RISERVA 2019
INTRODUCTION
This is never an easy offer to write — two estates, lots of different vineyards, admittedly only two grape varieties and a number of different vintages to boot.
But it is undoubtedly my favourite. Great wines made in the most beautiful region by a living legend, surrounded by a great team. I have tried to encapsulate the fact that there is always something new to discover in the “World of Conterno”.
We see the full array of wines this year as all the various single vineyards have been made, as well as a return of the Mighty Monfortino after a three-vintage hiatus.
This year, we have also added an accompanying podcast, which sees me joined by Joe Muller and Aaran Eccles to discuss all things Piedmont and a little beyond. Do please have a listen, wherever you get your podcasts, and give feedback.
Enjoy!
WILL HARGROVE, HEAD OF FINE WINE SEPTEMBER 2025
LISTEN NOW ON SPOTIFY
Scan the QR code to listen via Spotify, alternatively, search ‘Unpicked: Giacomo Conterno & NerviConterno’ where you normally access your podcasts. To view the full C&B Podcast Library, visit www.corneyandbarrow.com/podcast
AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA NERVI
“Simply
put, Conterno has very few peers when it comes to exceptionally high quality and consistency.”
ANTONIO GALLONI
It was extremely exciting when we first heard that Roberto Conterno was buying Nervi in 2018. The estate had very much been on my radar before this time due to previous tastings. I liked the wines very much and was sufficiently intrigued and impressed by them. However, that crucial, human link just wasn’t there yet. In 2008, Roberto expanded the great Cantina Giacomo Conterno estate by acquiring a part of the Cerretta vineyard and then Arione in 2015 — he had clearly been on the lookout for opportunities. Those of you who know Roberto will understand that detail is his thing, whether it is in the vineyard, the winery or adding to the family’s holdings.
It is becoming more than something of a cliché these days to say that great wines are “grown and not made”, but it is very clearly the case here. The combination of the soil, aspect, light, and altitude is something of a perfect storm for the Nebbiolo grape. This offer features five wines, all from the Nebbiolo grape. Gattinara 2022 is joined by two 2021 single-vineyard bottlings — Valferana & Molsino.
History
Founded by Luigi Nervi in 1906, Nervi is Gattinara’s oldest operating winery. Luigi’s son, Italo, expanded the company by purchasing vineyards and increasing their cellar capacity. Italo died in 1975 with no direct heirs, leaving his shares in Nervi to other relatives. The company was then sold to Germano Bocciolone in 1991, a steel manufacturing entrepreneur, who embarked on a massive investment programme, including a stainless steel vinification plant, 40 new Slavonian oak barrels and the replanting of the Molsino vineyard. His sons sold the majority share to the Astrup family in 2011. Erling Astrup had asked Roberto Conterno for his opinion before buying, and after tasting older vintages, Conterno said it was wholly impossible not to produce great wine here.
In April 2018, Roberto Conterno acquired 90% of Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi. Between early 2019 and mid-2021, Roberto embarked on and completed a brilliant re-organisation and rebuilding of all the winemaking, maturation and cellaring facilities, as well as the addition of a new restaurant. As you would expect, it is not just any restaurant — strongly recommended and under an hour from Milan Malpensa. The restaurant has a superb team and two wine lists (Contero wines and everything else — including a great range).
THE VINEYARDS
A series of seismic events has given the area of Gattinara a unique soil structure. 280 million years ago, volcanic rocks were created when the Valsesia super-volcano erupted.
Then, when Africa collided with Europe to form Monte Rosa 60 million years ago, these rocks were forced to the surface as gravel. Most of this was washed away over time, except for that of Gattinara’s higher slopes. This has created a unique mineral-rich terroir. The gravel is rich in iron, manganese, zinc and copper. In addition, the high clay content — paralleled by Serralunga d’Alba — and the absence of chalk give rise to acidic soil conditions, perfectly suited to Nebbiolo. Nestled in the foothills of Monte Rosa, the vineyards are protected from northerly winds.
There are 28 hectares (ha) under vine:
Molsino, at 12ha, is Alto Piemonte’s finest south-facing amphitheatre. 7-8ha would ordinarily be considered for the Vigna Molsino bottling. The altitude ranges from 350 to 420 meters.
Valferana is 8ha in size and is particularly high in iron and manganese, up to six times that of other Nebbiolo-producing regions. Around 3-4ha would, at the moment, be considered for the Vigna Valferana bottling. The remainder is for the Gattinara. The altitude is 320m.
