Summer in Denmark: 27 July - 2 August 2012

SUMMER IN DENMARK

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Neighbourhood safari | Frederiksberg

Summer in Denmark: 27 July - 2 August 2012

The city within the city By Elise Beacom

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ROM THE OUTSIDE, Frederiksberg might look like a part of Copenhagen – but this leafy district stands alone, and it’s considered Denmark’s fifth largest city in its own right. The neighbourhood, located west of the city centre, is particularly popular among hip young families. These pram-pushers relocate to Frederiksberg when their family empires start expanding beyond the confines of a small apartment. Big parks, wide avenues and houses with gardens are commonplace, and it is those open spaces that attract so many affluent young families to the area. Seeing strikingly attractive men accompanied by a baby stroller or feeding the ducks at Frederiksberg Gardens is a regular occurrence here. With its history firmly cemented in the upper-class, Frederiksberg was once home to Denmark’s royals. The district dates back to 1651, when King Frederik III allowed 20 Danish–Dutch peasants to settle and farm the land around Allégade that had previously belonged to the royal family. But the farming was unsuccessful and most of the town burned down in 1697, leaving the peasants unable to pay their taxes. In fact, to this very day, lower tax rates remain a legacy in Frederiksberg. And while area is considered upper-class, it is well-balanced by the clusters of students and new families who call the district home.

Hellerup

Nørrebro

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Frederiksberg Christianshavn Vesterbro

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AFTER DARK

In an area bursting with lush green parks, it’s no surprise that Frederiksberg has one of most attractive and expansive gardens in urban Denmark. Frederiksberg Have is a wonderful spot to have a picnic and throw a frisbee on a warm day. If time is on your side, take a boat tour through the gardens or meander through the labyrinth facing Pile Allé. Adjacent to the park, with its main entrance on Roskildevej, is Copenhagen Zoo. In addition to featuring a savannah where various animals can roam and interact, this is the only zoo outside of Australia that has Tasmanian devils on display. The nearby Frederiksberg Palace offers monthly tours, and City Hall on Smallegade is another impressive structure – it may have been built so large due to its rivalry with the City of Copenhagen. For another taste of Danish culture, Storm P Museum, at Frederiksberg Runddel, celebrates the drawings of Robert Storm Petersen, a famous Danish artist and author. OUR PICK!

Copenhagen Zoo. You can sneak a peek at just the elephants from Frederiksberg Have if you don’t fancy monkeying around inside. (Roskildevej 32)

EAT Going out for brunch is one of life’s simple pleasures. And in Frederiksberg, there are plenty of mid-morning meal options available. Café Granola on Værnedamsvej has a vintage, 1930s atmosphere with nostalgic décor and dishes to match; the freshly squeezed juice will give you the get-upand-go you need to start your day. Laundromat Café is another fantastic brunch spot. The newest in the Laundromat series, this charming venue on Gammel Kongevej makes doing laundry much easier to stomach. For another novel experience, try a regular-sized coffee at the World’s Smallest Coffee Shop on Tullinsgade. What this tiny café lacks in size (it has only five seats), it more than makes up for it with its larger-thanlife atmosphere – and the world’s smallest hotel is located just upstairs. Bjørnekælderen on Frederiksberg Allé has yummy smørrebrød, and at the upper end of the price scale, Formel B on Vesterbrogade pairs quality Danish ingredients with French cooking techniques.

OUR PICK!

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Granola Café. The set brunch menu at this bustling little café will leave you feeling content and satisfied. (Værnedamsvej 5)

SHOP Food is the overriding theme on Værnedamsvej – one of Frederiksberg’s cutest shopping areas. This street of mouth-watering treats is located between Vesterbrogade and Gammel Kongevej. If you’re hosting a dinner party, Le Gourmand sells French foodstuffs, and Helges Ost has delectable cheeses and Italian specialties like olives and sausages. To wash it all down, Juuls has a great selection of European wine and whisky, and the classy chocolate store Summerbird will melt any chocoholic’s resolve. To dish up these treats on some equally exquisite dinnerware, the place to visit is the Royal Copenhagen Factory Outlet on Søndre Fasanvej. For something to wear, Samsøe & Samsøe is good for young ladies and gents who like to stay on trend, or visit the shopping mall Frederiksberg Centeret on Falkoner Allé for designer brands. And if all else fails, the Frederiksberg flea market, located behind City Hall, runs most Saturdays during the summer. OUR PICK!

