Country Roads Magazine "The Myths & Legends Issue" October 2025

Memories, stories, and the spaces in between by James Fox-Smith

8 NOTEWORTHIES

A new book on incarceration & a new podcast on adaptation

FREAKY FÊTES

Venture into the dark forest of festival season, speckled with spooky delights

A long-held legend beneath the Bayou Teche gains official recognition by Shanna Beck Perkins

A SHADOW IN THE DELTA

Did Jesse James rob two Mississippi stores in 1879, or was the tale a whiskey-fueled myth? by William Browning

THE WITCH OF YAZOO

The story, and the grave, behind the Mississippi fire of 1904 by Susan Marquez

On the Cover

Artwork by Lynda Frese

When Breaux Bridge artist Lynda Frese was traveling in Scotland last year, she noticed something peculiar: bouquets of flowers carefully placed beside “really exquisite” trees in the forest. She didn’t know why they were there. She imagined memorials, or offerings of some kind. But they felt like evidence, somehow, of her artistic theory: that nature, and the wilderness, are alive. And the trees—they are witnesses to mysteries humans aren’t privy to. Frese’s latest series, “Far Out,” which is featured in this month’s “Perspectives” column on page 72, is a contemplation on things humans do not see, and therefore cannot understand. Frese imagines the secret possibilities held within the depths of the forests, where UFOs and extraterrestrial beings might wander, known only by the plants themselves. This space of unknowing, wherein we fill the gaps by way of storytelling or art, is a thread that runs through this year’s Myths & Legends issue. Since the dawn of time, humans have felt compelled to explain the unexplainable—granting us tales of pirates in hidden tunnels, of witches spitting out curses, of headless horsemen wandering into the wilderness. As Shanna Beck Perkins writes of the Teche Tunnel, “[This tale] is just one of many passed from porch to pew to page—each adding shape and texture to the cultural identity of the region.”

Chef Jeremy Noffke’s irreverent Hattiesburg

by William Browning

Graveside peach cobbler, a speakeasy in Baton Rouge & more by CR staff

54 ROOTS IN THE PINES

Reliable online resources for those who prefer their hands in the ground by Jess Cole 62 INSIDE THE BLACKPOT

In Greensburg, an equine refuge built on a rich family legacy by Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun

58 FRENCHTOWN FRISSONS

How a Louisiana crossing became a canvas for generations of haunted lore by Camille Doucet

60 THE PRICE OF DYING

The business of the undertaker in Civil War New Orleans by Dave McCormick

Boots on the grass at one of Acadiana’s most delicious festivals by Christie Matherne Hall

68 ALL ABOARD THE MARDI GRAS EXPRESS

A night out in Gulfport is now just a quick train ride away by Beth D’Addono

FAR OUT Lynda Frese’s ongoing search for the sacred by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Publisher James Fox-Smith

Associate

Publisher

Ashley Fox-Smith

Managing Editor Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Arts & Entertainment

Editor

Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun

Creative Director Kourtney Zimmerman

Contributors:

Shanna Beck Perkins, William Browning, Jess Cole, Beth D’Adonno, Camille Doucet, Beth Kleinpeter, Susan Marquez, Christie Matherne Hall, Dave McCormick, Paul Schexnayder

Cover Artist

Lynda Frese

Advertising

SALES@COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM

Sales Team

Heather Gammill, Heather Gibbons, Mary Margaret Lindsey Operations Coordinator Molly C. McNeal

President Dorcas Woods Brown

reflect the views of the publisher, nor do they constitute an endorsement of products or services herein. Country Roads magazine retains the right to refuse any advertisement. Country Roads cannot be responsible for delays in subscription deliveries due to U.S. Post Office handling of third-class mail.

Reflections

FROM THE PUBLISHER

One Sunday afternoon hwhen September finally hturned cooler, my wife and I were riding an old 4-wheeler around a scrubby patch of woods on her family’s farmland, which is what counts as a big weekend now that our kids have left home. We hadn’t set foot on this land in years, partly because it’s been leased to a hunting club for over a decade, and partly because it’s just plain hard to get to. The tract is separated from the larger, more navigable part of the property by a winding tributary of Thompson Creek, which has carved out a ravine deep and raggedy enough to have made crossing with a wheeled vehicle effectively impossible. On the other side of this creek, the terrain rises into what pass for high bluffs in this part of the world, and in the years since anyone has farmed it, the property has taken on a woolly, land-that-time-forgot character as trees fall, saplings rise, and open fields once planted in wheat and soybeans are replaced by the pines and hardwoods that ruled until people started showing up with saws a couple hundred years ago. While trundling our clapped-out 4-wheeler through one of the last sliv-

ers of open pasture, our passel of dogs flushed what must have been twenty wild turkeys. They burst from the waisthigh grass and lit out for the treetops to the delight of dogs and humans alike. Watching the turkeys whirring away brought to mind one of many stories about my wife’s father, Richard—an accomplished turkey hunter and by all accounts an inveterate joker, too. In this particular story, Richard had entered a turkey calling competition—the kind in which turkey hunting purists are scored on their ability to mimic flirtatious hens by a panel of stone-faced judges. As the other contestants yelped, purred, and cackled away, Richard concluded that he didn’t have a chance of winning, and decided to go in a different direction. When his turn came, he faced the judges, pulled two handfuls of corn from his pockets, and scattered it onto the stage. The judges recoiled in horror; the audience gasped. If hunters wore pearls they would have clutched them, because as everyone in attendance knew perfectly well, baiting turkeys is illegal.

Whether I have this story quite right or not I cannot say, partly because I can’t remember who told it to me, and also because Richard died in 1975, when my wife was just a little girl. But through-

out the more than thirty years she and I have known each other, stories about her father have always been around. From his younger brother, Mike, who still lives outside of Mobile, Alabama, where they grew up. From friends made during Richard’s LSU days, when he played catcher for LSU Baseball and acquired lasting infamy by streaking through the quad. And from my mother-in-law, Dorcas, who faced the unimaginable task of raising two young daughters and running a farm as a young widow when melanoma took her husband at the age of thirty-two. As for my wife, who was five at the time, her own recollections of her father are slippery, precious snippets that occupy a liminal space somewhere between memories and feelings. She remembers the sense of safety; there’s a recollection of sitting in a big lap and stopping a spinning world globe with

her small finger to choose which country they would “visit” in their imaginations. When things are hard, she has a feeling of never quite being alone.

Filling the large spaces between memory fragments are the stories—of a big, ambitious, jovial man who liked a joke, loved his kids and his friends, longed to travel, and lived life to the fullest, all the way to the end. Twenty years ago, feeling short on stories, my wife and her sister tracked down three of Richard’s friends from his LSU days and invited them to the house. Doctors all, they drove in from Thibodaux, Lafayette, and Breaux Bridge, and did not disappoint. After supper, I put the kids to bed while the five of them took a bottle of whiskey to the porch. They stayed there for hours, filling up the large spaces with stories, laughter, and some tears, too, When they left, they’d gifted my wife and her sister a richer, more complete picture of their father—and perhaps of themselves, too. When something big goes missing, the stories we share are gifts—the connective tissue that binds memories together and us to one another, helping us to understand better who we are, where we belong, and why we are here after all.

—James Fox-Smith, publisher james@countryroadsmag.com

Captive State

A NEW BOOK EXPANDS ON THE HNOC’S SOBERING EXHIBITION ON INCARCERATION IN LOUISIANA

An in-depth account of Louisiana’s infamous legacy of mass incarceration, recently hexplored in a critically acclaimed exhibition at the Historic New Orleans Collection, has been adapted

and expanded for a new book released this month.

Captive State: Louisiana and the Making of Mass Incarceration builds upon last year’s exhibition of the same name, tracing the roots of the state’s global record of incarceration back to New Orleans’s brutal role in the American slave trade. The exhibition, which ran from July 2024 to February 2025, attracted a broad audience, from formerly incarcerated individuals and victims’ advocates, to law enforcement and prosecutors; singer-songwriter John Legend even paid a visit, along with respected death penalty activist Sister Helen Prejean.

Through profiles of people impacted by incarceration, discussions of key historical artifacts, and assessments of data visualizations, the text interrogates Louisiana’s relationship to the prison industrial complex, exploring whether the carceral forces that shaped the state will continue

As Per Tradition

to hold it captive. The book was written by curators Eric Seiferth, Katherine Jolliff Dunn, and Kevin T. Harrell, and edited by Nick Weldon.

In the foreword, University of Loyola New Orleans law professor Andrea Armstrong writes, “Captive State is not merely history. Rather, it is evidence of how the past shapes and reverberates within the present. Black Louisianians are still disproportionately incarcerated within dangerous conditions. There is a torturous continuity in descriptions of Louisiana jail and prison conditions.”

Asserting that the three-hundred-year origins of the state’s reliance on forced and institutionalized labor is inextricably linked to a capitalistic foundation in racism, the book unflinchingly tackles the horrors of colonialism, the practice of convict leasing, the depersonalized bureaucracy that designed a blueprint for mass incarceration, and the weighty

significance of the Louisiana State Penitentiary at Angola. From newspaper clippings advertising searches for runaway slaves and political campaigns exploiting the public’s fear of crime, to paintings and photographs of horrific prison conditions, the book draws readers into the ugly realities of incarceration over the centuries.

Much of the book’s epilogue is dedicated to a single question: “If you could change Louisiana’s incarceration system, where would you begin?” Over two pages, the authors provide space for real responses to this query, handwritten by visitors to the HNOC exhibition. Some examples include policy suggestions, such as “fund education,” and “end mandatory minimums,” while others remain simple, to the point: “compassion,” “love,” “mercy.” hnoc.org.

—Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun

LOUISIANA FOLKLIFE MONTH CELEBRATES THE ARTISTS AND ELDERS SUSTAINING OUR CULTURAL LEGACY

October is Louisiana Folklife hMonth, an opportunity to hcelebrate the many traditions that make our state a vessel for memory, joy, and wisdom— spanning cultures and identities from Native American and African American, to Cajun and Creole, and beyond. As part of this commemoration, the Louisiana Folklife Program annually recognizes five culture bearers who are carrying these traditions forward. These Folklife ambassadors will be honored throughout October at events and venues across the state.

“Without the contributions of tradition bearers, our culture would lose its rich vitality,” said Dr. Shane Rasmussen, Director of the Louisiana Folklife Center at Northwestern State University. “Louisiana’s Folklife Month shines a spotlight on artists and cultural authorities who keep the fire of tradition burning bright.”

At 2 pm on October 5 at LSU Rural Life Museum’s Harvest Day, the Folklife Program will honor Monique Me-

trailer—a master and teacher of multiple traditional skills, including quiltmaking, candlemaking, basketweaving, and restoring China dolls. For more than thirty years, she has been an educator on the lives and legacies of rural women living in the 1800s in this area.

From New Orleans, cultural ambassador Dianne Honoré will be recognized at 2 pm on October 8 at Dillard University’s PSB Atrium. Honoré is a seventh generation New Orleanian and has spent her life joining art, food, and music as mechanisms to educate on the region’s complicated and rich history—creating a descendant-curated tour of River Road plantation country, hosting crafting workshops, and educating on Louisiana foodways to the city’s visitors. She also takes part in the New Orleans tradition of Black Masking with the Yellow Pocahontas Hunters; and is the founder of the Black Storyville Baby Dolls, the Amazons Benevolent Society—which advocates against environmental racism and healthcare disparities—and Unheard

Voices of Louisiana, a project that tells stories of Louisiana’s marginalized voices.

In a special presentation at this year’s Festivals Acadiens et Créoles’s Scene Ma Louisiane at 3:30 pm on October 12, CJ Chenier will receive his ambassadorship. The zydeco legend continues to carry forth the remarkable legacy of his father Clifton Chenier and the Red Hot Louisiana Band—who originally brought zydeco music to the mainstream.

The roots music group Smithfield Fair will receive their honor at downtown Alexandria’s ARTSWALK on October 17. Made up of brothers Dudley-Brian, Bob, and Joel Smith, with Jan Dedon Smith, the acoustic roots band has been writing music and performing since 1973. Drawing together influences from Louisiana’s folk, swing, pop, blues, gospel, jazz, and Cajun scenes, the group has just released their 36th album.

And finally, Geraldine Robertson will receive her flowers at this year’s Rougarou Fest on October 19 at 2 pm on the Woodside Energy Music Stage. Rob-

ertson is a master artisan in the craft of split oak basket weaving, a skill that was passed down through her family for generations.

Learn more about this year’s honorees at louisianafolklife.org.

—Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Quilt by Steven Garner, Vashon Kelly, Robert Matthews, Scott Meyers, Diego Zapata. Mixed media. Featured in the exhibition, Captive State: Louisiana and the Making of Mass Incarceration, upon which the HNOC’s new book by the same name is based. Image courtesy of the HNOC.

Monique Metrailer, a master of multiple traditional skills, will be honored as a Louisiana Tradition Bearer. Photo courtesy of Louisiana Folklife Program.

No Matter the Water

RACHEL NEDERVELD’S LATEST PROJECT DOCUMENTS STORIES OF ADAPTATION IN A CHANGING WORLD

Most people wouldn’t draw connections between the extreme hhski-mountaineer Kit DesLauriers and Louisianans living on disappearing ground. But after working as a producer on Beyond the Summit the documentary about how DesLauriers used her unique skillsets to fight for the protection of the mountains she cared about—Rachel Nederveld noticed a thread she followed all the way home.

“It got me thinking about how much ingenuity is found in Louisiana,” she said. “And how those specific skills are being used to adapt to where we are, and how we’re living as we face the challenges of our changing environment.”

Inspired, Nederveld set out to document, through the medium of oral storytelling, examples of individuals creatively paving the way to a sustainable future in Louisiana. The result is the five-episode podcast, No Matter the Water, which

Nederveld created with funding from the National Endowment for the Arts, South Arts, Acadiana Center for the Arts, the Louisiana Division of the Arts, Lafayette Economic Development Authority, the State of Louisiana, the Louisiana Endowment for the Humanities, and ArtSpark.

Over the course of the series, Nederveld travels across the state to meet with a teacher helping her students contemplate the realities of land loss in Ter-

rebonne Parish, a Baptist reverend in DeQuincy whose ministry focuses on disaster preparedness, a man who built a floating home north of the Morganza Spillway, a native gardener in Duson, and an artist from Saint Bernard Parish who is preparing an inland place of retreat for her community.

“What I really took away from these conversations,” said Nederveld, “was that community is how we’re going to solve the issues that are facing us down here, especially when it comes to the environment. It’s going to take everyone. How are we all together using our skills, our specialties, to figure out how we are going to continue to live here and protect our cultures and remain in places that are important to us, as much as we can?”

Louisiana is changing, she went on. It will never be the same as it once was. “We’ve said goodbye to a lot, and we’ll continue to say goodbye,” she said. “But we still have so much, and we’ll have a lot more if we work together.”

You can listen to No Matter the Water on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Amazon Music.

—Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

The home of “Buddy,” who is the subject of Episode 3 of No Matter the Water. In response to regular floods where Buddy lives north of the Morganza Spillway, he decided to build a house that can float with the regular rises and falls of the water. To the left is the house on dry land, to the right during flooding. Images courtesy of Rachael Nederveld.

WHETHER YOU LIVE FOR FALL FRIGHTS OR FESTIVALS, WE HAVE AUTUMNAL OUTINGS GALORE, FROM MUSIC AND ART TO TRICKS AND TREATS • OCTOBER 2025

SPOOKY SEASON

UNTIL NOV 1st

HAUNTED HIKES

FRIGHT TRAIL

Lafayette, Louisiana

The woods outside of Lafayette are full of things that go bump (and growl, and rawr) in the night. Are you brave enough to wander through them? Find out on the Fright Trail, founded by Literacy Inc., a nonprofit dedicated to fighting the growing illiteracy rate in America's teens. Inspired by the rugged terrain and its toptier scare potential, the creators pull out all the stops for this outdoor open house: props, animatronics, displays, sets, and scare actors galore. How long does it take? (Generally, thirty-five minutes.) How fast can you run? Due to the outdoor nature of the event, no open-toed shoes, high heels, or flip-flops; old shoes or boots are recommended. Not recommended for children under eight years of age, children under ten years of age must be accompanied by an adult. Friday and Saturday nights from 7 pm–11 pm. $30; $40 for Saturday Frights Without Lights. frighttrail.com. 1

UNTIL NOV 1st

EERIE EXPERIENCES

THE 13TH GATE

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

There's a reason Travel Channel called

the 13th Gate "One of America's scariest Halloween attractions." You'll likely agree with the experts as you make your way through thirteen different rooms, where a variety of your greatest fears will come to life and haunt you. From exploring an old, abandoned asylum, to being lost in dark underground tunnels or even finding yourself standing on a rickety bridge overlooking hundreds of live snakes, this 40,000 square foot haunted house is definitely not recommended for the faint of heart (nor is it recommended for anyone who is pregnant, has a preexisting heart condition, is very young, or has a weak bladder.) $41 ; $85 VIP. 6:30–11:30 pm. Details at 13thgate.com. 1

UNTIL NOV 8th

NIGHT FRIGHTS

NEW ORLEANS NIGHTMARE

New Orleans, Louisiana

New Orleans's largest indoor haunted house opens its doors—screams pouring out—for yet another year. Presented by the world's largest Halloween-inspired entertainment company, Thirteenth Floor Entertainment, the terrifying experience promises high-quality frights, as always. Visit neworleansnightmare.com for varying ticket prices and start times. 1

OCT

1st - OCT 5th

FALL FAVORITES

ST. TAMMANY PARISH FAIR

Covington, Louisiana

For over a century, the St. Tammany Parish Fair has showcased the culture, agriculture, music, and food of St. Tammany at the Parish Fairgrounds. Expect all of your small town fair staples: a midway, livestock presentations, exciting agricultural exhibitions; plus performances by local groups and musicians. Don't miss the parade, or the rodeo. $5; $3 children ages three to twelve; free for children younger than three. sttammanyparishfair.info.

OCT

2nd - OCT 4th

ART OUTSIDE

PAINT THE TOWN MISSISSIPPI

Ridgeland, Mississippi

Calling all artists who love to paint outside: This three-day event hosted by Mississippi Plein Air Painters across Canton, Ridgeland, Jackson, Flowood, Brandon, and Raymond features workshops, paint out locations, galleries, receptions, competitions, and a plein air event. Cash prizes available. Details at the Paint the Town Mississippi event Facebook page. 1

Attendees of Covington's Bluesberry Music + Art Festival enjoy an act while soaking up a shady fall day. Held at Downtown Covington’s riverside Bogue Falaya Park, the event—this year on October 4—showcases local and regional performers. Photo courtesy of the Bluesberry Festival, by August Layne Photography. Learn more on page 14.

