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ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 8 NO.2 :: JUNE 2019

FIRE & FOOD

OUR BBQ AND GRILLING ISSUE 

KNIVES TO LAST A LIFETIME Brewery Tourism | Beef Many Ways | Haskap Berries | BC Wines Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

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The Perfect Picnic Pair Grab and go delicious Be Fresh salads & flavourful kombuchas.

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SHO ONLI P NE IN-ST OR ORE


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Features 18

Knives For A Lifetime Beautiful knives require time, science and know-how, and a good one can last for generations – read on to tell the difference! by Diana Ng

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Beef Raised Right Dylan Biggs is a life-long rancher, but he decided long ago that TK Ranch was going to do things its own way – and for good reason. by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

32 Bring out the Beef There is a cut of beef to suit everyone, and our guide will help you choose the right one for you, and where to find it. by Elyse Chatterton

Departments 24 Cheese Glorious Cheese: Cheese for the grill by Daniel Bontje

42 Alberta Beer Tourism … takes off! by David Nuttall

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Shout Outs

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Off The Menu – Il Sogno’s Carrot Cake with white chocolate caramel

30 Berry Bounty Cooking up new flavours with haskap berries by Sheryl Normandeau

46 Making The Case… Backyard British Columbia by Tom Firth

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Book Review – From Barley to Blarney, A Whiskey Lover’s Guide to Ireland

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Chefs’ Tips and Tricks: All About Barbecue!

40 BBQ Culture … is catching fire in Alberta by Carmen Cheng

50 Open That Bottle Artist Mandy Stobo by Linda Garson

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Spice It Up: Baked Potatoes

48 Etcetera

On the Cover: For our grilling issue we wanted to make your mouth water for a perfectly cooked Alberta Beef steak. Many thanks to Vintage Chophouse for allowing us into their kitchen at a very busy lunchtime, and to Dong Kim for capturing the deliciousness of the food being cooked and served.

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Letter From The Editor Do you spend time with friends on restaurant and pub patios or are you preparing for grilling days, al fresco dinners, and cocktails, rosé, and beer on the deck? This month, we're celebrating fire and food, and Father’s Day. We support our ranchers, and we’re learning how to choose, prepare and cook your beef, and about the kings of BBQ. We’re also learning about the knives that make your life easier in the kitchen (or in the wild) whatever you’re planning to eat.

June is a reason to rejoice for me with expectations of summer arriving soon, and the longest days we’re going to see this year. How do you enjoy the extended daylight?

Did you notice that we’ve grown this issue? I’m bursting with pride, and couldn’t wait to tell you that, contrary to market forces, we’ve added an extra eight pages as we couldn’t fit everything in the pagination we’ve maintained for a few years. And we’re expecting our July/August issue to be the same, and even bigger in September and October. Many thanks to

you, and our advertisers and supporters that have made it possible. Onwards and upwards! You may have noticed a difference in my picture this issue, thanks to Mandy Stobo of Bad Portraits. She painted her self-portrait for Open That Bottle on page 50, and one for me, which we absolutely love! Since we last chatted we held our 5th Calgary Culinary Treasure Hunt – and what a great day it was! Yet again we were thrilled to see participants learning new locations to eat, drink, and shop, and have a very fun time too. Gratitude and thanks to Salt Box and Granary Road for the launch, to Bite for our wrap party, and to all our 30 destinations too. It was another very rewarding day, and it’s your turn next, Edmonton! Cheers, Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief

CELEBRATING EST.

60

1959

YEARS

SERVING ALBERTANS

We don’t kid around about coffee.

In our shops, we grind and serve tens of thousands of kilograms of Italian coffee beans to fuel the morning drive to work, much deserved afternoon breaks and to accompany a little dolce in the evening. With over 30 brands from all over the world - we take our beloved café VERY seriously and serve every espresso, cappuccino and latte with pride.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. Italiancentre.ca EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End

CALGARY Willow Park


ALBERTA | FOOD & DRINK | RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor: Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor: Daniel Bontje web@culinairemagazine.ca Sales and Marketing: Chris Clarke 587-998-2475 chris@culinairemagazine.ca Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca For Edmonton: Lorraine Shulba 780-919-9627 lorraine@culinairemagazine.ca Design: Little Blue Bug Studios Edmonton Contributors: Daniel Bontje Anna Brooks Elyse Chatterton Carmen Cheng Elizabeth Chorney-Booth  Mallory Frayn Tom Firth Dong Kim Diana Ng Sheryl Normandeau David Nuttall

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Our Contributors < Elyse Chatterton

Classically trained butcher, enthusiastic baker, passionate gin drinker and food blogger, Elyse Chatterton is from the northwest of England. She started work for her family as an apprentice butcher at 14 years, and has been cutting meat ever since. Moving to Edmonton seven years ago, Elyse works at Tofield Packers and with Get Cooking Edmonton as a culinary instructor. Follow her @elysechatt and lifewithoutlemons.com.

< Diana Ng

Diana is a co-founder of EatNorth.com, freelance food writer, and digital media strategist who is always looking for the best foods and stories about those who produce them. She's written for FoodNetwork.ca and CanadianLiving.com, and Fodor's travel guide, among other websites and publications. You'll never find reduced-fat foods in her cabinets or fridge. Follow her @FoodSalon and @EatNorth.

< Sheryl Normandeau

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Sheryl Normandeau is a master gardener and writer from Calgary. She is a regular contributor to several magazines, including The Gardener, Archive, Herb Quarterly, and The Prairie Garden. Her story "Revive Your Tastebuds (and Tradition) with Drinking Vinegars and Shrubs" appeared in Culinaire September 2014. Sheryl is always on the lookout for new ways to use fresh garden produce in the kitchen.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.


Shout Outs… The restored Oliver Exchange is the place to be in Edmonton right now! Here you’ll find Todd Barraclough’s new Brio Bakery, whose artisanal loaves and croissants were only available at City Market. And Odd Company Brewing, with a taproom serving a rotating line of a dozen beers, and smaller format options. Six hobby brewers have joined forces to experiment with small batches, so there’s always something new to try! Brad Lazarenko’s Culina To Go is now open for take out lunches and brunches, and familysize dinners; and Iconoclast Coffee is roasting coffee here as well as their new 60-seat café!

of lip-smacking dishes from burnt ends to smoked tomatoes – and from all over the world, including unexpected offerings such as kangaroo loin and whiskey BBQ frogs legs! 11am–10pm, closed Sundays.

Smoke ‘N’ Fusion

Monki Breakfast Club & Bistro In Calgary, Monki Breakfast Club & Bistro has opened a second location after a major refurbishment of the Fine Diner spot in Inglewood (and there may be a third location this year too!). It’s nearly twice the size of their 10th Avenue SW location, and they’ve kept the same menu, which means we can enjoy all our fave dishes here such as their brisket which cooks overnight for 12-13 hours and appears as Bene or Hash, Pancake Breakfast Tacos, Rosti Waffles, crazy good prosecco hollandaise with Monki’s special spice blend, and their amazing chocolate domes! Smoke ‘N’ Fusion has opened in Avenida Place, and they’re on a mission to show you that there is nothing that cannot be smoked. But for owner Chef Steven Szostak, it’s not just about breaking cornbread and eating delicious food, it’s about building relationships and growing community – and giving back to their not-for-profit partners. Executive Chef Kosta Galanos’ menu has a wide range 6 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

Local 510 is now Lulu Bar, Concorde Group’s latest restaurant, and a great addition to 17th Avenue SW dining. Closest in feel to their Bridgette Bar, and with a Pacific-inspired menu from senior culinary director, JP Pedhirney, and Chef Joseph Sokoloff, you’re in for a wood-fired, flavourful treat. Signature dishes include Coal-Roasted Halibut, Slow Roasted Lamb with Malaysian Curry, veggie and meat skewers, Fried Miso-Cured Egg, and Fried Coconut Squid to name just a few! There’s also a well-curated drinks list of wine, sake, draft beer, and tiki-influenced cocktails. Open 7 days, 11 am-late.

enjoy the hot buffet and salad bar, and the charcuterie and wine bar with local beers on tap too. There’s also sushi and pizza stations, and a full-service Starbucks, but that’s not all… fresh-baked artisan breads and desserts, a deli, and a well-stocked cheese counter and all your kitchen and bathroom needs too. Open 7 days, 7 am-10 pm. East Village has a band new cocktail bar! Open every day from 5 pm, Yardarm is an intimate lounge with live piano music, serving up creative cocktails and charcuterie as well as veggie canapés such as blue cheese mousse and mushroom tartare, and meat/seafood tartars and tatakis - and sweets!

Congratulations to Broxburn Vegetables who are celebrating 25 years of growing chemicalfree veggies, and in addition to their booths at Crossroads, Millarville, CSpace, and Lethbridge farmers markets, have now launched a Mobile Market! Check out mobilemarketyyc.com or broxburn-vegetables.com.

Urban Fare

From the first location in Market Mall, 21 years ago, OPA! has partnered with likeminded franchisees from B.C. to Ontario, and now CEO and the first franchisee, Dorrie Karras, has opened OPA!’s 100th store in Calgary! Congratulations!

Urban Fare’s first Alberta location is open in Mount Royal - it’s big and beautiful, and full of gourmet goodies. You can buy quality produce to cook at home (there are oldfashioned butcher and Ocean Wise™ seafood counters!), or heat and eat from a wide selection of prepared meals. Or dine in and

And congrats to Foothills Creamery who are celebrating 50 years producing Canadiansourced and handcrafted dairy products. From making quality butter in Calgary in 1969, they expanded to ice cream in ‘86, opening in Edmonton in ’95, and Kelowna in ’99. Way to go Foothills!


CANADA’S CATTLE HAVE HIDDEN TALENTS Beef cattle belong in Canada’s landscape, doing their job to maintain healthy ecosystems. The environmental benefits of cattle is a powerful untold story that needs to be herd (pun intended). There’s a secret life to cattle that doesn’t tend to make the headlines… Cattle keep grasslands going Don’t take grass for granted. Canada’s pasture and prairie store up to 1.5 billion tons of carbon, equal to the emissions from 3.62 million cars annually. Cultivation of grasslands can lead to a 30-35% loss of soil organic carbon. Cattle are key to healthy soil Healthy soil is the secret to life. Cattle sustain soil with the nutrients from manure for healthy grass. Healthy grass = ground cover protection from blazing sun and pounding rains. Cattle are the ultimate manure spreaders. No bull. Cattle help birds Birds live in the grasslands that cattle sustain. Cattle maintain 68% of the wildlife habitat capacity that comes from our agricultural land. Many bird species would lose their habitat to overgrowth without cattle grazing. Keep calm. Graze on. Cattle are ‘upcyclers’ Cattle do amazing things – they eat and digest grasses and crop by-products we can’t, turning them into one of nature’s most powerful proteins.

