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Culinaire CALGARY’S FRESHEST FOOD & BEVERAGE MAGAZINE VOLUME 2/ISSUE 1 MAY 2013

A CALGARY LOVE STORY:

The people, the places, & the drinks to go with it

MEAT

ALSO: BBQ Reds Hoppy Beers Bourbon The Cocktails culinairemagazine.ca

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2 • May 2013


Features 16

Labours of Love Taking ‘grow-your-own’ to a completely different level, Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts have been raising their own elk and bison for sixteen years. By Heather Kingston

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Riding High: Cowboy of the Americas 54 It’s a different kind of cowboy culture at Gaucho Brazilian BBQ, but one that Calgarians can certainly relate to – meat! By Cory Knibutat

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Simplicity: The New Classic Executive Chef Andrew Keen of Vintage Chophouse sees the return of classic dishes as the latest trend in cooking. By Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

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The Hoppiest Beers on Earth American IPAs have been the largest selling beer style in North America for over ten years, now Canada is taking note. By David Nuttall and Meaghan O’Brien

Second Label Wines - First Rate Values By no means second fiddle, second label wines can offer an alternative to big name world-class wines at a fraction of the price. By Steve Goldsworthy

From Bardstown and Back Again It may be named in honour of the French Royal Family, but Bourbon is an all- American spirit. By Andrew Ferguson

COVER PHOTOGRAPH

Front cover photograph by Ingrid Kuenzel, with thanks to Chef Andrew Keen at Vintage Chophouse for his help, patience and superb selection of steak to for us to choose from.

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29 64

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18

16

Contents 8

Salutes And Shout Outs

10 Four Event Previews

By David Nuttall

12 Ask Culinaire

By Executive Chef JP Pedhirney

13 Primal Cravings

By Laurie Fuhr

14 Meaty Book Reviews

By Karen Miller

VOLUME 2/ISSUE #1 MAY 2013

22 An Inspector Calls

44 The Carnivore’s Quaff

By Jeff Collins

45 Open That Bottle

By Leonard Brown

46 Soup Kitchen

By Brenda Holder

29 Benefits of Branded Beef

By Heather Hartmann

38 Fat Of The Land

By Fred Malley, CCC

By Vincci Tsui, RD

By Gabriel Hall

40 Meatballs: On A Roll

By Jocelyn Burgener

42 Step By Step: Gourmet Burgers

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By Chef Thierry Meret

52 White Wine With Red Meat?

By Heather Kingston

By Tom Firth

32 The Good, the Bad, and the 56 Bring On The Meat Ugly of Red Meat

By Linda Garson

28 Meat In The Wild

18 Chefs Tips (and Tricks!)

By BJ Oudman

27 Container Gardening

15 The Humble Spud By Silvia Pikal

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56

By Natalie Findlay

58 Menu Gems 64 American Spirit

By Gabriel Hall


if you see kay wicked italian red wine

Find Kay in the Italian section of an Alberta liquor store near you culinairemagazine.ca

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Letter From The Editor

It’s our birthday! We now have ten issues of Culinaire under our belt (and lots of very tasty food, wine, beer, spirits and cocktails too, all in the interests of research for you of course!). It’s hard to believe that we’re one year old this month, welcome to the first issue of Volume 2, our second year. I hope you’ve been able to see a progression and improvements over the time you’ve been reading the magazine. We been trying hard to continually streamline and better the appearance without changing the core of Culinaire, our content. Many thanks to all of you for your compliments and kind words on our articles, we know we’ve hit the right

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spot when we hear your feedback. We also know that people are talking very positively about us and we’ve created quite a buzz on the food and beverage scene in Calgary.

We know we’ve been hard to find sometimes as Culinaire is snapped up so quickly when it hits the stores! You can still subscribe too, to be sure of receiving your copy, for just the cost of the postage.

It’s an exciting start to our second year, you’ll notice a change in layout to be crisper and more modern, and I welcome on board new members to our team. I’m delighted to introduce you to our two new contributing editors, both experts in their fields and well-respected journalists in Calgary and beyond. Meet Tom Firth our Drinks Editor and Dan Clapson our Food Editor; they’d also like to hear from you to know what you like and what you’d like to see in Culinaire.

May is where we started and we’re a Calgary publication, so the theme is meat again this issue. We’ve lots of recipes and drinks pairings with meat dishes, and we hear from the people who raise our meat and create our meat dishes in Calgary with their advice, hints and tips. Thanks so much to all of you for your support, your feedback and your friendship. We truly appreciate your encouragement, your comments and opinions that help us to continue to grow and improve. Thanks too to our advertisers and our contributors, without either of which we could not exist. Please show them your gratitude too.

To celebrate our anniversary, we’re widening our reach to be available in more locations. Visit culinairemagazine. ca to find an outlet near you (and while you’re there, don’t forget to enter our competitions to win fabulous prizes!).

Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief linda@culinairemagazine.ca

10 day Luxury Wine And Culinary Tour Of Tuscany

Friday August 16th - Tuesday August 27th 2013 Experience the beauty of Italy, and discover the outstanding wine and food specialities of Tuscany in this luxury tour.

In today ’s busy world, you may not get a chance to pick up every issue of Culinaire. To ensure your copy, go to culinairemagazine.ca to have the next ten issues delivered right to your door. CALGARY’S FRESHEST FOOD & BEVERAGE MAGAZINE

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Culinaire

Editor-in-Chief/ Publisher: Linda Garson Contributing Drinks Editor: Tom Firth

cowtownwine@gmail.com

Contributing Food Editor: Dan Clapson food@culinairemagazine.ca

Sales Manager: Keiron Gallagher 403-975-7177 keirongallagher@gmail.com

Advertising: Corinne Wilkinson 403-471-2101 corinne@culinairemagazine.ca

Design: Emily Vance Contributors: Leonard Brown Jocelyn Burgener Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Jeff Collins Andrew Ferguson Natalie Findlay Laurie Fuhr Steve Goldsworthy Gabriel Hall Heather Hartmann Brenda Holder Cory Knibutat Ingrid Kuenzel Fred Malley Karen Miller David Nuttall Meaghan O’Brien BJ Oudman JP Pedhirney Silvia Pikal Vincci Tsui

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804 -3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403-870-9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca www.culinairemagazine.ca www.facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine Twitter: @culinairemag For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our Contributors

< STEVE GOLDSWORTHY Steve Goldsworthy is a freelance writer, author and screenwriter, and filmmaker. He has published more than 40 non-fiction children’s books, and has worked on numerous film and television projects. Steve believes the only way to learn about wine is to taste it. He has spent 17 years “learning” about wine while running a little shop called Britannia Wine Merchants. When he is not writing for Hollywood or 9-12 year olds, he is spending time with his two favourite story editors, his boys, and his favourite children’s author, his wife Kaite.

< EXECUTIVE CHEF JP PEDHIRNEY Chef JP Pedhirney is a Red Seal Certified Chef from the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology. He has trained in multiple cities, including New York and Chicago. JP led the kitchen at Rouge Restaurant as Chef de Cuisine and is now the Executive Chef of Muse Restaurant in Kensington. Chef Pedhirney is known for his outstanding creative and contemporary cuisine. His food is best experienced through his five or eight course tasting menu at Muse Restaurant, currently at third place in vacay.ca’s Top 50 Restaurants in Canada.

TEQUILA

IT FLOWS IN OUR VEINS

< CORY KNIBUTAT A journalism graduate, Cory has had a life-long love affair with food. He blames his mother for teaching him how to make scrambled eggs when he needed a stool to look over the stove. Having worked in restaurants since the age of 14, Cory translated his passion for food into his journalistic ambitions, not necessarily critiquing food but meeting the people who make it and finding their inspiration. He believes that everybody has a story to tell and there’s always something tasty to eat if you know where to look.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www. culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

UPCOMING EVENTS Cinco de Mayo – May 5th Lilac Festival – May 26th

BRUNCH | LUNCH | DINNER | LATE NIGHT SELECTION OF 120 PREMIUM TEQUILAS AND GROWING open daily at 11am...until late... 587.353.2656 | anejo.ca #2,2116 – 4th Street SW Calgary, AB

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Salutes... Papa Chocolat takes home Silver!

Quails’ Gate wines among the best in the world!

At the prestigious Academy of Chocolate Awards, Calgary’s own master chocolatier Papa Chocolat, Bernard Callebaut, has been awarded a silver medal for his ‘Winston’ chocolate. The award-winning ‘Winston’ features a dried grape marinated in fine single malt whisky, wrapped in a semi-sweet ganache and piped into a semi-sweet shell, using mostly organic ingredients above and beyond Fair Trade Standards.

Congratulations to Quails’ Gate Winery, whose wines have earned high honours at France’s prestigious Chardonnay du Monde 2013. The 2010 Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay was awarded a Gold Medal, and the 2011 Quails’ Gate Chardonnay received Silver. Nearly 900 wines from 42 countries were judged by more than 300 experts at this year’s competition, half of whom were from outside France. 

One of the most respected leaders of the modern world, Winston Churchill was also a connoisseur of fine whisky. “He was known to have a glass of Scotch with his breakfast daily,” says Papa. “He is famed for his brilliance and stoicism in the face of adversity—a quality I have always admired.”

Jelly on top! Calgary’s own Jelly Modern Doughnuts are the first Canadians to win “Donut Showdown” on Food Network Canada’s new competition series. A $10,000 prize was awarded to pastry chef Grayson Shermon and Jelly co-owner Rosanne Tripathy. It was a show-stopping “Bollywood meets Hollywood” version of their famous Salted Caramel that did the trick, featuring chili and cumin dusted popcorn and cashews, topped with deep fried carrot curls. The prize will help Jelly Modern Doughnut’s soon to be open Toronto location, but “The real prize was to represent the dynamic culinary culture of Calgary,” says Shermon. “The city is on fire when it comes to great, food, drink and culture.”

8 • May 2013

JoieFarm Cleans Up! Wow! At the 2013 Great Northwest Wine Competition against almost exclusively Washington and Oregon competition, JoieFarm, of Naramata in the Okanagan, were awarded thirteen medals. This haul included a DoubleGold medal (unanimous Gold) for the 2011 Gamay (release September 2013), one of five finalists for best overall wine

in show. Three other Gold medals were awarded to their 2012 A Noble Blend, 2012 Riesling and 2011 Pinot Noir, as well as a further five silver medals and four bronze.

Triumph for Highland Park 25 year old Congratulations too to Highland Park! Their 25 year old whisky was awarded the first ever 100-point score, along with the Chairman’s Trophy for Best of Category, by judges at Ultimate Beverage Challenge’s Ultimate Spirits Challenge in New York. Not satisfied with making history, Highland Park went on to achieve four more trophies with ‘Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation’ for their 30 year old (97 points); 12 year old (96 points); 18 year old (95 points) and 15 year old (95 points).  More than 70 companies from 30 countries around the world entered the Ultimate Spirits Challenge.  


…and Shout Outs A welcome addition to the Inglewood dining scene has just opened it’s doors at 1211 9 Avenue SE, next door to Kane’s. Arch Persian Lounge is a family owned restaurant offering delicious traditional Persian fare in a spotless setting, with kind and attentive service. We loved our appetizers of home-made spicy vegetable pickles; Kashk-O-Bademjan – a chunky sautéed eggplant, onion and garlic spread complete with in-house clay oven baked Lavash, and freshly made Falafel. The stews are pure comfort food, we enjoyed a rich pomegranate and chicken stew, and a yellow split pea stew with lamb chops that almost had us licking the plate, accompanied by perfect saffron rice. Save room for dessert as you might regret missing the home-made saffron ice cream with rosewater and pistachios, washed down with their special tea.

Big Rock Brewery has released a fifteen can “Swinger Pack” in time for the warmer weather, and only available till September.

kensingtonriversideinn.com 403.228.4442

yellowdoorbistro.ca 403.206.9585

Two new beers are included alongside favourites SAAZ Republic Pliz, IPA and Grasshopper – Paradox Dark Light Ale, a full-flavoured dark craft ale with the easy drinking and thirst quenching nature of a light beer; and Purple Gas, a fruit beer merging wheat ale with tart Saskatoon berries and finished with a touch of blue agave nectar. We’ll all be swinging this summer!

Calgary Co-op’s new Beer Traveler Program encourages you to explore the world of beer without leaving your home. Designed like a twist-off cap beer coaster, it spirals open to view pages Europe, Canada, USA and Beers of the World. There’s over 400 beers, ales and draughts from around the world to choose from, and until November 23, you’ll receive a $5 discount for completing a page. When it’s fully stamped you’ll be entered for a chance to win a trip to a well-known beer destination, valued at $5,000.

hotelarts.ca 403.206.9565

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Previews

By DAVID NUTTALL

May 10-11, 2013 - Banff Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival, Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel and Resort and other locations around Banff Friday & Saturday: 7:00-10:00 p.m. Saturday Afternoon: 2:00-5:00 p.m.

May 8, 2013 - AGCcooks 2013 Culinary Competition Art Gallery of Calgary, 117 8 Ave. S.W. Tickets: $300 5:30 p.m.: Cocktails 6:45 p.m.: Chef Challenge The AGC’s Eleventh Annual AGCcooks fundraiser has become an annual delight celebrating the art of cuisine and raising funds for The AGCs renowned public and education (Kindergarten – Grade 12) programming. Six of Calgary’s elite chefs are competing to create a four-course meal featuring a secret ingredient selected by restaurant critic and local food writer John Gilchrist, and disclosed to them only days before the event. Guests will then dine on one of the exceptional meals, paired with fine wine expertly chosen by each restaurant’s sommelier. They will then have the chance to rate all four courses based on taste, creativity and presentation. In addition to these votes, a panel of local foodies, media and celebrity guest judges will award coveted prizes. www. artgallerycalgary.org/fundraisers/ agccooks

10 • May 2013

Online tickets Friday Evening, Saturday Afternoon: $27, Saturday Evening: $31 At the Door: Friday Evening, Saturday Afternoon: $32, Saturday Evening: $36 (subject to availability) Sampling coupons are $0.50 and are purchased at the Festival. Samples range from 1 to 20 or more coupons. Wine and food lovers are invited to escape to Banff for a blissful weekend indulging in delectable cuisine from Banff’s most popular restaurants. The main event is held in The Grand Tasting Hall at the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel and Resort. You’ll find a wide selection of local and international wines, premium spirits, single malt and blended scotches, specialty liqueurs, and import and micro-brewed beers, and a chance to interact with experts while savouring delectable cuisine from Banff’s most popular restaurants. In addition to this, wine and food themed events will be held at Banff hotels and restaurants throughout the weekend. See www. rockymountainwine.com/banff.html for details.

May 26, 2013 - 4th Street Lilac Festival 4th St. S.W. from 12 Ave. to 25 Ave. 10:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m. The free, one day, 24th Annual 4th Street Lilac Festival kicks off with a parade at 10:00 a.m. that travels along 4th Street from 25th Avenue to 13th Avenue. This lead festival of Calgary’s vibrant festival season invites thousands of attendees to come out and enjoy the unique and pedestrian-friendly 4th Street S.W. There will be activity for all ages, with an array of musical talent, over 500 vendors, expanded beer gardens, quality entertainment and some perfect


people watching. Six stages host over 30 performances throughout the day, including the “Underage Stage”, which promotes Alberta’s youth in support of their bright future in music. New in 2013 is “Food Truck Lane”, which will give people a chance to see what the new food craze in Calgary is all about. www.4streetcalgary.com/Lilac-Festival

May 30-June 2, 2013 – 9th Annual Wine Summit Post Hotel & Spa, Lake Louise, Alberta 2013 Room Package: $3125 {double/ person} Suite Package: $3425 {double/ person}

Thursday, May 30 Afternoon checkin, Welcome Dinner & Western Party

Friday, May 31 Breakfast, Morning

tastings-featuring Felton Road Wines and Fuligni Viticultori Lunch, Afternoon tasting- Paul Hobbs, Taylor Fladgate – Port and Food Pairing Dinner- A Taste of the Summit

Saturday, June 1 Breakfast, Morning

tastings -Les 5: Château Branaire-Ducru, Château Canon La Gaffelière, Château Gazin, Château Smith Haut Lafitte Lunch, Afternoon tasting-featuring Louis Roederer Champagne , Gala Dinner & Dance. Silent Auction to Benefit Kids Cancer Care Foundation of Alberta

fla v our ful loc al

Sunday, June 2 Breakfast, Morning Departure

Super Tasting Thursday, May 30 10:00 a.m. Vintage 2003 Bordeaux – 10 Years Later $485/person includes lunch. A rare opportunity to explore Bordeaux’s 2003 vintage through some of the region’s most renowned producers!

