Warren County Connection - May 2023

May 2023

WARREN COUNTY CONNECTION

A Publication of Cornell Cooperative Extension of Warren County

Composting

Composting can improve soil health. Compost is decomposed organic material. Compost is made with material such as leaves, shredded twigs, and kitchen scraps from plants. To gardeners, compost is considered "black gold" because of its many benefits in the garden. Compost is a great material for garden soil. Adding compost to clay soils makes them easier to work and plant. In sandy soils, the addition of compost improves the water holding capacity of the soil. By adding organic matter to the soil, compost can help improve plant growth and health.

Composting is also a good way to recycle leaves and other yard waste. Instead of paying a company to haul away leaves, you can compost the leaves and return the nutrients to your garden. Instead of buying peat moss, save money and make your own compost!

The composting process

The composting process involves four main components: organic matter, moisture, oxygen, and bacteria.

Organic matter includes plant materials and some animal manures. Organic materials used for compost should include a mixture of brown organic material (dead leaves, twigs, manure) and green organic material (lawn clippings, and fruit rinds).

• Brown materials supply carbon, while green materials supply nitrogen.

• The best ratio is 1 part green to 1 part brown material.

• Shredding, chopping or mowing these materials into smaller pieces will help speed the composting process by increasing the surface area.

• For piles that have mostly brown material (dead leaves), try adding a handful of commercial 10-10-10 fertilizer to supply nitrogen and speed the compost process.

Moisture is important to support the composting process. Compost should be comparable

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Cornell University Cooperative Extension of Warren County

377 Schroon River Road

Warrensburg, NY 12885

Phone: (518) 623-3291 or (518) 668-4881

Visit Our Web Site: www.cce.cornell.edu/warren

Who We Are

Nation-wide, thousands of people in each state tap into their state’s land-grant university research and know-how to make sound confident decisions concerning family, home, business, finances, and the future. In New York State, the land-grant university is Cornell University.

The Cornell Cooperative Extension network brings you the expertise of Cornell University, other land-grant universities across the country and locally-based Extension Educators, volunteers, and other experts through such programs as: horticulture, youth and families, leadership, environment, food, nutrition & health, home environment, and financial management.

Staff

John Bowe, Interim Executive Director & Associate Team Leader

Dan Carusone, 4-H Natural Resources Coordinator

Roxanne Westcott, 4-H Family Living Educator

Sharon Bellamy, Finance Manager

Amy Sabattis, Public Relations/Publications Manager

Michele Baker, Administrative Assistant

Barb Galusha, Administrative Assistant

Joe Phillips, Facilities Coordinator

Board of Directors

Jim Kneeshaw - President

David Strainer - Vice President

David Little - Treasurer

CheriLyn Dempsey - Secretary

Hal Bain

Lisa Earl

Maureen Folk

William Hamelin

Cynthia Muratori

Cornell Administration

Danielle Hautaniemi

Extension Service Committee

Chair - Ben Driscoll

Daniel Bruno

Brad Magowan

Debra Runyon

Mark Smith

Please visit our website for more eventswww.cce.cornell.edu/warren

Facebook & Instagram - Look for CCE Warren

APRIL CALENDAR

WHEP: Amazing Amphibians

When: Thursday, May 11th

Time: 6PM

Where: CCE Training Center

Cost: No fee.

If possible, we will visit Pack Forest Lake to see if we can find frogs, toads, and salamanders as they move into or out of vernal pools. Cloverbuds welcome, with adult!

Map & Compass / Beginner Guide Camping

When: Saturday, May 13th

Time: 9am 3pm

Where: CCE Training Center

Cost: $5/person

The 4-H Adirondack Guides will be holding their annual Map and Compass/Beginner Guide training. These programs are mandatory for all new Guides, but are optional for experienced Guides. During this program, Guides will learn how to read topographic maps, and how to use them in conjunction with a compass. All participants will be able to put their learning to use in a practical, hands-on portion of the class, in which they will use their newfound skills to navigate. Open to ALL 4-H members ages 10 and up.

Pre-registration is required by May 6th and can be done by e-mailing mlb222@cornell.edu or calling the office at 518-668-4881/518-623-3291.