Cattle are a perfect fit with Canada’s climate, pasture and prairie ecosystems. With 74% of Canada’s native grasslands already lost to cultivation, grazing cattle are key to preserving these important spaces. For more info visit: canadabeef.ca/whycanadianbeef

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Off The Menu by LINDA GARSON photography by DONG KIM

We love receiving your requests for recipes from your favourite restaurants in Alberta, but we weren’t sure if we’d be able to help when Kris M wrote: “Would you be able to find a certain recipe? My partner and I loved a restaurant in Calgary called Il Sogno. It closed a few years back, but we were OBSESSED with their carrot cake. If it was socially acceptable, we would have just gone for the carrot cake.” We’re delighted to tell you that our sleuthing was successful! Many thanks to Il Sogno owner, Patricia Koyich, for the recipe, and to Il Sogno chef, Brian Diamond, who is now Executive Chef at Blink Restaurant, for recreating the cake for our photograph.

Carrot Cake With White Chocolate Caramel

2. Add half of the carrot purée and 1 egg, stir then add the remaining purée and egg.

1. Combine the chocolate and butter in a large bowl and set aside.

Serves 6

3. Sift together all dry ingredients and add to the wet mixture slowly on low speed until combined.

2. Bring the cream and salt to a simmer, remove from heat and cover.

Carrot Cake 90 g soft butter 75 g brown sugar 70 g sugar 210 g carrots, puréed 2 eggs 1 cup flour 1 tsp baking powder ¼-½ tsp baking soda 1 tsp cinnamon ½ tsp ground ginger 32 g white chocolate, chopped small 1. Cream butter and sugars together in a mixer.

4. Fold in the white chocolate. 5. Pour into 6 - 4oz ramekins/moulds that have been buttered inside and bake at 375º F in a shallow water bath for 45 minutes. White Chocolate Caramel 125 g white chocolate 12 g butter 100 mL cream ¼ tsp salt 50 g sugar

3. In a medium pot, start melting the sugar on medium heat. When it begins to melt, stir with a whisk and cook until a deep amber colour. 4. When the sugar has completely dissolved, slowly add the cream while whisking - be careful as there will be a lot of steam! 5. When the cream has all been added, continue to cook for 1 minute then pour over top of the chocolate and butter, and whisk together until incorporated.

If there’s a dish in a restaurant in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca/contact-us, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you!

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ADVERTISING FEATURE

WHAT ARE YOU PLANNING FOR DINNER THIS FATHER’S DAY?

Urban Fare, Calgary’s new unique grocery store, has ideas the family will love if you’re making a special meal at home – try fresh, authentic wagyu beef ribeye steak from the Signature Meat Collection! Wagyu is a healthier beef with softer fat and a higher ratio of unsaturated fats, a finer meat texture, and higher marbling which provides more flavour, juiciness, and tenderness. It’s the same ultra-rich breed that put Kobe, Japan on the map. The cattle are multi-grain fed and lovingly nurtured in the grasslands of New South Wales, Australia, where there is more space and open farmland. The beef is hormone - and antibiotic - free, and arrives fresh, never frozen. Urban Fare’s butchers cut the steaks by hand in-store to maximize the flavour and tenderness.

Urban Fare Executive Chef Ryan McDonald has some tips for perfect wagyu steak: Cooking is simple and easy; you don’t want to do much to take away from the flavour and look of these beautiful steaks. Heat a cast iron skillet and just add salt – no butter or oil. Salt doesn’t burn, and because of the marbling in the meat, you don’t need extra fat. When you put the steak in the hot skillet, the salt will mix with the fat and create a good crust. Be careful not to overcook, wagyu is best served medium-rare to medium.

Sear for about 1½ to 3 minutes on each side, depending on how well you like your steaks done and then - most importantly - let the steaks sit and rest for five minutes (no less then three minutes). This relaxes the fibres, and when you cut the steak you’ll lose less juice and the meat will be tastier and juicier, with the same buttery flavour and tenderness you would expect at a steakhouse. Cut into slices on an angle for a very impressive appetizer for your favourite friends, and enjoy at home tonight… and any special night!

“THERE IS NO LOVE SINCERER THAN THE LOVE OF FOOD.” — george bernard shaw

Wagyu beef is available at the meat counter at: 101-906 16 Avenue SW, Calgary 403-243-0119 Open every day 7:00 am – 10:00 pm


Book Review

From Barley to Blarney, A Whiskey Lover’s Guide to Ireland

Sean Muldoon, Jack McGarry, Tim Herlihy - Andrews McNeel $30

by TOM FIRTH

and a much greater journey than expected. Those expecting a dry or in-depth explanation of only the distilleries of Ireland might be disappointed as From Barley to Blarney is laid out as more of a guidebook for those planning on having a merry old jaunt around the Emerald Isle and enjoying a pint or dram at most stops along the way.

As a huge enthusiast of Irish Whiskey, this was a welcome addition to my reading list,

Sorted into five regions around Ireland Leinster, Dublin proper, Munster, Connacht, and Ulster, each section covers the pubs and the distillers in the region along with a short history of distilling, and a little bit about the area in general. All told in an easy, conversational tone that delves deeply into what the distilleries are about, and what to try if you can’t try everything. Each stop is accompanied by wonderful photography that isn’t just green hills or column stills – drawing

a fine balance between traditional and modern Ireland. Since Ireland doesn’t really have that many distilleries to go through, it’s the sections on the pubs where the book really shines. Somehow making each stop personal and sharing the ambiance of each watering hole - without making it seem exclusive or an unreachable experience. These are pubs you may want to visit, and you know why. Is this the quintessential guide to Irish whiskey? Perhaps, but what this book best accomplishes is firing up your soul for an Irish vacation. Will this be your only guidebook? No, but you’ll find yourself penciling in which pubs to wet your whistle at in your evenings (or afternoons), and reaching for this little tome as new Irish Whiskies hit our shelves.

:: Jun e an d July Culinaire V ine & Dine Series :: We’re happy to announce our June and July Calgary Vine & Dine evenings and look forward to seeing you soon. Cheers!

Fine Japanese Tea Tasting

Sunday June 9 3:00 - 5:00 pm Only 4 places open now with Michiko Ono, Japan's tea ambassador to Canada, and Japa Café’s superb tea snacks. $38.75 ++

Allora Everyday Italian

Monday June 10, Tuesday June 18, and Monday June 24 Everything for these 6-course pairing dinners is local, handmade (gluten-free pasta too!), or direct from Italy. NEW! On June 18 we have

Alessandro Guagliardi with us too from Travaglini in northwest Italy for a special evening! $78.75 ++

and in July…

One-Off South African Winemaker Dinner, Oxbow

Friday July 12 With the best views around, Sirocco Golf Club is the perfect setting for a delicious casual dinner party with a sparkling reception and 5 pairing courses. $82.50 ++

Thursday June 13 NEW! Bellingham, from Franschhoek in South Africa, who were founded in 1693, are with us for a special pairing dinner at Oxbow! $89.50 ++

One-Off Chilean Winemaker Dinner, Murrieta’s

Friday June 14 Chile’s famous winemaker, Marcelo Papa, is with us for a special pairing dinner, including Chile’s first icon wine – Don Melchor! $96.85 ++

10 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

One Off Special Patio Party Dinner Sirocco Golf Club

Celebrating Mandela Day, Safari Grill

Thursday July 18 A special evening to celebrate doing good - as well as enjoying 6 pairing courses of Safari Grill’s delicious summer dishes! $78.75 ++

Las Canarias

Wednesdays July 3, July 17, and July 31 3 nights to choose from for an authentic Spanish 6-course pairing dinner! $78.75 ++ And there are only 8 spots open now for our 12-day, all-inclusive wine and culinary tour of Portugal, May 2020! For details and to reserve your places in Calgary Website: culinairemagazine.ca/events Contact: linda@culinairemagazine.ca 403-870-9802 All evening events are 6:30 pm to 9:00 pm


Experience THE NEXT FRONTIER IN BC WINEMAKING

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019 11


Chefs' Tips

Tricks!

All About Barbecue!

by ANNA BROOKS photography by DONG KIM

Summers in Alberta are short, so we need to make the most of doing what we love: beers on the patio, lounging in the sun, and of course, grilling up something delicious on the barbecue. generous helping of sea salt, and served with a homemade vinaigrette and toasted cassava, or Brazilian arrowroot (and, Montes says, a glass of beer of course!) Brazil-up your barbecue this summer and try Montes’ mouthwatering recipe for picanha with Brazilian salsa!

Barbecued Picanha with Brazilian Salsa Serves 4 Barbecue is one of our favourite cooking methods because it’s so versatile. Chicken, fish, fruit, veggies – you can grill just about anything. Paying homage to what we’ve done since the beginning of time, we talked to four local chefs this month about the beauty of cooking outdoors over an open flame. In Alberta, we’re known for our beef, but there’s something special to be said about Brazilian barbecue. To Jose Montes, chef at Minas Brazilian Steakhouse in Calgary, barbecue isn’t just a meal: it’s a full-on party. “In Brazil, barbecue means to get together with friends and family,” he says. “Barbecue is the easiest meal to share because all you need is just meat, and the fire. It goes back to a long, long time ago when people only had fire to sit around and eat.” Montes says meat in Brazil isn’t traditionally cooked on a grill, but skewered and roasted over an open flame. It’s seasoned with a

1.5 Kg Brazilian picanha (or sirloin cap) Coarse salt For salsa: 2 tomatoes, julienned 1 medium yellow onion, julienned 1 green pepper, julienned 1 bunch of parsley 7 Tbs (100 mL) white vinegar 3½ Tbs (50 mL) olive oil To taste salt and pepper

1. Cut the picanha into strips to create around 5 or 6 small steaks. *Tip: cut on an angle perpendicular to the fibres running diagonally through the meat. 2. Rub with a handful of coarse salt. 3. Grill on barbecue for 5 minutes on each side for medium rare. Set aside and rest.

4. To make salsa, julienne the tomatoes,

onion and pepper. Mix in with chopped parsley, olive oil, and vinegar.

5. Spoon salsa over picanha and enjoy!


Charcoal Grilled Tamminga Farm Asparagus Serves 4

1 Kg local asparagus (we love Tamminga Farm) ½ cup (125 mL) extra virgin olive oil 2 lemons, zested 3 sprigs thyme 1 Tbs smoked paprika 1 tsp cumin, ground 1 Tbs garlic powder 1 Tbs kosher salt Splash of Tabasco

Looking for the perfect spot to sit back and enjoy a refreshing cocktail on a patio?

1. Bring barbecue temperature to 400º F, with glowing red charcoal embers. 2. Trim bottoms off asparagus. In small mixing bowl, combine 7 Tbs (100 mL) olive oil with lemon zest, thyme, spices, salt and Tabasco. 3. Cut the two zested lemons in half. Char lemons When it comes to barbecue, we traditionally think of meat. But barbecued veggies are just as tasty, and they can also be a great complement to whatever protein you’re working with. Grilling stone fruit and asparagus are favourites for Jean Paul Comte, chef at the new Waalflower Kitchen & Cocktails in Calgary. “I use a charcoal barbecue, which I think enhances the flavour of any protein or vegetable you cook,” he says.

on barbecue until quite dark. Allow to cool, and then squeeze through a strainer into marinade.

We are featuring Wine Wednesdays 1/2 price Bottles all Day and BBQ Fridays

4. Place asparagus evenly on barbecue (no need to blanch first) and brush with remaining olive oil. *Note: asparagus can slip through barbecue grills, be careful when turning. 5. Char asparagus 3 - 5 minutes, but don’t burn. 6. Remove and plate. Drizzle with marinade.

