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Culinaire CALGARY’S FRESHEST FOOD & BEVERAGE MAGAZINE

JULY/AUGUST 2012

$4.95

Seafood:

Calgary’s landlocked and we’re lovin’ it!

SUMMER SIPPERS | CELEBRATING CANADA’S SPIRIT | THIRST-SLAKING BEERS


FEATURES

CONTENTS

JULY/AUGUST 2012 / ISSUE #3

12

A Chippy Off The Old Block

40 Summer Beers

The season all Calgarians have been looking forward to since October is finally here! Patios, backyard parties, barbequing, and that’s right - thirst quenching beer. by David Nuttall and Meaghan O’Brien

24

You’ve Come Along Way Cowboy

44

A Great Catch

32

Eat Like A Kid Again

58

Canadian Whisky

Would you expect the owners of one of Calgary’s best fish and chip restaurants to be British ex-pats? Why not? Would you also expect them to be personal trainers who do yoga and teach weight-training classes? Not so much. by Cory Knibutat

The Greatest Outdoor Show On Earth celebrates a century of food in Calgary. by Heather Hartmann

Growing up, did you live for backyard barbecues? Corn dogs and candy apples at the fair? Summer, for kids, means food on sticks. by Heather Hartmann COVER PHOTO: by Natalie Findlay

Seafood in a prairie city best known for its AAA beef? You bet! Calgary has a large appetite for fish, especially fresh. The volume of fish sold in this landlocked city is astounding. by Fred Malley, CCC

It was continental Europeans, and mainly the English, who first commercialized whisky distillation in Canada. by Andrew Ferguson


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CONTENTS

Cu inaire Editor Art Director Contributors

Linda Garson Mark Bilodeau Stephanie Arsenault Leonard Brown Wendy Brownie Adrian Bryksa Dan Clapson Jeff Collins Andrew Ferguson Natalie Findlay Tom Firth Heather Hartmann Dan Hertz Brenda Holder Corinne Keddie Heather Kingston Cory Knibutat Patricia Koyich Fred Malley Thierry Meret Karen Miller David Nuttall Meaghan O’Brien Vincci Tsui Peter Vetsch

Advertising Account Executive

Joanne Black 403-401-9463

joanne@culinairemagazine.ca

To Contact Us Culinaire Magazine Box 28007 Cranston RPO Calgary, AB T3M 1K4 Send us email to: info@culinairemagazine.ca Visit: www.culinairemagazine.ca Follow Us On Twitter: @culinairemag

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www. culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

JULY/AUGUST 2012 / ISSUE #3

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Past Events

6

Fest Food

by Linda Garson

8

Fish Out Of Water

by Wendy Brownie

9

Stay Sharp!

by Cory Knibutat

10

Mother Nature’s Fish Market

by Brenda Holder

14

Mountains & Malt Vinegar

by Stephanie Arsenault

16

Inside Job: Fishmonger

by Fred Malley, CCC

18 Step-by-Step: Salmon Papilotte

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Ocean Educated or Ocean Wise by Stephanie Arsenault

39

Seafood Pairings Done By The Book

by Tom Firth

43

I’s The B’y That Hates The Fish

by Jeff Collins

48

Open That Bottle

by Linda Garson

50

Menu Gems

52

Real Men Can Drink Pink

54

by Tom Firth

Farmed Fish vs Fresh by Vincci Tsui

by Chef Thierry Meret

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Our Favourite Places To Buy Seafood

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20

Classic Canadian Blends

60 Great White North Distillation

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by Heather Kingston

The Soup Kitchen by Chef Thierry Meret

28 Step-by-Step: Cedar Plank Salmon

by Natalie Findlay

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Holy Smoked!

by Linda Garson

34

Chef’s Tips

by Chef Thierry Meret

In Search Of The Perfect Seafood Platter by Adrian Bryksa

by Andrew Ferguson

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Seed, Weed and Feed

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by Leonard Brown

Calgary Calamari by Linda Garson

Let’s Get Cocktail Correct by David Nuttall

The Art Of A Cocktail by Patricia Koyich


LETTER FROM THE EDITOR We’re so pleased that everyone has loved our glossy second issue. The magazines have all been snapped up very quickly and compliments have been flooding in. Thanks to all of you who took the time to write with your feedback. Summer is here in full force (although with sun and rain in equal amounts, it seems!), and we’re looking forward to all our city’s fun festivals over the next two months, and to discovering the food and beverages on offer. Centennial Stampede kicks off the festivities this year and it was fascinating to peep behind the scenes and learn how Stampede catering operates the other 355 days a year too. What mammoth organization, and incorporating a local-food initiative as well – great job! In contrast to all the burgers, pulled pork, hotdogs and other traditional meaty fare consumed this month (and don’t miss “Food on Sticks” for other summery suggestions on page 32), we’ve focused our attention on all things seafood for our July/August issue. Our talented team have been busy asking questions, talking to experts, and investigating anything that swims and crawls in our seas and rivers, or that smells fishy to us. You can chat and ask our writers questions too, at culinairemagazine.ca. In this issue we learn how to catch fish; where to buy it; how to cut it; step-by-step to cleaning and preparing it; as well as what our chefs are cooking up for us with the city’s best fish dishes, platters and calamaris, and the drinks to accompany them. For a self-declared beef-eating city, we don’t half get through a lot of seafood, with scales or shells! Executive Chef Kyle Groves at “Catch & the Oyster Bar” knows all too well, and he shares his experience and recipes with us here. You can enter to win an evening in the kitchen at Catch with him too – wow, your own private cooking class! Look for the competition at the end of the article. Of course July is Canada’s birthday month and we’re celebrating right through the summer with the spirits and wines that Canada does best, as well as other cooling sippers like light beers and chilled cocktails. One of our favourite mixologists, Colin Tait at Raw Bar, has even created a seafood cocktail specially for us! And finally, a shout-out of thanks to all our advertisers and contributors that make Culinaire possible. We’re here to support Calgary’s food and beverage industry and we’re very grateful to those who support us too. Please show your appreciation to them. Do stay in touch over the summer and please continue to send your suggestions and comments, we love to hear from you. Cheers m’dears!

Linda Garson Editor-in-Chief linda@culinairemagazine.ca

Comments From Our Readers Hi Linda: Congratulations on your magazine! I was in Cork the other day and picked it up and used the sake article to pick a couple out for a dinner I am hosting Friday. Thanks! ~ BJ, Calgary Dear Ms. Garson, My partner, who is a chef, brought home your magazine this weekend. I was immediately impressed by the visually compelling imagery and photography of Culinaire, as well as the insightful and unusual content (i.e. Inside Job and Sweet Treats from Sweet Trees). ~ Kim F, Calgary Hi Linda, I recently picked up the June 2012 edition of Culinaire Magazine and was excited to find a magazine that focuses on the food and beverage scene in Calgary. I was impressed with the variety of coverage on local businesses and personalities, and the amount of recipes found in the magazine. The step-by-step to building salad rolls is a particular favourite we’ve already made them three times in my house (with tofu instead of prawns)! ~ Silvia P, Calgary

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 PAST    EVENTS   New Zealand Wine Show May 3, 2012

This year’s New Zealand Wine Show was held at the Art Gallery of Calgary: a sophisticated venue where sampling good wine and viewing spectacular art made for a superb evening out. The event was spread throughout the galleries on three floors. In Alberta, the New Zealand wines that we are most familiar with are their sauvignon blanc and pinot noir, however, I found myself intrigued by their pinot gris and riesling. To make it into our market, there has to be enough produced by the winemaker to fill orders in our Province. These are some gems to consider: Akarua Winery has a pinot gris from the most southerly region in the southern hemisphere, Otago. The wine is fullbodied for a white, with peachy mid-palate tones and a fresh finish. The vineyard is part of the “Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand” program, a voluntary program set up to incorporate environmental awareness, conservation, social responsibility and financial sustainability. Huia Vineyards are a small, very environmentally conscious estate. The vineyard is organic and biodynamic, with their first fully certified organic wine coming with the 2011 vintage. The sauvignon blanc and pinot noir, both from the Marlborough region, were first-class wines with distinctive, classic characteristics: a grassy sauvignon blanc and a tart raspberry and cherry pinot noir. Brancott Estate Wines are also from the Marlborough region. They pride themselves on a conscientious awareness to recycle and reuse. They use recycled paper for boxes and they recycle plastics. The leftover organic product from wine making – pips, stems and stalks – are made into fertilizer. Excellent pinot gris to check out! ~ Heather Kingston

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  

Banff Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival May 4-5, 2012

The Banff Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival once again graced the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel this spring, impressing patrons with a delectable assortment of wine, beer, spirits, and food samples from local restaurants. Nearly 80 different wineries from around the world were represented, along with over 20 breweries, and more than 50 distilleries and other adult beverage companies. Though the scale was international, Canada was well represented. Some local highlights included See Ya Later Ranch wines, MTL Premium beer, and Masterson’s rye whiskey. When not imbibing, guests had the opportunity to sample dishes from some of the best restaurants in the area, including an enticing Spiced Chorizo Sausage Papardelle from the Rimrock, a White Chocolate Mousse with Gingersnap Tuile and Raspberry Compote from the Juniper Hotel & Bistro, and, of course, hearty Beef Sliders from The Eddie Burger + Bar. The 5th annual Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival will take place in Calgary on October 12th and 13th, and Edmonton on November 2nd and 3rd. Tickets cost $27 (in advance) or $30 (at the door) and sampling tickets are available at an additional cost. For more information on the festival, visit www. rockymountainwine.com. ~ Stephanie Arsenault


EAT Vancouver Festival June 1-3, 2012

  

Big Rock Eddies June 4, 2012

  

For the 11th annual EAT Vancouver festival, exhibitors took over B.C. Place Stadium for the three days and filled it with anything and everything culinary-related. There was an array of food to sample and drinks to sip, but attendees could also catch cooking demonstrations by popular food personalities throughout the weekend on the Food Network Canada Celebrity stage, like Top Chef Canada Season 1 winner, Chef Dale Mackay. For all the coffee lovers in attendance, The Western Canadian Regional Barista Championship also took place during EAT, with Kyle Straw of 49th Parallel Roasters taking home the 1st place trophy. The Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts set-up a ‘pop-up’ cooking school in the stadium, where festival-goers could sign up for hands-on culinary lessons with the school’s Executive Chef, Julian Bond. Other notable culinary experiences to be had included cheese tasting seminars and wine, beer and spirits tastings. The main event to catch over the weekend was most definitely the celebrity cook-off between Bob Blumer (Food Network host, World’s Weirdest Restaurants), well-known BC chef Rob Feenie, and David Rocco (Food Network host, David Rocco’s Dolce Vita). The gentlemen faced off in a black box competition, with a topsecret ingredient, kale. The cook-off was moderated and judged by ET Canada’s Erin Cebula. The event had a full audience and several lucky guests were able to come join the stage, lending a hand in the cooking process. In the end, it was David Rocco who won with his charm and a delicious plate of carbonara!

Monday, June 4, 2012 marked the 19th annual Big Rock Eddies, a contest and awards gala highlighting the best in Big Rock drinkers’ advertising skills, and all in the name of a good time and a good cause. Beneficiaries for the event included the One Yellow Rabbit Performance Theatre, the Calgary Women’s Emergency Shelter, and the EPCOR CENTRE for the Performing Arts. Held at the Jack Singer Concert Hall, the evening started out with a red carpet entrance and an assortment of Big Rock refreshments. The awards show, hosted by the hilarious and charming Andy Curtis (as his alter-ego, Anthony Curtola) was short and sweet, and showcased a variety of talented would-be video and print advertisers. After the show was over and prizes were awarded, guests were ushered out into the lobby for live entertainment and samples from local restaurants. Moxie’s Classic Grill, Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut, Sorrenti’s Catering, World Wide Specialty Foods, Hotel Arts, The Ship and Anchor, Craft Beer Market, Tango, and Booker’s BBQ and Crab Shack provided spicy sausages, tantalizing sliders, delectable desserts, and much, much more. It was yet another successful night at the annual Eddies; the venue was packed with creatively dressed people, plenty of delicious food and drink, and an endless amount of laughs. One can only imagine what next year’s 20th anniversary gala will bring.

~ Dan Clapson

~ Meaghan O’Brien

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Where in the world are you eating tonight? by Linda Garson

Calgary Folk Music Festival is not only a treat for the ears but for other

senses too – there’s always tempting smells and tastes, and we’re looking forward to enjoying the delicious array of food from 23 different vendors over the four days. Here’s a sampling of this year’s picks:

Fat City Franks: Look out for “Jersey

Shore” - homemade Italian meatballs in Marinara sauce topped with Provolone cheese; “Canadian Classic” (mustard, ketchup, relish, onion) and the “Ukrainian”, featured on Food Network’s “You Gotta Eat Here”, a dog topped with cheese and potato perogy filling, sauteed onion, sour cream and bacon bits.

Spudmobeel’s menu is gluten-free and cooked in canola oil. We’re tempted by their Fresh Cut Yam Fries with garlic and chili dip on the side; Bacon Cheese Fries with bacon, cheese, ranch dressing and green onions; Chili Fries with homemade meat chili, sour cream and grated cheese; and Spiral Fries from fresh cut Yukon Gold potatoes,

The Onigiri Company is serving up

gluten-free, nut- and dairy-free sushi rice with a cooked savoury filling wrapped in Nori, in a choice of four flavours: Yam N’ Salmon, Teriyaki Beef, Wasabi Tuna and Sweet Chili Tuna. Add a side of Edamame with Sea Salt for a full meal.

Faux Real: The noodles, bread and

doughnuts are made on the truck with organic prairie wheat. “The Faux” is organic bone broth, house-made noodles, carrots,

and choy, with cilantro, scallion and lime, and an option of braised free-range pork; “Far-East Chowder” is a seasonal vegetable stew with a coconut rice pyramid, cilantro, scallion & lime and an option of crispy wild fish. There’s also “Organic Fried Chicken & Pickled Watermelon“ to tickle your tastebuds.

Flippin’ Crêpes will be offering a

variety of sweet and savoury crêpes, Sweet: Maple butter, Nutella, Lemon & Sugar, and Savoury: Chicken pesto goat cheese, spicy sausage, ham & cheese, Mexicaine, Ultimate Meat Lover, Veggies and BLT. There’s also a full range of coffee: americano, latte, chai, blended cappuccino, and a choice of flavourful smoothies; strawberry & banana, mango, matcha green tea.

Mediterranean BBQ pride themselves on healthy options for meat-eaters, vegetarians and vegans. Mouthwatering tastes include: grilled marinated chicken, Merguez lamb sausage, grilled eggplant, red peppers and zucchini – all served in toasted pita bread or as a platter. There’s also homemade homous, tzatziki and dolmades of course! Watch them make authentic Paella, full of seafood, spicy sausage, vegetables and saffron.

July 26th – 29th 2012, Princes Island Park www.calgaryfolkfest.com

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Taste of Calgary is back for its

15th year at Eau Claire’s Festival Plaza. You’ll find a mix of exotic global cuisine from over forty of Calgary’s restaurants and beverage companies this year. Admission is free and Taste sampling tickets are $1 each. Discover soon-to-be favourites such as Kashk-e-Bademjan, Pakoras, and Thai Pineapple Curry, or indulge in the more familiar infamous colossal BBQ Beef Ribs, Mushroom Glazed Meatballs and Stuffed Baby Yorkies. Wash it all down with sample-size sippers of over 20 craft beers, and cocktails like Pink Lemonade Margarita and Soho Original Mojito, while listening to local entertainers live on the Main Stage. This year, watch for the new “TwoTicket Taster”, where every restaurant serves at least one menu item for two tickets or less. Taste of Calgary supports the Boys and Girls Community Services of Calgary, the Calgary Chinese Community Service Association, the CanWest Raise a Reader Campaign and the Calgary Saracens. August 16th – 19th, 2012 11am - 9pm www.tasteofcalgary.com


All You Can Eat Crab & Maritime Madness in Calgary by David Nuttall and Corinne Keddie

Despite living in a landlocked province, Calgarians love their seafood. Evidence of this can be found in two busy restaurants where a seafood theme takes over a few days a month. Dobson’s Restaurant & Bar and Bookers BBQ Grill & Crab Shack both offer all-you-can-eat crab. Every other Sunday, Dobson’s features a Maritime Madness Menu with eight crab, mussels, prawns, shrimp and fish choices. Dobson’s is the new kid on the block, having been open less than three years. It’s a modern restaurant with somewhat of a pub feel to it, owned by fourth generation Calgarians, the Dobson family. Executive Chef Andrea Harling sources organic and sustainable ingredients locally as much as possible. On a recent Sunday trip, we tried some of the maritime features, and found them to be fresh and flavourful. The fish and chips were as good as any in the city, with a lighter batter than most. The halibut came with a unique applehorseradish slaw and zesty honey jalapeño tartar sauce. The bucket of shrimp was full of nicely sized shrimp, deep-fried in the same light batter. There are two different steam pots, “Rajin Cajun”, and “Dobson’s” which is full of mussels, shrimps and snow crab steamed in a herb garlic lager. There are also two kinds of mussels; “Garlicky”, and “Diablo” - PEI mussels cooked with plenty of spicy chorizo sausage from Spolumbo’s. The food was delicious and at very reasonable prices. We weren’t able to attend an all-you-can-eat crab Sunday, but we hear the place fills up, and 20-30 buckets and more per group is not an uncommon sight. Downtown by the Bow River, Bookers has been around since 1998. Surviving that long, despite being located in a virtual no man’s land for restaurants, gives testament to its loyal following. Started by Lance Hurtubise and Bruce

Claypool, it was Calgary’s first restaurant that featured southern cooking, BBQ and seafood, and was formally the location for live crab races and goldfish shooters (long since gone, but not forgotten). As a residential population begins to fill the immediate area, it has become known as the place for all-you-can-eat crab, live music, and its Stampede tent. We were not disappointed with our three “clusters” of snow crab, each the legs and claw. Served on a steel plate with choice of coleslaw, baked beans or rice on the side, it is accompanied with hot drawn butter, which perfectly complemented the Hidden Hook, Family Reserve Chardonnay ($10.25, 6 oz). Unlimited refill buckets await, and while there is no plaque on the wall, the most anyone can remember is 24 refills (or about 5 lbs) ordered by a single person. This is a eat-with-your-hands and not-be-afraid-to-get-a-bitmessy place, matching the casual warehouse atmosphere. But you can ask for a lobster bib and extra napkins. And after years of metal crab forks mysteriously disappearing, the black plastic crab forks now say “Stolen From Bookers Calgary”. At least you will remember where you stole it from! Make sure to try the fall-off-the-bone St. Louis ribs too, also all-you-can-eat ($28.95) on the same nights. They are smoked for four hours and are nicely blackened on the outside and taste of sweet barbeque sauce with a hint of spice. We look forward to coming back and trying the new menu by Chef Miles Learning launching this summer.