When it comes to nightlife, Frederiksberg is a quieter part of the city, but the district does offer a few good nightspots. On Julius Thomsen Plads, Forum is an excellent live-music venue that attracts some of the world’s biggest bands and hosts various cultural festivals. For another generous dose of culture, some wonderful local productions take the stage at Betty Nansen Theatre on Frederiksberg Allé – though many of the performances are in Danish. If salsa is more your style, Café Kellerdirk, also on Frederiksberg Allé, comes to life at nightfall; for beginners to the sassy salsa, an instructor leads the way on Mondays. Or there’s the much smaller and cosier Café Intime – decorated with flickering candles, coloured lamps and a cluttered interior. This quaint Allégade bar somehow squeezes in a piano when live jazz and classical-music acts play there. And if you have a hankering for Eastern European beer, Café Svejk on Smallegade will satisfy.

OUR PICK!

Forum. There’s always something going on at this venue, like the Japanese Festival Aug 18-19. (Julius Thomsen Plads 1)

Samsøe & Samsøe. For modern, easy-to-wear clothing in that minimalistic Scandinavian style. (Værnedamsvej 12)

NEXT WEEK: CHRISTIANSHAVN

Summer in Denmark: 27 July - 2 August 2012

Kulturklik.dk – Your click to museums & experiences. Enjoy summer at Copenhagen area museums. Spec

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foto: Jens Frederiksen · layout: annafalcono · 2012

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Sunday to Friday from 12 to 16 (unless there are religious ceremonies) Domkirkens Museum · Københavns Domkirke · Vor Frue Kirke Nørregade 8 · 1165 København K www.domkirken.dk

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Summer in Denmark: 27 July - 2 August 2012

Your click to Copenhagen area museums & experiences

where I experience art

Photo: Isak Hoffmeyer

Europe in Copenhagen ...

My museum

Nicholas Bro, 40, actor

“ Feeling cooped up in Copenhagen? If you’ve got a touch of wanderlust but can’t get out of the city, why not make a grand tour of Europe in your hometown? There are plenty of places where you can experience the best of some of Europe’s great metropolises. This summer, we’ll take you to Berlin, Amsterdam, Rome and Paris – without ever leaving the Copenhagen area. Next destination: Paris. By Julie W. Tovgaard

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HETHER IT’S FOOD, fashion or fine art, there’s no escaping the influence of Paris. Copenhagen, too, has taken some of its inspiration from the City of Cities. Start by visiting the National Gallery’s French collection, which houses paintings, sculptures, drawings and ceramics from one of history’s most creative periods. All of the artists featured in the collection have ties to Paris. While they contributed in some way to the city’s thriving art scene between 1900 and 1930, they also shocked the middle-class with their

