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The Pig in the Cotswolds at Barnsley, Cirencester, Gloucestershire GL7 5EE has special openings for the NGS on Monday 22nd and Tuesday 23rd September from 9.30am until 12.30pm, which includes a tour of the gardens at this former home of Rosemary Verey, which was previously known as Barnsley House.
The special private tour with the PIG garden team will be in the ornamental gardens designed by the renowned British gardener, starting with a hot drink and freshly baked pastries before heading for a private tour of the kitchen garden. Then there’s a private tour of Rosemary’s ornamental garden with its listed archways, potager gardens and a lush laburnum walkway that you won’t get to experience in other kitchen garden tours organised by the hotel. Visitors will
be free to explore the gardens and grounds for the rest of the afternoon.
Pre-booking is essential, at £50 per person, through the NGS website at www.ngs.org,uk
Narrow paths mean restricted wheelchair access but the hotel is happy to help; no dogs are allowed.
The gardens at Lords of the Manor Hotel, Upper Slaughter, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL54 2JD open for the NGS on Wednesday 17th September from 10am until 3pm, a classic Cotswold country garden with a very English blend of semi-formal and informal, it retains its elegance and charm under the new ownership, and merges beautifully with the surrounding landscape.
Besides the beautiful walled garden, there’s an established wildflower meadow, and the herb garden and stunning bog garden were designed by Julie Toll around 2012. Admission £8, children £5. Light refreshments are available, with prebooking essential for afternoon tea. There’s wheelchair access, dogs are allowed on short leads and being a hotel there’s accommodation.
www.ngs.org.uk
Bristol Botanic Garden stages its annual Apple Day on Sunday 5th October from 11am to 3pm. You can donate spare apples and be part of the botanic gardens project and enjoy a free cider! Apple Day aims to reduce wastage of garden apples, bringing together the community and The Cider Box taprooms for this one-day event at the botanic gardens.
Give your apples a rinse and bag them up. Bruised apples are fine but no rotten apples! Take apples from unsprayed tree-no pesticides or chemical treatments; homegrown or allotment apples are ideal. Drop off at one of the community hubs or take them to the gardens on the day and get free access. Apples will be collected from each hub for Apple Day. You can drop off apples at: UNIVERSITY OF BRISTOL BOTANIC GARDEN, Sunday 5th October, 11am until 3pm (Entry free if donating apples).
BRAMBLE FARM, Saturday 4th October, 11am until 3pm.
HILLFIELDS PARK COMMUNITY CENTRE, Thursday 2nd October, 9am until 3pm and Friday 3rd 9am12noon.
LOCKLEAZE NEIGHBOURHOOD TRUST, Friday 3th October, 9am until 4:30pm.
A five kg donation of apples will give you one bottle of cider which you can collect from The Cider Box in April 2026!
Malvern Autumn Show which takes place from 26th to 28th September remains the UK’s leading harvest season celebration. Held at the 90-acre Three Counties Showground in Malvern, Worcestershire, the event attracts visitors from across the UK and is one of the largest celebrations of its kind in England.
The highlights of this year’s show include the prestigious RHS Flower Show, the CANNA UK National Giant Vegetables Championship, the Great Malvern Cake Off, the Family Zone, a variety of special and celebrity guests - including BBC Gardeners’ World presenters Monty Don and Adam Frost - and the return of the popular ‘Dog Day’ on Sunday 28th September.
Tickets start from £22 in advance, with children aged 16 and under free.
Book at www.malvernautumn.co.uk
Every gardener needs pointy sticks, a gardening essential with endless uses. Discovering the right size stick to support our plants or finish a project gives us gardeners a lot of pleasure. Luckily, Herefordshire timber experts, Say it with Wood, have solved the sticky problem of finding good quality stakes and canes at reasonable prices. The sticks are cut from local woodlands as part of sustainable management and are made from naturally rot resistant species like sweet chestnut, oak and larch. Which is great news as they don’t need treating with nasty chemicals. Buying sticks directly contributes to the local economy, providing jobs and enhancing biodiversity.
Good value stakes and canes is Stick shop’s mission. Conveniently, Say it with Wood, keep a stock of sticks at their yard, or contact them to arrange delivery (tip – getting a few makes this more economical). Even better, the Stick Shop travels. Stick Shop can come to your allotment, gardening club or event, and can also give talks on woodland management and the importance of using local timber in your garden. Don’t miss out, contact Say it with Wood for more details or to buy sticks.
Tel: 07958345833 www.sayitwithwood.co.uk
September is more than a month. It is a season. It begins with the August’s leftovers and ends with October’s preparations HAL BORLAND
For several weeks now I have had the sense of something about to come to an end-that old September feeling, left over from school days, of summer passing, holidays nearly over, obligations gathering’ WALLACE STEGNER
Exmoor National Park
The programme of Rare Plant Fairs continues in September with a popular fair set in the beautiful grounds and gardens of Adwell House, near Thame, on Sunday, 7th September.
Adwell House is in an idyllic spot just on the edge of the Chiltern Hills. The current owner’s ancestors laid out the garden in the 19th century, and successive generations have continued to enhance and develop the gardens since then.
This fair has become established as a real favourite with the public. Visitors are greeted with a magnificent herbaceous border which sweeps around the drive. Proceeds will be donated to the horticultural charity Perennial, the UK’s only charity dedicated to helping everyone who works in horticulture, and their families.
Adult entry, which includes entry to the fair and garden is £7, with children under 16 free. The fair is open from 11am to 4pm.There is a great selection of specialist nurseries attending. Refreshments are available.
Full details, including a list of the nurseries online:
BROW COTTAGE, Seend Hill, Seend, Melksham, Wiltshire, SN12 6RU opens for the National Garden Scheme on Sunday 21st September from 2pm until 5pm, a half acre contemporary cottage garden owned by a garden designer and created over the past 25 years.
A garden of many harmonious parts with lawns, well-stocked borders, topiary, potager, sunken pool garden, wildlife pond, short woodland walk, species bulb and wildflower lawn and canopied dining area. Admission £5, children free. Teas available, wheelchair access and dogs allowed on short leads.
WELLAWAY, Close Lane, Marston, Wiltshire, SN10 5SN opens for the NGS on Saturday 13th and Sunday 14th September from 1pm until 5pm each day, a two- acre flower arranger’s garden with herbaceous borders, orchard, vegetable garden, ornamental and wildlife ponds, lawns and naturalised areas. Shrubberies and rose garden, other areas underplanted with bulbs or ground cover and extensive autumn colour. Admission £6, children free, with homemade teas available, plants for sale, wheelchair access, and dogs allowed on short leads.
An independent award-winning plant centre is encouraging customers to plant trees this autumn to create their own natural shade in the garden. Mark Moir from Newent Plant Centre in Ledbury, Herefordshire said: ”We have all struggled with the heat and intensity of the sun this summer, so we are encouraging our customers to create some shade by planting a tree this autumn.”
There are so many trees that are suitable for small gardens but will cast a dappled shade - this is great for sitting under where the temperature will be several degrees lower than in the direct sunshine.
Mark said, “I’d suggest a flowering cherry if you want a tree with wider spreading branches for sitting underneath, such as Prunus ‘Shirotae’ - the Mount Fuji cherry which has horizontal to slightly weeping branches and large semi-double white flowers which are also fragrant.”
“If you want something more upright to cast a shadow, how about a Mountain Ash Tree - I personally like the traditional native Sorbus aucuparia, with white flowers and deep red berries in autumn which are a great food source for the birds too. But there are several other noteworthy varieties that are adorned with yellow, orange. white or even pink berries.”
Autumn is also the very best time to plant trees as the soil is moist, the top of the tree has stopped growing for the season but the roots continue to grow to the end of December - so trees establish quicker and require less
watering the following spring and summer - although during longer dry spells it is a good idea to give them a weekly drench of water to ensure they don’t suffer.
“We have one of the largest selections of trees in the area,” added Mark. “We source them all from local growers in Herefordshire and Worcestershire - so their root systems are ready for our local conditions.”
Trees are also a great addition to the environment as they absorb carbon dioxide as well as being essential for all kinds of wildlife. Insects, bees, birds and mammals all rely on a range of trees for food and protection.
Newent Plant Centre is open seven days a week. Newent Plant Centre, The Nest, Hereford Road, Ledbury, Herefordshire HR8 2PZ
Tel 01531 670121
Blenheim Palace and Rowse Honey are celebrating after winning a top Government award recognising their commitment to protecting pollinators and enhancing biodiversity.
The duo have been named a Bees’ Needs Champion at an awards ceremony led by the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs. The awards aim to raise awareness of the importance of bees and other pollinators by recognising individuals, groups and organisations that have made exceptional efforts to support pollinators.
Starting in 2022, Blenheim Palace joined forces with Rowse Honey to deliver an ambitious conservation project to transform the Oxfordshire estate, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, into a thriving haven for pollinators, such as butterflies, honeybees, mining bees and damselflies.
As part of the initiative, 50 acres of former arable fields have been transformed into rich, biodiverse habitats, and 300 acres of new woodlands have been undersown with wildflower grassland. The project’s success has been clearly measurable, with over 740 colonies of wild bees, 23 species of butterflies, and the return of 11 nationally declining bird species, such as skylarks and song thrushes, to areas restored under the pollinator strategy. www.blenheimpalace.com/stories/rowse-pollinatorpartnership.html
The Frampton Country Fair, held annually at Manor Farm in Frampton on Severn, Gloucestershire (GL2 7EP), is one of Cotswolds most cherished rural events and takes place on Sunday 15th September. Set against the picturesque backdrop of the largest village green in England, the fair celebrates country life in all its traditional charm; it attracts thousands of visitors who come to experience a day packed with heritage displays, and countryside entertainment. One of the main highlights of the fair is the wide range of countryside pursuits on display. From thrilling falconry demonstrations and working dog trials to clay pigeon shooting and vintage tractor parades, there’s something for everyone to enjoy. Events start 9.15am.
On Wednesday 10th September, Cotswold Garden Flowers in Sands Lane, Badsey, Evesham WR11 7EZ opens to the public for the National Garden Scheme. This special event offers visitors a rare opportunity to explore one of Worcestershire’s most unique and botanically rich private gardens. Founded by acclaimed plantsman Bob Brown, Cotswold Garden Flowers is renowned for its eclectic and extensive plant collection. Visitors can expect a captivating mix of rare perennials, unusual shrubs, and vibrant seasonal blooms, all set within a charming nursery environment that blends horticultural expertise with natural beauty. The garden’s design emphasizes texture, colour, and year-round interest, making it a haven for both experienced gardeners and those seeking inspiration for their own green spaces. 11am-4pm. Admission £5, children free, light refreshments available.
Spurred by growing Government support and community grants, school gardening is transforming schools especially in Devon, Somerset, and the Cotswolds. It’s a hands on, initiative that nurtures well-being, environmental awareness, and academic growth—while cultivating a generation of young citizens who care for nature and each other.
Garden based learning is now an established instructional approach that uses gardening as a living classroom. Studies show it reinforces academic skills, personal development, social and moral growth, and life skills across disciplines—science, maths, language arts, environmental studies, even ethics
Specifically, gardening helps students become more motivated and engaged: lessons take on real world meaning when children plant, tend, and harvest, fostering curiosity and intrinsic learning. Moreover, garden based learning nurtures environmental literacy. Children develop first hand understanding of ecology, food systems, conservation, and sustainability.
Evidence indicates that gardening enhances children’s mental and physical health. Being outside reduces stress, increases physical activity, and boosts immune systems. Access to fresh, self-grown produce encourages healthier eating habits—pupils are more likely to try vegetables they’ve cultivated themselves, and this positive impact often radiates into their families
In fact, nearly 1.5 million children in around 90per-cent of UK primary schools participate in school gardening. Teachers overwhelmingly agree—94per-cent say it benefits physical health, mental well-being, social skills, behaviour, or concentration.
The government’s National Education Nature Park programme, delivered in partnership with the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) and the Natural History Museum, enables schools, nurseries, and colleges to upgrade their grounds for nature and biodiversity. Participants map biodiversity, design wildlife-friendly elements like ponds and planters, and record data to support scientific research For the 2025–2026 academic year, eligible schools— especially those in deprived areas—can apply for grants up to £5,000, to fund gardening equipment, green infrastructure, and consultation services. This marks a significant boost in capacity for many schools just as a new term begins.
As the new academic term unfolds, gardening in schools is about to have its highest profile, thanks to new robust Government grants and foundation support, which means more facilities and opportunities for gardening in every school
• Royal Society’s Tomorrow’s Climate Scientists Programme: From February 2025, UK schools can apply for up to £3,000 to support climate and biodiversity related projects—especially when partnering with STEM professionals.
• Nature Park Disadvantaged Area Fund: A separate pot of up to £10,000 is available for schools in disadvantaged settings participating in the Nature Park scheme.
• Outdoor Classroom Fund (£15 million): Launched in May 2023 by the Department for Education, this initiative supports schools, especially in deprived areas, to create outdoor learning spaces—funding tools, equipment, biodiversity enhancements, and facilitating participation in a virtual “National Education Nature Park”.
• Local grants example – Somerset Gardens Trust: Schools in Somerset can apply for £400 grants (offered multiple times per year) toward school garden creation or refurbishment—covering tools, seeds, raised beds, etc. The Spring 2025 round closed on 14th May.
• Other funding sources: Activities like school farm visits can be supported via Ernest Cook Trust’s ‘Outdoor Essentials’ grant (£500–£1,000) or Edina Trust science grants (£500–£700) for gardening-related resources.
At Chilthorne Domer Church Primary School in Somerset, a creative and inspiring gardening club—Skool Beanz—was founded in 2019 by Lara Honnor. It began as an after-school club and blossomed across five-and-a-half allotments, earning recognition from the National Garden Scheme. With a strong emphasis on fun, tradition, and child-led learning, sessions begin with a ceremonial “wassailing” of apple trees—chanting, pouring apple juice at their roots, and hanging bread for birds. Children choose tasks from a blackboard, and activities include gardening, crafts, storytelling, bat detection, even cooking with produce The club’s motto is “strict but fun,” with imaginative recycled planters (from old toilets to teapots), a composting toilet, “secret den,” seasonal surprises, and sensory learning at every turn It shows how engaging, creative design makes gardening a magnet for learning, well-being, and community.
• Devon schools are being urged to leverage the Nature Park grants to build a wildlife pond, plant pollinator borders, and introduce biodiversity mapping—participants would record wildlife data that feeds into national scientific projects.
• Throughout the Cotswolds: primary schools can now use Somerset Gardens-style grants or national programmes to create herb or vegetable gardens, install raised beds, and run garden based curriculum lessons—integrating maths and English with hands on experimentation.
• New term momentum: The start of term brings renewed energy and opportunity. Planting in early term cycles supports seasonal growth and engagement, while school communities are receptive to new initiatives.
• Funding alignment: Government and private sources—Nature Park grants, climate education funds, Outdoor Classroom investments, local trusts—are coinciding with scholarly interest in outdoor and environmental literacy.
• Health in Focus: Amid growing concerns over student mental health, disconnection from nature, and the urgency of climate awareness, gardening delivers tangible, therapeutic engagement. The sensory, communal, and achievement-rich nature of gardening makes it both a refuge and a launchpad for learning.
• Gardening seamlessly adds to core subjects—from measuring seed germination (maths), writing planting diaries (language), mapping site biodiversity (geography), to understanding ecosystems (science).
In this new term, school gardening is involved in real change which includes robust government and foundation support, research backing, and growing school-level interest. For regions like Devon, Somerset, and the Cotswolds—beautiful and biologically rich areas—it is a rare opportunity.
With accessible funding from national programmes and local trusts, schools can build gardens that educate, restore, and nurture. Whether through allotment clubs like Skool Beanz, or raised beds in school playgrounds or allotment style use of gardening areas, gardening in schools is now significant in terms of school syllabuses.
In late summer and early autumn the remarkable journey of endurance and instinct begins as swallows again leave our gardens for warmer climes
Everyone who has swallows in their garden feels privileged.