Garavoglie is 7ha and was replanted in 2015 with thirteen different Spanna clones, ensuring the original Nebbiolo clones of Alto Piemonte remain an integral part of Nervi vineyards.
Casaccie is the last site, covering approximately 1ha. Pruning and harvesting at all sites is carried out by hand.
THE WINERY
The single vineyard wines — Vigna Valferana and Vigna Molsino — are gently destemmed and crushed. Fermentation is in truncated conical oak vats with native yeasts. Maceration lasts three to four weeks, followed by ageing in old wood for a minimum of 40 months. The sizes of these casks vary, with some up to 76hl.
For the Gattinara, similarly, gentle destemming and crushing are followed by fermentation. The ageing process here lasts 30 months in large, old oak casks or botti.
More than 100 years of wine production have shown that Nebbiolo tannins benefit from a long and controlled ageing process. For this reason, ageing is longer than required by the Gattinara DOCG. As Luigi Nervi said, “Nectar in tempore”: perfection with time.
Two other wines are currently produced, the Rosato and a sparkling Nebbiolo called Jefferson.
THE WINES
Il ROSATO
2024
I find it so hard to taste this wine, as opposed to drinking it, which is a good sign. A vibrant pink in the glass — nothing pale and Provençal here. The nose has spades of red fruit. When served cooler, there is focus with some grip (the Nebbiolo effect). As the temperature rises, the nose is more generous and opulent, with sweeter, smaller red fruits. The palate has a great balance of extroverted ripeness and a little tension. I recommend leaving this out of the fridge (or ice) once you start drinking. Another great rendition of a real favourite. (Fewer than 4000 cases are made).
A note on ageing — recent bottles of 2021 and 2022 were still very fresh. The screw cap helps here. Roberto then got out a 2019, which had evolved into a more savoury wine, of course, but reminded me of Riesling — fascinating.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2028
£116/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
JEFFERSON
2020 (disgorged April 2025)
VINO SPUMANTE DI QUALITA, ROSATO, METODO CLASSICO
Roberto Conterno is a big fan of quality sparkling wine (from the look of the bottle, you may well be able to work out his “favourite” Champagne house) and Nervi has given him this opportunity. Made from 100% Nebbiolo, it is zéro dosage with around three grams added (as is permitted). About 85- 90% of the fruit for this wine is sourced from outside the estate’s own holdings. The first bottling was the 2017, in minuscule quantities. Sadly, 2018 was not much larger. I said a couple of years ago that the production was unlikely to ever exceed 2,000 bottles, BUT Roberto is enjoying this project so much that from 2023 the production should be around 20,000 bottles. Still tiny.
The 2020, the second vintage in the new “livery”. The nose is of soft red berries with a counterbalancing salinity, incredibly moreish. I found this delicious over the course of 30 minutes. It developed over time, changing in the glass with air and temperature. I’ll be fascinated to see how this ages*, not that this is the goal. Perfect on its own, but certainly capable of complementing lighter dishes.
*Roberto hinted that he may be doing some experiments on this front…
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030
£300/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£130/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
GATTINARA 2022
Bottled in July this year. The 2022 vintage in Gattinara was warm (verging on very hot) as well as dry. A similar theme across Europe.
Lovely bold nose, there is a “truckload” of ripe winter strawberries to this. It begs to be drunk. The palate is both lush and long, the tannins enveloped, it presents rich, long tannins. There is a gentle saline edge, less so than with the 2021. This is Nebbiolo for the hedonist. A real candidate for a case to drink and a case to cellar.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2032+
£259/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£668/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
£278/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
GATTINARA VIGNA MOLSINO
2021
A little quieter than the Valferana, that’s not saying much! My note says “juicy but stern”. This is a wine that reveals more and more aroma with air. The palate has echoes of the “silk & cashmere” of last vintage, but with more heft and depth. I am a big fan, but I don’t feel my words do this justice. Both this and the Valferana are serious wines, excitingly so.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2035+
£475/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£1,100/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
£430/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
GATTINARA VIGNA VALFERANA
2021
The two crus — Molsino and Valferana — always enjoy an extra year in bottle before release, both having been bottled in June 2024.
2021 is a cooler vintage than 2022. Additionally, it was hit by hail, and therefore, the production is significantly smaller than usual. I would struggle to say which was better between 2021 and 2022, but 2021 has more structure and 2022 more lushness.
