferred as the closest to whole fruit but sometimes contain undesirable elements like pulp, pectin, or higher unwanted sugar levels. They may also be unstable and have a short shelf life. Despite this, they are typically easy to work with and are cheaper than fresh fruit, with greater availability throughout the year.
The best fruit beers have a good expression of the fruit with some semblance of beer flavour that makes the consumer know they are not drinking a vodka cooler. Brewers find which beer styles work well with the fruit they manage to procure and what will sell. There are hundreds of examples available in Alberta, and almost every local brewery has at least one (and usually many more) fruit beers in their portfolio. Here are a few common styles with some local examples.
Wheat Ales
This is one of the first styles to be fruited by craft breweries. Calgary’s Wild Rose Wraspberry and Edmonton’s Alley Kat Aprikat have been around since both breweries opened in the mid-1990s, and each are core beers and best sellers. The spiciness of wheat in a lightly hopped ale harmonizes with most fruitmost Belgian style beers such as Trappist/abbey beers, saisons, wits, and sours all begin with a wheat ale base.
Brewster’s Brewfoot Blueberry Ale 816255, $18 6 pk. cans
Alley Kat Aprikat 883683, $18 4 pk. cans
Wild Rose Wraspberry 811385, $15 4 pk. cans
Sours
If there is one category of beer where fruit is commonly present, it is the sours. Because so many of them have a tart and funky taste due to wild yeast or bacteria, fruit is often used as a sweetener to make them more palatable. Sours were formerly produced only in small European breweries; they have since graduated to become the darling of the craft beer industry. Multiple varieties of sours abound, and their flavour profiles are all over the board, but if you want to try fruit beers, here is a good place to start.
Blindman Dwarf Sour Cherry Fruit Saison 848686, $16 500 mL bottle
Sawback Brewing Blueberry and Pomegranate Sour Ale 105336, $20 4 pk. cans
Gose
Goses are technically sours that originated in Goslar, Germany, and are known for containing salt and coriander. While original German versions rarely appear in the Alberta market, craft breweries have taken up the slack. Since the classic style is somewhat an acquired taste, by dropping the coriander and adding fruit, brewers create a beer that is tasty and refreshing. Think of how well salt marries with watermelon or limes, and you get the idea.
Coming from the Senne Valley of Belgium, lambics are wheat ales fermented with local wild yeasts that produce an almost cider-like beer. They are aged in barrels and blended with up to 30 percent juice from apples, peaches, raspberries, and blackcurrants, although other fruits are also used.
has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
Boon and Lindemans are the two main breweries that appear in the Alberta market, and both have several varieties worth seeking out.
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014,
A MAKING THE CASE Supporting the Neighbours
By TOM FIRTH
pril is “BC Wine Month”, which is as good a reason as any to find, taste, and celebrate our next-door neighbour’s wines. It’s been a bit of a bumpy past few years for them; among other things they suffered a near catastrophic freeze event in the winter of 2023/2024, and temperatures got so low that the vines themselves died en-mass. Extensive re-plantings are underway, but that will take several years to get back to anything close to before.
To help, BC wineries are able to, at least temporarily, source out-of-province material to bolster their production, and thankfully too, the governments of BC and Alberta came to an agreement for wineries to ship directly to Alberta residents –don’t worry, the liquor taxes still get paid.
At this time, I haven’t tried enough of these blends of BC fruit and outside juice or grapes to really comment in depth yet, so all of these wines here are made from 100 percent British Columbia vineyards, and all were excellent bottles. Most of these wines are available at Alberta liquor stores and boutique shops, and I’d recommend shopping there first if you can, but for the hard to find or winery-only wines, reach out - they’d love to hear from you.
Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Burrowing Owl 2022 Merlot, Okanagan Valley
Always an exciting wine to try when it shows up at my doorstep, the winemaking at Burrowing Owl shows their expertise with their merlot which, in my opinion, is definitely at home in the Okanagan. Black plums and dark cherry fruits abound with savoury spices, and a rich earthy/loamy presence. Big tannins supported by balanced fruit and a long, slightly smoky finish. Delicious for certain, it’s drinking well now, though should find an early peak around 2027-2030.
CSPC 1072922 $44-48
Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.
