PERFECT PLACES TO STAY
Do the new Michelin keys capture hotels’ real charm, asks
Francisca Kellett says the UK and Ireland have always quietly led the way when it comes to back-to-nature
can’t quite believe that a dozen years have passed since we launched our rst ever Great British & Irish Hotels guide. And what tumultuous years they have been, not just for the hospitality industry but for the whole world. But amid the turmoil, hotels are wonderful things: they are havens. I’ve always loved them, the way the best of them envelope you, cosset you, protect you, and the way they subtly change with the times, sensitively re ecting the trends and habits of the day.
Currently, I’m noticing a move toward rustic luxe and a new breed of farm-stay hotels where learning to keep bees or wild swimming becomes more of a draw than pampering in a spa. But if your preference is for classic formality in ravishing surroundings, or boho ease and plenty of fun, then those places are there for you too.
At Country & Town House, we strive to promote ‘a life in balance’ and we hope that our selection of hotels and private houses, from city temples of luxury and gastronomy to simple inns in beautiful countryside re ects this too. Our emphasis on the overwhelming importance of sustainability is once again centre stage with our third C&TH x Polestar’s UK & Irish Sustainable Hotel of the Year Awards, which have branched out to include awards for food, wellness, architecture and the outdoors. You’ll nd out who wins soon – but not until our July/August issue.
Other features make a terri c splash. In the case of Nick Hendry ’s, it’s a dram of whisky: forget distillery tours, now there’s a raft of grand houses in which you can stay and taste (p26). My own feature unlocks the Michelin Keys being handed out to favoured hotels by that vaunted guide, now in its 125th year (p14). Whether they’ve won a key or not, some hotels are sexy and others just aren’t. Olivia Petter dissects what it takes (p28), while Lucinda Baring grills the UK’s top travel editors on their favourite British stays (p18).
Elsewhere, Gillian Rhys looks at how Asian hotel brands are raising the bar in British and Irish luxury hospitality. ink London’s Peninsula, Ra es at the OWO and Mandarin Oriental, Scotland’s Gleneagles, the Cotswolds’ Estelle Manor, even Anantara e Marker Dublin: they are all stamped with oriental excellence (p30). Finally, bringing us back to our theme of ‘a life in balance’, C&TH ’s travel editor-at-large Francisca Kellett says it like it is: Britain is leading the way in hotels that revel in nature (p22).
We also include, as ever, useful lists – of stargazing spots (p132), vineyards to visit (p42) and more – that might lure you to a particular region for your much needed break.
I do hope you enjoy this 12th edition of our guide as much as we have creating it.
pobhotels.com
Where do you go to escape?
Hampstead Heath, but only on weekday mornings.
A holiday you’ll always remember? Staying at the Oberoi hotel in Agra right next to the Taj Mahal. I had expected the Taj Mahal to be overrated but it was mesmerising up close.
Favourite hidden UK spot? I’m going to say an entire country –Wales. It’s often overlooked. What will you be reading on holiday this year? Marie
Antoinette: The Journey by Antonia Fraser, ahead of the V&A exhibition this September.
Favourite new travel trend?
The return of luxury trains. I would gladly never go to an airport again.
The hotel you keep coming back to? The Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, the perfect city hotel – luxurious but welcoming with great restaurants and bars, plus the locals actually hang out there so you feel part of the city.
A holiday you’ll always remember? Sailing the remote Marquesa Islands in French Polynesia on the Aranui. I’ll never forget the blues and greens, the smell of the tiare flower, the sound of the ukelele, and the warmth of the people I met. The best souvenir you’ve ever purchased? A not-that-small toucan replica from Costa Rica. We bought it on a night out in the capital San José so we carried it about to dinner and drinks. It’s so bright and colourful, and reminds of my first trip to a country I really love. What will you be reading on holiday this year? Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels. Whisky or wine tourism? Wine. Not just because I don’t like whisky, but vineyards are so beautiful, and it always feel special buying direct from the winemaker. I love the Wine Tram in Franschhoek, which takes you to different wineries.
Where do you go to escape?
South Ayrshire in Scotland, or the Côte d’Azur. Early spring or late autumn sunshine in the small towns around Nice is one of my favourite things in the world. A holiday you’ll always remember? My first trip to Asia with my partner, who’s from there. We started in Hong Kong, then spent a week exploring her native Taiwan, and then cityhopped. It was life-changing. Favourite hidden UK spot? Muir of Ord, just outside Inverness. I took my in-laws to a tiny hotel there on their first visit to Scotland – the scenery and isolation blew them away. The hotel you keep coming back to? La Fantasie; Paris’s 9th. Whisky or wine tourism? Whisky. It’s a massive part of culture where I’m from, and arguably Scotland’s greatest gift to the world, so I love to see how other countries have evolved it and made their own version.
Where do you go to escape?
My mother’s family has a house in Provence that I’ve been going to since I was a child. It’s my safe place and best writing spot. My dad lives in Mill Valley in California so I visit often. The eight-hour time difference provides a lot of respite.
A holiday you’ll always remember? I went to Cascais in Portugal with a group of my best friends from university one summer. We had one night out in Lisbon just dancing and eating Portuguese tarts to keep us going into the early hours. Favourite hidden UK spot? I visited Tenby for a wedding and fell in love with the landscape. The cliffs were staggering. On the morning of the ceremony, we all went for a swim in the sea. The hotel you keep coming back to? Le Pigalle. Sexy and quintessentially Parisian. It’s also close to my favourite speakeasy with live jazz called Lulu White.
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Michelin has turned its gaze to hotels, awarding Keys to the finest stays in the UK and Ireland. But do they account for character and charm, asks Fiona Duncan
We all know about Michelin Stars for restaurants: how coveted they are, how hard to come by, and what a triumph but also a strain on the celebrated chefs who win them, judged afresh annually by anonymous inspectors. Now hotels are in the ring line: in October 2024, Michelin added a new raft of accolades to its guide and Michelin Keys, one, two or – rarely – three, were awarded to 123 hotels in England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland. e new Michelin Key is to hotels what the Michelin Star is to restaurants and it’s no surprise to nd that many UK hotels awarded Keys also have Stars. According to Michelin, inspectors look for hotels that o er ‘remarkable experiences via architecture and interior design, quality and consistency of service, overall personality and character, value for the price, and a signi cant contribution to the guest experience in a particular setting’.
All well and good, you might say, but there is something missing, encapsulated by the rather forbidding symbol of a key, from today’s Michelin guides that the old ones were able to o er more readily. It’s certainly not surprising that the guides have changed, if only subtly, over the years; after all, it was exactly a century and a quarter ago, in 1900, that the French company rst published a restaurant guide intended to encourage drivers to set forth in their cars, tted with Michelin tyres. Gradually, over time, the listings became embellished with symbols and, in the 1930s, Stars for excellent food appeared. Hotels were included but it wasn’t until 2000 that both hotel and restaurant entries were given a brief description in a sentence or two alongside the cryptic symbols and pictograms.
I spent many childhood holidays in the back of my parents’ car as we toured around our beloved France, searching for perfect places to stay and eat. e Michelin Guide was our bible; I have a 1965 edition in my hand now, and the excitement of nding a hotel with a red rocking chair denoting an especially quiet and secluded location and a red R to signify an inexpensive but good meal in the same establishment (we never booked in advance; no need) comes ooding back to me as I turn the pages.
ose were the sort of hotels we were looking for then and those are still the sort I prefer. Michelin’s new Keys somehow lack the sense of serenity and of a secret nd that a red rocking chair managed to imply. e Keys are altogether more loud and pompous a airs, carrying the perception that expense equates to quality and that a blissful sojourn must be paid for handsomely.
at said, we should be proud that so many British hotels are deemed worthy of one, two and even three Keys. Fourteen of them
gained all three Keys; 11 of those also have Michelin Stars. Eight hotels on the three Key list are in London and they are all addresses that speak of great wealth and obvious luxury. If it were me handing out the gongs, instead of the Bulgari, I would choose e Goring (which hasn’t even merited one Key); instead of Ra es at the OWO (which still, to me, feels like the War O ce it once was) I would bump up e Beaumont in Mayfair from two Keys to three; and I would swap the Savoy, not helped by its latest refurbishment, for Firmdale’s enveloping Ham Yard with its private drawing room, library and roof terrace, which has two Keys but deserves three.
It’s all subjective, the business of awards. It wouldn’t be fair to say that the Keys have ignored more characterful, less expensive establishments that also, in my view, merit accolades, but there are only a few on the list. ese include all the Artist Residence hotels, including diminutive Artist Residence Oxford, a former pub; also the Gallivant, a former motel; and –very oddly in my view – the Swan Southwold, vibrantly coloured in hot pink, turquoise and canary yellow, despite the traditional English resort in which it stands. Zingy, modern design plainly appeals to the Key judges and many of the Key hotels on the list are design-led.
Just as a one Star restaurant is more appealing to me than a two or three Star one, so it’s the one Key hotels that I gravitate to. If the two- and three-Key selections are all about looks and expense, there are some traditional country house hotels, all about comfort and kindness, peace and quiet on the one-Key list. Places such as Gregans Castle in Ireland, Penmaenuchaf in Wales, Kinloch Lodge in Scotland and Hambleton Hall in England are all hotels that deserve not just a Michelin Key (Hambleton in fact has two), but a red rocking horse as well. ere are others too, such as Penally Abbey, Endsleigh, Tresanton, Number One Bruton, Glebe House and e Beckford Arms, but their o ering of good food, comfort and a peaceful setting have had a harder time gaining the attention of Michelin inspectors. In the end, it’s all subjective but Michelin’s new Keys don’t quite hit the spot for me. n
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Our best travel writers share their favourite stays
TRAVEL WRITER & EDITOR-AT-LARGE, HOUSE & GARDEN
Best ever bed, sleep or bedroom... Penmaenuchaf Hall, superbly located on a rugged, wooded hillside overlooking the Mawddach Estuary and embraced by the mountains of southern Snowdonia. After a recent makeover by Nicola Harding, the Mawddach Suite, one of four attic rooms, has pretty wallpaper drifting over walls and ceilings, a carefully curated blend of Welsh art, crafts and furniture to create a true sense of place, and a sumptuously comfortable bed to retreat to after a day in the great outdoors. penmaenuchaf.co.uk
Best outdoor pool... Few can rival Cliveden’s infamous ‘Profumo’ pool, so called after the chance poolside encounter of politician John Profumo and the model Christine Keeler, whose subsequent illicit a air changed the course of 20th century British history. e only Grade II-listed swimming pool in Britain, it is enclosed within an exquisite walled garden. clivedenhouse.co.uk
Best breakfast... e Pig Hotels know better than any other how to deliver a proper bu et breakfast. No stale Coco Pops in a jar and no ubiquitous, planet-busting avocado on toast either; instead, I was given delicious, crushed peas from the garden on which to balance my poached eggs. thepighotel.com
Best walled garden... Heck eld Place, where the painstaking garden restoration now plays a signature role within the beautiful grounds of this Hampshire hotel. Discover an expertly planted ornamental English ower garden where colour and scent drifts amongst immaculately maintained gravel pathways. heck eldplace.com
Best detail... e Bull’s Head in the tiny Black Mountain hamlet of Craswall in Herefordshire, which recently opened four cabins in a pretty wild ower meadow. is is serious walking country, so the pub thoughtfully provides an Ordnance Survey map in each cabin, plus a waterproof map pouch for slinging round your neck on rainy days. wildbynaturellp.com
Best setting... e Seaside Boarding House, occupying an Edwardian villa directly above Chesil Beach, where you can have sand between your toes within 20 paces of the front door while the glorious South West Coast path trundles right past. e pretty Dorset village of Burton Bradstock is close by and there’s mile upon mile of Jurassic Coast to explore. You might even catch dolphins playing in the sea from the comfort of your bed. theseasideboardinghouse.com
TRAVEL & LUXURY LIFESTYLE JOURNALIST
Best ever bed, sleep or bedroom... e Fife Arms. I was at out dead. Pair that with the sound of absolute nothingness and you have the recipe for a good night’s sleep. I am also a sucker for a canopy: you feel cocooned, adding to that feeling of absolute com ness. the fearms.com
Best outdoor pool... Cliveden. It is sceney as well as historical. I never actually swam in it and instead simply observed the who’s who of the English glitterati swerve lap after lap from the hot tub, champers in hand. clivedenhouse.co.uk
Best breakfast... Preston eld House in Edinburgh. I had a full Scottish breakfast: sweet scones, tatties and all. It was one of those ‘destination breakfasts’ that stays with you –and your gut. preston eld.com
Best walled garden... e Pig Hotels. ey rule the walled garden crew, on ethos and aesthetics. You can tell they genuinely care as a B Corp, and the gardeners encourage you to learn everything from soil quality to what grows best each season. thepighotel.com
Best detail... e Newt in Somerset, one of those rare beasts that really embraces their locale, from pagan customs to the people who work there. ey genuinely care about where they are, their e ect on their patch and boosting the local economy. I think that’s the best kind of detail you can get. thenewtinsomerset.com
Best setting... e Torridon in Scotland. You feel really alone and isolated here, with nothing but mountains and lochs to keep you company. If you need to sweep away those cerebral cobwebs, go here and fast. thetorridon.com
Best ever bed, sleep or bedroom... Soho Hotel’s Terrace Suite, with its great, big light- lled bedroom and drawing room, its bold, wonderfully whimsical Kit Kemp interior design and the most fabulous wrap-around terrace overlooking the rooftops of Soho. Of all the fancy London rooms I’ve stayed in, this is the cosiest and most like the home I’d have, if money were no object. rmdalehotels.com
Best outdoor pool... Beaverbrook in Surrey. It is heaven on sunny days and for those made of stern stu , it is heated all year round. One of two pools at the hotel’s Coach House Spa, it is anked by comfy day beds and the perfect place to while away a summer afternoon with friends. beaverbrook.co.uk
Best breakfast... When you stay at L’Enclume, Simon Rogan’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms in Cumbria, breakfast is served at his other restaurant in the village, the more relaxed Rogan & Co, which has a Michelin star of its own. ere are no decisions to be made, they just bring each table a series of delicious dishes, including perfectly formed mini pancakes with yoghurt, honey and rhubarb sauce and the most elegant take on a full English imaginable, with excellent co ee. lenclume.co.uk
Best kitchen garden... e Pig at Bridge Place. Nab a table at the outdoor kitchen for pizzas from the wood- red oven and a bar serving superb local wines, beers and spirits. thepighotel.com
Best detail... e atmospheric Bar 190 at e Gore Hotel in Kensington. Others who have loved it before me include Judy Garland and e Rolling Stones, who held their Beggars Banquet album launch there in 1968, which descended into a custard pie ght, kicked o by Mick Jagger who hurled one at Brian Jones before the whole place erupted into chaos. collezione.starhotels.com
Share a secret... Rathmullan House on Lough Swilly in Donegal is my favourite Irish hotel. I can’t get enough of this elegant converted Georgian manor house with its cosy re-lit drawing rooms, fantastic food, unpretentious service and pretty lawns that sweep down to a perfect golden sand beach. ere is no more life-a rming way to start the year than by joining their New Year’s Day dip in the lough, before scampering back to the hotel for lunch. rathmullanhouse.com
GLOBAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR,
CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER
Best ever bed, sleep or bedroom... e Lady Astor suite at Cliveden comes with a glorious bed, rich tapestries and a sprawling balcony overlooking the lawns. Serious princess vibes. clivedenhouse.co.uk
Best pool... Estelle Manor’s poolside is a scene. Carry your most stylish bikini and sunglasses and for god’s sake, get a bit of a tan before you arrive. estellemanor.com
Best breakfast... e Newt has the best homemade chocolate croissants I’ve eaten outside Paris. thenewtinsomerset.com
Best detail... Fresh cow’s milk delivered in old-school bottles at Soho Farmhouse; it’s there, every morning, outside your door. And the daily 5pm martini ritual in your bedroom at Beaverbrook. sohohouse.com; beaverbrook.co.uk
CHIEF TRAVEL WRITER, THE TIMES & SUNDAY TIMES
Best ever bed, sleep or bedroom... Room 43 at the Blakeney Hotel in Norfolk. Owner Emma Stannard has used the heart of a naturalist, the mind of a sleep scientist and and the eye of a museum curator to furnish this quayside Edwardian pile, lling rooms with antiques, wildlife engravings and Hypnos beds. e bedrooms at the front are best because they look over Morston salt marsh to Blakeney Head and the sea. Room 43, up in the eaves, is the pick of them because it has a rooftop terrace from which you can watch the geese taking o at dawn, the cinematic sunsets at dusk and, more often these days, the Northern Lights by night. blakeney-hotel.co.uk
Best setting... e Mullion Cove Hotel. It stands like a widow on the cli s on the storm-battered western shore of Cornwall’s Lizard peninsula. Building began in 1889 in the fond hope that the railway would be extended from Helston. It never happened but that allowed the hotel to exist in splendid isolation on one of the beautiful and dramatic stretches of the British coast. Book room 110 or 210 for a couple of nights in November, then lie in a warm bath beside the picture window and watch the storms roll in. mullion-cove.co.uk
Best detail... e astonishing beauty at Renvyle House in Galway on the west coast of Ireland. is is one of the most extraordinary hotels I’ve ever stayed in, and I’d happily return on foot, if necessary. It sits beside a lake, next to a beach, at the foot of the 12 Bens of Connemara and looking north over Crump Island to Inisturk. e history is even more spectacular: once home of the chieftain Donal O’Flaherty –husband of the pirate queen Granuaile, or Grace O’Malley – the house then passed to the Blakes, who considered themselves descended from a Knight of the Round Table. It was burned down by the Ra in 1923, and rebuilt by the statesman and poet Oliver St John Gogarty, who entertained WB Yeats here. renvyle.com
Rewilding, remote cabins, capering off grid – travel trends come and go, but Britain has been quietly leading the way for decades. We just don’t like to shout about it, says
FRANCISCA KELLETT
Sometimes, we Brits are just too bloody polite for our own good. We’re bombarded with news of travel trends and ‘hot’ holiday ideas, but do you know what they (almost) all have in common? Britain has been doing them for years. We’ve been quietly, politely leading the way in rewilding and wellness, and slow travel and reconnecting with loved ones. All those experiences we’re told we must travel around the world for? ey’re right there, on our doorstep. But let’s not make a fuss. at wouldn’t be polite. at wouldn’t be British.
Probably the hottest trend right now, whether we’re talking about landscapes or ourselves. Hectic jobs, mobile addiction, global political meltdown and all the rest mean we’re craving something simpler, something slower. Happily, it’s something we’re brilliant at close to home.
ere’s the Knepp Estate (knepp.co.uk) in Sussex, of course, but Scotland is leading the pack, from the vast rewilding estates and Scandi-chic properties of Wildland (wildland.scot), to the 23,000 acres of Alladale (alladale.com), with its remote, rustic cottages and conservation workshops. Rewilding is taking hold in all sorts of surprising pockets, too, such as the 13th-century Elmore Court Estate in Gloucestershire (rewildthings.com), where 250 acres have been given over to letting the land recover. Keep an eye out for shaggy longhorn cattle and check out the sauna and Rewild Swim Club at the beautiful lake. Over in Ireland, at the brand new and super-gorgeous Native Cabins (native.ie) in the village of Ballydehob in West Cork, 20 percent of all pro ts are being put into a rewilding project, 10 minutes’ from Native, where a 75-acre site is being rewilded with native Irish ora.
Speaking of wild swimming, why follow just one trend when you can tick o two? e nature-wellness combo taps nicely into our longing to slow down and regroup. Alladale, again, is big on this, o ering retreats such as the I-Guru Man Retreat, covering yoga, breathwork and meditation in the wilderness, and there are all sorts of experiences and retreats on o er at Yorkshire’s Broughton Sanctuary (broughtonsanctuary.co.uk), which combines holistic wellness with a 3,000-acre rewilding project. At ornfalcon (thornfalcon.com), a new organic cider farm and vineyard in Somerset, there’s a large lake for wild swimming plus a wood- red sauna, barn accommodation and a gypsy caravan for kids. e interiors are lled with antiques from the UK, Spain and Morocco, with chic designer bits and bobs from the likes of Kit Kemp and Matilda Goad, and guests are greeted with a welcome hamper full of goodies from the walled garden.
There’s more wellness-meetswholesomeness at the 1,000-acre Fritton Lake (frittonlake.co.uk), where you’ll nd jeep safaris on the rewilded Norfolk-Su olk borders, as well as open-water swimming, foraging walks, paddle boarding and a huge forest play area. Accommodation is in smart clubhouse rooms, cottages and cool Koto-designed cabins.
Cabins have been all the rage for a while now, but are only getting more popular as we seek to go o -grid, ditch the phones and perhaps even talk to each other. Head into the wilds of Northumberland for a taster with Trees at Tughall (treesattughall.com) – lovely cabins located an easy stroll from Beadnell Beach. Back in Scotland, the Glen Glack Cabins, on the 145,000-acre Atholl Estates (atholl-estates.co.uk), are clad with sustainable larch and built on stilts overlooking Cally Loch to leave the lightest possible footprint, with wood-burning stoves and fully stocked kitchens.
Over in Wales, Fforest (coldatnight.co.uk) has reached cult-like status for its 200 acres of forest, rugged coastline and über-glam cabins, yurts and domes, plus outdoor activities that tick all our put-your-screens-away boxes. Not sure where you want to go? Have a look at the seriously stylish, o -grid and solar-powered cabins on o er from Unyoked (unyoked.co), with options in Norfolk, Wales, Su olk, the South Downs and more.
If your holiday vibe is more turndown service than DIY, PoB Hotels (pobhotels. com) o ers a good selection of smart hotels with multi-generational options – another big travel trend. Armathwaite Hall, for example has a range of interconnecting rooms, a swish spa and 400 acres of woodland for outdoor romping, while Bovey Castle in Dartmoor National Park has a mind-boggling array of activities, from beekeeping and falconry, to bushcraft lessons.
All this connection with nature is, of course, somewhat reliant on the weather. But then that chimes perfectly with another major trend – ‘coolcations’, where travellers opt for cooler climes during those months where traditional Mediterranean resorts are becoming hotter and hotter. Perhaps it’s ippant to suggest that climate change is making holidays in Britain all the more appealing but, either way, you won’t hear us shouting about it. We’re much too polite. n
The idea of a whisky pilgrimage to Scotland is not a new one. Legions of travellers visit every year to tour their favourite distilleries. Special bottlings available only to those who complete the journey are commonplace, approaching ubiquitous; tours and history lessons have become more lengthy and elaborate to cater to the truly passionate. One distillery, at the tip of the Mull of Kintyre, even o ers an extremely limited intake of ‘working week’ experiences to those who wish to immerse in the manufacturing process. For a hardy few, devotion to Scotland’s most famous gift to the world knows no bounds.
ankfully for the majority who enjoy sipping malt more than malting barley, there’s another way to forge a deeper connection with a favourite brand. Many of the distilleries hidden in Scotland’s epic wilderness are approaching their bicentennial; some have already passed it. eir early founders often built estates in these areas and today a growing number of those properties have been rejuvenated as luxury places to stay.
ere are common traits of each of these new ‘brand houses’. ey’re remote – in the early days makers usually preferred to avoid the attention of tax collectors – and they’re grand. ey’re also old –the Dower house once belonging to the Murray family, founders of the Glenturret Distillery, dates to the 19th century. Today named Aberturret Estate House, the approach is down a tiny track o an only marginally bigger road, twisting slowly down into a tree-lined valley. e distillery itself lies just across the burn at the bottom of the garden, its bright, white walls visible in glimpses as the trees utter in the wind. e interiors are a chic, elegant blend of modern Scottish design and embellishments by the owners, Lalique. Crystal glassware contrasts warm wood and stone, and walls are dressed with a mixture of contemporary and period artworks, all available for purchase by scanning a QR code next to the frame.
Stays at Aberturret can be arranged in one of two ways – a full buy-out for a large group looking to enjoy some seclusion and drams, or as part of a dine-and-stay package with the two Michelin-starred Glenturret Lalique restaurant. e latter is a recent initiative to combat the distance of the restaurant from Glasgow and Edinburgh – previously, many patrons would face a signi cant drive after dinner. Much more enjoyable is the ability to stroll mere moments over a bridge to a warm welcome and roaring re. Guests are encouraged to mingle in the hours before dining and at breakfast the next day, which adds to the homely, cosy atmosphere of the place. However, if you’re not feeling too
social there are ample grounds to stroll in, among the resident guinea fowl and silence of the forest.
About three hours’ drive north, on the wild North Sea coast, Glenmorangie House has an entirely di erent feel to it. Under the ownership of LVMH, Glenmorangie has taken a bold new direction, using vibrant colour and intriguing partnerships – including the new campaign lm series featuring Harrison Ford (in a kilt, sharing single malts with locals), directed by Joel Edgerton – to stand out from the competition. Its house carries that spirit with gusto. Perched on a hilltop, surrounded by barley elds that turn golden in summer, at rst glance it seems demure and traditional. Get a little closer, and the life-sized gira e looming over the door tells you that’s not quite the case. Inside, the endearing mania continues, each room a blaze of colour centred on a theme – the sitting room designed to conjure those barley elds, with bright gold leaf to achieve the e ect, and bedrooms designed to honour core bottlings in the range.
e small town of Tain, where the distillery is located, is a ten-minute drive from the house (chau eured, of course) so tours form a natural part of a stay here. Walking in the surrounding countryside is equally enticing – wellies, waterproofs, and walking sticks can be grabbed by the front door – and may even present an alternative motive to visit for some. If you wish to combine the two, the bracing wind along Cadboll Beach will help clear foggy heads in the morning. e term ‘hotel’ doesn’t feel quite right for
these new ventures. ere’s no check-in or reception – just the feeling of arriving at the country home of an eccentric, boozy friend. Sta are invisible most of the time but somehow always appear when you need them, and o er a more personal warmth and hospitality (I’ve never had a concierge pull on boots to take me searching for the Northern Lights at midnight, as Charlotte at Glenmorangie House did). Staying in these houses really feels, for a moment, likeyou’re part of the brand family.
Scotland does of course have plenty of excellent hotels that focus on whisky – the gorgeous Craigellachie Hotel in Aberlour is just one example – and as they’re not attached to one particular distillery, they retain a certain individuality. Linn House, in the distillery town of Keith, has a similar appeal. Rather than the home of one brand, it plays host to the full range of Chivas Brothers’ whiskies – including e Glenlivet, Aberlour, and the local Strathisla. Since 2020, the house, with its ve-acre garden and 12 luxurious bedrooms – has been available for private hire, which allows access to exclusive distillery experiences and an astonishing library of rare bottlings. For the whisky a cionado this is a place of dreams, as the drams on o er are so exceptionally rare and, in some cases, may never be available again. For the casual hanger-on, it’s a place to gain an amazing whisky education while exploring Scotland’s nature in the day. And that’s the other common trait of these brand houses: they o er world-class luxury among some of the most breathtaking scenery on earth. n
A seductive hotel stay is rarely just about what happens between the sheets, says OLIVIA PETTER
The de nition of ‘sexy’ is di erent for everyone. For some people, it’s about lingerie, candles, a thrumming bassline, and other clichés. For others, it’s about the little things. Like drinking cups of co ee in bed, getting lost on a countryside walk, and spending hours talking about nothing in particular in front of a cosy replace.
e latter is what we had in mind when thinking about the UK’s sexiest hotels, a category that could easily be synonymous with some of the empty pomp and pageantry the hospitality sector has wrongly identi ed as sexy. But complimentary condoms, saucy artwork, and a perpetual Marvin Gaye soundtrack will only get you so far. Trust me. Besides, the things that make a hotel sexy often have very little to do with sex at all.
Consider e Witchery in Edinburgh, a ne dining restaurant nestled in the city’s old town with nine suites housed across two 16th-century buildings. Everything about the place is sexy, from the dark wood panels and
church candlesticks that line it to the opulent idiosyncrasies that populate each of the rooms: antique four-poster beds, walls hung with tapestry, and a complimentary bottle of champagne ready and waiting for all guests who book directly. It’s a gothic paradise oozing with sensual charm; we recommend staying in e Armoury, where you’ll nd a completely separate breakfast room complete with a four-way armchair as well as bits of Medieval military paraphernalia – helmets and jackets – that add a certain historical spice to the whole experience.
Plus, you’re only a short stroll away from Arthur’s Seat, a famously romantic route thanks to David Nicholls’ beloved bestseller One Day. e only thing the hotel is missing is a spa – for this, head to the nearby W hotel where couples can rent out the private Elements suite, which is tted with its own sauna, jacuzzi and experiential shower.
Speaking of saunas, e Gilpin Hotel & Lake House in the Lake District o ers guests the chance to stay in private spa lodges that come complete with
private saunas and hot tubs, which are perfect for those late-night conversations best had while sunken in bubbles and sipping on a glass of Sancerre.
For foodies who get their kicks from ne dining – you know, the kind who practically orgasm over an oyster – head to Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons, A Belmond Hotel, in Oxfordshire, Raymond Blanc OBE’s surprisingly low-key establishment. Set amid stunning grounds, where much of the produce served is grown, the hotel is ideal for those looking to seduce by way of satiation.
Perhaps start your trip with the hotel’s signature hamper, which comes with a decadent cheese board, nger sandwiches, chocolate-covered strawberries, and a bottle of Veuve Clicquot vintage Rosé to wash it all down. en take a nap so you’re rejuvenated for a seven-course tasting menu at dinner that includes a tru e risotto I’m convinced is better than sex.
e Newt in Somerset is another understated culinary paradise where almost everything is produced on-site, including the lip-smackingly delicious Sutton Brue, a halloumi-style cheese made with milk from the hotel’s own herd of water bu alo. For privacy, I suggest staying at e Farmyard, a more tranquil space with its own restaurant and swimming pool that is just a short golf buggy ride from the main hotel. While there, you can enjoy
complimentary drinks over a game of chess inside the cosy Garner Bar. ere are also replaces in every room, ideal for dozing o in front of, and jaw-dropping grounds featuring acres of farmland, woodland, orchards, and even some native deer. For a spicy sexy thrill, we suggest going for a cold dip in the lake. Nothing will enliven your senses quite like it. ose looking for a sumptuous manor house near London that is dripping with decadence should venture to Beaverbrook, which has all the traditional trimmings of a rural estate with the added bonus of a capacious spa. Kitted with heated pools, a hyperbaric oxygen chamber, and day beds you could sink into for hours, it’s the best place to unwind from the bustle of city life, bringing you back to the present moment. What could be sexier than that?