There is opulence to the nose here, jumping from the glass. Almost extrovert. Then with the palate comes more conventional Nebbiolo power and “properness”. I love the uncompromising balance of this Valferana.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2035+
£475/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£1,100/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
£430/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
TASTING GUIDE
Our tasting notes provide full details, but at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown, it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Fiat with a Ferrari, other than that they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE IN THE UK AND HONG KONG
SENSORY WINE GLASS (PICTURED ABOVE)
£340.50 INC VAT PER 6 GLASSES
SYMPHONY SPARKLING WINE GLASS
£363 INC VAT PER 6 GLASSES
CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO
History
Representing the third generation, Roberto Conterno is very much at the helm of this legendary estate. Roberto has a palpable love and profound respect for his inherited terroir.
In 1974, Giovanni Conterno, Roberto’s late father, undertook the fortuitous and massively courageous investment in the 14ha monopole of Cascina Francia, in the commune of Serralunga d’Alba. At 400 metres above sea level, it is planted to 4.6ha of seriously good Barbera and 9.4ha of Nebbiolo — an outstanding site. It is difficult to emphasise the foresight this required. The Barolo trade was far more orientated towards négociants than growers in those days.
In 2008, Roberto stamped his mark on the family history by acquiring three hectares of Cerretta, one hectare of very lovely, forward Barbera, and two hectares of Nebbiolo, also in Serralunga d’Alba. A five-minute drive separates the two vineyards.
Then, in 2015, he added the stunning, highly prized, nine-hectare vineyard of Arione, continuous with Cascina Francia, to the family holdings. Increasing and advancing the estate for the second time, under Roberto’s tenure, this exhibits tremendous commitment to the future by the Conterno family and is a major coup.
BARBERA 2023 VINTAGE
A couple of nights before writing this, I enjoyed a bottle of the 2021 Barbera Francia. I can almost still taste it. I feel that the best Barberas, and Roberto’s are inarguably that, have a specific place in any genuine Piedmont wine lover’s heart. A little like Gamay to Pinot Noir or Syrah to Grenache, they are the darker, juicier side of the coin. The 2023 vintage was, to quote Roberto, “a season of regular weather”. The joy of this being that picking, typically 4-6 weeks before Nebbiolo, could be carried out as desired.
BARBERA VIGNA CERRETTA
2023
Juicy dark cherry and cranberry fruit to the nose, attractive, even precocious. I always love how the differences between Francia and Cerretta are every bit as marked in Barbera as in Nebbiolo. Joyously, little patience is required here. This will hit the ground running, but with the stamina of Mo Farah. The palate is midweight and elegant. Yum.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2034+
£275/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BARBERA VIGNA FRANCIA
2023
Darker fruit, as usual, but with an added approachability. The tell-tale saline edge is there, with the volume a notch lower. This is succulent. There is a real sense of completeness here. You really sense that this must have been straightforward to make. Picked, fermented, and ready for delicious drinking post ageing.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2035
£275/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
NEBBIOLO 2022 VINTAGE
NEBBIOLO D’ALBA VIGNA ARIONE
2022
A real insider’s choice — a wine for the aficionado. This is from the part of the Arione vineyard that lies outside the commune of Barolo. For those who love detail, the part inside the region is 3.6ha and outside is 2.2ha.
This year, my note starts “so elegant, so fine and poised”. Tender and joyful would be other words I would use. However, there is a depth too, born from the warmth of the vintage. This is a suave wine, but don’t be fooled, there is substance too. We have a small number of magnums for the first time.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2036
£630/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£225/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
BAROLO 2021 VINTAGE
The 2021 Growing Season
There seems to have been a line across Europe in 2021 — dividing very good vintages for Italy and Spain in the south from far more challenging ones to the north.
To this end, Piedmont 2021 was largely straightforward. The overall data suggest a cooler spring and a warm summer without dramatic heat spikes. The amount of rainfall was lower than the average but reserves from winter 20202021 mitigated any issues.
Harvest took place under settled skies; it is nice not to have any dramas to report.
I will repeat below what Roberto said last year when I asked him for a comment on the trio of 2019, 2020 & 2021 from a Nebbiolo standpoint. His answer was interesting, likening the trio to the 1999, 2000 & 2001 vintages. The thinking being:
1999/2019 — structured — therefore more traditional
2000/2020 — elegant — approachable earlier and a little plusher
2001/2021 — a combination of the above
It is curious to note that in both comparative trios, Monfortino was produced in every vintage.
