Culinaire CALGARY’S FRESHEST FOOD & BEVERAGE MAGAZINE Volume 2/issue #3 july/august 2013
Shucking awesome! Calgary’s seafood scene is better than ever
Cool Wines | Winning Cold Beers | Canada’s Craft Whiskies
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Meta4 Foods: Bringing The Ocean To Calgary Being the knowledge and spreading the word on all things oyster, Eric Giesbrecht has a special place in our land-locked province. By Diana Ng
Feeding The Thousands
Riding A Wave Of Success
Calgary Folk Festival used to have the worst food of all the festivals but now artists and volunteers alike can’t wait for mealtimes. By Linda Garson
Big Fish was busy from the day it opened its doors, but never more so than after Food Network Canada’s ‘You Gotta Eat Here’. By Cory Knibutat
Off Dry, Off Colour And Off Beat Exploring three unexpected styles of wine that are perfect for Calgary summers. By Peter Vetsch, Tom Firth and Matt Browman
56 The Calgary Brewing And Malting Company The legacy of Calgary pioneer Alfred Ernest Cross,
can be seen all over our city, though the fate of Calgary’s first brewery remains in limbo. By Dave Nuttall
Craft Distillers Here To Stay
Craft distilleries are popping up all over the world, and though it’s still early days, they’re making inroads to Canada’s established whiskey industry. By Andrew Ferguson
Front cover photograph by Ingrid Kuenzel, with thanks and gratitude to all at River Café for their assistance, patience and set dressing.
culinairemagazine.ca • 3
Volume 2/issue #3 july/august 2013
Salutes And Shout Outs
30 Step By Step: Tiramisu
44 Food To Go
By Linda Garson
By Natalie Findlay
9 Cookbook Reviews and Competition
32 The 19th Hole – It’s a Tradition
By Karen Miller
10 Event Previews
By David Nuttall
12 Ask Culinaire
By Executive Chef JP Pedhirney
13 Bringing Cool Treats to Calgary Streets By Carmen Cheng
15 The One That Did Not Get Away....
By Anne Gannon
By Dan Clapson
38 Grilled Desserts By Stephanie Arsenault
40 White Rhone Blends By Adrian Bryksa 42 Soup Kitchen
By Fred Malley
49 It’s a Herbal World By Leonard Brown 54 Wines Travels
By Tom Firth
55 Open That Bottle
14 Menu Gems
By Dan Clapson
36 Coast to Coast: An Oyster For All!
46 Holy Smoke
By Jocelyn Burgener
34 A Match Made In Palate Heaven
By Natalie Findlay
By Linda Garson
58 Award Winning Beers for Summer
By David Nuttall and Meaghan O’Brien
64 Calgary Summer Cocktails
By Tarquin Melnyk
By Chef Thierry Meret
28 Smart Seafood Choices
66 Go East Young Man
By Dan Clapson
4 • July/August 2013
By Gabriel Hall
Letter From The Editor Never has it been more in evidence though, than in the events of the last few weeks. Can there be anyone in the city untouched by the floods that have ravaged our city? If you weren’t evacuated yourself, chances are that you opened your house to displaced friends. The Spirit of Calgary… … and for once I don’t mean what’s in our highball and shot glasses this month. Our city is already famous for its collaborative efforts, with chefs banding together to create wonderful dining experiences instead of vying for customers, and entrepreneurial support for anyone trying to make a success of their small business. How many times, when explaining Culinaire and our vision to people in this city, has the response been “You go, girl!” Calgary has always been supportive, never small-minded.
The outpouring of generosity, right from the first signs of trouble, has been unmatched. Calgary’s restaurants and food trucks took to the streets to help feed volunteers and evacuees, out of their own pockets, and raising thousands of dollars for flood victims in the process. The list is far too long to include everyone, but within minutes of hearing of the disaster, restaurants like Xocolat were already offering free late night food, Peter’s Drive In offered free burgers to all EMS, Fire and Police officers as well as anyone covered in mud from helping to clean-up, Downtownfood and Fiasco Gelato fed Chinatown cleanup volunteers, Alley Burger served
hundreds of free burgers only asking for donations to the Red Cross. Model Milk, Tubby Dog and Clive Burger ran an event at National On 17th to support the nearby affected communities, even they had no power themselves. Anejo, Original Joe’s and Purple Perk on 4th Street ran a free barbecue for volunteers and evacuees, and as soon as NOtaBLE regained power they provided free food for all their displaced neighbours. The list is a very long one. But what of those restaurants so severely damaged that they will struggle to reopen, those who have suffered loss of inventory and loss of revenue while so many of their customers were not able to get to them? It’s for us to support our local businesses now, and be proud to do so. Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief email@example.com
Getting to know you, getting to know all about you… Now we’re in our second year, we’d love to know more about our readers to make sure our topics and features in Culinaire Magazine stay relevant, so we’d be very grateful if you would fill in our short survey on our website at culinairemagazine.ca to tell us more about yourself.
It won’t take more than a few minutes and we certainly won’t be letting anyone else share this information. We won’t even know ourselves who has filled in which answers as there’s no contact details required, it’s purely for us to be able to create relevant articles on subjects you want to read about – and we’re offering superb prize draws for all those who let us have their feedback! This month we have a limited edition
package of Chivas Regal 18 by Pininfarina, worth $136, for the lucky winner! Chivas Regal 18 Scotch whisky and renowned Italian design company Pininfarina (of Ferrari and Rolls-Royce fame) have come together for the first time to create this luxurious, collector’s limited edition bottle. Pininfarina has been a crusader in Italian design and engineering since 1930 and Chivas Regal is the original luxury whisky blend, established in 1909. Culinaire Magazine is thrilled to offer such an exclusive prize! All entries will be entered each month for a chance to wine other amazing prizes too! We look forward to hearing from you!
Cu inaire Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth
Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson firstname.lastname@example.org
Commercial Director: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 email@example.com
Advertising: Corinne Wilkinson
Keri Lorenz-Pain 403-540-3062 firstname.lastname@example.org
Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Stephanie Arsenault Matt Browman Leonard Brown Adrian Bryksa Jocelyn Burgener Carmen Cheng Natalie Findlay Andrew Ferguson Anne Gannon Gabriel Hall Brenda Holder Cory Knibutat Ingrid Kuenzel Fred Malley Tarquin Melnyk Thierry Meret Karen Miller Diana Ng David Nuttall Meaghan O’Brien JP Pedhirney Peter Vetsch Janine Eva Trotta Peter Vetsch
Contact us at:
Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 email@example.com www.culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Our Contributors < Matt Browman Bartending in Japan in the early 1990s brought Matt, in a roundabout way, to the beginning of a vinous obsession in Niagara-on-the-Lake, where upon completion of an English Literature BA he accepted a beverage management position for which he was sorely unqualified. He has completed the ISG Diploma, WSET Diploma, as well as the Court of Master Sommelier Advanced Diploma. Matt’s career has taken him through restaurant, retail, education, journalism and judging (often simultaneously, and insofar as it was legal) as well as many of the major wine-growing regions of the world.
< Carmen Cheng Carmen comes from a long line of food enthusiasts, and has worked with some of Canada’s most respected corporations, facilitating and developing leadership and organizational development programs. Social media offered the ability to merge her communications skills with her passion for food. She launched a blog and twitter (@foodkarmablog) to better connect with the Alberta food community, and enjoys meeting others who share her love of culinary adventures. When she’s not facilitating or eating, Carmen can be found at Tutti Frutti Frozen Yogurt on 17th Avenue SW, where she is a co-owner.
< Diana Ng Diana Ng is the web editor at up! magazine and a freelance food writer who is constantly trying to get food stains out of her shirts. She has also contributed to CanadianLiving.com, Fresh Juice, and Avenue magazine. She is currently working on getting EatNorth.ca off the ground, a national food media source with some amazingly talented contributors from coast-to-coast.
Paradiso: 1.5 oz Bombay Sapphire 0.4 oz Campari 1/3 oz Roasted Fennel syrup 1 oz Lemon juice 3 drops Bombay Sapphire “Firenze Tincture” (Salami, Dried red chili, Fennel Seed)
BC wineries are winning awards worldwide! La Frenz - awarded “Best Small Winery Of The Year” at the 2013 Riverside International Wine Competition in California. Quails Gate – taking home numerous gold and silver medals in the Pacific Rim Wine Competition, Decanter World Wine Awards, and UK’s International Wine & Spirit Competition Burrowing Owl Estate Winery - awarded two ‘Best in Class’ Gold Medals at Los Angeles International Wine Competition
Canada’s Most Imaginative Bartender Great job Franz Swinton, one of Calgary’s cocktail scene patriarchs, representing Canada at Bombay Sapphire’s
…and Shout Outs Win 2 tickets to the Annual Naramata Bench Wineries Tailgate Party! Yes, one lucky Culinaire reader will win two tickets to The Party of the Season on the Okanagan’s Naramata Bench, worth $200! Wow – this event sells out in advance every year!
Build ingredients and shake vigorously. Double strain into chilled coupe glass and garnish with fennel fronds.
‘World’s Most Imaginative Bartender’ recent competition in Florence, Italy. The four-day competition brought together top mixologists worldwide to create their most imaginative cocktail – combining their individual tastes, talent, inspiration and imagination with the cultural experiences they had encountered throughout the trip. Swinton proved a very worthy competitor, adding his own unique flair and style to his cocktail -
The theme is Fish ‘N Sips ~ a Picnic at the Beach, taking place on September 7th 2013, from 6:30 pm to 9:00 pm (with sunset over the lake at about 7:15!) at Manitou Beach Park in Naramata. There’s a free shuttle service from Penticton before the event and then back at the end of the event too. Seven Naramata restaurants will each feature a gourmet Ocean Wise™ seafood offering and 24 Naramata wineries will circle their trucks, presenting a selection of wines for you to taste. There’s picnic activities, music, and if you want you can dance under the stars! A great event to plan a trip around to visit Naramata Bench Wine Country. To enter, go to www.culinairemagazine. ca and tell us your favourite or most memorable picnic story. The best story will win two tickets!
Congratulations Calgary Folk Fest! On June 12, 2013 the Calgary Folk Fest was presented with a Calgary Award for Environmental Achievement. The Calgary Awards are the city’s official citizen recognition program, celebrating local organizations and individuals for their outstanding achievements and significant contributions for improving the quality of life in Calgary.
We can’t wait to hear from you! More info at www.naramatabench.com *Must be 19 years or older for entry.
More reasons to be cheerful in July! Innis & Gunn’s annual limited edition brew appears for their loyal Canadian following! The single-bottle package features the artwork of a Canadian artist - this year’s winner is Tatianna O’Donnell from Salmon Arm, BC. And watch our too for their new range ‘Melville’s’: craft-brewed lagers flavoured with real strawberry, raspberry or ginger.
By Karen Miller
I grew up summers in Maine, loving all shellfish but mostly lobsters. Coming down for cereal in the morning I would find live lobsters crawling on the floor, brought in by the tide and “rescued” by my mother. Lobster and other types of shellfish are considered sexy, elegant food these days, but this has not always been so, often referred to as a poor man’s lunch. My, how times change.
How to Make Love to a Lobster An Eclectic Guide to the Buying, Cooking, Eating and Folklore of Shellfish Marjorie Harris and Peter Taylor Whitecap Books 2013. $19.95
Decades of Decadence By Rebecca Klemke Friessen Press 2012. $44.95 Klemke is a passionate cook who feels lucky to have been able to spend time learning from her Grandma (the book was 8 1/2 years in the making). Lois O’Connor loved to cook and entertain, presiding over all family dinners on Sundays and holidays. Rebecca grew up with these traditions and starting cooking her “own” roast chicken (her favourite) at 11 years old. The book is a serious compilation of family favourites, staples and cooking knowledge. There are great photos from family archives and stories of the inspiration for recipes. Rebecca’s Grandma was well travelled and brought
This book addresses the new sexy side of shellfish, including crab, scallops and shrimp, abalone and conch, mussels and scallops. There is lots of sensational and all-encompassing information on buying, storing and eating (some do require more explicit directions for the uninitiated) of the different types of shellfish, as well as details of their sex life
and how it affects ours. The book relies on classic recipes and although not illustrated, it makes an interesting read for seafood lovers. My personal favourite shellfish recipe is the infamous “Lobster Rolls”. Make it with fresh lobster and preferably by the ocean! If you can’t, try “Good Places to Eat Shellfish” at the back of the book, it includes places in Canada (although not Calgary!). The Lobster Rolls recipe is at www.culinairemagazine.ca for you to make at home!
back the flavours to her family’s table. Some recipes have been updated, others remain true to the era (such as Jellied Salads). Also of the era, is cooking in high heels, as Lois O’Connor did. Rebecca’s “we are not in Kansas anymore” shoes are certainly part of her own story and appear on the cover and throughout the book, a homage to her grandmother’s style. We need more passing on of family recipes and traditions from one
generation to another. Rebecca’s advice “spend more time with each other using food as the medium... creating your own memorable experiences”. Rebecca’s Mussels In Wine recipe is at www.culinairemagazine.ca for you to try at home! Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.
Win your own copy of Decades of Decadence signed by Rebecca Klemke! We’re looking for your favourite recipe from your grandma. Rebecca will choose her favourite entry and the winner will receive a personally signed copy of this beautiful book. We’ll also print our favourites in a future edition of Culinaire too! Go to www.culinairemagazine.ca and let us know your favourite recipe handed down by your grandma, to be entered in the competition. We can’t wait to hear from you!
By David Nuttall
From Victoria Day in May until Labour Day in September, dozens of festivals in and around Calgary dominate the social calendar. All of them have some form of gastronomic delights to seduce us. People will wait all year to see what new form of deep fried goodness will make its appearance on the Stampede midway. In addition to these festivals, look for the many small festivals, also in towns all over Alberta. Almost every town of a decent size has at least one event each summer.