Swallows (Hirundo rustica), commonly known as barn swallows, arrive around April each year, having completed the return leg of their journey from sub-Saharan Africa. They come to Britain to breed, taking advantage of the long daylight hours, abundant insect life, and relatively mild summer weather.
In gardens they return to nest in barns, outbuildings, or under eaves of houses — places where they can safely rear their chicks.
Every year, one of the most enchanting spectacles of the natural world takes place above our heads: the annual migration of swallows.
These small, elegant birds with their sleek, forked tails and fluid, darting flight are a familiar sight across the countryside during the spring and summer months.
However, by late summer and early autumn, they begin to vanish.
Their disappearance is not a mystery, but rather a remarkable journey of endurance and instinct: the swallows leave the UK and begin their long migration south, often travelling thousands of miles to reach warmer climates in Africa.
But by August and into September, signs of their departure begin.
Groups of swallows start to gather on telephone wires and rooftops, forming flocks. These gatherings are a clear indication that migration is imminent.
It’s a time of rest and social interaction for the birds, as well as preparation — they’re building up energy reserves to fuel their long and taxing flight ahead.
The migration to Africa is no small feat.
“Their departure in late summer, though tinged with sadness, is… a reminder of the cyclical rhythm of nature and the astonishing capabilities of even the smallest creatures.”
Swallows typically travel more than 6,000 miles, crossing continents, mountain ranges, deserts, and vast bodies of water.
Their destination lies primarily in southern Africa , places like South Africa, Namibia, and Botswana where the weather is warm and insect food sources are abundant through the winter months. Some swallows may stop along the way in countries such as Spain, Morocco, or Nigeria, but most continue further south.
What makes this journey even more astonishing is that swallows do it largely unaided by any learned behaviour.
Young swallows born during the summer in the UK will join the migration for the first time without guidance from their parents. Guided by instinct and possibly a magnetic sense of direction, they follow ancient migration routes passed down through generations.
The challenges of this migration are considerable. Swallows face extreme weather conditions, predators, exhaustion, and scarcity of food during certain stretches — particularly when crossing the Sahara.
Their success depends on favourable winds, abundant stopover points, and safe habitats along their route. Unfortunately, changing climate patterns and habitat destruction, both in Europe and Africa, pose increasing threats to their survival.
Despite these challenges, swallows return year after year with remarkable fidelity to the same nesting sites.
Many people come to see the return of swallows in spring as a joyful sign of the changing seasons.
Their departure in late summer, though tinged with sadness, is equally awe-inspiring — a reminder of the cyclical rhythm of nature and the astonishing capabilities of even the smallest creatures.
By October, most swallows will have left ourskies. Their absence leaves the landscape feeling a little quieter, a little stiller.
But their legacy remains in the empty nests, the fading warmth of summer days, and the knowledge that, thousands of miles away, these agile travellers are basking under African skies. And when the following April arrives, we scan the skies for their graceful silhouettes, signalling the start of a new season and the return of one of nature’s most
The departure of swallows from the UK is not the end, but part of a continuous, beautiful loop — a story written in the skies each year.
Wasps seem to appear in abundance in early autumn and they can certainly be a nuisance but they are not without their virtues. By understanding their behaviour and taking simple precautions, gardeners can co-exist with these complex insects and appreciate the role they play in the seasonal rhythm of the garden.
As summer fades and autumn takes hold, gardens transform. Leaves change colour, plants wind down their growth cycles, and many insects prepare for winter. Among the most noticeable are wasps.
With their sudden increase in visibility and more aggressive behaviour, wasps often draw the anger of gardeners and those who like to spend time outdoors. But should they be regarded solely as pests, or do they serve a deeper purpose in the autumn garden? The answer is not as black-and-white as it may seem wasps can be both friends and foes to gardeners, depending on perspective.
To understand the role of wasps in the garden during autumn, consider their biology. In early summer, wasps are mostly beneficial predators. They feed their larvae on caterpillars, aphids, flies, and other garden pests, playing a valuable role in natural pest control. Worker wasps forage tirelessly to feed the growing colony, and their presence often goes unnoticed.
However, by late summer and into autumn, the colony’s dynamics shift. The queen stops laying eggs, and the worker wasps no longer have larvae to feed. As a result, their foraging habits change—they begin to seek out sweet foods, such as fruit, nectar, or sugary drinks, which brings them into closer contact with humans. Their behaviour can seem more aggressive and erratic, but this is due more to hunger and lack of purpose than malice.
Wasps as garden allies
Despite their seasonal shift in behaviour, wasps still offer benefits even in autumn. Firstly, they continue to scavenge for decaying fruit and other organic matter, helping to clean up the garden. This can prevent mould and rot from spreading to healthy plants. Wasps are also opportunistic predators, and even in autumn, they may continue to hunt harmful insects.
In a broader ecological sense, wasps contribute to biodiversity. They serve as prey for birds, spiders, and other wildlife, and their nests—though often a nuisance— can support a surprising number of secondary organisms. Gardeners who value ecological balance may appreciate that wasps play a role in the food web, just like bees or butterflies.
Moreover, some species of wasps are important pollinators. While not as efficient as bees, they do contribute to the pollination of certain late-blooming plants. Their activity may help ensure that flowers produce seeds before winter sets in.
case against wasps
Despite these benefits, many gardeners regard wasps as enemies in the autumn months. Their increased aggressiveness, especially around food or sweet-smelling plants, makes gardening less pleasant. Accidental stings are more common, particularly during fruit harvests or outdoor meals. For those allergic to wasp venom, this is not just an inconvenience but a serious health risk.
Wasps may also damage fruit crops. Overripe or fallen fruit is especially vulnerable, and wasps will often bore into apples, plums, or pears, rendering them unusable. This can be frustrating for gardeners who have invested time and effort into their harvest.
Nesting behaviour also poses a problem. Some wasps build nests in sheds, attics, or compost bins places where gardeners regularly work. Disturbing a nest, even unknowingly, can provoke a defensive swarm.
So, are wasps friends or enemies in the autumn garden? If managed with care, wasps can provide ecological benefits even as their behaviour becomes more unpredictable. Gardeners can reduce conflict by harvesting fruit promptly and covering sweet foods.
Yeo Valley, the leading Somerset farm and organic food brand has been letting nature take the lead for years – not just in how they farm, but in how they garden too. The Yeo Valley Organic Garden is a way of showing what’s possible when you grow with nature in mind. This September, they are ‘sowing’ something new - the very first Yeo Valley Organic Garden Festival, from September 18th to 20th, a three-day gathering for everyone who loves to grow, from the passionate to the just plain-curious. From compost tips to container planting, it’s a chance to dig into all things garden-related, with a line-up of brilliant speakers, beautiful borders and down-to-earth inspiration. It’s all happening, in the heart of Somerset at the Yeo Valley Organic Garden near Blagdon in Somerset – where wildlife is welcome, pollinators are positively encouraged, and the views are special too.
Whether you’re puzzled by plant labels, mystified by mulch, or just dipping your trowel into the gardening world, there’ll be something to spark your interest. You’ll find talks, workshops and panels from some of the UK’s most inspiring gardening voices, all exploring how they can grow greener, wilder and wiser – without taking themselves too seriously.
The festival is welcoming a stellar line-up of talks, including:
• Arit Anderson from BBC TV’s Gardeners’ World – Gardening for the climate; now and in the future.
• Charles Dowding –The UK’s no-dig gardening guru.
• Tom Massey – The water-wise gardener.
• Georgie Newbery – Release your inner, sustainable florist.
• Frances Tophill – From BBC TV’s Gardeners’ World – There’s no right or wrong in the garden.
• Kate Bradbury Mark Diacono Alys Fowler Jason Williams and many more!
Each day brings a new theme:
THURSDAY 18TH – Seeds of Change – Exploring climate resilience, biodiversity and soil health.
FRIDAY 19TH – People & Pollinators – Buzzing with florals, fauna and feel-good growing. SATURDAY 20TH – Mission Possible! – Inspiring the next generation of gardeners. There’ll be compost chats, tool sharpening demos, seed saving ideas and even a bee safari. Tuck into delicious food, browse the brilliant plant nurseries, and take time to wander around the Soil Association certified organic garden.
This festival isn’t about getting it perfect – it’s about enjoying the process, welcoming a little wildness and growing with curiosity, care and a good dollop of compost. If you need a little nudge to try something new in your garden - come and be inspired at the Yeo Valley Organic Garden Festival.
Autumn may signal the year’s winding down, but it can be a visually rewarding time in gardens. By using a mix of perennials, grasses, shrubs, and annuals especially in borders and containers—you can keep your garden full of life and colour long after summer has faded.
As the golden days of summer begin to wane, many gardens start to lose their vibrant energy especially in this summer of sunshine and drought. However, with a little planning and thoughtful plant selection, your garden can stay alive with colour right through autumn and well into November if the weather is kind. Whether you’re working with expansive borders or small containers on a patio or balcony, it’s entirely possible to maintain an eye-catching garden for much longer than you thought.
Autumn is a season of transition. The air becomes crisper, the days shorter, and the garden, often, quieter. But this shift doesn’t mean your outdoor space has to turn dull or drab. In fact, many plants reach their peak beauty in autumn, displaying rich hues of gold, crimson, orange, and deep purple.
Creating an autumnal garden full of colour provides visual interest during the off-season, food and shelter for pollinators and wildlife and an extended gardening season for you to enjoy.
By focusing on borders and containers, you can concentrate colour and texture where it’s most visible and impactful.
To keep gardens vibrant in autumn, it’s essential to plan months in advance. Many autumn-flowering perennials and annuals should be planted in spring or early summer. But even in autumn there are still plenty of things you can do to refresh your borders and containers.
Whether you’re sipping a hot drink surrounded by container colour on a patio or strolling past rich, glowing borders, the rewards of autumn gardening are deep and lasting.
With the right plants and a bit of care, your garden will not just survive the change of seasons, it will thrive in it.
Consider for instance by combining early bloomers with later-season plants to extend colour. Not all autumn colour comes from flowers. Many plants provide stunning leaf tones so look at foliage as a theme of autumn planting. Ornamental grasses, seed heads, and bark can all add interest.
Keeping your garden vibrant into autumn doesn’t only benefit you. Many pollinators and birds rely on late-blooming flowers and seedheads. Leave some seedheads intact—especially from plants like echinacea, rudbeckia, and grasses. They provide food and structure. Avoid over-tidying and remember hollow stems and leaf litter provide winter shelter for insects.
To ensure your autumn display stays attractive feed containers with a slow-release fertiliser when replanting for autumn. Keep clearing fallen leaves off container soil and small border plants to prevent rot. While many autumn plants are hardy, an early frost can damage tender specimens. Keep fleece or cloches handy just in case.
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Borders are a fantastic way to showcase a variety of plants. In autumn, they can still brim with life and energy if filled with the right species.
Late-flowering perennials
These are the backbone of the autumn border.
1. Asters (Symphyotrichum): These daisy-like perennials bloom in late summer through to October. Their purple, pink, and white tones bring a soft, nostalgic feel to borders.
2. Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’: A robust perennial with golden-yellow daisy flowers and a dark centre. It flowers into October and pairs well with grasses.
3. Sedum (Hylotelephium) ‘Autumn Joy’: Its fleshy, succulent foliage supports flat flowerheads that change from pink to deep burgundy as the season progresses.
4. Japanese anemones: Particularly varieties like Anemone × hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’ (white) and ‘September Charm’ (pink). These tall, graceful perennials bring elegance to autumn borders.
Shrubs with autumn interest
Don’t overlook woody plants in your border design.
5. Hydrangea paniculata: These bloom late into the season. ‘Limelight’ and ‘Vanille Fraise’ offer spectacular fading flowerheads.
6. Cotinus coggygria (Smoke Bush): With deep burgundy foliage that intensifies in autumn, it adds drama to any border.
7. Euonymus alatus (Burning Bush): Famous for its fire-red leaves in autumn.
Foliage plants
Sometimes it’s the leaves, not the flowers, that steal the show.
8. Heuchera (Coral Bells): Is available in a spectrum of colours from lime green to deep plum, and they hold their foliage well into winter. While mainly associated with shade, many varieties of hosta turn beautiful yellow or gold before dying back.
Autumn is where ornamental grasses come into their own, providing structure and interest in their own unique way. They have an aesthetic appeal providing form, texture, sound, movement and a translucent quality which has the greatest effect when backlit by the sun.
Many grasses flower in summer and autumn, changing shape from tufted mounds giving rise to intriguing floral displays. These inflorescences (flowers) change over time in colour, form and structure as the seeds ripen and disperse. Many grasses also develop shades of gold, orange and red echoing the autumnal leaves on shrubs and trees around them. Dancing in the autumn storms and winter gusts, grasses create sound and movement within the garden and bring a connection to the wider landscape.
Ornamental grasses are adapted to grow in a wide variety of situations from dry to damp, sunny to shady. There is a wide variety of size, shape and colour to choose from.
Stipa tenuissima – (Mexican feather grass) - These clumps of hair-fine foliage wave an endless display of silver-green flower heads, each seed tipped with a long silky filament. The overall effect of delicate plumes and foliage waving in the slightest breeze. Foliage and seed heads turn golden brown in autumn creating contrast with seed heads.
Stipa calamagrostis – (rough feather grass) - A handsome grass for dry soil. Graceful fountains of narrow green leaves are topped with large, long lasting, feathery plumes of soft buff.
Ampelodesmos mauritanicus – (diss grass) - This large elegant evergreen grass makes a fountain-like feature. From a base of arching green leaves spring tall pale stems carrying long drooping flower heads, beautiful in outline.
Calamagrostis brachytricha – (Korean feather reed grass) - A super elegant grass. Needle-like flower stems, carry pyramidal-shaped flower heads, like elegant bottlebrushes; grey-green with a touch of mauve when fresh, fading to buff. A shape tempting to stroke. A fine vertical above lower plants. Autumn flowering.
Try to use bulbs strategically. While autumn is the time to plant spring bulbs, you can also use autumnflowering bulbs to enhance borders or containers. Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) are large goblet-shaped flowers that bloom before the foliage.
Nerine bowdenii is a South African bulb with striking pink flowers, perfect in sheltered borders or large pots. Regular deadheading of annuals like pansies and rudbeckias will encourage prolonged blooming. Trim tired summer perennials to make space for autumn stars. Scatter small pumpkins or gourds around your containers or at the edge of borders. Use decorative stakes, solar lights, or lanterns to create evening ambiance and draw attention to focal plants.
Container gardening offers versatility, control, and the chance to easily update displays as the seasons change. As autumn arrives, you can swap out tired summer annuals with plants that flourish in cooler temperatures and bring fresh colour and texture.
Autumn annuals and bedding plants
Violas and pansies - these cheerful flowers come into their own in autumn and continue blooming on milder winter days.
Cyclamen (hardy types like Cyclamen hederifolium) are perfect for shadier spots, adding a romantic touch with their upswept petals and marbled leaves.
Chrysanthemums are available in bold autumn shades of red, orange, and yellow. Look for hardy types if you want them to come back next year.
Kale and ornamental cabbage - these leafy plants are cold-hardy and add architectural interest to containers.
Try using the thriller–filler–spiller method. This is becoming increasingly popular with those gardeners concentrating on their containers.
• Thriller - a standout plant like a tall grass or upright chrysanthemum.
• Filler - mid-height plants such as violas or heucheras.
• Spiller - cascading ivy or trailing pansies soften the pot’s edge.
You should choose warm-toned containers — terracotta or bronze-hued pots enhance the rich colours of autumn. Plants need less water as temperatures cool, but don’t let them dry out completely.
FORAGING IN SEPTEMBER CAN BE A DEEPLY SATISFYING EXPERIENCE. WITH A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE AND CARE, YOU CAN GATHER A VARIETY OF WILD FOODS—BERRIES, NUTS, MUSHROOMS GREENS AND MORE. IT IS A TIME TO SAVOUR THE FLAVOURS OF THE WILD
September marks a transition in the natural world.
As summer fades and the first hints of autumn creep in, those who are out there foraging find themselves in the most rewarding months of the year.
