CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES :: VOLUME 4 NO.2 :: JUNE 2015
Fresh Eats & Cool Drinks
5 OKANAGAN EATS THE LIGHTER SIDE OF ITALIAN
Find Your Best Picnic l Summer Wheat Beers l Beyond YYC: Portland
REAL SHOW STOPPERS!
TheShowWines.com ©2015 Rebel Wine, St. Helena, CA 94574
15 20 12
VOLUME 4 / ISSUE #2 JUNE 2015
One Loaf of Bread at a Time In a city full of entrepreneurial success stories, Sidewalk Citizen’s journey is legendary by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
Okanagan Eats There’s more to BC wine country than wine - Culinary treats abound in this chef’s paradise by Jeannette Montgomery
Beyond YYC: Portland A city known for roses, bridges and food trucks – Portland is also the ‘Mighty Gastropolis’ by BJ Oudman
Find Your Best: Picnic Where’s your best spot to dine outdoors? by Dan Clapson, Mallory Frayn, Laura Lushington, and Diana Ng
Fat-Washed Spirits The essence of camping - in your cocktail by Rebecca Davis
26 What’s On Your Charcuterie Platter? Inspiration for creating the perfect board by Dan Clapson
40 Making the Case It’s a great time of year to try a new-to-you wine by Tom Firth
Salutes and Shout Outs
42 Hefe Hefe, Hooray For Wheat Beers! Weizen, Weissbier, Witbier – wheat ales are for summertime quaffing by David Nuttall
Chefs’ Tips – and Tricks!
20 Step-By-Step Semi Freddo 22 Soup Kitchen
50 Open That Bottle Patricia Koyich of SAIT and Il Sogno by Linda Garson
On the Cover: With many thanks for the cover photograph to Jordan Gooden, jordangooden.com, the first Albertan photographer to be displayed in the Louvre in Paris. Congratulations Jordan! Many thanks too to ChefBar’s Shaun Desaulniers for the delicious salad and patio, and liquid chef Brice Peressini for his refreshing cocktail.
Letter From The Editor It’s been quite a month for Calgary’s dining scene with so many hatches and dispatches - ten new eateries have opened their doors and several have closed. And it hasn’t ended there, we know of at least six more imminent openings and sadly, more closures. It’s wonderful to see Calgary’s cocktail culture forging ahead, with new restaurants and upscale snacking menus, and there’s more craft brewing, diners, and dessert locations to enjoy. We support all Calgary eateries, and urge you to do the same! Cheers! Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief
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94 points by Wine Enthusiast Magazine, this We really would like to understand our elegant and readers better to know what topics and generous wine is features you’d like to see in Culinaire a superb example magazine, so we’d be very grateful if from the you would fill in our short survey at excellent 2004 culinairemagazine.ca. It’s anonymous, so vintage. we won’t even know ourselves who the answers belong to. And there’s a prize at the end We have superb prize draws for all of the month those who complete the survey - and for all entries - a then separately, let us have their email Cherrywood address afterwards! Forno Party for 20 guests This month, in your home, there’s a worth $600! chance to win Cherrywood a bottle of Forno will bring the forno and all the Veuve Clicquot ingredients for the food to your house, Vintage Rosé and you’ll learn how to use it 2004, worth to cook three varieties of pizza, over $100! rubbed BBQ chicken wings and Wow! Awarded broccolini for everyone!
CALGARY / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson email@example.com Sales Consultant: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 firstname.lastname@example.org Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson email@example.com Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth firstname.lastname@example.org Digital Media: Mallory Frayn email@example.com Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Rebecca Davis Natalie Findlay Mallory Frayn Ingrid Kuenzel Laura Lushington Karen Miller Jeannette Montgomery Diana Ng David Nuttall BJ Oudman
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Our Contributors < BJ OUDMAN
BJ Oudman is a physical therapist by trade, owning a downtown Calgary health care clinic for 14 years. She decided in her semiretirement at the age of 40 to pursue her passion for food and wine. With a Level 2 certification from the International Sommelier Guild, she has been an investor in the private wine market as well as advising clients. She travels the world between consulting in both physical therapy and wine.
< REBECCA DAVIS
Rebecca’s passion for wine and spirits started early. Completing her sommelier certification in 2008, she instinctively moved her passion to cocktails. She is a frequent competition bartender, a regular contributor to justcocktails.org and a director of the CPBA. She loves to travel with her work, attending the Manhattan Cocktail Classic and the Cointreau Academy in France. On her days off, you can find her enjoying a classic Old Fashioned.
Karen is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook for Culinaire reviews. She claims to have been on the “know where your food comes from” bandwagon sooner than most. Always willing to impart knowledge to absolutely anybody who asks, Karen is practical but creative, having taught many styles of cooking classes. She was also part of the Calgary Dishing girls (producing two cookbooks).
3303 Boucherie Rd. West Kelowna 1-800-420-9463 | quailsgate.com
Salutes... Double whammy for Poutine Week This year’s Poutine Week more than doubled their numbers from last year, selling 5,000 poutines and giving 5,000 free meals to people in need, thanks to Mealshare! Original Joes sold the most with 496 poutines,
Wurst 284, Perogy Boyz 264, and Bank & Baron 257. Poutine Crawl was won by Charcut. Congrats to all!
The search for Canada’s best cooks Calling all cooks! Have you registered for the Canadian Food Championships,
July 21-25 in Edmonton? It’s the only qualifying Canadian competition for November’s World Food Championships, with the top two from each of seven categories competing in Florida. Category partners and pantry food suppliers also welcome! Check out canadianfoodchampionships.ca.
and Shout Outs... So many top-quality new eateries opened last month, so we can only give you a brief summary of the best - look forward to more in-depth features later…
Start your day off right … or call it lunch or dinner at Beltliner, you can drop by any time of day! This is no ordinary diner, as evidenced from the first bite of Exec Chef Shawn Greenwood’s comfort food dishes. These plates are chef-driven with locally sourced, organic and house-made ingredients, and it shows. Don’t be shy, try the Moulded Yolks and Caviar with House Caraway Crackers, and you’ll wonder what took you so long to get here, or choose from all day breakfast items and classics like the excellent bennies, grilled 4-cheese with tomato soup, rabbit pot pie… and a lot more!
Here’s the Proof Cocktail culture has arrived in Calgary, and now we have… Proof! When two trusted experts, Jesse Willis and Jeff Jamieson, travel and see other cities enjoying creative cocktails, and dream about opening their own cocktail bar, you know you’re in for a good thing. Add in to the mix Nathan Head of Milk Tiger Lounge, and Tony Migliarese of Cilantro, with a dash of Tino Longpre of Model Milk, shake over ice and you have a winning formula. This is a place that 6
people come for cocktails - and stay for the food. Favourites are the boards, and a steam bun filled with pork belly and homemade kimchi – yum! On a busy night they serve 340 cocktails, and many plates sell out, so you know it’s fresh. No reservations at this 60 seat bar, but superb customer service means they call you when your table is ready.
Saving the best… If you're more of a beer drinker, then you’ll be heading down to see what’s behind those yellow doors on 11th Ave – and you’ll be impressed! Last Best’s taproom is the old District/Amsterdam Rhino, completely refurbished and beautiful – and seating around 300 people in and out, with a soon-tobe barber’s shop and private room downstairs too. Choose from the regular Last Best beers or one of the six one-off/seasonals only available here.
There’s twelve taps, with one reserved for nitrogenated Fratello coffee and another for a local guest beer. And then there’s Corporate Exec Chef Geoff Miller’s and Chef de Cuisine Adam Trotchie’s menu! Starters and beer snacks star here, many made with beer and featuring local producers. The sturgeon, and knuckle sandwiches are flying out the door. We’re also excited for the copper still ready to make whiskey, and white spirits to follow!
Free as a bird You’re a wine lover? Then you’ll want to be down on 17th Avenue at the brand new Pigeonhole. There’s more than meets the eye at this sister restaurant to Model Milk. Justin Leboe has had a hand in all areas and it shows, but chef de cuisine Garrett Martin is doing an admirable job – these are no ordinary snacks to accompany your glass! You’ll be dazzled by seriously good small plates to share, on old English porcelain crockery, and desserts in vintage bone
china teacups. The menu is dynamic and changing regularly, some of the opening dishes are already gone, as nettles and morels aren’t in season long! I’ll settle for the exquisite Chick Pea Panisse and Tuna Crudo, thanks! The extensive and always-changing wine list is organic, biodynamic, and non-manipulated wine – just what we want to put in our bodies!
ChefBar Love wine and cocktails? Then stay on 11th Avenue and pop in to ChefBar, you’re going to be well fed and happy! Brice Peressini’s cocktails and seasoned chef Shaun Desaulniers’ menu of generous small and big plates will have you feeling like you’re eating in Shaun’s home. We wanted one of everything, but could only manage duck confit poutine and roasted cauliflower steak with smoked paprika and capers – with a veal meatball in San Marzano tomato sauce and Pecorino! There are renos coming too, extending the restaurant out to enjoy a patio gazebo. We’re so glad to see this spot hitting the right spot!
Waffling On Buttermilk has finally opened its doors on 17th Avenue, serving up piping hot sweet waffles from morning till late, and realizing Sam Friley’s dream of doing just one thing really well. The bright and airy room is minimalist, with waffle irons hanging from the ceiling and a hand-patterned wall, but you're coming to enjoy the light and fluffy waffles with seasonal syrups, sauces and toppings.
Escape to our patio.
Opens May 2015. For reservations call 403 268 8607 or visit heritagepark.ca
Ask Culinaire by TOM FIRTH
Is there a quick and easy way to chill wine at home?
Like you I’m sure, sometimes I forget to put whites or sparkling wine in the fridge in anticipation of guests or whatever wine the meal calls for. I also have a wife who finds it frustrating if I have a case of white wine shoehorned into the fridge for an article, so I try to chill only what I need. Hands down, the best way to chill a bottle of wine is in an ice bucket (a large bowl or pail about 10-12” high will do). Put the bottle in the bucket, fill it about 1/3 to ½ full of ice and add enough cold water to float the ice (you can add a pinch of salt too, but I’m still not convinced you’ll notice a difference). A couple of quick things to note: a bucket of ice has a lot of empty air space and air is a poor thermal conductor, so without the water it takes
a really long time. The other thing, chances are if you forgot to chill wine beforehand, you probably don’t have full ice-trays. So just in case, here are a few other options.
freezer for about 10 minutes can also do wonders. Most of the gadgets out there for chilling wine are pieces of junk and I can attest that I’ve tried quite a few of them, tested them, and been disappointed with the results or the value they represent. Save your money.
