Country Roads Magazine "The Road Trip Issue" April 2025

Daryl Marx, MD Robotic Surgery

Driving Miss Dorcas by James Fox-Smith

NOTEWORTHIES

Far-flung festivals, a new nature station & Extracted

Festivals celebrating Louisiana’s Italian, Scottish, Lao, and other cultural influences

“C’EST LEVEE”

TAKE ME TO THE OLDEST TOWN IN TEXAS

Strolling past the many histories of Nacogdoches by Kristy Christiansen

Diving the Florida Panhandle Shipwreck Trail by Colleen Rush

“I’LL STAY IN MEMPHIS”

The birthplace of Rock ‘n’ Roll is just a train ride away by Kristy Christiansen

Photo and words by Charlotte Jones

In most places you’re not supposed to ride the levee. But sometimes you must get from Point A to B, whether Point B is an oxbow lake, a hunting camp, or a state of mind. Even if Point B is anywhere but Point A. The levee is certainly an anomaly, but also a dichotomy. The impressive feat of human engineering divides us from, while simultaneously bridging us to, the Mississippi wild. To the east, houses, gins, tornado sirens, and soybean fields dot the horizon. Westward, gnarled vines and cypress knees reclaim the edges of waterways. From atop the levee, the intermingle becomes more clear—Angus cattle loiter at the swamp’s edge while whitetail deer graze in the open. Anytime I am in the Mississippi Delta, I always return to the levee. Most recently, five of us piled into an old Honda to meet with a local known as “Whistle” or “Mr. E.” Despite his old age, Whistle hustled to the top of the levee from a far-off cowshed in a mere thirty seconds, with no qualms about voicing his excitement. This feral donkey has one job; protecting the livestock. But Mr. E is a celebrity now, often blocking the road, demanding treats. After we paid our toll, we headed north on the levee road to chase the sunset, hoping to catch a glimpse of the comet ATLAS. We met another donkey who was certainly less feral, but more cautious, than the previous levee guardian. His herd followed, then lingered, and stared at us with a certain je ne sais quoi. As the cows blocked the open road, we were the ones left to ruminate on topics such as getting from Point A to B, dichotomies, and Chuck Berry. The metaphor leaned somewhere towards c’est levee.

A food tour of the bustling North Louisiana hub by Liz Williams

For twenty years, the Peggy Martin has remained a gorgeous symbol of resilience by Mimi Greenwood Knight

South Padre, a curious island with an intrepid spirit by Sophie Nau

Sailing with the Lake

Publisher

James Fox-Smith

Associate

Publisher

Ashley Fox-Smith

Managing Editor

Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Arts & Entertainment

Editor

Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun

Creative Director Kourtney Zimmerman

Contributors:

Marshall Blevins, Kristy Christiansen, Paul Christiansen, Jess Cole, Mimi Greenwood Knight, Dan Plummer, Sophie Nau, Colleen Rush, Liz Williams

Cover Artist

Charlotte Jones

Advertising

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Sales Team

Heather Gammill & Heather Gibbons

Operations Coordinator Molly McNeal

President Dorcas Woods Brown

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Reflections

FROM THE PUBLISHER

When our children were small, the third leg of our parenting stool was provided by my mother-in-law, Dorcas. Forty-two years ago, armed with a paste-up lightboard and a can-do attitude, Dorcas founded this magazine from the dining room table of her farmhouse in rural West Feliciana, and, for the twelve years that followed, published it more or less single-handedly until her English major daughter came home from a year abroad with a scruffy Australian expat in tow. Since the couple showed no signs of moving on and the Australian could spell, Dorcas added them to the masthead, and during some rather lean years that followed, did what she could to teach them about the magazine business. Eight years later, just as my wife and I imagined we were getting the hang of this publishing thing, our daughter was born, then her brother two years later. Without much money, we did what I suppose parents with small family businesses have always done, which is to take the kids to work with them. Productivity suffered, of course, and it wasn’t long before Dorcas began trading some of her publisher’s duties

for those of a grandmother, sharing the caregiver role with my wife and me as our children’s lives grew busier, and enabling Country Roads to keep soldiering along in the process. Since we all lived on the same property and the magazine was, by that time, run out of Baton Rouge, the kids grew up shuttling between their working parents and grandmother, who for some reason they dubbed “Babu,” toddling over to her house for morning pancakes as soon as they could walk, and later, getting off the school bus in front of her little office in St. Francisville. She would feed them and ferry them about to sports practice or friends’ houses or to the zoo, thereby ensuring them a more complete childhood while their parents focused on the next deadline. By the time the kids were middle schoolers, with music lessons and basketball practice and summer camps and all the rest to accommodate, Dorcas was serving such a vital role in the complicated transportation arrangements that we got her a vanity license plate that said BABUBUS. She was pleased, and long after both children had gotten driver’s licenses and moved away to college, the BABUBUS plate remained—a badge of honor earned for the thousands of miles she logged on their behalf.

Dorcas has always liked to drive—a good thing when you live ten miles from the nearest place to buy milk.

And despite encounters with roadside debris and the occasional deer or slow-moving possum that added to the BABUBUS’s unique patina, Dorcas was on the road most days, and long after she retired, the children moved away, and her time was entirely her own, she could be spotted beetling around St. Francisville from one social engagement to another. So last month, it felt sudden when, during an outing to The Birdman, she took the phrase “running into the pharmacy” rather too literally. While swinging into a parking space, she apparently mixed up the accelerator and brake pedals, sending the BABUBUS roaring over the curb and adding new meaning to the phrase “drive-thru pharmacy.”

Fortunately, besides the front of the BABUBUS, nothing was much injured. But all agreed that it was time for Dorcas to put her driving days in the rearview mirror.

So now, we’re driving Miss Dorcas. Or at least, we would be if there weren’t so many of her friends and acquaintances lining up to do so. Most days, Judy or Kathryn or Susan or some other friend for whom Dorcas has always been there will show up for lunch or coffee or to bring her into town. On other days, Miss Drema, a longtime neighbor from nearby Wakefield, is always available with car keys and cheerful conversation at hand. Why am I surprised? Like most things that life throws at her, the world’s most sociable octogenarian seems to be taking it all in stride.

In a couple of weeks Dorcas will turn eighty. There’ll be a party, of course. “Nothing big; I just want something simple,” she said, handing over a guest list the length of a biblical scroll. Dorcas’s birthday party grows bigger by the day, with family and friends flying in from both coasts. This is good, because throwing Babupalooza seems like the least we can do given all the years she spent ferrying our kids around. In twenty-five years or so it’ll be our turn, which doesn’t sound like long at all. When that time comes, we can only hope there’ll be half as many friends who care enough to come drive us around, celebrate our milestones, and to pick us up when we fall.

—James Fox-Smith, publisher james@countryroadsmag.com

The Art of the Snackle Box

Making memories (and healthy choices) on the road

Let’s be honest—nothing brightens up a long drive quite like the promise of a tasty treat: a delicious, indulgent spark of excitement to break up the monotony of long hours spent on the road.

But in the chaos of pre-departure vacation planning, snack-packing often gets left off the to-do list, only to be replaced by a gas station stop or drive-thru run on the way. Often, this means bags of chips or candy, greasy fast food and sugary drinks—which, while convenient, might make the journey less enjoyable, and healthful, in the long run.

“On vacation, you want to stay energized and focused, especially if you are the driver,” says Allison Attuso, a clinical dietitian at Pennington Biomedical Research Center.

The big influx of saturated fats, salt, and sugars loaded into that bag of potato chips or movie theater-sized box of gummy worms might go down easy, but it can leave your body feeling sluggish, or even cause G.I. upset, without offering much nutritional benefit.

When it comes to keeping road trip snacking balanced and nutritious, a little bit of planning goes a long way for Attuso and her family. “Let me introduce you to, ‘the snackle box’!”

Similar in shape and concept to a tackle box, these pre-portioned snacking containers (available at most major grocery stores) allow road-trippers to create personalized “picnic-boxes-for-the-road.” Before any long drive, Attuso likes to create specially curated boxes for each person on the trip—preparing selections of fruits, vegetables, whole grain crackers and pretzels, cheeses, nuts, and a few sweet treats as well.

“You get to be as creative as you want, adding novelty to the whole experience,” she said. Sometimes, to add novelty, she’ll include exotic fruits that her kids aren’t familiar with—something altogether new to try.

“You still want the experience to be fun and special,” she said, “while also using the food as a way to fuel our bodies.”

On the other hand, Attuso often lets her kids get involved with selecting the foods to include in their snackle boxes, granting them some control over what they eat and ensuring they’ll look forward to opening their boxes when they get on the road.

It’s been a lifesaver, and a memory maker, for Attuso’s kids, she says—but also for the adults in her family. “I always make my mom a snackle box when we go on trips,” she said. “She gets one just for her, and she loves it.”

Just as important as adding snack-planning to your road trip prep agenda, according to Attuso, is prioritizing hydration. “A lot of people will avoid drinking on a road trip to minimize stops,” she said. “Don’t do that—keep yourselves hydrated. Everyone should have their own water bottle throughout the drive, and you can use those stops as a break for your body, a good stretch and movement break.”

Attuso even keeps a ball in the car to toss around at rest stops with her kids, “to get us all moving and get some wiggles out,” she said.

By putting a little intention behind road trip nutrition, travelers can not only make healthier choices but enhance their adventure experience into the bargain, creating memories that’ll last a lot longer than a stop at the gas station.

Stay tuned for more health tips and advice from the pros at Pennington Biomedical, and get involved at www.pbrc.edu/getinvolved.

5 Festivals Worth the Drive

HWhat? Bluebonnet Festival

When? April 7–9

Where? Burnet, TX

How Far? 472 miles from Baton Rouge

Each year for more than four decades, the town of Burnet has hosted over 35,000 visitors seduced by the show-stopping beauty of Hill Country bluebonnets. Besides the blooms, expect a killer musical lineup headlined by Diamond Days, Departure ATX, and The Steel Belts. There will also be parades, a biergarten, arts and crafts vendors, shootouts, corn hole and dominoes tournaments, and a carnival to boot. Free except for Saturday night’s concert, which is $20, and participation in certain events. bluebonnetfestival.org.

ere in the land of elaborate regional celebrations, we know a thing or two about leveraging hometown idiosyncrasies to justify a party. But the sentiment extends along the highways, to towns large and small hacross the American South. What better way to travel, to really immerse yourself in a place, than to visit when it is celebrating its most prized qualities?

What? Lanterns Festival

When? April 10–13

Where? Little Rock, AR

How Far? 340 miles from Baton Rouge

Each spring, Little Rock’s Wildwood Park for the Arts transforms into an international celebration of the season, centered on the Chinese tradition of lighting lanterns in a celebration of beauty, spirituality, and play. Over the course of four evenings, the event is organized into “vistas” spread over the grounds, each dedicated to a specific culture. There will be treasure hunts, live music, and artist displays throughout the grounds—which will be all aglow with magical paper lanterns. $15. wildwoodlanterns.org.

A New Nature Station

YEARS IN THE MAKING, THE FRENCHTOWN CONSERVATION AREA OPENS ITS VISITOR’S CENTER TO THE PUBLIC

Aproject fifteen years in the making, Central’s Frenchtown Road Conservation h Area Nature Station, nestled between the Comite and Amite Rivers, will officially open to the public in April.

Known as “The Land Between The Rivers,” the site is the largest conservation area operated by the Recreation and Park Commission for the Parish of East Baton Rouge (BREC), with 495 acres of bottomland hardwood forest, diverse flora and fauna, and over three miles of trails. Now with a new state-of-the-art nature station built to withstand flooding and provide informational and educational opportunities, the location will serve as a premiere destination for outdoor adventurers and researchers alike.

“The new center will serve as a hub for environmental education, research, and outdoor experiences,” said Superintendent Corey Wilson. “It aligns with our vision of expanding public access to nature

while also protecting sensitive habitats.”

Although the site has been formally open since 2013, the catastrophic flooding of 2016 prompted officials to abandon the waterlogged facility that had previously served as a small nature station for conservation education and camps in the Frenchtown area. Instead, BREC began efforts to build a new and improved nature center, but progress was stunted due to the challenges of the pandemic years.

Now, the wait is over. The 4,200 square foot facility, built at a cost of approximately $2 million, contains large educational classrooms, two conference rooms, and multiple overlooks to the forested area surrounding the center. A room set aside for an ongoing exhibit displayed snake skins, tortoise shells, an insect table, breakdowns of native fungi and trees, a whiteboard displaying the varieties of wildlife spotted in the area and, at the time of a recent visit, even an employee holding a live (if somewhat tiny) snake greeting guests. Despite the mist on a

What? Juke Joint Festival

When? April 10–13

Where? Clarksdale, MS

How Far? 290 miles from Baton Rouge

For the last twenty years Clarksdale has celebrated its history as home to musical icons including Muddy Waters and Ike Turner, with this annual explosion of blues culture. The many historic venues in town will host an unrelenting slate of over 100 blues performances, enhanced by real Southern cuisine everywhere you look, plus eccentricities like pig racing, and all your small-town fair fodder. The main festival is Saturday, with hundreds of adjacent concerts and celebrations taking place Thursday–Sunday; most of them free. jukejointfestival.com.

What? Galveston Steampunk Festival

When? April 11–13

Where? Galveston, TX

How Far? 290 miles from Baton Rouge

Turns out, this little Texas island was constructed using the same combination of old world aesthetics and innovative industrialism that beats at the heart of the steampunk movement. This annual spring festival brings everyone to the historic Strand District for a celebration of fascinating machines, live music performances, costumery, historic lectures, and more. Immerse yourself via a high tea experience, a pub crawl, a jaunt on a steamboat, or a tour of the city in a Model T. 11 am–9 pm. Day passes are $35; $15 for children. galvestonsteampunk.com.

What? Double Decker Arts Festival

When? April 25–26

Where? Oxford, MS

How Far? 335 miles from Baton Rouge

Twenty-eight years ago, some folks in Oxford, Mississippi gathered around an old pickup truck, and someone stood up on the back end and played a song. Today, that celebration has grown into a 60,000+ people full-town festival of the arts, with more than 100 artists from across the region showcasing their work in the Oxford Courthouse Square and live music on real stages. Free. doubledeckerfestival.com.

recent cold, rainy morning, the station offered far-reaching views of trees and brush just beginning to show signs of early spring.

“It is a remote location, and it’s a wonderful natural landscape,” said Reed Richard, Assistant Superintendent of Planning & Construction, who pointed out that the area has long attracted hikers and birders, even before the facility was completed. “What makes this conservation area so special is it is mostly bottomland hardwood forests that contain habitats and species that are rare, and in some cases imperiled. There’s a diversity of flora and fauna, and countless species.”

Officials emphasized that the site allows locals to connect with nature, attend summer camps, and escape the heat that can make outdoor activities so arduous and even dangerous during the summer and early fall months in Louisiana.

The conservation area mirrors that of BREC’s Bluebonnet Swamp Nature Center, though officials noted that site is

—Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

more “manicured” compared with the “wild” Frenchtown Road location.

“Investing in nature-based facilities like Frenchtown enhances the community’s wellbeing, promotes ecotourism, and strengthens environmental stewardship. This project reflects our dedication to creating innovative spaces that inspire appreciation for Louisiana’s natural beauty,” Wilson said. “You know, our vision is to have a park system that not only provides for today, but also protects and enhances the natural world around us. The new Nature Center is a key step in realizing this vision.”

The Nature Station’s “official” grand opening is April 25–27. The weekend also kicks off the City Nature Challenge, in which 800+ cities across the globe compete to see which municipality can show the most wildlife in the area; BREC leaders encourage locals to use the opening weekend as an opportunity to explore the conservation area’s wildlife.

—Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun

Surviving “Extracted”

A Q&A WITH MEAGAN AND GERRAD DELATTE, LOUISIANA CONTENDERS ON FOX’S NEW REALITY SERIES

Last year, Baton Rouge native Meagan Delatte set out into the Canadian wilderness with nothing but a canteen of water, the clothes on her back, hand a camera. Right now, viewers can watch her quest to win FOX’s hnew survival show, Extracted, each Monday at 7 pm on the network, or streamed on Tuesdays on Hulu.

Delatte, a fitness trainer now living in Mandeville, aimed to be the last of eleven amateur survivalists to endure frigid temperatures, hunger, thirst, and hostile wildlife. Miles away, family and friends—teams of two—supported competitors in a Hunger Games-style headquarters, with 24/7 surveillance. Their task was to negotiate supply drops, take advantage of rare communication opportunities with their survivalists, and ultimately determine if and when they should extract their competitor from the game to save them.

Delatte’s team was made up of her best friend, Abby Hayes, and her father, Gerrad Delatte. As the show nears its finale this month, we sat down with Meagan and Gerrad to discuss the once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Tell me how this came to be. Did you sign up? What motivated you to take on this challenge?

Meagan: Me and dad were alternates on another racing, adventure series, but we didn’t quite get to the start line for that. So, the same casting director reached out to me, during the summer last year, and they’re like, ‘Hey you and your dad would be perfect for this.’

We auditioned, and then we were scrambling to find our third teammate. Abby worked out. It was great, and I’m interested to see more of their dynamic

in HQ for sure. But, you know, why did I want to do this? I mean, why not? I’ve never done anything like this before. I’ve always turned to my dad for the whole survival stuff. He’s the one that should have been out there, looking at it now. But I learned a lot about myself. I hope that we see throughout the show, my grit and my endurance and my athleticism, and why all of that is very important in a survival state.

Gerrad: It is a once in a lifetime opportunity to be in a production like this. Life is short, so why not have these awesome, creative experiences out in the wilderness? Who wouldn’t want to support their daughter out there in the wild? It was a

trying experience for sure. I mean, it took a toll on everyone, just the constant stress. But if they said, ‘Hey, we’re going to do a Part Two of this,’ I’d be like the first one to sign up.

Meagan, how did your experience as a wellness and health professional help you in this experience?

When I was going into this show, I knew my body so well. I knew what it could handle. I had a pretty bad ski accident years ago, had four knee surgeries, all these things. I was probably in the best shape of my life going into it, which definitely helped. I trained for it, on a different level than other people might have, like for a race. Should I have done more

survival stuff? Probably. But my endurance, I think, the level of where I was at with my body, 1000% helped. I mean, I was the first female to make it across for the raft challenge and the navigation challenge. And that speaks a lot to the importance of being fit for this experience.

Did you bring any Louisiana influence/experiences with you out into the wilderness that helped you survive?

Meagan: I’ll say this, Louisiana is family. It’s tradition. I think trusting in our families in HQ, knowing that my dad had my back, Abby had my back, and they were going to do whatever it took to get me through that night, through the next day—I think that did help. Now, it being so hot here did not help me. It was wet and cold. That part was not fun.

Gerrad: I think us living in South Louisiana with all the hurricanes and natural disasters, we have had to adapt. I think that helped us, in certain situations. We’re used to things happening beyond our control. And that is what this show represents—how do you handle those situations?

—Jordan

LaHaye Fontenot

Read the expanded version of this interview at countryroadsmag.com. Watch new episodes of Extracted on FOX on Mondays at 7 pm, or you can stream it on Hulu, or at fox.com/extracted.

HIT THE ROAD THIS APRIL TO CATCH THE BEGINNING OF FESTIVAL SEASON, PLUS CONCERTS, THEATRE, AND PLANT SALES GALORE •

UNTIL

APR 19th

VISUAL ART "SUBDUCTION" AND "LADIES OF LEISURE"

New Orleans, Louisiana

LeMieux Galleries presents Subduction, Kathryn Hunter’s seventh solo exhibition, and Ladies of Leisure, Cassandra Kim’s first solo exhibition. Hunter works in a variety of media, including wool appliqué, embroidery, laser-and hand-cut paper, relief printmaking, and letterpress. Her exhibition explores the current political landscape, meditating on white supremacy, misinformation, and climate change, among other topics. Kim's works feature playful portraits of female animals dressed in mid-nineteenth century clothing. Her work showcases the value of whimsy, encouraging viewers to partake in feminine joy. A reception will be held at “Jammin’ Julia” on April 5 from 5 pm–9 pm. lemieuxgalleries.com. 1

APR 2nd - APR 6th

FILM

2025 PATOIS: NEW ORLEANS INTERNATIONAL HUMAN RIGHTS FILM FESTIVAL

New Orleans, Louisiana

Since 2004, PATOIS: The New Orleans International Human Rights Film

Festival has sought to nurture the city's human rights community. Founded by local activists and artists, the festival provides a forum for artistic expression delving into issues impacting the city, state, and broader international community. $50 for a festival pass. patoisfilmfest.org/patois2025. 1

APR 3rd

DOCUMENTARIES

"RESURGENCE:

FROM IDA TO RECOVERY"

New Iberia, Louisiana

In partnership with the Coastal Center at Nicholls State University, Shadowson-the-Teche presents a screening of the documentary Resurgence: From Ida to Recovery. The film follows the impact of Hurricane Ida on the state, featuring insights from local residents, government officials, community leaders, and coastal experts. Light reception at 5:30 pm; screening at 6 pm. Free, but online registration encouraged. shadowsontheteche.org. 1

APR 3rd - APR 6th

MUSIC

NEW ORLEANS

RAGTIME FESTIVAL

New Orleans, Louisiana

The annual New Orleans Ragtime Festival is returning to America's jazz city

once again. The four-day festival will span multiple venues as it promotes the musical legacy of ragtime through performance and education. Among the performers at this year's festival are The New Leviathan Oriental Foxtrot Orchestra, Steve's Porch Pals, Sara Venet's Storyville String Band, Tuba Skinny, and more. Free. theneworleansragtimefestival.com. 1

APR 4th

FLOAT TRIPS

TOP OF THE TECHE

Leonville, Louisiana

Got a paddle? Tour du Teche, a nonprofit organization focusing on restoring outdoor recreation along the Bayou Teche Corridor through St. Landry, St. Martin, Iberia, and St. Mary parishes, is once again hosting Top of the Teche, a 7.7-mile canoe race from Leonville to Arnaudville. The event, starting at the Leonville Boat Launch, is open to a broad range of paddle-driven watercraft. Boat checks at 7 am; race at 10 am. $30 to register. tourduteche.com. 1

APR 4th

ART OUTINGS

LOUISIANA SCENIC

RIVERS ART FESTIVAL

Folsom, Louisiana

The Folsom Scenic Rivers Art Festival

drinks!