Hedgerows, forests, meadows, and coastlines come alive with edible plants, fruits, nuts, and fungi.
The warmth of the sun, and autumn’s increasing moisture, creates a perfect backdrop for wild food enthusiasts.
And that’s if you’re picking blackberries on a country lane, gathering mushrooms in a misty forest, or collecting chestnuts beneath ancient trees. Many summer fruits are still available, while autumn staples foods begin to ripen.
It’s a month of abundance.
For foragers, this month is one of the richest and most rewarding of the year. With fruits ripening, nuts falling, and mushrooms flourishing, there is a wealth of wild food to discover. Whether you’re an experienced forager or just beginning to search, September offers a vibrant opportunity to connect with nature and enjoy what it has to offer.
The Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 protects many plants in the UK, so make sure you’re not disturbing any protected species.
It’s also illegal to dig up plants without the landowner’s permission.
Foraging is not just about collecting free food—it’s about tuning into the rhythms of the natural world. September is a reminder that abundance is fleeting.
The joy of foraging isn’t just in the eating—it’s in the walking, the observing, the learning, and the connection to landscape and legacy. Many of our ancestors relied on these same hedgerows and woods for survival. Today, we forage to reconnect, to slow down, and to savour what the wild offers.
Whether you’re picking blackberries with your children, searching for wild mushrooms in ancient woodland, or bottling rosehip syrup for the winter, you are part of a long and meaningful tradition—one rooted in respect, curiosity, and care.
What is out there in September:
Blackberries - Are an easy option for the forager and the quintessential foraged fruit of late summer and early autumn. By September, they are sweet, juicy, and abundant. Look for them in hedgerows, woodland edges, canal paths, and country lanes. When picking, only take the fully black and slightly soft berries they’re the ripest and tastiest.
Elderberries - After the elderflowers of early summer come the dark purple elderberries. They grow in drooping clusters on elder trees. The berries must be cooked before eating, as raw elderberries can cause nausea. Ideal for making syrups wine, chutneys, and jams.
Hazelnuts - These tasty nuts ripen in early autumn, often beginning in late August and continuing through September. Look for hazel trees in hedgerows and woodland edges. You’ll often find nuts scattered on the ground beneath.
Sweet chestnuts - Toward the end of September, you might find sweet chestnuts starting to fall. They are encased in spiky green burrs that split open when ripe. These trees are most commonly found in parks and mature woodland. Ideal for roasting or use in soups and stuffing.
Rosehips - The bright red fruit of wild roses, rosehips are best gathered after the first frost, but they begin appearing in September. They’re rich in vitamin C and have a tartsweet flavour. Use in rosehip syrup, tea, jelly, or infused vinegar.
Sloes - These are the fruit of the blackthorn bush. Small, blue-black, and bitter, sloes are not pleasant to eat raw but are famed for their role in sloe gin. They begin to ripen in September, but many foragers wait for the first frost to soften their tannins. Use for sloe gin, jams, chutneys.
Crab apples - These small, tart apples can be found growing wild or naturalised in woodlands and field edges. They are too sour to eat raw but make excellent jellies and sauces. Crab apple jelly, cider, pectin for jam-making.
September is the beginning of peak mushroom season. The UK is home to thousands of fungi species—some edible, some poisonous—so mushroom foraging requires knowledge and caution.
Common edible varieties in September include:
Chanterelles: Fragrant, yellow-orange, and often found under beech or birch trees.
Field mushrooms: Common in pastures and grassy areas.
Giant puffballs: Large, white, and unmistakable.
Cep (Boletus edulis): Also known as porcini, found in deciduous woodland.
NEVER EAT A WILD MUSHROOM UNLESS YOU ARE 100% CERTAIN OF ITS IDENTIFICATION. MANY TOXIC SPECIES RESEMBLE EDIBLE ONES.
Start with what you know: Begin with easily identifiable and low-risk plants like blackberries, elderberries, or hazelnuts.
Use a foraging guidebook: A good field guide can help with identification. Some even have seasonal indexes to help focus your search.
Go early: Foraging is becoming increasingly popular. Go early in the day—and in the season—to get the best pickings.
Respect the ‘one-third rule’: Only take what you need, leave plenty for wildlife and future foragers.
Know the law: You are allowed to forage for personal use on public land or with landowner permission. Avoid nature reserves and protected areas without explicit permission.
Avoid pollution: Don’t forage near busy roads, industrial areas, or places where pesticides might be used.
Bring the right kit: A basket or cloth bag (not plastic, which can cause spoilage), gloves for thorny or stinging plants, and a pocket knife can be useful.
Responsible foraging ensures we protect the ecosystems we benefit from:
Always identify plants and fungi properly. Mistakes can be dangerous. Don’t uproot entire plants. Take fruits or leaves, not roots or the whole plant, unless it’s invasive and being managed.
Watch for wildlife. Don’t disturb birds’ nests or animal habitats.
There is a particular pleasure in days out during September and the early weeks of autumn, especially for those who love gardens and all things horticultural. As summer fades and the light softens, gardens take on a new, quieter beauty—one that invites reflection, discovery, and wandering among plants that are beginning their graceful decline. It’s a time of transition, when gardens reveal textures and tones that are hidden at the height of summer, and every leaf seems lit from within.
Visiting formal gardens in early autumn can be unexpectedly rewarding. While the riotous colour of midsummer may have faded, September brings its own palette—burnished reds, deep russets, and golden hues that glow in the slanting light. Ornamental grasses come into their prime, waving elegantly in the breeze and catching dew in the early morning. Dahlias, asters, and sedums extend the season with rich, jewel-toned blooms, often alive with bees making the most of the last of the nectar. The structure of a well-designed garden is more visible now: topiary stands out, paths are framed by maturing perennials, and vistas open up as foliage begins to thin.
Plant fairs held during this time are a treasure trove for the keen gardener. Many are hosted in the grounds of stately homes or specialist nurseries, offering not just a chance to buy unusual or heritage varieties, but also to explore beautiful settings. Autumn is a brilliant time for planting—cooler temperatures and moist soil give plants the best possible start, and nurseries are often keen to clear stock, making it a great opportunity to pick up bargains and advice from passionate growers.
Equally enjoyable are the National Garden Scheme (NGS) open days, which offer access to private gardens not usually open to the public. September sees a quieter schedule than peak summer, but those that are open often hold charm. These gardens can range from small town plots bursting with late-season surprises to sprawling country estates where mature trees and expansive borders put on a subtle but impressive show. There’s something deeply personal and inspiring about visiting someone’s private garden— learning what works in their soil, their microclimate, and their creative choices. Often, homemade cake and tea are part of the experience, adding to the leisurely, convivial atmosphere.
As summer comes to an end late flowering, herbaceous plants take centre stage announcing their presence as autumn tumbles in. Muted tones of pink and creamy Japanese anemones mingle with deep purple foliage of cimicifuga and cucomis ‘Zeal Purple’. Hydrangeas continue their everlasting display on the far hillside, while the trees overhead start their yearly cycle of slowing down revealing colourful tones in their leaves. Looking out of our tearoom windows, while enjoying a cream tea (our favourite is the homemade ginger cream tea) and marvelling at the colourful spectacle in the 20 acres of gardens makes a grand finish to a memorable walk, and after choosing some unusual plants to take home from the well stocked plant nursery.
Marwood Hill Gardens, Nr Guineaford, Barnstaple, North Devon EX31 4EA
www.marwoodhillgarden.co.uk Tel: 01271 342.528
Email: info@marwoodhillgarden.co.uk
September is the final month of opening of the year at Cadhay Gardens near Ottery St Mary and it looks as though this year will be a record year for garden visitors helped by the large number who bought season tickets giving them access on all open days. The dahlias ensure that there is still a massive amount of colour in the garden and the gardeners have been busy trying to improve the collection. Cadhay EX11 1QT is one mile to the north of Ottery St Mary. See cadhay.org.uk for further details.
Cadhay Gardens remain open from 2pm to 5pm on Friday afternoons until the end of September.
Late Summer
Above all, days out in early autumn are about pace and presence. The crowds have
Late Summer
Late Summer
Late Summer
Late Summer
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Late Summer
7th September, 10am-4pm
Open Garden Day
Open Garden Day
Late Summer
Late Summer
Late Summer
Late Summer
Late Summer
7th September, 10am-4pm
Open Garden Day
Open Garden Day
Open Garden Day
Open Garden Day
7th September, 10am-4pm
7th September, 10am-4pm
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Open Garden Day
7th September, 10am-4pm
7th September, 10am-4pm
7th September, 10am-4pm
7th September, 10am-4pm
7th September, 10am-4pm
7th September, 10am-4pm
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Open Garden Day
Open Garden Day
Open Garden Day
Open Garden Day
7th September, 10am-4pm
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Free entry for carers and children under 12
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
7th September, 10am-4pm
7th September, 10am-4pm
7th September, 10am-4pm
7th September, 10am-4pm
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Free entry for carers and children under 12
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Free entry for carers and children under 12
Free entry for carers and children under 12
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Garden tickets: £10 pre-sale or £14 on the gate
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Seniors: £7.50 pre-sale or £11 on the gate
Free entry for carers and children under 12
Free entry for carers and children under 12
Free entry for carers and children under 12
Free entry for carers and children under 12
Free entry for carers and children under 12
Tickets and information available at www.badmintonestate.com
Any questions contact the
Tickets and information available at www.badmintonestate.com
Any questions contact the Estate Office on 01454 218203 or email estateoffice@badmintonestate.com
Office on 01454 218203 or email estateoffice@badmintonestate.com
Any questions contact the Estate Office on 01454 218203 or email estateoffice@badmintonestate.com
Any questions contact the Estate Office on 01454 218203 or email estateoffice@badmintonestate.com
Any questions contact the Estate Office on 01454 218203 or email estateoffice@badmintonestate.com
Any questions contact the Estate Office on 01454 218203 or email estateoffice@badmintonestate.com
questions contact the Estate Office on 01454 218203 or email estateoffice@badmintonestate.com
218203 or
on 01454 218203 or
Marwood Hill Gardens is a tranquil 20-acre private garden nestled in a North Devon valley near Barnstaple. Established in 1949 by Dr. Jimmy Smart, this 20-acre garden has evolved into a horticultural haven, featuring three serene lakes, a variety of sculptures, and an impressive collection of plants from around the world including four National Collections, Champion Trees and Marwood is also Camellia Garden of Excellence.
Indulge in homemade cakes and light lunches in the award-winning tearoom, while the plant nursery offers an unusual array of plants for sale.
Hill Gardens, Marwood, Barnstaple, Devon EX31 4EA
Kelmscott Manor was the iconic country home of William Morris; poet, designer, craftsman, socialist and founding father of the Arts and Crafts movement. This Grade I listed house was loved by Morris as an example of traditional craftsmanship in harmony with the nearby village and surrounding landscape, towards the very upper reaches of the Thames. Award-winning poet Robert Seatter and acclaimed visual artist Jessica Palmer will bring the fascinating stories and compelling atmosphere of Kelmscott Manor to life as part of the Manor’s programme of learning and public engagement alongside the inspirational new exhibition, ‘A literary man: William Morris and the Book’ which runs until 25 October.
Kelmscott Manor, Kelmscott, Lechlade GL7 3HJ
You can discover the delights of growing your own fresh produce as RHS Rosemoor in north Devon celebrates the humble journey from plot to plate. On Saturday, Ocober 4th and Sunday, October 5th visitors can enjoy live talks and cookery demonstrations, explore the food market, take edible garden tours and get expert advice on how to make the most of your growing spaces, large or small. Savour the flavours and traditions of autumn with a weekend of apple-themed fun, seasonal food and family-friendly activities. You can learn more about sustainable farming with Josh Sparkes of The Collective at Woolsery, explore cider diversity with Clare from Rull Orchard, and discover delicious garden-to-plate recipes from Tineke Cooks. Take along your unknown apples for expert identification by Jim Arbury, explore rare West Country apple varieties with Orchards Live, and enjoy apple pressing demonstrations. With over 35 local traders, live folk music, shire horse logging, kids crafts in the tipi, and a feast of autumnal produce, it’s a harvest celebration for all ages.
RHS Garden Rosemoor, Torrington EX38 8PH https://www.rhs.org.uk/gardens/rosemoor/viewevent
The turning of the season from summer to autumn brings cooler days and richer colours to the gardens and arboretums that open for the National Garden Scheme this October. With hundreds of gardens opening across the country, there’s still a sumptuous tapestry of gardens large and small to inspire you this month. Full of fabulous planting schemes and garden owners keen to share their top tips, and with many selling plants and homemade teas, a garden visit in October is a fabulous way to celebrate the autumn and enjoy the great outdoors. Find a garden to visit near you: www.ngs.org.uk
the gardens and surrounding coastal walks, farmland and woods. Dogs on short leads are welcome. Sharpitor, Salcombe, Devon, TQ8 8LW nationaltrust.org.uk/overbecks-garden
As the season shifts, take time to be tranquil at Overbeck’s Garden near Salcombe, Devon. Berries, fiery foliage and late-blooming flowers keep the planting scheme vibrant into the autumn months.
Explore lush subtropical foliage along quiet zig zag paths with views to the blue sea below. Late flowering Dahlia and salvia, and the crimson glory vine add colour to the Statue Garden. Swathes of swaying grasses fade to golden tones on the Palm Bank.
During September, visitors will hear autumn tips from Overbeck’s garden team during guided garden tours run every Wednesday at 2pm (pre-booking essential). Overbeck’s Garden closes for the winter on November 6th
Overbecks, Shapitor, Salcombe TQ8 8LW
Visitors have a rare opportunity to explore the private gardens of Badminton House which will be open for the last time this year and showcasing the beautiful late summer flowers on 7th September. Discover the gardens’ formal beds, designed by renowned landscape architects Russell Page and François Goffinet. Wander through the south garden’s water squares, hedges, and borders, then visit the walled garden, home to the estate’s kitchen garden and a beautiful wisteria walkway. Enhance your visit with plant stalls, delicious food and drink vendors, and don’t miss the exhibition A Garden of Botanical Art in the Old Hall. Proceeds will support the Severn Area Rescue Association and the Church Restoration Fund. For more information or to book tickets please visit the website. Badminton House, Charity Lane, Frome BA11 3RW www.badmintonestate.com
Also open 17TH SEPTEMBER and 14TH OCTOBER for the National Garden Scheme please book at www.ngs.org.uk OPENING TIMES FROM 1st September - 20th October: Daily 11am - 5pm. Closed for winter. Reopening on 1st Feb
Picton garden is Michaelmas daisy delight
Nestled in the foothills of the Malverns you will find The Picton Garden, home to more than 400 varieties of michaelmas daisies. Uniquely it is in August that this one-and-ahalf-acre plantsman’s garden begins to glow with the first of the asters and autumnal herbaceous, as autumn advances the colours intensify reaching a crescendo in late September and the first week of October.
Afterwards the interest is carried on by the unusual trees and shrubs, chosen for their autumn colour, as well as late flowering bulbs, herbaceous and beautiful ferns. The adjacent nursery is well stocked with many of the plants seen in the garden.
The Picton Garden, Walwyn Rd, Malvern WR13 6QE
One of the most popular plant sales in the Cotswolds returns on 6th and 7th September when West Kington Nurseries hold their massive Autumn plant sale. Entry over the two-day event is free and visitors will have the chance to wander over the five acre site of the nursery which promises to be bursting with plants. Catalogues for the sale are sold in aid of local charities. West Kington Nurseries, West Kington, Chippenham SN14 7JQ Call 01249 782822 or visit www.wknurseries.co.uk for more information.
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West Kington, Nr Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 7JQ
Barthelemy & Co near Wimborne in Dorset was established by a French nurseryman almost a century ago and the Skinner family now specialise in propagating and growing Acer palmatum – or Japanese maples as they’re known.