abstract and expressive works. The National Gallery houses works by Picasso, Derain, Braque and Matisse, who receives special attention with his own special permanent exhibit. After the museum, head over to Den Franske Bogcafé, a French bookstore and café on Fiolstæde, to discuss expressionism over a cup of café au lait and a petite madeleine or while you browse the headlines in Le Monde. Next, head north out of the city to Hillerød to explore Denmark’s answer to Versailles. Frederiksborg Castle is Scandinavia’s largest Renaissance building, and no expense was spared during its construction. Frederiksborg was intended to be a symbol of King Christian IV’s power and to impress other European rulers of the day. The Versailles-inspired castle gardens are worth a visit in and of themselves: here, you can both enjoy the symmetry of a baroque garden and the more relaxed atmosphere of a wild garden. On your way home, visit the Ordurpgaard Museum in Charlottenlund. Founded by merchant Wilhelm Hansen, the museum is stocked with the multitude of French pieces he was able to purchase through his business connections. His home became a gallery, and he opened it to the public in order to introduce Denmark to French art. The museum’s collection has works by Monet, Morisot and Pissaro, and their motifs include everything from idyllic agrarian scenes to grim depictions of the rise of industrialism. Looking for the flavour of a Parisian market? Head down to the new Torvehallerne marketplace on Israels Plads in central Copenhagen. There, you’ll find fish, cheese, herbs and plenty of other delicacies for the perfect French-inspired meal. Hungry for something now? Queue up at Ma Poule and order one of its famous sandwiches with confit de canard. Still have room for more French flavour? End your Parisian visit at L’éducation Nationale on Larsbjørnsstræde. There, you can order authentic French cuisine served on red-checked tablecloths to complete the bistro atmosphere. Bon appétit!

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I’ve been living in the same flat near the National Museum since I was 12, so I’ve been there more times than I can count. Sundays were always free, and that was my chance to get away for a little while. The permanent collection at the National Gallery is also special to me. I was there a lot during my teenage years. I wanted to be an artist, so I took lessons with an artist who showed me how to look at the paintings in a different way. He told me to walk through quickly and try to capture everything I saw. Then I had to do it again. Eventually, I became pretty familiar with the collection. The Glyptotek was another museum I visited a lot. I always had the place to myself, which is great when you’re a teenager and just want to be alone. When I turned 18, I decided I wanted to be a rock star and stopped going to museums entirely. “The visual arts are easily approachable, but few really show much interest in it. That’s kind of a shame, but it’s probably because people want something more social. The performing arts, on the other hand, are a more social art form, and probably one of the most advanced forms of art we have. I consider film to be far behind theatre as an art form. Film can only express itself in realist terms, but theatre has so many other forms of expression to turn to. But, like visual arts, performing arts appear to only be the select few. The visual arts will never go out of style – we’ll always perform for others – and that means that people will never question their validity as an art form. The narrow appeal probably has a lot to do with the way we’re brought up to see it. It’s kind of like when people say that literature doesn’t appeal to them, even though they may not have read more than 12 books in their lives. It’s just a matter of trying until you find something you do like. “We need to keep hold of our historic places, if only because losing them would be unthinkable. You can’t turn away from your past without creating a society right out of ‘1984’ – a society without common identity or any sort of relationship to the past. I find that to be just too dark a thought. It’s like blowing up 2,000-year-old Buddha statues because you aren’t a Buddhist.” By Marie Louise Tüxen

Summer in Denmark: 27 July - 2 August 2012

Your click to Copenhagen area museums & experiences

For Families

Events

THE FARMER’S ANIMALS Get up close and personal with the animals at the Open Air Museum. Feel rough chicken feet, soft lamb’s wool or hard goat horns. Tours start at the Rømø farm building. Meet the farm animals Tues Jul 31-Thurs Aug 2. Tours begin at 10:30.

• WHO ARE THE DANES? FROM ABSOLUTE MONARCHS TO THE MODERN WELFARE STATE What is a Dane, and which historical events have influenced Danish culture over the past 350 years? Find out during a guided tour of the permanent exhibition ‘Stories of Denmark: 1660-2000’. Please sign up at the Information Desk to attend. The guided tour takes place Tues Jul 31 at 11:00. The National Museum

Open Air Museum Kongevejen 100 Kgs Lyngby natmus.dk FIRST CLASS!

Ny Vestergade 10

A HUMOURIST REINTERPRETED BY EIGHT FANS In this exhibition, eight of cartoonist and humourist Storm P’s biggest fans were chosen to create their own personal exhibition of his drawings. Their impressions of his work help to draw a picture of Storm P as an artist, illustrator, philosopher, humourist and satirist. Their vastly different selections underscore the diversity of Storm P’s work and his ability to continue to communicate with us today.

