Culinaire #7:8 (January/February 2019)

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Chocolate Beer | Easy One Bowl Cakes| Cheddar Cheese!






Features 10

Culinaire’s 2019 Food Trends Alberta’s food scene has grown and changed hugely in recent years; what will the next 12 months hold for foodies? by Gwendolyn Richards

16 Taking Care of Business Balancing Work and Home Life by Phil Wilson

20 Cheese Glorious Cheese: The Cheddar Family by Daniel Bontje

26 What’s To Come On The Beverage Scene In 2019? Culinaire’s Drinks Trends by Tom Firth and Linda Garson


Lucky Lunar New Year Dishes The year of the pig arrives on February 5! We have suggestions for your New Year menu to bring good health and fortune. by Carmen Cheng

36 It’s The Time For Chocolate… and Spiced Beers! by David Nuttall

38 Making The (Half) Case …for dessert wines by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

39 Wallet Friendly Top Values Extra value wines by Tom Firth

28 Don’t Let The Name Fool You 42 Open That Bottle Dump cakes are awesome! Ivonne Martinez of Alberta Liquor by Natalie Findlay Store Association by Linda Garson 34 Winter Spirits Fireside whiskies – and a tequila! by Tom Firth and Linda Garson


Pork Farming For The Future Is agriculture a career for millennials? Christopher and Jessica Fasoli think so, and are redefining small hands-on farming. by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

8 Off The Menu – Flower & Wolf’s Almond Shortbread 9

Book Reviews – The Knifenerd Guide to Japanese Knives, and Maps, Markets, and Matzo Ball Soup


Chefs’ Tips and Tricks: The Year of the Soup


Step By Step: Cooking The Cheaper Cuts

40 Etcetera

On the Cover: When we’re talking Lunar New Year, it’s a pretty good bet that some fairly stunning photography will cross our desks – and indeed it did! Many thanks to Carmen Cheng and Dong Kim for the strikingly beautiful photograph of New Year accoutrements. 3

Letter From The Editor Have the New Year resolutions kicked in? The diet started, and gym membership acquired or renewed? 2019 marks the 40th anniversary of my first ever workout, which is scary enough in itself, but even though I only manage a hell-for-leather circuit once a week these days, I make myself do it–however little I feel like it.

Welcome back!

When you eat dinner out many nights of the week, and are lucky to be invited to meet winemakers and other visitors to the city many a lunchtime (and are only 5’2”), something has to give – and I’m determined it’s not going to be the elastic in my pants!

I hope your holidays were a time of merriment, and as fun and family-filled as you’d planned. But I really hope it was a celebratory time of wonderful, seasonal food and drink, shared with the people you love most – always the best!

Did I tell you why I eat out so often? Some of you will absolutely know why and will have joined me many times, but for those I’m less well acquainted with, I owe you an explanation – which comes with a little history of Culinaire.

Last month, I celebrated 13 years of Vine & Dine – that’s 10 or more public and private pairing dinners a month in restaurants all over Calgary – every month. And ongoing. Culinaire came about from the wonderful stories I wanted to share from my visits with chefs, winemakers, distillers, and brewers, but our big news is that Vine & Dine is moving under the umbrella of Culinaire to offer these educational, fun, and very tasty experiences, to everyone. For now these events are only in Calgary, but watch out Edmonton – we’re planning to bring the Culinaire Vine & Dine experience to you very soon too! Check out for our detailed event listings in January and February, and please join us! I hope to see you very soon, Cheers, Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

Voglia di girovagare. (VOH-lee-ah dee JEE-roh-vuh-GAR-eh)

Satisfy your ‘wanderlust’. Our shops showcase ingredients from all over the world to help you plan a culinary adventure - in your own kitchen.

No passport required. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. EDMONTON Little Italy | Southside | West End CALGARY Willow Park

ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES Editor-in-Chief/Publisher: Linda Garson Managing Editor: Tom Firth Multimedia Editor: Daniel Bontje Calgary Sales: Chris Clarke 587-998-2475 Calgary Sales: Candace Hiebert 403-816-1088 Edmonton Sales: Jenni Lavoie 587-336-7613

Our Contributors < Natalie Findlay

After a brief period with an Easy Bake Oven, Natalie’s mom allowed her to use the big girl’s oven and set her on the course for a life filled with delicious outcomes. Since graduating from Le Cordon Bleu, Natalie has worked in restaurants, hotels, bakeries, and her own business. Currently, Natalie is a freelance writer, recipe developer, and photographer, and is loving every minute of it.

Contributing Photographer: Ingrid Kuenzel Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Daniel Bontje Anna Brooks Carmen Cheng Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay Dong Kim Renee Kohlman Karen Miller David Nuttall Gwendolyn Richards Phil Wilson

< Dong Kim

Dong is a professional photographer, schoolbased children’s mental health consultant, and small business owner, but you’ll often find him traveling and eating his way through different cities and his hometown of Edmonton. His passion for food can be seen in the photography for various media including the “Edmonton Cooks” cookbook. Follow him @therealbuntcake and @shesaidyeah on Instagram.

< Phil Wilson

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 Twitter: @culinairemag Instagram: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online:

A food writer with a passion for local food, Phil spends his days testing out new recipes, enjoying expertly made drinks and sharing food with friends. He calls Edmonton home, where he lives with his wife, Robyn, and cats Baxter and Charlie. Phil’s blog,, covers Edmonton’s food scene, highlighting the best it has to offer through his Food Odyssey series. Follow him @baconhound and @realbaconhound.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.





In Partnership With

Salutes... 18 Calgary restaurants have joined Mealshare’s buy-one, give-one meal program! Welcome Bake my Day, Bridgette Bar, Broken Plate, Burwood Distillery, Cannibale, Dandy Brewing Company, Intenso, Greta Bar, Matador Steakhouse, Melrose Cafe & Bar, Model Milk, Modern Steak (Stephen Ave), One Night Stans, Pin Bar, Pigeonhole, Ruth’s Chris, Shelter, and Societe Coffeehouse. Are you a young sommelier between 21–31 years old who would like to compete for great travel and cash prizes? The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, the

world’s oldest and largest wine and food society, is inviting entries in their annual regional sommelier competition, with the winner advancing to the International Competition in South Korea in September. There is no cost to compete, so check out for details. Congratulations to Shokunin’s Darren Maclean for such a valiant showing in Netflix’s Final Table, representing not only Alberta, but Canada! Maclean, along with teammate Los Angeles chef Timothy Hollingsworth, beat out 22 internationally acclaimed chefs, many

with Michelin stars, to the finals. We can’t wait to hear more of his new restaurant opening in spring! 21 Alberta restaurants are included in OpenTable’s 2018 Top 100 Best Restaurants, making us the province with the second most featured restaurants after Ontario! Created from more than 500,000 diner reviews of over 2,500 restaurants across the country, Calgary features 16 restaurants – the second most of any Canadian city – Edmonton has four, and Banff has one. It’s hardly surprising that we never run out of places to talk about!

and Shout Outs... There’s still so much to tell you, so do sign up for our newsletter at to hear more news of Alberta’s dining scene! Calgary’s Phil & Sebastian has opened Hoopla Donuts in the +15 network of Calgary Place. Owners Phil Robertson and Sebastian Sztabzyb, along with Head Chef Leslie Morrow, worked through hundreds of variations to achieve the texture, flavour, and look they were after – joyful to eat and not overly fancy. Choose from 16 flavours including Root Beer Float, Matcha White Chocolate, and Uncommon Cider Apple – with vegan and gluten free options too! Weekdays 7:00-4:00. Right on trend is new plant-based Kanu Café, in downtown Edmonton on Jasper Avenue. First time restaurant owner Sherry Schluessel is hoping to make a distinction between vegan, vegetarian and “plant-based”, you won’t find any mock meats – plants are the stars of each dish. Look for Butternut Squash Nachos, Kelp Noodles and a raw, stacked lasagna with zucchini, sundried tomatoes and “macadamia ricotta” – all Instagram-worthy! Lunch and dinner weekdays, weekend dinners. 6

Enjoy local farmers’ markets? Trying new foods from local vendors? Happy days, the highly anticipated Avenida Food Hall & Fresh Market has opened its doors! On Lake Fraser Drive SE in Calgary, and with ample parking, there are more than 40 restaurants and stores waiting to tempt you in this bright and modern, airy space – and tempt you they will! We discovered many new and noteworthy eats just on our first visit, like Wild Rhubarb & Buck, Teff N Greens, and Takori by Duncan Ly! Thursday-Sunday 11:00– 8:00. Avenida Food Hall & Fresh Market

Gluten-free pioneer, Primal Cafe and Soup Company, has a new bricks and mortar location in Calgary’s Glamorgan area, on Richmond Road SW. Along with the Crossroads Market location, you’ll find all your favourite made from scratch soups using fresh market ingredients, coffees, pastries and cakes, every day 7:00-7:00 (6:00 on Sundays). Are you a take-out pizza aficionado? Calgary’s newest pizza spot, POW Pizza will challenge your idea of what that should look – and taste – like! Without Papers owners, Jesse Johnson and Angelo Contrada, have gone out on a limb with these “Detroit-spirited” pies; the cheese and tomato sauce are liberally slathered atop a super-thick crust after baking. Choose regular or large from six flavours, but get there before they run out! 7 days, noon-9:00. Welcome to Calgary’s Mission district, Mr. Chen’s Asian Brasserie! Local chef and restaurant veteran, Shaun Desaulniers, has teamed up with mixologist extraordinaire, Timo Salimaki, to bring us a late night spot with an excellent cocktail and wine list, and Asian inspired tapas-style plates from chef Shamir Bechara, all in a sexy and sultry, red environment. We really enjoyed our

Mr. Chen’s Asian Brasserie

Bison Carpaccio, Scallop and Salmon Sashimi, Wild Boar Potstickers, Potato Crusted Duck Breast… with creative cocktails from Shelby Goodwin and Ian Storcer. After 10 years of hobby distilling and two years of planning, Calgary’s newest micro distillery, Confluence Distillery, has released its Manchester Dry Gin and Headwater Vodka, both made from Innisfail Canada Prairie Spring Red Wheat, and both far exceeding expectations for a first release! Zip down to the cosy and delightful tasting room on 36 Avenue SE (closed Tuesday and Wednesday) or order online for shipping by Canada Post. We couldn’t be more excited for the opening of Bar Modern and Modern Steak downtown, their new second home in the former Catch location on Calgary’s Stephen Avenue. The gorgeous renovation has been no small feat in a heritage building, and we’re impressed that they’ve managed to retain the same black, white, and grey, upscale and stylish feel as the Kensington location, definitely maintaining the family resemblance. Celebration cocktails all round! Weekdays lunch and dinner, weekends 4:00-close. Modern Steak’s Bar Modern

Rioja & Alberta The Best of Both Worlds Announcing Rioja Alberta Month, celebrating Spain’s premier wine region. This February, Rioja is touring Alberta with 10 award-winning wineries. Join us for exciting activities and learn more about this historic region and its world class wines. WineFest Edmonton: Feb 15 & 16th Calgary: 22nd & 23rd Rioja Wine Dining Series Various Retailer Educational Tastings

For events near you, visit or Follow at #RiojaAlbertaMonth @RiojaWine_CA

Off The Menu by LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

You know how chefs always tell you how easy something is to make, “you just add this…” or “just whip up that”, which is fine if you’re a chef, and it’s second nature to you, but not so easy for us home enthusiasts.