Wednesday April 30, 2025 6pm-9pm at Red Stick Social 1503 Government St Baton Rouge

Tickets UNDER $30. For details go to DenimDayLA.org

Wear denim on Wednesday, 4/30/25 to show support for survivors. Let’s end sexual assault! Visit DenimDayLa.org to find other ways to help.

If

Events

Beginning April 4th - 5th

returns for another year to the Far Horizons Collective at Giddy Up Folsom. Those who attend will enjoy discovering local art from Louisiana craftsmen and women—with everything from paintings, drawings, and photography to ceramics, fine jewelry, and handmade clothing. Live music by the Silver Lining Band, local food, and guest speakers will also guide the evening. Free. 6 pm–9 pm. Find more information at farhorizonsart.com. 1

APR 4th

FUNDRAISERS DINNER UNDER THE LAMPPOSTS

Franklin, Louisiana

Hosted by the Franklin Merchant’s Association, the annual Dinner Under the Lampposts fundraiser offers the opportunity to enjoy fine dining, music by Clay Boudreaux, and community on the city's Main Street under cast-iron Victorian-era lampposts to set the perfect ambiance on a spring evening. Proceeds go to Franklin's Main Street Program. 6 pm–10 pm. cajuncoast.com. 1

APR 4th - APR 5th

BEVVIES WINE DOWN ON FALSE RIVER

New Roads, Louisiana

Immerse yourself in New Roads’ distinctive small-town charm during a weekend of Napa Valley wine tastings, carefully-curated local cuisine, art, and live music—all served lakeside. Friday night opens the doors of local homes and venues for a series of private dinners hosted by renowned local chefs offering menus thoughtfully paired with wines. Stick around on Saturday evening for the Grand Tasting on Main Street, where all the winemakers who have come to town will showcase their selections—expect to sample as many as forty exquisite wines while enjoying small plates and perusing the work of local artists. Get a head start with a ticket to the Sparkling Wine Experience pre-party, featuring a private tasting experience with Napa Valley winemakers. Friday night dinner is $300, includes entrance into all weekend events; Saturday Grand Tasting is $100, $125 day-of; Sparkling Wine Experience is $150. Tickets available at bontempstix.com. Additional details available at winedownfr.com. 1

APR 4th - APR 6th

BOOKWORMS

BOOKS ALONG THE TECHE LITERARY FESTIVAL

New Iberia, Louisiana

The world-famous literary detective Dave Robicheaux, created by author James Lee Burke, comes home to Iberia Parish each year with his very own festival. The official Books Along The Teche Literary Festival returns for another year, offering plenty of opportunities for exploration in the realms of literary history, culture, and cuisine—all in the beautiful historic district of New Iberia. Tickets are available for various events at bontempstix.com. Details at booksalongthetecheliteraryfestival.com 1

APR 4th - APR 6th

MUSIC

BATON ROUGE

BLUES FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Originating in 1981, the Baton Rouge Blues Festival is one of the oldest free blues festivals in America and exists to encourage promotion, preservation, and advancement of Baton Rouge's native Swamp Blues music. This freeto-the public, family-friendly festival will feature an impressive lineup of internationally-recognized performers and local blues legends alike, including: Jonathan "Boogie" Long, Kenny Neal, Hanna PK, Chris Thomas King, Lost Bayou Ramblers, Chris LeBlanc, and more. Held at Repentance Park and Galvez Plaza, downtown Baton Rouge. Free. VIP tickets are $60 on Friday; $150 Saturday and Sunday; $250 for the whole weekend and include exclusive access all weekend, gourmet food and snacks provided, unlimited alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, and private restrooms. batonrougebluesfestival.org. 1

APR 4th - APR 6th

OPERA

DONIZETTI'S

"ELIXIR OF LOVE"

New Orleans, Louisiana

From composer Gaetano Donizetti and librettist Felice Romani comes Elixir of Love, an opera about a hapless farmer pining away for a wealthy woman above his station. Staged by the New Orleans Opera as a story set in the Wild West, the opera includes a magical love potion, comedy, and (last but not least) cowboy boots. The Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra will provide musical accompaniment

for the performance at the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. 7:30 pm Friday; 2:30 pm Sunday. $18–$235. neworleansopera.org. 1

APR 4th - APR 6th

BLOOMS

FLOWER FEST

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Nestled off of the Mississippi River, the tiny community of Pointe-Marie in Baton Rouge will once again spend the first weekend of April decked out in a wildly colorful collaboration between human artistry and nature's impeccable touch. For this year's Flower Fest, groups of floral professionals will compete to showcase their abilities, vision, and execution. All in the name of flora, local chefs, musicians, artisans, and locals will come together to indulge in a lush vision of creative community—all while raising money for St. Jude Children's Research Hospital. Festival tickets are $20 each day. Details at theflowerfest.com. 1

APR 4th - APR 6th

GOOD EATS

SCOTT BOUDIN FESTIVAL

Scott, Louisiana

It's the annual event that celebrates the best little rice-and-meat-stuffed concoction on either side of the Mississippi—and arguably, no place does it better than Scott. Don't miss three days of live music and the chance to eat boudin both competitively and casually. Your mileage may vary. Lots more, too— including arts and crafts, fireworks, and Cajun and Zydeco dance lessons. This year's musical lineup includes performances by Keith Frank, Wayne Toups, Chris Ardoin, Rusty Metoyer, and many more. $10; $75 Carnival Ride Passport. scottboudinfestival.com. 1

APR 4th - APR 6th

MARCHES

RED MAGNOLIA THEATRE COMPANY PRESENTS "LITTLE WOMEN"

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Red Magnolia Theatre Company presents Little Women this spring, returning to a beloved classic to explore a more intimate side of the March sisters. With four actors playing multiple roles, the production takes a creative, unexpected approach to a story that has been retold for audiences many times over. Head to the Studio at Theatre Baton Rouge to watch the sisters engage in a sense of imaginary play in their attic as they dream and grow as women. $35; senior citizens $30; students $25.

For a schedule and more details, visit redmagnoliatc.org. 1

APR 5th

THE GREAT OUTDOORS FÊTE DE LA NATURE: BIOBLITZ Arnaudville, Louisiana

Each year, the arts- and science-loving folks at Atelier de la Nature welcome visitors from near and far to their beautiful Acadiana oasis in Arnaudville. Throughout the day, scientists will head an official BioBlitz—encouraging guests to search the property for as many species of birds, reptiles, insects, plants, fungus, and more that they can find.

The Culinary Institute of Baton Rouge will be serving up boiled crawfish onsite ($20 for three pounds + two potatoes); and live music will be provided by Sweet Crude. Stay until the evening to view a screening of My Louisiana Love, with opening remarks and a Q&A by co-producer and co-writer Monique Verdin. Food and music from noon–2 pm; Bioblitz events lasting all day long, from 6 am–11:30 pm—overnight camping (with a bonfire!) encouraged for a fee of $10. Admission is free, but donations (encouraged) and proceeds from the lunch and beverages will benefit youth educational programs at Atelier de la Nature. Register at eventbrite.com. Details about Atelier de la Nature at atelierdelanature.org. 1

APR 5th

BOTTOMS UP BASIN BREW FESTIVAL

Morgan City, Louisiana

Morgan City raises a glass to the evergrowing craft beer scene with the Basin Brew Fest. Louisiana-based breweries will provide the suds, with tasting portions from a slew of local restaurants. The fest runs from 3 pm–6 pm on the 800 block of Front Street (in the event of rain, the fest will move under the Highway 90 Bridge between the streets), with VIP entry beginning at 2 pm. Regular admission is $40, with unlimited samples; $65 VIP includes early entry, a tap trailer ticket, and lots of swag; $5 Designated Driver Ticket. basinbrewfestmc.com. 1

APR 5th

INKLINGS

JAMBALAYA

WRITERS' CONFERENCE Houma, Louisiana

Celebrating twenty years, the Jambalaya Writers’ Conference returns to the Terrebonne Parish Library for writers of all genres and levels, bibliophiles, and publishing professionals. This year's lineup includes authors, workshops, and opportunities for growth in the literary

Written by Country Roads magazine's own managing editor, Jordan LaHaye Fontenot, Home of the Happy is a compelling blend of true crime and memoir tracing the author’s investigation into the kidnapping and murder of her great-grandfather in 1980s Louisiana, and the reverberations on her family and community throughout the decades.

Events

Beginning April 5th

world. Tom Piazza, author of The Auburn Conference and writer of HBO drama series TREME , will give the keynote address. 9:30 am–5 pm. Visit mytpl.org/ jwc for the full schedule. 1

APR 5th

GOOD EATS CRAWFEST

New Orleans, Louisiana

Did you go to a college where they dumped eighteen thousand pounds of crawfish in the quad each spring?

No? Then be on campus when Tulane University hosts its annual Crawfest (not Crayfest) celebration of mudbugs and music. New Orleans's venerable seat of learning lets down its gown for a day, presenting boiled crawfish by the ton and served up alongside live music by Rattlesnake Milk, Quarters of Change, Cardinal Bloom, Pocket Chocolate, Olivia Barnes, and Lost Bayou Ramblers. Plenty of food vendors and local artists displaying, too. 11 am–7 pm on the Berger Family Lawn. Free for Tulane students or children twelve or younger; $20 otherwise. crawfest.tulane.edu. 1

APR 5th

BLOOMS FESTIVAL DES FLEURS DE LOUISIANE

Lafayette, Louisiana

Lafayette's biggest garden show and sale promises plants, supplies, pottery, tools, gifts, gardening books, garden ornaments and more. Displays by the bonsai, orchid, and daylily societies, door prizes, and children's activities, too. Proceeds benefit the Ira Nelson Horticulture Center at ULL. 8 am–4 pm at Blackham Coliseum. $5. Free for children under twelve. festivaldesfleurs.org. 1

APR 5th

BAYOU BASH

IBERVILLE SWAMP LIFE EXPO

Grosse Tete, Louisiana

Experience the authenticity of Cajun life in the swamp, mere yards from modern highway transportation. The Iberville Visitors' Center hosts this annual program of hands-on demonstrations and cultural displays, which include crawfish trap making and cypress woodcarving. And don't forget the Cajun food, prepared by Atchafalaya locals—crawfish étoufée,

Croatian Fest 2025 returns to Belle Chasse, Louisiana to celebrate Croatian heritage and culture, April 4–5. Try a selection of Croatian food favorites, including grilled sardines, grilled calamari, and čevapčići. For entertainment, don't miss live Croatian music, traditional kolo dance performances, cultural videos, historical exhibits, Croatian cooking demonstrations, and needlework displays. Held at 220 Croatian Way (Ave. G), Belle Chasse, LA 70037. Photo courtesy of the Croatian American Society.

gumbo, pecan pralines, and more. Music provided by Terry & The Zydeco Bad Boys. 10 am–2 pm. Just off I-10 at the Grosse Tete exit. Free. visitiberville.com/ iberville-swamp-life-expo 1

APR 5th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS HUNGARIAN HERITAGE DAY

Hammond, Louisiana

Get your goulash on at the Hungarian

KELLI SCOTT KELLEY • JEREMIAH ARIAZ • SCOTT ANDRESEN

JOHANNA WARWICK • ED SMITH • DENYCE CELENTANO

LOREN SCHWERD • COURTNEY BARR • MICHAELENE WALSH LAUREN GRACIELA CARDENÁS • KRISTINE THOMPSON ANDREW SHURTZ • DERICK OSTRENKO • LESLIE KOPTCHO LYNNE JODDRELL BAGGETT • THE XYZ COLLECTIVE WILLIAM MAXEN • LUISA FERNANDA RESTREPO PÉREZ THE PEN TEST • EDWARD PRAMUK

ON VIEW APRIL 24–AUGUST 3, 2025

Free Public Reception Thursday, April 24 at 6 PM

100 Lafayette St. • Shaw Center for the Arts • Downtown Baton Rouge, LA Learn more about the LSU Museum of Art at lsumoa.org

Thank you to Donald J. Boutté and Michael D. Robinson for supporting this exhibition. Artwork (detail): Denyce Celentano, Story Without an End, 2024. Oil on canvas. Courtesy of the artist.

Heritage Day at the Albany Hungarian Presbyterian Church, for a day of celebration featuring vendor booths, live music, performances by Hungarian dancers, and an opportunity to tour the church and museum. You won't want to miss the goulash cook–off and judging, along with offerings of other Hungarian delicacies to sink your teeth in such as the kolbasz po–boy. 10 am–5 pm. Free. Check out the Presbyterian Church's Facebook for more details. 1

EXCERPT FROM:

Crossroads, Cutoffs, and Confluences:

Origins of Louisiana Cities, Towns, and Villages by Richard Campanella

Hardcover, $49.95; Paperback, $34.95; 216 pp. Louisiana State University Press April 2025

Richard Campanella’s Crossroads, Cutoffs, and Confluences tells the epic story of human settlement in Louisiana, unearthing the original geographical rationales for the formation of hundreds of cities, towns, and villages where most Louisianians live now. Campanella illuminates why these communities formed where they did, be they at river confluences, forks, crossroads, heads of navigation, ferry landings, shortcuts, portages, resource-extraction sites, or railroad stations, and explores other spatial factors that initially attracted settlers. Readers curious about the origins of Louisiana’s cities, towns, and villages can turn to Crossroads, Cutoffs, and Confluences for answers to that most fundamental question of human geography: Why are we here?

(from Chapter 5 – The Western Florida Parishes) . . . . Four of these back roads emanated from Bayou Sara/St. Francisville along Little Bayou Sara, chief of which was the Old Tunica Road. Their destination was a remote landing named Tunica serving steamboats on the Mississippi and plantations along Tunica Bayou. By the early 1900s, the roads were supplemented by two tracks laid through Bayou Sara, that of the Louisiana Railway & Navigation Company, which hugged the base of the Tunica Hills, and that of Woodville & Bayou Sara Railroad, which became a branch of the Yazoo & Mississippi Valley line. Together with the roads, these arteries gave rise to the rural population clusters of “Laurel Hill, Ratcliff, Riddle, Rogillioville, Row Landing, Star Hill, Wakefield, and Weyanoke,” as well as Solitude, Bains, Catalpa, Converse, Brothers, McGehee, Wilcox, Flower Hill, Rosebank, Turnbull, and Retreat. Some formed as arterial increments, post offices, or station stops; others germinated around old plantation houses. None had a population of more than a few score, and only a third endure today.

From the standpoint of modern human geography, the most influential outcome of West Feliciana’s historic arteries, starting with the Old Tunica Road and ending with today’s Highway 66, was the access they provided to a remote plantation at the base of the loess bluffs. That river-fronting bottomland is now home to 6,300 “residents” and 1,800 workers, by far the highest concentration of humanity in the region. Officially the Louisiana State Penitentiary, it is universally known by its historical plantation name—Angola. How the nation’s largest maximum-security prison got sited in “the land of happiness” is the story of a highly controversial policy and one determined man. . . . . . . .

To the question of why 8,000 people now occupy this remote bottomland, it’s probably true that Samuel James could have secured a comparable field elsewhere, and the availability of this particular plantation ultimately explains Angola’s siting. But this parcel was well-positioned for James’s brand of convict labor, and for what the State of Louisiana later needed for its penitentiary. It was located near Baton Rouge, home to the prior prison, and accessible via road, rail, and river, close to most of the state’s people (in fact, Angola is just a few miles from Louisiana’s population centroid, at New Roads). Being fertile bottomland abutting the Mississippi River, Angola needed levees and could yield bumper crops, both of which would enrich James, a levee builder who fancied himself a planter. Angola was also isolated, and when the state purchased it to become the state penitentiary in 1901, officials valued its out-of-sight, out-of-mind location all the more because it was also accessible and convenient. Angola’s siting thus has a spatial rationale, and it strikes a common theme in the geography of incarceration.

Like its western neighbor, East Feliciana Parish had its own web of antebellum roads, but to look at its population distribution today, it is plain to see that the primary settlement vector was the Yazoo & Mississippi Valley Railroad (later the Louisiana, New Orleans & Texas and now the Illinois Central). We have already seen how the men behind this influential artery, commenced in 1882 to link New Orleans to Yazoo City and beyond, ordained today’s Scotlandville, Baker, and Zachary in East Baton Rouge Parish. Originally station stops, these settlements were later paralleled by Highway 19 and are now collectively home to over 40,000 people. As the tracks proceeded northward, the economic magnetism of greater Baton Rouge diminished and the rurality of East Feliciana Parish prevailed, yielding smaller communities at longer intervals.

Crossroads Cutoffs & Confluences

Events

Beginning April 5th - 11th

APR 5th

LIVING HISTORY

EGYPTIAN ART AND ARCHAEOLOGY: A DAY OF HANDS-ON HISTORY

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Head to the Louisiana Art & Science Museum for a day of immersive, hands-on history. In conjunction with Discoveries on the Nile: Exploring King Tut’s Tomb and the Amin Egyptian Collection, the events of the day will be led by Glasgow Middle’s Roman Technology Students, the Louisiana Division of Archaeology, and 2021 Louisiana Teacher of the Year Nathalie Roy. Bring the kids for a memorable experience. 10 am–2 pm. General museum admission prices. lasm.org. 1

APR 5th

FIT & FUN

2025 BATON ROUGE

KIDNEY WALK

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Lace up your walking shoes for the annual Kidney Walk at Highland Road Park in Baton Rouge, the National Kidney Foundation of Louisiana’s (NKFL) largest fundraiser. The event features a non-competitive, two-mile walk. Participants are encouraged to donate a minimum of $10; those who raise $100 will receive an event T-shirt. Event registration begins at 8:30 am. kidneyla.org. 1

APR 5th - APR 6th

GREEN THUMBS

SPRING FLING PLANT SALE

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Your garden's winter blues (well, browns) don't stand a chance against Hilltop Arboretum and its group of "plant literati," all on hand to help stock your garden for the season at this year's Spring Fling Plant Sale. This year, extra attention is placed on local and native plants, from grasses to trees and everything in between. 9 am–4 pm Saturday, Noon–4 pm Sunday. Free. lsu.edu/hilltop. 1

APR 5th - APR 6th

GREEN THUMBS

NEW ORLEANS

SPRING GARDEN SHOW

New Orleans, Louisiana

Gardeners and horticulturalists rejoice: City Park Conservancy and the AgCenter are hosting the New Orleans

Spring Garden Show at the New Orleans Botanical Garden. During this twoday botanical bonanza, peruse exhibits on plant and garden products, explore educational programs and arts and crafts, and bring the kiddos to the children's discovery area. 9 am–4 pm. For details, email gnogardening@agcenter.lsu.edu. 1

APR 5th - APR 6th

WILD SIDE

ZIPPITY ZOO FEST

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

My, oh my, what a wonderful day— celebrate BREC's Baton Rouge Zoo at its annual spring festival. The zoo opened on Easter Day in 1970, and it's been helping families go wild ever since. Expect face painting, animal meet and greets, zookeeper chats, and more. 9:30 am–5 pm each day. Regular admission applies. brzoo.org. 1

APR 5th - APR 6th

FESTIVALS

ART IN THE PASS

Pass Christian, Mississippi

Art in the Pass has been going strong for over two decades now as a two-day fine-arts festival that overlooks the scenic beaches of Mississippi's Gulf Coast. Over one hundred artists from ten states will display and sell their work this weekend at War Memorial Park. There will also be children's activities, tasty treats, the Celebrate the Gulf Marine Education Festival just nearby on Saturday, and live entertainment. Funds go towards arts education and development in local schools. Free. 10 am–5 pm on Saturday and until 4 pm Sunday. artinthepass.com. 1