Perhaps the seaside, which brings us to a nal contender: a coastal gem nestled in a quiet part of Cornwall, e Scarlet Hotel. Complete with cli -top hot tubs, a natural outdoor pool, and sea views all around, it’s an eco-friendly oasis, particularly because it’s adults only. Listening to the crashing waves instantly calms the nervous system, paving the way for a deeply relaxing and intimate environment – and the baths are big enough for two. Wink wink. n
A
When e Peninsula opened in Belgravia, the exact date was chosen by a feng shui expert and a traditional Chinese lion dance was performed to ensure good fortune. Just two of the factors that set apart this new addition from other luxury hotels in the UK and Ireland.
e Peninsula, founded in Hong Kong, is one of a new raft of luxury Asian hotel brands to open its rst British location. At the same time, Ra es opened an outpost of the famed Singaporean hotel in the OWO in Whitehall; ai brand Anantara acquired e Marker Dublin; and Charlton House in Somerset became part of Singapore-owned Montigo Resorts. Hot on their heels was the opening of Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, a sleek, boutique alternative to the Hyde Park grande dame.
What they bring is a superb level of service along with a signi cant focus on wellness, as anyone who has stayed in a ve-star hotel in Asia will attest. ‘Asian hospitality is rooted in a deep cultural tradition of respect, warmth and genuine care,’ says Dalip Singh, CEO of Montigo Resorts. ‘In many Asian cultures, welcoming a guest is akin to welcoming family.’
Singh’s teams are trained to anticipate needs before they arise. ‘If we notice a guest is left-handed during a meal, we ensure their next dining experience is set up accordingly. A preferred side of the bed? Milk, no sugar, with your co ee? ese small but meaningful touches created a seamless, personal experience.’ And there’s the rub: while bad service is easy to pinpoint, good service can take many subtle guises, which add up to more than the sum of their parts.
Whenever I’ve stayed at a Mandarin Oriental, I’ve noticed the housekeeping team always add thoughtful ourishes, such as providing a new micro bre cloth for my reading glasses or a stylish bookmark for my paperback. And when I checked into e
Peninsula in Belgravia I was pleasantly surprised that every in-house restaurant already knew about a food allergy without me having to mention it, thanks to the helpful online customer requirements form I’d lled in ahead of my stay.
Before opening a hotel, e Peninsula takes a team of sta from an upcoming property to their agship hotel for training. Ahead of e Peninsula London launch, the then CEO Clement Kwok (now executive director) of parent company Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels, told me: ‘When we open a new hotel, we also transfer task forces of experienced people from other Peninsulas into the local operating teams to ensure that everyone understands the true meaning of Peninsula service as soon as the hotel opens.’ Similarly, Anantara sends a ai team to each new hotel for at least a year to train sta .
Attention to detail is also central to Estelle Manor in Oxfordshire and Gleneagles in Scotland, both owned by Indian-born Sharan Pasricha, who sees personalised service and wellness as pivotal to hospitality. When Pasricha bought Gleneagles, ‘the ambition was to surpass its glory days of the 1920s,’ says managing director Conor O’Leary.
What they bring is a SUPERB level of SERVICE along with a significant focus on WELLNESS , as anyone who has stayed in a FIVESTAR hotel in Asia will attest
‘We have worked incredibly hard to build on the truly personalised service we o er, making our guests’ experiences the best they’ve ever had, at any hotel, anywhere,’ adds O’Leary. ‘ e very thing that makes Gleneagles so special is the tireless e ort and commitment the expert team puts in.’
Under Pasricha’s ownership, the country estate has been steadily transformed including a redesigned spa, positioning Gleneagles as Scotland’s leading wellness destination.
Wellness is a serious business for Asian hotels. For Anantara, whose gorgeous Phuket spa stood in for the one in the latest series of e White Lotus, wellness is ingrained in its DNA, including at e Marker Dublin – though here, rather than over-water
pavilions, the spa is slickly contemporary as be ts its urban setting.
Montigo Resorts brought its group general manager for wellness, Warsiyah Kasmudi (Yaya), from Indonesia to its Somerset hotel: ‘Yaya brings an extraordinary depth of knowledge in Asian healing traditions and she trains our team in authentic Asian wellness techniques and service culture,’ says Singh.
When Hong Kong billionaire Gerald Chan bought Heck eld Place in Hampshire, he always envisaged adding a major wellness component. e country house hotel now includes e Bothy, a stunning haven found beyond the bucolic estate’s walled garden. e beautifully designed 17,000sq/ft space includes treatment rooms, hydrotherapy and thermal experiences, as well as gym and yoga studios. Last year, e Bothy introduced bespoke retreats (a week before arrival, guests are given a one-to-one mind and body assessment via Zoom by an eco-psychologist), which have proved popular.
Also several years in the making is the staggering Eynsham Baths at Estelle Manor. Although inspired by Roman bathhouses, Pasricha and his wife, Eiesha Bharti, drew on their Indian heritage for many of the treatments. Among them are the marma chikitsa with chakra healing and a potli massage using ayurvedic principles.
e Peninsula, Ra es and the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair have all dug deep – literally – to create sublime subterranean spas and wellness spaces. is summer another renowned ai brand, Six Senses, is due to open its rst UK hotel in Bayswater and the Hong Kong-owned Rosewood group will open its second – e Chancery in Mayfair –both promising impressive spas.
No wonder long-standing luxury hotels in London are upping their game to compete. e cavernous new spa at Claridge’s is designed by Hong Kong architect André Fu and inspired by his travels to Japanese temples and zen gardens. Each treatment begins with a gentle foot bath in rice water. e Ritz is the latest to embark on a spacious underground spa and e Dorchester recently refurbished its guest rooms and suites (complete with those wondrous Japanese loos that are de rigueur in Asian establishments), and beefed up its spa treatments. e Savoy London has introduced rotating Wellbeing Residencies by visiting specialists.
With more eastern competition still to come (India’s Oberoi is planning its rst UK hotel and the Mandarin will open its third in London, on the South Bank), expect a trickle-down e ect on hotels throughout the UK and Ireland – hopefully including those Japanese loos. n
The UK’s own mini riviera attracts holidaymakers in their droves to enjoy its balmy microclimate, spankingly fresh seafood and watersports aplenty
Penzance, C ornwall
It’s unsurprising that Justin and Charlie Salisbury turned to Cornwall with its vibrant art scene for their second venture after Brighton’s Artist Residence (now there are ve locations across the country). In the charming old quarter of Penzance, they have converted a handsome Georgian manor house into a delightfully eclectic hotel, decorated with works of art and a quirky collection of furniture (packing crate tables, sleigh beds) throughout. Rooms include the Chapel Suite, which comes with a brass bathtub in the living area, and the Mini Lookout, an open-plan apartment for three tucked away in the eaves with sea views (ideal for families). e café-bar-restaurant hangout has reclaimed wooden walls, metal tables and art to enjoy alongside your food. Drinks and snacks are on tap all day, plus delicious smoked meat and sh at dinner, courtesy of the smoker in the garden. Here, you’ll also nd a bar, table tennis and ping pong, and an al fresco seafood shack serving local lobster rolls, chargrilled steaks and frozen margaritas. An excellent base for exploring this charming corner of Cornwall.
Doubles from £140
+44 (0)1736 365664; artistresidence.co.uk
Dartmoor National Park, Devon
First opened as a hotel and golf resort in 1930 by Great Western Railways, Bovey Castle is set in 275 acres of Devon countryside, surrounded by Dartmoor National Park, and is part of the Eden Hotel Collection (see Mallory Court on page 104). Choose from cosy, elegant rooms in the historic manor house or private mews across the courtyard. ere are also three-storey self-catering lodges in the grounds, ideal for families or friends travelling together who want independence while still being able to dip into all the hotel has to o er. is could include watching a complimentary falconry display, collecting eggs from the estate’s chickens or booking in for a massage at the Elan Spa (the lodges come with fully equipped kitchens, open plan living and dining, and housekeeping).
Executive head chef Mark Budd uses fresh ingredients from Devon and the South West to create seasonal menus for one-AA Rosette Smith’s Brasserie (in the summer, sit on the outdoor terrace that overlooks the River Bovey) and three-AA Rosette Great Western Grill. Activities available include everything from golf to archery, and from o -road driving to y shing and cider making.
Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1647 445000; boveycastle.com
St Ives, Cornwall
With its own 25-acre Blue Flag beach on the edge of St Ives, this is a dreamy Cornish coastal escape – which most famously hosted world leaders at the G7 in 2021. e biggest decision is whether the stay is in the main house, the suites and cottages in the wooded valley (ideal for families or larger groups wanting a little more space), or by the water’s edge in a luxury beach lodge which comes with its own hot tub and private garden. You’re spoilt for choice with food too, from international Walter’s on e Beach cocktail bar and restaurant, which has an alfresco terrace for sundowner barrel-aged Negronis, to Ugly Butter y by renowned chef Adam Handling. ere’s also the recently extended Beach Club; a deli on the promenade; and the Orangery restaurant, added as part of the renovation in 2021, when the big guns came to down. Part of the same revamp is the enhanced C Bay Spa, which has new candlelit treatment rooms for heavenly Bamford facials, a hydropool, sauna and –the star of the show – an outdoor in nity pool with sensational views of the bay below.
Doubles from £225 +44 (0)1736 795311; carbisbayhotel.co.uk
Woolsery, Devon
Set in the pretty village of Woolsery in the wilds of North Devon, e Collective is the genius creation of tech entrepreneurs Michael and Xochi Birch. In 2018, the couple transformed the local pub e Farmers Arms into a fantastic restaurant, steeped in humour and style. Since then, they have breathed new life into the local chippy, village shop and post o ce and a 150-acre farm. ere are a handful of beautiful cottages, suites and rooms, housed in village buildings, to bunk down in, from the retrofeminine Shop Suite 1 with its fabulous pastel palette to a historic former smithy-turnedcontemporary cottage for two. Families will love Hillside Cottage, with its four roomy bedrooms and generous social spaces. Foodies are sorted, too, thanks to e Farmers Arms which knocks out unapologetically British classics (don’t miss their stonking Sunday roast), using produce straight from the farm. Locally brewed ales and beers alongside seasonal cocktails and soft drinks (crafted from own-made syrups and cordials) line the cosy bar. e picturesque towns of Bideford, Barnstaple and Bude are also nearby.
Rates from £275 +44 (0)1237 488480; woolsery.com
Chagford, Devon is timeless country house hotel, perched on the edge of Dartmoor, o ers a sanctuary amid 107 acres of wilderness where the River Teign ows. Recently awarded two Keys by e Michelin Guide, Gidleigh Park is on a roll thanks to its exceptional food, outstanding hospitality and spectacular landscapes. e 24 bedrooms blend traditional charm and contemporary styling, with super comfortable beds and arts and crafts era furniture. e well-appointed bathrooms come lined with L’Occitane products. Two of the rooms are dog friendly. Four-legged friends are also welcome in e Pavilion, a charming selfcontained thatched cottage in the grounds. e Michelin-starred restaurant showcases seasonal ingredients – many from the kitchen garden –paired with an internationally renowned wine list and dramatic views. Leave space for the superb tea with warm scones fresh from the oven. Families are welcomed with very wellthought-out family rooms, children’s menus and activities for ‘V.I.L.P’ (Very Important Little People). And grab your wellies. e choice is endless, from wonderful walks on Dartmoor and picnics in the woods to croquet. Doubles from £375 +44 (0)1647 432367; gidleigh.co.uk
Bryher, Isles of Scilly
Perched on Bryher’s wild west coast, this stunning waterfront hotel blends California cool with Atlantic charm. Created by the Dorrien-Smith family, stewards of nearby Tresco, it o ers a rare combination of untamed beauty and e ortless elegance. e hotel’s 25 light- lled suites mix antique charm with contemporary sophistication. Expect plush fabrics, handpicked furnishings, and sweeping sea views. Relax with morning yoga, swim in the heated outdoor pool, or enjoy a massage in the Treatment Shed, while the new family room o ers air hockey, games and creative activities. Outside, enjoy picnicking on hidden beaches, kayaking through crystal-clear waters, and scenic hikes along rugged coastal trails. Dining is exceptional: Scilly’s only three-AA Rosette restaurant delivers seasonal, islandinspired dishes, while e Crab Shack serves just-caught seafood with toes-in-the-sand informality. At Hell Bay, luxury isn’t loud – it’s elemental, deeply considered and wonderfully indulgent. Plus, this remote paradise is easier to reach than you might think: a helicopter ight from Cornwall to Tresco, followed by a short boat ride to Bryher’s shores.
Doubles from £105 +44 (0)1720 422947; hellbay.co.uk
St Mawes, Cornwall
Perched on the rocks in the heart of St Mawes on the beautiful Roseland Peninsula, e Idle Rocks, a Relais & Châteaux hotel, features 19 individually designed suites providing the ultimate seaside escape. A home away from home, this intimate hotel o ers spectacular views over the harbour and Fal Estuary from its beautifully designed rooms. Head Chef of
e Reef Knot Restaurant, Carla Jones, has launched a new menu with a strong focus on seafood. You can expect the freshest of seasonal dishes crafted from local ingredients and the catch of the day from the hotel’s dedicated sherman Gareth Austin. Whether you seek long coastal walks, wild swimming or sailing lessons, the hotel is perfectly positioned for swashbuckling adventures. Re ecting pure Cornish style and understated elegance, this is a boutique haven to retreat to throughout the year, where time is dictated by nothing but the tide. e hotel’s sister property, St Mawes Hotel, is a short walk away and equipped with seven unique bedrooms, plus a hidden cinema, for dinner and movie nights.
Doubles from £320
+44 (0)1326 270270; idlerocks.com
Exmouth, Devon is handsome country-house hotel is the culmination of experience gleaned by chef patron Michael Caines over an exceptional career gaining Michelin stars. ere are 21 glamorous guest rooms which take their names from birds of the Exe Estuary, as well as six shepherd’s huts at the foot of the vineyard looking up through the vines to the house. Indeed, the soul of the place revolves around the Exe and its wildlife. e birds of the estuary are featured in the staircase wallpaper, and the bedrooms, each decorated with a watercolour of their avian namesake, match the feathered colour schemes. One of the main reasons to come is for Caines’ exquisite and intelligent food with a Michelin star and ve-AA rosettes. ere is a second casual dining restaurant, e Pool House Restaurant & Bar, too, with its outdoor heated swimming pool and tennis court. Located on the Exe Estuary and at the gateway to the Jurassic Coast, the 28 acres of grounds feature an 11-acre vineyard producing English Sparkling Wine and a collection of wines from barrel-aged chardonnay to Provencal-style rosé and more.
Doubles from £495 +44 (0)1395 202040; lympstonemanor.co.uk
Veryan, Cornwall
Opened in 1989 by Bettye Gray, vestar e Nare is Cornwall’s highest-rated country house hotel – and is renowned for its genuine comfort and stunning sea views over Carne Beach on Cornwall’s idyllic south coast. Proprietor Toby Ashworth upholds his grandmother’s vision of warm, traditional hospitality and many returning guests are drawn in by the enveloping kindness, door-to-door chau eur service and the ne food served in the hotel’s two sea-view restaurants. In the splendid, more formal dining room, waitresses dart about in white pinnies and the hors d’oeuvre, ambé and dessert trolleys are on hand. Children are embraced, dogs have their own menus, and there’s an indulgent spa with two pools. From coastal walks to visiting one of the many beautiful gardens, there is plenty to explore nearby. Plus the hotel has a tennis court, an artist in residence who o ers painting lessons to guests, and a classic wooden motor launch, Alice Rose, for guests to spend the day exploring the beautiful Fal and Helford Rivers. A place of great British comfort, perfect for extended families.
Doubles from £406 +44 (0)1872 501111; narehotel.co.uk
Mousehole, Cornwall
Of Charles and Edmund Inkin’s collection of e ortlessly laid-back places to stay (see also Felin Fach Gri n on p123), this has the best location: overlooking the sea in the enchanting shing village of Mousehole, noted for its artists, Christmas illuminations and invention of stargazy pie. A hotel since Victorian times, the Old Coastguard’s 14 attractive sea-facing bedrooms have superb beds, Roberts radios, Bramley products, auction room nds and striped curtains (the best come with knockout views from the balcony). Downstairs in the open-plan bar and dining room, you’ll tuck into superb dishes showcasing local ingredients, from Tregassow asparagus and dressed Newlyn crab to plaice and cod caught that morning – all cooked by head chef, Danny Garland. Making the most of the vista through picture windows, the sun- lled sitting area runs the length of the ground oor. Lazing there, looking through the palm trees and agapanthus, or reclining on the new sea-facing garden sun terrace, you’ll keep delaying your departure by another hour. It’s that kind of place. Doubles from £182.50 +44 (0)1736 731222; oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk
Devon
As you approach this Grade I-listed Elizabethan manor down the mile-long drive, surrounded by meadows, it slips tantalisingly in and out of sight, building a sense of romance that’s utterly ful lled on arrival. Always a special place, its latest iteration is brimful of life, bonhomie and stylish informality. With the main bar installed in the historic Grand Hall, the fun starts the moment you walk in. ere’s a wonderful, double-aspect conservatory restaurant with bare wood oors, restored shutters and incredible views; cosy snugs with roaring res; a bar with a woodred oven in the ‘derelict-chic’ Folly; huge, raftered bedrooms in the attic; an atmospheric private dining room in the original Georgian kitchen and so much more. In the walled herb and infusion gardens, two potting sheds are now delightful, calming treatment rooms, beyond which stretches 3,500 acres of Devonshire countryside. Close by are the wide-open spaces of Dartmoor and the World Heritage coast to explore at your leisure. Just like all the other PIGs, this is a total joy of a hotel.
Doubles from £260
+44 (0)1404 540400; thepighotel.com
Padstow, C ornwall
‘Which is your favourite PIG?’ I am often asked. at’s a tough question because I love them all, but it’s this one in the litter that comes trotting to mind rst. e hotel is a brooding, mysterious beauty overlooking sweeping Harlyn Bay near Padstow. It’s another sure- re hit, with gorgeous, dark, velvety interiors behind dramatic Cornish slate walls and heavy oak doors that were inspired, designer Judy Hutson says, by the stillness of Mark Rylance in Wolf Hall
Contrast these rich and opulent rooms with the airy bistro and separate Lobster Shed restaurant, lawns strewn with wooden easy chai rs and wild owers, and a clutch of wonderful wagons to complement the bedrooms in the house and sympathetic new Stonehouse wing. It’s a special place with a special atmosphere – weaving Cornish heritage and wild coastal charm into every detail – and one that is as pleasing in winter as it is in summer. ough only opened ve years ago, this PIG feels as if it has been there forever, with a burgeoning kitchen garden, two treatment huts, a great wine cellar and fabulous food from the 25 Mile Menu.
Doubles from £260
+44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com
Newquay, C ornwall
Overlooking the sweeping, romantic Mawgan Porth beach, this scintillating eco-hotel blurs the boundaries between inside and out, with glass walls, at roofs covered in sea thrift and in nity pools that seem to reach to the sea. At its heart is the womb-like Ayurveda-inspired spa, with tented pods suspended in the dark for deep relaxation. ere’s an indoor pool and a reed-fringed, rock-strewn outdoor one and a cedar barrel sauna overlooking the ocean. Plus four cli top hot tubs, complemented by two cold drench buckets for hot and cold therapy. Bedrooms are soothing, with deep coastal colours, funky touches, excellent lighting, gorgeous beds and sea and sunset views. Head chef Jack Clayton has a passion for fusing avours, foraging and sustainability. e result is exceptional seasonal dishes, using everything from fresh samphire from the beaches of North Cornwall to herbs plucked from the coastal path below the gardens. ere’s also an impressive collection of sustainable, slowaged wines. An adults-only sanctuary which is also dog friendly, Scarlet Hotel is a thoroughly restorative retreat, with a feeling of soothing, sybaritic luxury. e ultimate escape.
Doubles from £235 +44 (0)1637 861800; scarlethotel.co.uk
Padstow, Cornwall
Padstow is synonymous with Rick and Jill Stein. And if a restaurant can be a hub, then Rick’s famous Seafood Restaurant, now celebrating its 50th year, is just that. Red-aproned waiters whizz about in the airy, colourful dining room and a chandelier made of bobbing white sh creates an eye-catching start to your meal. Alternatively, eat at St Petroc’s Bistro, Rick Stein’s Café, Stein’s Fish & Chips, or spend the day at Rick’s cookery school, which o ers a perfect balance of chef demonstrations and hands-on learning. As for sleeping, choose from a variety of stylish lodgings, each designed by Jill and Kate Stein, and set in charming buildings around Padstow. ere are stunning rooms above e Seafood Restaurant, while the simplest can be found above the café and the most luxurious in St Edmunds House, which has oak oors, American shutters and views across the Camel Estuary. Plus, you’ll nd four sunny rooms in Prospect House and a further ten in St Petroc’s. For a romantic retreat, one-bedroom Bryn cottage has estuary views and a secluded garden. Finally, for the more adventurous, six warm shepherd’s huts o er bucolic bliss. Doubles from £183 +44 (0)1841 532700; rickstein.com
Wadebridge, Cornwall
Paul and Lesley Stapleton are natural hosts and have created a relaxed and welcoming home from home for their guests. In 2014, they rescued this handsome Grade II-listed manor, set in 25 acres of mature gardens. ey have refurbished the place immaculately, retaining ne architectural features whilst bringing the house into the 21st century, creating a tranquil and luxurious adults-only bed and breakfast. e seven bedrooms are beautifully decorated, each with their own charm. With emperor beds and stylish bathrooms, all with walk-in showers (the largest rooms also have freestanding baths), a good night’s sleep is guaranteed. Guest spaces include a light, airy sitting room and a cosy snug where tea and homemade cake (made by Paul’s mum) is served. Log res, delicious breakfasts and an honesty bar ensure guests can kick back and relax. e location close to the Camel Estuary is within striking distance of some of North Cornwall’s best and prettiest towns, beaches, golf courses and restaurants, including Michelin-starred restaurants in both Port Isaac and Padstow. A great place to escape the kids.
Doubles from £175 +44 (0)1208 812359; trewornanmanor.co.uk
Woolacombe, Devon
e proud recipient of Condé Nast Johansens’ hugely prestigious Best Waterside Hotel for UK and Ireland 2024 award, Watersmeet boasts one of the most stunning locations in North Devon, o ering dramatic views of the rolling surf and beyond towards Hartland Point, Baggy Point and Lundy Island. Overlooking Combesgate Beach, the property has its own private steps down to this sandy cove, which is perfect for bodyboarding and rock-pooling, and rarely gets crowded, even in peak season. e 28 individually decorated bedrooms and suites o er comfort and luxury to complement the extraordinary vistas. At the heart of Watersmeet is a beautiful terrace spanning two levels, the perfect spot for lunch or afternoon tea in the sunshine, or a candle-lit dinner in the two-AA Rosette Rocks Restaurant, serving meticulously crafted dishes featuring local ingredients from the land and sea. Guests can further enjoy a treatment in the fabulous on-site spa or take a dip in the indoor or outdoor pools. New for the 2024 season is a multi-purpose area on the lawn for informal and formal alfresco dining and smaller wedding ceremonies and private parties.
Doubles from £ 210 +44 (0)1271 870333; watersmeethotel.co.uk
Sleep, if not among, very near the vines at these UK wine estates, says TESSA DUNTHORNE
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RATHFINNY,
East Sussex
e sparkling wines –toasty and creamy with a lingering nesse – are the feathers in the cap at this family-owned wine estate. Book an overnight stay (from £282) at its Flint Barns, comprising stylish, contemporary doubles with views of rolling green elds. It includes a glass of the classic cuvée on arrival – a taste of what’s to come during a vineyard tour and tasting – and a three course dinner (seasonal dishes like Sussex lamb with wild garlic and lemon thyme) plus breakfast. ey’ve recently introduced a eet of ebikes for breezy rides between vines, if you’re feeling steady after the tasting. rath nnyestate.com
2
LYMPSTONE
MANOR, Devon
Inspired by the greatest European vineyards – all planted by rivers – Lympstone Manor’s owner Michael Caines set rows and rows of vines along the Exe estuary. A smart move: Lympstone’s single estate wines are award-winning. Try the Classic Cuvée, Triassic Pinot Noir or, in summer months, the pale Provencal-style rosé. A tasting package (from £170) can include lunch at the Michelin-starred restaurant or more relaxed pool house, then nod o at the hotel (see p37) or shepherd’s huts peppered through the grounds. lympstonemanorestate.co.uk
3
WISTON ESTATE, West Sussex is family-run vineyard produces some of England’s nest sparkling wines using traditional Champagne methods. Its vintages are known for their precision and elegance, with crisp acidity and delicate brioche notes. Stay at the Pump House ( from £775 for three nights), a beautifully restored 18th-century building that once supplied the estate with water and now serves as stylish accommodation sleeping up to four (and two dogs). Expect views up to Chanctonbury Ring hill fort and a wood-burning hot tub. wistonestate.com
4
WHINYARD
ROCKS, Powys is cute holiday cottage sits within a small-scale vineyard dedicated to producing natural Welsh wines. Once a farm worker’s dwelling, Highbrook Cottage (from £375 for three nights) is now a cosy retreat with two bedrooms, a well-equipped kitchen, and an inviting living space warmed by a log burner. Large windows frame views of more than 1,000 vines, grown using regenerative methods. Outside, a private terrace invites guests to enjoy a glass of the vineyard’s natural wine as the sun sets over the rolling Welsh hills. ere’s also an EV charger for eco-conscious travellers. whinyardrocks.com
5
HAMBLEDON VINEYARDS, Hampshire
Hambledon, tucked between the hills of the South Downs, is England’s oldest commercial vineyard, renowned for its crisp, complex sparkling wines. Witness traditional méthode champenoise winemaking in action, explore the cellars and of course sample the wares on a guided tour. Stay a 20 minute drive away at Langrish House ( from £140), a country home belonging to the same family for eight generations, that sits just o the South Downs Way walking path. Dogs are welcome too. hambledonvineyard.co.uk
Head west for idyllic countryside and sundrenched coves, as well as vibrant cities and a food scene that’s rapidly making waves
Bristol, Somerset
When Justin and Charlie Salisbury were hunting for a site for their latest Artist Residence hotel (they have four others), they settled on a Georgian townhouse and old boot factory in Bristol, a stone’s throw from the city’s buzzing centre. To start with, the building had all the qualities the pair typically looks for – a nod to the past, original beams and exposed brick walls – to which they added their signature industrialluxe style, an eclectic mix of vintage and boho furniture and a collection of original, specially-commissioned artworks by local artists. e 23 rooms in the boutique hotel range from the super-cosy Shoe Box, which has arched oor-to-ceiling windows, a comfy kingsize bed and a compact bathroom (best suited for solo travellers or shorter stays) to the vast Artist Suite – think Georgian cornicing, views over leafy Portland Square and a roll-top tub in the bathroom. e idea was to create a proper, vibrant neighbourhood hangout so there’s a real emphasis on the social spaces that are open to everyone: a co ee shop, bar, casual all-day restaurant and garden.
Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1174 288440; artistresidence.co.uk
Horningsham, Wiltshire e Bath Arms is another triumph of co-owners Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees, whose portfolio of successful country pubs with rooms also includes e Beckford Arms (p45). Here, the trio has reinvented an 18th-century inn on the edge of the Longleat Estate, adding 16 simple yet stylish rooms in the main building and stable block. Countryside-inspired interiors feature a muted palette, cosy blankets on the beds and sink-into armchairs; the biggest rooms, decorated in new Farrow & Ball colours, also come with roll-top baths. Local is a priority so there is gin from nearby distilleries and beer from artisan breweries (it also has its own Hornings Ale), as well as wine from the Beckford Bottle Shop in Bath, all served at the wood-panelled bar. In the kitchen, chef Jack Chapman champions seasonal Wiltshire produce, cooking up comforting, unpretentious favourites such as dry-aged Wiltshire steaks, hearty Sunday lunch and apple crumble to share. During the summer there’s nothing more lovely than settling down at cocktail hour on the sun-trap terrace looking out across the elds.
Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1985 844308; batharmsinn.com
Bath, Somerset
A stroll away from the city centre, e Bath Priory, which just received one Michelin Key, succeeds on every front. Set within four acres of award-winning gardens, this wisteria-clad Georgian manor house is home to 33 individually designed rooms and suites, each prettily named after owers. Some bedrooms o er ‘Romeo and Juliet’ balconies with garden views, while others feature four-poster beds, all equipped with Vispring mattresses. With views across the landscaped garden, the three-AA Rosette restaurant serves exquisite modern European dishes, with a focus on local produce. Alternatively, there’s the delightful all-day Pantry & Terrace with a light, seasonal menu and you can dine alfresco in the summer. ey do a sumptuous afternoon tea, too, which can be enjoyed in the spectacular grounds. It’s all super family friendly – little ones will love the special picnic hamper for ‘V.I.L.P’ (Very Important Little People). e L’Occitane garden spa – the rst and only in the UK – with a thrilling array of facials, massages and scrubs, adds a further touch of elegance. ere is also an indoor pool and sauna.
Doubles from £275
+44 (0)1225 331922; thebathpriory.co.uk
Fonthill Gi ord, Wiltshire
On the Fonthill Estate, the stylish yet immediately welcoming Beckford Arms combines country pub, restaurant and comforting place to stay in equal measure. Eat in the animated bar, elegant dining room, pretty conservatory or in the quiet sitting room, with its crackling log re, comfy antique chairs and tables piled with books. You eat well: pickled quails’ eggs and homemade sausage rolls at the bar, washed down with their own Beckford Phoenix ale, hearty but imaginative lunches and dinners as well as peerless breakfasts. You sleep well too: there are eight lovely bedrooms in the inn and two luxurious lodges in the rolling parkland – plus you can bed down in the magni cent Grade I-listed Fonthill Arch, at the entrance to the estate. Co-owners Dan Brod, Charlie Luxton and Matt Greenlees (Beckford Group have three other country pubs with rooms nearby), have thought of everything, from deeply comfortable beds to woolly hot-water bottles, pretty throws and all-natural, locally made Bramley products in the bathrooms. ere are now spa treatments too, with Bramley’s skincare range. Doubles from £115 +44 (0)1747 870385; beckfordarms.com
Original period features and contemporary design combine at this honey-hued Georgian hotel set on a 30-acre estate near Warminster. Among the vast grounds is an orchard, a no-dig kitchen garden which provides e Garden Grill restaurant with much of its produce (the menu is split into soil, sea, land, and re sections), and an 18th-century walled garden with a summerhouse. e River Wylye runs alongside too, perfect for trout shing and spotting elusive king shers. Rooms come with sweeping countryside views, specially commissioned artworks, and splashes of bold colour (in striped wallpaper say, or a mustard bedhead); some also have a hot tub on the terrace. Book a treatment in the spa after a dip in the heated indoor or outdoor pool, or a steam and sauna session. Sta can arrange all kinds of on-site activities, from a garden tour to gin tasting and clay pigeon shooting, while blockbuster attractions such as Longleat, Stourhead and Stonehenge are all within an hour’s drive. For special occasion private dining (up to eight guests), a three-course supper in a glass dome under the stars is a magical experience.
Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1985 804680; bishopstrowhotel.com
THE GEORGE INN
Norton St Philip, Somerset is historic 14th-century, Grade I-listed Tudor inn is set in the peaceful village of Norton St Philip, midway between Frome and Bath. Having recently undergone a full makeover and preservation project, e George combines beautiful decoration and furnishings with many original features and antiques from the inn’s fascinating past –something which was recognised with its latest award, Pub of the Year 2024. With a history dating back to 1397, it is one of Britain’s oldest taverns and has 13 charming ensuite bedrooms. On sunny days, make a beeline for the beer garden, which has views of the village and church. e inn is owned by the Butcombe Brewing Company (it’s worth checking out the Butcombe loyalty club for discounts and o ers) so expect a good selection of craft beer, real ale and cider. Chef Aimie Harley was voted Pub Chef of the Year 2024 and together with the team, focuses on seasonal, locally sourced produce and exciting takes on pub classics. A perfect base to explore the village, Bath and the Somerset surroundings. Doubles from £ 120 +44 (0)1373 834224; georgeinnnsp.co.uk
In 2014, hotelier Tim Holloway and his wife Edlyn Cunill decided to swap London for the peace and quiet of the New Forest, with happy results for anyone looking for an a ordable yet stylish rural trip. In the village of Sway, surrounded by open heath and woodland that’s ideal for walking, horse riding and cycling, they found e Manor, built in 1906. With the help of interior designer David Bentheim they’ve given the solid brick Edwardian house a stunning makeover, its 15 beautifully coloured bedrooms decorated with prints from John James Audubon’s Birds of America , an openplan restaurant and bar, and a sitting room that daringly pairs William Morris fruit wallpaper with lime green furnishings and black and white check carpets, to stunning e ect. e food, elegant, fresh and seasonal, from a constantly changing menu, is excellent (think harissa-spiced lamb rump, say, or pea risotto), as are the wines. Best of all, the hotel overlooks ve acres of sloping wooded grounds, surveyed from a splendid terrace that’s perfect for outdoor dining on a warm summer’s evening.
Doubles from £120 +44 (0)1590 682754; themanoratsway.com
Castle Combe, Chippenham
Set in the 12th-century Cotswolds village of Castle Combe, this honey-hued countryside manor o ers an idyllic escape – from the riverside drive to pretty Italian gardens, lawns and several inviting lounges, ideal for curling up with a book. Choose between traditional rooms in the manor house, a Cotswold mews cottage or one of the lavish suites dotted between the two, some with a hot tub, terrace or private garden. On the estate’s 365 acres, there’s an 18-hole par-72 championship golf course known for its tree-lined fairways, natural undulation and spectacular Wiltshire views. Meanwhile, e Castle Inn pub, in the heart of the village is the perfect spot for an afternoon pint (it also has two-AA Rosette dining). Grab a map from the hotel and borrow Le Chameau wellies from reception for a brisk walk to work up an appetite for supper in Michelin-starred restaurant Bybrook, where chef Robert Potter o ers modern British tasting menus. Before retiring for the night, don’t miss the hotel’s Time Bar, which has a choice of over 180 gins.
Doubles from £246 +44 (0)1249 782206; exclusive.co.uk/the-manor-house
Colerne, Wiltshire
At the head of a mile-long, double avenue of lime and beech trees dating back to 1827, Lucknam Park is in a league of its own. Surrounded by 500 acres of listed parkland, just outside the village of Colerne (and just six miles away from Bath), it occupies a mellow 17th-century mansion with gracious reception rooms and stylish bedrooms (antique furniture, marble bathrooms) in the house and former stables.
It’s impeccably run, with attentive yet discreet service. e magni cent drawing room and charming library are the place for pre-dinner drinks, before tucking into Hywel Jones’ exceptional Michelin-starred cooking in his eponymous formal restaurant (he has held his star for 20 consecutive years, and sources vegetables and micro-herbs from the on-site kitchen garden). Or choose the cool, contemporary Walled Garden Restaurant (a relatively new addition) with an open kitchen, which looks out onto beds planted with the palest pink peonies, Japanese maples and irises. e seasonal menu, for instance, might feature wild garlic and broad bean risotto or Wiltshire lamb with Jersey royals for spring.
en there’s the spa, which includes a sleek indoor and outdoor pool, sauna, salt room, eight treatment rooms for rejuvenating 111Skin massages and facials, and a social lounge with a skincare mixology bar. e impressive equestrian centre caters to all standards, from the pony mad to those interested in dressage.
For your own slice of the estate, book the chic cottages, ranging from one to four bedrooms, individually designed to give you the ultimate ve-star stay. ere’s also an arboretum for picnics, the front lawn for games of croquet and kite ying, and a pair of tennis courts. e roster of activities ranges from a seasonal garden tour to country pursuits such as clay pigeon shooting, falconry, archery and even duck herding. Meanwhile, the excellent facilities for children, including dedicated play areas, bicycles, and a football pitch, make Lucknam as great a choice for families as for romantic couples, friends and celebrations.
Doubles from £384, cottages from £1,200 +44 (0)1225 742777; lucknampark.co.uk
Pensford, Somerset is may be just one of several rural-themed PIG hotels, but its launch back in 2014 broke new ground for the Home Grown Hotels group: a proper, grown-up hotel that has all the country house attributes (space, proportions, dreamy views), but none of the drawbacks (staid, formal, eye-wateringly expensive). It’s fun and glamorous without ever losing sight of comfort. Once again Judy Hutson created the look: Belgian tiles, quirky wallpaper, velvet curtains, oil paintings and chandeliers, plus a wonderfully louche private dining room based on the Rolling Stones’ Beggars Banquet : ragamu ns feasting in a castle. As at all THE PIGs (except for the city-centred THE PIG-in-the-wall), the kitchen garden is the heartbeat of the hotel, with the gardeners and chefs working hand in hand to create plates brimming with seasonal avours. What they can’t grow on-site is sourced from the best local farmers, shermen and foragers, the foundation of their signature 25 Mile Menu. And keep an eye out for dishes avoured with honey from their very own hives – you can even pick up a jar to take home with you.
Doubles from £330 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com
Studland, Dorset
With its wacky profusion of turrets, gargoyles, stone casements and overlapping tiles on steep roofs, this enchanting 18th-century house will bring an instant smile to your face and memories of tales of Hansel and Gretel. As for the views?
You’ll be entranced – they’re particularly epic, especially looking across the sheepecked green elds and the sea to Old Harry Rocks. Built as a grand summer house, this Studland Bay delight is a muchloved seaside sibling in the droves of PIG hotels and it positively brims with charm. In addition to the usual conservatory restaurant (with signature 25 Mile Menu) and walled kitchen garden, there are quirkily di erent bedrooms. is includes two charming shepherd’s huts. Each has a bedroom and bathroom hut and a lounge hut with a sun deck, boasting the best views in the house. ere’s a buzzy outdoor bar with a woodred oven for sourdough pizzas, as well as a private dining room in a dreamy thatched hut on the lawn overlooking the cli s –perfect for gatherings of up to 12.
A thrilling, wildly popular hotel.
Doubles from £350 +44 (0)1929 450288; thepighotel.com
Ten UK and Ireland hotels where adventure is (near enough) on your doorstep. By Meera Dattani
Across 8,000 acres of woodland, elds and lake, Wilderness Reserve is a conservation and restoration project as much as anything else, where guests can stay in restored heritage properties from impressive manors to cosy retreats. And while you can disconnect if you wish, you can test your aim with a go at the increasingly popular axe-throwing – think of it as darts for the outdoors and pick up some trick shots – or try your hand at archery tag with the aim of ducking, diving and dodging the other team. Other activities include lake swimming, laser clay shooting, paddleboarding, and learning survival skills. For kids over six years old, treasure hunts, re lighting and archery await at the Adventure Camp, while you can accompany over-twos on a bear hunt before creating a den. wildernessreserve.com/home
I n the beautiful town of Ullswater in the Lake District, the modern Another Place hotel is a great base to explore the area with water adventures – naturally – one of the big attractions. You can learn to stand-up paddleboard (SUP), go kayaking, or try open-water swimming or wild swimming below a waterfall with Colin Hill, an English Channel solo swimmer and the rst UK Male Ice Mile swimmer (that means one mile in under 5 ° C with no wetsuit). And if you’re a t and experienced skier, the fell-tops around Raise make for good skiing – it’s a bit of a climb carrying the kit before reaching the button lift but there’s a cosy ski club members’ hut complete with England’s secondhighest ushing toilet. Nocturnal adventures include a full-moon night swim and stargazing. another.place/the-lake
Set among 2,000 acres of Wales’ Usk Valley, this ve-star hotel and 19th-century manor house is home to three championship golf courses, Forum Spa, six restaurants serving everything from gourmet steaks, contemporary Asian and Welsh-inspired food, and a range of rooms and suites with marble bathrooms. It’s also activity central. e treetop adventure is great for di erent abilities and fear factors: the high ropes course has no fewer than 30 obstacles, bridges and walkways ending with a zipline, while the low ropes course o ers the same amount of fun with lower dose of adrenaline just two metres o the ground. Guests can also choose activities such as clay pigeon shooting, archery (including for young kids) and axe-throwing. To enjoy the countryside and tranquillity in the Usk Valley, you can also go shing, mountain biking and walking from Celtic Manor. celtic-manor.com
If you’re an experienced rider, you can saddle up for a couple of days at Bovey Castle with their three-night Saddle, Spa and Castle horse-riding experience – it’s a great way to explore Dartmoor and you can either book three nights’ livery for your own horse or hire horses through Liberty Trails. rough the guided tours, you’ll learn about the area’s habitats, wildlife (Dartmoor is known for its ponies) and history as you ride across this remote, spectacular landscape of rocky tors, rivers and standing stones. Accommodation is in luxury Castle Rooms and other activities at Bovey Castle include falconry, clay pigeon shooting, laser clays, bushcraft and golf. boveycastle.com
Adventure is in the DNA at Lundies House. In the village of Tongue overlooking the Kyle of Tongue and mountains, this is hill-walking heaven, including Scotland’s most northerly Munro, Ben Hope. You can take e-bikes along the coast, and the hotel can suggest the best wild swimming spots (wetsuits available). e area is also ideal for sur ng, there’s paddleboarding and coasteering nearby, and a wild dipping pool and morning yoga on-site. Rooms and studios are more like sanctuaries, food is locally sourced, and Scandi-Scottish-inspired interiors add calm and colour throughout the 19th-century stone house; part of the WildLand family, Lundies is committed to rewilding and conserving the Scottish Highlands. lundies.scot
is 18-room boutique Victorian terrace hotel on Portrush’s Ramore Head peninsula packs an almighty punch on this spectacular coastline. Gorgeous interiors mix colour, Art Deco vibes and old-school elegance in the rooms, bar and restaurant, but outside, natural treats are in store. Hire an e-bike from the hotel and pedal the coastal road to the Giant’s Causeway and seaside villages such as Portstewart and Ballintoy, or book a guided coastal tour on Revive NI’s stand-up paddleboard journey to nd out more about the area. You can also go coasteering, abseiling, canoeing, hiking, rock-climbing and cave diving; there’s no shortage of adrenalin-fuelled options with Portrush as your base. e hotel has also launched its rst wellness events, incorporating hiking and cold water swimming. elephantrockhotel.co.uk
With a mix of cosy rooms, luxury suites, cabins and lodges, this spa hotel and resort caters for a variety of guests across its 900-acre estate. ere’s so much adventure, there’s an actual timetable, with activities from high ropes, ziplines and woodland combat (‘paintball without the pain,’ as they call it) to quad-biking, all-terrain EZ raiders and alpaca trekking. ere’s plenty of cycling trails for di erent abilities, and walkers will love hiking parts of the 96-mile West Highland Way. Crie Hydro has also curated its own walks, categorised into Lovable Locals (easy), Wandering Warriors (medium) and Hiking Heroes (hard). crie hydro.com
S et in 130 acres of Hampshire countryside, the 18th-century Chewton Glen is country sport central. ink clay pigeon shooting, ri e shooting, archery and (of course) axe throwing, or book a falconry experience for an insight into the behaviours and history of these remarkable birds of prey. ere are also some 140 miles of gravel tracks through the woodland, perfect for con dent mountain bikers (or you can hire e-bikes for a slightly easier ride) plus beautiful forest hikes; you might see wild ponies and free-roaming pigs. Kids aren’t excluded from adventure; there’s sheep walking around the orchard and an activity hamper, which o ers 25 experiences from ying a kite and activity eye-spy to card-making and growing a plant, depending on the season. chewtonglen.com
For over 800 years, Ashford Castle – former home of the Guinness family and now an 83-room luxury hotel – has stood on the shores of Lough Corrib in western Ireland. Beyond ne dining, a spa, cinema and gorgeous grounds, the 350-acre Ashford Estate is an adventure playground with nature walks, golf, tennis and cycling on your doorstep. Country sports are particularly popular: think shing, falconry, shooting and horse-riding. For something di erent, explore Lough Corrib with marine guide Frank Costello. He’s lived by the lake all his life and takes guests out on a traditional, handcrafted (by Frank) wooden boat – you can incorporate a shing trip, too. Alternatively, there’s kayaking and lake cruising with family-run Corrib Cruises from Ashford Castle Pier, near the castle’s front door. ashfordcastle.com
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Inside, it’s all Art Deco touches, glam vibes, and ne dining, but urban adventures are a stroll away from the MO Hyde Park. If you fancy riding, you can arrange a mount with Hyde Park Stables (on one of central London’s last remaining mews with horses) and trot along Rotten Row, which used to be known as ‘ e King’s Old Road’, and around the Serpentine lake. For a sky-high ‘high’, you can book a 30-minute helicopter ride over the capital, soaring along the River ames for aerial views of London’s streets and landmarks such as Big Ben, London Eye, Buckingham Palace and Houses of Parliament. Or keep both feet on the ground and head out of the city for a vineyard tour at the family-run and owned Rath nny Wine Estate in East Sussex, for a taste of English sparkling wine. mandarinoriental.com n
Wareham, Dorset
Bath, Somerset
Nestled in the heart of historic Bath, e Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa is a sanctuary of elegance and re nement, set within John Wood the Younger’s iconic Georgian terrace. is ve-star retreat o ers impeccable service, warm hospitality and meticulous attention to detail. Most of the 45 rooms and suites boast captivating views, whether overlooking the hotel’s herbaceous gardens or the Royal Crescent’s grand lawn. Montagu’s Mews o ers carefully curated menus by head chef Martin Blake, from a quintessential afternoon tea to indulgent four- and six-course tasting dinner menus, alongside a relaxed all-day dining selection to suit every mood and taste. e glamorous bar tempts with expertly crafted cocktails, while the heated outdoor terrace, set against the backdrop of a secluded acre of glorious gardens, provides a charming spot to unwind. For ultimate relaxation, e Spa & Bath House o ers a haven of tranquility, featuring a relaxation pool, sauna, steam room, and a luxurious menu of GROUND wellbeing spa rituals designed to leave you feeling refreshed, restored and rebalanced.
Doubles from £410
+44 (0)1225 823333; royalcrescent.co.uk
e setting of this former monastery and Grade II-listed country house hotel, surrounded by four acres of English cottage gardens on the bank of the River Frome, is sublime. e history of the building, which dates to 809, is evident in each of the 17 charming rooms, many of which have original wooden beams (some have views of the Purbeck Hills, others overlook the gardens or inner courtyard). Choose between staying in the main house or the all-suite Boat House right by the water’s edge, with its vaulted ceilings, antiques and four-poster beds. Start the evening with an aperitif in the Drawing Room, the Cloisters Bar or, in the summer, on the terrace, before sitting down to try head chef Stephan Guinebault’s three-course dinner menu in the Garden Room restaurant (you can also book in for lunch from Tuesday to Sunday). e peaceful gardens are ideal for drinking morning co ee while reading the newspapers or afternoon tea, after a day exploring the Dorset coastline. e hotel is in the market town of Wareham, with gorgeous Studland Bay and Lulworth Cove both a short drive away.
Doubles from £180, room only +44 (0)1929 551666; priorywareham.co.uk
First of all: where is it? I would head back to Cornwall for the weekend, to a place called Restronguet Creek on the Carrick Roads, where I rst learned to sail.
Solo trip? It would be with my wife, Georgie, and the kids. It’s a Swallows and Amazons location, with plenty of adventure for the little ones to enjoy.
Big or small hotel? There are so many great places to stay in Cornwall. We would go for The Idle Rocks hotel in St Mawes, which is owned by some great friends David and Karen Richards.
How do you like your eggs? Poached, medium, with bacon on the side.
And your coffee? Long black.
How do you like to discover a place you’re staying in? I know Cornwall like the back of my hand from years of exploring as a youngster, – but each time we visit, I still nd places I didn’t know existed. It really is a magical part of the world.
Does your ideal Saturday night away involve dancing? I’m afraid I’ll never make the Strictly Come Dancing nal – I leave the dancing to my daughter, Bellatrix.
What’s your cocktail order? Amaretto sour. Will you be cooking? Georgie and I try to cook together on these trips – at least I try, but mostly just get in the way – as it’s a nice way to spend quality time together.
What outfit do you need for this weekend? Depends on the time of year, but with British weather, you need to pack everything! If you go for a walk, where will you go? We would head over to the Helford River; my parents used to live in Manaccan. e coastal paths are stunning and there are plenty of great local pubs to stop for a quick pint or bite to eat. Will you be doing any exercise? Yes, I like to run ve to ten kilometres a day generally, and there’s no excuse when on holiday – there are some wonderful trails to explore in the area.
What are you reading? I have yet to read Boris Johnson’s book Unleashed. I’m sure it will be an interesting and entertaining read. What are you watching? I don’t get to watch much nowadays, but it could be an opportunity to binge on Drive to Survive on Net ix. Is there anything else that would make a weekend perfect for you? A great sleep. After three years of development, my wife Georgie and I have recently launched Ainslie + Ainslie Performance Powders. I use NIGHT POWDER each evening to aid my rest and recovery.
As 2025 sees the 250th anniversary of Jane Austen’s birth, Hampshire is alive with celebration, while the Isle of Wight offers an easy and delightful offshore break
Brockenhurst, Hampshire
When life’s cares start to pile up, escape to this New Forest bolthole for a weekend of spoiling and relaxation – it’ll be just the ticket. e spa hotel occupies a striking redbrick Victorian manor in neat gardens on the outskirts of Brockenhurst and is the sister hotel of e Montagu Arms (see page 59). e reception room has oak-panelled walls and an open re to welcome you in. Seventy-seven large, comfortable bedrooms combine modern amenities with traditional country house style. Some have four-poster beds and others their own patio – ideal for soaking up the sun alongside your morning co ee. But what really makes Careys Manor stand out is its award-winning SenSpa, where you will be pampered with a mindboggling range of treatments, from a traditional ai massage to a gentle mud wrap to a thorough detox. As for food, there are three great options: Cambium, re ned yet relaxing and celebrating all that is best about New Forest produce; Zen Garden, serving delicious, authentic ai food; and informal French bar and bistro, Le Blaireau. Doubles from £200 +44 (0)1590 624467; careysmanor.com
New Forest, Hampshire
Set in 130 acres of Hampshire countryside, on the edge of the New Forest and a few minutes from the coast, Chewton Glen delivers the de nitive ve-star country house hotel experience throughout the year. Choose from a variety of quintessentially English guestrooms and luxurious suites or spend the night among the trees, immersed in nature, in your very own secluded Treehouse Suite on stilts (they even come with al fresco hot tubs). Savour delectable cuisine (twicebaked cheese sou é say, or Wiltshire venison loin) and afternoon tea, or enjoy a relaxed meal at e Kitchen, an exciting restaurant overseen by chef James Martin. Want to improve your culinary skills? ere’s also a cookery school o ering lessons from the chef himself. Within the estate, you can enjoy all kinds of family-friendly activities: there’s a nine-hole golf course, tennis courts and a croquet lawn. Or simply unwind in the fabulous indoor and outdoor pools and the indulgent, award-winning spa – there’s something to satisfy everyone. Service is e ortless too. Without doubt, this is one of the country’s nest hotels. Doubles from £500 +44 (0)1425 282212; chewtonglen.com
Hook, Hampshire
Like the water lilies on its two lakes that unfurl in the afternoon sun, this country-house hotel has elegantly blossomed into life. You can swim wild, picnic in the woods and wander around the hotel’s own certi ed biodynamic market garden and organic farm. Inside, there’s a sense of warmth and homeliness, with lime plaster walls in natural colours, linens, English oak oors, handcrafted furniture and matting woven from sweet-smelling River Ouse rush. Heck eld Place, once home to Charles Shaw Lefevre, who was Speaker of the House of Commons in the 19th century, is artistic ( ne 20th-century English pictures from the owner’s private collection), literary (a library of interesting books in the Morning Room and bedrooms) and entertaining ( e Assembly is a curated programme of lms and events). ere’s also e Bothy by Wildsmith, the 17,000 sq/ ft home of wellbeing, and the delicious cooking of celebrated chef Skye Gyngell at the Green Michelin-starred Marle and open- red Hearth restaurants, where you can taste fresh and seasonal estate grown ingredients. As for the bedrooms, they are simply lovely and include six distinctive and original room types.
Doubles from £650 +44 (0)1189 326868; heck eldplace.com
Dogmers eld, Hampshire
It’s hard to believe you’re only an hour from London at the Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire, which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. Set amid 500 acres of the Dogmers eld Park Estate, you can watch the hotel’s horses frolicking in paddocks from the sophisticated bedrooms. It’s easy to lose yourself in the grounds, playing croquet, shing or cycling, while children can be kept busy at the Kids’ Club or the hotel’s family adventure pool, Sharkie’s Reef, complete with a four-metre slide. Located in the Manor House’s original 18th-century stable block, the large, lightlled spa, 20m adult pool and outdoor vitality pool all feel far removed from the modern-day stresses of everyday life. Service is exemplary, and the food is everything you would expect. Wild Carrot makes the perfect setting for memorable seasonal meals while Italian La Terrazza has a traditional pizza oven and countryside views. For a quintessential afternoon tea, head for the Drawing Room. Sunday lunch is a highlight, featuring entirely local produce from the heart of Hampshire.
Doubles from £595 +44 (0)1252 853000; fourseasons.com/hampshire
Lyndhurst, Hampshire
It’s all about attention to detail at this sumptuous New Forest hideaway. Oak doors are thick, paint nishes fresh and oor lights switch on as you walk into the bathroom from your quietly opulent, individually decorated bedroom (there are 33, in the main house and throughout the grounds). In the Herb House Spa, just-added Ayurvedic treatments sit alongside bespoke therapies from brands such as Bamford and Ground Wellbeing. Enjoy yoga on the rooftop herb garden, take in forest views from the sauna and eat nourishing food in Raw & Cured. Inspired by nature, there’s ‘Re-root at Lime Wood’, a series of retreats, events and workshops, or head out with their new resident forager for a guided forest walk, including delicious foraged feasting. Lime Wood is also home to Hartnett Holder & Co, the bril liant restaurant partnership between Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder which serves Italian-in uenced dishes in gorgeous surroundings. e glamour is there, but the sti ness of formal dining has been swept away. It’s how we want to live today, and Lime Wood perfectly captures the laid-back luxury mood.
Doubles from £495 +44 (0)2380 287177; limewoodhotel.co.uk
Sparsholt, Hampshire is gorgeous Georgian redbrick house sits in 63 acres of countryside, yet is only minutes from Winchester. e big attraction is the two restaurants. First, e Avenue, named after the mile-long stretch of lime trees leading up to the house, where BBC MasterChef: e Professionals champion Tom Hamblet oversees the team. For a front-row seat while tucking into the tasting menu, book the Chef’s Table in the kitchen. en there’s e Wellhouse, in the original wellhouse (where else?), where every dish is cooked over ames: think small plates and sharing mains such as Tuscan grilled steak or sh of the day. Season cookery school o ers classes such as stock and sauces, and knife skills, or outdoor sessions with Big Green Egg barbecues and Gozney pizza ovens. Join a kitchen garden tour (March to November) to learn more about growing your own, have afternoon tea on the terrace or relax in the Cedar Bar after exploring local walking trails or y shing in the Test Valley. At the end of the day, retire to a traditional room or suite, many with avenue views or a hot tub.
Doubles from £260 +44 (0)1962 776088; exclusive.co.uk/lainston-house
Beaulieu, Hampshire
Combining all the attributes of a traditional country house hotel – roaring log res, oak panelling, pretty gardens and comfortable bedrooms – with a picturesque village setting, e Montagu Arms makes an ideal base for a break. Browse Beaulieu’s pretty high street, take a riverside walk to Buckler’s Hard or explore the New Forest National Park. Back at the hotel you’ll nd a dark oak hall that contrasts with the bright, cream-panelled sitting room, leading in turn to a sunny conservatory. ere are 33 bedrooms that stay true to the hotel’s heritage while enjoying contemporary colour schemes and designer fabrics. e extensive House Menu can be enjoyed wherever you feel most comfortable – whether that’s with the family at country pub Monty’s, alfresco in the ower- lled garden or in the smart dining room, e Terrace. e best produce, both from the New Forest and home-grown at the hotel, is used to create modern, re ned cuisine that takes local provenance seriously. Dishes are familiar foodie favourites, but always with a taste of the unexpected. Both children and dogs are welcome, making it a great choice for families.
Doubles from £ 200
+44 (0)1590 612324; montaguarmshotel.co.uk
Brockenhurst, Hampshire
Many hotels boast kitchen gardens, but few are as central to operations as that of THE PIG in the New Forest. Here, the garden is an imaginative edible paradise from which the chefs source much of their daily produce, the rest coming from within a 25-mile radius. is local and seasonal food-centric ideal is the inspiration for the original concept of THE PIG and its subsequent litter of hotels in the Home Grown Hotels sty, founded by British hotelier Robin Hutson in 2011. Here at Brockenhurst, the hotel, which is in its 14th year, is located in a handsome Georgian shooting lodge that stands in a clearing in the New Forest, with walking, foraging and spa treatments on o er. ere’s a wonderful Victorian-style conservatory dining room, glamorous bar and outdoor courtyard. Calm, countri ed and deeply comfortable, the hotel’s seductive shabby chic aesthetic comes in a palette of soft greens and chalky greys. Bedrooms include rustic, romantic lodges tucked away in the woods. e walled garden leads to a lovely lily pond and wooden potting shed treatment room. Oh, and there really are pigs, too.
Doubles from £345 +44 (0)1590 622354; thepighotel.com
If THE PIG in the New Forest is the country house, then this is its town cousin, just 20 minutes away in Southampton. Charmingly embraced by the city’s Medieval defensive walls, it’s gorgeous, a ordable and makes a great choice for a hassle-free short break, easily reached by train from London. Hole up in one of its faultlessly chic bedrooms with their retro radios, telephones and alarm clocks, rain showers and roll-top baths, superb beds, well-stocked fridge ‘larders’, bare oorboards, painted wood ceilings and pretty fabrics. In the morning, linger over pastries, cold meats, and boilyour-own eggs, and peruse the morning papers in the Edwardian country style kitchen-cum-parlour. For lunch, graze from the inviting deli counter, which acts as the reception, too. Later you can do some serious damage in the Westquay shopping centre in Southampton (if you dare) and then, at cocktail hour, head back to e Wall for a delicious dinner of freshly-prepared salads, hearty plates (such as Pie of the Day) and sweet treats, where you’ll be as happy as pigs in – er – manure.
Doubles from £145 +44 (0)2380 636900; thepighotel.com
Baughurst, Hampshire
ere’s something pretty special about e Welly. ought to have originated as the Duke of Wellington’s hunting lodge on the edge of his Strat eld Saye estate, it’s now a real foodies’ pub, owned and run with great charm by Simon Page (front of house) and Jason King (award-winning chef). Set in countryside on the Hampshire/Berkshire border, it has a proli c kitchen garden and a eld where hens, bees, sheep, geese and pigs are kept. e dining room – there are just 12 highly prized tables – is delightfully informal. Jason uses homegrown ingredients in most of his carefully prepared, country-style dishes. ere are four bedrooms: the Apartment is a one-bedroom suite above the pub; there are two striking guest rooms tucked away in a converted 17th-century oak-framed, brick and timber hay store; and the Cart House is a green oak barn. ey have all the extras, from rain showers with Aesop products to Nespresso co ee machines and excellent beds dressed in top quality linen. Breakfast is a feast, with eggs straight from their hens and divine tea cosies knitted by Simon’s mum. Who could ask for more?
Doubles from £140 +44 (0)118 982 0110; thewellingtonarms.com
From vineyards and funfairs to chalk cliffs and grand cathedrals, these six distinctive counties offer a wealth of unforgettable experiences, flavours and sights to savour
South Leigh, Oxfordshire
When it opened in 2017 this was a new departure for the burgeoning Artist Residence group of eccentric, art-led hotels that have sprung up courtesy of enterprising owners, Justin and Charlie Salisbury. is energetic couple, complete with a new baby, headed out of town to leafy Oxfordshire and took on the Mason Arms, a well-loved local inn in South Leigh, stamping it with their inimitable sense of style. ere are now 15 rooms in total, split between the main farmhouse, stables and outbuildings, plus a cool shepherd’s hut in the garden. Original features have been retained and restored, auction houses and reclamation yards scoured and modern art set against William Morris wallpaper. e restaurant features art by e Connor Brothers, Ben Eine and Lucy Sparrow, while the kitchen produces seasonal food that pays homage to the local area, served in a fun and friendly setting. ere’s also a sun-trap terrace garden for warm days. If you’ve fallen for an Artist Residence in Penzance, Pimlico, Bristol or Brighton, then this cosy Oxfordshire escape is your next country hideaway.
Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1993 656220; artistresidence.co.uk
Climping, West Sussex
A short stroll from the coast at Climping (about halfway between Arundel and Chichester), Baili scourt is a gorgeous medieval-style house created by Walter Guinness, later Lord Moyne, and his wife Evelyn. It’s now a hotel with 39 bedrooms of all styles, spread throughout numerous charming houses and cottages in parkland. e more contemporary in style, in the Moat House and e Oaks, stand beside the old moat, overlooking the elds beyond. e more traditional – some with four-posters – and the series of interconnecting sitting rooms, stu ed with tapestries, oak chests and Knole sofas, all feel charmingly authentic. Lawns are dotted with more medieval-style outbuildings, owers, shrubs and peacocks, and there’s an airy spa, with indoor and outdoor pools. e charming courtyard and rose garden are the ideal spots for sipping wine, produced by a local Sussex vineyard, or for afternoon tea in the sunshine. e name Baili scourt recalls the monk who was sent over by the Abbess of Séez in Normandy to act as baili and watch over the 13th-century chapel, which still stands in the grounds today. Doubles from £325 +44 (0)1903 723511; hshotels.co.uk
West Hoathly, West Sussex
A spell at e Cat will leave you purring with delight. With its regulars chatting at the bar, its blazing re in the huge inglenook replace, its hops, pewter and mix of airy and cosy dining areas, this early 16th-century, timber-framed village inn exudes character and bonhomie. is is one of Britain’s greatest gastropubs, and its landlord Andrew Russell, previously general manager at nearby Gravetye Manor, mixes professionalism with a natural air for people. As for the food from chef Suphi Ergin, there’s no trumpeting and no fuss and, as a result, its superb quality is all the more delightful. ‘I recommend the pie and chips,’ says Andrew. And what a steak, mushroom and ale pie it is. Leave space for a homemade pud, too – perhaps dark chocolate tart or apple, pear and blackberry nut crumble. Upstairs there are four attractive, luxurious, well-equipped bedrooms, one very large, another with a view of the pretty church. In the morning, after a sophisticated breakfast worthy of Gravetye, follow the path through the churchyard for a spectacular view across the valley or spend the day visiting the many beautiful gardens and vineyards nearby.
Doubles from £ 180 +44 (0)1342 810369; catinn.co.uk
Leatherhead, Surrey
Beaverbrook is a magni cent, must-visit country house hotel. We’ve been, we’ve seen, we’ve stayed, we’ve played, and it’s fabulous. e former mansion of Lord Beaverbrook has weekenders falling over themselves to revel in the 19th-century architecture and Susie Atkinson interiors: grand yet homely, romantic and fun – and underpinned by historical photographs of the newspaper magnate. ere’s Japanese cuisine in e Dining Room, stunning views of formal gardens, a 470-acre woodland estate with a treehouse and kids’ club. Boasting 56 rooms across the hotel, the separate brick and int Garden House, with interiors by Nicola Harding, o ers a bar, Anglo-Italian restaurant and 11 bedrooms. e Coach House Suites are perfect for families, as is e Village, a cluster of suites on the site of the original workers’ cottages with their own Mrs Beeton’s Restaurant, a few minutes’ buggy ride from the main house. Don’t miss the Coach House Health Club & Spa, which o ers an array of transformative wellness experiences and both indoor and outdoor pools. All this so close to London, in the heart of the Surrey Hills.
Doubles from £534 +44 (0)1372 571300; beaverbrook.co.uk
Taplow, Berkshire
Built for the second Duke of Buckingham’s mistress in 1666, Cliveden House is a renowned English country estate famed as a ve-star setting for lavish entertaining and scandal. Standing in 376 acres of magni cent gardens and parkland (now owned by the National Trust), the hotel has 47 spacious rooms and suites in the elegant main house. Elsewhere, there’s Spring Cottage, a summerhouse on the banks of the River ames, which o ers guests the ultimate in luxurious privacy and escapism. e property has two outstanding restaurants: the opulent chandeliered Cliveden Dining Room, which is complemented by the relaxed informality of e Astor Grill. A luxurious spa, open to members and hotel guests is the spot for relaxation; unwind by the indoor pool before wandering into the garden where you will nd the Profumo pool – the last remaining listed outdoor pool in England. Cliveden is imbued with a palpable sense of history, for this is a house that, for over 350 years, has been dedicated to the pursuit of pleasure, power and politics.
Doubles from £635 +44 (0)1628 668561; clivedenhouse.co.uk
West Hoathly, West Sussex
It was just over 60 years ago, in 1958, when Peter Herbert opened this Elizabethan manor and its famous gardens as a hotel. A classic of its kind, it’s now in the caring hands of Jeremy and Elizabeth Hosking, who have kept its integrity intact while beautifully renovating and subtly modernising it. Today’s furnishings look elegant, fresh and attractive, but the feel remains the same: the unhurried calm, the polite but chatty sta , the profusion of naturally arranged owers, and the smell of linseed oil and wood smoke from great open hearths. Paul Skinner is the consummate general manager, while George Blogg’s Michelin-starred food, served in the stunning, glass-fronted dining room, is an accomplished delight. Best of all, the 35-acre gardens – which were originally created by visionary gardener William Robinson, in 1885, and are now considered some of the most historically important in England – have been restored to their former glory, thanks to a dedicated team headed by Tom Coward. ey are quite wonderful and transform an aperitif on the terrace into an unforgettable treat. Doubles from £450 +44 (0)1342 810567; gravetyemanor.co.uk
Newbury, Berkshire
Nestled in the foothills of Speen in West Berkshire, the 17th-century pub e Hare & Hounds has rede ned the modern day coaching inn as we know it today. e 30 individual bedrooms, some with gorgeous copper bath tubs, are housed in four stylish buildings ( e Stables, e Paddocks, e Hunter’s Lodge and e Coach House). Each, complete with racing themed fabric, is packed with all the charm and character of a traditional coaching inn yet brought bang up to date with a contemporary twist. Settle down beside a re in the barn dining room or in the garden for traditional afternoon tea, or choose from the menu of farm-to-table cuisine and impressive list of cocktails, craft beers and hand-picked wines. A stone’s throw from Newbury Racecourse, it’s the type of place that suits everyone – be it for a fun- lled weekend, romantic escape or just passing through. Dogs are welcomed with open arms and the Sunday roast is not to be missed with the enticing o er of bottomless roasties and Yorkshire puddings. Other nearby attractions include Highclere Castle, the Bombay Sapphire Distillery and e Watermill eatre.
Doubles from £125
+44 (0)1635 521152; hareandhoundsnewbury.co.uk
Vale of Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire
One of the great pleasures of visiting hotels is that they’re often very special buildings to which you’d never normally have access. One shining example is Hartwell House, a Grade I-listed stately home that was occupied from 1809 to 1814 by the exiled Louis XVIII. Inside, there are beautiful rooms with antique furniture and paintings. e Morning Room, for example, is a masterpiece of English design by Henry Keene, virtually unchanged since its completion in 1740, with a stunning Rococo ceiling by omas Roberts of Oxford. ere’s also an extraordinary Jacobean staircase, lined with statues of the knights of Europe, leading from the Great Hall. If you think all this grandeur means pomp and ceremony, worry not. As with fellow National Trust Historic House Hotels, Bodysgallen Hall (p122) and Middlethorpe Hall (p116), the hospitality is natural and attentive, the bedrooms as comfortable as they are grand, and the food as delicious as you would expect.
An afternoon tea is served daily in the magni cent drawing rooms. And the hotel’s spa is a classically themed delight.
Doubles from £392 +44 (0)1296 747444; hartwell-house.com
East Ashling, West Sussex
e Horse & Groom is renowned for its delicious food, served in the dining room which has a backdrop of mid 20th-century paintings, a handcrafted oak oor, and interesting collections of Italian sardine pots and vintage gardening books. is centuries-old former blacksmith’s shop turned public house was restored by John Ayton and his wife Annoushka Ducas. ere are ten cosy rooms, all with traditional oak furniture, exposed wooden beams and a palette of soft, calming hues and original artwork from the owners’ collection. Guests can polish o dishes such as Calcot Farm 40-day air-dried steaks or a Sunday roast with all the trimmings. e locals’ bar, with its stone oors, pine tables and welcoming re, o ers superb beers on tap, including Hip Hop, a hoppy ale from Langham Brewers of Petworth. Located in East Ashling, four miles west of Chichester on the edge of the South Downs National Park. e Horse & Groom is very popular with walkers and those attending local highlights such as Qatar Goodwood Festival, Goodwood Revival, Chichester Festival eatre or Pallant House. Doubles from £ 125 +44 (0)1243 575339; thehorseandgroom.pub
Great Milton, Oxfordshire Winner of the inaugural C&TH x Polestar’s UK & Irish Sustainable Hotel of the Year Awards in 2023, this is one of the best-known manor house hotels in the country – and for good reason. With the unequivocal gastronomic vision of Chef Patron Raymond Blanc OBE, the restaurant here received two Michelin stars in the rst year of opening, in 1984, and has held them ever since. More recently, a Green Michelin Star has been added, acknowledging the seasonality, foraging and no-waste approach which are integral to the dining experience. e good news is that guests staying overnight are guaranteed a table for dinner where both a tasting menu and an à la carte option are available. Afterwards, retire to one of the 32 individually designed rooms and suites, each drawing inspiration from Blanc’s travels. Stroll through manicured gardens to magni cent orchards, ponds and sculptures, or book into classes at e Raymond Blanc Cookery and Gardening Schools. ‘Everyone aspires to one moment of luxury: here is the place to have it,’ says Blanc. We couldn’t agree more. Doubles from £955 +44 (0)1844 278881; belmond.com/lemanoir
Goldalming, Surrey
Set within the pretty village of Hambledon in the Surrey Hills, this historic pub was given a new lease of life at the end of 2023, when it was taken over by a dream team of Alex Winch and Sam Fiddian-Green – best known as owners of successful restaurant Hilltop Kitchen, near Godalming. Alex was previously a sommelier for Como Hotels, as well as manager of Portland Restaurant in London’s Fitzrovia, while Sam has worked as a pastry chef in a two Michelin-starred restaurant in Denmark and, closer to home, with revered chef Sally Clarke. Expect farmto-fork dining centred around local and seasonal produce, including from their own farm, and a daily changing menu inspired by great British classics. e bar serves awardwinning ales, innovative cocktails and has a carefully curated wine list celebrating English wineries alongside quintessential regions from around the world. ere are also 15 rooms: four on the rst oor of the inn, with ancient oak beams and contemporary furnishings; six garden rooms adjacent to the large pub garden; and ve new shepherd’s huts.
Doubles from £140 +44 (0)1428 682883; merryharriers.com
Cuck eld, West Sussex
You get the best of both worlds at Ockenden. If you prefer reassuring, traditional comfort, look no further than this charming Elizabethan manor house. If you want slick, sophisticated modernity, that’s yours, too. As well as the elegant drawing room, there’s an oak-panelled bar (where the wine list boasts over 40 English wines, many produced by local vineyards), the Burrell Room for private dining, with its original Tudor ceiling, and an airy restaurant where Stephen Crane serves some of the nest food in Sussex. ere are 27 bedrooms, full of character; some with original panelling and four-posters, others fresh and pretty. And then there’s the spa, utterly modern on the outside, airy and natural inside, with an indoor-outdoor pool, hot tub, Jacuzzi, walkthrough rain shower, steam room, sauna, gym, sun deck and guest lounge. As for the six knockout rst- oor spa suites – they pack a thoroughly contemporary punch, with shutters in the bathrooms that open onto the bedrooms, which in turn open onto a roof garden with marvellous views across to the South Downs.
Doubles from £245 +44 (0)1444 416111; hshotels.co.uk
Bagshot, Surrey
One of Surrey’s top spa hotels, this 19th-century ivy-clad mansion house is surrounded by 120 acres of parkland. Perhaps start the day with a dip – choosing between the outdoor hydrotherapy pool with massage jets, a revitalising cold-water plunge or the indoor pool, complete with underwater music for a moment of zen. Make time for a thermal circuit in the vast spa which has an array of hot tubs, saunas, steams, laconiums and a tepidarium, alongside training programmes and treatments. When it’s time to eat, there are two destinations to choose from: informal farm-to-fork Hill eld where the ingredients are sourced locally and from the Pennyhill Park estate, and chef Steve Smith’s ne-dining Michelin-starred Latymer, set in the oldest and most charming part of the house, with woodpanelling, plush interiors and several tasting menus, ranging from four to six courses. Rooms and suites are classically elegant, all individually designed, and many with standout features such as a double bath, four-poster bed or private terrace – there are even ones with a horizonal shower and eight-man Jacuzzi.
Doubles from £321 +44 (0)1276 478300; exclusive.co.uk/pennyhill-park
Canterbury, Kent
Every PIG hotel in this magni cent litter has its very own personality. Bridge Place on the leafy outskirts of Canterbury has a rock’n’roll vibe that’s immediately evident. e 29-bedroom, Grade II*-listed Queen Anne manor house is set in the Nailbourne valley, part of the Kent Downs. It sports a handsome red-brick façade and ornate Jacobean interior, while also containing a colourful recent past. e likes of Eric Clapton and Pink Floyd have gigged and partied here, and now it’s your turn to have a ball, amid a wealth of period features, secret stairways, panelled rooms and endless nooks and crannies, all brought to life by THE PIG’s now-retired founder Robin Hutson and his renowned designer wife Judy, with her eye for e ortless, laidback chic. As with every other PIG, the kitchen garden and restaurant are the beating heart of this revitalised property. If you’ve pigged out on the others, this delightful locale (just 56 minutes by train from central London) should be next on your list: you’ll be seduced, charmed and ready to party, all at the same time.
Doubles from £225 +44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com
Madehurst, West Sussex
Set within the small hamlet of Madehurst, THE PIG, high up on the South Downs in West Sussex, threw open its doors in September 2021 – complete with its own vineyard. e team has done it again, creating a haven of rural bliss for their seventh hotel. Only four miles from Arundel and a short drive to the yachting playground of Chichester, it’s a brilliant base for exploring – but also great for hunkering down. e 30 gorgeous bedrooms are spread out between a higgledy-piggledy collection of traditional brick, int and timber clad stable yard buildings, together with Field and Garden Wagons. Each is unique and classically PIG – think indulgent fabrics, reclaimed wood, roll-top baths and locally stocked larders full of goodies. e wagons, tucked away in the walled garden or in the elds, are super cosy, complete with log burners. e food, with its 25 Mile Menu, is, as ever, terri c. It’s simple British food done well with a focus on local and homegrown produce – plus there’s a wide-ranging wine list and large kitchen garden.
Doubles from £330 +44 (0)1234 974500; thepighotel.com
Lower Beeding, Sussex
If you’re looking to switch o , then South Lodge is for you. e big news at this longestablished country hotel is last year’s addition of e Reeds; eight contemporary, doubleheight wood-clad lakeside and spa lodges in nature. e former can host four adults, with a deck cantilevered over the edge of a wild swimming lake; the latter is perfect for two, with a dining space and an infrared halotherapy sauna. Both come with a kitchenette, lounge and an outdoor copper tub, as well as extended spa access. e spa has an indoor in nity pool, sunken hydrotherapy pool, wild swimming pool and thermal suite. Not to mention a range of enriching spa treatments – some including extracts from the hotel’s own vineyard – and the Ridgeview beauty bar. It’s also home to a zero-waste, dairy-free restaurant, Botanica, with Mediterranean-inspired, nutritious all-day dining. Other options include Camellia, a three-AA Rosette restaurant using justpicked produce from the estate and e Pass, a Michelin-star restaurant headed up by chef Ben Wilkinson, with a seasonal seven-course tasting menu. Rooms or suites are individually designed, many with South Downs views. Doubles from £308 +44 (0)1403 891711, exclusive.co.uk/south-lodge
First of all: where is it? e Scottish Highlands.
Solo trip? If not, who are you bringing? Much as I’d love to ditch the kids and just go with my wife, I don’t think we’d get away with it and it’s usually all the more special when it’s the four of us.
Big or small hotel? I’m imagining a cosy, beautifully appointed cabin with its own wild swimming lake, hot tub, and sauna – and an incredible pub nearby.
How do you like your eggs? I think there’s a lot to be said for a perfectly puffy, crisp-edged fried egg, accessorised with crispy sage and brown butter like they do at Towpath on Regent’s Canal in Hackney.
And your coffee? A strong americano with some steamed oat milk. How do you like to discover a place you’re staying in? As be ts a restaurant obsessive, I’m quite a big planner when travelling, but it’s important also to be alive to spontaneous nds.
Does your ideal Saturday night away involve dancing? Absolutely. What’s your cocktail order? I'm very fond of a Manhattan but also love a Negroni, basic as that sounds.
And if you’re staying in? A Kernel Table Beer, or something from African-inspired vegan Eko Brewery in Peckham.
Will you be cooking? I do love to cook when I have time on holiday and at the weekend. I’m thinking a kind of Levantine-inspired barbecue –koftes, chops, dips, yoghurt atbreads and lots of brightly dressed salads. What outfit do you need for this weekend? Comfort would be key. My favourite brands are Folk, Universal Works, Wax London, Novesta, Labrum London and YMC.
If you go for a walk, where will you go? A dramatic, achievable hike would be nice. One of our favourite festive traditions is stomping around Dartmoor on Christmas Eve.
Will you be doing any exercise? I’m a really keen runner – I’ve done three marathons – so yes, de nitely. I’d love to squeeze in some climbing, swimming and cycling too, and maybe even some skateboarding (I’m a lapsed skateboarder).
What are you reading? Lots of people avoid reading books while writing their own, but while I was reliving my own memories for Picky, I found it inspiring to read quite di erent works of ction. I loved Colson Whitehead’s Harlem Shu e, Sally Rooney’s Intermezzo, and Michael Magee’s Close To Home. On the non- ction side, I read an advance copy of Ruby Tandoh’s All Consuming: Why We Eat the Way We Eat Now and was blown away by it.
What are you watching? We’ve been making our way through Hacks, which is completely joyous and sharp, and I became addicted to episodes of High Maintenance, an underrated, wildly creative show about a marijuana dealer making his way around New York. I also enjoyed the second season of Bad Sisters more than most reviewers and I adore e Studio
Anything else that would make the weekend perfect?
A win for my beloved Charlton Athletic would be the cherry on the icing. Can you share two restaurants that play a part in your book, and any restaurants you love in the UK? Wimpy was the essence of childhood Saturdays with my mum after a mammoth shopping trip, and MeatLiquor’s predecessor Meateasy was another burger place that helped feed my burgeoning restaurant obsession. In the UK, I love Chishuru in London and Erst in Manchester. n
ELLIE SMITH goes for the food – and stays for night
With its glistening waterfalls and sweeping mountains, the Isle of Skye provides a majestic backdrop for e ree Chimneys, perched on the shore of Loch Dunvegan. Despite the modest intentions of its founders Shirley and Eddie Spear, who set out to open a ‘cosy wee bistro’, it grew to become one of Scotland’s most famous restaurants. Recently appointed head chef Paul Green and his team cook fresh local seafood alongside game and foraged produce, with a standout seven-course tasting menu. threechimneys.co.uk
After honing his craft at e Latymer and Gidleigh Park – winning both restaurants two Michelin stars – Michael Wignall decided to take over e Angel at Hetton in North Yorkshire. e historic spot has always had high culinary credentials, but Wignall has given it a new lease of life (and another star), focusing on elevated British cooking with hints of Japanese avour. Bedrooms are equally delightful, some of which feature views of Rylstone Fell. angelhetton.co.uk
Ruth Leigh and her partner, chef Oliver Brown, spent lockdown renovating a Grade II-listed farmhouse in Kent into a characterful restaurant-with-rooms. Decked out with brightly coloured furnishings, quirky artworks and antiques, its interiors propelled the hotel to Instagram fame – but food is really the star of the show. Hyper seasonal dishes are cooked over wood in a conservatorystyle restaurant with an open kitchen. Located just down the road from the coastal town of Deal, this trendy hotel is the ultimate seaside getaway for foodies. updownfarmhouse.com
With its stone façade, roaring res and beamed ceilings, e Bull is the epitome of cosiness – and since reopening after a big refurb in 2023, it has quickly garnered a reputation as one of the UK’s best gastropubs. Helmed by Phil Winser and James Gummer, it’s all about open- re cooking, focusing on British dishes cooked brilliantly. Order the legendary pie of the day and its take on the classic Mr Whippy before opping into one of ten charming rooms. thebullcharlbury.com
Housed inside a former bank in the pretty village of South Petherton, Holm opened in 2021, spearheaded by Great British Menu chef Nicholas Balfe – the brainchild behind South London favourites Levan and Larry’s. It began as a restaurant, but a couple of years later seven beautifully designed bedrooms were added, all featuring four-posters and bathrooms stocked with Haeckels products. e restaurant has a pared back aesthetic, allowing a focus on the creative, seasonally driven menu, which is designed to celebrate the bountiful West Country produce, alongside a thoughtfully curated list of low intervention and biodynamic wines. holmsomerset.co.uk
A charming family-owned restaurant and hotel in the rolling Hertfordshire countryside, where farm-to-fork eating is the order of the day. Produce is sourced from nearby farmers, game from trusted local shoots, seafood from North Norfolk, and it has its very own organic no-dig garden providing fresh fruits and vegetables for your plate. farmhouseatredcoats.co.uk
A city of restless energy and undeniable charm, London dazzles with its contradictions — at once exhausting and exhilarating, frustrating and utterly unforgettable
Chelsea, SW3
Proudly individual and boutique, 11 Cadogan Gardens and its new sister hotel, e Chelsea Townhouse (p79), are the only Relais & Châteaux hotels in London. Expect ve-star service, quirky design, and a playful vibe. Spread across four interconnected redbrick Victorian townhouses, it has 56 guest rooms, including 22 suites that are as memorable as they are luxurious (one is especially amboyant and a little risqué). All have high ceilings and a wealth of natural light that oods through the bay windows. e hotel has a drawing room, the Chelsea Bar, and the popular Hans’ Bar & Grill, which has an all-day seasonal menu rooted in British produce – ideal locations for afternoon tea, late night cocktails, family breakfasts and everything in between. Looking for a little more privacy or a longer stay? Located a stone’s throw from the hotel, across the leafy garden square, are e Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens. Each oor features a one, two or three bedroom residence, o ering a true home from home in the heart of London.
Doubles from £489 +44 (0)20 7730 7000; 11cadogangardens.com
South Kensington, SW7
Excellently located on Gloucester Road and part of Leng’s Collection, e Bailey’s has set itself apart thanks to its inspired fusion of British meets Asian heritage. Opened in 1876 by James Bailey, a butler-turned-hotelier, it was the rst purpose-built hotel in the area. e Victorian grandeur of this Grade II-listed redbrick townhouse is deeply British, as are the stylish, super comfortable 212 rooms, with eye-catching interiors focusing on British craftsmanship. It’s the elegant restaurant that introduces the Asian in uence. Named after one of Singapore’s most popular shopping districts, e Bugis Singapore Restaurant o ers authentic Singaporean dishes in uenced by Malaysian and Chinese cuisines. In e Bailey’s Bar, mixologists conjure cocktails in a sophisticated space with high ceilings, chandeliers and panelled wood. Do try the signature e Bailey’s Cocktail – a delicious combination of Baileys, Kahlúa, Grand Marnier and orange juice. ere’s also an excellent gym to keep you in shape. But do leave time to head outdoors for a stroll –cultural adventures are a stone’s throw away. Doubles from £189 +44 (0)20 7373 6000; millenniumhotels.com
Spital elds, E1
As you walk through the doors of this charming hotel, packed with character and Georgian detail, you feel as if you’re entering another era. In lively, gentri ed Spital elds, Batty Langley’s lives up to its unusual name. Under the same ownership as the equally captivating Hazlitt’s (p82) and e Rookery (p86), it was inspired by the 18th-century architect and landscape gardener of the same name, who published handbooks designed to help inexperienced clients plan their Georgian houses and gardens ‘in the most grand taste’. e panelled interior, with its open res, countless books and ne paintings feels more like a private house than a hotel. Cocooning their inhabitants in comfort and calm, the 29 bedrooms and suites are furnished with 17th- and 18th-century carved oak beds or four-posters, heavy silk curtains and bathrooms with restored period ttings. Nods to the 21st century are discreetly hidden. Your most di cult choice, though, will be which of the three warmly decorated sitting rooms to occupy. Our pick is e Tapestry Room, with its honesty bar stocked with local spirits and French doors that open onto a pretty courtyard.
Doubles from £369 +44 (0)20 7377 4390; battylangleys.com
Chelsea, SW3
is town companion to Beaverbrook in Surrey (see p63) opened four years ago in a pair of restored Georgian houses and quickly became a not-so-secret Sloane Street hit. e ground oor is all about socialising: sipping cocktails in the Art Deco-detailed Sir Frank’s Bar and tucking into sensational Japanese food in e Fuji Grill where the new Tapasu concept centres around tapas-style small plates. For an al-fresco experience, guests can pull up a chintzy chair and watch the world go by from e Terrace. ere’s also e Butter y Room, a private dining room for up to 16 guests, with access to a pretty private terrace. Upstairs, each suite is named after a London theatre and has framed programmes of past productions on the walls. ey are designed by Nicola Harding (she was behind the rooms at Beaverbrook’s Garden House and new e Village) who has combined her trademark cosy fabrics and printed textiles with modern four-posters, fringed velvet sofas and bold colour palettes. Ask at reception and sta will lend you the key to Cadogan Gardens opposite for peaceful afternoon meandering.
Doubles from £510 +44 (0)20 3988 6611; beaverbrooktownhouse.co.uk
Mayfair, W1
Set on a quiet garden square a stone’s throw from bustling Oxford Street (near Selfridges) and Bond Street’s luxury boutiques, e Beaumont Mayfair has embodied the spirit of grand Art Deco hotels since it opened in 2014. Get ushered through the chequerboard lobby oor by the charming doorman, where walls are lined with early 20th-century paintings and cabinets showcase gleaming antiques –and enter one of the capital’s most wonderful hotels.
ere are 101 rooms (a new 29-room wing was added in a recent refurbishment) including the presidential penthouse; e Roosevelt Suite, which has a private outdoor terrace and can be transformed into a luxurious ve-bedroom suite; and ROOM, a unique, darkfumed oak bedroom within a giant semi-abstract sculpture by globally renowned artist Antony Gormley. Each airy, light- lled room has a selection of original prints, books and paintings.
e glamorous hotel restaurant has a crowd-pleasing menu that uses the best of British ingredients, including a traditional Sunday roast and the famous build-your-own sundae selection. Tucked away behind a red velvet curtain (and perfect to hideaway in if you need a moment to yourself), the speakeasy-style bar Le Magritte serves classic and signature cocktails, such as the rum-based Anything Goes and Volare, made with rose-infused gin and vermouth. ere is also the Gatsby Room, a relaxed, intimate spot to enjoy an award-winning afternoon tea, accompanied by live music from the in-house pianist, and a terrace for al fresco drinks, lunches and suppers throughout the year surrounded by lush greenery. ree private dining rooms, with 1920s-inspired interiors by the world-renowned designer ierry Despont, o er numerous options for family celebrations and corporate events.
Last but not least, the spa is small but perfectly formed – and one of London’s best-kept secrets. Whether you are looking for a particular treatment or a rejuvenating day of pure indulgence, the menu of massages and facials has been curated to calm the mind and soothe the soul. A haven in which to totally unwind, it also has a private hammam, steam room, sauna, ice bar and gym.
Doubles from £600
+44 (0)20 7499 1001; thebeaumont.com
London, W1
From shopping on Bond Street to the Royal Parks and West End theatre, Mayfair has something for everyone – and this hotel is brilliantly located on Grosvenor Square, within easy reach of it all. A masterclass in modern luxury, e Biltmore Mayfair has 250 elegant rooms, each with bespoke furnishings and a soothing colour palette. Plus, there are 49 re ned suites and eight sanctuary-like signature suites (the latter come with butler service) including, for instance, the Lord Harrowby Suite, a stately retreat with a grand living space, dining for six, and two sumptuous ensuite bedrooms. You’ll nd a trio of destination restaurants and bars: Grill 88 is an intimate steakhouse with Art Deco interiors and excellent cuts such as wagyu tomahawk and chateaubriand on the menu; brasserie-style Café Biltmore invites leisurely all-day dining, especially on the covered summer terrace; and Pine Bar has a curated selection of rare cognacs, ne wines, and caviar for the true connoisseur. And, if you don’t reach your step count exploring the capital, there’s also a state-ofthe-art gym, open 24/7.
Doubles from £480 +44 (0)20 7629 9400; thebiltmorehotels.com
Richmond
Bingham Riverhouse began life as two Georgian townhouses and, from 1899 to 1910, it was home to the poets Katherine Bradley and Edith Cooper. ‘I have rubbed myself against nature’s great warm hand,’ wrote Katherine, after a bout of gardening, ‘in a spirit of pagan delight.’ Today, the laidback Riverhouse Restaurant is overseen by award-winning South African chef Vanessa Marx, a champion of slow food who whips up modern comfort dishes, while the drawing room bar has the feel of a country house kitchen. e B-Corp Riverhouse has its own members club, which is increasingly becoming a hub for entrepreneurs who make a beeline for the tranquil ameside work setting, private bookable meeting rooms and events, and a new treatment room and sauna. ere are 15 rooms, each with a handmade Naturalmat bed and yoga mat so guests can join the daily in-house wellbeing classes; some also have freestanding copper baths. But it’s the bucolic Richmond setting that adds that extra magic: the river is just at the end of the terrace with its pretty walled garden, and there’s a towpath by the water where rowing boats splash by all day.