Calgary Folk Music Festival, Prince’s Island Park
Heritage Day, Prince’s Island Park, Fort Calgary, and Heritage Park
Calgary’s biggest music festival, but full of different cuisines to try too. Look for: Avatara Pizza, Fat City Franks, Fiasco Gelato, Flipp’n Crapes, Go Greek, India Palace, Happy Truck, Phil & Sebastian Coffee, Ship and Anchor, Toa International, Sugar Creek Kettle Corn, and many of Calgary’s Food Trucks. www.calgaryfolkfest.com
Enjoy multicultural dancers, music, international food tour, arts and crafts, children’s area and more. www.calgaryfolkartscouncil.ca www.fortcalgary.com www.heritagepark.ca
Afrikadey! Various locations The main Festival takes place at Prince’s Island Park on August 10. Join in for an all-day celebration of African arts and culture, including an international marketplace and food court. www.afrikadey.com
Come Hell or High Water - Calgary Stampede
Jamaica Independence Gala Another exciting affair showcasing authentic Jamaican food. Share in this rich, exciting cultural experience, listen to live music and enjoy the dancers and performers. www.jcaalberta.com
Calgary’s biggest festival, is celebrating its centennial plus one this year. Think pancake breakfasts, beef-on-a-bun and the food of the midway. There are over 30 new Midway treats this year. Remember, calories don’t count during Stampede. www.calgarystampede.com
July 29-August 4
Chinatown Street Festival
Fiestaval, Olympic Plaza
Calgary International Blues Festival, Shaw Millennium Park
A two day, free, multicultural arts and entertainment festival highlighting Latin American culture, food, and the arts. www.fiestaval.ca
Get ready for some of the greatest names in music while enjoying food and drink from local concessions. www.calgarybluesfest.com
2013 Calgary Dragon Boat Race & Festival, North Glenmore Park
SunFest is a three block Renaissance Street Fair held on 9th Ave in Inglewood. Enjoy the sights, sounds and tastes of Calgary’s Original Main Street. www.inglewoodsunfest.com
With over 850 competitors and 2,500 spectators, this festival is more than just boat races. There are food and retail vendors, as well as many multicultural performances and live music. www.chinatowncalgary.com/ dragonboat/Festival.html
Sun and Salsa Festival, Kensington Purchase a bag of chips from charities and taste test your way through all the spicy salsa recipes served up by teams of Kensington businesses. www.visitkensington.com/sun-andsalsa
Inglewood SunFest, 9 Avenue between 11 and 14 St. SE
Chinatown’s premiere summer multicultural festival; a combination of food, merchants and entertainment. www.chinatowncalgary.com
Marda Gras Street Festival, Marda Loop The festival includes the sights and sounds of New Orleans, including free entertainment featuring jazz, rhythm, blues and zydeco music, a variety of cultural performers, about 200 vendors, and several outdoor patios and food kiosks. www.mardaloopbrz.ca
GlobalFest 2013, OneWorld Festival, Elliston Park
Not just a fireworks competition, Elliston Park comes alive with the OneWorld Festival. Take in the sights, sounds, smells, and tastes from around the world with authentic ethnic food from Brazil, Caribbean, Fiji and Pacific islands, Philippines, Indonesia, Quebec, Ukraine, and Vietnam to name just a few! With everything from heritage dress, cultural music, incredible performances and interactive activities, there is something for everyone. 24 Cultural Pavilions showcase and celebrate over 60 unique cultures from Alberta’s ethnic communities. www.globalfest.ca
Reggaefest, Various locations The main festival is at Shaw Millennium Park on August 17, with live performances from Canadian and international reggae artists. It features a beer garden, plenty of arts and crafts, and food vendors. www.calgaryreggaefestival.com
August 15-18, 11:00 am – 9:00 pm
Taste of Calgary, Eau Claire Festival Plaza Taste of Calgary is the city’s premier outdoor festival celebrating international foods and beverages. Visitors indulge in sample-size menu items at sample sized pricing, from Calgary’s finest food and beverage establishments. As usual the festival supports three local charitable and nonprofit organizations – the Boys and Girls Club of Calgary, the Calgary Chinese Community Services Association and the Saracens Rugby Club. www.tasteofcalgary.com
Japanese Festival, Bridgeland Riverside Community Centre & Park Now in its 3rd year, Calgary Japanese Festival Omatsuri presents a wide variety of Japanese cultural activities, music, dance, food and merchandise, martial arts demonstrations, and more. There will be games for kids, galleries of local Japanese arts and crafts, and kiosks for authentic Japanese goods. www.calgaryjapanesefestival.com
Expo Latino, Prince’s Island Park Presented by Hispanic Arts Society of Calgary, this festival is all about Latin art and culture, music and dancing, handicrafts and jewelry stalls, and great food too! www.hispanicarts.com
August 31-September 1
BBQ on the Bow Festival, Eau Claire Festival Market Plaza This is Canada’s oldest BBQ Competition and home of the Alberta BBQ Championships. With main stage entertainment, children’s craft tent, a BBQ food pit and concession, sponsor’s display tents, and a general store and street zone. www.bbqonthebow.com
Ask Culinaire By chef JP Pedhirney
What are some simple guidelines when cooking fish?
Answer: Fish can be the most intimidating protein in the kitchen for almost all home cooks - at least the ones I meet. I think everyone can relate to a time where poor quality or texture from underdone or overdone seafood has resulted in a less than memorable dining experience. However, those who can learn to tame the delicate qualities of these proteins will open the doors to a culinary world of vast options, healthy alternatives and creative dinner plans. My first piece of advice - get your fish from a specialized seafood supplier! As you look around for a family doctor, do the same for a fish supplier. They will be your go-to person when fish is going to be on the menu. Check out their shop, looking for the following indicators of quality: fresh fish should be displayed on ice; the flesh and skin of the fillets, like salmon and trout, should be vibrant in colour and not cloudy. Ask to be shown how firm the fillets are; fresh fillets do not indent when pressure is applied. If the fish is whole, check the eyes of the fish because they should be clear, not cloudy. Gills should be a bright red/purple colour, never grey.
12 • July/August 2013
Now ask questions. Where does this fish come from? How often do your orders come in? Do you support sustainable practices like Ocean Wise? If the supplier can answer all of these questions with confidence, you’re in the right place. My favourite supplier is Dave with City Fish. He has a great program with quality products arriving fresh every day. He is very knowledgeable when it comes to all types of fish and can answer pretty much any question you have about seafood. Now you need to know how to cook the fish. Fish proteins are very delicate, they coagulate close to room temperature and the flesh changes from translucent to opaque. The processes of fibres coagulating and collagen softening happen almost simultaneously and at low temperatures, so it’s easy to understand why fish is easily overdone.
In the restaurant, we use aluminum cake probe testers to test for doneness. We put the probe into the fish, and then put it up to our bottom lip to feel the heat. As soon as the aluminum is warm, we know that the fish is done perfectly. A cake probe can be replaced by a metal fork or small sharp knife. Whether you’re cooking fish in a pan or on a grill, it should always be well coated in fat to prevent from sticking. In the kitchen we use the French term “fruit de mer” when we discuss seafood, translating to “fruit of the sea”. Follow and practice these guidelines and I can assure you that you will receive pleasant smiles at the table the next time you present Mother Nature’s “fruit de mer” for dinner! Chef JP Pedhirney is a Red Seal Certified Chef. He led the kitchen at Rouge Restaurant as Chef de Cuisine and is now the Executive Chef of Muse Restaurant in Kensington
Bringing Cool Treats To Calgary Streets: Fiasco Gelato By Carmen Cheng
What else represents summer better than food trucks? How about a food truck that serves artisanal gelato? Lovingly named “Ellie”, Fiasco Gelato’s food truck - one of the original seven to begin rolling in 2011 - serves up some delicious flavours to satisfy many a Calgarian’s sweet tooth! through several challenges that threatened to shut down operations. An astronomical rent increase pushed him to rethink Fiasco’s business model. In 2010, Boettcher would move away from a storefront set-up, instead distributing their gelato through restaurants and high-end retailers. The vision saved Fiasco from a potential closure and grew it into a blossoming business. Prior to roaming the streets, Fiasco developed a great reputation for its hand-crafted gelato and attention to quality ingredients. What customers may not know about Fiasco is their story of determination. As a freelance consultant, James Boettcher originally worked on the graphics and brand strategy of Fiasco back in 2003. Boettcher’s passion for the Fiasco brand was clear, and four years later when the founder was looking for someone to acquire the company, he called Boettcher. “Magic happens sometimes,” he says, “I thought he might offer me a job and instead he offered me a proposal of acquiring the company. He didn’t really want to sell it but he knew how much I believed in it.” That commitment to Fiasco would become his driving force over the next few years, as Boettcher persevered
Walking into Fiasco’s headquarters, the environment resembles a creative agency more than a food production facility. The space is bright and open and boasts walls decorated with employee goals and photos. Boettcher’s leadership philosophy is simple - engage employees to love their work. Fiasco’s food truck has allowed the company to grow its reach and to better engage with communities. The mobility of Fiasco’s truck gives Calgarians easy access to a variety of innovative gelato flavours. Fiasco’s gelatieres (aka gelato chefs) have a knack for pairing unexpected ingredients together to create amazing flavours. The only flavour that has remained relatively unchanged from their original menu is the Mumbai Mango Sorbetto and for good reason; it is jam-packed with the flavour of
ripened mangoes. You can also cool down this summer with fresh flavours like Blueberry Basil Sorbetto or their Strawberry Balsamic. Be sure to save room for a taste of their Salted Hazelnut White Chocolate gelato. The sharp saltymeets-sweetness makes it quite a crowd pleaser. With the success of their mobile gelato truck, the team recently launched a second truck “Bambino”. Bambino brings a fun concept – build your own artisanal gelato sandwiches with six cookie options and six Fiasco gelato flavours. Don’t expect Fiasco to stop with Bambino, the company will continue to innovate and bring exciting new treats to customers. “I never expected any of this to happen overnight,” explains Boettcher, “I didn’t expect food trucks to happen as quickly as [they] did. We’ll just keep proving our point!” Find out where Fiasco and Bambino are heading next by following them on Twitter @FiascoGelato. For more information on James and his trucks, head to fiascogelato.ca Carmen Cheng comes from a family of adventurous eaters. There aren’t many foods that she won’t try. She loves to chat about what to eat next on twitter @foodkarmablog. culinairemagazine.ca • 13
Menu Gems Our contributors are sharing their favourite seafood dishes in our meat-eating city’s restaurants… Crispy Cornmeal Calamari, Vin Room
I can’t get enough of the Crispy Cornmeal Calamari with red onions and togarashi aioli at Vin Room. It’s perfectly cooked, full of balanced flavour, and pairs beautifully with a glass of wine on the patio. Stephanie Arsenault
Fried Whole Rainbow Trout, Brasserie Kensington
Lindaprepared Garsonand well This trout is exceptionally tasty, perfectly presented. It’s light, and complemented by full-flavoured accompaniments of brown butter, almonds, aioli and crisp shoestring potato fries. Leonard Brown
Lobster Poutine, Brava Bistro
The sign of a great dish is its relative status as a staple item. If one is to attempt to combine mainland Quebecois hearty heritage comfort with maritime gourmet indulgence, this is how it is done. Long before the great poutine explosion of the last few years, Brava was combining generous snippets of lobster meat with rustic potato beams and mascarpone in mid-melt, all smothered under warm seafood butter. Ask for a glass of the white Burgundy du jour for pairing perfection. . Matt Browman
Nero di Sepia Linguini Vongole, Cucina
This squid ink linguine is loaded with briny clams. The sauce is simple - made with cherry tomatoes, garlic, and chilli, but the flavours are so bold. Every time I order this dish I’m reminded of the amazing meals we had in Cinque Terre, Italy. Carmen Cheng
Sashimi and Sushi Set, Sushi Club
I particularly love the raw slices of tuna, salmon, and scallop. The colour of each cut of fish is vibrant, from the orange hue of the salmon, the rose tinge of the tuna to the creamy ivory of the scallop. Dining on sashimi at Sushi Club is a sensory experience. Christine Louie
New England Style Clam Chowder, Catch
Anytime I’m in the area and have some time I love the clam chowder at Catch. Even better if it’s cold, windy, or snowing. The chowder and a pint of beer is a perfect way to chill out. Tom Firth
Samaki, Safari Grill
An outstanding addition to Safari Grill’s already superb and flavourful menu, Samaki is a dish to share. They take a whole tilapia, score it and rub in Zanzibar spices before cooking it to a crispy outside and melting inside. It comes with other favourites, Masala Potatoes and Spinach Curry.. Linda Garson
Grilled Prawns, Vin Room
The brightness of the ginger and the spike from the sake kicks this grilled shrimp dish up a notch. Even more delicious if you’re enjoying it on the patio in Mission! Dan Clapson
Kyle, the chef at Catch, made my retirement celebration special last week. I had to indulge in fresh Malpeque oysters with mignonette, an awesome ginger soy vinaigrette with tuna tartare, Qualicum Beach Scallops in Thai green curry, with just enough heat to not kill the wine, and a crisp skinned striped bass before a decadent chocolate dessert plate. Great service to go with the atmosphere and attention to detail.. Fred Malley
Prawn Rolls, Model Milk
The bread is perfectly toasted, big chunks of prawns and texture from everything else in it. Dressed perfectly, not too heavy! Diana Ng
Mussels, River Café
My favourite is definitely River Café’s mussels on the patio. It’s a euphoric experience! JP Pedhirney
The One That Did Not Get Away.... By Anne Gannon
When I was a student, I spent a few months as an au pair with a French family. Monsieur was a wellto-do Lyonnais merchant, whose elderly parents formally called each other ‘vous’ and expected the hired help to sit below the salt; and Madame, a no-nonsense woman, was the daughter of a baron who was a real estate agent in the ancestral lands of Brittany. It was here they spent their summer vacation and where I met my first victim. One morning, Madame, fresh from the fish market, came into the kitchen in a hurry and tipped a huge spider crab on the kitchen table, announcing it was for lunch and she had to leave. The children fled shrieking. This was the woman who told me I was not to use any variation of the word ‘fear’ to the children, so they would not know the concept. I had spent the previous afternoon trying to persuade the little girl to let a little beach crab tickle her palm with its minuscule legs instead of running away in terror, and now her mother dumps the behemoth of the deep in front of her. The concept was now cowering in the corner, sobbing. “Qu’est-ce qu’on va faire avec ca?” (or similar), I asked, carefully using the third person to avoid suggesting I might have any part in its demise – to no avail. Desperation drove me to try another tack. I had seen on a cooking show on TV (a rare event - this was the 60s) that you could anaesthetize or kill a crustacean by jabbing a pin between the eyes. And did I know where this magic spot was? Madame demanded. Well no, I had to confess, I hoped she knew. Madame had enough of this
nonsense. “Into the pot!” she said, and left me to it. The children now emerged, even though the crab was still waving its claws and scrabbling around on the tabletop; but it hadn’t dropped to the floor and chased them. Into the water he sank and I put on the lid so I wouldn’t see his or hear his death throes, le pauvre. That was not the end of my French culinary adventure, it was a whole summer of new experiences. The very
next week we had a meat-like dish that was not meat. On inquiring, I was informed matter-of-factly, “C’est du marsouin”. Now, I never told my kids that I had eaten Flipper’s cousin while reading to them about porpoises and dolphins gambolling in the waves, but I did hope there had been no slaughter on the beach, and Madame had just purchased some nice steaks at the fishmongers...
Meta4 Foods: Bringing The Ocean To Calgary By Diana Ng Photography by Ingrid Kuenzel
Serendipity, passion, inspiration, self-fulfilment--these are all guiding elements of Meta4 Foods that would make bottom-linedriven suits like Kevin O’Leary throw a hissy fit. But, owner Eric Giesbrecht’s business is thriving, without having to ask, “What’s in it for me?”
and forgo this idea of opening a little restaurant in Nanaimo.” Eventually, the demand for oyster distribution eclipsed the catering side of the business and Giesbrecht made the call to pursue supplying premium foods in full force, offering products that excite and inspire him, rather than what is traditionally thought of as profitable. “I connect people and products and, in exchange, I feel connected to my world,” says Giesbrecht.
Meta4 Foods is a premium Canadian food wholesaler based in Calgary, best known for providing oysters in the city. If you’ve ever slurped an oyster in any of Cowtown’s top restaurants, chances are, it came from Giesbrecht, who is often found shucking the bivalves at food events around the city. He is known as the “oyster man”, and you might even find his name stored as Eric Oyster in the phones of people in the food industry. So how does one become the “Oyster Man”? At the start of Giesbrecht’s cooking career, he apprenticed at the notable Catch Restaurant. There, chef Michael Noble insisted on buying oysters from the best small farmers from the East and West Coasts, and not brokers whose offerings were largely driven by the market and prices. “It drove up food costs past the comfort zone of the owners at the time, but it was because of his desire to maintain direct working relationships with these small seafood producers that changed the landscape of how seafood came to the prairies,” Giesbrecht recalls. Thus Giesbrecht developed a nonnegotiating attitude towards excellent seafood.
Before long, he was participating in oyster shucking competitions in B.C. and P.E.I., and building professional relationships that later proved pivotal to his business. He worked as a personal chef for an affluent family, while maintaining his connections to the oyster scene by delivering the bivalves to downtown restaurants, weekly. When the family later moved, Giesbrecht wanted out of the demanding and often unhealthy chef’s world, yet still to be close to his passion for cooking. Catering offered the flexibility that Giesbrecht was looking for, and Meta4 Foods, inspired by the oyster’s metaphor for an unmediated, unadulterated way of experiencing the world, was established.
Although the growth of Giesbrecht’s career into culinary arts and Meta4 Foods’ nature from catering to distribution was organic and natural, it was not without challenges. When the economy took a dive in the 2000s, Giesbrecht had to make the difficult decision of re-entering the corporate world for a steady income, which led to deep soul-searching for personal fulfilment. When the job didn’t work out, the silver-lining was that it left him more determined than ever to succeed. Today, Meta4 Foods carries ten to fifteen varieties each of East Coast and West Coast oysters, other shellfish, along with Canadian caviar and sturgeon, fresh farmed halibut, wild foraged mushrooms, fiddleheads and other specialty products. Currently, Giesbrecht is working on a hot sauce that pairs with the oysters.