APR 6th

LITE BITES

EDIBLE BOOK FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Join literature lovers of good humor around the world in celebrating books, food, and terrible puns. What is an edible book, you ask? An edible creation inspired by a book cover, character, theme, etc. Peruse the bizarre, bookinspired creations and vote on categories from "wittiest" to "least-appetizing." Bring your edible homage to great literature between 2 pm–2:30 pm to enter. The winners will be announced and prizes awarded at 5:30 pm. ebrpl.com. 1

APR 6th

HISTORY "CLOSELY AND CONSCIOUSLY: READING AND THE U.S. WOMEN’S LIBERATION MOVEMENT"

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Professor Yung-Hsing Wu discusses her recently published book, Closely and Consciously: Reading and the U.S. Women’s Liberation Movement, at the Main Library at Goodwood. Wu explores the passion and anxiety behind the women's liberation movement, with a particular emphasis on how reading has connected women across the country. Light refreshments will be served. 3 pm. Free, but seating is limited; register at ebrpl.co/events. 1

APR 6th

PERFORMANCES OF MOVING COLORS PRESENTS "HEREAFTER"

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Of Moving Colors Productions, in partnership with the Louisiana Art & Science Museum, presents hereafter, a companion performance to compliment LASM's Egyptian exhibits. The project will involve both visual and performance art, curated by the OMC company of dancers, and seeks to explore the symbolism of a soul passing from life to death before finding peace and rebirth. 3:30 pm. ofmovingcolors.org. 1

APR 6th - OCT 4th

HISTORICAL EXHIBITIONS

JOURNEY THROUGH HISTORY: MAKING IT HOME: FROM VIETNAM TO NEW ORLEANS

New Orleans, Louisiana

In remembrance of the fiftieth anniversary of the fall of Saigon, The Historic New Orleans Collection offers visitors the opportunity to journey through the moving stories of Vietnamese families who settled in New Orleans after the Vietnam War. Titled Making It Home: From Vietnam to New Orleans, the oral histories, personal heirlooms, and photographic portraits recount deeply personal tales of cultural resilience and hope. hnoc.org. 1

APR 8th

DOCUMENTARIES "FINDING US"

SCREENING AND DISCUSSION

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Head to the Main Library at Goodwood for a screening of Finding Us and to listen to the filmmakers discuss their award-winning documentary. Featured on PBS's Reel South, the documentary

explores how Georgetown University sold hundreds of enslaved people to avoid bankruptcy, dispersing and dividing families across the South. Six generations later, with the help of DNA databases, their descendants are forging new connections. 7 p.m. Free. ebrpl.org. 1

APR 10th

MUSIC

MUSICIANS' FÊTE

Port Allen, Louisiana

Join the West Baton Rouge Museum, in collaboration with the Baton Rouge Blues Festival and Foundation, for the second annual Musicians' Fête, the preevent for the Baton Rouge Blues Fest which aims to promote and preserve the rich cultural tradition of musicians in the community. The day starts at noon with a luncheon, and will be followed by an afternoon of impromptu jams, engaging speakers, networking opportunities, and a resource fair, including legal and business advice, and access to the East Baton Rouge Parish Library's recording studio. The fête will conclude with a Mix Tape Mixer. Noon–7 pm. Free. westbatonrougemuseum.org. 1

APR 10th

MUSIC

SAXOPHONE QUARTET

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

In this Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra performance, Griffin Campbell, principal saxophone, leads a quartet through several riveting pieces spanning different genres at the Unitarian Church. The program for the evening includes Carter Pann's The Mechanics: Six from the Shop Floor, Faustin and Maurice Jeanjean's Quartet for Saxophones, and Chloe Goodchild's Self Inside Self. 7:30 pm–9:30 pm. $30. brso.org. 1

APR 10th

GREEN THUMBS

EBR MASTER GARDENERS PRESENTS: ORCHIDS

Zachary, Louisiana

For those interested in learning more about orchids this spring, head to Zachary Library to get tips and tricks from East Baton Rouge Master Gardener Kathy Conerly. Explore the different types of orchids and their individual needs, learn what makes them special, how to keep them alive, how to propagate them, and more. Conerly will even demonstrate how to propagate them. 5:30 pm. Free. ebrmg.wildapricot.org. 1

APR

10th

ART GRAD WALK 2025: LSU SCHOOL OF ART STUDIO OPEN HOUSE

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Spend an evening strolling through the LSU School of Art to view Art MFA graduate studios and meet the artists in the midst of their processes. Explore painting, photography, drawing, ceramics, digital art, and sculpture studio exhibits before ending at the sculpture garden for food and drinks—all beneath the light of one hundred lanterns made by first-year art undergraduate art students. 5:30 pm–8 pm. Free. design.lsu.edu. 1

APR 10th - APR 12th

BOOKWORMS

LSU BOOK BAZAAR

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Bookworms, rejoice! Volunteers from the Friends of the LSU Libraries Book Barn have gathered a veritable mountain of books for the 2025 Book Bazaar, requiring their return to the John M. Parker Coliseum to accommodate them all. Thousands of books representing dozens of categories will be up for grabs, from contemporary fiction to rare and collectible books. They come in all forms and sizes, from hardback to leather bound and oversized. Proceeds from the Bazaar go into an endowment supporting LSU Libraries. 9 am–7 pm Thursday and Friday; 9 am–5 pm Saturday. Admission is free. lib.lsu.edu/about/friends/bazaar. 1

APR 10th - APR 13th

MUSIC FRENCH QUARTER

FESTIVAL

New Orleans, Louisiana

The largest free music festival in the South is back at the most beautiful time of year to spread four days of musical performances throughout the French Quarter. Every genre is represented here, from traditional and contemporary jazz, to rhythm and blues, New Orleans funk, zydeco, brass bands, folk, opera, and gospel. This year's headliners are Bag of Donuts, Ben E. Hunter, Beausoleil avec Michael Doucet, Al "Lil Fats" Jackson, Anders Osborne, Anais St. John, Charmaine Neville, and so many more. The music beckons from twenty music stages arrayed around the Quarter, and delicious smells waft from over fifty New Orleans restaurants and chefs selling food. Fireworks snap, crackle, and pop above the Mississippi, too. 10 am–8 pm. Free. fqfi.org. 1

APR 10th - APR 13th

MUSIC

JUKE JOINT FESTIVAL

Clarksdale, Mississippi

Clarksdale, Mississippi holds claim as the "birthplace of the blues." For over twenty years now, "the world's biggest little blues festival" holds court, filling the tiny Delta town with a huge variety of music acts, racing pigs, monkeys riding dogs, workshops, history bus tours, and much, much more. A host of pre-festival celebrations will take place all week, but the main event is Saturday—which will center blues music on twenty two stages all throughout the city and long

into the night. Get the whole schedule at jukejointfestival.com. 1

APR 11th

SPRING SHOPPING

ANTIQUE FAIR & YARD SALE

Washington, Louisiana

Come to historic Washington for a chance to browse the wares of over two hundred vendors at this enormous Antique Fair & Yard Sale at the historic, circa-1934 Old Schoolhouse Antique Mall—all 40,000 square feet of it. Expect plenty of food and fun, but perhaps more importantly, great bargains on a wide variety of decorative tidbits for house, home, office,

yard, or anywhere. 9 am–5 pm each day. oldschoolhouseantiquemall.com. 1

APR

11th - APR 13th

ART OUTINGS

EN PLEIN AIR ART EXHIBIT

Abita Springs, Louisiana

For its sixteenth year, the En Plein Air Landscape Art Show at the Abita Springs Trailhead Museum will showcase twentynine artists depicting nearly one hundred paintings of outdoor scenes in St. Tammany Parish. Featured artists include Jo Ann Ciolino Adams, Ben Bensen III, David Blackwell, and others, A reception will be held April 11 from 5 pm–8pm.

Events

Beginning April 11th

10 am–4 pm Saturday; 10 am–2 pm Sunday. Contact Lynnette Soules at (985)264-0528 or lynnabita@hotmail.com. 1

APR 11th - APR 13th

RETAIL THERAPY

MARKET AT THE MILL

New Roads, Louisiana

The City of New Roads will once again present its twice-annual spring shopping extravaganza, Market at the Mill, at the historic cotton mill located three blocks north of Main Street, off Community Street. Complement your shopping with antiques, food and beverages, crafts, and more. 9 am–6 pm Friday, 10 am–5 pm Saturday; Noon–4 pm Sunday. Admission is $5. marketathemillnewroads.com. 1

APR 11th - APR 13th

CULTURAL FESTIVALS EL FESTIVAL ESPAÑOL DE NUEVA IBERIA

New Iberia, Louisiana

This popular celebration of New Iberia's Spanish roots returns, offering three days of events and activities all centered around the town's central Bouligny Plaza

celebrating Nueva Iberia with food, music, and culture. The festivities begin Wednesday with a Mass of Thanksgiving and the blessing of the Crochet ceiling in Church Alley. Friday evening, things kick off with an arts & crafts show, carnival rides, and a shrimp boil fundraiser—The Eighties Experience and Seasoned Soul will provide the tunes. On Saturday, be sure to catch the "Running of the Bull’s" dog-friendly 5K/1 Mile Fun Run, a Founding Families Parade, a paella cooking contest and a paella eating contest, carnival rides, and much more. Sunday's for the kids, with a jambalaya cook-off and Easter egg hunt—the live music continues through the afternoon. Free admission. newiberiaspanishfestival.com. 1

APR 11th - APR 13th

VERY GOOD BOYS

SUPER RETRIEVER

SERIES CLASSIC

Saint Francisville, Louisiana

Calling all very good boys (and their doting humans)! The Super Retriever Series is coming to St. Francisville.

the dynamic nature of domestic spaces, questioning how they shape the self while setting the stage for the most intimate human experiences. In four movements, the exhibition spans the spectrum of emotion—all confined within (and witnessed by) the walls of a home. Brisco's work captures the mundane moments of daily life through a skillful manipulation of light and shadow,imitating hazy memories. His exhibition will be on display through July 5, part of the museum's Spring Awake opening 2025 season featuring two other exhibitions and new programming. The above piece is titled "Demons Done Got His Ass." Courtesy of the Hilliard Art Museum.

Aiming to showcase the best all-around retrievers and sporting dogs, along with the top High Flying Super Dock dogs, the competition sure to delight dog enthusiasts features more than 100 dogs competing in outdoor sports and will take place over four days at the West Feliciana Sports Park. Events include the long jump, the high jump, and a speed

race called "Raider Run." There is even a "Fun Jump" for dogs who prefer to live as pets (rather than competitors). Bring your lawnchair and the whole family to watch dogs fly through the air at distances up to twenty-five feet, and heights up to seven feet. Free. A full schedule, along with further details, can be found at visitstfrancisvillela.com. 1

Events

Beginning April 11th - 19th

APR 11th - APR 13th

BERRY GOOD TIMES

PONCHATOULA

STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL

Ponchatoula, Louisiana

Celebrate the season with a strawberrystained grin at the annual Ponchatoula Strawberry Festival. From humble beginnings, the event has ripened into a true Louisiana celebration to which thousands travel. Come take part in the rides, games, music, food, and of course, the finest Louisiana strawberries. A dizzying array of events includes the Strawberry Parade (kicks off Saturday morning), Strawberry Auction, and Strawberry Strut as well as carnival rides, food booths, games like the strawberryeating contest (picture it!), sack races, nonstop musical entertainment, pageantry, and kids' activities, all in Ponchatoula Memorial Park. Free. lastrawberryfestival.com. 1

APR 11th - APR 27th

MUSICALS "RENT"

Slidell, Louisiana

Slidell Little Theatre presents Rent, the hit musical based loosely on Puccini's La Boheme, written by Jonathan Larson. The musical follows a group of young artists and musicians living under the threat of HIV/AIDS while striving to make a living in New York's Lower East Side. Negotiating their dreams, relationships, and identities, the friends work through their emotional and interpersonal complications over the course of a year. 8 pm on Fridays and Saturdays; 2 pm Sundays. $35; $25 for students and seniors. slidelllittletheatre.org. 1

APR 12th

MINIATURES

LOUISIANA DOLL FESTIVAL

DeRidder, Louisiana

DeRidder, Louisiana is home to Lois Loftin's remarkable 3,000+ collection of dolls, preserved in a museum on West 1st Street inside the Beauregard Tourist Commission. This remarkable display, ranging from fine European porcelain circa 1820s to simple handmade Louisiana dolls, is the pride of the town and at the heart of the annual Doll Festival founded in 1997. Each spring, the town comes together in full festival flair, with games, superhero and princess costume contests, a 5K, a pageant, delicious local food, a doll parade, live music, and a celebration of the doll-making and -collecting

tradition here in Louisiana. Details at louisianadollfestival.com. 1

APR 12th

GREEN THUMBS

HAMMOND SPRING GARDEN

DAY AND PLANT SALE

Hammond, Louisiana

As the days begin to warm up, swing by the LSU AgCenter Hammond Research Station for the 2025 Hammond Spring Garden Day and Plant Sale. The day will feature plant-centric exhibits, gardening advice, and seminars—and of course, activities for the littles, along with tasty treats. 7:30 am–1 pm. Visit the 2025 Hammond Spring Garden Day Facebook page for details. 1

APR 12th

SEASONAL CELEBRATIONS

SPRING FOR ART

Covington, Louisiana

Celebrate the arrival of spring, as well as local art and artists at Spring for Art—a celebratory event in downtown Covington featuring live music, art, performance, food, and much more. 6 pm–9 pm. Free. sttammany.art/spring-for-art. 1

APR 12th

HAUNTINGS

CAJUN COUNTRY PARA–CON

New Iberia, Louisiana

Calling all seekers of the supernatural and enthusiasts of the unexplained to join the second annual Cajun Country Para-Con for an eerie time, brought to you by Louisiana Spirits and the City of New Iberia. Head to Vermilionville Village for lectures and encounters with ghost-hunting icons like Natalie Jones and Sarah Lemos. The event will also host Cajun culinary delights and a free, self-guided tour of the historic village. 11 am–4 pm. $20 at Eventbrite; VIP tickets gain you entry into the night investigation. lafayettetravel.com. 1

APR 12th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

THE SCOTTISH

TARTAN FESTIVAL

Minden, Louisiana

Those with Scottish heritage (or anyone who likes plaid and Scotch eggs), are invited to visit the charming, recentlyrenowned (thanks to HGTV and the Magnolia Network) town of Minden

this spring. For the annual Scottish Tartan Festival, expect Scottish highland dancing, demonstrations ranging from blacksmithing to flintknapping to learning the Gaelic language, a dog show, a children's area, Great Raft Beer, and lots more other Scottish medieval fun. $15 adults, children ages six through eleven $5, children under five free. louisianahighlands.scot. 1

APR 12th - APR 13th

RETAIL THERAPY

BATON ROUGE SPRING CRAFT AND VENDOR MARKET

Gonzales, Louisiana

Hop on over to the Tanger Outlets in Gonzales for an all-things-spring market. Local vendors, seasonal treats, and other items for all occasions are sure to please. 10 am–4 pm Saturday; 10 am–5 pm Sunday. Free. See the Baton Rouge Spring Craft & Vendor Market Facebook page for details. 1

APR 12th - APR 13th

BALLET

ALICE IN WONDERLAND

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Audiences will find themselves transported to a world of imagination in this Baton Rouge Ballet Theatre performance of Lewis Carroll's childhood classic, Alice in Wonderland

A newly-choreographed ballet, the performance will feature Carroll's iconic characters, from the White Rabbit and Mad Hatter, to the Queen of Hearts and, of course, Alice herself. 2 pm. $35–$55. batonrougeballet.org. 1

APR 13th

RURAL LIFE

AN OLD-FASHIONED EASTER

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Get ready for an egg-citing time at the LSU Rural Life Museum's oldfashioned Easter celebration. Hosted annually by the museum, this event promises a delightful eggs-perience for all ages, featuring cherished Louisiana Easter traditions. Activities include Easter Bunny photos, egg dyeing, and egg hunts, among other events. 2 pm–4:30 pm. $8; free for ages three and younger. lsu.edu/rurallife. 1

APR 16th

BOOK TALK "HOME OF THE HAPPY: A MURDER ON THE CAJUN PRAIRIE"

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Join Country Roads magazine editor Jordan LaHaye Fontenot as she discuses

her debut, true crime book, Home of the Happy: A Murder on the Cajun Prairie at the Main Library at Goodwood.

A powerful account of the death of her great-grandfather, a titan in the small community of Mamou, who was murdered more than four decades ago, the story explores how his death impacted the rural, tight-knit enclave. Books will be available for purchase. 6 pm. Free. ebrpl.org. 1

APR 18th - APR 20th

CULTURAL FESTIVALS

LAO NEW YEAR CELEBRATION

Broussard, Louisiana

Iberia Parish's not inconsiderable Laotian community holds its New Year celebration, known as Songkran, every Easter weekend, and thousands from near and far will be there to honor a tradition that preserves Laotian culture here in Louisiana. The friendly folks of Lanexang Village and the temple there, Wat Thammarattanaram, present parades, authentic cuisine and clothing, jewelry, sand castle building, live music and dancing, pageantry, and children's activities. All are welcome. (337) 6583229 or visit the event Facebook Page. 1

APR 19th

CYCLISTS

LOUISIANA

BICYCLE FESTIVAL

Abita Springs, Louisiana

“Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the future of the human race.” Encouraging words from H.G. Wells, who would no doubt endorse the Louisiana Bicycle Festival. Each year, bike enthusiasts take over the tiny town of Abita Springs during this day-long festival to see and show antique and creative custom bikes, and even catch a parade. There's a bike flea market, Tammany Trace cruise, and plenty of contests and prizes for twowheeled tricks. Live music and festival food, too, at a bike fest that the webzine Bike Ride & Custom has declared “the biggest custom bike festival in the United States.” The festival cycles townwide, but look for cyclists gathering at the Trailhead from 9 am–5 pm, and be sure not to miss the traditional ride through town at 1 pm. Free. louisiananorthshore.com. 1

APR 19th

SEASONAL HAPPENINGS

SPRING STREET

FESTIVAL & CAR SHOW

New Roads, Louisiana

The fun-lovin' folks on False River

Events

Beginning April 19th - 22nd

greet spring with this annual antique car and motorcycle show that attracts upwards of three hundred vehicles amid a day of food, music, arts & crafts, children's activities, and plenty of spring fever festivities. The car show is open to all categories of cars, trucks, and motorcycles, with top-fifty awards, mayor's choice, and sponsors' awards all up for grabs. Early registration is $30 to participate. Free to attend. newroadscarshow.com. 1

APR 19th - MAY 11th

ART EXHIBITIONS

TALENTED STUDENT ART OF WEST BATON ROUGE

Port Allen, Louisiana

The West Baton Rouge Museum presents the Talented Student Art Exhibition, highlighting the work of K-12 Talented Art Students from West Baton Rouge Parish public schools. Showcasing different artistic expressions, the exhibition will include a range of approaches, from two-dimensional works using paper and canvas, to three-dimensional ceramic or paper mâché sculptures. A reception will be

held April 25 at the Historical Happy Hour with music by Hanna PK. westbatonrougemuseum.org. 1

APR 19th - MAY 25th

ART EXHIBITIONS

MASTER STROKES:

THE ART OF EDUCATORS

Port Allen, Louisiana

The West Baton Rouge Museum presents an exhibition showcasing the work of five art teachers from the Talented Art Program of West Baton Rouge. Titled Master Strokes: The Art of Educators, the exhibition will feature artists Carmen Guy, Aliah James, Kim Kennedy, Christie Markins, and Amanda Vince. Their artwork spans various mediums and provides a rare snapshot into the passion and creativity bolstering the next generation of young artists. westbatonrougemuseum.org. 1

APR 22nd

INSECT INQUIRIES

DISCOVER NATURE: GARDEN ALLIES

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

April's Discover Nature program at

vid Simpson. This year, the Cook-Off kicks off at the Northwest Pavilion at 10 am. See more on page 25.

The traveling exhibit Solomon Northup: Hope Out of Darkness will continue through Louisiana before its final installation in Marksville in 2026. A bronze likeness of Northup standing twelve feet tall, the monument began its journey at the Whitney Plantation in February. The statue traveled to the Alexandria Museum of Art on March 17, and remains until April 22, and will later move to two New York locations. Photo courtesy of the Solomon Northup Committee for Commemorative Works.

New Orleans Jazz is Headed to France

This summer, a new cultural exchange program will send eight Louisiana students to Brittany—home of the Jazz y Krampouez Festival

This summer, eight young musicians from New Orleans will travel across the Atlantic to showcase the sounds of their city in the ancient town of Quimper, France. The adventure is part of a new cultural exchange program facilitated by the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Foundation’s Don “Moose” Heritage School of Music, which has partnered with the Quimper-based music organization Aprèm Jazz.

Rooted in Tradition, with an Eye Toward the Future

“Like the Jazz & Heritage Foundation, Aprèm Jazz is also dedicated to supporting their local musicians and music customs,” said Derek Douget, Director of Music Education at the Heritage School of Music, “The young musicians supported by Aprèm Jazz learn the traditional music of Brittany, as well as Jazz. They are rooted in tradition with an eye toward the future.”