Events

Beginning October 3rd - 4th

OCT 3rd

IF IT AIN'T BAROQUE... BACHTOBERFEST 2025

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Celebrate a delightful blend of Oktoberfest and the music of Johann Sebastian Bach with the aptly named Bachtoberfest, held at the Main Library at Goodwood. Returning for its ninth year, Bachtoberfest kicks off a celebration of Baroque music with beer, brats, and a family-friendly outdoor setting. 7:30 pm–9:30 pm. $40. brso.org. 1

OCT 3rd - OCT 4th

JAVA JOY

NOLA COFFEE FESTIVAL

Kenner, Louisiana

Coffee fanatics rejoice: the NOLA Coffee Festival is here to satisfy your caffeine cravings, all while showcasing the latest in coffee gear and tips to get the best cup of Joe. The two-day festival is split into an industry trade show on Friday and an all-out bonanza for coffee fans on Saturday. On Friday, exhibitors from around the world will share new coffee products and brewing techniques, while industry speakers will offer their insights throughout the day. Then, on Saturday, coffee connoisseurs will descend on the Pontchartrain Center in Kenner to sample different blends and take homebrewing classes, among other festivities. 9 am–4 pm. $20. (504) 813-4656. nolacoffeefestival.com. 1

OCT 3rd - OCT 4th

ACROSS THE POND

EURO FEST

Ridgeland, Mississippi

Hope for a sunny day and head to The Renaissance at Colony Park in Ridgeland for the eighteenth annual Euro Fest, featuring scores of classic cars and motorcycles. Awards are divided (mostly) by country, including German, Italian, and British cars, with partnering sponsorship awards also available. 9 am–4 pm. Free. euro-fest.net. 1

OCT

3rd - OCT 5th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

GRETNA HERITAGE FESTIVAL

Gretna, Louisiana

Gretna has deigned to celebrate its history not simply with dusty photographers and half-remembered tales, but also with an impressive line-up of internationally famous artists (who probably aren't all from Gretna, but we'll look the other way). This year's headliners include Sam Hunt, Collective Soul, Natasha

Bedingfield, Better Than Ezra, John Foster, and dozens more. Along with tunes, the festival, encompassing twentyfive city blocks, holds a massive food court featuring dozens of vendors, arts & crafts, rides, and games. Highlights include the Italian, Asian, and Margarita Villages, a Craft Beer tent and German Beer Garden, and a Kids' Corner. $45 Friday and Sunday; $55 Saturday; $100 for a weekend pass; and various packages to choose from. gretnafest.com. 1

OCT 4th

ARTS FOR EVERYONE

PERKINS ROWE ARTS FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Perkins Rowe once again presents its annual Arts Fest. The Baton Rouge Arts Market will bring with it fine arts from local, regional, and national artists. There will be live music performances by the Florida Street Blowhards and Louisiane Vintage Dancers, plus all retail stores and restaurants will be open during regular hours. Free. 10 am–5 pm. perkinsrowe.com. 1

OCT 4th

CLASSICS

BAYOU TECHE FEST

New Iberia, Louisiana

Head to Bayou Teche Fest for a great time with wooden boats and classic cars at Bouligny Plaza. Enjoy fare from food trucks and live entertainment. 9 am–1 pm. For details, contact events@cityofnewiberia.com. 1

OCT 4th

FALL FAVORITES

OLDE TOWNE

PUMPKIN FESTIVAL

Slidell, Louisiana

Face painting and pumpkins are the mark of any good fall gathering, and the Olde Towne Pumpkin Fest is no exception. At the First United Methodist Church, kids can carve and decorate a pumpkin, get their cheeks bedaubed, explore a fire truck and SWAT vehicle, or dig into a pile of hay. All proceeds will benefit East St. Tammany Rainbow Child Care Center. 11 am–4 pm. Free, with some ticketed events costing $1. visitthenorthshore.com. 1

OCT 4th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

LEBANESE FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

For the third year, St. Sharbel Maronite

Events

Beginning October 4th - 51h

Catholic Church of Baton Rouge will host a celebration of Lebanese culture in Baton Rouge, featuring savory and sweet Lebanese food, music, dancing, and other activities. This year's event will take place at the Goodwood Main Library from 11 am–8 pm. sharbel.org/festival. 1

OCT 4th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

CREOLE CULTURE DAY

Grand Coteau, Louisiana

For the fourth year, the organization Louisiana Creole Culture invites folks across Acadiana to celebrate the rich heritage of the region's robust Creole communities. The festival is designed as an accessible immersion into the world of traditional Creole life, starting with a live boucherie at 6 am, linguistic activities like Creole French Bingo, demonstrations of classic Creole crafts and dishes, line dancing lessons, and genealogy presentations—plus live music by Step Rideau, Mark Ardoin, The Broussard Sisters, and more. 10 am–4 pm at Town Hall Park in Grand Coteau. Free. creoleculture.com. 1

OCT 4th

FALL FAVORITES

DENHAM SPRINGS

FALL FESTIVAL

Denham Springs, Louisiana

Downtown Denham Springs is the scene for the annual Fall Festival, which fills the entire antique district with numerous activities for all ages. The family-friendly day includes vendors, artist demonstrations, military reenactments, food, and plenty of seasonal shopping in the town's Antique Village. Over 150 local and regional craftsmen will be displaying their wares, from antique treasures to your new favorite handmade bag. Don't miss the Arts Council of Livingston Parish's Arts Avenue along Mattie Avenue. For those who need a break from shopping, there will be live music, as well as free kids' activities. 9 am–4:30 pm. Free admission. denhamspringsantiquedistrict.net. 1

OCT 4th

SOUND ON BLUESBERRY FESTIVAL

Covington, Louisiana

Spend a day celebrating the blues at

the Bluesberry Music + Art Festival at Downtown Covington’s riverside Bogue Falaya Park. Headlined by Texas bluesrock singer/songwriter and guitarist Casey James, the festival will also showcase music from Jared Daws, JJ Muggler, and Julian Primeaux, as well as New Orleans blues band Kevin & The Blues Groovers, among others. The day will also involve art demonstrations, artists selling original work, an interactive painting experience, and a Children's Village. Food will be available from local eateries. 10 am–6:30 pm. $25 online; $30 at gate; Free for children ages 10 and under. thebluesberryfest.com. 1

OCT 4th

SPIRITED CHATS COCKTAILS AND CONVERSATION AT AFTON VILLA

Saint Francisville, Louisiana

Join members of the Trimble family after hours, to enjoy a Saturday afternoon garden party and and guided stroll through the historic grounds of Afton Villa. Attendees will enjoy a progressive garden tour, visiting four atmospheric locations to enjoy curated cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, and stories of the garden’s history told by St. Francisville historians and family members. Please wear your favorite garden party attire with

comfortable shoes suitable for walking. Complimentary parking is available on the grounds. 4 pm–6:30 pm at 9347 US Hwy 61. $75. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 4th - OCT 5th

FINGER LICKIN' GOOD NATIONAL FRIED CHICKEN FESTIVAL

New Orleans, Louisiana

If you saw "Fried Chicken Festival" and thought, "Oooh, I've got to check that out ..." you're not alone. Come to the New Orleans Lakefront at Franklin Avenue this weekend to celebrate the almighty fried bird. Favorite local restaurants like Bonafried and Bao Mi, plus others from across the country will be in attendance slinging their fried chicken delicacies and more—which will then be up for awards like "Best Fried Chicken" and "Best Use of Fried Chicken in a Dish." Plus, there will be live music, a vendor marketplace, and a family zone to entertain the whole family. 11 am–9 pm both days. $15 general admission; $25 for a weekend pass. friedchickenfestival.com. 1

OCT 4th - OCT 5th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

ROBERT'S COVE GERMANFEST

Rayne, Louisiana

Held on the grounds of St. Leo IV

The annual Shake Your Trail Feather Festival, this year held October 18, celebrates the Bayou Teche National Paddle Trail. For fourteen years, The TECHE Project has encouraged people to get out on the water and paddle a few miles to Parc des Ponts, where they are greeted with a party befitting the occasion.

Catholic Church, the Roberts Cove Germanfest offers live entertainment, authentic German food, a large selection of German beer on tap, folklore demonstrations, and a Kinderland (kiddie area)—just a few of the attractions scheduled for this year's festival. Don't forget to visit the quaint, diverting German Heritage Museum. For details, visit robertscovegermanfest.com. 1

OCT 4th - OCT 25th

GET LOST

CORN MAZE AT LSU AGCENTER BOTANIC GARDENS

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The LSU AgCenter Botanic Gardens at Burden invite parents to lose track of their little ones for just a bit while they let the kids try to find their way through the traditional fall corn maze (don't worry, the scarecrows have an eye out for 'em). On Corn Maze Saturdays, besides navigating the maze of maize, you can romp around a haystack mountain, pick a pumpkin, visit the petting zoo, or join the hayride around the property. Sessions from 9 am–11 am, noon–2 pm, and 2:30 pm–4:30 pm. Save a few tricks and treats for the Night Maze on October 25, 6 pm–9 pm. $19; $16 ages three to twelve; free for children two and under. lsuagcenter.com. 1

OCT

4th - OCT 31st

ART SHOWS INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION ON ANIMALS IN ART

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The LSU School of Veterinary Medicine has invited visual artists from across the globe to submit artworks celebrating animals, the best of which will be on display as part of the Vet School's annual Animals in Art exhibition. Of the 302

entries submitted by artists from across thirty states, plus Canada, Germany, Guatemala, and Turkey, sixty entries were selected for the exhibition across a variety of media. Judging this year's competition will be Callie Smith, Museum Educator and Public Programs Manager at the Louisiana State University Museum of Art. Artwork on display will also be for sale, with twenty percent commission on each piece going to benefit LSU Vet Med programs. An opening reception will be held on October 4 from 4:30 pm–6:30 pm in the LSU Vet Med Library. The exhibit will be open after that from 8 am–6 pm, seven days a week. lsu.edu/vetmed. 1

OCT 5th

SOMETHING SWEET SUGARFEST

Port Allen, Louisiana

The West Baton Rouge Museum returns with its annual SugarFest, a sweet celebration of the sugar cane harvest that has twice been named a Top Twenty Southeastern Tourism event. This is a full day of family-oriented activities, live music, and food. The celebration features attractions like a mule-driven cane grinder in action, praline making, blacksmithing, woodworking, and other historic craft demonstrations; Louisiana musicians perform New Orleans jazz, blues, folk, Cajun/zydeco, and Bluegrass; there are hands-on activities for the kiddos, art and sugar-related exhibits inside the museum, and fresh sugar cane to gnaw on. The sweets contest takes the flavor up a notch with homemade sugary cakes, candies, cookies, and cupcakes. Ever wanted to enter grandma's cake recipe in a good, old-fashioned sweets contest? Here's your chance. Oh, and—naturally—a rum tasting. 11 am–4 pm at the museum. Free. westbatonrougemuseum.com. 1

Photo courtesy of The TECHE Project. See more on page 26.

Events

Beginning October 5th - 111h

OCT

5th

TURN IT UP

FEDERALES FEST

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Gear up for fun times with Federales Fest 2025, filled with good food, live music, and more. Come by Live Oak @ Cedar Lodge to hear music from an all-star lineup, including Paul Cauthen, George Porter Jr. & the Runnin’ Pardners, Sam Morrow, Zach Edwards & The Medicine, and more. Part of all proceeds will benefit Be Positive, a nonprofit. Noon–11 pm. $75; $250 for VIP, which includes complimentary food and alcohol all day. federalesfest.com. 1

OCT

5th - OCT 26th

YEE-HAWS

ANGOLA PRISON RODEO

Angola, Louisiana

Every Sunday in October, the traffic backs up for miles through West Feliciana as thousands line up for "The Wildest Show in the South." The Angola Rodeo offers a slate of events that includes bull riding, bareback riding, a wild horse race, barrel racing, bull-dogging, wild cow milking (really), convict poker, rodeo clowns; and the final event of the day: the Guts and Glory Challenge, in which a poker chip is affixed to the forehead of the meanest, toughest Brahma bull available. The object for contestants is to get close enough to the bull to snatch the chip (and escape in one piece). The arts and crafts show, which features hundreds of items handmade by Louisiana State Penitentiary inmates, is almost as popular. Gates open at 8 am for the arts and crafts show. Rodeo starts at 2 pm. Lines are long; arrive early. At the Louisiana State Penitentiary, at the end of Hwy 66, deep in West Feliciana Parish. Proceeds promote faith-based initiatives at the prison. $20. angolarodeo.com. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 9th - OCT 11th

CULTURAL CELEBRATIONS

ZWOLLE TAMALE FIESTA

Zwolle, Louisiana

The weekend fun begins here with simply saying the event's name out loud: Zwolle. Tamale. See? You're enjoying yourself already, and there's way more where that came from. For three days, the Zwolle Tamale Fiesta celebrates the Spanish and Native American heritage of the town's

residents with arts & crafts, dancing, a car show, a trail ride, children's activities, parades, and—oh, yes—tamales. Tons and tons of tamales. Cultures collide in an effort to cook up the most delicious tamale—whether you're competing or simply eating, everyone wins. Visit zwolletamalefiesta.com for a full schedule and directions to the Zwolle Fairgrounds. 1

OCT 10th - OCT 11th

SEASONAL CELEBRATIONS

ABITA FALL FEST

Abita Springs, Louisiana

Abita Springs brings in the season with its annual fall festival, featuring four stages, with a lineup that includes Carson Station, Doussan Garrett Benoit, Anders Osborne, Johnny Sketch & The Dirty Notes, The Iguanas, Amanda Shaw & The Cute Guys, Logan Michael, and so many more. There will also be food and drink vendors, a Kid's Zone; a "Pumpkin Stage" featuring a magic show, princess party, and juggler; a tailgate, green screen photo station, wine garden, and an arts and crafts market. $25 for Saturday-only tickets, $35 at the gate; $15 for kids ages 3–10, $20 at the gate; After Dark Friday night pass (5 pm–10 pm) is $20, $25 at the gate. Weekend pass is $40. VIP (Saturday) is $90 in advance, $100 at the gate. abitafallfest.com. 1

OCT 10th - OCT 12th

FAIS DO-DOS

FESTIVALS

ACADIENS ET CRÉOLES

Lafayette, Louisiana

Festivals Acadiens et Créoles is returning to Girard Park to pay tribute to the music, food, and arts passed down since the arrival of the Acadian pioneers 250 years ago. Non-stop cultural immersion includes the Bayou Food Festival, Louisiana Crafts Fair, workshops, cooking demonstrations, the Tour des Atakapas 5k, 10k, or duathlon, and a French Mass. There will also be multiple stages of live music. Throughout the weekend expect performances by the likes of Balfa Toujours, CJ Chenier & the Red Hot Louisiana Band, The Revelers, Corey Ledet Zydeco, Amis du Teche, the Holiday Playgirls, and many, many more. 5 pm–9 pm Friday, 10:30 am–7:45 pm Saturday, 10:30 am–7:45 pm Sunday. Free. festivalsacadiens.com. 1

OCT 10th - OCT 12th

TURN IT UP

CRESCENT CITY BLUES & BBQ FESTIVAL

New Orleans, Louisiana

Powered by the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Foundation, the Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival celebrates Southern soul with legendary local and international blues and R&B talent, plus the greatest assemblage of homestyle barbecue to be found within the city limits. Come for performances by Sierra Green & the Giants, Tab Benoit, Pennsylvania Wolfe Johns, Mem Shannon & the Membership, Ed Wills & Blues 4 $ale, Leo Nocentelli of the Meters, Eric Johanson, Jontavious Willis, Carolyn Wonderland, Tyron Benoit Band, Joy Clark, Little Freddie King, and many, many more. What's even more ridiculous than getting all these folks in one place is that it's free to watch. At Lafayette Square Park. 5:30 pm–8:30 pm Friday; 11 am–8:30 pm Saturday and Sunday. crescentcitybluesfest.com. 1

OCT 10th - OCT 31st

EERIE EXPERIENCES

FRIGHTMARE ON MAIN STREET

New Iberia, Louisiana

New Iberia's downtown gets a creepy takeover in time for Halloween—each weekend in October leading up to the big day, the Historic Hot Sauce House on Main Street provides a spooky backdrop for a trail of frights, where sets and live scare actors await. 7:30 pm–11 pm the last four Fridays and the last three Saturdays in October— plus the first Saturday of November. The Hot Sauce House on Main, 924 E. Main St., New Iberia. $25; $55 VIP. frightmareonmainstreet.com. 1

OCT 11th

CLASSICS

LOUISIANA ART AND FOLK FESTIVAL Columbia, Louisiana

Back for its 68th year, the Louisiana Art and Folk Festival—the longestrunning art festival in the state (a proud tradition in itself)—welcomes anyone and everyone to experience the wonders of regional art, along with the usual tried and true trappings of a good Louisiana festival: a car show, a petting zoo, folklife demonstrations, live music, amazing food, and so much more on historic Columbia's Main Street. 10 am–4 pm. Free. Details at the Louisiana Art and Folk Festival Facebook Page. 1

OCT 11th

FALL FAVORITES

SHADOWS ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR

New Iberia, Louisiana

Among the giant oaks on the winding banks of the Teche, attendees at this twice-annual arts & crafts fair can pick up one-of-a-kind treasures from over one hundred vendors from around the state. From crocheted items to bath products and tea-dyed chenille bunnies, this market has it all. And of course—for what fair would be complete without it—there will be plenty of food, drink, and dessert. 9 am–4 pm. $5; Free for children ages twelve and younger. shadowsontheteche.org. 1

OCT 11th

ALL THINGS ANIMALS WILD THINGS FESTIVAL

Lacombe, Louisiana

Wild enough at any time of year, the 110-acre Bayou Lacombe Center in Lacombe becomes particularly so each October, when the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and The Friends of Louisiana Wildlife Refuges present the annual Wild Things festival. Dozens of guest organizations and individuals come to share nature and conservationthemed displays, presentations and hands-on activities in celebration of National Wildlife Refuge Week. Children can learn how to canoe, see live animals, fish for prizes in the casting pond, take a pontoon boat ride of the bayou, enjoy a variety of exhibits and hands on activities, see Louisiana native animals, and more. The whole idea is to provide opportunities for guests to connect with nature, wildlife, and the things that make South Louisiana special. 10 am–4 pm at the Bayou Lacombe Center, which is the headquarters of the Southeast Louisiana Refuge Complex. 10 am–4 pm. Free. visitthenorthshore.com. 1

OCT 11th

AUTUMNAL AFFAIRS FALL FOR ART

Covington, Louisiana

Welcome the start of autumn with the annual Fall for Art celebration in historic downtown Covington. The event features music (this year's lineup includes Soul Tribe and Cameron Hartill), performing arts, and a sprawling art market along Columbia Street sure to delight. Expect thousands of attendees eager to enjoy the arts extravaganza produced by the St. Tammany Art Association. 6 pm–9 pm. Free. sttammany.art. 1

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October 11th - 17th

OCT 11th

HALF-FULL

ROUGE ET BLANC WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL

Lake Charles, Louisiana

Celebrate food and wine at Rouge et Blanc, a fundraiser for the Banners arts and cultural program that serves Southwest Louisiana. Hobnob with wine experts and renowned chefs, enjoy wine dinners, and engage in interesting and educational seminars. 4 pm. Red Tickets $135; other pricing available for different ticket levels. banners.org/rouge-et-blanc. 1

OCT

11th

SINISTER STROLLS

SHREVEPORT-BOSSIER

CITY ZOMBIE WALK

Bossier City, Louisiana

Get ghouled up and ready to prowl for brains (but for a good cause!) at the Bossier Arts Council's annual Halloween Festival, this year with the theme "Bone Bash." Expect a macabre vendor market, creative costume contests, door prizes, live music, games, food trucks, and much more. Proceeds will go to support

the Food Bank of Northwest Louisiana. LifeShare Blood Center will also be on site taking blood donations. 4 pm–9 pm in East Bank Plaza. Details on the SBC Zombie Walk Facebook Event. 1

OCT

11th - OCT 12th

GOOD EATS

WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP

GUMBO COOKOFF

New Iberia, Louisiana

Can anyone's gumbo be better than ya mama's? A few upstarts in Iberia

Parish may think so at this annual World Championship Gumbo Cookoff, held in Bouligny Plaza. The Greater Iberia Chamber of Commerce will host the festivities, which will feature music, family fun, and plenty of food. Saturday will be the Cajun Creole Food Fest, and the Youth Gumbo Cookout.

Sunday is the big day of the "Battle of the Rouxs," where over seventyfive teams will compete for the honor of World's Best Gumbo. Throughout Saturday and Sunday, local acts such as Swampland Revival, The Bad Boys, and Sideshow, among others, will provide

live entertainment to complement your appetite. 10 am–7 pm Saturday; 11 am–3:30 pm Sunday. Free. iberiachamber.org/gumbocookoff. 1

OCT

11th - OCT 19th

HAUNTINGS & HISTORY

ST. LANDRY CEMETERY TOURS & HISTORICAL REENACTMENTS

Opelousas, Louisiana

Watch the spirits of St. Landry come alive and tell their stories, all while learning history in a fun, spooktacular way at the St. Landry Catholic Church cemetery. Joining the "spirited" celebration will be a variety of historical characters relating to the area, including Napoleonic General Garrigues de Flaugeac and Louisiana Governor Jacques Dupré. Several other spirits will also be brought to life for patrons to enjoy their legends. All proceeds will help to fund the Cemetery Historical Restoration Project, which takes special efforts to restore local gravesites. Saturday tours take place at 6 pm, 6:30 pm, 7 pm, and 7:30 pm, Sunday tours take place at 2 pm and 3 pm. Handicapped accessible tours will be available. Comfortable shoes are advised. These tours are not suitable for children under ten years of age. $10. (337) 942-6552. 1

OCT 12th

BOTTOMS UP

NORTHSHORE BEER FESTIVAL

Mandeville, Louisiana

Crack open a cold one at the Mandeville Trailhead Amphitheater this October for the annual celebration of all things beer. Featuring seventeen breweries and six food vendors, the festival provides ample opportunity to relax, soak up the fall weather, and enjoy live music all day long. The event's proceeds benefit the Miracle League Northshore, a local nonprofit promoting the health and well-being of children with disabilities. 10 am–3 pm. $60; $10 for designated drivers; $100 VIP, $30 VIP designated drivers; $200 Ultimate VIP, which makes you an event judge. visitthenorthshore.com. 1

OCT 15th - OCT 19th

ARTS FOR EVERYONE PRIZE FEST

Shreveport, Louisiana

One of Shreveport's biggest festivals has everything, from film and food, to music and comedy, with the thrilling chance to win cash prizes and awards. Prize Fest, a five-day extravaganza, showcases artists' work and lets you vote for your favorites. Be sure to drop in on industry panel discussions, after parties, live music, and

The Baton Rouge Zoo's annual fall event, Boo at the Zoo, is a family tradition, this year held on October 18 from noon–5 pm. Your little beast can costume up and take photos in the Pumpkin Patch and other fall tableaux, meet animals, and enjoy other entertainment. Regular zoo admissions apply. Visit brzoo.org for details. Photo courtesy of BREC.

a red carpet event. Full schedule and ticketing information at prizefest.com. 1

OCT 16th - OCT 19th

GOOD EATS

INTERNATIONAL RICE FESTIVAL

Crowley, Louisiana

Where would jambalaya, etouffée, and gumbo be without this all-powerful ingredient? Rice is essential to dishes the world over, so head to Crowley to pay homage to the tiny grain that gets around. Festival-goers are treated to rice cooking and eating contests, the Grand Parade, arts & crafts, fiddling competitions, a frog derby, a rice poker run, a classic car show, and more over the course of this huge happening. The live music lineup includes local and national favorites like Dustin Sonnier, Wayne Toups, Swampland Revival, and Bag of Donuts. Music, parking, and entry to the festival are free; but the carnival will cost you. All details can be found at ricefestival.com. 1

OCT 16th - OCT 19th

SPOOKY SPECTACULAR

FIFOLET HALLOWEEN FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The capital area's favorite Halloweenmongers, 10/31 Consortium, are back— returning with a slate of hilarious and haunting events. Kick things off with a streak of dastardly do-gooding, by donating gently used Halloween costumes and (store-bought, individually-wrapped) candy to ensure that all of the little monsters can have their day on the streets. The Fifolet Costume and Candy Drive will be held from September 1–October 10 at locations all over Greater Baton Rouge. The hallowed weekend itself brings its own set of festivities, starting with the Fifolet Hallween Festival Pub Crawl on October 16, a "zombie horde in search of booze and brains." Shuffle along to the bars on 3rd Street in Downtown Baton Rouge, souvenir cup in hand.