Meet some of the world’s greatest winemakers and estate owners, and relax and enjoy a rare experience with people who love wine, food and good company. Anthony Gismondi will be back as moderator, and will lend his expertise at all the wine tasting seminars. The Wine Summit Lake Louise 2013 is for everyone, from enthusiastic beginners to ardent collectors. A silent auction will be held for the Kid’s Cancer Care Foundation of Alberta (KCCFA). www.winesummitlakelouise.com

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209-10th St NW 403-283-8988

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G e t t h e i n s i d e ‘ s p o o n’ o n d e a l s . Fo l l o w u s o n Tw i t t e r @ v e r o b i s t r o a n d F a c e b o o k

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Ask Culinaire: The Importance of Resting Meat

By CHEF JP PEDHIRNEY

I’ve heard that meats need to be rested after cooking. Is this true and why? This is indeed true! For the best results, whether it’s steak, roast beef or leg of lamb, meats need to be rested after they are cooked. The reason for this is two key factors: first and most importantly, resting meat retains it’s juices, so when you cut into your cooked steak or roast, you want all that intended moisture to stay within the meat for a succulent juicy flavour. Secondly, you want to consider what we call in the kitchen, “carry over cooking” or residual heat. Just because your protein is off the grill or out of the oven doesn’t mean the cooking process has stopped. Meat is muscle and surprisingly, muscle tissue contains approximately 75% water. As soon as you begin to cook a piece of meat, the muscle fibres in the meat begin to contract, forcing water out of its cells. When you rest the meat, the fibres relax, allowing the juices to redistribute. Therefore, when you cook a steak, do not cut into it immediately after it has been cooked. This will only release the agitated juices and all you’ll be left with is juice on your plate, instead of a nice juicy steak. Use a thermometer to check meat doneness. Now, as your meat is resting, residual heat or “carry over cooking” is going to continue the cooking process, raising the internal temperature by about 5º C. So you want to pull your meat off the heat before its desired doneness to 12 • May 2013

account for this temperature change. This is where your thermometer comes into play. For a steak or roast to be cooked on the more medium-rare side, take your steak off at an internal temperature of about 50º C. For medium 55º, and 60º for well-done. The more you practice this process, the more you will begin to understand how important resting meat is. The last part before you become a master in the art of protein cookery, is how long you rest your meat for. Size matters! The larger the piece of meat, the longer you want to rest it. Steak, for instance, is relatively small, so a five minute rest should be plenty of time. Roast beef or leg of lamb on the other hand is larger, so it will need at least a twenty minute snooze before showtime. Once your meat is rested, a quick one or two minute reheat in the oven and you’re ready to serve. Your patience will pay off with a juicy, flavourful, perfectly cooked piece of meat that will impress any guest at your dinner table. Chef JP Pedhirney is a Red Seal Certified Chef. He led the kitchen at Rouge Restaurant as Chef de Cuisine and is now the Executive Chef of Muse Restaurant in Kensington If you have a question regarding anything related to dining, beverages, events, cooking and ingredients, our experts are here with answers. Visit us at culinairemagazine.ca, click on “Contact Us” and ask away! We hope to hear from you soon!


Primal Cravings:

Succumb To Your Inner Carnivore At Carne By LAURIE FUHR

Some days, you just want a little more protein in your diet. When stress, lack of sleep, or hard work run you down, or even when you’ve enjoyed yourself a little too much the night before, nothing revives a carnivore faster than sinking their teeth into a meaty treat.

Since opening on Canada Day of last year, Carne has quickly become a destination for everyone looking to satisfy their midday hunger. Solidly located just off of Stephen Ave and 1st Street SE, in Olympic Plaza, the innovative grub hub serves to long lines of corporate 9-5ers, leisurely street mall strollers, and ravenous passers-by alike. Carne is, perhaps, best described as gourmet ‘street meat’. Greasy midnight tubesteaks need not apply here. It is the Teatro Group that’s responsible for upping the Stampede fare ante via this downtown togo hotspot. “It’s a food style and type we all love, but not one really appropriate for the Teatro menu,” Devin Morrison, Operations Manager of Teatro explains, “So we thought it would be fun to have an outlet for [this particular] food type.”

When you get bored of the standard rodeo beef on a bun, Carne has options. Try the ‘Roast Porchetta’, a half-pound of heritage Berkshire pork belly rubbed with garlic and parsley served with a fresh slaw on ciabatta. If it sounds delicious, you’re not alone, as the ‘Roast Porchetta’ is Carne’s most popular menu item. “[The dish] is inspired by the Porchetta stands that populate the roadsides and markets of central Italy,” says Morrison. “There it’s just porchetta, bread and coarse salt – we added a little apple and fennel slaw to brighten it up.” The downtown food stand also reworks an array of classic dishes for carnivorous appetites like adding their own specially seasoned ground Alberta beef to Chile Con Carne and using smoked bacon to transform mac ‘n cheese into the

ultimate Bacon Mac. All menu offerings are lovingly created by John Michael MacNeil, Executive Chef for Teatro Restaurant Group, prepared daily in the Teatro kitchen and finished fresh to order at Carne. Once lunch has been served, don’t walk too far away from the stand to consume your savoury meal-on-the-go. End things on a sweet note with their torched to order Maple-Bacon Crème Brulee, which, just goes to show you that this meat-centric stand can even sneak meat into one hell of a dessert. Carne is open for business from late April to October, Monday to Friday, 11:00 am to 3:00 pm. View their full menu online at carnecalgary.com or catch up with them on twitter: @CarneCalgary. Photograph courtesy of Patricia Lau culinairemagazine.ca

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Book Reviews

By KAREN MILLER

Carnivore Michael Symon Clarkson Potter Publishers 2012. $41 As a recently added Iron Chef, Symon is outgoing and confident. He is known for his burger restaurants and award-winning “Fat Doug Burger” (a pastrami topped burger). Symon, however, lives up to the hype. He claims whether meat plays a starring role or just back up, it elevates the dish. He mantra is quality over quantity - ‘eat “less” just “better”! The photographs in the book are pretty much unadorned by sides. There is a great deal of information on how to choose meat, with cooking techniques for all meats interspersed. My favourite tip regarding meat is repeated often, “take out meat and let it come to room temperature before using”. There is even a small section of recipes for sides. Symon truly understands textures and flavours, and is careful to complement them at all times. He goes for the inherent richness, fattiness and intensity of meats at all times. Symon says this book is for meat lovers - and it is!

The Great Meat Cookbook Bruce Aidells Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing 2012 $46.95 Aidells has been in the meat business for decades and writes with knowledge and experience. Acknowledging meat cookery has changed and a host of new terms such as “heirloom breeds”, he has produced a very comprehensive reference tool. It is not for those who need a quick fix thirty minutes before dinner is to be served. It is, however, a great read for those who want details on every aspect of buying, storing, freezing and of course, cooking meat. He covers all meats, deciphering labels, and the benefits of endorsing “Community Supported Agriculture”. There are numerous recipes for each meat, including marinades, rubs, pastes, and chutney. Each recipe has a subtitle indicating its occasion, such as “fit for company”, “in a hurry”, “cheap eats”, “great leftovers”, “family meal” and “fit for a crowd”. Grab a glass of wine and enjoy the wealth of information in this book. Following Aidell’s recipes, you can recreate the steakhouse experience at home. Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade, giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook. She has taught many styles of cooking classes. 14 • May 2013

Getting to know you and your preferences… As we enter our second year, we want to know more about our readers and what topics and features you’d like to see in Culinaire magazine, so we’d be very grateful if you would fill in our short survey on our website at culinairemagazine.ca to tell us more about yourself. It won’t take more than a few minutes and we certainly won’t be letting anyone else share this information, it’s purely for us to be able to create relevant articles on subjects you want to read about – and we’re offering superb prize draws for all those who let us have their feedback! This month we have a magnum – yes that’s right – a 1.5 L bottle of Baron Ricasoli Chianti Classico worth $125 for the lucky winner! According to Family Business, the leading American magazine that lists the world classification of family businesses, Barone Ricasoli is the fourth longest-lived company in the world in the same place and the second in the wine sector. Barone Ricasoli is also the oldest winery in Italy, creating the original recipe for Chianti in 1872, which is still used to this day! All entries will be entered each month for a chance to win other amazing prizes too! We look forward to hearing from you!


The Humble Spud Story and photography by SILVIA PIKAL

The Humble Spud is dedicated to showcasing the potato in all its glory. Many times the potato has served as the main feature of the dish. Previous recipes for spicy potato curry, rösti and miso potato soup come to mind. Here, the potato creates a dish that is enormously satisfying on its own. No meat is needed to round it out when various spices, vegetables and legumes complement the potatoes. However, when served with meat, the ‘Humble Spud’ often takes a back seat to the main attraction. Steak and mashed potatoes is a combination beloved amongst many Albertans, but most won’t skip the steak for more mashed potatoes. This basic recipe for superb mashed potatoes can be served with steak, roast lamb, pork chops or eggplant curry. They can also be dressed up with different gourmet options to please the palate as much as the meat. Growing up, Silvia’s house was filled with the aromas of freshly baked bread and savoury stews, and she developed an infectious love for food. Her healthy vegetarian recipe blog is at www.like-mother-like-daughter.com

Superb Mashed Potatoes Serves 4-6

4 large potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 1/2 Tsp (4 g) salt 3 Tbs (42 g) butter 1/2 cup (125 mL) heavy cream Truffle oil to taste Pepper to taste

1. Wash, peel and cut the potatoes into small pieces. Place the potatoes in a large pot and cover with salted water.

Gourmet options: Garlic Mashed Potatoes 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil 4 garlic cloves, chopped Handful of fresh parsley, chopped

1.

Saute the garlic in olive oil until it starts to brown, for about 5 minutes.

2. Add garlic to mashed potatoes after you have

drained the water. Mash into potatoes with butter until smooth. Parmesan & Truffle Oil Mashed Potatoes 1/2 cup (60 g) Parmesan cheese, grated White or black truffle oil to taste

1. After mashing the butter into the potatoes, fold in Parmesan and mix well.

2. Stir in the truffle oil to taste, it can be quite strong.

Mashed Potatoes with Caramelized Onions 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 large onion, halved, thinly sliced 2 Tbs (30 mL) balsamic vinegar

2. Bring water to a boil. Reduce heat and cook for about 15 to 20 minutes or until 1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. tender. Poke potatoes with a fork to ensure they are done. 3. Do not drain the water completely. Leave some salted water at the bottom of

the pot. Add the butter and mash until smooth, than add the heavy cream and mix well.

Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 15 minutes.

2. Stir in the vinegar and cook one minute longer. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Stir in the truffle oil. Add truffle oil sparingly as the flavour can be quite strong. 3. When your mashed potatoes are ready to serve, top with caramelized onions. 5. Season with pepper. culinairemagazine.ca

• 15


Labours Of Love: Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts By HEATHER KINGSTON

Canadian Rocky Mountain Ranch, encompassing over 500 acres of picturesque foothills southwest of Calgary, has been sustainably raising bison and elk for their resorts and some of this city’s top restaurants, since 1997. They supply all CRMR’s properties, most notably Cilantro on 17th Avenue, Divino on Stephen Avenue and The Ranche in Fish Creek Park, with the highest-quality meat a restaurant could hope for.

Hungry guests can enjoy game reimagined into familiar dishes such as ‘Pulled Elk with Blueberry Ancho Pesto on Flatbread’ or ’Elk and Bison Meatloaf with Cherry Aioli’ at Cilantro, and a ‘Bison Tartare served with Chevre and a Black Pepper Vinaigrette’ at Divino. The livestock is raised under strict quality control guidelines and guests staying at one of CRMR’s resorts or dining at their restaurants can rest easy, knowing the animals are treated humanly, living lives better than any wild animal. Long before game such as venison, elk and bison became more commonly found on menus in Calgary restaurants, the idea of Rocky Mountain Cuisine

started to take shape in CRMR’s resorts and retreats. Dishes featuring wild game popped up on menus at Emerald Lake Lodge, Deer Lodge and Buffalo Mountain Lodge and eventually accounted for nearly half of the meals served at Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts. All businesses under the CRMR umbrella are a labour of love for the founders Pat and Connie O’Connor, who purchased the first piece of their empire, Emerald Lake Lodge, in 1979, though the lodge wasn’t quite ready for the public at that time. Pat, with a background in business, and Connie in teaching, worked for nine years to upgrade Emerald Lake Lodge, located just outside of Field, British Columbia,

16 • May 2013


215 km from Calgary in Yoho National Park, from a summer retreat into a year-round facility. Insulating the cabins and main lodge, and heating the buildings were just a few of the tasks required. “Every weekend we piled the children in the vehicle and headed to the lodge,” Connie said. The second and third pieces were added to the CRMR empire in 1982, with the acquisition of Deer Lodge, located in Lake Louise, and Banff’s Mountainview Village, now Buffalo Mountain Lodge, in 1983. “It too (Deer Lodge) was a summer only resort,” Connie said. “We wanted to have it open year-round, so we renovated it starting in the fall of 1984 and re-opened the following February.” The hand-hewn, timber designed Deer Lodge is a rustic, historically important building the O’Connors fell in love with. They created a cozy, family friendly experience where people can ski in the winter and enjoy the mountain summer. “You’ll see people writing in their journals and reading the paper,” Connie said. “It’s peaceful, quiet and yet they’re five minutes from the lake.” “This is what we’ve aspired to,” she added. “We avoid being pretentious, but we want to provide an intimate, luxury experience.” When it came time to look at how they were servicing and supplying all the properties, they adopted a vertical integration approach. This style of management would help establish quality control for their many properties, and lend beautifully to their approach to cuisine. It’s still amazing to be able to run so many businesses at once however, and the dedication was rooted in a commitment to each other, and working with great people along the way. “Pat and I were able to work together,” Connie said. “Pat reads plans very well and I have the eye for décor and design. I paced myself with part time involvement until the children were all in school.” “We loved what we were doing.” “We have excellent staff that we trust, who have been with us for a very long period of time,” Connie added. “We give them freedom to grow and place people in wellmatched situations. The person who loves the outdoors will be suited to Emerald Lake, where as the urban dweller would be best suited to a Calgary opportunity.” The CRMR team has succeeded in turning The Ranche in Fish Creek Park into a destination restaurant that also hosts many weddings and corporate events. Most recently, Bar C has been added as to CRMR’s family of restaurants, offering a casual atmosphere to either unwind after a long day, or to socialize with friends.

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Summer and BBQ are made for each other. We will all be firing up the grill for casual, and sometimes elegant, meals on the deck or patio for family and friends. Purists will only use a charcoal grill, but many of us succumb to time and ease, using gas and propane grills with a smoke box. One approach many miss out on is using the BBQ to roast meats. You get a great crust from the seasonings cooking with the fat cover, and subtle wood flavours from the charcoal.

Chefsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Tips (and Tricks!) By FRED MALLEY, CCC

18 â&#x20AC;˘ May 2013


BBQs generally have metal rod grates and if you are in the market for a new one, look for wide bars. You get more surface area in contact with the meat to impart the caramelization we enjoy. It is best to turn meats over several times while grilling; the meat cooks more evenly and you can move the meat around to sear more surface area. While grill marks are attractive, you lose a lot of flavour potential. Dual heat controls are a nice option because you can start thick cuts on the hot side and move them over to finish cooking at moderate heat. Or move the meat up to the top rack to finish cooking, with the heat turned down (recommended for the

lamb rack). Clean the grates regularly, especially if you baste with sweet BBQ sauces; it chars, impedes caramelization and imparts bitter flavours and unsightly black specks. There are many excellent seasoning mixes for BBQ on the market. I always look for blends with lower salt content as you get more flavouring spices. Don’t be afraid to customize your seasoning salt with additional spices and herbs. Adding smoked paprika imparts a pleasant smoky character. Add cumin, coriander and cayenne for a southwest influence. Dry mustard is a great addition, or try some wasabi powder.

BBQ meats are excellent candidates for marinating to impart flavour and enhance tenderness. Lemon juice, white wine, garlic and oregano add a Mediterranean touch or use a tropical fruit juice blend with some soy, garlic and ginger to jazz up a pork cut. The main thing is to be adventurous. We asked some local golf and country club chefs for tips on selecting and cooking meats on the barbie. Fred currently validates Individual Learning Modules for Alberta Apprenticeship, for the trade of Cook. Chair of the Canadian Culinary Institute for five years, Fred actively mentors and examines chefs across Canada.

Resi Mendoza, Pinebrook Golf and Country Club Chef Mendoza is the unassuming chef of Pinebrook Golf and Country Club, and a familiar face over the years. His career includes stints with the Westin, International and Holiday Inn Downtown hotels, plus La Caille and Heritage Pointe. He is a past Culinary Team Canada member and now a coach.