Bookers all-you-can-eat crab is on Sundays and Mondays ($39.95), 316 3rd Street S.E. www.bookersbbq.com Dobson’s all-you-can-eat crab is the last Sunday of every month ($34.99), 7116 Macleod Trail Trail S. www.dobsonscalgary.com

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Fish Water out of

by Wendy Brownie photo by Cory Knibutat Wendy is the owner of Inspirati Fine Linen. inspirati.ca details Wendy’s range of European and Canadian linens, tablecloths, runners, placemats and napkins.

During the late 1880s many aspects of dining were formalized. Silver knives and forks began to replace steel because steel was thought to react with the fish acids and accompanying sauces, possibly tainting the natural flavour of the fish. Often referred to as ‘fish eaters’, these utensils became a symbol of proper or ‘posh’ etiquette. The fish knife has a bend along the upper half to help skin or fillet a piece of fish. This knife is not to be used for cutting or slicing – only to break apart, lift or flake the fish. The fish fork has smaller, pointier tines on the outside to facilitate little bones when encountered. While the fish course can be a stressful time for some dinner guests, my dear grandmother always encouraged us to have fun with her mother-of-pearl-handled utensils. In fact, there was always a contest to see which family member could pick out the most bones from the specimens that my father had caught earlier from the morning’s fishing excursion.

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Fish on the bone is easy to eat: Insert the knife tip in the middle of the fish at the head end Cut through the flesh along the backbone all the way to the tail Slide the knife under the flesh, so it is flat against the backbone. If the fish is cooked correctly, the fillet will slip off easily Turn the fish over and repeat with the fillet on the other side of the backbone

• • • •

Say goodbye to the debris while a delicious fish feast, accompanied by a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, awaits you! The formal fish knife set is not necessary, however our family still enjoys using my grandmother’s.


Stay Sharp! by Cory Knibutat

Whether filleting a fish for a family dinner or trying your hand at shucking oysters with friends, it’s all about using the proper tool for the job. A bit of technique never hurts either and, ultimately, could save you some pain.

Whether filleting a fish for a family dinner or trying your hand at shucking oysters with friends, it’s all about using the proper tool for the job. A bit of technique never hurts either and, ultimately, could save you some pain. Rather than the usual narrow, flexible filleting knives used commonly in western cuisine, consider branching out by adding a couple of Japanese blades to your collection. The Deba and the Yanagiba are the two basic knives for cutting fish in the Japanese style. The Deba is typically used to take the fish off the bones, while the Yanagiba is used once the bones have been removed. Unlike typical chef’s knives, only one side of a Deba actually has an edge, but it’s razor sharp, set at 15 degrees. “They make the back side of the blade concave,” said Mike Wrinch, General Manager of Knifewear, in Inglewood. “The concave backside allows you to break surface tension so it allows you to cut through without things sticking.” Less sticking requires less force, meaning the delicate meat of the fish you’re cutting won’t be mashed or torn in any way. “Cutting a piece of fish with a dull, fat, ugly knife in some shop somewhere, that you purchased four or five days later is not going to have wonderful bright texture and flavours, it’s going to be flat and disagreeable,” Wrinch said. “Cutting your own fish is a great thing to do.” If you want a bit of extra fun, try using a Yanagiba. “When you’re slicing the portion, you’re cutting a long slice,” Wrinch said. “The only portion of the blade that connects with the board is the

tip. They’re so sharp and the edge is so fine, that it’s really quite easy to do.” What’s not so easy to do is to get a handle on shucking oysters. The handle is short and stout, the blade is round and blunted and for beginners, it seems like a good way to stab your hand. Basic oyster shuckers have three parts: a handle, guard and blade. “If you’re just muddling around then the guard is good, because what a lot of people will do is slide in and bang their knuckles together,” oyster purveyor and personal chef Eric Giesbrecht, said. “I’ll take the guards off so you can choke up on the blade for better leverage, much like how you would hold a kitchen knife.” “You need to kind of bear down to get more control, but that comes with more professional use,” Giesbrecht added. Also a useful tool for oyster shuckers of all skill levels is an oyster board. It’s basically a small plank with a depression carved into it, designed to hold your oyster in place. “The advantage of using the board is it puts the oyster up on this natural angle,” Giesbrecht said. “You actually look to see where the gill is, if it needs to be pulled down and where you can see the muscle to get it so that you’re not damaging all the top area of the oyster.” Happy filleting, slicing and shucking!

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Mother Nature’s Fish Market by Brenda Holder Learning from her elders, Brenda loves to share Cree/Iroquois Métis traditions with others. She offers walks, talks, bush craft and experiential programs at mahikan.ca

When I was growing up my dad used to take me fishing - summer and winter, those fun times always bring up such great memories for us both! He still goes out every chance he gets, it seems

to be in his blood and is just a quiet way for him to enjoy the summer. Once in a while, when I can get time out from an insanely busy schedule, I head out with my husband, rods, dog and other fishing paraphernalia. Though I loved catching fish, the frustrating part for my parents is that I never really liked fish and would do my best to get out of eating it, any time I could. I was often asked: “What kind of Métis kid are you anyway? You are supposed to eat fish!” I’m still not much of a fish fan, but I have discovered there are a lot of plants out in the bush that make fish more palatable to a non-fish-eating person, and indeed I’ve even surprised myself as to how tasty it can be (shhhh don’t tell my parents!). So what magical plant discoveries did I make to delight my palate? Among the many plants that you can use to enjoy with fish, I have two favourites that really stand out. But before we explore them, I thought it might be interesting to learn about some of the early methods used for catching fish. My mother often told me that the way she used to fish when she was a child was with fish traps. These traps may be considered crude by today’s standards, but they are simple to make and rather effective. My parents would go down to the creek, and find the best spot to catch the fish (my mom seemed to have a bit of “fish sense”). When the quarry was located, they would very quietly begin to walk downstream some distance away. Once they walked far enough, they would begin pushing long sticks into the sand, creating a “v” shaped corral for the fish to swim into, but no opening on the other side for them to swim out of. Once the corral or trap was completed, they would very quietly walk back, well away from the water (so as not to scare the fish), until they reached a spot upstream of the fish. They would then get into the water, and start walking fast towards the fish, which would in turn swim downstream, right into the corral. Then with dipping nets, they’d scoop out their fish until they had a sufficient amount, and release the

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rest of them by pulling up the sticks. Another way to catch fish is something many people are more familiar with, and that is using a wide net to stretch across a section of creek or river. The traditional nets would often be made of spun nettles, grass or other material that could be bound into a strong string in order to weave a net. Though we may not think that these materials would be very strong, if you spin them tight enough (same way we spin wool), these plants will create a very tough and durable string that is workable, yet able to withstand the strain of holding fish. So now that we’ve caught the fish, it’s time to clean and cook them, that’s where I come back into the story, the nonfish-eating fisher person. Really, because I was always taught to use what I harvest, I decided that I had to find a way to eat the fish that I caught or I would just have to give up fishing. I realized that whatever I chose, it had to be a pungent and strong plant that would complement the fish, though make it palatable enough for me to eat. Two plants immediately came


to mind, and those were juniper and spruce! The berries of juniper were always a favourite of mine to eat with dried moose or elk, and even beef jerky. I always found smoked fish more to my liking, so I thought if I added juniper to smoked fish, it would be more pleasing to eat. Success! It was delicious. However, I wanted to try fish either baked, broiled or fried, so I filled a fish with some wild onion, added a small amount of juniper berries (half a handful) and added some spruce needles – in the same way you would use dried rosemary! A dab of butter, salt and pepper, and voila! All this added to a sheet of tinfoil, and into hot coals for a short period of time made for a surprisingly delicious meal. What doesn’t taste good cooked in the outdoors anyway? I still can’t really say I’m a fish fan, but I do know now that I can rest easy within my cultural teachings, and that is using whatever I take from the land, air or water. I will eat what I catch, or give it away to friends and family that do enjoy fish.

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a

off the

by Cory Knibutat Cory is a promising journalist and photographer early in his career, and oversees social media communications, facebook and twitter.

Would you expect the owners of one of Calgary’s best fish and chip restaurants to be British ex-pats? Why not? Would you also expect them to be personal trainers who do yoga and teach weighttraining classes? Not so much. Gary and Simone Hodgkinson, the husband and wife team behind The British Chippy, in Bridlewood, are relative newcomers to Calgary’s food scene, having opened their shop in the fall of 2009. Offering haddock, cod, chips, mushy peas and even steak and kidney pie, The British Chippy has earned a steadily growing following by doing traditional British food just like you would find across the Atlantic. Opening your own restaurant is never easy, even for veteran restaurateurs, but Gary and Simone found themselves opening their first restaurant out of necessity and serendipity. The pair moved here 11 years ago, with Gary pursuing a career as a Dental Technician and Simone working some or all of the many jobs she had in the UK as a teacher, fitness instructor and personal trainer. Needless to say, running a restaurant wasn’t on their radar at the time. Frustrated and dissatisfied with the greasy, tasteless portions found at franchised fish restaurants, Gary and Simone took it upon themselves to make one of the most iconic British dishes the right way. This wasn’t as foolhardy an idea as it sounds; Gary happens to be a fourthgeneration fish fryer. His great-grandparents, grandparents, and parents all ran chippys in England. Gary himself was a part of the British Fish Fryers Federation, an organization

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that sets the standards to which fish should be fried. “The whole idea was to do it traditionally,” Gary Hodgkinson said. “We were trying to transport everything from England and give people a taste of how we think it should be done.” “We tried to do it six years ago and at another location, and at the time Gary had a job in Dentistry,” Simone Hodgkinson said. “Needless to say we didn’t get the location. It went to another restaurant because they had more experience. When it opened, it was a fish and chip shop, and I went, ‘See! I told you Calgary needs it!’” Simone added: “To convince Gary to give up a great job and go into such an unsure environment when we’ve got a family, wasn’t practical. So we thought we were done with it.” The recession, however, affected many different types of jobs and in early 2009, Gary found himself out of a job in dentistry and having to re-evaluate his career ambitions. “We were kind of pushed into it,” Gary said. “I lost my job. It was the perfect time to give it up and see what happens.” The new location in Bridlewood was found, and the grueling business of opening their very own restaurant was underway in the summer of 2009. The construction, like most, was behind schedule, and due to an aggressive marketing strategy, the surrounding community as well as ex-pats


from all over eagerly awaited the grand opening. “It was crazy,” Gary said. “We really didn’t know what to expect.” “When we opened I remember thinking that every single Brit that lived in Calgary had got on a bus and had all been dropped off at this place,” Simone added. “Our friends walked in and we were like, ‘Get in the back! Wash the dishes!’ It was just crazy. It was beyond us.” It also meant a lot of disappointed customers in the beginning. To be clear, this isn’t fast-food fish and chips. This is authentic old-fashioned fish and chips that cut no corners to guarantee the most honest forkful of classic British cuisine. Fish come in whole and are cut and portioned in house, ensuring the best quality fish possible in the prairies. “That was our biggest challenge when we opened,” Simone said. “Fish & chips are seen as fast food and we’re not fast. We would tell people, ‘Ok, that’ll be 15 minutes for your order.’ And they would go, “15 minutes?!’” “We’ve got to batter the fish, remove any excess batter so it’s not too greasy and let it cook properly.” Of course Calgary doesn’t have the luxury of a fresh fish market. Most fish and chip restaurants will buy fish pre-portioned in an effort to save money and in-house labour costs. “We could have bought fish that was already filleted and chopped into pieces,” Simone said. “Stuff that was caught, frozen, sent to China, cut up, packaged and frozen again.”

Simone added: “How do you get fresh fish when you don’t live near the ocean without paying an arm and a leg? And that’s where we’re at. We do pay an arm and a leg.” “I think using a good product is a great basis and for us it’s more important that people enjoy the stuff that we do than we get rich,” Gary said. “We could do this a lot cheaper than we’re doing it but it wouldn’t be as good.” Since the shaky start, The British Chippy have certainly found their legs and their shop is running they way that they would like. The community has come to embrace them once more and the all-important ex-pats have come flocking from all over Alberta. It’s not uncommon for British Canadians to make the trip from Red Deer, Lethbridge or even Edmonton and stay the night. “We got a really positive response, which is nice,” Gary said. “Plus we get a few of the older ex-pats who come in and they’ve said to us, “It better be good”, that blatantly, and they keep coming back. So with those kinds of people, you know if they like it, then it must be something good because they would tell you if it wasn’t.” “We like to think we took whatever we knew from England and made it just a little bit better,” Gary said.” You can find The British Chippy in Calgary at: 2335 - 162 Avenue SW 403-256-1156 www.thebritishchippy.com

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Mountains Malt Vinegar and

by Stephanie Arsenault

It’s nearly impossible to miss the Drake Pub on your way into Canmore’s downtown area, and with fish ‘n chips like theirs, you wouldn’t want to pass it by. This classic beer and grub pub is an institution for locals and tourists alike; all thanks to the uncomplicated menu, good prices, and friendly service. For $9.99-$13.99 you can get a one, two, or three piece dish of fish ‘n chips that consists of meaty portions of cod dipped in a not-too-thick beer batter, cooked until golden. Served alongside home-cut fries, turmeric-tinted coleslaw, and the obligatory ketchup and tartar sauce, this plate is perfect for anyone looking for some good old comfort food in the Rockies. So next time you’re in Canmore, pop by the Drake, grab a pint, and enjoy a plate of fish ‘n chips on their spacious, sunny patio – your taste buds will thank you. The Drake Inn is located at 909 Railway Avenue in Canmore. Call (403) 678-5131 or visit www.drakeinn.com for more information.

>>> Book Reviews by Karen Miller

>>>

Blue Ribbon Bow

by Jim Mclennan Johnson Gorman Publishers The Bow is a big river that starts in Banff National Park flowing eastward 90 miles to Calgary and then southward. Mclennan is a river guide on the Bow. Although locals have been fishing the Bow for many years, it took outsiders to appreciate the fish and it now draws anglers from around the world. Apparently the river has something to satisfy everyone. Mclennan tells a story about taking fishing seriously with much information on river etiquette, different species and many tips on what boats and flies to use. It starts with some history of the region, back to fur trading with the Indians, formation of the RCMP and the railway, as well as the discovery of oil. The Bow downstream of Calgary has been declared one of the best trout streams in the world and has been called a “magnificent accident”. It is the result of steps taken to improve water quality for the ever-increasing population of Calgary. Although many species are now “catch and release”, and in the past stocking some species was done, the trout in the river are now wild. Fishermen who are totally immersed in their sport are not usually known to give away trade secrets. I believe Mclennan appreciates what he has been able to experience so close to home, that he is willing to share the wealth. He talks nothing about the cooking or eating of fish, but my impression is, for him, the beauty is the sport.

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Karen is a lawyer by trade and has taught many styles of cooking classes, as well as producing two cookbooks as part of the Calgary Dishing girls.

Halibut: The Cookbook

edited by Karen Barnaby published in 2007 by Whitecap Books $24.95 Halibut is a sweet and simple fish we look forward to as one of the rites of spring. Of course available frozen all year round, now it warrants such a diverse compilation of recipes from Canadian cooks including Calgarians Dee HobsbawnSmith, Gail Norton, Cinda Chavich and Ron Shewchuk. Whitecap has taken the best halibut recipes from its published chefs and provided us with basic instruction on buying, storing and cooking methods. As well, the recipes cover the classics such as chowder, fish cakes and fish and chips. The collection goes beyond halibut ‘n’ chips with preparations for ceviche and the ever-so-succulent halibut cheeks, cedar planking and even a halibut osso bucco. With these recipes you can have halibut pan seared, roasted, steamed, baked, wrapped, stewed and grilled. Cook it simply or gild it with a myriad of sauces or salsas. Karen Barnaby knows of what she speaks, as she has been the executive chef at Vancouver’s Fish House Restaurant since 1995 and she has done a great job of ensuring we can all enjoy halibut in our own way, from the simplest preparation to the elaborate. An excellent book for anyone wanting to enjoy halibut more often.


Inside Job

by Fred Malley, CCC

Fishmonger: Keeping It Fresh

Fresh fish and seafood lands in Calgary daily….truck and plane loads of it. Per capita consumption of fish in our beef-eating city is astounding; one local restaurant group orders semi-trailers of pollock, haddock and halibut at a time. While some restaurants source directly, most rely on the same reputable, inspected wholesalers who supply the city’s retail fishmongers. These retailers offer expertise, quality and value-added to keep customers returning, highlighting a common sentiment that you ‘can’t rely on fish alone’. The key to success though, is paying exacting attention to detail, as the product is highly perishable.