Participants will receive special drink discounts, and plenty of opportunities to win prizes along the way. Free zombie makeup will be provided on a first-come, first-serve basis one hour before the crawl. 6 pm. $45. The Fifolet Hallween Ball—a full-on Monster Mash—takes place on October 17 at the Lod Cook LSU Alumni Center. Live music will be provided by Petty Betty. Costumes, of course, encouraged. 8 pm. $60 for individual seating. Saturday, October 18, brings the height of the celebrations—starting with a 5K (hope you didn't drink too much of the previous night's potions). Run it in a costume, or while carrying a pumpkin. 10 am. $40 for the 5K; $50 for the pumpkin run; $20 for the Lil' Pumpkins 1-Mile Fun Run. Starts at Riverfront Plaza—where the Arts Market will be well underway, offering plenty of artisan wares and live entertainment for the whole family. Plus, a pumpkin pie eating contest and a pumpkin carving contest. All will conclude with the annual Halloween Parade, featuring local krewes and businesses showcasing their weirdest ideas, and bestowing treats upon all. Starts at 4 pm in downtown Baton Rouge. Get all the details, and information about all access passes ($300) at 1031consortium.com. 1

OCT 17th

BLOOMERS

ST. TAMMANY MASTER

GARDENERS FALL SEMINAR

Mandeville, Louisiana

Improve your gardening skills this fall at the the annual St. Tammany Master Gardener Association seminar at Mandeville's Church of the King. This year's speakers include celebrated floral designer Laura Dowling on “The Art of Holiday Design,” and renowned horticulturalist John Coykendall on "Seed Saving and Preserving One Seed at a

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October 17th

Time." Guests will also have the chance to shop a special plant boutique. Ticket includes a gourmet lunch. 8 am–2:30 pm. $60. stmastergardener.org. 1

OCT 17th - OCT 18th

GREEN THUMBS

2025 SOUTHERN GARDEN SYMPOSIUM

Saint Francisville, Louisiana

It's a Southern gardening event that attracts the biggest names in the region: The 2025 Southern Garden Symposium, held in St. Francisville, offers something for every gardener, from experienced masters to budding beginners. Set against the backdrop of gardens at Rosedown State Historic Site, Oakley at Audubon State Historic Site, Afton Villa Gardens, and Havenwood, the symposium features a slate of powerhouse speakers, from designers and landscapers to authors and flower farmers. $325 for an all-inclusive ticket; $115 for Friday and Saturday workshops, separately; $95 for the speakers' gala. A full schedule and details can be found at thesoutherngardensymposium.org. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 17th - OCT 19th

SOUND ON NOLA FUNK FEST

New Orleans, Louisiana

Spanish Plaza hosts one of the most soulful and upbeat musical celebrations in a city known for its powerhouse music festivals. Over three days, NOLA Funk Fest keeps the city bumping with sets by dozens of New Orleans's funkiest artists, plus delicious food and available beverages. Headlining musical acts this year include Master P Feat. The Soul Rebels, Dumpstaphunk: Dumpsta Plays Sly, Cyril Neville Celebrates The Wild Tchoupitoulas, Funky Meters 2.0, Galactic Feat. Irma, Jelly, Erica, Maggie, Tony Hall & N.O. Soul Stars: James Brown Tribute, and many, many more. $136 for a three-day pass in advance. A full schedule and VIP options at nolafunkfest.com. 1

OCT

17th - OCT 19th

UP IN THE AIR NATCHEZ BALLOON FESTIVAL

Natchez, Mississippi

The city of Natchez makes a picturesque historic backdrop for balloonatics from

all around the country during the annual hot-air balloon festival, when balloonists will fly above the high bluffs and Mississippi River. The Balloon Glow and fireworks show are always well-received, as is a lineup of bands that this year includes the Velcro Pygmies, Candace Bush Band, Laine Hardy, Vasti Jackson, Mother's Finest, the Vagabonds, the Kudzu Kings, and Galactic. The image of hot air balloons suspended above the Mississippi River, when viewed from the two-hundred-foot river bluffs, is one not soon forgotten. The festival also includes a Sports Tent showing all the weekend's big games on big-screen TVs. Children's activities, carnival rides, and a variety of regional foods are always around. $45 weekend pass for adults, or $20 on Friday, $35 Saturday if purchased in advance. Children ages ten and younger are free. The festival kicks off at 4 pm Friday, with an 11 am start on Saturday and Sunday, all on the grounds of Rosalie Mansion. natchezballoonfestival.com. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 17th - OCT 19th

EERIE EXPERIENCES

ROUGAROU FEST

Houma, Louisiana

Who are we to say that the fabled rougarou (known in other parts of Louisiana as the loup-garou) is imaginary?

Thousands of wide-eyed Cajun youngsters would tell us otherwise, convinced of its existence by parents who commanded obedience by threatening a visit from this shape-shifting creature. This festival in downtown Houma revels in the thrill of this folktale's terror, while remaining family-friendly. A creepier take on a traditional Louisiana festival, Rougarou Fest still revels in the crucial components of food and music; but organizers have upped the ante with a costume contest, a spirited parade, a scary scavenger hunt, and carnival rides. Take part in a howling contest, a pumpkin lighting, a nutria pardoning, a Day of the Dead celebration, and more. And there's no skimping on the food: jambalaya, blackberry dumplings, and beignets are among the menu selections, so come hungry. At 86 Valhi Blvd. near the Houma-Terrebonne Civic Center. Free. 5 pm–10 pm Friday; 10 am–10 pm Saturday; 10 am–5 pm Sunday. rougaroufest.org. 1

OCT 17th - OCT 19th

FALL FAVORITES

NEW ORLEANS

BOO AT THE ZOO

New Orleans, Louisiana

Bring your tiny ghosts and goblins to the land of beasts for the Audubon Nature Institute's annual Boo at the Zoo event. There are plenty of thrills and treats to be

Events

Beginning October 17th - 18th

Don your glitziest flapper attire and step into the Prohibition-Era glamour of the 1920s—all in celebration and support of the Louisiana Art & Science Museum at this year's gala: "Puttin' on the Ritz: A Centennial Celebration," held October 10 from 7 pm–11 pm. The dazzling night includes DJ Digital, a grand raffle by Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry, a curated silent auction, and various bars and food stations. Tickets begin at $150 and can be purchased on bontempstix.com. Photo from last year's celebration courtesy of LASM, by Collin Richie Photography.

had for the fright-finders and weenies— cough, I mean the more sensitive attendees—alike. Trick-or-treating, pumpkin enrichment, scary and nonscary walks through a haunted house, and—of course, zoo animals. 10 am–5 pm. $38. audubonnatureinstitute.org. 1

OCT 17th - OCT 19th

UP IN THE AIR BOUCHERIE & BALLOON FESTIVAL

Sorrento, Louisiana

It's a whole-hog, hot air kinda weekend when the Sorrento Lions Club brings the Boucherie Festival to the Ascension Hot Air Balloon Festival. If pigs were ever going to fly, it'll happen here. You'll wanna do a little advance fasting, as the menu includes jambalaya, hogshead cheese, cracklins, boudin and boudin balls, roast pork, and chicken and andouille gumbo—and those balloons can only carry so much weight. The combined event will be held at 9690 Airline Highway in Sorrento, featuring all the traditional trappings of the Boucherie Fest: cracklin' and jambalaya cook-offs, pig roasting, and all things pork—only now is the added magic of hot air balloon glows, live entertainment, fireworks, carnival rides, and more. 4:30 pm–11 pm Friday; noon–11 pm Saturday; noon–6 pm Sunday. Admission by donation. boucheriefestival.com. 1

OCT 18th

SPOOKY CELEBRATIONS NIGHTMARE ON COLUMBIA

Covington, Louisiana

The spooks and the hallows are set to be unleashed down Columbia Street

for the annual Nightmare on Columbia Stroll, costume contest, and concert. Revel in the spooky glory of Downtown Covington gone gory, featuring craft cocktails and beers. Proceeds will benefit the Covington Three Rivers Art Festival. The evening will conclude with a costume contest and DJ at the Trailhead at 8 pm–10 pm; Stroll from 5 pm–7:30 pm. $45. nightmareoncolumbia.org. 1

OCT 18th

TURN IT UP

ACADIA MUSIC FEST

Thibodaux, Louisiana

National musicians join more familiar names on the same stage for Thibodaux's Acadia Music Fest. An arts market and Southern food court round out this music festival in the heart of bayou country, with a lineup that includes: T.I., John Morgan, The Allman Betts Band, and many more. All profits will benefit the Ben Meyer Foundation to help charities in the community. At Outdoor tract at the corner of Hwy. 648 & Rue Madeline. Noon–11:30 pm. $70. acadiamusicfest.net. 1

OCT 18th

FIT & FUN

RIVER ROUX

OLYMPIC TRIATHLON

New Roads, Louisiana

Put on your running shoes and grab some goggles for the River Roux Olympic Triathlon in New Roads. The triathlon includes a 1.5K swim, 40K bike ride, and a 10K run, as well as aquabike, duathlon, and relay divisions. Sign up supports RKF, a non-profit that works to sustain healthy and active families

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Beginning October 18th

and communities by fighting childhood obesity. 7:30 am–noon. Sign up information at the River Roux Olympic Triathlon Facebook page. 1

OCT 18th

SPOOKY CELEBRATIONS

BOO BAYOU FALL FEST

Lafayette, Louisiana

Vermilionville gets a bit creepier in time for Halloween—but not too creepy, as their Boo Bayou Fall Festival is plenty of fun for the whole family. The day of Halloween fun will include a coloring station, old-time games, balloon animals, fall movies, trick-or-treating throughout the historic village, chances for kids to decorate their own Halloween treats and make their own Halloween crafts, and plenty of photo opportunities at the Fall Photo Station. Costumes are encouraged with candy incentives, we hear. 10 am–3 pm. $5 for those over the age of two. Find the event on Facebook for more information. 1

OCT

18th

BEHIND THE SCENES

BATON ROUGE

MAKER FAIRE

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The East Baton Rouge Parish Library is inviting high and low-tech “makers” to its eleventh annual Maker Faire, where the "how to" of everything is explored by crafters, quilters, engineers, and more. The year's theme is "Lights, Camera, Make!"—a celebration of the artistry involved in filmmaking. Expect live stunt demonstrations, an animatronics seminar, local filmmaker panelists, green screen and costume activities, a writers room simulation, and more. The event's highlight will be a live film score performed by BreadstickSpace Opera with Foley sound effects by Clay Achee and company, set to a classic Buster Keaton shortfilm. 10 am–4 pm at the Main Library, 7711 Goodwood Boulevard. Free. batonrouge.makerfaire.com. 1

OCT 18th

GOOD EATS

HOT & SPICY CHILI COOK-OFF

Denham Springs, Louisiana

Spice up your Saturday at the Denham Springs Main Street Chili Cook-Off. Taste delicious chili, shop local vendors, and support the preservation of the city's historic Antique Village. Don’t miss this family-friendly day of fun, flavor, and community spirit! 10 am. Wristbands will be sold for attendees to taste the chili;

extra tickets to vote on a people's choice award may be purchased or earned by shopping in the local Antique District shops. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 18th

FALL FAVORITES

MONSTER MASH FUN

FALL FAMILY FESTIVAL

Covington, Louisiana

The Monster Mash Fun Fall Family Festival—can you say that three times fast?—sends a seasonal gust of ghoulishness and good times through Bogue Falaya Park. An annual fundraiser for the St. Tammany Hospital Parenting Center, touted as a safer option to the usual end-of-month capers, features a Trick-or-Treat Village, arts & crafts, carnival rides, and food and beverages for purchase. Enhance your trick-or-treating experience as a VIP at the Pumpkins and Potions Pavilion, featuring a photo booth, full-face painting, and a special gift. Costumes highly recommended. 10 am– 2 pm. $5 for adults; $15 for children in advance; $20 at the gate. sthfoundation.org. 1

OCT 18th

BEER BASH

GULF BREW

Lafayette, Louisiana

Gulf Brew is back with over two hundred Louisiana breweries and brewpubs to showcase their newest craft beers, along with live music stages, craft booths, and more coming together for the outdoor festival along Jefferson Street in downtown Lafayette. Organized by the Acadiana Center for the Arts, Gulf Brew is a fundraiser for the exhibitions, performances, and art education initiatives in public schools that the ACA holds year-round, making it not only a time to explore the different beers Louisiana has to offer, but also a way to give back to a good cause. 1 pm–5 pm. General admission $40; VIP $100; Designated Driver $25. acadianacenterforthearts.org. 1

OCT 18th

MAKE IT NEAT

LOUISIANA BOURBON FESTIVAL Baton Rouge, Louisiana

It's another year of celebrating local bourbon culture while supporting community causes. The Bourbon Society of Baton Rouge returns with its premiere event, The Louisiana Bourbon Fest. Guests will get the opportunity to learn from leading authorities in

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October 18th - 17th

the whiskey industries at educational seminars, and sip on craft bourbons from over thirty distilleries from around the country at a grand tasting. Ages 21 and up only. 11 am–10 pm. $50 for designated drivers, $100 tasting tickets, $150 all-day seminar and tasting tickets, $200 VIP tasting and dinner tickets. louisianabourbonfest.com. 1

OCT 18th

BEERS & BRATS

NORTHSHORE OKTOBERFEST

Covington, Louisiana

The German Oom-pah comes to the Covington Trailhead for the Northshore Oktoberfest celebration. Let the little ones face paint and chicken dance the day away while the grown ups compete in Hammerschlagen and Masskrugstammen. Oh, and drink lots of beer in the beer garden. The event will benefit the A Rhea of Hope, a 501(c)3 charity founded by Heidi Rhea, a resource in research, education, and public awareness for Bile Duct Cancer. 4 pm–9 pm at the Covington trailhead. Find the event on Facebook for more ticketing and information. 1

OCT 18th

FLOATS

SHAKE YOUR TRAIL

FEATHER PADDLE PARADE

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

The TECHE Project returns to the water, paddle in hand, with the fourteenth annual Shake Your Trail Feather Festival, celebrating the Bayou Teche National Paddle Trail. The day will include a Paddle Parade down Bayou Teche, featuring live music by local Cajun musicians playing on decorated barges. Participants take part in the 4.5 mile (2 hour) paddle to Parc des Ponts. There will be a pre-paddle shuttle ($5 cash at the bus) from each location (leaving from Parc des Ponts at 9 am). Land at Parc des Pont and celebrate with live musical entertainment by Amis du Teche, food, and libations. Parade starts at 10 am behind Poche's Meat Market; party from noon–2 pm. Non-motorized boat rentals are available at Bayou Teche Experience, Pack and Paddle, or The Backpacker (with a two week advance notice). Registration for the event is $30; free for children. techeproject.org. 1

OCT 18th

FALL FAVORITES

A MERRY NOT

SCARY HALLOWEEN

Port Allen, Louisiana

This Halloween-inspired evening at the West Baton Rouge Museum is quite merry, and not so scary, so the whole family can enjoy. Expect seasonal activities, a costume contest, crafts and treats, a Halloween dance, and two percussionist shows. Bring blankets and lawn chairs. 5:30 pm–7:30 pm. Free. westbatonrougemuseum.org. 1

OCT 18th - OCT 19th

FLOATS

WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL

Madisonville, Louisiana

From pirogues to classic Chris-Crafts, there's just something so appealing about wooden boats. And in Louisiana, there's no place they look better en masse than abroad on the placid waters of the Tchefuncte River. As the major fundraiser for the Lake Pontchartrain Basin Maritime Museum, the Wooden Boat Festival in Madisonville attracts gorgeous examples; just ask one of the thousands of attendees who've been flocking to this celebration for a quarter century. In addition to upwards of one hundred boats—from pirogues to

seventy-five-foot cruisers and trawlers— the fest features a main stage with live bands throughout Saturday and Sunday. Don't miss the return of the Quick 'n Dirty Boat Building Contest and Parade. Gates open at 8 am on Saturday and Sunday, with entertainment till dusk, all along the banks of the Tchefuncte River in Madisonville. $15. maritimemuseumlouisiana.org. 1

OCT 23rd

BROOMSTICKS

THE WITCHES RIDE OF ST. FRANCISVILLE 2025

Saint Francisville, Louisiana

Witches will race through the streets of historic downtown St. Francisville on this evening, but fear not: it's just friends and neighbors wearing their witchiest costumes, participating in this fun, seasonal, charity bike ride event. Proceeds will benefit The Purple House Foundation, which seeks to establish and maintain a safe house for women and children escaping domestic violence. Put on your pointiest hat and check in at Parker Park from 3:30 pm–5 pm. The ride begins at 5:15 pm. Stop at The Mallory, 5747 Commerce Street, at 7:30 pm–10 pm for the after party. $60. witchesridesf.com. 1

OCT

23rd - OCT 27th

THE BIG SCREEN

NEW ORLEANS FILM FESTIVAL

New Orleans, Louisiana

The New Orleans Film Festival returns to venues across the Crescent City with over 130 films, ready to celebrate the work of emerging and established filmmakers from as near as down the street and as far as across the ocean. In-person screenings will take place from October 23–27, and a majority of the lineup will also be available via the NOFF Virtual Cinema through November 2. $90 for a six film pass (in-person or virtual); $115 for an entirely virtual pass; $75 for students and teachers; $350 for all access pass with entry into all in-person screenings, festival parties, the VIP lounge, and access to all virtual screenings. Find the complete schedule of screenings and workshops at neworleansfilmsociety.org. 1

OCT

23rd - NOV 2nd CARNIVALS

THE GREATER BATON ROUGE STATE FAIR

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Baton Rouge State Fair pulls out all the stops each year with rides galore in the carnival midway and live music almost every night. Clowns and magicians amble about while fair-goers feed on delicious fair food. Plus there's mutton bustin',

lawn-tractor pulls, pig races, and an exotic animal petting zoo. Junior beef, dairy, and goat shows also add to the agricultural theme. It's a Baton Rouge tradition, this year at the Airline Highway Park and Fairgrounds at 16072 Airline Highway. 5 pm–10 pm Mondays–Fridays; noon–10 pm Saturdays & Sundays. $15 for weekends; prices vary during the week. gbrsf.com. 1

OCT 24th

SINISTER STROLLS

OLDE TOWNE

SLIDELL ZOMBIE CRAWL

Slidell, Louisiana

Olde Towne goes Halloweentown for this festive fall fête—featuring face painting, a designated "lil monsters" area, a DJ, spooky cocktails and mocktails, plus local artists and crafters all along four blocks of downtown Slidell. 5 pm–10 pm. Free. Visit Olde Towne Slidell's Facebook page for details. 1

OCT 24th - OCT 25th

FAIS DO-DOS

BLACKPOT FESTIVAL AND COOK-OFF

Lafayette, Louisiana

This unique festival celebrates its nineteenth year with a weekend full of music, dancing, and food at

Vermilionville. It's a cooperative of South Louisiana musicians, artists, and roots enthusiasts who'll be joined by groups from other parts of the country, too. And all weekend long, competitors will get down and dirty for the title of champion in categories: gumbo, gravy, cracklin', jambalaya, and dessert. Kicks off 6 pm Friday night. Overnight camping is encouraged, so dust off that tent and get back to your roots (or if you prefer to sleep above the roots, bring your RV). Weekend rate, which includes camping, is $70; $35 Friday, no camping; $45 Saturday, no camping. Details at blackpotfestival.com. 1

Read more about Blackpot Festival from Christie Matherne Hall on page 62.

OCT 24th - OCT 26th

FUN-DRAISERS

THE FESTIVAL OF THE LAKE

Mandeville, Louisiana

Three days of community celebration and fundraising return to Our Lady of the Lake Catholic Church this fall, featuring a slate of fun family games and magic shows—not to mention a fantastic slate of live local performances. Local vendors will be ready to dole out delicacies like chargrilled oysters, smoked brisket, and the obligatory cotton candy, and artisans

will be peddling unique wares across the grounds. 5 pm–10 pm Friday; 11 am–10 pm Saturday; 12 pm–6 pm Sunday. Free. festivalofthelake.com. 1

OCT

24th - OCT 26th

HERITAGE & HISTORY

INTERNATIONAL

ACADIAN FESTIVAL

Plaquemine, Louisiana

To honor the Acadian roots shared by so many area residents, Iberville Parish holds a Water Ceremony every year, a re-enactment of Longfellow’s poem in which Acadian exile Emmeline LaBiche (Evangeline) travels down Bayou Plaquemine on her journey to the Teche Country in search of her lover, Louis Arceneaux (Gabriel). As the story goes, she and her Native American guide spent the night on the banks of the bayou in what is now the City of Plaquemine. In the present-day ceremony, the Indian princesses and Evangeline (queen of the festival) arrive to greet the crowd at the Waterfront Park by fire-lit pirogues. All this, plus the typical festival fare: rides, games, music, Cajun food, 4-H booths, arts & crafts, cornhole tournament, and the International Acadian Festival Parade at 10:30 am on Sunday. Kicks off on Friday at 4 pm with a Blessing of the Grounds, with music into the night. $26 at the gate. acadianfestival.org. 1

You’re free to live your life out loud! Because you’ve got the compassion of the cross, the security of the shield, and the comfort of Blue behind you.

Events

Beginning October 25th

The first 2025-2026 performance by the Baton Rouge Ballet Theatre, LAGNIAPPE is poised to fill the stage with whirls of tulle as dancers perform both ballet classics and new contemporary works choreographed by Joan Rodriguez Hernandez of BODYTRAFFIC and Shannon Greyson, Baton Rouge native and instructor at USC’s Glorya Kaufman School of Dance in Los Angeles. For one night only, the performance will be held October 2 at 7 pm at the Baton Rouge Magnet High School Auditorium. Learn more at batonrougeballet.org. Photo courtesy of BRBT, by Sharen Bradford.

