Country & Town House - Jewellery & Watches 2016

JEWELLERY

&WATCHES AUTUMN/WINTER 2016

GREEN THINKING Why ethical emeralds are extra enticing

Girls in Pearls These days they’re the coolest

PLUS

BROTHERS IN ARMS

The derring-do of the Bremont boys

DIOR in BRITAIN

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©2015 Harry Winston, Inc. Sparkling Cluster by HARRY WINSTON

171 NEW BOND STREET LONDON W1S 4RD 0207 907 8800 FINE JEWELLERY ROOM HARRODS LONDON SW1X 7XL 0207 225 5976 HARRYWINSTON.COM

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LOND ON B OUTIQUE - 15A NEW B OND STREET - TEL. +44 (0)207 499 22 25

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CONTENTS AUTUMN/WINTER 2016

PUBLISHED BY COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE

News & Shopping 28

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GOLD TIDINGS Annabel Davidson brings you the latest luxe jewellery news WATCH THIS SPACE Up-to-date horological happenings, by Simon de Burton A TIMELY INVESTMENT Why buying an Audemars Piguet can reap financial dividends OPAL FRUITS Hardstone jewellery to sink your teeth into LOVE AND MARRIAGE Make a sweeping gesture with these gorgeous engagement rings STONE CODE Jewellery that hides a secret message to the wearer WHAT WOMEN WANT Men’s watches coveted by the fairer sex SLIM PICKINGS The newest women’s watches have delicate proportions

ON THE COVER Styling by Nicole Smallwood. Photography

by Dan Kennedy. Ellen Dane at Next Models wears dress by Dior, Milieu de Siécle ring, earrings and bracelet; Soie Dior Tresse Rubis bracelet and La Mini D de Dior Précieuse watch, all by Dior Joaillerie

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DIOR’S LONDON LOVE AFFAIR With the opening of the House of Dior, Annabel Davidson charts Christian Dior’s long-standing affaire du coeur with the capital THE ICE QUEEN Valérie Messika has changed the way we shop for diamonds, says Francesca Fearon GREEN CREDENTIALS Now you can buy emeralds ethically, says Avril Groom ENGLISH HEROES The Bremont brothers launch their first watch collection for women HOROLOGY À LA MODE Why we can all take fashion watches seriously PORTRAITS & PROVENANCE The jewels painted or photographed on the rich and famous of yesteryear can fetch an extraordinary premium, says Josie Goodbody HIGH CLASS HEIST We spy on this year’s high jewellery collections A CULTURED ICON Vivienne Becker on the enlightening importance of the pearl necklace THE WORLD’S YOUR OYSTER Pearls that are definitely not from your granny’s jewellery box BRILLIANT HUES Avril Groom examines the more elusive coloured diamond THE GLORIES OF FLORENCE Gucci’s choice of Florence Welch as their watch and jewellery ambassador marks an exciting new chapter JEWELLERY BY NUMBERS Figuring out Michelle Ong’s Winter Rose brooch

Regulars 16 20

EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS

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Enduring Elegance, Lasting Legacy

24 Albemarle Street, London, W1S 4HT www.garrard.com

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | EDITOR’S LETTER

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his year’s supplement has a faintly British mood – not just homegrown brands (British watch and jewellery aficionados are far too cosmopolitan for that) but in exploring our close and loving relationships with Europe’s greatest houses. Brexit notwithstanding, this is a two-way process, as Annabel Davidson discovered for our cover story, when she joined Dior’s two-day extravaganza launching their new London store with beautiful jewellery and watches designed solely for it (p55). We also hear how Gucci snaffled British rock icon Florence Welch as its watch and jewellery ambassador, and her close working relationship with designer Alessandro Michele. Good muse?

Our main shoot by photographer Matthew Shave and stylist Ursula Lake betrays a very British sense of humour.

The high jewellers who normally reveal their new designs at the public Biennale des Antiquaires, in Paris, decided this year to show privately to clients instead, so our team became jewel thieves, snatching the best pieces for your eyes only in a daring photographic heist (p78).

Being papped in your jewels as a show of wealth is nothing new, only in the past the portrait painter did the deed. Josie Goodbody follows the fascinating trail of jewels

55 which have appeared in art, from famous portraits of Elizabeth I in pearls to iconic photographs of another Liz – Taylor, in Bulgari. She discovers how such jewels still occasionally come on the market, and how celebrity connections increase their value (p74).

By contrast, French firecracker Valérie Messika is bringing diamonds to a younger generation and gaining British fans like Kate Winslet and Naomie Harris. She tells Francesca Fearon, in Paris, that London is top of her list for her first store abroad, and soon. Prepare to be delighted (p60).

I was privileged to spend time with the genuine English heroes behind Bremont, who are reviving the British watchmaking industry and making their success work for charity (p68). We also look at how fashion brands are smartening up their watch acts, producing models that horologists would be proud of, and are stunningly beautiful too (p71).

Elsewhere, Simon de Burton sniffs out the hottest new watch models and news, and you can shop for a wonderful variety of styles, from the new tiny treasures to the men’s watches that women would most like to pinch.

Add Annabel Davidson’s round up of the latest jewellery news, and shopping for engagement rings, coloured diamonds, unconventional pearls and the hardstone vogue. We hope you will be not only well informed but royally entertained.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Simon de Burton What piece of jewellery do you most covet and why? The ring of the fisherman. It’s truly exclusive – you have to be a pope to get one.

Which watch do you wear and what do you use as an alternative?

I collect watches, but don’t always wear one. The sun serves as a rough guide.

What is your favourite way to spend a weekend? Not leaving the grounds.

Best moment of your career so far? Accepting the fact that I’m unemployable.

Annabel Davidson

www.londonroadjewellery.com Telephone: 0844 8718454

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What piece of jewellery do you most covet and why? Anything

by Suzanne Belperron – the 20th century’s most audacious designer.

Which watch do you wear and what do you use as an alternative?

La Mini D de Dior for evening or, otherwise, my iPhone.

What is your favourite way to spend a weekend? Lazing around with my husband and children.

Best moment of your career so far? The moment that started it all – discovering my grandmother’s charm bracelet aged three.

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THE OAK LEAF BRACELET & RING

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CONTRIBUTORS

Matthew Shave

What piece of jewellery do you most covet and why?

My wedding ring. My wife and I bought the rings in a Gold Souk in Dubai years before we married. They are both identical bands of white gold and very simple in design.

Which watch do you wear and what do you use as an alternative?

My everyday watch is a Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Heritage. It’s quite understated for a chronograph but has a beautiful white flinqué face. I have quite a few watches but my favourite would be my Tag Heuer Monza.

What is your favourite way to spend a weekend? Spending a family weekend at our beach-front getaway at Bracklesham Bay. Best moment of your career so far? Having the elusive Charles Saatchi come to my studio to sit for a portrait and then letting me pour paint down his face. Things like that don’t happen every day.

Francesca Fearon

Personal. Bespoke. Design.

Visit Simon Wright in his Clerkenwell Studio Workshop

www.sw-jewellery.com +44 (0) 20 7490 0665 enquiries@sw-jewellery.com

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What piece of jewellery do you most covet and why?

I love craftsmanship, be it modern or historic jewellery, so raiding Chaumet and Van Cleef & Arpels’s archives would be amazing.

Which watch do you wear and what do you use as an alternative? A Marc

by Marc Jacobs rose gold watch with a beige strap – great with a tan.

What is your favourite way to spend a weekend? Sailing with friends on the south coast or in the Med. Best moment of your career so far? Visiting the legendary Muzo Emerald mine in Colombia, it was the most extraordinary experience and to handle a 2,350 carat rough emerald that had just been found was unforgettable.

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CO U N T RYA N DTOW N H O U S E .CO.U K

Jewellery & Watches EDITOR Avril Groom EDITOR IN CHIEF Lucy Cleland SUB EDITOR Anastasia Bernhardt LUXURY BRANDS DIRECTOR Maya Monro-Somerville SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER Rosalyn Wikeley ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE Olivia Milligan ART DIRECTION & PRODUCTION Parm Bhamra WEBSITE MANAGER Mark Pearson DIGITAL CONSULTANT Lucy Kirkness DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Rebecca Cox CREDIT CONTROLLER Penny Burles

OPERATION AND ACCOUNTS MANAGER Millie Mountain FINANCE DIRECTOR Jill Newey PUBLISHER Julia Carrick MANAGING DIRECTOR Jeremy Isaac CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Simon de Burton, Annabel Davidson, Josie Goodbody EDITORIAL editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ACCOUNTS accounts@countryandtownhouse.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE JEWELLERY & WATCHES is an annual publication distributed with Country & Town House to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000.

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Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox.

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BELLA SICILIA CON CO D’ ORO Gold and ruby cuff

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BELLA SICILIA C ONC O D’ORO Gold and ruby cuff

Cassandra Goad 147 Sloane Street London SW1X 9BZ Tel: 020 7730 2202

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1 South Molton Street, W1 · 41 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 Harrods · Harvey Nichols · Liberty · Selfridges · Saks Fifth Avenue 0800 138 1659 · www.annoushka.com

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | NEWS Boodles Be Boodles diamond, rose gold and platinum ring, £14,950, and pendant, £6,850

BOODLES BE MINE

Launching next month is Boodles’ sweet new Be Boodles collection, a clever use of the B motif created by two single diamonds opposite a diamond-pavé openwork shape, each a mirror image of the other. The pieces were inspired by vintage lace and its delicate use of empty space, and include a lovely diamond pavé line bracelet as well as earrings, a pendant and rings. boodles.com

GOLD TIDINGS

Annabel Davidson rounds up the latest news from the world of jewellery

By George, a Masterpiece!

Jenny Packham for Goldsmiths Gloria Bridal set: earrings, £1,200; ring, £3,500; pendant, £1,200

Stratford-upon-Avon jewellers George Pragnell create a range of special, one-off ‘masterpieces’ each year, utilising the most extraordinary stones George Pragnell in their collection. Be it a 7.01 ct yellow diamond, white 2.49 carat oval natural fancy diamond and platinum pink diamond set in a mesmerising Masterpiece double halo of baguette cut and carre cut ring, POA diamonds, or a five carat diamond set between two trapeze cuts to look like one enormous, elongated hexagon, each masterpiece is something truly unique. pragnell.co.uk

JENNY PACKS A PRETTY PUNCH

Goldsmiths may have over 230 years of history, but that doesn’t stop it from moving with the times. Just launched exclusively with Goldsmiths is the Jenny Packham bridal jewellery range, and it’s as pretty as the British designer’s luxurious wedding dresses. There’s a particularly lovely set consisting of an engagement ring using both white and rose gold, with a very clever contour ring to fit perfectly around it and serve as a wedding band. goldsmiths.co.uk

Ara Vartanian onyx, gold, turquoise and diamond earrings, £13,800

Twice as Nice

I AM LOVELY Athens-based jewellery designer Ileana Makri is known for her fine, fun take on iconic shapes using 18 karat gold and diamonds, but her diffusion line I AM is just as desirable. Two new lines within the range – I AM Stormy Night and I AM Ziggy Stardust – scatter tiny stars, clouds and thunderbolts across slender metal shapes, and fill them in with bright turquoise and coral beads and rainbow-coloured zircons. ileanamakri.com

Brazilian jeweller Ara Vartanian has already made a huge splash in London with his bijoux Mayfair store, but it seems we can’t get enough of this avant-garde designer’s unique aesthetic. Vartanian’s jewellery will also be available at Harvey Nichols’ Knightsbridge store when they open up the revamped accessories department this November, alongside concessions from Lebanese designer Selim Mouzannar and Japanese brand Tasaki. aravartanian.com

Hirsh London diamond and rose, white and yellow gold Advantage bracelets, from £5,000

Ileana Makri gold vermeil and zircon I AM Stormy Night charm bracelet, POA

ANYONE FOR TENNIS? How’s this for practical and pretty? Hirsh’s new Advantage bracelets incorporate either two or 4.75 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds in rose, white or yellow gold into stretchy, clasp free bracelets which can ping on and off the wrist with all the ease of a hair-tie. It’s the tennis bracelet, revamped. hirshlondon.com

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Chatila rose-cut diamond, pink diamond, and pink gold ring, POA

Adler tourmaline, diamond, gold and mother of pearl ‘Shinsei’ earrings, POA

ON THE ROSE The rose-cut may be one of the older diamond cuts, not seen as often in contemporary jewellery, but this extraordinary 7.08 carat rose-cut diamond ring from Chatila goes to show that the cut can be as show-stopping as any modern style. Set in pink gold with a halo of pink diamonds, the softness of the cut is emphasised by its pretty-as-a-picture setting. chatila.com

ADLER’S NEW AGE

They may have had to vacate their Bond Street store due to building redevelopment, but heritage jewellers Adler still have an important presence in London with their focus shifting to private viewings – ideal for their high end, often bespoke product, like these extraordinary Shinsei earrings pitching vivid Paraiba tourmalines against cloud like patterns of pale mother of pearl. adler.ch Asprey 3.13 carat blue diamond, white diamond and white gold ring, POA

Showstopper If it’s all-out glamour you’re after, look no further than Lorraine Schwartz at Harrods.