After running three pairing dinners in November at the Sheraton Suites Calgary Eau Claire’s restaurant, Flower & Wolf, so many people asked for the recipe for the almond shortbread after wolfing it down as an accompaniment to the apple cheesecake with caramel, that we just had to ask Executive Chef Cole Glendinning for the recipe! Many thanks to Chef for sharing his recipe, it’s not only delicious but glutenfree too, and we’re ready to believe that this one really is as easy as it sounds!

Almond Shortbread 3 cups ground almond flour 1 cup soft butter ¹/³ cup icing sugar 2 tsp (10 mL) vanilla paste

Preheat oven to 330º F

1. In a mixer, cream the butter, icing sugar, and vanilla together with the paddle attachment. 2. Add the almond flour and mix in until incorporated.

3. Roll out the dough into ½ cm

thickness and put in the freezer for a few hours.

4. Bake from the freezer for 13 minutes or until golden brown

Break apart and enjoy! If there’s a dish in a restaurant
in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you! 8

Book Reviews by KAREN MILLER

The Knifenerd Guide to Japanese Knives

while providing an insight to the people behind them.

By Kevin Kent Long Ladder Media 2018, $45

The most useful knowledge will be the section that breaks down the different shapes of knives, what they should be used for, and how to have, or at least start, a Japanese knife collection.

As a self-professed nerd, Kent is almost the definition of a single minded expert (Oxford) when it comes to everything knives. He is a character full of life and crazy passion for the skills of Japanese knife making. Kent has travelled extensively in Japan, and now owns five Japanese knife shops across Canada. He tells the story about the craft and the craftsmen in Japan with personal knowledge of the dedication, hard work, and skills they possess. Although he talks about intrinsic details of the steel preference, firing process, hammering, and temperature control, these are personal stories about the masters.

Maps, Markets, and Matzo Ball Soup: The inspiring life of Gail Hall By Twyla Campbell Q32 Consulting 2018, $29.99

Not everyone in Alberta will know who Gail Hall is, but they should. She was an inspiration to the evolving food scene in this province. Hall was a mostly self-taught cook who started a small catering business with a small amount of cash, and turned it into a multi million-dollar enterprise. When that failed she moved on and became a food advocate for Alberta local food groups, starting with Slow Food and Growing Alberta, and developed her own food tourism business. Hall started with private cooking classes in her loft and conducting market tours in Edmonton on a regular basis, but expanded with culinary tours to Santa Fe, Louisiana, Italy, Argentina, and Peru, to name a few, each time totally immersing

Not much has changed in this industry in the last 1,200 years (there is still only one female). Japanese knives are made with harder steel than other knives so they tend to be thinner, sharper, and as a result usually more fragile, requiring more maintenance. Kent explains why the knives are so good, so sharp, and so beautiful, all

There is also lots of nerdy stuff in the book discussing how to make a knife, the different types of steels, combining other materials, the chemical reactions that occur, the decorations and the handles, and last but not least, the important care and maintenance and knife sharpening techniques. So as Kent professes, “If you have ever tried a Japanese knife, you will understand the difference, and that beautiful knives make people happy.” This guide will help discover the right Japanese knives so we can all be happy!

herself and the group in the culture of the food and the location. This story is based on Hall’s journals, numerous interviews with friends, and insights from her husband, Jon Hall, scattered throughout. Gail’s story did not begin with any special food training, but her traditional Jewish family was involved with the food business in Toronto, and she started out with recipes from those fond memories. Hall succeeded in getting attention by going above and beyond, and creating theatre for her events. Being part of The Christmas in November celebrations in Jasper, she became known and respected across the country. The memoir does embrace her "personal battle with cancer, but succeeds in staying very upbeat, reflecting on Hall’s attributes as an entrepreneur, ambassador, and good friend.

Campbell’s memoir is true storytelling, and shows great respect for this luminary in our province’s culinary history. Karen Miller is a former lawyer who got on the “know where your food comes from” bandwagon earlier than most and now focuses on foraging her daily food from local growers. 9

Fake Meat And Fermented Foods Expect To Be Highlights In 2019 by GWENDOLYN RICHARDS

So long smoothie bowls, and ciao anything made with charcoal. A new year is dawning and it’s time to move onward and upward from these — albeit highly photogenic — crazes, and all their well-worn counterparts to something new. Along with the fresh resolutions that are announced the day after a New Year’s Eve party, so too come the food and restaurant fads we can expect to see in 2019. Luckily for those including healthier eating on their goals list for the year, a lot of these food trends are leaning toward a better lifestyle — and, in one case, a way to keep calm and carry on through 2019.


Year of the Plant

If you’ve been eyeing up those ‘Beyond Meat’ burgers, thinking this is a thing you could get into, you’re in luck: “vegan-but-you-wouldn’t-know-it” eating is on the rise. Besides the faux burgers with their beefy taste and appearance, expect to see an uptick in jackfruit subbing as pulled pork or shredded chicken, or mushrooms tricking our taste buds with their umami flavour. Overall, the trend towards more meatless days is growing. These alternatives should make it even easier to move to a more plant-based diet — with no feelings of sacrifice. Along with meat fake-outs on the menu, vegetables themselves are

increasingly becoming the stars of the show. We’ll be seeing a shift in restaurants as more veg-focused offerings take up space on the menu — particularly with an introduction to some less-familiar greens. Ubiquitous kale will be joined by wild greens, such as dandelion leaves and sorrel. Call 2019 the year of the plant.

Take Out, and Top-Notch Delivery Services

Dinner in pyjamas with a side of Netflix no longer means delivery pizza is on the menu. The growing number of companies offering our favourite foods showing up right at our doors means take-out from topnotch restaurants is just a tap of an app away.

Door Dash, Foodora, Skip the Dishes, and Uber Eats all offer a wide range of cuisines and options, with even some of the city’s best restaurants now available to eat at home. And we expect to see more companies in the mix too.

Fermented Fare

Kombucha isn’t new — and it certainly isn’t going anywhere. However, 2019 should see a rise in other fermented foods that are good for the guts and tasty to boot. Korean classic kimchi is a regular standby these days. Watch other slightly sour options to join in, including kefir, sauerkraut and pickles.

Vinegar and Citrus

Speaking of sour, citrus and vinegar are going to be adding some zing to dishes this year. Besides standard lemons and limes, chefs will be reaching for their fancier cousins — Buddha’s hand, citron, kumquats. Meanwhile, vinegars will show there’s more to them than salad dressings. Filipino cuisine is starting to show its influence in dishes, with vinegar adding a nice spike of flavour to rich, braised meats and other dishes.

Brassica Showdown

Move over cauliflower, you’re not going to be top brassica for long. Sure, you can make pizza “crusts” from it and a cheeky take on Buffalo hot wings, but cauliflower is going to have to share space with cabbage on menus this year as it finds itself in the spotlight.

cannabis to infuse fats for at-home baking and cooking may be the buzz of 2019. Edibles are still not legal to sell, though when that finally does arrive, expect to see cuisine incorporating this ingredient. We’re well past the simplicity of a pot brownie here.

Expect people to take the same approach with this leafy vegetable as they do with the white-floret counterpart, with cabbage subbing in for standard starches, like noodles or tortillas.


With the legalization of cannabis nationwide, it’s not just pot dispensaries focusing on going green. Above board and open experimentation with using

Goodbye And Farewell Single-Use Plastics

Most spots have already said sayonara to plastic straws, but the move away from single-use plastics, such as containers or packaging is nowhere near stopping. Straws were just a solid first step. Consumers are becoming more aware and more wary of waste, and restaurants are following suit as sustainability becomes more than just a buzzword. Beyond the cutbacks on plastics, we’re going to see chefs playing around more with limiting food waste, along with paying even more attention to sourcing local foods. Restaurants will take greater steps toward zero-waste operations, finding more ways to use the parts of fruit, vegetables and meats that we once were quick to overlook.

Gwendolyn is a Calgary-based food writer and photographer and the author of Pucker: A Cookbook for Citrus Lovers. She is a regular contributor to several publications, writing about food trends, restaurants and recipes. 11

Chefs' Tips


The Year of the Soup by ANNA BROOKS photography by INGRID KUENZEL and DONG KIM

In the throes of an unforgiving Alberta winter, there’s really only one thing to do: eat as much food as possible. Preferably comfort food – and for us, nothing is more comforting than a hearty bowl of hot soup. 12

There aren’t too many dishes that can combine almost every food group and still be delicious – it’s one of the many reasons soup is so special. That, and soup can literally be whatever you want it to. Hot, cold, creamy, healthy, free of gluten (or full of gluten)… pretty much any ingredient you can imagine can gleefully be tossed in a soup. So to kick

off our 2019 issue, we spoke with four local soup savants to find out their best tips and tricks for making a superb winter soup. Black bean, baked potato, and roasted red pepper soup are a few favourites of Rachelle Paulencu, executive chef at Café Blackbird in Edmonton. All the soups she makes are vegan and gluten-free, but the bowls she serves up

1. Preheat oven to 425º F. Place

parsnips and carrots into a mixing bowl. Toss with two teaspoons of olive oil, and a pinch of salt and pepper.