“A trick for grilling vegetables is to keep a keen eye on them – they cook faster than you think!”

In the mood for Jazz? Join us every third Thursday of the month starring a Jazz Quartet Weather pemitting it will be held poolside!

Not only does barbecue make them tender and juicy, but breaking down the fibres in vegetables really helps bring out the flavour. Comte also recommends brushing veggies with a marinade when they come off the grill – try sprinkling on some barbecue spice blends and finishing salts to take your vegetables to a whole other level. The perfect accompaniment to any summer dish, try Comte’s recipe for charcoal grilled asparagus!

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019 13


“Things that go well with beef are aromatics, like rosemary, thyme, mustard, and roasted garlic.” For barbecue, he recommends choosing a cut of beef with lots of marbling, and then marinating it overnight to ensure a tender and flavourful final product. If you really want to lock in moisture, Pakan also says to try your hand at injecting your meat with a simple brine – salt, sugar, and water – to keep it from drying out on the grill. Want to take your steak to the next level? Try it yourself with Pakan’s recipe for reverse-seared ribeyes!

Reverse-Seared Rib Eye Steak Judging by the name of the restaurant, we know what Aron Pakan, head chef at restaurant Meat in Edmonton, specializes in. Spending most of his career working in highend steakhouses, come summertime, steak is his go-to for the barbecue. “I’m about making that piece of meat as delicious as possible. Marinating is a really good way to make an otherwise flavourless piece of meat something that’s absolutely magical,” he says.

14 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

Serves 4

2 ribeye steaks (preferably bone-in) Olive oil To taste salt and pepper Rosemary Butter Preheat oven to 220º F.

1. Rub steak with kosher salt, coarse ground

black pepper, and olive oil (don’t be afraid to use a fair amount, you want the seasoning to

fully penetrate the meat).

2. Place seasoned steaks on a roasting rack with a bake sheet, and put in oven. 3. Check after 20 minutes, and every

10 minutes after that (the larger the steak, the more time required in the oven). *Tip: If you have a bone-in steak, use a meat thermometer. For steaks 2-3 cm thick or less, aim for 115º F. For steaks over 2-3 cm thick aim for 120º F.

4. Once desired temperature is reached, rest for 15 minutes. While steak is resting, heat up your barbecue. Rub grill with canola oil. 5. Rub steak with a bit of olive oil, and season. 6. Sear steak for two minutes on one side. Flip and do the same on the other side.

*Tip: If you want a nice crosshatch design, flip steak again to first side and turn by a quarter. After two minutes, do the same to the second side.

7. Take steak off grill and rest on a rack with a sheet pan underneath. Put rosemary on steak and rub with butter. Rest for another 10 minutes and serve.


. We d..c.ayotu er You PthearBBtQyan,d the party! foo We bring

CASUALLY ELEGANT. UNIQUELY VINTAGE.

RESERVE A TABLE ON THE PATIO Take in the summer overlooking the plaza at Heritage Town Square. SUMMER MENU From our garden to your plate LOBSTER BOIL Thursday June 27 East coast meets west coast with a traditional family-style lobster boil on the exclusive Foundersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Lounge patio. TICKETS REQUIRED

(403) 454-2550 136 2nd STREET SW info@minassteakhouse.com www.minassteakhouse.coM

#EATATMINAS Reservations and Tickets 403.268.8607 or www.SelkirkGrille.ca SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR RESTAURANT HOURS


For David Leeder, chef at Woodwork in Edmonton, grilling is in his DNA. Cooking on charcoal can seem intimidating if you’ve never done it before or are just starting out, but he says all you need is a bit of patience. “You can’t rush a beautiful thing. You want to do it low and slow,” he says. “The depth of flavour from using an open fire you just can’t get using a gas grill or a pan. It has this deep richness you just can’t compare.” Leeder says there are a lot of misconceptions about cooking over fire. If you’re cooking over charcoal for the first time, his biggest tip is letting it burn for about 30 minutes until it reaches a white coal. That way all the oils and carbon will burn off ensuring whatever you’re grilling doesn’t taste like gas – and you won’t risk scorching your food. One of our favourite new summer veggie dishes, try Leeder’s recipe for charred cabbage with hazelnut salsa verde!

Charred Cabbage with Hazelnut Salsa Verde Serves 4

1 cup of hazelnuts ½ cup butter 1 cabbage, cut into quarters Salt for seasoning 16 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

For salsa verde: ¼ cup roasted hazelnuts 2 pinches red pepper flakes 1 cup parsley 1 cup basil 1 cup mint 1 cup tarragon 1 cup (240 mL) olive oil, 2 whole anchovies, finely chopped ¼ cup capers, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 2 Tbs (30 mL) lemon juice 2 Tbs (30 mL) white balsamic vinegar

*Note: Do not rush or your butter will be too light and lack flavour, or will burn.

1. Cover hazelnuts very lightly in olive oil, and bake for 12 minutes at 350º F. Set aside.

7. When first flat side is completely charred, rotate onto the second flat side and repeat. Flip cabbage onto the backside and cook the rest of the way.

2. To make salsa verde, mix ¼ cup hazelnuts with chili flakes and crush. Add parsley, basil, mint, tarragon and olive oil. Finely mash. 3. Add in anchovies, capers and garlic. Mix

in and continue to pound. Finish with lemon juice and balsamic vinegar. *Tip: add a bit of caper brine instead of salt.

4. In a heavy bottomed pot, melt butter on

the lowest burner setting until it turns a deep brown colour, about 20-30 minutes.

5. Brush cabbage lightly with brown butter

and season generously with salt.

6. Place cabbage on its flat side over low

charcoal or flame. Char very slowly for a minimum of 10 minutes for a deep char. Keep brushing lightly with brown butter. *Tip: Cook low and slow to avoid a burned outside and undercooked core.

*Note: The back leaf can be peeled off after cooking – cabbage is pretty forgiving on the barbecue!

8. Plate cooked cabbage and brush with last

bit of brown butter. Dress with salsa verde. Top with crushed hazelnuts. Finish with microplaned/grated hazelnuts and lemon zest. Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist and graduate student currently living and studying in New York City.


Wa t c h o u t E d mo n t o n , we’ re c o mi n g b ac k !

Save t he date for our 4th A n n u a l Ed m o n to n Tre a s u re H u n t on Saturd ay S e p te m b e r 7, 2019 ! Our three Edmonton Culinaire Treasure Hunts have been amazing – they were so popular that they all sold out fast, so this year we’ve planned new and exciting destinations to discover, and we have new treats to tempt you! Trivia questions about participating restaurants, markets, and stores reveal the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat, get your passport stamped, and maybe come away with a little culinary gift too! And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit

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the most locations, wear the best costumes, have the funniest team names, tweet the funniest photos… and lots, lots more! Register today to be one of the lucky people to take part in this culinary adventure! It’s a very fun and rewarding day, so grab a partner and sign up as a team of two, or sign up solo. To reserve your spot, visit culinairemagazine.ca/ treasure-hunt, follow us on Twitter @culinairemag for the latest details, and like us on Facebook to keep up with the news and for more information!

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: : I t ’ s g o in g to b e a n other day to remember for Edmonto n! : :

CELEBRATE FATHER’S DAY WITH

ELEGANCE Th e u n iq u e mic ro c limate gi ves Carpineto Brunello di Montalcino an intense bouquet, vibrant acidity, fine elegance and great longevity.

Decant before serving alongside hearty dishes, including roasts, grilled red meats, and wild game.

Please drink responsibly.

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019 17


Photograph courtesy Zwilling J.A. Henckels

Knives For A Lifetime by DIANA NG

If you’ve planned ahead and started your garden or containers in the spring, you’re probably harvesting the first fruits of your labour, picking spring radishes, lettuces and the like, and you feel invincible. After all, you’ve created food from seeds. Let the lay people buy their cherry tomatoes, yours are ripening on the vine, just steps away from your kitchen. You are ready to move to the countryside.

A hard knife can retain a very sharp edge, but it’s far from indestructible. Conversely, softer steels are not delicate. They can handle a lot of stress, but they will not stay as sharp as hard steel.

And, you might even be inspired to get some new kitchen tools and knives. After all, why shouldn’t you want tools that make your ingredients shine? Heck, if you’ve ever watched Forged in Fire, you might even have thought about learning to forge knives so strong that you can cut through whole animals like butter.

Both the metal and the forging method affect the outcome of a knife. One of the determinants of the hardness of a knife, and one of the first considerations when buying a knife, is the steel that it uses.

Alas, as fun as it is to watch, it’s reality TV, and beautiful knives require time, science and know-how, and a good one can last for generations. So what’s a “good” knife? It is fundamentally important to distinguish between a hard knife and a tough knife. 18 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

“Stainless steel won’t rust, but it never cuts as nicely, and generally doesn’t stay sharp as long as carbon steel knives,” explains Kevin Kent, founder and owner of Knifewear stores across the country. “But carbon steel knives can rust.” There’s also high carbon stainless steel, which was developed to achieve hardness without discolouration. Another type of steel that achieves the best

of both worlds is laminated steel, where a hard steel designed to be the edge of the knife is sandwiched between two softer and tougher steels. Even with the same steel, different methods of knifemaking - stamped or forged - can create knives with completely different profiles. With stamped knives, which is the most common, knives are stamped from sheets of rolled steel. “Think of it like sugar cookies,” says Kent, whose shops carry a range of both stamped knives and forged knives. “So you buy a sheet of sugar cookie dough and you have a knife-shaped cookie cutter and you punch it out.” Forged knives are repeatedly heated and hammered by hand, until the steel takes on the shape of a knife. From there, it is quenched, tempered, annealed, ground, and polished.


While a stamped knife can be very strong and also goes through a heat treat process that hardens the blade, it doesn’t benefit from the hammering that forged knives do, which builds up the integrity. Shun knives, made with VG10 steel, are an excellent example of an entry level, mass produced Japanese knife. They’re made with VG10 sheets, cut, ground, heat treated and sharpened, and by all measures, they are great knives. “But if you get a VG10 steel knife made by a master blacksmith who’s hammered it,” says Kent, “that VG10 steel is tougher and will stay sharp longer than the one that was stamped.” That difference is what makes stamped knives comparatively more affordable. Zwilling J. A. Henckels, one of the most well-known knife manufacturers in the world, has multiple product lines that span across both European style and Japanese style, from the popular Twin series to the Kramer series that was developed with renowned Master Blacksmith Bob Kramer, all with different grades of steel and different hardening processes. So what’s with the obsession with Japanese knives? “I always say that a Japanese knife is like a Ferrari and any other knife is like a 4x4 truck, really rugged,” says Kent.

Japanese knives are typically made with much harder steel, like powder steel, which enables them to be sharper and to stay sharper longer. In addition, Japanese blades are typically thinner, which contributes to them being sharper, but it also means they’re not as rugged as a German knives. Whereas European kitchen knives are ground to around 20° for their blade angle, Japanese single-bevel edges are ground to around 15°, with Zwilling’s Miyabi knives ground to a blade angle of 9° to 12°, according to Brad Prystupa, territory manager of Zwilling J. A. Henckels Canada.