Throughout spring, summer and autumn the delicate foliage of the acer presents exquisite shadings of Mother Nature’s gold, pink, purple, green, yellow, orange and red. Acers are a delightful addition to anyone’s garden, giving an aura of peace and tranquillity. The ten-acre nursery at Stapehill has a huge collection of Japanese maples to choose from and expert staff are on hand to help select the right variety and to offer advice about caring for the trees in future. Over 100,000 acers are produced at Barthelemy and Co every year approximately 10,000 - 12,000 of them are grafted named palmatum varieties, as one of the largest specialist growers of their kind.
Barthelemy & Co, 262 Wimborne Road West, Wimborne, Dorset BH21 2DZ
Tel: 01202 874283 www.barthelemymaples.co.uk
ENJOY SEPTEMBER IN THESE LOVELY GARDENS AND WALKS
GARDENS & TEAROOM
Open every Friday 2pm - 5.30pm from 2nd May to 26th September
6th & 7th September 2025
SATURDAY 9AM-5PM SUNDAY 10AM-4PM
Follow the yellow signs from the A420 FREE ENTRY
to the public Over 5 Acres of plants Refreshments Catalogues sold in aid of local charities 01249 782822 www.wknurseries.co.uk
Also last weekend in May & August Bank Holiday weekend - Sat, Sun & Mon
GARDENS: adult £6, child £1
CADHAY, OTTERY ST. MARY, DEVON, EX11 1QT 01404 813511 www.cadhay.org.uk Member of Historic Houses
We produce and grow the largest selection available in the UK. Plants are pot grown and suitable for garden, patio or bonsai.
Visitors welcome Mon-Sat 9am-1pm & 2pm-4pm
Barthelemy & Co (DCG), 262 Wimborne Rd West, Stapehill, Wimborne, Dorset BH21 2DZ
Tel: 01202 874283 enquiries@barthelemymaples.co.uk www.barthelemymaples.co.uk
Visit our fascinating family home with its beautiful Walled and Woodland gardens, Fernery and Bog garden, walks to the Atlantic Coast, stunning architecture, collections, displays and film exhibition.
Location for Enid Blyton’s ‘Malory Towers’, ‘The Night Manager’, ‘The Salt Path’ and more.
* Dogs welcome * Holiday Cottages * Hartland Quay 1 mile * Homemade light lunches & cream teas * House, Gardens etc and Café open until 2nd October Sunday to Thursday 11am - 5pm (House 2pm - 5pm last adm 3.45pm)
For more information and special events see www.hartlandabbey.com Hartland, Nr. Bideford EX39 6DT 01237441496/234
September Fairs
7th September
Adwell House, Adwell, Nr. Thame OX9 7DQ
21st September
Llanover House, Nr. Abergavenny NP7 9EF
www.rareplantfair.co.uk
Please visit our website for full details of admission
September is a lovely, peaceful time to visit Hartland Abbey after the school holidays and before the close of the season. After the wonderful summer the gardens are flourishing. The annuals should still be flowering in the kitchen garden with their vibrant colours and the tender salvias, dahlias and penstemons in the herbaceous beds. The Walled Gardens are a place to relax and unwind with its autumn flowers and heady scents. For the energetic a good walk to the beach at Blackpool Mill followed by delicious homemade cakes and scones or a browse in the gift shop is a lovely way to spend a day especially with a doggy friend! Hartland Abbey itself is a fascinating look into family history spanning the generations since 1539. The film exhibition is fun to see where so many TV and film productions have been filmed. Hartland Abbey Hartland, Stoke, Bideford EX39 6DT Tel: 01237441496/234 www.hartlandabbey.com
This year’s Rare Plant Fairs end in September with two events set in interesting and unique gardens, with full garden entry included in the admission price.
The first fair in September, on Sunday, September 7th, is set in the beautiful grounds and gardens of Adwell House, near Thame in Oxfordshire, an idyllic spot on the edge of the Chiltern Hills. This fair has become established as a real favourite with visitors, who are greeted on arrival with a magnificent herbaceous border which sweeps around the drive. Proceeds from this will be donated to the horticultural charity Perennial, the UK’s only charity dedicated to helping everyone who works in horticulture, and their families.
The final fair for the season is the popular event at Llanover House, near Abergavenny in Monmouthshire, on Sunday, September 21st. This is a 15-acre listed garden and arboretum with lakes, streams and cascades, created by the Rhyd y Meirch stream as it flows through the garden. The deep herbaceous borders in the unusual circular walled garden, with a dovecote topped by a Pike, have been designed to complement the autumnal hues of gold, red and orange enhancing the berries, barks and falling leaves.
There is a great selection of specialist nurseries attending each of the fairs, including National Collection holders, all experts in the plants that they grow. Both fairs are open from 11am to 4pm.
Visit www.rareplantfair.co.uk for full details of the events, including admission charges and a list of the exhibitors attending each one.
One of Somerset’s most picturesque estates Forde Abbey invites gardening enthusiasts and nature lovers to its Autumn Plant & Gardening Fair on Saturday 6th September running from 10 am to 3pm. Enjoy a selection of specialist nurseries from the Southwest, offering a broad array of herbaceous perennials many rare and unusual as well as dahlia varieties grown right at the Abbey. Visitors can talk directly with expert growers, who are eager to share advice and help you choose plants that will bring autumnal colour and vibrancy to your garden. The fair opens as Forde Abbey’s gardens move into autumn, highlighted by a stunning dahlia display and lush herbaceous borders unfolding their autumnal hues.
The Abbot’s Table Café will be open offering brunch, lunches, cakes, and hot and cold drinks. The Gift Shop and Eeles Pottery will also be open, showcasing beautiful souvenirs and handcrafted pottery. General entry: £7.50 for adults, which includes access to the Abbey’s 30-acre gardens. Children aged 5 to 15 free. Free parking and last entry at 3 pm, aligning with the close of the fair. Forde Abbey and Historic House Members enjoy free entry.
Forde Abbey, Chard TA20 4LU
Sophie Taylor completed her first year of owning an allotment in August. She found friendship and kindness from fellow plot holders, suffered aches and pains but as she says found peace in the soil
At fifty years old, last August I finally signed the dotted line and took over my own Somerset allotment. It wasn’t glamorous. It hadn’t I found out from my charming allotment neighbour been worked on for a year half and was overgrown with nettles, a battered shed leaning like a drunk uncle, and soil more clay than crumb—but it was my responsibility. After years of pottering in my small garden and borrowing a corner of my friend’s veg patch, I was ready to dig in, literally and figuratively. My husband who hates every aspect of gardening supported me from afar and quietly assumed it would end in tears.
The first few weeks in autumn were dominated by clearing and getting to know the allotment communityfriendly (mostly), nosey and generous with cakes and biscuits and tea and coffee. Every Sunday morning just after eight, I’d show up in my oldest jeans and spend hours wrestling brambles and dodging stinging nettles. My body ached in ways it hadn’t since my 30s, but it was a good ache.
The odd thing about having an allotment is it seems to pull you to visit it-even on days when you don’t want to garden or have nothing to garden with. Through that winter I did some work but also spent time with fellow allotmenteers. I began to look forward to our casual chats over shared flasks of coffee.
Spring arrived with the promise of hard work and I was ready to be tested. I ordered more seeds than any sane person needs runner beans, beetroot, courgettes, kale, carrots, leeks, and even sweetcorn (a bit of an optimist’s choice). I started trays of seedlings at home, nurturing them like babies. By late April, I planted out the hardier ones and crossed my fingers against a rogue frost.
Not everything went to plan. The slugs held nightly feasts, and my early carrots were twisted and stubby. I overwatered the courgettes and
underwatered the onions. But despite the setbacks, things began to grow and as I write are still growing.
I have a modest harvest: spinach that bolted if I looked at it funny, broad beans that tasted like childhood, and strawberries so sweet they never made it home. There’s something quietly euphoric about eating food you’ve grown yourself. I’d walk around the plot with my enamel mug of tea, inspecting my crops like a proud headmistress.
The allotment community was a surprise joy. I’d worried, as a newcomer and a woman on her own, that I might feel out of place. But the other plot holders were a motley crew of kindness: retired men in woolly hats who offered cabbage plants and advice in equal measure, young couples experimenting with ‘no-dig beds, and a woman in her 70s who wielded a hoe like a warrior queen. We swapped seedlings, surplus cucumbers, and tips.
My first butternut squash was stunted and lopsided, but I roasted it anyway and declared it delicious. The kale refused to die, and the leeks stood proud. I learned to make chutneys and soups, storing jars like trophies in my kitchen. I also learned to accept failure—my tomatoes succumbed to blight, and a surprise frost took out half my beans.
As winter crept in, I covered my beds with cardboard and manure, tucked my tools into the shed, and stood quietly in the chill air, taking stock. I had grown food, yes but also confidence, resilience, and a quiet pride in something entirely my own.
Owning an allotment wasn’t just about veg; it was about space mental and physical—to connect with the land, myself, and a slower rhythm of life. I found peace in the soil, in the hum of bees, in the repetitive joy of weeding. I had started this journey seeking vegetables. What I found was far richer.
As summer begins to wind down and autumn slowly edges in, September is a month of transition. With the heat of July and August fading and cooler temperatures settling in, this is a critical time to begin preparing for the colder months ahead while enjoying the last flourish of late summer blooms and harvests.
September’s to-do list is broad and varied, encompassing everything from planting spring bulbs and harvesting crops to general tidying and preparing soil.
So, September is a month of gentle endings and exciting beginnings. While many
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One of the key tasks this month is planting springflowering bulbs such as daffodils, crocuses, and hyacinths. These need time to establish roots before winter and planting them now ensures a vibrant display come March and April. Choose firm, healthy bulbs and plant them two to three times their own depth. Bulbs are useful for adding colour to spring borders. Tulips come in all shades, from dark purple to white, and bloom at a time of year when many plants offer muted colours. Other bulbs, such as snowdrops and scillas, are some of the earliest flowering plants in the garden, brightening up the short days of very early spring. Most bulbs are bought and planted when dry, in a dormant, leafless, rootless state. Plant as soon as possible. They may flower poorly following later than recommended planting or after lengthy storage.
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Powdery mildew often affects both ornamental and edible plants in early autumn. Water plants regularly to prevent the disease.
The white, powdery covering on leaves, stems, flowers or fruit gives powdery mildew disease its common name. All plants can be affected, and it is particularly prevalent in late summer.
Sometimes, though, the first symptoms you notice may be yellow or purple discolouration, falling leaves or general poor growth and distortion.
The good news is that powdery mildew on one type of plant won’t generally spread to other unrelated plants.
Lush growth, dry roots, cool temperatures, damp air, poor air circulation and too much shade all encourage powdery mildew.
Avoid giving susceptible plants too much nitrogen-rich fertiliser (either organic or inorganic) which encourages lush growth.
Ensure plants, especially those in containers or growing close to walls, fences or trees, have adequate water.
Shade the roots of climbers such as honeysuckle and clematis so their roots stay moist.
It’s worth keeping a regular check on your pond and the plants growing in and around it, to make sure everything is thriving and in balance. Pond plants can be quite vigorous, so may need controlling, or perhaps you want to add more. The water quality can decline, particularly in hot weather, and pondlife may need a little help, both in summer and winter. But just beware of too much intervention – it can upset the pond’s natural balance and deter wildlife. Ponds rarely need a complete clear-out, unless they’ve become extremely overgrown or silted up.
plants reach the end of their growing cycle, others are just being sown for winter or early spring. Taking time this month to tidy, plant, and prepare ensures that your garden will thrive in the months to come and burst into life again next spring. From planting bulbs to dividing perennials, from sowing leafy greens to preparing compost, September offers a wealth of productive and rewarding tasks. Embrace the rhythm of the seasons and enjoy the cooler days in the garden—your plants (and wildlife visitors) will thank you for it.
Continue deadheading faded flowers to encourage a final flush of blooms and tidy up the garden. Deadhead repeat-flowering rose varieties and remove any diseased foliage. Prune English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) after flowering to keep it compact. Cut back spent perennials unless you want to leave seedheads for birds or winter interest.
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As clumps become congested, this is an ideal time to lift and divide herbaceous perennials like geraniums, hostas, and daylilies. Dividing perennials regularly will ensure healthy, vigorous plants that will continue to perform year after year. It also offers the opportunity to multiply your plants. Plants can be divided successfully at almost any time if they are kept well-watered afterwards. However, division is most successful when the plants are not in active growth. Divide summer-flowering plants in early autumn when the soil is dry enough to work. In wet autumns, delay until spring. Spring is also better suited to plants that are a touch tender. Plants can be divided successfully at almost any time if they are kept well-watered afterwards.
September is an excellent month for lawn maintenance, as the cooler, wetter weather supports new grass growth. Remove thatch and moss buildup using a spring-tine rake or a mechanical scarifier. This helps air and water reach the roots. Use a garden fork or hollowtine aerator to relieve compaction, especially on high-traffic areas. Apply grass seed to bare patches and use an autumn lawn feed with low nitrogen and higher potassium/phosphorus to support root growth.
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In the vegetable garden it’s a case of lifting and storing; with onions only the ripe bulbs will store well throughout the winter, so lift any remaining onion bulbs and place them in a spot with full sun to ripen them off thoroughly, if you have a glass frame in the garden you can use this as it will keep the rain off.
If you have tomato plants outside then cut off a few leaves to expose the fruit to the sun and they will ripen that much quicker.
Collect up some of the herbs in the garden –sage, parsley and thyme and dry them out or freeze them for use in the winter months.
As the temperature drops it’s a good idea to protect border plants by mulching. It’s best to apply when the soil is damp or wet and make sure you weed first. It will help your soil from drying out, improve its texture and help protect the roots of tender plants such as dahlias or Verbena bonariensis from frost – a good two-inch layer is best.
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As light levels begin to decrease, it’s time to remove shading from the greenhouse. Shade netting can simply be removed and stored for next year, while shading paint needs to be rubbed off. Whichever type of shading you used, give the outside of the glass a thorough clean afterwards to let in the maximum amount of light.
Begin to bring in or prepare to protect tender perennials such as pelargoniums, fuchsias, and citrus trees before the first frosts. Remove algae and dirt from glazing to maximise light. Remember to disinfect staging, benches, and pots to reduce pest risks. Utilise the greenhouse to sow crops like lamb’s lettuce, oriental leaves, and early broad beans.
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Early September is the best time to sow salad plants for harvests between November and early May. Grow them out of the worst of the weather under a protective covering, such as glass, polythene, fleece or insect-proof mesh. Although no extra heat is needed, without any protective covering harvests are small in winter and of lower quality.
Sow in modular trays using a good quality compost and then plant outside when they’re big enough to handle next month.
Winter salads to try:
• Chervil – sow asap for small harvests of fine flavour.
• Chicories and endives– small harvests of bitter and pretty leaves.
• Corn salad – for harvests from November to April.
• Lettuce – to stand as small plants then heart up in spring or for regular picking of outer leaves from November to May.
• Mizuna – for plentiful leaves in autumn and occasional winter harvests.
• Mustards – large leaves in mild weather.
• Salad rocket – crops in small amounts through the winter.
• Spinach ‘Medania’ – sow asap for small, steady and sweet harvests.
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There is just time in the first week of September to sow spring onions and cabbage, either direct or in modules for planting outside in early October: sow three cabbage seeds per module, and thin to one or two; and up to 10 spring onion seeds per module to plant as a clump that you can gradually thin next spring as you harvest the onions. These will grow through the winter and give crops next year.
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Enjoy the summer display right to the end by keeping your containers in shape.
Deadhead the plants regularly to encourage more blooms. If the weather is dry, give them a good soak and finally, give them an extra boost by feeding weekly with liquid fertiliser; controlled-release feeds will be running out of steam by now.
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Use containers to layer bulbs for a staggered display of flowers from early spring to late April.Bottom layer: tulips; middle: daffodils; top: crocus or snowdrops.
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Stock up on overwintering seeds, spring bulbs, and garlic or onion sets before retailers sell out. Take notes or photos of what worked, what didn’t, and areas to improve. Autumn is ideal for planning next year’s layout or new projects. While frost is still hopefully and weeks off in most areas, begin organising fleece, cloches, or cold frames to protect vulnerable plants.