2. Spread vegetables evenly over a

parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast in oven until parsnips are tender and golden brown, about 30 minutes.

3. Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a Chef Rachelle Paulencu

are so creamy, you wouldn’t know the difference. She says her trick for a rich, thick soup is all in the base.

large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and celery. Stirring frequently, cook until onions and celery have softened and are slightly browned. Reduce the heat to low.

“I always use vegetables to thicken soups – I don’t use any slurries like corn, flour, and water,” Paulencu says. “Any soup base you can thicken with a squash, gourd or potato. Make sure your ingredients are fork-tender beforehand, and just puree it all together for a nice, creamy base.”

4. Stir in butter, garlic, brown sugar,

Full of winter spice and root veggies, Paulencu’s recipe for parsnip soup is sure to warm (and fill) you up!

5. Season with ginger, cardamom,

Creamy Parsnip Soup Serves 4-6

450 g parsnips, peeled and chopped 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped 2 tsp (10 mL) olive oil ½ large yellow onion, diced 2 celery stalks, diced 1½ tsp butter (to make vegan, use dairy-free) 1½ tsp minced garlic 1½ tsp brown sugar ½ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp ground cardamom ¼ tsp ground allspice ¼ tsp ground nutmeg ¹/8 tsp cayenne pepper 2 cups (500 mL) vegetable stock 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil ½ cup (125 mL) unsweetened, dairy-free almond milk ½ cup (125 mL) full-fat coconut milk To taste salt and black pepper

Looking for the perfect venue to host your meeting? We cater to all sizes.

Use vegetables to thicken soups

roasted parsnips, and carrots. Cook an additional 10 minutes, stirring frequently. allspice, nutmeg, and cayenne pepper. Stir for one minute, making sure all vegetables are evenly coated.

Finish the evening with a glass of wine or a cocktail in our Lobby Lounge...

6. Pour in a splash of the vegetable

broth and stir to deglaze the bottom of the pot. Once deglazed, add remaining broth. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

7. When at a boil, reduce heat to medium-low. Partially cover and simmer gently until all the vegetables are fork tender, roughly 15 minutes. Remove from heat. 8. Using a blender, blend until creamy

and smooth. Stir in almond and coconut milk. Return to a simmer over mediumlow heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with a swirl of olive oil and cracked black pepper!

hotel blackfoot

Artichoke, Spinach, And Feta Chowder Serves 4

Margaret Nemeth

Soup is what Margaret Nemeth, founder of Primal Soup Company, lives for – and her customers do, too. With her new soup spot finally open in the Glamorgan neighbourhood of Calgary, Nemeth is busier than every whipping up her made-from-scratch soups, like Thai coconut chicken and African peanut veggie. She says the secret to many of her soups are seeds, an ingredient not as commonly used, but one that really enhances the flavour.

Incorporate flavours like herbs at the beginning “Everyone that tries my soups ask what that weird sweet taste is… it’s caraway seed,” Nemeth says. “It’s my favourite spice in the winter. You can also use fennel or coriander seeds. Roast them at the very beginning of your soup on high heat until the pods open up. It’s a beautiful thing to put in a tomato-based soup.” If you want a healthy soup that packs in all the savoury flavours of a Greek pizza, try Nemeth’s recipe for her famous artichoke, spinach and feta chowder! 14

¾ cup carrots, finely diced ¾ cup onions, finely diced ¾ cup celery, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tsp fennel seed ½ red pepper, finely diced 8 cups (2 L) vegetable broth 3 cups potatoes, diced 1 can (561 mL) artichokes, diced (save artichoke water for later) 1 tsp Greek seasoning 170 g crumbled feta 1 can (561 mL) fire roasted diced tomatoes 1 cup (250 mL) sour cream 2 cups (500 mL) heavy cream (18-33%) 1 cup fresh spinach, chopped To taste salt and pepper

1. In a large, good quality pot, heat a bit

of extra virgin olive oil on medium heat. Sautee onion, celery, carrot, garlic, red pepper, and fennel seeds until vegetables are translucent, and fennel seeds have cracked.

2. Add vegetable broth. Add potatoes, artichokes (including artichoke water), Greek seasoning, feta, tomatoes, and bring to a boil.

3. When the potatoes are almost soft, add sour cream, heavy cream, spinach, and salt and pepper.

4. Bring back to a boil, stirring

constantly. Remove from heat when it reaches a rolling boil.

For Sylvester Borowka, who runs the family-owned Continental Treat Fine Bistro in Edmonton, his Germaninspired soups take him right back to his childhood. The sour bite of borscht, the comfort of a classic sauerkraut and potato soup… these are just a few of his favourite winter warmups that are easy to make, and even easier to eat. One of Borowka’s tricks for elevating his dishes actually comes at the end of the cooking process. Garnishes are often decorative, but he says the right topping can lift the flavour profile of a soup from good, to I’ll-have-five-morebowls-please!

Always leave the seasoning till the end

“You can add enhancers to certain soups, like a bit of oil with blitzed garlic or a crème fraiche to kick it up a notch,” he says. “For a green pea soup, sautéing croutons with garlic gives an extra wonderful flavour to the soup and adds texture. It’s like finding a little treasure in your soup.” If you want to try making something extra special, Borowka lent us his dill pickle soup recipe that’s been in his family for almost 40 years! Sylvester Borowka

Brandy And Sambuca Mushroom Soup Serves 6

Dill Pickle Soup Serves 6

1 Cornish hen (to make vegetarian, omit hen) 2 bay leaves 4 large allspice seeds 2 medium-sized potatoes, cubed 12 cups (3 L) water 1 large onion, chopped 1 stick of celery 1 cup (250 mL) heavy cream (33%) 1½ medium-sized carrot, (shred half of it) 3 medium-sized pickles (they use Kiszone Polish pickles), shredded To taste salt and pepper

1. Clean hen and put it in a large pot with the water. Bring to a boil.

2. Reduce heat to medium, and add

carrot and celery sticks. Add onion, bay leaves, and allspice seeds. Boil for 45 minutes.

3. Add shredded pickles (including any pickle juice) and carrots. At around the one-hour mark, take out boiled carrots, celery, and chicken.

Chef Chris Prinz

The best soups are ones well seasoned and spiced, and strike you with every spoonful. To achieve the right balance, Chris Prinz, chef at 1918 Tap and Table in Calgary, says it’s important to incorporate flavours like herbs at the beginning when you’re making your onion, carrot, and celery mirepoix to infuse the base broth. But unlike most other dishes, he says to always leave the seasoning till the end—if you’ve over-salted your soup, there’s no going back. “If you’re using rosemary in your soup for example, I like to heat up the oil, add chopped rosemary and fry for five minutes – it adds more flavour to your soup,” he says. “Then you keep adding things to build layers of flavour. Cook your soup low and slow, and make sure you taste as you go.” Try Prinz’s twist on traditional with his brandy and Sambuca mushroom soup!

250 g red onion, diced 100 g celery, diced 150 g parsnip, diced 25 g ginger, minced 25 g garlic, minced 2 cups (500 mL) white wine 1 Tbs (15 mL) brandy 1 Tbs (15 mL ) Sambuca 1 Kg button mushrooms 113 g dried mushrooms 1½ Tbs flour 226 g butter 4 cups (1 L) chicken or vegetable stock 2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream Juice of one lemon To taste salt and pepper

1. Melt butter in a large pot. Add celery,

onion, parsnip, garlic, and ginger. Sauté for 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Add wine to deglaze. Reduce wine by half, and then add brandy and Sambuca.

3. Add flour, and cook for 5 to 8 minutes. 4. Soak dry mushrooms for 10 minutes. 5. Add button mushrooms and soaked

mushrooms (along with liquid) to the pot. Add stock and whipping cream.

6. Cook for one hour. Remove from

heat, and blend until you reach desired consistency.

7. Season with salt and pepper, and add the lemon juice.

4. Add cream and bring to a full boil.

After a few minutes, remove from heat.

5. Scoop out any chicken remnants

using a sieve. Add potatoes. Soup is ready to serve when potatoes are fork tender. Season with salt and pepper. *Tip: Save the leftover meat for another dish. Borowka recommends serving with cubed carrots, mashed potatoes, and a light cream-based sauce.

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist and graduate student currently living and studying in New York City. 15

Taking Care Of Business:

Balancing Work And Home Life by PHIL WILSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL and DONG KIM

They say you should never work with family. There’s a litany of valid reasons why people say it, yet everywhere you look there are small businesses not only making it work, but excelling while working with their partner day in and day out. For Roselina Hotchkiss, who co-owns the celebrated Edmonton restaurant, Bundok, with her partner Ryan, the opportunity to follow in her parents’ footsteps and work with her spouse makes her happy. “I feel really lucky we have a strong enough relationship to be able to do it. We make a pretty good team”. It also allows the couple to spend more time together which, with two young children, is precious. “Even if it’s just a trip to the Italian Market, I’ll take it”, she adds.


Working together in the business also means sharing in its success together, which is especially relevant with the restaurant placing 8th on Enroute Magazine’s latest Best New Restaurants list. According to Ryan, “Rosie is the only one who will ever love this place as much as I do.” Since they each perform different roles, both partners can feel a special pride in their contribution to the success. Doughnut Party and Moonshine Doughnuts

Having complementary skills and roles is also a big plus for Matthew Garrett and Simon Underwood of Edmonton’s Doughnut Party and Moonshine Doughnuts, who say their roles just separated naturally according to each partner’s personality and skill set. They say what made them compatible romantic partners also makes them compatible business partners. In addition to product testing, Matthew’s background in teaching makes him comfortable taking the lead and performing human resources tasks. Simon’s background in Library Science makes him comfortable engaging his methodical side with administrative work as well as running social media. Even with both partners gravitating towards their preferred roles, situations still arise where the two don’t agree. According to Matthew, “As much as we like to believe we are on the same page and always agree on everything, this is not the reality. Good communication is a constant work in progress.”


Bucking the trend of separating work and home, Laurel says that they really don’t do it. “The kids are often in the know on the daily operations of the business, which we think is a positive way to demonstrate the hard work and dedication it takes to be a small business owner. We also bring our family life into work with us, and that helps foster the feelings of extended family, and values we enjoy having with the great people we work with.”