Billingsgate was Calgary’s first fish market, opened in 1907 where Olympic Plaza now sits. It has been synonymous with quality fish for four generations and the fifth, a daughter, is in the wings. As a young chef downtown, I recall Billingsgate as the only show in town for both retail and wholesale. Evolving markets set the stage for Brian Fallwell to open Billingsgate Seafood and Lighthouse Café in Stadium Shopping Centre on Uxbridge Drive NW, to supplement the Edmonton store, as his father entered retirement. Family portraits are proudly displayed on the wall. Brian believes in “Keep it fresh, much like poker - know when to hold and when to move on”. His goal is to “provide the variety customers expect consistently. Know what people want and introduce a new fish periodically. Know what you are buying….what is it really? Sole is not always sole”. With prior notice, Brian will

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ensure fresh Dungeness crab for next weekend and prepare chilled party platters. In addition to the selection of fresh fish, oysters, mussels and lobster, the freezers offer a diverse selection. Drop in for a casual lunch or early supper; there is a wide choice of fish and the chips are cooked fresh, plus the clam chowder is thick. Boyd’s Lobster Shop was established in 1976 by Blaise Boyd, at 1515 14th Street SW. He is long retired but the faces behind the counter are the same. Brothers, Paul and Gerard Cormier, have been there for almost 25 years, buying the company in 2001. “We know our customers and they trust us”, Paul says, “our strength is freshness, personal service and affordable competitiveness. We will custom cut. We make our own bouillabase base and you select the fish and seafood


you like, to finish it at home”. Pick up live lobster and they will cook them to order while you wait. Paul recommends “it’s wild sockeye season, great for your summer BBQ”. North Sea Fish, in Willow Park Village, will be celebrating their tenth anniversary in November, and in January this year, Su Jin Kwon grasped the opportunity to purchase the location after working there for ten years. I remember Su Jin as an international student in SAIT’s culinary program. She says, “my father helped me realize a dream and I am grateful to Brian Plunkett, who taught me how to run a successful business and fillet fresh fish expertly”. Su Jin has a ready smile and offers advice on how to cook your catch. She sources wild and Ocean Wise fish and offers Valbella meats, AAA beef, free-range chicken, and meat pies plus a great

selection of condiments and gadgets. Prepared foods include lobster mac & cheese, coquille St. Jacques, chowder, crab cakes and halibut burgers. It’s a convenient location next door to Willow Park Wines & Spirits, Springbank Cheese and Cobb’s bread; everything you need for dinner within a few metres. It’s Blu Seafood & Market’s fourth birthday this month, but the affable Irishman with a twinkle in his eye who started it, is no stranger to the business. Brian Plunkett is a classically trained chef, whose pedigree includes the venerable Calgary Golf and Country Club and his own restaurant in Avenida. He explains, “I saw a need for a boutique-style fish retailer with a chef helping customers to cook their purchases correctly. I tutor customers in

restaurant-style cooking for them to get the best results, and that keeps them coming back.” He developed a loyal following during a partnership at North Sea Fish, and opened Blu on McLeod Trail in the Brick Plaza, 9600 block. The new Calgary Farmers Market provided an opportunity to “grow the business, with a location providing plenty of traffic and high quality independent vendors selling the best quality produce, meats and accompaniments”. Brian prides himself on a selection of very fresh fish and a pristinely clean shop. He also offers steaks, chicken, and Valbella meats, and employs a full time chef for his expanding Home Meal Replacement offerings. These include classic lobster thermidor and bisque, coquille St. Jacques, clam chowder, crab cakes and salmon burgers, all gluten-free. When you walk in the door you may be hit with the aroma of baking if your timing is right; large

steak and kidney pies, as well as beef and chicken and shepherd’s pies. And you get expert advice on how to cook your choices. For an adventurous field trip for you and the kids, head to T&T Market on 36th Street NE, the largest selection of fish and seafood in the city. There are numerous large tanks with live lobster, crab, B.C. ling cod, tilapia, carp, conch, sea snails, oysters and mussels. Take it home live or get the guys to cut it up for you there. They use some big cleavers very deftly and I was pleased to observe that they descale the salmon. Fresh fillets and steaks are purchased as fast as they cut it. Their freezers hold a multitude of species, many whole. Just about every size of shrimp is available. Be willing to look around because not all the staff can assist you.

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The Step-by-Step to

Salmon Papilotte Serves 2

by Chef Thierry Meret

Salmon Papillote is probably one of the easiest and healthiest recipes to prepare where flavour and natural moisture remained trapped into the pouch. This cooking technique is a great opportunity to showcase your culinary creativity by adding herbs, spices and replacing the salmon by chicken breast, pork loin or even an egg!

2 x 120g salmon fillet, skinless and boneless 5 ml olive oil 10 ml grainy mustard ½ lemon, thinly sliced 50g fennel, thinly sliced 50g carrot, peeled and thinly sliced 50g celery, thinly sliced 1 small shallot, peeled and thinly sliced 1 ml sea salt ½ ml ground white pepper 2 cut-out parchment paper (50cmx30cm with a lip)

Whether cooked on a cedar plank or in papillote, salmon pairs particularly well with Pinot Noir. Try Mission Hill Five Vineyards Pinot Noir ($20- $22) or Villa Maria Cellar Selection Pinot Noir ($36 - $39) or if you prefer beer, try Ayinger Jahrhundert 500 mL ($4- $5)

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1. Preheat the oven to 400º F (convection if possible) 2. Spoon a little olive oil off-centre of the parchment paper 3. Place the sliced celery, carrot fennel and shallot in a little pile 4. Season the salmon fillet with a little salt and pepper and place on top of the vegetables 5. Spoon over the mustard and gently spread 6. Add two thin slices of lemon 7. Wrap the papillote as shown in the photographs 8. Cook in the preheated oven for 10 minutes 9. Remove from the oven, open the bag and transfer to a serving plate 10. Serve with apple and beet salad, and garnish with a side of arugula salad. CHEF’s TIP: Culinary parchment cooking bags can be purchased at your local grocery store, for details on ready-to-use bags, please visit www.paperchef.com


Our Favourite Places To Buy Seafood We’re very lucky to have such a wide choice of seafood in our land-locked city, so we asked our Culinaire contributors to tell us their favourite places to shop. Peter Vetsch Boyd’s fish market on 14th St is my choice. Unassuming from the outside, but featuring a surprising array of fresh-daily seafood (daily! in Calgary!) and a knowledgeable staff to help you pick it out. A definite hidden gem for fish lovers in the Beltline. Adrian Bryksa One of my favourite places to buy seafood is Pelican Pier (4404 14 Street NW). They carry an excellent selection of fresh and frozen seafood as well as take away soups/chowders, appetizers and desserts. Customers can order on-line at pelicanpier.ca/ fishmarket Vincci Tsui My favourite place to buy seafood is T & T. Having grown up in a Chinese family, I still like carrying on the tradition of choosing a fish (or shellfish) live from the tank. I’m glad that the fishmonger does the actual killing and gutting, though! Wendy Brownie Sunterra Westhills is my favourite – especially their steelhead trout. Dan Hertz Growing up, my brother and I used to go pike-fishing in Glenmore Reservoir. Thank goodness, my mother had the smarts to go to Billingsgate Fish Company after dropping us off: otherwise, we would have starved!

Stephanie Arsenault Billingsgate is, and always has been, my family’s choice for buying seafood. I remember going there as a child, picking out a lobster from the tank and inspecting the netted bags of mussels. Not much has changed, and it remains a great, local option for fresh seafood. My pick: smelts! These little fishes are great when dredged in seasoned flour, and then cooked on a cast iron pan in a little bit of grape seed oil; finish with a splash of lemon, and eat whole!

Meaghan O’Brien North Sea Fish Market is a big favourite of mine because of their exotic selection of fish and seafood. Any fish or seafood that is difficult to find around the city can usually be discovered at North Sea Fish Market. Everything from swordfish to lobster tails and bacon-wrapped scallops are available at the market, and the staff is always eager to help. Karen Miller As far as buying fish, the boys at Boyd’s have been helping me for years.

Heather Kingston I buy my fish at Costco! I buy Atlantic Salmon in large packages, then divide it and put in the freezer. We need the Omega 3 oils in our diet, so I buy in bulk in order to have it two to three times a week.

Dan Clapson My go-to man for the freshest seafood a guy can get his hands on in this town is, without a doubt, Eric Geisbrecht. The man behind Meta4Foods particularly excels in oyster selection. He even taught me how to properly shuck an oyster. What a guy! Thierry Meret For a good plunge in fresh seafood, I personally enjoy chef and fishmonger Brian Plunkett’s Blu Seafood store and booth at the Calgary farmer’s market. Brian’s catch offers a wide range of beautiful fresh fish such as halibut, black cod, scallops, fresh oysters, clams, shrimp and many more wonderful gifts to complement its offering from the sea. As a bonus, from Brian’s decades as professional chef, you can even grab a ready-to-eat fish pie, coquille St Jacques, prepared lobster dishes and more...Beware if you ask him for preparation advice.. his passion may be contagious! Heather Hartmann I cook shrimp as much as anything else, and, of the big grocery chains, I find Superstore has the best selection. Fresh, frozen, shells on, shells off, tails on, tails off, precooked, raw - if you want it, they have it.

Fred Malley My favourites are the fresh crab at Billingsgate, Steelhead at Costco, and they also bring in the large king crab legs. C U LIN A IR EMAGAZIN E .C A

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Classic Canadian Blends

by Heather Kingston, ISG Certified Sommelier Heather is an International Sommelier Guild instructor in Edmonton and Calgary, as well as the Alberta Liquor Store Association’s Wine and Spirit Educator.

Blending is treated with suspicion amongst the wine lovers of the world. The feeling is that all the leftover wines that didn’t quite make the grade get tossed into a vat and viola! “Bargain Bonanza White.” In reality, many wines in the world are a blend of grapes. It is all about complementary flavours, and different characteristics in the wines joining together. More acidic white wine can be blended with richer, full-bodied wines that might have more stone fruit flavours of peach and apricot. White wine in the blend may be oak aged, or kept in stainless steel for a crisper neutral taste. Together, the wines create complexity and interest, which is the purpose of blending. Some of the most famous wines in the world are blends, such as Champagne. Very talented people create signature styles for Champagne houses from different vats and vintages of this quintessential example of blended wine. Indeed, Canadian sparkling wines are made in the same way. Groups of wine tasters gather and sample wines from the

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many vats until a consensus is reached for the blend. It takes a well-trained palate to taste multitudes of wine and reach a house style that is consistent year after year. There is a great possibility you are drinking a blend unwittingly. Wine law in various countries can have an “85% rule”. A wine producer can state the varietal on the label, but have up to 15% other varietals hiding in there, with no need to let the consumer know. Therefore, your chardonnay may have some pinot gris in it. That 15% can make a large impact on the flavour profile. Many times it is done to smooth out the wine, and make it more palatable. To be clear though; this blending is done for enhancement, not duplicity. Here are some blends I recently enjoyed and I have included food suggestions that celebrate white wine. White wines are associated with summer sipping to most of us in Calgary, and pair perfectly with fish, poultry, salads, and mild or spicy ethnic cuisine.


JOIEFARM A Noble Blend 2011 B.C. $32 - $34 Winemaker Heidi Noble’s “A Noble Blend” uses German varietals blended in the style of wines from Alsace, France. These grapes grow well in the climate and soils of British Columbia and are blended to show off the very best each grape has to offer. The varietal percentages of each vintage are adjusted according to the final outcome of the wines. A Noble Blend 2011 is 38% riesling, 33% gewurztraminer, 14% pinot blanc, 11% pinot auxerrois, and 4% schoenberger. It is offdry with low acidity, so for those who find some white wines too acidic, this is the wine for you. It is great on its own, or with appetizers on the deck. Find the Wines

Go to www.liquorconnect.com and type in the wine name in the box on the right hand side. More information is available once the wine information box pops up. You can find the wine within a few kilometers of your house. Call the store to make sure the product is in stock.

Heather’s Picks :::::::::::::::::::: Bartier Scholefield White B.C. $22 - $24 Much talent has been brought together at this custom crush winery. Michael Bartier has been in the Okanagan Valley for a few years now putting his expertise into many great vintages. He was the first person I met who was examining how sunlight affects the grapes in the vineyard. He is very knowledgeable and has a curiosity for all that is wine. This white blend is pinot gris, pinot blanc and sauvignon blanc. It has a fresh acidity and creamy mid-palate, reminiscent of fresh peaches and meyer lemons. This wine is food friendly, and would be ideal with a creative green salad that includes nuts, berries and goat cheese.

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery Steller’s Jay Brut 2007 B.C. $29 - $33 This is a premier Methode Classique sparkling wine, blended from chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot blanc grapes. The finished product, after thirty-six months of aging and hand riddling, is a complex, sophisticated sparkling wine with peach and toasted nut notes. I have served this wine with every course of dinner. It works so well with a variety of dishes because the acidity freshens the palate and the bubbles cleanse. Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series 2 Bench White 2011 B.C. $25-$29 This wine is a blend of 5 different varietals - 52% Chardonnay, 31% Sauvignon Blanc, 11% Viognier, 3% Semillon and 3% Muscat. Four out of the five varietals were planted specifically for this wine, as Tinhorn Creek only have a couple of rows of Muscat! Designed to go with West Coast food, “2 Bench White” has plush tropical flavours of papaya, pears and lemons. The finished wine has weight on the palate without wood, leaving the fruit to show well. The wine has a crisp finish. Here is where ethnic cuisine would be a great match. Henry of Pelham Sibling Rivalry White Ontario $20 - $23 This is a blend of riesling, chardonnay and gewürztraminer. Think of riesling as granny smith apples, chardonnay as peaches and gewurztraminer as sweet lychee fruit. When blended, the wine takes on a pleasing zest. The labeling is very eye-catching and the contents are a solid value. Try this wine chilled, but not refrigerated as the flavours get closed up if wine is too cold. Serve this wine with chicken or fish.

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The Soup Kitchen With Chef, Thierry Meret

Seafood “Bouillabaisse” Serves 5-6

The origin of bouillabaisse comes from the French fishermen of Marseille, who wanted to make a quick meal when they returned to port. They cooked the common rockfish and shellfish that they caught with their nets and lines, along with other seafood that they couldn’t sell, in a cauldron of seawater seasoned with local garlic, tomatoes and fennel, on a wood fire. Impress your friends and family with this elegant recipe; simple to prepare, and on the table in no time at all! Serve with crusty bread to soak up the flavourful broth. 15 mL 1 2 2 2 mL 1 mL 1 mL 1 mL 1 5 mL ½ 1 5 mL 120 mL 200 mL 50 mL 340 g

olive oil small red onion, peeled and finely diced celery stalks, finely diced carrots, peeled and finely diced sea salt ground white pepper ground coriander ground cumin pinch Spanish saffron tomato paste fennel bulb, cored and finely diced red pepper, seeded and finely diced garlic, chopped white wine chicken stock (or vegetable stock) fish stock (optional but recommended) frozen seafood medley (Seaquest)

1. Place the frozen seafood medley in a strainer and place in the refrigerator until thawed. Rinse under cold running water and pat dry. Reserve in the fridge. 2. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan and add the onion, carrot and celery, and cook on medium heat without browning, for 4 minutes. 3. Season with salt and pepper and add all the spices. Cook for another minute. 4. Add the tomato paste and stir well, simmer for 1 minute. 5. Add the diced tomato and mix well, allowing for the moisture to evaporate. 6. Add the fennel and red pepper. Cook for 30 seconds, then add the white wine and bring to a simmer. 7. Add the stocks and bring to a boil, letting the soup simmer for a minute. 8. Add the strained seafood and stir well until the liquid starts to simmer again. Cook briefly for 30 seconds, then cover with a lid and immediately turn off the heat. 9. Allow the flavours of the bouillabaisse to infuse for a minute before serving.

Chef’s tip: Seafood medley can overcook very quickly, and will become tough and rubbery. The cooking time in this recipe is the key ingredient!

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Chilled Mussel and Asparagus Vichyssoise Serves 4-6

There’s a soup for every season and ingredient, and in the summer we want fresh-tasting and cooling dishes that are quick and easy to prepare too. French Chef Thierry Meret shares his favourite chilled soup recipe, using succulent mussels and verdant asparagus that tastes as good as it looks – and it looks delicious! 450 g 15 mL 1 1 1 120 mL 800 mL 150 g 1

Fresh live mussels olive oil small onion, peeled and finely diced bay leaf sprig of thyme white wine chicken stock (or vegetable stock) asparagus, peeled large russet potato peeled and diced

1. Wash the mussels well and if necessary, remove their “beards” with a small knife or by grasping with a dry towel and giving it a sharp tug toward the hinge of the mussel.

5. Using a slotted spoon, remove the mussels from the pot and set aside to cool. 6. Add the stock and the diced potatoes to the pot.

2. Heat the olive oil in a pot large enough to hold the mussels, and gently cook the onion with the bay leaf and thyme without colouring, until soft.

8. Add the asparagus and cook, uncovered, for another 5 minutes.

3. Add the white wine and bring quickly to a boil. Add the drained mussels to the boiling wine and cover with a lid. 4. Cook the mussels, covered, for about 5 minutes or until the mussels are completely opened and the meat is fully exposed. Shaking the pot during cooking will cook the mussels evenly.

Chef’s tip: Chilling the soup very fast will preserve the bright colour and retain all the nutrients.

7. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes.

9. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary. 10. Using a high-speed blender, purée the soup until smooth and strain through a strainer. Immediately place the soup over iced water to cool. 11. Remove the mussel meat from the shells (keep a few in the shell for garnish) and add to the soup. 12. Ladle the soup in to bowls and garnish with grilled asparagus tips and mussels in their shells.


by Heather Hartmann Heather is a writer by trade, and the Calgary Restaurant Examiner. On Facebook and Twitter she’s @DemocraticDiner.