Since 1990, the Heritage School of Music has served close to three hundred New Orleans students, ages 8–18, providing free afterschool music lessons every week. Students not only have access to high-quality instruction by some of the city’s best-known working musicians, but also get opportunities to perform in a variety of venues, and to take advantage of audio and studio recording classes.

With this being the first international trip ever in the program’s history, Douget is excited about the opportunities the experience will offer the Heritage School of Music students making the trip, even beyond the opportunity to perform in front of new audiences. Travel experiences like these, he said, represent an opportunity for people to witness the collective nature of humanity, especially when it comes to the arts.

“For some, this will be their first time traveling abroad,” Douget said. “This is an opportunity for our students to see another culture up-close, and compare how students in Quimper live. My hope is that they will see how the French students learn and nurture the indigenous music of their region, while also studying modern music. I think this will give them a deeper appreciation for New Orleans music and culture.”

The program, which leaders from the Heritage School of Music and Aprèm Jazz have been developing since last spring, is designed to focus on creativity, collaboration, new performance experiences, and emphasize music as a shared tool and a force across cultures.

Once the Heritage School of Music students arrive in Quimper, they will meet and jam with students of Aprèm Jazz, as well as students who play in local traditional Breton bands. They’ll explore the area, immersing themselves in the local culture during the Festival de Cornouaille and the Jazz y Krampouez Festival in Concarneau. They’ll also perform at both of these festivals, exposing the people of Quimper to the musical traditions of New Orleans jazz.

The program is designed to be reciprocal, and plans are already in the works between the Jazz & Heritage Foundation and the French Consulate for students from Aprèm Jazz to visit New Orleans in spring, 2026. “We will provide performing opportunities to them, as well as opportunities to meet with our students and teachers,” said Douget. “They will get to hear brass bands, traditional New Orleans music, modern styles, and as much music as we can fit into their stay.”

Learn more about the Don “Moose” Heritage School of Music at www.heritageschoolofmusic.com

A special advertising feature from New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Foundation

Events

Beginning April 23rd - 25th

the LSU Hilltop Arboretum features Frank Rinkevich, who will deliver a lecture on insects and how they are under-appreciated, critical members of a thriving ecosystem. Rinkevich, a Research Entomologist at the USDAARS Honey Bee Breeding, Genetics, and Physiology Laboratory, will discuss contributions insects have made to humanity, their nutrient recycling and ecosystem services, and their contribution to the food chain, among other topics. 6:30 pm–8 pm. $15; $10 for students and members. Register at lsu.edu/hilltop. 1

APR 23rd - APR 24th

MUSIC

COUNTRY HITS: A TRIBUTE TO COUNTRY MUSIC LEGENDS

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Calling all Country music fans. Head to the Irene W. Pennington Planetarium as part of the Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra's new Concerts in the Cosmos series for a night of country music's greatest hits. Performed by BRSO musicians, the concert will include small bites and wine. 7:30 pm. $40–$60. brso.org. 1

APR 23rd - APR 27th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DE LOUISIANE

Lafayette, Louisiana

Anyone looking for a reason to feel proud to be a Louisianan need only make plans to be in downtown Lafayette when this beloved five-day festival returns in full-force to Acadiana, bringing artists from countries the world over—with an emphasis on the Francophone diaspora—to Lafayette. Music, visual arts, theatre, dance, and cuisine combine into a melting pot that celebrates the common threads that bind their cultures and Louisiana's own artistic expressions together. "Festival," as it is simply called by the locals, transforms downtown Lafayette into an entertainment complex with many music stages presenting local, international, and emerging musicians; food court areas, street musicians, and animators; arts & crafts boutiques; art galleries; cultural workshops; and a world music store. As usual, scores of bands this year are coming from all corners of the globe, and plenty of Louisiana greats are there to make things complete. It's big, it's colorful, and best of all, it's free! festivalinternational.org. 1

APR 24th

MUSIC

THE HARP MACHINE: WORLDLY RHYTHMS & SOULFUL VIBES

New Orleans, Louisiana

The Marigny Opera House presents a musical experience to remember, featuring a mix of traditional blues, global sounds, and wild improvisation. The Harp Machine showcases the talents of Venezuelan electric harpist Leonard Jacome and harmonicist, vocalist, and guitarist Willy B, alongside the following all-star guests: New Orleans cellist, vocalist Helen Gillet, and drummer and vocalist Terry Scott Jr. Merging different genres of music and relying heavily on Latin and Afro-Caribbean influences, the night promises a signature sound and powerful performances. 8 pm. $30 for front two rows of cushioned chairs; $15–$20 for general admission. marignyoperahouse.org. 1

APR 24th

GREEN THUMBS

EBR MASTER GARDENERS

PRESENTS: CUTTING GARDENS AND GROWING HERBS

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

East Baton Rouge Master Gardeners is offering two talks at Carver Branch Library perfect for those green thumb enthusiasts eager to make the most of incoming spring weather. First, Master Gardener Joy Boudreaux will walk attendees through how to grow the best flowers for cutting. Then, Master Gardener Kathy Mullin will share her knowledge of herbs, including how to make them last and how to enhance the smell of certain plants to add depth of scent to your garden. 5:30 pm. Free. ebrmg.wildapricot.org. 1

APR 24th - APR 27th

MORE THAN JUST MUSIC

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL

New Orleans, Louisiana

The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival is the city's hallmark international music festival, famous for immersing the country's most powerful entertainers in the city of New Orleans' incomparable musical legacy. Big names at Jazz Fest have included Katy Perry, Van Morrison, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Rolling Stones, and scores more. This year's festival is headlined by Pearl Jam, Dave Matthews Band, Lil Wayne, Lenny Kravitz, Kacey Musgraves, and many more of the nation's biggest performers.

But we all know that Jazz Fest isn’t just about big names, as there are hundreds of other closer-to-home musicians and bands on the schedule this year, each bringing their unique style and following. In addition to the music, happening simultaneously on multiple stages, the Heritage Fair offers its lipsmacking array of food (more than one hundred varieties available), as well as contemporary and folk crafts. Numerous areas highlight Louisiana’s diverse influences, including the Congo Square African Marketplace, the Contemporary Crafts area, and Louisiana Marketplace. Festival parades, starring brass bands and marching clubs, begin and end in Heritage Square. Everything happens at the New Orleans Fairgrounds. Four day early bird passes for each weekend start at $290 for Louisiana Residents; single-day tickets will go on sale at a later date. VIP and travel package options also available. nojazzfest.com. 1

APR 25th

FUNDRAISERS

AN EVENING AT WINDRUSH

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Against the backdrop of a beautiful, breezy spring evening, settle in for an unforgettable evening of music and delicious food amid the stunning Windrush Gardens at Burden. Enjoy delectable cocktails and an elegant Southern supper, prepared by the renowned Chef John Folse. All proceeds benefit the Friends of LSU Rural Life Museum. 6:30 pm–9 pm. $175. bontempstix.com. 1

APR 25th - APR 26th

YES, AND... BATON ROUGE IMPROV FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Join some of the funniest folks in the Baton Rouge area for a two-day celebration of comedic improvisation.

Events will include improv performances by groups and individuals from all over the world, networking opportunities, panel discussions, and workshops with some of the most talented improv teachers, performers, and special guest instructors. This hybrid event will be presented in person on stage at the Studio Theatre at the LSU School of Drama and other nearby stages, and via livestreams. $12; $8 for students. batonrougeimprovfest.com. 1

APR 25th - APR 26th

GOOD EATS PARKS CRACKLIN COOKOFF

Parks, Louisiana

Chewy, crunchy, or with a thick seam of meat—no matter how you like your cracklin, there will be a version for you at this cookout and festival. Expect a poker run, raffles, fun jumps, arts & crafts, and other fun along with live music, featuring Darel Gros & High Rollin Band, Nik-L Beer, Kajun Iron Horse Riders, Adam Leger Band, Eighties Experience, Laik Clause, and Corey Ledet Zydeco. Everything takes place at Poché Memorial Park in Parks. 6 pm–11 pm Friday; 10 am–11:30 pm Saturday. $5. parkscracklincookoff.com. 1

APR 25th - APR 26th

ALL A TWITTER THE GRAND ISLE MIGRATORY BIRD CELEBRATION

Grand Isle, Louisiana

Every April since 1998, during the height of spring migration, the Grand Isle Sanctuary Group has hosted The Grand Isle Migratory Bird Celebration, when the protected pockets around Grand Isle will be the educational playground of bird lovers who will flock to the area, binoculars in hand, to explore

Held in Pass Christian, Mississippi, the Art in the Pass festival features more than one hundred artists displaying and selling their work at War Memorial Park. Funds support arts education and development in local schools. April 5–6. Photo courtesy of Art in the Pass. More on page 16.

Events

Beginning April 25th

the chenieres via kayak and boat tours, attend educational workshops on bird banding and native plant identification, take in local history, attend talks by avian experts, peruse local artwork, and otherwise enjoy all nature has to offer amid stunning vistas. 1 pm–7 pm Friday; 7 am–6:30 pm Saturday. Most events are free. Agendas, vicinity maps, birding trail maps, accommodations, and directions are available at townofgrandisle.com/ grand-isle-migratory-bird-festival. 1

APR 25th - APR 26th

BOTTOMS UP

BOOT BREW FEST

Eunice, Louisiana

The weekend after Easter means it's time for Boot Brew Fest—a hearty gathering of homebrewers from across the region at Lakeview Park and Beach. Featuring ample educational opportunities for burgeoning brewers, plus plenty of samples from seasoned experts, the event ends very properly with a Cajun barn dance and awards ceremony. $10 admission; $40 for full festival access (beer samples, a souvenir tasting cup, and

a food voucher); $65 for VIP (full festival access, plus a souvenir t-shirt and early access to the festival). Must be twenty-one years old or older. bootbrewfest.com. 1

APR 25th - APR 27th

GOOD EATS

PLAQUEMINES PARISH

SEAFOOD FESTIVAL

Belle Chasse, Louisiana

Plaquemines Parish Seafood Festivalgoers get the opportunity to feast on fresh Gulf Coast seafood (of course), bow down before the Seafood Queen, peruse crafts from talented local artisans, watch the big oyster drop, enjoy some favorite carnival games and rides, and experience an eclectic mix of local music. It's a three-day seafood extravaganza for the dedicated Louisianan and foodie, celebrating what makes the state a special place for culture and cuisine alike. The festival is held at 333 F Edward Hebert Boulevard in Belle Chasse, just off of Woodland Hwy. Friday from 6 pm–10:30 pm; Saturday from 11:30 am–10:30 pm; and Sunday from 11:30 am–8:30 pm. plaqueminesparishfestival.com. 1

APR 25th - APR 27th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

THE ITALIAN FESTIVAL

Tickfaw, Louisiana

Combine the proud Louisiana parade tradition with the Italian pasta tradition (meatball toss and all!), add in some classic small-town festival fare and a Saturday parade, and you've got The Italian Festival in downtown Tickfaw, celebrating fifty-two years this year. 5 pm–11 pm Friday; 10 am– 11 pm Saturday; and 10 am–6 pm Sunday. theitalianfestivalorg.com. 1

APR 25th - APR 27th

GOOD EATS

ARNAUDVILLE ÉTOUFFÉE FESTIVAL

Arnaudville, Louisiana

Over forty years young, this annual affair at the Little Flower Auditorium occasions the creation (and consumption) of all sorts of étouffée, then adds in a healthy dose of friendly rivalry, children's activities, a car show, carnival rides, bingo, and antique shopping. Cookoff begins at 11:30 am on Saturday, and live music will go all weekend long. Free admission. (337) 754-5912. arnaudvillecatholic.org. 1

APR 25th - APR 27th

RETAIL THERAPY THE GONZALES

MAGNOLIA MARKET

Gonzales, Louisiana

With Mother's Day around the corner, graduation season soon to be in full swing, and summer getaways ahead, the search for gifts can feel daunting, to say the least. Stop by The Gonzales Magnolia Market at the Lamar Dixon Expo Center for all your seasonal needs, including jewelry and apparel. 10 am–5 pm Friday and Saturday; 10 am–4 pm Sunday. attexpomarket.com/magnolia-market. 1

APR 25th - APR 28th

INTO THE WILD

BATON ROUGE CITY

NATURE CHALLENGE 2025

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Embrace your wild side this April with the tenth annual City Nature Challenge in Greater Baton Rouge. Participants just need a phone and some friends to explore the great outdoors and document the wild plants and animals they find in the iNaturalist app and iNaturalist. org website. The Louisiana Master Naturalists of Greater Baton Rouge hope to document nature in the following parishes: Ascension, East Baton Rouge, East Feliciana, Iberia, Iberville, Lafayette,

You’re free to live your life out loud! Because you’ve got the compassion of the cross, the security of the shield, and the comfort of Blue behind you.

Events

Beginning April 26th

Livingston, Pointe Coupee, St. Helena, St. Landry, St. Martin, St. Tammany, Tangipahoa, Washington, West Baton Rouge, and West Feliciana. Find out more information at brnaturechallenge.org. 1

APR 26th

BEVVIES

GALVEZ RUM FESTIVAL

Jackson, Louisiana

Hosted at Galvez Rum Distillery Tasting Rooms & Gardens in Jackson, the second annual Galvez Rum Festival promises a day of drinks, music, and more. Enjoy scheduled rum tastings, daiquiris, and cocktails available for purchase all day, featuring Galvez's signature rum bottled on-site. There will also be merch available and more. 1 pm–8 pm. $10. galvezrum.com. 1

APR 26th

FESTIVALS

VICKSBURG MUSIC AND CULTURE FESTIVAL

Vicksburg, Florida

Head to historic Downtown Vicksburg to listen to live music at Washington

Street Park and Gordon’s Alley. The afternoon will also include a fashion show, shopping, and dining experiences. This year's event is part of the city's bicentennial celebration. Noon–7 pm. Free. visitvicksburg.com. 1

APR 26th

GOOD EATS

ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT

CRAWFISH COOK-OFF

Slidell, Louisiana

Historically, this 40,000 pound crawfish feast hosted by the Hospice Foundation of the South was considered the largest one-day event on the Northshore. Over fifty teams will be boiling away in Fritchie Park in Slidell, and guests will have access to as much as they can eat. In addition to stuffing your face, look forward to an afternoon of live music, including entertainment from a lineup including Tyler Kinchen, The Right Pieces, and Karma. 11 am–5 pm. $40 includes all you can eat crawfish. Other food and beverages will be available for purchase. crawfishtickets.com. 1

NATCHEZ FESTIVAL OF MUSIC

Natchez, Mississippi

Every May since 1991, the Natchez Festival of Music has been making

Broadway musicals, jazz, and special concerts in historic venues around the city. This April, catch a concert dedicated to BB King of the Mississippi Blues—

Head to the Red Stick Farmers Market on April 5 at 5th and Main streets in downtown Baton Rouge to celebrate all things strawberry. The event includes live music, a cooking demo, strawberry-themed activities for the kiddos, and more. 8 am–noon. Photo courtesy of Red Stick Farmers Market.

Events

Beginning April 26th

Celebrating the BB King Centennial, performed by Mississippi Grammy awardwinning recording artist Vasti Jackson. 7 pm at the Natchez Civic Center. $35. natchezfestivalofmusic.com. 1

APR 26th

MUSIC

THIS IS HOME FEST

Lake Charles, Louisiana

Folks will flock into the 1000 block of Ryan Street in downtown Lake Charles for this music festival, all in the name of celebrating the rich culture and music of Southwest Louisiana. This year's headliners include Eric Gales, Grace Bowers & the Hodge Podge, Young Band Nation, Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys, Zydecane featuring Damon Troy, and more. Free. thisishomefest.com. 1

APR 26th - APR 27th

HIGH FLYERS

KITE FEST LOUISIANE

Port Allen, Louisiana

Here's something to put some wind in your sails. April is National Kite Month; so, once again, West Baton Rouge is

launching high-flying festivities at the West Baton Rouge Soccer Complex. The event has been named "Festival of the Year" by the Louisiana Travel Promotion Association and a Top 20 Event by the Southeast Tourism Society. Attendance has grown tenfold over the years, ballooning to twenty thousand people or so, and on more than one day. The kite-loving crowds will get to enjoy a kite design contest, indoor kite flying, and other professional kite exhibitions, plenty to eat and drink, kite vendors, musical entertainment, kite-flying lessons, and kite-building workshops. Plus, don't miss the big fireworks display on Saturday night. Free. westbatonrouge.net. 1

APR 26th - APR 27th

THEATRE “REUNION"

Lafayette, Louisiana

Cité des Arts presents a special added production to its 2025 theatre season as part of Festival International de Louisiane, titled Reunion. Written and directed by Patricia Cravins, the play follows a prominent Creole family grappling with uncovered secrets at an

annual family reunion. When stories, lies, and past fears collide with a family seeking answers, the only resolution can be found through love, truth, and a bit of humor to ease the pain. 2 pm and 7:30 pm Saturday; 2 pm Sunday. $25. citedesarts.org. 1

APR

26th - APR 27th

RETAIL THERAPY ANTIQUES AND UNIQUES FESTIVAL

Covington, Louisiana

Two days of eclecticism await: antique furnishings, period collectibles, random knick-knacks, and adorable hats. The Covington Heritage Foundation's juried, free Antiques & Uniques Festival is back, featuring over fifty vendors selling locally-made fine art, antiques, architectural salvage, period collectables, food, and more. 10 am–5 pm Saturday and Sunday at the Covington Trailhead. Free. covingtonantiquesanduniquesfestival. com 1

APR 26th - APR 27th

HISTORY

CIVIL WAR REENACTMENT AND LIVING HISTORY

Saint Francisville, Louisiana

Experience the drama and history of the American Civil War in a unique way as

the Audubon State Historic Site recreates the October 1864 battle that took place across the park. Visitors will observe firsthand how soldiers trained for battle and observe activities such as artillery drills, musket firing demonstrations, infantry drills, and more. They can also explore the encampment grounds to witness what life was like during the nineteenth century through displays on period dress, open hearth cooking, music, and much more. 10 am–3 pm. (225)-635-3739. 1

APR 26th - APR 27th

THEATRE "THE LAST DAYS OF JUDAS ISCARIOT"

Mandeville, Louisiana

30 by Ninety Theatre presents The Last Days of Judas Iscariot, a darkly comic performance set in the space between heaven and hell. The play explores the fate of the New Testament's most notorious sinner. 8 pm Fridays and Saturdays; 2:30 pm Sundays. $22; $20 for seniors and military; $17 for students thirteen and above; $14 for children twelve and younger. 30byninety.com. 1

For more events, visit countryroadsmag.com/eventsand-festivals.

VISIT NEW ROADS - COME FOR THE

A Loop Around the Lake

Historic New Roads lies alongside one of Louisiana’s best-loved oxbow lakes. To find out why, hit the road and keep the lake on your right.

Anyone familiar with New Roads knows that, alongside the picturesque architecture, colorful bars and restaurants, and distinctive boutiques, a main attraction is its location on the banks of False River—the looping oxbow lake that was the Mississippi’s main channel before the river changed course in the early 1700s, cutting off an 11-mile-long “meander” that gave both False River (La Fausse Riviere,) and Pointe Coupee (Cut-off Point) their names. And while the section by downtown might be the best-known, the whole lakeshore is dotted with enough personality-filled attractions to make a road trip around False River an ideal spring outing. So, set a course for historic New Roads, and let’s get started.

Begin your loop in downtown New Roads at Morrison Parkway, a lakeside staging area busy with boaters putting in at the public boat launch. If it’s lunchtime you’re in luck, because iconic New Roads eateries Ma Mama’s Kitchen (124 West Main Street) and Morel’s Restaurant (210 Morrison Parkway) are within walking distance. Both offer Louisiana Creole-inspired, Gulf seafood-forward menus that have kept their dining rooms buzzing for generations. Or, start your outing by visiting New Roads’ charming boutiques. The contemporary fashions, accessories and upscale home goods at Estella Boutique (1111 Hospital Road); and the hunting supplies, bespoke kitchenware, and seasonal garden center at Parish Home & Farm (2442 Morganza Highway) explain why these hometown merchants are thriving in an era of corporate giants and online everything.

When you’re ready to hit the road, turn east onto LA 413, passing pretty Acadian cottages and notable boutique The Pointe Mercantile (228 East Main Street), before making a right to stay on LA 413 towards Ventress. One more right, and you’re on the “Island Side”—another old name from before the river levees were built, when spring floods would turn the land inside the False River bend into an island. Hungry again? Swing in to Jim’s Place (7913 Park St, Ven-

tress), a popular waterside bar & grill that also offers campsites, RV hookups, and a boat launch. The burgers here are serious business, as is the bird’s eye view from the eastern end of the lake.

Back onto LA 413 and you’re headed west. Drive slow to take in the view of New Roads across the water, and whimsical camp names like Drake on the Lake, The Gritz Carlton, Pier Pressure, and Reel Lazy, and dream about what you’ll name your own camp one day. Twelve miles after leaving Morrison Parkway, start looking for Bueche’s Bar & Grill (6901 LA 413, Jarreau), a perennial lakeside bar and honky-tonk where the beer’s been cold, the pool tables busy, and the burgers brilliant, since 1942.