The New Yorkbased designer is so beloved by Hollywood’s A-list that sometimes it’s a wonder any other jeweller gets a look in. And now, for the first time, Schwartz’s dazzling collections are in the UK with an extensive corner of Harrods’ new Fine Jewellery Room. harrods.com Lorraine Schwartz diamond, emerald, tourmaline and gold earrings, POA

Diane Kordas blue diamond and gold Star Jacket earring, £1,342

IN LIVING COLOUR

Coloured diamonds have been making headlines recently due to the enormous amounts they’re reaching at auction, but sometimes it’s nice to see them actually set in jewellery. Asprey’s collection of these vibrant beauties includes the rarest of the rare in both colour and cut, like this 3.13 carat, internally flawless, fancy vivid blue stone set in a ring of crisp white baguette-cut stones. asprey.com

STARS IN HER EYES

From the ashes London-based jeweller Dalia Daou has cleverly revived her family’s jewellery brand which had clients like Brigitte Bardot and Grace Kelly in its heyday. She launched her new collection ‘Phoenix’ at Stephen Webster’s Rock Vault during London Fashion Week, and these sweeping earrings in 18kt gold with smooth cabochon opals and diamonds are understandably the heroes of the range. daoujewellery.com Daou gold, opal and diamond earrings, £2,950

Diane Kordas white diamond and gold Star Jacket earring, £1,342

Diana Kordas is the go-to jeweller for pieces as refined as they are luxurious – the sort of jewels you can just as easily sleep in as wear to a cocktail party. These gorgeously askew star-motif ear jackets come in vivid blue or bright white diamonds, and have as much impact worn singly as they do in a pair. matchesfashion.com 30 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | Autumn/Winter 2016

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LONDON Tel: +44 (0)20 7290 1536

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HARVEY NICHOLS, LONDON & MANCHESTER - HARRODS, LONDON and your nearest fine jewellery boutique

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | NEWS

WATCH THIS SPACE Simon de Burton rounds up the watch world’s most timely news

Montblanc 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim, £28,200

DOESN’T EAT SHOOTS AND LEAVES

TAG Heuer has dipped into its extensive archives in order to create a new version of the celebrated Carrera driver’s chronograph affectionately dubbed the ‘Panda’ due to its monochrome dial finish. The watch is based on late 1960s models such as the Reference 1153 which are now highly soughtafter by vintage Heuer collectors and can command up to £10,000. You could, however, have a reincarnated Panda on your wrist for just £4,000 in leather strap form, or £4,100 if fitted with a steel bracelet. Two configurations are available – a silver dial with black sub dials or vice-versa. tagheuer.co.uk

Montblanc 4810 Twin Fly Chronograph 110 Years Edition, £5,600

Tag Heuer Carrera Panda Calibre 17 (41mm) with steel bracelet, £4,000

SUMMIT TO LOOK FORWARD TO

Montblanc might be famed for its ‘writing instruments’ (that’s pens and things), but since former Jaeger-LeCoultre boss Jérôme Lambert took over the helm three years ago, its horological offering has soared to new heights. Placing the emphasis on quality, value and genuine watchmaking innovation, Montblanc has launched several interesting ranges of late, including some new models in the diverse 4810 collection which are set to hit stores around now. They range from an automatic chronograph at £3,470 to a ‘twin fly’ model that celebrates the brand’s 110th anniversary and the range-topping ExoTourbillon slim at £28,200. Montblanc will also unveil a special piece at the SalonQP watch show, taking place from 3–5 November at London’s Saatchi Gallery. montblanc.com

SHINE ON When the late Raymond Weil established his eponymous watch company in 1976 during the height of the ‘quartz crisis’, his aim was to provide ‘affordable luxury’.

After launching his first collection on a folding card table from a 16-metre square stall at the Basel watch show, he took the brand global to the point that, by the time of his death in 2014, it was available in 3,500 outlets around the world, had 15 standalone boutiques and an output of 200,000 watches per year.

To mark the 40th anniversary, Raymond Weil has revamped its Shine collection for Raymond Weil Shine women to create a range of 32mm watches collection, between in a yellow gold PVD finish or plain steel and £950 and £2,995 with a variety of dial treatments. Prices range from £950 to £2,995 and all models feature a patented quick-change bracelet system. They are being promoted by television actress Katheryn Winnick, who sagely observes that: ‘For me, time is about moments’. Honestly, Katheryn, it’s like that for all of us. raymond-weil.com

Raymond Weil ambassador Katheryn Winnick

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THE LEGEND AMONG ICONS.

Por tugieser Automatic.

Ref. 5007: The daring voyages of discovery undertaken by Portuguese mariners are the stuff of ancient sagas. The Portugieser Automatic is another, more modern, tale of courage and resolve. The classically elegant design with its railway-track-style chapter ring and appliquĂŠd Arabic numerals references the original Portugieser from the 1930s. And the Pellaton auto-

matic winding with its seven-day power reserve is testimony to IWC’s tradition of progressive technology. We prefer not to indulge in memories of old legends, but simply to carry on writing our own.

IWC. ENGINEERED FOR MEN.

Mechanical movement, Pellaton automatic winding, IWC-manufactured 52010 calibre, 7-day power reserve, Power reserve display, Date display, Sapphire glass, See-through sapphire-glass back, Water-resistant 3 bar, Diameter 42.3 mm

Watch the video about the new Portugieser Collection

London Boutique | 138 New Bond Street | www.iwc.com

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | NEWS

NAUTI AND NICE

Patek Philippe Nautilus with blue sunburst dial and diamond hour markers, limited edition of 700 pieces, £82,310

The long, hot summer of ’76 brought with it one of the most celebrated of all modern watch designs in the form of Patek Philippe’s ‘Nautilus’ – a sports watch created by the late, great Gérald Genta in the shape of a ship’s porthole and named after the famously watertight mollusc. To mark this year’s 40th anniversary of the model, two new, limited-edition ‘Nautili’ have just been launched – and Christie’s is staging a four-centre sale of 40 vintage examples between 19 October and 6 December.

The house will offer ten at each of its auctions in Hong Kong, Dubai, Geneva and New York. patek.com; christies.com Stan Wawrinka wearing his bespoke Royal Oak

In the Pink

HOME ON THE RANGE Range Rover has teamed up with Zenith to create a £6,400, limited-edition chronograph that celebrates the new SV Autobiography Dynamic, the most powerful Range Rover ever. The Zenith El Primero Range Rover features a 42mm case made from lightweight aluminium, finished in a scratch-resistant ceramic coating, while the brushed grey dial of the Graphite Atlas echoes details of the car. Subtle Range Rover logos are applied to the dial and case back, and each of the 1,000 watches being made will be delivered in a case made from the same gloss lacquered wood found on Range Rover interiors and trimmed in perforated leather in the style of the car’s upholstery. zenith-watches.com

Zenith El Primero Range Rover, £6,400

Rafael Nadal pioneered the wearing of expensive watches on tennis courts when he first strode out in a Richard Mille tourbillon – and now Audemars Piguet has followed suit by sending Swiss ace Stan Wawrinka into battle sporting a Royal Oak Offshore chronograph. The world number three beat Novak Djokovic in a four-set thriller to win September’s US Open while wearing his Royal Oak, which was fitted with a custom-made pink rubber strap designed to match his vibrant outfit.

It was the 31-year-old’s third grand slam title. audemarspiguet.com

LET’S HEAR IT FOR THE GIRLS

Jane Trew (associate publisher) and Larissa Trew (publisher)

The evening of 20 October sees the inaugural Eve’s Watch Awards, the UK’s first awards ceremony focused solely on women’s watches. Organised by Larissa Trew, founder of Eve’s Watch (the country’s only magazine dedicated to timepieces for the fairer sex), the ceremony will take place on the 24th floor of London’s Shard building and will play host to retailers, collectors, watchmakers and specialist journalists from around the country. Awards will be made in a dozen categories ranging from ‘best design’ to ‘best complication’ and (of course) ‘woman of the year’, with the all-female judging panel comprising of nine experts including watchmaker Rebecca Struthers and leading watch scribes Tracey Llewellyn, Gaia Geddes, Laura McCreddie – and our very own Avril Groom. The shortlist includes Bulgari’s Serpenti in the best design category; the Tudor Black Bay 36 (best unisex watch); Chanel (brand of the year), with Tag Heuer, Gucci and Michael Kors being among the diverse selection put forward in the ‘buyer’s choice’ category. eveswatch.com

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | NEWS

SEIKO PUTS A GLOSS ON IT

Mention Seiko and many people think only of quartz watches due to its launch in 1969 of the original and celebrated ‘Astron’.

But the Japanese brand has been making excellent mechanical models since 1913 and created its first self-winding wrist watch 60 years ago – to mark which it has just released a 60-strong line of automatics under the name of ‘Presage’. Among them is this limited edition chronograph with a deep black dial finished in Urushi lacquer. Just 1,000 will be available worldwide, yet it’s priced at a sensible £1,950. seiko.co.uk

Seiko Presage, £1,950

JUST LUC AT THAT

That’s a Ferry Fine Watch Many serious horophiles are currently placing their bets on lowvolume, highend independent watchmakers – such as Laurent Ferrier.

The former amateur racing Laurent Ferrier driver has already established Galet Traveller in platinum from William a strong following among & Son, £77,900 connoisseurs for his beautifully finished pieces such as the Galet Traveller, the dial of which depicts an impressive interpretation of a bird’s-eye view of the Earth by night. The 288-part, selfwinding movement provides a second time zone and a date display.

Available in platinum or rose gold, the watches retail at £77,900 and £62,900 respectively. williamandson.com

Chopard LUC XPS 1860 in 18kt rose gold.

Limited series of 250 pieces, £ 15,880

Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele brought the brand coveted ‘manufacture’ status back in 1996 through the foundation of the LUC (for Louis-Ulysse Chopard) atelier in Fleurier, which makes in-house movements and high-end watches.

It opened with a staff of three, but now employs 160. Along the way, it has developed and introduced a swathe of innovative mechanisms, including regulators, tourbillons and the brilliant four-barrel Quattro. LUC’s 20th anniversary is being celebrated in various ways around the world, with London hosting an exhibition from 11–13 October at Phillips, Berkeley Square, which charts the history of the manufacture. A Chopard LUC club will also be launched, along with a range of travel-inspired watches. phillips.com

BLOODHOUND ON THE TRAIL One of the undoubted smash-hit watches of 2016 is the new, £4,150 Rolex Air-King – fans of which include land speed record holder Wing Commander Andy Green, who is preparing to crack 1,000mph on the ground in the Bloodhound SSC supersonic car. The new Air-King bears an uncanny resemblance to the Rolex-supplied chronograph and speedometer fitted to Bloodhound. The analogue instruments were chosen because, while digital technology can dice a second into tiny fractions, the brain prefers to read time from a traditional dial. Green will make his assault on breaking the 1,000mph barrier in 2018. rolex.com

Rolex Air-King, £4,150

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Celebrating 100 years of

D E AR BO EI N G , HAPPY 1 0 0 T H AN N IVER SARY. DO E SN ’ T TIM E FLY. The Boeing 100 mechanical watch, limited to only 300 timepieces, recognises Boeing’s leading position as a defense and commercial aircraft manufacturer. The watch is manufactured from Boeing aviation-grade Ti 6-4 titanium, a special metal that is significantly stronger than commercial titanium. It also features carbon fibre composite from the historically significant and technologically advanced Boeing Dreamliner flying testbed aircraft, ZA004, which can be found integrated into the crown of each timepiece.

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | INVESTMENT

A TIMELY INVESTMENT New or pre-owned, an Audemars Piguet watch can bring significant returns, says Simon de Burton

T

en years ago the celebrated watch guru Marcus Margulies – whose ‘Marcus’ store in New Bond Street is a Mecca to horophiles from around the world – very kindly offered to show me the private collection of watches he keeps ‘below stairs’. His absolute passion for the subject is well known among fellow enthusiasts, and his 60-year career in the business has given him ample opportunity to own some of the greatest timepieces in the world. But the watch wrapped around his wrist on the day of our meeting meant more to him than any other.