Safari Grill

Maintaining good communication is also a key factor for Ali and Salima Moledina of Calgary’s Safari Grill. When issues arise, “We usually sit and talk it out. Communication is one of the strongest things about us as a couple.” Laurel and Brad O’Leary at Escoba in Calgary add that, “sometimes we just need to drop the conversation, or table it for another day,” because even when you try to keep business and personal things separate, “spillovers are bound to happen.” So merging work and home life is inevitable, but to hear Matthew and Escoba

Simon say, “It was not difficult to merge work and personal, but rather more challenging to separate them when we realized they shouldn’t be merged.” Ali and Salima add that a routine of arriving at and leaving work at the same time daily helps, as does keeping business and personal social media separate. Leaving work at work also ranks as the biggest challenge for Rosie and Ryan, who note that for them, having small children makes it easier to divert the conversation away from business and onto the kids regularly.

If one thing is clear, it’s that having a roster of people to lean on or help get your mind off business is important. Whether it’s turning your attention to your children, other family, or in Laurel and Brad’s case, Escoba General Manager Blair MacBeath, “who doubles as a couples therapist and mediator,” Laurel says with a laugh. Since Laurel handles the payroll, I think we can assume which side the mediator comes down on most often. Despite the potential conflicts, long hours, and the leaking of work life into personal, these couples make it work and work well. Though they all place great importance on communication, each has their own key to success. For Rosie and Ryan it’s leaving work at work, while Ali and Salima depend on understanding each other's strengths. Laurel and Brad credit working hard to let the little things go, while Simon and Matthew offer that, “patience, trust, and support cannot be underestimated or taken for granted. Love your partner more than you love the work.” The last sweet morsel of wisdom of working with your partner comes from doughnut maker Simon Garrett. He sums up perfectly why these couples all choose to do what they do: “We get to do something we love, with the person we love.” Phil Wilson is a food writer at Baconhound, Culinaire Magazine, and regular contributor for CBC Edmonton. Phil has a passion for comfort food, which is why he doesn’t own any speedos. 17

Step By Step: Cooking The Cheaper Cuts story and photography by RENEE KOHLMAN

These are cold, lean months, and virtually everyone is in financial recovery from the holidays. Cooking with cheaper cuts of meat will help stretch your grocery dollar, while not compromising on any flavour.

Tandoori Chicken Drumsticks Drumsticks are typically the overlooked part of the chicken in the meat cooler. They don’t get all of the glory like the thighs and breasts, but after eating (more like devouring) these drumsticks, I have a new affinity for them. Drumsticks are super affordable ($7 for just shy of a kilogram) and this recipe feeds 4-6 easily. The spicy, yogurt-based marinade makes the meat ever so tender, and the high heat ensures a crispy skin. Plus, the warm spices have a way of transporting us to warmer climes in the dead of winter. Be sure to have lots of napkins handy, as these tasty drumsticks are finger licking good. Serves 4-6 1 Tbs paprika 1 Tbs garam masala OR curry powder 1 Tbs ground cumin 1 Tbs ground coriander 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp cayenne pepper (use less for less heat) 3 Tbs grated fresh ginger 5 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 1/3 cup (80 mL) plain Greek yogurt Ÿ cup (60 mL) canola oil 2 Tbs (30 mL) fresh lime juice 1 lime, zested 2 tsp salt 8-12 chicken drumsticks mango chutney, for serving lime wedges, for serving cilantro, for garnish

1. In a small skillet over medium-low heat, combine the spices (paprika to 18

cayenne) and cook, stirring often, for about 2 minutes. The spices should become fragrant. Remove from the heat.

2. In a small food chopper or food

processor, combine the spices, ginger, garlic, yogurt, oil, lime juice, zest, and salt. Process until smooth.

3. Carefully, using a very sharp knife, make a few slashes in each of the drumsticks. This allows for greater surface area so the marinade can penetrate the meat.

4. Place the drumsticks in a shallow

glass dish and pour the marinade over them. Toss well, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, but for best results, overnight is optimal.

5. Preheat the oven to 450º F. Line a

baking sheet with aluminum foil. Set an oven-proof rack over the foil and grease it with canola oil. Arrange the chicken on the rack, spooning over any leftover marinade. Roast for 45 minutes, turning about halfway through. The chicken should be golden, crispy and cooked through. Serve on a platter with mango chutney, lime wedges, and cilantro.

Slow Roasted Smoked Picnic Ham If you really want to stretch your dollar, roasting a picnic ham or pork shoulder is where it’s at. I found a 2 Kg bone-in picnic ham for just under $12. This is enough meat for four meals, be they pulled pork sandwiches, tacos, etc. The slow roasting of the pork shoulder ensures, tender, fall off the bone meat that has loads of flavour. I love using this cut for meal prep, as the meat freezes very well. Enough for four meals, each for four people. 2 Kg bone-in whole smoked picnic ham or pork shoulder 2 carrots 2 celery stalks

one hour before you want to cook it. This allows it to come up to room temperature, and ensures even cooking.

celery into chunks. Remove the pan from the oven and carefully lift the pork onto a baking sheet. Stir the vegetables, garlic and bay leaves into the fat. I also like to add potatoes if I’m making this as a meal for my family. Place the pork on top of the veg and return the pan to the oven where it will roast covered for another hour, until the meat and veg are tender.

2. Preheat the oven to 425º F. Season

5. Remove the pan from the oven and

3. Place the pork skin-side up, in a

6. If you are using this as a Sunday roast, just pull the meat apart and serve on a platter with the vegetables. If you are planning ahead and want to use the meat for pulled pork, tacos, carnitas, on pizza, sandwiches, etc, just shred with your hands when the meat is cool enough to handle comfortably.

1 red onion 6 garlic cloves 4 bay leaves Handful of potatoes (optional)

1. Remove the pork from the fridge

the meat with some freshly ground pepper. The picnic ham is smoked and already salty, thus no need for any more salt. roasting pan and roast for 30 minutes uncovered. Turn the heat down to 300º F, remove the pork from the oven and cover it snugly with aluminum foil. Return the pan to the oven and cook for another 5 hours.

4. Just before you remove the pork from the oven, peel and slice the onion into quarters. Chop the carrots and

tent it with foil for 15 minutes. The meat should be falling off the bone. If you twist a fork in the side, it should move very easily.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year. 19

Cheese Glorious Cheese:

The Cheddar Family by DANIEL BONTJE photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Cheddar cheese There is a wide variety of flavours from within this family of hard cheeses, from mild to extra sharp, but they all share some similar characteristics – firm and often crumbly may have started as (especially more traditional cheddars) and an off-white colour unless they have been dyed a British staple, but orange with spices such annatto or paprika. Grab a strong, wide-blade knife and dive in! it has spread all over and become, by some estimates, the most Agropur Grand Cheddar Marble Cheese Unaged popular cheese in the Aged 5 years world. After being aged for five years, much of the Don’t overthink it! This is real cheese, moisture has dissipated from Agropur’s Grand Cheddar, leaving it very dense and firm but still easy to slice and not overly crumbly. The long aging process also intensifies the flavour - this cheese packs a punch! Dried fruit makes a great pairing on a cheese board as the sweetness of the fruit balances the sharpness of the cheddar.

with half of the curds dyed with spices before they are combined to form the classic cheese we all grew up with. As a young cheese, the lower price tag makes marble cheese perfect for casseroles, tacos, or any recipe that needs quantity over intense flavour.


Aged at least 1 year Of all these cheddars, only this PEImade cheese is cloth bound during the aging process. Avonlea, named after the mythical home of Anne of Green Gables, is crumbly and earthy with a flavour that is a little gentler on the palate than the older cheddars. Taste carefully for notes of grass and hay!


Aged 18 months This is a classic example of an old school, robust British cheddar. As you bite into it, you will notice the calcium lactate crystals (a type of salt) that you will crunch through for an extra burst of flavour. This is a cheese that loves to be paired with something a little sweet – think pears and apple pies, port, or even chocolate if you are feeling bold. 20

Oak Manor Irish Porter Aged less than 1 year

With its striking mosaic appearance from the porter it is made with, this cheese may surprise you with how familiar it feels. Much like a classic block cheddar, this cheese is softer in texture and milder in flavour than aged cheddars, making it easy to slice and easy to eat.

Eager to try new things, Dan balances his love of cooking with his love of eating, and can be found scouring the city for new recipes and restaurants to share.

: : Ja nu ary/February Cu lin a ire V in e & Din e S e rie s : : January pairing dinners...

Vero Bistro

Thursday 17, Thursday 24, or Thursday 31 Vero Bistro is voted #1 of 3,263 restaurants in Calgary and 4th in the whole of Canada, by TripAdvisor! There’s a choice of three nights for these dinners of six impeccable, carefully created, and beautifully served pairing courses.

ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen

Friday 18 ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen’s beautiful new Lincoln Park location is home to this six-course pairing dinner, with recipes and demonstrations ~ and secrets from the best!

Seasons Of Bowness Park

Wednesday 23 Six courses of Chef Pontsang’s carefully created dishes are specially paired to complement his diverse culinary experience and flavours in this winter wonderland. All January dinners are $78.75 per person + grats & gst

and in February...

Fine Japanese Tea Tasting

Sunday 10, 3:00-5:00pm It’s a special Sunday afternoon when certified tea sommelier, Michiko Ono, takes us through six very different fine teas, with Japa Café’s superb tea snacks. $38.75 ++

Vine & Dine Wine Course

Q Haute Cuisine

February is Rioja Alberta Month!

Modern Steak

Mondays 4, 11, and 25, 6:00-9:00 Vine & Dine’s 60th Wine Course! A three-part course designed for anyone who enjoys wine, and would like to gain a broad-based appreciation of the world’s
grape varietals and foods that pair with them. Thorncliffe Greenmount Community Centre, $262.50 for all three nights. 10 award-winning wineries from Spain’s premier wine region are touring our province in February, hosting tastings and dinners in both Edmonton and Calgary! Check out for details and reservations for Edmonton dinners at Ruth’s Chris, Clementine, The Marc, Partake, and Wilfred’s, February 14-19!