You’ve Come a Long Way, The Greatest Outdoor Show On Earth celebrates a century of food in Calgary. historical photos courtesy of the Calgary Stampede Archives

all other images courtesy of Calgary Stampede Premium Seating

One of the advertisements for the 2012 Centennial Calgary Stampede says “The city that dines together,

stays together.” And how! But do you really understand just how much eating has gone on over the past 100 years? Sure, there are the corndogs and snow cones, minidonuts, deep-fried just about anything you can imagine, and many things you probably can’t (notable items in recent years included jelly beans, and Coke). During the 10 days alone, Stampede Catering serves up 85,000 lbs of protein and 30,000 lbs of produce at over 200 events. Would you believe that’s just a drop in the bucket? During the other 355 days of the year, after most of the city has pulled off their boots and doffed their hats, the Stampede team is still dishing it up, serving 280,000 lbs of food at more than 1,000 events. To give some perspective, that’s 788 lbs of food served at approximately three events per day. Who’s eating it all? Well, in the months leading up to the Stampede, 29,000 guests at 18 high school graduations in 17 days in the BMO Centre, for starters. Their convention facilities, home to popular trade shows and craft fairs, are probably some of their better-known year-round offerings, but Stampede Park is probably the most flexible venue in the city. The Rotary House, located in Weadickville, offers

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an indoor/outdoor option popular for weddings and private VIP events. These diverse facilities have hosted some of our city’s most illustrious guests. “Everybody of any stature in the world has come through our park,” says the Stampede’s Director of Food and Beverage Duane Horpinuk. Notable guests served include U.S. Presidents Clinton and Bush, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, and countless celebrities. You don’t have to be famous to enjoy the royal treatment though. Want to watch the rodeo while your private chef whips up sushi, or hand-carves a 32 ounce bone-in rib steak? Not a problem in the infield suites. You and as many as 49 of your closest friends can get up-close-and-personal watching the rodeo action while dining from a choice of five menus that consist of a carved item, a flambéed item and a ready-made item, along with snacks, desserts, and liquid libations. If you don’t wish to be that close to the dirt, but do want the same level of cuisine and service, consider the private dining clubs in the Grandstand: Ranahan’s, The Lazy S, or the 30X Saloon. Each of these premium venues offers a top-notch view of the rodeo, chuckwagon, and grandstand show action. Forget something? Don’t worry - in the


premium seating venues all requests are accommodated. These can range from typical (running to the midway for cotton candy and minidonuts) to slightly more exotic (bringing in requested wines or liquors) to truly mind-boggling (sending a friend of the Premium Seating team who lived in Vancouver, across the border into Seattle to get Squirt beverages which are only available in the U.S., for a guest)! If the premium seating prices are a bit over your budget (the infield suites start at $3,150), or you didn’t book early enough (they’re full for 2012), oenophiles can still enjoy an upscale atmosphere in the Wine Garden, located in the Western Oasis in the BMO Centre. There, featured winemakers will be presenting their wines daily amongst oneof-a-kind works of art before heading over to offer their vintages at the premium seating venues in the Grandstand. International concierge service and winemakers are a long way from 1912, when the Stampede began. Little is known about the menu from those early years, but some things haven’t changed all that much – current favourites: hotdogs, hamburgers, soft ice cream, candy floss, candy apples and popcorn were all being served prior to World War II. The pancake breakfast is of course another one of the early traditions that endures. The first one took place in 1923, when a chuckwagon driver named Jack Morton was broke and camping at

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the CPR station. Some slightly better-off friends stopped by with ingredients for pancakes, and, as they cooked, the group invited passers-by to join them. Though 100 years later pancake breakfasts remain a fixture, they’ve grown and embraced 21st century technology. At just the Stampedesponsored breakfasts alone, 85,000 guests are served by the Caravan Committee. To help you navigate these and all the other free breakfasts across the city there is now a Flapjack Finder website (www.flapjackfinder.com) and an iPhone app. So who presides over this range of food? Supervision of the 50 full-time, 250 part-time and 1,000 10-day staff is managed by Food and Beverage Director Horpinuk and his immediate team of four. All are long-serving Stampede staff. Horpinuk has been with the organization for 16 years, and Executive Chef Derek Dale even longer, since the 1988 Winter Olympics. When asked what drew him to the Stampede, Horpinuk’s response, “I thought I could do some fun stuff here, and I have,” also explains why they’ve all stayed. Chef Dale echoes that sentiment saying, “It’s like winning the Stanley Cup, completing 100 years!” Indeed, from humble beginnings, the Stampede food scene has evolved with the times to incorporate a local-food initiative, Grown Right. Here, in 2008. The program, which incorporates local Alberta producers such as Spring Creek Beef, is an obvious fit, considering the Stampede’s roots in our province’s agricultural heritage. Chef Dale anticipates the growth of the program, “as long as the farmers can continue to increase the amounts they produce, we’re happy to use as much local product as possible. We’re a big organization, and we can continue to pursue the program and drive the local food movement.” Chef Dale is excited to continue to grow the program, adding that when you know the quality of food from your local producers, “you don’t need to make a big heavy cream sauce, or cover it in truffles.” The centennial has provided a unique opportunity to create celebratory food and beverage items. Making their debut on the midway this year will be the Century Cyclone (pizza in a cone), and the Century Dog, with barbecue sauce baked right into the bun. The Centennial Sandwich is a meat-eatin’ Albertan’s dream featuring local beef, pork, and

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buffalo over a Spolumbo’s sausage in a bun, all topped with coleslaw. Take-home culinary souvenirs include Centennial pancake mix, a habanero sea-salt Bernard Callebaut Centennial chocolate bar, and Centennial coffee. As much as the Stampede is known for food, we all know cowboys like a cold one, and the Stampede has formed some innovative liquor partnerships to toast the Centennial. Township 7 Vineyards and Winery, of British Columbia, has created a Centennial Selection Chardonnay and Merlot. In addition to being included in the on-park catering menu year-round, and in the premium seating venues during the 10 days, the wines will also be available at Willow Park Wines & Spirits, Crowfoot Liquor stores, Andrea Wine and Spirits, and Co-op Wines & Spirits. If you prefer hard liquor, there’s also a Centennial Whisky. You’d think that 100 years of existence, capped off with one hell of a party, might be tiring. Not for the Stampede apparently, whose food and beverage team is already looking forward to the next century. The upcoming Main Street development is intended to be a mix of retail and food and beverage venues, and may even include a hotel. From corn dogs to haute cuisine, the Stampede has been serving up our renowned brand of western hospitality for 100 years, and that’s something all Calgarians can celebrate. Yahoo!


The Step-by-Step to

Cedar Plank Salmon article and photography by Natalie Findlay Natalie only recently arrived in Calgary, where she is developing recipes, writing cookbooks and putting her skills as a food photographer to good use.

If you’ve never tried cooking salmon on a cedar plank it may seem a little strange, but it is an inexpensive and simple way to enjoy the beauty of grilling a salmon without the challenges of it sticking to the grill. The indirect heat helps create a moist final product, infused with the nuances, smokiness and flavours of cedar into the salmon. It’s a great technique to add your culinary arsenal.

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Before you begin, you will need: • a cedar plank (to match the size of your salmon) • salmon • a spray bottle filled with water • barbeque or oven • seasonings


There are 5 steps in making cedar plank salmon: 1. Pre-soaking the cedar plank: Soak the plank in water for 2-6 hours by placing in a container with enough water to cover. Place a weighted object on top to make sure the plank stays submerged. Tip: You can soak planks ahead of time by following the pre-soaking process then storing them in a plastic bag in the freezer. When you are ready to use them, thaw planks by soaking in hot water for 10 minutes. 2. Preparing the barbeque or oven: Pre-heat the oven to 350ºF. If using a barbeque, pre-heat on medium-high. Once it is hot, you can turn down the temperature to reach a steady heat of 350º – 400º F. A low temperature ensures flavour is absorbed into the salmon. 3. Pre-heating the plank: Set the plank on the barbeque or oven grates and pre-heat for 5 minutes at 350º F. 4. Preparing the salmon: Rinse the salmon with cold water and

pat dry. Place the salmon skin side down directly on the plank. Add seasonings such as dry rubs, herbs, citrus, marinades, salt and pepper to your salmon and the plank. 5. Cooking the salmon: Depending on the size of your salmon, it should take 12 - 20 minutes to cook. Keep the barbeque lid closed as much as possible so the salmon captures the smoke from the plank. Check briefly every few minutes to make sure the plank has not caught on fire (not an issue if using an oven). If the plank does catch on fire, use the spray bottle you have on hand to put out the flames. The salmon can be served directly on the plank or removed and placed on a serving plate. Make sure the plank has cooled completely before discarding. If your plank is still in good condition and did not catch on fire, then it can be washed and used once more. Don’t limit your cedar plank to just salmon. Other fishes and shrimp would love to be planked also. Have fun experimenting!

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Holy Smoked! by Linda Garson

photo by Mark Bilodeau

In our seafood issue, we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention Smoked Salmon Vodka from Alaska Distillery, a small-batch distillery in the foothills of the Alaska Range, where they handcraft their spirits using ultra-pure glacier water. They collect icebergs that have broken off the massive ice shield in Prince William Sound, which can pose a threat to shipping if they are lost to the sea, and put them to good use! Smoked Salmon Vodka was crafted to be enjoyed in a Bloody Mary, but Colin Tait and Kai Green, mixologists at Raw Bar, Hotel Arts, have created a special cocktail with it for Culinaire, and share the recipe here for their Mélange Smoked Salmon Cocktail.

1 oz ½ oz ½ oz ½ oz 1 oz 2

Smoked Salmon Vodka Cherry Brandy Bittermens Amère Sauvage Liqueur lemon juice 1:1 simple syrup dashes Fee Brothers Rhubarb Bitters

1. Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass, fill with ice and shake for 15 seconds or until the tin is too cold to touch. 2. Double strain into chilled glass and garnish.

photo by Shannon Johnston Shannon Johnston Photography

>>> get the recipe online! <<<

You can cook with Smoked Salmon Vodka too! It makes a delicious cream sauce for pasta and here Chef Andrew Tsang of Big Fish, on Edmonton Trail, uses it to star in his special Paella. Visit us online at www.culinairemagazine.ca for this sensational recipe!

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Eat Like a Kid Again Summer Food on Sticks by Heather Hartmann

Summer is unfortunately fleeting in this part of the world. We don’t have beach bashes or luaus or clambakes. We do sometimes have snow. The shorter the season is though, the more we appreciate it. It seems that patios in Calgary open at lower temperatures than anywhere else. Though the crowds that mob them the instant they do open prove how excited we adults are about the season, no summers will ever be quite as good as those when we were kids. Growing up, did you live for backyard barbecues? Weiner roasts while camping, or at the lake? Corn dogs and candy apples at the fair? Did you go running for a Revel when the tune from the ice cream truck wafted through your open window? Summer, for kids, means food on sticks. As you’ve grown up since then, your palate probably has too. Still, who says we can’t revisit those delights? Believe it or not, there are more sophisticated spins on virtually all childhood favourites that can allow you to eat like a kid again. There are lots of options for backyard barbecues that elevate ‘stick food.’ You needn’t go farther than our farmers’ markets to find

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something suitably grown-up for grilling. At the Kingsland Market, Kaffir Lime offers their excellent Indonesian fare for both eat-in and take-out. Grab a couple packages of the frozen beef or chicken satay skewers, and you’re good to go. The accompanying house-made peanut sauce is chunky and spicy, with a citrusy, summery hit of lime. Jackson’s Deli, a little farther down the aisle, offers a taste of the tropics in their Maui skewers, available in beef, or for those who want a leaner option, buffalo. Over at the Calgary Famers’ Market, Blu’s offers seafood on sticks, including a nice mild halibut, and a mixed skewer with that same halibut, plus shrimp, salmon and vegetables. Our local grocery stores also have some excellent options. Sobey’s makes multiple varieties of skewers in-store, including: pork leg shish kebab souvlaki, boneless skinless honey garlic chicken shish kebabs, bacon wrapped shrimp, shrimp and scallops, and a fabulous maple barbecue salmon. Safeway features Harvest Meats, a Canadian brand from Yorkton, Saskatchewan. One of their pork shoulders cooked on your rotisserie will definitely be a crowdpleaser. When you want to go even more rustic, revisit the traditional weiner roast, but snazz up your sausage. Bite Groceteria in Inglewood carries bison smokies from local company Valta Farms. If you like a little more foreign flair,


Rocky’s Sausage Haus on Edmonton Trail offers wursts and other European meats. If you’re more the ‘indoor’ type, you can experience the heat of South America at Gaucho or Bolero. Everything except the salad bar is on sticks at these churrascarias (Brazilian steakhouses), ranging from beef tenderloin to sausage and pineapple, all grilled and shaved from skewers by strolling servers. If it’s the Dickie Dee’s man you’re missing, Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut offers all-grown-up ice cream treats including a white chocolate ice cream bar covered in dark chocolate, and a hazelnut ice cream bar covered in chocolate studded with yet more hazelnuts. Calgary vendors offer dessert pops of the non-frozen variety as well. Choklat is the new kid on the scene, with a store in Inglewood and a booth at the Calgary Farmers’ Market. Their chocolate pops dusted with edible glitter are so festive they’ve been given out as wedding favours. Cake pops are all the rage, so much so that there are specific pans and entire cookbooks devoted to baking the miniature morsels. For those of you who aren’t inclined to DIY the venerable Glamorgan Bakery offers them in both chocolate and vanilla flavours. They’re moist and covered in sprinkles, making them appealing to both little and big kids, for birthday or cocktail parties. For those of you reminiscing about fair food, the Calgary

Mini-Donut booth offers corndogs and, of course, their namesake donuts (those aren’t on sticks), year-round in the Calgary Farmers’ Market food court. WURST, the Bavarian restaurant and beer hall in Mission also has a venison corndog on their summer menu. Though it’s a separate trip, the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Company, with locations in Southcentre, Sunridge and Cross Iron Mills shopping centres, offers extreme gourmet candy apples. Some are encrusted with toppings like Oreo cookies and Gummi Bears, while others are turned into cute critters. If your inner child is screaming that an apple is still too healthy to count as dessert, they also offer caramellows - marshmallows on sticks coated with chocolate, caramels, nuts, and other goodies. Consider it an adult s’more. Summer is definitely the season to jump aboard the new Calgary food truck craze if you haven’t already. When you take your appetite to the streets, you’ll find food on sticks aplenty, and how better to eat on the go? Try a pickle on a stick alongside your Alley Burger, or satay from the Happy Truck. Summer is short, and so is childhood. Unless you have kids, or are accompanied by some, your neighbours may look at you sideways if they see you running through the sprinkler, or armed with a water gun. Fortunately, though, there is nothing eyebrow-raising about celebrating the season with food on a stick.


by Chef Thierry Meret Thierry is a professional chef and partner in Cuisine et Chateau, offering classes in Calgary and tours in France at cuisineandchateau.com. His new Culinary Centre opens in Calgary this fall.

Chef’sTips Chef Thierry Meret has talked to some serious seafood-loving chefs and asked them to share their love for the bounty of our oceans and their tips for preparing their favourite dishes.

Chef Dominique Moussu hails from Brittany where he

apprenticed at a Michelin star restaurant after graduating from the Brevet d’Etudes Professionelles. His career took him all over Europe cooking in top luxury hotels, including The Savoy in London. Moussu was also Executive Chef and Managing Partner at TEATRO in Calgary before opening L’Epicerie and then Le Petit Mousse. CHEF’sTIP: “My roots and my soul belong to Brittany therefore to the sea. This shrimp recipe is a good combination of ingredients and quite original with the fiddleheads. It looks like a painting and tastes beautiful. Ginger is always a great addition to the earthy flavour of the fiddlehead”

Spring Asparagus Victoria Shrimp Salad Serves 4

get the recipe: 34

Find this amazing recipe from Chef Moussu online at www.culinairemagazine.ca

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Chef Matthew Batey is the executive chef at Mission

Hill Family Estate’s award-winning Terrace restaurant in the Okanagan valley, certified Ocean Wise since 2007. “I approach cooking as a vocation rather than a job. I love the team aspect and the feeling of satisfaction of a good day or night’s service – and I thrive on the adrenaline rush associated with being busy, having to perform and always looking to improve. As a native of Victoria B.C., I hold a special place in my culinary heart for Mother Nature’s treasures from the oceans! I just love seafood and Arctic Char is a cornerstone of our seafood cookery. It is so versatile and a great alternative to cooking salmon. At Mission Hill, we build our dishes around our wine program, this is where char becomes a star!” CHEF’s TIP: “This particular method of curing really preserves the freshness of the char”.

Melba Toast 1

loaf pumpernickel lemon olive oil fleur de sel

1. Place the pumpernickel in the freezer overnight. 2. Remove and leave at room temperature for 5 minutes. 3. Slice thin then cut into desired shape. 4. Lay the slices on a baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes at 350˚F, or until crispy. 5. Brush with lemon olive oil and season with fleur de sel.

Apricot Mustard Sorbet Citrus Cured Arctic Char with Melba Toast and Apricot Mustard Sorbet Serves 2-4

1 200 g 100 g 1 1 5 mL 5 mL 1

arctic char fillet – cleaned and pin boned salt sugar lemon – zest and juice orange – zest and juice coriander seed – toasted thyme leaves fennel bulb – sliced

1. Mix together the salt, sugar, lemon, orange, coriander seed, thyme and fennel and sprinkle some on the bottom of the pan that you will be curing the arctic char in. 2. Lay the whole fillet skin side down, and pour the rest of the salt mixture on top of the char and leave to cure overnight. 3. Remove the fish and rinse off the excess salt. 4. Pat dry and slice in to 3cm by 3 cm pieces.