Chef’s Tip Filipino BBQ Marinade for 1 Kg pork butt: Cut the meat into strips 0.75 cm thick, 2.5 cm wide and 3.25 cm long (1/2 x 1 x 1 ½ inches), and leave the fat on. 1/2 cup (125 mL) Soy sauce 1 ½ Tbs (20 g) Garlic, chopped 1/2 cup (75 g) Onion, finely chopped 1 Lemon, juiced 65 mL lemon/lime soda 1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) ground black pepper 2 ½ Tbs (45 g) Brown sugar 1/2 cup (125 mL) Banana sauce (Filipino ketchup at T&T)

Mendoza’s Filipino heritage comes through in his BBQ must do’s. His first preference is for white meats; you must marinate them overnight. Garlic rules, fresh, of course, and lots of it. He recommends making the marinade below with lemon/lime soda, which tenderizes the meat. He got a new rotisserie over winter renovations and will use his special spice blend for the beef; he sneaks in some mesquite salt, but I didn’t tell you.

1. Mix all ingredients well and marinade meat for one to two days. 2. Skewer meat and grill on BBQ. culinairemagazine.ca

• 19

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• 19


Guy Leggatt, Siraia Restaurant, Sirocco Golf Club Hailing from Vancouver’s Il Giardino, Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill and Lumiere, Chef Leggatt touched down in Calgary at Earl’s Willow Park. Very much a classical chef, he detests fusion confusion. Guy believes in simplicity and is a purist, whose favourite ingredient is fruity extra virgin olive oil. Meat-wise he prefers NY Steak and if you have a rotisserie attachment, porchetta. Lamb also scores high on his likes. Guy is sharing a classic recipe for rack of lamb slathered with Dijon mustard. While he suggests a high cooking temperature, which means the lid is down and the burner on medium high; you can use a lower temperature and allow more time for the meat to cook.

Chef’s Tip Chef Leggatt’s advice for successful grilling is four-fold. Look for good marbling and some fat when purchasing meat. (AAA beef ensures reasonable marbling and you can source prime grade at some independent butchers. Look for intramuscular white fat streaks in pork loin for a more juicy and flavourful chop or double thick cutlet. Lamb is tender and has no marbling but the rack has a little fat near the bone). Always blot the surface of the meat to dry it. This enhances the caramelization of the meat surface to give you those desirable flavours. Season large portions generously. Always rest the meat after cooking to redistribute the juices and relax the meat fibres, making it more juicy and tender. You can enjoy Guy Leggatt’s cuisine in the Siraia Restaurant at the semi-private Sirocco Golf Club.

Guy Leggatt’s BBQ Rack of Lamb

Parsley Crostini Crumbs

Serves 4 2 Lamb racks, frenched, silverskin removed To taste Salt and pepper Canola oil Dijon mustard Parsley crostini crumbs mix Red Wine Reduction

1. Remove lamb from the fridge one hour before starting. 2. Pat the surface dry and season with salt and pepper, brush lightly with oil.

½ Baguette, sliced 0.6 cm (¼ inch) Olive oil Salt 1/4 cup (125 mL) Italian parsley, fine chopped 1 Tbs (15 mL) Thyme leaves 1 Lemon, zested 1 Tbs (15 mL) Olive oil

1. Prepare crostini by drizzling

3. Preheat a sauté pan on high heat, add oil and place one lamb rack carefully to sear all sides quickly to golden brown. Repeat with second rack.

baguette slices with olive oil and sprinkling with salt before baking in a hot oven until golden brown. Cool.

4. Brush the meat generously with Dijon and coat with the crumb mixture. You

2. Place crostini in food processor

can complete these steps earlier in the day and refrigerate the racks, in which case don’t temper the racks. Do that before finishing cooking.

5. Preheat your BBQ to 400° F, with the lid closed. 6. Set the tempered lamb on the rack above the grates to roast for 12 to 15

minutes for medium rare. If you use a lower heat (275°F), the lamb will require double the time. Check for internal temperature of 60°C (125°F).

7. Rest the racks under a foil tent for five to ten minutes before carving on a red wine reduction. 20 • May 2013

and pulse to make small crumbs.

3. Add parsley, thyme, lemon

zest and olive oil and pulse to mix thoroughly. Note: Ask your butcher to clean and trim the racks.


Chef Mark Jorundson, Canyon Meadows Golf and Country Club

years at Mossiman’s in London, England. Mark has a long list of international awards and accolades.

While Canyon Meadows Golf and Country Club is a private club, you can book functions if a member sponsors you. They are host to the Champion Tour 2013. A Culinary Team Alberta and Canada alumnus, Mark was with Rocky Mountaineer Rail Tours before settling in and starting a family. He was at the helm of Chance in Edmonton and spent three

Chef’s Tip

for beef ribs. His favourite ingredient is La Chinta smoked paprika and he uses 1/3 paprika to 2/3 salt for an all-purpose BBQ seasoning. Favourite meats are beef tenderloin and lamb rack, and you have to have chocolate mousse for dessert.

Jorundson’s current preference is for braising long and slow with secondary cuts and then he BBQs them. He finds a crockpot indispensable and uses it for 12 hours with a recipe for BBQ bison ribs he is sharing. Cooking time is less

Mark’s BBQ tips include cleaning the grates regularly and remembering to oil the hot grates before you set the meat down to prevent sticking. He recommends marinating meats overnight in oil, herbs and garlic.

BBQ Bison Ribs

bring to a boil.

3 Kg Bison ribs Salt and fresh ground pepper Smoked paprika Flour 1 Onion, cubed 2 Carrots, peeled and cut in half 1 Sweet potato cut in thick slices 1 sprig Rosemary and thyme 1 L Beef stock 2 cups (500 mL) Red wine

5. Cover and set in a 325° F oven and

1. Preheat oven to 450° F.

7. Place the ribs on the BBQ and heat

2. Season the ribs generously with

salt, pepper and paprika. Dust with flour and place on a baking sheet with a rack set in. Bake for 20 minutes.

Red Wine Reduction

4. Add the herbs, stock and wine and

Serves 4

3. Place vegetables in a casserole dish and top with ribs.

cook 3 or more hours or until the meat is tender.

6. Cool everything and refrigerate.

You can do this up to three days ahead. Leave the meat in the liquid or it will get very dry. Once cooled, remove the ribs and vegetables from the liquid. for 10 minutes before basting with your favourite BBQ sauce. Serve with the chilled vegetables (you can warm them if you want) and tomato salad. Note: Cook the ribs in a crockpot for approximately 12 hours, adding the vegetables after 10 hours. Beef ribs cook in eight hours.

2 Shallots, sliced 1 Garlic clove, sliced 1 sprig Thyme 2 cups (450 mL) Red wine 1 cup (225 mL) Port 2 Tbs (30 mL) Sugar 1 cup (225 mL) Stock

1. Place all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil.

2. Simmer until liquid is syrupy, then strain. Reserve for use.

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• 21


An Inspector Calls By JEFF COLLINS

“We respond to every single complaint we get in this office. So we’re very busy.” The steel in the voice is mitigated only slightly by a warm British accent. Sarah Nunn came to Canada after spending five years in the UK as a Health Inspector. “I wanted to contribute to society. I had a science background and I wanted to do a science degree but I wanted to do something that was not only interesting but helpful. This way I get to use my brain and I get to protect public health.” Today, Sarah Nunn is the “top cop” for Calgary’s burgeoning restaurant scene. She is the Supervisor of Alberta Health Services’ Calgary Zone Food Safety Team. That team consists of 19 inspectors who make it their business to ensure you can safely dine in Calgary eateries. Four years ago, the City of Calgary issued 1,898 business licenses in the category of “General Food Service with Premises”. In the first three months of 2013, it issued 2,019. Last year, Alberta Health Services issued 5,500 Food Handling Permits to restaurants, caterers, food trucks, and food 22 • May 2013

carts. If you serve food to the public in the Calgary area you need one of these. To get one, you are subject to inspection. You’ll get routine inspections, followup inspections, and inspections after a complaint. You will get to know your inspector. When an inspector called at Centini Restaurant and Lounge in April of 2011, they found absolutely nothing they could report as a violation. Chef and owner, Fabio Centini, boasts that

he and his team once had six straight inspections like that. “I make the chefs, or anybody working in the kitchen fear ‘The Inspector’ and that is a plus for me because it gives me the tools to say I want the kitchen like this and I want it like that. We’re due for an inspection. You make sure you get it done this way.” In January of last year, he was cited for thawing cheese and seafood improperly. He ordered his staff to immediately move the offending foodstuffs to the cooler. When he faces the ultimate complaint of making a customer sick, he reflects on his food safety practices. “A lot of food poisoning situations happen in peoples’ own homes. We’ve had the occasional person who came here to eat and an hour later they call us and say ‘Oh, I was sick, violently sick.’ And I say, ‘I can guarantee you it wasn’t us because you have just eaten and (food poisoning) takes a while. You have to go back to what you had for breakfast, what you had yesterday, and figure it out.” “With the majority of the food businesses we have in the Calgary area we have a very good relationship.” says Nunn, “Our approach with businesses is education first. Legal action is a last resort. Generally, we have a lot of food


businesses now that call us for advice, using us as a resource, which is wonderful. That’s how I’d prefer it. Of course, not everybody is going to be happy to see us.” That’s an understatement. Nunn and her colleagues have been refused entry, mocked, and insulted. She refers to the “ladder of enforcement”. On the bottom rung, there’s education and consultation; at the top, heavy fines and temporary closures. “We’re there ultimately to protect public health,” says Nunn, “and where we see an imminent risk, we have to do something about it.” Nunn and her team do more than 20,000 inspections a year. Chef Centini expects an inspector to do a thorough job, taking at least 30 minutes. That means each inspector is managing half a dozen inspections a day. So mistakes will happen. John Gilchrist is Calgary’s best-known restaurant critic. The eighth edition of his series, “My Favourite Restaurants In Calgary, Banff, and Beyond” will be published this fall. He remembers encountering a Health Inspector who was determined to take cured sausage out of an establishment, because it was not refrigerated. Gilchrist claims it was obvious she had never encountered a dried cured sausage before. “I have immense respect for the health inspectors but a lot of them don’t really know that much about food.” says Gilchrist. “It’s important that they understand, it’s about Canadian standards, but it is also about understanding the globalization of food. We live in a global environment, not just a local one. “ Nunn is unapologetic. “All foods prepared within the province of Alberta have to meet the Alberta regulations and standards. It’s as simple as that. I don’t see any concerns as far as food from other countries. I think we have a great selection of foods from around the world here in Calgary and it’s fascinating to go and inspect those facilities.” Nunn does more than “inspect”. She is an enthusiastic diner. “I have absolute confidence in the food safety system within Calgary, within Alberta, within Canada. I love eating out. I love trying different cuisines.” Note: Alberta Health Services posts all restaurant inspection reports in Alberta on-line at: www. albertahealthservices.ca/3149.asp Jeff Collins is a retired Calgary broadcaster. He is an avid target shooter and hunter. He is also an enthusiastic, if not entirely competent, cook.

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• 23


Riding High:

Cowboy of the Americas Story and photography by CORY KNIBUTAT

24 â&#x20AC;˘ May 2013


By honouring his heritage and the culinary region of South America where he was raised, Ede Rodrigues has firmly established his culture and traditions in our meatloving city at Gaucho, a Brazilian barbeque restaurant. world offers. 6 months after that I was in Japan. I didn’t think it was something I wanted to do for my whole life, but it was something I enjoyed,” he added. Not satisfied with just Japan, Ede traveled to China where he would eventually meet Rosina, a Canadian who at the time was pursuing her studies abroad. “I was studying to be a teacher,” Rosina said. “The last term of my degree program, they were offering international studies and China was the only place that would pay for everything (laughs).”

A lifelong dedication to doing what he loves, and seeing his goals come to fruition through hard work, have rewarded Chef Ede Rodrigues and his co-owner wife Rosina, with a thriving business. They have seen incredible progress over the past decade, from simple catered family functions to two restaurants both hitting their stride. Gaucho, in Brazilian churrascaria style, offers a rodízio service where guests pay a set price and ‘passadores’ (meat waiters) bring several different types of meat on skewers, cutting off slices or chunks at your table, until you signal them to stop. This style of service is ideal for lengthy dinners but can be sped up for quicker lunches as well. Ede and Rosina stress that the food and experience are exactly as you would find where Ede grew up, without cutting any corners. “Everything here is as it would be in Brazil,” Rosina said. “We don’t do coconut rice, that’s not Brazilian rice,” she added. “So we do our garlic and bay-leaf rice, and our marinades are traditional Brazilian marinades.” “You’ve got to know how to butcher and get the right cuts of

meat and how to do the marinades,” Ede added. “The service of the meat too,” Rosina said. “Knowing how to cut the meat with straight-edged knives not serrated knives. One of the first things our servers learn is how to sharpen their knives. A lot of the magic of Brazilian barbeque is in the cut. It’s thin slices and if you get someone who’s trying to serve you a massive hunk of meat, and particularly beef, because Brazilians don’t marinade it unless it’s Parmesan beef, you’ve got to know how to cut it properly, otherwise it’s just going to taste like a hunk of beef.”

“I met him in the hotel he was working at and we had a teacher night and the teachers had discounts and we were eating there thinking, “Oh my god, I can’t believe this is not in Canada because this is how Canadians love meat,” Rosina said. “We love barbeque.” “She brought me here because she was missing home,” Ede added. “My contract finished at the hotel where I was working. I wanted to see what was happening in Canada.” Ede came to Canada with Rosina not actually

Working in restaurants since the age of 16, Ede learned everything he could about Brazilian barbeque before being offered a chance to cook in Japan at the age of 24. His boss at the time was opening a restaurant but needed staff that knew the proper way to cook. “First I thought, ‘Wow, Japan, what can I do there, really? It’s so different,’” Ede said. “Then I thought I want to see some of the world and see what the culinairemagazine.ca

• 25


intending to cook. He wanted to try his hand at something new and see what opportunities were available, much like when he first left for Japan. “My first job was at Tim Horton’s, when I was coming from a five star hotel it was just like culture shock,” Ede said. After a bit of time, however, the itch to cook again came back, this time in the form of small catering jobs, not as a business to begin with. Just cooking for the enjoyment of it and to show family and friends what Brazilian cooking was all about. “Our family pushed us into it, basically (laughs),” Rosina said. “We worked all week and then we were basically cooking on the weekend for family and friends for fun,” Rosina said. “It’s something that gets in your blood.” “Then friends of friends started asking and we thought, ‘Hang on, I think we could start a catering business here?” Ede added. “My first license was as a chef for hire, where you can cook and prepare in

people’s houses. Bring everything and make it there. And that’s what we did.” Launched officially in 2006, Ede and Rosina’s catering became so successful; they were able to save enough money to open their own restaurant in the fall of 2007. At the time rent was sky-high and the initial overhead was enormous, as most equipment couldn’t be found in Canada and had to be brought from Brazil, including the rotisseries and skewers. Fortunately their old location was in an industrial area, which meant a lot of their initial customer base consisted of men who loved their barbecue. “It was busy right away but it took about a year to make money,” Ede said. “2008 was a very good year.” Good enough that to book large tables or parties meant a wait-list of almost three months. Good business wasn’t a bad thing, however, as it allowed Ede

and Rosina to expand and move to their current location on Macleod Trail, a location twice the size of the original. “People in Calgary really relate to the cowboy culture so we want them to come here and see a different cowboy culture that’s very relatable to what they know,” Rosina said. When people in Calgary think barbeque, they think of a gathering of people and good food and that’s exactly what Gaucho is about. “We’ve been around the world and there’s no other place where you can come in and in three years, open your own restaurant and open a second restaurant a year or two later,” Ede said. “There’s no other city like this city. The sky’s the limit pretty much.” Having worked in restaurants since he was 14, Cory translated his passion for food into his journalistic ambitions, not critiquing but meeting the people who make it and finding out what inspires them.

Parmesan Beef

Serves 2 Photo credit Joanna Kostanecki

1 package bamboo skewers, pre-soaked 300g top sirloin beef, cut into 2.5 cm (1”) cubes 3 finely chopped green onions 1/4 tsp black pepper 1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) sea salt 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil 100 g Parmesan cheese, finely grated

1. Place beef cubes in a large bowl and

coat with green onions, black pepper, sea salt and canola oil. Seal the bowl and refrigerate overnight.

2. Preheat grill or flat top. 3. Place the Parmesan cheese in a long

5. Grill skewers over medium heat turning 4 times to cook each side. When beef is

shallow dish.

cooked to your desired wellness, bring the skewers to the Parmesan dish and coat each side well.

4. Skewer the beef cubes on the pre-

6. Return to the grill and cook until the cheese melts slightly and turns golden

soaked bamboo skewers. 26 • May 2013

brown. Plate and serve immediately. Bon Appetit!


Container Gardening By LEONARD BROWN

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s May again and time to get seeds germinated and gardens planned. Hopefully youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve visited catalogues and stores, and kept lists for ideas for the season. It may be helpful to have selections to repeat or to try, unless you have endless resources and time to grow everything.