F I V E S TA R V I N TAG E

You’ll need a range of knives to complete all the different tasks

Unlike in Forged in Fire or late night infomercials, the best knife isn’t necessarily the one that slices through military boots and a pile of bricks, or hacks through ice blocks and bamboo. Regardless of the steel, the best knife is the one that feels the most balanced to you and does the job best, which means that you’ll need a range of knives to complete all the different tasks in the kitchen. In other words, you’ll need knives, lots of knives.

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY River Jump Santoku, courtesy Knifewear

WWW.MASI.IT


All-purpose knife Arguably the most important knife in your collection, or probably the first knife you’ve ever bought, this all-purpose knife is the one you’ll rely on 80 percent of the time. The one knife to rule them all, this multipurpose blade will get you through most of what you need to do: cutting, slicing, and chopping. This type of knife generally has a wide blade, anywhere from 15 to 30 cms long, and has an edge that curves upward toward the tip. Vegetable knife Though cutting vegetables may seem boring, here’s where you’ll find the most variety of knives designed for the job. From the European chef’s knife, Japanese nakiri, to the Chinese chef’s knife (not to be confused with a cleaver), there’s something for everyone, and every cutting style. Butcher’s knife Also called a cleaver, but different from a Chinese chef’s knife, butcher’s knives are big, hefty, and really the only knives meant to hack through ribs and other thick bones. Forget for a moment all the things you just read about sharp edges and thin blades. This knife is swung like a hatchet to cut through bones with force. European, Japanese and Chinese knife makers all make this heavy and sturdy rectangular blade. Boning knife or filleting knife Now that you’ve taken the big cuts apart, you’ll need something thinner to strip meat from bones with precision. While they’re not interchangeable, both are thin, narrow and meant to get into crevices with a small tip to remove flesh from bones. The filleting knife is flexible enough for the blade to get in parallel to the spine of the fish. Slicing knife If you’ve ever attempted sushi making at home, you probably found it difficult to slice fish in one fluid motion like you’ve witnessed at the sushi bar. Experience and mastery aside, the knife makes a big difference in the ability to get thin, even slices. This is the kind of knife you’ll want for slicing turkey breast and prime rib, in addition to fish. Yanagiba and sujihiki both fall under this category. 20 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

Paring knife Designed for small jobs like peeling potatoes and apples, deveining shrimp and slicing garlic for pasta sauce, this little blade likely isn’t going to kill anything but it will negotiate curves and bumps of knobby vegetables like a dream. Sometimes made with a curve and called a bird’s beak knife, these tiny knives are small, but essential to any kitchen. Regardless of the knife, you need to take care of it to help it stay sharp for longer. Both Kent and Prystupa advise against putting knives in the dishwasher. This means you should hand wash them in soapy water and hand dry them well. Then, store your knives in a way that their edges won’t get

Courtesy Zwilling J. A. Henckels

Shimo Nakiri, courtesy Knifewear

Koishi Petty, courtesy Knifewear

banged around, such as in a knife block. You’ll also want your knives sharpened regularly by a professional. Honing rods and sharpening steels will correct minor wear until the blade is simply too dull, chipped, or the angle is too far off to be fixed at home. “Think of that honing rod like it’s a comb,” explains Kent. “It makes your hair look good until you need a haircut. That honing rod will make your knife sharp for longer until it doesn’t anymore.”

Diana is a co-founder of EatNorth.com, freelance food writer, and digital media strategist who will eat your food when you’re not looking.


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TK Ranch:

Beef Raised Right by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

When it comes to the history of ranching in Alberta, Dylan Biggs is a fount of knowledge. The man behind TK Ranch (though he will acknowledge that his wife Colleen deserves just as much credit) in Coronation, Alberta (just northeast of Hanna) grew up on his family farm, which was founded by his father in the mid ‘50s. But despite being a life-long rancher working in an industry that is not exactly known for its flexibility, Biggs long ago decided that TK Ranch was going to do things its own way. TK has been a pioneer in many aspects of ranching that have since become prized among modern ranchers, but things like sustainability, grass finishing and direct marketing have not always been in fashion for beef producers.

22 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

A combination of economic factors and personal choices has pushed these values to the forefront for Biggs, which is part of the reason that TK Ranch has such a dedicated following among beef lovers. One of TK Ranch’s biggest differentiators has been an emphasis on animal welfare. TK’s practices include things like freeze branding as opposed to traditional hot iron branding, and low-stress livestock handling and weaning. Biggs is also very particular about what happens to his animals in the slaughterhouse. After years of personally escorting his cows into the stun boxes himself to ensure their comfort, in 2015 the ranch started operating

its own on-site abattoir, a true rarity in Alberta ranching. “I think we’re the only ranch that has our own provincially inspected on-ranch abattoir that allows us to not have to haul or truck our cattle anywhere to be slaughtered,” Biggs says. “We can control the whole process and ensure that it’s done in a calm, controlled matter.” Biggs has won awards for his low-stress livestock program and, for the last 20 years, has regularly led clinics all around North America to help other ranchers implement similar practices. In addition to doing his best for his animals’ wellbeing and creating a superior product (there’s plenty of


just selling into the commercial commodity market, you’re victimized by the incredible swings in commodity pricing.” While beef is, and will always be, their primary business, TK Ranch also produces ethically raised pork, lamb, chicken and turkey. All products are available through the ranch’s website at tkranch.com. TK delivers to Calgary, Edmonton and surrounding areas for a small fee, and customers can also pick up orders at the TK Ranch store and cutting facility near Chestermere. evidence that calm cattle make for more delicious beef), his practices are also designed to benefit his own wellbeing and that of his family. He grew up watching his father’s stress grow along with that of the animals and decided if he wanted to stay in the family business, he’d have to do something different to protect his own mental health.

TK’s cows are also grass fed, a practice that had fallen out vogue when Biggs started out, but has come back on trend in recent years. The same goes with the sustainability measures that TK has always made part of its business.

“If you grew up on a farm or ranch handling livestock, you know it can be a challenging, difficult job. And typically those challenges are met by resorting to force and fear,” he says.

Sticking to one’s values can make profitability difficult, which is why, in 1995, Biggs decided to get out of the commodity cattle business and start selling direct to consumers. Again, this was a risk, but Biggs pioneered a “pasture to plate” model that now has them birthing, raising, slaughtering, dry-aging, packing, and selling directly to customers, giving them complete control over their product.

“I just got tired of being in a position where you had to resort to being mean and yelling to get the job done. It just wasn't fun. And I thought, if I'm going to do this for the rest of my life, there’s got to be a better way.”

“If you decide as a rancher to suddenly become the finisher and the butcher and the whole nine yards, that adds a ton of work,” Biggs says. “One of the incentives was financial viability. Because when you're

While many of TK’s practices may seem on trend today, Biggs also sees his methods as a return to old school ranching culture, which he hopes his customers appreciate. He raised his kids on the ranch and his two daughters are now involved in the business, learning the processes that their parents put in place. “So much of the old infrastructure around ranching is gone — there are no small abattoirs anymore, if you go to a small town there are no butcher shops, everything is coming from the big guys,” Biggs says. “It’s that culture change that we need to address in terms of people having a connection to their food, which will give them some connection back to the land.”

Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.

An ‘Infield’ Experience Above the Crowds

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the north, join us to experience the real Portugal!

May 2 1 - Ju n e 1 , 2 0 2 0 This comprehensive tour includes: Four-star hotels Excursions, winery visits and tastings with special Culinaire Vine & Dine privileges in vineyards and castles

Visits to markets, castles, museums, and other cultural locations Guided city tours Plenty of time to shop and wander Visit culinairemagazine.ca/events or contact linda@culinairemagazine.ca 403-870-9802

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Our 3rd Annual Alberta’s Finest Drinks List awards is open for entries, have you entered your wine, beer, and spirits lists yet? Your customers are looking for great drinks lists to complement your menu and complete the dining experience, so whether your specialty is By The Glass, Brown Spirits, Alberta Content, Italian List, or you have an all-round world-class small, medium or large wine list, we’re looking for the best in the province. NO COST to enter - Judged By Industry Experts Results will be published in September 2019 Culinaire Magazine For more details and to enter your drinks list go to Culinairemagazine.ca/Finest Alberta’s Best Italian Wine List is in collaboration with the Italian Trade Agency

G e t th e rec ognition you des erve!

24 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019


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Discover Why Naramata Bench was voted Best BC Wine Trail 2018 Skirting glistening Okanagan Lake’s east shores from Penticton, the 15-kilometre Naramata Bench country road is aweinspiring. The scenic drive alone leaves little mystery why Naramata Bench was voted Best BC Wine Trail 2018 (BC Wine Institute Awards). Cue your favourite music and wind along rolling hills bedecked with verdant vineyards and renowned wineries.

and distinguished winery members that form the Naramata Bench Wineries Association (NBWA). The passion and excitement is palpable, as each winery member enthusiastically shares their respective wines, knowledge of the local terroir, and the region’s unique wine culture. The hospitality and magic will engulf you.

Beyond discovering world-class wines, you’ll find a welcoming spirit to be a common thread amongst the 30 distinct

No wonder Naramata Bench was voted Best BC Wine Trail 2018 and Huffington

Post named the Okanagan as a “Top Wine Destination in the World”. Soak up this idyllic setting. Perhaps partake of a picnic or dine on delicious wine-country cuisine. Pick up NBWA’s Treasure Map – available at Travel Penticton and participating wineries – to explore most effectively and get stamped to enter to win tickets to NBWA events.

TOP 8 WINERIES IN CANADA TOP 4 WINERIES IN BC -2018 National Wine Awards of Canada

JOIN THE BENCH 1775 WINE CLUB BENCH1775.COM


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Treasures are yours to discover whether it’s your first visit or one of many. Unearth “a story in every bottle” at NBWA’s members: Bench 1775 Winery, Black Widow Winery, D’Angelo Estate Winery, Da Silva Vineyards and Winery & The Kitchen, Daydreamer Wines, Deep Roots Winery, Elephant Island Winery, Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery, Foxtrot Vineyards, Hillside Winery & Bistro; Kettle Valley Winery, La Frenz Winery, Lake Breeze Vineyards & The Patio, Lang Vineyards, Laughing Stock Vineyards, MOCOJO Winery, Monster Vineyards, Moraine Estate Winery, Nichol Vineyard, Perseus Winery, Poplar Grove Winery & Vanilla Pod, Red Rooster Winery & Pecking Room Grill, Roche Wines, Serendipity Winery, Singletree Winery, Terravista Vineyards, Therapy Vineyards & Guesthouse, Three Sisters Winery, Tightrope Winery, and Upper Bench Winery, Creamery & The Oven. Like any quest, peruse naramatabench.com frequently. Click the wineries’ websites for special tastings, art exhibits, vineyard/cellar tours, winemaker sessions and blending seminars.

Celebrate harvest at the wine and food event of the season – Naramata Tailgate Party on Saturday, September 14, at the Naramata Heritage Inn. Treasured tickets sell fast, so snag yours now as part of an Okanagan Fall wine tour.