From the close ties that Giesbrecht maintained, Brent Petkau (of Cortes Island) approached him to distribute his products in Calgary.
In a landlocked province, educating customers and keeping abreast of industry news on a coastal product is especially important. In addition to shucking oysters at various dinner events, Giesbrecht gives presentations on behalf of Slow Food Calgary, an advocate group that champions the connection between farmers and consumers.
“I was excited just to be working with him,” he says. “I thought I wanted to move to the West Coast to continue working in the shellfish world but there’s just so many cool things going on in Calgary: my family is here and there’s lots of opportunities, so I decided to stay
“The hot sauce has actually been around for ten years, but I am just now looking at bringing it to the marketplace of street level consumers.” Giesbrecht continues, “It is being served at a couple of restaurants...MARKET right now and downtownfood on past menus.”
of the products in relation to their surroundings, but to the livelihood of their producers. “I’m 100% behind sustainable food sources. I also take into consideration the lives of people who are producing the food, ensuring they’re getting a fair price and wage,” he says.
To keep up the knowledge that is required to be an expert in the area, Giesbrecht travels to the coasts as often as possible and connects regularly with farmers and producers, as well as departments of fisheries about issues concerning the environment and prices. On the topic of sustainability, Giesbrecht not only considers the sustainability
What fuels Giesbrecht has always been finding inspiration from and building relationships with like-minded oyster geeks. Today, with Meta4 Foods booming, and he is taking his passion to the next level with the launch of OysterTribe -- a new brand that currently has a line of oyster paraphenlia in the works. “I will begin to present myself in the city as hailing from OysterTribe, per se.” he explains, Meta4 Foods will remain the identity of the food service/ wholesale company.” Sounds pretty shucking cool to me! Diana Ng is the web editor at up! magazine and a freelance food writer who is constantly trying to get food stains out of her shirts.
How To Shuck An Oyster In 4 Steps... By Dan Clapson
1. Using a glove or a small towel, hold flat side of the oyster up, with the hinged end facing towards you. Insert the knife about 1/3 back from the wide end of the oyster. 2. Go in with the shucking knife pointed down and move it carefully back and forth until the back of the shell pops open. 3. Move the knife along the top of the shell to sever the adductor muscle, continue to rotate the oyster slightly while doing this until the top of the shell comes off. (note: there should be no oyster meat still stuck to the top of the shell) 4. Use the knife to slice under the lower adductor muscle to completely loosen the meat while flipping the oyster meat over in the process. Serve straight away on the half shell!
Sundays, 9:30am to 1:00pm - Zoo admission combo price before noon!
Treat yourself to a truly unique experience at Safari Lodge Canada in the Calgary Zooâ€™s Destination Africa exhibit. For more information visit calgaryzoo.com
Feeding The Thousands Behind The Scenes at Calgary Folk Festival Catering By Linda Garson Photography by Natalie Findlay
It will come as no surprise to people in Calgary, particularly after the catastrophic events at the end of last month, to learn that we have a 20% higher increment of volunteering than the Provincial average, according to the Statistics Canada 2007 Survey of Giving, Volunteering and Participating. 71% of Calgarians volunteer, and statistics from Volunteer Calgary (volunteercalgary.ab.ca) show that we conduct over 300,000 searches on their website for volunteer positions each year. Volunteers are the backbone of the Calgary Folk Festival. They build the festival city and maintain it for four action-packed days, enthusiastically running almost every facet of the operation from taking your ticket at the gate, selling CDs, keeping the site clean and picking up the rubbish, keeping the water stations stocked, and serving beer. So what do they get in return? Stats Canada tell us that “94% of volunteers in Calgary are driven by a desire to make a contribution to the community”, but there’s more. More than access to Prince’s Island Park during the Festival weekend, more than their volunteer T-shirt – they are provided with complimentary meals, and having spent some time in the volunteer area at last year’s festival, I can vouch for the impressive set-up and quality of those meals!
Overseeing the Festival catering is Calgary schoolteacher, Gerald Lajeunesse, himself a volunteer. When he took over twelve years ago, both artists and volunteers would complain about the food and the lack of choice for vegetarians. ““I’ve been a chef for 20 years and am heavily into gardening”, he says, “I only wanted to feed the volunteers.” At that time, Calgary had the worst food service of all the festivals for their volunteers. They used to run out, so they’d have a snack bar for artists and volunteers. Lajeunesse knew that Winnipeg, Edmonton, Calgary and Vancouver festivals all built big kitchens and fed volunteers, so he set out to research the others to see how he could improve the operation here. “We went through a few caterers”, he says but then recruited the services of
volunteers Maggie Jones, a veggie cook in Calgary (now in B.C.), and Diane Slater, Hospitality Cold Food Co-ordinator, to design a salad bar that could be a meal. Diane had a line of camping meals, her own business for 10 years, and still works in a health food store. They try for organic, wherever possible, and to make sure there’s enough variety and choice to cater for all allergies and special dietary requirements. Lajeunesse then simplified the hot menu choices, to offer one entrée and one vegetarian alternative. There’s gluten free bread if you ask for it too. The Festival owns a fair bit of the equipment and rents the rest. They built a jig for the flooring; the record tent has it now and there’ll be others in the future, as Lajeunesse explains, “for the cost of one year’s flooring rental, we can build it ourselves and then we’ll have it to use for years to come.” culinairemagazine.ca • 21
They start feeding the people building the site five days before the festival opens; 40 at the beginning growing to 150 before the start of the festival and then the 200 strong food service volunteers really crank up the action to feed 1600 volunteers over 67 crews for four days. Volunteers are split over 12 departments: Site building • Hot entrée • Cold Food Beverages • Service • Snack Bar Pot Washing • Plate Washing • Laundry Harvest • Stores • Artist food lounge Meals are from 11:30am to 2:30pm, and 4:30pm to 7:30pm. Altogether, they’ll serve 1,000-1,400 on the Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday leading up to the festival, 1,100 meals on the Thursday evening, 1,350 Friday evening, 1,000
for Saturday and Sunday lunch and a further 1,300 Saturday and Sunday dinnertimes. They have 9,500 plates and they still run out! Where does all the food come from? It’s part donation, part sponsorship and part purchased. The Harvest department barter with Blue Mountain Biodynamics in Carstairs, where volunteers will help for three days, and camp on the site. They produce crops such as cereals and legumes, vegetables and herbs, in addition to raising poultry, dairy goats and hogs. Sunnyside Market is also a solid supporter and supplies much of the food. Ship & Anchor kick off the hot meal sponsored evenings on Thursday; last year it was a rich and flavourful chicken
stew with a vegetable stew alternative. Second To None Catering sponsor the Friday night, providing curried beef beer stew made on site with top sirloin Galloway beef, or tofu beer stew as a veggie option. On the Saturday, it’s a Spolumbo’s sausage lunch with a vegetable sausage alternative. Saturday night last year was “Guillon Beef” from Slow Food; top sirloin Swiss steak cooked so there’s no medium rare, it’s all well done, and portabella mushroom for the vegetarian choice. Plus there’s always a selection of four salads with more fixings and toppings than you can shake a stick at. Sunday is a favourite day for the volunteers, it’s drumette day with a falafel vegetable option. These are Winters Turkey drumsticks marinated in soy sauce, with balsamic and apple cider vinegars, lemon juice, garlic and onion. Yum! The tempting smell of roast turkey pervades Eau Claire and downtown from midnight Saturday, when they’re
popped in the ovens to slow roast, till 6:00am Sunday morning. The drumsticks end up with crispy skin and a rich sauce, a lovely combination of deep soy flavour and acid from the vinegars, all propped up by onion and garlic. Vast quantities of Sunday lasagne is made by teachers, through the food preparation department at Lord Beaverbrook School headed up by Murray Lipsey. This team treats the volunteers to homemade breads too, such as banana, rhubarb etc. The artists at Calgary Folk Festival want to eat this food; it’s so good, and even has them spreading the word about the way the Festival treats their volunteers, and the extent they go to. The organizers book bands just for the volunteer area, for their own stage in the dining room. It’s true when they say the best outdoor patio in the city is the volunteer dining room, and no surprise that 75% of the volunteers will return.
And after all the activity and hard work of the festival, everything is gone in three days. Lajeunesse picks up every last piece of garbage himself after all is done.
209-10th St NW | 403-283-8988 | www.verobistro.ca
Riding A Wave Of Success
Story and photographs by Cory Knibutat
Making a name for yourself and crafting an identifiable brand in Calgary’s ultracompetitive restaurant business is a hurdle faced by all new and experienced restaurateurs in this city. In the heart of the new west, most restaurants must feature, by unofficial law, at least one beef option but when you’re one of a handful of highly regarded seafood restaurants, you have the chance to make your own rules. Blending a mix of the classics and contemporary, Big Fish in Bridgeland, has carved its own niche as a seafood restaurant that may bait you with classics such as their seafood chowder or fish tacos but will reel you in with their premium oyster selection or fanfavourite lamb and lobster burger, recently made famous once it aired on Food Network Canada’s show You Gotta Eat Here, earlier this spring.
“We’ve doubled our lamb usage since the show and then it’s spilled into the rest of the menu as well, it’s been really great,” said Dwayne Ennest, Executive Chef and co-owner with his wife, Alberta. “ We’ve had people come more than once since the show and they try different things so it’s been really good.” “The kitchen has been working really, really hard just to keep up,” said Alberta. “Basically you have to make everything all over again everyday. You sell everything you have.” “They said we were going to get busier and we were like, ‘Oh yeah, yeah’,” Alberta added. “I didn’t think people were going to get in their car and drive
here within 20 minutes of the show airing. I had no idea. Seriously.” Before the airing of the episode, Big Fish was humming along with steady business due in large part to busy dinner services and a loyal customer base than seeks out great seafood, which in Calgary, can be tricky. “We really work on value so people can come here and noticeably spend less money,” says Alberta. “There’s lots of people doing some things similar to what we do but we like to think we’re doing it a little bit better in our own style,” Dwayne said. “We’re ten minutes away from downtown so lunches can be a bit of a struggle,” Dwayne added. “It’s a destination, it’s not like we get a lot of walking traffic. Dinner time has always been easier, you know, Calgarians don’t have a problem with a destination restaurant as long as they know it’s going to be good.” Big Fish was busy from the start, opening its doors in early 2004, winning over hungry clientele who sought out more traditional dishes at first before exploring the rest of the menu. “The philosophy and the way it’s (the menu) have been laid out has been pretty much the same since we started,” said Dwayne. “We try to use things as local as possible with Ocean Wise and whatnot but the walleye and the arctic char stayed right from the beginning. Crab cakes, chowder, lots of it are just mainstays.” For as many of the mainstays featured, there’s easily the same number of things
that aren’t. Sturgeon, frog’s legs, house smoked oysters and cured trout paté, to name a few. You can play it safe or be as adventurous as you desire, Big Fish is more than happy to accommodate. “I think things like the frogs legs, they’re not the biggest seller by any means but people who try them and know what they are, love them,” Dwayne said. “We had a little girl today order them at lunch and she’s like, ‘I think I’m going to try them!’ You could tell in her voice that she had never had them before but she was willing to, and she loved them.” “It’s always surprising when somebody orders them and they don’t know what to expect, and they don’t know if they’re going to like them, and they do and that’s always fun,” Alberta added. Along with more adventurous eaters, customers are noticeably more aware of sourcing and supporting restaurants who support local suppliers as well, a now given among most restaurants. In a land-locked province, having fresh product means having great suppliers; a relationship Dwayne and Alberta worked to build years ago through a number of other restaurant ventures. Dwayne and Alberta have known each other for 17 years, since both worked in the early days of River Café. Twelve years ago they opened their first business
together, a comfort food institution in this city, you may have heard of: Diner Deluxe. After a couple of hugely successful years, Urban Bakery was opened next door, due in large part to a need for space as the kitchen and prep areas at the time were severely limited for a diner consistently pulling in 400 covers a day. By 2004 Dwayne and Alberta also owned Piato, a Greek restaurant at the time, now Open Range, just up the road from Diner Deluxe. Similar to their experience with the bakery, they took over the neighbouring business space. “There was a business next to us that did a midnight move and at the time we had an idea for a really streetwise sort of oyster bar and seafood restaurant that would fit in Calgary,” Dwayne said. “We liked the fact that because we had the diner and the bakery and this all in the same street it was actually, operationswise, really good, because you could be anywhere in five minutes.” Dwayne added: “We’re lucky that we’ve had the same suppliers since back to the River (Café) days and we share storage space so really, we keep the seafood over here but everything else we share.” Having sold Diner Deluxe and Urban Bakery two years ago, Dwayne and
There’s a fabulous prize waiting at Big Fish for the winner of our special competition! You’ll enjoy your own private oyster shucking lesson with Chef Andrew Tsang and then dinner for two afterwards! (dinner valued at $100) We want to hear your experience of the first time you had a raw oyster. Where it was? Who were you with? Who talked you into it? Go to culinairemagazine.ca and let us know about your first oyster experience, to be entered in the competition. We can’t wait to hear from you!
Alberta have been able to focus much more energy on Big Fish and feel the added attention garnered from their recent television debut isn’t anything that they can’t handle at this stage of their careers. “We’ve pretty much got it sorted at this point in time but in the early years of when the diner was explosively busy, we were so over our head because we had never done anything like that before,” Alberta said. “It’s actually nice coming at this point in our life span because we’re ready. Everyone’s trained. Everybody knows what they’re doing and I thought we really took it in our stride.” Now, in perfect rhythm, Dwayne and Alberta have found their groove at Big Fish with their future goals not being to be spread too thin, as they were in years past, but to continue to deliver the same beautiful food that has earned them such loyal customers. “This business is gruelling but we have an exit strategy,” Dwayne said. “As much as you can have in this business, I suppose. But we still enjoy it and we do a lot. We haven’t lost that passion so I think the day I lose the passion for it is the day I’ll do something else.” Having worked in restaurants since he was 14, Cory translated his passion for food into his journalistic ambitions, not critiquing but meeting the people who make it and finding out what inspires them.
Green Curry Mussels Serves 2-4 2 tsp (10 mL) Thai green curry paste 1 cup (240 mL) heavy whipping cream ½ cup (120 mL) apple juice 1 Tbs (15mL) olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 450 g mussels ½ cup (120 mL) white wine* *chef’s tip: don’t cook with any wine you wouldn’t drink!
1. Mix curry paste with cream and apple juice until blended.
2. Heat a large skillet and sauté the minced garlic in olive oil for 30 seconds. Add the mussels and stir over high heat for 1 minute. Add the wine, followed by the cream, and then cover the skillet cooking on high heat for 2-3 minutes.
Fish Tacos 140 g white fish cubed (tilapia, halibut, walleye or snapper) 1 Tbs (15 mL) favourite chili rub 1 pinch sea salt 1 tsp (5 mL) olive oil 2 Jalapeños, roasted and julienned Butter Lettuce, shredded 1 pack of soft corn tortillas
1. Heat olive oil in frying pan, add fish and sauté till cooked trough or about 3 mins, season with chili powder. Let stand.
2. Warm corn tortillas and lay out on a plate
3. Divide the fish between all tortillas 4. Top with roasted chilies, lettuce and 1 tsp of salsa and guacamole on each (recipes below). Garnish with roasted jalapeño slices and serve.