Get started on the micro-greens and sprouting seeds immediately. Microgreen seeds germinate in soil or growing medium in a growing tray, or any container that would be appropriate to your living situation. Sprouting seeds need a moist, aerated surface devoid of soil or soilless medium. Light is the key, so make use of windowsill space if indoors, or a place outdoors. Due to night temperatures still being unreliable and cool with a threat of frost, it would be risky to leave the greens outside or unprotected. Garden centres and catalogues are the best places to source cold frames, protective covers or ideas to house the seedlings in a protective way, whilst allowing maximum light exposure. As soon as the first leaves appear, the micro-greens can be cut with sharp scissors and enjoyed in salads and other dishes. The greens are intensely flavourful and visually attractive. Keep on reseeding micro-greens to have a constant supply whilst lettuces, beets and other greens are growing in the garden. Container gardening simultaneously begins. Use your imagination to seek out anything with the ability to hold an amount of soil, appropriate for the plants or seeds. It is essential that containers be practical and functional. There must be a drainage exit for water unless the container is to be a holder for another smaller one with drainage. Lack of drainage will cause water-logging and rot.

matter, sand, perlite or peat moss. You can amend soil mixes throughout the growing season to maximize your success. It is a good idea to include an additive such as water absorbing crystals, or to construct or prepare containers to minimize excessive water loss and desiccation. Container diversity is extensive and allows your imagination to indulge. If containers are for indoors and not able to be close to a window, then you can still succeed with the additional help of grow lights. Use household objects, old paint cans, glass containers, wooden, plastic or ceramic vessels, plastic bags. There are endless ideas for containers. Anything imaginable is possible as long as the principles of practicality and functionality are observed. There is no point growing a tomato plant in a shallow tin can with no drainage. But it is possible to paint a small tuna can, punch a few holes at the bottom and plant a small succulent or cactus, which will survive in minimal soil that may be dry mostly. Let your imagination soar and enjoy. Leonard hails from South Africa, spoiled with exceptional wine, culturally diverse foods and horticultural magnificence. He realized that what was taken for granted elsewhere, had to be achieved with hard work, commitment, patience and passion in Calgary.

The soil used can be bought ready fertilized, or you can mix up your own soil, adding well-composted organic culinairemagazine.ca

â&#x20AC;˘ 27


We are now on one of my favourite topics - wild meat! I just can’t say enough “good” about it, and of course it is the epitome of finding your own food! Everything from a health perspective, to respect for the hunted animal, is part and parcel of this tradition. So much respect is given to the animal, that everything that can be used from the animal is used, and there is a surprising amount from parts you would not realize can be used. For example, the vitreous humour from the animal’s eye was often mixed with the powder from the Aspen tree to make a white paint. Wild meat is something that is appreciated by my culture, and the gratitude flows in respect to the abundance it brings. Moose meat and Caribou are my two favourites and though I don’t often get Caribou, I relish it when I get the chance. Moose is more abundant in our home, as are deer and elk. Wild meat is hard earned, not just the hunting of the animal and the many days it can take in preparation, but once you have a successful hunt, the real work begins. If you are keeping the hide in one piece to process it, you then need to either

skin the animal in the field and haul the meat and hide out, or just leave the animal in once piece to haul out of the bush. Either way to field dress a moose is a lot of work.

nose out of the broth, remove the meat from the nose, cut it up and put back in the broth with the vegetables and let them cook on low for several hours. A crockpot comes in handy here.

Even after you have brought your animal home, you have to process and cut the meat, and great care is taken to ensure we keep what we need. Tanning the hide also takes many days of hard work to produce a great smoked hide, and then more work if you are going to create clothing or moccasins from the hide.

Enjoy this hearty soup with some bannock and wild mint tea!

But let’s explore one of my favourite things to do with moose. Sounds kind of gross, but I do like Moose nose soup! First you need clean it well and then remove any stray hairs and you may need pliers to pull out any big whiskers. Then put the nose in boiling water and take it down to a simmer for about half an hour, add all the vegetables and other items you like in a soup. Take the

A Cree/Iroquois Métis, Brenda was born in Jasper National Park. Her company, Mahikan Trails (mahikan.ca) delivers unique programs through Aboriginal Tradition to explore the natural wonders of the Canadian Rockies.

Meat In The Wild By BRENDA HOLDER

28 • May 2013


Benefits Of Branded Beef By HEATHER HARTMANN

Do you secretly (or not so secretly) wonder if “branded beef” programs are a bunch of bull? There’s a serious proliferation of them these days, and each claim that their beef is best. Most carnivorous consumers at least understand the basics of meat grading – AAA steak, 90% lean ground beef, etc. Beyond that, understanding the specifics of the various programs can seem daunting, so why bother?

Coming from a background in the cattle industry, I’m certainly not going to offer an opinion on which is best, or even if you should practice loyalty to any brand of beef. What I can do is explain the benefits of knowing the differences between the various programs. For example, if you wanted to continue to support Canadian ranchers (and your steak habit) during last fall’s E.Coli crisis, but were concerned with all the beef recalls, knowing the ins and outs of which products were packed where would have made your dining decisions easier. First, let’s talk about programs that put the breed front and centre. Does it matter

what kind of cow the meat came from? Well, since genetic traits are passed down in cattle just as they are in dogs, humans, and other species, some breeds will naturally exhibit certain traits (for example – marbling, the fat that makes beef tasty) to a greater extent than others, and you may find one that caters more to your particular taste. From a loyalty standpoint, if you have family who raise purebred cattle, you might want to purchase beef from that breed as a show of solidarity with them. That said, it’s a common misconception that having a breed name on your steak means that the animal it came from was

a purebred. While it’s possible, it’s not the case a majority of the time, as those who breed purebred cattle raise them as future breeding stock, not for meat. Depending on the brand, it also does not necessarily mean that the program itself is even affiliated with the corresponding breed association. Simply put, if the product has a ‘breed brand’ on it, most often the animal from which the meat originated had some predominant characteristics of that breed. One of the most well-known and prolific branded beef programs that is breedspecific is Certified Angus Beef ®. You see it on menus constantly, but do you really know what it means? How is it different

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than beef that’s just ‘regular’ Angus? In this particular case, the brand is actually an arm of the American Angus Association, and the meat must satisfy specific quality (grade, aging, sizing, and trim) requirements. Even if a brand is affiliated with a breed association, it’s important to know that breed associations don’t regulate how cattle are raised, so within one breed there will be differences in whether the cattle have been treated with antibiotics, and what they have been fed.

produces and retails their product in Western Canada. Now the criteria for qualification as Certified Organic has been explained, all those programs which have other specific disclaimers on them should be easier to understand. For instance, if a product is touted to be “hormone-free,” they are not claiming the animal it came from was raised without antibiotics, or that it grazed on pasture that was not treated with crop chemicals.

Obviously, the debate about the benefits or lack thereof of eating organic has been ongoing for years. Whether you follow an organic diet or not, it’s good to know

If you’re concerned about how ‘green’ your red meat is, there are brands that address this, too. There are environmental best practices for raising cattle, and one company that follows them is Bite

just what that means as regards beef. Animals from programs that are Certified Organic by Canada Organic Standards are raised without hormones, not treated with antibiotics, and grazed on land that has not been treated with synthetic chemical fertilizers or prohibited pesticides for a minimum of 36 months prior. Any other feed the animals consume must also come from a certified mill. Certified farms and ranches, as well as feed mills, are inspected, and health and field records are required for these herds. If this is the type of product you want, Diamond Willow Organic Beef (www.diamondwillow.ca) is a Certified Organic operation that both

Beef (www.bitebeef.com) of Balzac. Bite starts their herd in Saskatchewan, and finishes it in Alberta. In Saskatchewan, they’ve worked with Ducks Unlimited Canada (DUC) to rebalance their land for better biodiversity, employing practices such as seeding land back to grass and restoring natural sloughs and wetlands. Though there is no formal agreement between their Alberta property and DUC, they follow the same practices here. Additionally, Bite grazes their cattle on DUC land in Saskatchewan every three to five years, which helps preserve the land by helping with fire prevention and soil health, among other things.

Does it matter what kind of cow the meat came from? Well, since genetic traits are passed down in cattle just as they are in dogs, humans, and other species, some breeds will naturally exhibit certain traits (for example – marbling, the fat that makes beef tasty) to a greater extent than others, and you may find one that caters more to your particular taste.

30 • May 2013


For some consumers, it’s less about the cattle themselves, and more about the environmental impact of the whole production process. One of Alberta’s prominent ranching success stories, Spring Creek Beef (springcreek.ca) uses Canada’s first Integrated bioRefinery™ to convert the biological waste they produce into, among other things; ethanol fuel, cattle feed, and energy which powers not just their own operation, but over 2,500 homes. Likewise, proponents of local-food movements will literally want to know “Where’s the beef?” in order to be sure their choices minimize fossil fuel emissions. Though they do obviously move their cattle from Saskatchewan to Alberta for finishing, Bite Beef employs a

number of other tactics to reduce their emissions, from working cattle primarily on horseback (rather than using ATVs), to having all cattle slaughtered locally, and coordinating delivery dates so that they are only bringing product into Calgary one or two days a week. Maybe you don’t necessarily care so much about where the cow came from, but more about where the meat did. For anyone who wanted to continue eating beef during last fall’s E.Coli crisis, but was concerned about the repeated recalls from the XL Foods Lakeside plant in Brooks (since purchased by JBS Foods), just knowing that Sterling Silver beef (www.sterlingsilvermeats.com) is a Cargill product (and thus packed at their plants, not XL’s) could have alleviated a lot of

concern. You could still enjoy your steak, without the side of worry. Not so long ago, the word ‘brand’ in regards to beef meant the ‘Lazy S’ or ‘Double H’ that adorned the livestock. To say that’s changed, at least where consumers are concerned, is putting it mildly. We Albertans are fortunate to live in cattle country, where, whatever your preferences are, there’s likely a branded beef program that addresses them. Heather Hartmann spent several years working in the cattle business. A writer by trade, she’s the Calgary restaurant columnist for Examiner.com. You can reach her on Facebook and Twitter @DemocraticDiner.

EAT FRESH THIS SPRING THURSDAY – SUNDAY 9AM – 5PM

510 77TH AVE SE CALGARYFARMERSMARKET.CA culinairemagazine.ca

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The Good, The Bad & The Ugly Of Red Meat

Red meat consumption is on the decline. According to food availability data, the average Canadian ate approximately 23 kg of red meat per year in 2009, down from about 31 kg in 1981. These numbers show no signs of slowing – in the Canadian Consumer Retail Meat Study conducted by the Alberta Livestock & Meat Association, 44% of respondents stated that they eat less beef now than they did five years ago, and 29% said that they expect to eat even less beef in the next five years. Many people cite health for this change. Is red meat really bad for you, or is it just smokescreen and mirrors from the fish and chicken industries? We break down the good, the bad and the ugly.

32 • May 2013

By VINCCI TSUI, RD

The Good • Red meats, such as beef, pork, lamb, mutton, veal, bison and venison, are rich in protein and a full of vitamins and minerals, including iron, zinc, phosphorus, selenium and B vitamins. • Iron and zinc from animal sources are better absorbed than from plant sources like legumes and green leafy vegetables. Offal products tend to be highest in iron, but if that’s too “awful” for you, a Canada’s Food Guide serving (75 g) of beef sirloin tip steak has just over 3 mg of iron (men need 8 mg in a day and women need 18 mg) and almost a day’s worth of zinc.

• Vitamin B12 is found almost exclusively in animals, and plays a role in the function of our brain and nervous system. Venison is particularly rich in the nutrient, with a serving containing almost double the amount we need in a day.

The Bad (Heart Disease) • High red meat consumption is thought to be associated with heart disease because of its high saturated fat content. Saturated and trans fats have a greater impact on our blood cholesterol than the cholesterol we eat. Love that beautiful marbling that you see in Wagyu beef? That’s going straight to your arteries!


• Fortunately, it doesn’t look like it’s red meat specifically that can increase your risk of heart disease, but instead it depends more on the cut and whether it’s processed. • A meta-analysis published in the December 2012 issue of Current Atherosclerosis Reports found that while processed meats, like deli slices, bacon, hot dogs and sausage, can increase your risk of heart disease, fresh cuts have a much smaller effect or no increase at all. In other words, to minimize your risk but still enjoy red meat, choose leaner animals, such as veal, bison, venison or grass-fed beef, and/or leaner cuts, like eye of round steak, pork tenderloin, or extra-lean ground meat. Don’t forget to trim your meat before cooking!

The Ugly (Cancer & Death) • While there is only a tenuous link between red meat consumption and heart disease, there is much stronger evidence that eating too much red meat can increase your risk of colorectal cancer. As a result, the World Cancer Research Fund (WCRF) and American Institute of Cancer Research (AICR) recommend eating less than 500 g of red meat per week, or about a serving of red meat daily, and avoiding processed meats. • Last year, a study from Harvard generated a lot of buzz, claiming that red meat increases your risk of death. Given the link between red meat and conditions like heart disease and cancer, the report makes sense. The researchers also followed nearly 13,000 people over 28 years, giving the results strong statistical power. However, the study does have some flaws. First, it gathered intake information using food frequency questionnaires done every two years – do you remember how often you’ve eaten red meat in the past two years? What if the amount you eat has changed? Second, the researchers identified that people who eat red meat also are more likely to smoke, drink, be overweight, be less physically active and eat fewer whole grains, vegetables and fruit. While the authors did account for those lifestyle factors in their analysis, there could be other behaviours that could have contributed to the higher mortality. • Finally, while it’s scary to think that red meat can increase your risk of death by 13%, the study only saw this with an increase of one serving per day of red meat. In other words, you would have to increase your red meat intake by about three ounces every day!

What it all Means Red meat can still be a part of a healthy diet, and most Canadians are already meeting the healthy recommendations for red meat consumption. If you do choose to enjoy red meat, get the most bang for your buck by trying a variety of types of meat and cuts, favouring leaner, trimmed meats and avoiding processed as much as possible.

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Simplicity:

The New Classic

By ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH Photography by INGRID KUENZEL

34 • May 2013


Andrew Keen isn’t the kind of chef who cares about flavoured salts, molecular gastronomy or other fussy food trends. Fancy tricks and newfound exotic ingredients just aren’t his thing. For Keen, the perfect plate consists of a quality piece of meat cooked precisely to order, and a couple of classic sides like sautéed mushrooms or spinach gratin. As the new executive chef at the Vintage Chophouse, one of Calgary’s most beloved and luxurious steakhouses, Keen is able to spend his time focusing on quality and simplicity, and as a chef he wouldn’t have it any other way.

Although he was born in Canada, Keen was raised in the U.K. on a rural smallholding, so the meals of his youth were all about fresh, homegrown ingredients. Keen says that his upbringing greatly influenced the cooking philosophies that he’s carried through to his career as a chef. “There were always lots of local fresh ingredients — we raised chicken and beef and quail,” Keen says. “Homesteading right out of the garden into the kitchen is part of my background, so it really feels natural to use the freshest ingredients. Going to the big supermarkets is not how I was brought up.” Keen moved to Whistler, BC in 1992 to begin apprenticing as a young chef in some of the affluent mountain community’s finest restaurants. Because of the concentration of highend restaurants and transient nature

of much of the staff in the area, Keen was able to get a foothold in the local restaurant scene and hone his culinary skills. He brought that fine dining experience with him when he arrived in Calgary in the early 2000s to open Living Room, where he was a partner as well as the original chef. From there, Keen went to the CA Restaurant Group, where he worked his magic at Murietta’s, the Trib Steakhouse, and the Parkerhouse Grill and Winebar. Seven years later, Keen made a career shift and moved into the world of being a corporate chef, taking over the Corporate Executive Chef position at the Chop and Shark Club restaurant chains. While Keen enjoyed the change of pace and challenges that came as corporate chef for a multi-unit operation, in December of last year he left that position to join the Vintage Group, and is now the Executive Chef at the Vintage Chophouse. With eventual culinairemagazine.ca

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plans to expand the Chophouse brand to additional restaurants, the new job gives Keen a chance to combine his experience as a corporate chef with his love of working hands-on in the kitchen. And, as a lover of simple, high-quality food, the fit is perfect. Since coming onboard at Vintage, Keen hasn’t overhauled the menu or implemented any drastic changes, mainly because he hasn’t had to. The Vintage Chophouse has a loyal customer base for a good reason — the restaurant is an elegant and classic steakhouse that serves iconic steakhouse fare. For Keen to

revolutionize the menu just for the sake of appearing more modern or on trend would be to go against what both he and the restaurant itself stands for. Just like before Keen’s arrival, Chophouse’s menu is made up of simple cuts of meat, classic sauces for those who like a little béarnaise, blue cheese, or peppercorn with their steak, and rich vegetable and potato sides to complement the meat. Customers who are not in the mood for a steak can choose from equally delicious seafood, chicken, or lamb options, but everything from the appetizers and the salads down to the desserts is absolutely classic, and Keen is not one to monkey

with what has already been proven to work so very well. “We’re true to who we are, that’s really what it comes down to,” Keen says. “I’ve been in Calgary since 2000, so this place opened just after I’ve got here, and it’s been the same. It’s evolved, but the feel and integrity of what this restaurant is has remained very, very loyal, which is why it’s a success. We don’t try to be fancy or do anything different — we try to cook a really good steak to the customers’ preference and a perfect side in an upscale, but not too old-fashioned, setting.”