It was an Audemars Piguet Extra Flat dating from the 1960s which he had inherited from his father. ‘I adored him,’ said Marcus. ‘He gave me great principles and I owe it to him that I came into this profession, so this watch is probably the most important one I own. It was his one and only “good” watch and I always wear it when I have somewhere special to go.’

Choosing to have an Audemars Piguet as your only ‘good’ watch said something then, and it says even more today. Along with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, ‘AP’ is one of the three greatest historical, blue-chip watch brands in existence – yet the true value and collectability of its vintage pieces is only now starting to be recognised by the world’s serious aficionados.

At the end of last year, for example, a 1937 Audemars Piguet chronograph in a steel case sold for $341,000, five times expectations, when it came under the hammer at Christie’s in New York. It was bought by Margulies for his collection – which, earlier this year, he sold in its 89-watch entirety to Audemars Piguet for an undisclosed sum in order that it can be integrated into its existing museum.

The message behind all this is that buying an Audemars Piguet watch today – either new or ‘pre-owned’ – could very likely represent a shrewd investment. One of the very few high-end Swiss houses to still be in private hands (Jasmine Audemars, the great-

FROM ABOVE: Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, £439,800; Royal Oak 37mm in Pink Gold, £35,400; Royal Oak Offshore Diver, £22,400

granddaughter of co-founder Jules Louis Audemars heads the firm), it makes watches for people who are looking for the less obvious.

Its signature model is the octagonal Royal Oak that, legend has it, was created in 1972 during a single, overnight sketching session by the celebrated watch designer Gérald Genta. During the intervening 44 years, the mighty Oak has been made available in myriad guises, ranging from simple, steel-cased ‘three handers’ based on the look of the original to ‘grand complication’ versions and rugged, extra-large sports models in the Offshore line.

Among various new Royal Oaks launched this year were a range of brightly-hued versions of the Offshore Diver with dials in shades of yellow, tangerine and lime and, at the other end of the spectrum, the Concept Supersonnerie, a made-to-order production piece with a state-of-the-art striking mechanism, a 478-part tourbillon chronograph movement – and a price tag of more than £400,000.

The model we covet most here in the C&TH office, however, is the delectable, three-hand, 37mm self-winding Royal Oak with an 18 carat pink gold case and matching bracelet at £35,400.

It’s as classic as a classic gets – and, as we say, far less ‘obvious’ than some of its better-known rivals. audemarspiguet.com

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IMPORTANT JEWELS AUCTION

•

30 November 2016 • London, King Street

VIEWING

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25–29 November 2016 • 8 King Street • London SW1Y 6QT

CONTACT

•

Keith Penton • kpenton@christies.com • +44 (0) 20 7389 2526

A PAIR OF ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS c. 1920 £15,000–20,000

Auction | Private Sales | christies.com

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | SHOPPING

NIQUESA Venice Bauta amazonite cabochon ring with rubies, sapphires and diamonds set in 18kt yellow gold, £13,500. niquesa.com DIOR Rose des Vents 18kt yellow gold ring with diamond and turquoise, £2,450. dior.com BROOKE GREGSON Eos 18kt gold opal ring, £5,205. net-aporter.com

BULGARI Diva Downton bracelet in pink gold, malachite and mother of pearl, £2,980. bulgari.com

MARCO BICEGO Lunaria Aquamarine necklace set in 18kt yellow gold, £18,220. harveynichols.com

HEATHER BENJAMIN 14kt gold and blue lapis earrings, £375. talisman gallery.co.uk

PIAGET Limelight Sunny Side Of Life lapis lazuli, diamond and white gold cuff bracelet, £145,000. en.piaget.com

OPAL FRUITS Hard stones made to make your mouth water

CHAUMET Jeux de Liens bracelet in pink gold, diamonds and lapis lazuli, £990. chaumet.com

MONICA VINADER Linear stone bracelet in amazonite, £195. monicavinader.com

AMRAPALI Lapis lazuli and diamond bracelet, £2,600. amrapalijewels.com CAROLINA BUCCI Recharmed large 18kt white gold and amazonite hoops, £1,740. carolinabucci. com

VENYX Oseanyx Yemanja Larimar ring in 18kt white gold, diamond and larimar, £6,100. net-a-porter.com

ELIZABETH GAGE Black tourmaline bead necklace, £10,800. elizabeth-gage.com CASSANDRA GOAD Berenice chrysoprase necklace, from £1,215. cassandragoad.com

DAPHNE KRINOS Martha earrings in oxidised silver with carnelians, tourmaline, quartz and diamonds, £1,500. daphnekrinos.com

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Andreea Diaconu by Terry Richardson - messika.com

Move and Move Titanium Collections

Available at Harrods and selected fine jewellers nationwide.

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | SHOPPING

ROBINSON PELHAM Frame ring rubover in 18kt white gold, POA. robinsonpelham.com

ALEX MONROE Rosarium three diamond cluster ring in 18kt yellow gold, £2,400. alexmonroe.com WILLIAM AND SON Platinum pear shape diamond ring, £41,250. williamandson.com

DE BEERS Adonis rose pink gold solitaire ring, from £6,750. debeers.com

DAVID MARSHALL Diamond Phoenix ring, POA. davidmarshall london.com

CHAUMET Joséphine Aigrette impériale ring in platinum, set with diamonds, POA. chaumet.com

LOVE & MARRIAGE Say ‘I do’ with these distinctive dazzlers

JESSICA MCCORMACK Oval Diamond Trio ring, POA. jessicamccormack.com

THEO FENNELL Platinum Forevermark diamond and diamond detail posy solitaire ring, POA. theofennell.com

KIKI MCDONOUGH Morganite cushion cut ring in 18kt white gold and diamonds, £4,700. kiki.co.uk

SUZANNE KALAN 18kt rose gold diamond ring, £4,332. net-a-porter.com

TIFFANY Victoria® diamond band ring set in platinum, £18,700. tiffany.co.uk

HAMILTON AND INCHES Asscher cut diamond and platinum cluster ring, £14,800. hamiltonand inches.com

G BY GLENN SPIRO Diamond and pearl ring, POA. glennspiro.com

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OUTRAGEOUSLY BEAUTIFUL JEWELLERY STRATFORD-UPON-AVON 01789 267 072 WWW.PRAGNELL.CO.UK

BY APPOINTMENT AT: BERKELEY SQUARE, LONDON.

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | SHOPPING VENYX The CVC-Venyx Star Sign Constellation Stone necklaces are a collection of 12 one-of-a-kind pebbles embedded with a variety of precious and semiprecious stones to represent each astrological sign, from £2,640. cvc-stones.com

CARTIER You can choose from nine different stones in the Amulette collection. Lapis lazuli denotes serenity. Yellow gold, lapis and diamond earrings, £4,850. cartier.co.uk ASTLEY CLARKE The Iconography collection allows wearers to choose everything from the disc size, shape and metal type down to the pattern created with coloured diamonds, from £295. astleyclarke.com SHAUN LEANE Uncap the pendant to read the scrolled message inside.

18kt gold and vitreous enamel Messenger Pendant, POA. shaunleane.com THEO FENNELL Open up this locket to reveal a specially commissioned picture of your choice. 18kt white and yellow gold secret garden locket with handenamelled garden scene and green tourmaline set chain, £21,000. theofennell.com

STONE CODE Can you find the hidden message?

TESSA PACKARD LONDON Insert a diamond in a part of the world that means something to you.

Explorer necklace, £4,500. tessapackard.com

JESSIE V E FINE JEWELLERY The Feel The Love diamond braille ring features three rows of diamonds, which spell out a secret eight-character message, £4,000. jessieve.com

SARAH HO Strike lucky with the Numerati collection.

Lucky Number Seven 18kt rose gold and diamond ring, £1,800. shojewellery.com LOQUET Choose your charms accordingly.

14kt locket ring, £1,800.

Charms from £50. loquet london.com RYM JEWELRY Based on geometry and Indian numerology, choose any Diamond Digit pendant to represent the numbers 0–9 to reveal your secret message.

Diamond necklet in 18kt yellow gold, £1,525.

Diamond pendants from £475. rymjewelry.com

AMRAPALI Meaning ‘nine gems’ in Sanskrit, the Navratna earrings feature stones that symbolise a planet that brings the wearer astrological balance, £770. amrapalijewels.com

SOLANGE AZAGURYPARTRIDGE Pick a number from 1–12 to denote a spiritual power e.g. two for yin and yang or seven for eternal good luck.

Magic Number Five 18kt yellow gold and diamond ring, £1,400. solange. co.uk

KIMBERLEY MCDONALD The Constellation Collection, with sapphires and diamonds, is set in 18kt white gold.

Each one is handmade, from around £14,560. kimberlymcdonald.com

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Jewellers for generations www.hamiltonandinches.com

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | SHOPPING RUBBER SOUL Bulova Curv watch with titanium case and rubber bracelet, £699. bulova.com

FACE OF GOLD Boucheron 18kt yellow gold small Reflet watch with golden gadroon and four diamond indexes, £8,500. boucheron.com

FINE TIMES Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, £123,000. bulgari.com

GREY DAYS Hublot Classic Fusion, £6,400. hublot.com

TIME TRAVELLER Patek Philippe Gent’s Aquanaut Travel Time in rose gold with mechanical self-winding movement, £37, 040. pragnell.co.uk

WHAT WOMEN WANT Move over, men, we want your watches

ALL THAT JAZZ Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II, £3,100. hamiltonwatch.com

BIG AND BOLD Richard Mille RM 67-01 in white gold with rubber strap, POA. richardmille.com

RADIO GAGA Panerai Radiomir 1940 Three-Days Automatic Acciaio, £8,000. panerai.com

RETRO MAN de Grisogono Retro W No2 in pink gold, £21,800. degrisogono.com

IN THE WEB Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider skeleton flying tourbillon with black spinels, £129,900. rogerdubuis.com

IN TUDOR TIMES Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze, £2,730. tudorwatch.com

ELEGANTLY SIMPLE A Lange & Söhne Saxonia thin rose gold with silver dial and alligator leather strap, £17,700. alange-soehne.com

TRUE BLUE Nomos Glashütte Metro neomatik midnight blue, £2,480. nomosglashuette.com

I SEE BONES Eterna Skeleton three-hands with black calf braided leather strap, £4,125. eterna.com

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real watches for real people

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Automatic mechanical movement Unidirectional revolving bezel Top ring with black aluminium inlay Water resistant to 10 bar/100 m

www.oris.ch

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | SHOPPING

OH JOSÉPHINE! Chaumet Joséphine Ronde de Nuit watch in white gold set with diamonds, white sea pearl dial and black satin bracelet, 24mm, POA. chaumet.com

FLY ME AWAY Blancpain Ladybird Ultra Slim rose gold, 21.5mm, £13,370. blancpain.com

DIAMOND DIVA Cartier Hypnose 18kt pink gold case watch set with brilliant cut diamonds, 26.2mm, £20,700. cartier.co.uk

SNAP ME UP Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle in 18kt pink gold, bezel set with 64 diamonds and alligator strap, 30mm, £13,750. vacheronconstantin.com

GREEN WITH ENVY Harry Winston Emerald timepiece in rose gold with diamonds, 17.75mm, POA. harrywinston.com

WHAT A PANSY Charles Oudin Pansy Retro, 18mm, £13,900. williamandson.com

SLIM PICKINGS Deliciously delicate timepieces

BUCCELLATI Venus watch, 15.5mm, POA. buccellati.com

ROSY POSY Halcyon Days Salamander cream and rose gold watch, 17.6mm, £175. halcyondays.co.uk

PEARLY QUEEN Rolex Lady Datejust 28 in Rolesor, white mother of pearl diamond dial and diamond set bezel, 28mm, £11,250. rolex.com

PROMISES, PROMISES Baume et Mercier Petite Promesse with 22 diamonds, 22mm, £2,000. baume-et-mercier.com

BLUE HANDS Bulgari Piccola Lucea white gold and diamond watch, 23mm, £30,700. bulgari.com

IN REVERSE Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One High Jewellery, 18mm, £203,000. jaegerlecoultre.com

SPORT A SMILE Chopard Happy Sports 18kt rose gold automatic watch featuring five mobile diamonds, 30mm, £20,020. chopard.co.uk

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WWW.THEOFENNELL.COM

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DIOR IN LONDON | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

Dior’s London Love Affair When Dior opened its redesigned London flagship this year, a glamorous history repeated itself.