Wednesday 20 Hugo Urquiza of Vivanco and Sergio Soriano of El Coto and Baron de Ley join forces at Q Haute Cuisine for an upscale fine dining experience. Welcome wine and canapes are followed by a sumptuous four-course meal, with six wines. $124.50 ++ Thursday 21 Toni Batet of CVNE, one of Spain’s most historic wineries, takes you through his wines at Modern Steak’s brand new 8 Avenue location. A welcome wine and canapes are followed by a first-class four-course meal, with six wines. $124.50 ++

Safari Grill

In Calgary, Wines of Rioja events include: Sunday 24 Bodegas Muriel owner, Javier Murua, Alloy is the founder of Maga Foundation, Wednesday 13 a charity supporting projects for José Luís Muguiro Jr. is the third generation children in developing nations. His to work in his family business at the six-course wine-pairing dinner is a Marqués de Riscal Winery, and he’s taking fundraiser for children’s education in you through his wines, including the Sierra Leone. $105.00 ++ super-premium, flagship Baron Chirel, over a superb four-course meal at Alloy. Workshop Kitchen + Culture $105.00 ++ Wednesday 27 The Rioja month finale brings together Las Canarias some of the most popular wines tasted Tuesday 19 during the month, with an outstanding Sixth generation Bodegas Osborne four-course dinner from Chef Kenny vintner, Rocio Osborne, presents her Kaechele. $105++ family’s Montecillo wines at this five-course, authentic Spanish tapas meal Unless otherwise mentioned, all at Las Canarias. $87.75 ++ events are 6:30-9:00.

: : F or d e t ai l s and t o reserve your plac e s in Calg ar y, visit cu lin aire mag az in e .ca/eve n t s : : 21

Poon Choi, Taste of Asia

Pig-Out On Lucky Lunar New Year Dishes story and photography by CARMEN CHENG

Growing up, I eagerly anticipated Chinese New Year when family and friends would visit from around the world.

And perhaps more importantly, Chinese New Year visits with family meant receiving gifts of money in little red envelopes. Now in my adulthood, I’ve come to appreciate these family gatherings as a time to catch up with loved ones over a New Year feast. In 2019, the year of the pig arrives on February 5. Lunar New Year is commonly


associated with Chinese New Year, however the lunar New Year is celebrated in different Asian countries including Korea, Vietnam, and Malaysia. Dishes found at New Year feasts may differ according to ingredients and customs of each country, but will generally include dishes that have an auspicious meaning, and are intended to

bring prosperity or good health for the New Year. We’ve listed a few for you to seek out for a lucky Lunar New Year.

Family Style Specialty Dinners Eating family style is typical for dinners in Asia, with large platters making their way onto tables for guests to share. Traditional dishes that you might find at Chinese New Year banquets include steamed fish and roast chicken. There is a Chinese saying, “with head, with tail”, which indicates successful completion for what you have started. This is why the crispy skinned roast chicken will often appear on the table with its head and tail intact. Likewise, fish is traditionally steamed whole with aromatics such as ginger, green onions, and soy sauce.

The year of the pig arrives on February 5

Thit Kho, Pure Contemporary Vietnamese Kitchen

In Malaysia and Singapore, an interactive raw fish salad is popular for Chinese families to ring in the New Year. Lo Hei literally means “tossing good fortune”. A large platter is assembled with colourful strips of vegetables and raw fish. Guests toss the ingredients together while shouting auspicious phrases. It is said that the higher you toss, the more prosperous your year will be. Where to eat this:

There is an additional significance to serving fish as the Chinese word for fish “yu” sounds like the word for “surplus”, indicating an abundance of luck and fortune for the upcoming year. Noodles are often served near the end of a banquet. According to Chinese tradition, noodles served on Chinese New Year bring longevity for a long life, and are generally uncut. Outside banquet-style meals, Poon Choi, which translates into “big bowl”, is a one-pot dinner with layers of different ingredients. Guests gather around and share from the same pot. For New Year’s, the ingredients are carefully selected and may include more valuable ingredients such as abalone, oysters, or sea cucumber.

Two Penny (Calgary) is offering a banquet menu, featuring some of their signature dishes and special celebratory features. New Year calls for celebratory toasting, and Two Penny has you covered with cocktails or tea to pair with the meal. Make reservations in advance. Looking to try a special new year Poon Choi? In Calgary Poon Choi is available at Sun’s BBQ Restaurant and T.Pot China Bistro for dine-in or take-out (a deposit on the large pot may be required for take-out orders). In Edmonton, contact Beijing Beijing to order Poon Choi.

Rice Rice plays a prominent role in most Asian cuisine and in many of the New Year traditions.

In Korea and China, rice cakes are eaten at New Year celebrations.

Tteokguk is a Korean soup made with round discs of rice cakes. The rice cakes resemble coins, representing prosperity, and they are served in a broth garnished with thin slices of omelette and seaweed. Vietnamese families will often gather together to make sticky rice stuffed with pork and mung bean. The rice is moulded into either a square shape (Banh Chung) or a cylindrical log (Banh Tet), then wrapped with banana leaves and cooked in a pot of boiling water. This rice dish is often served with pickled onions and vegetables. Although labour-intensive, the act of making this dish represents family unity. Where to eat this: Pure Contemporary Vietnamese Kitchen, (Calgary) will be serving Banh Chung during the new year. Order it with the Thit Kho, caramelized pork belly and hard-boiled eggs braised with young coconut and fish sauce. This sweet and savoury dish is packed with flavour and symbolizes happiness and wealth for the year. 23

Nongbu Korean Eatery (Edmonton) will feature Tteokguk during Lunar New Year. Korean custom dictates by eating the bowl of soup one becomes a year older. This comforting broth is loaded with chewy rice cakes to bring you fortune. While you’re here, get an order of their seasonal pancakes or Jeo, a common New Year’s dish.

Dumplings Making dumplings is a tradition for many Asian families. Since dumplings are shaped like gold nuggets, it is believed that eating dumplings will bring wealth for the coming year. In Chinese households, you may find steamed or pan-fried dumplings at New Year meals, whereas Korean households might serve Manduguk, or broth with dumplings.

Dishes generally have an auspicious meaning, to bring prosperity or good health Where to eat this: If pinching dumplings for hours sounds daunting, pick up the Lunar New Year Pack from Honest Dumplings (Edmonton and Calgary areas). Their dumplings are made with local Honest Dumplings


Taste of Asia

ingredients and don’t contain MSG or preservatives. This limited edition pack includes three varieties: Cumin Lamb, Mapo Tofu, and Pineapple Sweet and Sour Pork. Available late January and early February through Honest Dumplings or select retailers across the province including Spud, The Organic Box, Blush Lane Market, Community Natural Foods, and Sunnyside Natural Market.

Cakes & Sweets It is customary to visit loved ones during Lunar New Year to pay respects and bring gifts. Families will often have a tray

of sweets, candied fruit, and cookies on hand to offer guests. Chinese families may make cakes to gift to friends. The most popular Chinese New Year cake is a sweet and sticky treat made from glutinous rice flour and brown sugar. The name Nian Gao sounds similar to the word for “advancement”. Turnip cakes, or Lo Bak Gao is also a popular dish to bring to friends, and made with rice flour, savoury Chinese sausage, and dried shrimp. Nowadays, many may prefer to purchase sweets or cakes from bakeries and restaurants to save on time.

Taste of Asia

In Singapore and Malaysia, specialty bakeries will sell gift boxes of delectable pineapple tarts, Kuih Momo cookies, layered cakes, and peanut cookies. Where to eat this: Molly’s Eats (Edmonton) is making Malaysian treats commonly enjoyed during Lunar New Year including Thousand Layer Cake and Kuih Momo, which are rich cookies made from clarified butter. Look for Kuih Kapek or Love Letters, which resemble folded crispy crepes and are fragrant with coconut and egg. Available at Molly’s Eats at the University of Alberta Farmer’s Market or Filistix at the University of Alberta Students Union Building. The Taste of Asia Group (Calgary) will be selling a variety of New Year cakes at each of their locations – Sun’s BBQ Restaurant, Calgary Court, and T.Pot China Bistro. Cake selection ranges from savoury ones such as Taro & Pumpkin with Preserved Meat in XO Sauce to sweet treats like their Sweet Ginger Rice Cake. They come boxed and are perfect New Year gifts for friends and family. In Edmonton, Beijing Beijing is also well known for their New Year cakes, including the popular Turnip Cake and Water Chestnut Cake. If you’re inclined to cook your own Lunar New Year feast, try out this recipe by Chef Andrew Fung from XIX Nineteen. Carmen Cheng comes from a long line of food lovers and notorious over-orderers. She loves traveling, learning about different cuisines, and sharing her food adventures on social media.

Braised Pork Belly & Shiitake Mushrooms 1 to 1.25 Kg pork belly, skin on, cut into 2.5 cm slices 2 Tbs (30 mL) vegetable oil 1 shallot ½ bunch green onion, sliced coarsely 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 star anise 2 cm - 5 cm ginger, sliced thinly ¼ cup (60 mL) rice wine 1 cup (240 mL) chicken stock (more for reserve) ¼ cup (60 mL) light soy sauce 1 Tbs (15 mL) dark soy sauce ¼ cup cane sugar ½ cup dried shiitake mushrooms, covered in water and soaked overnight

Preheat oven to 325º F

1. Blanch pork belly in boiling water

for 5 mins. Remove and transfer to a bowl of ice water to for 2 mins. Transfer pork to paper towels, and pat dry.

2. Heat 2 Tbs (30 mL) of vegetable oil in an oven-safe medium pot. Sear pork belly until golden brown on each side. Transfer pork slices to dish. Drain the oil from the pork belly.

3. Add shallot, green onion, garlic, star

anise, and ginger to pan. Saute together for 2-3 mins, add rice wine, chicken stock, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, sugar, and shiitake mushrooms. Scrape up any browned bits from the pork. Bring it to boil then cover with an oven safe lid.

4. Add pork back into the pot, mix to coat the pork with the sauce. Transfer to oven and braise at 325º F for 2½ hours. Check on the pork every 30 minutes and add more chicken broth if the sauce has evaporated, stir the broth into the sauce. 5. Remove pork belly and mushroom from the pot. Set aside. Discard star anise from sauce.