Distinctive discoveries await, for example: You’ll find the folks at Hillside Winery in an especially celebratory mood this season, given the recent sub-GI (sub-geographical indicator) announcement made in May. This news tastes particularly sweet for winemaker, Kathy Malone, who made a tactical decision to focus on Naramata fruit about seven or eight years ago, long before anyone in the Okanagan was seriously talking about subregions. Since 2006, Hillside’s benchmark red blend, Mosaic, has been made from 100 per cent Naramata Bench grown grapes, and in 2013 its full portfolio transitioned to exclusively local fruit. Malone explains, “We feel this brings the vision of Hillside’s founder Vera Klokocka full-circle. Recognizing the importance

of regional differences, she worked to establish the farm-gate license. This led to a proliferation of small, family-owned wineries throughout the region focusing on small-lot, terroir-specific wines. To now be able to share geographical information with the consumer on the label is Vera’s and Hillside’s dream come true.” While the announcement is recent, preparations for the 2019 season have been long underway. Whether you are a “firsttimer” or frequent guest you can expect to discover a refreshingly new twist at Hillside this year. The already charming tasting room has an updated, modern farmhouse look and feel. Provisions were made to enable guests to have an Enhanced Tasting Experience. Appropriately named the “Terroir Tasting”, this is an intimate seated-tasting experience that showcases Hillside’s more premium and small-lot wines. Available only at the winery, these wines (i.e. the Single Vineyard Series) allow guests to deep dive into the “terroir influences” and flavour strands unique to the Naramata Bench. Each featured wine (five) is paired with a food element in a highly approachable and relaxed manner. It’s a sensory experience you’ll want to make the time for – pre-booking is highly recommended. While visiting, be sure to ask for a splash of Hillside’s first ever Reserve Sauvignon Blanc - another example of the small lot, terroirdriven varietals that enthrall Malone. With only 300 cases produced, it’s in short supply. Wine club members get first dibs (it pays to be a member) but rumour is the general public can purchase it in June – if there’s any left. Hillside’s highly acclaimed Bistro was voted “Diners Choice for 2019” and “Top 50 Best Restaurants for Wine Lovers in Canada in 2018”. Like the winery, the menu represents the best of local and sustainable. Led by Executive Chef Brent Pillon, the talented culinary team is in full swing. Notably, pastry chef Jaylayne Jones


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took first place at Gourmet Warehouse’s 7th Annual Chocolate Challenge in May. If a trip to Naramata isn’t in the cards this summer, consider joining Hillside’s Wine Club. Members get special access to all the wines mentioned above, plus other wine club exclusives (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Reserve Malbec). Membership offers Albertans free shipping options direct-to-door. Additionally, two exclusive Wine Club events are coming to Calgary and Edmonton this Fall. At one of Naramata Road’s oldest vineyards, on a spectacular 30-acre waterfront property, Bench 1775 Winery is midway along Naramata Bench. Notable wine columnist Anthony Gismondi called it the “best patio in the world” given its 180-degree Okanagan Lake view. General Manager/Winemaker Val Tait says, “We love our Alberta visitors and their energy for food and wine. In our Bistro, reopened in June, we focus on local, simple yet elevated cuisine including Alberta beef producers and culinary retailers.” The welcoming setting and wines keep folks returning. Bench 1775 was recently named one of the ‘Top 8 Wineries in Canada’ and ‘Top 4 Wineries in BC’ (2018 National Wine Awards of Canada). Quick to acknowledge her team, Tait notes, “Our team treats the last day of the season with the same respect as the first. Year after year, this dedication is across the board from the vineyards, barrel room, and tasting room.” The care extends to the Bench 1775 Wine Club where members gain access to exclusive wines from ultra small lots and special styles and varietals, with exotic tempranillo and teraldego reds, barrel-aged White Meritage, and most awarded 2012 sparkling Blanc de Blanc. For Alberta members, its annual beachside and patio wine club party is not to be missed. Open year-round, Upper Bench is gateway

to the Naramata Bench – fitting, given its sustainability stewardship. In Aristotle’s words, “the whole is greater than the sum of its parts,” as Gavin Miller’s passion in creating artisan wine melds with Shana’s hand-crafted cheese. Environmentally and socially responsible practices balance ecologically sound principles with economic viability. “Don’t mess with a good thing,” Gavin says about his minimalistic winemaking. “Great wine is made in the vineyard through pure fruit.” Truth in labelling is a hallmark. Shana’s cheese is gluten and sugar-free. Even the whey feeds local pigs. Such attention to detail makes Canada’s first Curds & Corks Club at Upper Bench popular. Alternatively, options such as red wine-only shipments are available. The covered patio is ideal to tarry awhile to experience the award-winning wines paired perfectly with the highly acclaimed cheese. The Oven is fired up again for the season and the artisan pizza from the custom Forno

Bravo oven is hard to resist. Choose from several classic Napoletana-style pizzas, salads, Bruschetta, warm olives and other share plates. “A great song’s greatest attribute is how it hints at more,” said musician Gord Downie. In visiting one NBWA winery, you’ll want to discover more.


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BEST RESTAURANTS IN CANADA FOR WINE LOVERS

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28 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019


Cheese for the Grill story and photography by DANIEL BONTJE

Cheese is delicious at any season, and we are lucky that we have a wonderful selection of cheese all year round. However, cheese is all about context and as we hear the propane hum and the charcoal crackle, bbq season is a good time to think about dairy in a new way. When bringing cheese to the grill, always

consider: how am I using this cheese? If you are mixing it into a burger patty, maybe reach for something saltier with enough flavour so it doesn’t get lost. If you are melting cheese on top of meat

or veggies, it can act more like a sauce. Here are some of our favourites to help make your next backyard bash even tastier.

Haloumi

A unique one! Instead of melting with heat, haloumi gets a nice caramelized crust on the outside, which completely changes the flavour to give this cheese a savoury bite. Grill it up for the cheese lovers in your life, and serve it hot. If it’s sticking to the pan or grill, just be patient - it will release when it’s ready!

Smoked Gouda

If you want to add a little hint of smoky flavour without an afternoon spent tending to your smoker, smoked cheese is a great choice. While cheddar has become the default with burgers and beer, gouda plays nicely with many of the same flavours while bringing a little more of its own mildly sweet, smoky personality.

Oaxaca

If Oaxaca reminds you of string cheese, you are right! This Mexican cheese, also called Quesillo, is made into strands that are wrapped into its distinctive ball shape. This is the perfect cheese for quesadillas or melted into dips, and the mild flavour makes it ideal for kids as well. All cheeses provided for photography and sampling by Worldwide Specialty Foods Ltd.

Buchette Chevre Des Alpes

Those who love goat cheese will be impressed and delighted by these little medallions of fresh flavour. Try Buchette with grilled portobello mushrooms or even grilled apricots and peaches as they come into season. This soft cheese doesn’t need much heat, so add it after the food comes off the bbq.

Smoked Blue Cheese

Smoking blue cheese intensifies the nutty flavours and brings out a sweetness that makes this a favourite. Sharp and intense, there are so many places this cheese works well, but with a special cheese sometimes it’s best to give it room to shine - mixed with a little butter and spooned generously on top of a perfect steak. Eager to try new things, Dan balances his love of cooking with his love of eating, and can be found scouring the city for new restaurants and recipes to share.


Berry Bounty:

Cooking up New Flavours with Haskap Berries by SHERYL SHERYL NORMANDEAU NORMANDEAU by

Celebrate summer with a fruity splash! Haskap berries, also known as honeyberries, are an edible member of the honeysuckle family – and they are making a huge statement in gardens and kitchens across Canada. The flavour of haskap berries can be described as a juicy, slightly tart combination of raspberries and blueberries. They are an extremely versatile ingredient, ideal for use in pies and pastries, jellies and jams, and as a savoury complement to meat, poultry, and fish dishes. Haskap berries freeze well Haskap berries are easy to freeze for later use. Place washed fresh berries on a baking sheet that has been covered with a sheet of parchment paper. Place the baking sheet in a freezer for at least three hours or until the berries are frozen solid. Pack them into a freezer-safe container and return to the freezer for up to three months. Don’t thaw before using, as they can become mushy. Haskap berries are wonderful in morning smoothies (or anytime)… A refreshing, delicious juice If you own a juicer, haskap berries are good candidates for a healthy, refreshing drink. Mix haskap and apple juice together

over crushed ice for a real treat. If it’s five o’clock somewhere, up the ante with 1 oz of vodka. If you don’t have a juicer, combine 1 cup (100 g) of fresh berries with ½ cup (120 mL) water and mash the berries with a potato masher or hand blender. Strain the liquid through a fine-meshed sieve and use in your favourite recipe.

For the sauce: 1 tsp (5 mL) sesame/safflower oil ¼ cup shallot, minced 4 small garlic cloves, minced 2 Tbs fresh ginger, minced 3 cups (450 g) fresh haskap berries, washed 1/3 cup (80 mL) honey ¼ cup (60 mL) soy sauce 2 Tbs (30 mL) white vinegar 2 Tbs (30 mL) fresh lime juice

Get started cooking and baking with haskap Preheat the oven to 350°F. with these quick, delicious recipes.

1. Place a sheet of parchment paper on a

Pork Meatballs with Haskap Barbecue Sauce

baking sheet and set aside.

Serve these tangy little morsels over a bed of greens or with fluffy, cooked rice. They also make great appetizers.

2. In a medium sized bowl, mix the ground pork and the salt and pepper. Pinch small chunks of meat and roll them into 5 cm balls. Place the meatballs on the baking sheet.

For the meatballs:

3. Bake the meatballs for 25 minutes. Turn

Serves 4

2 cups (450 g) fresh ground pork 1 Tbs salt 1 Tbs pepper

the meatballs once, halfway through baking.

4. In the meantime, prepare the sauce. In a medium sized sauce pan, heat the oil and sauté the shallot, garlic, and ginger over low heat, about 5 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients and bring to a boil. 5. Reduce the heat and simmer on low heat for 20 minutes. 6. Spoon the sauce over the meatballs.

30 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019


Haskap Berry Muffins Serves 6

These flavourful muffins are perfect for tucking into a lunch bag. ¾ cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup almond meal 1 Tbs ground flaxseed or ground chia seed 1 Tbs baking powder ½ cup granulated sugar Pinch of salt 1 egg, beaten ¼ cup butter, melted ½ cup (120 mL) milk ¼ cup (60 mL) haskap berry juice

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place 12 parchment liners in a muffin pan. 2. Mix together flour, almond meal, flaxseed or chia seed, baking powder, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. 3. In a separate small bowl, mix together egg, melted butter, and milk. 4. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and pour in

the liquid ingredients, except egg, butter, and milk. Stir just until combined.

5. Lightly fold in the haskap berry juice, but don’t mix it thoroughly.

This will give a swirl effect in the baked muffin.

6. Pour batter into prepared muffin pan. Bake for 15 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the middle of a muffin comes out clean.

Sheryl Normandeau is a master gardener and writer from Calgary. She’s always on

the lookout for new ways to use fresh garden produce in the kitchen.

NO, YOUR DAD DOESN'T WANT ANOTHER TIE.