OCT 25th

ITCHES

LOUISIANA

MOSQUITO FESTIVAL

Cankton, Louisiana

As they say, in Louisiana we've got a festival for everything—even things that make our skin crawl (or itch, or break out in hives). Yes, if you can believe it, someone felt it was high time we honor Louisiana's unofficial state bird—the ubiquitous mosquito—at this inaugural festival. Pack some bug spray and journey to Landon Pitre Memorial Park in the Village of Cankton (population just south of five hundred) to catch local music, a cook-off, blood drive, silent auction, plenty of vendors, and children's activities such as buzz competitions and mosquito wrangling. The festival's lineup includes Richard LeBeouf, Rory Suire & Closing Time, Caramel Cowboy Raikwon Green, and more. Free. louisianamosquitofestival.org. 1

OCT 25th

FALL FAVORITES

HARVEST MOON FESTIVAL

Franklin, Louisiana

Franklin's annual street festival celebrates the beauty of the season and the spirit of the sugar cane harvest. Head to Main Street in Franklin's historic district and join in the the fall-flavored fun. Highlights include the Louisiana Cane Syrup Expo, pony rides, an obstacle course, children's activities, and live music. And of course, plenty of warming food to stave off the coming winter. 10 am–6 pm. cajuncoast.com. 1

OCT 25th

MANGER BIEN

FRENCH FOOD FESTIVAL

Larose, Louisiana

The Lafourcheais, or people of Lafourche, have been doing this tasty thing each October for forty-something years now, which is to stuff the Larose Civic Center with dozens of food booths then tempt thousands of festival-goers with local specialties such as white oyster soup and shrimp boulettes. Expect live music, exhibits, an art show, a petting zoo, and carnival rides. Free. Details at bayoucivicclub.org. 1

OCT 25th

GOOD EATS

SWEET DOUGH PIE FESTIVAL

Grand Coteau, Louisiana

A more inviting festival title could not be found. Head to the grounds of Grand Coteau Town Park for the annual celebration of the traditional goodness (custard, fig, lemon, blackberry)-stuffed pastry beloved by locals (And anyone else who takes a bite). Browse through more than seventy vendors of arts, handmade items, flowers, herbs, custom furniture, indoor and outdoor decor, baby and children's clothing, while enjoying local food and live music by Sheryl Cormier & the Cajun Sounds, Blue Monday, Next Gen Zydeco, Curley Taylor & Zydeco Trouble, and D.J. Hawk. And of course, a pie competition. You can bet there will be piles of pie to buy, too. Guests will also get the opportunity to immerse themselves in the scenic town of Grand Coteau with self-guided tours, including St. Ignatius School, the St. Peter Claver complex, the Schools of the Sacred Heart, St. Charles Church, and cemetery—with

Events

Beginning October 25th - 30th

its backdrop of Spanish moss-draped live oaks—which includes the graves of the first African-American mayor for the State of Louisiana post-Reconstruction, the woman that the St. Charles Church Bell was named after, and historical gravesites for combat veterans and esteemed Jesuit priests. Proceeds to benefit the Grand Coteau Cultural Foundation. 9 am–5 pm at 231 Burleigh Lane, behind Town Hall. For more information on the festival or to become a vendor, call (337) 331-6352 or visit the Town of Grand Coteau Facebook Page. 1

OCT 25th

HAUNTINGS & HISTORY "VISITING THE PAST" AT CEDAR HILL CEMETERY

Washington, Louisiana

In one of Louisiana's oldest towns, a historic cemetery holds some of our region's most intriguing and long-held stories. Cedar Hill Cemetery's origins go back to the 1850s, when additional burial space was needed in Washington to bury the victims of the Yellow Fever epidemic. At the time, everyone in Washington was either buried here or in the town's

one other cemetery, regardless of creed or status or race. At this unique event, these histories will be explored on the beautiful grounds where these individuals rest. 5:30 pm–6:30 pm. cajuntravel.com. 1

OCT 25th

FALL FAVORITES

COVINGTON BOO FEST

Covington, Louisiana

ACCESS (Adapting and Changing Children’s Environments with Successful Solutions), a locally founded non-profit fund of the Northshore Community Foundation, will hold the annual Boo Fest on the grounds of Lakeview Regional Medical Center. The popular Northshore event benefits children with disabilities and their families, but is open to children of all abilities. The day is packed with lots of fall-themed activities, including pumpkin decorating at the pumpkin patch, face painting, all-abilities games, a complimentary photo booth, music and dancing, and much, much more. 10 am–3 pm. 9 am for special needs families. $2. accesslouisiana.org/boofest. 1

OCT 25th

SINISTER STROLLS

NEW ORLEANS ZOMBIE RUN

New Orleans, Louisiana

There are two ways to approach the zombie apocalypse. Beating them isn't much of an option, you've seen The Walking Dead. No, your choices are: stave them off, or join them. So don your biohazard suit and gas mask, or succumb to zombification at the New Orleans Zombie Run. Starting at 9 am, two miles along the Warehouse District will be infested with rotting corpses, the deadliest of which are the Big Easy Rollergirl Zombie Killers. Stick around for the Krewe of Boo Parade afterwards. Pre-registration is $25; $90 for VIP (race shirt guaranteed and open bar); day-of is $35; $100 VIP. neworleanszombierun.com. 1

OCT 25th

ARTS FOR EVERYONE

HALLOWEEN ART

AND NATURE FESTIVAL

Arnaudville, Louisiana

The theme at this year's Halloween Art and Nature Festival, "Enchanted Forest," is inspired by the state's magical nature that has inspired Indigenous, Cajun, and Creole folklore. The festival will showcase Southern artists as they create ways to talk with trees, sonify fungus, discover mycelial networks, explore the

Tree of Life's genetics, unicorn skeletons, and plenty more. Other programming includes an aerial performance, a Dungeons and Dragons tournament, a glow-in-the-dark forest art installation, bat and bug hikes, and camping after. 10 am–10 pm. Free, but registration required at atelierdelanature.org. 1

OCT 25th

SPOOKY SHINDIG

KREWE OF BOO PARADE

New Orleans, Louisiana

The official Halloween parade of New Orleans is back to creep the night away this year. Krewe of Boo rolls at 6:30 pm, creaking its way through the Boo Carré along North Peters, Canal, and Tchoupitoulas. kreweofboo.com. 1

OCT 25th - OCT 26th

SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE

LOUISIANA

WILDFOWL FESTIVAL

Mandeville, Louisiana

If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck in the Castine Center this weekend, it's probably a masterfully-carved decoy. The annual Louisiana Wildfowl Carvers & Collectors Guild Festival will bring hundreds of carvers from around the globe to Mandeville. The extensive list of categories include ducks, songbirds,

fish, caricatures, wildlife, interpretive art, and more. There's an auction, live decoy carving demonstrations, decoy painting contest, and a head whittling contest. Arts and crafts exhibitors will also set up in the Castine Center, and vendors will be on hand to sell carving and painting supplies. $5; $3 for children twelve and younger. 10 am–5 pm. lwccg.com. 1

OCT

25th - OCT 26th

AUTUMNAL OUTINGS

OLDE TOWNE SLIDELL

FALL STREET FAIR

Slidell, Louisiana

Join Olde Towne Slidell's annual Slidell Fall Street Fair spanning six blocks of Griffith Park area. The twoday affair features scores of booths with antiques, collectibles, arts, crafts, and delectable food, accompanied by live music. 10 am–5 pm. Free. visitthenorthshore.com. 1

OCT

25th - OCT 26th

FALL FAVORITES

YELLOW LEAF ARTS FESTIVAL

Saint Francisville, Louisiana

Embrace the whimsy of fall, small town charm, and seasonal shopping with the Yellow Leaf Arts Festival at Parker Park in St. Francisville. Musicians, craftspeople, artists, and collectors have gathered each year for over two decades now to hawk their wares and share their crafts. Make sure to catch the home-grown music from the area's songwriters and musicians, including Carter Hampton, Lynn Drury, Josh Garrett, Ashley Orlando, Ralph Miller, and The Vagabonds, among others. 10 am–5 pm. Email artsforallstfrancisville@gmail.com for more information. 1

OCT 26th

ART FESTIVALS

FALL FEST FOR ALL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Arts Council of Greater Baton Rouge presents Fall Fest For All, celebrating the twentieth anniversary of the Shaw Center and its contribution to Baton Rouge's cultural landscape. Expect an art market, food vendors, live music, and regional performances. Held in and around the Shaw Center for the Arts. 11 am–7 pm. Free. artsbr.org. 1

OCT 26th

BEER BASH

BOO & BREW IN NEW ROADS

New Roads, Louisiana

Come one, come all: New Roads hosts the annual Boo & Brew Halloween event with plans to fill downtown overlooking False River with craft beer, local food, live music, and Halloween activities for

the kids. Local businesses will host a trick or treat, as well as face painting, balloon animals, pumpkin and costume contests, yard games, a live caricature artist, and more. 3 pm–6 pm. $10 adults; $5 kids ages three to twelve; free ages two and younger; food and drinks sold separately. Find the event on Facebook. 1

OCT 26th

OLD-TIMEY HAINTS, HAUNTS, AND HALLOWEEN

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The LSU Rural Life Museum's annual event, "Haints, Haunts, and Halloween" honors the sights, sounds, and activities of an old-fashioned country Halloween. Storytelling, cake walks, pumpkin decorating, games, and the timeless art of trick-or-treating will take place on the museum’s grounds. Costumes encouraged, of course. 2 pm–4:30 pm. $12; $6 for ages 4-12; free for ages 3 and younger. lsu.edu/rurallife. bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 30th

FUN-DRAISERS SPIRITS OF LOUISIANA

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The halls of the Old State Capitol will be fit for a party at this shindig, in which guests will enjoy various liquors, craft cocktails, tasty bites, and live music. In honor of the building's 175th anniversary, the theme is 1975 (so dress in your grooviest getup). All proceeds from Spirits of Louisiana go directly to support the museum’s mission. Twenty-one and older only. 6:30 pm–9:30 pm. $90. louisianaoldstatecapitol.org. 1

OCT 30th - NOV 2nd

FALL FAVORITES

LA FÊTE DES BAYOUS Saint Amant, Louisiana

Our Lady of Holy Rosary Catholic Church hosts the annual La Fête des Bayous on the last weekend of October. Expect all the trappings of a great fall fair: rides, games, jambalaya and gumbo cook-offs, car show and talent show, live and silent auctions, and food for days. Special events include a Family Night featuring Boo with the Badge trick-ortreating, a Nun Run, and a talent show. Did we mention live music? Look forward to performances by Justin Cornett Band, Tet Dur, That 70s Band, and so many more throughout the weekend. 2 pm–8 pm Thursday; Mass at 8 am Friday, cook off at 2 pm, rides open 5 pm–11 pm; events start at 7 am Saturday, rides open 11 am–11 pm; Mass at 7 am and 10 am Sunday, rides noon–5 pm. geauxlafete.com. 1

Events

Beginning October 31st

OCT 31st

SPOOKY SHINDIGS

COLUMBIA STREET

BLOCK PARTY

Covington, Louisiana

This long-running last-Friday-of-themonth event closes the 200 to 500 blocks of Columbia Street to anything with an engine, providing lots of opportunities for fun on foot instead. The classic car people and the shop owners will be handing out goodies accordingly, plus live music at local venues. Shops and restaurants open late, too. 6 pm–9 pm. Free. covla.com. 1

OCT 31st- NOV 1st

BOOKWORMS

LOUISIANA BOOK FESTIVAL

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Louisiana's excellent annual literary festival returns this year, bringing hundreds of authors, literary-minded organizations, and bibliophiles together again, at last. Sprawling over the grounds of the Louisiana State Capitol, the State Library of Louisiana, Capitol Park Museum, and Capitol Park Event Center, the festival offers book talks, signings, and plenty more literary loveliness.

On October 31, with advance payment and registration, some attendees have the chance to attend "Wordshops" with award-winning and best-selling authors (this year featuring Julie Kane, Michele Filgate, Kionna Walker LeMalle, and Jesse Byrd); then, that night, the Louisiana Library and Book Festival Foundation hosts an Author Party at the Louisiana State Library. The November 1 festival is free for all. Full event schedule at louisianabookfestival.org, and tickets to the annual Wordshops writing workshops at bontempstix.com. 1

OCT 31st - NOV 1st

COUNTRY-FIED BOOTS ON THE BAYOU FESTIVAL

Gonzales, Louisiana

Boots on the Bayou pumps up the country vibes at Gonzales's LamarDixon Expo Center, hosting cowboy crooners from near and far. This year's headliners include none other than Chris Stapleton, Cody Johnson, and American Idol 's runner-up John Foster, among many other local and national acts. Festival grounds open each day at 12:45 pm, but parking gates open at 8 am. $99 for Friday; $119 for Saturday; other passes and VIP options available. botbmusic.com. 1

OCT 31st - NOV 1st

FAIS DO-DOS

LE GRAND HOORAH

Eunice, Louisiana

Carrying on a long tradition of celebrating Acadiana's cultural treasures in an intimate, authentic setting—Le Grand Hoorah returns to Lakeview Park & Beach. Join rural Acadiana's cooks, dancers, and musicians for two days of unparalleled cultural celebration in one of the region's most iconic dancehalls. Boucheries, fais do-dos, and inspiration await, with performances by the The Holiday Playgirls, Geno Delafose, the Savoy Family Band, Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys, and Le Grand Hoorah Swamp Pop Showcase. Details at legrandhoorah.com. 1

OCT 31st - NOV 2nd

FALL FAVORITES

HARVEST FESTIVAL ON FALSE RIVER

New Roads, Louisiana

Make your way down to Main Street in New Roads for the annual Harvest Festival on False River, a celebration of community and agricultural heritage. This year the festival features carnival rides, a 5K, live music, arts and crafts vendors, food vendors, contests, and much more to showcase the local harvest. 5 pm–10 pm Friday; 10 am–10 pm Saturday; 1 pm–5 pm Sunday. $11 per day. harvestfestivalnewroads.com. 1

OCT 31st - NOV 2nd

WHOLE-HOG

LOUISIANA SWINE FESTIVAL Basile, Louisiana

The first full weekend of November means Basile's Louisiana Swine Festival is back, complete with pork cook-offs and boudin eating contests, live music on Main Street, hog calling, and more. Proceedings are presided over by the festival royalty, anointed at a pageant the week before and honored with distinguished appearances from Queen Petunia and King Porky. Details at louisianaswinefestival.com. 1

For more events visit countryroadsmag.com/eventsand-festivals.

Fact or Fad?

LSU Pennington Biomedical Research Center Scientists weigh in on three of America’s latest health and nutrition trends

From celebrity Instagram posts to new products appearing on grocery store shelves, America’s health and nutrition landscape is abuzz with new trends promising to rewire our metabolisms and provide shortcuts to long-term wellness. GLP-1 medications like Ozempic and Wegovy continue to make headlines for their weight-loss effects, while the “protein overload” concept has gym enthusiasts doubling down on super-high-protein shakes, bars, and snacks. Right alongside, “fibermaxxing” is emerging as the latest wellness mantra, with more people embracing gut-friendly foods, and debates over the health benefits of seed oils versus animal fats continue to spark heated discussion in kitchens and clinics alike.

Confused yet? Here, three nutrition researchers at Baton Rouge’s LSU Pennington Biomedical Research Center weigh in on these hot-button health fads—and what they might mean for your health and your lifestyle.

“Over the past few years we have seen an explosion in interest around the newer ‘GLP-1 receptor agonist’ medicines for weight loss. Pennington has evaluated all of the currently available GLP1Rs (such as Ozempic and Wegovy) in clinical trials and we currently have multiple newer versions under study that are more potent, have few side effects, and vary in dosage schedules. Some are also for oral use and not injectable, unlike most current versions on the market. We are also testing related medicines that prevent the muscle loss seen with GLP1s. This is an exciting time for weight loss drug development and is a time long-awaited by people with obesity who have been thwarted in their weight loss attempts.”

—Dr. Steven Heymsfield, Professor of Metabolism and Body Composition, Pennington Biomedical Research Center

“Both protein and fiber are strong allies in crafting a sustainable, nutrient-dense diet.

“Protein is a cornerstone of a healthy diet, supporting muscle repair, immune function, and overall vitality. The concept of ‘protein overload’ is often misrepresented. When you’re consuming whole foods rather than relying on supplements, your body is well-equipped to handle higher protein intakes without adverse effects. Prioritizing diverse, nutrientrich protein sources ensures balance and long-term health.”

“Fiber is a dietary hero that is often underappreciated. ‘Fibermaxxing,’ or aiming to meet or slightly exceed daily fiber recommendations, aligns beautifully with the principles of many of the world’s healthiest diets, such as the Mediterranean Diet, Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension (or DASH) Diet, etc. By focusing on whole grains, fruits, vegetables, and legumes, you not only support gut health but also improve heart health, blood sugar regulation, and satiety.”

—Dr. Jacob Mey, Assistant Professor, Mitochondrial Energetics and Nutrient Utilization Lab

“Seed oils are generally healthier than animal fats because they are higher in polyunsaturated fats, particularly omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, things that our bodies need but cannot produce on their own. On the other hand, Animal fats and coconut oil are typically higher in saturated fats, which can be problematic for people with heart disease or blood lipid issues.”

Champagne avoids using animal fats because of their documented negative impact on heart health.

“I cook with canola oil because it has a high content of monounsaturated fat—similar to olive oil, both of which are heart healthy.”

—Dr. Catherine Champagne, Professor, Dietary Assessment and Nutrition Counseling Nutritional, Epidemiology and one of the developers of the DASH Diet

To learn more about the groundbreaking nutritional research taking place at Pennington Biomedical Research Center, and explore a range of programs and clinical trials available to the Baton Rouge community, visit www.pbrc.edu.

1. Trending usage of GLP-1s for weight loss

2. “Fibermaxxing” and protein overload trend

3. Seed oils vs animal fats

VISIT NEW ROADS - COME FOR THE

Preservation with Purpose

Pointe Coupée Historical Society wins statewide historic preservation award

Each August, the release of the Louisiana Trust for Historic Preservation’s list of Louisiana’s Most Endangered Places challenges communities to take stock of imperiled architectural, historic, and cultural treasures in their midst, and often spurs efforts to save them. Less well-known but equally significant are LTHP’s annual Preservation Awards, which recognize groups and individuals that have successfully saved historic properties. This year, LTHP’s 2025 Organizational Excellence Award went to the Pointe Coupée Historical Society, for demonstrating “… an outstanding commitment to historic preservation through its ongoing initiatives centered around the preservation and adaptive reuse of the historic Poydras High School, securing critical funding for preservation efforts, and transforming the space into a vibrant hub of community engagement while honoring the building’s storied past.” Known today as the Julien Poydras Center, the circa 1924 Poydras High School hosts art and historical exhibits, concert series, meetings and receptions, and provides office space for local agencies including the chamber of commerce, tourism commission, arts council; and, not surprisingly, the Pointe Coupée Historical Society itself.

Most days, that office is where you’ll find Mindy LaCour, PCHS’s sole employee, who has led the Julien Poydras Center’s programming, maintenance, and funding since 2018. Seven years ago, LaCour moved from Houston to New Roads—her husband’s ancestral home—after serving as special education director for a Texas independent school district. “When my husband retired, he said ‘Let’s go back to New Roads,’ ” she recalled. “I said ‘What am I gonna do?’ So, I answered an ad in the Pointe Coupée Banner, and here we are!”

By 2018 the Poydras Center needed some TLC. Sixteen years since its original, 2002 restoration, many interior spaces needed repainting, windows were leaking, HVAC units were starting to fail, and the plaster in many interi-

or spaces needed attention. “In addition, the office spaces were not all rented, and those that were rented were not paying enough,” Lacour pointed out, “so we were running in a deficit.” She convinced the local main street, chamber of commerce, and tourism offices to relocate into the Poydras Center, joining several existing tenants including the Arts Council of Pointe Coupée. Applying skills she’d learned as a school administrator, LaCour identified historic preservation grants that the Poydras Center and the Historical Society qualified for and began writing applications. She was successful. “We used the different grants to apply to building renovation, and to bring some permanent exhibits to the building,” she said. “The community started to notice that the building was improving, and we started having folks rent out spaces for parties and receptions, too.”

Today, with grant funding secured, maintenance issues addressed, and multiple local agencies in residence, the Poydras Center is the beating heart of New Roads’ community life. It hosts the Arts Council of Pointe Coupée’s Performing Arts Series concerts, the annual Treasures of Pointe Coupée art show, a rotating series of pop-up art exhibits, and a long-term historical exhibition named “The Agriculture of Pointe Coupée Parish.” In addition, having the Arts Council, Tourism, and Main Street offices under one roof has enabled the organizations to collaborate, bringing new events and festivals to New Roads’ cultural calendar. “We have an awesome core team that all work together,” LaCour said.

Brian Davis, Executive Director of the Louisiana Trust for Historic Preservation, noted that much of the Pointe Coupée Historical Society’s success in making the Poydras Center work has been due to the development of a good business plan. “I cover all 64 parishes, so I see the gamut of what’s out there,” Davis said. “A lot of times folks will say ‘Let’s turn [our building] into a museum or a community center.’ That’s not a sustainable solution. Any historic

building really has to have a business plan. That’s what our Organizational Excellence Award is all about: leveraging a historic asset to be a viable resource for the community.”

Asked why saving historic buildings is important, Davis offered an anecdote. When he travels the state to talk about preservation, Davis presents a slide show. First, he’ll flash up some photos—of a big box store, a supermarket chain, maybe a Starbucks—and ask his audience to guess where each place is. They never know. Then, he’ll show photographs of Louisiana landmarks—Natchitoches’ Front Street, St. Louis Cemetery No. 2 in New Orleans, the Historic Plaquemine Lock. Naturally, his audience recognizes them every time. “That really drives it home,” he says. “For me, historic preservation is not just saving the buildings. It’s saving the stories. It’s remembering all the history, the events, the lives, that happened there. Otherwise, it’s all just sticks and bricks.”

www.pointecoupeehistoricalsociety.com/about-us

Pointe Coupée Historical Society's Mindy LaCour at the Julien Poydras Center

Private pier for Pointe Breeze guests only! Boat Launch coming soon! Convenient to local restaurants & shopping!