Copenhagen K natmus.dk

Storm P Museum

CIRCUS WORKSHOP FOR THE FAMILY Try your hand at juggling or hang from a trapeze under the watchful eye of a professional circus performer. There will be plenty of activities and lots of laughs at the Circus Museum’s family workshop on Sun Jul 29, 11:00-12:30. Circus Museum Hovedporten 6 Hvidovre cirkusmuseum.dk

Frederiksberg Runddel Frederiksberg stormp-museet.dk

Exhibitions Lee Friederlander:

• GUIDED TOURS OF THE DANISH JEWISH MUSEUM Get the inside story behind Daniel Libeskind’s design for the museum housing 400 years of Jewish history in Denmark. The tour offers highlights from the museum’s permanent collection, ‘Space and Spaciousness’. Tours available Fri Jul 27, Sun Jul 29 and Wed Aug 1 at 14:00.

America by car In this exhibition, legendary master photographer Lee Friedlander compiles 192 black-and-white photographs – all taken from the interiors of rental cars – to draw a remarkable portrait of modern America. Friedlander creates visual encounters, where steering wheel and dashboard meet classic American landscapes, motels, monuments, trucks and road signs. We also sometimes get a glimpse of Friedlander himself in the side mirrors. The Royal Library, Black Diamond

Danish Jewish Museum

Søren Kierkegaards Plads 1

Proviantspassagen 6

Copenhagen K

Copenhagen K

kb.dk

jewmus.dk

Frida Zachariassen Frida Zachariassen was born in the Faroese town of Klaksvík, and she has become a maverick in the world of Faroese art. Over the years – and in her characteristic form of expression – Zachariassen painted a modern chronicle of contemporary life in and around Klaksvík, with many of her works depicting named people and places. And it is precisely this portrayal of mankind’s affinity with nature that makes Zachariassen stand out in the field of Faroese landscape art. Nordatlantens Brygge Strandgade 91 Copenhagen K bryggen.dk Europe meets the world Europe is constantly changing and in constant dialogue

with the world around it. Focusing on nine themes in European history, this exhibition tells the story of how Europe has interacted with other cultures over the past 2,500 years – from ancient Greece to the modern-day challenges of globalisation. The National Museum Ny Vestergade 7 Copenhagen K natmus.dk

A far-off war Daily life in a Danish army camp is presented in this hands-on exhibition, which recreates the sights and sounds experienced by combat soldiers in Afghanistan. Most of the items on

display were used as actual field equipment there, and they show signs of wear and tear from the deployment. The Royal Arsenal Museum Tøjhusgade 3 Copenhagen V thm.dk Afgang 2012 Meet the next generation of contemporary artists when art gallery Nikolaj Kuntshal holds its second annual ‘Afgang’ exhibit. Find out where up-and-coming artists are turning their attention. Art forms include installations, videos, paintings, sculptures, sketches, audio, performances and textiles. Nikolaj Kunsthal Nikolaj Plads 10 Copenhagen K nikolajkunsthal.dk

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Circus Museum p ly ho Ju ks n or y i W d a 30 us n 2. rc Su -1 Ci ery 11 Ev

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www cirkusmuseum.dk .

Hovedporten 6 ● Hvidovre ● Sun-Thursday 11-15

Masterpieces from Skagens Museum

4 May - 3 September 2012 SCULPTURE • ARCHITECTUR • PAINTINGS BERTEL THORVALDSENS PLADS 2, COPENHAGEN K OPEN TUESDAY-SUNDAY 10-17 WWW.THORVALDSENSMUSEUM.DK

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Open daily 11 AM - 5 PM Closed Mondays

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Island Hopping | Ærø

Summer in Denmark: 27 July - 2 August 2012

It doesn’t get any more Ærø oozes with idyllic charm, but what visitors might not notice is that this island is every bit as modern as it is historic By Jennifer Weitz-Clancy Poulsen