Doubles from £160 +44 (0)20 8940 0902; binghamriverhouse.com
Chelsea, SW10
is magni cent ve-star, all-suite urban riverside resort stands as a beacon of luxury on London’s waterfront. e hotel’s 154 luxury suites and four penthouses over ow with space and style, with stunning panoramic views of the ames. Each is beautifully appointed, with plush kingsize beds, large living spaces and elegant interiors. e oorto-ceiling windows ood the rooms with natural light and some suites have private balconies. Overlooking Chelsea Harbour on the water’s edge, e Anchor continues the excellence. Inspired by the age-old trade on the River ames with the feel of a classic yacht, every corner of the restaurant is a picture of elegance. In the kitchen, executive head chef Rohan Mehta and his skilled team produce vibrant Mediterranean plates. e spa is the perfect place to unwind, with a wide range of treatments. While there’s plenty in the hotel to keep you busy, e Chelsea Harbour Hotel & Spa is perfectly positioned for getting out and about in London. e fabulous boutiques of the King’s Road are only ve minutes’ walk away and the rest of the city within easy reach. Doubles from £195, room only +44 (0)20 7823 3000; millenniumhotels.com
BULGARI HOTEL LONDON
Knightsbridge, SW7
Perfectly positioned between Hyde Park and Sloane Street, Bulgari Hotel London is the ultimate city escape. e hotel pays tribute to Bulgari’s silversmith origins and Britain’s noble manufacturing traditions with an understated, elegant design concept with silver forming the underlying theme. Generously proportioned rooms and suites are combined with unrivalled facilities, including e Bulgari Spa’s 25-metre swimming pool and 12 single treatment rooms. Located over two oors, the spa o ers a selection of the most advanced beauty and health-enhancing treatments, in addition to its pioneering Workshop Gymnasium with on-site personal training team. Guests can also enjoy spending time in the luxurious 47-seat private cinema room, which o ers an exclusively curated library of more than 200 new and classic lms, or visit the hotel’s Edward Sahakian Cigar Shop & Sampling Lounge, where rare and vintage cigars can be sampled and purchased. e Bulgari Lounge o ers all-day dining in the comfort and glamour of an Italian-style living room. Guests can indulge in afternoon tea, crafted to savour the richness of Italian avours.
Doubles from £690 +44 (0)20 7151 1010; bulgarihotels.com
Westminster, SW1
A luxury hotel for the 21st century, with the river and central London at its door. It doesn’t matter which entrance you use –Northumberland Avenue or Whitehall Place – you’ll be struck by the wow-factor elegance of the Crystal Moon Lounge, lit by a dramatic Baccarat chandelier and a must for afternoon tea. Built in the 1880s as the Metropole Hotel and later home to government departments, it opened in its present incarnation in 2011 after a super-lavish re t. Now there’s plenty to impress: Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge’s rst London venture, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill; al fresco drinking and dining in e Garden; cocktail and champagne bar, Velvet by Salvatore Calabrese and, coming soon, an Italian restaurant, Mezzogiorno by Francesco Mazzei. Corinthia London also has some of the city’s most spacious hotel bedrooms and a multi award-winning spa. e new concept, launching this autumn, will include a state-ofthe-art tness centre curated by AMP, sleep pods, an amphitheatre sauna, a vitality pool and a Lab Room, where regenerative therapies are on o er as part of a partnership with the London Regenerative Institute.
Doubles from £1,000 +44 (0)20 7930 8181; corinthia.com/london
THE CHELSEA TOWNHOUSE
Chelsea, SW3
Sitting in the heart of London’s vibrant Chelsea neighbourhood, e Chelsea Townhouse is the newest addition to the Iconic Luxury Hotels portfolio. Debuting in September 2023, it has 36 rooms and suites spread across three handsome Queen Anne-style, Victorian red-brick townhouses. A discreet doorbell entrance reveals a patchwork tiled oor and sweeping staircases, where guests are welcomed in by Townhouse Hosts. Heritage xtures such as marble replaces and ornate crown mouldings are paired with restored furniture and trinkets from around the world, lending the property a sense of grandeur and timeless charm. oughtful touches include a welcome Chelsea Bun, plus the four Chelsea Studio Suites each come with their own kitchenette that can be pre-stocked with artisanal produce from nearby Pavilion Road. Downstairs, there’s a bu et breakfast which can be eaten in the Dining Salon or the light- lled library. Best of all, guests have access to the private Cadogan Gardens – a tranquil oasis of lush greenery, towering mulberry trees and the sound of birdsong – as well as 11 Cadogan Gardens, including use of the restaurant, bar and gym.
Doubles from £548 +44 (0)20 7730 6466; thechelseatownhouse.com
LONDON
Mayfair, W1
Mayfair has its fair share of ve-star hotels. However, Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane stands out from the crowd with its Art Deco elegance, vibrant interiors and all-round excellence. Opened in 1970, this big hitter is the most established Four Seasons in Europe but shows no sign of slowing down, celebrating its 55th anniversary this year. e 196 recently renovated rooms and suites add further sparkle, from the beautifully-appointed Executive Conservatories to the Hyde Park Suite, with sweeping views of Hyde Park. e beds are quite possibly the com est in London. When it comes to dining, chef Yannick Alléno has brought his modern French cuisine to the Michelin-star Pavyllon London, producing highly crafted and innovative plates – book a table at the counter to experience serious culinary theatre. Bar Antoine serves up superb cocktails, and has a terrace for alfresco dining. Just don’t miss the jaw-dropping tenth oor spa – a serene lesson in oak and stone – with nine glass-walled treatment rooms plus delicious relaxation pods. e service is faultless and the best of the city is right on your doorstep
Doubles from £800, room only +44 (0)20 7499 0888; fourseasons.com/london
Belgravia, SW1
Created from the maverick mind of Otto Goring in 1910, e Goring imbues both the splendour and mischief of the pre-war Edwardians: an era when those in the know excelled at having a good time. Today, the hotel maintains its original spirit and is still richly woven with a particular brand of Britishness. From Gainsborough silks handcrafted with historic tales in the luxurious suites and cosy bedrooms, to the scarlet red coattails worn by the footmen, every detail is a slice of escapism (it’s also within strolling distance of the Royal Parks and Buckingham Palace). One of the few family-run hotels that is truly independent, sta here welcome guests old and new like age-old friends. Whether stopping for a chat during afternoon tea or delivering a surprise visit from Teddy the Shetland pony, they exude a delightful old-fashioned air for service. Refreshed last year, the Michelin-starred Dining Room includes a new state-ofthe-art kitchen and chef’s counter, while the Goring Cocktail Bar, with its live pianist, is an elegant setting for a post-dinner digestif. e perfect way to end a day in London.
Doubles from £790 +44 (0)20 7396 9000; thegoring.com
Strolling through the leafy streets of Belgravia, one building naturally draws the eye – e Hari. Its striking navy and glass façade, adorned with cascading greenery, o ers a glimpse of the residential retreat within. Inside, 85 newly refurbished rooms, including 14 suites, feature views of London’s iconic skyline, sleek marble bathrooms, and contemporary artworks by luminaries such as Tracey Emin and Mario Testino. e hotel champions the arts, hosting an annual prize in collaboration with A Space For Art, which gifts the nalist a generous £14,000. Sustainability is also a priority, earning e Hari a Silver Accreditation from EarthCheck, the global benchmark in environmental certi cation for travel and tourism. Tucked beneath a canopy of ivy, the Garden Terrace is a hidden oasis. With its retractable roof and heaters, it remains a welcoming spot in any weather. Meanwhile, Il Pampero serves up enticing Italian-inspired menus, complete with homemade pasta and Dolci Momenti Afternoon Tea. All this, just moments from Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, the Royal Albert Hall, and the city’s most exclusive shopping districts.
Doubles from £540 +44 (0)20 7858 0100; thehari.com
Shoreditch EC2
e location of Hart Shoreditch couldn’t get any better, with Old Spital elds, Brick Lane and Columbia Road Flower Market pretty much on its doorstep. But there’s a lot more to it than the address. Craftmanship is the big thing here, with Hart Shoreditch drawing inspiration from the area’s rich industrial history, blended with elevated design. A passion for arts and culture continues the creativity. e hotel regularly hosts a thrilling line-up of events, hands-on workshops and activities. en there’s the Communal Table – a free workspace for local entrepreneurs, freelancers and creatives. e 126 bedrooms are thoughtfully designed by Fabled Studio. A muted, elegant colour palette is the backdrop for copper mirror accents, deep green leather detailing and modern furnishings. e bathrooms are warm, yet urban spaces – picture concrete vanities, herringbone ooring and bold geometric tiling plus, impressively, vegan Shoreditch-crafted soap. e UBA restaurant serves exquisite pan-Asian contemporary street food, while the Lobby Bar is the perfect spot for drinks, with handcrafted cocktails and vibrant music, cementing the buzzy vibe.
Doubles from £207 +44 (0)20 3995 3655; hartshoreditch.com
London, W1
A Regent Street landmark for over 160 years, this iconic hotel has welcomed the likes of Oscar Wilde, David Bowie, and Winston Churchill. A grand Murano glass chandelier sets an opulent tone in the lobby, leading to elegant interiors and the reimagined Café Royal Grill – a re ned all-day caférestaurant fusing French culinary air with the best of British ingredients. Rooms and suites o er calm luxury with English oak panelling and marble bathrooms. e iconic Dome Penthouse Suite features two terraces with panoramic London views, a Ming green bathtub, and three spacious bedrooms. Equally sanctuary-like is the underground Akasha spa which o ers a full range of wellness experiences – from Watsu treatments to tness consultations. Culinary highlights include chef Alex Dilling’s two Michelin-starred restaurant, where modern French tasting menus take centre stage, and Albert Adrià’s Cakes & Bubbles, known for its irresistible desserts and pastries. With its rich history and modern elegance, the hotel remains a sanctuary of style and indulgence in the heart of London.
Doubles from £795 +44 (0)20 7406 3333; hotelcaferoyal.com
Soho, W1
Hazlitt’s is the real deal: as genuine, amusing and revealing a hotel as you could hope for, especially in bustling Soho. It’s named after the radical essayist and master of English prose, William Hazlitt. He died in poverty in 1830 at 6 Frith Street, one of three adjoining townhouses that the owners, experts on the Georgian era, fashioned into Hazlitt’s in 1986. A fourth building behind was converted to create a sitting room with an honesty bar and an additional eight bedrooms, reached by a lift. As be ts an establishment with such literary connections, the hotel is popular with authors, who leave signed copies of their works when they depart, and the heaving bookcases are full of signed tomes from former guests including Bill Bryson, Ted Hughes and Seamus Heaney. e sloping, creaking oorboards have been retained and the rooms, decorated with antiques, busts and paintings, are individually furnished, with splendid bathtubs and Victorian ttings. Like the rooms in its distinctive sister establishments, Batty Langley’s (p74) and e Rookery (p86), they are delightfully di erent from other London hotels. Doubles from £369 +44 (0)20 7434 1771; hazlittshotel.com
Belgravia, SW1
It’s rare to nd an a ordable hotel in central London; even more so in smart Belgravia. But the Lime Tree is just that, and what’s more, it has the air of a place in the country, with painted furniture and breakfast menus chalked jauntily on blackboards.
e guesthouse, which is spread across two Grade II-listed townhouses, underwent a major six-month refurbishment in 2020, transforming it into a delightful 26-room bolthole. e rooms are simple, stylish and homely, each with soothing colour palettes and pretty geometric patterned cushions, and Bramley goodies in the bathroom.
ere’s also a cosy guest lounge and e Buttery, a café-style restaurant (which is open to the public) full of chatter where friendly sta serve up delicious breakfasts and an all-day brunch menu, which includes homemade aubergine parmigiana, spicy shakshuka and Nutella french toast. When the weather allows, relaxing outside in the peaceful walled garden feels like having discovered a magical secret oasis, a whole world away from the heady bustle of nearby Sloane Square and the King’s Road.
Doubles from £180 +44 (0)20 7730 8191; limetreehotel.co.uk
Hyde Park, London
e celebrated Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group is a byword for luxury and outstanding service. is original London outpost is no exception. Interior designer Joyce Wang cited the beauty of Hyde Park, the hotel’s royal heritage and the glamour of the early 20th-century’s golden age of travel as her inspiration. e Art Deco in uenced bedrooms are sanctuaries of calm, with bespoke furniture, curated artwork and Volakas marble bathrooms. For dining, there’s two Michelin-star Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, e Rosebery for all-day dining and e Aubrey, an exceptional Japanese izakaya restaurant. Hyde Park Garden, a seasonal opening for the summer, is the latest addition, with a menu designed by the team behind Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. en there’s the Mandarin Bar, one of London’s favourite nightspots. Spa o erings include facials in partnership with Oskia, holistic health workshops and nutritional consultations with Clinique La Prairie, and the BodySpace Momentum Studio. Fans should check out Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, which opened last year (p84).
Doubles from £900 +44 (0)20 7235 2000; mandarinoriental.com
Mayfair, W1
is sleek new boutique hotel in Hanover Square hits all the high notes. At the crossroads of art, fashion and culture, the exceptional contemporary design and superb service set this newcomer apart. en there are the 50 tranquil suites and rooms, with richly textured interiors, hand-painted de Gournay wallpapers, marble bathrooms and high-tech features. Guests can also stay in a series of private apartments. e food is equally impressive. Chef Akira Back makes his UK debut here, with exquisite modern Japanese in his eponymous restaurant and a Korean menu at the chef’s table at Dosa by Akira Back, which has recently been awarded a Michelin star. Couple that with the buzzy ABar Rooftop, boasting stunning panoramic views, mouthwatering cocktails and light bites. e spa is the perfect antidote after a day out in the city, where clued-up therapists o er an innovative array of personalised treatments. ere’s also a 25m indoor pool (Mayfair’s largest), a state-of-the-art tness centre and Bodyspace, which addresses every aspect of your lifestyle.
Doubles from £1,000 +44 (0)20 7889 8888; mandarinoriental.com/mayfair
Located on Half Moon Street, alongside Piccadilly, e Mayfair Townhouse sits across 15 Georgian townhouses, seven of which are listed. Rich in history and once a known haunt for colourful characters, it evokes a debonair Oscar-Wilde-meets-Alicein-Wonderland aesthetic. Touches of whimsy combine with practicality in the 172 individually designed guestrooms and suites which range from the Cabin Rooms to e Garden Suites that open onto a courtyard patio, or the Signature Suites o ering the best in old and new world exclusivity in a glamourous setting. e Dandy Bar, an intimate and sophisticated cocktail bar where style meets decadence, is the heart and soul of e Mayfair Townhouse, while e Lower Ground is a vibrant space to work, connect and eat. An expertly curated collection of over 550 pieces of art, including a Swarovski crystal peacock sculpture, is woven seamlessly throughout the hotel. Stepping out into the heart of Mayfair, there is a wealth of restaurants, boutiques, art galleries and museums on the doorstep; a short walk leads to Shepherd Market, Green Park and Buckingham Palace.
Doubles from £390 +44 (0)20 8138 3400; themayfairtownhouse.com
Kensington, W8
What a fantastic location this red-brick Victorian hotel has, right opposite Kensington Palace. Rooms are classic and elegant; suites are truly unique. ey include e Ruhlmann in black and chrome, inspired by French designer Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann; the handsome Hermès with its custom furniture and green colour scheme; and the Noel Coward, which nods to Art Deco. Sta can organise tailored shopping tours in Knightsbridge or a fabulous picnic hamper to take to Kensington Gardens but for a culture x, there are blockbuster museums and the Royal Albert Hall on the doorstep too. After a day out exploring, head back for nourishing spa treatments and a swim in the pool at the recently revamped Wellness Club. British fare is the focus at Cheneston’s Restaurant (if you’re feeling hungry, go for the eight-course tasting menu) while the redesigned Stables Bar & Hideaway, with its wood-panelled walls, racing green leather banquettes and brass lamps, is the place for imaginatively crafted cocktails. Afternoon tea in the Park Lounge is also a must.
Doubles from £545
+44 (0)20 7917 1000; milestonehotel.com
Covent Garden, WC2
Housed in a beautiful heritage building, once home to e Morning Post newspaper, One Aldwych is brilliantly positioned on the edge of bustling Covent Garden. London’s rst luxury hotel to achieve B Corp status, the contemporary yet soothing suites and rooms come with sweeping views of the cityscape below. Signature restaurant Indigo from Executive Chef Dominic Teague celebrates British producers in seasonal delicious dishes, such as Cornish lamb for two or monk sh wrapped in seaweed. e Lobby Bar, with its extensive list of the coolest craft cocktails, is an institution; the Charlie and the Chocolate Factory-themed afternoon tea is huge fun for all ages, featuring snozzberry jam and chocolate swudge milkshake. e concierge has the inside track on everything from the best brunch spots and hottest theatre tickets to must-visit exhibitions. Upon return, settle down in the library with its comfortable sofas and beautiful books. And, for pampering – whether a refreshing swim, a pick-me-up facial or an invigorating massage – you can while away a few hours in the deeply cosseting health club and spa. Doubles from £800 +44 (0)20 7300 1000; onealdwych.com
Clerkenwell, EC1
ose in the know in London don’t lay their heads in the centre of town – they swerve east to its most fashionable districts. Luckily, we know of secret abodes beyond the reach of hipsters and tech geeks. One such hideaway is the deliciously unique Rookery, set in the heart of gastronomic Clerkenwell. After eating top-class grub and partying hard, you can retreat to one of its 33 quirky bedrooms, none of which is the same. Each, though, shares gorgeous Georgian detailing, polished brass metalwork in bathrooms, antiques aplenty and shelves bulging with real books. In the 1800s, Clerkenwell was teeming with thieves, tarts and ne’er-dowells. A rookery was universally understood to mean a criminal area and many of the rooms are named after those local characters of ill repute. And you won’t worry about the wonky oors or the lack of things like a spa or a gym as you enjoy the hotel’s calm and mannered atmosphere – a bit like that of a private club – as you settle in the drawing room or courtyard garden with the papers. Plus, you’re only a stone’s throw from St Paul’s Cathedral.
Doubles from £369 +44 (0)20 7336 0931; rookeryhotel.com
With its winning combination of English heritage and contemporary sophistication, Rosewood London sits rmly in the highest echelons of the capital’s luxury hotels. e Grade II-listed Belle Époque building has the feel of a stylish London residence; guests enter a grand, wrought-iron-gated former carriage arch, leading to the hotel’s historic central courtyard with its majestic stone façades –featuring a beautiful terrace which delivers pop-up experiences that rotate throughout the year – while the Grand Pavonazzo marble staircase soars to a dizzying 166ft cupola. Inside, the hotel is the work of two designers: Tony Chi created the 263 glamorous rooms and 45 suites, splendid Rose Bronze Gallery entrance and the jewel box Mirror Room, which serves an innovative Art Afternoon Tea. Meanwhile, Martin Brudnizki designed both Holborn Dining Room – a British brasserie with a trendy gin bar – and the popular Scarfes Bar, its walls decorated with paintings by satirical artist Gerald Scarfe. Don’t miss Holborn Dining Room’s Pie Room, run by Head Pie Maker Nokx Majozi. Suites come with a dedicated butler, and service is faultless.
Doubles from £750 +44 (0)20 7781 8888; rosewoodhotels.com/london
London Bridge, SE1
For the most outstanding cityscape views of London, this hotel wins hands-down. Starting on level 34, it spans 18 oors of the Italian architect Renzo Piano-designed e Shard, which is close to Tower Bridge. Suites have oor-to-ceiling windows so you can see landmarks such as St Paul’s Cathedral from your bed. GŌNG bar – the highest hotel cocktail bar in the capital –is the place for sundowners and late-night digestifs, with the surrounding skyscrapers lit up and twinkling below. And, when you’re in the in nity Sky Pool, part of the wellness o ering that also includes Elemis facials and massages, a sauna and gym, it can feel like swimming laps among the clouds. Don’t miss dinner at Asian fusion restaurant TĪNG or ground oor Bar 31, where local craft beers on tap can be paired with bites made using fresh seasonal ingredients sourced from nearby Borough Market. Stroll along the ames to St Paul’s Cathedral, Tate Modern and the National eatre, or venture further into the West End for shopping and a theatre show – knowing that bird’s eye vistas await on your return.
Doubles from £700; +44 (0)20 7234 8000; shangri-la.com
e City, EC3
e Westin London City, part of the Marriott Bonvoy portfolio, is beautifully situated along the banks of the ames, overlooking Shakespeare’s Globe and Tate Modern. A contemporary ve-star retreat, this sophisticated hotel is rooted in wellbeing. ere are 226 elegantly designed, light- lled guest rooms, suites, and residences, each featuring the signature Heavenly® Bed as part of the Sleep Well programme. e suites have views of St Paul’s Cathedral. Dining can be enjoyed in Hithe + Seek, a stylish bar and kitchen with panoramic river views. Meanwhile, Mosaic, the all-day dining restaurant, o ers sustainably sourced dishes, blending the Eat Well menu and delicious elegantly-presented comfort food. is means guests looking for either a health-centric menu or soul-stirring food are sorted. e Heavenly Spa by Westin has Germaine de Capuccini, Aromatherapy Associates, and OTO Wellbeing products. Guests can also enjoy a 12m pool, sauna, steam room, experience shower, ice fountain and the WestinWORKOUT® Fitness Studio which is fully equipped for an energising Move Well experience.
Doubles from £375 +44 (0)20 3146 2690; westinlondoncity.com
Lights, camera, slumber: from Regency romances to a festive spy thriller, OLIVIA EMILY picks out five films starring beautiful British hotels
1
EYES WIDE SHUT (1999), The Lanesborough, London
You don’t need to book secret three-bedroom Royal Suite to stay at e Lanesborough – but that’s what Stanley Kubrick did when crafting his nal lm. With production stretching a whopping 400 days, Eyes Wide Shut may be set in New York, but it was mainly lmed in the UK. e Royal Suite consumed ten of those 400 days, totally transformed into the billiard room where Bill (Tom Cruise) and Ziegler (Sydney Pollack) circle a red pool table, discussing the previous night’s mysterious party. oetkercollection.com
2THE WITCHES (1990), The Headland Hotel, Newquay, Cornwall
In Roald Dahl’s e Witches, nine-year-old Luke heads to the Hotel Excelsior on the South Coast with his ailing Norwegian grandmother, in the hopes that the sea air will alleviate her diabetes symptoms. ere they meet a gaggle of child-snatching witches. It was lmed at the iconic red-brick Victorian Grade II-listed Headland Hotel, Newquay, which stands proud beside Fistral Beach, replete with huge spa, surf school, and spacious seaview bedrooms. headlandhotel.co.uk
PRIDE AND PREJUDICE (2005), Chatsworth, Derbyshire
Rumour has it Jane Austen wrote Pride and Prejudice while staying in Bakewell, the pretty Derbyshire market town. e area’s most distinguished destination though is Chatsworth House, which is thought to have inspired Pemberley. So when the 2005 movie adaptation decided to lm on the estate, it was a full-circle moment. While we can’t stay within the hallowed walls, e Cavendish is the closest answer: an intimate 28-bedroom hotel on the estate, recently redesigned by Nicola Harding. cavendishhotelbaslow.co.uk
4
FOUR WEDDINGS AND A FUNERAL (1994), Luton Hoo Hotel, Bedfordshire
Luton Hoo Hotel has had quite the presence on screen, from the Bridgerton family garden in Net ix’s smash-hit series to a cameo in Reese Witherspoon’s 2004 Vanity Fair. But perhaps Luton Hoo is most recognisable for its turn in Four Weddings and a Funeral as the second wedding reception venue, where Charles (Hugh Grant) is disappointed to meet Hamish (Corin Redgrave), the wealthy Scottish ancé of Carrie (Andie MacDowell). lutonhoo.co.uk
5
DOVES, NETFLIX (2024), The Royal Lancaster Hotel, London is festive thriller had everyone talking – not least the Londoners spotting their local haunts on screen. More than 100 locations were reportedly used across the capital to create Black Doves, Keira Knightley’s spy thriller. ere’s a murder on the South Bank, secret meet-ups in a bygone Tooting cinema, and illicit rendezvous in a hotel bar. e latter is e Royal Lancaster Hotel, where Sam and Reed meet before the former sips champagne and spies a lover at the hotel bar. royallancaster.com
The Americans can’t get enough of our honey-coloured Cotswolds, but there’s a lot more to the area than just its picturepostcard veneer
Charlbury, Oxfordshire
With its cosy nooks, log res and orchard garden, this 17th-century pub in the market town of Charlbury (an uber popular destination for the ever-increasing number of Cotswolds-loving folk) is another Daylesford Stays triumph – and part of the collection which includes e Wild Rabbit (p100).
As always with Daylesford – the vision of Lady Bamford who opened the rst farmshop in 2002 – the food is exceptional; hearty pub classics sit alongside ingredient-led dishes, with seasonal produce from Daylesford’s Market Garden and sustainably sourced meat and sh. Generous Sunday roasts are cooked slowly over re in e Barn – an open-plan feasting space that’s also perfect for year-round parties and family gatherings. In the summer, the huge garden is the place to enjoy wood- red sourdough pizzas from the Garden Bar.
Inside, the bar forms the heart of the pub, with a hand-picked selection of modern craft beers from independent British breweries, alongside traditional cask ales and wine from independent vineyards. Large inglenook res take the chill out of the cooler evenings. e 12 beautiful bedrooms sitting above the pub and e Barn feel like a home away from home. Each room is characterful and welcoming, featuring bespoke pieces by British artisans and craftspeople. From twin rooms tucked away in the eaves and spacious rooms located in the oldest part of the pub, all have been sympathetically restored to retain many of their original features. Filled with natural light, each room combines exceptionally comfortable beds featuring sumptuous bed linen and cloudlike pillows, all in the signature Daylesford palette combining contrasting textures and fabrics.
roughout the year, e Bell hosts a series of craft, art and oristry workshops in e Barn, as well as Easter egg hunts and summer parties in the Garden. e many epicurean delights of Daylesford Farm and farmshop, plus Bamford Wellness Spa, are only a short drive away and the beauty of the Cotswolds is right on e Bell’s doorstep.
Doubles from £152
+44 (0)1608 692887; thebellatcharlbury.com
Burford, Oxfordshire
is Grade II-listed, 16th-century coaching inn, tucked away in the medieval Cotswolds town of Burford, has been making headlines for all the right reasons. First, when it was acquired by PR impresario and local resident Matthew Freud; second, when it reopened in 2023 after a full-scale renovation.
It o ers everything you’d want from a re ned rural weekend escape – including two destination restaurants. Chef Adam Harris heads up the signature dining room, Bull, where the focus is on seasonal, locally sourced produce (on Sundays, it’s a roast-only menu). Outside, in the sunken courtyard’s bespoke marquee, Wild o ers a supper club-style setup, with chef Ben Chamberlain serving an imaginative ten to 12 course tasting menu of grill-led dishes – think spider crab cones with pit leeks and masago, rhubarb-glazed pork belly with onion crunch, and a yuzu custard parfait to nish.
Beyond the dining, there are many cosy corners to settle into. Herd, the sitting room, comes with an open re in the colder months, while the cocktail bar, Vincents, is e ortlessly stylish. Both are hung with pieces from the hotel’s remarkable art collection, which ranges from big names like Damien Hirst, Salvador Dalí, Banksy and Francis Bacon to rarer nds such as a Roman marble mosaic, a fragment of Byzantine sculpture.
While the shared spaces buzz with life, the 18 individually designed bedrooms bring calm and character. Expect original timber beams, wonky oors, stone replaces and exposed Cotswold brickwork, all softened by a grown-up palette of dusky pinks and muted blues, modern furnishings and playful details like in-room drinks trolleys and a communal pantry stocked with homemade brownies and books. e events programme is just as well-considered as the interiors –from secret cinema nights in a 16-seat private screening room to dealerled poker evenings held in a hidden, sunken space accessed through an old prison door. It’s perfectly placed between Oxford and Cheltenham, with Bourton-on-the-Water and Blenheim Palace close by, this is an ideal base for exploring the Cotswolds – or simply staying put.
Doubles from £275
+44 (0)1993 220994; bullburford.com
Tetbury, Gloucestershire
Set within 220 acres of rewilded countryside, Calcot suits many occasions – honeymoons, family gatherings, spa breaks, country weekends – with equal success. e agship of e Calcot Collection, a small, eclectic hotel group, which includes Lord Crewe Arms (p115) and e Painswick (p98), there’s a total of 34 refreshed and reinvigorated cream-hued rooms here. ose in the manor house are designed with couples in mind, while family rooms and suites occupy converted cottages and barns; deluxe suites have their own private garden. e recently expanded spa is superlative; the ComfortZone’s treatments menu is fabulously indulgent. Should you be lounging in the indoor or outdoor pool or the hot tub, this time can be guaranteed uninterrupted thanks to an Ofstedregistered crèche. e Grain Store is the stateof-the-art gym, kitted out exhaustively: there’s a Technogym, spin shed, holistic and exercise studios, plus a host of tness classes. Linger over imaginative seasonal dishes in the Brasserie restaurant or graze in e Hive café, which transforms into a buzzy cocktail bar at night. It’s also only a stone’s throw from Highgrove and Gatcombe Park if you’re after a dose of royalty. Doubles from £344 +44 (0)1666 890391; calcot.co
Broadway, Worcestershire
Standing proud on the sprawling 500-acre Farncombe Estate is Dormy House. Overlooking the picture-postcard village of Broadway, this 17th-century farmhouse turned boutique retreat boasts cosy corners, open replaces and agstone oors. Its 39 cheerful bedrooms and suites are the exemplar of quintessential country living with a touch of Scandinavian style. Dormy House is also home to an internationally renowned spa, o ering utter relaxation in the form of thermal suites, a Himalayan salt sauna, a snow shower and an outdoor reside hot tub. e interactive 12-seat chef’s table restaurant, MO, boldly puts Dormy House on the Cotswolds’ food map, with chefs and a sommelier guiding diners through eight innovative courses. e Back Garden restaurant o ers a seasonal menu of local, high welfare meat and responsibly cultivated veg, while e Shed provides the perfect spot for a nightcap. You’re free to explore the beautiful Farncombe Estate, or take a short drive to the village of Broadway with its exquisite houses, manicured lawns, and art galleries. For spectacular views of the countryside, a short hike will take you to Broadway Tower. Doubles from £395 +44 (0)1386 852711; dormyhouse.co.uk
PARK
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire e nest estate in the Cotswolds, Ellenborough Park is located within 90 acres of glorious grounds, just moments away from Cheltenham Racecourse. e lovingly restored 15th-century manor house was once home to the Earl of Ellenborough, former governor-general of India in the 1830s (the in uence of his travels is visible in the Great Hall and Minstrels’ Gallery); today it has been elevated to contemporary glory. e 61 rooms, suites, and private hideaway, e Lodge, have appealing country house character (think antique furniture, rich fabrics, heavenly beds and rolltop baths). Alongside an outdoor heated pool and soulsoothing spa, the new Spa Garden Retreat is home to a hot tub, sauna, ice-bath, relaxation area and modern sun loungers. From fresh seasonal produce to an inviting atmosphere, there is a dining experience to suit everyone. Spring and summer see an al fresco dining delight in quirky dining carriages on the South Lawn and the Taittinger Terrace. Guests can also enjoy a glass of Champagne from the converted Horse Box trailer bar while watching the sunset over the racecourse.