200 g apricots (from Mission Hill Family Estate!) 50g Brassica cranberry mustard 30 mL sherry vinegar 100 g sugar 100 g water salt 1. In a blender puree the apricots then add in the cranberry mustard and the sherry vinegar. 2. Boil the sugar and water together then add the apricot mixture and cook for 5 minutes. Season, then chill overnight. 3. Pour the mixture into an ice cream machine and churn until frozen. Garnish with 10 baby arugula leaves

Pair this recipe with:

Mission Hill 2011 Five Vineyards Rosé Okanagan Valley, $15-$18

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Olive Oil Poached Albacore Tuna Serves 6 as an appetizer 450 g 300 - 400mL 250 g 225 g 225 g 6-8 1 6

Albacore tuna loin extra virgin olive oil potatoes, 2 cm diced (use purple, if available) green beans cherry tomatoes, halved black olives, halved lemon quail eggs

For breading the quail eggs you will need: 15 mL 1 60 mL

flour egg combined with 15 mL milk breadcrumbs

Herb Oil 15 mL 30 mL 15 mL 5 mL 1 45 mL

each of fresh chopped parsley, chives and mint grainy mustard minced shallots minced garlic minced anchovy olive oil (use the cooled oil from the tuna)

Lemon Yogurt 50 g 1

Plain yogurt lemon, zest and juice

1. Season the tuna and leave at room temperature for 20 minutes. 2. Heat the olive oil to 106-110°F (41-43°C) in a container big enough to hold the tuna submerged. You’ll need an accurate thermometer for this. Place the tuna in the oil and maintain the temperature until the tuna has reached an internal temperature of 105°F (40°C). This should take about 30 minutes. Serve immediately or cool quickly. Pair this recipe with:

Artadi 2011 Artazuri Rosado DO Navarra, Spain, $30-$33

DAB Original

500 mL $2.50-$3.50

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With 25 years experience, for the last two years Chef Scott Pohorelic has been budding new talent as a culinary instructor at SAIT, where he shares his beliefs and passion with his students. He developed an understanding of sustainability issues during his 11 years at River Café, and is a strong advocate for local growers and the flavours of Alberta. CHEF’s TIP: “This tuna recipe is a play on the classic Niçoise salad. I love to use albacore because it is the most sustainable choice in the tuna family. It is quite lean and has a tendency to be very dry when cooked, so it is more commonly served raw or very rare. This recipe delicately poaches the tuna at fairly precise temperatures. Accurate digital thermometers are available for very reasonable prices now and I believe that owning one is essential to being a great cook .The vinaigrette for the recipe is made in two parts that are combined on the plate. By keeping the acid separate from the herbs they will stay brilliant green and look fantastic”.

While the tuna is cooking: 1. Cook the green beans for 3 minutes in boiling water and then cool in ice water. 2. Place the potatoes in cold salted water and bring to a simmer. Cook until tender, then drain and cool. 3. Boil the quail eggs for exactly two minutes, then cool in ice water immediately. Peel them very carefully, then bread them by coating in flour, then dipping in the egg/milk mixture and finally tossing in the breadcrumbs. Reserve. 4. Combine all the herb oil ingredients together and refrigerate. 5. Combine yogurt and lemon together and season with salt and pepper To Assemble: 1. Toss the potatoes, tomatoes, green beans and olives with a touch of fresh lemon juice and season. Place on 6 plates. 2. Slice the tuna into slices about ½ cm thick and place on the vegetables. 3. Drizzle the Herb Oil and the Lemon Yogurt over the salads and around the plates. 4. Deep-fry the quail eggs at 375°F for 2 minutes until golden and place one egg on each plate. The egg yolk should still be soft.


Chef Jason Boyd has a passion for seafood that has

been into the family for a long time. By the age of 16, he already knew what he wanted to do and by 18, he became part owner of Boyd’s seafood. His passion for cooking took him to Catch restaurant and after three years working there with Chef Michael Noble, Chef Boyd had the opportunity to join SAIT and to share his love and knowledge of crafting passion. CHEF’s TIP: “I love this recipe and technique from when I worked at Catch. We did not add any breadcrumbs or broken crackers to help the ingredients bind. We would use scallops and make a mousseline. Think of it as puréed scallops, egg yolks (adds richness) and white wine. The texture and consistency adds “glue-power” when mixed with the crab, vegetables and herbs. It also gives us the satisfaction of serving a 100% seafood crab cake.”

Pure Seafood Crab Cakes Serves 4 450 g 450 g 1/2 1/2 1/2 500 g 4 150 mL 80 mL 80 mL

Dungeness crab meat blue crab meat red pepper, very finely chopped bulb fennel very finely chopped leek, light green and white only, very finely chopped scallops egg yolks white wine cilantro, chopped flat leaf parsley salt and pepper Canola or grape seed oil for frying

1. Thaw the crab if frozen, and squeeze to help remove extra liquid (extra liquid = crab cakes that easily fall apart). Place in a large bowl in the cooler. 2. Sauté the red pepper, fennel and leek on medium heat with a bit of oil, just to sweat them, not caramelize. Add vegetables to crab and keep in the cooler. 3. Purée scallops, egg yolks and white wine in a food processor till smooth. The mixture should be very sticky, which will help everything bind together. Add to the crab.

4. Chop the herbs and add to the crab. Now everything is very cold in the bowl, the mixture will stay firmer and easier to shape. 5. Mix together very well with your hands. Mixture should be quite sticky. Too wet = can’t hold it’s shape, too loose; Too dry = fall apart; Balanced = snowball consistency 6. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper to suit your palate. 7. Decide what size crab cake will be served. Can be a small one-bite canapé or the size of a burger patty (crab cake burgers are fabulous with this recipe as well). An ice cream scoop works great and equals same cooking time and consistent presentation (signs of a good Chef). 8. Bread the cakes. With the texture of this mixture, I’ve breaded my portioned crab cakes with Corn Flake crumbs, Panko (Japanese dehydrated breadcrumbs - excellent), regular breadcrumbs, I’ve even processed wasabi peas to breadcrumb texture. Note: with this crab cake mix, I have not found it necessary to bread with flour, egg wash then breadcrumbs. You can if you are looking for a really solid crust, but I just go right to the breading, add a bit of pressure to the crab cake and shake off the excess. 9. Pan-fry with a generous amount of oil so it comes halfway up the crab cake. When golden brown, flip over away from you so you don’t get splattered, and cook the other side. Place on paper towel and season with salt right away.

Pair this recipe with:

Bartier Scholefield White B.C., $22 - $24

Innis & Gunn Original 330 mL $3-$4

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The Difference Between Ocean Educated &

Ocean Wise by Stephanie Arsenault

Stephanie is a freelance writer and photographer, social media expert, and the creator of the food blog GlobalDish.ca, which features many of her recipes and tips.

Have you ever looked at a menu, seen the Ocean Wise symbol next to a seafood dish, and thought – what does that mean? You know it’s a good thing, but chances are, you may not know why. The Ocean Wise program, launched in January 2005 by helps by identifying what is sustainable, and then assists the Vancouver Aquarium, is an effort to stop over-fishing the partners in sourcing it. They also help their partners (and subsequent damage to fragile ecosystems) in both figure out which species they should or shouldn’t carry; salt and fresh bodies of water. In turn, they hope to make for example, black tiger prawns, rock crab, sole, sea retailers, restaurants, and consumers more aware of the scallops, ahi tuna, and squid are among the top items seafood they are purchasing, while making dining on removed from Ocean Wise partner’s menus because of their seafood more ocean-friendly. unsustainability. Evidently, consumers and retailers were immediately While the program is currently just in Canada, many other pleased with the goal of the program, as the Vancouver countries have reached out with an interest to get involved. Aquarium’s founding co-partner, C Restaurant, was joined France has a program modeled after the Canadian one, by 15 other restaurants (including Cactus Club Café, and Ocean Wise is currently working with the Australian Provence Marinaside, and Blue Water Café) and a local Conservation Foundation on Ocean Wise Australia, which market just four months after the launch. kicked off in 2007. After an overwhelming demand, in 2009 Ocean Wise Of course, as a consumer you can take measures of your opened up the program to the rest of the country. Now own to reduce over-fishing. McDermid first and foremost there are over 450 partners in over suggests supporting local Ocean Wise 2,800 locations – including 48 in partners (check out their website, >>> DEFINITION <<< Calgary alone. “Ocean Wise has been www.oceanwise.ca, for markets, Suatainable Seafood: growing at an enormous rate,” says restaurants, and other retailers in Mike McDermid, Ocean Wise Partner Calgary and area). When you’re at a How is it decided what species Relation Manager, “literally doubling restaurant, look for the Ocean Wise are sustainable versus those every year.” symbol next to menu items. that aren’t? Ocean Wise defines So what does it mean to be an You can also download Ocean sustainable seafood as “species Ocean Wise partner? According Wise’s free app from the iTunes store; that are caught or farmed in a way to McDermid, one of the biggest the app makes it simple to find oceanthat ensures the long-term health challenges for businesses is knowing friendly restaurants and stores, and and stability of that species, as well which types of seafood are viable, will help make educated decisions as the greater marine ecosystem.” and where to buy them. Ocean Wise when it comes to buying seafood.

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SEAFOOD PAIRINGS DONE

By The Book by Tom Firth

You may suspect it, but working on any book is hard work. I found out for myself a hint of just how much work it takes a few years ago.

My name had been passed along by a mutual friend to Jane Mundy, a writer based out of Vancouver, as someone who might be able to help out with the wine pairings for Jane’s upcoming seafood-themed cookbook. The book was to be about sustainable seafood and would bear the Ocean Wise name. Jane was compiling and editing the recipes, which would be coming to her from chefs, foodies, and gourmands from all across the country. In a perfect world, the recipes would also come with a wine pairing or two. So my role was to “fill in the blanks” and choose wines to complement the recipes. Sounds easy, right? It was until I started getting file after file after file of recipes. Being from landlocked Calgary, many of these dishes had ingredients I had never even had a taste of (...or never wanted to taste! Have you seen what some of those things look like? Geoduck?... Seriously??!!). Our goal with the pairings was to try and select wines that, in keeping with the sustainable tone of the book, would at least be sourced a little closer to home, so unless chef recommended an international wine, we tried to pick something Canadian. Where do you start in selecting wines to go with seafood? Regarding the basics, you generally want to avoid tannic wines. Too much tannin from heavy red or oaky white wines tends to make a lot of seafood taste “tinny”, and usually you want to look for wines that have higher acids such as sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. Lightly oaked to un-oaked chardonnay can work very well with some dishes, and Mediterranean wine regions such as Greece produce plenty of wines that are great with a little fruits de mer. Don’t forget a nice lager or ale, which, aside from pairing with fish and chips, manages to go well with a wide range of seafood appetizers and soups. I’m fortunate that I try a lot of quality Canadian wines each year and judge at the Canadian Wine Awards, but it’s very hard to find 240 wine picks for around 120 recipes and manage to keep the selections well thought out. It took a lot of seafoodthemed dining, talking to chefs, sommeliers, friends, and digging through food and wine reference books to get through them all. On the bright side, it also took a lot of eating well and drinking well. So would I do it again? In a heartbeat.

>>>> Reader Competition! <<<< We have a copy of the superb 328-page Ocean Wise Cookbook for the lucky winner of our Ocean Wise competition! We want to hear about your most memorable seafood experience in Calgary. Go to www.culinairemagazine.ca and click on CONTESTS for full details and tell us all about it! We can’t wait to hear from you. Good luck! The Ocean Wise Cookbook: Seafood Recipes That Are Good For The Planet published by Whitecap Books, $34.95


by David Nuttall and Meaghan O’Brien Meaghan is a self-proclaimed beer enthusiast with an extensive background in the food and beverage industry, although she can now be found in Marketing working on projects with designers.

Summer Beers Light, Crisp, Refreshing ... Liquid Sunshine!

The season all Calgarians have been looking forward to since October is finally here! Patios, backyard parties, barbequing, and that’s right - thirst quenching beer. These are all signs that summer has arrived in the city. And with every warm summer day comes another refreshing beer to try. The light lager and pilsner styles of beer are the most imitated and mass-produced beers on the planet, and are the dominant beers on every continent. The options are plentiful when it comes to thirst-slaking beers, and for those beer lovers that enjoy full-flavoured beer, taste does not always have to be sacrificed, as there are many light beers with tons of tastebud titillating flavours. Many of the typical light beers available largely consist of rice or corn (to reference May 2012 issue), and chances are that these light, very easy-drinking domestic brews were the beers you drank before you were old enough to expand your drinking horizons. The light lagers of the world are typical for drinking after a hot day on the golf course, at backyard barbeques, baseball games and are popularly drunk to quench thirst and to enjoy a nice light and refreshing pint on a patio. Coors Light and Bud Light are certainly two of the best-known Lite American Lagers. Since this style of beer doesn’t have a distinct flavour, they are commonly produced with

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the addition of fruit juices/syrups, tomato or clamato juice, and other flavours. Everyone loves to doctor these beers with their favourite flavourings, and seems to have their own recipe. Try spicing up any light lager with clamato juice, salt and lime for a beverage known as a “Mexican Chelada”. Standard American lager, including such well-known brands as Pabst Blue Ribbon, Budweiser, and Labatt’s Blue, are very clear, and do not have much yeast or hop character. Premium American Lagers such as Miller Genuine Draft, Stella Artois, Red Stripe, Birra Moretti and Corona Extra have slightly more


flavour than the Standard/Lite lagers. Corona is one of many Latin American beers that is ideal with a wedge of lemon or lime, and is a go-to summer beer for many. This style of beers became popular in Latin America originally because of the many Germans breweries established there in the 1800s. Munich Helles lagers have slightly more body than Lite and Standard American lagers, and a maltier flavour, without being overly sweet. Paulaner Premium Lager is a deliciously malty German Munich Helles, and this lovely straw-coloured lager is crisp and easy to drink. Dortmunder Exports are more flavourful than Standard/Lite American lagers with a good balance of malt and hops. The body is medium weight with just a slight sweetness, unlike the lighter lagers. Dab Original and Ayinger Jahrhundert are good examples of this type of beer. These lighter lagers allow for easy pairing with almost any fresh summer dish, since they are not really over-ridden with many

flavour notes. The benefit with pairing beer and food is that they can be paired to contrast or to complement. Mix these ones with grilled or breaded halibut fillet, seasoned with lemon, dill, salt and pepper, or with a crisp green salad topped with your favourite veggies and balsamic vinaigrette. Since Dortmunder Exports are slightly higher in alcohol and a little more hoppy, they fare very well with bolder dishes, such as stronger flavoured fish like salmon and rainbow trout. Next in the flavour profile is Pilsner, which was actually invented, rather than being a result of evolution, in the town of Pilsen, Bohemia (now Czech Republic), in 1842. Though this style is also an easy-drinking, refreshing and thirst-quenching beer, it has more spicy characteristics and bitterness than light lagers. The first ever Bohemian Pilsner, Pilsner Urquell (which means â&#x20AC;&#x153;originalâ&#x20AC;?) is probably the most imitated beer brewed today. Brewers in Bohemia developed a newfound knowledge of yeast in the early 1800s at a time that beer quality was deteriorating. As a result of their

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knowledge and a shift in the way yeast would be used in the brewing process, in 1838 the brewers went to the town square and dumped 36 barrels of beer that they deemed undrinkable outside city hall. This event changed the recipe of Bohemian Pilsners, and high quality brews continue to come out of the Czech Republic. The spiciness and aroma of the beer comes from a unique local hop called Saaz, and the softness on the palate from the incredibly low mineral content of Pilsen water. Use of other hops and water supplies by imitators are the reason other Pilsners don’t taste the same as (or in some cases, even come close to) Pilsner Urquell. However, other excellent versions of these rich, malty yet bitter and floral beers are available locally; Zlaty Bazant Golden Pheasant, Czech Mate from Paddock Wood Brewing Company, and Budweiser Budvar (Czechvar in the United States and Canada), to name a few. German Pilsners, such as Holsten Pils and Bitburger, are the most bitter of the various styles of Pilsners, and drier with floral aromas. They have a subtle earthiness with a very pleasant bite, or kick, throughout, but are most dominant in the finish, with a lingering aftertaste. This accentuated bitterness comes from the hops, and a true German Pilsner uses German noble hops. Tree Brewing Company of Kelowna brews a medium-bodied European Pilsner, Kelowna Pilsner, that is crisp and malty with just a hint of hops. Pilsners made in the European style but with ingredients native to America, are called Classic American Pilsners. They can be found in some homebrews as well as the occasional microbreweries, and add a different twist to the traditional Pilsner by using American hops and grain. These gorgeous pale yellow beers are very versatile and pair wonderfully with spicy dishes despite their lightto-medium body; the bitterness cuts right through the spiciness in food. They also pair well with many summer barbeque foods, from burgers to spicy sausage, and glazed ribs. A dish to try with one of these Pilsners that is sure to impress your guests is barbequed oysters, grilled in their shell with a spicy butter and garlic sauce as an appetizer, and seafood linguine as a main dish. Another great light-tasting beer is Kolsch. Originally from Cologne, Germany, it has become a popular style of beer for North American craft breweries when they want a lighter, yet flavourful

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beer in their portfolio. Although the originals from Cologne never seem to make it here, Mt. Begbie Kolsch from Revelstoke, B.C. is available in both cans and on tap. Paddock Wood Melonhead (the melon refers to the fruit that some Saskatchewan Roughriders fans wear proudly on their, um, melons, not the flavour of the beer) is also a summer seasonal from this Saskatoon-based brewery. With a nice balance between the malt and a soft hop flavour with almost no harshness, this extremely pale beer makes a great patio drink. If you like a refreshing beer with a little more colour, try Cream Ale. Really just an ale version of North American lager, Sleeman’s Cream Ale is the most popular beer of this style locally. Blonde Ales are also very similar in colour and bitterness. These beer types often use as much as 20-25% wheat or corn adjuncts, but are usually filtered to achieve a clean, clear look that is essential for this style. Since many of these beers are only made seasonally, look for those beers which have “summer” in their names; chances are that they are true to one of these styles. Now that summer is here, go visit your local shop and pick up several of these beers, chill properly, and enjoy them on your patio or deck while you can. October will return sooner than you think.