Devon, Dorset, Somerset, and Gloucestershire have long been apple heartlands, offering hundreds of local varieties nurtured through generations. Increasingly there’s a celebration and revival of traditional apple trees which is leading to more discerning growing of apple varieties
In a world increasingly driven by uniformity and convenience, the apple—one of Britain’s most ancient and symbolic fruits—has become a victim of its own success. With thousands of varieties historically cultivated across the UK, each with unique flavours, textures, and purposes, today’s apple market is overwhelmingly dominated by a handful of commercially favoured cultivars.
Glossy supermarket apples like Gala, Braeburn, and Pink Lady may be familiar and visually appealing, but they represent only the narrowest sliver of what apple heritage truly offers.
Nowhere is the depth and diversity of apple culture more evident than in the West Country and Cotswolds. The counties of Devon, Dorset, Somerset, and Gloucestershire have long been apple heartlands, offering hundreds of local varieties nurtured through generations. These apples have evolved in step with their landscapes and cultures, suited to the soils, climate, and culinary preferences of their regions.
In choosing apple trees more discerningly—especially those rooted in regional heritage— we can do more than grow fruit. We preserve centuries of knowledge, resilience, and craftsmanship. We challenge the homogeny of modern food systems and instead plant trees that feed body and spirit alike.
So the next time you’re planting, cooking, drinking cider, or just biting into an apple, ask yourself: could this be better? Could it be more meaningful? More connected?
Whether you’re planting an orchard, choosing trees for a garden, or simply selecting apples to eat, it’s time to make more discerning choices—ones that honour the rich history, regional diversity, and superior flavours of our native varieties. And to do that, we must look back to look forward.
Apples are more than fruit. They are part of Britain’s rural heritage, woven into folklore, agriculture, and tradition. Cider-making, wassailing, harvest festivals—all are rituals that centre the apple not just as produce but as a cultural icon.
The West Country has been a cradle for this tradition. Somerset and Devon have long been renowned for their cider orchards, where apples were as much about drink as they were about eating. Varieties were cultivated not just for sweetness or storage but for their tannins, acidity, and unique fermenting qualities.
Likewise, in the Cotswolds, a mix of upland farms and valleys produced dual-purpose apples—eaters and cookers—that offered complexity far beyond modern supermarket fare. Here, the apple is a symbol of place, a living connection between people and the land. But over the past century, thousands of local varieties have vanished, their trees uprooted in favour of monocultures, intensive farming, and global distribution chains. This has left us with fewer choices and, ironically, less flavour.
From a horticultural perspective, growing a range of apple varieties especially local or heritage ones brings many benefits:
Traditional apple varieties are often well adapted to their local conditions. They may require less irrigation, fewer pesticides, and less intensive care than modern, non-native cultivars.
Many heritage apples boast complex flavours ranging from sharp and spicy to honeyed and floral. This is especially important for those interested in baking, preserving, or cidermaking.
Planting heritage apple varieties helps maintain the UK’s rich agricultural biodiversity, preventing further genetic erosion.
A mix of early and late flowering varieties ensures better pollination and supports a wider range of insect life.
Cultural continuity- reviving and maintaining regional varieties helps preserve local heritage and identity, fostering a deeper connection with place and history.
The choice of historic varieties that have grown in the west is huge—many of which are at risk of disappearing entirely.
Devonshire Quarrenden – Possibly dating back to the 17th century, this early-season apple has a sharp, aromatic flavour and a distinctive red flush. It’s a fine eater, but also works well in cider blends. Its name comes from the village of Quarrendon in Buckinghamshire, though it became particularly popular in Devon.
Pig’s Nose – A wonderfully named Devonshire variety, likely a cider apple, known for its knobbly shape and unusual skin. Its sharp juice and strong tannins made it valuable in traditional cider blends.
Sweet Alford – Another Devon cider apple, producing a sweet juice used to balance sharper varieties in fermentation.
Dorset Redstreak – Once praised in the 18th century for its fine flavour and cider qualities, this now-rare apple is known for its balance of acidity and sweetness. Its vibrant red flush adds visual appeal. Dorset Redstreak, also known as Somerset Redstreak. It’s a popular choice for single-varietal cider production and is also used to add depth and complexity to blended ciders. The apples are typically harvested in early October and are mediumsized, shiny red, and conical in shape.
Golden Ball – A yellow, firm apple used traditionally for both cooking and cider. Its versatility made it a favourite in mixed-use orchards across the Dorset hills.
Slack-ma-Girdle – Possibly the most famously named cider apple, grown across Dorset and Devon. A mild, sweet variety used in blending, it’s part of the tapestry of rural cider lore.
Kingston Black – Perhaps the most famous of all cider apples, originating in the village of Kingston near Taunton. Revered for its deep colour, high tannins, and rich juice, it produces single-varietal ciders of complexity and structure. While difficult to grow in some areas, it’s iconic to Somerset’s cider identity.
Porter’s Perfection – A classic bittersweet cider apple producing a distinctive redstreaked juice. It was discovered near East Lambrook and remains a prized component of traditional Somerset blends.
Mere de Menage – A dual-purpose apple with a wonderful flavour, used in both cooking and cider-making. Its name (“Mother of the Household”) reflects its value in the traditional rural home.
Ashmead’s Kernel – Possibly the finest dessert apple ever raised in England, originating in Gloucester in the 1700s. Despite its knobbly appearance, it offers extraordinary flavour—sharp, sweet, with a rich, almost pear-drop intensity. It stores well and improves over time.
Gloucester Underleaf – A local cooker and cider apple with a mild, sweet flavour. Once commonly grown in valley orchards across the Cotswolds.
Severn Bank – A heritage cider apple grown in Gloucestershire, producing juice with good body and tannins, suited to traditional keeved cider.
Beauty of Bath – Though not exclusive to the Cotswolds, it was widely planted there.
A very early variety, ripening in July, with crisp flesh and a blush of red.
If you’re considering planting apple trees, whether in a small garden or a larger orchard, there are several key principles for making more discerning choices:
Choose regionally appropriate varieties
Where possible, select varieties that originated or historically thrived in your area. They’re more likely to perform well in your soil and climate, and they contribute to local biodiversity.
Think beyond dessert apples
While it’s tempting to plant familiar eating apples, remember that cookers and cider apples offer broader utility—and often more complex flavours. A good mix can serve multiple purposes.
Consider flowering and harvest times
To ensure good pollination and staggered harvests, select apples with overlapping flowering periods and a range of ripening dates.
Support preservation and conservation
Buy from nurseries that specialise in heritage or local varieties. Organisations like the Marcher Apple Network, Common Ground, and the South West Orchards Group help support the reintroduction of rare cultivars.
There’s good news: a quiet revival is underway. Across the West Country and the Cotswolds, orchardists, cider-makers, and local communities are working to preserve and replant traditional varieties. Heritage orchards are being restored. Wassailing ceremonies are returning. Farmers’ markets now stock apples that can’t be found in supermarkets.
Micro-cideries in Somerset and Devon are blending forgotten apples into artisanal brews, and smallholders across the Cotswolds are discovering the joy of planting trees that tell a story. Urban gardeners, too, are finding that heritage varieties often thrive in pots or espaliers, offering real flavour from even the smallest spaces. This revival isn’t just nostalgic—it’s practical. In a warming climate and uncertain economy, locally adapted, diverse food crops offer resilience, self-sufficiency, and deeper community roots.
A glut of apples might seem overwhelming at first, but it’s a delicious problem to have. With a little planning and creativity, your surplus can provide nourishment, joy, and help others. Whether you’re cooking, preserving, sharing, or composting, your autumn harvest doesn’t have to go to waste.
The signs are this autumn is going to produce a bumper harvest of apples and for many gardeners that means an overwhelming abundance of fruit. If you’ve a garden with plenty of apple trees heavy with fruit, or just one or two trees packed with fruit, a glut of apples can quickly go from a delightful bounty to a frustrating challenge. Fortunately, there are some creative, practical, and even profitable ways to handle your apple overload.
Preserving apples is one of the most effective ways to extend their shelf life and minimize waste.
Storing: There’s no reason why you can’t successfully store apples over the winter. It takes time and you need to do it with care but it’s well worth it. Select undamaged apples and wrap them individually in paper (newspaper, paper towels, or brown paper) to prevent contact and potential rot spread. Store them in a cool, dark, and preferably slightly humid environment, like an unheated basement, garage, or cellar, ensuring good air circulation. Regularly check for any signs of rotting and remove affected apples promptly. Apples can be stored in a fridge in small plastic bags for weeks, even months.
Drying: Dehydrated apple slices make for excellent snacks. You can use a food dehydrator or a regular oven set at a low temperature. Sprinkle with cinnamon or dip in lemon water to keep them from browning.
Freezing: Apples freeze well when peeled, sliced, and tossed with a bit of lemon juice. Store them in freezer bags for later use in pies, crisps, or smoothies.
Few things smell as good as apples baking in the oven. And what better excuse to indulge in baking than a surplus of fresh apples?
• Apple pies, crumbles and cobblers are classic comfort desserts that freeze well.
• Apple muffins, cakes, and breads can be made in bulk and frozen or shared with neighbours and friends.
If you have access to a cider press or are willing to invest in one, making fresh apple cider can be a fun process.
• Apple juice (non-alcoholic) is a delicious autumn drink. You can also mull it with spices for a more seasonal drink.
Careful apple by apple storing individually is essential and you could try drying apples
• Cider requires a bit more equipment and fermentation time, but it can be a satisfying home-brewing project.
• Apple cider vinegar is another great option. Made by fermenting apple scraps with water and sugar, it’s useful for cooking and cleaning.
4. Use in savoury dishes
Apples aren’t just for sweet recipes. Their natural tartness and crisp texture pair beautifully with many savoury ingredients.
• Add thin apple slices to salads for a fresh crunch.
• Cook them down with onions for a tangy chutney or relish to serve with meats or cheese.
• Incorporate into roasts or stuffing for an autumnal twist on classic meals.
When in doubt, give them away. Many people don’t have access to fresh fruit, and your extra apples could be a welcome treat.
• Offer apples to friends, family, and neighbours.
• Contact local schools, food banks, or shelters—they may welcome fresh produce donations.
• Consider setting up a free produce box outside your home which is often very welcome.
Despite your best efforts, some apples will inevitably go bad—especially windfalls or bruised fruit. Don’t toss them in the rubbish, compost them. Apples break down easily in a compost pile and provide valuable nutrients.
Tasting fruit before planting may seem like a small step, but it’s one of the most important parts of planning an enjoyable orchard. It helps you avoid disappointment, deepens your understanding of fruit and aligns your gardening choices with your culinary tastes. A fruit tree isn’t just a plant it’s a long-term companion in your garden.
Planting fruit trees like apples, pears, plums, cherries, or peaches is a big investment in your garden’s future—one that can yield fruit rewards for decades. However, unlike vegetables or annual flowers, fruit trees take years to mature and bear fruit fully, and once they do, you’re committed to their flavour, texture, and harvest cycle. That’s why one of the most critical yet often overlooked steps in planning a home orchard is tasting the fruit before planting the tree.
This may sound obvious at first, but many home gardeners skip this step. They may be seduced by a tree’s disease resistance, hardiness, productivity, or commercial popularity, only to discover years later that they don’t like the taste of the fruit. That’s a costly and time-consuming mistake. Taking the time to taste the fruit you plan to grow is not just a matter of personal preference it’s an act of planning, and long-term satisfaction.
One of the first reasons to taste before you plant is that flavour is highly subjective. A variety that sells well in shops and supermarkets might be bred more for appearance, shelf life, or uniformity than actual flavour. Many supermarket fruits are harvested early, treated for storage, and shipped over long distances, which can further dampen flavour and texture. These fruits are often bland, dry, or suffer in comparison to their fresh-fromthe-tree counterparts.
However, just because a fruit is popular or even described as ‘delicious’ doesn’t mean it’s right for you. Some people love the sweet, almost banana-like texture of an Asian pear; others find it watery and lacking in depth. One gardener might cherish the tart snap of a Granny Smith apple; another might find it too sour. Tasting different varieties before you plant helps you select trees that match your exact flavour preferences.
Planting a fruit tree is a commitment to future abundance. A mature apple or pear tree can yield hundreds of pounds of fruit in a season. If you don’t truly enjoy the variety you’ve planted, you’ll be less likely to eat it, preserve it, or share it. This leads to wasted harvests and disappointment. Worse, if the fruit isn’t palatable, you might find yourself reluctantly tearing out a tree you’ve spent years nurturing.
Tasting ahead of time ensures you’re planting a tree whose fruit you’ll want to eat year after year. Ideally, you’ll choose varieties you look forward to harvesting and that fit into your culinary habits—whether for eating fresh, baking, juicing, or preserving.
Tasting also allows you to consider your harvest. Some apples are best eaten fresh; others are made for pies, cider, or drying. Pears may be soft and juicy for eating out of hand or firm and spicy for cooking. Plums vary from sweet and mild to tart and punchy. Knowing what you like and how you intend to use the fruit helps you select varieties that fit your lifestyle.
For example, a firm, slightly tart apple like ‘Jonagold’ might be perfect for baking, while a sweet, crisp one like ‘Honeycrisp’ is better for snacking. You may want to plant a mix of early-, mid-, and late-season varieties to stagger your harvest. Tasting and researching beforehand gives you the foresight to plan a diverse and functional home orchard.
Certain fruits develop their best flavour only after storage or ripening off the tree. European pears, for example, are often harvested when mature but not yet ripe. They’re then ripened indoors, which can take practice to perfect. Some apples also improve after a few weeks in cold storage. If you’ve never tasted these fruits at their peak, you might not know what you’re missing—or whether you’re up for the extra steps involved in post-harvest handling.
Tasting helps you discover these subtleties and decide whether a particular variety fits your preferences and lifestyle. Do you want fruit you can eat straight off the tree, or are you willing to store and wait?
Choose varieties you will look forward to eating
Another reason tasting is important is that fruit grown locally will taste different than the same variety grown in a different climate. The term “terroir,” commonly used in wine production, applies here too. Soil, temperature, rainfall, and even sun exposure all influences the final flavour of a fruit.
Tasting also invites you to explore the world of fruit more deeply. Most people are familiar with only a handful of commercial apple and pear varieties, but there are thousands of cultivars with wildly different characteristics.
This process is also educational. You’ll notice details: how sugar and acid balance affects taste, how texture influences enjoyment, or how ripening times vary. This makes you a better gardener, more attuned to your trees, harvest timing, and culinary uses. It’s also a social activity that can connect you with other gardeners, farmers, and enthusiasts. Orchard trees aren’t cheap. Between the cost of trees, soil preparation, tools, fencing, water, and years of care, starting an orchard is a significant investment. Time, space, and labour are also finite resources in a garden. Choosing a fruit that doesn’t appeal to your taste means all of that investment delivers something you might not even want to eat.
When it comes to enhancing your garden’s functionality and appearance, the right accessories make all the difference. Whether you’re looking to support towering blooms, secure your property, or add a touch of style and practicality with decking and gates, it’s essential to invest in well-chosen, durable products.
Tall perennials like delphiniums, peonies, and hollyhocks can bring height and elegance to any garden, but without the right support, they are prone to flopping over, especially in windy or rainy weather. The best plant supports are both practical and discreet, allowing your plants to shine while keeping them upright.
When choosing supports, consider the growth habit of the plant. For bushier perennials, circular supports or grow-through rings work well, while single-stemmed flowers benefit from individual stakes or tripod-style supports. Always install supports early in the growing season so plants can grow through them rather than requiring later intervention that may damage stems or flowers.
Fencing plays a vital role in defining garden boundaries, providing privacy, and enhancing security. But beyond function, a well-chosen fence also contributes to the aesthetic of your outdoor space.
There are many fencing options available, from traditional wooden panels and picket fences to modern composite or metal designs. For a natural look, timber fences remain popular, particularly pressure-treated or hardwood options, which resist rot and weathering. Lap panels offer privacy, while open-slatted designs allow airflow and a lighter feel. When buying fencing, think about maintenance. Painted or stained fences require occasional upkeep, while treated wood or composite alternatives are more lowmaintenance.