Sponsorship Opportunities

Cornell Cooperative Extension of Warren County, NY, a 501 (C) (3) Fed. ID #14-6036880 educational organization, is planning our 14th Annual Cornell Cooperative Extension Golf Tournament& Silent Auction on August 26, 2023, 10 am at the Cronin’s Golf Resort on Golf Course Road in Warrensburg, NY. Monies raised through this event will be used to helap support our association’s educational programs.

Contact Amy Sabattis for details!

518-623-3291 or email als77@cornell.edu

If you have special needs as addressed by the Americans with Disabilities Act and need assistance with attending these workshops, please make your needs known by the registration deadline. Reasonable efforts will be made for accommodations.

By Margaret Skinner, University of Vermont Extension Entomologist

Lymantria dispar dispar (commonly called spongy moth, formerly gypsy moth) is an exotic pest accidentally introduced into the US over 150 years ago. It used to cause major defoliation in forest, rural and urban settings every 8-10 years. Until 2021, we hadn’t seen an outbreak since the early 1990s thanks in large part to an insect-killing fungus called Entomophaga maimaiga that infects the larvae. In 2020, a few reports of an abundance of spongy moth caterpillars were received, and in 2021, people all around Vermont reported large numbers of an unfamiliar caterpillar, which were in fact spongy moth. It had been so long since we had an outbreak, many people didn’t recognize them anymore, but they do now, and they are not happy to see them return. Spongy moth has a wide host range (over 300 identified species), feeding mostly on deciduous hardwoods, and particularly favors oak, maple, birch and apple trees. However, when food is scarce, they even feed on pine needles.

The caterpillars are greyish with six pairs of raised red spots and four pairs of raised blue ones and tufts of yellowish hairs. They start out tiny when they hatch from the egg in early spring, and spin down the tree on thin silken threads, landing in your hair or plants below. They shed their skin 5-6 times over their life, each time getting larger. After the last molt they can reach 3 inches long! By the time they get that big, they are voracious feeders and can devour all the leaves on young trees and shrubs. Larvae have an interesting feeding behavior to escape predators, such as birds and small mammals. They climb into the canopy of host trees at night to feed, and climb back down in the early morning to hide in the leaf litter or in bark crevices on the trunk. This behavior is a handy way

for homeowners to manage them too. A band of burlap or soft weed cloth can be wrapped around host trees, held in place with twine and folded over itself (don’t staple or nail it in place!). Caterpillars hide under the burlap, and can be removed in the morning and disposed of in the trash in a closed bag or in a can of soapy water with a bit of rubbing alcohol. When populations are high, caterpillars can be seen crawling on the sides of homes and barns during the day. They are not trying to get in the house, but are seeking a hiding place like they do in the bark crevices on tree trunks. They can be removed daily with a shop vac containing a small amount of soapy water, but make sure you empty the canister afterwards. The key to success with these manual methods is to be diligent. You must remove the caterpillars every morning. Keep in mind that every egg mass can have 50 to 1,500 eggs so there may be a lot of caterpillars crawling around. The hairs of spongy moth can cause skin irritation for some people. Therefore, if you are prone to allergies, it is advised that you wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants and gloves to avoid touching them.

The state decided not to conduct an aerial spray program this year. However, there are several insecticides registered for use by homeowners against spongy moth caterpillars. Contact insecticides kill when they are sprayed on the caterpillar. There are also several biological control products that contain a bacterium called Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Btk). This is a stomach poison that kills the caterpillar after it feeds on leaves sprayed with the insecticide. This is a more environmentally friendly option because it is toxic to a limited number of caterpillars and doesn’t harm many other non-target organisms. It works best when caterpillars are still small. Before using any insecticide, READ THE LABEL, and follow the instructions to protect yourself. Make sure you only use products registered for spongy moth. Because they feed high up in the tree, it may be necessary to seek the assistance of a tree service if you want to obtain full spray coverage of the tree canopy. If you are considering spraying an insecticide to target caterpillars crawling on your house, do a test spray on a small area to make sure it doesn’t harm the siding.

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If you have small trees that are getting defoliated by spongy moth, make sure to water them regularly to eliminate drought stress. It is best to do one deep watering per week with 20 gallons to make sure the water gets to the roots. Watering daily with few gallons is not effective. If possible, young trees should be protected from caterpillars with bands around the trunk. If concerned about drought stress on larger trees, water them deeply at the drip line of the canopy, not close to the base of the trunk. When the caterpillars reach their last molt, they find a secluded place in which to pupate. The pupa is brownish and can be found in bark crevices even under burlap bands. These also should be removed to reduce the population. Adults emerge from the pupae as either whitish non-flying females or brownish males that fly. The females lay their eggs in clusters on the bark, and shed camelcolored hairs to cover the eggs. These egg masses can be scraped off with a knife or fingernail and collected in a container of soapy water and vegetable oil to further reduce the population before next spring.