Win a special night at Vintage Chophouse for you and three friends, where Chef Keen will create a four course dinner for you, and you’ll enjoy each course paired with a different wine! We want to know the story of the best and most memorable meat/steak meal you’ve ever had. Where was it? Who were you with? What was the occasion? Why was it so memorable? Go to culinairemagazine.ca and let us know about your most memorable meat or steak meal, to be entered in the competition. We can’t wait to hear from you! 36 • May 2013


Keen may be overly modest in his claim that Vintage isn’t doing anything different, because as simple as they may be, the steaks at Vintage certainly outshine much of the competition. Keen starts by bringing in the best cuts of meat he can find, be it more standard rib-eye, tenderloins, and New Yorks, as well as specialty cuts sourced from local producers. Servers bring raw cuts of meat right to customers’ tables on a butcher board and carefully explain the selections so that diners are fully educated on options that they may not have seen at other steakhouses. It’s an impressive touch that many steak lovers appreciate. “We’re really trying to tap into niche markets to give customers something a little more interesting and unique,” Keen says. “We’re doing bone-in tenderloins and bone-in New Yorks. Those cuts have to come from a specialty cutter because they have to take the carcass and do something different with it. We’re bringing in some nice Wagyu and other kinds of meat from smaller suppliers as well. There are a lot of great boutique suppliers in Alberta and BC as well that don’t hit the main herd.” As for the actual cooking, Keen says he continues to be fascinated by the intricacies that come with something as simple as cooking a steak. Mentoring his staff and cooking steak after steak after steak every night never gets boring for him — in fact, Keen says that when he goes home and makes dinner for his family, more often than not he gets behind the barbeque and puts some steaks on the grill. “It’s a piece of steak, but so much goes on when you’re cooking it,” Keen says. “But really, it’s the simplicity. You’ve really done nothing to the meat. You take out the cut and then you age it, you season it, and you cook it — that’s really all these is to it. There’s no pureeing there’s no other things to go with it. And simple food is, to me, the toughest to cook. When we’re 200 steaks deep on a Friday night and the grill is going and every single one is cooked to order perfectly, it’s pretty amazing.”

In addition to making sure those steaks are cooked perfectly to order, Keen sees his role at Vintage as being about maintaining consistency and passing his knowledge down to his kitchen staff while also encouraging them to put some heart and soul into their cooking. He will be in the kitchen — as opposed to behind a desk in a more corporate role — as often as he’s needed at Vintage, to ensure that the food lives up to his standards. “I’ll always have a really hands-on role with the food and the staff,” Keen says. “Food is food. Everyone can cook or follow a recipe, but what makes it special is when it’s got that real love put into it. It’s not just a food factory. There has to be consistency throughout, and that’s where the corporate side has got it down pat. But hopefully I can bring in a little bit of my creativity and start blending it in.” And once again, that creativity won’t be about doing anything too crazy with the food or interfering with the natural deliciousness of the meat. If anything, Keen sees the return of classic dishes as the latest trend in cooking, so he can remain fashionable without sacrificing simplicity. Ultimately Vintage Chophouse customers are looking for dishes they recognize, just tweaked slightly to appeal to a modern palate. “Even if we’re changing the names, the classics are really coming back. Just doing them is new and creative again,” Keen says. “If it’s tried and true and tested and has survived 60 years, it must be a good dish. You can only reinvent so much. Everything’s been done, so we wind it all back a little bit and go back to our roots and start from there. That’s been my thought on food for quite some time.”

Andrew Keen’s Meatloaf Serves 6 1.13 kg Lean ground beef 1 cup (250 ml) Red wine 140 g Onions, diced ¼” ½ tsp (2.5 ml) Dried oregano ½ tsp (2.5 ml) Dried thyme 2 Tbs (30 ml) Dijon 1½ cups (355 ml) Tomato sauce 1 Tbs (5 ml) Red wine vinegar 3/4 cup (175 ml) Coarse breadcrumbs 1½ tsp (7.5 ml) Coarse sea salt ½ cup (125 ml) Your favourite steak sauce

1. Combine wine, onions, oregano,

thyme, Dijon, ½ cup of tomato sauce, and vinegar in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil and let simmer for about 10 minutes.

2. Allow wine mixture to cool

completely and add to the ground beef. Add in the breadcrumbs and mix well.

3. Divide the mixture into six equal

mini loafs and place in a casserole dish. Spread the remaining cup of tomato sauce evenly over the loaves.

4. Cover the casserole with foil and

bake at 375º F for approximately 30 min, or until internal temperature reaches 71º C (160º F).

5. Brush each loaf with steak sauce and cook for three more minutes.

Over her 15-year career as a professional writer, Elizabeth Chorney-Booth has written about music, film, business, and food, but ultimately she just likes to hear and share people’s stories.

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Fat Of The Land by GABRIEL HALL Photos Courtesy of BRANT LAKE WAGYU

38 • May 2013


Globally, the legendary moniker “Kobe beef” always makes diners salivate. What many don’t realize is that Kobe beef is only a single example of this genre. Many different variations of this meat are produced in Japan, including the famous Matsusaka and Yonezawa varieties. All varieties are collectively referred to as “wagyu”.

The classification of wagyu encompasses four breeds of cattle, all of which have a genetic predisposition to producing intense marbling: The Japanese Black (Kurgeo Washu), Japanese Brown (Akage Washu), Japanese Polled (Mukaku Washu) and the Japanese Short Horn (Nihon Tankaku Washu). Meat from these breeds often rate on the higher half of the twelve point Beef Marbling Scale (BMS).

She continues, “Barley is the predominate grain fed to these cattle after grazing on grass for ten to fifteen months. It takes wagyu longer to mature - the breed is not as heavily muscled. We feed our wagyu cross cattle much longer than traditional or commercial cattle; up to 500 days, whereas North American cattle are typically fed for 120-160 days. We have decided to grow them slowly and sustainably without growth hormones.”

The export of wagyu meat and genetics is strictly controlled by the Japanese. This results in very few purebred wagyu herds outside of Japan, forcing international producers to cross-breed cattle to produce local wagyu-cross beef.

When asked about the legend of sake and beer-fed massaged cows, Ball notes, “This is a Japanese technique believed only to aid in digestion and induce hunger during humid seasons. It appears to have no effect on the meat’s flavour.”

Alberta is no stranger to raising cattle, which makes it a natural place to develop local wagyu-cross beef. Michelle Ball of Southern Alberta’s Brant Lake Wagyu comments, “We produce a wagyu/Angus cross. It consistently grades in the top AAA or Prime. Our beef is dry aged 21 days to enhance palatability.”

Another perceived fallacy is the fat content in wagyu. We often equate excess fat with unhealthy eating, but Ball reassures us that when consumed in moderation, the opposite is true, “In reality, research done by Texas A&M, Washington State University and other institutions has shown that monounsaturated fatty acid to saturated fatty

acid ratio is up to two times higher in wagyu beef. In addition, the levels of Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids are 30% higher than other breeds. For consumers, this all equates to reduced cholesterol and protection against many diseases.” Creating diversity can only be a boon to our cattle industry, “It is another great branded beef consumers can choose from. We are offering consumers a locally raised, healthy and superior tasting beef that is unique to Canada and North America” Ball concludes. It appears that Ball is spot on, as producers and consumers have both rushed to embrace local wagyu-cross beef, not just because of the mythology behind it, but because it is a truly lascivious product. Gabriel Hall is a freelance writer who has traveled to many parts of the world to explore food and culture. His website, www. levoyagegourmand.com and his twitter, @voyagegourmand are living archives of his experiences.

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Meatballs: On A Roll

By JOCELYN BURGENER

On a Roll! A staple around the world, the meatball has proven to be both adaptable and adventuresome, but where did it come from? Its origins lie in Italy, preserved in the first known recipe for meatballs. Written in Latin, De Re Coquinaria Libri Decem (“On the Subject of Cooking”) is believed to be the oldest collection of recipes. Known as APICIUS, the collection was compiled in the late 4th or early 5th century AD and is arranged in ten books. Book II is devoted to “minces,” or mixtures of meat and other ingredients, and lists the preferred choice as follows: “The ground meat patties of peacock have first place, if they are fried so that they remain tender. Those of pheasant have second place, those of rabbit third, those of chicken fourth, and those of suckling pig fifth.” The volume also contains the following recipe for stuffed meat patties:

40 • May 2013

In 1963 folk singer Tom Glazer adapted the traditional tune On Top of Old Smokey and recorded the well-known campfire sing-a-long song, On Top of Spaghetti. “On top of spaghetti all covered with cheese I lost my poor meatball when somebody sneezed. It rolled off the table and on to the floor And then my poor meatball rolled out through the door.” “Ground Meat Patties in Omentum* Grind chopped meat with the centre of fine white bread that has been soaked in wine. Grind together pepper, garum, and pitted myrtle berries if desired. Form small patties, putting in pine nuts and pepper. Wrap in omentum and cook slowly in caroenum**.” *Omentum: pork caul fat **Caroenum: sweet wine boiled down one third Meatballs were popular for the same reasons as today: when meat was scarce, portions could be increased by mixing in vegetables and starches. Mixing the meat with spices and breads kept it tender, and using scraps of meat meant nothing was wasted.


they were mainly served on festive occasions only.

Melting Pot

What’s in a Name? * The popularity of kofta - from koffteh, Persian for pounded meat - grew across the Middle East with the spread of Islam and the growth of the spice trade, from the 2nd to 9th centuries AD. Made from ground lamb or beef seasoned with onions and spices, they are shaped in balls or rolls, and grilled or fried, steamed or poached, baked or marinated, served dry or with a spiced gravy. In Arabic kitchens koftas may be rolled into orange-sized balls and glazed with saffron and egg yolk. • In Greece, mint is added to the meatballs, before they are fried. Feta cheese is included in Albanian meatballs; and noodles, bean curd, and eggs are added to Indonesian meatballs. • Meatballs can be an appetizer or main course. In Japan, the meatball,

hanbâgu, is a grilled hamburger steak. As albóndigas in Spain and Mexico, they are served in broth with vegetables. South American albóndigas maintain their Spanish influence yet retain a distinctive regional flavour. • In Uruguay veal is also used, and preparations include sautéing the meatball before adding to a winefortified broth. • Availability of local ingredients and emerging technology influenced the development of Swedish meatballs, first referenced in a cookbook written by Cajsa Warg in 1754. They included lingonberry preserves and were served in a crème-based gravy, with buttered noodles. They weren’t an everyday staple, as meat was scarce in northern Scandinavia, and until the invention of meat grinders in the early 19th century, preparation was laborious. Consequently

Distinguished by culture, religious traditions, local ingredients, spices, and methods of cooking, the humble meatball has become a truly global culinary staple, evolving in North America as waves of immigrants from Europe, Asia and the Middle East arrived. Traditional recipes were exposed to western lifestyles; even Italian polpettes, underwent a transformation. Originally meatballs and spaghetti were served as separate courses. They were combined in response to the request of American diners, according to Jean Anderson, author of The American Century Cookbook: The Most Popular Recipes of the 20th Century, published in 2005.

Follow that Meatball! With the continued popularity of ethnic cuisine, the meatball will certainly continue to evolve and adapt. Keep your eye on the ball by checking out Calgary’s own Julie Van Rosendaal’s meatball recipes at dinnerwithjulie.com A former MLA, Jocelyn was Director of Public Affairs for the Calgary Chamber of Commerce and ran her own consulting business. She finds clarity in chaos and humour in everyday life.

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Step ByGourmet Step: Burgers Story and photographs by NATALIE FINDLAY

How do we turn an everyday item like a burger into something special? It all starts with the ingredients. Fresh, clean and full of flavour. These gourmet burgers will shake up burger night and keep you away from the nearest fast-food joint and at home, showing off with your family and friends. To kick up the flavour for a beef burger, head to your butcher for your meat. Most butchers have a mix of meats that they like to grind, but you can also ask them to grind your own. The meat should come in around 30% fat in order to make a juicy burger. The fat is needed to add flavour and texture. A lower fat burger can be dry; one of the worst burger sins. Your burger can also be dry due to overcooking. We want to make sure any bacteria is killed, and that can be reached at an internal cooking temperature of 71º C, as advised by Health Canada. Over that and you are starting to kill any chance of enjoying your meal. The components that have the most impact on how great your burger tastes are the meat, the bun, and the fixings. Here are some guidelines to making each ingredient shine:

• The meat should be seasoned with pepper and herbs only, prior to cooking (adding salt to the meat any time prior to just before it hits the heat changes the texture of the meat after cooking, causing it to be more dense and dry). A ratio of 1 tsp of kosher salt per 454 g (1 lb) of ground meat will enhance the flavour of the beef. Over-handling of the ground meat will lead to poor texture and a poor burger. In order to resist overhandling your meat, move the mixings to the fixings. A lot of people like to add onions to the meat; change that to cooked onions as a condiment. This will bring out the flavour of the onions, and the meat will have the opportunity to taste great on it’s own. No need for eggs or breadcrumbs to obscure the delicious taste of ground meat, as it will hold together without anything mixed into it. Putting together these components will give you a delicious, gourmet burger that you will be glad you stayed in for.

• You want a bun that will be able to hold everything together. The bun is merely the vehicle and therefore should not be bigger than the burger. Make sure to take that into consideration when sizing your patty. • The mayonnaise is an opportunity to increase flavour: roasted garlic, fresh herbs, hot sauce, mustard, chipotle peppers. Anything you can imagine! • Sautéing onion takes the harsh bite out of it and gives it a deep rich flavour. Cooking the onions in beer adds even more flavour (and you can prepare these prior to dinner).

42 • May 2013


Another amazing burger combination to inject some life into your burger evenings, is the fabulous pork burger with coleslaw. Remember the guidelines and enjoy making this delicious new burger.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made wedding and specialty cakes.

Whether you enjoy just ketchup and mustard on your burger or the works, keep your burger gourmet by using the freshest ingredients, having the butcher grind your meat, and have fun!

For the coleslaw:

• The tomato must be fresh and ripe. Please do not put an unripe tomato in your burger. Only great products make a great burger. If the tomatoes aren’t ripe then leave them out. • Bacon, well, it speaks for itself.

125 g mayonnaise 7 ml (1 1/2 tsp) white wine vinegar 5 g parsley, rough chopped 5 g green onions, thinly sliced 200 g green cabbage, thinly sliced 50 g carrots, finely shredded salt and pepper to taste

1. Mix first 4 ingredients together in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper.

2. Mix cabbage and carrots together in a large bowl and add the sauce and mix until combined. Let stand at least one hour.

• Bring on more flavour with an earthy cheddar, Applewood smoked cheddar, or a salty blue cheese. • The lettuce shouldn’t be too firm. It becomes hard to bite through and can end up pulling your burger apart. Bib lettuce or arugula are great choices. The lettuce also goes just below the burger to keep the juice from the burger from absorbing into the bun and causing it to fall apart.

Head to your butcher again to ask him to grind fresh pork meat to use in your burger. Good pork burgers use the meat from the shoulder as this has a good ratio of meat to fat for a juicy, flavourful burger. Season ground meat with black pepper, fresh sage and fresh thyme and hold off on the salt until you are ready to cook. Your pork burgers should be cooked to an internal temperature of 71º C as above. Brush your burger with your favourite barbeque sauce and let cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and let rest. Lightly toast and butter your bun, layer a leaf of lettuce on one half and place your burger on the lettuce. Add the coleslaw to the burger and top with the other half bun. culinairemagazine.ca

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The Carnivore’s Quaff: A Bitter Truth About Pairing By BJ OUDMAN

Tannins are often discussed, yet poorly understood, components of wine but when it comes to picking wines to go with meat, selecting a tannic wine is as obvious as milk and cookies or champagne and strawberries - one is more enjoyable with the other. Tannin is a flavonoid, a type of polyphenol produced from the skin, pits and stems of grapes. The amount of tannin in wine is determined by the grape variety, skin contact during fermentation and other winemaking techniques. They produce not only the taste of bitterness but also the characteristic of astringency in fullbodied red wines. The way they do this is to find the protein molecules in your saliva and “precipitate” them - basically knock them out of service, leaving your gums and tongue feeling puckered and dry. Tannins also act as a defender of plants - predators taste the astringency and don’t stick around for seconds!

The name tannin comes from the old practise of using plant extracts on animal hides to cure the leather. Tannins bind with other chemicals, especially proteins, and change their structure. Fat and protein in meat reduce the astringency of tannins by acting as a lubricant - think tea with cream, walnuts with blue cheese for the same chemical explanation. But the astringency of the tannin also reduces the sensation of fattiness of meat - a symbiotic relationship. When eating or drinking, your taste buds get used to the flavour, with the first bite being the most intense. With tannins however, the sense of astringency compounds with repeated sips - so eating meat while sipping on a tannic wine is ideal in preventing tannin build up, and maximizing your enjoyment of both the food and the wine. BJ Oudman is a physical therapist with a passion for food and wine. She travels the world when she has time between consulting in both physical therapy and wine.