3. Remove the lid and reduce for 1 minute, adding salt and pepper to taste. Serve with toasted bread.
Guacamole 1/2 medium red onion, diced 3 avocados, diced 1/3 cup (80 mL) lime juice 1/2 tsp chili rub 1/2 tsp Greek spice 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1 tsp (5 mL) cilantro, chopped Pulse into a chunky paste in a food processor
Roasted Corn Sundried Tomato Salsa 4 corn cobs 1 cup (240 mL) sundried tomatoes 1 large red onion 2 Tbs (30 mL) lime juice 2 Tbs (30 mL) cilantro, chopped 1 English cucumber 3 Jalapenos, roasted 1 Tbs (15mL) coarse sea salt
2. Soak sundried tomatoes in warm water till soft, then drain and dice
3. Dice English cucumber, jalapeno and red onion fine
4. Combine all ingredients and let stand 30 minutes.
1. Blanche corn in salted boiling water for 2 minutes, then grill. Shave corn kernels off of cob culinairemagazine.ca • 27
12 Smart Seafood Choices By Dan Clapson and Gabriel Hall
Seafood is always a beautiful thing and, perhaps, even more so in the summer. The thought of freshly shucked oysters or dinners like lobster boils and cedar-planked trout can cause any seafood lover’s mouth to water. ocean conservation, and put their words into action by ensuring that all the seafood on their menus in each of their restaurants is Ocean Wise approved. In turn, they are setting the example for other local restaurants and chain restaurants to join the cause. Earls, Cactus Club, Joey’s and other chains that normally depend on bulk-sourced food have also dedicated themselves to sourcing Ocean Wise seafood, a huge commitment for chain restaurants.
While many of us love indulging in deliciousness that is found under the sea - sorry Sebastian - it’s important to know what you’re eating now and whether it’s sustainable. Sea Choice is a fantastic initiative to help determine which seafood is ideal for purchase. Grocery store chains like Calgary Co-op participate in the Sea Choice program, so if you find yourself grabbing some ingredients at one of their locations, note the stickers on their fresh seafood products. (seachoice.org for more information) Ethical responsibility doesn’t just end at home cooking, it should be important for you when dining out as well. Whether you find yourself out on the West Coast or at home in Calgary, let Ocean Wise be your guide to making smart seafood choices. Started through The Vancouver Aquarium, this program seeks to end overfishing and other poor ocean practices that are threatening all aquatic life. Business partners in the program range from retail stores and suppliers to all levels of restaurants. Alberta currently boasts 110 restaurant partners for the program with over half of that number being found right here in Calgary, not too shabby, hey? Our city, being famous for its lack of oceans, of course, has actually created some of Ocean Wise’s most passionate supporters and strongest ambassadors for the cause nationwide. Sal Howell, proprietor of River Cafe, moved early to support the Ocean Wise movement several years back and became the first Calgary restaurant partner of the program. Very quickly, other influential local chefs followed en suite; Kyle Groves of Catch, Paul Rogalski of Rouge, and Andrew Winfield of River cafe speak passionately on the topic of
Calgary’s chefs are always “first into the pool”, inspiring and educating their peers and the public on smart choices and issues which affect not just the restaurant community, but everyone at large, which for us common folk means that we can keep eating tasty, tasty seafood in the years to come. If you’re dining out for the evening or preparing a dinner at home for your family, here are 12 ideal seafood choices that are as sustainable as they are delicious! Arctic Char • Dungeness Crab Halibut (Atlantic and Pacific) Lake Trout • Pickerel • Nile Tilapia Octopus • Sablefish • Spot Prawns White Sturgeon • Razor Clams
Executive Chef Andrew Winfield’s Ocean Wise Smoked Ling Cod Cakes 1 Tbs shallots, minced 1 tsp garlic, minced 1 Tbs ginger, minced 2 Tbs red onion, julienned 1 Tbs olive oil 900 g smoked Ocean Wise lingcod, diced 1/2 cm 3/4 cup wild rice cooked 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds 1/4 cup aioli 1/2 cup breadcrumbs 1 tsp sesame oil 2 Tbs each oregano, chives and parsley chopped Salt & pepper
1. Gently smoke lingcod on a household smoker with maple chips for 15-20 min; set aside.
2. Combine the shallots, garlic and red onion and sweat slowly in the olive oil until tender. Let cool.
In today ’s busy world, you may not get a chance to pick up every issue of Culinaire. To ensure your copy, go to culinairemagazine.ca to have the next ten issues delivered right to your door. CALGARY’S FRESHEST FOOD & BEVERAGE MAGAZINE
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dredging in flour, then egg and then bread crumbs.
6. Fry in a medium to low heat pan until golden brown, flip them and brown the other side. Serve with fruit chutney and some spicy greens like arugula or watercress.
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12/20/2012 9:48:10 PM
Summer Tiramisu Story and photographs by Natalie Findlay
In summer, everyone is looking for quick and easy dessert ideas to enjoy. With the abundance of ripe, fresh fruit available; we have to take advantage of these flavours before the cold settles in again. I’ve taken the traditional tiramisu recipe and turned it into quick and delicious, super-easy summer desserts that you can adapt to each fruit as it comes into season. A tiramisu is all about the layers. Each layer is an opportunity to add or enhance the flavour or texture of your dessert. That’s the key as you take these recipes and make them your own. Tiramisu is a versatile dessert for all occasions. The flavour combinations are endless. I hope these inspire you to create something amazing for your family and friends.
Summer Berry Tiramisu 6 individual servings 200 g strawberries, sliced 200 g blueberries 200 g raspberries 375 g mascarpone 225 g sour cream 225 g whipping cream ½ cup (125 ml) mint syrup, recipe below 1 ½ oranges, zested 2 Tbs (30 ml) orange juice 2 Tbs (30 ml) Grand Marnier 1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream 2 Tbs (30 g) icing sugar angel food cake, pound cake or lady fingers
*Note: the mint syrup in this article makes a great base for refreshing summertime lemonades and ice teas (with or without alcohol).
Garnish: whipped cream, mint, berries and a drizzle of Grand Marnier
We would love to hear what exciting tiramisu combinations you try this summer. Visit our website us at www. culinairemagazine.ca to let us know!
Whip 1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream with 2 Tbs (30 g) icing sugar to soft peaks.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custommade cakes.
Whipped cream for garnish:
1. Add 1 cup (250 g) sugar and 1 1/3 cups (315 ml) water to small pot and bring to a boil.
2. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat. Add 2 Tbs (30 g) of mint, thinly chopped. Cool to room temperature or you can use straight from the fridge.
3. Whip mascarpone, sour cream and whipping cream until smooth. Add orange zest, orange juice and Grand Marnier.
4. Cut cake into pieces to fit your serving dish, enough for 2 layers.
5. Place first cake layer in the base of the dish. Add 1 Tbs (15 ml) of the mint syrup to the cake layer. Spread the mascarpone mixture on top of the cake. Top with the mixture of berries. Repeat these 4 steps for the second layer.
6. Add a dollop of whipping cream to each dessert and garnish with a sprig of mint, a few berries and a drizzle of Grand Marnier.
Cherry, Goat Cheese Tiramisu 6 individual servings 400 g cherries, pitted and roughly chopped 375 g goat cheese 2/3 cup (150 ml) whipping cream 1 vanilla bean ¾ cup (180 ml) balsamic vinegar ¾ cup (180 ml) port 12 – 18 chocolate wafers Garnish: whipped cream, a cherry and a sprig of mint
The layering process is the same as the berry tiramisu.
1 - Chocolate wafers 2 – port 3 – goat cheese mixture 4 – cherries 5 – balsamic, and repeat
1. Whip the goat cheese, whipping cream, vanilla bean, together until smooth.
2.Drizzle the balsamic vinegar on top of each layer of cherries.
Summer Coffee Tiramisu 6 individual servings Now for all those who really love the original flavours of the tiramisu; here’s a lighter version for summer. This recipe is so quick and easy you can complete it while everyone else is putting the dishes away.
12 – 18 chocolate wafers ¾ cup (180 ml) coffee (option: can also add amaretto ¾ cup (180 g) 360 g dulce de leche 500 g raspberries 2 x 6 small scoops of chocolate ice cream Garnish: whipped cream, chocolate shavings, mint and a raspberry This is a cold dessert, so make the coffee beforehand and refrigerate before starting to layer the ingredients.
1. Layer chocolate wafers on the bottom of serving dish. Add cold coffee. Spread 4 tsp (20 g) of dulce de leche on wafers and add raspberries. Top with a scoop of chocolate ice cream.
2. Repeat these steps for the second layer. Dollop some whipped cream on top and shaved chocolate, top with a raspberry and sprig of mint and serve. culinairemagazine.ca • 31
The 19Th Hole:
It’s A Tradition By Jocelyn Burgener
The old adage “The more things change, the more they stay the same” definitely applies to the game of golf. You can lengthen the fairways, adjust your club head speed, even ban “anchoring the belly putter”, but after a round of golf, you’ll still probably end up sharing a drink at the 19th Hole. It’s a tradition and the game of golf is rooted in tradition.
The term was coined in 1901, by golf authority and author W.G. Van Tassel Sutphen, with the publication of his book, The Nineteenth Hole: being tales of the fair green. With the emphasis on “tales” it sounds very much like the modern golfer’s post-game analysis. When you consider a 16th century citation, one of the earliest references to the game, that a round of golf was played as a “wager for drink,” it only makes sense that the 19th Hole is a cocktail that is one part game, one park talk, and one part drink. In 2013 golfers can choose from a wide selection of both alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages to enjoy on the 19th Hole. Spencer Tapley, Food and Beverage Manager at
Inglewood Golf and Curling Club, commented that golfers are consuming less alcohol in general, yet consuming more mixed and blended drinks when they do.
Early Start: For some golfers the game starts at the 19th Hole. A favourite at Inglewood is a Vodka Paralyzer: 1/2 oz Kahlua 1/2 oz Vodka 1/2 oz Tequila 4 oz Light cream 4 1/2 oz Cola
1. Pour tequila, vodka and Kahlua over ice in a Collins glass
2. Half-fill with cola 3. Top with light cream or milk 4. Stir gently with a straw, and serve That’s one way to keep your head still.
While coffee is a traditional starter for Calgary’s chilly, early morning tee times, Bloody Caesars remain a popular starter beverage, according to Erin O’Grady, Food and Beverage Manager at the Elks Lodge and Golf Club. The cocktail was created by Calgary bartender Walter Chell and called a Caesar after the family’s Italian heritage. When a patron first tasted the cocktail his response was “that’s a bloody good Caesar!” and the name stuck. 1-2 oz of your favorite vodka Clamato juice, either regular or spicy Worcestershire sauce Tabasco sauce or similar hot sauce Celery salt Choice of garnish - celery stalk, asparagus, lime wedges Ice
1. Rim a pint glass with celery salt and fill the glass with ice
2. Add Worcestershire sauce to the count of three (three good, solid shakes)
3. Add Tabasco to taste: for heat lovers, 7-10 drops.
4. Add 1-2 ounces of vodka (or no vodka for virgin Caesar)
5. Top with Clamato juice and garnish Beer: Par for the Course It can’t improve your handicap, but sharing a pitcher at the 19th Hole
is dedicated to getting golfers checked in, and teeing off on schedule. A limited menu of hot dogs, snacks, soft drinks, and beer (of course) is available, and the 19th Hole on a city course may be as informal as a picnic table at Shaganappi Point.
after your game, is one of the oldest traditions in the sport of golf. Beer remains the beverage of choice both on the course and at the 19th Hole, according to Canyon Meadows Golf and Country Club’s General Manager, Jim Hope, with darker beers like Guinness becoming more popular with players. Sipping from the Claret Jug, the iconic trophy presented to the winner of the Open Championship, has been a tradition since 1873. So it is only fitting that red wine has also become popular after a round of golf. While ladies continue to prefer white wine after their game, men have begun choosing higher end red wines on the 19th Hole at Canyon Meadows.
Bragging rights, settling bets, and reviewing scorecards are serious business on the 19th Hole, but a Hole in One is something special. Celebrating your best ever shot can be costly when faced with the tradition of buying a round for everyone in the clubhouse. Some clubs maintain a fund, collected from all members for that lucky day. “Hole-in One Insurance” enables you to celebrate without hurting your wallet. Whatever you choose to drink, when ordering a round at the end of your round, enjoying the camaraderie of friends is the legacy of the 19th Hole, and remains as one of golf’s most cherished traditions. A former MLA, Jocelyn was Director of Public Affairs for the Calgary Chamber of Commerce and ran her own consulting business. She finds clarity in chaos and humour in everyday life.
As there are no bars or lounges on the City’s municipal courses, a well-stocked beverage cart is a welcome sight on the links. “Our priority is to keep people golfing,” says Joan Friedel, Supervisor of Club House Operations for the City of Calgary. Consequently, clubhouse space
403-265-3665 • 8th Avenue SW #223 • thelibertine.ca
A Match Made In Palate Heaven: Roy Oh and Highlighting Seafood With Asian Flavours By Dan Clapson
If utilised well, Asian flavours can spark that special something in almost any dish. Well, maybe not breakfast cereal, but nonetheless...Much like leading a great life, all that it takes to harness these exotic flavours is being able to find the perfect balance on the plate. Luckily for the hungry diners of Calgary, many talented chefs in town effectively incorporate Asian influences into their seafood dishes, and perhaps none more so than Roy Oh at his popular restaurant, Anju. Chef and owner of Anju, Roy Oh, is known well within the local food community for his Korean fusion cuisine.
Both his modern Korean take on North American cuisine and his contemporary reimagining of Asian cuisine reflects on himself as an individual; a Korean born in Canada. “I decided to open Anju because Korean foods were what I grew up eating. On a personal level, I’m proud to be Korean!” He proclaims, “I want Korean food to become as mainstream as Japanese food.”
Oh developed his fantastic palate from a young age, growing up and eating his mother’s cooking at the dinner table. “I was always eating [her] cooking, which was excellent! That really helped me to know how good food should taste. My mother had a huge influence on my style of cooking.” He continues, “She would never use a recipe, nor do I. I’m always tasting and adjusting [a dish] to
Mussels With Black Garlic Sauce
make sure the food is as I like it. I don’t have a template for creating dishes. I either take a traditional dish and make it my own with updated ingredients, or I take a non-Korean dish that I enjoy, and figure out how to put a Korean twist on it.”
Serves 4 - 6 Sauce: 1 head of black garlic peeled 1 Tbs minced ginger 1 serrano pepper, minced (deseeded if you want it less spicy) 2 Tbs sugar 2 Tbs soy 1 tsp sesame oil 1 Tbs canola oil
“At a certain point in my life, I realized that I love to have guests over and entertaining them.” He modestly adds, “I was always reasonably good at cooking, so it made sense to open a restaurant.” After running one of the busiest Joeys in Calgary, Oh opened up his own restaurant, Anju. On his menu, Oh’s current seafood dishes include a Soy-Poached sablefish, the popular Black Garlic Salt Spring Island Mussels, Spicy Rice Cakes with mixed seafood, calamari, and oysters, both raw and cooked. Oh makes a point of bringing in some of the best, sustainable seafood that is as fresh as anything you will find on the west coast. Not too shabby for our landlocked city. Take that Vancouver! One of his personal favourite dishes that he serves up, is his Korean take of a Vietnamese clay pot dish with Ocean Wise sablefish and caramel sauce. “My favourite fish [to work with] is definitely sablefish. It’s so fatty and rich, really easy to cook, it’s really flexible. I think Korean flavours are very robust, there’s a lot of spice and fermentation, so whenever you’re dealing with that combination, it’s going to be very intense.” This sablefish, along with the aforementioned flavourful seafood dishes, were just a few of the delicious reasons why Calgarian foodies flocked to Anju over the past five years. As of the end of June, Oh shut the doors of his culinary hotspot in preparation for a relocation and reopening in early 2014. “It’s definitely bittersweet. A lot of good memories here...This is where we built our reputation. It’s going to be sad to go, but moving onto a bigger and better location is really exciting for me.”
Blend all sauce ingredients till smooth. 1.75 Kg mussels 1 shallot diced 1 cup white wine green onion, chopped Sesame seeds If the steady stream of patrons over the last half-decade is any anticipation, there will likely be a line up around the block come his grand opening in 2014, and I’ll be the first in line. Since you can’t get a table at Anju for some of Oh’s signature Korean fusion tapas any time soon, he’s left us a few seafood recipes to fill the culinary void. What a guy!