The good news is there’s only one generation per year, so when they pupate later this summer, the defoliation from spongy moth is over. In addition, is an early-season defoliator. Heavily defoliated trees should produce new leaves and if it isn’t too dry over the summer they will recover. Hopefully the population surge we are observing now will be slowed with infection by the fungus, other naturally-occurring parasites and predators, or by the diligence of homeowners to reduce populations on their trees. Time will tell.

Useful websites to review:

• https://www.massaudubon.org/learn/nature-wildlife/ insects-arachnids/spongy-moths

• https://www.canr.msu.edu/ipm/invasive_species/Gypsy

-Moth/index

• https://extension.psu.edu/preparing-for-high-gypsymoth-densities-in-2021

• https://extension.unh.edu/resource/gypsy-moth-factsheet

• https://vtinvasives.org/invasive/spongy-moth

Leafy Vegetables Ready for Short, Cool Growing Season

By Rosie Lerner, Purdue University

Leafy vegetables are more nutritious and have fewer calories than most other vegetables, and they’re easy to grow. Most greens can be grown in relatively short, cool growing seasons, making them available for fresh harvest earlier than most other crops. If properly planned, fresh, leafy greens can be harvested all season long.

Leafy vegetables adapted to cool spring and fall growing conditions include lettuce, spinach, mustard, collards, endive, and kale. Many new cultivars of these cool-season crops have improved heat tolerance, making them productive into early summer. Root crops such as beets and turnips may also be harvested for their young, tender foliage. Greens that produce in the heat of summer include New Zealand spinach and Swiss chard.

Leafy greens grow best in open, level areas where the soil is loose, rich, and well-drained. Although leafy crops tolerate shade better than plants grown for their fruits or roots, at least six hours of sunshine daily will help ensure a highquality harvest. Avoid planting leafy greens in heavy clay or sandy soils. The soil pH should be between 5.8 and 6.8.

Most leafy vegetables can be planted as early in spring as the soil can be worked. The soil is ready for tilling and planting if a handful of soil crumbles when you squeeze it. If the soil forms a muddy ball when you squeeze it, the soil is still too wet and will form hard, long-lasting clods if you work it.

Seed may be directly sown in the garden for many leafy greens and must be planted at the proper depth to ensure good germination. The seed packet should include information on planting depth and spacing. Crops such as lettuce, spinach, chard kale, and collards may be trans-

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Garden Myths: Watering

By Sharon Miller, Penn State Master Gardener, Westmoreland County

April showers bring May flowers and an abundance of gardening information! Everywhere you turn, new techniques, tips, and tricks offer advice to help with the new growing season.

While some of the information we find is scientific and based on evidence found in research, other items can contain misinformation and derail our efforts.

Watering is one of the most frequent tasks we perform as gardeners. We often misjudge a plant's need for water, either dehydrating them through neglect or drowning them with love. Plants can't say when they need a good "drink," but we can observe them to get that balance right to help with the growing process. When we are able to get this balance correct, we can grow healthy, productive plants and minimize disease. In this article, we take a closer look at some common misconceptions about watering.

Watering each day is best to keep plants hydrated. Soil moisture is essential for proper plant growth. A healthy plant can contain up to 90 percent water which is used for essential functions such as the movement of nutrients and photosynthesis. Every plant is different in its requirements. New seedlings and established trees will have different requirements for water consumption. Frequent light watering can cause the development of a shallow root system close to the surface leading to a vulnerability during times of drought for new plants. More established plants with deep root systems may benefit from infrequent deep watering. The amount of water needed by each plant is dependent on multiple factors: weather and time of year, type of soil, type of plant, stage of growth, and location. Consider investing in a soaker hose to place water at the root area for better absorption and mulching to preserve the water where it is needed and reduce evaporation. If possible, avoid watering at the foliage of the plant which can lead to disease.