Decking is a versatile and attractive way to create usable space in the garden for seating, entertaining, or simply enjoying the outdoors. When buying decking, the two main options are wood and composite.
Timber decking, often made from softwoods like pine or more durable hardwoods like oak, gives a classic and warm appearance. However, it does require regular treatment to prevent rot, mould, and fading. Composite decking—made from a mix of wood fibres and plastic—is
You can control your shrubs and climbers this autumn using Rivelin Glen Products uniquely designed Wire Anchors. They are quick and easy to attach to concrete posts (without drilling) to act as an ‘eye’ by threading wire through them to create a trellising system.
The Gripple Trellising System is ideal to use with the anchors as the wire does not stretch, takes up to 100kg load & has a life of up to 15 years. Multiple rows can be achieved with one length of wire and two tensioners. No more sore hands or sagging wires!
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a more recent innovation. It mimics the look of wood but requires less maintenance and has better resistance to moisture and insects.
Consider the location before purchasing: shaded or damp areas will benefit from antislip surfaces. Also, ensure you have proper sub-frame support to avoid sagging and water pooling, which can lead to long-term damage.
Wooden gates serve both a functional and decorative purpose, offering security and a sense of welcome at the same time. Whether for driveways, side entrances, or pedestrian pathways, the right gate can significantly boost your garden’s overall look.
When buying a gate, choose treated timber to withstand the elements. Popular options include tongue-and-groove gates for a solid, private barrier or open-slatted designs for a more airy feel.
Somerlap, based in Mark, Somerset have been supplying a wide range of quality wooden garden sheds, fencing, garden furniture and decking since 1991.They offer high-quality garden products that are both competitively priced and built to last. The timber is sourced sustainably with many of their products proudly made in Somerset. Since 1991 the business been crafting their own quality garden products on a five-acre site in Mark. Alongside own creations, they carefully select and stock complementary garden products from trusted manufacturers. As a fully employeeowned business, they provide exceptional customer service and aftercare. The knowledgeable team is also on hand to offer advice and help design bespoke outdoor living solutions tailored to your needs.
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At Somerlap our range of quality garden products is both competitively priced and built to last. Our timber comes from sustainable sources with many of our products made in Somerset.
Grasses are still not appreciated enough in garden design. Their ability to offer structure, movement, year-round beauty, and ecological value makes them a great choice for any gardener — regardless of the style or size of the garden. There’s a grass for every situation and design vision.
Grasses are often the unsung heroes of garden design. They are frequently overshadowed by flowering perennials and architectural shrubs but grasses offer a unique blend of texture, movement, form, and year-round interest that few other plant groups can rival.
Whether soft and flowing or upright and architectural, ornamental grasses play a critical role in shaping the aesthetic and atmosphere of a garden. Their versatility, resilience, and beauty make them indispensable in both traditional and contemporary landscapes.
Increasingly whether it’s the odd ornamental grass planted in a border or a group together as part of a formal design grasses are so important in garden design. They influence the overall look and style of a space, and there is now a list of super grasses that are widely used in gardens across the world today.
Grasses provide essential vertical and horizontal structure in any planting scheme. From tall, upright plumes to low, spreading mounds, they offer a variety of shapes that help unify or contrast with other elements in the garden. In more naturalistic plantings, grasses often serve as the ‘bones’ of the design—offering rhythm, repetition, and cohesion.
One of the most magical qualities of grasses is their ability to move with the wind. This dynamic quality brings life to the garden. As breezes pass through, grasses sway and rustle, creating a soothing soundscape and a sense of tranquillity. Few other plants contribute this kinetic energy to a garden space.
Unlike many flowering plants that have a limited season of interest, most ornamental grasses offer year-round appeal. Many varieties turn golden, russet, or bronze in autumn and maintain an attractive seed head structure through winter. They are especially striking when touched by frost or silhouetted against low winter sun.
Grasses are generally drought-tolerant, pest-resistant, and require minimal upkeep. Once established, they often need little more than an annual cutback. This makes them ideal for sustainable and low-maintenance gardening, especially in times of increasing water restrictions and changing climate conditions.
Beyond aesthetics, grasses play an important ecological role. They provide shelter and habitat for insects, birds, and small mammals. Many native grasses also support
pollinators and contribute to soil health through their deep root systems, which help prevent erosion and promote soil aeration.
In contemporary garden design, grasses like calamagrostis or miscanthus are often used for their clean lines and architectural form. Their upright habits and uniform appearance suit minimalist spaces, softening hard landscaping like concrete, metal, or timber.
Popularised by designers like Piet Oudolf, naturalistic and prairie-style gardens rely heavily on grasses to create layered, flowing plant communities. In these gardens, grasses provide the matrix through which perennials rise and fall, echoing patterns found in nature. The trick to getting the look right in your own garden is to choose
plenty of each variety of flower or grass, and repeat plant them in a free-flowing style that celebrates form, structure and texture.
Often set against a backdrop of grasses that shift and ripple in the breeze, the stems and leaf forms of individual flowers are as important as the shape and colour of the petals.
Even in more traditional gardens, grasses can offer a fresh contrast to flowering borders. Soft, billowing varieties like Stipa tenuissima or Deschampsia add a light, airy feel that complements romantic or informal planting styles.
In small spaces, grasses can add drama without taking up much room. Tall grasses in pots or planters provide vertical interest and privacy screening, while low mounding grasses can soften hard edges in tight, urban gardens.
Miscanthus sinensis (Maiden Grass)
Season of Interest: Summer to winter growing up to eight feet. Tall, upright clumps with feathery flower plumes in late summer. Foliage turns golden or reddish in autumn. Ideal for screening, back of borders, or as specimen plants. Adds height and texture to a garden. Miscanthus is one of the most popular ornamental grasses due to its stately form and showy plumes. Cultivars like ‘Morning Light’, ‘Gracillimus’, and ‘Silberfeder’ are widely grown. Pennisetum alopecuroides (Fountain Grass)
Season of Interest: Late summer to autumn growing up to four feet.
Graceful arching foliage with bottlebrush-like flowers that resemble foxtails. Perfect in mass plantings, borders, or containers. Varieties such as ‘Hameln’ or ‘Red Head’ are popular for their lush, rounded form and tactile seed heads. They thrive in sunny, well-drained positions.
Stipa tenuissima (Mexican Feather Grass)
Season of interest: Spring to autumn growing to two feet.: Fine, hair-like foliage that moves beautifully in the wind. Pale golden seed heads add lightness.: Great for edging, mass planting, or mixing into gravel gardens. Stipa tenuissima adds a soft, ethereal quality to gardens. It self-seeds readily, which can be either a benefit or a drawback depending on the design intent.
Calamagrostis × acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’
Season of Interest: Late spring to winter and growing to six feet. Upright, vertical growth with tall flower spikes that last into winter. Excellent for structure and vertical emphasis in borders or modern schemes. ‘Karl Foerster’ is a reliable, clump-forming grass with strong architectural presence. Its ability to stand tall through winter makes it a designer’s favourite.
Hakonechloa macra (Japanese Forest Grass)
Season of Interest: Spring to autumn and only growing to one to two feet. Graceful, cascading foliage; often in shades of lime green or gold (e.g., ‘Aureola’).
Ideal for shade gardens, edging, or underplanting in woodland settings. This shade-tolerant grass adds a splash of colour and movement, perfect for softening paths or spilling over raised beds.
Deschampsia cespitosa (Tufted Hair Grass)
Season of Interest: Summer to winter, Grows to four feet
Delicate, airy flower heads rise above mounded foliage. Attractive in the morning or evening light. Naturalistic and wildlife gardens, mixed borders. Deschampsia is a good choice for cooler, moist areas of the garden and provides a fine-textured counterpoint to bolder plants.
Molinia caerulea (Purple Moor Grass)
Season of Interest: Summer to autumn and grows to two metres. Graceful arching growth with narrow flower stems. Autumn foliage turns brilliant yellow or bronze.
Great in naturalistic plantings and open borders.
Cultivars like ‘Karl Foerster’ (compact) and ‘Transparent’ (tall and airy) are frequently used to introduce subtle movement and light-catching structure.
Panicum virgatum (Switchgrass)
Season of Interest: Mid-summer to winter and an impressive eight feet in height. Upright form with airy flower panicles and dramatic autumn colour in reds, oranges, and golds.
Excellent for year-round interest, structure, and native plantings. Varieties such as ‘Heavy Metal’, ‘Shenandoah’, and ‘Northwind’ are highly sought after for their colour and reliable form.
Grasses are a critical yet often underappreciated element in garden design. Their ability to offer structure, movement, year-round beauty, and ecological value makes them a smart choice for any gardener—regardless of the style or size of the garden. From bold architectural varieties to finetextured mounds, there’s a grass for every situation and design vision.
By incorporating a thoughtful mix of grasses, you can elevate the look and feel of your garden, introduce rhythm and harmony, and create a living tapestry that changes beautifully through the seasons.
By incorporating a thoughtful mix of grasses, you can elevate the look and feel of your garden, introduce rhythm and harmony, and create a living tapestry that changes beautifully through the seasons.
So next time you’re planning a garden bed or refreshing a border, consider grasses not as background players but as stars in their own right.
If you have any question you need answering email editorial@countrygardener.co.uk
We have just moved into a new quite big garden and the soil is full of clay. What can I do to improve the quality without relying on chemical inputs?
Fran Pritchard Kelmsworth
Clay soils are common in many new gardens and, while nutrient-rich, they can be heavy, slow-draining, and prone to compaction. To improve clay soil organically and for long-term fertility there are a few things you can do. Add organic matter annually compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mould to break up clay particles and improve structure. Use green manures like crimson clover, mustard, or winter rye during fallow periods. Their roots help break up the soil and add biomass. Apply gypsum (calcium sulphate) sparingly this can improve clay structure without affecting pH like lime does. Embrace no-dig principles layering organic materials on top encourages earthworms to do the work of aeration. Finally mulch deeply to retain moisture and prevent cracking in summer. Over two to three years, your clay soil can be transformed into a friable, productive growing medium with the right care.
I’m trying to grow wasabi in Hampshire – is this feasible and what are the conditions I need to achieve this?
Heather Niam Petersfield
Yes, growing wasabi is possible in your Hampshire garden but it requires highly specific conditions and patience. Wasabi (Wasabia japonica) is native to cool, shady mountain stream beds in Japan. Ideal conditions include constant temperatures between 8–20°C and high humidity. Water is also crucial – either running water (stream-side planting) or carefully controlled watering in pots or hydroponics. Shade is non-negotiable as being necessary 75 per-cent shade is ideal. Use netting or plant under dense canopies. Soil must be free-draining but moisture-retentive – think loamy, slightly acidic (pH 6–7), and rich in organic matter. Damp, temperate microclimates are more suited to outdoor cultivation, but polytunnel or greenhouse setups with misting systems can simulate ideal conditions.
Can you recommend a specific companion planting chart for pest control in a no-spray garden? My Somerset garden is sheltered, organic and south facing.
Peter Larter Bath
Companion planting is an essential technique for organic pest control. The list is a large one but here are the most popular options to plant side by side.
Carrots Onions, leeks Deter carrot fly. Brassicas (e.g. cabbage) Nasturtiums Lure cabbage white butterflies away.
Tomatoes Basil Repels whiteflies; improves growth.
Runner beans Sweetcorn Provides natural support.
Lettuce Chives, garlic Deter aphids and slugs. Potatoes Horseradish Repels Colorado beetles (rare in UK but increasing).
Cucumbers Calendula Attracts pollinators and beneficial insects. Always rotate crops and plant trap crops like sacrificial nasturtiums or radishes early to divert pests.
I don’t have any artificial heating in my large greenhouse which I’ve only had a couple of seasons and don’t like the idea of it but however I suppose I want the best of both worlds by trying to extend the growing season as much as I can. Are there any ideas for doing this?
Derek Wells Dawlish
A lot of gardeners are increasingly keen to lengthen the indoor growing season well into October and beyond and it is well worth the effort. There are several things you can do.
Fleece or bubble wrap is very effective as we head into the winter months, line the interior walls in winter to trap warmth. Try introducing raised beds to the interior of your greenhouse. Soil warms faster and drains better than ground-level beds. You can try putting portable cold frames or cloches within the greenhouse which can double insulation for early autumn sowings. Also pay attention to autumn sown crops by opting for cold-tolerant crops like spinach, chard, lamb’s lettuce, pak choi, and hardy spring onions in autumn and winter. For early spring starts, sow seeds in plug trays and insulate them with propagation mats or homemade heated beds using compost heat or hot water bottles.
I am increasingly fascinated by rare or heritage vegetables and now I have some more time on my hands ( I retired in February) I’d like to see what I can achieve.
Peter Wilson Kenton
Growing heritage and rare UK vegetables preserves biodiversity and can bring unique flavours and resilience to your plot. Start with Heritage Seed Library (Garden Organic) – which offers a whole range of seeds offers not available commercially.
You can enjoy yourself by testing old favourites like:
• ‘Scorzonera’ – a root veg similar to salsify (pictured above).
• ‘Tree Collards’ – perennial brassicas.
• ‘Blue Coco’ climbing bean – a purple-podded variety.
• ‘Crimson Flowered Broad Bean’ – highly ornamental and tasty. Start small, monitor how they are growing performance, and save seeds to maintain the strain. These plants often do well in organic systems due to deep genetics and regional adaptability.
What’s the best regenerative method to restore a tired, overworked allotment plot? I have just inherited one which I don’t think has been worked on for about five years. I am prepared to be patient and do it properly and not rush it.
Malcolm Davies Exeter
Your point about not rushing things is well made as you will probably need a 12 month plan to sort out the site, address the soil issues, add lots of compost and mulch, sow a diverse cover crop and then and finally plan what you want to grow and ideally install wildlife zones. Tidying up obviously comes first. Then the site needs to be mulched heavily with four to six inches of compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure. Introduce mycorrhizal fungi to enhance root uptake and see if you can employ no-dig methods to maintain soil microbiota. You may think about planting a diverse cover crop. Try a mix of buckwheat, phacelia, red clover, and rye to boost organic matter and attract pollinators.
You should expect to see real improvement after 12 months.
I have a very old and neglected apple tree which needs a lot of pruning and sorting out. How do I go about this without harming it permanently?
Mattie Lester Bridport
Reviving a apple tree which is in a bad state probably needs to be done gradually over at least two seasons to avoid shock. In the first season Remove dead, diseased, or crossing branches and clear suckers from the base and sprouts from the trunk. Try and reduce 20 to 25 per-cent of the canopy, focusing on improving airflow and light. That should allow for improvement. You will then need to prune for shape aiming for an open-centre (goblet shape). Cut just above a bud pointing in the direction you want the branch to grow. The principles you are trying to achieve include accepting that winter pruning encourages growth; summer pruning limits it. Always use sharp, clean tools to prevent infection. Apply a mulch ring around the base but keep it away from the trunk.
I’m dealing with persistent clubroot in my brassica beds again and it is putting me off growing this type of plant. What are advanced strategies to eliminate it?
Jonathan Prescott Newton Abbott
Clubroot, a soil-borne fungal disease, is notoriously difficult to eradicate, but it is possible. You need to raise the soil pH to 7.2–7.5 use garden lime as clubroot thrives in acidic soil. Rotate crops with non-brassicas for at least three years and improve the drainage where you are growing. Clubroot loves waterlogged soil. You could try growing resistant varieties like ‘Kilaton’ or ‘Clapton’ cabbage. Clubroot spores can live for 20 years in soil, so prevention is key once you’ve had an outbreak.
I have an established Indian Bean tree which was planted 30 years ago and now seems to be slowly dying. It rarely flowers and branches are beginning to die. Is there anything I can do to help it recover?
Nick French Dorchester
Indian Bean Trees (Catalpa bignonioides or Catalpa speciosa) are usually quite resilient and can live much longer, so it’s worth investigating what might be going wrong.