For your next meat-centric wine pairing, consider: 1. Grape variety - choose fuller bodied, high tannin wines for best results, such as cabernet sauvignon, nebbiolo, or malbec

2. Younger vintages - ripe fruits and fresh tannins of recent vintages are great paired with finer cuts of meats, with marinades and rubs.

3. Decanting - tannins soften with age, while younger vintages may have astringent tannins. Quickly decanting or aerating a wine can soften those very young or powerful wines. 44 • May 2013


Open That Bottle By LINDA GARSON Photograph by INGRID KUENZEL

Jackie Cooke’s entire childhood evolved around horses, looking after them to earn money to compete in shows, and even hoping to compete in the Olympics. But at sixteen, Cooke started working in restaurants in her southern Ontario hometown of St. Catharines, bussing then serving, to save up for university. After four years of study, armed with an honours degree in Environmental Studies from Peterborough University, she had plans to be an environmental lawyer. But on graduating, Cooke moved to Toronto to work full time in restaurants while studying for her LSAT. “I was trying to pay down some of my loans, and working in better restaurants required a better knowledge of wine and food, so I started to get interested in wine”, she says. In 1998, she and a friend moved for a fun year in Whistler, and for Cooke, a job in one of Umberto Menghi’s restaurants. The restaurant closed for a month after winter, so they took a wine trip from the Okanagan to Santa Cruz, visiting 55 wineries and diligently taking notes. Cooke was hooked. After a month of camping (but showering before visiting Opus 1!), she came back to Whistler wanting to learn more about wine and running restaurants. Cooke joined the Quattro Group, but driving to Vancouver every week for three months through the winter, for her WSET Level 3 classes, was taking its toll. A position as assistant manager at Rainy City Grill afforded the opportunity to take her ISG diploma, but it was so demanding that after six months she

moved back to Vancouver as a server, to focus on her studies. When an internship came up at Tinhorn Creek in 2003, after finishing her studies, she became a cellar rat, living with the family in the house on the vineyard for three months, and planned to work a harvest in New Zealand afterwards. This was foiled when she was offered a sommelier position at the award-winning Barefoot Bistro in Whistler. Wine director, Kirk Shaw, was open to her completely reorganising the phone book of a wine list, and here she could try some of the world’s top wines. Her best moment was tasting a 1945 Mouton, #1 on the list of wines to try before you die. The ladies that bought it gave her a full glass of their $10,000 bottle. It was the Victory bottle and she kept it.

partners, opened “Petite” on 10th Avenue SW in 2008. They were amazed how inexpensive wine was here, and Cooke bought a special bottle of Champagne for Petite’s first anniversary - Pol Roger 1996. Sadly, it didn’t work out with the other partners, and in early 2009 they decided to start again from scratch, regrouping to get funds and a team together, and finally opening Avec Bistro in 2012. “But I still have that bottle that I’m holding on to, to cheers on our one year anniversary here which is coming up on May 22”, she adds. “It will definitely be a very special moment; not only will it be our one year anniversary, but we never got to celebrate that when we had Petite.”

Cooke loved the history aspect of wine and developed an obsession for Champagne. “Over the course of the years I worked there I sabred thousands of bottles of champagne”, she says, and in 2005, Cooke started buying magnums to share on Christmas Day with her now partner, Kirk Shaw. They moved to Calgary in 2006 to open a business and, with other culinairemagazine.ca

• 45


Soup Kitchen By CHEF THIERRY MERET

This is a tribute to the medieval kitchen, where “potage” originated. The name given to thick soup, or sometime porridge, in which meats and vegetables were stewed for hours, potages were usually served as a first course of a medieval feast!

Celeriac and Smoked Bacon Potage with Roasted Shallots and Rosemary

1. Place the bacon into a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and remove from the heat.Strain the bacon and refresh under cold water to clean from impurities. Reserve.

2. Serves 4-6 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 small onion, peeled and small diced 1 Tbs (15 mL) rosemary leaves 300 g smoked bacon diced 1 small celeriac root, peeled 1 L chicken stock 2 tsp (10 mL) kosher salt 2 tsp (10 mL) smoked black pepper, crushed 2 rosemary sprigs for garnish 2 russet potato, peeled and small diced 3 shallots, peeled and cut in half lengthwise (1/2 shallot per serving)

In a clean saucepan, place 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil and add the onions. Cook for 2 minutes on medium heat without browning. Add the rosemary leaves and cook for another 2 minutes on low heat to release fragrance.

3. Add the blanched bacon, mix well and allow cooking for another 5 minutes.

4. In the meantime, slice the peeled celeriac to ¼ inch thick. For garnish, cut the edges of 6 celeriac slices to get 6 squares. Reserve the squares.

5.

Roughly chop the remaining celeriac slices as well as the trimmings from the squares and add them to the onions and

bacon. Cook on medium heat for another 3-4 minutes.

6. Cut the potato into small squares and add to the soup along with the stock, kosher salt and pepper. Bring the soup to a simmer and cook on gentle heat for about 20 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

7. Heat up 1 Tbs (15 mL) of olive oil in a dry saucepan; add the sliced shallots (flat face down) and the reserved celeriac squares. Cook on gentle heat until golden brown, flip the vegetables over, then turn off the heat and season with a little salt and pepper. Reserve.

8. Blend the soup in a high-speed blender until completely smooth, and pour into serving bowls. Place one piece of caramelized shallot and celeriac in the centre; secure with a sprig of rosemary.

9. Serve immediately.

Chefs note: Blanching bacon, which was Julia Child’s favourite method of bacon preparation, is a great way to lower its salt content; it also mellows some of its “bacony” flavour for a more “porky” taste and, in the same process, washes away some of its fat content! 46 • May 2013


Beef Broth with Orzo Pasta and Spolumbo’s Spicy Italian sausage This is a superb, yet very simple soup that could remind you of an “Italian Wedding ”… with a twist! Orzo pasta, also called “risoni” for its rice like shape, is not only great in soup but will give new highs to a salad or even when baked in “Dauphinoise” style casserole… creamy goodness! Serves 4-6 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil 6 Spolumbo’s spicy Italian sausage 1 small onion, peeled and finely diced 1 L beef stock 1 L water 2 sprigs of thyme ½ cup (125 g) Orzo pasta 1 Tbs (15 mL) Kosher salt (for cooking the pasta) 4 sprigs of Italian parsley for garnish To taste salt and pepper

1. Bring water to a boil with the kosher

salt. Add the orzo pasta and keep stirring until the water returns to a boil.

2. Lower the heat and simmer the orzo

for about 6 to 8 minutes or until the pasta feels Al Dente to the bite. Strain the pasta into a colander and refresh under cold water. Reserve.

3. In the meantime, heat the olive oil

on high heat in a soup pot large enough to hold all the sausages. When the oil is hot, turn the heat to medium and add the sausages. Cook on both sides for 1 to 2 minutes to a nice golden brown colour. Remove and reserve.

Chef Thierry Meret’s understanding of simple seasonal ingredients and classic French culinary techniques has earned him 4. Add the onions to the same soup pot and cook for about 2 to 3 minutes on international recognition. His Interactive gentle heat until soft. Culinary Centre opened late 2012, see www.cuisineandchateau.com

5. Add the beef stock and the sprigs of

thyme, and return the sausages to the pan. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for about 10 minutes.

6. Remove the sausages and the thyme sprigs. Slice the sausages and reserve.

7. Add the cooked orzo to the broth and gently warm the pasta, without boiling, for 2 minutes.

8. Spoon orzo beef broth into soup

bowls and arrange slices of sausage in the centre.

9. Garnish with Italian parsley and serve immediately.

culinairemagazine.ca

• 47


The Hoppiest Beers On Earth: India Pale Ales By DAVID NUTTALL AND MEAGHAN Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;BRIEN

India Pale Ales (IPAs) are punchy, bold brews that are not for the faint at heart. What started as a beer concocted out of necessity has become the favourite of craft brewers all over the world. This well-hopped and bitter beer style can be deceitful with its pale copper to medium amber colour, yet it complements spicy dishes and meat perfectly. IPAs have a history dating back to the 19th century in England, but are now reinvented and recreated in very different ways. The original creations were pale ales (so named because they were brewed with pale malts) that used additional hops to act as a preservative so the beer could survive the warm conditions and tumultuous shipping of long ocean voyages. Due to modern technology, the length of travel is no longer an issue in the preservation of beer, but the evolution of IPAs continues in the craft beer realm; some with levels of hops that will knock your socks off!

48 â&#x20AC;˘ May 2013


The characteristics of India Pale Ale vary between the three recognized styles: English, American, and Imperial, each of which exude different flavour profiles, all depending on the amount and type of hops used. English IPAs are brewed with English hops that lend earthy, citrus and spicy notes. These IPAs are crisp, smooth and mediumlight to medium-bodied with a subtle hop character and bitterness. Classic English IPAs can range anywhere from 40 to 60 International Bitterness Units (IBUs). If you’re new to IPAs, an English style is a good place to start, with a more dominant malt profile that balances out the hops nicely and produces toffee or caramel notes. The finish lingers with pleasant bitterness that is not too powerful. Some classic English IPAs to try are Fuller’s, Samuel Smith’s, Meantime’s, and St. Austell’s Proper Job. Pair these with a medium spice chili, Chinese food, or a curry dish. IPAs are so varied and work so well with spicy food, they should be mandatory in every licensed Oriental, Indian and Latin American restaurant.

When IPAs were first brewed in North America, they either imported the hops from England or used the English varietals that were planted locally, resulting in a very English style IPA. Most East Coast IPAs maintain this style to this day, such as Brooklyn Brewery’s East India Pale Ale. Canadian IPAs also tend toward this style (not counting a certain Haligonian IPA), although recently there has been a tremendous growth in American IPAs. When Americans started populating the northwest states in the mid 1800s, they found the volcanic soil, abundant water and sunshine were perfect for growing hops, so much so, that today the Yakima and Willamette Valleys are home to the second largest supply of hops in the world behind Germany. Yet, it’s not just the amount of hops that this area produces, it’s the variety. Since the 1970s, breeding programs have been producing hop varieties that helped propel the craft beer revolution. There are now over 80 hop varieties used in brewing; some bred as aromatic hops, and some used

ROSMARINUS PULLED PORK Take your senses to the next level Ingredients: 5-6 lb pork shoulder (pork butt), netting removed and trimmed of excess fat Rub: 2 tsp. mustard powder 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 tbsp. ground black pepper 2 tsp. coriander, toasted 1 tsp. cumin seeds, toasted 1 tbsp. chili powder 1 tbsp. dark brown sugar 1/4 tsp. cinnamon 1 tbsp. kosher salt 2-3 tbsp. olive oil 1 vidalia onion, sliced 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 1-2 cups low sodium chicken broth 2 341ml bottles of Big Rock Rosmarinus Ale 2 sprigs of rosemary

Sauce: 1/2 cup ketchup 2 tbsp. whole grain Dijon mustard 4 tbsp. Worcestershire 3 tbsp. cider vinegar 1/4 cup dark brown sugar 1 tsp. liquid smoke

Directions: Combine rub ingredients and pat all over pork. Let sit at room temperature for one hour. In a skillet, brown pork on all sides in olive oil. Place pork in a slow cooker on high. Add the onions, garlic, rosemary sprigs, Rosmarinus Ale and enough chicken broth to cover 3/4 of the pork. When the pork begins to simmer, approximately one hour, turn cooker to low. Cook for a total of 8 hours. Remove pork from slow cooker. Tent for 10 minutes and then shred pork, using two forks. Drain liquid from slow cooker and return the shredded pork and the sauce to it. Cook on low for 30 min. Serve on ciabatta bread topped with green onions and grated cheddar cheese. www.bigrockbeer.com culinairemagazine.ca

• 49


for bittering. It is in the American IPA where the hop variety shines. Not only do these new breed of hops produce beers that have more bitterness (10 to 20 or more IBUs) than their British counterparts, but they often are more citrusy, floral, piney, and fruity. Imperial or Double IPAs (IIPA or DIPA) are the last recognized style, and are even hoppier, with up to triple digit IBUs and double digit alcohol by volume. The names of these ales often reflect the amount of hops in these beers. Coronado’s Idiot IPA and Lagunita’s Sonoma Farmhouse Hop Stoopid may have ridiculous amounts of hops, but are nicely balanced by both astringency and alcohol so that the bitterness does not overwhelm the beer. With the growth in popularity of IPAs, there has been the inevitable development of other and blended IPA styles, such as Howe Sound’s Devil’s Elbow India Pale Ale, made with both English and American hops. Because IPAs are all about the hops, the industry revolving around the breeding, growing and cultivation of hops has also grown. So much so, when talking about beer, the word hop has expanded beyond being just a noun and is now an adjective and a verb (as in to flavour; not to jump, like a bunny). Although there are only three recognized styles of IPAs (for now), the incredible variety of hops now available to the brewer allows for a marvellous array of IPAs. It is interesting to note that many of the beloved hops popular in American IPAs, were first bred less than 40 years ago, and some much more recently than that. Over the last ten years, the American IPA has been not only the largest selling beer style in North America (by more than 50% over the next largest seller), but also the fastest growing style as well. Americans love their IPAs, yet it is only the last couple of years that Canadians have begun to notice them. This is reflected not only in the growth of imported American IPAs here, but also in the number of Canadian craft breweries producing these beers. Victoria’s Phillips Brewing Company have made a virtual cottage industry of American IPAs, showcasing distinct hops in individual beers. Look for their Mixed IPA Hopbox. It’s clear the ever-expanding realm of IPAs is here to stay, fed by new and current hop varieties, and restricted only by the imaginations of brewmasters the world over. 

50 • May 2013


Meg’s Double IPA Chili: Serves 8-10 people

IPA (India Pale Ale) is the perfect complement to spicy dishes; either accompanied for sipping, or as an ingredient in cooking. Extra lean ground beef 1 medium onion, diced 2 green peppers, chopped 1 - 199ml can of corn, drained and rinsed 1 can of mixed beans, drained and rinsed 1 - 398ml can of baked beans 2 - 540ml cans of Spicy Red Pepper cut stewed tomatoes 1 - 284ml can of mushrooms, drained and rinsed 1 jalapeno, diced 350 ml of IPA (Tree Brewing Company’s Hop Head Double IPA or other hoppy beer) Salt & pepper to taste 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper Ground coriander seed to taste Chili powder to taste 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) Italian seasoning Pinch of cinnamon 4 cloves of garlic, diced

1. Heat frying pan with a tablespoon of olive oil

and add onion, two cloves of minced garlic and beer. Sauté on medium head until reduced, about 15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in another frying pan, cook ground

beef on medium to medium high with chili powder, salt and pepper, jalapeno, coriander, Italian seasoning, remaining two cloves of minced garlic, and cayenne pepper until just browned.

3. Transfer cooked beef to a large pot and add in the onion, garlic and beer reduction.

4. Add the mixed beans, baked beans, corn,

mushrooms, green peppers, canned tomatoes, cinnamon, and stir.

5. Cook covered at medium low for three hours, stirring frequently.

6. Serve in dishes; top with shredded cheese, a

dollop of sour cream, and a pint of IPA to wash it down. culinairemagazine.ca

• 51


White Wine With Red Meat? by HEATHER KINGSTON

The old imperatives of red wine with red meat and white wine with fish and poultry, are long gone. The variety of ingredients and cuisines at our fingertips can be multi-ethnic and multi-regional, blurring the lines on what wine should go with what food. Master of Wine, Tim Hanni, has done a lot of research into food and wine pairing, and has an uncluttered approach, “If a person likes white zinfandel or moscato with their steak, turkey or seafood, that’s what they should have.” His views are somewhat controversial. Tim’s approach has turned traditional conventions around 180º. Where food and wine pairing is concerned, you will have to determine your preferences. When in doubt, try pairing a region’s food with its wine. Especially in Europe, the food and its wine have a long history together on the table and often work in harmony with each other. But don’t rely on your memory too much; it is easy to fool, as many of us have memories of a glorious wine and food pairing somewhere like Tuscany or Provence, only to come home and find the match wasn’t quite as exciting as we remember. It may not be quite the same, but it will still be enjoyable.

52 • May 2013

There are some important factors when pairing food with wine. They should be complementary; the wine should not overshadow the food and the food should stand up to the wine. There should be only one celebrity at the table. If your dish is complex - pair a simple wine. If your wine is very special, you may want to keep the ingredients of the dish simple and let the wine take centre stage. When pairing white wine with red meat there are principles that can be followed. The weight of the dish is important. Heavy, creamy dishes work with a fullbodied wine. Intensity of ingredients can influence the wine choice. Often, it is not the protein in the dish or the base ingredient that dictates the wine choice, but the most flavourful ingredients. Quite often the strongest ingredients in the dish will be the last taste in your mouth. Acidity in wine and food will impact the overall experience. Acidic

wine invigorates the palate and can create balance with fatty dishes. The wine cuts the fat, creating a better food and wine combination. Pairing white wine with red meat isn’t hard, but to get you started, here are a few suggestions: Heather received her International Sommelier Guild Diploma in November 2007. She has been busy ever since, sharing her passion for wine.