Drought-tolerant plants do not need to be watered. Xeriscape is a style of landscape design in which the plants and shrubs are selected based on their requirement of needed little irrigation. While the moisture requirements may be lower for this type of planting, all plants need water! These low-moisture plants may be better equipped to take up and store water for times of drought by slowing their growth and shedding their

leaves to accommodate the lack of water. However, all new plants will require frequent watering to establish their root system, and the plants used in a xeriscape are no exception. If available, these drought-tolerant plants may utilize additional water and store it for later use.

Sunlight-focused water droplets will burn leaves. Leaf damage can occur due to many causes: too much or too little moisture, insect damage, disease, overfertilization, and weather conditions such as wind or frost, not sun scorching. Usually, the rate of evaporation is quick, especially on the hottest, most intense, sunny day. For example, a mid-day rain can actually cool off foliage during a summer day. The best time for watering plants is in the early morning to avoid evaporation and reduce the potential for disease.

It rained; therefore, I do not have to water today! A downpour of rain can be deceiving! Storms tend to lead to water running off more than soaking into the ground where it can be utilized by our plants, leaving the soil surprisingly dry despite puddles on your patio and drops of water on plant leaves. Consider using a moisture meter, a finger, or even a stick to assess your soil for the required moisture for successful growing.

Watering can be confusing for even the most experienced gardeners, especially with the vast amount of information available at our fingertips. Watering plants correctly is vital for maintaining the health and longevity of our gardens. Using the tips above for utilizing proper watering techniques, we can preserve the health of our plants, protect water resources wasted by runoff and evaporation, and minimize disease. Knowing the "what" and "when" of watering in your garden is the key to growing healthy plants and conserving this precious resource.

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planted to get an early start.

Home gardeners can choose that approach or decide to harvest only a few leaves as they are needed, allowing for a longer harvest season from a single planting. If you harvest leaves as needed, harvest the outer, more mature leaves first, leaving the young, inner leaves to continue growing. However, collards are an exception: harvest the center rosette of collard leaves.

As the days grow longer and warmer, cool-season greens tend to bolt (flower) and become tough or bitter. At this point, it is best to pull the plants and replace with a warmseason crop.

Help the Butterflies with Milkweed, Parsley, and Dill

By Anne Gillespie, Penn State Master Gardener of York County

Butterflies do not only need flower nectar to exist. Their caterpillars need host plants.

In planning your garden this year, consider adding milkweed, parsley, and dill to add beauty to your garden while also helping the pollinators. Many insects including butterflies are in a precipitous decline due to overdevelopment and insecticides. Native meadows are disappearing at a rapid rate in our area due to warehouse and housing construction. Nationwide, on December 15, 2020, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service announced that the monarch butterfly is a candidate for the Endangered Species Act.

You can make a difference in your yard by planting these three plants. Milkweed attracts the Monarch and other butterflies, and dill and parsley are both excellent food sources for the Eastern Black Swallowtail young.

For butterflies, there are 2 types of plants. Nectar plants (the flowers have nectar) typically feed a wide variety of adult butterflies. Host plants (the leaves) however feed the butterfly young, caterpillars. Most caterpillars have evolved to eat specific types of plants. If those plants aren’t available, they die – they cannot metabolize other plants. For example, the butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) often seen at plant nurseries has spectacular blooms and nectar but is non-native and invasive. Most native American caterpillars cannot feed on the plant and die if the eggs are laid on the butterfly bush. Help our native environment and plant host plants instead.

The common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) is a perennial native American plant named for the milky white sap. Used by Native Americans as both a medicine and food source, the species is named for the Greek god of medicine, Asclepias. Monarchs and milkweed have evolved together. It is the only food source for the Monarch caterpillars, which thrive on this plant. Flowering from June to August, the fragrant pink flower clusters smell like lilies. The plant grows 3 to 5 feet with a spread of one foot, and thrives in dry, sunny locations. Seed pods form: in autumn the pods open and seeds disperse on silken parachutes. Milkweed is deer resistant and perennial. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service encourages milkweed planting. The agency has issued several bulletins which are interesting to read.

The common milkweed grows tall and straight while other varieties are bushy and even shrublike. There are over 100 species of milkweed native to the United States and cultivars have been developed by nurseries. Showy Milkweed (Asclepias speciosa) has pinkish white to pinkish purple blooms, growing 1 to 3 feet in height and 1 to 2 feet wide. It is drought tolerant, and low maintenance. Ice Ballet (Asclepias incarnata) has clusters of small white fragrant flowers. It grows 3 to 4 feet tall with a spread of 2 to 3 feet. It grows in medium to wet soil in full sun. Hello Yellow Butterfly Flower (Asclepias tuberosa) is bright yellow, growing 2 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) has bright orange flower clusters. The plant grows 1 to 3 feet tall and spreads 2 to 3 feet tall.