1. Heat a large pot on high heat w/ canola oil. When the oil starts to smoke add shallots and mussels and stir.
2. Add white wine and black garlic sauce cover and let steam for 5 mins.
3. Garnish with green onion and sesame seeds.
Korean Kimchi Mignonette Yield: 1½ cups of mignonette The spice and briney-ness from the kimchi kick your regular oysters up a notch! 1 cup kimchi, finely chopped ½ cup rice wine vinegar 1 shallot, minced 2 tsp ground black pepper Whisk together all ingredients in a small bowl and leave in the refrigerator to chill until ready to serve. Will keep for up to 2 weeks. Visit www.culinairemagazine.ca for Roy Oh’s Sablefish With Gochugaru Caramel Glaze recipe!
Coast To Coast: An Oyster For All! By Dan Clapson
Whether it’s East Coast or West Coast, there are a lot of different types of oyster that you can - and should - learn to love. Water conditions, farming and harvesting practices all play a part in giving each oyster a unique taste. From size and shape to brininess and cucumber-like finishing notes, here are eight different varieties of the shelled delicacy to search out and test your palate with this summer.
Spice Up Your Mignonette Oysters are typically served with tabasco, horseradish, lemon wedges and a mignonette, which is a sauce made up of vinegar and shallots. Here is a basic mignonette recipe and four easy ways that you can spice it up at home... 1 cup (240 mL) good quality vinegar (white wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar, etc...) 1 shallot, minced 1 tsp (5 mL) ground black pepper Whisk together and chill until ready to serve. Try adding in... 1 tablespoon minced pickled jalapenos, for a tangy kick. 1 teaspoon of honey and 1 teaspoon of sriracha for a sweet and spicy flavour. 1 tablespoon minced cucumber for a cool, summery taste. 1 shot of vodka. Boozy oysters! Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist based out of Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely spending his time listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands like 98 Degrees. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside!
West Coast: George Inlet: Found on Cortes Island, this oyster is readily available year round. It is meaty and rich with a subtle metallic taste to it. Kusshi: While these oysters are being farmed, they are tumbled repeatedly, resulting in thick, deep (dare we say beautiful?) shells. Still smaller in size once shucked, their outer shells have a relatively smooth surface with black and purple hues. Nootka Sound: Harvested in a very remote location on the far west coast of Vancouver Island, this plump variety must make quite the trek to get to civilization (i.e. us). A true oyster lover will be able to find spicy and cucumber finishing notes with this one. Fanny Bay: One of the most popular oysters across Canada, mostly due to its wide availability. If you’ve only tried an oyster once in your life, it was probably this one. The lip of the shells have a distinct waviness.
East Coast: Beausoleil: Great as a beginner oyster for people who have not quite yet discovered a love for the half shell. They are smaller in size, with a smoother shell, not too briney, creamy and have a mild aroma. Consider them the ‘Goldilocks’ of the oyster world. Just right. St. Simons: These small, brown shell oysters are very mild in taste, making them an even better ‘starter’ half shell for folks that are inexperienced or a bit squeamish. Malpeque: Millions of this popular Prince Edward Island oyster are harvested each year. These meaty guys have a sweet, pickle-y flavour to them. If you’re attempting to learn to shuck, their flat top makes them easy to open. Raspberry Point: A mid-sized oyster that also grows off the shores of Prince Edward Island. It is quite briney and more rounded in shape that the aforementioned malpeques. Cold water makes them slow growers, taking sometimes up to 7 years to reach maturity.
FRESH EVERYTHING. There's always something new to discover at the market. Come visit us this summer or check out CalgaryFarmersMarket.ca THURSDAY – SUNDAY b 9AM – 5PM b 510 77TH AVE SE 1067409_AD_Culinaire_7.625x3.125.indd 1
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Grilled Desserts Story and photographs by Stephanie Arsenault
Sure, grilling isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when you’re thinking about summer desserts (often these thoughts involve fresh fruit pies, gelato, and the ever present s’more), but believe it or not, it’s one of the easiest, tastiest options out there.
Grilling nearly anything adds a smoky flavour and tell-tale crunch of something cooked on a barbecue or over a campfire. Both features are synonymous with summer, and are a special, unexpected treat when applied to dessert. Fruit, in particular, cooks especially well. Naturally, we all want to hit up the local farmer’s market and grab a few baskets of cherries, handfuls of berries, and bags of peaches and eat them right away. This is normal. But think of the flavours of those fruits when they’re cooked! They’re sweeter, more intense, and just a little bit juicier; that’s what separates
Honey Grilled Stone Fruit Skewers Serves 4 4 small peaches, quartered and stones discarded 4 plums, quartered and stones discarded 4 apricots, halved and stones discarded 1 Tbs (15 ml) butter, melted 1 tsp (5 ml) honey, plus more for serving ½ cup (120 ml) whipping cream 4 large basil leaves, finely chopped
1. Preheat grill, reduce heat to medium. 2. Soak 4 wooden skewers in hot water for at least 10 minutes. Afterward, thread the fruit onto the skewers evenly as desired.
3. In a small bowl, mix the butter and honey together; brush the mixture on to the fruit, and then place on the preheated grill. Cook for about 10 minutes, rotating the skewers a few times, until the fruit is tender and juices begin coming out of them. Transfer to a serving dish.
4. Next, whip the cream until soft peaks form; stir in honey to taste. To serve, drizzle the fruit skewers with a little bit of honey, sprinkle with chopped basil, and top with whipped cream; serve immediately.
regular fruit from a fruit dessert: it’s the cooking. You can bake them in tarts, stew them and spoon them over a whipped cream-laden shortcake, but grilling offers a unique change to the everyday. • Try soaking pineapple slices in rum and brown sugar and then grilling them until they’re nice and caramelized. • Grill slices of watermelon and garnish with lime juice and fresh mint. • Core an apple, fill the centre with a mixture of cinnamon, sugar, and bourbon, wrap it up tightly in tinfoil, and
Grilled Sweet Challah with Stewed Berries Serves 4 8 thick slices of challah (brioche, or another rich, slightly sweet bread can be substituted) Butter, softened 3 tsp (15 ml) sugar, divided 4 cups (1 L) mixed berries (raspberries, blackberries, blueberries) 1 tsp (5 ml) cornstarch ½ tsp (2.5 ml) pure vanilla extract
1. Preheat grill and reduce to medium heat. Generously butter both sides of the sliced bread, and sprinkle with 1 tsp of sugar; set aside.
2. In a cast-iron pan, or deep aluminum grilling dish, combine the mixed berries with remaining 2 tsp sugar, cornstarch, and vanilla extract. Place on the preheated grill, cover, and cook until berries begin to break down and the mixture beings to thicken, about 10 minutes; remove from grill.
3. Place prepared slices of bread on the preheated grill and cook for 1-2 minutes on each side, or until dark brown grill marks appear and the bread is nicely toasted. Transfer two slices of bread to each serving dish, and spoon the stewed berries over top; serve immediately.
then cook for about 20 minutes, or until the apple is tender. • Top any of these tasty treats with a nice heap of sweetened whipped cream or your favourite ice cream and you’ll have yourself an easy grilled dessert. For a more delectable option, try one of the recipes, below. Stephanie Arsenault is a food and travel writer and photographer based out of Calgary. She’s a lover of baked goods and beer, and never leaves home without a camera. Follow her on Twitter at @ globaldish.
White Rhone Blends:
World Over, Their Sums Are Greater Than Their Parts By Adrian Bryksa
As the weather warms, wine lovers descend on their local markets in search of wines that will perfectly quench the palate but still stand out on the patio with light summer fare.
During this time retailers stock up on pinot grigio from Italy, rosés from France and Spain, rich chardonnays and crisp sauvignon blanc from locales such as Marlborough and Sonoma. More often than not, however, consumers forget about white Rhône varietals, which are now expressed in virtually every corner of the wine globe. While the Rhône region of France primarily gained recognition for its red wines, the region has been producing both white and red wines of quality since the time of the Romans. The red wines are firmly entrenched in the spotlight bolstered by such classics as Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and it is the region’s white varietals that have quietly gained a following, not just within the Rhône itself, but around the world. While there are exceptional examples of single-varietal Rhône whites such as marsanne and viognier, the skillful blending of these varietals allows individual constituents to shine, resulting in wines with a sum greater than its parts. Whether it be uplifting a finished wine’s acidity or incorporating small amounts of a varietal to add fruitiness, complexity or depth, winemakers blend to better express the style of the wine they want to produce. In areas like the Cotes du Rhône for example, there are rules as dictated
Wine Picks by the A.O.C. or Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée that dictate which varietals can be main constituents to a blended wine and which ones must be minor in terms of total amount used within the blend. While the Rhône is home for these varietals, adventurous winemakers have taken them around the globe and have found certain terroirs suitable for producing examples of substance and character. Viognier - produces smooth, full bodied, floral tinged wines. Phenomenal on its own from vineyard sites such as Condrieu, and is often seen as a blending partner for marsanne. Marsanne - hardy, capable grape that when properly cared for produces wines of elegance and length. Expressing floral and nutty attributes, marsanne often appears as a blending partner with viognier. Rousanne - a delicate varietal that requires the right conditions to produce wines of elegance and persistence. It can bring characters of honey, herbal tea and can be used to bring acidity to a blend. Clairette - generally produces wines of high alcohol and low acid, making it an excellent base wine for a blend with a partner or partners whose acid can uplift it. Always relevant and never compromising, Adrian’s poignant observations and astute questions strive to answer the mythical query “What makes life taste good?” He is one of the voices behind yycwine.com
M. Chapoutier 2011 Bila Haut Blanc Côtes de Roussillon, France A blend of grenache blanc, grenache gris and macabeo. The palate carries a kiss of sugar with white and yellow stone fruit characters. Overall, it’s supple and round with just enough acid to maintain the refreshing, sippable quality. This one is hard not to really like, especially for the price. $15.
Ogier 2011 Heritages Blanc, Cotes du Rhône, France The Heritage is a blend of grenache blanc, clairette, bourboulenc, rousanne and viognier and the bouquet is dominated by floral characters of acacia flowers and lighter notes of apricot and grapefruit. It has wonderful fluidity on the palate, moving with balance from its light, acid-tinged attack to a clean finish. Drink now. $16
Dobbes Family Estate 2011 Viognier, Rogue Valley, Oregon Out of the bottle, this wine is light and airy in the glass with notes of lychee, confectioners’ sugar and peach. It has wonderfully uplifting levels of acid and finishes brightly over its long finish. Only 1,020 cases of this vintage were produced, so act quickly if you want your allocation. $28
Hope Family Wines Treana 2010 Central Coast, California The 2010 Treana is a blend of 50% viognier and 50% marsanne. Barrel fermented, the bouquet shows notes of spiced honey, dried apricot and mango. It caresses the palate with its richly textured characters of dried fruit, spice and oak. The initial sensations of honey and spice linger on its lengthy finish. This is a full-bodied and complex expression that can be cellared or enjoyed now. $38
Tahbilk 1927 Vines 2003 Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes, Australia Sourced from some of the oldest known marsanne vines, dating back to 1927. Light notes of oily citronella with a laserlike beam of acidity carry this intriguing, wonderfully light and elegant wine. The slightly nutty finish goes on for an eternity, and while this wine is 10 years old, it feels as though it is only a youth in its liveliness. $41
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Soup Kitchen By CHEF Thierry Meret
The word matelote refers to a dish that is prepared in the cooking style of a seaman. Matelote is the origin of some of the first “restaurants” in France after Louis XIV had a private affair with Madame Guillotine in the late 1800s. No, the king didn’t survive.
La Matelote was also a place to meet, to love and to share stories. Like beer is to a pub, wine is to Les Matelotes, and they were enjoyed with some simple wine that never had chance to age due to the new Art de vivre…
Cod “Matelote” Serves 2
red wine. Quickly bring to a simmer (not a boil!) and add the chicken stock.
Vive la république!
7. Pour this Matelote liquid over the vegetables in the pot and
2 Tbs. (30 g) olive oil 1 (200 g) small fresh cod fillet, cut in pieces 1 medium onion, peeled, cored and thinly sliced 2 sweet peppers, assorted colours, washed, seeded and thinly sliced 1 small zucchini, washed, cut in quarter lengthwise and thinly sliced 1 tsp black pepper, ground (or smoked for a twist) 2 tsp coarse sea salt Flour for dredging 2 Tbs (5 g) oregano leaves 1 cup (250 ml) red wine, light to medium body 1 cup (250 ml) chicken stock 1 cup (150 g) baby potatoes, boiled and cut in half 1 Tbs (20 g) roasted garlic 1 beer (for the chef only!)
1. Place 1/2 the oil in a saucepan on medium heat. 2. Dry fish with paper towel and season with 1/2 the salt and 1/2 the pepper, pressing well into the fish. Dredge in a little flour and shake lightly so you don’t lose the salt and pepper from the fish. 3. Place the fillets gently in the hot oil and brown on both sides turning only ONCE! 2 minutes max. Do not burn salt and pepper. Remove the fish and reserve until needed.
4. Place the saucepan back on the heat and add the remaining olive oil; add onion, sweet peppers and zucchini. Season with the remaining salt and pepper, and cook on medium heat for 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally. 5. Add the baby potatoes, roasted garlic and oregano leaves. Mix and transfer the vegetables to a ceramic or heatproof pot with a lid.
6. Place the empty saucepan back on the heat and add the
place the fish in the middle (not completely submerged - 3/4 high only), cover with the lid and place into a preheated 360° F oven for about 15 minutes until the cod starts to fall apart when pressed with a fork.
8. Serve immediately with garlic bread Chef’s tip: Coarse sea salt is fantastic for this recipe! It dissolves very slowly which truly benefits the aromas of the dish. Chef Thierry Meret’s understanding of simple seasonal ingredients and classic French culinary techniques have earned him international recognition. His Interactive Culinary Centre opened late 2012, see www.cuisineandchateau.com
1. Place the oil in a deep saucepan on medium heat. Add the shrimp shells and mix to lightly roast. The shells will turn red. 2. Add the vegetables and season with salt and pepper. Cook for another 3-5 minutes. 3. Add the tomato paste and mix well to roast (using a wooden spoon), stirring occasionally to prevent from scorching the pot. Add the brandy (optional), the wine and bring to a simmer. 4. Add some cold water, enough to cover the shells, bay leaf and herbs. Simmer for about 20 minutes or until the shells are very soft. 5. Place the shrimp broth (with shells) in a liquidizer and pulse to crush the shells to a coarse paste. Strain the broth through a fine sieve and press to extract all flavour from the purée. Reserve the broth and discard the crushed shells. Soup: 1 recipe shrimp broth ½ cup (250 g) green lentils, washed, soaked in water for 1 hour, drained 1 bay leave 2 tsp (5 g) sea salt 3 sprigs of fresh herbs (eg. oregano and thyme) 2 cups small seafood medley - octopus, shrimps, scallops, clams and mussels 3 cups baby arugula salad
The ocean brings its treasure to beach markets, where this seafood feast is paired with green lentils, wilted arugula and shrimp essence. You won’t regret it! Bouillabaisse Beach Serves 2-3 Shrimp broth: 1 Tbs (15 ml) olive oil 2 cups (500 ml) shrimp shells 1 cup (200 g) mix vegetables 1 Tbs (15 ml) tomato paste 1 oz (30 ml) brandy (optional) ½ cup (125ml) white wine 2 sprigs of fresh herbs 1 bay leaf To cover the shells water 2 tsp (5 g) sea salt 1 tsp crushed black pepper
1. Place the soaked lentils in a large saucepan with the water and all other ingredients. Bring to a quick boil, turn down the heat and simmer until the lentils are cooked, but still firm to the bite. 2. Drain and quickly rinse the lentils under cold water to stop cooking. Do not soak the cooked lentils in water after they are cooled. Remove the herbs and bay leaf, reserve until needed 3. In a soup pan, reheat the shrimp broth and add the lentils. Gently simmer on medium heat for 5-7 minutes. 4. Add the defrosted and strained seafood medley. Stir gently for about one minute then add the arugula. Cover and set aside for 3-5 minutes. 5. Pour on a plate and garnish with a few raw arugula greens and drizzles of fresh herb oil (see chef’s tip). Chef’s tip: You can easily make a herb oil by blanching two handfuls of your favourite herbs for a few seconds in salted boiling water. Strain, refresh the herbs, and squeeze them dry. Place into a liquidizer along with ½ cup olive oil and ½ squeeze of lemon juice. Blend on high speed until smooth. Keep refrigerated.