“I’s the b’y that hates the fish...” by Jeff Collins Jeff retired from a 30 year career with CBC Radio in the summer of 2009. He is an avid target shooter and hunter, and an enthusiastic, if not entirely competent, cook.

If you live anywhere in Calgary, chances are you have a Newfie neighbour. You’ll hear that lilting accent behind you in the supermarket line-up, and turn, expecting Rex Murphy or Rick Mercer. Instead, it’s the guy down the street. Introduce yourself. Newfoundlanders have a well-deserved reputation as good neighbours. We have been migrating west for decades. According to Statistics Canada, when I took off for college in Toronto in 1973, I was one of 15,852 “out-migrants”. I became a fulltime mainlander, and I brought with me some cultural baggage. I didn’t like seafood in any form. Growing up in Newfoundland, we ate fish every Friday. It was both a religious and an economic obligation. Catholic Canon Law still obliges members of the faith to abstain from meat on Fridays. It was also seen in my day as showing your support for the Newfoundland fishery and all the fishers and fish plant workers who made a living from it. Now you would think we had an abundance of fresh fish from which to choose, but it was not so. Most of the fish was harvested, filleted, frozen, and shipped to the “mainland” as quickly as possible.

What was left for the locals were poorer quality cuts, unless you had the courage to go down to the water front and buy a whole fish from one of the fishermen with a wheelbarrow full of cod sloshing around in filthy seawater. My Mom lacked both time, and courage. Her weekly solution to the “fish on Friday” dictum from her church was a dish my sister derides to this day as “Cod Tails In Ketchup”. “Tails”, because surely no other parts of the fish had that many bones! “Ketchup”, because Mom would roast them in a light tomato sauce. And roast she did. The dish would be placed in a hot oven after lunch and forgotten about until suppertime. Mom wanted to make sure any parasitic cod worms died from the heat. Taste and texture were the more prominent victims of this technique. I had to leave Newfoundland to begin the long journey to becoming a lover of seafood. I lived in a college residence in downtown Toronto

between 1973 and 1976. Nearby was Fran’s Restaurant. Every Friday it offered all the fish and chips you could eat for under five dollars. Irresistible to hollow-legged, penny pinching, college kids. Later, in Saint John, New Brunswick, Grannan’s Restaurant introduced me to oysters on the half shell and steamed clams. By the time I made it to Calgary in 1987, I was hooked. The budding romance did become strained when I was introduced to sushi by CBC colleagues in Vancouver. I mistook the dollop of wasabi for a decorative piece of avocado. So I ate it. I have since learned to mix my wasabi with a bit of soy sauce, and to enjoy both raw and properly cooked seafood. But the memory of “Cod Tails In Ketchup” still lingers. If you invite your Newfie neighbour over for dinner, here’s how to leave him homesick and horrified at the same time. Feed ‘im a bit of fish, bye!

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A Great

Catch

by Fred Malley, CCC photos by Natalie Findlay and Fred Malley, CCC Fred has instructed for over 30 years. He validates Individual Learning Modules for Alberta Apprenticeship for the trade of Cook and directs The Alberta Junior Chef Challenge.

Seafood in a prairie city best known for its AAA beef? You bet! Calgary has a large appetite for fish, especially fresh. The volume of fish sold in this landlocked city is astounding.

Catch & the Oyster Bar is not the first restaurant in Calgary to specialize in seafood; some of you will remember Lonnie’s back in the 80’s. Yes, they had to have some beef on the menu too. Chef Kyle Groves is the disarmingly relaxed, fresh-faced Executive Chef at the helm of one of the city’s top restaurants, Catch & the Oyster Bar. Chef Groves has come a long way since I first encountered him as a bright student at SAIT. He possesses an impressive pedigree; a local lad who systematically climbed the culinary ladder and did some time in Europe. His first job was at a Dairy Queen; The Oyster Bar has a burger on the menu (and steak too). He has been the Executive Chef for 2 years now and according to Catch server Jessica, Chef Groves is gentle, even-tempered, generous and kind. Catch & the Oyster Bar opened to much fanfare ten years ago; late, as most restaurants here seem to be. Michael Noble, from the Metropolitan Hotel in Vancouver, was the Executive Chef, followed by Brad Horen and Hayato Okamitsu. Initially costing over $5.8 million to build; the restaurant is on the corner of 8th Avenue and Centre Street SW in a heritage sandstone

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building incorporated into the Hyatt Hotel. It has recently undergone a multi-million dollar refurbishment to update and refresh the interiors, and add lounge space in the soaring lobby of the Hyatt. There are three components to the restaurant: a casual and relaxed Oyster Bar on street level, Catch Restaurant, for an elegant bistro atmosphere, on the second level with a killer wine room and list (the walls are lined with wine), and soon-to-open new lounge plus a third level atrium for functions. The prep kitchen and pastry shop are in the basement – and the chefs are wary of getting stuck in the elevator. A herb garden grows on the roof in the summer months. The oyster selection in the Oyster Bar is extensive and product is sourced daily. You can sit with wine in hand and watch the chefs prepare your dish. Kyle skilfully opened a tasting selection of a dozen Caraquette, Shippigan (my favourite- rich


Scallop Carpaccio Serves 2 as a small appetizer 5 Scallops

(preferably larger Qualicum Beach Scallops)

1 Juice of lime 1 1/2 Juice of orange 1 Juice of lemon 1 Juice of Grapefruit Maldon sea salt, few flakes Extra virgin olive oil, drizzle 1. Thinly slice the scallops into coins about 4mm thick, and place in a non-corrosive dish. 2. Combine the citrus juices and completely submerge the scallops in the juice. 3. Marinate in the fridge for 15 minutes. 4. Remove the scallops, arrange on plates and garnish with Maldon sea salt and extra-virgin olive oil. and buttery), Kumomoto, and Pickle Point oysters for me to enjoy with a crisp Chablis. Accompanied with mignonette, chilli oil and fresh grated horseradish, it was a satisfying afternoon snack. Fresh is the mantra and it arrives daily. Chef Grovesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; objective is to have the entire fish and seafood menu Ocean Wise in the coming year. Catch was the first restaurant in Canada to have Ocean Wise squid on the menu. You can tuck into wild caught salmon, halibut, BC Ling Cod, BC Albacore Tuna, Qualicum Beach Scallops, line caught mahi mahi, plus crab, lobster, pickerel, arctic char, clams and of course, moules frites.

If you like a bit more spice, sprinkle finely chopped jalapeno peppers or Thai chilies on top of the scallops. Chef Groves thinks Rocky Gully Dry Riesling, Western Australia $19 - $21 and Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, Burgundy $80 - $84 would pair well with the scallop carpaccio, and for a beer pairing he recommends Granville Island Cypress Honey Lager, B.C.

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Kyle, what was your journey to where you are today? “I always enjoyed cooking. After the stint at DQ, I worked at a golf club before joining Earl’s Westhills full time and completed my apprenticeship. I took a break to study Policy Studies at Mount Royal College before joining Catch as a cook under Brad Horen. The travel bug caught me and I went to Edinburgh for a year to the Scotsman Hotel on the Royal Mile. Another year followed in London at Michelin star L’Escargot in Soho and 1 Lombard Street. You barely make enough money to survive there! Then, back home to work with Giuseppe Di Gennaro at Capo for a year. My fondest and most painful memories are there. When Hayato Okamitsu called me to see if I was interested in a job at Catch again as the Oyster Bar Chef, I rejoined and was soon promoted to Restaurant Chef. Hayato left to join SAIT and I was offered the Executive Chef position”. What is your food philosophy? ‘I believe that food must be true to itself. Simple flavours, not manipulated, keep it in its natural state as much as possible. Not too many ingredients and pure ones. Whimsy in moderation; for example, Lobster and Corn Chowder, with popcorn powder added tableside’. Who are your mentors? “Glen Edwards of Earl’s for his people skills, Hayato Okamitsu for cuisine and competitions, Giuseppe Di Gennaro for how to run a business and Dan Norcott, the Chef de Cuisine at Charcut Roast House”. There is diversity to his choices and interestingly, they are all in Calgary. What is your most memorable moment to date? “I was working at Capo and we had a particularly rough service. It was 2 am before we left to go home, still in our uniforms. I offered to drive some of the cooks home and had just dropped the last guy off. I drove up to a Check Stop and the officer asked, “Anything to drink”, to which I quickly replied, “No chef!” He chuckled and I was on my way!

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What stands out as being the best experience? “When staff get hired into a new growth position elsewhere. It’s rewarding to be part of someone’s development. I recently lost Peter Swarbrick to Ox and Angela, which is great for him.” What do you do when you are not at Catch? “I spend a lot of time at work and I am pretty food-centric. I enjoy eating at different restaurants. When I do have time off, I like to hike in the mountains. And I have found a special someone……”. He recently spent a week’s holiday fishing spot prawns on the west coast. What ingredient can’t you live without? “Actually, it’s a few. Lemons, good olive oil, fresh mozzarella, triple cream Brie and broccolini.” What is your current restaurant to go back to? “Blink” (down the street on 8th Avenue) Which restaurants do you consider among the best in the world, currently? “Martin Wishart in Edinburgh and L’Abbatoir in Vancouver”. The last Sunday in May celebrated Catch & the Oyster Bar’s 10th anniversary with a bubbly and hors d’oeuvre reception in the afternoon, followed by a lobster feast in the evening. For those lucky enough to attend, it was a fabulous way to spend the latter part of the day. The festive atmosphere sated many appetites and brought many long-time customers, former chefs and foodies together. The down-home music from the live band had patrons dancing the jig. Between passed morsels of tuna tataki, albacore melts, smoked salmon, oysters Rockefeller, chilled half lobsters, jumbo shrimp, mussels, clams, fresh shucked oysters and Dungeness crab, some excellent wines were available from the Wagner brothers of Caymus roots. Joe makes a fruity Pinot Noir blend called Meiomi, while Charlie II makes Mer Soleil, an unoaked chardonnay fermented in cement casks and bottled in cement. Look for them!


Thai Curry Mussels Serves 2

Chef Groves’ choice for wine to pair with Thai Curry Mussels is Cascina Adelaide Langhe Bianco DOC, Piedmont, Italy $24 - $26 and Wild Rose Brewery Hefeweizen, Calgary, if you prefer beer.

Sauce (prepared ahead of time)

Mussel Dish

¼ onion 1 garlic clove 10 mL ginger root ½ lemongrass stalk 10 g red Thai curry paste 400 mL coconut milk few sprigs fresh cilantro lime juice fish sauce to season 1. Roughly chop the onion, garlic, ginger and lemongrass (use the back of your knife to break up the lemongrass and release the aromatics). 2. Preheat a saucepan, add the oil and sweat the onion, ginger, garlic and lemongrass, but do not let it colour. 3. Add in the curry paste and sweat for a couple more minutes. 4. Add the coconut milk and stir well. Simmer for 20 to 30 minutes until thickened. 5. Take off the heat and add the cilantro sprigs; let steep for 15 minutes. 6. Strain and season with lime juice and fish sauce. If you do not have fish sauce, use sea salt.

10 mL peanut oil 50 mL onion, diced small 1 kg Oceanwise approved Mussels 250 mL curry sauce 50 mL stock or water 50 mL cilantro, chopped 1. Place the oil and onions in a preheated saucepan. 2. Sweat the onions and then add the mussels. 3. Add in the curry sauce and vegetable stock. 4. Cover with a tight fitting lid and let steam until the mussels are all open, about 3 minutes. 5. Garnish with fresh cilantro and discard any unopened mussels.

READER COMPETITION! Would you like to spend an evening in the kitchen at Catch with Executive Chef, Kyle Groves? You can win this amazing experience to see behind the scenes and how it’s done in one of Calgary’s best restaurants! It will be like having your own private cooking class with some of the best seafood chefs in Calgary! To enter, simply go to www.culinairemagazine.ca and click on contests to tell us the story of your biggest kitchen disaster.

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OpenThatBottle by Linda Garson

photo by Natalie Findlay

Of the 150 wines that don’t move fast in the modest 400-bottle cellar of Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts’ Wine Director, Brad Royale, there are two special bottles secreted away, but the future recipients don’t know about them, so shhhh – keep it secret! Born in Calgary and growing up in Saskatoon, Royale moved to Chateau Lake Louise to work as a server for a couple of years, and it was there, at a staff wine tasting on his day off, that he had his wine epiphany. After the tasting, the wine director came up with a bottle of Haut Brion from around 1994, opening young Royale’s eyes to the concept of “Grand Cru”. He wanted to drink more wine like this so off he went to Banff to buy all the wine books he could find, to learn as much as possible about his newfound interest. Royale later moved to Calgary to study architecture, but it soon became apparent that this was not meant to be, as he was spending all his architecture book money on wine, amassing a considerable collection in the process. Much to his parents’ disappointment, he took a job first at Eau Claire Wine Market, then in 2000 at BIN 905, graduating International Sommeliers Guild (ISG) a year later (he has been judging the final exams for ISG for ten years now and is also a graduate of the Wine & Spirits Education Trust too). In 2003, he opened Divino as Wine Director as well as working at Teatro and River Café, before his current

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appointment with CRMR Properties in 2006. So what is Royale saving for his special occasions? He has two bottles stashed away – both vintage ports. Paradoxically, as Royale spends most on white Burgundy wine, he doesn’t collect or drink much port. But his sister, Lindsay, is going to turn 30 next year, and with that in mind, Royale bought a bottle of Fonseca’s 1983 Vintage Port right at the start of his career at Eau Claire Wine Market while he was learning, all those years ago. Lindsay’s still in Saskatoon and doesn’t know he has it, so don’t tell her! His second special bottle was purchased while he was working at BIN 905. A lady came in to the store who’s husband had passed away and wanted help to sell six bottles of port from the ‘20s to 1977 - and the altruistic Royale bought them all himself. The bottle of Dow’s 1966 Vintage Port is the only one left now and will soon be 50 years old. Royale has been going on an annual fishing trip with old friends for the last ten years, and they all enjoy port – so don’t let them know what’s in store for them in 2016! Shhhhh....!


• •

Menu Gems For a self-proclaimed beef-eating city, Calgary does seafood extremely well! Our contributors are generously sharing their “must try” seafood favourites from some local restaurant menus.

~

Heather ~ Hartmann

I don’t know if I could pick a specific dish, but for sheer variety and quality of seafood dishes, T-Pot China Bistro in Harvest Hills is a winner. I attended a multi-course wedding reception there and we had everything from lobster to jellyfish and abalone. Mentioning these particular dishes, it probably goes without saying, but I’ll say so anyway - it’s also some of the most authentic Chinese I’ve encountered.

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~ Dan Clapson ~

The menu is updated daily at Charcut Roast House, so this dish isn’t always on the menu. Having said that, if you’re lucky to have the option of ordering their Octopus Bolognese, it will not disappoint. The octopus is ground to resemble the (typical) beef in a bolognese and goes perfectly with their sweet tomato sauce.

~ Fred Malley ~ I like the black cod at Milestones.

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Andrew ~ Ferguson

I love the Digby Bay Scallop dishes that Buchanan’s prepares.

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Heather ~ Kingston

The deck at Vin Room, on 4th St SW, is open and lovely on the upper floor taking you away from the street level noise. The seared Arctic Char with zucchini, carrot and radish is artfully crafted and every bite is an indulgence.

~ Karen Miller ~ My favourite fish dish to order is the “Fricassee of Calamari” at Model Milk.

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Stephanie ~ Arsenault

I love the Prawn and Scallop Fettuccine at Murrieta’s in Canmore. It’s a lovely combination of seafood, garlic, chilies, lemon, and pasta that is perfect alongside a nice glass of chilled white wine.

~ Wendy Brownie ~ NOtaBLE’s Halibut on Pureed Fava Beans is my favourite.


~

~ Peter Vetsch ~ I eat fish rarely when I go out to a restaurant, but when I have good fish it sticks in my head more than most meals. The salmon fish & chips at Sea in McKenzie Towne is a stick-in-yourhead sort of dinner: the light crisp breading expertly neutralizes any overt fishiness from the salmon, leaving you with a little more oomph than usual from fish ‘n’ chips without totally breaking the mould. It’s not on the official menu, but it’s a common daily special, and it’s dynamite.

Meaghan ~ O’Brien

I love oysters on the half shell, so I must say I am a sucker for the east coast oysters at Design District Urban Tavern. These are plain and simple but always oh so fresh and tasty from their oyster bar! They come served with a homemade relish and when you pair them with a pint of Brew Brothers Fat Pig, a traditional Czech style golden pilsner, it is the perfect happy hour delicacy!

~ Adrian Bryksa ~ My office used to be near Globefish on 14th Street NW and I would always order the Crispy Spicy Tuna Roll, which is their tuna roll deep fried in tempura batter topped with their signature spicy sauce. The crispy exterior is balanced by the moist rice and raw fish, and the heat from the sauce makes the whole thing sing. Careful with this one, it may quickly become your new sushi obsession!

~ Jeff Collins ~

~ Dan Hertz ~

I was married to a Chilean and I still feel a link to that country and it’s food. The Blue House Cafe at the top on 19th Street NW has an authentic, Chilean, “Paila Marina” that will have you dancing the “Cueca” in sheer delight.