BENEATH THE FLOORBOARDS

The Teche Tunnel

HOW WHISPERS OF A HIDDEN PASSAGE BENEATH MOUNT CARMEL ACADEMY BECAME LEGEND ALONG BAYOU TECHE

Story by Shanna Beck Perkins • Artwork by Paul Schexnayder

The communities along the Bayou Teche vibrate with a frequency of mystery. Their legends and lore are as much a part of the landscape as the Spanish moss and magnolias.

There is a particular tale that was whispered from one Catholic schoolgirl to the next, echoing through the halls of Mount Carmel Academy, for generations. The mystery lay beneath the floorboards upon which they walked, where a secret passageway was rumored to stretch all the way beneath the bayou itself.

The academy was founded in New Iberia by the Sisters of Mount Carmel in 1870. Two years later, the school moved from St. Peter’s Street to the historic Henry F. Duperier home, perched on the banks of the Bayou Teche across the bridge from St. Peter’s Cathedral, where it remained until its closure in 1988. Since 1998, the property has been owned by Hermane Schellstede-Pflieger, who

In New Iberia artist Paul Schnexnayder's, "The Seven Glorious Mysteries and Theories Surrounding the Underground Tunnel at Mt. Carmel Academy," he depicts the tunnel traveling beneath the Bayou Teche, from legend to legend: as a refuge for the nuns to engage in "illicit" activities like drinking or gambling, a place to hide away Mount Carmel's pregnant students, or where people might have been held captive for any reason. Other lore poses it as an escape route for the enslaved, Jean Lafitte's private passageway, a place of Satanic worship, or a route connecting the sisters to the priests of St. Peter's Catholic Church.

named it Place Eugenie after his late wife and high school sweetheart— also a Mount Carmel girl.

The legacy of Mount Carmel is still held with reverence in the community. Schellstede-Pflieger recalls the rigorous standards of the school when he was courting his future bride. “The nuns were very strict with their girls. You had to be on time, proper. If you were dating a Mount Carmel girl, it was special,” he said.

In a school defined by structure, the thrills of the hidden tunnel’s lore offered the balance of mischief. Whether born from fact or fancy, the tale lives on—tucked between history and folklore, where the best Southern stories tend to linger.

Legends are never crisp; their edges are hazy. Memories differ on the exact location of where the entrance to the Teche Tunnel was. Some claim it lay hidden in the chapel where Mass was held in the school, while others insist it was tucked under the principal’s office or cleverly concealed beneath the secretary’s desk. There are murmurs of an entrance near the kitchen. But even more steeped in speculation is the question of the tunnel’s origin.

“I always heard the tunnel led to St. Peter’s Catholic Church,” recalled New Iberia artist Paul Schexnayder, who grew up with the legend and later researched it for the painting, "The Seven Glorious Mysteries and Theories Surrounding the Underground Tunnel at Mt. Carmel Academy."

“Some people said the priests and nuns used it to travel back and forth [to each other]. Others believed it was part of the Underground Railroad. And of course, there was a version warning Mount Carmel girls that it was a place for those who "misbehaved" or fell pregnant.

To others, the trapdoor was known as “the pirate room.” Sister Catherine Riggs, who graduated from Mount Carmel in 1960 and later returned as part of the sisterhood, shared, “The story goes that Jean Lafitte was a friend of the Duperier family. So, in the original house, they built a trap -

door with a tunnel that came out on the other side of the bayou so that he could come and go without being seen.”

As is often the case, at the center of the tangled mess of myth, there is a kernel of verifiable fact. Beneath the floorboards of Mount Carmel Academy, there really is a hidden door leading into the earth.

After the school’s closure, Riggs seized the opportunity to find out whether the old legends held any meat. While helping pack things up, she told a maintenance man, “I’ve been hearing about this famous tunnel since I was in seventh grade. I want to see it.” He obliged, revealing and then opening a trapdoor in the section of the building that once served as the original Duperier home. Though she demurred to enter because of the cobwebs, she clearly recalled the sight of steps leading into the ground.

Schexnayder recounted his wife's 2004 high school reunion on the former Mount Carmel grounds. Lured by the legend and not deterred by cobwebs, a small group found the entrance in the floorboards. Someone had a crowbar in their car, and they opened it up, making their way below into a small earthen room enclosed by four walls. On the ground were quiet traces of devious behavior: remnants of a fire, charred filmstrips, and crushed aluminum cans. “The wall behind the stairs had a hole,” he said. “We reached back as far as it would go, and you could feel where it ended, like it had been closed off.”

One of Schellstede-Pflieger’s first tasks after purchasing the building was to investigate whether the rumored tunnel actually existed. Surveyors quickly found the same trapdoor. “On the Bridge Street side of the building, we found a large brick structure underground,” he explained. “We went into the tunnel from the convent and recovered artifacts from the short portion that still remains.” The artifacts included pottery, French doors, cots, and gardening tools.

“THE TALE OF THE TECHE TUNNEL IS JUST ONE OF MANY PASSED FROM PORCH TO PEW TO PAGE— EACH ADDING SHAPE AND TEXTURE TO THE CULTURAL IDENTITY OF THIS REGION. STORIES LIKE THESE CARRY MORE THAN MYSTERY; THEY HOLD WITHIN THEM THE VALUES, VOICES, AND LIVED EXPERIENCES OF A COMMUNITY.”

Despite how little we actually know about the tunnel, the tradition of storytelling in New Iberia has kept it alive in local memory, each retelling adding another thread to the tapestry of rumor and recollection. Of them all, the Lafitte lore—as it so often does—arises as the most immortal of all historical possibilities associated with the Teche Tunnel.

This version of the story—in which the secret tunnel beneath Mount Carmel Academy was used by the infamous pirate Jean Lafitte to escape to Bayou Teche—is the focus of a newly installed historical marker on Bridge Street at Place Eugenie. The TECHE Project received a Legends & Lore Marker grant from the William G. Pomeroy Foundation, administered by the Center for Louisiana Studies, to commemorate this local legend and highlight it as a piece of regional folklore and heritage.

“We definitely took advantage of the lore part of the marker program and see it as a fun story related to the bayou that may have some kernels of truth,” said TECHE Project Administrator Erin Z. Bass. “The most interest-

ing thing has been the response to the marker. So many people want to hear more about the legend. We even heard from a woman who claims to be related to Jean Lafitte.”

The tale of the Teche Tunnel is just one of many passed from porch to pew to page—each adding shape and texture to the cultural identity of this region. Stories like these carry more than mystery; they hold within them the values, voices, and lived experiences of a community.

“We cherish the place for all of its history,” said Schellstede-Pflieger. “Our goal is to put it in a position where it is long lasting and useful to the community of Iberia Parish.” That same sense of purpose drives efforts like the Legends & Lore markers. “Oral history is a huge part of the allure of Bayou Teche,” Bass added. “We see our role as preserving and sharing these stories.”

Even as the Teche Tunnel’s legacy has been preserved, the boundaries between history and legend remain as murky as the bayou water—serving as a constant reminder that sometimes, the truth is hidden beneath the floorboards. 1

A special advertising feature from the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum

Prescribing the Past

Exploring the remedies, rituals, and relics of America’s first licensed pharmacy

It’s no secret that time gets slippery in the French Quarter. For those who know where to look, the historic streets— ringing with the sounds of steamboats and street musicians—hold countless portals to the past. But always lingering beneath the city’s multi-layered stories of music, trade, high society, and war is another historical reality equally important to recognize: that of New Orleans’s rich, and often fraught, relationship with human health. A portal into that particularly fascinating history awaits on Chartres Street, inside the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum.

The museum is housed inside a circa-1820s Creole townhouse with the unique distinction of having housed the first licensed pharmacist in the United States. To step inside is to enter into a period-accurate recreation of a functioning 19th century apothecary—the walls lined with shelves holding hundreds of concoctions and potions: cinnamon, quinine, nux vomica, ipecac, deadly nightshade—often used to cure “women’s woes”—and much more. Every drug is real, and has been preserved for two hundred years and counting.

In the back is the compounding station, where the pharmacist would mix his medicines—concocting tinctures and ointments and salves to treat the multitude of ailments suffered by people living in nineteenth century New Orleans, when Yellow Fever earned the city the unfortunate moniker of the “Necropolis of the South.” Patients wouldn’t have been privy to the process; instead they waited for their prescriptions on the other side of a separating wall. Today a mirror marks the waiting area, in which one might imagine patients inspecting their boils, their flushed cheeks, while the doctor mixed powders and banged about with his mortar and pestle.

“It was part of the magic,” explained Owen Ever, a historian at The Pharmacy Museum. “There was a veil of mystery he would have cast over the process to increase the faith people had in the medicine.”

“He” was Louis J. Dufilho, Jr., who opened the pharmacy in 1823, shortly after becoming the first person to submit to Louisiana’s licensing requirements for medical practitioners, imposed by Governor William C.C. Claiborne. Because Louisiana was the first American state to require medical licensing, Dufilho holds the title as the first medically licensed pharmacist in the United States.

“There were,” explained Ever, “of course many functioning, practicing healers of all different traditions. But when it became an American city … the reputation New Orleans was getting as ‘the wet grave’—this place where you go and party and get sick and die—well, that was obviously a PR nightmare.” This, historians pose, was Claiborne’s reasoning for instituting regulation on medical practices in the city.

As a historical site illuminating the shift from traditional medicinal practices to institutional ones, Dufilho’s pharmacy serves as a repository for information about 19th century New Orleans society and daily life. It was a time during which New Orleans was a hub for geopolitical trade—granting the pharmacist access to medicine and traditions from across the world, while simultaneously exposing the population to a range of exotic illnesses. The city was already remarkably culturally diverse: “We know that he was getting herbs from the French Market, as well as a precolonial Indigenous botanical garden down the street. There was Congo Square, where free people of color and the Choctaw and Chitimacha are congregating and exchanging recipes, music, and medical traditions,” said Ever. “He’s pulling from all of that.” There are even Vodou potions on the shelves—“ways of bringing spiritual relief.”

Each object in the museum, Ever points out, holds multiple stories—points of entry into this specific time period and “the way they thought about bodies, wellness, all these things. You look at one, tiny artifact, and suddenly the whole world around it starts to expand.”

On display, for instance, are tools and artifacts representing some of medicine’s more macabre historical detours—there are amputation saws, machines for administering electric shocks, a jar for keeping leeches, even tampons soaked in nightshade and opium. Ever sees these artifacts as providing opportunities to contemplate how, even when our medical practitioners have been wrong, as a species we have always tried hard not to die. “Suffering is something we’re always trying to alleviate, run away from, find relief from,” he said. “And that is something all of us, across time, have in common.”

The Pharmacy Museum is open for self-guided tours Tuesday–Saturday, 11 am–4 pm, with a $10 admission ($7 for seniors 65+, people with disabilities, students, and military; free for kids 6 and under.)

Guided tours (highly recommended) are available from 10 am–11 am on Wednesday–Sunday, with a $20 admission ($17 for seniors 65+, people with disabilities, students, and military; free for kids 6 and under.) During October, special Halloween tours will be offered on Saturdays. Guided tours must be booked online in advance.

*Coming up: On Saturday, December 6, the Pharmacy Museum’s 25th annual fundraiser, themed “Viva Las Vegas,” will celebrate the museum’s 75th anniversary with a live auction, raffle, casino games, food, drink, and a martini bar. Mark your calendars; all are welcome. $100 General Admission. Details at pharmacymuseum.org.

A Shadow in the Delta

DID JESSE JAMES ROB TWO MISSISSIPPI

STORES IN 1879, OR WAS THE TALE BORN OF WHISKEY, MEMORY, AND MYTH?

Story byWilliam Browning

There is an old enduring legend that says sometime in the late 1870s, the outlaw Jesse James ventured into one of the deepest corners of south Mississippi, robbed two stores near Natchez, and was being pursued through the Louisiana Delta when—poof—he vanished again into the wilderness.

Academic and amateur historians have circulated this story for years, and last year it made the social media rounds a couple of times. It even appears on James’s Wikipedia page.

But is it true? Did Jesse James, the Wild West’s wildest outlaw, whose nineteenth-century exploits are most often associated with the dusty Midwest, commit a series of robberies in the Reconstruction-era Gulf South?

I began a search for the answer by reaching out to two of James’s biographers. Marley Brant, author of the 1998 biography, Jesse James: The Man and The Myth, responded: “I have no

knowledge of Jesse James being involved in a robbery near Natchez.” T.J. Stiles, a two-time Pulitzer Prize winner who wrote the 2002 biography, Jesse James: Last Rebel of the Civil War, replied: “I have no idea if he robbed the stores or not.”

It was when Stiles added, “No comprehensive catalog of his crimes exists,” that I came to the realization that no one will ever know, for sure, what all robberies James committed. As Stiles wrote in his book’s foreword, James was “a shadow, a man who lived underground eternally and was literally a legend—formed of rumors and stories, bearing an unknown relationship to fact.” This tracked directly into something Brant had said: “He has been accused of nearly every robbery that occurred during the time he was active. Most of those accusations are baseless and false.”

So, early in my quest, the question changed from, “Did Jesse James rob those south Mississippi stores?” to the

frankly much more intriguing, “Could Jesse James have robbed those south Mississippi stores?”

I began that search by seeking out contemporaneous newspaper accounts of the alleged robberies near Natchez, only to find exactly nothing—except for what could possibly be the legend’s origin point. The story, published in the April 15, 1938 edition of The Times-Picayune newspaper, centered around a Louisiana politician and jurist named Jefferson B. Snyder. Eighty years old at the time of the interview and recovering from a broken leg, Snyder told the reporter he had been a Tensas Parish deputy sheriff in 1879, when he took part in a local manhunt for Jesse James.

According to Snyder, James and his posse had robbed “the store of Grover and Whitcomb” in Washington, an unincorporated community near Natchez, before traveling twenty-five miles north to Fayette, where they stole $2,000 from “the Johnson store.”

The James bunch then crossed the Mississippi River into Louisiana and took refuge “on the Kemp Plantation,” south of St. Joseph. Soon discovered, the posse fled, with Snyder and others giving chase and killing two of its members. The rest, including James, escaped.

The piece in which this James story appears is not actually about the famous outlaw at all, but a profile on Snyder’s long, interesting life. In fact, the James anecdote only occupies two of the story’s eighteen paragraphs. More importantly, every detail in the article appears to have been based entirely on this single, extensive interview with Snyder. To determine the credibility of his story, I had to consider his reliability as a narrator. In short, could we take his word for it?

Snyder certainly lived a life that would have required a degree of public trust. In addition to being a district attorney for thirty years, he served a stint in the Louisiana House of Representatives. His family was apparently of good stock; his brother, Robert, served as Louisiana lieutenant governor from 1896 to 1900. But being politically active (especially in Louisiana) hardly equates to an honest man.

There is something else to consider, too. The brief section of The Times-Picayune piece dealing with the James story ends with a description of Snyder by the journalist, who writes of his telling as follows: “with [a] wonderful capacity for embellishment, he makes a real ‘thriller’ of it.” The line appears to suggest, diplomatically, that the writer does not necessarily believe everything about the story in question. I will add, as well, that Snyder was interviewed at his Lake Bruin cabin, which, the writer mentions, was a place not without jugs of “well-aged” corn liquor.

What this leaves us with is the realization that the apparent sole source of the James legend is the telling of an eighty-year-old raconteur, who was sitting in his cabin, probably within arm’s reach of bootleg whiskey, recounting the exploits of his youth, sixty years prior, to a newspaper reporter

Frank James and Jesse James, from The Illustrated Lives and Adventures of Frank and Jesse James, and the Younger Brothers: the Noted Western Outlaws (1882), by J.A. Darcus.

looking for a story.

It’s hardly a recipe for veracity.

In the spirit of a good story, though, I choose to, for now, take Snyder at his word.

The next step is to consider what we know of James’s physical whereabouts during 1879—a relatively easy task, as he was, in Stiles’s words, “a figure as publicized as the president”—to determine if it was even possible that he was in south Mississippi that year.

But to answer that question, I found myself turning back to the beginning. Born in Missouri in 1847, James’s life of crime began with the bushwhacking violence between pro-Confederate and pro-Union citizens in that state during the Civil War. Having grown up in a slave-owning family, James took up the Confederate cause. After the war, when Lincoln Republicans came into political power across the South, was when James began his famed life as a crook. Newspapers across the South were soon portraying his crimes in such a way that he became a sort of stand-in for the frustrations of defeated Confederates during Reconstruction. James did not mind. In fact, Stiles notes in his biography that the racketeer worked to enhance the image, pulling stunts

like robbing a train while dressed in Ku Klux Klan garb. By the late 1870s, though, Reconstruction had ended, Lincoln Republicans had lost their power down South, and James had reportedly retired from crime.

He was living in Nashville by early 1879, when the itch to rob resurfaced. Stiles suggests that James, who had committed his most infamous crimes primarily in the Midwest, had reason at this time to begin “working” in Dixie, where his public image—that of a pro-Confederate, pro-slavery outlaw— would have played better.

“He was upset that he was not seen locally as a Confederate avenger,” Stiles told me regarding James’s time in Nashville, “so he wrote letters to the newspapers.”

Regardless of the reason, James is known to have committed robberies in Alabama and Kentucky after coming out of retirement.

Still, from what we know of his physical whereabouts in 1879, it would have been hard for him to squeeze in a Natchez run. According to the late Ted P. Yeatman’s 2000 biography, Frank and Jesse James: The Story Behind the Legend , James was diagnosed with malaria in Nashville on March 17, 1879, and “was

EARLY IN MY QUEST, THE QUESTION CHANGED FROM, “DID JESSE JAMES ROB THOSE SOUTH MISSISSIPPI STORES?” TO THE FRANKLY MUCH MORE INTRIGUING, “COULD JESSE JAMES HAVE ROBBED THOSE SOUTH MISSISSIPPI STORES?”

laid up for quite a while.” Stiles writes that James was likely in Nashville in July for the birth of his daughter. By August or September, he was back in Missouri, and robbed a train there in October. In November he was back in Nashville, more than 400 miles northeast of Natchez. There just does not seem to have been much time for him to make the trip.

Unless there was.

While Stiles places James in Nashville in July of 1879, Yeatman suggests that he “very likely” traveled to New

Mexico that month. If so, he may have traveled via Natchez. Here’s where it gets interesting: Yeatman writes that while in New Mexico, James met Henry McCarty, who went by the alias “William H. Bonney”—better known by history as “Billy The Kid.”

Might we then add to the legend the probability that that Jesse James robbed two stores near Natchez in 1879, while he was passing through on his way out West, to meet up with Billy The Kid?

At least that’s the way Jefferson B. Snyder would probably tell it. 1

CURSES

The Witch of Yazoo

THE LEGEND BEHIND THE FIRE OF 1904

Story by Susan Marquez

t the heart of the historic section of Yazoo City’s Glenwood Cemetery is one of the town’s most visited attractions. The graveyard is a beautiful place to wander, filled by intricately designed mausoleums with stained glass windows and ornate carvings— the final resting place for Yazoo City’s most prominent families—as well as a simple marker placed where bodies of Civil War soldiers were laid to rest. But for most, the enduring intrigue of Glenwood convenes at the mysterious grave of the Witch of Yazoo.

For more than a century, the witch’s grave has been the subject of countless ghost stories, the centerpiece of many a teenage dare. To this day, pilgrims make their way to the cemetery to pay their respects, or perhaps to ponder the tale that has captured the imaginations of an entire town and beyond.

The story of the Witch of Yazoo is short, but not-so-sweet. There are no records, but the legend has been passed down for over a century. The story changes, depending on who you ask, but the most prevalent version seems to be traced back to Willie Morris’s 1971 autobiGood Old Boy.

In Morris’s telling, the witch was rumored to lure fishermen into her home on stormy nights and poison them, burying their bodies on a densely wooded hill. On May 25, 1884, a local boy named Joe Bob Duggett passed the witch’s house on a raft. He heard a loud moan coming from the house, so he tied up the raft and ran toward it. Peeking in a window, he saw the witch, caked in cockleburs and dirt, standing over two dead bodies, reciting indecipherable spells. Joe Bob frantically returned to town and told the sheriff what he had seen. When the sheriff and his men arrived at the witch’s house, neither the dead men nor the witch was found. Instead, they found several half-starved cats, a pile of fish bones, and two skeletons hanging from the ceiling.

Footsteps were heard rustling in the fallen pecan leaves in the backyard, and they saw an old woman, “half ghost and half scarecrow, but all witch,” sneaking away into the swamps along the river. The sheriff chased her into deep quicksand, where her last words before sinking below the surface were, “I shall return. Everybody always hated me here. I will break out of my grave and burn down the town on

“As she was sinking, her pockmarked face was strained toward the sky,” says Charlie Carlisle, a Yazoo City resident who tells the story to visitors at the witch’s grave. “She swore her revenge on the townspeople and screamed that in twenty years, she would return and burn Yazoo City to the ground.”

After retrieving her body from the sand, using pitchforks and cypress limbs, the authorities buried the witch in the center of the town cemetery, covering her grave in the heaviest

Images courtesy of Madisyn Cummins, of Visit Yazoo.

chains they could find. No one knew her name. It is said that the original tombstone was marked simply with the letters “T.W.,” which many speculate stood for “The Witch.” Eventually, people forgot all about the witch and her curse. That is, until May 25, 1904—

twenty years after the witch’s death. It was a day without forecasts of high winds, yet a breeze picked up, blowing from the southwest. A spark led to a fire that spread down Main Street, then onto Mound Street. “The destruction was massive,” said Carlisle. “The library

was spared, but the beautiful Episcopal church across the street burned.”