ANNABEL DAVIDSON went along

Soie Dior Tresse Rubis ring in pink gold, yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, purple sapphires and pink sapphires; Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé Soleil watch in blue; Milieu du Siècle earrings in pink gold, diamonds and rubies, all by Dior Joaillerie. Dress by Dior Photography by Dan Kennedy Styling by Nicole Smallwood

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building (buildings, actually, as the new boutique is stretched across two of them) designed by luxury’s go-to architect Peter Marino.

Inside, these immaculately turned-out women, their walkers, the fashion press and expensively-suited business types attempted to take it all in. Spinning around with their smart phones, gorgeous young things flown in from all over the world, in pastel-coloured Dior couture, were taking selfies and Snapchatting faster than most of us could come up with an appropriate hashtag. (Do an Instagram search for #diorcruise and you’ll get my drift.) And who could blame them for the speed with which they documented their whereabouts given the sheer scale of the new store, with spaces for watches and jewellery, Baby Dior, Dior Maison, Dior Homme (complete with a dedicated demi-mesure area), luxurious VIP rooms and a shoe gallery?

© ABACA PRESS

I

n early summer this year, when Christian Dior threw open the doors to its new London boutique, watching the VIP guests arrive was like getting a live preview of what was actually in store. Teetering on high heels (new season Dior, of course) the luxury house’s most important clients from around the world disembarked, one by one, from a never-ending conveyor belt of sleek black cars. There were the doll-like Chinese clients with perfectly porcelain complexions, the Russian women with their high cheekbones and runway-ready looks, the French set all reed-thin and knowingly elegant – and all clad head to toe in tribute to their host.

And no matter that it was absolutely bucketing down; it seems even London rain can’t touch those born gumming the proverbial silver spoon. Into Dior’s new retail temple they went, a vast, four-storey

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DIOR IN LONDON | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

© ABACA PRESS

LEFT: Dior’s starry guests and clients were treated to a catwalk show at Blenheim Palace RIGHT: Princess Margaret and Christian Dior at the 1954 Blenheim Palace fashion show in aid of the British Red Cross

If you think all this sounds like too much for one boutique, think again. There’s no cramming or stacking of wares going on chez Dior – there’s no need given the enormous (and undisclosed) square footage of the space. So enormous, in fact, that even the huge sweeping staircase, countless marshmallow-soft sofas and especially commissioned sculptures and artworks couldn’t crowd it. If anything, in addition to being a Dior temple, the boutique is a gallery of sorts for contemporary art. There’s a colossal stainless steel sculpture entitled Distant Cousin by the Turner Prize-winning British artist Tony Cragg, intimidating anyone wanting to climb the sweeping staircase, and an entire wall dedicated to Beth Katleman’s 3D ceramic ‘wallpaper’, commissioned especially for the space. But still, on the whole, the interior is elegantly uncluttered, in those shades immortalised in one of Monsieur Dior’s most-repeated quotes; ‘The tones of grey, pale turquoise and pink will prevail’.

And prevail they did, with walls dressed in every shade of grey, from burnished silver to the softest dove grey, glass bowls of fat peonies in pinks so pale they seemed to actually blush, and turquoise in the form of the limited-edition collaboration with British artist Marc Quinn, whose hypnotic oil paintings, including a bright blue iris, were transposed onto Lady Dior bags and small leather accessories.

But another trio of colours was in evidence too – red, white and blue – and not in tribute to the French flag. In the large watch and jewellery galleries on the ground floor, limited-edition versions of certain womens’ watches and fine jewellery items have been reimagined in the colours of the Union Jack, only available in London. But because this is Dior – and because the creative mind behind some of the watches and fine jewellery at the house is Victoire de Castellane – ‘red, white and blue’ does not automatically translate to diamond pieces rendered in primary colours – de Castellane would never do anything that obvious.

Instead, in her tribute to Dior’s beloved Britain, the colours are infused into existing designs without resorting to being monochromatic. When interviewed in Paris about her latest, very French high jewellery collection Dior à Versailles, de Castellane also admitted to being inspired by British jewellery. ‘I’ve always adored Victorian and Georgian jewellery styles,’ she says.

But her approach to colour is anything but Victorian.

Take the Milieu du Siècle earrings in rose gold; rather than just adding rubies, colour is imbued via sapphires of soft pink and fuschia, tempering the blood red of the rubies and prettily contrasting with white diamonds. In the blue bracelet version of the same set, sapphires of graduating colour are interspersed with white diamonds in frothy loops and swirls on a delicate sapphire tennis-bracelet to create a vision more like a cloud-strewn summer sky than the royal blue sections of the Union Jack.

While not quite the acid brights favoured by the designer in some of her recent collections, that modern streak of colour is still in evidence.

The original designs for these pieces were from the 2014 high jewellery collection Archi Dior, which took some of Christian Dior’s most iconic couture shapes as inspiration, from the undulating petal-like drapery of the Junon dress from his 1949 Autumn/ Winter Couture collection (reinterpreted in the aforementioned Milieu du Siècle earrings) to the cinched waist of the now iconic New Look Bar jacket of 1947. The latter also appears in this special Bond Street collection as the Bar en Corolle ring, that cinched waist shaded with baby blue sapphires amongst diamonds or scarlet rubies.

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | DIOR IN LONDON

In the Cygne rings and earrings, unfurling diamond ribbons encase central stones but, in this case, those stones are soft purple spinels and sapphires or dark rubies peeping out from diamond fronds. On the horological side of things, the classic, feminine La D de Dior Précieuse watch is rejigged with a bezel in either rubies or sapphires, and otherwise completely covered in white diamonds, while the Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé Soleil special editions sport shiny red or blue alligator straps and matching lacquer dials.

But even a store opening of this scale doesn’t justify the arrival in London of so many Dior clients and superstar friends. It just happened to coincide perfectly with the showing of the Resort 2017 collection that very same afternoon. The night before, some of Dior’s starriest friends – Kate Beckinsale, Emma Roberts, Kiernan Shipka, Ruth Wilson and Kate Mara to name a few – indulged in the brand’s hospitality at The Lady Dior, a totally Dior-ified version of the Audley pub in Mayfair, where guests were served champagne and cheese toasties.

The following day they set off for an immersive day with Dior.

Straight from touring the new flagship, this beautiful set was whisked over lunch on the Dior Express (yes, the maison took over a train complete with Dior-clad staff) from Victoria to Charlbury, where guests were taken by chauffeur-driven cars to Blenheim Palace, the Duke of

Marlborough’s colossal 18th-century Oxfordshire residence. There they were treated to the spectacle of the catwalk show in the stately home’s vast library.

Next came a very English tea, with delicate cakes and cucumber sandwiches. Then the guests were spirited back to London by car ready to party the night away as Dior took over Loulou’s at 5 Hertford Street, one of the city’s chicest nightspots.

Though more extravagant, this is not the first time that Dior has shown in Britain. Twice before it has had shows at Blenheim, in 1954 and again in 1958 – neither of which were token gestures for the House of Dior to ingratiate itself with the British, for Christian Dior already had a long-standing love affair with Great Britain.

The first Dior boutique in London may not have opened until 1961, four years after the great couturier’s death, but his enchantment with England had begun in 1926 when he first visited the country at the age of 21. He would later claim in his memoirs that ‘there is no other country in the world, besides my own, whose way of life I like so much’. He went on to say, ‘I love English traditions, English politeness, English architecture.

I even love English cooking.’

This may not sound like the typical Parisian couturier’s response to Blighty. We’re too used to French jibes about our food and sense of style to expect a glowing report. But Christian Dior had a relationship with Great Britain that surpassed any patriotically entrenched snobbery. He had his suits made on Savile Row, was close friends with society photographer Cecil Beaton and counted Princess Margaret, upper-class novelist Nancy Mitford, prima ballerina Margot Fonteyn and British Ambassadress Lady Diana Cooper as clients.

In fact, it was Princess Margaret who was the guest of honour at the first Dior show held at Blenheim Palace. Dior had met the Princess seven years earlier, when the French Ambassador’s wife, Madame Massigli, had hosted a presentation of Dior’s entire collection at the French Embassy, attended by the Queen and the young Princess. The 1954 Blenheim Palace show was organised by the Duchess of Marlborough to raise money for the Red Cross, and was repeated in 1958, one year after Monsieur Dior’s untimely death, with a precociously talented young designer at the helm – a 22-year- old Yves Saint Laurent.

Evidently, the House of Dior’s special relationship with Britain didn’t die with the late couturier – it only grew stronger. The British aristocracy continued to be among Dior’s most valued clients, including Diana, Princess of Wales, while one of the maison’s most famous creative directors of all time was the British-born John Galliano.

Kate Moss and Stella Tennant have been star models for the brand, while Brit Jude Law is the face of the current Dior Homme fragrance campaign. And now, with Dior’s latest London flagship estimated to be their biggest store yet, and the colours of the Union Jack immortalised in rubies and sapphires across a limited-edition range of watches and fine jewellery, it seems that Dior’s love affair with the country is far from fading. If anything, it only continues to blossom. n

The House of Dior, 160–162 New Bond Street W1; dior.com

© CECIL BEATON CAMERA PRESS GAMMA RAPHO

Princess Margaret photographed

by Cecil Beaton wearing a white embroidered Dior dress on her 21st birthday, 1951

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Ice Queen FRANCESCA FEARON meets Valérie Messika, whose ice-cool diamonds and celebrity fans are rocking the jewellery world

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alérie Messika fizzes with energy. Around her on the floor of her Paris studio is a selection of postersize photographs for her new campaign. She and her cousin and co-designer Didier Cherqui are canvassing everyone for their opinion.

‘What do you think of when you look at that photo?’ she asks, pointing to the fresh-faced model whose fingers, covered in Messika diamond rings, are drawn to her laughing face.

‘Or that?’ she adds, singling out one that shows a more reflective pose with the model looking over her shoulder, her ears sparkling with more

of these precious gems. ‘What sort of moods do they inspire? What sort of woman do they appeal to?’ The questions come thick and fast. Each image is subtly aimed at the different ages and emotions of her audience, for the Messika woman may acquire her first diamonds on her 18th birthday, or be building up a collection from her twenties onwards.

‘Messika is about working with diamonds but in a cooler way,’ she says. Kristen Stewart illustrated this at the Cannes Film Festival, dressed in a white Chanel mini dress with Messika’s Calypso diamond ear cuff

PHOTOS: REX FEATURES

ABOVE: Valérie Messika BELOW: Théa toi et moi ring; Kristen Stewart wears the Messika Calypso diamond ear cuff at Cannes

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

FROM TOP: Héra necklace; Manchette looped over one ear. Her Amazone Skinny bracelet; the flagship store appearance in the Celestial on Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris; Valérie and her father Andre Messika; the ‘game-changing’ high jewellery collection Skinny bracelet clearly delighted Valérie.

‘She looked so young and edgy wearing it,’ she says. ‘We created a high jewellery piece that a 25-year-old can wear and look rock ’n’ roll, not old-fashioned.’

Beyoncé, Rihanna and Charlize Theron are all devotees and British fans such as Kate Winslet, Naomie Harris and Jourdan Dunn will boost that list when she opens her proposed London flagship in the next year.

Valérie has a vision for Messika; she has an instinct for imagery and knows how to use social media to target the millennial generation, who don’t keep jewellery purchases for special occasions, but see them as essentials that can be enjoyed at any time and worn every day. Launching her business 11 years ago, she has helped pioneer an unmistakable shift in the attitude and way in which we purchase jewellery.

She is creating a new language for diamond jewellery, one that’s infused with an innovative and youthful spirit, inspired by fashion, architecture, her favourite sculptor Alexander Calder, and the urban beat. Her tastes are minimalist, the designs sleek, ergonomic and sexy: ‘I love symmetrical, simple things, but they are not always the easiest to execute.’ Construction is key; designs are light and soft, such as her Skinny bracelet, which is weightless, supremely flexible and a game-changer in the business. ‘We spend hours on the construction to make the gold disappear, so that you just see the diamonds like a tattoo on a woman’s skin.’

Valérie’s world has been immersed in diamonds since she was a baby. Her father Andre Messika is a renowned diamantaire and, from a young age, she learnt how to look into a diamond and see the light, brilliance and fire of these precious gems. One of her earliest designs, Move (a simple bangle with three diamonds sliding on rails within an oval window set in the bracelet), was inspired by her childhood memories of playing with diamonds and the playfulness and joy that gave her, a feeling that continues to run through the brand’s collections today.

She inherited her passion for diamonds from her father, learning everything that she knows about these stones and the gem business from him, but she knew her destiny was not as a diamantaire. ‘I told him I would never be as good as him, but that I thought there was something else that I could do with diamonds.’