Blue Mountain 2020 Brut Okanagan Valley
A completely delicious, stellar, and exciting to drink sparking wine from the iconic Blue Mountain winery. Rife with biscuity and leesy aromas, yellow apple, and flinty too with a subtle, honeylike flavour on the finish. I’m honestly surprised how good it is for how reasonable the price is. Will pair with just about anything, and it’s a beautiful
A lighter expression of pinot noir, and one that lets the softer fruits shine through along with some of those leafy and vegetable aromas akin to carrot tops and herbs. Easy drinking and clean on the palate with excellent varietal expression and softer tannins and acids than many pinot noirs can have. Very easy to drink in the great outdoors too with just a hint of chilling, a fine match for salmon, grilled poultry, and good company.
CSPC 430306 $24-28
Hands down, one of the best syrahs coming out of BC, and year after year after year, an incredible wine experience. The nose brings everything from pressed flowers, salty cured meats, herb and blackberry, and loads of black spice too. A little more fruit centric than most syrahs from France may be, and a clean, modern approach that brings it all to the table. A great drink anytime, it can age in the cellar a little, but why wait? Try matching with big proteins, smoked or grilled beef, or hard cheese.
CSPC 768439 $48-52
Le Vieux Pin 2022 Cuvée Violette Syrah, Okanagan Valley
Gehringer Brothers 2022 Private Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley
Okanagan Valley
I’ve developed a soft spot in my heart for Okanagan gamays over the years and I’m just as likely to buy a BC one as I am one from France – they are that good. Look for pepper spice and strawberries with slightly juicy/jammy elements, but also mild earth, smoke, and delicate floral notes. This one pairs exceptionally well with beef, but on its own all the clean fruits and textures
Another uncommon variety in the Okanagan, ehrenfelser has a similar profile and sweetness to a couple of other well-loved varieties – riesling and gewürztraminer. Mandarin orange and lychee-style aromas lead the nose with a slightly resinous herbaciousness and floral component. Off dry with noticeable sweetness but that sweetness gives some excellent texture to the palate, and when lightly chilled, makes a refreshing wine for fresh fruit, salty snacks, Pacific, seafood, or fusion foods.
CSPC 171512 $20-24
Hillside Estates 2022 Heritage Series Viognier, Naramata Bench
Viognier has a lot to offer, and can often be a white wine for red wine drinkers or for white wine drinkers who might be a little bored of the ordinary. Intensely floral in the glass with big fruits around pear and apricots along with other stone fruits, with talc and granite style mineral tones too. Big and delicious with all those previously described elements with a long, slightly spicy finish. A treat to drink. Contact the winery directly, $28-32
Okanagan Valley
Pinot Gris, Naramata Bench
Ever-so-slightly pink in the glass from two hours of skin contact – and also entirely barrel fermented, this is a serious, and seriously good pinot gris. Creamy, appley aromas with a tiny presence of vanilla and crusty bread too, things absolutely sing on the palate with good fruits, a bit of tannin tightness and a lengthy, nutty finish. Interesting, complex, and delicious pinot gris from the fine folks at Hillside. Contact the winery directly, $35-40
Okanagan Valley
A rather eclectic blend of sauvignon blanc with pinot grigio, roussanne, muscat, viognier, chardonnay, and a pinch of marsanne. So there is a lot going on there. Crisp and dry with plenty of aromas and flavours to work off, but it’s certainly carried by the sauvignon blanc with citrus and gooseberry along with some grassy notes too - all well integrated. A wine like this begs for a little seafood, and scallops or crab seem to be the way to go though creamier cheese would be a fine match. Serve chilled but not too cold.