When all the flames subsided and the damages were assessed, it was determined that over 200 residences and nearly every business in Yazoo City had been destroyed. In all, 325 build-

ings burned to the ground. No one knew the source of the fire. One theory suggests that it began in the parlor of a young Yazoo City woman who was getting ready for her wedding that afternoon.

The next day, a group of citizens recalled the witch’s curse and made their way into Glenwood, where they found the large chains around her grave broken in two.

“The grave is hands down our biggest tourist attraction,” said Madisyn Cummins, communications coordinator for Visit Yazoo. “People come from all over the country to see it.” She said she has heard that during the fire, people witnessed the witch jumping from building to building, spreading the flames as she went. Others reported that the flames seemed to jump through the air. “That’s the eeriest part of the story. They said it was as if the flames were driven by a supernatural force, because the winds were so unusually high.”

Visitors to Yazoo City often call Cummings to arrange for a tour of the cemetery. Dressed in a period frock coat (weather permitting), Carlisle—a

history teacher of more than forty years—will take groups or individuals out to Glenwood, always stopping a bit longer at the witch’s grave. “It’s a fun story to tell,” he said.

Carlisle laments that there is so little concrete knowledge of the witch. “We don’t really know any other details

who discovered the broken grave on that dreadful day in 1904 shared the story with Morris’s character and his friends. “As boys, we would go see it for ourselves,” Morris wrote. “No repairs were made, a reminder to future generations. As if by some supernatural strength, the chain around the grave

“I SHALL RETURN. EVERYBODY ALWAYS HATED ME HERE. I WILL BREAK OUT OF MY GRAVE AND BURN DOWN THE TOWN ON MAY 25, 1904.”

—THE

about the witch outside of what Willie wrote in that book,” said Carlisle. The book, a work of fiction, is a coming-ofage story that chronicles a boy’s life in post-WWII Yazoo City, Mississippi. Biographical in nature, the book is a close retelling of Morris’s own childhood. Morris’s grave can be found in Glenwood Cemetery, too, just thirteen paces from the witch’s.

So the story goes, one of the citizens

WITCH OF YAZOO

had been broken in two.”

According to Cummins, locals claim that to this day, the chains are broken each time they are replaced. A stone monument was installed in 1995, detailing the story of the witch and her curse, before mysteriously splitting in two itself. Following a more recent vandalization, in September the city installed an almost $4,000 replacement. We'll see how long this one lasts. 1

NOSTALGIC NOSHES

Big Trouble in Hattiesburg

CHEF JEREMY NOFFKE'S IRREVERENT NEW HOTSPOT

Story by William Browning

This may sound like hyperbole, but it is a simple fact that no restaurant that has opened in Hattiesburg, Mississippi this century has done so with more anticipatory buzz than Chef Jeremy Noffke’s Big Trouble.

It began late summer 2023, when construction crews showed up at a long-vacant building along Hardy Street, the city’s main thoroughfare. It had most recently housed a package store. Locals wondered what was coming, with only a single signboard out front to offer a clue: “It’s not an immediate care.”

As construction continued through fall, other messages appeared. “The zoo pays the giraffes to flirt with you.” “Sign up for yodeling classes today.” “Exercising is great! Unless you compare it to not exercising.”

While these missives churned up interest, so did the enigmatic name—“Big Trouble”—that was soon flaunted across the front of the building. There was also the restaurant’s logo—or, more accurately, its mascot—which appeared beside the name one day: a raccoon with a slightly sinis -

ter squint holding a baseball bat behind its back. When Big Trouble finally opened in December 2023, its culinary offerings proved commensurate with the intrigue that had swirled around the building for months.

An “(a)typical Asian-American restaurant” is how Big Trouble describes itself. While that’s not wrong, it’s imprecise. When pressed, Chef Noffke said the fare “skews heavily toward Chinese-American cuisine,” but he added that there are other influences, too, and he did so in a tone that suggested trying to define the food would be a fool’s errand.

He has a point. The menu includes chicken wings dipped in fish sauce caramel. There are various steamed buns options and two kinds of inhouse ramen. There is a smash burger. One appetizer is queso dip served with fried “wonton chips.” There is a fried rice dish that includes pork rinds and another designed to taste basically like a Big Mac.

Perhaps our purposes are best served by saying that Big Trouble is like nothing else in Mississippi’s Piney Woods.

Hattiesburg is a fine town for eating out. There are a plethora of locally-owned restaurants, from pub-style eateries and Italian diners, to Greek and Mediterranean joints, to burger spots and New Orleans-inspired seafood places—not to mention the dozens of fish houses outside the city limits, specializing in fried catfish and coleslaw. There is also any chain imaginable. But for a town of roughly 50,000 people that is home to two universities, Hattiesburg’s culinary scene has plenty of space for a homegrown, slightly left-of-center restaurant. You know the type. A place that takes its food and its service very seriously, but not much else.

Noffke co-owns Big Trouble with Emily Curry and Dusty Frierson, both of whom have extensive experience in the Hattiesburg restaurant scene. Curry and Frierson worked with Noffke to curate the eclectic interior aesthetic, with various nods to Asian culture coexisting with pieces of Beastie Boys paraphernalia. There are photographs of Angela Lansbury, too. And sometimes the bathroom speakers play the Mad Men theme song. But it is Noffke’s personality and literal taste that are most reflected on Big Trouble’s menu.

At age forty-eight, Noffke is not new to the south Mississippi culinary scene. In fact, Robert St. John, a respected Mississippi restaurateur who has lived and worked in Hattiesburg since the 1980s, called Noffke “the most talented chef in the state.”

After graduating from a Hattiesburg-area high school in 1994, he went to Tampa, Florida, to pursue his passion for skateboarding. While there, he began working in restaurants. By his early twenties, he was back in Hattiesburg, where he got a job busing tables at St. John’s Crescent City Grill. Noffke worked for St. John for two decades. Along the way, he attended the Culinary Institute of America, where the erstwhile skater kid learned the methods of the world’s finest cooks. In 2009, back in Hattiesburg, he became chef de cuisine at Purple Parrot Cafe, a position he held for eight years.

In 2017, Noffke moved to the Gulf Coast, where he helped open a restaurant and then worked as a corporate chef. It was a time that did not suit him.

Photos courtesy of Big Trouble.

In explaining why, he smiled and held up his heavily tattooed arms. He simply felt the environment did not offer enough creative freedom.

So, in 2022, when Southern Prohibition (SoPro), a brewery in downtown Hattiesburg, asked Noffke to help build a food menu, he jumped at the chance. He designed the kitchen from scratch and still to this day serves as the brewery’s taproom chef. Noffke’s sense of irony and culture is evident on the SoPro menu as well. There is the “Obligatory Giant Brewery Pretzel” and “Totino’s Pizza Roll Nachos,” which are “locally sourced from Sam’s.” There is also the “Double Royale With Cheese” and the “Beer-IA Tacos.”

It is this irreverence that shines brightest at Big Trouble. One of the most popular sections on the menu is “Food Court Classics,” which includes orange chicken and beef and broccoli, reminiscent of childhood lunches at shopping malls. The only difference, Noffke pointed out, is that his version is made fresh-to-order and hasn’t spent hours beneath a heat lamp. “No shade to buffets,” he added with surprising sincerity, admitting that he still routinely partakes.

There is also a section on the menu called, “Fancy Plates,” which includes duck (“tea-smoked peking breast”), Norwegian smoked salmon, and Mishima Reserve wagyu flat iron. “I still like to flex every now and then,” Noffke said with the kind of grin only a person who subscribes to both Thrasher and Bon Appetit magazines can pull off.

It’s not just Big Trouble’s menu that is informal. The restaurant’s wait staff suggests that customers pick and choose items at their whim, essentially disregarding typical designations like “Appetizer,” “Entrée,” and “Sides.”

“Choose your own adventure,” said Noffke. 1

eatbigtrouble.com

Soupçon

A DASH OF DINING NEWS

By CR Editorial Staff

out at five cents a dozen. More than 150 years later, the place is still known to serve some of the best bivalves in the region against a backdrop of local zydeco and blues. Earlier this summer, Dupuy’s—now run by Jody and Tonya Hebert—was one of fifty historic small restaurants nationwide selected to receive a $50,000 grant from the National Trust for Historic Preservation and American Express. The funds will go toward renovations and infrastructure support, ensuring that America holds on to its historic eateries, which have managed to feed communities for generations. dupuys.com.

Rosie Grant's To Die For Cookbook

In 2023, TikTok and Instagram influencer Rosie Grant made the trip to North Louisiana in search of a grave—O’Neal Bogan “Peony” Watson’s grave to be exact. Watson had died in 2005, and when her family was deciding on her epitaph, a friend suggested they display her famous peach cobbler recipe.

Grant, who'd gone viral exploring the niche tradition of recipes published on grave markers across the U.S., had found a photograph of Watson’s grave online. She got off the plane in New Orleans, gathered the ingredients at a local grocery (flour, baking powder, sugar, butter, salt, milk, and peaches), and prepared the recipe in the Tulane University dorm room where she was staying. Then she took the cobbler on a fourhour drive to the New Ebenezer Cemetery in Castor, Louisiana. Standing before Watson’s grave, she took her first bite.

This month, Grant’s cookbook, To Die For: A Cookbook of Gravestone Recipes, will include the recipe, along with thirty-nine others sourced from gravestones across the country. You can find the book at harpercollins.com and follow Grant’s videos @ghostlyarchive on Instagram and TikTok.

Mayflower Café in Jackson, MS is the oldest restaurant on the 2025 New York Times list of the 50 best restaurants in the United States. Image courtesy of Mayflower Café.

Introducing, CuGino

Gene Todaro, the man behind the beloved Lafayette (and formerly Baton Rouge) institution Marcello’s, wants you to meet his cousin—or as they say in Italian, CuGino. The title of his newest concept is also a Sicilian play on his own name, “Cu” meaning “with”—so you’re dining “with Gino.” The new restaurant is set to open in October on South College Road in Lafayette in partnership with restaurateur Hunter Moody (of Sonny’s BBQ in Baton Rouge). Under the direction of head chef Mal Tossell, the menu will feature a rustic Italian selection with Sicilian influences—think lasagna and veal, as well as meatballs made in the traditional Sicilian fashion. Stay up to date on the latest on Instagram @cuginolafayette

The Best Places to Eat in the USA

The votes are in! Last month, The New York Times announced its annual list of “50 Best Places to Eat in America Right Now”—an endeavor that enlists fourteen reporters and editors to put down more than 200 meals in thirty-three U.S. states in search of institutions offering “delicious food and mastery of craft, but also a generosity of spirit and a singular point of view.” Our region is frequently represented (hard to overlook the big-hearted, big-bellied South), and this year is no different. In New Orleans, the Times’s reviewers selected two restaurants, one old with new blood and one new with old tastes.

Emeril’s, a thirty-five-year-old institution in New Orleans, met the Times’s expectations of legacy even as it impressively pivots under the leadership of the younger Lagasse, with a new tasting menu to boot. Then, out in Algiers, one finds Melissa Martin’s newest endeavor, the hidden, historic oasis that is Saint Claire—which also made the list with its rustic take on South Louisiana classics, which true to Martin’s oeuvre, are local to the bone.

The oldest restaurant on the list can be found due north, in Jackson, Mississippi—where Hunter Evans’s sleek takeover of the ninety-year-old Mayflower Café continues to be the talk of the town. Crucially, the comeback sauce has stayed on the menu, but now you can use the restroom without climbing up the outdoor stairs. As reviewer Brett Anderson put it, “The old downtown seafood house is once again a great one.” Read the full article at nytimes.com.

A Speakeasy at Circa 1857

The word between the shelves is: Baton Rouge is getting a speakeasy. In September, owners of the vintage décor mecca Circa 1857 announced a glamorous addition to their sprawling treasureland off Government Street. By the end of the year, the antique dealers plan to open an elevated cocktail bar, styled with all the eclecticism and elegance of their showroom. Expect vintage glassware, a lounge, and craft cocktails offered most evenings—with hours briefly overlapping the shop’s, offering a tantalizing browsing experience accessorized by aperitifs. circa1857br.com

South-Bound, Again

Back in October, 1997, an article in this magazine entitled “Last of the Great Roadhouses” reported that the South of the Border restaurant was about to mark its fiftieth anniversary with “a night on the house.” On October 30, the article said, both restaurant and bar would offer free food and drinks, a band would play in the “Party Room” (where the blackjack tables used to be), and the night would celebrate Ms. Martha Venson, who had been sending house favorites like Southern fried catfish, beef tenderloin, and fried green tomatoes with crawfish Nyma sauce out of the Border’s kitchen for all fifty of those years. Already the restaurant, which had stood on Highway 61 since 1947, was a beloved stopover for generations of travelers—both those coming south from formerly dry Wilkinson County in search of a drink, and north from St. Francisville, drawn to the blazing “Restaurant/Lounge” marquee sign, and Ms. Martha’s fried catfish and mustard greens, like moths to a flame. So, it was a gloomy day when, in early 2023, the “Restaurant/Lounge” sign went dark for the first time in seventy-six years, and the Border closed, apparently for good. No surprise, then, when the marquee lights suddenly came on again in August, there was great rejoicing. “People are just so happy to see it open,” said Barrett Hollingsworth, the Border’s new owner. “Everybody has a story. They come in and tell me they got engaged here, or they met their future husband here. One lady hugged me awkwardly for, like, three minutes.” When you resurrect an institution, this comes with the territory, and Hollingsworth, a Zachary native who has called St. Francisville home for a decade, knows better than to mess with what works. He’s concentrated on updating the premises, not the menu. Kitchen, bar, and dining room have all gotten a much-needed facelift. And although Martha Venson is admittedly no longer at the stove, the catfish, mustard greens, and fried dill pickles with ranch dressing all taste as good as ever. At press time, Hollingsworth was reinstating old favorites to the menu a few at a time, and adding a few updates as he went. 11 am–9 pm Thursday—Saturday, 11 am–3 pm Sunday at 14945 US Hwy 61. Expanded menu and opening hours coming soon. theborder1947.com

OUR SUSTAINABLE GARDEN

Outdoors

The Gardener's Digital Toolkit

EXPERT-BACKED ONLINE RESOURCES FOR NAVIGATING PLANT KNOWLEDGE IN THE AI ERA

Dhden by New York Times columnist Margaret Roach, I happened upon an episode with Rebecca McMackin, another powerhouse of horticultural knowledge within the realm of ecological thought. Their brief but informative conversation pertained to online plant resources in the current era of dependency on information generated by AI and shared via social media—a time when the web has captured our minds entirely, or are at least giving a solid college try at it. They discussed a problem I’ve also observed increas-

ingly often: the vast amount of totally false and incorrect

As I said in July’s column of “Our Sustainable Garden,” I believe books will forever be the absolute best resource when it comes to acquiring plant knowledge, but I know better than to stand proudly upon my soapbox. Our modern Internet Age has its positives, too. When you know where to look, and who to trust, the web offers excellent resources to place in your toolbox that are perhaps less cumbersome than a canvas tote of hardcovers (many of you are likely reading this very story online as we speak).

The following is a curation of digital resources created and sustained by experts in the field, years of studies, and research-based knowledge continually checked and balanced. Many of these sites are maintained by old-school institutions whose goal is to study and share knowledge, and others by passionate observers and scientists who have dedicated their work to the study of native flora. Below, I've curated a selection of resources I've personally found useful, as well as have been recommended to me by experts like Roach and McMackin.

Societies

You can find a society out there dedicated to any plant group you can fathom. I love utilizing plant society resources and have often leaned on their knowledge when it comes to difficult ID or disease questions. Often, there are local chapters you can connect with in person and even join. Every single time I’ve reached out to these groups, I have gotten a quick, enthusiastic, and informative response. Why not contact the nerds who would want to talk about their favorite plant species the most? Just a week ago, when a tree friend and I could not identify an Asiatic oak for the life of us, I contacted the International Oak Society for help. Within hours, I received a request for photos, and they confirmed the identification: Quercus glauca. Like I said, there is likely a society for any group of plants you are interested in. The following are a handful that I have learned considerably from:

• International Oak Society internationaloaksociety.org

• American Fern Society amerfernsoc.org

• Azalea Society of America azaleas.org

• American Camellia Society americancamellias.com/education-and-camellia-care

• Herb Society of America herbsociety.org

• Louisiana Native Plant Society lnps.org

• Folsom Native Plant Society folsomnps.org

Government Agencies

Two government databases that I frequent are the ones organized by the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service and Wetlands Aquatic Research Center within the US Geological Survey. Another incredibly cool reservoir of knowledge I learned about from McMakin is the USDA’s Silvics of North America website—a treasure trove for tree enthusiasts.

• USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service plants.usda.gov

• Wetlands Aquatic Research Cente warcapps.usgs.gov/

• USDA Silvics of North America research.fs.usda.gov/silvics

Story by Jess Cole

Photo by Beth Kleinpeter.

Plant Finders & Databases

And here: a grand list of my favorite plant finders. For a decade, my most used native plant database has been the one operated by the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. I once met the man who runs it, all on his own, Joe Marcus, and it was as if I met my celebrity hero. The fact that one man is behind the database blew my mind. Another cool resource from the list below is the Audubon Society’s database, through which you can look up a native plant and learn directly how it benefits birds. There is plenty of overlap between these sites, but they all have various and differing findings to offer, including plantfinders, range maps, scientific research, and so on.

• Go Botany gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org

• Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center wildflower.org

• The Biota of North America Program bonap.org

• Missouri Botanical Garden missouribotanicalgarden.org

• Native Plant Society of America Database nanps.org/native-plants-database

• Audubon Society audubon.org/native-plants

• Native Plant Finder nativeplantfinder.nwf.org/plants

October Plant Spotlight: Sambucus nigra,

Elderberry

I’ve never even seen elderberry, often seen as a "weed," sold in a nursery in the South, despite its well-known medicinal value—not to mention the plant’s dainty white flower and deep purple berries, which attract slews of pollinators and offer great food sources for wildlife. It is a fast grower with a colonizing tendency, though I have trained many into a standard/ single trunk form and used them as small trees within the home landscape. I make a hot tea from the elder flowers and a spiced medicinal syrup from the berries each year. I have friends that hollow out the branches and make flutes with their children. It's a great native that has much to offer!

• Mount Cuba Center mtcubacenter.org/native-plantfinder

Dave’s Garden Botanary

And I save my favorite, and newest, for last. Thanks to McMakin, my latest obsession is the “Botanary” from Dave’s Garden. With this search engine, you

can type in any botanical/Latin word, and it will not only give you the English translation, but also various examples of the word in use, as well as its pronunciation. The more knowledge one gathers of the Latin names of plants and their families, the more one is able to understand and communicate about plants as a whole. It’s like a secret code, delineating

the descriptive patterns Linnaeus used in the system he created hundreds of years ago. The Dave’s Garden website as a whole, aside from The Botanary, is an incredible wealth of plant, insect, and bird information.

• Dave’s Garden, Botanary davesgarden.com/guides/ botanary 1

Elderberry photo by Jess Cole.

Culture

54 A HORSE SANCTUARY IN ST. HELENA PARISH HOLDS REMARKABLE HISTORY // 58 LEGENDS OF THE FRENCHTOWN BRIDGE // 60 THE REALITIES OF RECOVERING, EMBALMING, AND SHIPPING THE DEAD IN CIVIL WAR NEW ORLEANS

The journey to Overton Estates, nestled amid the abundant, towering pines growing along the dusty backroads of St. Helena Parish, must be undertaken deliberately—a thoughtful, if meandering, retreat into East Louisiana’s woods. This winding return to the forest cannot happen by accident; a traveler must choose their destination with care, follow the directions closely, and drive through the unbroken arboreal alleys of blue sky with a will.

It was here that William Overton must have found some kind of fragile safety. According to family legend, the Overton patriarch arrived in Greensburg, Louisiana in the mid- to late nineteenth century.

“My grandmother says, when they would ask him where he was from, he would tell them he ‘came from the bushes,’” recalled Larry Overton, William’s great-great-grandchild. “He was definitely a runaway slave, and they knew that, but they literally knew nothing more about where he came from.”

How the land came into his hands remains a mystery, but under William, the seeds of what would someday evolve into more than three hundred acres of Black-owned property were planted. In the decades that followed William’s arrival in St. Helena Parish, his son, Fred Overton, shouldered the hard work of expanding the estate. A sharecropper, Fred ultimately acquired more than one hundred acres of land through tax sales, adding significantly to William’s initial tract—at one point portioning out some of the property to other sharecroppers for them to support their families.

But Fred Overton’s legacy extends beyond his efforts to accumulate land. According to Larry, in the 1960s, Fred organized Black voters to get them to the polls, despite alleged threats from the Ku Klux Klan.

He and his wife Daisy raised thirteen children, each of whom attended and graduated from a university. When

Roots in the Pines

IN GREENSBURG, AN EQUINE SANCTUARY BUILT ON A RICH FAMILY LEGACY

Story by Jacqueline DeRobertis-Braun •

Photos by Molly McNeal

they were growing up, after witnessing white children harassing them on their several-mile trek to the only Black school in the area, Fred built a school on Overton property. In addition to his own family, he invited any Black child who might have to walk a great distance for an education to attend (including the “Soul Queen of New Orleans” herself, Irma Thomas, during her childhood in Greensburg). He called it New Star School, even purchasing a bus so Daisy could ferry children safe-

ly to and from the building each day. After one of his daughters graduated from Southern University, she returned home to work at the school—where she taught both her father and mother how to write their names. New Star School was demolished in the 2000s after sustaining severe damage during Hurricane Katrina, though the site remains marked by an ancient oak tree.