Valérie shares her father’s entrepreneurial instinct and smelled change in the air. ‘There was this sacred aura around diamonds, but I had a different point of view.

I saw women spending €1,000 to €2,000 on handbags and thought I could produce fine jewellery that women can buy for

themselves at that price.’

Her father supported her plan, but set her two stipulations: to not copy anyone else, because it would be very delicate for him if his daughter were to copy one of his big jewellery house clients, and only to ever use diamonds, sometimes with coloured ones for variety.

He is her mentor and the pair are very close, but he acknowledges that he knows more about the fast-paced gem-dealing world than the slower rhythm of the jewellery business.

In 11 years she has established a very modern fine jewellery house that now employs nearly 100 people, including her husband, Jean-Baptiste Sassine, who runs the commercial side: ‘Thanks to him I can dedicate myself to the creativity and brand image,’ she says. This role she shares with her cousin Didier Cherqui, while her brother, Ilan, is a diamond dealer. ‘It’s like ping-pong with Didier; a creative conversation.

We both have ideas that we react to but if we haven’t reached an agreement then we haven’t finished the job,’ she says. ‘It gives us more confidence in our decisions.’

Move, created in 2007, has been one of her greatest successes – a jewel from this collection is sold every 30 minutes at one of her 250 stockists around the world, including Harrods and Selfridges. Recently she introduced a man’s version of the bracelet in matte black titanium set with black or white diamonds. ‘It is not easy to do something masculine with diamonds, but Move is one of our most iconic designs.’ Théa – worn by Zoë Kravitz at the Metropolitan Museum Gala Ball – is a new range set with triangular shaped diamonds, and has become another hit.

Bursting with new ideas, in 2012, just before she opened her Rue Saint-Honoré flagship in Paris, Valérie introduced a high jewellery collection with 50 exclusive pieces, including the graceful Silk necklace (‘like a throw of diamonds’), that were the purest expression of the brand.

She was nervous about how people would react to the higher prices, ‘but we had an amazing response.

I was quite sceptical at first but now I am very happy.

Perhaps,’ she muses, ‘the Messika woman is getting older with me.’ n

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Single emeralds from the Muzo mine

Green Credentials ©CARTIER

Emeralds are a modern obsession with a history of controversy. Now producers are making efforts to be ethical, reports AVRIL GROOM

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EMERALDS | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

Assessing rough stones at the Muzo mine

©CARTIER

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f you were born in May you are lucky.

Emerald is your birthstone and right now it’s the colour everyone wants in their jewellery, although – and perhaps because – it’s historically the rarest of the classic coloured precious gems. So many are being used that jewellers must think it’s May all year. Green with envy no longer means you are lusting after your best friend’s It bag – it’s the emerald in her ring that you really want. Recent events have piled on the focus – for the first time, Van Cleef and Arpels has devoted a high jewellery collection entirely to one stone – emeralds, of course. And a big news story announced itself to every visitor arriving at the Basel jewellery fair by plane – an advertisement for the re-opened Muzo mine in Colombia, which filled one whole wall of the arrivals hall.

The rate at which top jewellers have been bringing their creative imaginations to bear on emeralds both feeds and fulfils this demand. Pieces featuring them are highlights in a number of the most recent haute joaillerie collections and depend far more on design flair than on vast stones bought as investments. Piaget’s necklace of textured yellow gold leaves and big, irregularly-sized rectangular emeralds, Giampiero Bodino’s cuff in a modern Art Deco mosaic with onyx and diamonds, de Grisogono’s extraordinary collar of largesize emerald pavé and quivering emerald and diamond briolettes, Boucheron’s Art Deco and couture-inspired bows and ribbons cascading in emeralds, diamonds and onyx, the

astonishing emerald beads which make up, with diamonds, Nirav Modi’s regal Maharani necklace, and Van Cleef and Arpels’ exquisite long-drop earrings in the best emerald beads with diamonds, pearls and onyx tipped with rubies – a modest yet very wearable example from their collection – are prime highlights that fuel the desires of jewellery aficionados.

Yet that luscious green comes tinged with controversy, of the political and social sort that long dogged diamonds, and which the new Muzo regime is aimed at helping to dispel.

Emeralds’ long and ancient history has been fraught, like that of most rare gems. They occur only in certain specific places, where they were first discovered and worn. They were mined in ancient Egypt, where Cleopatra loved them and had them carved with her image.

They were also mined and worn by the Amerindians of Colombia and were, along with gold, a profitable reason for the invading Spaniards to annihilate the tribes whose lands included the mines – the Muzo, who gave their name to the mine, were the fiercest and resisted longest. India had emeralds too, from Afghanistan, but of a lighter colour and when the trade routes brought Colombian emeralds to India via Spain, the Mughal rulers developed a passion for their richer colour – green is a symbolic shade in Islam. Centuries later, when immensely rich maharajas began to patronise great European jewellery houses like Cartier and Boucheron in the early 20th century, FROM ABOVE: their own emeraldVan Cleef & Arpels Espérance earrings; studded jewels Piaget necklace tourmalines, influenced western aquamarines, diamonds and emeralds; Giampiero Bodino design and Mosaico bracelet; de Grisogono emeralds were High Jewellery necklace; Cartier shop window displaying one of the most necklace set with favoured stones 141.13ct of Art Deco style. emerald Thus Colombian emeralds came to be considered as the best, even though other sources, such as Brazil and Africa, came on stream. More recently political unrest, security issues and the prevalence of the drugs Autumn/Winter 2016 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 63

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trade in Colombia made it a corrupt and dangerous place to do business and it was slowly starved of investment, so mines could not modernise and production dwindled. The industry changed forever in 2008 when Gemfields, a London-based consortium, bought the Kagem mine in Zambia and brought in high-tech and socially responsible mining methods. Despite launching in an economic crash, success has been fast. The mine now produces around 20 per cent of the world’s emeralds, which are used by many top jewellers.

Gemfields has also bought revived Russian jewellery brand Fabergé and is now working the same magic for Mozambican rubies.

As clients become more interested in provenance and the ethics of production, Gemfields’ emphasis on transparency and traceability are big selling points. Colombia desperately needed to catch up and the Muzo project, with $250m investment from an American group, is the first stage, bringing in the latest, highly efficient equipment (though the delicate work of extracting the crystals from narrow veins is still done by hand) and setting up social projects in the impoverished surrounding villages. Other mines, such as Chivor, produce sporadically but, until Muzo returned to production last year, obtaining Colombian emeralds at source was still a hazardous business. When the BBC made a TV FROM ABOVE: Gemfields emeralds programme two years ago about the for Chopard’s Green Carpet Collection; creation of a special emerald necklace Boucheron Ruban Graphique necklace;

by British jeweller Boodles, which landscape surrounding the Muzo mine; Amrapali 18kt gold, emerald, pearl required seven perfectly matched, and diamond earrings; Boodles cushion-shaped stones, the difficulties Greenfire necklace, which featured in a BBC documentary and dangers for their gem dealer in finding them made riveting viewing.

Before the reinvestment Muzo was partly owned by a Colombian, Victor Carranza, who worked closely with the Colombian government but whose methods were hardly transparent.

The new group bought his share before he died and closed down sales for two years, to introduce modern methods and to ensure that stones now coming to market would be ‘clean’. It is, says Jason Woods, head of sales and marketing, ‘not just about supply and demand but about the responsibility factor. We want

consumers to feel comfortable with buying a Colombian emerald, to be sure it is above board’. In addition, production is increasing. Like any mine, Muzo produces many lesser-quality stones as well as the rare stars, but these have important uses, as pavé or as milky, paler feature stones with a charm of their own.

Yet controversy – of a different kind – persists. Some observers believe that Colombian emeralds are ‘superior’ to those found in Zambia or Brazil, and the best of which are referred to as ‘old mine’ stones – those from Muzo and other mines before any changes – carry a premium, perhaps because of the romance and whiff of danger attached to them.

Emeralds are complicated stones geologically – all are a form of beryl with the same chemical constituents but Colombian emeralds were formed under pressure in sedimentary strata, all others with heat in metamorphic rocks. The best Colombian stones have extraordinary colour saturation and some have a slightly yellow tinge, while Zambian emeralds tend to the blue – as do Chivor stones; it all depends on the exact proportions of trace elements.

For consumers, the most soughtafter stones have traditionally been Colombian.

The fact that the extraordinary 17thcentury emerald, gold and enamel watch unearthed in the Cheapside Hoard in London has been identified as a Muzo one gives it added lustre.

As Sameer Lilani, UK director of Amrapali, which uses beautiful emeralds from a number of sources, says, ‘It’s great to have ethical Colombian stones – people really care about this, and Gemfields’ ethical stance has helped make Zambian stones successful. But old mine Colombian stones still emanate a magic that makes them the top for investment.’

Interestingly Van Cleef and Arpels’ CEO Nicolas Bos, who instigated the

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wonderful Émeraude en Majesté high jewellery collection, takes a slight different stance. ‘We have long wanted to do a mono-gem collection and emeralds offer the greatest diversity within one colour,’ he says. ‘We found an infinity of beautiful green stones and it has been five years in the planning. It’s coincidence that we launched this collection just when emeralds are so prominent.’

In cut, he says, there is also great choice – ‘apart from the traditional “emerald cut” there are pearshapes, smooth cabochons and sugarloaves, old cuts no longer used and, even, antique carved stones’. As for colour, the wide range reflects their far-flung origins.

‘Colombian emeralds are often seen as the richest and most typical,’ he says, ‘but many others are as beautiful in their own way. We have wonderful stones from Zambia, extraordinarily attractive, paler green gems from historic Panjshir in Afghanistan, which are still being mined despite all the difficulties there, and emeralds from Russia so pale they are almost like aquamarines but very lively.’ Some stones were already in the house archive and new ones have been matched to them – the design and collection process has lasted several years.

‘I know some people believe a Colombian old mine stone is the only emerald worth having, but it’s more important to choose the right stone for the design you are creating,’ says Bos. ‘Maybe that calls for a paler stone – for us it should be the best example of the type the designers have chosen, and we should know exactly the history and source of the gem.’

Putting this idea into practice, the collection is so aesthetically dazzling, both in design and gem character, that FROM ABOVE: Nirav Modi Maharani the source of the stones necklace in white gold with emerald and becomes a non-issue diamonds; Pippa Small and Saeeda Etebari the minute you look for Turquoise Mountain 18kt yellow gold and emerald necklace on display at at them. A cuff The Smithsonian; Vanleles Legends of with 14 perfectly Africa 18kt white gold, diamond, Zambian emerald and Gemfields sourced emerald matched, graduated ring; Georg Jensen and Gemfields rectangular stones Grosvenor pendant; Chanel Épi Vendôme ring of extraordinary richness proves to contain Zambian emeralds; a ring with a single, huge oval emerald of an amazing pale seablue tinge (and a lot of diamonds) is Colombian. Ultimately it doesn’t matter where they come from – it is their unsurpassed beauty that makes you catch your breath. This has created a mindset where it is not just the traditional grand houses who make great use of emeralds, or use them only as large feature stones.

Fabergé’s access to Gemfields emeralds means they sprinkle them with abandon on watch dials – the Lady Libertine, for instance, mixes pavé emeralds with malachite and a green crocodile strap for a

truly verdant timepiece. The pale Panjshir stones are used by independent ethical jewellery designer Pippa Small, who works with the Turquoise Mountain charity in Afghanistan to encourage women to learn jewel craft – her most spectacular piece so far is a necklace on exhibition at Washington’s Smithsonian Institute, which was made by a blind Afghani craftswoman.

Gemfields’ ethical credentials are significant in attracting certain brands to work with them.

At the very top, Caroline Scheufele at Chopard was already breaking new ground in using South American fairmined gold, and now she has collaborated with Gemfields, who supply beautiful emeralds to set in it. Danish brand Georg Jensen, best known for its modern and minimalist silver, has broadened its range to include gold and diamonds in recent years, but has now also added Gemfields emeralds for very striking and simple necklace designs. Guinea-Bissauborn jeweller Vania VanLeles uses only ethical African stones and was thrilled to work with Gemfields on an emerald and diamond suite.

Understandably, the team behind Muzo hope their commitment to more ethical production will reap similar rewards and that their stones will be chosen for their credentials as well as their rich, vivid colour. Large Muzo stones already glow on a ring and necklace in Chanel’s latest high jewellery collection but less exalted brands are also using them in smaller, less rarefied form.