Hands down, the best way to chill a bottle of wine is in an ice bucket
In a pinch - and this may seem odd - the water tank of your toilet can be a great place to chill a few bottles. It’s full of clean, chilly water - it’s not underfoot if you are busy in the kitchen, and it doesn’t cost you a cent.
The best “just in case” gadget I use at home is a sleeve-type bottle chiller. I just keep it in the freezer and if I need to chill wine, I put the wine in the sleeve and put it right in the fridge. Otherwise, wrapping the bottle in a wet paper towel and putting that in the
Tom Firth is the contributing drinks editor for Culinaire Magazine and the competition director for the Alberta Beverage Awards, follow him on twitter @cowtownwine.
Tel: 403.275.3300 www.italianstore.ca
5140 Skyline Way NE
Calgary, AB T2E 6V1
Itâ€™s Last Call! Be in it to win it! Registration deadline is June 19th. Visit culinairemagazine.ca/aba to enter your wines, beers and spirits for the 2015 Alberta Beverage Awards.
Book Reviews by KAREN MILLER
The Waste Not, Want Not Cookbook: Save Food, Save Money, And Save The Planet By Cinda Chavich Touchwood Editions 2015 $29.95
Waste not, want not something we should all be more concerned about when it comes to the food we buy. We have gone through many stages of a culinary evolution and are now more educated on the value of eating locally, but this book goes further in our education. Chavich wants us to acquire better habits and teaches us how to make the most of the food we purchase. This is not a glossy coffee table cookbook, but more a reference tool we all can use more often in the kitchen. Cinda Chavich is a well-respected food writer in Canada with lots of information to share, and she gives us the facts on food waste in this country, and deals with our concerns for food safety as well. The book is set out alphabetically with each ingredient given a one-page summary of guidelines for buying, storing and serving, as well as numerous quick fixes for using up. A few recipes with the featured ingredient follow. Chavich talks about general strategies to live by to achieve the goals of better food use habits. She gives us the “White Box Challenge” a reference to when chefs are given a black box of ingredients (either on reality cooking shows or as a professional test) and have to come up with a meal. The “white box” being, of course, your refrigerator. So open your refrigerator, grab five ingredients and devise a meal plan. After reading this book, you may feel more confident doing so. Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls.
Growing support. Raising awareness. You make a statement when you put locally sourced food on the table: you’re proclaiming your desire for the freshest meat, dairy and produce. Your support for the local farmer, rancher and producer. Your commitment to “walking the walk” by promoting a sustainable local diet. Learn about some amazing LOCAL initiatives taking place at your local Co-op. From Pop-Up Farmers Markets – to Meet the Grower Events – to the promise of the first pick of the season. Visit localyyc.com
One Loaf Of Bread At A Time: Sidewalk Citizen Bakery by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL
Calgary’s food scene is full of entrepreneurial success stories, but few of them are as inspiring as Sidewalk Citizen bakery. In the last five years, Sidewalk Citizen Bakery’s principle baker, Aviv Fried and his partner (in business and in life) Michal Lavi, have turned their bakery into one of Calgary’s most raved-about independent businesses, converting first-time customers into full-on fanatics one loaf of bread at a time. 12
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Five times Sidewalk Citizen’s backstory has become somewhat legendary in foodie circles and it really is a good one: Fried has a Master’s degree in biomedical engineering and Lavi is educated as a geologist and also has an adjacent career as a filmmaker. After graduating, Fried was offered a lucrative finance job in Toronto, but when it came time to make a decision, Fried and Lavi reevaluated how they wanted to live their lives and decided that the corporate rat race wasn’t for them. Fried decided instead to focus on baking and set out to become the greatest bread baker he could be.
“What we want to create is joyful food”
“Aviv is very diligent about research, his background is in scientific research,” Lavi says. “His baking is self-taught, and then he apprenticed in Paris and several other cities. In the beginning it was trial and error, but then he went back and studied and kept apprenticing.” Sidewalk Citizen began with Fried baking a few loaves of bread and selling it to friends in order to raise money to help build a library in Malawi. Before long he was taking more and more orders, baking well into the night and
then packing the loaves into a child bike trailer and delivering them to his customers. As the business continued to grow, Sidewalk Citizen moved into a commercial kitchen in the SW near Chinook Centre, selling the bread (as well as scones and other pastries) directly from the bakery. News of the bakery’s delicious artisanal bread spread and Sidewalk Citizen’s reputation continued to grow. C
Part of what makes the story of Fried turning down the finance job to bake bread so compelling is that it’s representative of the philosophy that he and Lavi use to guide their business decisions. The bakery’s name is a reference to Jane Jacobs’ book The Death and Life of Great American Cities and the idea that walkable cities make for healthier community engagement. With this philosophy in mind, Lavi and Fried set out to find a second location to sell out of and joined forces with the Sunnyside Market. The Market expanded its space to make room for a Sidewalk Citizen Bakery and Deli in 2013. The Sunnyside location sells bread and pastries as well as outstandingly creative sandwiches, pizza, salads, and other lunch-worthy bites. CY
“What we want to create is joyful food,” Lavi says of the Sunnyside menu. “There’s a bit of a Mediterranean flavour, but the whole idea behind the deli is hospitality. If you can’t decide
between two salads you can try them. Every day there’s a new meat and a new vegetarian sandwich, and a meat and a vegetarian pizza. It’s very important for us to be equal opportunity to vegetarians. And make joyful bright energetic food.” This summer Sidewalk Citizen is taking their sense of community engagement even further. They’re shutting down their original bakery location and moving production to the Simmons building, where they will bake their bread and have a space alongside CharBar and Phil & Sebastian Coffee Roasters. They will sell food that patrons can either take home or eat on site. Lavi loves that not only will the three businesses share the
space (and serve each others’ wares) but that so much of the food will be made right in the Simmons location. “The whole idea of the Simmons Building is to have food and energy and action,” she says.
There’s also the thing where everything is being made in this building: coffee is being roasted, bread is being baked, meat is being cured, it’s all happening in one place and you can witness it, you can see it and you can smell it.”
Fried and Lavi reevaluated how they wanted to live their lives and decided that the corporate rat race wasn’t for them. “There’s synergy between the places. We’ll use some of the restaurant’s meat in our sandwiches, CharBar will use our bread, Phil and Sebastian will have some of our pastries. So there is a flow and an overlap between the businesses.
The Simmons Building location is a big deal for Sidewalk Citizen, but true to form it isn’t really going to change the way that Lavi and Fried do things. Fried continues to bake the bread himself (with the help of a couple of bakers) and has no plans to increase production, even as demand goes up. For Fried and Lavi, Sidewalk Citizen is not just a business. It’s a way of life and an expression of what they think is important. “There’s only so much we can make and still feel like we’re maintaining our quality,” Lavi says. “So we are turning down opportunities and offers to make it bigger because that’s not the direction we want to go in. We don’t want to compromise our quality.” Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, and co-founder/co-editor of RollingSpoon.com. She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs.
Find Your Best: Picnic
by DAN CLAPSON, MALLORY FRAYN, LAURA LUSHINGTON AND DIANA NG
Eating on a restaurant patio is one fun way to dine outdoors, but spending some time at home preparing a more portable meal - and perhaps packing a bottle of wine or two as well - to enjoy while stretched out on a blanket on bright green grass, amidst beautiful surroundings, should definitely be on the agenda this summer! Answer these questions below to find out which spot you should probably pick to ‘nic this summer. Or, maybe try them all, there are no real wrong answers here! 1. When somebody says picnic, I think… a) I’m calling in sick for the afternoon, let’s make this picnic more than a lunch. b) it’s a great idea for the family, let’s head somewhere close to home. c) I am A-OK with any excuse to enjoy some sunshine. 2. On a scale of 1-10 when it comes to picnic meal organization, I’m a… a) 8.5. I like to think things out to make sure I’ve got all my food bases covered. b) 5. Food is important for a picnic, but quality time with friends or family is my main priority. c) 1. No, 0. Organization? I’m picking up something delicious on the way and buying a blanket to lay on! 3. If we run out of food or drink, my first thought is… a) I plan accordingly, so no shortages here!
b) the youngest person present with a driver’s license is heading to a nearby store to grab us what we need. c) the picnic should wrap up so we can spend the rest of the day on a patio! 4. My least favourite location for an outdoor meal would be… a) a small, urban park. Too much foot traffic and interruptions. b) somewhere too far from my home, what if it rains? c) a spot that is close to all of the action of Calgary’s core, but can feel a million miles away at the same time. 5. Who do you picnic with? a) a girlfriend or boyfriend I’m trying to impress. b) my family on the weekend. c) a mix of friends. Pretty much any of my friends who happen to be free at the moment.
6. If I’m bringing libations with me, I am bringing… a) beer. I do love a good microbrewery! b) rosemary lemonade. Not boozy, but I can still be creative. c) sangria. Meals in public parks are made for sangria! 7. The distance I’m willing to travel for a picnic is… a) at least 50-100 kilometres. At least get me to the foothills! b) a short drive, no more than 30 minutes though. c) somewhere walkable, I’m right downtown. 8. The best part about a picnic is… a) escaping work and other responsibilities for a little while. b) appreciating the outdoors while still in the city limits. c) enjoying the noon hour outside in the best way possible.
about fresh, mountain air always increases hunger levels! Drive up the hill to the Nordic Centre to enjoy a hearty lunch after a morning spent mountain biking or hiking the trails. You could even stop at Quarry Lake for a cool-off as you drive back down Spray Lakes Road, especially on a hot summer day. There’s also an off-leash dog park near by for your furry friends!