Food To Go Story and photographs by Natalie Findlay
I was enjoying an evening stroll through one of our beautiful Calgary parks last weekend and was overjoyed to see the number of families and friends who had taken to the park to enjoy their feast. There was a family - mom carrying the picnic basket; the little boy, his lacrosse sticks; the daughter with the soccer ball, and dad toting the grill under one arm and a container of shrimps on skewers under the other. The joys of summer and real “food to go.” The definition of picnic is when a packed meal is eaten outdoors; mostly cold except for a barbeque. Once reserved for only the wealthy hunters and owners of grand estates; we are all able to enjoy a spot in a park, by a lake, on the top of a mountain or under the tree in your back yard. Summertime is short, so take advantage of the beauty around us. Here’s a guide on how to put together your next outdoor food gathering. Whether camping or going down to the park for dinner, we all want an easy and 44 • July/August 2013
delicious menu that we can share and enjoy. • First, ditch the junk food. While I’m not going to comment on what you eat while watching a movie on Friday night, the outdoors and junk food don’t really fit together. • Now I’m not saying it’s all greens. There are many bakeries that make delicious pies, fresh berry crisps and cookies that will fit into your dessert selection along with a plethora of the sweet, ripe fruits
that beg to be enjoyed over the summer months. If you have a freezer pack, ice cream is always a crowd pleaser. Plus, who wants greasy chip fingers when the touch football game is on the line? • The key to a successful green salad is to separate the dressing from the base ingredients. Best is to layer the ingredients in your container. Items like tomatoes and cucumbers (heavy and watery) go on the bottom. Celery and carrots can go on the next layer, and the greens on top.
• Salads like pasta, potato or quinoa can be combined, as usually you want the flavours to meld together. Turn any one of these into a Greek salad by adding tomatoes, cucumber, feta and olives with a lemon oregano vinaigrette, to make a delicious side.
ceviche recipe that will “cook” while you travel.
4. Garbage - what you pack in, you pack out, unless there are garbage facilities.
Tips for packing up: 1. Keep it simple - choose ready-toserve items to avoid too much work on site.
• If you are going to make sandwiches, the best thing to do is to layer the middles (the yummy stuff ) between your lettuce and wrap separately to the bread. Once you get to your destination just slip it between your bread and tada! A delicious, non-soggy sandwich.
2. Chill - make sure items to be kept cool are refrigerated before packing on ice as they will stay cold much longer.
5. Tableware - with all the beautiful enamelware available, there is no need to go with the old paper and plastic plates. The environment, which is what you are going to enjoy, will thank you.
3. Be prepared - draw up a list of all the items you need to bring. This is the last place you want to find out that your beer isn’t a screw cap.
You might not think that seafood is a great picnic option but here is a savory
6. Order - pack items in your cooler in the order that you plan to use them. Note: keep an impromptu picnic pack in your car or by your front door, so you will be set when the outdoor mood strikes.
Lime Coconut Avocado Ceviche Serves 4
3/4 cup (175) ml lime juice, freshly squeezed 90 g coconut milk, do not shake container, reserve the liquid and use the coconut paste 1 Thai red chili, thinly sliced 200 g smallish shrimp, deveined, tail removed and halved 200 g tilapia, cut into small dice (or other firm white fish) 200 g scallops, ligament removed and cut in quarters 1 red pepper, diced 1 avocado, cut into cubes ½ cup (125 g) corn kernels, cooked 2 tsp (10 g) cilantro salt to taste
Choose the freshest seafood, preferably bought the morning you are going to make the ceviche.
1. Stir to combine the thick coconut
paste that has settled in the container with the lime juice and chili pepper.
2. Add the shrimp, scallops, and halibut
to the lime mixture and let sit for 2 to 4 hours, stirring occasionally.
3. Add the red pepper, avocado, corn,
salt and cilantro just before serving.
4. Serve with tortilla chips.
* Note: the citric acid in the lime alters the protein structure of the seafood rendering it more opaque and firm, the same as when heated. Make sure to keep the ceviche cold throughout your travel and consume fairly quickly - which I’m sure won’t be a problem.
It’s All In How You Rub It and Sauce It By Fred Malley
Throw in a great sauce or mop, and BBQ is sublime. Calgary boasts a few purveyors of fine true BBQ and it is sensory overload indulging. The chefs and owners are an affable lot, but guarded. When ingredient conversations come up, all get a faraway look, followed by deep thought and then silence. You see, it’s the spice rub combination and the sauce together that differentiate them and all treat it like the Colonel’s secret recipe.
The common thread among them is an eclectic approach to BBQ. All combine elements of heady Kansas City, and the more subtle Memphis and Carolina styles. Bookers Crab Shack and Big D’s use robust hickory, while Big T’s has a ready Okanagan source of delicate apple wood. The heart of the operations is the smoke oven, with the temperature set low to create slow BBQ. Their sauces are not overly sweet either, unlike many commercial brands. Bookers’ BBQ maestro is Mason Baker and he characterizes the profile Southern/Louisiana; their aim is to be consistent and perfect. The smoker is affectionately named Bonnie (she holds sixty racks of ribs and twelve briskets at a time) and opening the door makes make one drool. Mason’s divulged secret for perfect brisket is simple - BBQ low and slow about 12 hours but use the thermometer to verify an internal temperature of 91° C (195° F). Give your butcher ample notice to get
you a brisket, with lots of fat, for juicy, succulent results. The rub melds with the fat to create a great bark or crust on the meat. Common elements in their rubs are paprika, pepper, salt and a touch of sugar. The three house made sauces are a sweet, sticky, peppery Kansas City, a light mustard Carolina with a hint of apple and cider, and thick full-bodied Maple Bourbon with charred onion and a bottle of Jim Beam in each batch. They make their own pastrami, Andouille and you have to try the alligator sausage. Derek Davis owns and operates Big D’s at the Calgary Farmer’s Market. He is larger than life, with a ready smile as he greets the long line up. He keeps five Cook Shack smokers turning out brisket, pork and beef ribs and pulled pork. His secret to a fabulous brisket is 24 hours of marinating before 17 hours in the smoker. No paprika; black pepper is his rub base. Alas, he has no time to make his own sauces, but the crunchy deli slaw, creamy potato salad and not
too sweet corn bread are great sides to melt-in-the-mouth brisket; and you have to try the St. Louis ribs or a crusty beef rib with dark and rich baked beans or smoked brisket chili. Nikki Bond was featured in April on Food Network Canada’s You Gotta Eat Here. She started Big T’s along with her mother in 2004 by McMahon stadium. They operate a concession across from Nashville North during the Stampede. Nikki grew up in the restaurant business with both mother and father each owning establishments here and in BC. Nikki and Ryan now own the popular eatery that features the original formulations, some with a Texas twist. Bill runs the kitchen where the Southern Pride smoker runs 24/7. It BBQ’s 300 kg (650 lbs.) at a time; ribs, chicken, twelve briskets, and pork butts that slow cook for 20 hours. They make their own sauces - a full bodied Maple Bourbon with caramelized onions, a tart Carolina mustard, a thick, chunky tomato Smokin’
Hot (wicked) and the mild, flavourful Big T’s original. Each meat gets its own dry rub. Brisket predominates with paprika, chili powder, brown sugar and garlic, plus many more elements. The pork butt has a paprika base with mustard and the ribs have a different one too. When you go, you have to order the awesome Burgoo soup, a Kentucky style combination of brisket, lamb and chicken in a spicy chunky tomato sauce that warms the heart. You can’t stop eating it. You may have gathered that BBQ is not about a gas grill, but an oven that is ideally wood and charcoal fired. You cannot fake the taste of the real thing. Rubs are the key to great tasting BBQ and you can use dry or wet rubs. Some chefs prefer to coat the outside of the meat with prepared mustard before applying the rub liberally. The simplest
rub you can make is basic Texas: equal parts of salt, black pepper and paprika. You can jazz it up with many different herbs and spices to suit your own preferences in taste. No one would divulge a full recipe so I have dug into my own files for a couple of examples to start you on the journey. Remember, you can combine many elements in a rub or sauce. Just start simply and add small amounts of different flavours until you find a combination that suits you. Don’t use sugar in a rub for meats you grill - it will burn. Fred currently validates Individual Learning Modules for Alberta Apprenticeship, for the trade of Cook. Chair of the Canadian Culinary Institute for five year (the body that certifies Chefs de Cuisine (CCC), Fred actively mentors and examines chefs across Canada.
Kansas City Style BBQ Sauce 10 mL (2 tsp) oil 60 mL (¼ cup) minced onion 2 garlic cloves, minced 5 mL (1 tsp) chili powder 5 mL (1 tsp) paprika 5 mL (1 tsp) chile pepper, minced pinch allspice or cloves 120 mL (½ cup) ketchup 100 mL (3 ½ oz) whiskey or dark rum or 225 mL (1 cup) medium to dark beer 30 mL (2 Tbs) cider vinegar 15 mL (1 Tbs) dark molasses 60 mL (¼ cup) maple syrup ¼ citrus fruit zest and juice 2.5 mL (½tsp) salt 2.5 mL (½ tsp) soy sauce 2.5 mL (½ tsp) Worcestershire 2.5 mL (½ tsp) dry mustard 2 mL (¼ tsp) black pepper
Al-Purpose Rub Enough for 8 sides of ribs.
1. Heat the oil over medium heat and add the onions. Fry until light golden and add the garlic, chili powder, paprika, chile pepper and allspice. Fry lightly for 1 minute and add the remaining ingredients.
2. Simmer gently to reduce to desired thickness, about 15 minutes (more for beer). Use warm as a baste or dip. You can add a bit of liquid smoke, smoked salt or paprika if you wish. I used a peaty scotch.
225 mL (1 cup) cane/brown sugar 110 mL (½ cup) seasoning salt 15 mL (1 Tbs) garlic powder 55 mL (¼ cup) celery salt 30 mL (2 Tbs) onion powder 50 mL (3 Tbs) chili powder 110 mL (½ cup) paprika 30 mL (2 Tbs) black pepper 15 mL (1 Tbs) lemon pepper 10 mL (2 tsp) ground sage 10 mL (2 tsp) dry mustard 3 mL (½ tsp) ground thyme 3 mL (½ tsp) cayenne 30 mL (2 Tbs) smoked paprika-optional Mix together and press through a sieve to remove any lumps. Sprinkle generously on meat after you pat it dry.
It’s A Herbal World By Leonard Brown
Since ancient civilizations, herbs have had multitudes of uses, both inside and outside the home. They have provided aesthetic appeal and have stimulated all the senses to become plants of desire for medicinal, health, fragrance and culinary use. Herbs can be cultivated easily from seeds, depending on the climate and environment, in the ground or in containers. Botanically they are classified into annual, biennial and perennial groups, having a life cycle, of one, two, or many years duration respectively. • In Calgary, perennial herbs such as mint and chives, can be used in garden beds, and harvested at various times for culinary use. • Biennial herbs, such as angelica and parsley, survive one winter. In the first growing season the plant produces foliage, and then completes its flower, fruit and seed production in the second year prior to dying. • Annual herbs, such as basil and cilantro, are easily grown in pots or in flower bed borders.
Some herbs have insect-repelling qualities due to their pyrethrum and citronella content, so can be grown to good effect in outdoor sitting areas or in kitchen windows. The culinary uses of herbs are many, including salad dressings, sauces, marinades, sugars, syrups, ice creams, oil and vinegar infusions, but freshly picked herbs can also be used for decoration. They can be dried on a rack and stored, or freshly frozen in ice cube trays for later use in stir fries, soups and casseroles. Herbs are best harvested early in the day when their essential oil concentration is at its peak, before the day’s heat reduces the flavour and fragrance. Clip the leaves regularly to encourage new growth and a continued supply of young fresh herbs.
Herb butters are easy to make by combining melted butter with leaves such as parsley, chives, dill and garlic. Similarly, combine herbs with soft cheese, then roll and allow to harden in the refrigerator. Scented geranium, lemon balm, mint, rose, lemon thyme, strawberry and lavender are commonly utilized in herbal teas. The leaves are steeped in boiling water, and then enjoyed hot or cold. Care must be taken not to brew everything available, as many plants make teas which have potent medicinal, and not always desirable, effects. Dandelion tea, for example, although generally healthy, can have laxative and diuretic properties if too much is consumed. Certain medical conditions can be aggravated by teas. It is always advisable to consult with doctors concerning herbal interactions with prescribed medications. When the hard day is over, add dried rose petals and lavender flowers to bath salts, steep a pot of camomile and mint tea, light a rosemary-scented candle and relax, later falling asleep with soothing, calming lavender essential oil drops on the pillow. Leonard hails from South Africa, spoiled with culturally diverse foods and horticultural magnificence. He realized that what was taken for granted there, had to be achieved with hard work, commitment, patience and passion in Calgary.
Wines of Summer:
Off-Colour, Off-Beat & Off-Dry Wines
Off-Colour Wines By Tom Firth Off-colour wines for summer may imply that these wines are somehow offensive or not suitable for polite company, but not to worry, we have some fresh wines perfect for summer that look just a little different than your everyday white or red wines. Rosé wines are essentially an almost white wine made from red grapes. Though some winemakers make pinkish wines from white grapes (such as in some Okanagan pinot gris) by cold soaking the grapes. Other winemakers will make “vin gris” by trying to make a white(r) wine from red grapes such as pinot noir. Rosé wines, almost without exception should be served chilled, but not ice cold in white wine glasses.
Finally, some wines are brown. Or, if you want to be technical, tawny in colour. Most consumers will have some experience with tawny ports or certain types of sherry that due to extensive barrel aging and oxidation of the wine during its manufacture, takes on a tawny brown colour. These wines are great for winter, but can also be a welcome aperitif during the summer. If going with tawny or rosé ports, sherries, or madeira, its ok to serve them lightly chilled, and I would suggest pouring a smaller serving (around 2-3 ounces) at a time into a smaller white wine glass. Tom Firth writes and consults on wine and is the contributing Drinks Editor for Culinaire magazine. Follow him on twitter @ cowtownwine
Off-Colour Wine Picks Croft NV Pink Port, Portugal A very unusual port in that it is pink in colour rather than red or tawny. Sweeter summer fruits of strawberry, with a nice cracked pepper spice to it. It’s great on its own but versatile in cocktails too. $26
Birichino 2012 Vin Gris, California, Going for a French style of rosé, as in drier than most people expect rosé to be, this vin gris is a blend based primarily around grenache and cinsault, but is crisp and dry with almost ethereal fruit and floral character, finishing with some crisp acids begging for some great seafood. $23
Henriques & Henriques 10 Year Old Verdelho, Madeira, Portugal This drier style of madeira has the bright acids, caramel/toffee flavours, a little smoke and lime juice flavours with just a pinch of sweetness. Delicious on a patio or deck very slightly chilled. An added bonus, the bottle will keep up to a year or so once opened. $64
Kettle Valley 2011Pinot Gris, Naramata Bench, BC One of the “darkest” cold-soaked pinot gris I have ever come across, its more rosé than white wine. Still showing all the character pinot gris is known for, it’s still a little creamy (barrel fermented-partly) with a little spice and a crisp, slightly bitter finish. Perfect against creamy seafood or pasta dishes. $33
50 • July/August 2013
Off-Beat : Get me to the Grec’ By Matt Browman
The world is ready for a new hot white grape - off the beaten path. Chardonnay had its day, pinot grigio is at the sevenand-a-half minute mark, viognier more recently stormed the scene, and sauvignon blanc has always has its die-hard adherents. Though unlikely to become the next white-hot grape(s), Greco and Grechetto still deserve a cameo. Both believed to be of Greek origin, Greco comes from the southern Italian regions of Campania and Calabria, while Grechetto (often incorrectly referred to as Greco) arrives via central Italy’s Umbria zone. Though often assumed to be the same, they are ampelographically unrelated. Greco in the south ripens over a long growing season in the hot Mediterranean sun on volcanic slopes where it is best known from around the area of Tufo (referring to the volcanic soil itself ).