CSPC 401372 $30-34
A blend of syrah with merlot and lesser amounts of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, best of all is the integration of all the grapes present, and how they are all bringing something to the whole of the wine. The current vintage, with lovely savoury, meaty tones, black fruits, violets and a bit of charred tomato on the nose. It’s on the palate that it really shines with a beautiful continuation of experience. Can handle nice and big, beefy dishes and should be a star matching at the next barbecue. Contacting the winery is best, $30-35
Okanagan Valley
Nearly every time I open a gewürztraminer I wonder how I forget how awesome a grape it is. While it often has a little sweetness, most examples these days come closer to the crisper, drier examples we find from Alsace, but still preserve the intensity and tight fruit and floral aromas that make this such a treat. Nice and dry here from Wild Goose, with a wee hint of sweet fruit of lychee, mandarin orange, and a load of softer tropical fruits. Great acids throughout and a marvellously spicy finish. An easy pairing with Asian styled foods. CSPC 414748 $24-28
From the Thompson Valley (think Kamloops) in BC, Monte Creek is a trendsetter and a pioneer too. In the ten years or so they’ve been making wine, they continually impress. I’m a longtime fan of cabernet franc, especially from the Okanagan, and I hold that same high standard to this one. Tight and spicy cherry notes with a milder, green peppercorn approach on the nose, but on the palate finely balanced with great tannins, dark fruit, and graphite and mineral tones. Damn good and worth looking for.
CSPC 869401 $26-30
Road 13 2020 5th Element
Okanagan Valley
John Oliver (the BC Premier not the comedian) had a storied career and lasting influence on BC and its agriculture, so putting his name on a bottle wasn’t taken lightly. A premium wine from Road 13, the 2020 is the current release. The blend isn’t exactly shared, but some educated guesses can be made. Loads of cassis, plum, and cherry fruit, and lifted spicy notes, with a juicy blueberry preserve aroma. Big and chewy, almost ponderous, and a bit young right now. Pair with something from the smoker, or huge burgers with bacon. Contact the winery, $65
Wild Goose 2023 Gewürztraminer
Blue Mountain 2022 Gamay Noir
Hillside Estates 2023 Heritage Series
Gehringer Brothers 2022 Ehrenfelser Okanagan Valley
Bartier Bros. 2021 Granite
Monte Creek 2022 Cabernet Franc
Le Vieux Pin 2022 Petit Blanc
Glencairn Mixer Glass
The Glencairn whisky glass is well known to whisky enthusiasts and professional tasters, but the quite new mixer glass was developed with the Canadian whisky industry to help bring out the very best. What we have is a largish, tulip shaped bowl with a fairly narrowed opening to allow even the biggest swirls (or noses) to get right in there. A fine tasting glass, but also looks and works perfectly with mixed drinks that need a garnish, ice, or panache. From about $14. whiskyglass.ca
Keen Protein Bites
When Keen Energy Bite Mix rolled into our office, we were eager to see how it compared to premade energy bars. These tasty little bites come together easily with staples you likely have on hand: nut butter, yogurt, and honey. They make a quick snack (less than 10 mins to prepare and 30 mins in the fridge) that packs a good amount of protein. Perfect for pre or post workout, or when you’re on the go - add these to your stash and get a little more from your snacking. 270 g $10, keenenergy.ca
Derlea Caramelized Onion and Diced Onion
We never really looked at the label of the jar of minced garlic in our fridge until we received two new onion products to trial from Ontario – and we’ve been using Derlea products for years! Their new caramelized onion is a real game changer, so easy and versatile, and so timesaving, the same with their new jars of diced onion - super convenient with no chopping - not to mention no tears! And check out the recipe for their Caramelized Onion Gravy on their website at derlea.ca – oh yum! 185 g $4-6.
Oikos PRO
We’re big fans of Greek yogurt, on its own and as an ingredient in many dishes, so we were excited to try the new Oikos PRO range, and we’re big fans of these now! Their straining process removes some of the whey, resulting in an uberthick and creamy texture and between 18g-24g of dairy protein, making it the highest protein content of any yogurt around – and they’re delicious. There’s a choice of Plain, Banana, Strawberry, and Vanilla 650 g tubs (around $6-7), and Mixed Berries and Strawberry Banana drinkable yogurts (300g $3-4). All Canadian dairy and no added sugar - bonus!