Milkweed can be sown in the spring from seed and plants can be purchased as well.

While milkweed plants are not sold by typical nurseries, use your internet browser to find the plants. I typed "Milkweed York PA" into my browser and found many sources for both plants and seeds.

Plant the herbs dill and parsley to attract the Eastern Black Swallowtail. This spectacular native butterfly with a 3- inch wingspan has velvety black and blue wings with orange dots and yellow accents. The cream or yellowcolored eggs mature into 2- inch green caterpillars with greenish-black stripes and yellow dots.

Dill (Anethum graveloens) is very aromatic and often used to flavor salmon, potato salad, and soup, as well as pickling. The flowers are attractive in bouquets. These annual plants grow 3 feet tall and spread wide 1 to 2 feet. Create a permanent bed by allowing dill to mature and self-seed. Dill should be planted in a permanent bed since it does not transplant easily due to the long taproot. You can plant new seeds every few weeks to ensure an ample supply all summer and to prepare for pickling season.

Parsley is rich in vitamins and minerals and adds beauty to both the vegetable and flower garden. There are several varieties, Italian Flat Leaf (Petroselinum neapolitanum) and Curly (Petroselinum crispum), growing 12 to 18 inches depending on the variety.

Parsley can be grown in pots if you have limited space. Be sure to plant enough of both herbs to share with the caterpillars. Do not be upset if something is chewing your plants. You are helping to sustain the future environment!

to the wetness of a wrung-out sponge.

If the pile is too dry, materials will decompose very slowly. Add water during dry periods or when adding large amounts of brown organic material.

• If the pile is too wet, turn the pile and mix the materials. Another option is to add dry, brown organic materials.

• For most efficient composting, use a pile that is between 3 feet cubed and 5 feet cubed (27-125 cu. ft.).

Oxygen is needed to support the breakdown of plant material by bacteria. To supply oxygen, you will need to turn the compost pile so that materials at the edges are brought to the center of the pile. Turning the pile is important for complete composting and for controlling odor.

• Wait at least two weeks before turning the pile, to allow the center of the pile to "heat up" and decompose.

• Once the pile has cooled in the center, decomposition of the materials has taken place.

• Frequent turning will help speed the composting process.

Bacteria and other microorganisms are the real workers in the compost process. By supplying organic materials, water, and oxygen, the already present bacteria will break down the plant material into useful compost for the garden. As the bacteria decompose the materials, they release heat, which is concentrated in the center of the pile.

• You may also add layers of soil or finished compost to supply more bacteria and speed the composting process. Commercial starters are available but should not be necessary for compost piles that have a proper carbon to nitrogen ratio (1 part green organic material to 1 part brown organic material).

• In addition to bacteria, larger organisms including insects and earthworms are active composters. These organisms break down large materials in the compost pile.

How long does it take?

The amount of time needed to produce compost depends on several factors, including the size of the compost pile, the types of materials, the surface area of the materials, and the number of times the pile is turned.

For most efficient composting, use a pile that is between 3 feet cubed and 5 feet cubed (27-125 cu. ft.). This allows the center of the pile to heat up sufficiently to break down materials.

Smaller piles can be made but will take longer to produce finished compost. Larger piles can be made by increasing the length of the pile but limiting the height and the depth to 5 feet tall by 5 feet deep; however, large piles are limited by a person’s ability to turn the materials. You may also want to have two piles, one for finished compost ready to use in the garden, and the other for unfinished compost.

If the pile has more brown organic materials, it may take longer to compost. You can speed up the process by adding more green materials or a fertilizer with nitrogen (use one cup per 25 square feet).

The surface area of the materials effects the time needed for composting. By breaking materials down into smaller parts (chipping, shredding, mulching leaves), the surface area of the materials will increase. This helps the bacteria to more quickly break down materials into compost.

Finally, the number of times the pile is turned influences composting speed. By turning more frequently (about every 2-4 weeks), you will produce compost more quickly. Waiting at least two weeks allows the center of the pile to heat up and promotes maximum bacterial activity. The average composter turns the pile every 4-5 weeks.