Fillet Mignon with Morel Mushrooms in Cream Sauce is a great example of a dish with weight. Fillet mignon is a superior cut of meat. The mushroom cream sauce is the dominating flavour. By cutting the fat in the sauce with a California chardonnay, there is a nice balance between flavours. The bigbodied structure of the wine will complement the rich sauce.

Grgich Hills Estate 2010 Chardonnay, Napa Valley Here is a wine to match the greatest chardonnays of Burgundy. It has rich tropical fruit, with great weight, but without too much oak. The acidity creates equilibrium between the wine and the cream sauce. $56 The beef in Pot au Feu is boiled in a cooking liquid, therefore the texture of the beef will be more delicate and the meat paler in colour. The meat loses some of its ability to soften tannins, lessening the need for red wine.

Paul Zinck 2010 Pinot Gris, Alsace, France Flavours of peaches, apricots and white pepper will match the savoury herbs in the dish. The sumptuous mouth feel and lower acid will balance the sensory experience. $21 Beef and Broccoli Stir-Fry with Chinese Five Spice and Hoisin Sauce will need a full-bodied wine. Pairing a Chinese beef dish with white wine is more matching with the spices used. Pinot gris can work here, but try something a little different such as rousanne.

Truchard 2011 Rousanne, Napa Valley, USA, Rousanne is usually found in the Rhone Valley, France. This white wine is made in Napa with conditions that work for this challenging grape. The wine is highly aromatic, with honey, peaches and a vanilla undertone. Its potency is what makes Rousanne a suitable red meat wine. $25

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Steak Tartare is chopped beef mixed with a variety of ingredients, such as anchovy, mustard and onions, and can pair well with gruner veltliner and chardonnay. The light taste of the meat will be a carrier for all the other savoury ingredients. These wines are able to stand up to the challenge.

Rabl 2010 Gruner Veltliner, Austria, The Gruner Veltliner grape is the grape of Austria and made to pair with food. It can be medium to high in acid, with a spicy, musky aroma. There are flavours of white pepper edging into juicy fruit, providing strength to match the food. $21

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â&#x20AC;˘ 53


In a world where more than 90% of wine is consumed within 48 hours of purchase, the idea of laying a wine down for years may seem exhausting to some. Premium wines can take decades to reach their optimum consumption date but many people do not have the patience, never mind the pocketbook, to drink fine wines at their peak. In many cases it can be just as satisfying to try those estate’s second labels, which are often ready to drink much sooner. Second labels are by no means second fiddle. In many cases they are simply a means of offering a similar wine experience at a fraction of the price.

Second Label Wines, First Rate Values By STEVE GOLDSWORTHY

The concept of second labels began with the French in the late 18th Century, born out of a matter of economics. Bordeaux producers were making world-class wines under their estate labels for generations. Traditionally, a wine maker was at the mercy of Mother Nature from year to year; they would harvest their vines and vinify the whole lot. If the vintage was great, the wine would shine, if the vintage was bad, the wine would suffer. But even in bad years, there would be pockets of the vineyard producing excellent wine, so rather than waste this wine, or roll it into estate wines and bring down quality, producers began bottling these so-called “second class” grapes under a second label. Besides saving the wine, winemakers were able to offer a reasonably priced alternative to their estate wines. Soon, everyone was getting into the act, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande shipped its 1874 vintage of its first second vin, La Réserve de la Comtesse, to the 1890 World’s Fair in Moscow. Château Léoville-Las Cases began producing its Clos du Marquis in 1904. Four years later, Château Margaux began offering its Pavillon Rouge. After several weak vintages Château Mouton Rothschild created Mouton Cadet in 1930. In the case of most true second labels, the wine is made in the same way and under the same conditions as the estate wines. Often the second vins are made from younger vines or less than choice blocks of vineyards. They are also often aged in used barrels. Generally, while second label wines are still of a high grade, they are considered by their parent wineries as wines with less structure or finesse and meant to be drunk younger than their premium offerings. In this regard, they are often more approachable in their youth than their heavy-hitting brothers. Today second label wines can be found throughout the world. But it should be noted that many producers play fast and loose with the term second label, particularly in the new world. Many wines produced by some big guns are simply introductory wines,

54 • May 2013


and may bear little in common with their high-end kin. They are often blends of sourced fruit and may not be produced by the same winemaker. Some are not even made at the same winery. While they offer a value-driven alternative, they are not true second labels. In France’s Rhone Valley, a Cote-du-Rhone is a fine first step toward Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Chateau Beaucastel’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape can fetch as much as $95, while their Cote-duRhone goes for about $35. Italians would consider a Ripasso or a Rosso di Montalcino an inexpensive alternative to an Amarone and Brunello respectively. Torre del Falasco produces a gorgeous Amarone at $70. Their Ripasso or “poor man’s Amarone” is less than half the price at $23. In California, winemakers have taken the art of second labels to new heights in recent years. On the high-end, Dominus Estate wine from Napa can run you $160, while their Napanook, a gorgeous Bordeaux blend, goes for around $80. The Darioush cabernet sauvignon has achieved cult status among wine collectors and drinkers, commanding a price tag around $120. Second label, Caravan, is an opulent, chewy 100% estate-grown blend of cab, merlot, petit verdot and malbec ($60). A new wine that always impresses is Flying Nymph, a lush and juicy

blend of syrah, mourvedre and Grenache, easily had for $24, while first label Cass Estate grown cabernet sits on the shelf for $45. Paul Hobbs is certainly no stranger to high scores and award-winning wines; the demand for his wines has always exceeded supply. The elegant and understated Napa Valley Cabernet retails for $90+, while the newer, and easily approachable second label, CrossBarn Napa cabernet, costs just over half. Other regions have their own second label wines that rival other estate wines in a similar price point. Priorat, in Spain, produces world-renowned red wines of spectacular structure and rich complexity. Their price tag can be pretty rich too. The top end wine from Priorat producer Vall Llach can be found for about $100. Their second label, Idus is priced at $65. But it is their third label, the Vall Llach Embruix that offers real value at $36. In South Africa, Boekenhoutskloof is an award-winning producer of complex French-style wines that fetch upwards of $70 a bottle. Yet their second label, Porcupine Ridge goes for as little as $15. The cabernet sauvignon is an excellent house wine, suitable for barbeques and tangy pizza. Canada’s Okanagan Valley has been producing some impressive second labels too. Black Hills Estate Wineries’ award-winning Bordeaux-Style Nota Bene is priced about $65. Last year they introduced a delightful second label, Cellar Hand. Punch Down Red is a zesty blend of syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon that retails for around $30. Steve Goldsworthy is a freelance writer, children’s author and screenwriter and filmmaker. He has spent 17 years “learning” about wine while running Britannia Wine Merchants.

Here are the price comparisons of five First Growth Bordeaux and their Second Label wines:

First Growth Bordeaux Château Latour $1,583 Château Margaux $1,672 Château Mouton-Rothschild $1,640 Château Haut-Brion $1,494 Château Lafite Rothschild $1,934

Second Label Les Forts de Latour $254 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux $200 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild $157 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion $219 Carruades de Lafite-Rothschild $343

**(All prices in Canadian dollars, based on average price listed on winesearcher.com for 2009 vintage) culinairemagazine.ca

• 55


Bring On The Meat! By TOM FIRTH

The adage of serving red wine with red meat is a helpful place to start when pairing wine with Calgary’s summer grilling season. Almost any red wine will pair with a red meat dish and the reasons they work so well are the tannin and acid in them, which balance protein and fat respectively. Here are a few suggestions to help you find the perfect wine for your grilled goodness.

Burgundy, is an easy, go-to region for almost any dish. Pinot Noir (the red grape of Burgundy) is blessed with lighter tannins, higher acids and a lot of complexity. These wines (once you start spending the big bucks) can sometimes be confusing since each vineyard and village seem to produce a wine that is slightly different from every other vineyard and village. An exciting region and grape, pinot noir is also produced around the world with better examples outside of France coming from the cooler climates such as New Zealand, Oregon, Canada, and parts of Australia. Perfect for when you want a wine that will complement your food and not overwhelm it. Merlot is still fighting a reputation as a wine with not much substance, though in recent years, there’s many excellent structured, powerful, and age-worthy merlots to be found. Generally used as a blending grape in Bordeaux and similar red blends (bringing rounder, juicier fruits without the tannins), when grown to be a standalone grape, it’s everything you want in a good red wine. Tannins are rarely over the top, but once you reach $20+, you’ll find wines that age well for 2-5 years. Good merlots are getting easy to find, but the Okanagan, California, Australia, and South Africa are a great start. Malbec is Argentina’s flagship varietal and they have had more success with it than anywhere else on Earth. The trend for malbec is for better sites and less oak, so outside of the entry-level malbec you don’t see so many chocolate/vanilla fruit bombs. The best are floral, spicy, and often have this mild musty or herbal character that complements velvety black fruits. There are plenty of protein-friendly tannins in every malbec though, that make even the biggest steak weep with joy. Outside 56 • April May 2013 2013


of Argentina, quality malbec is found in Cahors, France but not in many other places. Zinfandel is a perfect wine for barbecue pairings. Somehow it still seems to be making amends for the success of white zinfandel, but good (red) zinfandel is miles away from its pasty companion. The best zins are perfumed and show brambly fruits, though bottles picked at the perfect ripeness may show a hint of blueberry on the nose. Zins are fruit driven and spicy, and tend to have

slightly higher alcohol. As their acidity complements a little fat on your cut or slightly oilier side dishes, this wine is the meat lover’s friend. Priorat is a region that is still making inroads with wine lovers. Located in the east of Spain near Barcelona in Cataluña, the wines are typically red and made with grenache and carignan grapes, though in recent decades some international varieties such as cabernet and syrah have had success. Old vines, low yields, and hot climates coupled with

poor soils mean there will never be too much Priorat on the market, but these big reds are perfect for the barbecue, and on the patio as you anticipate that Alberta beef. Tom Firth writes and consults on wine and is the contributing Drinks Editor for Culinaire magazine. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine

Wine Picks Faiveley 2008 Bourgogne “Paulee” A little lighter, the ripe fruits, sleek acids, and general “panache” make this a stunning pinot for a very good price - with just enough tannin presence to steer it towards seriousness. Perfect with duck, but very good with beef or even salmon. Around $17

Sterling Vineyards 2009 Napa Valley Merlot Not to be confused with the entry level merlot (though it’s still very good) the one with the silver label hits well above its weight. Big ripe fruits, good acidity, age worthy tannins, and surprising complexity from start to finish. $28

Punto Final 2011 Malbec Classico, Mendoza, Argentina A great deal in malbec, everything you want is right here. Big fruits, a little spice and floral character, and some big tannins-mercifully softened with some oak presence. A “buy and drink” wine, it’s the right price to bring to any barbecue or have a few in hand…just in case. $13

Frog’s Leap 2010 Napa Valley Zinfandel What I like about the approach of Frog’s Leap in their zinfandel is how they manage to get all the ripeness of the fruits perfect along with the floral aromas, spiciness you crave, and just that hint of blueberries. It also keeps well in the cellar. $33

Miguel Torres 2010 “Perpetual” Priorat, Spain A classic Priorat blend, this one isn’t cheap, but balances out rustic charm and some good fruits. Lots of coffee, dried fruits, and cedar tones still show well, but this is going to really start shining with about 5 or more years in the cellar. $49 culinairemagazine.ca

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Menu Gems We asked our writers to share their favourite meat dishes in our city’s restaurants…

Broek Acres Pork Belly Lettuce Wraps - Anju

Who says lettuce is only for salads? Wrapping up some tender, marinated pork belly with kimchi and thai basil in a leaf of butter lettuce here is always a home run. Couple this with a few shots of soju and I’m in heaven. Dan Clapson

Classic Deluxe Cheeseburger - Buchanan’s

I rarely pass up the great beef or game dishes in Calgary, but one dish I rarely pass up an opportunity to enjoy would have to be the Classic Deluxe Cheeseburger at Buchanan’s. It’s so good, that you have to talk it up when dining with out of town guests or lovers of a fine burger. Tom Firth

Rack Of Lamb Chops - Bolero

Brazilian BBQ is a great way to satiate your carnivore. The family enjoys Bolero, part of Smuggler’s on MacLeod Trail. The food just keeps coming with roving servers carrying large skewers, and you help yourself to a large, fresh salad bar plus sautéed greens and feijoida. Try the grilled pineapple between bits of linguica sausages, picanha or bacon-wrapped chicken. Our favourite is rack of lamb chops, all grilled over wood fires. Fred Malley

Bison Short Ribs -- Open Range

They are are always perfect. Braised in an ancho chili bbq sauce and served on a mountain of creamy polenta, it satisfies my inner carnivore. But I also have a weakness for anything from my friend Dave’s Big Green Egg - whether it came from a steer, a pig or a wild beast - the egg turns it into a meaty masterpiece! No one at the table can ever refrain from seconds! BJ Oudman

58 • May 2013

Blood Sausage - Charcut

When I crave meat, I crave blood sausage (aka black pudding or boudin noir). This meaty tube of goodness has the texture of chocolate cake and the essence of concentrated pork. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find on menus. The best locally produced item was Charcut’s at the recent “Down and Dirty 2” pop-up dinner. Keep your eyes peeled at pop-ups and other special events for this tube of magical meat. Gabriel Hall

Beef Jerky - Cowtown Jerky

Of course Calgary Meats & Deli in Bridgeland has any cut of meat and game you can think of if that’s what you’re looking for, but I like to pop in for the house-made Cowtown Jerky, beef jerky. Spiced just right, these meaty treats aren’t too salty or a sticky mess and you won’t lose a tooth trying to chew through them. Cory Knibutat

Noble Farms Duck Cassoulet - Yellow Door Bistro

My recent discovery. The dish features duck two ways - duck leg confit and sous-vide duck breast. Both preparations are tender and juicy, and as if that’s not enough, the cassoulet is also “garnished” with a piece of pork belly and pork crackling! I must admit my favourite part of the texture contrast between the crispy skin on the pork belly and its fatty, melt-in-your-mouth meat, but the buttery white beans come a close second. Vincci Tsui

All the meat dishes - Longview Steakhouse

The lamb, the filet mignon or any meat dish cooked at the unassuming Longview Steakhouse. This little treasure is definitely worth the drive out. From the exterior you’d never guess how wonderfully prepared the dishes inside are. Janine Eva Trotta


A D V E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E

With a glass of Woodford Reserve in hand, you are about to enjoy a quality bourbon-the unique result of skill, patience, and tradition. TheÊspiritÊknownÊasÊBourbonÊ canÊbeÊproducedÊanywhereÊinÊtheÊ UnitedÊStatesÊalthoughÊvirtuallyÊ allÊof ÊitÊisÊproducedÊinÊtheÊstateÊ of ÊKentucky.ÊInÊfact,ÊUSAÊTodayÊ recentlyÊreportedÊthatÊthereÊareÊ moreÊbarrelsÊof ÊbourbonÊagingÊinÊ KentuckyÊthanÊpeopleÊresidingÊinÊ theÊStateÊof ÊKentucky. WhatÊmakesÊKentuckyÊtheÊhomeÊ of ÊqualityÊbourbon?ÊAnyÊdistillerÊ of ÊnoteÊwillÊtellÊyouÊthatÊyouÊcanÕtÊ makeÊgoodÊwhiskyÊwithoutÊgoodÊ water.ÊTheÊaquiferÊsupplyingÊ centralÊKentuckyÕsÊBluegrassÊ regionÊsitsÊonÊlimestoneÊbedsÊwhichÊ removesÊmanyÊimpuritiesÊsuchÊasÊ ironÊandÊaddsÊmineralsÊsuchÊasÊ magnesiumÊandÊcalcium-longÊ creditedÊforÊtheÊrenownÊof ÊtheÊ strongÊandÊfastÊthoroughbredÊ horsesÊwhichÊKentuckyÊisÊalsoÊ knownÊfor.Ê UnderÊtheÊdirectionÊof ÊMasterÊ DistillerÊChrisÊMorris,ÊWoodfordÊ ReserveÊisÊaÊsmallÊbatchÊbourbon,Ê proudlyÊclaimingÊtoÊbeÊtheÊoldest,Ê smallest,ÊandÊslowestÊworkingÊ

KentuckyÊdistillery.ÊTheÊhigh-ryeÊ sourÊmashÊisÊslowlyÊfermentedÊforÊ upÊtoÊsevenÊdaysÊinÊsmallÊvats,Ê before flowing to the copper pot stillsÊimportedÊfromÊScotland.Ê TripleÊdistilled,ÊtheÊdistillateÊmovesÊ toÊtheÊtoastedÊandÊcharredÊwhiteÊ oakÊbarrels.ÊFirstÊuseÊbarrels-itÕsÊ the law. Woodford only fills about 100ÊbarrelsÊaÊweekÊwhichÊwillÊthenÊ beÊagedÊfromÊ6-8ÊyearsÊuntilÊtheÊ complex aromas and flavours are readyÊtoÊbeÊenjoyed.Ê YouÕllÊbeÊgladÊthatÊtheÊbarrelsÊusedÊ in Woodford Reserve were first toastedÊonÊtheÊinsideÊtoÊcaramelizeÊ theÊnaturalÊsugarsÊinÊtheÊoakÊbeforeÊ beingÊcharredÊtoÊcreateÊtheÊporousÊ surfaceÊforÊtheÊwhiskeyÊtoÊ interactÊwith.ÊOverÊtheÊyearsÊ gainingÊcolour,Êvanilla,ÊandÊallÊtheÊ otherÊcomplexitiesÊasÊwithÊeachÊ passingÊseasonÊtheÊchangesÊinÊ humidityÊandÊtemperatureÊdrawÊ theÊspiritÊinÊandÊoutÊof ÊthoseÊ porousÊsurfacesÊuntilÊitÕsÊ determinedÊbyÊtheÊmasterÊdistillerÊ thatÊitÊisÊready.