At 15.2 miles, turn right again onto 413, and look out for Bergeron’s-On-Bayou Campground (4876 Zach Rd, Jarreau). Word has it that the bayou holds good bass in spring, while Bergeron’s is a great country general store anytime, offering fresh produce, wines and liquor, snacks and drinks, and a comfortable little bar & grill in the back.

At the next corner a quick detour is in order. So, at 15.7 miles, take a left on to the apparently ubiquitous LA 413 and go about half a mile. When you spot what looks like a mountain but is actually a giant pile of sug-

arcane bagasse, you’re at Alma Sugarcane Mill. Inside the gates is the Alma General Store (4612 Alma Rd, Lakeland), in operation since 1859. A general store in the original sense, the Alma Store feeds hungry mill workers and visitors, and can also help you with a fishing pole, a bottle of locally distilled Oxbow Rum, or a delicious plate lunch. Come on a Friday for fried fish, or Monday for red beans and rice—both farm traditions for as long as anyone can remember. Don’t leave without a $4 bag of Alma raw sugar.

Leaving Alma, turn left to head back east, marveling at the huge live oaks that dot this historic route. Around the 20-mile mark, the SandBar (6716 False River Dr, Oscar) is a Caribbean-style sports bar and grill whose ample indoor/outdoor seating areas, boat launches and beach volleyball court make it a popular waterside hangout. At 23.2 miles, the timelessly beautiful façade of Parlange Plantation alerts you to be on the lookout for the Pointe Coupée Museum (8348 False River Rd, New Roads), in a circa-1760 Acadian cottage perched on a lakeside bluff with lovely views up and down False River. Stop here to learn about the lake’s role in the Atchafalaya Water Heritage Trail, and reserve 30 minutes for a fascinating introduction to the history of Pointe Coupée from docent Harry Portier.

At 26.5 miles, after you pass by (or stop at) century-old Bergeron Pecans, you’re on the home stretch. If you’ve worked up a thirst, you could have your designated driver pull into the Daiquiri Diner, because the frozen drinks at this lakeside landmark are generous, well-balanced, and flavorsome. At the 29-mile mark, you’ll be back where you began—in downtown New Roads, within easy walking distance of a cultural institution worth a visit. The Julian Poydras Museum and Arts Center (500 West Main Street) occupies the former home of the Poydras High School, which was restored by the Pointe Coupée Historical Society to serve as a community cultural center. Today it hosts events, films, a live concert series, and rotating art and historical exhibits like the annual Treasures of Pointe Coupée art exhibition, returning this May 30—June 8. The Center is also home to the Arts Council of Pointe Coupée and the Pointe Coupée Historical Society, which keep the display spaces filled with interesting exhibitions. If you go, don’t miss climbing to the third floor to take an exhibition featuring scores of vintage outboard motors meticulously restored by local, Don LeJeune.

There’s more to explore! Visit newroads. net/

DOWN THE EL CAMINO

ROADS WEST, EAST, NORTH

Take Me to The Oldest Town in Texas

STROLLING THROUGH THE MANY HISTORIES OF NACOGDOCHES

Story by Kristy Christiansen • Photos by Paul Christiansen

Awash in the early morning light, the brick streets of downtown Nacogdoches glowed a brilliant red as we walked the historic district before the town awakened. My family and I strolled down the peacefully quiet Main Street that many years ago served as a footpath for travelers on the El Camino Real de los Tejas. The 2,500-mile-long trading route connected Mexico City to Natchitoches, Louisiana.

Legend has it, Nacogdoches in Texas and Natchitoches in Louisiana were named after two Caddo Indian brothers, twin sons of a Caddo chief. When the brothers grew old enough to start their own tribes, their father sent them each three days away. Nacogdoches went west, and Natchitoches went east, and each settled their respective towns. The road between them became the eastern terminus of the El Camino Real de los Tejas. Evidence of the El Camino’s early travelers can be seen at the Lobanillo Swales east of Nacogdoches in Geneva, Texas, where parallel ruts up to eighteen feet deep were created by thousands of travelers bringing their wagons and animals along this path.

As the oldest town in Texas, Nacogdoches has a sto-

ried history, openly told through the plaques attached to nearly every building downtown. The Spanish started early missions here in the early 1700s, and in 1779, Don Antonio Gil Y’Barbo brought in a group of settlers and established a government in his stone house known as the Stone Fort. Over the years, the town saw countless battles fought for its land, and nine different flags flew over the region until Texas joined the United States in 1845.

We came here to both discover Nacogdoches’s history and explore its present-day appeal, spending a packed two days uncovering the town’s mysteries and delights. We arrived late Thursday evening at the Fredonia Hotel, a “luxury meets local” overnight within walking distance of the downtown historic district. It was Thanksgiving evening, and the packed Nine Flags Bar beside the lobby was serving specialty cocktails and decadent desserts to celebrate. The bar, as well as the hotel’s 1st City Café and Republic Steakhouse, caters to more than just the overnight travelers, with locals often gathering here to enjoy a meal or catch up with friends.

Friday morning, after our early forays along the redbrick Main Street, we set off to Lanana Creek Trail,

which begins at Liberty Hall on East Main and cuts across the eastern edge of town. The scenic creek traverses a secluded forested area to a marker denoting the “Eyes of Father Margil de Jesus,” a fabled spring said to have started flowing in 1718 when, during a severe drought, a Franciscan missionary had a vision to strike, with his staff, the overhanging rock shelf—from which water gushed forth.

The nearly six-mile trail follows the creek north toward Stephen F. Austin State University (SFA), a public college known for its five gardens expanding across 138 acres of greenspace. Part of the College of Forestry and Agriculture, the gardens offer brilliant displays of color throughout the year, from the spring azaleas to the fall-blooming camellias. We opted to drive to the university, stopping along the way to see the circa 1878 Zion Hill First Baptist Church, one of the oldest African American Baptist congregations in Texas, and historic Oak Grove Cemetery, the final resting place of four of the signers of the Texas Declaration of Independence. At SFA, we walked through the Ruby M. Mize Azalea Garden—the largest azalea garden in Texas—and caught some off-season color from the flowers before

Downtown Nacogdoches, featuring the town's iconic red-bricked Main Street.

traveling beneath the weeping bald cypress tunnel to “The Plantery,” the university’s student botanic garden. On the west side of campus, we visited a replica of Antonio Gil Y’Barbo’s Stone Fort, which houses a museum inside documenting East Texas history.

Nacogdoches has a long history of public education; the first nonsecretarian institution of higher learning in Texas was chartered here in 1845. The university occupied an adobe and frame building, known today as the Old Nacogdoches University Building, from 1852 to 1855. It still stands on Washington Square, about a mile south of SFA on the highest point between Lanana and Banita Creeks. Today a museum, the brick building features its original curved staircase and a bell cast at the Henry N. Hooper Company; Hooper himself was an apprentice of the famed midnight rider Paul Revere who took over Revere’s foundry and changed the name to his own.

Back on Main Street, we turned west to reach the picture-perfect Nacogdoches Railroad Depot. Built in 1911, the depot served as a hub for train passengers until 1954. Today, it hosts a railroad museum exhibit, and since we were there for the holidays, we got to see the Loblolly Model Train display, with miniature trains zooming around tiny versions of local buildings and landmarks. On our way out, we were handed bags of colorful popcorn, compliments of SuSu’s Popcorn and Candy Café. Of course, this led us down the street to SuSu’s storefront, where the kids spent the next half hour picking out their favorite specialty popcorns, old-school candies, and never-before-seen sodas.

We ended the evening with a picnic at Lake Nacogdoches West Side Park, gazing out at the glistening reservoir while the kids fished for the trophy-sized largemouth bass rumored to lurk in these waters. Unfortunately, they were unsuccessful in their endeavors, but we did walk off some of our sugar high by traipsing along the shoreline and following the frisbee golf trail through the trees.

The Saturday after Thanksgiving, all the downtown shops open their doors to celebrate “Small Business Saturday” with a friendly competition known as Wassail Fest. Shoppers are beckoned inside with promises of tasting the award-winning wassail—a hot mulled cider popularized in old England. The entire town shows up for this popular event, where sidewalks are bustling with visitors chatting to neighbors juggling shopping bags and multiple cups of wassail.

Top: Azaleas in the Ruby M. Mize Azalea Garden at Stephen F. Austin State University, the largest azalea garden in Texas. Bottom: The replica of Antonio Gil Y’Barbo’s eighteenth-century Stone Fort, which houses a museum inside documenting East Texas history, at Stephen F. Austin State University.

We began our journey at Dead Tree Dreams bookstore, a short jaunt from the Fredonia Hotel. Intrigued by its name, we entered the expansive used bookstore, shelves stocked with books covering every topic imaginable. Atticus, the resident cat, kept us company while we browsed and sipped on hot chocolate with all the fixings—the bookstore’s alternative to wassail.

From here, we crossed the railroad tracks and visited the community Farmers Market, eating our way through steaming meat pies and freshly made pretzels, and picking up jars of honey to bring home. Retracing our steps down Main Street, we admired the town’s hand-painted welcome sign, one of many along the Mural Tour. A separate Statue Trail leads past a litany of effigies of historical figures and prominent townspeople, such as “The Storytellers” right outside the Fredonia Hotel. This particular statue depicts four men, Frances Edward “Ab” Abernethy, Charles Raymond Bright, Bryan Holt Davis Jr., and Robert W. “Bob” Murphey, gathered around a table regaling each other with tales of the past.

At last, we reached the shops on Main Street and began our wassail tasting, jotting notes and picking out our top contenders from a list distributed at the Visitor Information Center. We popped in every shop, browsing both antiques and boutiques, and leaving with quite a few treasures. One of our favorites was the General Mercantile and Oldtime String Shop, the building dating back to around 1904. It was once the location of Stone’s Café where Bonnie Parker, of Bonnie & Clyde fame, worked prior to meeting up with Clyde Barrow. The shop is filled with wooden toys from the olden days and a variety of string instruments, which are sold, repaired, and played here during regular jam sessions.

Out of money and loaded down with souvenirs and gifts, we left the busy shopping area and walked to some of the nearby historic homes, including the 1830 dogtrot house called the Sterne-Hoya House Museum and Library and the circa-1835 Durst-Taylor Historic House and Gardens. Both were closed for the holiday weekend, but we could still drift around the grounds and admire the architecture of the early homes.

We topped off the day back at the Fredonia Hotel in the 1st City Café, feasting on burgers and overstuffed sandwiches. As we sat around the table reliving our favorite moments from our trip, it dawned on me that we were carrying on the tradition of The Storytellers, regaling each other with tales of this vibrant small town steeped in history and tradition. • visitnacogdoches.org.

Disclaimer: This trip was partially funded by Visit Nacogdoches, though the opinions of the writer are entirely her own and formed independently of this fact.

Top photo: Lake Nacogdoches West Side Park, where there is a great view of the reservoir and opportunities to catch largemouth bass and play frisbee golf. Bottom photo: The circa-1835 Durst-Taylor Historic House and Gardens.

FROM REEF TO REEF

Into the Deep

DIVING THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE SHIPWRECK TRAIL

Story by Colleen Rush

Whether you are new to diving or have more than 100 hours logged underwater, there’s something utterly spooky and thrilling about approaching a shipwreck. It’s not just the whimsical fantasy of discovering treasure, or the ominous aura of a ship’s demise. It actually takes a beat or two to resolve the cognitive dissonance of a hulking, man-made metal structure deep in the blue. As your eyes adjust, what at first appears so incredibly unnatural and out of place comes into focus, and the dark, shadowy silhouette of a ship morphs into a wildly spectacular habitat teeming with sea life—bright, hard corals, undulating soft corals, slow-moving Goliath grouper, sinister-looking barracuda, thick schools of baitfish. It's a recreational diver’s wonderland.

By some estimates, there are more than 5,000 shipwrecks off Florida’s 1,200 miles of coastline. Although Florida’s eastern coast gets the lion’s share of attention from divers, there are hidden-in-plain-sight wonders— like the USS Oriskany, a.k.a. the “Great Carrier Reef”—to be explored along the Florida Panhandle Shipwreck Trail. For divers planning an excursion, Panama City Beach (dubbed

the “Wreck Capital of the South”) is a great place to start the adventure.

“The biomass off Panama City Beach is unlike anywhere most people dive,” said Patrick Green, owner of Panama City Diving and a lifelong resident of Panama City. Temperate, subtropical seas around the shipwreck

trail and freshwater from estuaries along the Gulf Coast combine to create the perfect environment for algae and the sea life that feeds on those nutrients, Green said.

The story of the Panhandle Shipwreck Trail is one of innovation born from adversity. When the Deepwater

Horizon Oil Spill spewed an estimated 134 million gallons of oil into the Gulf in 2010, communities across the coast scrambled to save their tourism economies. Although Louisiana’s coast was more directly affected, a large portion of BP’s $20 billion settlement funded cleanup efforts and coastal restoration across the Gulf, including the Panhandle, and continues to this day. After the spill and cleanup, the Florida Department of State’s Bureau of Archaeological Research (BAR) spearheaded the effort to create a shipwreck diving trail similar to the Florida Keys Wreck Trek.

The trail launched in 2012 with twelve shipwreck sites, most of which were sunk intentionally as artificial reefs because conditions in the Gulf (limited light, freshwater input, strong currents) aren’t conducive to natural reef structures like Florida’s Atlantic coast. Today, the trail incorporates twenty wrecks off the panhandle from Pensacola to Port St. Joe. And, there’s an historic, retired ocean liner making the slow journey to the Gulf coast right now (see sidebar on page 41: "From Luxury Ocean Liner to Underwater Playground").

Along with spectacular underwater wildlife, each shipwreck on the trail offers a unique glimpse into maritime history. For Gulf South divers excited to conquer this frontier, the experience is an easy road trip just a few hours from home. For more information about each wreck, visit floridapanhandledivetrail.com.

Photos by Kate Overly / Panama City Diving

Illustration by Kourtney Zimmerman. Find the map key on the opposite page.

Dive and Discover

Divers can pick up a Florida Panhandle Shipwreck Trail Passport at participating dive shops and charter boats and collect stamps and signatures for diving each shipwreck on the trail. Here are the main destinations along the way:

Pensacola

1. Three Coal Barges Depth: 50’ Length: 140’

2. San Pablo Depth: 80’ Length: 315’

3. Pete Tide II Depth: 100’ Length: 166’

4. YDT-14 Depth: 90’ Length: 132.5’

5. USS Oriskany Depth: 80’ to 212’ Length: 911’

Destin

6. Miss Louise Depth: 60’ Length: 95’

7. Destin Liberty Ship/ Thomas Hayward Reef Depth: 90’ Length: 360’

8. M/V Janet Depth: 93’ Length: 85’

9. Tugboat “Zuess” Depth: 107’ Length: Unknown

10. Mohawk Chief Depth: 125’ Length: 93’

11. Belize Queen/ Bob Reay Reef Depth: 112’ Length: 85’

12. Chepanoc Depth: 107’ Length: 129’

Panama City Beach

13. Black Bart Depth: 85’

An Insider's Guide to the Best Dive Sites

Panama City Diving operator Patrick Green offers an insider’s take on must-see wrecks and dive sites off Panama City Beach—even some that are not part of the official "Dive Trail".

USS Accokeek

“This is the one we hit most. Every reef fish you can imagine lives here, and resident Goliath grouper are a major draw. It has good swim-throughs and checks all the boxes for what makes a wreck interesting.”

USS Chippewa

“Similar to the Accokeek, but with more light penetration, so you can see your way in and out. It has all the large fish on it.”

Twin Tugs (FAMI Tugs)

“This is a cool site because it’s two wrecks, deliberately set next to each other with chain from bow to bow to navigate. Hurricane Ivan picked up one of the tugs and put it on top of the other, so it’s taller—a three-story structure you can explore.”

Stage 1

“This is an old naval diving stage similar to an oil rig structure. The site is so big— about 150-feet by 150-feet, with all of these ‘legs’ from seventy feet down to 105 feet. An artificial reef pipe structure in the middle is filled with all types of wildlife. It’s been there so long, it’s covered in gorgonians [a type of soft coral], sponges; and red, white, and yellow sea fans.”

Bridge

Spans (Dupont and Hathaway)

“Overall, [these are] my favorite dive sites; they’re easy to navigate and hold a tremendous amount of wildlife—more than anywhere else around here. The steel beams that form the spans have tiny grids inside (like a jungle gym), so there’s a lot of microstructures that form the substrates where coral can grow. You have the perfect habitat across a very tall, vertical reef, and the top gets a lot of sunlight.”

Do I need special certification to dive a shipwreck?

It depends on how deep the wreck is. An entry-level Open Water certification with PADI, SSS, or NAUI can be obtained over a three- or four-day course and allows divers to explore down to sixty feet. But many of the wrecks along the Panhandle lie at lower depths. Nitrox certification may be required, and you will need an additional Advanced Open Water (PADI), Deep Diving Specialty, or Advanced-Adventure Diver (SDI), or Deep Diver (NAUI) certification to dive wrecks up to 130 feet. Look for dive operators that offer deep-diver “add-on” courses to wreck charters; after completing an e-learning course, divers are trained and tested on-site at deep wrecks to complete the certification.

Visibility Report

Although you can dive year-round along the Florida Gulf coast, mid-May to mid-June is peak season for visibility, which ranges from forty to sixty feet at offshore sites or thirty to forty feet at shallower depths. “It’s the end of the spring drought, so there’s minimal freshwater input,” said Green. “Sediment in the water tends to go away when we get more southerly winds that push the Gulf Stream closer and bring deeper, cleaner, and clearer warm water closer to land.”

From Luxury Ocean Liner to Underwater Playground

When the SS United States, the longest and largest ocean liner ever built in America, is scuttled into the waters off Destin-Fort Walton Beach, the flagship vessel will become the world’s largest artificial reef. (The USS Oriskany, located twenty-two miles south of Pensacola, currently holds the title of world’s largest artificial reef.) The iconic ship, at 990 feet long, 101.5 feet wide and 175 feet from keel to funnel, is about 100 feet longer than the Titanic and the height equivalent of a twelve-story building. The ship has been docked at Pier 82 on Philadelphia’s Delaware River since 1996 but was purchased by Okaloosa County in October 2024 and began its long, slow journey south in February 2025. The ship is currently en route to its final resting place and is expected to be scuttled in late 2025 or early 2026. Track the SS United States on its voyage to the Panhandle at share.garmin.com/ssunitedstates.

Surface Interval

After a long day of wreck diving, re-fuel at some of Panama City Beach’s most popular restaurants.

Breakfast

Andy’s Flour Power

A local diner offering the full monty breakfast/brunch favorites—rolled, crepe-thin omelets, Benedicts, shrimp and grits, hearty French toast and more. (Don’t miss the biscuits or a chance to chat with the gregarious chef/owner, John Certo.)

Thomas Donut & Snack Shop

Enjoy a bonkers variety of daily doughnuts and breakfast sandwiches at an adorable beach-front institution that’s been around since 1971.

Lunch

Schooner’s

Sit at the bar, soak up the truly local scene, and dig into a beachy, seafood-focused menu of fried fish platters and sandwiches, smoked tuna dip, hearty salads, and more.

Finn’s Island Style Grub

Grab a picnic table and a local craft beer and enjoy a laidback, al fresco lunch of street tacos, burritos, and ceviche at this more-than-a-food truck outdoor eatery.

Dinner

Mosey’s Downtown

For a super-casual, chat-with-the-neighbors vibe, head to this very local, downtown pizza joint/dive bar with an outstanding live music lineup.

Captain Anderson’s

For a touch of finer dining, Captain Anderson’s offers the right scene and solid menu of seafood classics. Instead of fried, think grilled or broiled here (they know what they’re doing), particularly any whole fish on the specials. Fun fact: The enormous ship propeller stationed outside is from the Empire Mica (#20 on the shipwreck trail). • visitpanamacitybeach.com.

Disclaimer: This trip was partially funded by Visit Panama City Beach, though the a opinions of the writer are entirely her own and formed independently of this fact.

SEAFOOD & SUNSETS

RIDING THE RAILS

“I’ll Stay in Memphis”

THE BIRTHPLACE OF ROCK 'N' ROLL IS JUST A SHORT TRAIN-RIDE AWAY

Story by Kristy Christiansen

On the City of New Orleans train to Memphis, the patchwork blue and green landscape rolled past as hthe wheels picked up speed. My fellow passengers were largely veteran travelers, smartly equipped with hthick blankets and pillows, and expertly maneuvering the La-Z-Boy-esque chairs into full horizontal position. As a newbie, I was too excited to sleep, instead gazing out the window until it was draped in thick black ink. Only then did I attempt to walk to the food car, hanging on for dear life every time I stepped outside to cross between cars.

I was headed to Memphis to learn about the city’s revitalization. Though other travel journalists were flying, I jumped at the chance to travel by train—my vision for the adventure centered somewhere between the Hogwarts Express and the chase in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. There were no chocolate frogs on this train, I’m afraid, but the travel experience was surprisingly more comfortable than a plane or a long drive. I luxuriated in the large, spacious seats with extra leg room and was able to bring onboard any food or liquid I wanted. The sightseer lounge offered panoramic views, and for those traveling overnight, there were even private sleeping rooms.