‘Top quality and traceable Colombian stones arriving when there is such an emphasis on emeralds will undoubtedly elevate the market,’ says Woods. ‘But having more stones available at all levels is even better news. For the first time these wonderful, desirable gems are becoming democratic, available to many more people.’ n

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Giles and Nick English in their Audley Street store

English Heroes

The brothers behind Bremont may have a Boy’s Own background but, they tell AVRIL GROOM, it’s time to start pleasing women

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ou couldn’t make it up. A pair of dashing British brothers give up successful careers and spare time derring-do flying, riding and occasionally crashing planes, boats and motorbikes, to chase the mad dream of founding a luxury company creating watches almost entirely in the UK. Even their name is English. Almost 20 years later, Bremont is a successful independent brand with a global profile and the accolade of being the official timekeeper for the America’s Cup. Now, founders Giles and Nick English, who remain as down-to-earth, self-deprecating and – well – English as ever, have decided it is time to entice the half of the population that their military and aviation-inspired watches ignore – women. Not that this stopped female fans – I know several, and I sometimes pinch my husband’s Bremont when he opts for his smartwatch. But now we have the Solo-32, a very neat object for women who want a proper watch that doesn’t cost as much as a car but is good enough to become an heirloom. ‘Feedback from 140 stockists in the UK and US forcefully requested a women’s model,’ says Nick. ‘The women’s market is massive but there still aren’t that many good mechanical movements for women – it took a long time to find one that would give us the size we wanted – 32mm – and

Bremont AC I 32 Ladies Chronometer on a blue alligator strap, £2,795 (bremont.com)

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INTERVIEW | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

The project had a slow take-off. ‘We began serious work go through the same tests and chronometer in 1998, launched in 2002 and hardly sold a watch till certification as our men’s models.’

2007,’ says Giles. They were helped by John Ayton, who ‘If we were going to do a women’s watch had sold Links of London with his wife Annoushka it had to be, and look like, a Bremont,’ adds Ducas. Meanwhile, to test their watches to the limit, they Giles. The result is sporty yet elegant enough approached ejector seat makers Martin-Baker. The for dinner and tough enough to withstand resulting model – one version is available only to pilots sky-diving – in short a great all-rounder who have ejected – was the turning point, starting and a good partner to the sports/dress a flood of links with military organisations which crossover watches that are driving men’s appreciate the vintage aviation styling. Usually there design. Different versions have initials is a purpose – with Boeing, it was researching materials alluding to famous aviatrixes. Some have for use in watches; Jaguar started with dashboard clocks the distinctive figures that grace the men’s for a concept model. The America’s Cup link came after models, others have elegant Roman numerals the last race’s winning team was skippered by Sir Ben Ainslie. mixed with indexes.

‘It’s appropriate because the first Cup race, in 1851, was timed ‘The market has changed a lot in the past Bremont Solo-32by a British marine chronometer,’ says Nick. five years,’ says Nick. ‘We find many women are LC on a red ‘We are passionate about our watches being made as far now interested in what makes a watch tick.’ We are alligator strap, as possible in Britain,’ he says, ‘and the more we can do talking in their plush, clubby London store, a stone’s £2,695 (bremont. com) that, the more watchmakers we can train for the future.’ throw from hedge fund heaven in Mayfair. It has an They have a state-of-the-art assembly plant in Henley and old wooden propeller, a bar, books and comfy sofas, research and casemaking at Silverstone, where they a place to ‘experience’ Bremont as well as to buy. So far, work with motor-racing engineers. so light-hearted and yet the whole project is founded The next time I see them they are in their on tragedy – the 1995 crash at a vintage airshow that killed element, launching their latest limited-edition their father, an aeronautical engineer, pilot and restorer watch with a convivial, slightly crazy evening at of things mechanical, and shattered Nick’s body. the Shuttleworth Collection of vintage aircraft ‘Once Nick had recovered we decided to do in Bedfordshire. This is the newest in a something we really wanted to in our father’s memory series of specials that are commemorative, – that was to start our own watch company and revive raise money for charity and contain tiny the industry in Britain,’ says Giles. To do so they had elements of a restored historic object, more crashes, metaphorically – into impenetrable including HMS Victory, the wing fabric from Swiss walls when they set up a small workshop in the the Wright brothers’ plane and a code-breaking home of modern watchmaking and found it hard to get machine from Bletchley Park. They are already help. ‘We had to use Swiss components and movements, collectors’ pieces and the latest – commemorating a even though we eventually planned to make many of our famous 1934 air race from London to Australia, with own,’ says Nick. ‘Building trust on both sides took a long pre-restoration parts from the winning plane, which time. But we are very grateful to the Swiss industry – we Bremont Solo-32AJ Black on now lives at the museum and flew on the night – will be couldn’t have done it without them.’ A real near-crash resulted a cream lizard no exception. So what next? They say they rule nothing in the brand name. A forced landing in a French field led them strap, £2,695 (bremont.com) out, not even – whisper it – women’s watches to the owner, a farmer who proved also to be a pilot and watch with diamonds. We can’t wait. restorer, very like their father. His name? Antoine Bremont.

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FASHION WATCHES | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Fendi Policromia; jeweller Delfina Delettrez designed the Fendi Policromia, her first ever watch; Chanel Première flying tourbillon openwork

Horology à la Mode

Fashion watches, cheap and cheerful? Think again says AVRIL GROOM, who tells us why they are now worth taking seriously

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he term ‘fashion watch’ used to be a pair of dirty words to the luxury watch industry.

It called to mind, at best, inexpensive quartz models sold by mid-range fashion brands as a profitable add-on to their clothes ranges, and at worst, cheap, unbranded watches designed to reflect a season’s trends and destined to last not much longer. When luxury fashion brands did offer watches they were made under licence by mass manufacturers and bore little relation to the brands’ clothing designs. Seriously top end brands – the sort who produce haute couture, like Chanel or Dior – and proper watch manufacturers, steered well clear of the whole business.

How all that has changed. I thought about this while listening to Delfina Delettrez explaining the work that goes into Fendi’s Policromia, her first-ever watch design and a model that raises its watches to an entirely new level. It is one of 2016’s most original and striking designs, a piece of jewellery – as she says – with concentric circles and arcs, layering plates of precious hardstone, steel and gold, some with pavé or tiny studs but all drawing inwards to the small centre dial. Delettrez is one of the coolest jewellery designers on the planet and that is what makes her so special for Fendi – she approaches design with a very different eye from a watch designer. This also applies to in-house design teams at luxury fashion brands and helps Autumn/Winter 2016 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 71

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Dior Grand Soir Kaleidiorscope No 1; Apple Watch Hermès with double tour strap; Louis Vuitton Blossom Tambour Spin Time; Ralph Lauren RL888 in steel; Gucci Le Marché des Merveilles with embroidered golden bee

interpreted the four-way symmetry they saw to be worked in precious jewels, carefully matched to the originals and angled to catch the light. They have made just eight one-off pieces with an incredible variety of colours and stones, each equally breathtaking.

Probably none of this would have happened without the decision of Chanel, in 1987, to introduce high-end watches. The Première referenced house codes – it is shaped like both the Place Vendôme in Paris and the Chanel scent bottlestopper, and has a leather and chain ‘handbag’ strap. Real change came in 2000 with the launch of the J12, that proved to be an iconic bestseller and has since had many versions, including haute horology movements, for both sexes, starting a tradition.

The latest Première has a flying tourbillon with a delicate rotating camellia on top, cased in Chanel’s own ultra-chic beige gold and set with gorgeous baguette diamonds. Now that the brand has bought into some of its suppliers, and every new model launch – such as last year’s Boy.Friend and the new Monsieur de Chanel for men – is a major event, the industry is taking these so-called ‘fashion watches’ very seriously indeed.

As women’s luxury watches, and especially those with a top fashion name attached, have been doing well globally while men’s have faltered, other fashion brands have been quick to catch up. Hermès has always done watches but it has also taken shares in its Swiss movement and case manufacturers and its watch profile has risen with innovative models like the Temps Suspendu – a romantic design where you can stop the watch for a ‘stolen moment’ but it restarts showing exactly the right time

© JOHANN SAUTY

make their watches so intriguing. It perhaps helps that Delettrez is the daughter of Fendi’s accessories designer and last working family member, Silvia Venturini Fendi, but, as she points out, she didn’t want to work for them until she had established her own career and style, and they didn’t ask her to until two years ago.

‘Then they gave me complete freedom to design the watch I wanted,’ she says, ‘and I thought of it like a bracelet – this is not a watch you wear every day.’

Some of us would – the range is sensibly priced (it has a quartz movement) for steel, while the full pavé gold version is jewellery-watch pricey. The inspiration, says Delettrez, comes from the multiple arches on Fendi’s Fascist-era palazzo Rome HQ, the light and shade represented by the contrast of stone and metal, along with her favourite stone colours symbolising the natural world – deep green malachite for forests and seas, lapis lazuli for starry nights, pink mother-of-pearl for sunsets. Who would have thought a ‘fashion watch’ would be so precious and intricate? Fendi’s watches have been original for a while – the monster-faced Bug watches and the Crazy Carats, where a crowntwist changes the coloured gem hour markers – but nothing at this craft level.

It vies for the accolade of 2016’s most extraordinary fashion watch with Dior’s Kaleidiorscope, which is all about jewellery but, again, in a way that it took nontraditional designers to invent. Dior started watches seriously in 2001, setting up a Swiss watch atelier but, with recent turnover in fashion designers, its in-house team does watches under the innovative guidance of watch MD Laurence Nicolas, always referencing the brand’s couture heritage. Their first big innovation, in 2011, was to put the rotor on the dial front and decorate it with everything, from diamonds to feathers and motherof-pearl ‘pleats’, so it swings like a ball skirt with every movement – it’s called Dior VIII Grand Bal. The accuracy required to balance the rotor with the extra material on it is very delicate, making this more than a jewellery piece.

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FASHION WATCHES | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

© JOHANN SAUTY

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

by Christian Louboutin; Christian Louboutin at JaegerLeCoultre; Hublot Big Bang Broderie Sugar Skull in ceramic with red spinels, limited to 200 pieces; Harry Winston Premier Precious Weaving Automatic; Roger Dubuis Velvet by Massaro ‘Rita’

– or the ultra-thin Slim d’Hermès with its graphically modern numerals or beautifully handcrafted, enamelled dials, and, not least, the only stylish Applewatch, with an Hermès dial and Cape Cod-style wraparound strap.

Louis Vuitton also does feminine but serious watches, going as far as a tourbillon movement for its new Blossom Tambour, based on its logo quatrefoil in mother-of-pearl and diamonds.

Ralph Lauren had a chequered entrée to watches but started a trend by asking top watch houses to supply movements. A reversal to realism in price terms did the trick – they have interesting models including the new women’s RL 888 which, with its mix of Arabic and Roman numerals, two neat sizes and huge, individualising variety of self-change straps, gets Lauren’s Art Deco-inflected yet timeless aesthetic just right.

Now luxury brands with more moderately priced watches are joining the upgrade bandwagon. Gucci, which has included watches since 1972, has reworked its range under star designer Alessandro Michele to include a G-Timeless guilloché automatic model with bee, heart and star symbols or an embroidered bee on a striped fabric dial reflecting, says CEO Stephane Linder, ‘the new identity of the brand, with recognised Gucci symbols inspired by the powerful vision of Alessandro’s shows’.

Versace’s watches are made under licence, closely guided by Donatella Versace, with house code-inspired, unexpectedly sophisticated designs like the new Dylos Icon Precious – gold-plated, handsomely guillochéd and engraved with house symbols, trimmed with small gems matched to the strap, and unmistakably Versace.

Both brands showcase watches on their catwalks to emphasise the link.

The ultimate irony is that, now, some of those watch houses that might have been snooty about fashion watches cannot wait to catch a little of fashion’s stardust. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre asked legendary shoe designer Christian Louboutin to bring his magic touch to the Reverso, celebrating its 85th anniversary. He loves, and owns, a Reverso and had no intention

of changing what he sees as a perfect design but his iridescent dials and straps, and straps with transparent cut-outs or military chain edges, came straight from his shoe collections. All straps have a red lining, natch.

Roger Dubuis, meanwhile, has teamed with Chanel-owned craft shoe brand Massaro for soft, finely handworked straps for the diamond-set Velvet, and Hublot has enlisted top Swiss embroiderer Bischoff, which supplies couture houses, for vivid, Mexican-inspired designs on silk organza, combined with resin and high-tech carbon fibre, for the flamboyant Big Bang Broderie Sugar Skull. Harry Winston found an ancient Japanese weaving technique, with fine gold wire making a delicate gauze around mother-of-pearl on the Premier Precious Weaving Automatic. Never has the fabric of watchmaking been so fashionable. n Autumn/Winter 2016 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 73

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1 The Armada Portrait of Elizabeth I circa 1590, English school. 2 Queen Marie Antoinette by Jean-Baptiste André Gautier d’Agoty, 1775. 3 Evalyn Walsh McLean, wearing the Hope Diamond, by Philip de László, 1921.