Stoked Oats Oatrice We’re quite fascinated with the latest product from Alberta’s Stoked Oats – Oatrice. It looks like brown rice, cooks like brown rice, and like all their products is preservativefree, pesticide-free, and uses only non-GMO organic oats from Alberta and Saskatchewan. But it isn't rice! It's unprocessed oats that evidently have double the protein and five times the fibre of rice. But we love that it’s absolutely delicious, with a chewy texture and nutty flavour like spelt or farro. It’s a big hit in our office! In Natural and Herby Garlic, 454 g $8-10, stokedoats.com
Insanely Good Ramen Meals
Oh – to have had this book handy in those university days. Ramen is so much more than the package of dusty noodles at the convenience store or on sale at the grocery store for a buck a pack (or so) and now you can live out your dream of eating like a ramen boss. Ivan McCombs covers the basics from cooking that cheap packet, to adding all the accoutrements and flourishes that may make you think you are on Cloud 9. Like Wagyu Beef Ramen to the perfect (for ramen) soft boiled eggs or even some completely, way out there ideas. Harvard Common Press $33
Our 11th Annual
Culinaire Calgary Treasure Hunt
is Sunday May 25
Everyone has gone home a winner at our Culinaire Treasure Hunts and Taste Tours; they’ve been so popular that the spots sell out every year, so now we’ve planned a new and exciting “We’re Thrown for a Loop –Which Way to Go?!” World Taste Tour with new treats to enjoy. And it’s all in one location – just park up and walk, no driving across town!
You’ll answer questions to learn and enjoy different foods at each stop, and use your new knowledge and skill to complete the We’re Thrown for a Loop culinary puzzle to win fabulous prizes! And there are prizes for the best costumes, the
funniest team names, the funniest photos on social media... and lots more!
It’s another very fun and rewarding day, so grab a partner and sign up as a team of two, or sign up solo at culinairemagazine.ca/treasure-hunt.
BY QUINN CURTIS AND LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM
Dominic Caracciolo is all about family — whether by blood or through the connections he’s built with his loyal customers — his deep-rooted family heritage and commitment to tradition are evident in every dish he serves at the restaurant. Caracciolo’s parents immigrated to Calgary from Calabria, Italy, in the early fifties, bringing a little piece of Italy with them by opening an Italian grocery store (or as they would call it in Italy: a mercato) in the heart of Bridgeland, across from the old General Hospital. Some may now recognize the building as the bustling ramen spot, Shiki Menya, but to Caracciolo, it remains a landmark of his parent's hard work and passion—the foundation of his love for the restaurant industry and hospitality.
Of course, Caracciolo didn’t always know he wanted to own an Italian restaurant. “I went to Mount Royal College, took General Studies, and dropped out,” he laughs. “A friend of mine hired me in the securities business on a trading desk. Then, around 2001 or 2002, a lot of family members wanted to retire, move out of Bridgeland, and
all that sort of stuff. That led to a lot of family discussions and decisions, and with my parents getting older, I decided to come in, buy everyone out, and operate in Bridgeland for about a year,” he says.
After running the family business for a year, Caracciolo decided it was time to find a new space for his thriving grocery store. That’s when he discovered the perfect location, and in 2005 he opened up in Mission, nestled on the corner of 4th Street SW.
“My intention was always to have a gourmet grocery store —something high-end. We had a little café, a small restaurant, a cooking school on one side, and a demo area on the other. We started doing lunches, and then the demand for dine-in service really took off,” says Caracciolo.
With his amazing selection of fresh ingredients and delicious dishes, Mercato quickly became the go-to spot for classic, home-cooked Italian meals.
“The space has been torn apart a gazillion times—we’ve moved things around, always trying to keep the essence of old-world charm meeting the new,”
says Caracciolo. But one thing remains constant: it’s always a family affair.
“I partnered with my sister and brotherin-law to open Mercato West. Then, after COVID, I launched Sorella, which my sister now owns and operates,” he says, adding, “our 20-year anniversary made me hyper-focused on this location. I have no plans for other ventures —we’re just constantly working to make Mercato better and ensure we don’t miss any details.”
Despite not being a big wine drinker, Caracciolo is most excited to open a special bottle — a 2011 Barbi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva — gifted to him by one of his wine suppliers, Carlo Belushi from Vendemmia. What makes this wine so special?
“Just the fact that we have so much Barbi Brunello di Montalcino here. Brunello is one of Barbi's most spectacular Italian wines. And for such a relatively small city, we receive an incredible allocation,” says Caracciolo. With his daughter’s 21st birthday approaching, Caracciolo plans to pop open that bottle to celebrate what matters most to him — his family.