Canmore (mostly As) When you’re staring up at the towering peaks of the Rockies, let’s face it, there’s not really a bad spot to throw down a blanket and have a picnic. Canmore has no lack of amazing scenery so why not eat outside, weather permitting? Maybe it’s just me, but something
Fish Creek (mostly Bs) Those living in the south-east quarter of Calgary may know Fish Creek very well, but if you live in other parts of the
If you want to stay closer to Main Street and relax by the Mighty Bow, Riverside Park is your best bet. With plenty of picnic tables to choose from and open green space for kids (or the kid in you) to run around, it’s the perfect way to spend a day in Calgary’s backyard. there’s not really a bad spot to throw down a blanket and have a picnic
city, you might have not yet discovered all that this park can offer. A large, beautiful park with plenty of walking and cycling trails that has a more wildernesstype feel to it than most other green areas in the city. With a lot of trees as well, many areas of the park make for interesting bird watching, so bring a pair of binoculars to look through in between bites of foods. Finding a spot on the sands of Sikome, the man-made lake within the park, can provide young kids with lots to do, like building sandcastles or splashing in the water while you get the food ready uninterrupted.
Fish Creek Park
Photograph Courtesy Tourism Calgary
No matter where you are hunkering down to picnic, when you’re all done eating and drinking, make sure to explore the Artisan Gardens boasting 175 original works of art by Canadian artists that pay homage to the First Nations people of the area.
Photograph Courtesy Kingdom Come Photography
Where to stock up on picnic supplies: Mountain Mercato (for drinks, charcuterie, and a great cheese selection) CommuniTea Café (for fresh salads, sandwiches and hearty bowls) Le Fournil Bakery (for homemade bread and pastries)
Where to stock up on picnic supplies: Annie’s Bakery and Cafe (tons of homemade food to choose from like sandwiches, pastries and soups) Calgary Co-op on Macleod Trail South (aside from being able to buy any ingredient imaginable here, the Fresh-To-Go counter has a fantastic mix of gourmet food you can take along with you)
Annie’s Bakery and Cafe
Prince’s Island Park (mostly Cs) It’s rare that parks found in the middle of major cities have the same sort of oasis-type feeling that Prince’s Island Park does. The tiny island may have been ravaged by the flooding of two years ago, but it’s since regrown its grasses and is once again chock full of great, grassy spots just begging to be picnic-ed on. The magic of Prince’s Island Park lies in its diversity. You’ll find people from all walks of life spending time here. Families, couples on romantic dates, friends enjoying each other’s company, buskers taking a break from playing their tunes in Eau Claire Village...If you time your picnic right, you can also enjoy a free (ok, it’s technically “pay what you feel like”, so donate some funds) Shakespeare performance by Shakespeare By The Bow put on by Theatre Calgary between June 23rd and August 16th.
Bragg Creek (mix of As, Bs and Cs) As nice as it would be to take off all the way to the mountains for a little out of
On weekends, there is always plenty of parking within a close proximity of all entrances to the park (a 5-10 minute walk from most parking locations) and once you’re in, you can pick your terrain - on a small hillside, in the shade of a big tree, near the Bow River - and enjoy yourself.
Sunterra Market on Macleod Trail and 11 Ave (a great selection of prepared meals and especially salads)
Where to stock up on picnic supplies: River Cafe (they’ll prepare the whole meal for you. Can’t beat that!)
River Cafe Picnic Basket
town relaxation, sometimes we have time constraints in our lives that don’t grant us that much travel time. Bragg Creek is a great option when you want to eat and relax beyond the city limits with a minimal drive. If you like the sounds of fresh water rushing past you, head to Elbow Falls where there is a nice little picnic area near to the waterfall complete with fire pits, which are especially great when you and some friends are craving a flamegrilled meal. The Bragg Creek area also offers a variety of hiking trail options, from easy (like the hike to Elbow Falls) to not for the faint of heart, in other words: difficult, so depending on how much walking you’re up for, you can find some true peace and quiet here. Minimal cell reception will also help you focus less on instagramming or tweeting your beautiful picnic spread and more on who you’re with and what surrounds you.
Where to stock up on picnic supplies: Bragg Creek Family Foods (the town’s local grocer with a lot of options) Creekers Bistro (who said some pizza wasn’t a welcome addition to an outdoor dining affair?) 17
Chefs' Tips Tricks! Lighter Side of Italian by MALLORY FRAYN photography by INGRID KUENZEL
In North America, Italian isn’t the first cuisine we typically associate with words like “light” and “fresh”, but it’s not all about hearty lasagnas and creamy pastas either. As summer approaches, don’t forget that local produce and fresh seafood are equally part of the Italian repertoire! Chef Joshua Stoddart Sugo “Italian cooking is all about simplicity,” says Chef Joshua Stoddart of Sugo. The goal is to show off meat and vegetables for what they are. Basic ingredients like good olive oil are all you need. Chef Stoddart prefers more bitter, astringent oils, that don’t taste amazing on their own but pair wonderfully with simple salads. Salt is also very important to counteract that bitterness.
The warmer months are also especially well suited to firing up your BBQ. “You can cook entire meals on the grill,” Chef Stoddart says. He likes to cook salmon directly on the grill and serve it with grilled fennel, complete with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. To ensure your fish doesn’t stick, don’t turn it too soon! Wait until it’s almost cooked through on one side and then finish it briefly on the other. If it doesn’t release from the grill willingly, it’s not ready to flip yet.
Grilled Spring Salmon with Garden Vegetables and Marinated Cucumber
cook it properly. Canaroli or Arborio rice used in risotto are naturally high in starch, so simply stirring throughout the process allows a creamy consistency to develop without any added fat.
Makes 4 portions
4 - 150g portions of Spring Salmon fillet 1 bulb of fennel 12 green onions 2 red peppers 12 button mushrooms 1 medium zucchini 1 cucumber mint leaves lemon olive oil salt pepper
1. Season the salmon with olive oil, salt, and pepper then set aside to come to room temperature.
Chef Pat Gallo Prego Cucina Italiana If there’s one basic mantra in Italian cooking, it’s an emphasis on minimalism. “5 to 6 simple ingredients are all you need to make a great dish,” says Chef Pat Gallo of Prego Cucina Italiana. Risotto is a classic example of a dish that is stereotypically rich and heavy, but doesn’t have to be. Adding cream to risotto is completely unnecessary if you
5 to 6 simple ingredients are all you need
Chef Gallo also advocates using plenty of herbs for added flavour and freshness. Parsley is often a thoughtless garnish but has unlimited potential. Not only can you use it to flavour oils, it makes a great salad green in itself. Or try making a gremolata with chopped parsley and lemon, the perfect summer condiment atop just about anything!
Risotto Primavera the fennel into 4 pieces, leaving the root (Spring Risotto) 2. Preheat a grill to medium-high. Cut
on to keep the bulb together. Remove the seeds and cut the peppers into large pieces. Cut the zucchini into 4 large pieces. Toss all the veggies into a large mixing bowl and season with olive oil, salt and pepper.
3. Cut the cucumber into small cubes and season with mint, salt, pepper, and olive oil. Set aside.
4. To grill: Start with the fennel, place it on a cooler area of the grill and allow it to slowly cook. After 7 or 8 minutes, once the fennel has good colour on all sides and is beginning to soften, place the remaining veggies on the grill.
5. Place the salmon, skin side down on
the hottest part of the grill. Allow the salmon to cook ¾ of the way through on the skin side without touching it about 7 minutes. Carefully flip onto the flesh side and cook for another 2 minutes.
6. Serve immediately with the
marinated cucumber and fresh lemon to accompany the salmon.
Olive oil ¾ cup diced onion 1 cup Canaroli rice ½ tsp salt ½ cup (120 mL) Italian white wine 3-4 cups (720 mL – 1 L) chicken or vegetable broth 1 cup blanched fresh, shelled peas 1 cup blanched asparagus, cut into ½ inch lengths 1-2 Tbs of butter 1 cup grated Parmigiano cheese
1. Heat enough olive oil to coat the
bottom of a heavy bottomed pot. Add the onion. Keep the heat on medium to medium low, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft. Do not let the onions brown; we want to keep the finished dish white.
2. Add the rice and stir for a minute
to ensure it is well coated. Turn the heat to medium.
3. Add the wine. Let the wine simmer
for a few minutes until almost evaporated and the rice has absorbed the fragrance.
4. Begin to add the chicken broth ½
cup at a time, adding the next amount only after the rice has absorbed the previous.
5. After cooking and stirring for 20
minutes or so, sample a spoonful. If the rice grains have softened but there still remains a bit of a bite (al dente), it is ready for the vegetables. If not, continue to stir adding more broth as necessary.
6. Add the blanched vegetables,
cheese, and butter. Stir for a minute or so till everything is amalgamated. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more butter or cheese (or both) if desired. The risotto should be creamy. Serve and enjoy. Mallory is a food writer living and learning in Calgary, and Culinaire’s Digital Media Editor. Check out her blog becauseilikechocolate.com and follow her on Twitter @cuzilikechoclat 19
Pina Colada Semifreddo
A Summer Of Semifreddo by NATALIE FINDLAY
Is it a half-baked idea to want homemade ice cream, but you don’t have an ice cream maker? Don’t fret, try the delicious, half-frozen, just like ice cream but better, semifreddo. Semifreddo is ice cream’s simple cousin. You get the same creamy, frozen deliciousness but without the expensive machine, and it is much quicker to make. The texture is similar to frozen mousse, and it literally melts in your mouth. You will be delighted with how easy it is and how refreshing it is on a hot summer’s evening. This dessert is sure to be a crowd pleaser. Once you’ve tried out these recipes, have fun working with your own favourite flavours too. Semifreddo can be made in any shape pan and pre-frozen in single servings for that impromptu dinner party. Have fun!
Pina Colada Semifreddo Serves 4 - 6
¾ cup (375 mL) whipping cream ¾ cup (375 mL) coconut milk 300 mL condensed milk 100 mL fresh lime juice 40g toasted, shredded coconut ¼ fresh pineapple, cubed
3. In a medium saucepan, combine
coconut milk and condensed milk, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and cook at a rapid simmer, stirring frequently, until thickened, about 10 minutes.