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UTHENTIC ÆRØ is a small, fully functional island where the best of the old meets the best of the new. Protected from the harsh winds along the west coast of Denmark and the heavily salted waters of the Atlantic Ocean, archaeological evidence reveals that Ærø was settled as far back as 11,000 years ago. It is an island brimming with history, historic places and historians … while also being highly sophisticated in terms of green energy, heat production and a balanced lifestyle. Not accessible by bridge, Ærø’s relatively remote location has led to a natural preservation of its old ways and unspoiled nature that attracts both new residents and tourists from around the world. Curious couples, artists and antiquers, families, fishermen and those wanting to indulge in outdoor activities in a safe and social atmosphere are all drawn to this location – which is definitely far from the madding crowd. The island once consisted of two distinct land masses connected by a small isthmus on the south-eastern side of the island, but land-building activities took place in the 18th and 19th centuries, and Ærø now measures 88 sq km – about 4 kilometres between the two farthest points. Nevertheless, it offers an impressive 167 kilometres of coastline. And the unique shape of the island, with its many peninsula-like extensions and smaller islands off in the distance, lends itself to wonderful views at every turn. ‘Charm’ is the key word on Ærø: charming villages, charming houses and charming people abound. Modern structures are generally the exception, while quaint historic farmhouses and farmhouses from the early 20th century are the rule. In Ærøskøbing, once the island’s central town, as many as 29 buildings are registered; the oldest dates back to the 17th century. And this is how the islanders like it. Local preservation initiatives resulted in Ærøskøbing receiving the Europa Nostra Cultural Heritage award in 2002, and similar joint efforts have allowed museums to restore commercial and

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charming than this

residential buildings that otherwise would have fallen into disrepair.

Ærø Geographically positioned just north of Germany, Ærø is

In addition to buildings, these initiatives also extend to the restoration of the tall ships and shipyard buildings that are found throughout the island. Several buildings are worth a closer look: notably, Hammerichs Hus, a true classic in the centre of Ærøskøbing; the manor house at Søbygaard; and the lighthouse and golf course in Skjoldnæs at the westernmost tip of the island. It is also well worth the effort to include island churches and churchyards on your itinerary – these historic buildings have stories to tell, and provide a real taste of how Danish austerity combined with maritime and agrarian cultures to guide post-pagan spirituality. Visitors will appreciate the many diverse and delightful nature parks residents have preserved to protect wildlife habitats in recent decades. Among these are ‘Gråsten Nor’, a 3 sq km lowland constructed from shallow waters by a purposebuilt dam in 1856; it is home to deer, fox, hare, pheasants, migratory birds and unique plant species. Other favourites include the picturesque salt-marshes of Vitsø Nor to the south and west; Ærø Nature Park, a hilly, wooded area in the north-western part of the island, adjacent to the water where landowners co-operated to suspend land-use and encourage the land’s natural development; and the steep coastal hills of Voderup Klint on the southern shore facing Germany – here, clay deposits and heavy rains caused the steep coastland to collapse, creating kelly-green terraced hills and striking waterside vistas. Guided tours are offered year round by local conservation groups, and tourists are always welcome to gently enjoy these areas on their own. But don’t let Ærø’s natural beauty and charming old buildings fool you: the island is also a well-established leader when it comes to high-tech communications and sustainable living. High-capacity telecommunications cables make it possible for residents to telecommute to work. Quaint 

one of Denmark’s sunniest communities. On a clear day, Germany is visible – but several delightfully situated Danish islands are within view almost every day. An integral part of the Ærø island experience is the trip itself. Ferries depart from four locations: Fynshav, which connects Ærø with southern Jutland and Germany; Faaborg, connecting to southern Funen; Svendborg, connecting Ærø to that city’s lovely tall-ship harbour, restaurants and professional services; and Rudkøbing on Langeland, providing access to south-eastern Zealand via Lolland and ferries travelling to Germany.