Doubles from £269 +44 (0)1242 545454; ellenboroughpark.com
THE DOUBLE RED DUKE Clan eld, Oxfordshire is wisteria-clad coaching inn close to Oxford and on the edge of the Cotswolds comes from the minds of Sam and Georgie Pearman of Country Creatures and Cubitt House. Guests can hunker down in one of the cosy sitting rooms for drinks before heading to the open-plan bar and garden room for –the biggest draw – the food. is is cooked over a live re; book the chef’s counter to be at the heart of the action. ink charred squid, smoked aubergine and miso dip, the best longhorn steaks, and crème brûlée for dessert. ey also do a fabulous chef series throughout the year, hosting exciting talent such as Margot Henderson and Niklas Elkstedt. Upstairs, comfortable rooms (the biggest sleep a family of four) with original wooden beams shine a spotlight on British artisans. Upholstered furniture is designed by George Smith, fabrics and wallpaper are from Fermoie and Rapture and Wright, among others. ere is also a shepherd’s hut in the herb garden for massages using all-natural, botanical products. e garden room for up to 40 and a 12-seater feasting room can both be hired for parties.
Doubles from £180 +44 (0)1367 810222; countrycreatures.com
Broadway, Worcestershire
Tucked away on Farncombe Estate in the Cotswolds, alongside Dormy House (p92) and Foxhill Manor (p94), e Fish is a boutique property with some extraordinary features. Alongside country-chic rooms and suites in e Stables, e Outhouse and e Coach House, there are three show-stopping luxury treehouses accessed via a rope bridge (perfect for a family escape). Fifteen converted shepherd huts are also nestled within the grounds, with cosy double beds and freestanding baths – some have their own private hot tubs. A stroll down the hill leads to Hook, the restaurant helmed by Farncombe’s culinary director Martin Burge. With a focus on sustainable and seasonal cuisine, he’s introduced a delectable maritimeinspired menu. Eat on the large, paved terrace, or in the dining room, with an open kitchen for watching the skilled chefs at work. Large groups will love Feasting on e Deck, an outdoor space where you can enjoy a three-course BBQ extravaganza. It’s a fabulous spot for families and dogs, with an array of activities available on the Adventure Field, children’s woodland play area, agility course speci cally for canines and –are you ready? – an outdoor ‘dog tub’.
Doubles from £225 +44 (0)1386 858000; the shhotel.co.uk
Broadway, Worcestershire
Nestled deep within the scenic woodland of Farncombe Estate in the Cotswolds, this majestic Arts & Crafts Grade II-listed property was originally a private home and retains the feel of a private manor house hotel to this day. e sister hotel to Dormy House (p92) and e Fish (p94), Foxhill Manor rede nes luxury with an all-inclusive boutique experience that o ers endless indulgence and impeccable service. ere are ve glamorous rooms and three suites to choose from, all individually designed and with views of the rolling countryside. Instead of a restaurant, you’re invited to chat through your foodie desires with the chef, who will make you a bespoke dinner to order, while cocktails can be mixed on demand, and wine fridges and pantries are available for guests to raid. On the estate, outdoor activities like falconry and clay shooting can be arranged, and in the valley below lies the beautiful Cotswolds village of Broadway. Guests are o ered access to the fabulous spa at Dormy House, too. And for the ultimate in privacy, the property can be exclusively hired for a group to enjoy.
Doubles from £790 +44 (0)1386 854200; foxhillmanor.com
Stanton Harcourt, Cotswolds
Within a 30-minute drive from Oxford, and on the cusp of the Cotswolds, this 17th-century pub sits in the centre of the charming Oxfordshire village of Stanton Harcourt. While it ticks all the boxes of a lovely village pub – cosy nooks and crannies, roaring log res and wood burners – it also has the feel of a stylish baronial countryside manor.
e ten rooms really are something special: comfortable, cosy, and individually named and decorated. Broadway is for families (it sleeps up to four); light, airy and accessible, Burford has direct access to the rear garden; and the regal Blenheim suite is ideal for an indulgent treat or celebration, with its beamed vaulted ceiling, leather sofas and wooden four-poster bed.
e atmosphere is both rare ed and relaxing. Sink into a squidgy sofa by the re to enjoy a cocktail, glass of wine or one of the many ne ales on o er as you watch the world go by. If you feel peckish, order elevated pub classics (battered haddock with chips and crushed peas, steaks that are grilled to perfection) or bar snacks such as the renowned sage and onion Scotch egg with Oxford sauce. e main menu also delivers on presentation and choice. Perhaps start with the gin-cured smoked trout, pickled jalapenos, lime and crème fraiche, followed by whole roasted poussin, pea and asparagus fricassee –and save room to top it o with the acclaimed lemon meringue cheesecake. Service and attention to detail is excellent, and goes way beyond what you might expect in a pub. ere are summer terraces too, for when the weather turns warm.
is being the gateway to the Cotswolds, there’s plenty to see and do on the doorstep, from pottering around towns like Witney and Burford to concerts at Blenheim Palace and the irresistible lure of retail therapy at Bicester Village. Head south for a stroll to Devil’s Quoits, a henge and stone circle, or for a longer walk, pick up the ames River path nearby. For shing enthusiasts, Linear Fisheries is just down the road and has multiple lakes with some of the best carp shing in the UK.
Doubles from £ 105
+44 (0)1865 416516; theharcourtarms.com
Lechlade, Gloucestershire
Discover a slice of bucolic bliss in the heart of Gloucestershire. Nestled among 850 acres of rolling meadows and greenery, centred around a series of pristine lakes, this is a tranquil escape. It began as a vision shared between property developer John Hitchcox and celebrated designer Philippe Starck, who dreamt of creating a modern countryside retreat. e result is a secluded rural estate, ideal for everyone, from couples in search of romance to multi-gen groups with the whole family (and dogs) in tow. Choose from a selection of luxury hotel rooms, cabins, apartments or houses, all with serene lakeside locations and unbeatable views – some even come with their own rowing boats, paddleboards and canoes. For dining, there’s a lakeside restaurant, bespoke private dining options, or the dedicated Guest Services team will ll up your fridge for a home-cooked feast. e Lakes by YOO o ers a variety of experiences, from wild swimming, watersports and ziplining to an on-site farm and naturebased Kids Club. Just want to chill out? Head to the Spa and Wellness Centre, with its stateof-the-art gym, 17m heated pool, cryotherapy chamber and indulgent treatments.
Doubles from £325
+44 (0)1367 254260; thelakesbyyoo.com
Originally a 14th-century coaching inn, e Lygon Arms in Broadway has 86 unique guestrooms and suites and is located in the heart of the Cotswolds. Over the years it has played host to many famous guests: King Charles I met here with his supporters, giving his name to the impressive ‘Charles I Suite’ complete with four-poster bed and many original features. Further proving the hotel’s universal appeal, Oliver Cromwell also occupied a room here immediately before his victory at the Battle of Worcester in 1651. Relax next to a roaring re in one of the cosy lounges or book a table in the outstanding Grill or the relaxed Tavern, both menus created by the exceptionally talented chef James Martin (of Saturday Kitchen fame). A delectable afternoon tea can be enjoyed in the Russell Room, or you can unwind in e Lygon Spa which has a Victorian galleried swimming pool and a range of rejuvenating and blissful beauty treatments on o er. ere are four EV charging points too, so eco-minded guests are well catered for. Doubles from £306 +44 (0)1386 852255; lygonarmshotel.co.uk
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
is is the place to stay in Cheltenham: your urban base in the heart of the Cotswolds. Owned by British fashion power couple Jade Holland Cooper, founder of her eponymous brand, and Julian Dunkerton, co-founder of Superdry, No.131 is where heritage excellence meets contemporary cool.
Spread across a trio of handsome white-fronted Georgian townhouses on e Promenade, there are 36 fabulous rooms, with re ned detailing, divine beds, stylish bathtubs, bold statement fabrics, modern British art, and period bathrooms for a touch of old-fashioned luxury.
en there are hideaways, hangouts and sun-dappled terraces aplenty with outdoor bars and al fresco dining. Streetside elegance abounds at No.131 e Terrace restaurant. Menus range from a weekday xed-price ‘Green’ menu, with dishes featuring locally sourced ingredients, to indulgent suppers and the famous Sunday roast. e restaurant is complemented downstairs by the relaxed buzz of Gin & Juice, the heart of Cheltenham’s social scene, where you can work your way through a list of 400 gins and boogie the night away every weekend with its resident DJs.
A destination restaurant in itself, YOKU (which means the desire to do things exceptionally well, with kindness and care) is the hotel’s Japanese ne dining restaurant, a one-of-a-kind setting where sushi meets style. Don’t miss the ‘Underwater Kingdom’ with its beautiful array of sashimi.
For an extra spoiling time, book in for the hotel’s ‘Stay in Style’ package. Guests are greeted with champagne on arrival and then can be whisked o to have a personalised styling appointment at the Holland Cooper agship boutique at nearby Dunkertons Park, followed by an overnight stay and breakfast.
Dunkertons Park, which is also owned by Jade and Julian, is a stylish lifestyle destination in its own right. Here you can nd street food vendors, a charming French-style boulangerie, and a programme of interesting events.
Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1242 822939; no131.com
A glorious combination of eclecticism, heavenly food and creature comforts, all set in one of the Cotswolds’ prettiest towns, this picture-perfect Palladian house, owned by e Calcot Collection, is a relaxing, chic haven with ace cuisine and fabulous views over the Slad valley. e Calcot Collection, which includes Lord Crewe Arms (p115) and Calcot & Spa (p92) too, is master of the art of creating laidback luxury, conjuring up an arty, subtly funky feel in the sitting rooms and furnishing the 17 bedrooms in pale, soothing tones, with characteristic attention to detail. Families and groups of friends will love the private new three-bedroom cottage, sitting next to the hotel, with its own kitchen and lounge area. Head chef Jamie McCullum can cook you a tray bake supper ready and waiting for you to pop into the oven. Alternatively, enjoy the hotel’s just-relaunched restaurant SAUCE, with its brand-new menu of small plates, feasting boards and tasty puds. Breakfast in the sunny restaurant is a delight too – as is the sumptuous Painswick afternoon tea in one of the cosy lounges or on the lovely terrace with valley views. Doubles from £219 +44 (0)1452 813688; thepainswick.co.uk
Barnsley, Gloucestershire
THE PIG has expanded its litter, with this honey-hued, 17th-century Grade II-listed gem, which features original listed arts and crafts gardens by Rosemary Verey. Sitting peachily in the delightful Cotswolds village of Barnsley, the house is genuinely unspoilt and elegantly appointed, with cosy nooks and crannies to hunker down in. Spread across the main house, the honey-stone Stableyard, and the gardens, there are 26 generous bedrooms – all wonderfully piggy (rich fabrics, super comfy beds, reclaimed textures and roll top baths), complete with fabulous garden views. e much-loved 25 Mile Menu brims with delicious dishes made up of daily harvested produce from the kitchen garden and fresh ingredients from small Cotswolds producers. If you can tear yourself away, go in search of the Fieldhouse, tucked away under the trees, which o ers bespoke treatments, using family-run, natural skincare brand Tribe517. e Village Pub – another PIG triumph – is just across the lane and the cobbled-street towns of Burford, Bourton-on-the-Water and Bibury are a stone’s throw away. Doubles from £415 +44 (0)3452 259494; thepighotel.com
Barnsley, Gloucestershire
e rst PIG pub – and, unsurprisingly, it’s simply gorgeous. Just four miles from Cirencester, this Grade II-listed inn is rurally located in the lovely village of Barnsley and comes with all the delightful touches you could want. e pub started life as three cottages, which were converted in the early 18th century. Today, there are six gorgeous bedrooms tucked into the eaves. Each one is di erent – but all are naturally stylish, with Egyptian cotton bedlinen on a sumptuous mattress and en-suites with a monsoon shower. e food is proper pub food done well – very well. Tuck into the likes of bangers and mash, smoked haddock sh cakes and pork chops with brandy sauce. All complemented by local gravity fed ales straight from the barrel, ice-cold IPAs and Guinness on draft – and a serious wine list to match. e following morning, a traditional full-cooked English breakfast sets you up for the day. THE PIG – in the Cotswolds is just across the lane – here, you can enjoy a treatment at their magical spa or book a table at the restaurant, with its superb 25 Mile Menu.
Doubles from £165 +44 (0)1285 740421; thevillagepub.co.uk
Malmesbury, Wiltshire
is beautiful, Grade II-listed Cotswold manor house hotel, set in 12 acres of gorgeous English gardens, makes a popular choice for Londoners who crave a grown-up, gourmet getaway. e hotel is close to the market towns of Malmesbury and Tetbury, as well as King Charles’ Highgrove and verdant Westonbirt, the National Arboretum. Serene, cosy and dog-friendly, it has 23 elegant rooms and suites, a cinema, and large spa, featuring a hydrotherapy pool, a thermal suite with sauna and a Himalayan salt cabin. Executive chef Ricki Weston showcases British ingredients with innovative air, earning the hotel’s Dining Room a prestigious Michelin star. Guests can savour exquisite tasting menus, expertly paired with wines, and experience heritage cooking techniques rst-hand.
Additionally, Grey’s o ers a more relaxed dining experience with a neighbourhood eatery vibe. Committed to sustainability, Whatley Manor has earned silver accreditation with EarthCheck and is aiming for gold in 2026, with ambitious targets to reduce their impact on the planet.
Doubles from £379 +44 (0)1666 822888; whatleymanor.com
Kingham, Oxfordshire is beautiful 17th-century inn built from golden Cotswold stone is an idyllic place to dine, drink and sleep. Slow luxury is at the heart of e Wild Rabbit – which comes from the Daylesford Stays stable –with sustainability and nature woven through every detail of its pub and cottages.
e bar is welcoming with open log res and comfy armchairs, and is generously stocked with wines from independent vineyards, craft beers and local ales. With a menu of signature seasonal cocktails, settle in by the log re or take your drink on to the sunny terrace on warmer days to while away an afternoon.
e Wild Rabbit’s elevated dining room re ects an intimate connection to the produce on its doorstep, serving thoughtfully crafted and imaginative dishes. Constantly evolving and changing with the seasons, the menu is designed to make use of fresh ingredients at their peak, with as much emphasis on local provenance as possible.
e high-ceilinged dining room is light- lled and bright and has been featured in e Michelin Guide. e kitchen is open so that diners can experience the theatre of the chefs at work, creating an atmosphere that feels dynamic and lively.
irteen pub rooms have been designed to feel warm and welcoming, with hand-picked antiques, books on the shelves and playful linocuts by Hugo Guinness. ey o er all the considered touches you would expect from a stay: ne linen sheets, botanical products in the bathroom and other thoughtful additions to ensure a comfortable, memorable experience.
ere are also 34 traditional Cotswold stone cottages, each one within a two-mile radius of Daylesford Farm, including 13 in Kingham – a short walk from e Wild Rabbit.
During your stay, explore Daylesford Farm with walking trails ranging from 40 minutes to two hours. Discover Daylesford’s farmshop and retreat in the Bamford Wellness Spa, which o ers pampering spa days, massages and facials, plus yoga and pilates classes.
Doubles from £152
+44 (0)1608 692866; thewildrabbit.co.uk
Rolling hills, hidden valleys, and a streak of urban edge – the Mid Country fuses countryside calm with culture, creativity, and serious cool
Baslow, Derbyshire
For a warm Derbyshire welcome and with the stunning Peak District on your doorstep, this 250-year-old former coaching innturned-country house hotel on the Chatsworth Estate ticks all the boxes, and then some.
e elegant interiors by Nicola Harding are inspired by Chatsworth’s art, history and people. Cue walls crammed with artwork sourced from the Devonshire family’s collection, with pieces by Elisabeth Frink, Phyllida Barlow, Lisa Brice, Elizabeth Peyton and Jeremy Deller, to name but a few.
e 28 supremely comfortable bedrooms, including two suites, come with antique furniture, stone replaces and stunning views across Chatsworth Park. Punches of colour and texture add a sense of fun, from playful lamps made by a Chatsworth-based potter to upholstery and fabrics woven in Derbyshire and Yorkshire.
Dining here is utterly thrilling. With executive chef Adam Harper at the helm, the elegant three-AA rosette Gallery Restaurant serves imaginative food using the freshest ingredients from the estate or local farmers.
Alternatively, there’s the Garden Room, with fantastic views across the estate (take a table on the terrace). Service is relaxed, and the menu features an ever-changing selection of seasonal favourites (try the Chatsworth Gold Beer Battered Fish & Chips). e afternoon tea is also superb and done properly with fresh sandwiches and buttermilk scones handmade by the pastry chef. Work up an appetite with a walk across parkland, spotting the roaming semiwild deer, towards Chatsworth House.
For a theatre-style, private dining experience, book the Kitchen Table which can host up to six guests. Perfectly positioned for a behind-the-scenes look at the busy kitchen, diners can chat to the chefs while they prepare a bespoke menu. Enjoy a glass of wine or a local gin beforehand in the 1950s-style bar, surrounded by an eclectic collection of 21st-century photography and Devonshire family photos. Just perfect.
Doubles from £210
+44 (0)1246 582311; cavendishhotelbaslow.co.uk
Of all the luxury British country-house hotels that have opened in the last half-century, just one, Hambleton Hall, has remained impervious to fortune and is as magical and enveloping as the day its owners, Tim and Stefa Hart, founded it 45 years ago this July. Contented but never complacent, it o ers sophisticated yet deeply comfortable classic English interiors, the brilliant, locally sourced cooking of executive chef Aaron Patterson and head chefs Charlie Jones and James Stone (the hotel has held a Michelin star for 43 years – the record in the UK) and a joyous wine list curated by revered sommelier Dominique Baduel. For those seeking privacy, the Croquet Suite is a cottage for four, adjacent to the hotel. ere is also a swimming pool, tennis court, and views across Hambleton’s south-facing terrace and formal gardens that take your breath away. After an afternoon in the fresh air, Hambleton’s a cionados return to their haven, where loyal key sta – general manager, restaurant manager, chef, sommelier, housekeeper, receptionist, laundress – have notched up over 200 years of service between them.
Doubles from £395 +44 (0)1572 756991; hambletonhall.com
Nottingham
Hart’s is an award-winning 32-bedroom boutique hotel in Nottingham city centre, featuring a private car park and a secluded garden. One of the highest-rated hotels in the region, it was purpose-built on the old ramparts of Nottingham Castle in 2003, with striking lines, curved buttresses, and a dashing yet welcoming lobby. Bedrooms are impeccably designed, with high ceilings and ample natural light. Six have private terraces with direct garden access, and most outward-facing rooms o er stunning views across the city and countryside beyond. In the foreground lies e Park Estate, a collection of Victorian residences developed by the Duke of Newcastle, now a conservation area. Hart’s Kitchen is an intimate restaurant with two-AA Rosettes for culinary excellence. e menu features classic British dishes made using the best seasonal ingredients. Owner Tim Hart has a passion for wine and personally selects every bottle on the list. A traditional Afternoon Tea is also served daily, featuring freshly-made treats paired with either loose-leaf Jing Tea or Hart’s very own blend of locally roasted co ee from 200 Degrees in Nottingham. Doubles from £169 +44 (0)1159 881900; hartsnottingham.co.uk
Langar, Nottingham irty years ago, when Imogen Skirving opened the doors to her apricot-washed Georgian house, she dreamt that people would feel as if they were in a home from home. Fast forward to today and Imogen’s granddaughter, Lila, and daughter Louise, are staying true to her vision. Set at the end of a lime tree avenue, this country oasis combines the charm and quiet eccentricity of an English country home with just the right amount of modern. e stylish bedrooms are a ne example – book the romantic Bohemia, once an artist’s studio, or bed down in e Agnews Chalet on the Croquet Lawn with its own veranda. e food (‘classic English with a twist’) is equally cosseting, lovingly cooked by longstanding executive chef Gary Booth. Local produce is the big thing, with dishes such as Belvoir pheasant, pancetta, BBQ swede and sloe berry. To top it o , the sta are fantastic: familiar faces can always be found welcoming you at the front door alongside the maître d’hôtel Michael Addison, who ensure ambiance and experience is top of the list. You feel like you have ‘come home’.
Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1949 860559; langarhall.com
Leamington Spa, Warwickshire
Part of the Eden Collection of hotels –including the splendid Bovey Castle in Devon (see page 34) – Mallory Court is the sort of country-house pad that has it all: rolling countryside, good food, a ne spa, and gorgeous bedrooms. Plus, one of the country’s greatest landmarks, Warwick Castle, is just down the road (not to mention Stratford-uponAvon, only 14 miles away). e Grade II-listed, Lutyens-style house, completed in 1916, is charming, with wood panelling, leaded windows, and a terrace overlooking landscaped gardens and burbling water features. In contrast, Orchard House – tucked among the trees in the hotel’s ten acre glorious grounds – encompasses the sparkling Elan Spa, which o ers blissful treatments, using GAIA and Temple Spa products, alongside an outdoor vitality pool and a glazed sauna. On the rst oor are 12 sleek bedrooms; choose between these and the more classic rooms in the main house. Food is a highlight, with Sencha o ering a fabulous Asian menu while the award-winning dining room champions local produce – plus both the superb afternoon tea and Sunday Lunch should not be missed.
Doubles from £229 +44 (0)1926 330214; mallory.co.uk
Our very own Big Sky country serves up pretty-in-pink villages, windswept beaches that go on for miles and cultural hotspots galore
King’s Lynn, Norfolk is charming Georgian house is set in 50 acres of Norfolk countryside, beautifully cared for by owners Nicholas and Ruth Dickinson. It sits just ve minutes’ drive from Sandringham and 20 minutes from the amazing stretches of Norfolk beaches. Inside, a lovely stone oor graces the elegant hall with its grey-green walls, antique furniture, sofas in front of the re, and vases of fresh garden owers. To either side is a drawing room and library, and there’s also a slick bar. e Samphire Kitchen restaurant is airy and relaxed, o ering locally sourced dishes such as pressed beetroot with goat’s curd, followed by baked hake with parsnip velouté and rhubarb crumble tart. e bedrooms are all impeccable and comfortable, divided between the house (the top- oor rooms are small but lovely), the garden wing next to the pampering Secret Garden Spa, and ve orchard cabins with outside baths among the trees. e house rooms are cool and classical in style, making havens in which to unwind. Afternoon tea is a delight here; afterwards, walk it o , swim in the indoor pool or explore the 30 acres of gardens and woodland – among the best in England.
Doubles from £199 +44 (0)1485 600250; conghamhallhotel.co.uk
Great Massingham, Norfolk
In picturesque Great Massingham, e Dabbling Duck is a successful village pub, run with great warmth by experienced, hands-on owner-manager Mark Dobby and his wife Sally, a professional photographer whose prints decorate some of the walls. As soon as you walk in the door, you’re struck by the cosy, rustic decoration: wooden oors, tables, and bar; hops hanging from beams; and shelves of books. ere are 13 bedrooms (some dog-friendly) – including three garden rooms – plus Duckling Cottage, a few doors away, which sleeps six. Sally and Mark have also renovated the house next door, adding four spacious bedrooms with roll-top baths and walk-in showers. e pub has a welldeserved reputation for its own Mucky Duck gin, real ales, and a well-curated wine list. e terri c food is made using local produce and prepared by skilful chef Dale Smith. ere’s also a beautiful oak-beamed barn with a cosy wood burner, an outdoor bar, and a kitchen serving pizza and tapas on Fridays and Saturdays. e barn opens up onto the lovely pub garden, which has a play area for little ones. Doubles from £110 +44 (0)1485 520827; thedabblingduck.co.uk
Ringstead, Norfolk
Nestled in the picturesque village of Ringstead, this charming 17th-century coaching inn has been welcoming guests for 350 years. Just a stone’s throw from the scenic North Norfolk coast, it is perfectly positioned for exploring the region’s nest sights, with the best of Norfolk within easy reach. Renowned for its avour-packed seasonal cuisine and sun-trap garden, the inn’s ingredient-led menu celebrates local produce, much of which is sourced from the nearby coast. e history of the inn is woven into its character, with low black beams and gin-trap light ttings in the bar, contrasting beautifully with the soft pastels and airy ambience of the conservatory dining space. ere are ten uniquely designed rooms and suites, featuring glorious freestanding cast-iron baths and far-reaching countryside views. Guests looking for additional space and privacy can choose from three charming two-bedroom cottages. A stay at e Gin Trap Inn wouldn’t be complete without indulging in the chef’s signature breakfast –a heavenly combination of bagels topped with house-made 88 percent chocolate spread, roast bananas, and maple syrup.
Doubles from £120
+44 (0)1485 525264; thegintrapinn.co.uk
orpe Market, Norfolk
Art dealer Ivor Braka’s recreation of a particularly delightful 19th-century coaching inn, with the help of designer Robert Kime, has been wowing guests ever since it opened in 2011. ‘In the words of Dolly Parton,’ Ivor says ironically, ‘it took a lot of money to look this cheap.’ Inside, the 16 bedrooms are decked out with sumptuous furnishings, printed wallpaper and traditional dark wood furniture, contrasting with the edgy, sexy art on the walls by all the big names: Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst, Lucian Freud... the list goes on. In the bathrooms, the marble was sourced in Egypt from derelict mansions in Alexandria. e hotel’s eclectic look is helped by the quirkiness of the gabled int building itself, which sits inside vast, deer- lled Gunton Park. In the kitchen, Stuart Tattersall presides over delicious, imaginative dishes, including grills on an open re that guests tuck into at sharing tables – the seafood and Cromer crab are all caught by local shermen and fresh organic produce is sourced from the hotel’s very own walled garden. If you stay in Ellis (named for gamekeeper James Ellis), don’t miss the old prints by the dressing table – unless, that is, you objected to Emin’s naughty plates above the bar.
Doubles from £145
+44 (0)1263 832010; theguntonarms.co.uk
Weybourne, Norfolk
Dating back to the 16th century, e Maltings was once used for malting barley for beer production. After a three-year renovation project, e Maltings opened in August 2024 as a super-stylish destination. At its heart is e Grain Store, a vaulted int barn restaurant, with a cobbled terrace. eir take on modern British cuisine is creative yet unpretentious; on each table you will nd thoughtfully sourced, simply prepared food. But it’s not all about the food – tucked away behind the games room is e Bottle Shop, its shelves lined with wines waiting to be discovered and enjoyed. e 28 dog-friendly bedrooms span the Main House, int cottages and converted stables. Packed full of character, each room is individually designed, with restored int work, marble tiles, original replaces and architectural quirks. Modern bathrooms and furnishings bring it right up to date. Wander down to the sea and breathe in the fresh air. On return, unwind in the Boldings Bar, play chess, settle in the library and simply make yourself at home in this quiet pocket of North Norfolk.
Doubles from £145 +44 (0)1263 804731; themaltingsweybourne.com
Moulton, West Su olk e village of Moulton in the West Su olk hills is the quintessential rural idyll: a village green, thriving local shop, meandering river and an award-winning pub. At its heart sits e Packhorse Inn, a short trot from Newmarket, the British headquarters of horse-racing. e rst and founding inspiration for the Chestnut Collection, which includes e Gin Trap (p107) and e Maltings (p108), e Packhorse Inn provides a winning combination of great food, beautiful bedrooms and cheerful service. e modern British food champions local produce to create regularly changing seasonal menus, which call for long lunches and relaxed suppers. Sta are always on hand to recommend the perfect wine pairings. e 16 generously proportioned bedrooms are spread across the main building, courtyard and the timber-clad barn; each is individually designed, inspired by French country, Scandi cool and grand Parisian style. ere’s all you could need for a restful night’s sleep: crisp Egyptian cotton bed linen, indulgent king and superking beds and free-standing baths. And, to top it o , dogs are very welcome too. Doubles from £135 +44 (0)1638 751818; thepackhorseinn.com
Dedham, Essex e Sun Inn, on the Essex-Su olk border in the heart of Constable country, is a charming base from which to explore pretty Dedham Vale. Rent a boat on the River Stour (a ve-minute stroll away) or borrow bikes from the pub – sta will even make you a picnic to take with you. e bright yellow façade of this independently-owned handsome old coaching inn beckons you inside, where thick beams and meandering wooden oors, open res, and an elm bar (often lined with locals and their dogs) create a warm atmosphere. ere are boules in the garden, magazines and travel books to read, board games to play, and deep sofas to sink into, plus seven individually decorated bedrooms with centuries-old character and sumptuous beds – the perfect place to unwind. e restaurant’s seasonal modern British food is big on avour, inspired by great local produce: think homemade pasta, excellent sh from East Coast day boats, local meat, fruit and veg, and game in season. Plus, there’s a stellar selection of local ales and an eclectic wine list brimming with rare nds.
Doubles from £185
+44 (0)1206 323351; thesuninndedham.com
Mersea Island, Essex is pub with rooms reopened in June 2022 after a nine-year closure and following a seven-month refurbishment. It is part of the same family as cheerily yellow-fronted e Sun Inn, Dedham (p109). On England’s most easterly inhabited island, it sits opposite the church green and minutes from the beach. Six cosseting, colourful rooms (one has a sea view, others look over the green) all have superking beds, huge walk-in showers and contemporary local art. e seasonally changing menu features local ingredients: oysters and seafood, fruit and vegetables grown on the island and meat from East Anglia. Highlights are Mersea skate with samphire, Jerusalem artichoke, caper and butter; wild mushroom ravioli with black cabbage; wild duck with mulberries; and Sunday roasts. Relax in the snug or head out to explore, from beach strolls to a circuit of the island (around four hours), boat trips to watersports and bird watching. ere are also bikes to borrow and car charging on site. Do check the hotel website before setting o – high tide cuts the island o from the mainland once a day.
Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1206 583212; whitehartinnmersea.co.uk
First of all, where is it? We’d head to the Cotswolds, around the Broadway area, pausing en-route at Bibury. William Morris once described Bibury as ‘the most beautiful village in England’ and in my mind it is the perfect version of the Cotswolds – all 17th century houses sloping along hills.
Solo trip? I would be travelling with my husband, Scott. We adore a staycation and have explored a lot of the UK. I am mainly the driver and he is in charge of the playlist and car snacks.
Big or small hotel? We love a luxury boutique hotel – all the home comforts with great interior design and service, service, service. If I could check in anywhere, it’d be Dormy House on the Farncombe Estate, again in the Cotswolds. How do you like your eggs? Fried over easy, please. And your coffee? In spring/summer an iced latte, and in colder months a cappuccino.