4. Pour mixture into a stainless bowl over an ice bath and stir until cooled.
1. Line a 9x5x3” loaf pan with plastic
5. Gently fold whipped cream into
2. Using electric mixer, beat whipping
6. Invert semiffreddo onto a serving
wrap, leaving a generous overhang. Add the toasted coconut on top of the plastic wrap. cream and icing sugar in large bowl until soft peaks form. Refrigerate.
coconut milk mixture and pour into the loaf pan. Freeze until firm, 4 hours or overnight. platter and remove plastic wrap. Dip a large knife into hot water; cut semifreddo into thick slices. Transfer to plates and spoon pineapple alongside.
Light Lemon Semifreddo with Summer Berries
Light Lemon Semifreddo with Summer Berries
Serves 4 - 6
1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream 4 large egg yolks 150g sugar ½ cup (125 mL) fresh lemon juice 1½ lemons, zested 500g mixed berries, blueberries, raspberries and strawberries 1/3 cup (65 mL) fresh lemon juice 15g icing sugar
1. Line 9x5x3” loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving a generous overhang.
2. Using electric mixer, beat whipping
cream and icing sugar in large bowl until soft peaks form. Refrigerate.
3. Whisk egg yolks, sugar and lemon
juice in a medium metal bowl. Set bowl over a pot of simmering water and whisk (with a wire balloon whisk or a hand mixer) constantly until yolk mixture is thick and fluffy and an instant-read
thermometer inserted into mixture registers 170° F, about 4 minutes.
4. Remove bowl from pot of simmering
water. Using wire whisk or electric mixer, beat mixture until cool, thick, and doubled in volume, about 6 minutes. Fold in chilled whipped cream. Pour mixture into prepared loaf pan and smooth top.
1. Line a 9x5x3” loaf pan with plastic
6. Fold the whipped cream into the
to remove air pockets, then fold plastic wrap overhang over top to cover. Freeze semifreddo until firm, at least 4 hours or overnight.
cream and icing sugar in large bowl until soft peaks form. Refrigerate.
3. Whisk egg, yolks, honey and lime
Serves 4 - 6
300 mL whipping cream 50g icing sugar 2 avocados 1 lime, juiced 1 large egg 3 large egg yolks 150 mL honey 100 mL fresh lime juice 1 lime, zested 1 large, ripe mango, cubed
7. Unfold plastic wrap from semifreddo
5. Tap loaf pan lightly on work surface
2. Using electric mixer, beat whipping
Avocado and Lime Semifreddo with Mango
add berries to a medium bowl (slice strawberries as desired) and add icing sugar and 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice. Let sit until ready to serve, stirring occasionally.
and invert onto dessert platter. Remove remaining plastic wrap. Dip a large knife into hot water; cut semifreddo crosswise into thick slices. Transfer to plates and spoon berries alongside.
wrap, leaving a generous overhang.
Avocado and Lime Semifreddo with Mango
6. Two or three hours prior to serving,
juice in medium metal bowl to blend. Set bowl over medium pot of simmering water and whisk (with a wire balloon whisk or a hand mixer) constantly until yolk mixture is thick and fluffy and an instantread thermometer inserted into mixture registers 170° F, about 4 minutes.
4. Remove bowl from pot of simmering
water. Using wire whisk or electric mixer, beat mixture until cool, thick, and doubled in volume, about 6 minutes.
avocado mixture. Fold the cream/ avocado mixture into the egg and honey mixture.
7. Pour mixture into prepared loaf pan and smooth top. Fold plastic wrap over top to cover. Freeze semifreddo until firm, 4 hours or overnight.
8. Unfold plastic wrap from top of
semifreddo and invert onto dessert platter; remove plastic wrap. Dip a large knife into hot water; cut semifreddo crosswise into thick slices. Transfer to plates and spoon cubed mango alongside.
Note: semifreddo can be stored in the freezer for up to 2 months.
5. Remove skin and seed from the
2 avocados and place them in a small bowl along with the juice of 1 lime. Whip until smooth.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes. 21
Soup Kitchen by DAN CLAPSON
The sun is staying out longer, the ground has softened, and spring ingredients are already ripe for the picking. You’ll be able to find fresh asparagus now (perfect in this creamy soup below) at the farmers’ market, a time of year I always look forward to. The second soup, a spin on tabbouleh salad, is as bright and fresh as the weather outside. So, enjoy! Cream of Roasted Asparagus and Kaffir Lime Soup Serves 4 Total cook time 1 hour
3. Place in oven and cook until the
asparagus starts to brown slightly, about 16-18 minutes. Remove from oven and keep warm until ready to serve.
2 cups fresh asparagus, roughly chopped 1 Tbs (15 mL) canola oil 2 Tbs (30 mL) good quality maple syrup To taste salt and pepper
in a medium pot on medium-high heat. Once the cream mixture is quite hot, but not boiling, reduce to low heat, cover and let sit for 45 minutes.
Soup: 3 cups (720 mL) half and half 3 Kaffir lime leaves 1 cinnamon stick 1 5 cm piece lemongrass 3 garlic cloves 1 yellow onion, quartered 1 sprig fresh thyme 2 cups (480 mL) chicken stock 1 cup (240 mL) water 1½ Tbs cornstarch 1½ Tbs (22 mL) water To taste salt and pepper
1. Preheat oven to 425º F. 2. Place asparagus in a medium baking dish, pour maple syrup and oil over top and toss to combine. 22
5. Discard aromatics from cream, add
in stock and water, return to mediumhigh heat and bring to a gentle simmer.
6. Stir together water and cornstarch 4. Combine the first 7 soup ingredients in a small bowl and add to soup. Once
thickened, season to taste with salt and pepper and stir in ¾ of the roasted asparagus. Cook for another 5 minutes. Ladle out into bowls and top each soup with remaining asparagus.
UNIQUE WINE & SPIRITS BOUTIQUE RIGHT IN THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN CALGARY
Tabbouleh Soup Serves 4 Total cook time 35 minutes 5 cups (1¼ L) vegetable broth 2 cups (480 mL) water 2 cups uncooked bulgur wheat 2 Tbs finely chopped fresh mint 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil 1 Tbs (15 mL) honey 1 lemon, zest and juice 1 yellow onion, finely diced 1 Tbs (15 mL) tomato paste 1 Tbs (15 mL) red wine vinegar 1 cup finely diced cucumber ¼ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped 8 cherry tomatoes, thinly sliced To taste salt and pepper
1. Bring broth and water to a boil in a
medium pot. Add bulgur wheat and cook until tender, about 10 minutes.
2. Strain bulgur from the pot reserving the liquid, transfer to a medium bowl, and return liquid to pot.
3. Place the mint, olive oil and honey
into the bowl of bulgur, season generously with salt and pepper and stir to combine. Set aside for now.
4. Add the next 4 ingredients to
pot, bring to a simmer, reduce to medium heat and let cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes.
5. When ready to assemble, evenly This soup is as bright and fresh as the weather outside
distribute parsley, tomato slices and diced cucumber into the base of 4 bowls. Top with a generous scoop of the bulgur mixture. Finish by ladling hot soup around the bulgur.
Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary. When he’s not writing about Canada’s amazing culinary scene, he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands. Follow him on twitter @dansgoodside
228 Riverfront Ave SW Calgary, AB
www.riverfrontwines.com TEL: 403.475 7455
FatWashed Spirits by REBECCA DAVIS
When the weather is nice (or even not-so-nice), Calgarians love to camp. This year, forego the bottles of beer and bring the essence of camping straight into your glass. With cool summer nights by the fire, this Old Fashioned is sure to keep you warm in your woolies. Anytime you fat-wash a spirit, remember that safety is always first. It is extremely important to let the fat cool before adding it to your spirit as alcohol raises the temperature and if you’re not careful, a painful grease burn may be in Maple Bacon Old Fashioned your future. The fat should be cooled but not solidified. 2oz bacon washed bourbon You’ll need: ½ cup (120 mL) fat (bacon or duck), cooled 1 bottle of bourbon, brandy, or any spirit you choose 1 large re-sealable mason-type jar Fine strainer or cheesecloth
½ oz maple syrup 5 heavy dashes Angostura bitters orange zest cinnamon stick
This Old Fashioned is sure to keep you warm in your woolies
1. Fill a mason jar three quarters of the way with spirit.
Build directly into glass: first add the maple syrup and bitters. Stir well. Add 2. Add cooled fat to the jar and seal. bourbon and stir well before you add 3. Shake vigorously, and let sit overnight. ice. Slowly add ice and stir until desired dilution. Just when you think you have stirred enough, stir some more. Finish 4. Strain the fat from the spirit with a twist of orange and stir with a cinnamon stick. 5. Mix & enjoy! 24
Farmers Medicine 1½ oz bacon washed brandy ¾ oz Thym liqueur ¼ oz Drambuie Juice of half a grapefruit Juice of half a lime Dash of simple syrup 3 dashes Angostura bitters
Shake all ingredients in a Boston shaker with lots of ice. Strain into a rocks glass with fresh ice. Garnish with a cinnamon stick.
A born and raised Calgarian, Rebecca’s passion for wine and spirits started early. Originally a sommelier, she instinctively progressed into cocktails. On her days off Rebecca enjoys a classic Old Fashioned.
The only way to get it fresher is to be there when theyâ€™re pressing it.
PREMIUM EXTRA VIRGIN & NATURALLY FLAVOURED OLIVE OILS + VINEGARS Visit us in Canyon Meadows or The Calgary Famers Market
In future, a portion of all keg and case sales will go to WildSmart in aid of programs that contribute towards sustainable populations of bears and other wildlife.
SAVE THE BEAR THE GRIZZLY PAW
BREWING COMPANY  678-2487
What’s On Your Charcuterie Platter? by DAN CLAPSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
Although charcuterie boards will vary from restaurant to restaurant, there are a lot of usual suspects that you’ll see in front of you. If ever there is a time of year for entertaining, it’s summer, so use this little diagram as inspiration when you’re constructing your next board at home, or just copy it to a “T”. After all, imitation is the highest form of flattery!
Elk salami - It’s always good to have
a few more uncommon items on a charcuterie board, so here’s an interesting game meat that you don’t find very often in the city. Available at the Canadian Rocky Mountain Ranch shop, a short drive outside of Calgary. Trust us, it’s well worth the extra miles!