Today, Overton Estates encompasses more than three hundred acres of land.

A new generation is poised to trans-

form the property into a site that honors its history while re-envisioning its future.

It was a bright September morning when I visited the estate, the warm, breezy air suffused with the scent of grass clippings, pine needles, and the cloying—though not wholly unpleasant—suggestion of horse manure. In the years since Fred Overton’s death in 1968, his 33-yearold great-grandson Larry Overton has

transformed a portion of the estate into a horse sanctuary, offering trail rides, lessons, and a horsemanship clinic.

Other family members remain on the property in their own homes up and down Charlie Overton Road, which bisects the estate land.

“Horses were very influential for me—they were very peaceful for me,”

Larry spent his weekends in Greensburg with his grandparents. “My parents did not want us to have a traditional city lifestyle. They wanted us to still be connected to our roots,” he said. “I grew up in Kenner; in my mind, I was raised in Greensburg.”

The morning of our visit, Larry eagerly introduced me to the ten horses

has encountered). There’s two-year-old Thor, a friendly, spotted horse, who has his own paddock separated from the mares; then, across the road are Gypsy, Beignet (loves to have her rump patted), Azula (a former racehorse), Lucky (an eight-year-old miniature horse), and Harley Quinn (loves apples, watermelon—and attention), among others.

Larry explained. “Sometimes we have to find something that breaks us away from the everyday hustle of what we’re doing. And horses do that.”

Although he grew up in Kenner,

tates—all rescues (my horse-loving colleague/photographer Molly McNeal assures me they are some of the sweetest and gentlest horses she

Their amicable temperaments make them approachable for those who have never ridden, or even seen, a horse before.

The juxtaposition of equine companionship against the physical grandeur of a large, strong animal is what inspired Larry to make horses a focal point of his family’s land in the first place. While attending Southeastern University, Larry was part of a mentoring program in which he wanted to expose his mentees to something outside of their comfort zone.

“We had a group of African-American men who had never been to the

to a small pond lives seventeen-year-old Essence, who helps keep the baby of the group—Bayou Belle—in check.

country, because they’re from the city,” he said. “I brought them to the country, and just the experience of them seeing the horses, being afraid

at Overton Es

of the horses, and then working through the fear of getting on the horse … I think that’s what made me realize we have something special at Overton Estates that most people don’t truly experience.”

Today, Overton Estates hosts horsemanship classes for students involved in 4-H, supported by the Buffalo Soldiers Horse Riding Club of New Orleans, of which Larry is a member. Historically, the Buffalo Soldiers were United States Army regiments made up exclusively of Black soldiers, tapped to serve on the frontier in the nineteenth century. Today, the social club bearing the soldiers' moniker, which rides in eight to ten parades each Mardi Gras season, is “dedicated to excellence in horsemanship,” according to the club’s social media, while honoring the legacy of the Buffalo Soldiers (including the layered, painful history of removing Native Americans from their land). Larry expressed he also has hopes of developing a richer relationship with the Louisiana ASPCA, envisioning a future partnership combining rehabilitation with equine education.

“Overton Estates has always utilized horses, and horsepower,” Larry said, pointing out that the winding trail connecting the entrance of the property to the mares’ paddock was cleared by Fred Overton with a log and mule. The sinuous pathway,

surrounded by young trees already sporting early fall foliage, brush, blackberry and blueberry bushes, and grapevine, also has open sections for people to camp.

“I think that’s what gives Overton Estates its edge,” Larry said. “That stuff was there and was built by my great-grandfather and his family. I take pride in that part, because it’s kind of really cool when you walk through the trees and see the trails,

and wonder how he made this.”

“I’m really empowered to keep the legacy alive,” he added. “I’m always referencing my great-grandparents, grandparents. I feel like it’s very important for us to acknowledge our history.”

Near the front of the property sits a grassy, open space, still slightly dewy in the dappled morning light filtering through the tree canopy. Here, Overton Estates hosts annual spring and

fall festivals, with dedicated space for fire pits and grills for a barbecue. At the fall event, Overton provides more than 120 pumpkins to kids in the Greensburg community free of charge, along with horseback riding, hayrides, music, and a safe place to trick-or-treat. Spring brings an Easter egg hunt and barbecue competition.

Standing at the front gate of Overton Estates, with its well-appointed wooden sign bearing the property’s name and logo, regarding the freshly mown grass, the rippling treeline, and the empty road, it is easy to forget the significance of the property against the backdrop of such sweepiing tranquility and natural beauty. Yet, so many acres of Louisiana land in Black ownership for more than one hundred years—through Reconstruction, Jim Crow, and the Civil Rights Movement—demands a reckoning, an acknowledgement.

Larry knows this. When he’s not talking horses or community, inspiring kids to find their spark in 4-H, or waxing eloquent about the idyllic repose of country living, he speaks his family’s story again and again—imbuing the land with the voices, journeys, and histories of its past. Blessing it.

“You can’t erase legacy,” he said. “You can’t erase history. All you can do is carry it forward.” 1

theovertonestates.com

Larry Overton has transformed a section of his family's property into an equestrian sanctuary, offering trail rides, horsemanship classes, and other equine experiences.

Frenchtown Frissons

HOW A LOUISIANA CROSSING BECAME A CANVAS FOR GENERATIONS OF HAUNTED LORE

Story by Camille Doucet

“Iwhen you drive under this bridge, you temporarily die,” I whispered to a friend one night. We were preparing to cross over the storied Frenchtown Bridge on our way to the Conservation Area.

“Why would you say that? Why would you say that?” she shrieked.

“Drive, just drive! Hurry!” We both erupted into giggles, before emerging, apparently uncsathed, on the other side.

This frisson associated with the Frenchtown Bridge has been a badly kept secret in Central, Louisiana for decades. Most people have a similar story: “I went out one night with some friends in high school; we’d heard the bridge is haunted. I didn’t see anything, but there was definitely something … creepy about it.”

Often, these tellings are also flavored by the hazy tapestry of underage drinking, cigarette smoking, some daredevil shenanigans. Many of us had lied to our parents about

group of friends had a designated storyteller, someone who knew the “truth” about the area, enchanting the rest with ever-embellished tales.

It was a popular prank for the driver to suddenly “stop” and claim their car wouldn’t start up again, right beneath the bridge. Personally, the most terrifying thing I've witnessed on the bridge was a large banana spider falling on my fiancé's forehead.

The Frenchtown Bridge is the entrance to a picturesque 497.77-acre park on the border of East Baton Rouge, nestled between the Amite and Comite rivers. Frenchtown Road is winding and rural, but it does not hold a candle to the sense of remoteness inside the park itself. When you arrive, you step out of your car into a cacophony of crisp whirs and chirps. It is a doorway to a less constructed past—untouched forestland just a five-minute drive from Central’s growing community and Baton Rouge’s urban sprawl. Officially established as a conserva-

tor's Center opened earlier this year, “The Land Between the Rivers” is home to a rich diversity of flora and fauna, carefully maintained by BREC. But before that, it was simply untamed wilderness—which likely contributed to the area’s sense of mystery and unease.

The eeriness is perhaps enhanced by the storytelling's lack of grounded history. Everyone knows a different tale of the Frenchtown bridge and its surrounding wilds. Still, to this day, people report feeling watched by someone or something lurking at the edge of the woods as they drive down the road. A friend in high school sat in my kitchen and expressed horror over a social media post depicting some of our peers jumping off a bridge further down the railroad tracks. She had heard that it was the site of a hanging. Central residents on Facebook exchange theories of buried pirate treasure in these woods. My older cousin and I both had it in our heads that a

quick Reddit search will yield countless anecdotes, and while there are some shared motifs, each is wholly its own, with no detectible origin besides, “I heard this from someone or read this somewhere.” My neighbor believes all the lore can be traced back to teenagers running amok in the 1970s.

There is indication, though, that a thread of the mythos emerged slightly later, during the Satanic Panic of the 1980s and 1990s, when reports of devil worshippers practicing their rituals near the bridge spread through the town. They allegedly wore dark, pointy hoods and sacrificed animals. My older cousin cringed as she relayed the story of a high school friend who once saw a decapitated pig’s head swinging from the bridge one night. Graffitied pentagrams, faded marks of the beast, and other Luciferian tributes marking the sides of the bridge have, for decades, driven this story forward.

Some rumors can be relatively easily debunked, such as a popular one about a school bus full of children that was hit by a train, their ghosts haunting the area forevermore. The truth is that it would not be physically possible for a school bus to drive on top of the area’s train tracks.

The enduring mystery of a headless horseman who called the bridge home appears to have an explanation, too. My friend’s mom, one of the original members of ‘the Frenchtown Bridge is haunted’ generation, explained that the horseman appeared on foggy days during the 1970s. She recounted how she and her friends would drive to the Frenchtown bridge after church and swap stories of this decapitated apparition. Years later, she shared this story with her fatherin-law, who laughed and said, “That wasn’t a headless horseman! That's my old hunting partner!"

Whatever the origin is, the mythos of the bridge certainly doesn’t precede the 1970s. For older Central residents, those whose teenage years predate that decade, the Frenchtown area and its bridge are a treasured natural and historical site, nothing

more. This was a revelation to me. When I contacted our town’s pictorial historian to learn more about the area’s history, she was confused by my questions; she had never heard of any Frenchtown hauntings. A former schoolteacher who has written about local history for the paper found my inquiries amusing, but quickly dis -

explained by cultural differences between “boomers” and “Gen X” growing up in the area. The woods aren’t scary and obscure to people who grew up in a less commercial world. The forest has always held secrets, but it was not so unfamiliar to earlier generations; just another part of the landscape. A gentleman riding his

"THE FOREST HAS ALWAYS HELD SECRETS, BUT IT WAS NOT SO UNFAMILIAR TO EARLIER GENERATIONS; JUST ANOTHER PART OF THE LANDSCAPE. AN OLDER GENTLEMAN RIDING HIS HORSE NEAR THE WOODS WAS NEVER THE STUFF OF URBAN LEGENDS, UNTIL IT WAS."

missed any notion that Frenchtown was spooky. When I told my friends about these conversations, they shared my shock. How could this ghastly collection of stories be chuckled about and dismissed? How could anyone from Central not know the bridge is haunted?

This generational shift might be

horse near the woods was never the stuff of urban legends, until it was. The times, they were a-changing in the 1970s—with new ideas on everything from gender roles to the development of land, proceeded by an ever-growing disassociation between people and the natural environment. The cultural relationship between

the community and the surrounding forest was evolving. The shifting of social norms, especially in more traditional areas such as our small southern Louisiana town, brought new fears and anxieties that humans, as they have done since the beginning of time, explained through storytelling. The Frenchtown bridge was a place that could be accessed, but it was uncomfortable, a path to the unknown. It’s not hard to see why young people from a conservative area, who were unfamiliar with “the wild,” would unintentionally create urban legends about a slew of spooky somebodies. It was, after all, during this era that many of our favorite urban legends (Bloody Mary, the Kentucky fried rat, “The call is coming from inside the house!”, etc) emerged. And as oral histories have since the beginning of time, the lore continues to evolve and entertain with each new generation.

In my search to find out “what really happened at Frenchtown,” I have learned that it’s simply what always happens; people bridge the gaps of what’s unknown, with stories. 1

The Price of Dying

THE BUSINESS OF THE UNDERTAKER IN CIVIL WAR ERA NEW ORLEANS

Story by Dave McCormick

WCivil War, what happened to his body? As if the grief associated with a son’s death weren't difficult enough, a soldier’s family was typically responsible for retrieval of his body if they hoped to give him a decent burial at home, rather than under unfamiliar sod miles away.

The challenges of transporting the dead were especially difficult in the semi-tropical climes of Louisiana, where disease ran rampant. In the spring of 1862, when the Union forces navigated down the Mississippi, occupying New Orleans and its environs, their troops began to suffer high mortality rates, more from disease than even in battle.

bodies long enough to get them home for burial, families sought out the services of undertakers, such as William Robertson Bell. Born in Scotland in 1814, Bell immigrated to New Orleans sometime in the 1830s and opened a livery stable. Though it is unknown where Bell received his early training in embalming, by 1854, he was in the undertaking business. When the Union forces arrived, he was well-positioned in the business of cadavers, already having the horses and carriages needed to transport bodies and host funerals.

During the war, as thousands were dying, coffins became a crucial commodity. According to Bell’s invoices, most of the caskets he purchased were from Boston merchants, Peak and Pinkham. They had an unusual sales

larly adapted to the conveyance of the bodies from the seat of war.”

Bell and his colleague, William Phillips, didn’t work only in New Orleans, but also serviced bodies throughout Louisiana—often ferreting out the remains of soldiers in unidentified graves dug haphazardly after a battle. Letters about a young soldier’s death and the location of his burial might be the closest a family ever got to ever receiving their loved one’s remains.

A case in point was that of Sargent P. William Hadley. A letter sent from depot quartermaster clerk, Dominque Pochelu, at Brashear City, Louisiana on March 23, 1864, outlined the challenges faced in finding and identifying his body. According to hospital records, Hadley was originally interred

dreds of other unidentified corpses. Be cause the graves were unmarked, that’s where the trail ended. In another case, the body of a Union cavalry trooper from Camp Parapet would also lie undiscovered where he was interred at the burial ground of the hospital that treated him. In 1863, a South Carolina mother summed up a loss that never received the benefit of closure; it was “much more painful,” to give up a “loved one [who] is a stranger in a strange land.”

The bulk of orders Bell received to retrieve and transport bodies were from New England and New York families; most of these were commissioned through his agents in New York, Minett & Co. He also received a lesser number from those contacting

“Cold Harbor, Virginia. African Americans collecting bones of soldiers killed in battle, 1865.” Photo by John Reekie, compiled by Hirst D. Millhollen and Donald H. Mugridge.

him directly. Bell’s advertising for his undertaking business ran in New Orleans newspapers. But on at least one occasion, he received a free endorse-

ment when The Times-Picayune's August 17, 1864 edition indirectly touted a compelling reason for embalming a loved one: to ensure the soldier was actually deceased before burial. In the article, a deceased Black man, “Martin,” was brought to Bell’s undertaking establishment on Carondelet Street for the purpose of embalming. As Bell was just starting an incision at the brachial artery, Martin “came back to life.” Two days later, he was back at his workplace none the worse. This was better than any paid advertising. But another point not wasted on local readers was that Bell also served the Black community, a fact supported by a letter from the Corps d’Afrique Hospital dated August 25, 1864, stating that he would receive payment for his funeral services for two Black soldiers, M.D. Talbot and P. Goudin.

The shipping of bodies north to New

York or New England by steamer was a straightforward undertaking in Civil War New Orleans, but for families in the Midwest, it was a longer and more costly journey. It wasn’t until July 4, 1863, with the capture of Vicksburg, that the Union gained complete control of the Mississippi River. But even in Union hands, part of the river, with its shifting sandbars, was at times a terror to navigate, leaving many coffins to be shipped to New York, and then overland by railroad or freight wagon to their destinations in the Midwest. Embalming bodies or—when too decomposed—pickling them in alcohol, and sealing them in impregnable metallic coffins, turned out to be big business. By 1863, the cost skyrocketed from the early war price of $50 to Bell’s standard fees ranging from $75 to $125 in Louisiana (equal to around $2,000 or more, today). The price of dying had become more costly.

What’s more, much could go wrong in the process of disinterring and transporting soldiers’ bodies. Sometimes, remains didn’t arrive when scheduled, as was the case when the steamer Mississippi pulled into port without the body of Thaddeus Weems. On another occasion, the Mississippi scheduled to ship

coffins was instead ordered to transport troops to the front. Bodies sealed in their airtight metallic coffins might hang around one’s mortuary shop for months, or even years, for a number of reasons: the deceased soldier’s family had not the funds to pay for the body’s release, or a loved one simply had lost interest in shipping a body home. Such was the case of a Union captain who, after two years, was still taking up space in Bell’s shop. In this instance, the captain’s widow had found a new beau and had no interest in claiming the remains of her former one.

Despite the agonizing waits and high costs associated with disinterring, preparing bodies, and shipping them home, bereaved loved ones held Bell in high regard, and expressed great warmth towards him, often offering open invitations to their homes.

William R. Bell died in 1874. The correspondence left behind reveals the significant impact he and his work held in Civil War-era New Orleans. The words penned in the letters and invoices of his archive present a new perspective on the challenges faced by the Civil War undertakers as they worked to prepare the dead for their rightful final resting places. 1

William R. Bell (ca. 1814–1874) New Orleans undertaker and livery stable owner. William R. Bell Papers, mss 2117, 2118, Louisiana and Lower MS Valley Collections, LSU Libraries, Baton Rouge, LA.

STIRRING THE POT

Cajun Nights & Cast Iron Dreams

BOOTS ON THE GRASS AT THE GREATEST TASTING FESTIVAL IN ACADIANA

Story and photos by Christie Matherne Hall

It was after three on the 25th of October, a Friday afternoon, and I was booking it down I-10 West, headed from Baton Rouge to Lafayette. hI would never do such a thing without a good reason. It was the first day of the Blackpot Festival and Cook-Off, held at the Vermilionville Living History and Folk Life Museum.

Maybe you’ve heard of the Blackpot; maybe you haven’t. It’s a celebration of the inherent creativity in Southern home cooking, an incredibly diverse Cajun and folk music festival, and in my opinion, the greatest tasting festival in Acadiana, if not the state. The cook-off inspires camaraderie and creativity among its participants, with no limits on the number of team members, no complicated rules, and an affordable entry fee for teams—who can sign up as late as the day-of to compete. The only rule: entries must be cooked in a cast-iron pot.

The result of all that freedom is, first, a predictable level of chaos; and second, a Cambrian explosion of dishes—most of which are available for festivalgoers to taste—and it’s up to the teams to make sure enough is left for the judges. Some cook-off teams provide bowls and utensils, but they’re not required to. (The merch booth sells signature wooden bowls and spoons for tasting, but many revelers simply bring their own.) Teams aren’t even required to provide samples at all. Though, during my many, many rounds around the 2024 festival, I didn’t meet a team unwilling to share everything they were cooking.

And that’s the spirit of Blackpot: it’s generosity without expectation of reward; a two-day Cajun and folk jam that doesn’t go quiet until the wee hours of the morning; a joyous marathon of music and home cooking set beside the lazy Bayou Vermilion, which must turn to gravy by midnight on Saturday.

The festival is nearly two decades old, and I arrived for its eighteenth iteration around five in the evening. During the week prior, I had weighed the pros and cons of setting up my tent in the adjacent ball field for the weekend. Regardless of the season, camping is always a gamble in Louisiana—the unpredictable weather, the heat, and the mood of the biting bugs all threaten to make camping a clammy, itchy experience; one well-fried into my childhood memories. Ultimately, I wanted the full experience of Blackpot, though, and decided the best I could do was get there early enough to grab a premium tent spot.

I scored one next to the fence near the Vermilionville entrance. Despite my unfortunate proximity to a set of portable toilets (or “terlets,” as my camp neighbors said it), my home for the weekend was mostly shaded by a large oak tree—a stroke of luck in an

Gumbo by Team Everystuff' at Blackpot 2024.

exposed baseball field. When I arrived, folks were parking in ditches, staking out campsites, and pitch ing tents—tent villages in some cases, sweating through shirts in the hot afternoon sun, and popping the tops off the first cold ones of the evening. After my claim—and tent—were staked, I cracked open my own and held it against my red face for a while, before wandering into Vermilionville.

As much as the festival centers around Saturday’s big cook-off, make no mistake—Blackpot is also a true, blue music festival, and the live performances are the centerpiece on Friday night. The setting of the Vermilionville Living History and Folk Life Museum is a luxurious one in comparison to many other mu sic festivals in our region, with their multiple rented scaffolding stages set up in giant parking lots or pud dle-laden fields. Here, the musicians mostly perform within the permanent exhibits of the museum: the Schoolhouse, the Chapel, the main barn-style event stage, and one temporary stage setup at the front of the parking lot. The property is generously shaded by mature and sprawling oak trees, with all the stages connected by a meandering sidewalk.

the punishment line, “I will not speak French,” hung beneath the metaphorical weight of an oversized, antique American flag.

On Friday evening, with the sunset casting deep orange rays through the oak branches, I walked this sidewalk until it ended, passing rooms and porches overflowing with the sounds of fiddles and accordions and guitars and spoons clacking together. It felt less like a music festival and more like an evening stroll through a rural musicians’ village, long before electricity or parking lots were invented.

When I walked into the Schoolhouse, though, a chill went down my spine. Inside the recreated oneroom Acadian school, the Nashville-based folk duo Golden Shoals were aglow in lamplight, playing their intimate fiddle-and-guitar set. The backdrop was a large chalkboard graffitied a thousand times with

Afterward, I caught the tail end of a Cajun jam with the Holiday Playgirls on the porch of the Chapel, joining the crowd of people spectating and dancing on the lawn. Back up the winding path were the multi-Grammy-nominated Pine Leaf Boys, fronted by Grammy-winner Wilson Savoy, playing on the main stage. Back toward the baseball field, an informal Cajun jam had set up shop just fifty feet from my tent, and the hobby musicians were creating music every bit as enchanting as any professional band I had seen inside the actual festival. As the night wore on and, I assume, the jammers got drunker, someone started singing in fluent Cajun French.