4 Close up of the Hope Diamond at The Smithsonian Museum, Washington DC, donated by Harry Winston

Portraits & Provenance

T

he Art Fund recently announced a £7.4m Heritage Lottery Fund grant for the Royal Museums Greenwich to acquire The Armada Portrait of Elizabeth I from the descendants of Sir Francis Drake, who commissioned the painting in 1588 to mark England’s victory over the Spanish Armada. Every item in the portrait celebrates this tremendous feat and, according to Christine Riding, Head of Arts at the Museum, it is ‘a definitive representation of the English Renaissance, capturing the ambitions and ideals of the Elizabethan golden age’.

Elizabeth, festooned with strings of pearls and her equally ornate dress and cape, stands out as the most splendid part, as intended. Drake

wanted his Queen to be seen as a conqueror with immense power and unparalleled command over the seas; the plethora of pearls represents not only her purity but, with their seaborne origin, naval supremacy.

Nowadays, bejewelled celebrities pose for the paparazzi or take selfies, that most modern incarnation of the self-portrait, and are often paid to wear jewellery for publicity. In fact, since Roman times women have been depicted wearing jewellery to represent their wealth and, until the late-17th century, men also wore significant pieces of jewellery in portraiture. However it was the patrons of the Renaissance who pioneered ‘portraiture’.

The V&A’s jewellery historian Beatriz ChadourSampson explains, ‘After the 1450s, portraits really came into being.’ The Medici family changed their patronage from paintings of biblical scenes to those

PHOTOS: © V&A IMAGES; © SOTHEBYS; © NPG

Jewellery worn by famous people in portraits or photographs can attract big premiums at sale, says JOSIE GOODBODY

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HISTORY | C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

French Crown Jewels in 1792, it reappeared in London around 1812 and was later sold to Henry Philip Hope. By the beginning of the 20th century, the diamond was at Cartier in New York, reset as a beautiful pendant surrounded by white diamonds, and sold to the mining heiress Evalyn Walsh McLean. In 1921 the Hungarian artist Philip de László, a famous portrait painter of the European aristocracy, painted Mrs McLean wearing the Hope. The desire to display one’s wealth as a means of entry into the Establishment was as strong as in the Medicis’ day.

Cartier has long been popular with royalty, aristocracy and celebrity, who have been painted and photographed wearing exquisite examples. Wallis Simpson had a huge collection and, from early on in their relationship, the then Prince of Wales commissioned several pieces from the house. In the official photograph of their 1937 wedding, taken by Cecil Beaton, she wears the Cartier Cross bracelet, given to her by the Duke in 1934, with each year of their romance marked by an additional gemset cross until 1944, inscribed with the date and their initials. The same photograph shows her engagement ring, also created by Cartier, with a 19.77 carat Colombian baguette cut emerald set mounted in gold and set with diamonds. This was bought by Laurence Graff after her death in 1986 at the Sotheby’s auction the following year.

The Windsors’ friend, heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post, another of the richest women in America, had a remarkable jewellery collection, much of which was also Cartier.

In a portrait painted by Frank O Salisbury in 1946, she wears a spectacular necklace that she asked the maison to fashion by combining two diamond and sapphire bracelets.

Pieces are often bought back, sometimes of themselves, dressed as expensively as to restore and resell. Cartier has just possible to highlight their aristocratic added a beautiful necklace of cabochon and dynastic pretensions. turquoises and diamonds to their Bronzino’s 1545 portrait of Tradition collection that was once Spanish heiress Eleonora di owned by American socialite Daisy Fellowes.

Toledo, wife of Cosimo I de Medici, She had a passion for Cartier necklaces and, Grand Duke of Tuscany, with their son, although not photographed in this one, is a fine example. She is dressed in a famous portrait by Beaton shows her sumptuous velvet and brocade, adorned in a similarly shaped one, but in Tutti Frutti style. with fashionable jewels to show off her and her The sensational sale of Elizabeth Taylor’s husband’s immense wealth. The pearls were jewellery at Christie’s New York in 2011 created the probably bought in Venice, which was a major world record for the most trading port city. The shorter necklace suspends valuable jewellery auction a large diamond pendant, supposedly a wedding at over £100m. Through present from her husband. From this, historians their archivist, Amanda can start to date trade routes. Gemstones came to Triossi, Bulgari managed Europe on ships bringing back items such as to buy back famous pieces spices and silks; at the time diamonds only for their museum, including came from India and most of the large 5 Cecil Beaton’s photograph the emerald brooch and pearls seen in such portraits would have of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

She wears a Cartier cross bracelet necklace that Richard come from the Arabian Gulf. and emerald engagment ring. 6 Daisy Burton gave Taylor in 1962 A century later, Jean-Baptiste Fellowes and the Cartier turquoise cabochon necklace currently for and 1964 respectively, Tavernier became a pioneer of gemstone sale. 7 Elizabeth Taylor wearing the Bulgari diamond and emerald which she wore on the set trading. Travelling extensively in necklace given to her by of Cleopatra. She then wore India, he returned with diamonds that Richard Burton the necklace to the 1966 were mostly sold to Louis XIV, the most Oscars when she won Best Actress for Who’s Afraid of significant of which came to be known as The Virginia Woolf. Recently, Bulgari displayed the jewellery French Blue. Louis XV had the diamond set into in their newly refurbished boutique on New Bond Street. an elaborate pendant for the Order of the Golden The jewels sold at Christie’s prove that provenance increases Fleece; Louis XVI reset it in a brooch seen pinned to the hammer price (the total was almost four times the estimate). dress of his wife, Marie Antoinette, in a portrait by d’Agoty, But attributions must be proven to be true. In 1966 Princess Grace which hangs at Versailles. Most people believe this was what of Monaco wore what was believed to be a diadem belonging we now know as the Hope Diamond. Stolen with most of the Autumn/Winter 2016 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 75

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | HISTORY

in royal blue enamel, overlaid with the initial ‘G’ and the Devonshire ducal coronet in minute seed pearls. Selling well in excess of its estimate, Jean Ghika, European Jewellery Director explains, ‘Portrait diamonds are extremely rare, not often appearing on the market. This jewel had the added attraction of depicting one of the most notable society figures of her time.’ Another exquisite example is a piece

by Carl Fabergé that is currently for sale at Wartski, depicting the prima ballerina Mathilde Kschessinskaya, the mistress of Tsar Nicholas II before his marriage. It is most likely that he carried it with him on his travels and it is exemplary of Fabergé’s work.

The Culture Minister recently announced a temporary export ban on Queen Victoria’s coronet. This pretty diamond and sapphire piece was designed by Prince Albert to match the brooch he had given her for their wedding. Most of the stones came from jewellery given to Victoria by King William IV. These pieces are depicted in a famous portrait of Queen Victoria painted in 1842 by Franz Xaver Winterhalter. The painting was later reproduced by his circle, with the coronet wrapped around her hair. Philip Mould, of his eponymous gallery, says, ‘This portrait of the young Queen Victoria derives from Winterhalter’s acclaimed painting, which, in its combination of dignity and domesticity, ideally suited the taste of the royal couple and gained immediate currency as an icon of the mid-part of her reign.’

The government is hoping that this historically important piece of jewellery can remain in the country, and the emphasis they are placing on it shows how valuable both portraits and jewellery are in tracing our social history. From the Medicis to modern photography, jewellery in portraits tells us a great deal about both style and society. No wonder such precious rarities are highly valued when they appear for sale.

8 Princess Grace of Monaco at the Monte Carlo Centenary Ball. 9 An ivory and diamond portrait miniature brooch, early 19th century (sold at Bonhams) 10 A carved nephrite and gem-set miniature frame by Carl Fabergé. 11 Portrait of Queen Victoria, circle of Winterhalter 12 Queen Victoria’s diamond and sapphire coronet

to Empress Joséphine for the Monte Carlo Centenary Ball. The theme being the Second Empire, Princess Grace went as Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III. Jacques Arpels, of Van Cleef & Arpels lent her the ‘imperial’ diadem, described in a press release as ‘the diadem that Napoleon placed on the Empress Joséphine’s head at the coronation’. Arpels bought the 200-carat diamond diadem from an aristocratic English lady, who had acquired it after Empress Eugénie fled France for London, where she held sales of her jewellery.

Eventually expert historian Bernard Morel announced that it neither appeared in any inventory of Joséphine’s jewels or that of Empress Eugénie’s in London, nor was it the diadem worn by Empress Joséphine in a painting of the coronation by Jacques-Louis David. So what is its provenance? There are innumerable portraits of both Empresses bedecked in jewels, none of which depict this piece, and there are still arguments over its origin. Meanwhile, Van Cleef & Arpels removed it from their collection and it has since been sold.

Lastly there are portrait jewels. Gemologist and jewellery specialist Rachel Warner believes that, ‘from the earliest Roman cameos through to Victorian painted miniatures, portrait jewels have been worn as signs of allegiance, devotion, loyalty and passion’. Queen Victoria, for example, was often portrayed with a bejewelled wristband depicting Prince Albert. Recently, Bonhams sold an early 19th-century miniature of Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, painted on ivory beneath an oval portrait diamond and mounted within a frame of old brilliant-cut diamonds. The glazed reverse was rendered

Josie Goodbody’s second novel To Catch a Cat’ is out next year, in which she unravels the mystery of Empress Joséphine’s coronation diadem. Her first book, The Diamond Connection is available on Amazon in paperback and as an ebook.

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CREDITS ©PHILIP MOULD & COMPANY; © DCMS

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5 WEST HALKIN STREET, LONDON SW1X 8JA +44 (0)20 7823 0100 • ELIZABETH – GAGE.COM

3482 EG C-and-TH Elizabeth Gage.inddad1[1].indd 1

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HIGH CLASS HEIST

High jewellers showed privately this year, rather than at the public Biennale. But we sneaked a daring peek....

Photographey by MATTHEW SHAVE Styling by URSULA LAKE

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Graff yellow and white diamond necklace. Graff yellow and white diamond ring

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Les BlĂŠs de Chanel diamond necklace

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David Morris pearshaped Burmese ruby fan necklace with oval, round and marquise white diamonds, set in white gold

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Cartier white gold, emerald, rock crystal, diamond and onyx bracelet

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Van Cleef & Arpels Bouton d’Or necklace with onyx, chrysoprase and diamonds in yellow gold. Matching ring and bracelet

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Harry Winston diamond cascading drop necklace. Harry Winston diamond fancy shape ten row bracelet. Harrods black leather gloves

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Boucheron diamond and onyx bangle

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Piaget Limelight high jewellery cuff watch in pink gold with diamonds TEAM Model: Alena At Lenis Manicurist: Zarra At LMC STOCKISTS Boucheron: uk.boucheron.com Cartier: cartier.co.uk Chanel: chanel.com David Morris: davidmorris.com Graff: graffdiamonds.com Harry Winston: harrywinston.com Piaget: piaget.com Reza: alexandrereza.com Van Cleef & Arpels: vancleefarpels.com

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www.adler.ch

GENÈVE . GSTAAD . LONDON . HONGKONG

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Telephone: +44 (0)20 7100 8881 Web: www.lucasrarities.com London jewellers Lucas Rarities specialise in rare and exceptional pieces of period jewellery and objets d’art, with a particular focus on signed pieces from the Art Deco era to the 1970s. Our collection includes a range of jewellery that fully captures the stylistic shift during the fi rst half of the twentieth century, which saw the evolution of jewellery design into an art form.

Tucked away in the heart of Mayfair, we provide our clients with unique collectable items representing the fi nest craftsmanship from the last century. With a wealth of expertise and experience behind us, Lucas Rarities advises clients wishing to begin or expand their collection.

A platinum and diamond necklace, signed and numbered, by Cartier London. Circa 1930s

See our latest acquisitions at www.lucasrarities.com

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | PEARLS

CULTURED ICON A string of pearls has a story to tell, says Vivienne Becker

© MIKIMOTO; TABITHA VEVERS, COLLECTION OF THE NEW BRITAIN MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART, CONNECTICUT; TAKAHIRO OGAWA

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ippling its lustrous way through history, from ancient to modern, Arabia to America, Elizabeth I to Elizabeth Taylor, from Mughals and Maharajas to movie stars, the pearl necklace is the ultimate, universal gemstone classic: the jewellery world’s equivalent to the little black dress. Rare, precious and prized since antiquity, when Roman ladies slept in theirs, the pearl necklace was the power-jewel of the Renaissance, symbol of wealth, status and authority, the essential ingredient of royal propagandist portraits.