Ærø

NEXT WEEK: MØN

Island Hopping | Ærø

Summer in Denmark: 27 July - 2 August 2012

Stay  windmills from days gone by grace Ærø’s landscapes, but numerous public and private initiatives have resulted in the placement of high-efficiency windmills that surpass the island’s own energy demands. Beneath many villages’ idyllic cobblestone streets lay pipes that deliver water heated at large solar-panel farms nearby; Ærø was among the first to distribute heat and hot water by means of these farms. And having developed the world’s largest such facility, the island’s administrators are now topping that accomplishment with a major expansion, which is meant to serve as a model for similar development throughout the European Union. The best way to experience this mix of rustic charm and modern development – according to American travel guru Rick Steves (as well as this author) – is by bicycle. Families can take advantage of local paths near colourful cabanas and sandy beaches near the towns of Ærøskøbing and Marstal, while those wishing to cover greater distances can easily make use of managed routes throughout the island. Ærø’s most recent addition, called Nevresti, should appeal to cyclists at every level. Starting in Ærøskøbing and extending for 3.5 coastal kilometres, this pleasant path awakens all the senses. It goes along the bay, bordered by wild roses and wheat fields, passing grazing sheep, boats, birds and fishermen’s’ huts, before joining with other paths that enable cyclists to wade in the water or enjoy a picnic lunch. Alternately, you can continue on to the Stone Age burial grounds (jættestue) in Krægnæs; the local airport, where island-sightseeing tours are highly recommended on sunny days; or further to Marstal for shopping and a bite to eat (approximate distance: a flat 10 kilometres). Planning ahead is easy by means of local historian and bicycle enthusiast Allan Harsbo’s English-language website (www.bike-erria.dk/eng). Here, visitors can find guidebooks in English with cycle routes developed by the author, as well as options for booking bicycles in advance. It’s the perfect way to balance fitness and fun with relaxation – as Ærø’s locals have been doing for centuries.

Ærø offers accommodations for every kind of traveller. Campers can take advantage of ‘primitive’ campsites throughout the island, including covered shelters along the Nevresti bicycle path. Those visiting for a weekend will enjoy accommodations at island B&Bs, pensions and hotels. Many prefer to stay for three days to one week or longer, while some visitors want to work remotely and rent for longer periods; in this case, fully furnished vacation homes and apartments are most convenient. Networks of summer holiday-rental agencies can be found online.

OUR PICK!

Weekend warriors. Pension Vestergade with host Susanne is easily accessible, and offers unmatched service and charm year round. For those with more time, try a week-long stay at a guest house. Search for accommodations at feriepartner.com.

Getting there Although it is possible to reach Ærø by private boat, plane or helicopter, most visitors arrive by ferry. Reservations are recommended for travel with a car (aeroe-ferry.com).

Do

OUR PICK!

Eat

Hammerichs Hus. Located at Ærøskøbing Museum, this is a must-do year round, while summer guests should make a point of visiting Café Dræsinen or attending the Ærø Jazz Festival.

Ærø’s restaurants tend to be seasonal with some open only in summer, after which their owners return to other jobs. Contact the tourist bureau for opening hours. Frequently open in Ærøskøbing are Røgeriet – a smoked-fish café at the harbour and worth a visit for the smell alone – and Det Lille Hotel, situated across from the town’s quaint duck pond and offering finer meals. Equally comfortable but with shorter seasons, Café Aroma offers healthy meals and homemade ice cream, and Restaurant Mumm serves delicious food in a charming atmosphere. Marstal has several pizzerias: a summer favourite (and serving the island’s best) is Pronto Pizza at the yacht harbour. Also in Marstal are the restaurants Kongensgade 34 and Den Gamle Vingaard – both serve varied menus at reasonable prices and offer good service. For the best ribs in town, head to the harbour kiosk in Søby. To hear different island dialects – visit an island inn (kro). OUR PICK!