Hidden Gem Galleries
De La Warr Pavilion
An arts centre by the sea with revolving exhibitions, housed in an iconic modernist building.
Where? Bexhill on sea, East Sussex, dlwp.com
The Hepworth Wakefield
The award-winning waterfront gallery named for Barbara Hepworth has a focus on sculpture. Where? Wakefield, West Yorkshire, hepworthwakefield.org
Leeds Castle
A glamorous restored castle featuring 23 woven tapestries. Bafflingly, this is in Kent. Where? Maidstone, Kent, leeds-castle.com
How do you like to discover a place you’re staying in? I am type A when it comes to planning trips: I like to fully research the hotels, the area, the restaurants, and things to do. My husband and I have a league table for all the places we visit. Our scoring system rates the hotels out of ten across service, ambience (including amenities), and food. We rarely give a 30 out of 30; Dormy House is a full marks stay. Does your ideal Saturday night away involve dancing? is type of weekend escape wouldn’t – it’s all about the pamper, nature, food, and relaxation. But one of my favourite nights of all time in the UK was dancing at the Secret Cinema Bridgerton Experience. My husband and I wholeheartedly embraced the theme and I ended up being presented to the queen as a potential ‘diamond’ of the season.
What's your cocktail order? Either a Pornstar or Espresso Martini.
And if you’re staying in? A fantastic meal with an equally good bottle of wine: a New Zealand sauvignon blanc or an English sparkling, like Nyetimber. If you go for a walk, where will you go? Walking in the Cotswolds is so beautiful. We have done many hikes in the UK – from Ben Nevis to the South Downs – but on this trip, we would take a nice walk up to Broadway Tower and enjoy a co ee and cake in the village before the walk back.
Will you be doing any exercise? If the weather is nice enough we might go kayaking, or take a workout and swim in the hotel.
What are you reading? Something escapist. When I’m away, I want pure easy-read fantasy. Currently, that is Sunrise On e Reaping by Suzanne Collins.
What are you watching? is type of trip would involve no TV. e only viewing option would be if we found a pop-up outdoor lm screening, like Luna Cinema
Anything else that would make the weekend perfect? If the British weather would be kind and give us some beautiful sun it would make the weekend 10/10. n
From cosy pubs with crackling fires and proper food to sweeping Edwardian piles, a trip to the north country is swathed in history and mystique
York, Yorkshire
Originally built in 1906 as a Palace of Business for the North Eastern Railway Company, e Grand, York lives up to its name, retaining much of its Edwardian splendour. Located in the heart of the historic city, this ve-star hotel seamlessly blends heritage with modern luxury. e 207 beautifully designed rooms and suites are split across two wings – the original building, with its grand high ceilings and architectural quirks, and the contemporary wing. Categories include Grand Family Rooms, for families of four (with space for extra beds and travel cots) and the penthouse suite, which has views of York’s skyline from the rolltop bath.
Guests can also enjoy access to the serene spa facilities (and gym for the not so-serene), which include a 14m pool, Nordic dry sauna, steam room, Jacuzzi and relaxation lounge. Spa treatments range from a tension-busting hot stone massage that improves circulation to a full body detox featuring a purifying mud mask and face and scalp massage.
Diners are spoilt for choice. ey can opt for Legacy, a three-AA Rosette ne dining restaurant o ering a tasting menu focused on seasonality, locality, and that pays homage to York’s past, or e Rise Restaurant Terrace & Bar, serving modern British cuisine in a brasserie-style setting. At the latter, watch chefs preparing dishes in the open kitchen, such as crispy skin pork belly with bean and sausage cassoulet, surf and turf, lobster and prawn tagliatelle, and sweet potato and chickpea burgers. e quintessentially British afternoon tea is not to be missed either: it is a treat for both the eyes and tastebuds. Evenings begin with drinks on the terrace before winding down with a whisky, martini or Yorkshire ale at e 1906 Bar, an intimate space with comfortable loungers and live music on Friday and Saturday evenings. For hands-on foodies, e Grand, York is also home to an award-winning Cookery School where classes include everything from bread-making to beef Wellington, and from Goan curry nights to a half-day dedicated to an Italianthemed feast. Look out for the parent-child courses to get your little ones started young.
Classic Room from £209
+44 (0)1904 380038; thegrandyork.co.uk
Ripon, North Yorkshire
A shining north star, Grantley Hall is a real destination for luxury, fun and ne dining. Dating back to 1680, this Grade II*-listed mansion house on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales boasts an English Heritage-listed ornamental Japanese garden in its grounds. Opened in 2019, following a huge restoration project by the Sykes family, the Georgian mansion’s Palladian beauty has been restored to its former glory, capturing its elegant grandeur as well as adding several new buildings. Guests are spoiled rotten, with 47 beautiful bedrooms, an indulgent spa and wellness o ering, an engaging programme of events, ve exceptional restaurants, including pan-Asian eatery Restaurant EightyEight, picturesque terraces for alfresco dining, and a glamorous late-night Champagne and cocktail bar, Valeria’s. Foodies will rub their hands with glee because the hotel’s principal restaurant, overlooking the formal gardens, has menus by Yorkshireman and culinary maestro, Shaun Rankin, and one Michelin star. Gastronomic delights, 17th-century splendour and contemporary design all add up to an unforgettable experience.
Doubles from £555 +44 (0)1765 620070; grantleyhall.co.uk
Liverpool, Merseyside
e world’s only Beatles-inspired hotel – and fully worthy of e Fab Four. Set in the heart of Liverpool’s bustling ‘Beatles Quarter’, the hotel sits adjacent to the world-famous Cavern Club where the band rose to fame. Housed in the magni cent Grade II-listed Central Buildings, dating back to 1884, the beautifully restored hotel is steeped in history. Part of Millennium Hotels and Resorts, the 110 rooms are individually designed around the contours of the original building and elegantly furnished with specially commissioned Beatles-inspired artwork decorating the walls. ere are eight room categories – each stylishly-appointed with their own charms. e Lennon Suite is a fan favourite, with a white baby grand piano. When it comes to dining, guests are spoilt for choice. North Sixty4, which has wall-to-wall original Beatles artwork, serves traditional British fare with a contemporary twist, using fresh, seasonal and, wherever possible, locally sourced produce. For a big celebration, book Hari’s Bar, the hotel’s super stylish private events space. During the day, Liverpool’s best sights are all on the hotel’s doorstep for further Beatles fun.
Doubles from £88 +44 (0)151 236 1964; millenniumhotels.com
Headlam, County Durham e Robinson family are exemplary hoteliers, having created not only the quintessential English pub at e Rose & Crown Romaldkirk, but also the archetypal country house hotel at Headlam Hall, located between Barnard Castle and Darlington. Set in an idyllic 17th-century building of pale stone, the hall boasts beautiful walled gardens where guests can play tennis and croquet or simply admire the immaculate lawns and rose borders. From the airy Orangery to the cosy Library bar, the dining options are endless – and the food delicious, with the kitchen sourcing fresh ingredients from the estate’s vegetable, herb, and fruit gardens. Inside, exquisitely proportioned spaces feature wood panelling and elegant, comfortable furnishings. e hotel o ers 38 restful bedrooms and suites, including family and dog-friendly accommodation. ere’s also a stylish self-catering apartment with a private hot tub. Guests can enjoy the nine-hole golf course, a fabulous spa with pool, thermal zone and treatment rooms plus classic cars are available for daily hire in the summer to explore the stunning countryside.
Doubles from £170 +44 (0)1325 730238; headlamhall.co.uk
Forest of Bowland, Lancashire
Charles Bowman, the third generation of his family to run this charming 25-bedroom former coaching inn, continues a proud tradition. Part of the Duchy of Lancaster estate, the inn’s roots date back to the 14th century and it brims with character – from the impressive collection of antiques that include Victorian bathing machines, to the pictures on the bedroom walls. Bookcases are packed with travel and cookery tomes, while the reception area also serves as a well-stocked wine shop with the inn’s own vintner, Bowland Forest Vintners, on-site. Modern-day pampering has not been overlooked, with the welcoming SkinSense treatment room. e food, overseen by head chef Jamie Cadman, who is celebrating his 28th year here, is simple yet re ned, with a focus on locally sourced ingredients. e elevated restaurant o ers compelling window seat views – so breathtaking that conversation often takes a backseat. e road leading to tiny Whitewell descends through the wild, steep-sided Trough of Bowland, opening into a natural amphitheatre of meadows and hills. e River Hodder, with shing available, runs alongside the inn. Doubles from £160 +44 (0)1200 448222; innatwhitewell.com
Windermere, Cumbria
Linthwaite House embodies the perfect Lake District hotel: understated and elegant, yet warmly welcoming and relaxing. e views over Lake Windermere, especially with the sun slanting across the water, are simply unbeatable. e bedrooms o er the last word in lakeside luxury. For those wanting a more back-to-nature experience, there’s a secluded tarn with a private cabin and six Fell Suites among the wooded grounds. Inside, a crackling re welcomes guests in the Hall’s carved mahogany replace, leading to e Bar & Conservatory (on warm days, nab a seat on the terrace, which faces the Coniston Fells). e inspired all-day dining menus feature seasonal and avourful dishes, from lobster rolls for lunch to afternoon tea. For a more re ned dining experience, guests can visit Henrock, overseen by multi-Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan, who sources the freshest Cumbrian ingredients from his Our Farm in Cartmel. Linthwaite House also o ers an array of activities, from croquet and outdoor chess to cycling and rowing. With wedding, events, and conferencing facilities, this hotel truly ticks all the boxes.
Doubles from £265 +44 (0)1539 488600; leeucollection.com/uk
Blanchland, Northumberland is wonderfully characterful and historic inn is owned by e Calcot Collection, one of the nest small hotel groups in the UK. Nestled in the honeystone medieval village of Blanchland, amid the gorgeous North Pennine Moors, this posh pub-cum-hotel dates back to the 12th century. e hotel’s 26 bedrooms range from cosy doubles to grand suites. e dining spaces feature baronial and monastic touches be tting a building that was once part of Blanchland Abbey. e look throughout mingles English country charm and modern sophistication. In the kitchen, head chef Paul Johnson delivers hearty, honest food. Don’t miss ‘Taste of e North East’, an inspired chef’s table series. Featuring the very best guest chefs from the north, a percentage of each ticket purchased goes to a charity of the chef’s choice. ere’s also the restored 15th-century Gatehouse, which serves as a sleek venue for events. During the day, go paddleboarding, walk the moors or explore the stunning countryside by bicycle. Perhaps, best of all, there is little phone signal, so it’s perfect for a digital detox.
Doubles from £204 +44 (0)1434 677100; lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk
York, North Yorkshire
If the exterior of this gorgeous, mellow red brick 1699 house looks straight from a Jane Austen novel, the interior is no disappointment. You’ll nd a magni cent oak staircase, elegant sitting rooms each with a re and views of the ha-ha. e atmosphere is serene and there’s a tranquil spa across the road. Expect classic country house bedrooms, oral bedspreads, homemade shortbread and kind attention from the sta . For dinner, try the catch of the day: perhaps plaice or halibut landed at Whitby, followed by Yorkshire poached rhubarb crumble sou é with vanilla ice cream and white chocolate. A hotel, that is as alluring and comfortable in winter, as it is in summer, when you can stroll through the grounds and make friends with the resident deer. In 1878, Fanny Rollo Wilkinson – one of the rst women to make a professional career as a landscape gardener – moved here. It is where she began to devote her life to gardening, and the historic gardens are well worth a visit. It also makes the perfect base for visiting York. Rescued from decay in the 1980s, Middlethorpe Hall is a National Trust Owned Historic House Hotel.
Doubles from £295 +44 (0)1904 641241; middlethorpe.com
Matfen, Northumberland
Nestled in 300 acres of peaceful Northumbrian parkland, Matfen Hall pairs Grade II-listed charm with ve-star comfort to create a haven of calm luxury. Inside, 63 grand rooms boast high ceilings, twinkling chandeliers, and uninterrupted views of the estate. For the ultimate indulgence, opt for a Luxury Suite, arriving by chau eur to a re ned oasis, complete with an emperor bed, antique furniture and a roll-top bath. When it comes to dining, you’re spoilt for choice. Award-winning Emerald Restaurant is an opulent showstopper, with book-lined walls, decorative ceilings, and a seasonal tasting menu focusing on locally sourced ingredients. Cloisters, set in the original courtyard, o ers relaxed, table d’hôte dining – choose a table on the mezzanine for views of e Great Hall’s magni cent stainedglass window. Spend your days on top-rated parkland golf courses, unwinding in the spa’s glass-roofed pool and thermal suite, or exploring must-see sights like Hadrian’s Wall. In the evenings, settle into the opulent 1832 Bar for a chilled aperitif as the sun sets on the Northumbrian hills.
Doubles from £285 +44 (0)1661 886500; matfenhall.com
Richmond, North Yorkshire
Owner James Allison has spent the past 20 years restoring Middleton Lodge, the 200-acre Georgian estate in North Yorkshire. Today, it’s a place to eat, gather, and pause in the countryside, with individually designed spaces, an estate-to-plate ethos, restaurants, event spaces, a renowned walled garden, and the Forest Spa.
When it comes to overnight stays, rooms are dotted across the estate, and the interiors bring the outdoors in with botanical themes and calming colour palettes. Each space combines the old with the new – some feature grand tin bathtubs, while others o er private Yorkshire garden terraces.
e estate-to-plate ethos means that menus at both the relaxed Coach House restaurant and Forge, the ne dining restaurant, are inspired by the estate’s gardens and surrounding landscape. e menus evolve with the seasons and are both delicious and ever-changing. In February this year, Forge was awarded a Michelin star and retained its Michelin Green Star. is restaurant is open from ursday to Sunday, while the Coach House, with its modern kitchen and bar, is open all week.
In 2014, landscape architect Tom Stuart-Smith redesigned the twoacre walled garden, creating four distinct seasonal areas. is garden can be explored early in the morning by those staying on the estate.
For relaxation, the Forest Spa has been designed to connect guests with nature. It features an outdoor heated pool and bubbling hot tub, a thermal area with sauna, steam room, plunge pool and relaxation space, a pool lounge centred around a log-burning stove, and treatment huts where massages and wellness rituals take place. Experiences have been carefully curated, allowing guests to spend a morning, afternoon or evening unwinding here. Both day spa and day retreat options are available. ere is also a series of events and activities for guests to enjoy, with the estate welcoming local creatives and resident instructors for weekly yoga, ceramic workshops, and even cookery sessions led by the chefs.
e gardeners also host seasonal tours.
Powered by biomass heating and featuring its own biodigester, sustainability is at the heart of the estate.
Doubles from £235
+44 (0)1325 377977; middletonlodge.co.uk
Anyone seeking a traditional English inn should look no further than the Rose & Crown, loved by regulars and rst-time visitors alike for its warmth, character, comfort and good food. Run by the Robinson family, who also own the popular County Durham hotel, Headlam Hall (p114), this 18th-century coaching inn continues to do what it has always done so well: ne hospitality in a beautiful rural location. ere are thick stone walls, beamed ceilings and stone res, with enough contemporary touches to blend old-fashioned charm with modern comfort. Great food is at the heart of the inn, showcasing local ingredients of good provenance: typical dishes might include poached pear with burrata or loin of Teesdale lamb. e 14 bedrooms display a faultless combination of contemporary country design (including modern bathrooms) and terri c character and charm. It’s also brilliantly placed for walking in the spectacular Dales countryside, mountain biking through Hamsterley Forest and y shing on the Tees (tuition can be arranged). Well-behaved dogs are very welcome, too. Doubles from £150 +44 (0)1833 650213; rose-and-crown.co.uk
Ambleside, Cumbria
Dating back to 1835, this handsome white stucco Regency house sits in the heart of the Lake District, at the northern tip of Lake Windermere. Husband and wife duo, Jenna and Jamie Shail, have breathed new life into the property, completing extensive, stylish renovations on the main house’s 15 rooms, some with private terraces, others with balconies overlooking the landscaped gardens and wooded grounds. You can also stay in e Pavilion, which has eight beautiful garden suites, designed with a colour palette of deep, luscious greens, peppered with opulent fabrics, sumptuous furnishings, and luxury amenities. In the restaurant, new head chef Aaron Lawrence draws upon his passion for fresh, seasonal British produce to create an exceptional modern menu, including a delicious Sunday Roast. Dogs are welcome –Rothay Manor even has a dedicated dog wash room with Ru & Tumble dressing gowns, so you can rinse o muddy paws after a day on the fells. is is a bucolic, boutique bolthole, perfectly situated for easy lake strolls and hilly hikes, and a ten-minute walk from the pretty village of Ambleside. Doubles from £320 +44 (0)15394 33605; rothaymanor.co.uk
Sandsend, Yorkshire
A 15-minute walk from Sandsend beach, this gorgeous hotel opened last year after a multimillion-pound renovation. Set on an 80-acre estate with woodlands, a lake and gardens, the 19th-century Saltmoore House has interiors inspired by its surroundings. Snug rooms in the eaves, for instance, have striped wave-like bedheads and coastal blues while Divine rooms take their cues from golden gorse. ere’s also the family-friendly Beach House (with its own bar and reception, and pizza restaurant opening in June) and cottages where pets are welcome. Head chef Adam Maddock – along with consultant chef Tommy Banks, of the Michelin-star Black Swan at Oldstead –whips up elevated classics that celebrate local produce in e Brasserie restaurant. Fine-dining Calluna is slated to open at the end of the year and the Orangery leads to a terrace for summer evening cocktails and alfresco suppers. One big draw is e Sanctuary spa, for Wildmith treatments and a thermal circuit, but there’s also plenty to do nearby, including visiting the coastal town of Whitby, salty sea dips and bracing hikes on the North York moors.
Doubles from £350; +44 (0)1947 661661; saltmoore.co.uk
Ashbourne, Derbyshire
Surrounded by 35 acres of gardens at the edge of the Dove Valley, Victorian Callow Hall opened in September 2021 as the rst opening from Wildhive, a new hotel brand focusing on rural getaways. Stay in the main house where rooms with an eclectic, playful feel are the vision of interior designer Isabella Worsley, or in one of the 11 cosy, tucked-away woodland hives. ere are also two spectacular self-contained treehouses, each with an outdoor tub on the deck. e wellness centre in e Coach House has a Pilates studio, sauna and steam room, botanical massages on the treatment menu and bicycles that guests can borrow to pedal along the scenic Tissington Trail. Picnic by the burbling Bentley Brook and take afternoon tea on the lawn but do leave room for the seasonal dishes using British produce at dinner – goats cheese tortellini with wild nettle pesto and a garlic and treacle-cured Packington pork belly with dget pie, Yorkshire rhubarb, purple kale –in the Garden Room restaurant. A gorgeous retreat, perfectly positioned at the gateway to the Peak District.
Doubles from £214 +44 (0)1335 300900; wildhive.uk
Don’t steal the slippers. These are the much more stylish souvenirs you can purchase (lawfully) from British hotels, says TESSA
1 e Standard London bathrobe, $195, shopthestandard.com. 2 Bertioli by yme Silk sleep mask, £55, bertioli.co.uk. 3 Four Seasons x Paper London collection, from £25, paperlondon.com. 4 Gleneagles Summerill & Bishop collab linen napkin, £110, shop.gleneagles.com. 5 Rosewood Lakes Distillery Scarfes Bar anniversary edition whisky, £250, lakesdistillery.com. 6 Estelle Manor Raj side plate, £250, themuse.estellemanor.com. 7 Claridge’s Afternoon tea set, £1,800, shop.claridges.co.uk. 8 e Newt Paper apple decorations, £13, shop.thenewtinsomerset.com. 9 Soho Home Beaumont cocktail shaker, £95, sohohome.com. 10 Chewton Glen Mozzo seasonal co ee, from £11.75, mozzoco ee.com. 11 e Fife Arms Gathering jumper, £575, fearms.com.
A walker’s paradise, whether national park or Black Mountain peak, fetching valley or feted coastline, Wales implores us to explore
Skenfrith, Monmouthshire
Contemporary and cosy rarely coincide, but this stylishly-converted 17th-century coaching inn is one place that convincingly combines the two. e Bell has been winning awards since 1999, when it was fully restored. Despite several major oods, committed owner Sarah Hudson has been busy since she took over in 2014, rebuilding and maintaining its warm atmosphere and enhancing its reputation for seasonal food. e hotel has a magni cent setting beside the River Monnow, with oak beams, antique furniture and comfy sofas beside the res inside, and a pretty garden terrace for warm weather. Dogs are always welcome and even have their own ‘pooch parlour’. In the candlelit agstone dining room, modern British dishes (with ingredients from the kitchen garden) are supported by a well-organised wine list. Many of the 11 sophisticated bedrooms, each charmingly named after a trout y, have beams, four-posters and billowing white duvets. Momouthshire is renowned for its miles of country walks and e Bell has created six of its own mapped circular walks in and around the Skenfrith area – a brilliant way to explore.
Doubles from £185 +44 (0)1600 750235; skenfrith.co.uk
Llandudno, North Wales
Bodysgallen Hall is a digni ed, gentle-paced oasis of calm, only a short distance from Llandudno’s famous promenade and beaches. Climb its tower – the medieval core of the ne 17th-century mansion was allegedly built as part of the outlying defences of Conwy Castle – and you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view that includes the mountains of Snowdonia National Park. e Grade I listed house is lled with character, and boasts 15 bedrooms and 16 postcard-pretty cottages within the estate’s 200 acres of wooded parkland. Grass terraces overlook the award-winning gardens, which include a walled rose garden, follies, a cascade and a rare 17th-century parterre of box hedges enclosing herbs. ere is a formal dining room in the main hall – Llandudno’s best restaurant, serving delicious, estategrown and locally sourced ingredients in dishes such as butter poached seabass and slow-cooked lamb rump. e former farmhouse now houses the luxurious spa, with a large indoor pool, spa bath, steam room, sauna and treatment rooms. All in all, Bodysgallen Hall is one of the most welcoming hotels in Britain.
Doubles from £290 +44 (0)1492 584466; bodysgallen.com
Hereford, Herefordshire is elegant Grade II-listed Georgian mansion, in a quiet, unrivalled location close to the historic Hereford Cathedral, is owned and run by the Watkins, a local farming family. e 24 bedrooms and suites are stylish and individual, split between the main building and Number 25 Townhouse, where there are eight striking rooms. All o er an array of treats, such as a decanter of sherry and a hospitality box lled with local produce. Light- lled public spaces include the beautiful Waterside Restaurant & Bar, with uninterrupted views over the hotel’s pretty garden and the old castle moat beyond. Head Chef Gabor Katona creates seasonal menus featuring locally sourced and homegrown produce, some from the kitchen garden on the Watkins’ nearby Ballingham Hall Farm. e hotel is very popular with guests and locals, especially for its traditional Sunday roast with the farm’s homegrown Ballingham beef and seasonal vegetables, fruits and salads. Don’t miss its famed afternoon tea either – the best in Hereford. is hotel ts perfectly into its surroundings and ticks all the boxes.
Doubles from £190 +44 (0)1432 356321; castlehse.co.uk
Brecon, Powys e rst of Edmund and Charles Inkin’s three wonderfully unpretentious and enjoyable establishments (see also e Old Coastguard on p38), e Felin Fach Gri n turns 25 this year. Set amid magni cent scenery between the Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons, the old inn has become a sanctuary for food lovers, walkers, and bookish visitors to nearby Hay-on-Wye, famed for its annual Hay Literary Festival. Guests love the honest simplicity and warmth of welcome, along with the colourful and comfortable interiors. Ground- oor rooms – such as the Library, Tack Room, and Aga Room – o er cosy retreats, while upstairs, the bedrooms boast some of the best beds and linens around. Curl up with a book, listen to your Roberts Radio, or simply gaze out at the hills, and you’ll feel truly enveloped in a big embrace. Room Eight, at the top of the building, o ers a glorious vantage point over the elds beyond. After a re ned dinner cooked up by head chef Gwenann Davies, featuring the nest Welsh ingredients, you’ll head for bed with a big smile on your face.
Doubles from £182.50; from £275 including dinner +44 (0)1874 620111; felinfachgri n.co.uk
Snowdonia, Wales
Blissfully located in the tranquil Dee Valley, Palé Hall is a triumph of a countryhouse hotel, with its elegant bedrooms, spectacular food and excellent service. It holds many accolades: it earned one Michelin Key recently and is an AA Five Red Star holder, as well as being part of the esteemed Relais & Châteaux stable. A grand, historic, high Victorian mansion, there are 18 individually styled bedrooms (think reams of Zo any and Sanderson wallpaper), as well as three charming garden suites within the estate grounds (some of which are dog-friendly). is includes two duplexes, created from a sympathetic restoration of the original Victorian Coach House. e food is de nitely worth travelling for: the restaurant boasts three AA Rosettes and holds Wales’ rst Michelin Green Star. Dishes are adapted seasonally, incorporating produce grown in the hotel’s own organic kitchen garden. During the day, work up an appetite with a bracing walk or a spot of shing: the hotel has an idyllic 16-acre garden, plus Snowdonia National Park and the less-explored Berwyn Mountains are just on the doorstep.
Doubles from £320 +44 (0)1678 530285; palehall.co.uk
Narberth, Pembrokeshire is striking country house was derelict when Neil and Zoe Kedward restored it in 2007. Today, it’s a charmingly luxurious hotel. Of the two main façades, one is three storeys high, gleaming white and many windowed; the other is gabled, with arts and crafts elements that continue inside. ere are 25 beautiful bedrooms by top interior designer, Martin Hulbert. All have a view of the gardens, surrounding elds or Preseli Hills, while some of the cottage suites come with fabulous glass box garden lounges. Hulbert was also tasked with creating an inviting traditional Welsh-inspired look for the ground oor, with charming vintage and handcrafted elements. Dinners in the four AA Rosette Fernery restaurant, with stunning wallpaper made from ferns pressed by the team, are a highlight. You can also eat more simply in the relaxed, rustic-style Artisan Rooms brasserie or al fresco in the courtyard, surrounded by apple trees. Whichever you choose, the food is superb; executive chef Douglas Balish’s creations are imaginative, locally sourced and always incredibly delicious.
Doubles from £390 +44 (0)1834 860915; grovenarberth.co.uk
Tenby, Pembrokeshire
is grand Welsh mansion exudes bonhomie, making you instantly relax and feel at home. Owners Lucas and Melanie Boissevain brought the lovely, late 18th-century Gothic house, with its romantic ogee-headed doors and windows, stunningly back to life in 2014.
You enter a spacious hallway with a welcoming wood-burning stove; there follows a bar opening onto a pretty conservatory, an elegant yet homely sitting room and a glamorous candlelit dining room lled with locally collected antiques. Here, you’ll dine on delicious, local and homegrown produce, dished up in imaginative ways – try the halibut and brown shrimp in a homemade bisque.
Melanie’s aesthetic – handily, she has a background in interior design – mixes the elegant and the traditional with judiciously stylish touches. e result? All 12 bedrooms are equally restful and comfortable spaces, some with oral wallpapers, statement bedheads and wood panelling; most with sea views, in which it’s a pleasure to spend time idly looking out of the window. Each one includes a delightful hand-illustrated guide of things to do in the area, which sums up the charms of this exceptional, friendly hotel.
Wander outside and you’ll nd peaceful, beautifully tended gardens that lead towards sweeping views of the sea. Just a 10-minute stroll from the front door lies the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path – a dream route for walkers and ramblers, o ering breathtaking scenery and access to hidden coves and beaches. e hotel’s location within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park also makes it an ideal base for exploring nearby Tenby, heritage sites, and charming local villages such as Saundersfoot and Amroth.
After a morning of adventure, afternoons are best spent with steaming cups of tea and homemade cake in the drawing room or basking in the sun on the terrace overlooking Carmarthen Bay. Breakfasts are also a highlight, with seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, Coaltown co ee and freshly baked pastries. Penally Abbey balances style and soul with ease – a quietly special place where thoughtful details, natural beauty, and warm hospitality come together e ortlessly.
Doubles From £160
+44 (0)1834 843033; penally-abbey.com
Eryri, North Wales
e fantastical landscape of Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park is spellbinding. e stone-fronted mountain hideaway of Penmaenuchaf Hotel ts right in. Perched high above the Mawddach Estuary at the foot of the rugged Cadair Idris, this grand country house is celebrating a new chapter, with new owners Zoe and Neil Kedward. e couple took over in June 2022, growing their Seren family business, a lovely collection of proudly Welsh hotels and restaurants. ere are individually designed bedrooms –all delightful. Traditional style and textures mingle with contemporary touches, with a sprinkling of Welsh arts, crafts and antiques. In the kitchen, head chef Dan Andrée (formerly right-hand man to Hywel Gri th at Michelin-starred Beach House restaurant in Oxwich) and his talented team do a cracking job, using high-quality seasonal ingredients, sourced locally. His menus are a true re ection of the land, with every dish telling a story of the region. Of course, all is topped o by the phenomenal views of Eryri – and this gem of a retreat is the perfect base for exploring this extraordinary region.
Doubles from £ 230 +44 (0)1341 212121; penmaenuchaf.co.uk
Leominster, Herefordshire
Sitting on the banks of the River Lugg, this attractive black-and-white-timbered, 16th-century inn o ers guests the perfect opportunity to unwind. Whether sipping local real ales and cider by the riverbank while spotting wildlife, or relaxing beside a roaring log burner, there’s a sense of tranquillity here. e six original bedrooms are homely and comfortable, but the three beautifully designed garden rooms – decked out with all creature comforts and full of character – are a standout. Each has its own veranda overlooking the glorious, unspoiled Herefordshire countryside. e Riverside is ideally located for walkers, as it’s on the central point of the scenic Mortimer Trail. It’s also perfectly positioned for shing and other country sports. But what people really come here for is the food. Chef-patron Andy Link, a star of the local Slow Food movement, grows 50 di erent fruits and vegetables on-site and specialises in cooking with the best Welsh-border produce. His creative touch with local crops shines through in treats such as hay and meadowsweet ice cream or lavender fudge. Simply the very best – and always fabulous value.