It’s known for stone fruit aromas such as nectarine and apricot, with steel, stone and blossom and Greco also ages well, developing intriguing dried thyme and sage, wild white pepper spice and citrus rind aromas. Its focused acidity is filled in with a pleasing oiliness, making for a classic pairing with olive-oil drizzled grilled calamari with fennel and Arbequina olives, or marinated octopus. Grechetto, another late-ripening variety, is better known as a blending grape for the richness and body it contributes, and figures prominently in Orvieto to bolster the otherwise boring Trebbiano. It’s a common component of the dessert wine Vin Santo. Inexpensive varietal offerings as dry table wines are worth seeking out. Matt Browman’s 1980s inception into the restaurant world led to certification from ISG, WSET and the Court of Master Sommeliers, with restaurant, retail, education, journalism and travel experience.
Off-Beat Wine Picks Sportoletti 2011 Grechetto, Assisi DOC, Umbria Voted by this contributor as ‘most overlooked white wine on Alberta shelves’, this has always been a best-kept secret. An initial waxy, lanolin aroma is filled in by mild floral and melon fruit. Softer acidity makes it a rich mouthful that is not overwhelmed by overripe fruit or any oak. $16
Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Greco di Tufo DOCG, Campania Friendliness incarnate, Feudi di San Gregorio is best known for producing polished wines with expressive, up front fruit. The lemon curd, honeycomb, green peach and stone aromatics set the ground work for a refreshing, zippy style with that telltale heft on the finish. $33
Terredora di Paolo 2010 Greco di Tufo DOCG, Campania Subtlety incarnate, Terredora leads the world in quality Greco production. Only improving with age, the flint, stone, and white peach aromas lead into that classic firm focus with a viscous finish that sings of the sea. $25
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Off-Dry Wines By Peter Vetsch “I don’t like sweet wines” is a refrain so common, it’s almost reflex. If you offer any casual wine drinker a glass of wine before dessert and mention that contains a hint of residual sugar, chances are they will recoil as if slapped and (not so) politely decline. The standard explanation for this widespread revulsion to sweetness in wine is that it stems from winemakers’ sins in decades past. Oceans of gloppy and insipid plonk spiked with plenty of sugar flooded the market and became the lowest common denominator for worldwide wine quality. The funny thing about this theory is that most of these people now shying away from sweeter wines have never even tried the low-end sugary swill from which their preconceptions allegedly arise; their nervousness about off-dry bottles is second- or third-hand, based on something that they heard in passing yet never experienced.
The off-dry wine is one of the best-kept secrets (and possibly the top source of bargains) in the world of wine, and most such bottles use hints of natural residual sugar to elevate the wine to a new level of sensory experience. Nothing quite illustrates the glorious interplay between the main building blocks of a wine like the exquisite razor’s-edge dance between sweetness and acidity in a good off-dry white, with the sugar fleshing out the wine and keeping it from tasting too dour or tart and the acid scouring the palate and ensuring the wine keeps its freshness and energy. The result is a breathtaking high-wire act on the palate, a back-and-forth chess match of flavours and textures that somehow comes together in precise balance in a single sip. It is unlike anything else. Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night, pursuing his vinous passion by writing for city-life website calgaryisawesome.com and maintaining his own wine blog at popandpour.ca
Well, no more. If you are in the camp of people that has shied away from sweeter wines in the past, it is time to see the light.
Off-Dry Wine Picks St. Urbans-Hof Wiltinger Alte Reben Riesling, Germany The pinnacle of off-dry expression, German Riesling almost always costs less than it is worth. This is one of the best wines you can find for $20.
Tantalus Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia A top Riesling producer in the Okanagan never fails to impress with taut, layered wines seething with torrid acidity, calmed down just enough by an expert touch of sweetness. $30
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, Germany Higher in price but still a steal. Laser acidity combines with powerful flavours of white peach, Asian pear and wet rocks – a mesmerizing wine with an eternal finish. $40
52 • July/August 2013
Visit Naramata Bench Wineries This Season
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serendipitywinery.com Follow us on Twitter @Winespiration
Meet winery owner Judy Kingston and taste at the Calgary Stampede wine garden.
By Tom Firth
During your summer, you may be tempted to visit wine country on your travels. You may be strictly there for the wine, or you may be on a golfing, culinary, or beach vacation, and visit some wineries we have some tips for you. • Visiting wine country can be as onerous or as relaxed as you want it to be. To make the most of it and still relax a little, most people can handle up to about four or five wineries in a day. Plan to start earlier in the day, and try to make one stop a meal; a lunch or a quick bite. You can still take in the ambience of the winery, try something you like, and not worry about trying to taste everything they offer.
• If you would rather ship wine home from abroad, the Alberta Gaming and Liquor Commission (AGLC) allows up to 45 litres of wine per ninety day period for personal consumption. It should be air-freighted to your Alberta address, and the AGLC will contact you to make arrangements for you to pay the outstanding duties and fees prior to the delivery of your product.
• Use the internet or take advantage of the concierge or front desk at the hotel. Find out how far away the winery is, if appointments are needed, or even if the winery is open to the public. Phoning ahead is never a bad idea.
• From within Canada, and if you are accompanying the wine, there really aren’t any limits on what you can bring back, as long as it is for personal use. For questions, you should contact either the AGLC or Canada Customs.
• Pace yourself. Take a guided or organized tour, have a designated driver, or just take your time.
We have an incredible and diverse selection of wine, beer, and spirits in Alberta. To see if your “new find” is already here, check out www.liquorconnect.com to save yourself either potential hassles or disappointment.
• Use those spittoons. That is what they are there for. You may be tempted to “get your money’s worth”, but you’ll get more out of the visit this way. Though there isn’t anything wrong with savouring a favourite glass. • Ask questions. Get the most out of your visit and trust me, there are no dumb questions when it comes to wine. • You may also be tempted to buy wine during your visits, and it can be easier to get it home than you think. • If Alberta is your first point of arrival when returning from abroad to Canada, you can bring with you about 12 bottles of wine. Declare your purchases on arrival and expect to pay duty. Fees are only about $3 per bottle for wine over your two bottle personal exemption.
Something good to remember is that although your wine is fine in the car for a few hours on a hot day, if it’s too hot to keep chocolate in the car for an extended period, it’s too hot for wine. Bring it into the hotel room right away rather than leave it to the elements in the trunk.
After passing through the city in 1988 and returning the following year, Calgary has been Sal Howell’s home ever since.
Open That Bottle
Her parents travelled a lot, so she left Mumbles, in Wales, at four years old, grew up in Guernsey, and attended boarding school in Boston, MA, where she became Canadian at the city’s consulate at the age of 16. She studied painting and photography at Mount Allison University, New Brunswick (the first university in the commonwealth to grant a women a degree), and after graduation, came west to join a girlfriend and see the country.
In 1989 Howell was opening manager of Lake Louise Trading Company, a natural food café selling first nation artefacts, “where on weekends, people yet to be discovered like Jan Arden and Sarah McLaughlin, would play live”. She helped open Heartland Café that year too, baking muffins and making soup, and then Mescalero in 1990. An opportunity to invest in the group arose, and with support from her family, she got a foot in the door to start her restaurant career, opening River Café in 1991, (summer only and with only outdoor seating), and Teatro in 1993. Two years later, Howell and partner Dario Berloni, rebuilt River Café to what it is today and operated both restaurants for a further ten years.
Working in the mountains in summer, Howell fell in love with the terrain and history of the region. “I embraced a romantic vision of cowboy culture,” she says, “and became a keen equestrian.” Howell somehow knew that she wasn’t going to be making her living as a painter and photographer. “I found my creative outlet in River Café, the most creative canvas I could possibly find,” she explains. ”At every level; what was created on a daily basis, what was created at the very beginning - it was all a huge creative outlet, bringing together the components of a magical dining experience to create magical moments.”
By Linda Garson Photography by Ingrid Kuenzel
During this time, in 1999, Richard Harvey (of Metrovino) introduced her to wine in a more serious way, and Howell took sommelier training WSET level 1 and 2, and ISG Sommelier. “At home, growing up, wine was stuffed everywhere,” she says, “my parents had so much tucked away under the bathroom sink etc, there was Champagne all over the house
and they’d say it was for your 21st or wedding, whichever came first.” For a while Howell was very interested in collecting wine from her birth year, and luckily it was a good year for wine. She celebrated her 40th birthday with a magnum of ’66 Bollinger Champagne that someone wanted to sell and she couldn’t resist. Burgundy is a passion, and she has more squirreled away at home from this region than from anywhere else. Pride of place goes to a 1947 Moillard Pommard and a 1947 Huet Vouvray Moelleux from the Loire too – and she’s looking for Culinaire readers to write in with suggestions as to when she should open them! More recently, Howell has started the tradition of putting away wine of her twins’, Annabel and Elliott’s, birth year, and she has several 2007 double magnums of single vineyard Calera signed by Josh Jensen himself, along with magnums of Pontet-Canet 2007 and Blue Mountain Pinot Noir 2007 in the collection. Her wish? “To be around to enjoy the wines with them, when they’re old enough.”
The Calgary Brewing And Malting Company by David Nuttall
As one passes through the eastern end of Inglewood, a large collection of structures rises into view near Blackfoot Trail. Partly derelict and partly in use, most people probably don’t know this location used to house Calgary’s first brewery, especially since it hasn’t produced a single beer in almost two decades! However, it does have an interesting history, tied into a virtual who’s who of Calgary pioneers, and one that continues to this day. Historically, when it took several weeks and often months to ship products over any long distance, breweries popped up to supply its region whenever a town hit a certain size. In the 1880s, Calgary was becoming the biggest town west of Winnipeg and east of Vancouver, located on the newly completed Canadian Pacific Railroad, in the middle
of farm country, and at the confluence of two rivers. Calgary was ripe for the first brewery in the vast North-West Territories. Enter Alfred Ernest (A. E.) Cross. A Montreal-born veterinary surgeon who moved out west in 1884 to work at the ranch owned by Matthew Cochrane.
He went back to Montreal for medical reasons, and when he returned in 1891, he had a diploma as a brewer’s apprentice, and established the Calgary Brewing and Malting Company in 1892. Cross, in partnership with William Roper Hull, purchased the land from Colonel James Walker and William Pearce, choosing the site because it was right on the rail line and had an underground Bow River-fed aquifer. The brewery was built and began producing beer a year later. When the beer finally made it to market, it was promoted as a beer that had “the highest grade of malt, the finest hops, the purest water, and the cleanest air. Alberta malt, British Columbia and imported hops, Rocky Mountain glacial water. These make Calgary Beer.” Originally the brewery made ales, porters and lagers, but it is the latter which survived throughout the brewery’s life span. Cross registered the now iconic Buffalo Head trademark in 1893. The original logo, created by A.H. Hider, had the buffalo looking to the left inside a red horseshoe with CALGARY emblazoned within the top of the horseshoe. The logo changed slightly over the years. The buffalo began looking more head
on as soon as 1926. In the 1970s, a more stylish buffalo head was designed, and barley stalks appeared on both sides of the horseshoe. Cross went on to found the Calgary Stampede as one of the “Big Four” in 1912. He married Helen Rothney Macleod, daughter of North-West Mounted Police Commissioner James Macleod, and the man who gave Calgary its name. More than just a brewery owner, Cross was a rancher, involved with oil and gas, the motion picture industry and served as the MLA for East Calgary in the Legislative Assembly of the North-West Territories. He also helped establish the Ranchmen’s Club and the Calgary Polo Club. His old house is now a provincial heritage site known as A.E. Cross House, currently home of Rouge restaurant. Throughout the 1900s, the brewery expanded to become an integral part of the Inglewood community. In 1908, it became the first industrial site to use natural gas in Western Canada. During Prohibition (1916-1924) they exported beer to Mexico and produced soft drinks and aerated water. In order to save employees’ jobs during the Depression, they created the Brewery Gardens, trout ponds and fish hatchery. In 1960,they opened one of North America’s largest salt water aquariums, and the Horseman’s Hall of Fame Museum was
added. Because of the central location and setting, many events were held there right into the 2000s. The Cross family eventually sold the brewery to Canadian Breweries in 1961, becoming part of Carling O’Keefe in 1973, and purchased by Australia’s Foster’s Brewing in 1987, which in turn was bought by Molson Breweries two years later. Carling actually quit selling the beer in the Alberta market in 1985, but it continued to sell well in Saskatchewan. Special editions were revived for the 1988 Calgary Olympic Winter Games and in 1992 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the original brewery. Although Molson closed the brewery in 1994, the Calgary brand continued to survive, but only in Saskatchewan, although it was now made in Vancouver. Molson’s (now Molson Coors) began distributing the beer for sale in its home province again in late 2011. What was supposed to be a one-time shipment of 150,000 bottles sold so well that they brought it back for the Stampede Centennial in 2012. Whether it will become a permanent fixture in Alberta is still up in the air. So what is the fate of the Calgary Brewery now? Not an easy answer. There are 16 structures on the site, in various states of repair. Remaining buildings include the 1892 Brew House and Ale Cellars, 1903 Storage
Cellars, 1905 Brew House, Racking Room Storage and smoke stack, and the 1907 administration office which was designed by Hodgson and Bates that still has some of the original detail including a sandstone carving of a buffalo head and horseshoe. The current owner of the site applied for a demolition permit in 2009, but the province ordered a historic resources impact assessment to study the site’s heritage value and integrity, giving it a stay of execution. The City of Calgary lists it one of the city’s most significant heritage sites and the province notes the site’s role in the city’s early industrial development and its varied architectural designs. Its heritage value increases because of its association with Cross but because the site is privately owned, heritage status has no legal bearing in preventing a developer from demolishing the buildings. The developer has mentioned they want to keep some of the historic buildings, but want to raze the rest. So the fate of the brewery remains in limbo, and hopefully this part of Calgary’s rich history will be around for years to come.
Award Winning Beers for Summer By David Nuttall and Meaghan Oâ€™Brien
Once the warmer months arrive, beer consumption, unsurprisingly, goes up. With more outdoor activities, restaurant patios open, backyard BBQs and parties; there just seems to be more opportunities to drink. Really, what decent summer festival doesn’t have a beer garden? Most commonly, people turn towards lighter, thirst-quenching beers this time of year. So what beers are best for your summertime beer dollars? How about trying some award winning beers? The Calgary International Beerfest just took place in May, and they announced nine winners in three categories suitable for summer. Now in its ninth year, Calgary’s largest beer festival has had a judging component for the past seven years. This year had the most categories (17) and more entries (over 200) than any previous year. Blind judging took place over two days, and the competition was stiff. Here’s a look at the winners in the Pilsner, Light Hybrid, and Light Lager categories.
Pilsner - these thirst-pleasing brews are ready to grab your taste buds in the sweltering summer heat. Local brewery, Brew Brothers, took home the gold for their Prairie Pilsner. This fresh, Czech style pilsner is nice and light at 4.5% ABV, and the Saaz hops really push through with bold, yet balanced, bitterness. Pair this one with BBQ eats, such as a lamb burger and seasoned red skinned potatoes on the grill, though try not to mask it with too strongly flavoured dishes. Brew Brothers products can only be found at selected restaurants and bars across the city, but try them if you can at their home locale; The Rhino on 11th Street. The silver and bronze winners pay homage to the classic Bohemian Pilsners of the Czech Republic. Creemore Springs Premium Lager (6-pack bottles $14 or $3 for 473ml can) from Ontario took the silver medal. Two malts and three European hops give it a very fresh taste. Its texture and slightly hoppy flavour go well with roast and grilled meats, spicy food and strong cheeses. The bronze medal went to a brand new brewery from Indiana, Tin Man. Opened in late 2012, their beers are just now hitting the Alberta market. Their Circuit Bohemian Pilsner (4 x 473ml cans- $13) also uses two malts, but only one hop, Saaz, to give it a light and crisp finish.