Crostini - A welcome,
crispy addition to any board. Obviously, meant to be a vessel for anything from a couple of slices of meat to mustard and pickles, these guys are amazingly easy to make yourself at home. Buy a white baguette, slice as thinly as possible, drizzle with oil and toast in the oven until crispy. Done and done!
Pickled beans - Although we’ve
pretty much covered our ‘pickled’ bases with the carrots and cauliflower top right, pickled beans are worthy of their own mention. Don’t bother with a home quick pickle with these guys, instead we recommend heading to the Innisfail Growers booth at The Calgary Farmers’ Market for their delicious pickled beans.
Grainy Dijon mustard - Since Alberta is the second largest
producer of mustard seeds in Canada, processed mustards like this one are easily attainable at any grocery store in town or stay local with a jar of Brassica mustard; this is one component that we think should always (always!) grace a charcuterie board. You’ll be hard pressed to find something savoury that grainy mustard doesn’t complement. 26
Genoa salami - Salami are basically sausages
(typically pork) that are fermented and then dried. Unlike the smooth taste of the air-dried bison or prosciutto, genoa typically has a prominent garlic flavour with subtle hints of fennel.
Parma Prosciutto - This particular type of prosciutto comes exclusively from the Italian city of Parma. The difference in flavour compared to regular prosciutto comes from the diet the pigs are raised on before they’re, um, transformed, into melt-in-your-mouth charcuterie.
Pickled vegetables - The acidity of pickled
vegetables help cut the richness of different meats that you’ll find on a board. An easy quick pickle is to bring equal parts water and vinegar to the boil with a bit of salt and sugar and pour it over the sliced vegetables of your choosing. Cover and let cool before serving.
Capicola ham - You could almost
consider this a ‘cousin’ of prosciutto. While prosciutto is usually just cured with salt and then hung to age, capicola can be rubbed with a variety of spices, wine and even smoked to finish. Try The Italian Store for some great capicola.
Olives - In a similar vein to the pickled vegetables,
olives are intense, briny and salty, making you crave them even more. Often, almond or garlic-stuffed green olives will do the trick with charcuterie, but try buying some more uncommon types like cerignola olives, which are smooth and buttery. Bet you can’t eat just one.
Fig jam - Fresh figs are a rarity in
Calgary. Luckily, finding this thick, sweet jam is not. Head to places like Sunterra Market or Bite in Inglewood to grab a jar of this stuff. Try it with an array of soft cheeses too, like Brie or Camembert.
Air-dried bison - Much more of a specialty item than the others on
this board. Look to quality shops like Second To None Meats or one of our fantastic local farmers’ markets for a product like this.
Orange marmalade - What’s the difference between marmalade and jam, you
ask? Quite a lot, actually! Marmalade is always citrus-centric, typically made with orange, and with a similar consistency to jam but without using pectin. It’s sweet, and the perfect complement to its other salty or smoky boardmates.
A country road, with the glistening Okanagan Lake reflecting on adjacent vineyards and orchards, beckons you to tour British Columbia’s Naramata Bench. One of Canada’s premiere wine regions, and a top destination for wine enthusiasts, it’s less than an hour’s flight or scenic day’s drive from Calgary. Naramata Bench is a world away where you can truly experience wine country hospitality and exceptional wines and events. The favourable climatic and geological conditions that are good for the grapes here are also good for the people and serve to create an idyllic location to vacation or live. You’ll find spectacular scenery, along with wonderful wine, as you tour this stunning setting. Think of patios poised along rolling hillsides-nestled within verdant vineyards, with the shimmering lake and mountain views.
A Story in Every Bottle The agricultural history unfolded in 1907 with the Bench being compared to Italy and recommended as an ideal location for fruit farming. Local lore suggests a mystical origin of Naramata’s name based on a séance where founder John Robinson channelled Sioux Chief Big Moose, whose spirit reminisced about his wife Nar-ra-mat-tah as the “smile of Manitou”. Such is the magic of the region and the dynamic members of the Naramata Bench Wineries Association (NBWA) that serve as catalyst for their motto of “A Story in Every Bottle”. The real magic comes from the people and their willingness to share their stories, expertise, and sense of the place with visitors. Starting in 2004 a few wineries banded together to create a brand for their area. Now the NBWA comprises 24 distinct and distinguished wineries collaborating effectively to shine light on the region.
When visiting, track your touring with the NBWA passport map available at member wineries. Once you’ve collected your stamps, you can enter to win tickets to NBWA signature events. Relive your visit with every sip of wine you take home. At Poplar Grove Winery, it is truly about the winery experience. Witness for yourself what so many are raving about on social media. From the moment you drive through the attractive gates at its picturesque perch, you’ll be captivated by its stunning architecture and panorama overlooking Penticton and Okanagan Lake. Step up to the sculptured counter where an experienced associate guides you through a delicious tasting. The tasting room offers extended hours to 9pm in July and August. Linger on the patio, savouring the wine and the contemporary cuisine of Chef Bruno Terroso at the Vanilla Pod Restaurant. It, too, is open daily through the summer for lunch and dinner, and on Saturdays and Sundays for brunch from 10:30am. Consider Poplar Grove’s Barrel Hall, which is ideal for groups of about 20 for private functions such as small weddings, rehearsal dinners, birthdays, company meetings and teambuilding sessions. Through Poplar Grove’s Wine Club, in addition to discounts on wine purchases, you get advance notice on exclusive, library and new release wines, suggested wine-pairing recipes created by BC’s finest chefs, invitations to events including its famous annual Wine Club BBQ, seasonal promotions at The Vanilla Pod restaurant at Poplar Grove, privileged access with advance reservations to the private tasting room, loyalty rewards, and referral benefits.
Hillside Winery & Bistro
Hillside Winery & Bistro, with its 72-foot tower, portrays a powerful presence in terms of its history, striking facility, and renown for the vast variety of grapes grown to perfection and transformed under Winemaker Kathy Malone’s direction to exemplary wines. Hillside dates to 1984 when grapevines replaced apricots; it is the original BC winery to produce Muscat Ottonel, a unique aromatic white wine with a devoted following almost as huge as its flavour. Its Wine Club offers the best way to experience unique and limited quantity selections and benefits like priority seating on its patio, invitations to special events and
discounted merchandise in the Wine Shop – open daily through the summer to 7 pm. You’ll want to pair that esteemed portfolio of wines with lunch or dinner in Hillside’s award-winning Bistro helmed by Chef Robert Cordonier. Savour exceptional wine-country cuisine in the attractive dining room, or on one of two patios that feature breathtaking views of its gardens, vineyards, orchards and the lake. Scale the stairs of the tower to accentuate your vantage point and capture a photographic memento. Open daily for lunch and dinner, you’ll want to check out the events page for special functions such as its Father’s Day Dinner. At Upper Bench Winery & Creamery, opt into Canada’s first Curds & Corks Club. Situated at the gateway to the Naramata Bench, Upper Bench is the first winery you encounter as you travel from Penticton. Reap the benefits of two passions in Winemaker Gavin Miller’s artisan wines, and Cheesemaker Shana Miller’s handcrafted cheeses. Settle into the covered patio to nibble on cheese plates and sip luscious wine. Through the Curds & Corks Club, you’ll discover perfectly-matched cheese and
Win A Weekend On The Naramata Bench For Two! 2 NIGHTS ACCOMMODATION IN OUR CABIN & 2 TICKETS TO NARAMATA BENCH TAILGATE PARTY & 4 BOTTLES OF BENCH 1775 WINES Take part in our social media contest to win a weekend at our winery located on beautiful Okanagan Lake! Post your FUNNIEST CAMPING STORY by AUGUST 21 to Twitter, Facebook or Instagram using
www.bench1775.com 1775 Naramata Rd, Penticton, B.C. V2A 8T8 | (250)490-4965 | email@example.com @bench1775 bench1775 bench1775
The patio at Elephant Island Orchard Wines
wine pairings, discounts on additional wine purchases, complimentary wine & cheese tasting for you and three friends at the winery, and exclusive offers to pre-released wines, past vintages and members-only artisan cheeses.
ULTIMATE WINE & CHEESE CLUB RECIPE Ingredients: • 3 parts award winning Upper Bench wine • 3 parts hand-crafted Upper Bench cheese • Add your favourite baguette or crackers • Add great friends (or keep it for yourself) Serve 4 times per year More info at upperbench.ca/curds-and-corks-clubs For free shipping on your first Curds & Corks Club shipment, mention: Culinaire2015
170 UPPER BENCH ROAD SOUTH, PENTICTON, BC V2A 8T1 250.770.1733 WWW.UPPERBENCH.CA /UPPERBENCH @UPPERBENCH
An unprecedented two-in-a-row recipient of the Riverside International Wine competition’s Small Winery of the Year for 2013 and 2014, La Frenz Winery is testament to the belief that “quality in the bottle begins in the vineyard”. It’s proof, too, that Naramata Bench’s allure casts a wide net, given owners Niva and Jeff Martin brought their vast wine industry background from Australia. Jeff emphasizes a sustainable farming approach. “Starting from the ground up, we strategically select our vineyards, plant only varieties and clones suited to the terroir, and use biodynamic and organic techniques, promoting biodiversity for healthy and consistent quality.” Visit the wine shop, open daily from 10 am to 5 pm, to taste and learn about these fine wines, and view firsthand the spectacular vista that was featured on the $100 Canadian banknote from 1954 to 1975. Farther along the Naramata Bench, you’ll find Bench 1775 Winery where General Manager and Winemaker Val Tait, with her wealth of knowledge in viticulture and winery experience, stresses that great wines are made in the vineyard. In her second vintage at Bench 1775, Val has expanded and invigorated the viticulture program. “I was struck by this mind-blowing property with its spectacular deck and fantastic beach. Along with offering affordable, high quality wines, I want to
create a welcoming, casual chill for guests when they come to this vacation paradise, a quintessential place for people to enjoy great wine, food, music, and the spectacular view.” Bench 1775 offers a large portfolio of white, red, rosé, ice wine, and late harvest selections. Lake Breeze Vineyards describes itself as a Naramata Bench Wine Farm and welcomes guests to The Tasting Room, 11am to 5:30pm, to access its full range of wines in its stunning setting. President and Winemaker Garron Elmes encourages you to experience the harmony created when the wines are paired perfectly with the cuisine of Chef Mark Ashton in the Patio at Lake Breeze, open daily 11:30am to 3:30pm. Reserve ahead, because the path to make a personal connection with these wines and great staff is well-trod. Lake Breeze is celebrating its 20th anniversary, which will be marked by a June release of three wines including Tempest, Pinotage and single vineyard Pinot Noir. Visit the website to learn about events and The Tempest Club.