The pearl’s early links to the moon, to purity and renewal meant that the pearl necklace became the quintessential attribute of femininity, a first jewel, a rite of passage into society, womanhood and marriage, and later the jewel of first ladies, of fashion, film, beauty, style and politics. For Marilyn Monroe, a single strand of Mikimoto pearls, bought for her by her new husband Joe DiMaggio on their honeymoon in Japan, was her first, and one of her only ‘real’ jewels. Even more, the pearl necklace is one of the few jewels that has broken out of the rarefied confines of the jewellery world to cross into the story of fashion – it’s part of Chanel’s legend, of Poiret’s exoticism – and into social, economic and cultural history.

In the Belle Époque, the great age of the pearl, a lavish, unimaginably valuable pearl rope or choker was a passport into Mikimoto Akoya and South Sea white and golden cultured pearl necklace with diamonds

To make a pearl necklace, Mikimoto’s experts assess each pearl by size, shape, colour and lustre, handling each one hundreds of times

Tabitha Vevers, Pearlmaker VI, 2011; oil and gold leaf on oyster shell

Front detail of Mikimoto body jewellery inspired by the myths of Ancient Greece Kelly Connor, market editor for vogue.com, wearing Mikimoto Akoya and South Sea white cultured pearls

the aristocracy, often forging strategic alliances, as indispensable to ladies of substance as a house or fine carriage. Mikimoto’s invention of the cultured pearl in the 1890s revolutionised the worlds of fashion, style and jewellery, transforming Japan’s economy, initiating a world-wide industry and making dreams of luxury come true for women of all means and classes across the globe. Pure, white and pristine, secretive and sensual, its classicism and cultural connections continually invite subversion and creative expression, especially at Mikimoto, forever the pearl king. Today, so much more than a jewel, social signal or rite of passage, the pearl necklace has become a treasured cultural icon. n The Pearl Necklace by Vivienne Becker, published by Assouline, is out now Autumn/Winter 2016 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 89

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | SHOPPING ANNOUSHKA Golden pearls necklace, £21,400. annoushka.com

AUTORE Temple of Heaven 18kt yellow gold earrings with diamonds, topaz and South Sea pearls, around £15,670. pearlautore. com.au

DELFINA DELETTREZ Eye Piercing earring in yellow gold, blue enamel and freshwater pearl, £310. delfinadelettrez.com SHAUN LEANE Silver Cherry Blossom cuff with pearls and diamonds, £1,300. shaunleane.com

WILLIAM & SON White gold, aquamarine and diamond earrings with detachable baroque South Sea pearl drops, £11,180. williamandson. com

TESSA PACKARD LONDON Lunar bracelet in 9kt gold with freshwater pearls, £1,500. tessapackard.com

MIKIMOTO Cultured Akoya pearl, diamond and enamel brooch, £2,200. mikimoto.co.uk

THE WORLD’S YOUR OYSTER It’s time to pack away Granny’s pearls

YOKO LONDON 18kt white gold bangle with Tahitian pearl and diamonds, £1,800. yokolondon.com

ANA KHOURI Yellow gold, white pearl Sandra earrings, £3,855. doverstreetmarket.com

GAELLE KHOURI Tangled ring with brown diamonds, tsavorites and Tahitian pearls, £3,103. gaellekhouri.com

NOA 18kt gold, pearl and diamond earcuffs, £3,980. noafinejewellery.com

COLEMAN DOUGLAS PEARLS Pearl and stone Hanging Garden lasso necklace, £661. pearls.co.uk

LONDON ROAD JEWELLERY Yellow gold, cultured freshwater pearl drop earrings, £395. londonroad jewellery.com

ARA VARTANIAN 18kt white gold, South Sea pearl and black diamond earrings, £7,320. aravartanian.com SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE Tordu pearl and diamond ring, around £780. doverstreetmarket.com

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | COLOURED DIAMONDS

ABOVE: The Oppenheimer Blue became the world’s most expensive jewel when it sold at Christie’s for £34.7m earlier this year

BACKES AND STRAUSS Piccadilly Princess Royal Colours watch in white gold set with 225 white and natural coloured diamonds, POA. backesandstrauss.com

HARRY WINSTON Yellow diamond earrings, POA. harrywinston.com

BRILLIANT HUES Diamonds may be pricey but not compared to their coloured cousins. Avril Groom enters a very rarefied world

ANNOUSHKA Dusty Diamonds 18kt rose gold and grey diamond bracelet, £3,900. annoushka.com

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arlier this year the Oppenheimer Blue, the largest (14.62 carat) fancy vivid blue diamond ever sold at auction, became the world’s most expensive jewel when Christie’s sold it for £34.7m. With large diamonds prized investments, those in the richest, rarest colours are the biggest treasures.

Coloured diamonds make up only one in ten thousand gem-quality diamonds; the scarcest colours – blue or violet, deep pink or red, shades of green – are incomparably rarer, the result of a random input of trace elements or pressure during the stones’ formation billions of years ago.

Some, mainly in the pink spectrum, form the annual Argyle Tender – cut and polished gems offered by bid to selected top jewellers by the Rio Tinto-owned Australian mine, which is a prime

BOUCHERON 18kt white gold, rock crystal, diamond Lys Radiant necklace with detachable brooch, POA. uk.boucheron.com

DE BEERS Talisman high jewellery ring set in white gold, £60,000. debeers.co.uk

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CALLEIJA Armeria brilliant cut tender blue diamond ring with Argyle pink and white diamonds, £215,000. calleija.com.au

GRAFF Pink and white diamond necklace, POA. graffdiamonds.com

MOUSSAIEFF Natural Fancy Intense Pink diamond earrings in a pink diamond border, mounted in rose gold, POA. moussaieff.co.uk

DAVID MORRIS 18kt white and red gold Taj cocktail ring with round diamond and white, purple, pink mixed shape diamonds, POA. davidmorris.com

DE GRISOGONO Frange ring in pink gold with brown diamonds, £54,500. degrisogono.com

source of coloured diamonds and has helped popularise them. In the 1980s it made formerly inexpensive brown diamonds desirable, partly by calling them ‘champagne’ or ‘cognac’.

This year – the results of the Tender will be announced shortly – the ‘hero’ stone is the largest violet diamond ever marketed (2.83 carats) but pinks have been Argyle’s great glory, though supplies and sizes are dwindling, so values are rising.

This may be partly why pink diamonds are in such demand. Graff, which made its name with slightly less rare yellow diamonds, added pinks from Argyle soon after production started in the mid-1980s and has beautiful examples. Three other London jewellers are now official Argyle ateliers – historic Boodles, Nirav Modi, who has just opened a Bond Street store, and Australian brand Calleija, a long-term Argyle partner, which has just expanded its Royal Arcade store to flour floors, and mixes pink with other colours, such as pale violet, to great effect.

The Argyle mine supplies 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds but there are other sources of coloured diamonds, from Africa and South America to Siberia. Some are smaller and paler, but they have great allure, especially when used in subtle colour combinations. Boodles’ beautiful new collection is a typical example, as are De Beers’ coloured items, and high design pieces like Boucheron’s amazing diamond and rock crystal Lys Radiant brooch. Spectacular rings have unusual designs – Boghossian’s ‘kissing’ yellow and white diamonds, de Grisogono’s rose gold ring fringed with briolettes in a delicate pale brown or Nirav Modi’s mix of soft yellows and pinks. Few pieces are more original than Backes and Strauss’s Piccadilly Princess watch in a random mosaic of soft browns, oranges and yellows, many of a standalone size.

The price is under wraps but it would undoubtedly make the all-white version look a bargain. n

SAQQARA 18kt gold Stepping Stones ring, £7,850. saqqarajewels.com BOGHOSSIAN 18kt white gold, fancy vivid yellow emerald-cut diamond and light yellow oval-shaped diamond kissing ring, POA. boghart.com

BOODLES Autumn Butterfly drop earrings with white and coloured diamonds set in platinum, £50,000. boodles.com

ALEXIA JORDAN 18kt rose gold and brown diamonds ring, £1,125. alexiajordanjewellery.com

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES

THE GLORIES OF FLORENCE

F

Florence Welch lorence Welch’s name is no surprise. Her art historian mother sometimes worked in the city, so it’s appropriate. But the idea of this quirky, highly individual musician representing slick, highoctane Gucci is the jaw-dropper, until you bring in the brand’s hot-as-hell designer, Alessandro Michele. Gucci is based in Florence, and he seems more inspired by the city’s rich Renaissance artistic heritage than the urban sexiness pursued by the brand’s previous designers Tom Ford and his successor Frida Giannini.

He worked for Ford in London (Gucci’s design studio was there) and loved the bold mash-ups of style and period worn

by London fashionistas – and Florence Welch. He played her music while designing; asking her to be an ambassador came as naturally to him as wearing his designs – such as ruffled, nostalgic floral dresses or the androgynous, printed velvet trouser suit she wore for the London launch of her role – came to her.

Michele has changed the brand’s watch and jewellery offering as radically as its fashion. Many watches are unisex, like the G-Timeless with crafted guilloché dial and tiny gilded hearts, stars and bees – symbols Michele often uses – as hour markers, or a Plexiglass rectangle that reveals the watch’s interior. The new women’s retro, cushion-shaped GG2570 references Michele’s lucky number and Gucci’s key decade, and includes fine jewellery versions. Jewellery also has a serious and romantic upgrade – sapphires glint on the Flora ring, a big one-off necklace and smaller versions, snakes in rich green tsavorites or blue topaz mounted in blackened gold coil round fingers, while the Icon Flora ring looks like a Victorian memento mori.

ABOVE: GG2570 with stainless steel case, white-sun-brushed dial with G frame and 12 diamond indexes, £730 (left); GG2570 with pink gold plated case and black calf leather strap, £790 (right) LEFT: Flora ring with skull motif in 18kt yellow gold, diamonds and blue sapphires, £10,270

Welch’s favourites are the guilloché G-Timeless and the rings, which she wears in multiples. ‘I love the way Alessandro’s work always has a story and an edge of darkness to its beauty,’ she said at the launch. ‘It’s the way flowers decay – I was obsessed with that at art college – or bees as messengers of the dead. I feel happier with vintage inspiration – I don’t look good in very modern stuff. There’s always a myth – the tiger ring that turns into a mermaid’s tail or the little symbols on the watch, which was designed for men, but I love that masculine/feminine thing.’

After the Ceremonials tour three years ago, Welch took time out, she said, ‘to find out who I was, and clothes were an important part, a protection. I was quite heartbroken and wearing austere clothes. But as I got better, I developed a strong sense of personal style – bigger sleeves, brighter colours, and when I found Alessandro, it was time to embrace the joy he brings to clothes and jewellery.

I’m ready for that.’ n guccitimeless.com FROM FAR LEFT: Le Marché des Merveilles snake rings in 18kt white gold, from £4,540; G-Timeless Automatic with silver guilloché dial and alligator leather strap, £1,120; Le Marché des Merveilles bracelet with bee motifs in 18kt yellow gold, sterling silver and grey diamonds, from £1,190

PHOTOS: GUCCI

Why would classically Italian Gucci choose British rock star Florence Welch as its ambassador for watches and jewellery? Avril Groom finds out

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C&TH JEWELLERY & WATCHES | THE FINAL COUNTDOWN

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JEWELLERY BY NUMBERS

CABOCHON EMERALD

Deconstructing the apparently effortless complexities behind Michelle Ong’s Winter Rose brooch

107.55 1,490 total carats in

15.46 CARAT

STONES

3

EMERALD

3

METALS:

Platinum, titanium and 18-carat white gold

COLOURS OF DIAMOND:

White, yellow and orangey yellow

2,160hours to complete over three months, by three craftsmen – a goldsmith, a stone-setter and a polisher

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VARIETIES OF COLOURED STONE – PINK AND ORANGE SAPPHIRES, EMERALDS, GARNETS AND SPINELS

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delicate white gold stamens at the centre of the flower

INSPIRATION:

the hellebore plant, which flowers in mid-winter

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VHERNIER

VILLA MILANO

MARCO BICEGO

Nigel Milne, 12a Piccadilly Arcade, London SW1Y 6NH Telephone +44 (0)20 7491 9201 Email jewels@nigelmilne,co,uk website www.nigelmilne.co.uk

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