WOODFORD RESERVE. CRAFT BOURBON. SERVING SUGGESTIONS ToÊenjoyÊtheÊrewardsÊof ÊthisÊ patience,ÊpourÊaboutÊanÊounceÊ intoÊaÊrockÊglassÊandÊnoteÊitsÊ colour,ÊthenÊrollÊtheÊspiritÊ aroundÊinÊtheÊglassÊtoÊopenÊupÊ theÊaromasÊandÊtakeÊthreeÊshortÊ sniffsÊratherÊthanÊoneÊlongÊoneÊtoÊ betterÊenjoyÊtheÊmultipleÊnuances.Ê Then, take your first small sip, lettingÊitÊcoatÊyourÊtongueÊbeforeÊ swallowing. Think of the flavours andÊtexturesÊof ÊthisÊqualityÊspiritÊ inÊyourÊglass.ÊRepeat.Ê ForÊthoseÊthatÊmayÊnotÊenjoyÊ bourbonÊneatÊorÊonÊtheÊrocks,Ê mayÊweÊsuggestÊtakingÊtheÊedgeÊ off ÊtheÊsummerÊheatÊwithÊtheÊ iconicÊMintÊJulep?ÊTheÊclassicÊ

MintÊJulepÊisÊcomprisedÊof ÊonlyÊ 4Êingredients.ÊBourbon,ÊmintÊleaf,Ê sugar,ÊandÊiceÊ(typicallyÊcrushedÊ orÊshaved),.ÊTheÊpreciseÊmethodÊ mayÊvary,ÊbutÊtypicallyÊtheÊmintÊ willÊbeÊmuddledÊorÊbruisedÊtoÊ release flavours. A simple syrup canÊalsoÊbeÊpurchasedÊratherÊthanÊ madeÊfromÊscratch.Ê TraditionÊcallsÊforÊitÊtoÊbeÊservedÊ inÊaÊpewterÊorÊsilverÊcup,ÊbutÊforÊ most,ÊaÊtallÊold-fashionedÊstyleÊ glassÊwillÊdoÊtheÊtrick.Ê Ê

CRAFT CAREFULLY. DRINK RESPONSIBLY.

Mint Julep

1 cup sugar 1 cup water 12 sprigs mint 3 ounces Woodford Reserve 1 sprig mint

For each serving, fill a silver, copper,Êpewter,ÊorÊstonewareÊ julepÊcupÊwithÊbrokenÊorÊcrushedÊ ice.ÊAddÊ2ÊtablespoonsÊof ÊtheÊ mintÊsyrupÊandÊtheÊbourbon,ÊandÊ stirÊgentlyÊuntilÊtheÊcupÊisÊfrosted.Ê GarnishÊwithÊaÊsprigÊof Êmint.

BringÊtheÊwaterÊandÊsugarÊtoÊaÊ boilÊinÊaÊsaucepanÊandÊboilÊforÊ 5Êminutes.ÊDoÊnotÊstir.ÊPourÊoverÊ theÊ12ÊsprigsÊof ÊmintÊinÊaÊ heatproof Êbowl,ÊgentlyÊcrushingÊ theÊmintÊwithÊtheÊbackÊof ÊaÊ spoon.ÊChill,ÊcoveredÊforÊ8-10Ê hours.ÊStrain,ÊdiscardingÊtheÊ mint.ÊYouÊmayÊstoreÊtheÊsyrupÊinÊ aÊrefrigeratorÊÊforÊseveralÊweeksÊ preparingÊindividualÊjulepsÊasÊ desired.Ê

WoodfordÊReserve¨ÊKentuckyÊStraightÊBourbonÊWhiskey,Ê45.2%ÊAlcoholÊ byÊVolume,ÊTheÊWoodfordÊReserveÊDistillery,ÊVersailles,ÊKYÊ©20XX culinairemagazine.ca

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From Bardstown And Back Again: A Bourbon Tale By ANDREW FERGUSON

60 • May 2013


Joined by others from Ireland, England, Wales and Germany, these new immigrants established vast new counties such as Bourbon in the 1780’s. Named in honour of the French Royal Family, by the 19th Century it had been carved up into smaller counties, one of which retained the name Old Bourbon. The principal port on the Ohio River from where the whiskey was shipped was in the county of Old Bourbon, and as such the barrels were stenciled with the port of origin. The whisky from Old Bourbon was principally made with corn, and distinct from the rye-based whiskies made in the other states. Over time, the name “Bourbon” became synonymous with this corn-based whiskey, and the rest as they say, is history.

The story of bourbon whiskey is the story of immigrants and the bounty of America’s open frontiers. In the wake of the failed first Jacobite Rebellion in 1725, and their final defeat at Culloden Moor in 1746, While all bourbon whiskey must be made in the United States, all American peasants from the Scottish Highlands began emigrating en mass to the American colonies. Many of these hardy, independent Scots populated the Appalachian Mountains and after the American Revolution, spread further west into the open lands beyond. Poor, but selfsufficient, they brought with them their Presbyterian faith, their work ethic, and the knowledge of whisky making. In America they found abundant fertile land and a new grain with which to distill, corn.

whiskey is not necessarily bourbon. Bourbon can be produced anywhere in the United States as long as it meets certain criteria. The first and most important is its mash bill, or mix of grains, which must contain at least 51% corn with the remainder being a mixture of wheat, rye and or barley. While corn is an excellent grain for fermenting and distilling into a spirit it lacks some of the enzymes required to get the ball rolling, requiring an amount of either malted rye or barley. The mash bill of each distillery is different, and will influence the flavour profile of their bourbon. Today most bourbon distilleries employ a sour mash process whereby a small amount of the previous batch’s mash is held back and mixed with the current one. It is believed this helps ensure a more consistent fermentation, and a balanced pH level. The milled grains

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are mixed with hot water to remove the starches and sugars. This mash is then fermented with yeast to produce wash, a crude form of beer. The wash is then distilled to produce a clear spirit between 65 and 80% alcohol. While traditionally copper pot stills would have been the norm, many distilleries now make use of more efficient column or continuous stills. The new-make spirit is then filled into charred American oak barrels at no more than 62.5%. For straight bourbon, these barrels can only be used once, even if the whiskey is the minimum 2 years of age. This regulation did not come about as a means of protecting the whiskey’s style, but had more to do with protecting jobs in the lumber and coopering industries. The result is that the oak, always first use, rapidly imparts both colour and character to the maturing spirit. Even more so than the sour mash process or the mandate of 51% corn, it is the oak policy that has the most significant influence on the style of bourbon whiskey. The leftover barrels are sold on to the Scotch, Irish, Japanese and Canadian whisky industries, as well as producers of Tequila and rum to mature their spirits. The forefathers of Bourbon were a colourful lot, including the likes of Evan Williams and Elijah Craig. Evan Williams established a commercial distillery in Bardstown Kentucky in 1783, distilling grains purchased from local farmers. Today the world’s second bestselling Bourbon is named in his honour. The brand has two variants available in Alberta, Evan Williams Black Label ($27) and Evan Williams Single Barrel ($49). The Black Label is a standard mixing Bourbon, while the single barrel 62 • May 2013

is a vintage product, usually 10 years of age, always bottled from a single cask. Both the vintage, and more importantly, the single cask nature of this Bourbon mean that it can vary enormously from batch to batch.

single barrel bourbon. The whiskey is named for Colonel Albert B. Blanton, who was a pioneer of modern bourbon production, serving for 55 years at the distillery.

Elijah Craig ($40) is a 12 year old bourbon named for the mythical Baptist minister who by some accounts was the first to produce the first true Kentucky bourbon. Craig established a distillery around 1789, by which time there were already hundreds of other distillers, including small farmers, producing corn-based whiskey in Bourbon County. Elijah Craig today is produced by Heaven Hill distillery.

There are three different expressions in the Blanton’s line: Blanton’s Single Barrel ($61), Blanton’s Special Reserve ($71) and Blanton’s Gold Edition ($94). As with other single barrel bourbons the Blanton’s offerings will vary from batch to batch, though the mash bill of corn, rye and malted barley remains consistent. The single barrel is bottled at 46.5% and is spicy with notes of clove and orange. The Special Reserve is an entry level single barrel bourbon at a lower proof of 40%, and a lighter more floral profile. The Gold Edition is bottled at 51.5%, and is a richer, full flavoured offering with enhanced spice, citrus and dark chocolate fudge flavours.

Buffalo Trace ($40) and Eagle Rare ($56) are the flagship bourbons of the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky. The distillery, originally founded in 1776, has been known by many names including George T. Stagg Distillery. The name Buffalo Trace is a reference to the site the distillery was founded on, an old river crossing where bison had forded the Kentucky River for millennia. The standard Buffalo Trace is a 10 year old bourbon made with a heavy corn component to its mash bill, and this comes out in the taste, along with sugars and dark spice. Eagle Rare 10 Year shows the same spice and sugars, but less corn; overall it is a more fruity and floral style of bourbon. Buffalo Trace produces other bourbons including the Blanton’s range, which includes the first

Maker’s Mark caused a stir on Twitter this year when they proposed to lower the strength of the bourbon in order to ease supply concerns. By lowering the strength by just a few percentage points they hoped to free up more production. The resulting social media backlash prompted a quick about-face to the status quo. Maker’s Mark uses red winter wheat in place of rye to give their bourbon a softer profile.


The regular Maker’s Mark ($42) is good, but if you really want to treat yourself, seek out the Maker’s 46 ($62) in which the spirit is matured longer with the introduction of French oak staves. The French oak adds notes of honey, mixed nuts and sweet spices. The Beam family began producing whisky in 1795, and has gone on to become a global drinks business giant.

The standard Jim Beam Bourbon ($28) is a mixing whiskey, but their Booker’s Noe ($72) small batch bourbon stands out. The strength and profile varies from batch to batch, but it is generally above 60%, aged between 6 and 8 years. Originally hand selected by Jim Beam’s grandson, Booker Noe, the single barrel bourbon was only gifted to friends and family. A meatier bourbon, Booker’s is honeyed and spicy with notes of mesquite.

One of the most exciting new bourbons in our market is Four Roses, which is owned by the Kirin brewing company of Japan. Four Roses has a legacy going back to 1888, but it wasn’t until Kirin’s acquisition that things really started to look up. Four Roses Small Batch ($44) is bottled at 45%, from specially selected casks. With each batch they are hoping to achieve a smooth but subtly spicy palate with red berry fruits. The Four Roses Single Barrel ($54) is a single barrel bourbon which will vary slightly from batch to batch. Bottled at 50% it is generally a little sweeter and fruitier than the small batch. A cursory glance at the available bourbons in Alberta, including those above, might lead one to believe that bourbon is only produced in the state of Kentucky, but this is just an illusion. Bourbon can be made in any of America’s 50

States, and there are new producers popping up all over the country. The micro-distilling movement has spawned bourbons produced in New York State, San Francisco, Oregon, Texas and many places in between. In the years ahead, small scale distillers will present a challenge to the established industry heavyweights. It may be that bourbon can only be made in the United States, but not all American whiskey producers must make bourbon. Over the last decade, Andrew has earned a reputation as one of Canada’s most trusted whisky experts, and this year will celebrate five years of organizing and guiding premium whisky tours in Scotland (fergusonswhiskytours. com).

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American Spirit: An Introduction to Bourbon Story by GABRIEL HALL Photography by INGRID KUENZEL

64 • April 2013 64 • May 2013


The ambiance of the classic New York steakhouse is a unique thing. The feeling of walking into an ancient order where men in smoking jackets sit around tables in oversized leather chairs, puffing on pipes, telling stories or doing business under the watchful gaze of yellowing black and white photographs and paintings. Soon, prehistoric sized slabs of meat, seared to a dark crust are served, accompanied only by vegetables so unpalatable; it must be to discourage the in-vogue practice of vegetarianism. If you were one of these captains of commerce who frequented the “old boys club”, there was no way a glass of red wine would accompany your steak dinner, it was deemed too effeminate. Even a beer with your slab of meat was frowned upon. The only option for a man was brown liquor; scotch, whiskey or for many, bourbon. Thus, the connection between bourbon and meat was forever cemented in the annals of male behaviour. In all seriousness, bourbon does have a natural connection to strong foods. Wade Sirois, owner of Infuse Catering and Forage, suggests heavy meats would go well with bourbon and bourbon based drinks, “Something like a foie, terrine, or pate. The fat will stand up to the alcohol as well as provide a little sweetness and earthiness. Strong meats like game meats, duck and elk can stand up to the flavour of a bourbon cocktail.” Sirois’ exploits into the other side of the food and beverage industry extends from his time as a chef. Over twenty years

of culinary experience had piqued his interest and drawn him down the path of a bartender. His latest venture, Crowbar, is a pop-up bar, which can be temporarily located to any venue in town to showcase cocktails and spirits. “We looked for a creative way to introduce people to cocktails”, Sirois notes when asked about the basic premise of Crowbar. “There’s a fairly steep education with these types of drinks so we came up with a speakeasy type bar when finding a creative way to teach people about it.” Many spirits are an acquired taste. The strong burning sensation that accompanies alcohol is the first thing many people have to overcome. Additionally, flavours and sensations can be downright overwhelming. The bitter herbal taste of Fernet Branca or Jagermeister is an acquired taste. The heavy botanicals of gin can create odd sensations to the unaccustomed. Sirois maintains that Bourbon is a great place to start, “Bourbon is easier; it’s sweeter, not as peaty as scotch. It’s an easy way to expose someone to spirits.” Once a

drinker has become accustomed to liquor, they can then explore the depth and range of brown spirits, “Getting people to drink single cask bourbon is two or three steps down the process.” Like cooking, good cocktails are about intelligently using quality ingredients, “We want good liquors, paired well and simply. People are learning to appreciate that”, observes Sirois. Indeed, the demand for brown liquors has gone up dramatically in the last few years, but the selection of bourbons within Alberta still pales in comparison to the US, “It’s purely economics; we need more people going into liquor store and asking for it. We have to educate our patrons.” With resurging interest in brown spirits among both sexes and for all age groups, it is not a surprise that many people have chosen bourbon as their gateway drink. Its diversity and versatility allows it to be drunk straight or used in an endless number of mixtures. Best of all, it’s absolutely delicious. culinairemagazine.ca

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Kentucky Snowbird 1½ oz. Bourbon ½ oz. Aperol ½ oz. Cointreau 2 dashes orange bitters orange for flaming orange twist

1. Put ice in a rocks glass for chilling. 2. Put liquors and bitters in a stirring pitcher. Add ice and stir for 10-15 seconds.

3. Dump the ice from the chilled glass. Strain the cocktail into the glass. Flame an orange twist over the cocktail and discard the flamed peel.

4. Squeeze orange peel over the cocktail, run it around the rim of the glass and drop it into the cocktail.

Lawnmower Inspired by Coco 500 1½ oz. Bourbon 1 oz. lime juice ¾ oz. ginger syrup 5 leaves fresh mint mint for garnish

1. Put ice in a rocks glass for chilling. 2. Place all in a shaker tin. Add ice and shake for 10-15 seconds.

3. Dump the ice from the chilled glass. Strain the cocktail into the glass. Garnish with mint.

Ginger Syrup 1 cup cane sugar 1 cup water 1 cup fresh ginger (shredded)

1. Bring the sugar and water to a boil over medium heat. 2. Add the ginger and boil for 1 minute. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

3. Strain the ginger from the syrup. Store in a clean glass jar for up to one month in the refrigerator. 66 • April 2013 66 • May 2013


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68 • May 2013

Culinaire Magazine May 2013  

Calgary's freshest food and beverage magazine

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