Lake Breeze Tasting Room
Down the road, Elephant Island Orchard Wines, began as a family haven for magical holidays, summer picnics, and orchard adventures, and grew into a winery specializing in wines made from fruits other than grapes in traditional winemaking practices. It is still a magical place “to be amused and amazed by wines that seek to capture the spirit and essence of fun and whimsy.” New to its portfolio are small lot wines, the result of the “Sideshow
Vineyard” that the owners bought in 2009 to produce vinifera grapes. With fun names including “I Told You So” 2013 Chardonnay, “Naysayer” 2012 Cabernet Franc/Merlot, and “The Other Way” 2013 Viognier, these are featured in a separate small tasting room called the “Sideshow at Elephant Island”. For a truly therapeutic Okanagan experience, check into Therapy Vineyards, where it’s always fun to relish tasty wine with playful names like Freudian Sip. Make your vacation home onsite at its eight-room Guesthouse, which sleeps one to 22 guests. Marking its 10th, the “year of Therapy” offers a bigger parking lot to make visiting easier and a patio restaurant, Lil’s Kitchen, making lingering delicious with wood-fired pizza, home-baked bread and mouth-watering selections to pair with the wine. New, each Saturday throughout the summer from 1 to 4 pm, live music is featured on the patio starting June 27 with the band “El Jari” from Cabo Mexico. The website also got a birthday treatment, so be sure to surf it for updates and more about Therapy’s Anniversary event, “Christmas in July” on July 25.. Last stop today is Kettle Valley Winery, which is the oldest original-owners winery on Naramata Bench and marking its 24th vintage. What started as two buddies making hobby wine in an apartment, became a winery for the brothers-in-law when they obtained the third winery licence granted on the Bench. While Kettle Valley wines have gained a cult-status
Kettle Valley Vineyard
following, the families remain down-to-earth and committed “to farming full flavoured grapes”. You’ll also find a new portfolio of wines from their wives’ Great Northern Vineyard. Visit the home-based tasting room in person or visit kettlevalleywinery.com and register for the Photography Workshop with Calgary photographer Scott Forsyth at the winery on October 17. Visit naramatabench.com to link to all member wineries and for event updates. Be sure to grab tickets soon for the perennially sold-out Naramata Tailgate Party to be held September 12 at Red Rooster Winery, another spectacularly located Association member. Naramata Bench Wine Country is situated along a 15 km that starts in Penticton and travels along the east side of Okanagan Lake. WestJet offers daily direct flights from Calgary to Penticton. naramatabench.com/ FB naramatawines
BOLD AND COMPLEX WINES INSPIRED BY NATURE SMALL WINERY OF THE YEAR 2013 & 2014 RIVERSIDE INTERNATIONAL, CALIFORNIA
CedarCreek Estate Winery
Okanagan Eats: The Food of BC Wine Country by JEANNETTE MONTGOMERY
After a long Canadian winter, we perk up in anticipation of patio time and vibrant, seasonal foods. Okanagan chefs are eager to explore fresh tastes: wild asparagus in April, plump strawberries in June, heirloom tomatoes in July, and cantaloupes that quite literally roll off the vine by August. With farmers often a few minutes away, the region is a chef’s paradise.
Over the last five years, the quality and diversity of cuisine in British Columbia’s largest wine region has been on an upward trajectory. More wineries have restaurants, and hip dining spots (à la Vancouver or Toronto) are opening in the valley. Now, charcuterie and confit are spoken regularly and house cured/ smoked/pickled is a new standard. Whether you indulge in a vineyard vista or sidle up to the bar at a downtown eatery, a culinary treat awaits.
Vineyard Terrace Restaurant at CedarCreek Estate Winery
Summerhill Pyramid Winery
5445 Lakeshore Road, Kelowna
Known for internationally acclaimed pinot noir, CedarCreek’s Vineyard Terrace Restaurant is equally impressive. For 2015, well-travelled Executive Chef Jeremy Tucker returns to lead a team in delivering fresh, local ingredients to hungry visitors. Each menu item, from appetizer to dessert, has a wine pairing chosen in partnership between the winery and restaurant.
Sunset Organic Bistro at Summerhill Pyramid Winery 4870 Chute Lake Road, Kelowna
With farmers often a few minutes away, the region is a chef’s paradise
This year, the Terrace is extending its service hours; what was a breathtaking locale for midday is now a brilliant lunch and dinner sunset-and-twinklingstars dining experience overlooking Okanagan Lake. A new roof and awnings help keep guests comfortable in the desert climate, and an updated menu has a variety of great eats - from roasted cauliflower soup and asparagus risotto, to lamb meatball crépinette. Bon appetit. Ideal setting: the corner table at dusk, a glass of pinot noir, and seared BC albacore tuna
A decade ago, Jonas Stadtländer was on tour with his organic champion chef father, Michael, when he first discovered Summerhill; his father was making a documentary and the two spent days in a red bus affectionately named “the liberator.” When opportunity arose to join the Sunset Organic Bistro as Executive Chef, Jonas knew it was the place for him to be. Having worked around the world, it’s fitting that chef Jonas’ menu hints at global cuisine. Flavours come home to the Okanagan through the use of local, seasonal ingredients. House kimchi appears on the wild moon pulled pork sandwich, while spaetzle goes Okanagan with mustard greens pesto and house cured bacon. The global village has never tasted so good. Ideal setting: the patio, Alsatian tart pizza, and a glass of Summerhill Vineyard Riesling
Summerhill Pyramid Winery
CedarCreek Estate Winery
Miradoro Restaurant at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 537 Tinhorn Creek Road, Oliver
After more than two decades in the industry, restaurateur Manuel Ferriera opened Miradoro in partnership with his longtime friends at Tinhorn Creek, and lured Vancouver culinary talent Jeff Van Geest to the team as Executive Chef. Manny is old-school hospitality: quietly knowledgeable and gracious, paying attention to subtle details. Chef Jeff is new classic kitchen: playfully creative and thoughtful, honouring history while pushing boundaries. Miradoro is both elegant and approachable; its winery connection means they host guests of intention and circumstance. Chef Jeff embraces this spectrum: aficionados can tuck into the buccatini suggo al’ amatriciana with raised pork jowl and cured egg yolk, and explorers can ease into a beet risotto with ricotta and blood orange. Discover a new favourite, or enjoy a different approach to a classic. Ideal setting: the patio, local Okanagan char, and a glass of Oldfield Series Rosé. Tinhorn Creek Vineyards
483 Main Street, downtown Penticton After years of working in the kitchens of others, it takes a healthy nerve and good planning for a chef to open a restaurant of his or her own. In the spring of 2013, chef Paul Cecconi and his wife Holly took a leap and opened Brodo Kitchen; despite the usual newowner-jitters, it wasn’t long before they needed more staff and had a full calendar of catering gigs.
Meaning “broth” in Italian, Brodo is a comfortable and casual dining joint that’s more than it appears. Local growers deliver weekly to the back door and there’s a rotating selection of regional sips by the bottle or glass. The menu hovers at four soups, four (or five) sandwiches, and a few salads as regular offerings, with a daily feature at lunch and set dinner special for evening eats. Can’t decide? Try a soup flight. Ideal setting: new friends at the communal table, a turkey leg sandwich, and a pint of cider.
Chef Chris Shaften is leading a self-appointed food revolution
KRAFTY kitchen + bar 281 Lawrence Avenue, downtown Kelowna
KRAFTY kitchen + bar opened late summer 2014 as the brave new dining world of chef Chris Shaften; he’s leading a self-appointed food revolution, converting unsuspecting guests one plate at a time. Warm wood surfaces, touches of dark iron, and a gleaming bar 38
KRAFTY kitchen + bar
KRAFTY kitchen + bar
to frame the open kitchen: the decor reflects the food vibe: comfortable, natural, camouflaged elegance. You might not see local or housemade on the menu, but it’s implied throughout. “Something pickled” appears as a side, and traditional culinary adjectives should be interpreted with a dash of sarcasm and no expectations. Fried ling cod rests on a Canadian seaweed salad. The 57C butcher steak is presented with a house-made “K1” sauce, a play on the traditional A1. Let the staff and chef guide you through a meal, and eat well.
T H E G O L D S TA N DA R D
Ideal setting: the bar, “Silver Dragon” elk carpaccio, and a Pimm’s Cup No.3.
O C TO B E R 2 01 4 - 2 0 1 0 V I N T A G E
Jeannette Montgomery lives in BC wine country, with access to plenty of research material - and a large cellar.
With the newly released 2010 vintage, Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro now bears the elite designation Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. Crafted 100% from our finest estate-grown fruit, this iconic wine continues to honour the same rich winemaking traditions and strict quality standards as our very first vintage in 1947. No wonder Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro remains the Gold Standard of Chianti Classico.
Please enjoy our wines responsibly. ©2015 Ruffino Import Company, Rutherford, CA.
Making The Case by TOM FIRTH
Chateau Bois de la Salle 2013 Julienas Beaujolais, France Wow, just wow, this is a great bottle of wine and at a heck of a price as well. Raspberry fruits with savoury, peppery spices and just a hint of earthiness and mineral. Tannins are expertly balanced against the fruits making this lighter red perfect for lighter summer fair. About $19 CSPC +766911
Casa Valduga 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Brazil A classic profile for cabernet with cherry and cassis, cedar, bell pepper, and a nice spiciness. Juicy red berry fruits are balanced by great acids, and overall the wine is still a bit tight. Drink now with big barbecue, or hang on to it for a year or two. $22 CSPC +752421
I love June in Calgary, the sun is shining, the city is green and vibrant, and it’s the time of year when every Calgarian seems to spend as much time outdoors as they can. It’s a great time of year to try something new, getting out there walking, biking, or hiking, checking out a new patio, or just even seeing the sights. Here for your enjoyment
are a few new wines from regions less well known, but not to fear, there are a couple here that are classics both in origin and well-known producers. Enjoy!