6. Reduce the liquid on the stovetop in the pan until it thickens to the consistency of a glaze.

7. Assemble pork belly slices and

shiitake mushrooms on a raised dish or shallow bowl. Pour glaze over the pork belly and mushrooms. Serve with rice. Recipe Note: to make this an even more auspicious dish, soak ½ cup dried oysters overnight and add to the dish along with the shiitake mushrooms. The Chinese word for “oyster” sounds like “good fortune”. Dried oysters can be found at Asian markets. 25

What’s To Come On The Beverage Scene In 2019? by TOM FIRTH and LINDA GARSON

Will it be a continuation of the trends we’ve seen this year and last, or will we see some new and dynamic trends emerge? --First off, local craft spirits are here to stay. But several years on since the rules changed that fuelled this craft boom, we’re expecting fewer new openings, and further consolidation of existing producers as they settle into house styles. --Interest in cocktails stays strong, which could lead to more unusual expressions of spirits. Will we see locally made amaro or aquavit? Hopefully! They’re already being produced in B.C. We can also expect to see add-ons of spices and botanicals with white spirits, to mix your own flavoured spirits. --As more local distilleries reach the three-year mark, brown spirits will start taking centre stage. We’ve already seen the second release of Eau Claire’s whisky, and soon we expect most craft distillers to follow suit with their whiskies – and can’t wait to see how these come along. 26

--For beer, we’re enjoying a near embarrassment of riches, virtually every bar or watering hole has Alberta-made beer available, and it’s easier than ever before to share a great glass of something locally made. --On the wine front, folks are still interested in wines that represent good value, but express that sense of place. To that end, white wines from around the world utilizing indigenous or uncommon varieties should continue to excite the palate and stock cellars. --Not to be outdone, red wines will hopefully continue to move ever so slowly away from the over-the-top fruit bombs or velvety reds, and this might be the year for gamay or tempranillo. --We love the “drink less but better” movement, and we can expect to see more premium wines in the market

from countries better known for their entry-level offerings, such as Chile and Argentina. --Orange and natural wines are here to stay, and organic continues to gain traction – but watch out for Japan – more premium sakes, whiskies, and wines too are on the way! --If we are lucky, consumers will continue to discover wines of Spain, Portugal, and other parts of Europe too, while Canadian wine continually improves and is comparable in quality and expression if you are willing to pay more than about $25 a bottle. British Columbia’s wines are still widely available to us, and well suited to our cuisine and interest in “local” products. --Maybe this is the year for ease of movement across provincial borders, and “Free My Grapes” becomes a reality. We live in hope – well, it is an election year!

WON’T YOU GO WALTZING MATILDA WITH ME? With t he w i n d a t your b a ck a n d a j um b uck b y your si d e , your tucke r b a g com f orta b ly on your should e r. Ref l ec t o n the p la ce s you’v e b e e n a n d look f orw a rd to the n e x t, th e S w a g m a n w i ll q ue n ch your thi rst f or a d v e n ture . L e a rn m ore a t w a lt z ing ma t ild a w ine . co m PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

Andrew Peller Ltd / Waltzing Matilda Culinaire / 2018 October 26, 2018 8:31 AM




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Often, Canadian bootleggers would blend, age and transport Whisky in used cocoa barrels. The leftover cocoa husks would infuse the smooth rye with rich, warm chocolate flavours, creating something unique and delicious. Please drink responsibly

Don’t Let The Name Fool You: Dump Cakes Are Awesome! story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

These cakes are quick and crazy-easy to make – without much work or a big mess to clean up. This cake style will be like having your own personal pastry chef in the house.

Gingerbread Spiced Dump Cake


Amazingly, you don’t have to make a large cake or even measure out your ingredients exactly. You can use a store bought cake mix as the cake layer, and pile in your favourite ingredients to make it your own. You will love how easy it is to whip up a treat for your kids when they have had a particularly hard day at school or when your partner has been away on a business trip and you want a quick surprise.



You don’t have to measure out your ingredients exactly Or maybe you’ve never baked anything before because you heard that baking is like science and well, you don’t do science. Fear not, dump cakes will set you free. You now have complete permission to not follow the rules. Be creative, have fun, and mostly just make something that makes you happy. The first thing to do for any of these recipes or when you are making up your own, is to decide how many servings you want and find the appropriate size ovenproof container. Dump cakes can easily work for just one or expanded to feed a crowd.

Gingerbread Spiced Dump Cake Serves 2

3 Tbs (45 mL) pumpkin puree 1 Tbs (15mL) molasses 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp cinnamon Pinch ground cloves 1 Tbs candied ginger, rough chopped 1 Tbs toffee chips ¹/³ cup chocolate cake mix 1 Tbs chocolate chips 1½ Tbs butter Whipped cream (optional) Cinnamon sprinkle

Preheat oven to 350º F. Mix puree, molasses, ground ginger, cinnamon, and cloves in a small bowl. Pour into baking dish and add the candied ginger. Add the toffee chips. Dump the cake mix straight from the box on top. Cut butter into small pieces and dot across the cake mix. Add the chocolate chips. Bake approximately 30 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.

Tuesday, February 26 - 7pm Celebrity cruises will be at The Hotel Arts - 119 12 Avenue SW, Calgary for 1 night only. Mingle with the Celebrity & Expedia® CruiseShipCenters® teams who will help you book your cruise of a lifetime. This is the ultimate night to book your next cruise vacation! • Take advantage of incredible offers that will only be available when booking at the event. • Enjoy complimentary hors d’oeuvres and cocktail samples served Modern Luxury style, inspired by Celebrity Cruises incredible destinations. • Plus enter to win prizes including a FREE CRUISE!


(403) 278 7447 25, 11440 Braeside Drive SW, Calgary

(877) 317 7327 135, 333 Aspen Glen Landing S.W., Calgary

(403) 208 3743 #727 - 5005 Dalhousie Drive N.W., Calgary

(800) 205 7447 #145 9919 Fairmount Drive SE, Calgary

(800) 807 9786 1701 Centre St NW, Calgary

Spiced Apple, Pear, Pecan Dump Cake Serves 2-3

1 apple, peeled, cored and roughly chopped 1 pear, peeled, cored and roughly chopped 1 Tbs butter 1 Tbs brown sugar 1 tsp ground cinnamon Pinch nutmeg ½ lemon zest and juice ¾ cup yellow cake mix ¼ cup butter 3 Tbs pecans, roughly chopped

Preheat oven to 350º F.

1. In a small sauté pan over low heat,

add apple, pear, and butter and cook for approximately 3 minutes.

another 5 minutes. Add mixture to your baking dish.

and dot across the cake mix. Sprinkle pecans on top.

2. Add brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg,

3. Dump the cake mix straight from the

4. Bake approximately 30 minutes or

lemon zest, and lemon juice. Cook for

box on top. Cut butter into small pieces

until a toothpick comes out clean.

Pumpkin Ginger Dump Cake Serves 2-3

1 cup (250 mL) pumpkin puree 1 egg 3 Tbs (45mL) maple syrup 1 tsp ground cinnamon ¾ cup yellow cake mix ¼ cup butter 2 Tbs walnuts, roughly chopped

Dump cakes can easily work for just one

Preheat oven to 350F. Butter your baking dish. In a medium bowl mix puree, egg, maple syrup and cinnamon. Add the puree mixture to baking dish. Dump the cake mixture straight from the box on top. Cut butter into small pieces and dot across the cake mix. Sprinkle the walnuts on top. Bake approximately 30 minutes. 30

Churrascaria & Restaurante

Black Forest Dump Cake Serves 2

¹/³ cup sour cherries and juice ²/³ cup chocolate cake mix 1 Tbs chocolate chips 1 Tbs butter Whipped cream (optional)

Preheat oven to 350º F. Add the cherries in the bottom of your baking dish. Dump the cake mix straight from the box on top of the cherries. Add chocolate chips. Cut butter into small pieces and dot across the cake mix. Bake approximately 30 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.

Peach Dump Cake Serves 1

¹/³ cup peaches

1 Tbs candied ginger, chopped 3 Tbs yellow cake mix 1 Tbs oats 1 Tbs butter

Preheat oven to 350º F. Layer peaches in the bottom of your baking dish. Add the ginger. Dump the cake mix straight from the box on top of the peaches and ginger. Cut butter into small pieces and dot across the cake mix. Sprinkle oats over the top. Bake approximately 30 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Imagination is your only limit to making your best dump cake. Get in the kitchen already! Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

(403) 454-2550 136 2nd STREET SW www.minassteakhouse.coM


Bear And The Flower: Pork Farming For The Future by ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

A concern of many farmers in Alberta is whether or not younger generations will go into agriculture and carry on the tradition of the family farm. Christopher and Jessica Fasoli, the couple behind Bear and the Flower, a free range pork farm near Irricana, are proving that millennial farmers can not only make a living in agriculture, but are helping to redefine the way we think of small hands-on farming. After growing up on a cattle ranch, Christopher decided to pursue a career in manufacturing while Jessica did school counseling work. Since they already owned some land from Christopher’s family farm, the couple decided to utilize it to generate some extra income, but they didn’t want to go with an expensive and labour-intensive product like cattle. Knowing that pigs were easier and cheaper to keep, and turned over much more quickly than cattle, the Fasolis 32

decided pork was their best bet and Bear and the Flower was born in late 2015. Without the resources to build an industrial pig barn, the Fasolis decided that they’d go for an outdoor free-range farm. Their pigs live outside all year and have plenty of room to roam, with free rein of the farm’s ample pastures in the summer and an 11-acre paddock to cozy up in for the winter.

Why would we raise something that we wouldn’t purchase ourselves? While the outdoor set-up made economic sense, it also fit with the couple’s personal beliefs. With all that

space, each pig generally takes more steps in a week than a conventionally raised pig would in its entire life. “It’s about the ethics and the quality of the pork,” Christopher says. “Jessica and I personally buy top-quality locally raised products, so why would we raise something that we wouldn’t purchase ourselves?” But ethics alone doesn’t make for greattasting pork. Knowing that they would have to attract top chefs and foodies to make the farm work, Christopher and Jessica had to figure out how to produce pigs that weren’t just happy, but also delicious. After receiving feedback in their first year that their pork was too fatty, the Fasolis sought the council of professional animal nutritionists and geneticists.

They ended up crossbreeding Duroc and Landrace pigs for an animal that is disposed to raising piglets, can withstand the Canadian winter (Durocs were developed in North America), have the right level of fat marbling, and a nice flavour profile.