I really like seafood (or fish) congee – a Chinese rice porridge topped with shrimp, squid and octopus. Look for it in traditional Chinese restaurants (downtown or Centre St. N.)

~ Vincci Tsui ~ Whenever my family goes to Shibuya, we always order the Tuna Tataki and the Clam Sakamushi. The Tuna Tataki features thick, meaty slabs of fish that are lightly seared before they are placed in a pool of chili oil and thinlysliced red onion, then topped with fried garlic. The bold flavours from all the different toppings give the mild-tasting tuna a whole new character. The Clam Sakamushi is clams cooked in a light, sake broth flavoured with garlic, scallions and seaweed. Simple but delicious.

~ Linda Garson ~

I love seafood stews and there’s some outstanding dishes to be found in our restaurants, like Villa Maria’s Cioppino, Vero Bistro’s Bouillabaisse, the Paella at Escoba Bistro and the Bouillabaisse at the brand new Downtownfood next door. Since arriving in Canada, I’ve also fallen in love with Arctic Char and there are particularly fine examples to be found at Centini, Thompsons Restaurant, Open Range and The Ranchmen’s Club Dining Room. But then there’s such a great choice of salmon dishes here...and halibut...and scallops...oh yum!

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real men can

Drink

by Tom Firth Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, wine judge, and a member of the National Tasting Panel reviewing wines for Wine Access Magazine.

Whether it’s called rosado, blush, pink, or rosé, this humble wine between white and red rarely gets the respect it deserves. Perhaps it’s the time you spent drinking Baby Duck in your teens, or white zinfandel that, lodged in your brain like your phobia of clowns, simply doesn’t allow you to be seen ordering it in a restaurant or waiting in line holding a bottle at your local liquor store. Easy to pooh-pooh as frivolous or not serious wine, many rosé wines are seriously good. Famed for their food friendliness and yes, their taste, they are the perfect complement for a patio, or summertime entertaining. They can be sweet, and many do contain a little perceptible sugar, but some of the best examples are quite dry and balanced with the acids, rather than syrupy or oversweet. There are a few ways of making rosé wine but arguably the best way is the saignée method. Red grapes are pressed like normal, but the juice is only allowed to remain in contact with the skins (which provide the colour, tannin, and most of the flavour and aroma compounds) for a short time before draining this pink juice away. The fad for rosé hit north American shores in the 1980’s, when Bob Trinchero of Sutter Home made the

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now-famous white zinfandel. This off-dry to sweet pink wine hit palates like a storm and for a long time, I would argue that the average wine consumer had no idea that zinfandel was a red grape. Although white zinfandel was a great success, it is still firmly mired in perceptions that it is a wine for kids (18 years or older!) or prom dates. Ted Seghesio, of the Seghesio winery in California, is well-known for a number of high quality zinfandels, and pointed out a few years ago that it was the interest in white zinfandel that kept zinfandel plantings in the ground in California, when otherwise it would have been pulled up to make room for different grapes. So if you like old vine zinfandel, you owe a small debt to white zinfandel. One of the best things about rosé is its versatility, the minimal skin contact results in


Pink the wine having very little tannins. But the wine should still have some acidity, meaning it pairs with lighter dishes and meats, and the hint of sugar that most have allows the wine to taste good on its own. Rosé pairs with salads, vegetables, barbecued meats, hummus, hot dogs, and duck. Not to mention the great match that is salty McDonald’s fries with white zinfandel. It is also a nice alternative to beer when enjoying ethnic cuisines such as Mexican, Indian, and Szechuan cuisines, and anything with a little spice can be paired with the pink. Serving rosé is easy, and best served from cool to cold. Lighter rosés, such as those made from gamay or pinot noir, should be served on the cooler side, such as straight from the fridge, while those from bigger grapes can be served cool or kept on ice while you work through the bottle. Too cold though and the finer nuances will be very hard to savour. White zinfandel aside, great rosés can be found around the world produced from almost any red grape you can think of. The rosés of Provence for example, capture the attention and travel memories of those who have spent a few summer weeks sipping these wines at riverside cafés and Parisian patios. Australia’s pink moscato, Spain’s rosados made from grenache, the famous French rosé from Tavel, the US, the list goes on and on. Canada itself is well known for making a number of quality rosés, perhaps it’s our short summers and the urge to savour every second of them with a drink in hand. In both BC and Ontario (along with a few from Atlantic Canada), good examples are made from everything from gamay to cabernet. You may have fond memories of your vacation and try to search out “that pink wine” that you sipped and savoured abroad all summer long but, sadly, most of these great rosé wines are only available in the region they were produced in. This is also a case of the context effect of wine; you had a great time enjoying beautiful days, and you elevate the enjoyment of that wine in your memory. So try to remember my humble advice, drink wine in the company of people you enjoy, in a place you want to be – you’ll be a much happier person. A small selection of delicious examples of patio and deck wines are below, in a range of prices and countries. Sleek Spanish rosado, summery Tavel from the Rhône and in the spirit of Canada Day and to celebrate our brief but beautiful summers, a couple sourced from right here at home. Most are quite dry, but feature a touch of sweetness suitable for sipping on their own or with a light nibble. Enjoy!

Tom’s Recommendations

Artadi 2011 Artazuri Rosado DO Navarra, Spain A truly stunning rosé made from 100 percent grenache. Summer fruits, mineral, rock candy, and a little spice and quite dry to boot. Perfect for pork, pasta, seafood, or on its own. $16 - $18 JOIEFarm 2011 Rosé Okanagan Valley Electric in the glass with bright, generous fruits and a restrained sweetness begging you to take another sip. Summer has begun. $30 - $33 Mission Hill 2011 Five Vineyards Rosé Okanagan Valley Berry pink with aromas of raspberry, rock candy, and strawberries. It’s off-dry in the mouth, with some great fruits and tart finish. Drink now, whenever the mood calls. $15 - $18 Marques de Caceres 2010 Rosado Rioja, Spain Easy to find and a heck of a deal, this tempranillobased rosé is leaner and spicier than some others. Raspberry fruits and a lighter body make for a well balanced summer sipper. $13 - $16 Sibling Rivalry 2010 Pink Niagara, Ontario From the folks at Henry of Pelham, this is made for a sweltering afternoon drinking a little pink on the patio. Balanced, crisp, and with some nice raspberry fruits. $19 - $22 M. Chapoutier 2010 Beaurevoir Tavel Rhone Valley, France Grenache based, look for cherry and raspberry fruits, some great minerality, and a touch of apricots. Serve chilled, but not too cold, on its own or with grilled meats or seafood. $22 - $25

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Farmed Fish With the increasing demand for local and organic foods, it’s no surprise that people are starting to look for sustainable seafood on their plates as we become more aware of the impact that our eating habits have on the environment. (On a selfish note, I’m sure we would like to be able to enjoy seafood for years to come!) But is eating foods that are better for the environment better for us too? Salmon seems to be the poster child for the farmed vs. wild debate. Farmed salmon is generally regarded as a big no-no for environmentalists, as they are often raised in open-net systems, which allow for the passage of waste, chemicals and antibiotics into the marine environment. The fish can also escape, causing imbalance in the local ecosystem. Marine life in the surrounding area can get caught in the open nets too. From a nutrition standpoint, wild salmon is a better choice than farmed salmon – it is lower in fat and higher in vitamins A, D and B12. The difference is in what they eat – wild salmon feed on small fish, shrimp and krill, while farmed salmon are fed pellets made with fish oil, fish or plant proteins and other nutrients that try to match the natural diet. However, some studies have shown that fish feed is contaminated with polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) which are synthetic compounds previously used in coolants and lubricants, until they were banned in 1977 due to their toxic effects and ability to persist in the environment for a long time. Farmed salmon are usually fed to satiation every day – while this helps the

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salmon grow faster, helping meet market demand, it leads to a fattier product. In some cases, this means it has more omega-3 fats, but since PCBs accumulate in fat, farmed salmon have been consistently found to have higher levels of PCBs than their wild counterparts. Although wild salmon is better for you and better for the environment, we know that it can be expensive! Many health experts say that the benefits of the omega-3s and other nutrients in farmed salmon outweigh the risks of the trace amounts of PCBs that they may contain. Since tuna is almost always wild, (most grow to several metres long, making it hard to keep!) tuna is never part of the farmed vs. wild debate, but is still a controversial fish in terms of sustainability and nutrition. Part of the confusion stems from the different species of tuna available and the fishing methods used to catch them. SeaChoice, Canada’s largest sustainable seafood program, is very specific about recommending which species (almost all except bluefin), fishing method (usually troll/pole) and origin


vs Fresh by Vincci Tsui Vincci is a registered dietitian with FitNut Consulting in Calgary. She writes about her food adventures at Ceci n’est pas un food blog and is also the food editor for Calgary Is Awesome

are safest to eat. Like salmon, tuna are a lean source of protein rich in heartand brain-healthy omega-3s. They are high in potassium and selenium as well. However, since tuna are quite high on the food chain, they may contain higher levels of methylmercury than other fish. Women who are or may become pregnant, or are breastfeeding, should avoid eating more than 150 g (two Canada’s Food Guide servings) of fresh or frozen tuna per week, while children under 12 should eat even less. To make matters even more confusing, this does not apply to canned light (yellowfin or skipjack) tuna. Since the tuna used in canning are often younger and smaller, they have low methylmercury levels and are safe for consumption. You can skip all this confusion by getting your omega-3s from fish that are lower on the food chain, like sardines and mackerel. When is farmed better than wild? In most cases, when it is shellfish. SeaChoice recommends choosing farmed oysters, clams, mussels and scallops over wild – raising shellfish causes minimal impact to the environment, and in fact can

improve the water quality in the surrounding area as they act as filters. Finfish seem to get all the attention when it comes to health, but shellfish are lean proteins that are great sources of minerals like iron and zinc. A Canada’s Food Guide serving (about 75 g) of oysters has almost three times as much iron as beef, while clams can have up to seven times! There is not much data as to whether farmed or wild shellfish are more nutritious. The only example in the Canadian Nutrient File (2010) is that wild eastern oysters contain more phosphorus, zinc, copper and vitamin A, and less sodium than farmed varieties, so it looks like consumers will have to choose between their health and the environment. Nutrition and sustainability are obviously not the only factors that govern what we eat – there’s cost, accessibility and of course, taste! At the end of the day, it’s up to you to vote with your fork and choose what you want to eat and how you want your food to be produced.

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In Search of the Perfect

Seafood Platter by Adrian Bryksa Adrian strives to answer the mythical query “What makes life taste good?” He is one of the voices behind YYC Wine and has written for Wine Spectator and Good Bottle of Wine.

When you think seafood in Calgary, many people will have an automatic association to downtown restaurants like Catch or to established chain locations like Red Lobster. It was our mission to head off the beaten path and look for establishments that put their own spin on the delicate art of a seafood platter. We selected a Portuguese perspective from Mimo Restaurant on 17th Ave SE and an Italian/Asian fusion view from Vero Bistro Moderne on 10th St NW. We packed our appetites and started off for Forest Lawn in search of Mimo.

Mimo

Nestled just off 48th Street SW in Little Saigon Mall, Mimo has been a staple of Portuguese cuisine in Calgary since 1984. Isabel Da Costa, the family matriarch, tells how back in the ‘80s, she spent thousands of dollars discussing and perfecting her family recipes with her mother, after relocating to Calgary.

Wine List The wine list at Mimo is completely based out of Portugal and consists of 19 selections, with red and white house glass pours at only $6.25. It is one of the only lists recently encountered where no bottle exceeds $50.00. There are some excellent wines here in the form of the seafood-friendly Gazella Vinho Verde for $30.95, the Mateus Rose for $29.95 and the Sogrape Reserva Douro for $44.95 for carnes aves. Corkage service is offered at $21.00 per bottle for guests bringing their own wine.

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Descuba Portugal - $89.95 Translated to “Discover Portugal”, and piled at least 12 centimeters high, this platter is a bounty of lobster, shrimp, clams, squid, mussels and crab legs that is as visually impressive as it is delicious. Served on a bed of broccoli, cauliflower and a lightly spiced broth (Mimo will ask you how spicy you would like your platter), it will easily service three to four hungry seafood lovers - three of us tried and still took some home! As is customary in Portugal, Mimo serves their food with copious amounts of baguette bread to mop up broths and sauces and their seafood platter is no exception. The squid was perfectly cooked with a soft and almost creamy texture. The clams were some of the largest and meatiest encountered in recent dining memory, and the lobster and crab were expertly executed, with the flavours of the meat accentuated by the gentle spicing of the broth. The plating has a rustic appeal and designed to be hands-on and communal. The idea is to roll up your sleeves, dig in with your hands and share the bounty and experience with those you are dining with. For a wine pairing, we chose the 2009 Quinta de Aveleda for $37.95. This is a still, rather than slightly effervescent example of Vinho Verde that showed fresh, light peach flavour and bouquet character. The fruitiness of the wine accentuated the seafood well, and its acidity cut through the oil within the broth.


Vero

Seafood Platter - $128

Located in trendy Kensington in NW Calgary, Vero Bistro Moderne has been presenting its guests with a unique fusion of Italian and Chinese cuisine since 2008. With room for 40 diners and a menu that changes almost every month, Vero is one of the guiding lights for upscale dining in Kensington, under the deft hand of Chef Jenny Chan.

Wine List There has been thought, effort and resources applied to the wine program at Vero. They employ Riedel stemware and an Enomatic machine for keeping four of their glass pours fresh. Wines by the glass range between $9.00 to $15.00 for a 150 ml pour, and for those willing to splurge, the reserve list carries notables like the 2006 Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir and 2003 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia. Vero does not currently offer corkage but it’s something they’re considering for the future.

Coming out of the kitchen, the staff at Vero can’t resist showing this amazing platter off to their guests. The smells of garlic, basil, white wine and seafood permeate the air and once people see it, their sensory receptors light up. This platter of lobster tail, scallops, squid, mussels, clams and seasonal fish can be served in its normal fashion with buttermilk-breaded calamari or gluten-free with grilled squid. The platter is also accompanied with an Aglio e Olio pasta. Chef Jenny indicated that as much effort as possible is put into preparation to ensure that there is never a fishy or rubbery texture to the seafood, which requires ingredient freshness as top priority. The presentation is refined, and it doesn’t place a special requirement on the diner to have special dexterity with seafood utensils. Vero paired the platter with a 2010 Bollini Pinot Grigio, which happens to be the white wine used in the broth. It’s soapy, floral quality on the nose and a hint of sweet Anjou pear complemented the salty, sweetness of the dish well.

While Calgary is just about as far from the sea as one can get, there are several terrific options to enjoy regional interpretations of the bounty of flavours it can offer. We hope we’ve inspired you to visit Mimo, Vero or your local seafood market to assemble your own seafood feast. Buon appetito!

win a dinner!

Visit us online at www.culinairemagazine.ca for a chance to win a gift certificate for an evening out at Vero! See website for details.

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Canadian Whisky Not Your Father’s or Your Grandfather’s Whisky. by Andrew Ferguson Andrew is the In-house Single Malt Scotch expert and co-manager at Kensington Wine Market. His premium whisky tours in Scotland are detailed at fergusonswhiskytours.com

Julian, one of the characters in the offbeat Canadian sitcom “Trailer Park Boys”, is never seen without a glass in his hands. His drink, possibly the most Canadian of mixed drinks, is the simple “rye and coke.” Day, night, home or away, Julian is never without his favourite tipple. It’s not that Julian is mixing “rye” in his drink that is so interesting, but rather the brand that his character has developed a fondness for. He could easily have gone with Crown Royal or Canadian Club, both classic “rye and coke” choices, but no, he is drinking Alberta Premium, the only real rye whisky still made in Canada. Even more curious, is that his choice adds a layer of irony, for even though Alberta Premium is the only true rye whisky, it is possibly the worst choice for a “rye and coke”. Alberta Premium is the only Canadian whisky that completely overpowers the cola. Early Canadian distillers were not, as legend would have us believe, expatriate Scots and Irishman. Rather it was continental Europeans, and mainly the English, who first commercialized whisky distillation in Canada. Foremost among them in the early days were the same Molsons who became synonymous with Canadian brewing. Other notable names include: Corby, Gooderham, Worts and Seagram; all of them English, as Davin de Kergommeaux notes in his newly released book: Canadian Whisky (McClelland & Stewart). United Empire Loyalists, mainly of English origin, also did their share bringing with them knowledge of sour mash techniques from the fledgling United States. Dutch and German setters had great influence too, and most crucially would have influenced the addition of rye to the mash bill. The Germans

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and Dutch had been distilling with rye grain since the 1400s and the crop grew well in Upper and Lower Canada, making it a suitable choice for distillation. Only rarely was rye the principle ingredient in Canadian whiskies, because the flavours it creates are too strong. Like most American whiskies, the principle ingredient in Canadian whisky was, and is, corn. Pure rye whisky is typically very spicy, earthy and oily, and it is used sparingly to flavour blander corn-based whiskies that are blended together. Though seldom the major ingredient, the use of rye in the mash bills of early Canadian whiskies was common enough that Canadian whisky acquired the misleading euphemism “rye”, still commonly used today. Of the nine principal distilleries currently in Canada, Calgary’s Alberta Distillers is the only one producing 100% rye whiskies. Over the course of the 20th Century, the use of the rye grain in Canadian whisky mash bills steadily decreased to the point where some rye whiskies contain little, if any. Along the way the Canadian whisky category shifted to a lighter softer style, using less rye and relying more heavily on corn because it has the highest yields and lowest costs. Canada’s most well-known whisky brands today are made from mash bills containing 90% or more corn, the same bland raw spirit used to produce vodka, gin and other liquors, with traces of barley and small amounts of rye used for flavouring. Canadian whisky developed an international market, particularly in the United States, where light Canadian whisky became popular in American cocktail culture. That many Canadian whiskies are still referred to as “Rye” today owes largely to Canadian law which holds


“Canadian Whisky” and “Rye Whisky” to be synonymous, and where there is no requirement for rye whiskies to actually contain any quantity of rye. But there is change in the air, and Canadian whisky is in for a shakeup! If Canadian whisky’s past involved rye, and its present is dominated by corn, then its future is micro- and artisan distillers who won’t be tied to industry norms. This trend is not new, but just beginning to gather momentum. Glenora distillery in Cape Breton, which makes single malt whisky in the Scottish style, has been doing so for nearly 25 years. The distillery was doggedly pursued in court for almost a decade by the Scotch Whisky Association who spuriously argued that the use of the word “glen” in the distillery’s name (Glenora) and its principal whisky (Glen Breton) misled consumers into thinking they were buying Scotch whisky. Its fortunes have improved in recent years, as have its whiskies. Another of the first wave of small Canadian distilleries is Kittling Ridge on the Niagara Peninsula, which makes whisky

under the label Forty Creek. Forty Creek’s whisky maker and owner John Hall got his start in the wine business, and his is perhaps the only whisky distillery in the world intertwined with an operating winery. The distillery is run eight months of the year and the winery four, both sharing the same cellars for maturation and tanks for fermentation. Forty Creek’s whiskies are like none other in Canada, they are blended from corn, rye and barley all fermented and aged independently, just like the winery’s grape varietals. Canada’s nascent micro-distilling movement is following on the heels of a much larger one in the United States. Three distilleries in British Columbia are already laying down barrels of spirit soon to be sold as whisky (Pemberton, Shelter Point and Victoria Spirits), and a fourth (Dubh Glas) is under construction. Another distillery in Ontario (Still Waters) is also well underway filling its warehouse with casks of single malt and straight rye whisky. This will not be your father’s or grandfather’s Canadian whisky.