When turning the compost pile, make sure that materials in the center are brought to the outsides, and that materials from the outside edges are brought to the center.

With frequent turning, compost can be ready in about 3 months, depending on the time of year. In winter, the activity of the bacteria slows, and it is recommended that you stop turning the pile after November to keep heat from escaping the pile's center. In summer, warm temperatures encourage bacterial activity and the composting process is quicker.

Using compost in the yard

Incorporate compost into your garden as you prepare the soil in the spring. Cover the area with 3-4 inches of soil and till it in to at least the upper 6 inches of soil. Add compost to soil in vegetable gardens, annual flower beds, and around new perennials as they are planted. You may also use compost as mulch around flower beds, vegetable gardens, or around trees or shrubs in landscape beds. Ap-

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ply a 3-inch layer. Be careful not to apply mulch close to the main stem or trunk of the plant.

How to Begin

Layering is the recommended method for starting a compost pile. Layering is similar to making lasagna, as you add thin, uniform layers of materials in a repeated pattern. Once the compost pile is active, you can incorporate new material into the center of the pile or you can mix it in when turning the pile.

Start your compost pile on bare ground, removing the sod or existing vegetation. Contact with the soil will provide bacteria needed for composting. Do not place the pile on concrete or asphalt. You may also place a pallet underneath the pile if poor drainage beneath the pile is a concern.

Compost Layer 1

Add a 6- to 8-inch layer of organic matter, both brown and green. Do not pack the materials in, as this limits air flow and oxygen needed by bacteria.

Compost Layer 2

Add a starter material, such as animal manures (see the list of acceptable types), fertilizers, or commercial starters. These materials help to heat up the pile by providing nitrogen for the bacteria and other microorganisms.

Select one of the following:

• 1- to 2-inch layer of fresh manure from a grain eating animal, or

• 1 cup of 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer per 25 square feet, or

• a commercial starter, following all label directions

Compost Layer 3

Add a 1- to 2-inch layer of top soil or finished garden compost. This is done to introduce the microorganisms to the pile. Avoid using soil recently treated with insecticides and also avoid using sterile potting soil.

Composting Materials

What to compost:

• Leaves

• Some manures (cow, horse, sheep, poultry, rabbit, llama)

• Lawn clippings

• Vegetable or fruit wastes, coffee grounds

• Shredded newspaper or white, unglazed office paper

• Trimmed plant materials

• Shredded stems and twigs

Don't use:

• Meat or dairy scraps

• Some manures (cat, dog, swine, and carnivore manures)

• Glazed, color printed magazine paper

• Diseased plants or plants with herbicides applied

Types of Compost Bins

Holding units are low maintenance, and are good choice for those with limited space, such as apartment dwellers. These units do not require turning, however the lack of aeration causes the composting process to take 6 months to 2 years. Holding units are available from stores and catalogs.

Portable bins are similar to holding units, except that they can be taken apart and moved. Materials can also be mixed with this type of bin. Plastic units are available for purchase, or you may construct a bin from wire fencing framed in wood.

Turning units are designed so that they may be aerated. Turning units produce compost faster because they supply oxygen to the bacteria in the pile. These units may also have less odor problems, which are associated with poor aeration.

Turning units may be either a series of bins or a structure that rotates, such as a ball or barrel. These systems often cost more and are more difficult to build. Materials must also be saved until a unit can be filled to the correct level. Once these units are filled and the turning process begins, new materials should not be added.

Heaps are an option for those who do not wish to build or purchase a bin structure. Turning the heap is optional, but remember the composting process will be slowed if the pile is not turned. Woody materials may take a very long time to decompose with this method, and food scraps may attract pests.

Sheet composting can be done in the fall. With this method, a thin layer of materials such as leaves (that have not been composted) are worked into the garden. By spring, the material will be broken down. The decomposition process ties up soil nitrogen, making it unavailable to other plants. Because of this, sheet composting should only be done in the fall when the garden is fallow.

Soil incorporation is also known as trench composting. Organic material are buried in holes 8-15 inches deep, and then covered with soil dug from the hole. Decomposi-

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tion takes about a year, as limited oxygen slows the process. It is recommended to avoid planting that area for a year, as the nitrogen available to plants may be limited by the decomposition process.

Where to place the compost

Placing the compost bin in your yard depends on both functional and aesthetic needs.