“You can get your Omega-3s by eating a piece of our pork”

Of course, feed makes a difference too – to both the end user and the pig itself. Bear and the Flower’s pigs don’t just eat a feed mix that gives their meat the optimal amount of fat marbling – nutritionists also add flax to their diets to keep them healthy through the harsh Alberta winter. The vitamins from that flax end up in the final product and as a result, every piece of Bear and the Flower pork qualifies as a source of Omega-3. “We actually tested three times the required amount of Omega-3 for certification,” Jessica says. “We didn’t even know that was going to happen when we started feeding them the flax. Most people think they need to eat salmon to get that, but you can get your Omega-3s by eating a piece of our pork.”

Through all of this, as well as a good marketing sense and the ability to form easy relationships with other young food professionals, Christopher and Jessica have grown Bear and the Flower well beyond the passive secondary income that they were hoping for when they set up the farm. They both work full time with the company, which now has five additional employees. Three years into their operation they’re selling an average of 60 to 80 hogs a week with about 1,600 animals on the farm at any given time.

Circus and OEB in Calgary, Chartier and the River Cree Resort and Casino in the Edmonton area, and the Banff Centre and the Juniper Bistro in Banff. They’re also selling whole hogs to butcher shops and sausage makers like Calgary’s Empire Provisions. And the business is growing: clients like Calgary’s Concorde Group and the Calgary Stampede are able to order in bulk and spread different cuts among different properties and events so that the farm is able to sell off less desirable cuts like legs and shoulders as well as the prized loins and bellies.

Bear and the Flower pork is showing up by name on a number of menus in Alberta, There’s also a deal in the works to provide at renowned restaurants like Bread and ham steaks to seniors’ complexes. It’s all more than Christopher and Jessica could have dreamed of when they sold their first pigs three years ago, but they’re thrilled that their strategies are resonating with the industry and the public. “It’s so important to build a brand around your farm because it creates good will,” Jessica says. “It’s important to our business model that we’re more than just a farm. We now have a reputation to uphold — we really want people to learn how to trust their farmers again.” Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. Elizabeth is a published cookbook author and a regular contributor to CBC Radio. 33

Winter Spirits by TOM FIRTH and LINDA GARSON

and iodine on the nose with undercurrents Port Askaig 8-Year Old Single As we enjoy the throes of of raisin and apple jelly. It’s wellMalt Scotch Whisky winter (hey, there are only structured and balanced, but certainly Islay, Scotland five more months of winter more in the camp(fire) of peated whiskies, Port Askaig is where you land on the some other rum-finished examples. island from Jura or the mainland, and to go!), what better time to than CSPC +808742 $82 the namesake for this select cask, warm up by the fire (or the limited release, 8-year old single malt. The nose draws you in with its morningspace heater) with a dram The Glenlivet Captain’s Reserve Single Malt Scotch Whisky after-the fire, delicate, and almost or two of warming spirits. Scotland sweet lemon aromas, while the palate This month, we have recommendations for fireside whiskies, but also a tequila if you are busy planning – or at least imagining – a beach getaway. Cheers!

Corralejo Reposado Tequila

Mexico Dreaming of a little beach vacation? I know I am…. Slightly smoky and saline on the nose with citrus and a touch of wood. Quite smooth on the palate with a feisty bite at the finish. Definitely a sipping tequila rather than a “slamming” one, doesn’t a little sun down south sound better than shoveling? CSPC +710390 about $60

Glenfiddich “Fire & Cane” Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Scotland The fourth edition of Glenfiddich’s experimental series of whiskies marrying non-peated and peated whisky and finished in rum casks. Plenty of smoke


Glenlivet’s new bottling is matured in both bourbon and sherry casks, but finished in cognac casks for half a year. Remarkably tropical with touches of cocoa, spice, and a long, mellow finish. I much preferred it neat, but even a splash of water would open it up further. Great value too. CSPC +804511 $70-75

Canadian Club “Chronicles” 41-Year Old Whisky

Canada The inaugural release of a new series of Canadian whiskies, Chronicles kicks off with a 41-year old bottling from Canadian Club. Very reasonably priced for such an old whisky, look for a nose with spice and fruit (a bit trail mix-like) with a smooth, graceful palate progression finishing with a spicy edge. Very well made, this was also named as Jim Murray’s Canadian Whisky of the Year for 2019. CSPC +1157151 $290-310

relaxes into fresher lemongrass flavours – I’m guessing appealing to both soonto-be-Islay-lovers and aficionados. CSPC +790467 45.8 percent ABV, 700 mL Around $68

Elements of Islay Peat Full Proof

Scotland A modern whisky in an appealing stubby bottle, Elements’ Peat Full Proof is a blend of two Islay malts, 80 percent Caol Ila and 20 percent Lagavulin. With no added colour, it’s very pale, and a lovely surprise for a peat-lover like me, to discover a no-holds-barred combination of damp earth, salt, citrus, and dark chocolate. At 59.3 percent ABV you’ll likely want to add a drop of water. CSPC +790466 500 mL $55









WEEKDAY EXPRESS LUNCH Two-course $20 | Three-course $25 WEDNESDAY PRIX FIXE DINNER Three-course $30 THURSDAY HALF PRICE WINE Select bottles of wine 50% off | Lunch and Dinner An opportunity to enjoy fine wines at an incredible price! See our website for upcoming Friday Night Flights and Valentine’s Day Dinner events. Reservations Recommended 403.268.8607 or OPEN TUESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY FOR LUNCH AND DINNER. OPEN SUNDAY FOR LUNCH.

It’s The Time For Chocolate And Spiced Beers by DAVID NUTTALL

As we head into the depths of winter, most of the people who don’t escape to the far south think of curling up to warm fires while enjoying hot beverages or wine. Very rarely does beer enter the picture. But hold on, isn’t hot cocoa and hot spiced rum just the functional equivalent of chocolate and spiced beers?

stouts, and some grains, hops, and yeasts can elicit spicy characteristics just by themselves. All this is true, but the use of spices in beer has been going on for thousands of years, so it’s not exactly a new trend. Before hops were recognized for their ability to provide bittering notes and preservative qualities to beer around 700-800 AD, gruit, an herb and spice mixture, had been used for centuries.

Even though the latter are typically enjoyed cold, they can provide an inner warmth that makes them popular even in other months. After all, chocolate lovers will never restrict their consumption to mere seasonality.

Although cacao was a main ingredient in what may pass for a beer in the PreColumbian Americas, chocolate didn’t make its appearance in modern brews until brought to Europe in the 1500s, and didn’t really get popular until craft breweries of the late 20th century began using it for seasonal beers, usually around Christmas, Valentine’s Day, and Easter.

Now admittedly, there are some beer purists who resist this need to add secondary ingredients to beer. After all, chocolate is a natural flavour evoked by the use of chocolate malt in porters and

Its acceptance has been so great that chocolate beer got its own category at the Great American Beer Festival in 2011, defecting from the Herb and Spice category where it formerly resided.


These days you will find many beers with “chocolate” in their name, but that doesn’t necessarily mean the brewer added any to the beer; sometimes they just let the malt do the talking. If added chocolate or cocoa is what you’re seeking, look for those named Double Chocolate. There can be a lot of flavour profiles in this style; expect anything from sweet to bitter and even white chocolate versions. Spiced beers often have more than one seasoning in them, and those aren’t always listed on the label. Sometimes, half the fun of drinking them is trying to guess what is used in the brewing, while with others the answer is in the name, such as beers with ginger, chili, vanilla, etc. While one spice may be highlighted, it doesn’t mean there aren’t others involved too. Much like chocolate beers, a few are brewed year-round, but most of them, with the exception of Belgian styles like wits, tend to show up in the fall beginning with the now ubiquitous pumpkin ales, and run through to the spring.

Below are a few beers that tend to be available regularly in many stores through the province.

Chocolate Beers

Rogue Chocolate Stout and Rogue Double Chocolate Stout, Oregon, USA

The chocolate stout is the lower alcohol version (5.8% vs. 8.9% ABV) with a slightly sweeter, milder cocoa flavour. The double has bittersweet Dutch chocolate and honey added for a more complex body. It’s for those who want the chocolate flavour minus the sweetness (without scrimping on the alcohol). Chocolate CSPC +721871, $11, 650 mL bottle, Double Chocolate CSPC +747144, $18, 750 mL bottle

Young’s Double Chocolate Stout, England

A sweet stout with added dark chocolate, chocolate essence, and sugars, that has a

touch of vanilla in the end. A chocolate bar in a glass. CSPC +749038, $6, 500 mL bottle

Samuel Smith Organic Chocolate Stout, England

Considering this brewery has been around since 1758, this is a relatively new release, having been on the market for only about 6 years. Made with 100 percent organic ingredients, which includes organic cane sugar and cocoa extract. Sweet and creamy. CSPC +760509, $8, 550 mL bottle

Spiced Beers

Crabbies Alcoholic Ginger Beer, Scotland

At one time, it was the only alcoholic ginger beer in Alberta. Thanks to the rise

of all things ginger, and especially the Moscow Mule cocktail, the spice has enjoyed somewhat of a rejuvenation. This is one of the sweeter ginger beers, with added citrus, so it tastes more like the non-alcoholic version than most. CSPC +738008, $6, 500 mL bottle. Also comes in raspberry-ginger flavour.

Unibroue, Quebec

As one of the first craft breweries in Canada, Unibroue is known for their interpretation of Belgian styles, commonly packaged in 750 mL corked bottles which usually retail for around $10-$12; slightly more for their specialty brews. Many of their almost two dozen varieties of beer have a combination of fruit, honey, and/or spices in their recipes.

Making The (Half) Case: by TOM FIRTH and LINDA GARSON

Sure, the holidays are past, and you might be wholeheartedly hitting the gym, or working the kinks out of your new exercise equipment, but hold on...there are still plenty of reasons to enjoy a little dessert wine, but dare we suggest matching them with some cheese rather than sweet desserts?

the grapes are partially dried to concentrate the sugars.

There are a few major styles of dessert wines; our wine picks range from fortified wines, where a neutral spirit

is added to halt fermentation and preserve some of the natural sweetness of the grapes, to passito wines where

Wherever your vinous sweet tooth takes you, we hope you enjoy the journey!