Find us Alberta's on www.liquorconnect.com freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019 31


Bring out the Beef by ELYSE CHATTERTON

When I started my training as a butcher, it was beef that held my interest the most. Split into four large quarters, it hung majestically in the fridge - just waiting to be cut, boned and rolled into an amazing array of cuts. Every part of the animal needs something a little different from both the butcher and the cook; a little time to age, a lot of time to cook, a certain way to slice, or simply throw it on the fiery heat of the BBQ. No matter what your preference, there is a cut of beef to suit everyone. Grass Or Grain? Alberta has around 18,000 beef cattle producers who raise some of the best beef worldwide. Many qualities we expect from quality beef are due to the animal’s diet. 32 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

When it comes to beef, you may not have heard the term “finishing”. The finishing process is critical to the distribution of fat around the body of the animal and directly affects the flavour of the meat itself. Grain-finished beef produces wonderful marbling and tender meat with a mild flavour, whereas grass-finished beef has less marbling; this beef tends to have a stronger, gamier flavour and reduced fat cover. When buying beef, feel free to try both grass and grain finished animals to see which you prefer.

All About The Ageing Good beef is a labour of love starting with breed selection, finishing, processing, and the all-important ageing and hanging time. Hanging beef after slaughter improves the flavour of the meat by allowing the natural enzymes to break down the tissue through dry aging. This process also allows the water in the meat to evaporate, concentrating the flavour of the beef. In essence, ageing creates tastier, more tender meat. The magic number of days needed to hang your beef is a very personal and ever-changing factor. Would you hang your beef for 199 days before enjoying your steak? Some chefs are pushing those limits to the extreme, though for at home, 21 days is a good starting point. Some beef can only


be hung for 10-14 days if the fat cover is not significant enough over the meat. This is why long-aged meat is usually grain finished, as there is more fat around each muscle group. You can experiment with home ageing using an empty fridge set to between 1-3º C and a small fan to constantly circulate air. Select a bone-in cut with a good fat covering, such as prime rib or sirloin. Place the beef on the centre rack of the fridge and, with the fan running, leave the beef for 10 days or more. Although it is a fascinating process to watch as the beef changes, in my opinion it is probably advantageous to get to know your butcher and let them do the hard work for you! Ageing is a costly process, as beef needs the correct conditions to age; it also takes up valuable space in the cooler, so you will always pay a little more for aged beef. You can easily make the most of a steak by using a very simple ageing process over a few days in your fridge. Simply place the steak on a rack over a tray and place on an empty shelf in the fridge to enable air to circulate all around the steak. Leave the steak for at least 24 to 48 hours. The difference in flavour is quite significant and a lot friendlier to your budget than store-bought dry-aged steak.

The Fabulous Four The perfect steak is a well-debated subject. Though the very best steak is the one you enjoy the most. Who has time for meat snobbery or steak shaming? Every cut of beef has its individual talents and with the right cooking and preparation, each unique cut can be delicious. Your choice of beef cut will of course change with the season. • Rib Eye Steaks - Closer to the shoulder, rib eye boasts some of the best fat marbling and flavour development of the tender steak cuts on a beef. It can be cut with the bone in or out. I prefer to cook them with the bone in but please leave the tomahawk steaks to the pros, at home they look great on social media, but can be a little costly and unwieldy. • Sirloin Steak - cheaper than many of the premium cuts, with excellent flavour and robust enough to handle the heat of the BBQ. If you can get whole sirloin on the bone, they are an excellent cut for ageing with a good fat cover. The smaller steaks towards the back of the joint are the best. • Skirt Steak - A very underused cut taken from the plate of the beef. Not the most attractive looking steak, it has deep grain lines and can be tough if cooked and cut incorrectly. The perfect cut for bold marinades and strong flavours. Simply sear the steak very quickly over a high heat and slice the meat against the grain to maximize tenderness. • Bavette (Flank) Steak - My personal favourite! It is sometimes known as the Butchers Cut as this was often the steak butchers chose to take home as everyone else had overlooked its potential. Sear the steak over a high heat and cut against the grain on the angle.

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Cooking It Right No matter how great your beef is, how you cook it can be the difference between great steak and wishing you had cooked sausages instead! 1. Choose the right cut - cuts such as tenderloin have no fat and can overcook and dry quickly. Choose forgiving cuts with good marbling. 2. Dry-age in the fridge - the difference 24 hours of drying in the fridge can make is quite significant and I strongly recommend trying it out.

3. Bring to room temperature - take the steak out of the fridge at least 20 minutes before cooking it. If the meat is cold it will cook on the outside before the middle has a chance to get hot. Room temperature meat also absorbs the seasoning better. 4. Smoking hot pan - get it as hot as you can and don’t oil the pan unless you want to fill your kitchen with smoke. Cooking on the BBQ is excellent for steak. 5. Season with salt & pepper - generously season both sides of your steak.

Try with a South American Chimchurri sauce: Simply blitz together: a small bunch parsley 1 tsp fresh oregano (leaves only) 2 garlic cloves 1 peeled shallot

1 tsp dried chili flakes 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil juice and zest of half a lemon 2 tsp (10 mL) red wine vinegar Fat pinch of salt

Perfect Doneness - Cook the steak on each side for 2 ½ to 3 minutes before moving it to allow a caramelized crust to form - the best way to test the steak’s doneness is by touch. Here is my quick test of what meat feels like at each stage of cooking: • Rare: Press the skin at the base of your thumb (palm side up) – hand open. • Medium: Feeling the same place (bottom of your thumb, palm side up) however place your thumb to your middle finger. You will now feel a little more resistance from the meat. • Well done: With your thumb touching your little finger feel the same area of skin at the bottom of your thumb, palm side up. Well-done steak will give you the most resistance when you touch it. Just be aware that cooking steak until well-done will also result in a dryer steak and sometimes can cause a cut to become tough. Let it rest – Allow your steak to rest for at least five minutes in a warm place. Resting allows the muscle fibres to relax and the moisture to redistribute.

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Buying Beef Get to know your butcher and you will get to know your producer. Butchers will often source their meat from many different producers. Good butchers will know where their meat was raised, finished and slaughtered. This allows the buyer to have confidence in the beef they buy and allows the butcher to ensure consistent quality yearround. If you have the space to store frozen meat, buying part of a whole animal (such as a half or quarter animal) is more cost effective. This can also mean you are in direct contact with the producer and can see how the beef was raised. It can also allow you to have more choice for how the beef is cut and packaged. Be prepared to pay more for good beef. Some good butchers to try: Acme Meats, Edmonton (780) 433-1812 Real Deal Meats, Edmonton 780-469-3325

36 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

D’Arcy’s Meats, St. Albert (780) 418-1200 Master Meats, Calgary 403-277-5002 Bon Ton Meat Market, Calgary 403- 282-3132 Urban Butcher, Calgary 403-245-6662 The Better Butcher, Calgary 403-252-7171 Direct Farm Suppliers: Nature's Green Acres, Viking 780-336-2265 farmer@naturesgreenacres.com Red Tail Farms, Castor (403) 430-0160 redtailfarms1@gmail.com Serben Farms, Smokey Lake 780-656-5244 info@serbenfarms.com Top Grass, Calgary 403-242-5530 info@topgrass.ca TK Ranch, Langdon 403-854-8532 info@tkranch.com

Elyse is a classically trained English butcher, enthusiastic baker, passionate gin drinker, and food blogger. She started work for her family as an apprentice butcher at the age of 14. Follow Elyse at lifewithoutlemons.com and @elysechatt.


Spice It Up – Baked Potatoes by MALLORY FRAYN

There’s nothing more classic than a baked potato. Served as a side to a hearty steak dinner or simply as a meal in and of itself, it checks off all the boxes. Filling, easy to make, and endlessly customizable, you can make it taste however you want it to, depending on what you add to the mix. However, done poorly, baked potatoes are inherently bland, if not utterly blasé. Thankfully, these tips can help you to stay away from that possibility and ensure that your baked potatoes are everything you want them to be. Let’s spice them up! 1. Not all potatoes are created equal A good baked potato starts with a good potato, but a stellar baked potato starts with a stellar potato. Starchy varieties like

Russets are typically the spud of choice because they bake up super fluffy. That being said, if a waxier, creamier potato like Yukon Gold is your preference, there’s no saying you can’t eat it as a baked potato. The same goes for yams and sweet potatoes. If you usually choose these over regular potatoes, you’re probably going to like them more as a baked potato too. 2. How you cook the potato matters Normally you wouldn’t just throw a whole, unadulterated potato in the oven; you’d break it down into more manageable pieces before roasting. But given that the whole

point of a baked potato is to keep the entire thing intact, start by poking some holes in it to ensure that the spud doesn’t explode as it cooks. Next, rub the skin with some oil so that it doesn’t get too tough. Put it on a wire rack (this increases the circulation of air around the potato and helps it cook more evenly) and cook it in a moderate temperature oven for about an hour. 350º F is the sweet spot to facilitate even cooking and crispy skin. Or wrap your potato in foil and cook along with your meat on the BBQ, turning often for around an hour or until soft. Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019 37


3. Fluff it up Eating a baked potato can be quite the process. Often you eat off the first layer of toppings only to expose the bland potato underneath, requiring you to reload cheese, bacon bits, and the like.

cheese, with a sprinkle of herbed bread crumbs to finish - Vegetarian baked sweet potatoes with roasted chickpeas and feta cheese - Chowder baked potatoes (for this one you may want to hollow out the potatoes a bit to make more room for the soup) - A rich and spicy chilli con carne always perks up a baked potato; top with grated cheese or sour cream - Breakfast baked potatoes with an egg baked into them and topped with crispy bacon or sausage bits - For dessert, marshmallow and chocolate baked sweet potatoes, broiled until golden, almost like a s’mores

One solution to this is to scoop the flesh out of the potatoes first, season it to your liking (at the most basic, salt, pepper, and butter will do the trick), and then put the seasoned potatoes back into their skins before topping. This ensures that every bite will contain properly seasoned, rather than bland, potato. 4. The toppings Toppings are arguably the most important part of a baked potato. In many ways, the potato itself is just a vessel for copious amounts of salty, fatty garnishes. As much as there’s nothing wrong with keeping it traditional with sour cream, bacon, and chives, this can also get redundant if you never switch things up.

5. To bake or not to bake Your choice of topping for your baked potato will guide whether or not you should return it to the oven before devouring it. If cheese is in your game plan, broiling can facilitate melting and browning it.

Given that potatoes go with virtually anything, you’ve got an infinite number of choices, so it can be useful to think thematically in figuring out where you want to go. For example, a nacho-inspired baked potato could include melted cheese, black beans, shredded chicken, salsa, guacamole, and sour cream.

You can even do this before adding other toppings that you don’t want to cook, like herbs or avocado. My only other words of wisdom are to take this additional cooking into consideration before chowing down. After all, you don’t want a burnt tongue to get in the way of enjoying all of your hard work!

Some other ideas include: - French onion soup baked potatoes with caramelized onions and melted Gruyere

Mallory is a Calgary freelance writer and grad student now living, learning and eating in Montreal. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter and Instagram @cuzilikechoclat

38 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019


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BBQ Culture:

Catching Fire in Alberta Story and photography by CARMEN CHENG

by SHERYL NORMANDEAU Summer grilling season is upon us!