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Great White North Distillation Whisky expert, Andrew Ferguson, gives us his top Canadian whisky picks. Alberta Springs 10 Year

Crown Royal XR - Extra Rare

Forty Creek Confederation Oak

Crown Royal Black

A good starting place for Canadian whisky, considering it is one of just a few 100% rye whiskies sold in Canada. Don’t let the low price scare you off; this is tasty stuff, sweet and toffee with dried fruits and soft spice. Alberta Distillers makes world-class whisky, and it is frequently bottled by other brands with huge markups! $24 - $28 Matured in bespoke Canadian oak barrels made from trees that would have been planted around the time of Confederation, the oak, although still American, grew in a cooler more northern clime giving these casks a distinct character. It is a testament to why John Hall is Canada’s most innovative whisky maker. Soft, creamy and subtly sweet, this whisky’s mixed mash bill contains corn and barley with a hefty dose of rye for a spice kick. $65 - $69

Glen Breton 14 Year

Purportedly bottled at cask strength, which had fallen to 43.1% in just 14 years (greedy angels). This is a great improvement on the 10 year whisky of old, and a solid follow up to their commemorative “Battle of the Glens” release which celebrated their legal victory with the Scotch Whisky Association. Made in the Scottish style, this Canadian single malt whisky is soft, but chewy and malty. $104 - $109

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The only Crown Royal expression explicitly not entirely distilled at their massive Gimli distillery. The bottling contains the last of the rare whiskies distilled at Seagrams old Waterloo distillery, which closed largely as a result of a devastating fire in 1993. The palate is woody, a sign of its age, and smooth with strong rye notes and loads of ripe fruit. $178 - $182 Crown Royal’s distillery in Gimli, Manitoba, produces several different styles of whisky that are blended to create the different expressions. This blend employs a higher proportion of rye as well as a healthy dose of a Bourbon-like spirit to create a darker fruitier whisky, reminiscent of Demerara rums. The whisky was matured in heavily charred oak barrels to further enhance the spices and darker elements of the palate. $39 - $41

Wiser’s Legacy

JP Wiser was one of Canada’s most successful whisky makers at the turn of the 20th Century, and this relatively new release is an older style whisky inspired by his original recipe. The mash bill contains a higher content of rye grain than most Wiser’s whiskies and the oak was toasted rather than heavily charred, lending a soft sweet character that allows the spices to shine. $51 - $55

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Danfield’s Limited Edition 21 Year

An example of the undervalued nature of the Canadian whisky, this 21 year old can be had for less than the least expensive 10 year old Scottish single malt. Made almost exclusively from corn it is very soft and creamy. Its producers tout that it is filtered through diamonds, which does absolutely nothing other than sound cool, but this is an exceptionally smooth Canadian whisky. $41 - $45

Centennial Ultra Premium

Made in High River, this was one of the first premium Canadian whiskies on the market. The Master Blender, charged with a task of creating a premium whisky, came up with a recipe involving Canadian winter wheat and rye grains, distilled in small batches and matured for no less than 10 years. The result is a very smooth rich whisky with soft spice. $117 - $122

Pendleton 1910 Canadian Rye Whisky

This 12 year old Canadian whisky was originally only available in Pendleton, Oregon, where it was bottled to celebrate the rodeo’s 100 Anniversary. A 100% rye, there is only one possible distillery of origin... Juicy with tobacco and spicy rye notes, its 12 years in charred American white oak have given it a soft smooth palate. $49 - $53


Seed,Weed & Feed The Kitchen Gardener’s three key rules for July. by Leonard Brown Leonard became a master gardener at the Calgary Zoo in 2002. He grows fruits and vegetables, and enjoys incorporating edibles from his garden with the dishes he prepares.

Seed: Reseeding will maintain ongoing crops of leafy salad vegetables throughout the growing season, and you can achieve repeated harvesting at different stages of leaf development. Time allows fully grown greens to mature, but picking the micro-greens early means that they will be softer and much more palatable than the tougher, thicker and more mature leaves. You could harvest some crops when they’re young, and enjoy incorporating fresh produce into your meals sooner, while leaving others to mature fully. This also applies to fresh herbs. You can snip off the growing tips for immediate use, which will encourage side growth and help the plants to grow well. Weed: It’s important to weed the vegetable beds and to thin out crops for individual plants to maximize their mature size. Weeds compete for space and nutrients, and should be kept to a minimum by hand, preferably without the use of chemicals. You can control weed growth by spraying them with vinegar, as its acidity is often enough to kill off the plant without toxicity. It’s also better to control pests naturally and simply without the use of pesticides when dealing with edible crops. Feed: Organic soil supplementation is important for feeding and fertilizing vegetables, fruit and plants. You will be wellrewarded by using nature’s plant food of healthy, rich, black compost, bone meal or manure. As the garden blooms in different stages, indulge in all the possibilities of edible flowers. After losing popularity for many years, garnishing and cooking with flowers is back in favour again. Their use was common in Roman times as well as

during Queen Victoria’s reign, and also in Chinese, Middle Eastern, and Indian cultures. Today, many chefs and home cooks garnish their dishes with flower blossoms such as rose petals or pansies for a touch of elegance, and this culinary art is enjoying a revival. The secret to success when using such flowers is to keep the dish simple, and not to add too many other flavours that could overpower the delicate taste of the flower. Flowers such as nasturtiums, chives and arugula, have strong unique flavours and should be used when you are looking to add peppery or onion tastes to your dish. Day lily buds are also commonly found and have a subtle “squash-like” flavour. If restaurant meals are garnished with flowers or plant parts, don’t assume that they are edible. Ask to be sure, and use only flowers which were grown organically, as pesticide treated plants can produce contaminated flowers. Always wash the flowers before using and be sure to introduce them into your diet slowly and in small quantities, otherwise digestive complications and adverse reactions may occur. Edible flowers can be refrigerated on a piece of moist paper, and can be stored for up to 10 days for later use. Flowers can also be crystallized for use in desserts, or for decorative use, as a cheese garnish, brewed in hot water to make tea such as rose petal tea, to make syrups, flower butter such as chive, and even frozen as flower ice cubes. I cannot stress the importance of reading to find out which plants and flowers are edible and which are not. Here is a useful link to learn more about edible flowers, how they taste and which to avoid. http://homecooking.about.com/library/ weekly/blflowers.htm Experiment, enjoy and indulge!

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Calgary Calamari: TheTopTrio by Linda Garson

From Greek to Grill, the ubiquitous Calamari seems to appear on the menu of every restaurant and bar in our city. But not all Calamaris are created equally, so here we highlight three completely different, remarkable renditions of succulent squid.

Centini Restaurant

Mimo Portuguese Restaurant

Niko’s Bistro

Centini’s “Pan Seared Calamari Puttanesca” ($16) is a superior meal-in-a-dish of beautifully contrasting textures and colours. Soft whole tiny squid come in a rich, homemade fresh cherry tomato sauce that has a real depth to it and is filled with dried black olives, green red and yellow crunchy pepper strips, anchovies, red onions and garlic, with just a hint of chilli that adds warmth rather than heat to the dish. It’s accompanied by a selection of Centini’s home-baked crackers (Rosemary Sesame are my favourite), and for the full Italian experience, enjoy with a glass of Domodimonti’s elegant LiCoste Pecorino or their rich and silky Déjà from the Passerina grape.

Lulas Grelhadas, literally “Grilled Squid” in Portuguese, are tiny, luscious and almost creamy whole baby squid bodies that are straight grilled before being plunged in an earthy red, and slightly spicy sauce that has you wondering ‘is it made from tomatoes or not?’ ($8.95 lunch, $11.95 dinner). The appetizer portion is eight ‘squidlets’ that come with slices of tomato and a hearty basket of bread for mopping up the addicting terracottacoloured sauce – which we discovered is made from olive oil with lots of lemon, garlic and paprika – and no tomatoes!

Niko’s “Calamari All’Inferno” ($10 lunch, $11 dinner) gives us some indication how his crispy squid with garlic and lemon in spicy tomato sauce will taste! And it’s a delicious combination of thinly sliced rings that have a slight crunch on the outside and a creamy inside, in a warming, dry sauce lifted by the hints of lemon shining through. Niko dusts his ribbon-thin rings with flour and then quickly flash-fries them on high heat before sautéing in his spicy sauce. As this calamari is quite hot, a glass of Santa Margherita Prosecco makes a perfect pairing to cut through the spice and cleanse your palate in preparation for the next mouthful. Niko also recommends Terredora Greco di Tufo or a glass of Peroni beer for the same effect.

160 8 Avenue SE, Calgary 403 269 1600

4909 17 Avenue SE, Calgary 403 235-3377

Hint:

See page 56 to read about Mimo’s other stunning seafood platter!

Hint:

While you’re there, be sure try any of Centini’s 16 pasta dishes, every strand of which is made by hand in the kitchen. From Lobster and Crab Ravioli in a Saffron Cream Sauce ($32) and Black Linguine Bosco e Mare (shrimp, scallops and calamari sautéed with wild mushrooms, olive oil and garlic, $25) to Tagliatelle Paglia e Fieno (“Straw and Hay” pasta with lamb ragu alla Bolognese, $25) and Beef Short Rib Ravioli with Butter and Sage Sauce ($29), and you’ll be smiling secretly all day. Don’t tell anyone but Centini even offer a fantastic value, three-course Business Express lunch from only $18!

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1241 Kensington Road NW, Calgary 403 270 0082

Hint:

Other noteworthy seafood dishes on Niko’s menu include his amazing Coconut Shrimp with sweet chilli dipping sauce, or “Gamberi Sambuca” - tiger prawns in Luxardo Sambuca garlic cream sauce.

NOTE: We couldn’t get to Sea Fish n’ Chips in McKenzie Towne - but we can’t wait to try their “Squid Vicious”! Fabulous name!

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Let’s Get Cocktail Correct by David Nuttall David has been in the liquor and event business forever. He is a qualified beer judge and owner/president of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgary.com, for ten years.

Even though people drink them year round, chilled cocktails really take off in the warmer months. The mixture of alcohol, juice or pop, on ice becomes the perfect summer cooler. But have you ever wondered why some drinks are completely different concoctions in different locations?

Here are the accepted recipes for the original margarita, martini, daiquiri, and mojito.

Margarita 4 parts triple sec 7 parts tequila Coarse salt 3 parts lime juice Mix tequila, triple sec, and lime juice with ice in a shaker. Rub the rim of a chilled cocktail glass with a piece of lime, then dip in a saucer of salt until the rim is evenly coated. Strain Margarita mixture into glass and garnish with a thin slice of lime.

Martini 2 oz. gin ½ oz. dry vermouth Olive or lemon twist Stir gin and vermouth in a mixing glass with plenty of ice and strain into a chilled martini cocktail glass. Garnish with olive or lemon twist.

Daiquiri Most cocktails have unknown origins. While attempts have been made to standardize drinks since the first cocktail books came out in the 1800s, drink recipes have continued to evolve. For example, what was once the simple martini made with gin - is now a vodkabased drink to many. And the so-called vodka martini has branched out even further to become a fruit-juice medley served in a martini glass. Should these drinks even be called martinis? Similarly, the daiquiri and margarita began as stirred or shaken drinks, with a lime juice base, served in a cocktail glass. These days, they have become slushy frozen fruit mixtures served in fish bowl sized glasses. Frozen drinks appear to be the dominant beverage of chain restaurants and faux-Mexican restaurants everywhere, and could be driving real cocktails almost into extinction.

A final observation: if a drink is made with a specific alcohol in the recipe, should it still be called the same name if the alcohol changes? The mojito has been around since the nineteenth century and is made with rum. Is it still a mojito if the rum is changed to vodka? Whisky? Tequila? Where do you draw the line? Is it then just the mint that makes it the mojito? If a drink is significantly altered, maybe it should also have a new name, instead of riding on the coattails of the more popular established name? There are standard recipes for cocktails, so it shouldn’t be a mystery as to what will arrive at your table. Bartenders around the world are encouraged to alter recipes and create new drinks, but it could be good if the originals stuck around, and didn’t disappear under an avalanche of new drinks using their name.

1 part sugar syrup 9 parts white rum 4 parts lime juice Mix all ingredients with cracked ice in a shaker and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

Mojito Several mint sprigs 6 parts lime juice 8 parts white rum 2 tsp. sugar Club Soda Squeeze lime juice into a chilled Collins glass, add sugar and mint, and muddle until sugar is dissolved. Fill glass with crushed ice and pour in rum. Swizzle until glass frosts, adding additional crushed ice and rum as needed, and top off with cold club soda. Garnish with mint sprig and serve with straws.

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The Art Of A Cocktail by Patricia Koyich Patricia is the owner/proprietaria of Il Sogno restaurant. She teaches in the Hotel & Restaurant Program at SAIT, and is Guest Speaker to their Management/Entrepreneurial students.

The title “mixologist”, the passion of the industry that we now call “liquid culture”. Meet Colin Tait and the Pink Port Cocktail from Raw Bar at Hotel Arts Native to Scotland, Tait considers himself lucky to have worked in Edinburgh, where some of the more forward thinking bars and restaurants are. It was his passion that brought him to Canada for its emerging cocktail culture and breadth of talent. Originally cocktails were a mixture of spirits, sugar, water and bitters, but somewhere along the way it has lost this structure and become anything that is mixed with alcohol. Thanks to the emerging breed of “mixologists”, we are rediscovering the “art of the cocktail”, dating back to the 1700s. The pink port cocktail is truly inspired! I love port, but a rosé? One would usually associate port with fall and winter, but hold on to your taste buds because Croft Pink Port is refreshing, lovely and possibly addicting! (CSPC 731509 $19.99) This drink shows versatility of port as a useable cocktail ingredient. It has a sweet side to it, but is balanced out perfectly by the use of the berry gastrique. The vinegar works as a superb souring agent in place of citrus, which would be a more common ingredient. I also like the idea of a gastrique as it demonstrates the more technical side of bartending, and the growing trend of using culinary techniques in craft cocktails, a true mixologist!

Pink Port Cocktail 1.5oz Croft Pink Port 3/4oz Berry shrub/Gastrique 0.5oz cinnamon syrup 1/4oz cassis 1/4oz syrah 1 egg white Orange and 3 skewered blueberries for garnish 1. Add all ingredients to a mixing glass and shake hard for 20-30 seconds 2. Add ice and hard shake for 15-20 seconds, then double strain into an old-fashioned rocks glass with one large ice cube. 3. Garnish with the orange and skewered blueberries

Cinnamon Syrup: Add 3 cinnamon sticks to 1 cup sugar, 1 cup water and bring to the boil, simmer for 3 minutes, let cool, discard the cinnamon sticks bottle and store.

Berry Shrub/Gastrique: 500 mL muddled berries (blueberry & blackberry) 15 mL mace 5 mL cinnamon 60 mL blackberry vinegar 120 mL sugar 1. Place all ingredients in a pan and bring to a boil, simmer for around 10 minutes then let cool, strain and store.

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CU L I N A I R E M A G A Z I NE.CA ● JULY/AUGUST 2 0 1 2

If you have not been to Raw Bar in the summertime you must! Actually, drop what you are doing, phone a friend and head on over. It’s like a mini vacation: poolside cocktails and a great vibe if you are into sunshine (who isn’t after a Calgary winter)? Or a little more romantic and sexy experience in the Raw Bar itself; cozy sleek design, great music and a bar filled with passionate “mixologists”, like Colin. Now, that’s a win, win, win! They have just released their summer cocktail list and I can’t wait to go back! “As bartenders strive to perfect their craft, we will see more quality of choice and thus leaps in patrons’ expectations of the cocktail experience” says Tait. If that’s not a reason to stop in at Raw Bar and see what he is up to next, I am not sure what is. I know I will be!


Culinaire #3 (July/August 2012)  

Calgary's Freshest Food & Beverage Magazine

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