Blandy’s 10 Year Old Sercial Maderia Portugal

Quail’s Gate 2016 Fortified Vintage Foch, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Croft 430th Anniversary Reserve Ruby Port, Portugal

And botrytis afflicted grapes, where a fungus on the skins while still on the vine, allows water in the grape to escape, again concentrating the sugars.

I don’t drink a lot of foch (a hybrid grape), but I do love what Quail’s Gate does with their port-like fortified bottling. Herb, tar, and liquorice on the nose, with a good expression of black berries and smoky blueberry, the palate is very similar with generous sweetness and a softer structure than many ports. Try with wellaged cheddar or Roquefort cheese. CSPC +638148 375 mL About $27-30

Anytime a brand is celebrating an anniversary, like 430 years, it might be worth taking note. Established in 1588, the Croft port house has had its share of ups and downs, but now in the Taylor Fladgate stable, it’s in safe hands. Look for plush, ripe berry fruits with floral spices and bitter chocolate. Pair with goat cheese, blue cheese, or manchego - what else happened in 1588? The Spanish Armada set sail. CSPC +805252 $27-30

Villa Maria Reserve Noble Riesling Marlborough, New Zealand

Donnafugata Ben Ryé Passito Moscato Sicily, Italy

Maculan Dindarello Moscato 2015 Veneto, Italy

We only get a small amount of botrytisaffected wines from New Zealand, so you may not have had chance to discover this gem yet, but you’ll be overjoyed when you do. Villa Maria’s is elegant, with fresh and dried tropical fruit flavours, and a balanced acidity. Mouth-filling and unctuous, we’re looking for creamy blue cheese, salty aged gouda, or an Epoisses from France here. CSPC +790167 375 mL $26

Oh Ben Ryé, one taste – never forgotten. Sicily’s darling is made from lightly dried zibibbo (muscat of Alexandria) grapes, which are added to fresh juice, to produce an intense wine with the aroma and flavour of fresh apricots backed by a little fig, candied orange peel, and a hint of baking spices. Reach for spicy, buttery Pepper Jack, or a subtle Munster from Alsace here. CSPC +720773 375 mL Around $42

This Italian classic is made from ripe moscato fior d’arancio (orange muscat) grapes that dry for a month before fermentation with wild yeasts starts spontaneously. It’s delightfully honeyed, but not at all cloying as there’s a delicate orange acidity that keeps it fresh. It’s a wine where one sip very definitely leads to another… Enjoy with aged pecorino, a chunk of Parmigiano, or salty blue cheese. CSPC +708547 375 mL $23

Sercial is the driest style of madeira, and typically the lightest. Quite sherry-like on the palate with a dominantly nutty palate, but still zingy acids with lime fruits, and some caramel, burnt sugar characters. It might be tempting to think of this madeira as an after dinner wine, but this would be a great aperitif too. Try with a mild gorgonzola, really sharp cheddars, or a hard, salty cheese. CSPC +804669 $90-95


Wallet Friendly Top Values by TOM FIRTH

Post-holidays, our wallets may feel a little slimmer and our pants a little tighter, so you might be tempted to look for extra value wines for your new year-new diet plans.

Culinaire Magazine editors then determine if any of the Judges Selections are delivering exceptional value, and those wines earn a coveted Top Value award.

Below, we have a recap of the Top Value wines from our 2018 Alberta Beverage Awards. Some of the finest (and most talented) beverage professionals in the

province determine a Best in Class and Judges Selections in each category, over the course of several days of blind tasting.

Honoro Vera 2017 Rosado Jumilla, Spain CSPC +780358 $15-16

Bodega Renacer 2017 Punto Final Malbec Monster Vineyards 2016 Merlot Mendoza, Argentina Okanagan Valley, British Columbia CSPC +727233 $14-16 CSPC +873422 $17-19

Prospect 2017 Pinot Grigio Ogopogo’s Lair Ménage à Trois Gold 2015 Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia California, United States CPSC +307082 $14-16 CSPC +787927 $16-18

The complete results with all categories and judges can be found online at

La Mascota 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina CSPC +758058 $16-17

Remy Ferbras 2015 Ventoux Rhone Valley, France CSPC +775462 $14-15

Marques De Caceres 2017 Rueda Verdejo Undurraga 2016 “Sibaris” Gran Reserva Rueda, Spain Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, Chile CSPC +774466 $11-13 CSPC +761205 $14-17

Monster Vineyards 2017 Rosie Okanagan Valley, Canada CSPC +774741 $20-23

The Ned 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand CSPC +742653 $17-20

Take It To The Grave 2016 Shiraz Langhorne Creek/Barossa Valley, Australia CSPC +800223 $18-21 39

Etcetera New for 2019, is “Etcetera”, a page or two in every issue where we can introduce you to new food products, books, and other interesting items that we come across in our work (ie: eating, drinking, reading, and writing!) and can’t keep secret!

Dalla Terra Roasted Ajvar Hot

We first fell in love with Ajvar at Burwood Distillers a few months ago, where it appeared at lunch with the devilled eggs and the “Grilled” board with octopus and prawns. But we didn’t see it again until it recently landed on our desks. Happy days! This red pepper, tomato, and carrot spread finds its home in Croatia and Serbia, and can be used as a dip, on a dip, in a sandwich... 580 mL $4.50 at Italian Centre Shops

Cococo’s Filled Chocolate Hearts

There's no forgetting that Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. As it draws closer and you’re still debating what to buy for the love of your life, whether that’s a partner or parent, you can be assured of one gift that will always be well-received – Cococo’s solid milk or dark chocolate hearts, made with sustainable and fair trade cocoa and cocoa butter. Choose a small heart filled with 10 chocolates, $33; medium heart filled with 16 chocolates, $53; or go all out with the large heart filled with 45 chocolates, $92.

Uncomplicated: Taking the Stress Out of Home Cooking, Claire Tansey

Looking to simplify your life in 2019? Maybe you resolved to eat better or eat out less? Grouped into sections that make perfect sense for planning, Breakfast and Brunch, to Vegetarian, and Pasta, along with a brief section on cocktails, these recipes are easy to follow, flavourful, and as you might guess…. uncomplicated. Even dishes that could be a little daunting, such as Risotto, are presented with timesaving tricks. A good book to keep close by in the kitchen. $32 40

Flawless: Understanding Faults in Wine, Jamie Goode Lamenting your corked wine? Not sure what reductive or oxidative faults are? Don’t be mistaken in thinking this is a book only for professionals. It’s a perfect example of how an expert should be able to explain virtually anything about their realm to any layperson in an easy and engaging manner. From common wine faults to the more obscure, this is a great companion for any wine enthusiast wondering what the heck happened to their wine that normally tastes so much better than this... About $30

Enjoy this taste of the Prairies created by chef Jamie Harling.

It’s Soup Time! Enjoy a bowl of chef Jamie Harling’s Moroccan Spiced Red Lentil Soup at Italian Centre Shop Café and support Brown Baggin for Calgary’s Kids. The soup, made with hearty Alberta red lentils, tomato, red pepper, and redolent with the flavours of North Africa, will be available for purchase starting February 6 at Italian Centre Shop Café. The proceeds will benefit Brown Baggin for Calgary’s Kids which provides lunch for over 4,500 students in the Calgary area. The Alberta Culinary Tourism Alliance (ACTA) worked with the Alberta Pulse Growers (APG) to develop an Alberta chef’s recipe to take to market. Chef Jamie Harling’s soup was the successful recipe. APG and ACTA thank the Food Processing Development Centre in Leduc for their role in creating a shelf-stable, ready-toserve product, available starting February 6 at Italian Centre Shop Cafés.

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Open That Bottle by LINDA GARSON

Before privatization, Alberta had 209 liquor stores and about 2,000 products available, but now 25 years later, we have over 1,500 liquor stores, and about 25,000 products that any store can order. “Privatization has been an incredible success, and we want to ensure that the next 25 years are as successful as the 25 before this,” says Ivonne Martinez, president of the Alberta Liquor Store Association (ALSA). Martinez’s family immigrated to Canada from Santiago, Chile, in 1982 when she was 13 years old, and she started early on her career path encouraged by her Grande Cache school principal, becoming president of the student council in grade twelve. “He continued to encourage me to get involved in politics,” she says. “And I became enamoured with the legislature building. I didn’t know what people did there, but I wanted to be there.” After a degree in psychology, Martinez took a job in Ottawa, in foreign affairs, for a summer – and was hooked. She loved working in government, and in 1994, came back and worked at the legislature, speech writing, preparing news releases, and researching for the caucus. Although she really enjoyed her work, she wanted to be able to use her Spanish, and took a job with Nova (now Transcanada) who had just gone into partnership to build a pipeline from Argentina to Chile. For six years she worked on environmental government 42

advocacy, before returning to Canada for a position in Victoria as assistant to the Minister of Advanced Education. A spell overseas followed, but Martinez wanted to get back into government relations and it was opportune that in December 2000, ALSA was looking for an industry advocate. “And with my experience of working at all levels of government, and the fact that I like to drink wine, it just seemed like a perfect fit,” she says. “We come up with what we think is best for the industry as a whole, and work with the Alberta Gaming and Liquor Commission as partners to make the system even better than it is now.” Martinez also represents the industry on the Safer Bars Council, and is the representative on the Beverage Container Management Board, responsible for collection and recycling. 2012 saw the inaugural Alberta Liquor Industry Conference, an opportunity for all aspects of liquor in Alberta to come together. Martinez says she is very proud that it’s grown every year, and has been a huge success.

And what is Martinez’s special bottle? Her maternal ancestors come from Valencia, in Spain, but she’d never had opportunity to visit the country. Finally, last October, Martinez took a trip to Barcelona, then to Haro in the Rioja wine region, and to San Sebastian, where her great grandparents came from. “Valserrano was one of the wineries we visited there, and was just a family owned and run winery,” she explains. “They make wine the same way that they were doing back in the 1800s. Some of the same barrels are still being used. It was such an experience just to see how much effort and love they put into every bottle.” “They just took us in and it was lovely. The father, the son, and the daughter were there and they hosted us – they even made supper for us, and it was to die for,” she adds. “I felt like I wanted to live there, it felt like home in some ways. And so I ended up bringing this bottle of Reserva 1998 back with me; and to me it’s a representation of part of my heritage, and maybe even why I like wine so much. I’m hoping that when my family is all together here for Christmas, we might be able to pop it open.”













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