BAROLO CERRETTA
2021
Always more open with its showing of fruit on the nose. So pure and yet succulent in character. There is a plushness here and yet supreme elegance; this may just be the best Cerretta yet. The length goes on and on. I get no suggestion that this will close down, so sure is the focus and drive. Very fine.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2038+
£975/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£370/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
£775/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
BAROLO ARIONE
2021
The first picked of the three Barolos on account of the southern exposure. It is amazing that 2021 is already Roberto’s 7th crop from the vineyard (though only 6th Barolo Arione — see Monfortino 2019 commentary overleaf).
There is a lifted, almost herbal, mint note on the first sniff. This blows away to reveal a real beauty. Loads of energy and real drive, a brilliant texture too. As with the 2020, I find this the hardest of the three 2021 Barolos to articulate. It feels very comfortable in its skin and somehow confident. Amazing fruit too.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5+
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2038+
£975/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£370/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
£775/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
BAROLO FRANCIA
2021
There is a dash of red fruit to the Francia in 2021 that balances the ever-present salinity and dark-fruited freshness. This is both gregarious and, at the same time, very proper. The fruit hangs from broad shoulders. It is a decathlete of a wine (bear with me), capable of anything, powerful yet dextrous and adaptable… Everything this wine should be. Absolutely no spitting.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19
Recommended drinking from 2030 - 2042+
£975/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£370/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
£775/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
BAROLO MONFORTINO 2019
2019 IN A NUTSHELL
The growing season began with cooler weather and some rain in April. Budbreak was therefore delayed. May saw some rain, but not as much as had been predicted. Temperatures ramped up in June and July. The overall growing season was not particularly dry, but temperatures were good. A happy equilibrium being the result.
Harvest took place in mid-October, which seems late in the climate change world, but is traditionally a time that really suits Nebbiolo. In fact, it can be a signature of quality to have a long, late harvest. Roberto likened the season to 2013.
THE WINE
So, after a gap of three “NON”fortinos — 2016, 2017 & 2018 — the greatest Barolo of them all is back. And it’s a first. The 2019 contains all of the wine from the Barolo Arione vineyard. For those at the back not paying attention, there was some Barolo Arione in the 2015 Monfortino, but not all of it. Not only does the 2019 have all the Arione, it has all the Francia too (this latter element is not a first).
I have often commented that one of the many joys of tasting at Conterno is being able to taste the same wine again and again, at differing stages of its development (Monfortino being in botti for 4-6 years). This has certainly been the case with the 2019.
The 2019 Barolo Riserva Monfortino has always been straightforward to taste, with its quality shining through.
Whenever I get the chance to taste, or better still, drink it, I am reminded of Roberto’s comment that “you drink the Barolos and chew Monfortino”. The 2019 will almost certainly go into a period of slumber, but I do not envisage this lasting long. There is a wonderful intensity to the nose, the bright, degraded fruit combining with sweet tobacco and leather. The balance is exquisite. The tannins are resolved perfectly, leaving a sweet moreishness. The finish lingers for as long as one can concentrate. A marvel.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2029 - 2050+
£1,750/CASE OF 3 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£1,265/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
£2,650/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
THE ALLOCATION PROCESS
We are often asked by customers for guidance on the quantities they should order. Due to the huge increase in demand for these wines over recent years, we will have to allocate all the wines in this offer. This will be done as quickly and as fairly as possible. We will do our best to accommodate newer customers, however, priority will be given to customers who have supported wines from Cantina Giacomo Conterno over time and Nervi more recently.
• Roberto Conterno and Corney & Barrow’s focus is on the private customer and as a consumer rather than a speculator.
• The wines are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK or Hong Kong only.
• Should you wish to sell the wine in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal, as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution.
May we please have your order by Tuesday 14th October. Allocations will be completed by Tuesday 21st October. Confirmation of your order will be through receipt of invoice, and the wines will be delivered or put into your reserve on payment. As already outlined, all orders are conditional upon UK storage or Hong Kong delivery only. May we please request that invoices be settled within the usual terms. In the interest of being fair, we reserve the right to reallocate your order to other customers on the waiting list if payment is not received by this time. Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help.
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AYR
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HONG KONG
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T +852 3694 3333 hongkong@corneyandbarrow.com
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