Norman Hardie 2011 Riesling, Ontario One of the best rieslings I’ve tasted in recent memory. Bright citrus fruits with loads of mineral tones and flintiness. So crisp and clean on the palate, it’s got a touch of sweetness but perfectly balanced. Serve chilled, and relax with this beauty. Usually around $34 CSPC +758469
Negru de Purcari 2010, Moldova Based mostly around cabernet sauvignon with 20 percent saperavi and 10 percent of rara neagra, a grape rarely seen outside Romania, Ukraine, and Moldova. This wine sees 3 years of oak and a further year of bottle aging before release, bringing a well-crafted wine full of black fruits, liquorice, and a long savoury finish. Well balanced for steaks or dishes with portabella mushrooms in abundance. Around $40 CSPC +742745
Negru de Purcari 2011 Merlot, Moldova A pleasant surprise here, big aromas of violets, chalk, cedar, plum, and white pepper with similar flavours and nicely structured tannins. A bit of chocolate and spice round it out, and this should be enjoyed between now and 2-5 more years. Meat would be the best pairing and hearty rubs or marinades even better. $30 CSPC +742743
Lidio Carraro 2012 “Faces” White, Brazil If you are going to try Brazilian wine for the first time, make it this summery treat. Lifted citrus, white blossom, apple, and Bartlett pear on the nose with a palate that is a little tart and crisp, with good fruit presence. Serve chilled with citrus-y salads or lighter seafood dishes. Around $20 CSPC +760257
Pizzato 2005 Alicante Bouschet Reserva, Brazil Alicante bouschet is an uncommon grape and highly unusual to find from Brazil. Deeply coloured with blueberry and cherry fruits-perhaps a bit of cherry pie filling with spice box and herb. Firm tannins set the stage for full bodied flavours and should call out for hard cheese, seared steaks, or grilled sausages. About $17 on shelves CSPC + 752335
Cakebread Cellars 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley, California Heck yes! A ripe and round bottle of sauvignon blanc with juicy melon and mineral notes on the nose. Plenty of creaminess to go with the lemon tart fruits and a long, lingering finish. Perhaps a sauvignon blanc for a “special occasion”, it should pair perfectly with white fish or grilled chicken. Around $46 CSPC +191429
Cakebread Cellars 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California Cakebread Cellars is well known for their cabernet and deservedly so. Look on the nose for cherry, menthol, tobacco, blackberries, cola, and so much more. To taste, wow, rich earthy notes with mocha, cassis, and a silky texture leading into a long finish. Drink or keep -neither will disappoint. $85 CSPC +191411
Norman Hardie 2011 Niagara Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario Just. Plain. Delicious. Raspberry jelly with mint and strawberries and a touch of fresh compost, herb, and minty chocolate on the nose. Lively - almost exuberant character in the mouth with excellent balance. Perfect for almost any dish. Around $38 CSPC +740111
Villa Wolf 2011 Riesling Mosel, Germany This bottle blew me away with the quality for the price. A lean, mineral-driven, nearly bone-dry riesling at a kick-ass price. Crushed apples, lime, slate, and some tight acids bringing a little tension in the wine. Delicious on its own, but like any great bottle, better with food. Around $16 +729787
Baillie-Grohman 2013 Pinot Gris British Columbia I’m always happy to crack open a bottle of this wine. It’s light, expressive, very easy to enjoy, and showcases this wonderful grape. Bright tropical fruits, a little zingy acidity on the finish and you have a bottle perfect for grilled poultry, white fish, or a little cheese plate. Oh, it’s also from Creston, BC - how crazy is that? $28 CSPC +741958 41
Hefe Hefe, Hooray For Wheat Beers! by DAVID NUTTALL
As patios fill up and days get longer and warmer, visions of summer beers begin to dance in oneâ€™s head. Among the many available beers for summertime quaffing, there is one style that becomes especially popular. We are talking about wheat ales, and they go by many names, Weizen, Weissbier, Witbier and more, depending on the beer style and its origin.
Wheat is the second most used grain in brewing (after barley), and is in more beers than you may think. Wheat has no outer husk and has unique proteins that form a great head on beer, which is why it composes between 1 and 5% of many beer recipes to aid in head retention and stability. It also is part of most Belgian beers, and is the base beer for countless fruit beers. However, let’s talk about just the true German-style wheat ales and their variants. Wheat ales in Germany (the weizens) must consist of at least 50% wheat, and some go as high as 100%. Many are served unfiltered and still contain the yeast in the bottle (hefeweizen). Because this gives the beer a cloudy appearance, they are sometimes called white beers (weissbier). If they are filtered and appear clear, then they are kristallweizens. Finally, when the malt is roasted to produce a darker beer, they are then called dunkelweizens. Other styles exist, but those are the most common. Make sense?
CAMPOFIORIN, THE ORIGINAL. Fifty years of history in every drop.
In 1964, the gentle hillsides of Verona saw the birth of Campofiorin, and with it a new category of Veneto wines made with grape-drying techniques inspired by the making of Amarone. Fifty years later, Masi’s rich, friendly and cosmopolitan “Supervenetian” has become a classic, one of the best-loved Italian wines in the world. Following so many years of widespread success, let’s raise a glass to the inimitable Campofiorin.
www.masi.it The Venetian art of winemaking A CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EC REGULATIONS N. 1308/13
While each style has their own distinct characteristics, they have several qualities in common. The most notable, obvious upon pouring, is the carbonation level of the beers. These beers create about three fingers of big, white, foamy head in the tallest, narrowest glass in beerdom. With no husk, wheat also has less tannins than barley, and in combination with the weizen yeast, produces a crisp, almost zesty beer, with the aromas of banana, clove, and yes, even bubblegum.
These beers create about three fingers of big, white, foamy head in the tallest, narrowest glass in beerdom
This extra protein also contributes to the haze apparent in all the unfiltered versions, so pour carefully, and rouse the yeast at the bottom after about ¾ of the beer is in the glass. What you will find is a thirst-quenching beer with a refreshing, somewhat citrusy flavour-perfectly suited for summer. The addition of lemon or orange garnishes on the side of the glass is overkill, and frowned upon in Europe. 44
These beers pair great with lighter fare, like soups and salads, vegetarian dishes, sushi, all kinds of white cheeses, chicken, seafood, many Asian dishes, and any fruit flavoured dishes, including desserts and salad dressings. The dunkelweizens are a bit more malty and caramely, and have less of the spiciness of the other weizens. They can stand up to more substantial dishes, including red meats and barbeque. Certainly try the German versions, but also sample those made by North American breweries, who have embraced this style of beer as well. Here are just a few of the wheat ales worth trying available in Alberta.
Germany If you want to try classic versions from die vaterland, there are a couple of dozen available in Alberta. Erdinger Weissbier (CSPC +402230) is probably the best seller, but don’t overlook Brau-Weisse from Ayinger (CSPC +721421), Maisel Weiss (CSPC +747285), Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier (CSPC +75291), and Schofferhofer Hefeweizen (CSPC +748129). Each of them is crisp, clean and full of the phenolic flavours of bananas and clove. They all come in 500 mL bottles (around $4-$5) and on tap.
In addition, look for the darker dunkel versions, which have a little more body, less of the fruity notes, and a touch of caramel and nutmeg. Still refreshing, but less tart. Available in 500 mL bottles and in draft. Maisel's Weisse Dunkel (CSPC +747286), Erdinger Weissbier Dunkel (CSPC +574236), and Weihenstephaner Dunkel (CSPC +125435) sell for about the same price as the paler versions.
North America Granville Island Brewery Hey Day Hefeweizen - from the left coast comes this light, easy drinking, unfiltered wheat ale. Not quite the depth of true German ales, it nonetheless has the crisp flavour that will make it a patio favourite. 6 Pack, $16 CSPC +110700 Howe Sound King Heffy Imperial Hefeweize - From B.C. comes a hefeweizen with a bit more punch. Clicking in at 7.7% ABV and 25 IBUs, this is not a wheat ale for the shy. 1L bottle, $11 CSPC +127571 Grasshopper Wheat Ale - If you haven’t seen or tried this beer, you must have just moved to Calgary. A stalwart of Big Rock’s portfolio, this kristallweizen has less of the fruity esters than other weizens. It is proud to use local wheat
Sherry Cask connoisseurs
WE ONLY PUT OUR NAME ON THE WORLD’S FINEST SHERRY CASKS. and now also comes unfiltered under the name Hefehopper. Look for it in draft at most bars and restaurants as well. 6 Pack, $16 CSPC +761737 Day of The Dead Hefeweizen - Yes, there is craft beer from Mexico. From one of the two burgeoning Latin craft beer markets (the other being Brazil), Alberta gets beer from a couple of Mexican producers. This hefeweizen is made with white wheat and American hops, making it slightly different from its German cousins. 6 Pack, $21 CSPC +764605
Nearly 70% of the flavour in whisky is derived from the cask it has been matured in. Wood’s important, which is why we adopt a ‘no compromise’ approach when choosing our world renowned Sherry casks to enrich our whisky.
Pour carefully, and rouse the yeast at the bottom after about ¾ of the beer is in the glass
Look also for the many varieties of wheat-based fruit beers. This includes radlers, commonly a 50/50 blend between a wheat ale and fruit juice, resulting in a 2.5% beer that tastes like it should, or could, be enjoyed at breakfast. While you know the halcyon days of summer will soon be over, you just might find yourself drinking these beers in all four seasons.
The GlenDronach - Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky Pioneers of sherry cask maturation since 1826 www.glendronachdistillery.co.uk
Beyond YYC: Portland by BJ OUDMAN
The city of Portland can be described by its many names - the City of Roses, the Bridge City… but my favourite is the “Mighty Gastropolis”, a name coined by Karen Brooks who has been Portland's resident food guru for over twenty years. A city known for its avant-garde spirit, home to over five hundred food trucks and bordered by agricultural richness, it is no surprise to Portlandians that it should be developing a name in both the national and international food scene.