Hybrids are the fifth wheels of the beer world. A cross between lagers and ales, they don’t fit in with either, so their own category had to be created. Unusual techniques are used to brew them, and they often look like ales, but
are as light and refreshing as lagers. The gold winner for Light Hybrid Beer went to Old Yale Brewing Co. from British Columbia, for their Chilliwack Blonde Ale (650ml bottle, $5). This light-bodied creamy blonde has a smooth malt sweetness; enjoy on its own or with a summer pasta salad and honey glazed chicken kebabs. Whether you’re already hooked on craft beer, or new to the wonderful world of craft and looking for a transition beer, this next one is for you on a hot summer day. High Country Kölsch (6-pack cans $15) brewed by Mt. Begbie Brewing Co. in Revelstoke, B.C., is a pale, mild beer with ever-so-gentle hop presence. Originally a style belonging only to about twenty breweries in Cologne, Germany, this type of beer is often mistaken for a light lager or less hoppy pilsner. At 4.5% ABV, this may be your camping and patio sidekick for the next couple of months. With a touch of citrus fruitiness and a subtle and balanced bitterness, High Country Kölsch was awarded the silver medal for Light Hybrid Beer. Available only in cans or on tap, enjoy it cold with grilled fish or chicken and grilled veggies. This next thirst quencher is from Toronto’s Mill Street Brewery, Stock Ale ($15 for 6-pack bottles). If you’re searching for a beauty of a refreshing ale, this one won’t disappoint. Stock Ale was awarded bronze for its bubbly crisp, dry body and light, faint hop profile with a touch of sweetness. There’s no question that you’ll be reaching for it on the patio this summer. Food is not required with it, but be sure to pair with very light eats such as a salad, chicken or mild cheese.
Light Lager - though we may not have the hot temperatures of Barcelona, we sure can enjoy some refreshing Spanish beer. Cervezas Moritz ($17 in 6-pack bottles) is a mellow lager that dates back to 1856, with pleasant fruit notes and balanced spicy Saaz hops. Using extra-pale malts and the spring water of Montseny Mountain near Barcelona, Cervezas Moritz was the proud gold medal winner in the Light Lager category. The silver medal went to Howe Sound from Squamish, B.C. for its Howe Sound Lager ($15 for 6-pack cans). Based on the Dortmund-style lagers of Germany, which have a little more alcohol (5.5% ABV) than most other lagers, the use of German noble hops gives it a clean, dry finish, with less bitterness than some of the pilsners and lagers above. This beer is only available only in cans. The bronze medal winner is a true mixture of influences. Coney Island Lager (650ml bottle, $7) from Shmaltz Brewing in New York combines eight malts from both North America and Europe with Saaz and five other Noble and North American hops and
Czech pilsner yeast. They call it “the thrill of old world brewing with new world flavour”. It is also a 5.5% ABV beer, and pairs well with barbecue, fish, chicken and salads. All these award-winning beers should be available at better liquor stores, and some are also featured at restaurants and bars. With light, crisp bodies and taste, they make perfect summer beers. While you’ll want to drink them on their own, they do have more flavour than many more heavily advertised beers and, consequently, will be better companions to most foods. Search them out, you may find yourself drinking them all year round! Meaghan O’Brien is a self-proclaimed beer enthusiast with a passion for hunting down unique brews for her blog, megsbeerbanter.com. You can find her on Twitter @MegsBeerBanter. David Nuttall has been a stalwart of the Calgary beer scene for over 15 years, and owner/president of Epicurean Calgary (www.epicureancalgary.com) since 2002.
Craft Distillers Here to Stay By Andrew Ferguson
Canadaâ€™s whisky industry has been dominated by a relatively small number of very large distilleries for much of the last half century. Most are owned by the brand giants that dominate the industries in Scotland, Ireland and the United States, but now the international whisky landscape is changing dramatically, and at a very rapid pace. Craft, or micro, distilleries have been popping up all over Europe, parts of Asia and most especially in the United States.
vodka. The distillery’s equipment is squeezed into a 1,200 square foot bay of a strip mall in the town of Concord.
The craft distilling movement in the US has followed in the wake of craft brewing. Throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s small breweries began appearing all over the States, notably on the West Coast. Many of these breweries like Anchor, Dogfish Head and Ballast Point began tinkering with distilling as a way of expanding their brands. By 2005 there were already 50 craft distilleries in America. Nine years on and there are now more than 250, and the movement is spilling across the border into Canada. Canada’s first craft distillery was Glenora built at Glenville in the Cape Breton Highlands of Nova Scotia. Established in 1990, the distillery launched its first own whisky in 2000, Glen Breton Rare, an 8 year old, which was followed by Glen Breton Rare 10 year. Since then it has also launched 14 and 15 year olds, as well as 10 and 17 year olds matured in Canadian Ice Wine casks. Describing its first 23 years as “rocky” would be an understatement. There were financial hurdles to overcome, both in starting a distillery from scratch and waiting 10 years for your first saleable product. An even bigger threat to the survival of Glenora Distillery emerged in a protracted legal fight between the distillery and the Scotch Whisky
Association or SWA. While Glenora distillery makes a Scotch-like whisky, it cannot, and has never referred to it product as Scotch. That term is reserved exclusively for whiskies made, matured and bottled in Scotland. The SWA felt that a Canadian distillery using the term “Glen” confused and mislead consumers into believing that the product was Scotch whisky. The suit ignored the fact that the term Glen has been used as a geographical name in Canada for centuries. Beginning in 2001 the argument wound its way through the courts before the Federal Court of Appeal finally and definitively ruled in the distillery’s favour. To celebrate, the distillery released a commemorative 15 year whisky called the Battle of the Glens. This May, Still Waters Distillery bottled its first whisky, Stalk & Barrel. Matured and bottled from single casks, these single malt whiskies are just 3 years of age, the minimum under Canadian law. They will begin hitting the shelves in Alberta later this summer. Established in 2009 on the outskirts of Toronto, the distillery was the brainchild of friends Barry Stein and Barry Bernstein. While the distillery produces Scottish-style single malt whisky like Glenora, it also produces Rye and Corn whiskies and a single malt
Still Waters was not Ontario’s first craft distillery; that honour would have to go to Forty Creek, established in Grimsby in 1992. Wine and whisky maker John Hall distills with a variety of grains including malted barley, corn and rye. Rather than mix the grains in a mash, as is common in the US, John mashes, ferments, distills and matures each grain type on its own before blending, the way winemakers do with varietals. Forty Creek produces inexpensive blends, like their Barrel Select for mixing, as well as sipping whiskies like Double Barrel and Confederation Oak. The latter was matured in casks of Canadian oak, planted around the time of Confederation. Moving west, the craft distilling movement is vigorously bubbling away in British Columbia, on Vancouver Island. Victoria Spirits was one of the first to break ground in 2008, releasing a gin that year, and distilling its first whisky in 2009. Like Forty Creek, Victoria Spirits can trace its origins to a winery, Winchester Cellars, though the winery and distillery operate independently today. The whisky is currently maturing in small new American oak casks called octaves, and old Bourbon barrels. There are also plans afoot to cooper casks from Oregon White Oak, which is abundant on Vancouver Island. Victoria Spirits is expected to release its first whisky called Craigdarroch later this year. Also on Vancouver Island is Shelter Point Distillery located just north of Comox. Construction took place between 2009 and 2010 but distillation was held up by government red tape until September of 2011. The distillery was co-founded by Andrew Currie, who also co-founded the Isle of Arran Distillery in Scotland in 1993. The estate grows its own barley, and the distillery is producing four batches of spirit a week. Shelter Point is being managed by Mike Nicholson, a semi-retired Scott with decades
of experience in the Scotch whisky industry. Its first release of whisky is still a year or two away. Pemberton Distillery was also founded in 2009 by Tyler Schramm who studied brewing and distilling at Hariot-Watt University in Edinburgh. He first turned his attention to producing an organic potato vodka called Schramm before distilling his first single malt spirit in 2010. Whisky production has been very small scale to date, focusing on organic barley sourced from the Okanagan. The first commercial release of whisky from the distillery is expected to be at least another two to three years away. Over the next couple of years, the next generation of Canadian whiskies will begin trickling into the market, and they are just the beginning. At least three other craft distilleries are in various stages of development in British Columbia alone. In Alberta the owners of Calgary’s Big Rock Brewery have also mused about starting their own distillery. Though still in its infancy, craft distilling is starting to shift the ground under Canada’s established whisky industry. Andrew Ferguson is widely regarded as one of the foremost experts on Scotch whisky in Canada, and runs his own business, Ferguson Whisky Tours. Follow him on twitter @scotch_guy
Andrew’s Canadian Craft Whiskey Picks Glen Breton 10 Year – Light, malty, honeyed, floral and sweet, with hints of fruit. $90 Glen Breton 14 Year – Rounder and fuller than the 10 but still malty with butterscotch. $105 Glen Breton Battle of the Glens 15 Year – Sweeter and fruitier than the 10 or 14, it is still light and soft. $133 Glenora Rare Single Barrel Icewine Cask – Lots of sugars and more fruit than the rest of the range, but still malty. $50 Forty Creek Confederation Oak – Very creamy, spicy rye notes, hints of orange and maple. $65
Andrew’s Other Canada Day & Stampede Whiskey Picks Calgary Stampede 25 Year – This 100% Corn whisky bottled for the Stampede’s Centennial is very balanced and fresh with notes of caramel corn. $58 Coyote Ugly – Though only 3 years old there is just a little heat with loads of spice and caramel. $38 Dark Horse – Sweet, fruity and dark, this is big but balanced. 100% rye whisky made from a mash of both malted and unmalted rye. $31 8 Seconds Whisky – This fruity, juicy and smooth whisky will soothe after 8 seconds on a Bull or Bucking Bronco. $38 McLoughlin & Steele Whisky – Light and sweet with notes of rye, vanilla and spices. $44 Pendleton 1910 – Ginger, tobacco and burnt wood with dark fruits. Canadian whisky bottled for the Pendleton Round Up rodeo. $50 White Owl – The oak’s colour has been filtered out, but not its citrus notes, butterscotch or anise. $40
Calgary Summer Cocktails By Tarquin Melnyk
“The people here don’t sip Jack Daniels whiskey” —Hank Williams Jr.
A casual census of Calgarians finds that most people loosely define Stampede as a call to being nicely goosed for days on end. From corporate parties, to late nights on the grounds, for many people Jack Daniel’s is the cowboy’s spirit of choice. Jack Daniel’s is the most widely consumed North American whiskey on earth and one of the most widely recognized brands as well. So, as the Calgary Stampede waves its bacchanal flag, we showcase some Jack Daniel’s drinks that don’t take themselves too seriously at all.
“The Pickleback” The Pickleback is an ideal pre-dinner shot; the saltiness whetting the appetite for what follows. The perfect accompaniment to Banh Mi or grilled Hot Dogs at your next house party. It’s simple to make - take a shot of chilled JD and chase it with an equally chilled shot of pickle brine.
“Lynchburg Lemonade” Named for the infamously dry county where Jack Daniels is produced, Lynchburg Lemonade is a classic mixer; great for a summer refresher and ideal when served with food, or taken as a refresher when escaping from the summer heat. Think of it as a great substitute when citrusy wines are too formal for the occasion. Try with charcuterie boards, with sharp cheese and spicier cuts of meat. 1.25 oz Jack Daniels .75 oz Triple Sec .5 oz fresh Lime Juice 1 bottle Fentimans Victorian Lemonade Garnish: Brandied cherries & lemon slices
1. In a tall sling, fill glass with ice. Pour spirits over ice. Add lime juice.
2. Top with lemonade and stir until well mixed. Garnish with cherries and lemon slices. Dangerously easy to drink.
With the return of the classic “tiki” cocktail, French style rhum is the perfect mixer. The French use Agricole directly from sugar cane juice rather than molasses used in most rum production. Flavours are brighter, more acidic, and often have a fresh, grassy character. These rums are not as heavy as English style molasses based bottles, but you still get the classic rum sweetness that balances the vegetal characters in some cocktails. With the “Martiki Sour”, I wanted to accentuate the spicy character of the agricole while still keeping the drink fresh and accessible.
“Martiki Sour #1” 2oz Clement Martinique Rhum Agricole 1oz fresh pressed Pineapple juice 1oz Green & Black Cardamom & Lemongrass Raw Sugar Syrup made fresh 3/4 oz fresh pressed Lemon Juice (add more or less to taste) 6 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters Prepare syrup ahead. For 1 litre use 4 stalks fresh lemongrass (crushed) with a handful of green & black cardamom (also crushed, to release seeds from pods) boiled in 1/2 litre of water. Green cardamom adds a eucalyptus freshness and black cardamom has a naturally earthy smokiness. Allow to steep with three large pieces of lemon peel. Dilute to 50/50 mixture with raw sugar, well stirred. Strain and return to room temperature.
1. Combine all ingredients, except angostura, in shaker. Add four large cubes of ice. Shake hard for 20-30 seconds, until ice starts to break down & pineapple is emulsified.
2. Double strain, using tea strainer, into chilled coupe. Serve without ice.
3. Float 6 heavy dashes angostura on top of drink. Give the drink a quick stir with lemongrass stalk and serve.
Tarquin Melnyk is a Bon Vivant Cocktologist, Certified Specialist of Spirits, Traveller & Adventurer. Always down to try something new, especially when he can write about it
Go East Young Man
A Bartender’s Journey Into The Prairies By Gabriel Hall
rhubarb bitters with honey and Fernet Branca give it a unique sweet and herbaceous taste. Cho’s outlook on cocktails is much like his outlook on life: keep it simple, clean and honest. Producing contemporary twists on classic cocktails which honour the restaurant, food and spirit of the drink is his way of paying homage to the city which welcomed him.
Vancouver’s Christopher Cho has made the jump from the coast to the prairies, landing at the Calgary institute for all things meat and pork: Charcut. Having worked with major Vancouver restaurants including Lumière, db Bistro Moderne, Ensemble and Fable, he has continued his affiliation with Canada’s Top Chef alumnus by joining forces with Connie DeSousa and John Jackson.
Initially, Cho was hesitant to move from a comfortable, well-developed food scene, but was quickly swayed when he saw what Calgary had to offer, “The food culture here has grown immensely since the last time I was here. It has since become one of the top dining destinations the nation has to offer. The talent is definitely here.” 66 • July/August 2013
In the end, the draw of a growing, dynamic scene appealed to Cho’s sense of adventure, “I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to revamp a bar program in one of the country’s best restaurants, in a city where the cocktail scene is just starting to hit. There are a lot of great bartenders in the city, I wanted to be part of that movement.” Charcut’s meat-centric menu is a contrast to the seafood-driven menus that are often found on the west coast. Cho feels he doesn’t have to change his methodology even though he has changed environments, “I’ve always been a strong believer in complementing the restaurant” notes Cho, “At Ensemble I was focusing on white spirits, while here [at Charcut] we have a lot of bourbon based cocktails; the smokiness and spice pairs well with the rotisserie and smoker.” Charcut’s charcuterie and cured meats inspired the Toro, a twist on the Toronto classic cocktail, which itself originated from the Manhattan. The addition of
1 oz Canadian rye ½ oz Fernet Branca ½ oz sweet vermouth ½ oz Honey Syrup 2 dashes rhubarb bitters Pour all components into a large glass and fill with ice. Stir for approximately 30 seconds. Pour into a coup or martini glass. Use an orange twist to aerate the orange oil into the glass and rim the glass with the orange twist, discard the twist. Garnish with cherries.
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