We rolled to a stop nearly an hour ahead of schedule. Awakened from their slumber, my fellow passengers carried their luggage outside into the evening chill and left in search of taxis and ride shares. I caught sight of the brightly lit Central Station Hotel and made my way straight toward the brick and limestone building beckoning me into its warm interior, where the evening social scene was already in full swing.

I pushed through the front doors and sauntered up to the check-in counter. Above the sunken lobby bar, Eight & Sand, a neon sign pointed the way to yellow cabs and transfer buses, a nod to the building’s history as a bustling railroad station dating back to 1914. When train travel declined following World War II, the building lost its luster until a meticulous preservation effort transformed the site into a boutique hotel in 2019.

On my way to the elevator, I passed a hand-beaded portrait of soul musician Isaac Hayes created by Big Chief Demond Melancon of the Young Seminole Hunters, a Black Masking Indian group in New Orleans.

Upstairs in my room, I threw open the shades to take in the view of South Main Street carving its colorful path through town. In the distance, a ship made its way along the Mississippi River, a tableau that reminded me of home. My name flashed across the TV screen, welcoming me to iconic scenes of Memphis while curated music flowed from the speakers. I melted into the bed and fell blissfully asleep, dreaming of the Memphis skyline.

fast at By the Brewery. A giant green board dominated the wall behind the counter, announcing a broad array of menu items from a smoked gouda-topped grits cake biscuit to a three-cheese-and-brisket grilled sandwich. I ended up devouring a breakfast large enough for two while chatting and admiring the adorable terrariums lining the restaurant’s windowsills.

From here, we embarked on our epic tour of Graceland—which is, of course, the storied home of rock ‘n’ roll legend Elvis Presley, but has expanded today into an entire entertainment complex, complete with tours of "The King’s" airplanes, a car museum, an Elvis career museum, two restaurants, shopping, a guest house, and a theatre. Die-hard fans can even book a “Presley for a Day” experience, including a golf cart ride around the grounds and a photo-op with the resident horses. Although Elvis died in 1977, more than 600,000 visitors still make the pilgrimage to his home every year.

The shuttle dropped us at the front steps of Graceland Mansion, an actually rather modest family home overlooking immaculate grounds. Inside, Elvis’s signature style is on full display, from the blue and yellow peacock windows in his living room to the multicolored, fabric-lined pool room. Every space delivers a new assault to the senses: mirrors line a stairwell, red shag carpet coats the floor, walls, and even a hallway ceiling. The famed Jungle Room is adorned in dark colors reminiscent of a men’s cigar parlor. The effect is overwhelming, a stark contrast to the quiet outdoor

Left: The National Civil Rights Museum in the historic Lorraine Motel where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was fatally shot on April 4, 1968. Photo by Phillip Van Zandt. Right: Graceland. Photo by David Meany.

Photos courtesy of Memphis Travel

Left: The Record Wall at The Stax Museum of American Soul Music. Photo by Dan Ball. Right: Sun Studio, the birthplace of rock 'n' roll. Photo by Alex Shanksy.

After touring Graceland, the natural next step is to eat at the Beauty Shop, Priscilla Presley’s former curl-anddye spot. The fifties-inspired restaurant features original terrazzo floors, glass-brick-walled booths, and seats beneath hooded Belvedere hair dryers. It’s a place that lives up to its motto of “Look Good. Eat Good,” serving up a gourmet menu of truffle fries, short rib burgers, watermelon & wings, and signature cocktails in the hip Cooper-Young District of midtown.

Next up was Sun Studio, the legendary "birthplace" of rock’n’roll where Elvis recorded his first songs in 1953. Our engaging tour guide sported mismatched socks and a contagious enthusiasm, regaling us with stories of B.B. King, Ike Turner, and the many other musicians who frequented the studio. This is where disc jockey Sam Phillips catapulted musicians to fame and where the Million Dollar Quartet—Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, and Jerry Lee Lewis—gathered for a famous impromptu jam session caught on camera. We took our group photo behind the same microphone used by Elvis to record his tunes.

The evening kicked off with dinner at Amelia Gene’s, globally inspired fine dining in the lovingly restored William C. Ellis and Sons Ironworks and Machine Shop. Dating back to 1879, the building still retains its original brickwork and steel beams. An attention-grabbing amber chandelier pays homage to the welding flames of days past, glowing a brilliant orange above the patrons enjoying artistic takes on sea bass, filet mignon, and trumpet mushroom risotto.

No Memphis evening is complete without a visit to Beale Street, the city’s neon-lit, live music corridor. We squeezed into the last table on the balcony at B.B. King’s Blues Club and watched the house band pour their soul into a rollicking set for a packed dance floor.

Day Two: Civil Rights & Soul

In this easily walkable city, we greeted the next morning with a brief jaunt from our hotel to Hustle & Dough, an all-day bakery and cocktail bar. They offered a range of hand pies, scones, and a full café menu complimented by gourmet coffee from New Orleans’s own Mammoth Coffee Company.

From the bakery, it was a short, five-minute stroll to the National Civil Rights Museum, located in the historic Lorraine Motel where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.

was fatally shot on April 4, 1968. The sobering museum provides an immersive journey through the American Civil Rights movement, with an unparallelled compilation of stories, photographs, and exhibits documenting this important struggle in our country’s history.

King was in Memphis to participate in the Sanitation Workers’ Strike of 1968, known for its iconic “I AM A MAN” signs that were produced daily in historic Clayborn Temple’s basement. Today, the former church, which fell into disuse and ruin, is undergoing a

An exhibition of Elvis's iconic jumpsuits displayed at Graceland. Photo by Alex Shansky.

$14 million restoration to return it to the way it looked on April 4, 1968. Once the project is complete, the building will serve as a performance space, gallery, and museum documenting the church’s history.

We regrouped for ribs, hot wings, and pulled pork at Central BBQ, right next door to the Civil Rights Museum. The line was out the door when we arrived at this popular hot-spot, and after devouring tabletop-sized portions full of slow-smoked meats and sauces, we nearly fought over the last bites of the banana pudding and peanut butter pie.

At the Stax Museum of American Soul Music, we walked in the footsteps of Memphis soul music greats, such as Otis Redding, Booker T. & the MGs, and Isaac Hayes. When siblings Jim Stewart and Estelle Axton opened their recording studio in a former movie theater in 1959, they launched the widely popular sounds of American soul music. We toured the museum’s exhibits, including Isaac Hayes’s gold-plated, peacock blue 1972 Cadillac, while listening to Stax hits including Redding's “(Sittin' On) The Dock of the Bay” and “Do the Funky Chicken” by Rufus Thomas.

Before dinner, I took advantage of a gap in our schedule to soak up some sun at Tom Lee Park on the Mississippi River. It was a quick walk from our hotel down some side streets and a steep set of stairs to the packed riverfront park. Once there, I was greeted with gorgeous views of the river and the distant, pyramid-shaped Bass Pro Shops.

For our last night in Memphis, we headed to Crosstown Concourse for drinks at Crosstown Art Bar. The former Sears distribution center was transformed into a “vertical urban village,” with a hotel, apartments, restaurants, a high school, clinic, and contemporary arts space all under one roof. The eclectic Art Bar served up seasonal cocktails in comfy rooms displaying portraits of animals and soothing mood lighting. It was the perfect pre-dinner transition into our final meal at Swamp Bar, a Creole restaurant with a global twist offering a menu of curry fried oysters, Creole rangoon, and crawfish pad thai. The bar sits in tandem to neighboring Second Line, a New Orleans comfort food favorite with classics like dressed po-boys and shrimp and grits.

Early Monday morning, the conductor issued his boarding call, and I filed back onto the Amtrak train headed to New Orleans. It had been a whirlwind weekend, and this time, I embraced my own veteran status and spent the hours of quiet travel resting before pulling into the station back home. • memphistravel.com.

Disclaimer: This trip was partially funded by Memphis Travel, though the opinions of the writer are entirely her own and formed independently of this fact.

Cajun Spirit, Creole Soul

Top: Tom Lee Park on the Mississippi River in Memphis. Bottom: Inside the National Civil War Museum. Photos by Julian Harper.

Explore Ridgeland, where small-town Southern charm and outdoor adventure go hand in hand. Stroll through our scenic trails, discover unique roadside attractions, or wander our retail trail. Need a hand finding the perfect place to stay & play? We can help at exploreRidgeland.com.

Ridgeland Wildflower Field & Art Park

hidden gem

FOLLOW YOUR STOMACH

Hungry & in Shreveport

A FOOD TOUR OF THE BUSTLING NORTH LOUISIANA HUB

Story by Liz Williams

Iusually travel with a packed schedule, not wanting to waste a minute of time exploring a new place. But hon my recent road trip to Shreveport, I decided to leave spaces in my agenda. This wasn’t intended as down time, but as opportunities to just explore the North Louisiana city—particularly when it comes to food.

I arrived with the understanding that

Shreveport is a truly American city, which can sometimes bode less-thanwell when it comes to culinary intrigue. Shreveport wasn’t founded until 1836— after the Louisiana Purchase and after Louisiana had already become a state. Its namesake, Captain Henry Miller Shreve, a member of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, cleared a blockage from the Red River, making it navigable. Today, many

of the nineteenth century storefronts remain, alongside the modern interstates. But even without the confluence of cultures that the eighteenth century brought to South Louisiana, Shreveport has many long-standing restaurants that suggest a multi-generational culinary legacy. These were the restaurants I was most interested in exploring, as well as those on the path to longevity.

Chianti

I arrived in the very late afternoon, and I had to start somewhere. So, Chianti was my first stop on my gustatory journey. This Sicilian restaurant tugged at my heartstrings with its wonderful smells. I found a menu of family recipes that have been served in Shreveport since 1987, including many dishes of veal scaloppini, served in a traditional style. I ordered the Scaloppini Al Limone, and its texture and flavor transported me straight back to my mother’s table, where I grew up eating the delicacy freshly butchered from my great uncles’ shop.

The menu names its dishes in Italian and features lamb chops, shrimp, and salmon, in addition to veal. It is a step back into the old world. The creative salads, desserts, and environment make for a steeped-in-Sicily dining experience.

Rhino Coffee

The next morning, I awoke ready for coffee. Rhino Coffee serves its brew made from beans roasted sustainably in Shreveport, with carbon emissions substantially lowered as compared to traditional roasters. The shop also offers cold brew, pour over, and espresso in a friendly atmosphere with knowledgeable baristas, as well as a hearty menu of pastries and lunchtime food.

Cush’s Grocery & Market

Part grocery, part wine store, and part restaurant, this family-operated market has been around for over thirty years. The interiors are decorated with paintings by multiple Emmy- and Oscar-winning author and illustrator William Joyce, and books, groceries, and dry goods (like imported Italian pastas) line the walls. I judge a place like Cush’s by its tomato sauce; for me, it should be balanced, and not too sweet. Their tomato sauce with Italian sausage passed the test, and the meaty chicken salad, mounded into the two halves of a perfect avocado, makes a lovely shareable lunch. The brownie with ice cream, simple as it is, made me crazy with delight.

If I ate there regularly, which I am sure that I would if I lived in Shreveport, I would be taking home their beautiful steaks and cheeses and prepared foods every time I dropped in.

Chop Shop

With a little time before dinner, I headed over to check out Chop Shop, a whole animal butcher. In addition to the meat

Greens and cornbread from Chef Hardette Harris's Us Up North dinner. Photo courtesy of Visit Shreveport-Bossier.

counter, the shop offers a weekly “Supper Club”—a chef-prepared take-and-bake meal featuring a rotating menu of their sustainably raised meat with vegetables sourced from local farms.

Chop Shop also supports neighboring farms by partnering with them to sell local products like soups, honey, vegetables, pickles, dips, and other products.

Heron

This jam-packed restaurant has a clean, sophisticated vibe, with a modern pan-Louisiana menu, nodding to New Orleans, the Gulf, as well as local farms and traditions. Chef Blake Jackson, who opened Heron in November 2024, calls it “Nouveau Louisiana Cuisine.” My eyes were drawn to the Seafood Tower, offered in “heron” and “egret” sizes, but I especially enjoyed the combination of beef bourguignon with grits.

The cocktail program at Heron is worth exploring in its own right. There are many playful, but knowledgeable, twists on traditional cocktails—such as the Get Out My Bees Knees with its touch of ginger, and my favorite, the Lost Paper Plane, made with aged run, Amaro, Montenegro, Aperol, and lemon juice. I recommend making reservations ahead of time.

Us Up North

If you can put together a group, any trip to Shreveport should include a meal at Chef Hardette Harris’s Us Up North Kitchen, where the James Beard nominated Harris is preserving traditional North Louisiana food. In her embrace of local traditions and foodways, she has even written a traditional North Louisiana menu that reflects the culture and agriculture of this region, which was adopted as the Official Meal of North Louisiana by the Louisiana State Legislature.

In Louisiana’s Legend Country follow the trail of outlaws, bandits, heroes, and soldiers who once traversed these

Visit Louisiana’s Legend Country and make our storied

Regional

Frank’s Pizza Napoletana

The private experience, which must be booked ahead, treats guests to specially-prepared local delicacies while educating about the native foods of North Louisiana based on its geography and local fauna and flora. I had fried catfish and greens, which I enjoyed while Chef Harris talked about how and why the food of North Louisiana was different from the food of South Louisiana. It was fascinating, reminding me that culinary Louisiana always offers something new to learn.

Jacquelyn’s Café

Another traditional food experience in Shreveport, Jacquelyn’s Café has been around since 1983. It is the kind of place that gives old school lunch spots their good name and loyal following, with a storytelling staff that have been there for decades. There are club sandwiches and pie by the slice and a combo plate that contains a cup of red beans and rice, jambalaya, and shrimp etouffee. Their spaghetti and meatballs is mountainous.

Koi Asian Fusion

A newer institution, which opened its doors in January of this year, is the beautiful Koi Asian Fusion. Opened by the Chu family, who have operated the Imperial Cathay restaurant in Shreveport for many decades, this new venture reflects the past, present, and future of their family’s culinary legacy.

There is an interesting bar program, featuring cocktails made with Asian liqueurs and flavors. The nonalcoholic cocktails are also carefully crafted, not too sweet and very refreshing.

The menu offers an exciting and meticulously prepared variety of dishes, with flavors drawn from across the Asian continent. Some highlights were the scallion pancakes with chicken meatballs and the lobster buri-bop with house-made kimchi. That’s not to mention the extensive sushi menu. Reservations are recommended, but if you are spontaneous, you may be able to find a seat at the bar for full menu service.

You cannot leave Shreveport without a stop at Frank’s. The dishes are built from local ingredients prepared in the Italian tradition, and the mozzarella, sausage, and pancetta are made in-house. They boast of the food being so fresh that they don’t have a freezer—except for the small one that holds their gelati and sorbetti.

The Arancini with crawfish tails made me totally forget about crawfish beignets. There are also small kidsized cheese and pepperoni pizzas. The staff is friendly and there’s a sense of fun in the room that is infectious.

Although it is known for its pizza, another Frank’s specialty worth considering is the orecchiette Bolognese.

After my whirlwind eating spree in Shreveport, I return home with a new understanding of Louisiana’s great Northern city, a place of family legacies and innovative takes on classics, where the citizenry is devoted to their restaurants—the old and the new. And I’ve only just scratched the surface. • visitshreveportbossier.org.

The shrimp salad and pie at Jacquelyn's Café in Shreveport. Courtesy of

Pan seared miso black cod with seasonal vegetables and rice at Koi Asian Fusion in Shreveport. Photo courtesy of Visit Shreveport-Bossier.

Soupçon

A DASH OF DINING NEWS

By CR Editorial Staff

New Orleans is a pizza city, too

A lot happened in New Orleans during Super Bowl weekend (“Say, Drake”), but under the chaos of it all, Dave Portnoy was doing what Dave Portnoy does best: eating pizza. And in New Orleans, where food is its own cultural touchstone, the under-recognized Italian staple got its day in the sun. The founder of Barstool Sports has been reviewing pizza on his website “onebite.app” for over a decade— rating a slice on a scale of 1–10 by its taste, weight, “undercarriage” floppiness, and appearance; all based on one bite. During his time in New Orleans and Metairie, he gave nine pizza spots coveted 7+ rankings, including the just-recently-opened Forbidden Pizza, which he deemed “spectacular” and gave an 8.3 ranking. Lon Marchand of Il Supremo, which received an 8.2 ranking, said that since Portnoy's visit they have sold out every night. "Two weeks after the review, [co-owner Nick Hufft] drove to Florida to buy three new ovens and haul them back to keep up with the demand," he said. "I feel for our OG customers who are having to deal with us not being their little neighborhood pizza spot anymore!" Watch Portnoy's reviews at youtube.com/@onebitepizzareviews

Pop on in

At the end of February, downtown Lafayette welcomed a new face to its collective of locally-owned foodie destinations: Doc’s Pop-In. Opened by Collin Cormier, owner of other Lafayette favorites like Central Pizza, Pop’s Poboys, The Flats, and Viva La Waffle, Doc’s is a specialty grocery offering a combination of local and imported food goods—from Italian tomato sauces and Pan’s Mushroom Jerky to local eggs and baguettes from Straw Cove Baking Company down the street. Walk-ins can also grab hotbox-style local foods to go, prepared next door at Pop’s Poboys— incluidng favorites like meat pies, boudin balls, and breakfast tacos. popspoboys.com/ docs-popin

The Gulf Coast is going Italian The Nicaud brothers are at it again— bringing yet another exciting, innovative take on cuisine to the Mississippi Gulf Coast. This time, the concept’s summoning up Italy.

Last month, Field’s Italian opened up on Government Street in Ocean Springs, in the former Rooftop Mexican restaurant downtown. In the colorfully outfitted space, guests can enjoy Chef Lauren Joffrion’s coastal take on traditional Italian dishes. Think: spicy rigatoni alla vodka with meatballs, lobster ravioli, peppered pig flatbread. And, as is Joffrion’s signature: it’s all made from scratch. Later this spring, a second location is planned for Pass Christian, just off the beach. instagram.com/fieldsoceansprings

Launching Nina Compton’s new cookbook

On April 1, Compère Lapin’s James Beard Award-winning Chef Nina Compton invites the public to the restaurant to celebrate the launch of her new cookbook, Kwéyol/Creole: Recipes Stories and Tings from a St. Lucian’s Chef Journey. Co-written with the help of author Osayi Endolyn, the book tells the story of Compton’s culinary journey from St. Lucia, to Jamaica, to Miami, and then finally to New Orleans. The evening will feature an exclusive four-course dinner prepared with recipes from the book, as well as a signing and Q&A. 5:30 pm–9 pm. $75 for the dinner; $37.50 for the book. Reserve at comperelapin.com

Spring Explore Alex River Fête May 1-3

5.1 - 5.3 / Alex River Fête

Join us for this 3-day FREE festival in downtown Alexandria, kicked-off with Thursday’s Dinner on the Bricks where you can sample food from local restaurants. Experience live music, Que-in on the Red, IndieFête, food trucks, shopping vendors, kid’s activities, Louisiana Dragon Boat Races, classic cars and more! alexriverfete.com

EXPLORE all of the events in Alexandria/Pineville!

4.3 / 4.10 / 4.17 / Downtown Rocks

Join us in downtown Alexandria for FREE concerts with Chubby Carrier, Kelli Roberts Band, and Step Rideau. cityofalexandriala.com

4.5 / Spring Herb Day at Kent Plantation House

Herbs and bedding plants will be for sale with gardening experts on hand, along with food, craft and art vendors. kenthouse.org

4.20 / Pops on the River

The Symphony will perform music from Elton John and Billy Joel in this FREE concert at the Alexandria Riverfront Amphitheater. rapidessymphony.org

4.26 / Earth Day at the Alexandria Zoo

Discover the amazing world of wildlife and learn how you can be a superhero for the planet. thealexandriazoo.com WHAT EVENTS ARE GOING ON?

ME

Indian Creek Reservoir

Photo by Aubrey Bolen

OUR SUSTAINABLE GARDEN

The Art of Handpruning

TIME TO DITCH THE POWER TOOLS

Story and photo by Jess Cole

Whhen it comes to gardening, I’ve never been one for power tools. Mostly, for me, it’s a hassle to work with them. They are costly and break. Too frequently, I’ve found myself covered in gasoline, having batteries die on me just as I’m about to finish a task, or tripping over the power cord tangled at my feet. Plus, even the most polite of them are still loud, masking the bird and windsong that I am out in the garden for in the first place.

It was Suzanne Turner, prominent landscape architect, who helped me fall in love with pruning by hand.

I first started working with Turner in her Beauregard Town Gardens after she came across me and my friend Britt pouring sweat in the full sun, tediously weeding a client’s dreaded “nutgrass,”

which was tightly woven into mondo grass. Turner and her firm specialize in historical and cultural landscapes. She opened my world to so many new ideas and taught me endless techniques I will hold dear for the remainder of my ever-unfolding gardening career. She has a passion and deep knowledge for the old world and what some might see as archaic techniques—one being pruning shrubs by hand.