Canadians often use the terms “BBQ” and “grilling” interchangeably, but most of the time when you’re cooking a quick meal on your gas or charcoal grill, you are “grilling”. “BBQ” is generally cooking meat low and slow, indirectly over fire for hours. It is synonymous with the southern states, where traditions run deep and there are feuds over techniques, meats, and sauces. BBQ culture has steadily grown and evolved across Canada. Rob Reinhardt, President of the Canadian BBQ Society (CBBQS) says, “BBQ culture has definitely shifted! Every year, I’m witnessing more folks entering the world of competitive BBQ, purchasing

smokers, and seeing more interest in BBQ classes.” The roster of BBQ restaurants in Alberta is also growing, with the likes of Hayden Block, Paddy’s Barbeque and Brewery, and Prairie Dog Brewing in Calgary, joining the ranks of long-standing Big T’s BBQ, Holy Smoke BBQ, and Palomino Smokehouse. In Edmonton, you can get your fix at eateries such as Meat, Sloppy Hoggs, and Smokehouse BBQ. You can even enjoy authentic BBQ after a day of mountain adventures in Jasper, where Tennessee Chef, Stuart Allen, is serving up authentic southern BBQ at Maligne Canyon Wilderness Kitchen.

Maligne Canyon Wilderness Kitchen Alberta currently leads the country with the most active BBQ teams and sanctioned two-day competitions. But while many events are open to the public, most will not offer samples from competitors. BBQ competition is serious work involving the many nuances of seasoning, temperatures, meat selection, and timing. Competitors select the best of the best to put in front of the judges, which might mean cooking several briskets, pork shoulders, or multiple racks of ribs.

Alberta leads the country with the most active BBQ teams Since BBQ has a long cook time, competitors set up 24 hours before serving the judges. They live, breathe, and eat BBQ for weeks before a competition, to perfect their timing and seasoning. If competitors are traveling out of town, they have the added challenge of organizing their equipment, trailers, ingredients, even tables and chairs, yet serious competitors generally agree that there is an addictive quality to BBQ contests.

SmellaQue 40 Alberta'sbrisket freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

The CBBQS website provides rankings for Pro-Series competitors based on aggregated scores of the team’s best four contests in the year. Russell and Janice Smella, the current Canadian BBQ National Champions, were hooked on BBQ after touring Texas and enjoying phenomenal BBQ meals. Although


International neither come from a culinary background, award when theywinning returned home, they acquired a Shulba Lorraine artistand smoker began to learn how to recreate thespecializing flavours they in loved from the South.

Kansas City Barbeque Society. His team proudly took home a coveted Jack Daniels Whisky Barrel award.

love your home!

Although it has been a few years custom commissions world. in the into your colour bring was entrenched Five years’ later, SmellaQue is highly regarded since Allemeier for your home. on the Canadian BBQ circuit. Invited to compete at the American Royal in Kansas out her Check City, they came 19th out of 462 teams portfolio! competing in the ribs category, and finished 28th of 250 teams at the esteemed Houston Livestock and Rodeo's World Championship BBQ Contest.

competitions, his passion for BBQ is still evident: “Cooking over wood is still the quintessential way of cooking… there’s something primal and rewarding about building and cooking over fire.”

NAIT BBQ team, photograph courtesy NAIT

Allemeier acknowledges that the camaraderie amongst competitors drew him in. The Smellas agree, it’s the friendships and the Chef Michael Allemeier is well known in the support from their “BBQ family” that keep culinary industry, and one of three Canadian @BlueBugStudiosLShulbaArtistDesigner 780-919-9627 them coming back year over year. chefs awarded the distinguished title of @lorraine_shulba_artist Certified Master Chef. He has held Executive Chef positions with acclaimed establishments, “We are united by the competition, but and is currently an Instructor of Culinary Arts competitors are extremely supportive of each other. This is most evident at awards at SAIT. the biggest cheers are for rookie teams! We genuinely celebrate each other's successes.” Years ago, while preparing for a BBQ episode on TV show “Cook like a Chef”, Allemeier In Edmonton, NAIT is championing BBQ knew he needed to learn more about BBQ education, forming a partnership with techniques. Connecting with Ron Shewchuk, Porkapalooza BBQ Festival to host a BBQ a seasoned BBQ competitor, was a catalyst class. They have also launched a competitive and he got involved in contests, finding BBQ team of staff and students from the them a cathartic experience from his role as culinary program. Students can apply and are Executive Chef. selected after an internal contest. He was invited to join a team in the prestigious Jack Daniel’s World Championship Nigel Webber, an Instructor of Culinary Arts and NAIT BBQ team member, says that part Invitational Barbecue Competition, where of the learning for students is not buying a 80 BBQ teams, all winners from local rub or sauce off the shelf, but to learn how to competitions, are invited to compete by

International award winning artist Lorraine Shulba specializing in custom commissions for your home.

make them. They encourage experimentation with flavour profiles; students assist instructors in developing BBQ recipes and a time management plan. The NAIT team has achieved some outstanding results; at the Calgary Stampede’s inaugural BBQ on Elbow, they were awarded Reserve Grand Champion, taking home the first prize for Ribs, Chicken, and Baked Beans.

www.LSHULBA.com

Here are some upcoming family friendly contests. For a full list, visit cbbqs.ca. Porkapalooza BBQ Festival, Edmonton, June 15-16, porkapalooza.ca Battle River BBQ Showdown, Camrose, August 10-11, battleriverbbqshowdown.com BBQ on the Bow, Calgary, August 31-September 1, bbqonthebow.com Carmen Cheng comes from a long line of food lovers and notorious over-orderers. She loves traveling, learning about different cuisines, and sharing her food adventures on social media. 

is... nt for the soul. artnourishme

@BlueBugStudiosLShulbaArtistDesigner @lorraine_shulba_artist 41

Check out her portfolio!

www.LSHULBA.com Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019 41


Alberta Beer Tourism Takes Off

Outside having a small retail space and maybe a tasting room, these huge beer factories didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want non-employees inside their buildings; tripping over hoses, touching valves, and otherwise mucking up the works.

by DAVID NUTTALL

As tourism became an industry in the mid1800s, breweries in Europe established beer gardens to draw in the public while still keeping them outside the building.

Over the centuries, as breweries grew from small commercial entities into Mega Breweries, they somehow lost their connection to the consumer.

In North America, major breweries stood as monoliths on the edges of downtowns, seemingly shielded from the outside world. But when craft brewing emerged in the 1980s, these (much) smaller ventures realized they needed to market themselves differently from the big boys, and presented a kinder, gentler brewery which welcomed their patrons inside, with the tasting room and brewery tours becoming a crucial marketing tool. As larger locales began to include multiple breweries, beer tourism ensued, and by the 1990s cities like Seattle, Denver, Portland, and San Diego in the U.S., and Vancouver, Victoria, Toronto, and Montreal in Canada had companies dedicated to taking people around to local breweries. Now, in 2019, Alberta has joined the club. This provinceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rapid expansion from around 20 breweries in 2015 to over 100 today has brought beer tourism with it. After testing the waters in 2017-18, several enterprises now have organized excursions for both the local and international traveler. Government agencies have also become involved by working with local breweries, meaderies, wineries, cideries, and distilleries, to promote and help coordinate tours. Travel Alberta (travelalberta.com) has designed multi-day, self-guided trails, called Discover Craft Beer, for both northern and southern Alberta. Tourism Calgary (visitcalgary.com), Edmonton Tourism (exploreedmonton.com), and other regional travel boards provide up-to-date information on local tours.

42 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019


Here is a list of different organized tours in Alberta as of April 2019:

WALKING TOURS It helps to have a concentration of breweries in a small area, as there is a limit to how far people will walk for a beer. Right now, Calgary leads in walkable areas, but it’s inevitable other locations will follow. Urban Crawl Tours (urbancrawl.ca) are in their second year and have three different two-hour walking tours visiting three breweries in each of the Brewmuda Triangle, Downtown, or other areas such as Inglewood/Ramsey or the Barley Belt, for $70 per person. The new Walk The YYC (walktheyyc.com) has a four-hour tour for $120, which visits five Calgary breweries and includes a BBQ platter, and they will supply transportation between distant breweries.

PEDAL TOURS Europeans invented the 15 seat “bike” which allow passengers to pedal themselves (with a guide who steers) from brewery to brewery. Urban Peddle Tours (urbanpedaltours.com) started in Edmonton and has expanded to Calgary. This year, two new companies have joined in: Canadian Craft Tours (canadiancrafttours.ca) and Pedal Pub (pedalpub.com).

Alberta Craft Tours (albertacrafttours.com) operates only in the Edmonton area with a variety of tours, including a downtown walking cocktail tour. The tours do go outside Edmonton, as far south as Leduc. Prices range from $95-$150. Canmore Brewery Tours (canmorebrewerytours.com) provides tours throughout the Bow Valley, visiting a variety of manufacturers. You can even add in rafting if you wish. Prices range from $100-$110 per person. Bust Loose! in Calgary (bustloose.com) occasionally organizes brewery crawls around Calgary and area. Check their website for more information. All the tours above have several options; some include sample flights and food, and all have a tour of at least one brewery on the route. They will all take private bookings or even design custom tours; just contact them to make arrangements. If you want to plan your own outing, most breweries offer tours of their facility, some on a regular schedule, some you must book in advance. Check to see what they provide and if there is a cost.

Between them there are multiple tour options available with prices ranging from $35-$50 per seat. You will visit 2-3 breweries in 2-3 hours and yes, there are seats for non-pedaling passengers.

BUS TOURS Canadian Craft Tours also has 14 person minibuses available in both Edmonton and Calgary, which travel to (usually) three breweries and/or distilleries over a 3-4 hour period. They have numerous options, costing $89-$99 per person.

44 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

Courtesy Big Rock Brewery

Find a copy of The Alberta Craft Beer Guide (abbeerguide.com), which publishes a hard copy book quarterly with maps and information. Tourism Calgary prints a Beer Map of the city, while YYC Beer regularly updates their online version (yycbeer.ca). The Local Good (thelocalgood.ca) is the best source for an online Edmonton brewery map. Beer tourism has become part of the culinary tourism and the eat/drink local movement. People have a renewed interest in seeing where their food products come from and how they are made. While viewed globally, tourism is inherently local, which fits right into craft beer’s mantra. In the future, look for bus trips outside the cities, more walking tours, maybe even rail tours. A beer hotel (the Drinkle Hotel, thedrinklehotel.com) is in its planning stages. While our beer culture grows, tourism will follow along with it, as more Albertans and the rest of the world discover and enjoy our locally produced products. David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @ abfbrewed.


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Making The Case: Backyard British Columbia by TOM FIRTH While the economy ever-so-slowly drags itself upwards, once again many Albertans might look to a staycation rather than extensive travels abroad. As someone who generally spends a lot of time in the Okanagan, it’s almost another world for many. Sandy beaches, beautiful vistas, incredible restaurants… and yes, worldclass wineries.

views, interesting experiences, and always the possibility that the winemaker or owners might be behind the tasting bar!