Even established trees can suffer during prolonged dry periods or inconsistent watering. The signs are wilting, leaf drop, dead branches, failure to flower. Deep water during dry spells (especially in summer) and use mulch around the base to retain moisture, but keep it away from the trunk.
Soil compaction over years (e.g. from foot traffic or construction) can reduce oxygen to the roots. Aerate the soil around the root zone gently (avoid damaging roots). Apply organic compost or a slow-release tree fertiliser in spring to stimulate root health.
Past digging or construction nearby could have harmed the root system. Water well during dry periods and void further disturbance. Consider a professional tree inspection to assess root health.
Catalpas are moderately susceptible to Verticillium wilt, a soil-borne fungus that affects the vascular system. Prune out affected branches back to healthy wood (sterilise tools after each cut). Dispose of pruned material (do not compost). There’s no cure, but you can improve the tree’s overall vigour with watering, mulching, and fertilising.
How do I organically control slugs in a large garden without harming wildlife? We seem even in this very dry season when I would have thought they were not going to be a problem to be overrun by them in borders and in my four raised beds.
Bill Archer Cheltenham Slug control in the UK can be handled in an organic and eco-friendly way with a multipronged approach. Encourage natural predators – frogs, birds, hedgehogs, and ground beetles thrive in wildlife-friendly gardens. Use beer traps strategically but check and empty daily to avoid harming beetles. Mulch with sharp materials – like crushed eggshells.
Our popular gardening themed crossword is compiled by Saranda which over the past year has become enormously popular with readers. The winning entry to be drawn by us will receive £100 of RHS gift tokens. Completed entries should be sent to Mount House, Halse, Taunton, Somerset TA4 3AD. Closing date Friday 26th September. The July winner was Thomas Bradley from Minehead.
Twelve questions to test your knowledge
1. What is the ideal soil pH range for most vegetable gardens?
2. Which nutrient is primarily responsible for promoting root development in plants?
3. What is the botanical term for plants that complete their life cycle in one year?
4. Which gardening technique involves cutting and attaching a stem or bud from one plant to another plant?
5. Which part of the plant is primarily responsible for photosynthesis?
6. Which type of mulch breaks down the fastest: straw, bark chips, or shredded leaves?
7. Which vegetable is known for depleting nitrogen from the soil and should be rotated carefully?
8. What is the main function of mycorrhizal fungi in the soil?
9. What is the term for growing plants without soil, using mineral nutrient solutions in water?
10. What type of pruning is best done during the plant's dormant season to encourage new growth in spring?
11. Which micronutrient is essential for chlorophyll production but often deficient in alkaline soils?
12. Name one organic method to control aphid infestations in the garden.?
BARTLETT
BERGAMOTTE
BETH
BEURRÉ HARDY
BONNE LOUISE
BRISTOL CROSS
COMICE
CONCORDE
CONFERENCE
DOYENNÉ
DUCHESS
DURONDEAU
EDEN
FLEMISH BEAUTY
FONDANTE
GLOU MORCEAU
HESSLE
INVINCIBLE
JARGONELLE
JOSEPHINE DE MALINES
LOUISE BONNE
MERTON
ONWARD
PACKHAM’S TRIUMPH
PITMASTON
SECKEL
WINTER NELIS
Hard pruning, 11. Iron ( Fe), 12. Spraying plants with a mixture of water and insecticidal soap or introducing ladybugs (natural predators).
They form symbiotic relationships with plant roots, improving nutrient and water uptake, 9.
DOZEN: 1 .6.0 to 7.0, 2. Phosphorus (P), 3.
ACROSS
1. A type of shoe traditionally worn by Alpine climbers (9)
6. An agave plant used in making mescal (6)
9. Water (4)
13. A distinct form of plant species occupying a particular habitat (7)
14. Family classification of plants in the Hydrangea genus (13)
15. Having a well-developed, above-ground stem (10)
16. Infants or young animals that are suckled (9)
18. Colloquial name for members of the Araceae family (5)
19. Nardus stricta, a perennial that thrives in poor soil (3, 5)
20. Old term for a potent ale (6)
22. A primitive tool used for cutting rocks (5, 3)
24. The quality of being diverse and composed of different elements (12)
26. Let slip a scorching vegetable and abandoned abruptly? (7, 4, 1, 3, 6)
29. Popular actor who starred in the Torture Garden (1967) (5, 7)
30. Wiltshire stately home with Capability Brown landscaped gardens (8)
33. A persecuted minority who lived in western France and northern Spain (6)
34. Hospitalfield gardens are a feature of this Scotland town (8)
35. New Zealand shrub sometimes called mousehole tree (5)
38. All people have equal powers in this form of government (9)
39. Phytolacca acinosa or inkberry (6, 4)
42. A perfumed sweetmeat for sweetening the breath (7, 6)
43. Covered with the fruit of the oak tree (7)
44. Name of large New Zealand coniferous tree (4)
45. Anna ______, English actress who appeared in three episodes of Darling Buds of May (6)
46. Dessert apples with name meaning little queen in English (9)
DOWN
1. A small African tree which bears oily nuts (4)
2. Persea americana or alligator pear (7)
3. Small plant-feeding insects such as jumping plant lice (8)
4. Woody perennial plants with a single stem or trunk (5)
5. Having sheath-formed stipules (8)
6. An extremely damaging agricultural pest, Ceratitis capitata (13, 5, 3)
7. Popular green apples that originated in Australia (6, 6)
8. An archaic term for a nest (6)
10. Daucus carota or wild carrot (5, 4, 4)
11. Strong hatreds or feelings of dislike (9)
12. A type of beauty salon specialising in manicures and pedicures (4, 6)
17. A bug that causes damage to foliage and aborts flower buds (6)
19. A bud containing rudimentary flowers and foliage leaves (5, 3)
21. Erythronium dens-canis or ________ violet (8)
23. A formerly accepted genus of orchid first named in 1816 by Karl Kunth (13)
25. Belonging to a suborder of plants such as chicory (12)
27. A synthetic insecticide that mimics natural compounds found in chrysanthemums (10)
28. To surpass another in cunning ways (6)
29. Someone who enjoys an informal meal alfresco (9)
31. A stalk-like structure in certain flowers that supports the ovary (9)
32. A person who goes behind a reaper and binds sheaves of wheat (8)
36. A plant of the borage family, typically with blue leaves (7)
37. The part of a pistil that receives the pollen during pollination (6)
40. A famous Italian violin maker (5)
41. Japanese spikenard, a winter vegetable often eaten as tempura (4)
Green roofs, also known as living roofs, are gardens grown on rooftops. They offer a unique gardening challenge—and opportunity—for enthusiasts who want to extend their green thumbs upward.
From a gardener’s point of view, a green roof is a challenge and an exciting frontier. It combines ecology, design, and horticulture and demands imagination. Whether it’s a low-maintenance sedum tapestry or a lush pollinator haven with wildflowers and herbs, green roofs can become an oasis on rooftops of all types. Green roofs range from roof gardens with raised beds and pots, to rolled-out green carpets, to shed roofs containing planting cells that are filled with soil or compost and planted up with low growing perennials and grasses.
Technically a green roof is a layered system installed on top of a building. It typically includes a waterproof membrane, root barrier, drainage layer, growing medium (a lightweight soil substitute), and vegetation. From a gardener’s perspective, it’s a raised bed with additional constraints: limited soil depth, potential high winds, greater sun exposure, and sometimes restricted access.
There are two main types:
Shallow two or three inches of soil, lightweight, and low maintenance - ideal for mosses, sedums, grasses, and droughttolerant perennials.
Deeper soil six inches to several feet, allowing for larger plants including shrubs and small trees.
From an ecological standpoint, green roofs help manage stormwater, reduce the urban heat island effect, and provide habitats for pollinators. But from a gardener’s perspective, they open new possibilities: a quiet green retreat, a haven for native species, or simply a beautiful view from above.
Most rooftops are exposed to full sun and high winds. Plants must tolerate intense heat and drying conditions. Windbreaks such as trellises or parapet walls and mulching can help reduce stress on plants.
Soil weight is a critical concern. Light, well-draining substrates are used instead of garden soil. This limits the root space available and affects which plants can thrive.
Many green roofs are not irrigated regularly. Plants need to be droughttolerant or installed with drip irrigation systems. Mulching also helps retain moisture.
Choose low-maintenance plants that don’t need constant pruning or feeding. Access to the roof may be limited, and safety is always a concern.
There are specific plant choices wellsuited to rooftop gardens, especially those with shallow or medium soil depths.
Sedums are the backbone of extensive green roofs. These hardy succulents are ideal for shallow soil, require little water, and offer seasonal interest with flowers, colours, and textures.
Sedum acre - Bright yellow flowers in summer.
Sedum album - Evergreen with pinkish tones in cold weather.
Sedum spurium - Ground-hugging, spreads well, available in red and green varieties.
Sedum reflexum - Needle-like leaves, drought tolerant.
These are often planted as mats or plugs and form a dense, low-maintenance carpet.
Ornamental grasses offer movement, texture, and drought tolerance.
Festuca glauca (Blue fescue) - Clumpforming, silver-blue colour, good in full sun.
Deschampsia cespitosa (Tufted hairgrass)
- Feathery flower heads, tolerant of varied moisture levels.
Carex species - (Ideal for deeper soils or damper corners, many varieties available.
Wildflowers and perennials
Adding diversity to a green roof improves its ecological value and beauty. Choose native or well-adapted perennials for pollinator-friendly planting.
Echinacea purpurea (Purple coneflower)
- Drought tolerant, excellent for bees and butterflies.
Achillea millefolium (Yarrow) - Hardy, fern-like foliage, blooms throughout summer.
Allium species - Ornamental onions provide spring and early summer interest, and they’re great for pollinators.
Herbs and edibles (for intensive roofs)
If the soil depth and access allow, consider culinary plants. These can thrive in containers or deeper beds.
Thyme - Groundcover habit, purple blooms, aromatic.
Oregano - Hardy, easy to grow, doubles as ornamental.
Chives - edible and decorative.
Strawberries - Hardy varieties like alpine strawberries work well in containers or beds.
For larger roofs, even dwarf fruit trees or tomatoes in containers are possible.
Shrubs and small trees (intensive roofs only)
If the soil depth exceeds 18 inches and structural load permits, you can introduce woody plants.
Juniperus horizontalis (Creeping juniper)
- Evergreen groundcover, wind-resistant. Amelanchier alnifolia (Serviceberry)Small native tree with flowers, berries, and fall colour.
Rosa rugosa - Hardy, shrubby rose with hips for wildlife.
A successful green roof is not just about choosing the toughest plants—it’s about understanding the microclimate and tailoring your approach to it.
Diversity: Mix sedums with wildflowers for a richer ecosystem.
Colour: Use perennials with varying bloom times for seasonal change.
Structure: Create focal points with grasses or planters.
Pollinators: Choose nectar-rich plants to support bees and butterflies.
Plan for year-round interest: Evergreen sedums, winter seedheads, and coloured foliage add off-season appeal.
• Check whether planning permission is required.
• Check with a chartered structural engineer or surveyor that the roof will be able to take the weight of the design you have in mind.
• If your design is complicated, get plans drawn up by an architect specialising in roof gardens.
• Consider whether contractors will have access to build the garden, and how easy it will be for you to maintain once installed.
• Roof gardens can be subject to strong winds, with turbulence on the leeward side of solid walls and fences. Use slatted or mesh screens where possible, as they filter the wind before it hits the garden.
If you'd like to contribute your own gardening letter or story, we'd love to hear it. Contact us via email at editorial@countrygardener.co.uk
This summer, my tomato plants have outdone themselves. I've always grown the usual suspects—'Gardener's Delight', 'Moneymaker'—but this year I tried heirlooms: 'Brandywine' and 'Black Krim'. What a revelation! The flavour is deep, almost smoky, and they’ve become the stars of every salad and sandwich in our house. I started them indoors in February on a sunny windowsill, moving them into the greenhouse by April. A trick I learned from my grandfather: bury the stems deep, right up to the first leaves. It makes for a stronger root system. And don't forget to pinch outside shoots! Watering was a challenge during the June heatwave. I mulched heavily with straw to keep moisture in, and that made all the difference. I am have to say very pleased with my efforts.
Sarah Davenport Barnstable
Your excellent magazine’s coverage of wildlife gardens has inspired me this year and I wanted to share it with you. After years of growing only ornamental plants, I’ve turned part of my smallish garden just outside Gloucester into a mini wildlife haven. I swapped my manicured lawn for a patch of native wildflowers—oxeye daisies, red clover, and yarrow. Within weeks, bees, butterflies, and even a hedgehog turned up. I also added a small pond (no more than a metre wide) and filled it with native aquatic plants. Frogs arrived seemingly overnight which thrilled my daughters. The garden feels alive now in a way it never did before. It’s been a joy watching everything grow, bloom, and buzz. If you’re thinking of doing the same, I would encourage you to start small, perhaps a corner bed or a window box of pollinator plants. The whole experience has been very rewarding, and I now must decide whether to extend the experiment.
James Trent Gloucester
If there were an Olympic event for slug wrestling, I’d surely take some sort of medal. This year even though the weather has been very dry for some reason I haven’t been able to fathom the slugs are thriving. My lettuces didn’t stand a chance at first. I’ve found a combination that works: beer traps (they love it more than I do), copper tape, and nightly patrols with a torch. I also started planting more slug-resistant varieties, turns out they dislike herbs like rosemary and sage, which now line my vegetable beds. Encouraging natural predators has helped too. I’ve built a log pile to invite beetles, and I even spotted a frog the other evening!
Derek Archer Minehead
Don’t overlook autumn planting! While many take it easier after the hard hot work of summer, I find it the perfect time to prepare for next year. The soil is still warm, there's often more rain, and perennials planted now settle in beautifully. Last September, I planted foxgloves, delphiniums, and rudbeckia. This summer, they came up stronger and earlier than anything I’ve ever spring planted. Bulbs, too oh, the bulbs! I’ve just finished planting 200 tulips and narcissus. A backache now, but come April, I’ll forget all about it.
Grantham Lyme
It made me smile when I read in your magazine one of your readers praise for Mark Hinsley. She suggests a fan club. I would very happily sign up to join. His articles are I think inspirational. He writes with such passion and love of trees, their history and their implications and effect on our lives. In a lovely magazine it is something extra special to look forward to and long may he stay writing for you.
Anna Graham Bristol
My greenhouse diary
This is my third year with a greenhouse, and I finally feel like I am starting to know what I’m doing. It’s a small six foot by eight-foot structure, but it has transformed my gardening. I grow chillies, peppers, aubergines, and start all my seeds early in spring. This year I trialled bottom heat with a heated propagator which I have to say makes a real difference! My seedlings were sturdier and quicker to transplant. Ventilation has been crucial. I installed an automatic vent opener and shade netting, which kept temperatures bearable during the heat spikes. If you’ve got room, even for a lean-to, do consider it.
Chrstine Salmon Poole
I love your magazine and really look forward to picking it up every month. I’ve recently begun gardening with my two young children, aged five and seven. At first, I thought it might be a novelty that would wear off—but it’s turned into a shared joy. We’ve started with easy, fast-growing plants: radishes, sunflowers, nasturtiums. They adore the instant gratification and seeing “their” plants grow has made them proud. We’ve also dedicated one raised bed entirely to their ideas, some a bit chaotic! Gardening with kids isn’t just about growing food or flowers; it’s about growing curiosity, patience, and a connection with the soil.
I wanted to share the joy of being part of a community allotment project. In the middle of a busy city, we’ve created a shared growing space for about 15 households. We grow everything from potatoes to pak choi, but more importantly, we’ve built a little community. Every Saturday morning, we meet to weed, plant, or just chat over coffee. Some members are experienced, some are total beginners. We share seeds, surplus crops, and ideas. One of my favourite moments this year was when a toddler picked his first strawberry – his grin said it all. If you have space in your area, consider organising a shared plot. It brings people together in ways that are truly nourishing.