I will never forget the day she instructed that Britt and I prune three bulbous boxwoods outside of her office, with hand pruners. She wanted us to prune a specific few inches, but it had to look natural, as though untouched. We’d whittle away, and she’d come out of the office door every now and again to say it was not pruned enough, or it did not look “natural” enough. Finally we

achieved the look and size she wanted, but my hands, blistered and bloody, took days to recover. But it was with those boxwoods that a lifelong, full-blown love affair began.

What I learned from Turner is that there is artistry in the work. No pair of battery-powdered shears can ever achieve the delicate and precise cuts that come from a sharp pair of clippers and a discerning mind. She encouraged me to really understand the species I encounter.

To me, there is little difference in pruning a shrub than in my former studies of throwing clay vessels or drawing the human figure. The resounding theme is curves and angles. The most subtle curve can define or fragment a thrown pot, a figure drawing, an azalea, or a gardenia. You have so much power with the tiniest movement of the hand.

You prompt, and then you take a step back. You can get lost when too close up. Sometimes, a fellow gardener and I will prune a shrub together—one of us deep in the branches, the other at the street or ten feet away, watching the overall picture from a distance, directing the pruner.

If I haven’t convinced you already, below, I make my hard case for the switch to handpruning, and the reasons it is superior to using power tools.

All you’ll need are: hand clippers, loppers, a good, tiny handsaw (Silky saws are the best!), and a blade sharpener. All of this should set you back $100, max, and last you for years.

As I write this essay, our exotic azaleas are blooming; I pray you take heed once the blooms fade and the time has come to prune these beauties.

4 Reasons to Toss the Power Tools and Hand-Prune

It causes less damage: When using shears, you are haphazardly cutting without intention or control, which can lead to split branches, sliced leaves, and erroneous cuts. Not only is it harmful to the plant, it’s completely unnatural, and rather sore on the eye. Alternatively, when hand pruning, you are in the presence of the plant longer, and through observation can note the happenings unraveling around you. You see “dead wood” that you wouldn’t normally notice, which you can then cut out. You may find pests you would otherwise overlook. You can actually see what is happening.

It fosters a relationship with the plant: Gardening is a way to connect to one's home and the natural world. When using power tools, you are rushing a semi-natural process and allowing the distraction of sound pollution. Anyone can take shears/hedgers to a plant, but when hand pruning, it’s important to observe and have an understanding of your plant’s growth patterns. You have to know its natural form. You can, of course, manipulate that form as you wish, but if you want to prune with beauty and plant-health in mind, you have to know your plant.

When making precise cuts with integrity, you not only learn from your plants, but can get creative. You can decide where you want more growth, and make

that relevant cut. I love pruning asiatic azaleas very hard and low to the earth. I like to see the most subtle diagonal from ground to rounded center top, playing around with them as a large ground cover of sorts. It’s not the right way; it’s just an aesthetic I have found and experimented with. When I see shrubs cut with shears, I struggle to find the species beautiful anymore. I see monopoly and a disconnect from the plant itself.

It is a timesaver: When you hedge plants instead of making small hand cuts, you ultimately are cutting off the natural growth regulating buds of the plant, causing an explosion of top heavy new growth. This is called the hydra effect, and it leads to tons of growth up top, preventing the sun from reaching other areas of the shrub, resulting in a leggy and less robust plant. It may be hard to believe, but pruning by hand saves time in the long run. You may spend more time in a single session with your shrub hand pruning, but the technique is so much more beneficial for the plant that you shouldn’t need to do the pruning more than once a year. Sometimes I prune asiatic azaleas, boxwoods, pittosporum, and so on only every two or three years. When using shears you, more often than not, will want to cut them back at least twice a year; more maintenance is needed when there is a hydra effect.

It is a more ecologically sound approach: An overall avoidance of power tools is less harmful to the environment, even if you mostly use battery-powered tools. As we are all learning, batteries themself are not so ecologically sound. Without the power tools, there is less pollution, less energy used, and far less noise. Power tools are intense and

powerful; they move fast. A lot of critters are harmed in the process, because they do not have enough time to react to what they are encountering. Though hand tools can, of course, affect our local fauna, the sound is far less intrusive and abrupt; they hear the actions early enough to move and offer you, the gardener, space to do their maintenance. •

April Plant Spotlight: Packera glabella, Butterweed

This is the greatest “weed” of all time. Packera gives and gives, when others have faded out and most have yet to awaken. Butterweed keeps my home in floral adornment in the absolute depths of winter. It is one of the only native wildflowers that seems to never truly sleep. Succulent, deep yellow shades abound, especially in semishade to sunny wet spaces like the forest’s edge, sunny swamp floors, roadside ditches, and so on. This flower pops up easily, yet should never be taken for granted. It makes an incredible cutflower and reseeds readily to fill moist spaces, creating a most epic colony. The butterweed is a lovely ad-

The next chapter in the life of this mystery rose began on August 29, 2005, a day of infamy for all those living along that stretch of the Mississippi River. Martin and her husband, MJ, prepared to evacuate their levee-front home ahead of Hurricane Katrina, as they’d done for twenty storms before. But no amount of pleading could convince Martin’s elderly parents to evacuate with them. Sadly, the older couple perished in the Category Five hurricane that hours later destroyed so much

Devastated by this unfathomable loss, the Martins relocated to Gonzales, where Martin said she was like a zombie for months. “I couldn’t do anything and barely got out of bed,” she said. “But people started sending me roses. Nurseries were sending them a dozen at a time.” What could she do? She began

CLIMBING BEAUTIES

The Story Behind the Rose

FOR TWENTY YEARS, THE PEGGY MARTIN ROSE HAS BLOOMED

ACROSS LOUISIANA AS A SYMBOL OF RESILIENCE

Story by Mimi Greenwood Knight

Peggy Martin’s love of gardening is inherited, coming straight down to her from her maternal grandmother, Margaret Gomez. Some of Martin’s earliest memories are of tagging along with her to local nurseries, or spending childhood summers working at her elbow as she designed and created elaborate gardens on the grounds of the family home at Conti and St. Louis Streets in New Orleans, as well as a rambling property in St. Tammany Parish, which her grandmother named Shangri-La.

“I watched as she mixed egg shells into coffee grounds, or took big bags of peat moss she kept open to the rain,” said Martin. Her grandmother would then use the mixture to feed hydrangeas, camellias, magnolias, and roses.

“I learned so much from her. Nobody had gardens like my grandmother’s.”

Before long, Martin was putting all that gardening wisdom to use on her own twelve-acre property in Phoenix, Louisiana, on the east bank of the Mississippi River in Plaquemines Parish. Like her grandmother, she has a particular fondness for roses. On that property, she eventually planted 450 antique varieties alongside thousands of irises,

daylilies, azaleas, camellias, magnolias, crinums, and annuals—drawing many a garden club and gardening enthusiast to her grounds.

“I’ll never have a garden like I had in Phoenix,” Martin said. “There was this gorgeous, alluvial soil built up over decades of river silt, and everything grew.”

Martin joined the New Orleans Old Rose Society, quickly taking on the role of president. Then, in 1989, she was gifted a cutting of the rose that would secure her spot in the annals of Louisiana gardening. One day her hairdresser, Ellen DuPriest, told her, “Come out back. I want to show you something.”

Martin followed her through the back door of the salon to see a hearty climbing rose with an absolute riot of pink blossoms. “I’d never seen anything like it,” Martin said. “She had two cuttings ready for me, but she couldn’t tell me the name of the rose.”

Martin’s stylist had gotten the plant from her mother-in-law, Faye DuPriest, who’d gotten it from a friend in the Garden District in New Orleans. But none of them knew of its origins.

Martin planted the semi-thornless climbing rose alongside an unsightly

tractor shed on her property. In just six years, it grew to forty feet by thirty feet, completely obscuring the shed. As the rose proliferated, Martin searched for its lineage.

“We’d book speakers for the Old Rose Society and I’d lure them to my house with the promise of fresh seafood from my husband’s shrimp boat,” Martin said. Once she got them there, she’d show them the rose and try to get an ID.

Martin hosted visiting rose experts from as far away as Australia and India. She sent off cuttings to The Antique Rose Emporium in Texas, Vintage Gardens in California, Petals From the Past in Alabama, and other collectors of old roses. LSU alum Dr. William Welch, a professor of horticulture at Texas A&M and longtime garden columnist for Southern Living, took particular interest. Still, no one could tell her anything about the multi-stemmed woody vine.

As Martin continued her search, Dr. Welch convinced her to put the rose into commerce under the name “Louisiana Rambler.” “He told me, ‘Peggy, we’ve got to share this rose with others,’” Martin said.

When the Martins finally mustered the courage to return to Phoenix, three months after the storm, it looked “like Hiroshima,” according to Martin. “There was nothing but black sticks and ash as far as you could see,” she said. “But there was that rose. After 150-mile-an-hour winds, a thirty-foot tidal surge, and salt water that soaked the area for weeks, I could see that it

It was hard to believe, but Martin has a theory. “Rationally, I know it survived because these old roses have such deep root systems,” she said. “But in my heart, I believe my parents knew how hard this was going to be on me, and they asked God to leave me that one rose.”

Word got out about her indomitable rose vine and, before long, friends at Chamblee’s Rose Nursery in Slidell asked to gather cuttings from the plant. “Mr. Chamblee and his son picked me up in a van filled with five-gallon buckets of water,” Martin said. “We gathered as many cuttings as we could and every one of them survived.”

They began selling the plants to other rose enthusiasts and, before long, Martin got a call from her old friend, Dr. Welch. “He asked permission to rename the rose ‘The Peggy Martin Rose,’” she said. The idea was for the Garden Club of America to sell Peggy Martin roses, with a dollar from each sale going toward restoration of three historic properties damaged by Hurricanes Katrina and Rita.

Twenty years later, the Martins have made Gonzales their home and Peggy Martin is doing what she does best, making her corner of the world gorgeous with flowers. Each spring, Peggy Martin Roses burst into bloom all across the South. Gardeners post countless pictures on social media of their own showstopping Peggy Martin in full regalia, reminders of the resilience of the human spirit and the beauty that can triumph over tragedy. •

Take Me Out On the Water

SAILING WITH THE LAKE CHARLES YACHT CLUB

Tho live in Louisiana is to feel some connection to its waterways: swimming in creekbeds, fishing at the camp, kayaking a bayou, speeding beneath a bridge spanning the Atchafalaya. A more niche community of Louisiana seafarer, though, is that of the yachty, the sailor.

Upon the barely-three-square-mile Lake Charles, a small but passionate troupe of sailors has been decking out the vista for decades via the Lake Charles Yacht Club (LCYC). “Dating back to when the area was founded,” said Robert Goodson, an LCYC Board Member, “sailing was how you got around back in the 1800s, and has always been a part of this community, being that we’re so centrally located to water and to the Gulf.”

Envisioned as a “democratic sailing club,” the LCYC is a far cry from the typical associations of anything with the word “yacht” attached.

“This isn’t like that Country Club-style yacht club,” said member Matthew Lundmark. “I always have to ex plain that to people.” Lundmark and his fiancée joined just last summer, after completing the LCYC’s week-long summer sailing course—which is completely free and open to the public. “All you do is show up with your life jacket,” said Goodson. “We teach adults how to sail a sunfish sailboat, from beginner level to being able to do it by yourself.”

Once you’ve got the skills in hand, membership is open to anyone willing to pay a monthly fee of $50—less than most gym memberships. You don’t even need a boat; members get full access to one of many club-owned sunfish sailboats, as well as the clubhouse. “It’s much more accessible than the preconceived notion of what a yacht club would be,” said Goodson.

Lake Charles is one of the best places for beginner sailors, said Goodson. It’s a small lake, without a lot of waves, and not very deep. You don’t need a big boat, and anyone from age four to age ninety, according to Good son, can do it.

During March and April, the LCYC hosts sailboat races every Wednesday at 6 pm—a wonder to watch, if not to sail yourself. Last year, outdoors photographer Dan Plummer captured the action for us, an afternoon at the heart of this micro-water culture in Louisiana.

PHOTO ESSAY

Story by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot • Photos by Dan Plummer

"THE SAILING COMMUNITY USED TO BE MUCH LARGER HERE, ESPECIALLY IN THE EARLY 2000S AND LATE 1990S, WE HAD A LARGE POPULATION OF HOBIE CAT SAILBOATS. AND WE USED TO HOST A REGIONAL REGATTA AT THE YACHT CLUB THAT WOULD DRAW HUNDREDS OF BOATS FROM OUT OF TOWN TO RACE. THAT WAS BASICALLY THE HEYDAY. WE’RE TRYING TO WORK BACK TOWARDS THERE. WITH HURRICANE RITA, AND ALL THE OTHER NATURAL DISASTERS, AND THEN ECONOMIC DOWNTURN, RECREATIONAL SAILING TAKES A BACKSEAT."

—ROBERT GOODSON, BOARD MEMBER OF THE LAKE CHARLES YACHT CLUB

Mariana Kalacheva

Garden Visitor 2, 8x10, acrylic & collage by Krista Roche

"SAILING IS DIFFERENT FROM KAYAKING OR MOTORBOATING, BECAUSE WHENEVER YOU’RE ON THE WATER AND THE WIND’S BLOWING AND IT’S WORKING FOR YOU, IT’S QUIET. LIKE ALL YOU HEAR IS THE BUBBLING OF THE WATER RUNNING THROUGH YOUR RUDDER. AND INSTEAD OF ALL THE SPLASHING AND EXHAUST AND STUFF LIKE THAT FROM THE ENGINE, IT’S JUST REAL PEACEFUL."

—MATTHEW LUNDMARK, MEMBER OF THE LAKE CHARLES YACHT CLUB

Experience Experience

Boggy Bayou Festival - May

Mamou Cajun Music Festival - September

Le Grand Hoorah - September

Louisiana Cotton Festival - October

Le Tournoi de Ville Platte - October

Louisiana Swine Festival - November

"A PERFECT DAY ON THE WATER, FOR ME: YOU’VE GOT AT LEAST TWELVE MILE PER HOUR WINDS— MAYBE SUNNY WITH SOME CLOUDS, SO I DON’T GET SUNBURNED. AND AN ICE CHEST FULL OF BEER, JUST GOING OUT THERE WITH MY GIRL. AND GOING IN DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS AND PAST ALL THE NEW STUFF THEY’RE BUILDING ALONG THE LAKE, LIKE THE CHILDREN’S MUSEUM AND CRYING EAGLE BREWERY. AND IF WE KEEP FOLLOWING THE SHORELINE, THERE’S ALL THESE OLD BIG HISTORIC HOUSES ALONG SHELL BEACH ROAD. THEN COMING BACK IN AND MAYBE JUST GRILLING. YOU CAN GET SUCH A NICE SUNSET OUT THERE."

—MAT THEW LUNDMARK

A Belle, a Queen, and Bally

A NEW ERA FOR BATON ROUGE'S

RIVERFRONT

CASINOS

Story by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

The Baton Rouge riverfront has been busy these past few years. Since the early 1990s, the Belle and the Casino Rouge have floated proudly on the Mississippi—two of the state’s fifteen riverboat casinos authorized to operate in 1991. These floating casinos were required to always have a maritime crew on board, to feature a paddlewheel for aesthetic reasons, and to periodically leave the dock a few times a day for a quick float up and back down the river.

Now, things are going landside. In 2018, as other states started legalizing gambling and posing competition, Louisiana legislators passed a law that allows waterbound casinos to build on land. Just three years later, The Queen Casino & Entertainment acquired both of the Baton Rouge riverboats and their adjacent properties and began the massive undertaking of moving them to shore. The former Hollywood Casino (formerly Casino Rouge) reopened in August of 2023 as The Queen Baton Rouge—a 30,000 square foot state of the art facility on land, featuring over 700 Vegas-style games, plus eighteen table games, sports betting, and more. Then, in February 2025, The Queen Casino & Entertainment merged with Bally's Corporation—which owns nineteen casinos across the United States. Though The Queen will retain its name, The Belle, which is set to re-open its fully remodeled hotel in April, will be rebranded as Bally's Baton Rouge. Later this fall, the new on-land Bally's casino will open with over 25,000 square feet of gaming, a sports lounge, and its own collection of restaurants.

Inside The Queen

If gambling’s your thing, you’ll appreciate the flashy, sleek (and clean) gaming spaces—which, while expansive in offerings, retain an intimacy and manageability that sets them apart from larger operations like Harrah’s or those in Vegas. Smokers, while kept off the main floor, are not booted outside, but designated to a special, highly appointed room with table games just off to the side. And according to The Queen’s team, in 2024 the casino distributed fifty-two jackpots over $20,000.

Not open to the public, but worth knowing about, is the onsite Dealer School, where aspiring dealers without any experience can learn (while getting paid) the intricate and particular art of dealing games like Blackjack, Cajun Stud, Texas Hold ‘Em, and more— offering valuable skills training and employment opportunities to members of the Baton Rouge community.

Casino Eats

But even if you’re not into gambling, the best kept secret of downtown Baton Rouge is that some of the neighborhood’s most interesting food is found at The Queen. The casino’s four restaurants, as well as those at Bally's, are overseen by Executive Chef Kevin Foil, a Louisiana native who learned his best kitchen tricks from his grandmother and was named one of Louisiana’s Best Chefs last year by the American Culinary Federation New Orleans Chapter. In addition to quick, pick-me-up comfort food at Capitol Coffee and the pan-Asian delights of the 3 Wok Noodle Bar,

there is Louisiana’s only location of Shaquille O’Neal’s Big Chicken restaurant—which served one of the best Nashville Hot chicken sandwiches I’ve ever had, as well as a tempting selection of shakes (and an option to make them spirited!).

But the real star of the show is Foil’s 1717 Kitchen + Cocktails, where the chef gets to flex his menu development talents and experiment with Louisiana twists on classic dishes. The spacious dining area is casino-chic, accented in brick and stone with dozens of high-definition televisions, high ceilings, a bar at the center of everything, and a stage for live entertainment. Great for a casual date or a gathering with friends—the cocktails are fun and creative: think smoked Old Fashioneds, martini specials, and concoctions like the “Purple Reign” with gin, lavender, and lemonade. Shareables are hearty plates of Cajun Swamp Wings (fried frog legs), alligator fritters, and sliders with bacon jam on a pretzel bun. But the star of the plating and flavor experience are the entrées—I enjoyed the melt-in-your-mouth roasted pork belly, with a side of garlic parmesan gnocchi whose texture I can only describe as a crispy pillow. The barbecue shrimp and grits were buttery and decadent, with a hint of gouda and a sauce made with beer. Though the menu doesn’t flaunt it like many other restaurants, Foil shared that he makes it a priority to source as many of his ingredients locally as he can— especially delicacies like Gulf shrimp, gator, and frog legs. •

ISLAND TIME

300 Days of Sunshine in South Padre

A CURIOUS ISLAND WITH AN INTREPID SPIRIT

Story by Sophie Nau

As our small plane descended above palm tree-dotted streets, the outside promised a balmy September afternoon. Soon I hwould be sipping a margarita in the glow of an orange and pink evening sky as my paradisiacal weekend began. It hadn’t taken long to arrive at my tropical destination. Turns out, to the uninitiated like myself, a resort-style getaway has been hiding just off the coast of Texas—for decades.

South Padre Island is a barrier island between the Gulf and the Laguna Madre, accessible from nearby Brownsville via the Queen Isabella Causeway. Dubbed Isla de Santiago by Spanish settlers and originally home to the Karankawa Native Americans, South Padre is a surprising strip of land that has soaked up the border culture of the Lower Rio Grande Valley where it is situated and combined it with the charm of seaside living. It’s a curious mix; and if there’s a German word for “the

feeling of being in multiple places at once,” I pleasantly experienced it during my weekend stay.

As a whimsical beach town, South Padre is accessibly small. Most things are off the main strip of road, and the bus operates on a free wave-down system. Along Padre Boulevard, the hallmarks of seaside life prevail: pastel-painted buildings advertising discounted swim trunks and sun hats, candy emporiums, kitschy constructions of an octopus and a whale’s open mouth. Shells stud the thirty-four miles of coastline, and you can even surf here when the tide is right. For years it’s been a hub for “Winter Texans” escaping the colder parts of the state or college kids on spring break, but South Padre Island is a year-round destination, with three hundred days of sunshine casting a glow on snorkeling, diving, and general hanging loose.

Like any island, life under the sea is as important as on land. Beneath the surrounding waters is a precious

ecosystem that residents of the island are keen to protect, with nature centers like the Island Birding, Nature Center & Alligator Sanctuary preserving the aquatic inhabitants of the Gulf and monitoring the extensive birding of the South Padre skies. In just the few days I was there, I encountered more wildlife in South Padre Island than I had in all my summer excursions combined: slow and ancient-looking sea turtles, dolphins in the multiples, and a twelve-foot alligator sure to impress even the most seasoned swamp-kayakers. I felt the prickly suction of a starfish plucked from the ocean and placed on my hand, before it was gently released back into the water. On the Breakaway Cruises dolphin tour, I learned the local gossip of South Padre sea life (Berkeley, identifiable by a busted fin, has fathered the most offspring in the bay). For the greater part of our excursion, dolphins bobbed up and down alongside us, then gathered to bow ride along the neighboring Captain Conrad Shrimp Boat.