The wines each year are better and better, competing with the best in the world in many instances, but also the winery experience is fantastic with captivating

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

This month, we felt it best to get into the vacation state of mind and share some lovely and unique wines from British Columbia that aren’t too hard to find, and aren’t too hard to enjoy either….

Black Hills 2017 Alias, Okanagan Valley Definitely not a dry wine, this blend of seven different varietals is all about those prominent, summery fruits and zesty acids. While very good and quite well balanced, it’s a wine better enjoyed than discussed at length. Serve chilled, outdoors, and with whatever is on the menu. CSPC +129114 $27-29

Monte Creek 2018 Riesling British Columbia Rife with mineral tones and lime/citrus aromas, who doesn’t love a riesling when the mercury rises? With nearly 10 grams of residual sugars it runs on the sweeter side for most riesling on our shelves, but that sweetness supports those great fruits, and the right amount of acids. Very refreshing, and very tasty. CSPC +782542 $20-22

Mount Boucherie 2016 Pinot Noir Similkameen Valley

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine. Courtesy BCfreshest Wine Institute 46 Alberta's food & beverage magazine - June 2019

46

While pinot noir is good anytime of year and in any circumstance, it’s summer that works best for me. Lighter bodied and well supported by acidity, it just works so well over the hotter months. Spicy and herbal on the nose with cherry fruits, the consistent palate brings a touch of protein-friendly tannins too. I’d match with hamburgers or even better - a steak. CSPC + 807653 About $27-29


Sandhill 2018 Rosé, Okanagan Valley We seriously don’t drink enough rosé. A blend of gamay with about 17 percent merlot, look for soft berry fruits and delicate floral characters on the nose with a pinch of peppery strawberry, while flavours are bright and fruit-driven. Loving the acid zing and long, dry finish – perfect for pairing with pork or light seafood dishes. CSPC +736523 $20-22

Quails’ Gate 2017 Stewart Family Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley

Black Hills 2017 Viognier, Okanagan Valley

There is just something magical about barrel fermented, barrel aged chardonnay. Juicy lemons, cider apples, and oak characters on the nose lead into a finely expressive chardonnay with herb, spice, and warming notes. Might be best on a cooler evening with roasted poultry or pork-based dishes. CSPC +639641 $42-45

One of my favourite viogniers made in the valley, this is not an easy grape to get right. The nose is packed with apricot and stone fruits, with citrus, white flowers, and a rich - almost decadent - palate leading into a slightly bitter, almost oily finish. This is the sort of wine that shows what Canadian wines are capable of. CSPC +746273 About $25-27

Bartier Brothers 2017 Cerqueira Vineyard Semillon, Okanagan Valley

Quails’ Gate 2017 Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley

Monte Creek 2018 Rosé British Columbia

Semillon is usually associated with the Hunter Valley in Australia or in Bordeaux, France, but I’m happy to share that it also makes remarkable wine here in Canada. Bartier’s shows off that lemon and lanolin with mild notes of honey. Delicious from start to finish, try pairing with anything a little “difficult” or Asian-styled dishes. CSPC +244137 $28

The flagship red at Quails’ Gate, the SFR reserve isn’t made every year, but is always stunning. Aromas are deep and subtle cranberry and cherry, with layers of spice and herb. Quite young to drink, with easy tannins and tightly wound fruits. Drink now with great beef or grilled salmon, or wait 5 or so years for a smoother experience. CSPC +1076851 $50-55

Still quite new to the market, Monte Creek is offering a number of gems to Albertans. The 2018 rosé (the 2017 won a Judges Selection at the 2018 Alberta Beverage Awards) is darkly coloured for rosé, perfect for those raspberry fruits and spicy aromas. Quite dry, and fruitdriven, this would work very well with salads, grilled fish, or pork tenderloins. CSPC +880054 $20-22

Culmina 2018 Unicus Grüner Veltliner Okanagan Valley

Mount Boucherie 2017 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley

Bartier Brothers 2017 Rosé Okanagan Valley

Every. Single. Year. I look forward to trying the new vintage of Unicus. As the vines mature, they grow in complexity and always manage to show off those green fruits and white pepper spice. Herbal notes, pressed apples, and a hint of ginger are starting to show too. Palate is quite dry, perfectly balanced, and would complement Asian cuisines or grilled pork easily. CSPC +773529 $36-38

When did pinot gris really start getting so interesting? (Hopefully) gone are the days of bland gris! Mt Boucherie’s is sourced from Okanagan and Similkameen fruits and hosts yellow and red apple fruits with a touch of citrus and flowery aromas. Rich and creamy on the palate with a prominent citrus and stone fruit profile. Match with grilled poultry or a hot evening on the deck. CSPC +602094 $24-26

A blend of several grapes with the colour coming from about 11 percent cabernet franc, this rosé seems more of an off-dry to dry aromatic white. Look for sweet tropical fruits, and honey on the nose, while a touch of sugar on the palate bolsters the fruits, which have a touch of that cab franc shining through. Perfectly crushable, it’s good to have one or two bottles on hand this summer. CSPC +804932 $22-24

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019 47


Etcetera...

Balsamic Vinegar Sphere Behold - the world's first solid, gratable, balsamic sphere! It’s such a clever idea; with all the flavour of 100 percent balsamic vinegar from its home in Modena, Italy, the shavings stay where you grate them without running into your food and turning everything into a brown, albeit delicious, mess. Clean, and easy to use, and store in its sealable jar, you’ll wonder why nobody ever thought of this before. We’re very glad they have now. $16.99 at Urban Fare.

Eau Claire Distillery Canned Cocktails There is no denying the enthusiasm for premade or canned cocktails. Not saying they are hard to make, but they better be damned (or is it canned?) good. Along with Parlour Gin & Tonic and EquinOx Mule, comes Eau Claire’s Cherry Gin Collins, striking the right balance between cherries and gin (very refreshing). EquinOx is getting some serious play, while the classic G&T is just that… classic. The line-up is perfect for summer, and anywhere glass might not be welcome, like the beach or pool. 4-pack cans, $12-15.

48 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

Save Me the Plums

Pilot’s Friend Organic Fruit Tonic

No one was more surprised than Ruth Reichl to be offered the top job at Gourmet Magazine, but the benefits were huge, and the challenge of transforming the magazine she’d been reading since she was eight years old, too much to resist. Reichl’s story is a riveting romp through her 10 years at Gourmet, and if you’re interested in food and food writing, you won’t be able to put it down. It’s a different age; an age of extravagance and indulgence, and oh boy, are we jealous of those times! Appetite by Random House, $32.

Looking for a little boost in the morning, afternoon, or before a big night, but can’t quite bring yourself to drink a neon energy drink full of sugar? Pilot’s Friend aims to fill that need, containing no artificial sweeteners, no artificial flavours, and no preservatives. It’s also vegan, organic, and GMO-free. An all-natural energy drink without the crash is a tall order, but this small can really delivers. It won’t make you a fighter pilot, but at least you can stay awake and focused like one! 150 mL around $5.

Hellish Relish It sounds scary doesn’t it? But as producers, She Devil Delights from near Vernon, BC, say: it’s sweet, sassy and a little bad-assy! Made with organic Okanagan chillies, onions, apple cider vinegar, mustard seed, and salt, the relish is gluten-, preservativeand GMO-free, and we love it as it’s so tasty on… pretty much everything! And there’s a mild relish and sugar-free relish too. $7-$8 at Italian Centre Shops, Sunterra Market, and good stores across the province.


HAPPY FATHERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; S D AY


and sent it to him. And right away he sent back requesting more, then he started retweeting them,” she says. “They got into the SNL world, and Gordon Ramsay - that's how the celebrities noticed them. I don't think you can do it now because it was such a new thing then. It was really luck and happenstance,” she adds. Maclean's took notice in 2011, and that Christmas Stobo had over 2,000 orders - yet no money. But in 2012, she and Michael Green were selected as Calgary arts ambassadors. They went to Ottawa on Canada Day, she did murals and events, and Travel Alberta sent her across the country.

Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON Painting by MANDY STOBO

“With Bad Portraits I really wanted to highlight humour because we can all be sad. We all go through so much, so I wanted to commit my life to making beautiful work that makes people happy,” says artist Mandy Stobo. Fourth generation Calgarian, it seemed a normal childhood for Stobo and her sister, but unbeknown to their parents, their babysitter abused them for six years from when Stobo was three years old. “It was shocking for my parents, and so, so sad, but that moulded a lot of who we are,” she explains. She developed anorexia, and spent time in psychiatric wards, but says: ”There was another level of abuse in there.” It’s been a continuing theme throughout Stobo’s life, and as a result she has complex PTSD, but when she was sick she would draw a lot and paint with her mom. In 2002, Stobo moved with her boyfriend

50 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

to Australia, then to Cambodia where she ended up in hospital; and on recovering, she moved to Vancouver. She married, and baby Jack soon followed, but the marriage didn’t last. She was 22 years old with a baby, but no money and no education. She won scholarships to ACAD, but they had no daycare; she was pumping milk in between classes and working at night when Jack was sleeping, with 10 hours of homework to do too. But social media was just starting at this time, and she didn't see any art there. And she’d been reading about the 10,000-hour rule. Perfect profile pictures were everywhere, so Stobo started turning them into portraits. “I did Andy Samberg from the Lonely Island,

“It was this amazing snowball,” she explains. “Stephen Harper has Bad Portraits. Trudeau has Bad Portraits. I'm just so lucky. I think at this point I've done 40,000, and I’ve decided to say yes to everything. I do film and television for their art departments, which gives me an education as I do things that I’ve never done.” Stobo did sell her work before Bad Portraits, but it was angsty and emotional. “I love pop art, and I love mixing up the colours, and wanted to highlight Alberta and Canadian animals in a more joyful, contemporary way,” she says. And now, on Dave Kelly Live, she’s been live painting on green screens with animations. “I want to see my work come to life because it's alive in my head, and I love seeing it.” So what bottle does Stobo save for a special occasion? She has a bottle of Mezcal Jaral De Berrio, from Guanajuato in Mexico. “I love it, and you can feel it, and I love that too. I love it when I have a big session or a long day, or a big event like last week when we had a show with Jann Arden,” says Stobo. “And so my favourite thing is to come home and have a glass of it. I love it because it just sets me into the place I need to be, and calms me down. And it's so, so wonderful.”


L AKEFRONT DINING THE EXPERIENCE BEGINS June 11th, 2019

chairmans.ca

Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019 51


Sharp Knives Rock

CALGARY: 1316 9th Avenue SE • 403-514-0577 • @knifewearYYC EDMONTON: 10820 Whyte Avenue • 587-521-2034 • @knifewearYEG knifewear.com 52 Alberta's freshest food & beverage magazine - June 2019

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2019-05-21 12:48 PM

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Culinaire #8:2 (June2019)  

Alberta's freshest food and beverage magazine, for dining in, dining out, wine, beer, spirits and cocktails. June is our BBQ and Grilling is...

Culinaire #8:2 (June2019)  

Alberta's freshest food and beverage magazine, for dining in, dining out, wine, beer, spirits and cocktails. June is our BBQ and Grilling is...

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