Priya Mullaini Bristol
Growing liquorice is a rewarding project for gardeners who enjoy cultivating unique and useful plants. It takes time before you can harvest the sweet, aromatic roots, the plant’s attractive foliage and nitrogenfixing ability make it a valuable addition to a diverse garden.
With the right care and a little patience, you can enjoy homegrown liquorice for years to come.
Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) is a fascinating perennial herb known for its sweet-tasting roots, which have been used for centuries in traditional medicine, confectionery, and herbal teas. Native to southern Europe and parts of Asia, liquorice can be grown in the home garden under the right conditions, although it requires patience and a bit of planning.
Liquorice thrives in warm, temperate climates with full sun. It prefers a long growing season, which is why the south west is ideal. However, it can tolerate light frosts once established. In cooler regions, it may be grown in large containers and overwintered in a greenhouse or indoors.
Choose a sunny, sheltered spot in the garden with at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Liquorice plants grow up to five feet tall and spread significantly via underground runners, so give them plenty of room to expand.
One of the keys to growing healthy liquorice is well-drained, deep, sandy soil. The plant develops long taproots—sometimes up to a metre deep—which makes loose, friable soil essential.
Avoid heavy clay soils, as they retain water and can lead to root rot.
Before planting, prepare the bed by loosening the soil deeply and mixing in organic compost or well-rotted manure.
The soil should be slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH range of 6.0 to 8.0. Liquorice is typically propagated by root cuttings or divisions rather than seeds, as seed germination can be slow and unreliable.
In early spring or autumn, take six inches sections of root from an established plant and plant them horizontally an inch deep in moist soil.
Space plants about three feet apart to allow for their spreading habit. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during the first year as the plant establishes its root system. Once mature, liquorice is somewhat drought-tolerant but will perform best with regular watering during dry periods.
Mulch around the base of the plant to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Liquorice doesn’t require heavy feeding, but an annual application of compost or an all-purpose organic fertilizer in spring will encourage growth.
Because of its vigorous spreading via underground rhizomes, liquorice can become invasive in some settings.
Consider installing root barriers or growing it in large containers if space is limited.
Growing liquorice requires patience, as the roots aren’t ready for harvest until the plant is at least three years old. This allows time for the roots to develop the depth, flavour, and sweetness that liquorice is known for.
Harvest in late autumn, once the aerial growth begins to die back.
Carefully dig up the plant and cut off sections of root. You can replant part of the root to continue growing. Clean, dry, and store the harvested roots in a cool, dry place. Roots can also be dried and ground into powder or steeped in hot water for tea.
Liquorice is generally pest-resistant, but watch for aphids, spider mites, and root rot if conditions are too damp.
Avoid overhead watering, and ensure good air circulation to keep fungal issues at bay.
Devon teacher and gardener Paula French shares her passion for growing chrysanthemums not just in the autumn but all year round
I never meant to fall head over heels for chrysanthemums. Honestly, I used to think of them as those stiff little supermarket bunches you buy in a panic on the way to see your mum on her birthday. You know the ones—plastic wrap, vaguely lemon-scented, colours that scream at you. In not a nice way but then I grew one. And that was it—I was hooked.
My first chrysanthemum was a humble pot from a garden centre clearance shelf. It looked a little tired, like it had seen better days, but I took it home. I gave it a fresh pot, a little feed, and whispered a few gentle apologies for letting it sit next to halfprice begonias. Within two weeks, it perked up, and by the end of the month, it had burst into a mass of buttery yellow blooms.
That’s the thing about chrysanthemums -once they’ve got your heart, you start seeing them differently. They’re not just autumn flowers—they’re companions for every season, if you know how to work with them.
Growing them all year round has become a bit of a mission. People scoff when I say that. ‘Aren’t they just autumn flowers?’ they ask. Yes and no. The traditional garden chrysanthemums do put on their big show in autumn, but with a little planning and maybe a touch of obsession you can enjoy them in one form or another 12 months a year.
In winter, I grow hardy varieties in cold frames. They don’t bloom then, of course. I tuck them in with straw mulch, check their roots for rot, and sneak out with a headlamp after frost warnings to throw old towels over the more delicate ones. Spring is when things start to get exciting. That’s when I take my cuttings and suddenly my windowsills are full of little pots. I get a bit sentimental about it. There’s something magical about watching a small slip of green turn into a strong plant, just because you gave it light, warmth, and a bit of time.
Come summer, the real fun begins. I start staggering my planting schedules, spacing out my varieties so I can keep blooms going as long as possible. There are early-flowering types that bloom in July, and late-season varieties that keep going into November. I’ve even coaxed a few into blooming at Christmas with enough lighting and warmth indoors.
By autumn, the whole garden is full of colour—rich burgundies, spicy oranges, creamy whites, pinks that look like blushed porcelain. Pompons, spiders, incurves, daisy-types. Some are as neat as a button, others as as wild looking as the spider and quill forms, with long straight petals, known as Fantasy blooms.
But beyond the blooms, I think what I love most is what chrysanthemums have taught me: patience, attention, and the joy of tending. They ask a lot, sure pinching out, feeding, training. I’ve shared cuttings with neighbours, left surprise bunches on doorsteps, and even sold a few plants at the local market. It’s not just about growing flowers anymore; it’s about sharing a little beauty, a little peace.
So yes, I love chrysanthemums. Fiercely, nerdily, year-round. And if you ever find yourself standing in front of a sad-looking pot at the garden centre, wondering if it’s worth the effort. It is. Take it home. You might just fall in love.
Dividing perennials like hostas, daylilies, and irises in September is one of the best ways to refresh your garden without spending any money. It is a straightforward task to divide your plants without damaging them and set them up better performance next season.
Perennials are the gift that keeps on giving returning year after year with beauty, colour, and structure for your garden. However, over time, even the most reliable perennials like hostas, daylilies, and irises can become overcrowded, leading to poor performance, fewer blooms, or dead centres.
That’s where dividing comes in. Done correctly, this not only revitalizes the plants but also gives you more to share or plant elsewhere.
September is one of the best times to divide many perennials. The soil is still warm, encouraging root growth, and the cooler temperatures reduce transplant shock.
Remember, healthy roots equals healthy plants. Treat your divisions gently, keep them watered, and give them a head start before winter.
Dividing perennials is a vital practice in maintaining a healthy, vibrant, and long-lasting garden. It involves digging up established perennial plants and separating them into smaller sections, each with roots and shoots, which can then be replanted or shared. This process offers numerous benefits for both the plants and the gardener, making it a key part of regular garden maintenance. One of the main reasons to divide perennials is to promote plant health. Over time, many perennials become overcrowded as they grow and spread.
This congestion can lead to poor air circulation, reduced blooming, and increased vulnerability to pests and diseases. By dividing these plants, you give them more space to grow, which encourages better root development and overall vitality.
Divided plants tend to produce more blooms and look fuller and healthier.
Another significant benefit is rejuvenation. As perennials age, their centres can become woody, bare, or less productive, while the outer edges continue to grow.
Dividing allows you to remove and discard the older, less vigorous parts of the plant and keep the younger, more robust sections. This not only extends the life of the plant but also keeps it looking fresh and lush year after year.
Division also provides a cost-effective way to expand your garden. Instead of purchasing new plants, you can use divisions to fill in bare spots, create new beds, or share with fellow gardeners. This multiplication is especially valuable for high-performing or expensive perennials, as it allows you to get more from your initial investment.
Timing and technique are important when dividing perennials.
September is an important month for this task It’s essential to water the plant thoroughly before division and to use clean, sharp tools to minimize stress. After dividing, replant promptly and water well to help the new divisions establish quickly.
While not all perennials should be divided in fall, the following thrive when divided in early to mid-September:
• Hostas
• Daylilies
• Irises
• Peonies (with care)
• Coneflowers
• Black-eyed Susans
• Phlox
Moisten the soil around your perennials deeply the day before you plan to divide them. This helps reduce stress on the plant and makes digging easier.
Aim to divide early in the morning or on a cloudy day to avoid heat stress.
Use a sharp spade to dig around the base of the plant, about 6–12 inches from the crown. Loosen the root ball by gently lifting from multiple angles. Try to keep as much root intact as possible.
Gently lift the plant from the ground. You can use a fork for extra leverage. Once out, shake or wash off excess soil so you can see the root structure.
Use your hands, a garden knife, or even two forks back-toback to split the plant into sections. Each section should have several healthy shoots and a good root system.
• Hostas: Divide into clumps with three to five eyes (growing points). Larger divisions establish faster.
• Daylilies: Look for natural divisions and pull or cut apart the fans. Keep at least two to three fans per division.
• Irises: Snap or cut apart the rhizomes, making sure each piece has a fan of leaves and healthy roots. Discard any soft or diseased rhizomes.
Trim foliage to about six inches to reduce water loss and make planting easier. Don’t let divisions dry out. Replant them right away in well-amended soil. Space them properly (usually two feet apart depending on the plant). Water in well.
Hostas
• Best divided every three to five years
• Early September is ideal—gives time to root before frost.
• Use a sharp knife for thick roots.
• Replant in partial to full shade.
Daylilies
• Divide every three to five yearsyears when bloom starts to decline.
• Loosen soil around the roots gently—they tend to be dense.
• Avoid deep planting; keep crown just below soil surface.
Irises
• Divide every three to four years or when blooming declines.
• Best done six weeks after flowering (usually July–September).
• Replant rhizomes with the top exposed and fan leaves trimmed.
• Avoid over-mulching—irises like dry crowns.
Water immediately after planting, then keep the soil evenly moist (but not soggy) for the next two to three weeks. Water deeply once a week during dry spells.
Apply a light mulch layer to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Avoid covering the crown or rhizome (especially for irises). Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers right after dividing. Use compost or a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in spring instead.Watch for signs of stress: wilting, yellowing, or dieback. Shade new transplants temporarily if hot weather returns.
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Welcome to our September Time off and details of gardening club and association events over the next few weeks throughout the Cotswolds. This is a popular, free service and if you would like to take advantage of it and give events some publicity, then email them to us at editorial@countrygardener.co.uk
9TH
Slimbridge Gardening Club
‘INTRODUCTION TO FORAGING’ - ELISE GOARD email: carole.Jeffes@slimbridgegc.plus.com
11TH
Cheltenham Horticultural Society
‘SOME STARS OF AUTUMN’ - PAUL GREEN Details on 01242 691135 15TH
Wroughton and District Gardeners Society
‘CARNIVOROUS PLANTS’ - DAVID TITE email: secretarywdgs@outlook.com 16TH
Clevedon Gardeners’ Club
‘A PRODUCTIVE YEAR IN A SMALL GREENHOUSE’- NICK MORGAN email: clevedongardeners@gmail.com
17TH
Winchcombe Gardening Club
‘LOST THE PLOT (HISTORY OF ALLOTMENTS)’ - FIONA WARIN Details on 07836 297168
18TH
Newent Gardening Club
‘DIVIDING & POTTING ON’ - PRACTICAL DEMO - DAVID CROPP Details on 01531 820761 26TH - 28TH
Three Counties Showground, Malvern MALVERN AUTUMN SHOW www.malvernautumn.co.uk
Please send us your diary for the year - we’d love to include your talks and shows Send them into us by email giving us 10 weeks notice of the event: timeoff@countrygardener.co.uk or by post to: Mount House, Halse, Taunton, TA4 3AD.
Growing perennial vegetables is a smart choice for gardeners who want to reduce their workload while enjoying yearly harvests and unlike annuals, perennial vegetables regrow every year, often becoming more productive as they mature.
If you’re looking to plant in September, you’re in luck as autumn is an ideal time to get perennials established, especially as the soil is still warm from summer, and moisture is generally more reliable. By planting in September, you’re investing in a garden that will reward you year after year with less effort. Not only do perennials require less maintenance once established, but they also help build healthier soil and provide vital habitat for wildlife.
Rhubarb is a hardy perennial that thrives in the UK climate. While it’s often thought of as a fruit, it’s technically a vegetable. September is a
great time to plant dormant crowns or divide existing plants. Choose a sunny, well-drained spot and avoid harvesting in the first year to allow the plant to establish. Once mature, it can provide stalks for 10 years or more.
Asparagus is a classic perennial that, once established, produces delicious spears every spring for up to 20 years.
In September, you can plant asparagus crowns—the dormant root systems available from many nurseries. It prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Be patient, as the first harvest won’t come until the third year, but the longterm payoff is worth it.
These tall, sunflower-like plants produce knobbly tubers that can be
harvested from late autumn through winter. Though not typically planted from seed, Jerusalem artichokes can be planted from tubers in early autumn. They’re tolerant of most soils and quite low maintenance, though they can become invasive if not managed.
Best planted as young plants in early autumn, globe artichokes are striking architectural plants that also provide edible flower buds. They need full sun and well-drained soil. In milder parts, September planting gives them time to establish before the cold sets in. In colder areas, they may need protection through their first winter.
WELSH ONIONS
Welsh onions are a type of perennial bunching onion. Once planted, they form clumps that you can divide every few years. You can sow seeds or plant sets in early autumn to establish roots before winter. They’re perfect for harvesting green shoots or small bulbs throughout the year.
GOOD KING HENRY
A lesser-known but traditional perennial vegetable in the UK, Good King Henry has been cultivated since medieval times. Its young shoots are like asparagus, and the leaves can be used like spinach. It prefers a sunny or semi-shaded position and rich, welldrained soil. September is a suitable time to plant young plants or sow seeds for spring germination.
Mark Hinsley tells the story of the yew tree and its mythical, mysterious and legendary role in our churchyards
Back in the mists of time new people arrived in what we now call Britain. They brought with them their beliefs, particularly of an ‘Underworld’ populated by deities and ancestors. One of their ways of communicating with spirits and ancestors was through water. The elders would identify a pool near their new farm and this would be the gateway to the underworld through which they would place offerings to bring health and good crops.
Whilst they were keen to be able to curry favour with the underworld, they wanted it to stay where it was. So, they found a young yew tree which they planted by the pool. They did this because the evergreen, deadly poisonous yew tree was known to them as a guardian of the pool. It would allow gifts to be placed into the pool, but it would not allow any of the denizens of the underworld to come back out.
For 2,000 years the yew tree stood by the sacred pool, guarding the people from what resided below the surface.
New people came along.
They carried with them a wooden cross. They gathered the locals around them and told a tale of a man who was killed, passed to the other side, and returned. A man that could defy the power of the yew tree. The new people erected the cross by the yew tree and periodically returned to the spot to preach to the people of this new religion.
After a time, they built a wooden hut - then a stone hut, then a chapel. Every year in the spring the people would cut fronds off the yew tree and carry them into the chapel. They did this to celebrate the resurrection of the only man ever to overcome the yew tree and come back.
Over time a village grew up around the chapel and a larger church was constructed. Until then the villagers had taken their dead to the Mother Church to be buried, but now they applied for and gained burial rights in their own churchyard. They were good folk, but the old superstitions still ran deep in their culture. They worried that witches might raise their bodies after they were buried so that demons and devils might walk the earth.
"Fear not", said one of their elders, “we know the yew tree can prevent all resurrections but one”. Thus reassured, they placed a sprig of yew into each coffin, or sowed some onto the shroud, to protect their souls from evil as they lay waiting for judgement day.
Life carried on. One day the chief bowyer of Henry V came passing by. He had the task of finding thousands of yew staves to make longbows for his King’s army. He looked longingly at the old yew. “How many bow staves could I make from that?”, he thought. But alas for him, Henry himself had decreed that no yew could be taken from ecclesiastical land for the making of bows. He had to look elsewhere.
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Time passed, another bunch of Henry’s men – this time Henry VIII’s – came. They ransacked the church for all its treasures. They tore down all the signs of old superstitions. They marched up to the old yew with an axe. “Go on then – cut it down”. “Not me – I’m not touching the eternal tree of the dead!”
They took away the gold and silver and left the frightening old yew well alone. So, if it has avoided the health and safety fanatics, there the old yew still stands, our constant companion in the history of these islands.
Mark Hinsley, of Mark Hinsley Arboricultural Consultants Ltd, offering tree consultancy services. www.treeadvice.info
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