The beach on South Padre Island. All images courtesy of Visit South Padre Island.

There was horseback riding on the beach, led by South Padre Island Adventure Park, as the waves made their long roll to shore. Looking back at a photo I took of the sunset trek across the sand, I thought that if I posted it to Instagram, what appears in the frame could pass for a Middle Eastern sand dune. But no, I was in Texas, just a forty-minute flight from Houston, or a couple hours in the air from New Orleans.

Texas is roughly the size of France, and its more typical symbols of identity—the rugged stewards of farmland, oil, and cattle; the packed Friday night football stadium; the oversized hats of rancheros and cowboys—are globally iconic. In South Padre, those characteristics are more complex. Even though the island lies within the state, it more specifically lies within the Rio Grande Valley, which encompasses parts of both Northern Mexico and Southern Texas and hosts a largely bilingual and bicultural population. With the sounds of Spanish fluttering in the tropics-style humidity and the panoramic ocean views, South Padre encompasses a region defined by the geographic boundaries of the Valley and the sea, more so than state or country lines.

This pocket of Southern Texas and Northern Mexico was on full display at South Padre’s Tacos y Tequila Festival, held each fall. Local luche libre fights lit up the stage, with locals passionately cheering for their hometown favorites. Vendors cut juicy al pastor from glistening trompos, smothered papas fritas in crema, lime, and chili, and served up three-bite carnitas tacos with onion and cilantro. One can most plainly see how the identities of the Rio Grande Valley have developed through its food. I ate plentifully, with most meals dipping into the bounties of the sea and flavors of the region. Restaurants like Nautico Island Grill and Viva feature fresh-caught seafood in the form of fish tacos and seafood platters. Tejano cuisine fills out breakfast and lunch menus with migas (scrambled eggs fried up with tortilla strips and

salsa), soupy charro beans, and eggs rancheros. And with South Padre being an island, ocean front dining is abundant. Café on the Beach at the Palms Resort offers a breezy view under a semi-open rattan roof, strong coffee, and classic breakfasts of the pancake and Tex-Mex variety, plus sunset views for happy hour.

And while lingering over meals is easy to do, industrious initiatives benefitting both locals and tourists pepper the island, and are well worth exploring. The Art Business Incubator helps local artists develop their practice and businesses in the area. The initiative has helped artist and ecologist Eva Ryan, whose recently opened Paper Caper Co. displays local artists’ work. At the time of my visit, Paper Caper featured a show by Cecilia Sierra composed of ink and gouache drawings and accompanying text that documented the artist’s time spent as a barista in the Brownsville Airport. One drawing depicts the U.S. flag behind a barricade at the airport and the text “Welcome to Obstacles.” In another, the café’s espresso machine is situated next to anecdotes relating how so many travelers have found simple pleasures in the airport cafe, especially those from Latin America.

“A Cuban lady was so excited to experience a cortado after a long time without,” Sierra writes. “A group of men, an Ecuadorian, a Venezuelan, and a Colombian all asked for Americanos, so they can taste the beans. Turns out one of their families had a finca de cafe, a piece of land they grew coffee on. He took pictures to send to his family.”

Top: The Island Birding, Nature Center & Alligator Sanctuary on South Padre Island. Bottom: The Margaritaville Beach Resort on South Padre Island.

Next door, Ryan Henry Fine Art features the Rio Grande native’s watercolor and oil scenes of life on the island. Often working en plein air, Henry’s paintings capture coastal landscapes and slice-of-life scenes in town. In the midst of this quietly growing art hub, I started to learn more of the individuals who have made this island their home, who make art here, and whose work echoes the emotional infrastructure of the island. There are the lifelong locals, who find inspiration in the Rio Grande’s unique climate, and then there are the temporary folks who fall in love with the island’s spirit, like the Argentine artist Marcos Sambulio, who while “stranded” during COVID, transformed an outer wall of the Courtyard Marriott into a colorful mural.

And of course, there are the island’s most esteemed elders. At Sea Turtle Inc, the Kemps Ridley turtles sleepily meander in large water tanks or recuperate from injuries in the “hospital wing.” After watching the turtles (an almost meditative activity), I was drawn to the museum text on the walls telling the story of the Sanctuary’s founder, Ila Fox Loetscher. In 1931, at age twenty-five, Loetscher earned her pilot’s license and became a founding member of the female pilot organization, the Ninety Nines, alongside Amelia Earhart. Upon being widowed, she moved to Texas to be close to her parents, but settle down she did not. The family embarked on what still feels like the most rugged of adventures: driving south along the Pan-American highway for two years. When Loetscher returned, she chose South Padre Island as her new home and found a calling rescuing Kemps Ridley sea turtles. As I tried to crack the code of South Padre, Loetscher’s story rang out to me. She seemed to embody the intrepid spirit that pervaded this surprising little island straddling Texas, Mexico, and the sea.

That sense of new horizons could also be found in the history of the Port Isabel Lighthouse, the oldest operating lighthouse in the Texas Gulf. In its heyday, it cast a sixteen-mile radius across the waters to guide ships to safe harbors. Now, as you climb the winding spiral steps, you can get a sweeping view of the bay and the Queen Isabella Causeway that connects the island to the mainland. If you hang out long enough, you’ll catch a glimpse of a decked-out pirate ship crossing the bay on one of its buccaneer-themed tours. Up another rickety ladder and you’ll climb into the stuffy room that holds the Third Order Fresnel Lens, a marvel of prisms that concentrates light into the night sky. The Lens has replaced the lighthouse’s original lantern, whose wick once had to be cut at precise measurements by the live-in lighthouse keeper.

Top: Horseback riding on South Padre Island Beach. Bottom: Blackburnian warbler, image courtesy of the SPI Birding Center.

For the traveler looking for that shut-the-world-off retreat, resorts dot the main road with swimming pools, spas, and direct access to the beach. At the Margaritaville Beach Resort, Jimmy Buffet lyrics are codes for living, and signs that point to “Fun and Escapism” approach relaxation with tongue-and-cheek verve. The folks at Margaritaville get it: it’s hard these days to wind down, and sometimes you need a little nudge toward escapism. Jumping into a vacation from my usual hustle, I was lulled by the cheery tropical fun of it all. The swim-up bar, the nearby ocean, the rollicking live music at the Landshark Bar and Grill (where the band covered recent hits from both sides of the border) all point to one thing: enjoy yourself. And why not? There must be something psychological about islands that allow for the easiest sort of disconnect. I’ve crossed the water literally, and proverbially, to relaxation. Do you really have to go so far away to relax, or learn something new? Can’t you envelop yourself in escape just off the mainland?

From the Margaritaville penthouse suites, NASA employees post up to watch Space X launches at Elon Musk’s nearby Starbase, located in Boca Chica across the water. Space X has been purchasing land in the area while Musk is working hard to brand Starbase as an official city for Space X employees. Though undeniably bold, it feels strangely fitting that Musk would choose to take off right next to the hard-to-pindown South Padre, positioning the island into the future. Perhaps some day, South Padre will be to Space X what Houston is to NASA, but at the moment, I wasn’t quite ready to contemplate such things. I was on island time. Before long, my sand-and-sea filled weekend, filled with alligator sightings, tequila tastings, and ocean excursions, was up. After a hearty breakfast at the bustling Yummies Bistro, I packed up and said goodbye to the sun-bleached cafés, the gentle surf, to my new aquatic friends. At the Brownsville Airport, the coffee shop wasn’t open, but I thought of the travelers of Sierra’s sketches and stories who stopped by for a reprieve in coffee. “Somehow a four-dollar cup of coffee seemed affordable to everyone,” Sierra writes in her exhibit. Back up in the small plane to Houston, the palms growing smaller and smaller, I felt similarly about South Padre. There is something for everyone on this island on the brink of paradise. • sopadre.com.

Disclaimer: This trip was partially funded by Visit South Padre Island, though the opinions of the writer are entirely her own and formed independently of this fact.

Top: Sea turtle hatchling at Sea Turtle Inc. Bottom: South Padre Island.

The Secrets of Shark Tooth Hunting

Bundled in layers, I shivered against the cold ocean breeze hand concentrated on the thick line of shells snaking along the wide expanse of beach before me. My family had already spread out, each one hoping to be the first to spot a fossilized shark tooth amidst the colorful shells left exposed by the receding tide. We had driven from Charleston, South Carolina, to Edisto Beach State Park on this January morning to meet Ashley Oliphant, author of Shark Tooth Hunting on the Carolina Coast

A professional beach comber, Oliphant arrived in flip flops and a tank top. A light jacket was thrown over her perfectly tanned arm. She drove over three hours to meet us at Edisto, to show us one of her favorite spots for fossil hunting. When asked if she minded giving away her hunting locales, she shrugged, “There’s enough treasure in this ocean for all of us.”

She pulled out a small bowl of fossilized shark teeth, ranging in size from an inch to the size of her palm. These were just a handful of the specimens in her collection of hundreds of thousands of teeth. Up to 30 million years ago, these teeth fell from the mouths of ancient sharks that swam ocean waters covering nearly half of present-day South Carolina.

“You have to train your eyes,” she told us while we analyzed each of the teeth, some jet black in color and others brown, or the rare Carolina cream. The color depended on the minerals in the sediment when the fossil was created.

“The more you hold and study, the more your eyes are used to seeing it.”

Oliphant grew up shark teeth hunting on family vacations to North Myrtle Beach. Her passion never died, and in 2015, she published her book, which details both how to hunt for teeth and describes the ancient sharks from which they came. Today, she teaches shark teeth and shelling classes at Coastal Carolina University’s Osher Lifelong Learning Institute (OLLI) and offers speaking engagements at libraries, shell clubs, and other groups. Her sixth book, The Ultimate Shell Seeker's Guide: Building a Better Beachcombing Strategy, comes out this year.

“For fossil hunting, almost all of the Gulf Coast is good, but the best place is the Carolinas,” said Oliphant. “Millions and millions of years ago, the Carolinas’ mid-state sandhills were the coastline, and megatooth sharks swam all over here. Now you can find their teeth from the sandhills eastward to the ocean by digging, looking in creeks, and scuba diving, but the easiest and safest way is looking on the beach.”

The abundance of teeth relies on many factors, such as the location of fossil deposits being washed out, the wind, the currents, and the season. “Some reliable places are Edisto Beach and anywhere on the Grand Strand, from Myrtle Beach to Pawleys Island,” explained Oliphant, who learned first-hand by visiting every beach in the Carolinas and tracking the online fossil forums. She often hunts at night with a headlamp, arriving at high tide after midnight and searching through the early morning hours. “You want a falling tide. You always find more as the water goes out rather than in. Plus, the teeth are easier to spot in the wet sand.”

She walked with us a bit, eliciting a shout of joy when she spotted a giant fossilized horse tooth. “I never find these on the beach!” she exclaimed. Oliphant eventually departed to meet a scuba diver collecting the enormous Megalodon shark teeth. She explained divers often discover the hand-sized teeth offshore and in coastal rivers. Meanwhile, we continued down the beach, finding a handful of smaller, glistening black shark teeth over the next several hours.

Later that evening, we discussed our treasures over the monumental family platter at Swig & Swine BBQ in Charleston’s West Ashley district. We

devoured the meal, which included seven cuts of meats, including pulled pork, brisket, and smoked turkey, at a restaurant that has been “horrifying vegetarians since 2013.”

The next morning, we stopped by the College of Charleston’s Mace Brown Museum of Natural History to learn more about the marine fossils found in the area and marvel at the giant jaw of the extinct Megalodon shark, which could grow up to sixty-five feet long. From here, we traveled to Mount Pleasant, where we had booked a late afternoon boat and fossil adventure with Coastal Expeditions.

First stop, though, was lunch at Vicious Biscuit. Their Southern buttermilk biscuits come stuffed with a range of delights, such as The Fat Boy’s crispy fried chicken and pimento cheese. After its flagship Mount Pleasant location opened in 2018, the restaurant spread across the South, with its latest opening in Gonzales, Louisiana.

Ready to burn off those calories, we headed to the Shem Creek waterfront to board Coastal Expedition’s boat for our twenty-minute journey to New Crab Bank (aka Shark Tooth Island).

On the scenic ride past rows of shrimp boats, naturalist Jackie Kelsey explained how the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (Corps) built Crab Bank in the 1950s

BEACH COMBING THE CAROLINA COAST WITH ASHLEY OLIPHANT Story by Kristy Christiansen • Photos by Paul Christiansen

when they deposited soil dredged from the harbor. The island became a flourishing bird nesting refuge—until the land eroded away. Coastal Expeditions and other environmental partners approached the Corps to rebuild the island, but the agency was bound to follow the least costly option for disposal of the dredged waste, which was pumping it offshore. Negotiations ensued and the environmental groups agreed to fundraise the $3 million needed to recreate Crab Bank. In December 2021, the Corps built New Crab Bank, and the birds flocked to the 32-acre island.

From March 15 to October 15, the island is closed for nesting, but the winter

brings a new opportunity—fossil hunting. “Imagine flipping a cake over and having the bottom layer on top. This is what the Corps did. Now the fossil layer is on top. They are not washing up on the beach, but rather coming out of it,” said Kelsey, who has spent ten years guiding adventures across the United States.

As the boat came ashore on the beach, Kelsey lowered the plank, and we single-file marched onto the treeless island. Almost immediately, she drew a circle on the ground and asked a child to find the tooth. He gently picked up the nearly two-inch specimen, his contagious smile energizing the group with hopes for a successful hunt.

I started out above the water line, picking up nearly every small, black object I saw. Most, as Kelsey described them, were matrix, or blobs of phosphate. As I wondered if my vision simply wasn’t sharp enough to catch sight of the signature triangular-shaped teeth, I spotted a much larger object in the shallow water several feet away. Round with a cylindrical indentation, it was a fossilized shark vertebrate. Shortly after, I started finding steinkerns, fossilized casts of the insides of clams. I refocused my efforts and started sloshing through the water, collecting new treasures every few minutes.

The two hours on the beach passed quickly, and once again, we displayed our finds over an evening dinner, this time at

Mex 1 Coastal Cantina on Sullivan’s Island. As we fought over the last dregs of the addictive street corn queso, my sixteen-year-old son ceremoniously started emptying his pockets and lined the table with more than fifty teeth. While he gleefully roasted our inferior efforts, the rest of us savored our tacos and burritos and downed our margaritas and the very fitting Shark Attack drinks (Shirley Temples with toy sharks that poured out liquid to turn the drinks red).

All in all, it was a productive two days, filled with long walks on the beach, gorgeous red sunsets on the Carolina coast, and a box of fossils to display at home as a guaranteed conversation starter. • charlestoncvb.com

SWEET THINGS TO DO

Donaldsonville’s Gospel Fest | April 5

Ascension Jeep Invasion-Jeepin for Vets | April 5

Donaldsonville’s Classic Car Show | April 12

Baton Rouge Spring Craft & Vendor Market | April 12-13

The Gonzales Magnolia Market | April 25-27

Festival de la Prairie | April 25-27

Baton Rouge Home Show | April 26-27

Gonzales Gun & Knife Show | May 17-18

Gonzales Jambalaya Festival | May 22-25

View our full calendar of events!

Disclaimer: This trip was partially funded by the Charleston Area CVB, though the opinions of the writer are entirely her own and formed independently of this fact.

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ART OF OUR STATE

“Defining Sunlight”

THE DELTA IMPRESSIONIST GERALD DELOACH

Story by Marshall Blevins

Thhe thing about any road trip to the Mississippi Delta—you won’t get there fast. From Baton Rouge to New Orleans, from the old river road, even from Jackson, you’re going to have a lot of time to think or listen to books. It’s almost like a ritual thought cleanse to prepare you for what you’re liable to encounter in the Delta. The sky becomes big once you come out of Yazoo City or Vicksburg, and it’s big enough for all of your thoughts, worries, dreams. It’s the ultimate backroad trip, if you let yourself have the time to explore.

The same goes for when you arrive. There are side roads galore and the levee road never gets old. The mysteries and magic can remain hidden if you don’t go out looking for them.

I really came here for the people, for the stories, for the new revelations. There is still mystery in the human heart and it feels a little bit like unlocking a new level to make new friends and hear their stories. Gerald DeLoach is one of those medals of a well-explored life in the Delta. For the decade I’ve been coming here, I’ve passed within feet of his house again and again and never shook his hand until a few years ago. Then the door opened. In the last forty years, if you were heading north on 61 and turned right off of the highway across from

Alligator, you’d pass a big house owned by a country legend’s granddaughter. You’d pass by hundreds of ghost houses plowed down and tilled over for more than fifty years. The spirit of Robert Johnson would be walking to another version of the crossroads, singing and crying old blues. There are bright stories and dark stories and a lot of “there used to be” on this true rural road. If you’re not careful, you’ll scrape the bottom of your car off. But in the last forty years, you might have seen a mural being painted of a bayou, as big as the side of the house, just out in the yard. Traffic used to stop on the road for people coming by to look at it. You might have seen the lights on in the old pig-barn-turned-studio at three in the morning. You might have seen a maze of multicolored zinnias, or a fence built in a day for visiting horses. You might have seen herds of guineas, chickens, and turkeys, or even people dressed up as ducks, if you were there on the right day. The curiosity on DeLoach’s square of land hasn’t ceased in all of that time, if only you knew where to look. He keeps his place green and grown up. He can name every tree that grows. There’s asparagus in the early spring, greens in the winter, persimmons and pawpaws, and fish in the pond. He keeps frog’s tongue succulents and a myriad of helter-skelter planted roses. He’s made an Eden for himself in the middle of an industrially agricultural landscape.

Monet, Pissarro, Cezanne, Degas—they were able to go out and paint in the fields because of a brand-new technology: paint in tubes. DeLoach’s work follows them out to the bayous and fields, and sometimes into the realm of imagination. However, the true delineation of an impressionist lies in their eyes. Like a vinyl record just sounds better than a CD, like a film photo just has something about it compared to a digital image, the naked eye can see and carry over more color and that something that nothing else can compare to.

The magic of the world we live in is found by noticing, in the natural world above all—the sunrise, the sunset, the colors of the night woods, the beauty of a cold night full of stars, the full moon, the belt of Venus, the crepuscular glow, the atmosphere of a thunderstorm, the portal of a foggy day. You can’t do these things inside; you can’t really capture how beautiful the sunset is, with even the best cameras. The value of traveling is found in new experiences, in noticing deeply because we are somewhere new, and so everything is worthy of our attention.

Out there on the county line, he keeps his paradise to himself—one of the many on a roster of artists that graduated from Delta State in the sixties and seventies, although he never made art as a child. The closest thing to it in the house might have been the annual calendar. He went to school to be an accountant, like his oldest brother. By chance, he took a design class and the professor remarked, “You have a natural sense of design.” And that was all it took to change his major. At a time when the school was moving toward abstract expressionism, he decided, “it was better to have control over my medium—to be able to illustrate what I chose to by learning how to draw in nature and mix colors.” And so, he signed up for classes under Sammy Britt, who led the challenging, impressionistic faction of the arts school. Britt was a sharp and witty teacher, who was such a friend to the students it was more like he was a student himself. He dedicated his teaching to form, color, light.

The thing about impressionists, you’re familiar with their names—

DeLoach has perfected this idea down to the ideal of living it every day, noting the changes over an evening sky, the shades of green in a morning bayou scene, the colors of the door frame as the lights go off in the house. He is not interested in making things beautiful or sellable; he is interested in understanding what he sees, in noticing. He began studying under Cape Cod artist Henry Hensche, who had studied under the acclaimed portraitist Charles Hawthorn. Their first exercises were finding the color notes in a white block on a white table. Nothing in nature is ever really white or black but made up of colors reflecting off of each other.

When I first met DeLoach, we went out to a bridge so I could see him paint. He scratched in the general shapes in charcoal, and then began painting with his palette knife—a method favored by Britt and Hensche as a way to discourage linear drawing and invite the study of color, compelling the artist to lay down a color note instead of racing toward a finished image. Palette knives are also easier to clean than brushes; one swipe of a paint rag and you can start again without muddying the colors. DeLoach doesn’t paint the typical Delta—the long horizontal lined fields, cotton patches, cypress trees. Instead, he is concerned with interpreting the colors in the time of day or light key. “The Delta is my home. I like it because it’s wide-open, expansive, and for the big skies. It has a universal quality to it, and my work isn’t meant to define the Delta, but rather to define sunlight.”

The further you dig, the more you find. When you drive to the Delta you receive what you are looking for. If you go looking for hate, you will find it. If you go looking for love, you will find it in bounty, the same with stories, the same with art. If you pay attention to the world, it will seek you, too. • geralddeloach.com

Artwork by Gerald DeLoach, photographed by Marshall Blevins.

SEASON OF LIFE