For the compost bin to function properly, place the compost pile in an area with good air circulation. Do not place the pile so that it is in direct contact with wooden structures, as this will cause decay. It is best to locate the pile in partial shade, but this is not a necessity.

You may want to locate it close to the garden and close to a water source. If kitchen scraps will be added regularly, it may be more convenient to have the pile near the kitchen.

You may also want to screen the pile from view with a fence or by placing it behind shrubs or a taller structure. You may also wish to avoid placing the pile near outdoor entertaining areas.

Solutions: Mix in a nitrogen source like fresh grass clippings, manure or fertilizer.

If large, undecomposed items are still in the mix

Problem: Low surface area.

Solutions: Remove items, and chop or shred large items.

Answers to your composting questions

Are oak leaves too acidic to be used for compost?

No, oak leaves in compost will not create an acidic soil. However, you need to be careful when applying walnut leaves because they contain a growth inhibitor to which some plants are sensitive. Walnut leaves must be thoroughly composted before applied to the garden.

Are there any plants that I should not use compost around?

The pH of compost is slightly basic (or alkaline), thus avoid adding compost to acid loving plants such as azaleas or hollies.

Can I add sawdust to the compost pile?

Yes, sawdust can be added to the compost pile. However, compost has a very high amount of carbon, so if you add sawdust, add nitrogen (such as a cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 25 square feet). To be safe, avoid adding sawdust from lumber treated with CCA (chromated copper arsenic).

How do I know when compost is ready?

Compost is ready to use when it is dark brown, crumbly and has an earthy odor. Compost is ready when it is fluffy, and should not be powdery. The original materials that were put into the compost pile should not be recognizable, except for small pieces of stems.

Troubleshooting

If the compost has a bad odor:

Problem: Not enough air. Not enough water. Too small.

Solutions: Turn it, add dry material if the pile is too wet.

If the center of the pile is dry

Problem: Lack of nitrogen.

Solutions: Moisten and turn the pile.

If the compost is damp and warm only in the middle

Problem: Pile is too small.

Solutions: Collect more material and mix the old ingredients into a new pile.

If the heap is damp and sweet-smelling but still will not heat up

Problem: Lack of nitrogen.

Can I add weeds to the compost pile?

Weeds will not be a problem for compost piles that heat up properly. However, if the pile does not reach high enough temperatures, weed seeds may not be destroyed and could pose a future problem.

Source: Composting in the Home Garden, Illinois Extension

“If there is one thing I would teach a child, above all else, it is to be able to imagine himself into the flesh of other people: to realize his mother’s weariness, his father’s anxieties, his little brother’s lonely fears, and to give of himself generously to ease their burdens. A child who has learned to be consistently generous will become a generous adult, much loved and therefore truly successful.”

~I.A.R. Wylie (June1954)

Staying Hydrated

ter. Or crush some raspberries in ice cube trays, fill with water, then freeze to add flavored cubes to your water glass. Like mojitos? Forget the alcohol but mix the other ingredients (lime juice, soda water, mint leaves, and just a sprinkle of sugar) for a refreshing twist.

With summer in full swing, how can you beat the heat, stay cool, and keep healthy when temperatures soar? Besides staying indoors in the air-conditioning and seeking shade when you’re outside, you need to stay hydrated. Why? Because dehydration can lead to heat stroke, a lifethreatening condition that requires immediate medical attention. Signs of heat stroke include hot, red, dry, or damp skin; fast, strong pulse; headache; dizziness; nausea; and confusion.

Drinking water tops the list of how to stay healthy in the heat. Although water intake varies depending on several factors (including age, size, gender, health, activity level, and weather), as a general rule of thumb, aim to drink 810 cups of water every day.

Need help boosting your water intake? Follow these hydration tips:

Drink up but watch what you drink.

Drink plenty of fluids but avoid drinks with caffeine, alcohol, and high-sugar content as they might contribute to dehydration. Water should be your go-to drink because it’s calorie-free, low-cost, and readily available.

Take it with you.

Carry a reusable water bottle with you wherever you go in the backyard, in the car, to work, to the gym, and running errands. Most public places (such as parks, malls, grocery stores, and office buildings) offer water fountains. Fill up your water bottle at stops throughout your day to ensure a cold drink of water is always at your fingertips.

Jazz up your H2O!