The singing brought back a distant memory of

drifting awake at my parents’ house one summer morning to music and singing coming from the living room. One of my dad’s best friends was the late Cajun fiddler and guitarist, Dennis Boudreaux, who dropped by every couple of years to play music for and with my dad, and once stashed his instruments in my parents’ attic for safekeeping during a transitional time in his life. Boudreaux wrote and recorded music with bands like La Touche and Savoir Faire avec Paul Daigle, and he passed away too young, while playing music on stage at a New Year’s Eve event in 2008. Weeks later, I would be flipping through photos I’d taken of the jam session near my tent, and I’d realize the fiddler in the group was Dennis’s son, Jacques Boudreaux, clearly keeping something sacred alive. And I would wonder if his fiddle had ever spent a summer in my parents’ attic.

Left: Mandi Cambre of team Dame(s) de Font adds the numerous fresh greens into her Gumbo Z'Herbes. Right: The casual Cajun jam session starts playing on Saturday morning after a long and late Friday night.

The Blackpot Cook-Off

I woke up at six in the morning, as you do when the sun's baking your tent. I didn’t know exactly when the cook-off was going to start, but I didn’t have to; by half-past nine, the ball field smelled like any Louisiana mawmaw's house.

When I poked my head out, the Vermilionville parking lot was already overrun with canopies and propane tanks, plus a veritable traffic jam—and of course, folks were already cooking. Cook-off winners are selected in five categories: gumbo, jambalaya, gravy, cracklin’s (or gratons), and dessert. There are no mandatory ingredients for any category, and the gravy category is intentionally vague, allowing imaginations to flourish.

Believe me when I say you’d be a fool to eat anything before you get to Blackpot on Saturday. If you get their early enough, a walk around the parking lot on cookoff morning will likely earn you some breakfast. On my first lap, scrambled eggs and bacon sizzled alongside pork chops and Boston butts; pancakes and breakfast sausages fried on griddles; and beers a-plenty opened for business, well before noon. The first thing I tasted was team Vidrine Dream’s blueberry lemon sweet rolls, which were cooked in cast iron, per the Only Rule, giving the bottoms an incredible brown crispiness. I wandered past one group that was frying big slabs of something, and I asked if the slabs were going into a gravy. “Nah, these are gar steaks,” he said. “This is just for snacks.”

Many of the teams present were repeats from prior years—and some were even former champs. Team Everystuff showed off their former wins with a tall wooden shelf displaying multiple previous trophies—the lids of the cast iron pots traditionally awarded to Blackpot champs. Team Coonassty, who wore matching jumpsuits embroidered with their team’s logo, were selling stickers of it. One team decided to use the Blackpot festival as a family reunion venue, and I saw a handful of teams representing restaurants and catering companies.

Every Blackpot-goer knows, or quickly learns, to watch for the lines forming

A creative team sign hangs in front of The Two Grimees' booth.

Mandi Cambre of team Dame(s) de Font ladles out samples of Gumbo Z'Herbes.

outside of booths; that’s how you know when the gumbos, gravies, and other goodies are coming off the heat. As the afternoon wore on, slowly but surely, the lines began to appear. I ate my heart out: smoked meatball gravy with sweet peas from Mermentau Outlaws, Team Everystuff’s gravy and gumbo, pork backbone stew from team Put The Dogs Outside, duck and sausage gumbo from A-Town Podnuhs, pork vindaloo (for the gravy category) from Savory

Sisters, and gumbo z’herbes from Dame(s) de Font. One festival-goer put it best: “I’m not gonna have to eat again until Monday.”

In my experience, the longer the line, the more interesting, tasty, or fried the sample. Case in point: the longest line I waited in was the beignet line. The cooks in team Put The Dogs Outside could only serve the crowds as fast as each batch of dough took to fry in the big cast iron pot. The sweat I sacrificed wait-

ing in that line was more than worth it—the beignets were served over a divine sweet potato custard.

There wasn’t a dry shirt at Vermilionville by two in the afternoon, but something about sweating a gallon in ten minutes enforces the present moment, anyway—and if you do stray too far from the moment here at Blackpot, an oak tree root will soon be underfoot to trip you back into the now.

Soon enough, the festival organizers began their

SWEET THINGS TO DO

Donaldsonville Farmers Market | Oct. 4

Rhea Lana’s Consignment | Oct. 4 - 8

A Tribute to Ozzy Osbourne: Iron Legacy | Oct. 11

Mad Hatter’s Gala | Oct. 16

Ralph’s Market Fall Wine Gala | Oct. 17

St. Mark Catholic Church Fall Festival | Oct. 17 - 18

Boucherie & Balloon Festival | Oct. 17 - 19

Gonzales Fall Festival | Oct. 26

La Fete des Bayous | Oct. 30 - Nov. 2

Boots on The Bayou Music Festival | Oct. 31 - Nov. 1

Merry Market of Louisiana | Nov. 7 - 9

View our full calendar of events!

Golden Shoals perform at the Schoolhouse.

Brent Miller's pork jambalaya.

Boucherie & Balloon Festival

pot submission vessel: a cardboard Amazon box on the back rack. One of the organizers on the golf cart waved me over and asked if I wanted to go to the judging room. I almost spit out my beer.

The Judging

I’m not sure why I was expecting a quiet reprieve from the boisterous festival outside, but the judging room—a private space for large

parties in the back of the museum’s restaurant, La Cuisine de Maman— seemed louder than the festival. There were roughly thirty judges, split into groups and each assigned to a cook-off category, and these people were having a great time. The gravy category had the most entries by far, while the cracklin’s ( gratons) table was pretty thin, with four or five entries, each stashed in its own grease-spotted brown bag bearing only a number. Each judge gives each entry three numeric grades: for presentation, taste, and an overall score, with a line to

leave notes. Some of the judges had been in this room before; others were new. And one, sitting at the cracklin' table, wasn’t a judge at all.

Amidst all the noise, this imposter judge had slipped in unnoticed. She was exposed when the other judges saw her scoring sheet, where she had written things like “Meh,” and “Yes, baby!” instead of numbers, and she was promptly booted out. (If anyone’s wondering, it’s clear she preferred team three’s take on cracklin's, and I did get a photo of her.)

Despite the imposter, the judging rolled forward, sans the phony scoring sheet, with the cracklin’s table finishing first. The desserts table seemed to have the happiest disposition, no doubt due to all the dopamine, while the jambalaya judges struck me as the sternest of all the judging groups. The gumbo table had a difficult time scoring—the entries were all slam-dunks; ask me how I know—but the gravy table truly had their work cut out for them. The nineteen gravy entries in-

cluded enough knockout Sunday-atya-Mamere’s-house gravies and sauce piquants to feed an army of petit-enfants; but they also had to score the more creative entries, such as birria tacos (yes, really) and vindaloo, alongside all that tradition. All the other judging tables were long finished by the time the gravy category was settled—and by then, we had been in that room for well over an hour, if not two. Cook-off organizer Adam Hebert was still hunched over the scoring sheets with a calculator when I left the room with the gravy judges, all of us rounder than when we entered.

The Party

Blackpot is held on the last weekend of October, so of course there’s a costume contest to close down Saturday night. When I had passed someone dressed as a literal interpretation of “I’m all ears” earlier that afternoon, I had not yet been aware of that; but as the day wore on, more and more costumed revelers came out of the woodwork (or their tents, or the terlets), and by sunset, the main stage barn was full of hipsters, over-tired kids, and elder two-steppers dressed as various creatures and food items. With costumed audience at the ready, The Daiquiri Queens took over and put everyone’s waning stamina to the test. The air sizzled with sweat

Left: Member of Team Coonassty. Right: The Savory Sistas (Kelly Richard and Molly Briggs) prepare their catfish courtbouillon vindaloo for the gravy category.

and heat. Festival-goers young and old swung each other around like delirious children, everyone simultaneously light of heart and heavy of gravy.

Long after many of the cooks had either gone to bed or blown past the sensible period of a marathon drinking day, the cook-off winners were announced at around 9 pm. Team Everystuff took home another first-place pot lid for their chicken and sausage gumbo; Coonassty and their matching janitorial jumpsuits swept the jambalaya category; Lache Pas Boucherie won the coveted gravy category with their duck sauce piquant (notably, the Savory Sisters’ vindaloo took second); Lache Pas Le Cochon took home first place for cracklins, and Good Lard Almighty’s cinnamon rolls won best dessert. Team King Cobra was crowned with a golden paper chef’s hat for the Peoples’ Choice award.

After the winners shuffled offstage with their prizes, The Revelers— some of whom are founders of Blackpot—took the wheel. Sometime between the Daiquiri Queens’ set, the announcement of the cookoff winners, and The Revelers’ performance, is when I suspect Bayou Vermilion turned into sauce piquant.

Back in my tent, whatever was left of me melted onto my sleeping pad.

where outside my tent, and I once again drifted off to sleep with the help of the perpetual Cajun jam session. By the time I was packed up and headed back east on Sunday morning, the fiddle playing in my head was more intense than a simple earworm—rather, it felt like that cool whole-body feeling you get after being in the ocean all

day, where the waves tug on your equilibrium long after you’ve washed the sand out of your butt.

Blackpot is not for the faint of heart (seriously, don’t go if you have heart issues), but it is for the hungry of mouth and soul. It’s three to five days of food simmered into a single Saturday, and even as it nears the twenty-year mark,

it’s still far from a tourist attraction. On cook-off Saturday, I ran into a friend who I know to be a vegetarian, and when I wondered what she was able to eat at Blackpot, she said, “This is the only day of the year I eat meat.” If you’re going to pick one day a year to eat meat, save it for Blackpot. 1 blackpotfestival.com

Yellow Leaf

10AM-5PM • PARKER PARK • ST. FRANCSIVILLE

SATURDAY 10/25

10-11am Katie Love

11am-12pm Carter Hampton

12-1pm Brandon McCranie & John Cooper

1:15-2:45pm Sammy Qadan Trio

3-4pm Lynn Drury

4-5pm Josh Garrett

SUNDAY 10/26

10-11am Ashley Orlando 11am-12pm Stanley & Peterson Jazz 12-1pm Ralph Miller 1-2pm Clay Parker & Jodi James 2-3:30pm Spoonfed Junior 3:30-5pm The Vagabonds

All of this plus locally made food available for purchase at this free event!

The late night Blackpot crowd dances to The Daiquiri Queens.

All Aboard the Mardi Gras Express

Story by Beth D'Addono • Photos by Molly McNeal

With the August 16 launch of the $200 million restored Gulf Coast Amtrak line— now dubbed the Mardi Gras Service—you can find yourself beachside, sitting at a James Beard award-nominated restaurant, or wandering through new museums as easily as you can say “all aboard.”

Going east and west, the journey from New Orleans has stops in Bay St. Louis, Gulfport, Biloxi, and Pascagoula, Mississippi before a final destination in Mobile, Alabama. The transportation option is affordable ($15 one way, $59 for business class), and fun—a literal joyride.

“This project has been more than fifteen years in the works,” said Knox Ross, chairman of the Southern Rail Commission. “We haven’t had service since before Katrina. It’s exciting for the region, with a positive effect on tourism every stop of the way.”

Embark

Although the New Orleans station is not the fanciest, it offers all the basic services: a ticket window (something none of the smaller stations have), a sandwich shop, and vending machines.

The best thing about the space is a spectacular wraparound mural by LSU art professor Conrad Albrizio. Unveiled in 1954, the public art project

"SOON,

Journey On

The train, with a shiny new locomotive engine car on each end, can bring up to 150 passengers, their luggage and, with advance notice, golf clubs and even pets in carriers on the journey. The café car, which includes booths popular with card players, offers soft drinks and basic booze, snacks, and a few New Orleans-flavored bites like pralines, Moon Pies, Zapp’s chips, and muffuletta wedges.

CITY GIVES WAY TO MARSHES AND COASTAL VIEWS, THE SCENERY UNSPOOLING BEFORE US. THE TRAIN PASSES OVER BAY BRIDGES, WITH WATER VIEWS ON EACH SIDE. FOLKS ALONG THE WAY ARE ALL SMILES, INSIDE THE TRAIN AND OUT, WHERE WAVES

ARE OFFERED FROM BEACH BARS AND FISHING BOATS. EVEN A GUY IN WADERS RAISED A HAND IN GREETING."

On a recent weekday at 7 am at the Union Passenger Terminal Amtrak train station in New Orleans, it felt like a party. The station was busy, full of clusters of girlfriends laughing and chatting, couples pulling rollaboards, and laptop toting business travelers getting a jump on their workdays.

illustrates the state’s history in four sixty-by-eightfoot panels hopscotching over 400 years of Louisiana history. Looking up is a great way to pass the time until the conductor makes his famous call.

Although all the cars have plenty of leg room, folks who opt for the business class car enjoy soft drinks and coffee free of charge.

Leaving the station in New Orleans, views start with streetscapes that from this vantage seem somehow unfamiliar (“Wait, is that St. Bernard Avenue?”) and snapshots of the Seventh Ward and New Orleans East, neighborhoods reframed by the click of the rails.

Soon, city gives way to marshes and sweeping coastal views, the scenery unspooling before us. The train passes over bay bridges, with water extending on each side. Folks along the way are all smiles, where waves are offered from beach bars and fishing boats. Even a cheerful guy in waders raised a hand in greeting, the other gripping a fishing pole.

Step off the Station

In Gulfport, the station is just a few blocks from Hotel Vela and Austin and Tresse Sumrall’s Siren Social Club restaurant, which they opened last Halloween and is reason enough to jump on that train. After dropping bags at the hotel (the morning train arrives before check-in hours) it’s time for exploring.

The Mississippi Aquarium, just a few blocks away, showcases aquatic wildlife both local and not, placing an emphasis on the Gulf and its inhabitants. Promising to be “the window to the waters of Mississippi, the Gulf Coast, and beyond,” the aquarium has large indoor exhibits, along with a colorful bird aviary, touch tanks for the kiddos, an otter habitat, and more. The main wow factor can be observed in a 360-degree plexiglass walkway that allows visitors to literally walk on water, observing sharks, sting rays, and other marine life from every angle. Little ones are treated like VIPs, with pint-sized viewing portals built just for them.

Afterwards, lunch at the nearby Murky Waters Barbecue offers the likes of waffle fries loaded with slow and low-cooked pulled pork and burnt ends with sides of collards, all portioned for the famished. The restaurant backs up to Fishbone Alley, an artsy street made bright with public art, cafés, and live music in the evenings.

After some chill time at the sixteen-room hotel, with its sleek retro vibe, the speakeasy awaits. McComb native Sumrall’s first culinary foray on the

coast was the gorgeous Gulf-to-table restaurant White Pillars in Biloxi, which has earned him two semi-finalist nominations for the James Beard Best Chef South Award.

When the prospect of Siren Social first came on their radar, Tresse, a Gulfport native, admits she was skeptical. “Gulfport isn’t the most bustling place for dining and nightlife on the coast,” she said. But, “the train is certainly going to help. There’s tons of potential here. Our place has become a destination—it feels like you’re on vacation here.”

Maybe it’s the thrill of what’s behind that nondescript door off the lobby—a portal to a world of Jazz Age-sipping and global dining. Start with a drink in the intimate bar area or outside on the lush patio. Although the cocktail menu is tiki-centric, the olive & pearl is a not-to-be-missed take on a dirty martini. Anchovy-infused Chopin, dashi-kombu brine, caviar stuffed olives, a hint of Calabrian chile oil, and a raw oyster sporting olive mignonette on the side adds up to epic.

For dinner, the chef offers sophisticated riffs on coastal seafood classics, along with swanky options like the Beef Wellington. Start with warm, salted yeast rolls with whipped satsuma butter and any of the house made pastas—the ravioli two ways with vodka sauce is divine. The 1,000-layer potatoes drizzled with basil pesto have their own siren call, as do the east and west coast oysters, three grades of caviar service with all the accoutrements, and an outstanding seared scallop dish adorned with caviar beurre blanc. Prices are on par with other fine dining experiences—with drinks, figure about $100 per person, although if restraint is possible, a glass of wine and a dish of excellent pasta runs around $30. Drinks and dinner are served Tuesday through Saturday from 5 until 10, making Siren ideal for happy hour, a sexy date night, or a late night bite. Not much was happening downtown after dinner on a Wednesday, but I wasn’t sad to stay at Siren for my drink on the patio. The Social Club is no doubt a

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Left: At The Mississippi Aquarium. Right: A mural in downtown Gulfport.

“We definitely have had some more guests make their way over on the train,” said Meagan Duncan, the general manager for the Hotel Vela and the Siren. “It’s so convenient. I think more people are looking for short and easy trips to make, and the train definitely fits that bill. As the weather gets cooler, I predict it will bring even more business both ways.” Duncan, whose past experience includes working in New Orleans at Hotel Chloe, said they hadn’t counted on the Mardi Gras Service’s impact when opening the hotel. “We are so lucky to have Siren and The Hotel Vela so close [to it], I know we’ll benefit.”

On the way back to New Orleans the next morning, the anticipatory mood prevailed as a handful of locals lined up for the trip home, or to visit the Crescent City. Valerie Yarbrough was one of them, a Gulfport resident giddy with the idea of taking her very first train ride. “I’m sixty-two and this is my first time,” she said. “My girlfriend got on in Pascagoula. We’re going to explore New Orleans for the day and eat lots of good food. Can’t wait.” 1 amtrak.com/stations/nol.

Photos left to right: Siren Social Club Restaurant, Hotel Vella, and Fishbone Alley— all in Gulfport, Mississippi

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PERSPECTIVES: ART OF OUR STATE

LYNDA FRESE’S

“Far Out”

SEARCH FOR THE SACRED IN OTHERWORLDLY COLLAGE

Story by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Whhen Lynda Frese talks about her work, she does so with a sense of curiosity—as though she is considering it for the very first time. She stands before a painting, recalling where she was when she made it, some initial intention or idea. When she speaks, she is unafraid of long pauses, of uttering “I think” before an interpretation of what is before her, as though the meaning is never set, never complete.

Her own work still stops her in her tracks sometimes, she says, referencing Joseph Campbell’s ideal of “aesthetic arrest”—art that holds you in a state of momentary transcendence, whether by its beauty, or by its mystery. And as much as she can glean about herself in these moments—her desires and investigations and states of being—Frese is also excavating revelations of the divine, the sibylline force working within her.

“It’s very mysterious,” she says. “When you really lock in, you’re tapping into something bigger than you. There are a lot of things that happen to you when you’re making art. You find things out about yourself, what you’re made of. And you don’t have to understand it completely. It’s not a thing you can figure out or take apart and put back together again. It’s a gift.”

Frese has been a working artist for nearing half a century, her realm a distinctive collision of photography, paint-

ing, and printmaking that bears thematic threads, across time, of mysticism, femininity, religion, and nature. Using the art of collage as a mechanism of layered storytelling, her compositions draw together photographs of her own encounters, scraps of imagery she collects like treasure, and otherworldly expressions of color derived from her hand-mixed egg tempera paints. Frese’s approach to the ancient technique is to mix egg yolks (sourced locally, wherever she is working) with earthen pigments—creating a specific “terroir” for each work.

She began using egg tempera paints a decade ago, in part because of her interest in the work of Italian Renaissance painters. But over time, she’s clung to it—noticing a specific quality it imbues in her collages. “I put different layers down, one after another, and I think what happens is the particles get trapped in these layers, and then the light goes between them, and it feels kind of gemlike—it has this very rich feeling to it, because you’re seeing a color, but you’re also seeing the light beneath the particles.”

For the past five years, Frese has been absorbed by interrogations of an extraterrestrial nature, motivated in part by the question: what might the wilderness witness when it is alone? Titling the series, Far Out, she constructs in each piece a natural world that exists outside of time, outside of space. Biomes from across the globe come together in a mythical dimension of particular light and chaos,

but crucially—beauty.

“In them, I’m exploring a world where humans aren’t the center of it all,” she said. “And where plants and animals have a kind of sentience and awareness.”

And into these worlds, Frese inserts entities that are mystery at their core, neither of nature nor of man: UFOs.

Though she didn’t realize it at first, Frese believes now that the project is a continuation of her earlier artistic inquiries of Madonnas and goddesses, Renaissance depictions of apparitions. “I think it’s this ongoing question of searching for . . . what is the sacred?” She went on, “In Renaissance paintings, there are always things coming down, lights, some kind of godly communication coming from another world. What other worlds are out there? What other dimensions?”

She started by pulling real “unidentified flying objects” straight from the Pentagon reports, and from NASA. When the images were complete, she’d observe them and wonder about these mysterious entities: “How long have they been here?” “Are they here now?” “Did they come long ago and never leave?” Then, she began to create her own celestial objects, exploring the infinite possibilities of what a UFO—this thing that is defined by what we cannot know of it—might actually look like.

“Something about collage is that you can create the narrative by manipulating the size of the imagery,” she said. “There isn’t any reason a UFO can’t be really

tiny. It could be underwater. It could be in the sky, or in the ground. It could be, you know, inside of you, I guess.”

Across her series, Frese’s UFOs take the form of a “traditional” flying saucer, as well as iridescent glimmers pressing from behind the forest’s shadow. In one work, a holographic child’s skull (clipped from a 1985 edition of National Geographic magazine) leads a trail of sequined, jelly-fish-esque baubles through a dense wood. In another, the mystery being manifests as scattered, golden lights over a body of water.

In, “Jungle Bath,” one of the few artworks from the series that features a human body, it is Frese’s own. She swims, naked, in a pool of water encircled by giant trees wrapped in vines and dripping with thick and indecipherable foliage. “Being alone in nature is like being in another dimension,” she said. “It doesn’t happen all the time, but when it happens, there’s something divine.”

In this work, we see the artist encounter what she imagines the plants do, as she looks up—stunned and alone—at something unexplainable. Here, the UFO is a diamond, floating enormous and still, just feet above the forest floor. It looks incongruous, but at the same time, it kind of doesn’t. You can see the leaves through it, the sun shining upon it.

How long has it been here? Is it here now? Did it come long ago, and never leave? 1

Artwork by Lynda Frese. Left: “Jungle Bath” ; Right: “Visitor.”