Situated at the northern tip of Oregon, seventy miles inland from the Pacific Ocean, Portland is a fourteen hour drive or a short flight from Calgary. When is best to visit? I love the springflowering trees, which make the city vivid with colour. …known for its avantgarde spirit, home to over five hundred food trucks and bordered by agricultural richness Summers are preferred by most locals - dry days and warm nights extend the patio hours into the wee hours. Harvest in wine country along with festivals like Feast Portland and Fresh Hops make the fall appetizing. Check out Eat Beats
weekly planner (portlandmonthlymag. com) and Eater PDX (pdx.eater.com) to research year round food related events and activities. Although outlying suburbs make it seem larger, the city proper is home to only six hundred thousand residents. Similar to Calgary, it is divided into quadrants from east to west by the Willamette River and from north to south by Burnside Street. Portland is known for neighbourhoods that are not only geographically, but stylistically distinct. However, for a long weekend, downtown makes a good base of operations (their light rail system called “MAX” goes directly from the airport to the heart of the action).
You can eat all day just on the same block
An eclectic neighbourhood combining the sophistication of business and the character of spontaneous demonstrations or artistic performances in Pioneer Square, it also offers a diverse array of food options within easy walking distance.
Hipster types may want to stay at the Ace Hotel on Ankeny, between downtown and the Pearl district; other options for those that don’t need to be at the center of the action are the Mark Spencer Hotel or The Nines. You can eat all day just on the same block - breakfast and coffee at Stumptown Roasters in the hotel lobby; lunch at Kenny & Zuke's Deli one door down for an authentic heavily laden pastrami sandwich; happy hour with craft cocktails (try the Bourbon Renewal); and togarashi honey popcorn followed by a veritable feast of beef ribs with celery beer jam and skillet cornbread slathered with smoked bone marrow butter at Clyde Common. After dinner, head downstairs to Pepe Le Moko, an Algerian-influenced speakeasy bar run by renowned mixologist Jeffrey Morgenthaler.
The next day, meander a few blocks over to 12th Avenue. Portlandians brunch, so expect a line up on weekend mornings at hotspot Tasty & Alder. Order a Tasty Mary and try unique menu items such as the hangtown fry or bimbop bacon & eggs, but if the line is too long, try again for dinner and share plates of wagyu flatiron, Iberican pork skirt and Brazilian fish stew along with a side of grilled radicchio salad. Keep lunch casual with a spit roasted porchetta or smoked coppa cubano sandwich from Lardo (the sandwich shop that “worships at the altar of bovine and swine” and proclaims to have brought fat back) or handcrafted pasta at Grassa, their sister restaurant next door. Work lunch off by renting a Surrey (four wheeled) bike and cycle the bridge loop, traveling across Hawthorne bridge (home of USA's first bike traffic counter) and back across Steel bridge, a 47
double deck, vertical lift operating since 1912. Or just stroll the waterfront and stop in at Portland Saturday Market (actually held both Saturday and Sunday) from March to December; it is a unique experience some will love and some will prefer to avoid – fast food, art, T-shirts, bands, and buskers. All that exercise warrants a stop at the legendary VooDoo Doughnuts. Peak weekend hours guarantee line-ups around the block, but waiting it out will reward you with choices ranging from the bacon maple bar to the cockn-balls (it really is filled with Bavarian cream). Nearby, take an elevator ride up to the 30th floor of US Bancorp (the landmark pink glass building) and check out Portland City Grill; this popular happy hour destination has expansive views of Portland in all directions that make it worth the lift, even with no room in your stomach.
gastronomy food and cocktails of Spanish influence.
A must-do if you are visiting on a Saturday is the outdoor farmers market at Portland State University
Or travel with the Mediterranean Exploration Company (for $40/pp!) and be transported abroad with dishes like shalosh, mejadar and youvetsi. Top Chef fans can also visit last year’s contender Gregory Gourdet at Departure for Asian inspired dishes, or try Doug Adams’ buttermilk fried rabbit at Imperial.
After spending your day making choices, why not let a chef make the decisions and settle in for a tasting menu for dinner. Book a table at Racion for their five-course molecular
A must-do if you are visiting on a Saturday is the outdoor farmers market at Portland State University. Tables overflow with Oregon’s bounty - fresh fruits and vegetables, cheese, meat, and more. Generous samples from the
vendors may fill you up, but if not, share a Reggie at Pine State Biscuits the line can seem endless, but isn't fried chicken topped with bacon on a biscuit smothered in white gravy worth waiting for a minute or two? The streetcar stops directly in front of the market entrance, but walk back downtown along Park Avenue for leafy trees, shopping, and your metabolism! Venturing north from downtown, browse through Powell's, the world's largest independent book store, filling a whole city block.
Portland is well known for its brewing culture
End up in the Pearl district, a trendy, warehouse district redeveloped with condos. If you are visiting early in the month, take part in First Thursday, with entry into art galleries and lots of food and drinks-all generally free. Home to many restaurant options, the Pearl is an even better place for happy hour. Portland is well known for its brewing culture, and Deschutes, Rogue, Bridgeport, Fat Head’s, Pints and 10 Barrel Brewing all call this district 48
Lots of great eateries reside along 23rd, but do not miss a stop at Salt & Straw for farm to cone ice cream. In addition to Oprah's favourite flavour - arbequina olive oil - they offer a new seasonal series every month. The most unusual I sampled was sea urchin and mint – it worked! Finish up your day with happy hour and a game of pool or the fivecourse experience (for $36, $61 with wine) at Uptown Billiards Club.
home. If you prefer caffeine, hit up either Barista or Nossa Familia on 13th Avenue - the old train loading dock line, now pedestrian mall. Hop on the streetcar and head west to the Alphabet District. 23rd Avenue is the best walking street to explore small
independent shops. On a nice day, make a picnic with baguette from Ken's Artisan Bakery on 21st Avenue/Glisan and charcuterie from Chop on 21st Avenue/Johnson and take a walk in Forest Park, North America's largest forested urban park, where moss grows thick under dogwoods - right in the city!
White Port-o-Jito 3 Parts Taylor Fladgate White Port or Fonseca White Port 5 Parts Tonic Water Mint Leaves Twist of Lime to Garnish 3 mint mi leaves muddled over ice in a high ball glass,mix in White Port and Tonic, garnish with lime. A refreshing summer cocktail!
PRODUCT LOCATOR liquorconnect.com/164129 Follow us on Twitter @ABPWS | paciﬁcwineandspirits.com Proudly Represented by Paciﬁc Wine & Spirits Inc.
Venturing across the river leads to many other fabulous food finds. Beast, Holdfast and Le Pigeon for fine dining, Pok Pok and Langbaan for Thai, distillery row for hand-crafted spirits, and more breweries than you could visit in a month definitely require planning a return visit before you even depart!
BJ Oudman is a physical therapist with a passion for food and wine. She travels the world when she has time between consulting in both physical therapy and wine.
hospital, she saw how different the reality was to her romantic perception, and switched to study hospitality management at SAIT. Koyich opened Il Sogno restaurant only two years after graduating. In 2012, she was offered a teaching position at SAIT. “It was an opportunity to give back the future,” she says. “As I watched fine dining change over the course of the last fifteen years at Il Sogno, it caused me a great deal of anguish because I was raised in a house that wasn’t posh but the table was very important, so I really did assess what one restaurant can do impacting a city or what I can do impacting the future.”
Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL
“I love stickies,” says Patricia Koyich. “I’m a big fan of ‘liquid dessert’ as I call it.” Born and raised in Calgary, Koyich has been been in restaurants as long as she can remember, starting as a server at Boston Pizza and then on to more fine dining establishments. She had been accepted to study nursing, but while working for CIBC in Foothills 50
It was a big decision because she knew it was going to take her away from Il Sogno, but as she explains, “It’s a larger voice, and without the younger generation understanding why we sit down and why we use tablecloths, why we want a beautiful glass of wine or these incredible ingredients that cost a little bit more, we’re losing our customer base as well as our future restaurateurs.” So what bottle is Koyich saving for a special occasion? While working as a server at Inn On Lake Bonavista, she was invited to a wine tasting at the Palliser Hotel. “I’m so nerdy that I just love information and I wanted to learn more,” she laughs. “I walked in and this incredibly boisterous, lovely comical man, Bruce Guimaraens, was giving a talk on the importance of Port, the history, and his family, and I just never forgot his demeanour and his energy. I thought one day I’m going to meet him.” It’s said that luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity, and Koyich must be very lucky, as when Guimaraens next came to town the opportunity arose to run a winemaker dinner with him at Il Sogno. “It was a small room, so it was intimate and he was larger than life; he would hook the entire room,” she says. “At the end of
the evening, when I celebrated a bucket list check mark, we sat and talked about the industry, and about Port, and about his life. It just was a really special moment for me.” It became even more special as nine months later Guimaraens passed away, but every time his son, David Guimaraens, came into town he would stop by Il Sogno with the same style of storytelling that Koyich loved. Her bottle is Fonseca 2000 Vintage Port, “I bought this vintage as it was not only the year I opened Il Sogno,” she explains, “but it was also the vintage that David signed choosing ‘to the next generation’, so to me that’s him being the next generation of all those special moments, but also to the next generation of our future.” And when will she open the bottle? “When I open this bottle, I’m hoping it will be at the Fonseca property. When I travel for the first time to Portugal and visit the House of Fonseca, we have promised that I would bring it and we would pop the bottle there. I don't know yet when that’s going to be though,” Koyich says, but she’s hoping in a couple of years. “I think twenty years would probably be the perfect time to open it, but 17 years would be good too.”
T H E FA C E OF 4TH STREET #HALFY HOUR ½ P R I C E TA C O S & T E Q U I L A
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The Vintage Group collection of iconic restaurants have satisďŹ ed Calgary palates for over 18 years. Our locally-owned eateries oďŹ€er award-winning cuisine and exceptional service. With everything from authentic Southern BBQ to Canadian comfort food, prime steaks, hearty sandwiches, and premium fresh seafood, we take pride in creating a unique and memorable dining experience.
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Culinaire is Calgary's freshest food and beverage magazine. We celebrate the best in dining out, dining in, wine, beer, spirits and cocktail...
Published on May 30, 2015
Culinaire is Calgary's freshest food and beverage magazine. We celebrate the best in dining out, dining in, wine, beer, spirits and cocktail...