Tired of plain ol’ water? While you can purchase flavored water, you can save money and make your own. Try adding a slice of cucumber or a squeeze of lemon to your wa-

Eat water-rich foods. If the thought of consuming a half-gallon or more of water every day turns you off, think beyond the water glass. While you should drink plenty of water every day, you can also eat your way to hydration to supplement your water intake. (FYI: Only 20% of your water needs are met through food.) Choose high-water-content foods, such as peaches, grapes, oranges, melons, strawberries, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, zucchini, spinach, and lettuce. Guess what else counts? Broth-based soups like chicken, beef, or vegetable broth. (Soups also provide a great way to get in a serving or two of vegetables.) You can even try a frozen fruit-juice popsicle! It all adds up over the course of a day.

Source: University of Connecticut Extension News

Infused Water Recipes

Apple Cinnamon Water

2 apples sliced

2 cinnamon sticks

2 quarts water

Wash hands with soap and water. Place apples and cinnamon sticks in a pitcher or water dispenser. Fill with water. Let sit overnight in the refrigerator. Serve with or without ice.

Blackberry, Cucumber and Thyme Water

1 medium cucumber

½ pint blackberries

2 sprigs fresh thyme leaves

Wash hands with soap and water. Wash cucumber, blackberries and thyme leaves under running water. Let drain. Thinly slice cucumber, you do not have to peel as it will add greater color to your water. Place slices in a pitcher or water dispenser. Add rinsed blackberries and thyme sprigs to pitcher and fill with water. sit overnight in the refrigerator. Serve with or without ice.

Yoga Combats Frailty in Older Adults

ver effect that can lead to having a healthier lifestyle overall,” said Julia Loewenthal, the lead author of the study. “It may be helpful to get involved in a healthy practice like this at a younger age, but with that said, we still saw clinically meaningful results in an older population. It’s never too late to start a yoga practice or exercise regimen to help with your overall health status in your later years.”

A regular yoga practice offers other benefits as well. Previous research shows yoga is effective at addressing the symptoms of depression. One systematic review found that the more yoga participants practiced each week, the fewer symptoms they showed. And an earlier review found that yoga is an effective tool for pain relief.

More than half of adults in the U.S. over age 80 experience frailty, an increased health vulnerability that hampers their ability to cope with everyday life.

Frailty is a complex condition that involves a variety of physical and mental factors including walking, balance, cognitive impairment, and other chronic health problems. Frailty can reduce endurance levels, make it more difficult to live independently, reduce quality of life, and increase the risk of dying sooner.

A new systematic review published in the Annals of Internal Medicine asks the question: Can yoga help to prevent or improve frailty? Researchers reviewed 33 randomized controlled studies on the benefits of yoga for people over 65. In total, there were more than 2,300 participants age 60 and older.

The review found that participating in a regular yoga practice improved walking speed and leg strength – two important measures of frailty. Walking speed was an especially important measure because earlier research shows that slower walking speeds are associated with an increased risk of dying in older adults.

The studies in the review included two types of yoga: Iyengar-based practices, which use modifications and props to help people with all mobility levels participate, and chair-based yoga. The findings suggest that Iyengar yoga may be more effective because it involves more standing and balance compared to chair-based yoga.

“There’s a potential for movement-based mind-body practices to be really helpful for promoting healthy aging over the lifespan because they provide a physical and cognitive health benefit, but also because they have a spillo-

The take-home message: Practicing yoga, even later in life, helps to combat frailty – a complex health condition that increases the risk of falling, hospitalization, and dying among older adults.

Source: https://evidencebasedliving.human.cornell.edu

Infused Water Recipes

Pomegranate and Pear Water

2 medium pears, very ripe

1 medium pomegranate

8 cups water

Wash hands with soap and water. Cut pear into slices and place in a pitcher or water dispenser. Separate your pomegranate seeds Juice all or a portion of the seeds for added color in your water. Fill pitcher with water. Let sit overnight in the refrigerator. Serve with or without ice.

Mandarin and Mint Water

6 small mandarins

1 bunch fresh mint leaves

8 cups water

Wash hands with soap and water. Wash mandarins under running water and peel, separating into sections. Place sectioned mandarins in a pitcher or water dispenser. Rinse fresh mint under running water. Add to pitcher and fill with water. Let sit overnight in the refrigerator. Serve with or without ice.

Source: University of Nebraska Extension

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