Doubles from £100 +44 (0)1568 708440; riversideaymestrey.co.uk
St Davids, Pembrokeshire, Wales
Once a 19th-century windmill, this boutique hotel sits on the breathtaking peninsula of St Davids, Britain’s smallest city. Wales’ rst contemporary art hotel features over 250 specially commissioned artworks celebrating the local landscape. ese striking pieces set the tone in the 39 generously sized minimalist-style bedrooms, including a suite within the original windmill tower. Each room boasts super king beds, handcrafted furniture, and sweeping coastal views. Opt for a Windmill room with charming original features or an Oriel room for a sleek, modern aesthetic, some with stunning sea views and others designed for dog-friendly stays with private terrace access to the garden. e award-winning, three AA Rosette Blas restaurant serves a superb seasonal menu, showcasing locally sourced ingredients. Indulge in à la carte ne dining, relaxed lunches, afternoon tea, or all-day bar options complemented by an extensive wine list. e hotel’s artful ambiance extends to its elegant lounge and bar, where guests can unwind with craft cocktails, ne Welsh whisky, or locally brewed ales. e menu highlights fresh seafood, artisan cheeses, and delectable desserts inspired by traditional Welsh avours, all with a modern British twist.
By day, wander to the stunning Caerfai Bay or explore the historic St Davids Cathedral, just a short stroll away. For an adventure, take a boat trip to Ramsey Island, home to spectacular wildlife and dramatic coastal scenery, or hike along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path for breathtaking views. Enjoy guided coastal walks, wildlifespotting excursions, or even exhilarating water sports like kayaking and coasteering. Don’t miss visiting Twr y Felin’s sister properties, the 12th-century Roch Castle and the beautifully restored Penrhiw Priory, both o ering luxurious retreats.
After a day of discovery, unwind with a traditional Welsh Cream Tea or a holistic massage in the tranquil treatment room. e hotel regularly hosts engaging events, from thought-provoking talks and live music to hands-on art classes and seasonal celebrations, ensuring every stay is both enriching and inspiring.
Doubles from £180
+44 (0)1437 725555; twryfelinhotel.com
MARTHA DAVIES tracks down the castle stays at which to indulge your inner Traitor
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DOLLARBEG CASTLE, Clackmannanshire
e tower of this imposing and glamorous property in the curiously named county south of Perthshire comes complete with three large bedrooms, a cinema room and even a roof terrace, from which you can enjoy far-reaching views of the Scottish countryside. Sleeps 6. airbnb.co.uk
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AUCHINLECK HOUSE, OCHILTREE, Ayrshire
is spectacular mansion was formerly owned by renowned biographer James Boswell. It boasts seven bedrooms and some particularly breathtaking grounds, which encompass the original castle ruins, an ice house and a grotto. Sleeps 13. landmarktrust.org.uk
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OGILVIE CASTLE, Cairngorms
With the Caingorms National Park as your playground, this restored, 16th-century, seven-bedroom property is a wonder. Gather friends for a feast in the Great Hall, go whisky tasting, or head outside for hiking, cycling, riding and golf. Sleeps 16. luxurycottages.com
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ROSSLYN CASTLE, Roslin, Edinburgh
Rising from the ancient woodland of Roslin Glen, this dramatic castle draped in history dates back to 1622. ere are four bedrooms, open res and plenty of cosy living spaces to explore, plus the famous Rosslyn Chapel, which is only a few minutes away. Sleeps 8. landmarktrust.org.uk
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CORNISH CASTLE, Saltash, Cornwall
With its honey stone dating back as far as 1698, this formidable property stands proudly beside the River Tamar. If country strolls aren’t your style, however, it’s the perfect place for a spectacular Saltburn-style bash spread between the 11 bedrooms, 55 acres of gardens and solar-heated outdoor pool. Sleeps 22. luxurycottages.com
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SCONE PALACE, Perth
W hile you can’t rent the entirety of this Gothic Revival palace, you can book a stay in the newly-reurbished Balvaird Wing, which contains three lavish bedroom suites and a private garden. Peacocks included. Sleeps 6. airbnb.co.uk
This windswept land of rugged straths and glens, icy lochs and lauded single malt whiskies invites stays as cossetting as they are wildly romantic
Princes Street, Edinburgh
Opened last year by Red Carnation Hotels, 100 Princes Street is housed in the former headquarters of the Royal Over-seas League (it was previously a members’ club and retains the same discreet atmosphere).
From the hand-painted mural celebrating Scottish botanists that stretches all the way up the ve-storey staircase to Ghillie’s Pantry, a private dining room with 100 rare whiskies on display, it has a real sense of place. And that’s before you glance out of the windows at Edinburgh Castle or stroll next door to the National Gallery. A handful of tartans by Scottish designer Araminta Campbell cover the bedroom walls, with antiques and nautical design elements woven throughout to narrate the building’s illustrious history. At its heart is e Wallace, a bar, library, tasting room and dining room where executive chef Wilhelm Maree whips up dishes such as Scottish lobster rolls and dry-aged Aberdeen Angus burgers with whisky onions, smoked bacon and Isle of Mull cheddar. Exactly the kind of hearty fare you want after a hike to the top of Arthur’s Seat.
Doubles from £575 +44 (0)131 287 3100; 100princes-street.com
Gullane, East Lothian Chef Tom Kitchin and his wife Michaela opened their rst restaurant in 2006 – e Kitchin, Edinburgh quickly gained a Michelin star after six months. Today, they also operate a modern Scottish restaurant with rooms, e Bonnie Badger, in the enchanting coastal village of Gullane, just outside Edinburgh. Once again, Tom showcases his ‘From Nature to Plate’ philosophy, combining French techniques with East Lothian’s bountiful larder. ere’s an enviable quartet of dining options whether guests wish to dine from the à la carte menu in e Stables, relish exceptional pub classics at Broc Bar, gather in the garden over seasonal favourites straight from the grill or enjoy carefully crafted afternoon tea in the Garden Room. It’s no surprise they hold both a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand and ve AA Gold Stars. But it’s not just about the cuisine. ere are 12 inviting bedrooms and one master suite, spread across the main house and two cottages with close access to the beautiful Gullane coastline. Bring the whole family –children are warmly welcomed with a special ‘Cubs Corner’ and ‘Cubs’ menu, and it’s dog friendly too.
Rooms from £215 +44 (0)1620 621111; bonniebadger.com
Muthill, Crie
Nestled in the historic village of Muthill, in the foothills of the Scottish Highlands, Coorie Inn has nailed that wonderful balance of being somewhere a little less formal yet with elegant bedrooms and top-notch cuisine.
A former 18th-century coaching inn, people keep coming back to this incredibly cosy retreat thanks to buckets of rustic charm wrapped up in all the warmth of genuine Scottish hospitality. e six super-stylish bedrooms feature plush beds and stunning en-suite bathrooms plus all the bells and whistles. Each is beautifully furnished with quirky accents and elegant touches, complementing the rich colour scheme. ere are cots available and well-behaved dogs are welcome, too.
e food is equally impressive. e menu features the best Scottish cuisine, with a creative twist, using locally sourced ingredients, including catch of the day from the local sh supplier. It’s no surprise that Coorie Inn recently scooped top spot in the Restaurant with Rooms category at the Scottish National Hotel of the Year awards. e Sunday roast is absolutely superb – as proved by Coorie Inn’s inclusion in e Good Food Guide ’s prestigious list of the Top 50 Best Sunday Roasts in the UK.
In the morning, a hearty Scottish breakfast will set you up for the day to tackle one of the area’s stunning hikes of which there are many to choose from. ere’s also the grouse moor – keen shots will appreciate the police-approved gun cupboard on-site.
e world-famous Gleneagles Estate is a stone’s throw away for a round of golf – and a visit to Stirling and its majestic castle, which was once a favoured residence of the Stewart kings and queens, is just a 30-minute drive away. Afterwards, unwind with a local beer beside a roaring re in the bar. e friendly and knowledgeable sta top it o , o ering recommendations on the menu, wine pairings, and great insider tips on the area.
Whether it’s a relaxing family lunch, a romantic getaway or a special celebration, you’ll nd pretty much perfection here in this quiet pocket of Perthshire.
Doubles from £170
+44 (0)1764 681773; coorie-inn.com
COLVILLE sets her sights on the UK’s best stargazing spots
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BEAGHMORE STONE CIRCLES, Northern Ireland is ancient Neolithic site consists of more than a thousand stones organised into seven circles, ten rows and 12 cairns – constructed, archaeologists think, to mark lunar, solar or stellar events in an astronomical calendar. If you visit the area at night, you’ll see why: nestled at the foot of the Sperrin Mountains, one of Northern Ireland’s few areas una ected by light pollution, the entire milky way shines on this spot. discovernorthernireland.com
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ISLES OF SCILLY, England e long, low horizons here mean you can spot far more in the night sky –particularly planets – than you would in other built up areas of the UK. St Martin’s, one of Scilly’s hidden gem islands, hosts the annual Dark Skies Week every autumn, with a programme of nightly stargazing, astrophotography and educational talks organised by the islands’ community observatory, luring astronomers of all ages. visitislesofscilly.com
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YORKSHIRE DALES NATIONAL PARK, England is is among only a handful of Dark Sky Reserves in the UK. Made up of huge swathes of natural landscape free from local light pollution, it’s possible to see planets, meteors and even, on occasion, the Northern Lights streaking across the night sky. Visitors are welcome to explore the park at their leisure, or head to one of four Dark Sky Discovery Sites, which are accessible and o er facilities. yorkshiredales.org.uk
4BRECON BEACONS NATIONAL PARK, Wales W hile only an hour or so away from Cardi and Swansea, this park feels miles away from the city hustle. e rst area in Wales to be given International Dark Sky Reserve status – and only the fth in the world –back in 2013, it is perfect for a spot of sky-scanning. e stars shine ultra bright here, and some avid stargazers have reported seeing meteor showers and the milky way on clearer evenings. breconbeacons.org
5 ISLE OF COLL, Scotland Home to some of the darkest skies in Europe, this small Hebridean island was designated a Dark Sky Community in 2013. It boasts clear vistas unspoiled by light pollution (thanks to its community of 200 people, who carried out an audit that replaced all lights that obstructed the view). Winter is the best time to see constellations, and the Coll Community Centre runs regular Dark Sky weekend events throughout the season. visitcoll.co.uk
England’s rst International Dark Sky Park is home to some of the darkest skies in the country, with views of the Andromeda Galaxy, over 2.5m light years away. ere are stragazing spots (with maps) and the Kielder Observatory; winter nights are best for deep sky objects like galaxies and nebulae, while summer skies o er star clusters and shooting stars. northumberland nationalpark.org.uk
If trekking through the woods for a glimpse of the stars isn’t high on your holiday list, then reroute your journey towards Mo at, Europe’s rst Dark Sky Town. Charming and wonderfully bucolic, with a pretty high street and cultivated green spaces ensconced in rolling hills, Mo at’s real wow-factor comes at night, when special street lighting allows for stargazing from the middle of town. visitmo at.scot
e title of Europe’s rst International Dark Sky Reserve goes to Exmoor, a sprawling national park covering parts of Devon and Somerset. Here you’ll nd amazing views of the cosmos, which visitors can see during their own explorations or from Dark Sky Friendly campsites. If you don’t have a telescope to hand, don’t worry: you can hire them from one of the park’s centres. exmoornationalpark.gov.uk
With panoramic views of the night sky, this is a major hotspot for catching constellations and one of only 22 International Dark Sky Reserves in the world, with up to 2,000 stars visible in some of the park’s darkest spots. Skirt to Dalby Forest, a Milky Way-class Dark Sky Discovery Site, for stargazing walks, forest bathing and late night yoga with local guides. northyorkmoors.org.uk
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THE LAKE DISTRICT, England
If you need adventure to break up those quiet moments of stargazing, head to the Lake District. ink constellation-led canoe trails in Coniston, fullmoon night swims in the lakes of Watermillock and skylight-clad glamping pods in Keswick. For more hardcore stargazers, trek further west towards Ennerdale, a remote valley with some of the darkest skies in Cumbria. visitlakedistrict.com
Darks skies festivals and events to book before the year is up
1 Scilly Dark Skies Week 5–11 October 2025, cosmosscilly.co.uk
2 Exmoor Dark Skies Festival
17 October to 2 November 2025, exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk
3 Cumbria Dark Skies Festival October/November 2025 (dates tbc), visitlakedistrict.com
4 Yorkshire Dales Dark Skies Fringe Festival Feb/March 2026 TBC, yorkshiredales.org.uk
Auchterarder, Perthshire is glorious Scottish sporting estate kicks o its second century with a host of new activities – from a thrilling o -road 4x4 experience to padel courts and a climbing wall at the recently launched Gleneagles Sporting Club, and a guided salmon shing adventure on the River Tay (the season ends in October). at’s on top of the already extensive list of country pursuits, meaning that most guests simply stay put after check-in. Elegant bedrooms and suites are spread across the historic main house and newer Braid House. e latter is closer to the pool, gym, beauty lodge and spa, where treatments use own-oil blends featuring natural botanicals from rural Perthshire. ere is also a trio of top golf courses (the Ryder Cup has been hosted here) and adventures for children, such as gun dog handling, tree climbing and riding. en there’s the food: classical ne dining at e Strathearn and two-Michelin starred French-inspired cooking at Andrew Fairlie, followed by cocktails at e American Bar. Or casual fare ranging from Tandoor curries at e Dormy to handmade pastas at e Birnam. A fabulous all-rounder you won’t want to leave.
Doubles from £575 +44 (0)1764 662231; gleneagles.com
Port Appin, Argyll Surrounded by the raw, breathtaking beauty of western Scotland, e Pierhouse sits on the shores of Loch Linnhe. It’s the ideal base for exploring this unforgettable part of the world while indulging in the nest local produce. e 12 comfortable bedrooms, some with loch views, look out directly across to the islands of Lismore and Shuna, with the Morvern Peninsula beyond. Location aside, a stay here is all about the seafood. Head chef Michael Leathley leads the two-AA Rosette restaurant, one of only three in Argyll listed in the Michelin Guide, where he describes his unpretentious cooking style as ‘bringing the outside in’. Expect the freshest West coast seafood – such as creelcaught langoustines and Loch Creran oysters – alongside Scottish meats and vegetables, all prepared using simple yet re ned techniques. After a day spent hiking or biking, relax in the lounge by the wood-burning stove, or head to e Ferry Bar – named after the foot passenger ferry that has been running from Port Appin since 1750. e bar boasts an impressive selection of Scottish gins and over 200 types of malt whisky to sample. Doubles from £155 +44 (0)1631 730302; pierhousehotel.co.uk
Edinburgh
Let’s face it, they don’t make hotels like Preston eld anymore. Or very rarely. It’s romantic, it’s opulent and it’s shamelessly seductive. It has welcomed presidents, princes and stars of stage and screen – everyone from the Dalai Lama to Elton John and Sean Connery. e mansion, in a quiet location just ve minutes’ walk from Edinburgh’s Old Town, gives no hint of what lies inside. Minimalism be damned. ere are swags and columns, brocades and velvets, rich colours and intimate corners. Bedrooms are better described as boudoirs, where velvet, silk and antiques mix with high-tech playthings, and surfaces are scattered with owers, fruit and candles. Suites are even more lavish: a Gothic day bed, a velvet-hung four-poster, silk toile wallpaper, a silver chariot bath. e two oval-shaped dining rooms become a candlelit Gothic fantasy at night, and the food and the hotel’s impressive wine cellar live up to the ambience. Sta are relaxed and friendly, and will track you down in whatever intimate sitting room (there are at least four) you are curled up in. And, once you manage to uncurl, the city awaits.
Doubles from £ 345 +44 (0)131 225 7800; preston eld.com
Kelso, Roxburghshire
A schloss in Scotland? Yes indeed. SCHLOSS Roxburghe, set on a 300-acre estate in the Scottish Borders, was once owned by the Duke of Roxburghe and has hosted many aristocratic guests, including, reputedly, Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745. It now blends traditional Scottish hospitality with German innovation and sky-high standards. Interiors, designed by Kitzig Interior Design, combine classic and contemporary styles with a mix of materials: Scottish patterns and colours, oak, and natural stone. e 78 bedrooms are individually decorated (the newest are in the Estate House, added in 2022 where you’ll also nd the spa and outdoor heated in nity pool); plus 51 self-catering cottages are dotted around the grounds. Estate-to-plate ingredients feature in the ne dining Sunlaws restaurant, where modern Scottish dishes are given a French twist while Charlie’s bistro serves up hearty fare such as roasted llet of hake, ox cheek and baked baby pumpkin. e hotel’s country sporting and leisure facilities are second to none, ranging from shing to the 18-hole championship golf course.
Doubles from £311 +44 (0)1573 450331; schlosshotel-roxburghe.com
Torridon, Wester Ross
A former and still very grand shooting lodge, e Torridon has one of the Highlands’ most stunning locations. As the UK’s most northerly ve-star hotel, it stands on a beautiful sea loch in 58 acres of parkland, with breathtaking views all around. e bedrooms in the main hotel blend its Scottish heritage with Victorian-era features designed by co-owner Rohaise Rose-Bristow, while those in e Stables are simple and cosy (there’s also the newly refurbished Chestnut Cottage, which has an outdoor bathtub). Dine in re ned splendour at 1887, with the very best Scottish produce expertly showcased by head chef Danny Young. e more casual brasserie, Bo & Muc, housed in what was once the estate’s old buttery and dairy, o ers dishes such as pine cured trout, with yuzu, seaweed and buttermilk. At both, menus evolve with the seasons, with much of the meat and vegetables coming from the grounds and kitchen garden. After dinner, head for the whisky bar, which is stocked with more than 350 malts. ere are many outdoor activities on the doorstep too, from kayaking and hiking, to star gazing and loch-snorkelling. Doubles from £305 +44 (0)1445 791242; thetorridon.com
Edinburgh
James omson’s gothic conversion of this historic 16th-century building – named after those burned at the stake for witchcraft on Castlehill – is darkly mysterious and thrillingly exotic. Situated atop Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile, guests enter through an ancient close into a amboyantly theatrical world, where richly gilded ceilings, oak-panelled walls, and lavish tapestries set the scene. Above the restaurant and in the adjacent Jollie’s Close, the nine suites are vast, sumptuous, and wickedly romantic, featuring extravagant four-poster or curtained beds, antiques and oil paintings (the largest is e Old Rectory, which has seven windows with views of Fife in the distance). A favourite haunt of celebrities, e Witchery dining room is as magical as its name suggests, with red leather seats and an atmosphere steeped in gothic charm. Entered via a stone staircase, e Secret Garden restaurant o ers an intimate sanctuary, where candlelit tables sit beneath the grandeur of opulent tapestries. Andrew Lloyd Webber once pondered whether it was one of the prettiest restaurants ever; we have to say yes. Doubles from £595 info@thewitchery.com; thewitchery.com
From rugged coastlines to the rolling emerald hills, Ireland and Northern Ireland enchant with landscapes steeped in history, heritage and timeless charm
Cong, Co. Mayo is magni cent 800-year-old castle on the shore of Lough Corrib was restored by Red Carnation Hotels a decade ago, reopening under the umbrella of the familyowned brand in 2015. Rooms and suites are every bit as opulent as you’d expect, with antique furniture, plush curtains and Murano chandeliers. Plus, there’s a romantic Boathouse for two, dating back to when the 350-acre Ashford Estate was owned by the Guinness family. Dress up for supper in the George V dining room where the signature beef is carved tableside; tuck into steaks cooked on the Josper grill in the medieval dungeon; or keep it casual at the charming Cullen’s at the Cottage. Activity options here suit all ages and interests, from country classic pastimes such as horse-riding and shing to golf and cycling; there is also the oldest falconry school in Ireland and tastings in e Wine Cellars, housed in secret passageways once used by servants. If the weather turns, it’s the perfect excuse to head to the spa, which has recently partnered with Augustinus Bader on treatments, or to watch an afternoon lm at the cinema.
Doubles from €855 +353 (0)94 954 6003; ashfordcastle.com
Grounded on the forested shores of Belfast Lough, the majestic Culloden Estate & Spa is located just outside Belfast. Built as the o cial palace for the Bishops of Down in the 18th century, this ve-star hotel is a reserve away from the noise and restlessness of the outside world. With beautifully secluded gardens, a palatial spa, restaurant and traditional pub, the Culloden is the perfect blend of historic grandeur and modern luxury. Each bedroom and suite is matched with a breathtaking view, coupled with a King Koil ‘cloud bed’ and luxurious linen to guarantee a restful night’s sleep. Across the estate, the culinary o erings are equally impressive, bringing together the best produce Northern Ireland has to o er.
Vespers Restaurant o ers exquisite ne dining, while the Cultra Inn, a traditional pub and bistro, provides a more relaxed setting with a locally sourced seasonal menu. e award-winning spa at the Culloden Estate is not to be missed, providing the perfect escape for those who want to put the world on hold and take time for self-care.
Suites from £790; Garden Rooms from £270 +44 (0)28 9042 1066; cullodenestateandspa.com
Carlingford, Co. Louth
Just an hour from Dublin and Belfast, this Georgian house, built in 1727, has three acres of walled mature gardens and eight acres of stables and elds. ere are 11 elegantly appointed bedrooms, with a roll-top bath and separate power shower, plus breathtaking views of Slieve Foy mountain. Families will love one of the ‘Queen Standard’ double bedrooms with its set of bunk beds. Energye cient features like air source heat pumps have reduced CO2 emissions by 62 percent here. e two AA-Rosette restaurant o ers a fantastic locally inspired menu. Expect succulent Carlingford oysters, mussels, and lamb and beef from nearby Cooley and Mourne Mountains. Two UNESCO World Heritage sites are an easy drive from the hotel: Newgrange (40 minutes) and e Giants’ Causeway (two hours). Closer to home, Medieval Carlingford, with remnants of Norman and Viking invasions, is a short stroll away. Slieve Foy mountain o ers stunning hikes, while the Greenways is idyllic for biking. Whether for a midweek escape or a longer retreat, Ghan House is the perfect base for exploring this beautiful area.
Doubles from €220 +353 (0)42 937 3682; ghanhouse.com
Sitting on the cusp of Cork’s city centre, Hay eld Manor is the city’s only ve-star hotel. e 87 bedrooms are some of the nest and most spacious luxury rooms in Ireland, with each room re ecting the elegance and charm that de nes the Hay eld Manor experience, blending timeless style with modern comfort. Some have stunning views of the hotel’s private gardens, others of the urban skyline. All have carefully-thought-out touches – there’s even in-room golf putters to work on your technique. Orchids Restaurant o ers exquisite contemporary Irish Cuisine created using the freshest local ingredients, while the relaxed Perrotts Garden Bistro in the conservatory is a local favourite. Bloom, made entirely of glass and with retractable walls in the garden, is the latest addition, with a delicious brunch menu and bespoke selection of fruity botanical cocktails. e award-winning Beautique Spa – the rst Elemis spa in Ireland – is one of the best in Cork, with an impressive array of rejuvenating treatments. But, perhaps, best of all is the impeccable service. Genuine Irish hospitality at its nest. Doubles from €540 +353 (0)21 484 5900; hay eldmanor.ie
Kenmare, Kerry
Set in the heart of Kenmare, an hour from Cork, e Lansdowne Kenmare rst opened in 1790 as the Coaching Inn. Today, recently refurbished, this multi award-winning hotel remains timeless as one of the town’s oldest landmarks, o ering genuine warmth, impeccable design and culinary delights –all with a passionate team behind it. e 28 bedrooms have super comfortable beds, stylish bathrooms lined with VOYA products and Roberts radios. With four eateries, the food ticks all the boxes, too, championing local ingredients from within 30 miles. During the day, there’s plenty to enjoy – starting with the breathtaking views of the mighty McGillicuddy’s Reeks and Caha Mountains. Here, the land sweeps gracefully through woodlands to the pier and onto the bay’s 30 miles of shimmering waters o ering countless coves for swimming, daytime cruises or night kayaking beneath starlit skies. Back on dry land, there’s fantastic golf at Kenmare Golf Club – a parkland with stunning landscape. And, for those who like to wander, Kenmare’s streets are alive with artistry, its charming shops and cafés spilling creativity at every turn.
Doubles from €225
+353 (0)64 664 0200; lansdownekenmare.com
One of Dublin’s nest hotels and e ortlessly gracious. Everything feels right, from the location opposite Government Buildings to the twinkly doormen, polished service and classically elegant bedrooms. Four tall and sober Georgian townhouses – one of which was the birthplace of the rst Duke of Wellington – have been opened up to create a series of expansive, welcoming reception rooms with stucco ceilings, peat res, antique furniture and the owner’s outstanding collection of 19th- and 20th-century Irish art, which you can learn about in a discreet audio tour. Just as impressive is the formal garden, graced by Rowan Gillespie’s wonderful statue of James Joyce. e ne dining restaurant is the two Michelin-starred province of Patrick Guilbaud, with the Garden Room Restaurant available for a more casual dining experience. ere’s also a spa with a pillared in nity pool, luxurious spa treatment rooms and hair salon. No surprise that the charming general manager, Peter MacCann, has been in place since e Merrion opened, but it’s quite a surprise to nd that was over 25 years ago. It feels timeless. Doubles from € 375 +353 (0)1 603 0600; merrionhotel.com
Country manor with a party barn or a clutch of charming Cornish cottages with all the perks? These homes are spoton for gatherings big and small
Llandinam, Powys
An intriguing history – and a mini-museum of its own – gives Plas Dinam a certain stately grandeur if you’re looking to rent an imposing country mansion. Yet, it retains a warm and friendly atmosphere thanks to owners Eldrydd and Tyson, who returned from Australia to take over the house from Eldrydd’s parents, Lord and Lady Davies, in 2012. e couple is renowned for going the extra mile to make your stay a magical one, though the re pit, tennis court, stunning views, numerous sitting rooms, and impressive billiard room leave little else to be desired. All 15 bedrooms are traditionally decorated and lled with little luxuries, including Welsh Myddfai skincare products, and there are also nine bell tents alongside wild garlic- lled woodland for summer glamping. A much-loved private family home for many years, its 13 acres of gardens set in the picturesque Severn Valley invite children to explore, while the mansion and Old Stables (now a glass-roofed party barn that seats up to 160) are perfect for large family get-togethers, parties, weddings and weekends away. With log res and a warm colour palette, the house is especially wonderful in winter. From £5,200 per weekend
+44 (0)7415 503554; plasdinamcountryhouse.co.uk
Wadebridge, Cornwall
With the luxurious amenities of a boutique hotel but the privacy of a private home, Trevear Farm on the North Cornwall coast is the perfect place to escape and unwind. ere are eight self-catering cottages to choose from, including Broadview, a grand ve-bedroom home with a hot tub, barbecue, and garden room with a pool table, and the most recent addition, New Cottage, a cosy two-bedroom cottage with a patio and wood-burning stove. If you’re staying at a property on the farm, you have access to an indoor swimming pool, steam room, gym, and wellness room. e farm is ideally located for visiting Padstow and some of Cornwall’s most spectacular beaches. Farm tours are available upon request, and the friendly team can help organise everything from yoga classes to horseriding to water sports for you. O -site they also have Lowen, a fabulous three-bedroom cottage with sweeping views over the Camel Estuary and a heated swimming pool, and Rock View, a magni cent four-bedroom home featuring a sun deck overlooking the same breathtaking estuary.
A weekend stay, from £987 +44 (0)1872 553491; trevearfarm.co.uk
GREGORY TAYLOR singles out five great reads rooted amid UK and Irish shores
1THE HIGH HOUSE by Jessie Greengrass, East Anglia
In a not-so-distant future, much of the world is devastated by climate change. is novel is Greengrass’ depiction of Norfolk from the perspective of the last (wo)man standing. While the view from the hill might be watery, the novel draws on the author’s own experiences living in East Anglia to construct its landscapes. A cli- novel depicting a land worth ghting for.
£8.99, Swift Press
2
JONATHAN STRANGE & MR NORREL by Susanna Clarke, Yorkshire e romantic south and the industrial, no-nonsense north – Clarke’s much celebrated novel ips this stereotype on its head, imagining an alternate Regency history with a cold, mercenary south and a Yorkshire that is wild and deeply magical. Tracking the friendshipturned-rivalry between two magicians, it covers questions of class, race and Englishness.
£12.99, Bloomsbury
3
THE SALT PATH by Raynor Winn, the South West Raynor’s house has been seized and her husband Moth is diagnosed with an incurable brain disease – this autobiographical novel chronicles the newly homeless couple’s decision to hike the South West Coast Path, 630 miles from Somerset to Dorset. Life-a rming in a way that its premise might not suggest, a lm of the book starring Gillian Anderson and Jason Isaacs has just been released.
£10.99, Penguin
4
THE BRIDGE by Iain Banks, Scotland
You’ll probably know Banks for his science ction, but here he crafts a more personal tale set on and around the Forth Bridge that connects Fife and Edinburgh. Alex, a comatose Glaswegian, wrestles with the alienation he feels from his working-class Scottish roots and his lover’s terminal illness. Despite being loaded with symbolism, this novel will really immerse you in the streets of Glasgow.
£9.99, Little Brown
5
THE GLORIOUS HERESIES by Lisa McInerney, Ireland
As ‘Sweary Lady’, McInerney blogged about life on a council estate in Cork, pithily titled Arse End of Ireland. Her debut novel runs with these themes – it’s an arresting and darkly comic exploration of those on the fringes of society in the wake of the 2008 economic crisis. Don’t read it for idyllic pictures of Ireland; this lands you rmly in Cork’s underbelly. £13.99, Hodder & Stoughton
11 Cadogan Gardens 74
100 Princes Street 130
Artist Residence Bristol 44
Artist Residence Cornwall 34
Artist Residence Oxford 62
Ashford Castle 138
Baili scourt 62
Bailey’s Hotel 74
e Bath Arms 44
Bath Priory 45
Batty Langley’s 75
e Beaumont 76
Beaverbrook 63
Beaverbrook Town House 75
e Beckford Arms 45
e Bell at Charlbury 90
e Bell at Skenfrith 122
e Biltmore 77
Bingham Riverhouse 77
Bishopstrow Hotel & Spa 46
Bodysgallen Hall 122
e Bonnie Badger 130
Bovey Castle 34
Bulgari Hotel 78
Bull Burford 91
Carbis Bay Hotel 35
Calcot & Spa 92
Careys Manor Hotel & SenSpa 56
Castle House 123
e Cat Inn 63
e Cavendish Hotel 102
e Chelsea Harbour Hotel 78
e Chelsea Townhouse 79
Chewton Glen 56
Cliveden House 64
Collective at Woolsery 35
Congham Hall 106
Coorie Inn Restaurant & Rooms 131
e Corinthia 79
Culloden Estate & Spa 138
Lainston House