Den Gamle Vingaard. For variety, service, outdoor dining, healthy options and quality, go to this favourite in Marstal (check opening hours at den-gamle-vingaard.com).

Get local on Ærø, and let the family fun begin in one of its three main towns, which offer unique children’s playgrounds with barbecues by the sea. Enjoy archipelago waters by way of classic ships sailing out of Marstal and Ærøskøbing mid-week, or island hop with the island’s newest skipper, Peter Kjær. Bicycle enthusiasts will enjoy routes that run easterly via Nevresti or, more challenging, westerly towards Borgnæs and beyond. Those who appreciate antiques should check out the flea markets (loppemarked), including ‘Flintholmgård’ in Leby or Ærøskøbing’s quaint antique shop. Art is on display at shops and galleries across the island, and lively folk music at Café Dræsinen is recommended. Classical music can also be heard here and, as with music festivals and other special events, it’s best planned through the island’s tourist bureau. Lovers should also beware – getting married here is very popular! Contact wedding arranger Louise Moloney with Danish Island Weddings.

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Regional | Southern Jutland

Summer in Denmark: 27 July - 2 August 2012

Denmark’s green heartland Nestled between hectic Zealand and broad-shouldered Jutland, Funen is brimming with charm and hospitality By Jennifer Weitz-Clancy Poulsen

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ying in the centre of Denmark, Funen and the 90 islands of the Southern Danish Archipelago are linked by both cultural and commercial bonds. The region’s larger and well-populated islands Taasinge, Thurø and Langeland are connected to Funen by bridge. More distant, the island of Ærø is accessible by ferry from several ports (see page 7); the largest and most picturesque of these is the tall-ship harbour in Svendborg, Funen’s second-largest city. Three smaller inhabited islands, Drejø, Skarø and Hjortø, can also be reached by ferry from Svendborg. The island of Funen is between Denmark’s two largest land masses – Jutland to the east and Zealand to the west. Zealand, home to Copenhagen and a stone’s throw from Sweden, is accessed by the Great Belt Bridge, which totals about 6.8 kilometres in length and has two major components, each meeting on the island of Sprogø. Formerly an isolated island in the strait separating Funen and Zealand, Sprogø was dramatically enlarged during bridge construction, which was completed in 1998. Passing motorists will undoubtedly notice the vast number of birds and other animals that make their

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homes on Sprogø – and the island once also housed unwed mothers and other outcast women. The state-owned company operating the Great Belt Bridge established seven windmills in waters nearby in 2009; today, they generate enough energy to meet the bridge operations’ power demands. On its western side, Funen connects to the Jutland peninsula by way of two bridges: the Old Little Belt Bridge, completed in 1935 and allowing limited car and train traffic today; and the New Little Belt Bridge, completed in 1970 and bearing most of the traffic between the two regions. Funen and its surrounding islands were first inhabited by hunter-gatherers after Denmark’s last Ice Age, around 11,000 BC. Artefacts that reveal structures, bodies and implements used for survival have been found and excavated under the archipelago seas, with additional evidence showing up during road and farming operations. Consistently occupied and largely agricultural, Funen is known for its rich soil and good growing conditions; Danes affectionately refer to it as ‘the green island’. Roadside stands with potatoes and vegetables are common, and fishing villages offer delicious, fresh options for healthy, flavourful eating. Also due to its agricultural success, the area has many well-heeled manor houses, some of which have been turned into museums, conference centres, parks and hotels that welcome visitors. The region’s centre has long been the city of Odense, which is centrally located on the island and home to a major port, initially developed in the 19th century. Also home to the island’s largest hospital and university, it is the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Carl Nielsen, the country’s best-known classical composer, was born and raised in southern Funen near the town of Faaborg.

Funen Visit Funen, the third largest of Denmark’s many islands, to see south-central Denmark. Experience something different as you travel through rolling green hills, stop at roadside fruit, potato and freshflower stands, and enjoy the warm and welcoming Southern Danish Archipelago. With the major city of Odense easily accessible by train, you can head from the train station right to the city centre to visit Hans Christian Andersen’s birthplace. For shopping or theatre, head out to the nearby Funen Village, where historic buildings have been re-established in a setting truly reminiscent of days gone by. Bring your family or meet up with friends for a day at Egeskov Castle, situated inland near Svendborg; many other manor houses also grace this most fertile of Danish landscapes. Travel through villages and along coastland by bicycle. And whatever you do, head south and set sail among the 90-plus islands sprinkled throughout the region’s calm and lovely Baltic waters – here, you’re sure to build memories to last a lifetime!

Funen

NEXT WEEK: ZEALAND

Regional | Southern Jutland

Summer in Denmark: 27 July - 2 August 2012

Do Outdoor enthusiasts should set their sights on the well-networked Archipelago Trail, which crosses the sea and islands; it allows for healthy outdoor experiences that traverse farms, fishing villages, coastal vistas and historic sites (detsydfynskeoehav.dk). When the weather is good, seeing the islands by sea is a must. Organised or self-planned bicycle tours with ferry travel are a great way to accomplish this. Licensed sailors can rent boats online, and those who want to sit back while others take the helm can charter the schooner Fylla or take sail with captain and crew with the Maritime Center in Svendborg; fishing can also be included in these sailing trips. Be sure to visit local museums and experience Funen Village in Odense. If time permits, the Odense Zoo is recommended. OUR PICK!

If you have the time, plan outdoor adventures that take advantage of the many opportunities found in the area. Otherwise, be sure to visit Egeskov Castle, which has something for everyone: well-maintained gardens, a car and plane museum, a labyrinth, tree-top walking, a farming museum, a café and – for an extra fee – access to the castle itself.

Stay

Eat

Opportunities abound. Kayakers, bicyclists and hikers can find free or inexpensive camping areas – called ‘primitive’ tenting – by calling local tourist bureaus or using an interactive map (udinaturen.naturstyrelsen.dk). The map is only in Danish, but click on the box that says ‘overnatning’ to the left, and select the desired area. The region’s hostels (vandrerhjem) are usually well-suited for budget-minded travellers, including families. Many hotels are available with lodging by the sea, and castles offer a different kind of overnight experience. To get closer to local culture, vacation-home rentals, B&Bs and lodging in inns (kroer) can offer more intimate and down-to-earth experiences. Those who want to stay someplace off the beaten path can get a rental on a working farm (bondegård); families are also welcome to participate. And Danish campgrounds offer micro-cabins in pleasant park-like settings.

Food in the Funen region generally reflects the typical Danish menu of meat and potatoes, plus wine and dessert. But fresh seafood and healthy meals can be found with a little planning. Odense and Svendborg offer the greatest selection, but seaside villages and fresh-food stands should not be overlooked for excellent produce. For fine dining in charming surroundings, Michelinrated Falsledkro near Faaborg is recommended. For a few less kroner, visit Den Gamle Kro in Odense. Both offer accommodations as well as fine dining. Enjoy high-class meals at Hotel Ærø at the harbour in Svendborg. And if you want a healthy, generous meal among the locals in Svendborg, head over to nearby Jettes Diner. Also worth visiting in Svendborg – especially if you are heading to the ferry – is Bendixens Fiskehandel, which offers great take-away. You can enjoy restaurants throughout the island region – just check ahead to make sure they’re open.

OUR PICK!

To fully experience Funen’s charm, combine a visit to one of the region’s quaint villages or towns with a stay at a pension or B&B. Be sure to check online sources for customer ratings beforehand.

OUR PICK!

Falsled Kro. For those who won’t wince at the prices, this place hard to beat. For reliable, enjoyable healthy meals with outdoor dining, Jettes Diner is the hands-down pick.

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