Warren County Connection - March 2023

March 2023

WARREN COUNTY CONNECTION

A Publication of Cornell Cooperative Extension of Warren County

Horticultural Oils – What a Gardener Needs to Know Introduction

As long as humans have been raising plants for food, they have been trying to control pests. Sulfur compounds were applied as far back as 2500 B.C. In 350 B.C., Romans used oil and ash for pest control. The Chinese used soap to control pests in 1100 A.D. By the 1880s in the U.S., horticultural oils were used regularly as dormant sprays on fruit trees. Horticultural oils continue to be applied today for pest control.

What Are Horticultural Oils?

Horticultural oils are pesticides that control insects, mites and some plant diseases. They are specifically designed to control plant pests. Commercially available horticultural oils are highly refined petroleum products that are filtered and distilled to remove compounds that can harm plants. They are 92 percent to 99 percent pure. After distillation and filtration, they are then formulated with a mixing agent (emulsifier) to blend with water for ease of application. In addition to petroleum-based products, plant-based horticultural oils are also available. These may contain soybean, cottonseed, sesame, neem or other oils. However, plant-based horticultural oils are less refined and may burn plants more readily (phytotoxicity).

List of Terms

Delayed Dormant Oil – Oil applied when buds are showing 1/16 to ½ inch of green.

Dormant Oil –Oil applied to woody plants during dormant stage of growth (winter) before (Continued on page 3)

Cornell University Cooperative Extension of Warren County

377 Schroon River Road

Warrensburg, NY 12885

Phone: (518) 623-3291 or (518) 668-4881

Visit Our Web Site: www.cce.cornell.edu/warren

Who We Are

Nation-wide, thousands of people in each state tap into their state’s land-grant university research and know-how to make sound confident decisions concerning family, home, business, finances, and the future. In New York State, the land-grant university is Cornell University.

The Cornell Cooperative Extension network brings you the expertise of Cornell University, other land-grant universities across the country and locally-based Extension Educators, volunteers, and other experts through such programs as: horticulture, youth and families, leadership, environment, food, nutrition & health, home environment, and financial management.

Staff

John Bowe, Interim Executive Director & Associate Team Leader

Dan Carusone, 4-H Natural Resources Coordinator

Roxanne Westcott, 4-H Family Living Educator

Sharon Bellamy, Finance Manager

Amy Sabattis, Public Relations/Publications Manager

Michele Baker, Administrative Assistant

Barb Galusha, Administrative Assistant

Joe Phillips, Facilities Coordinator

Board of Directors

David Strainer - President

Jim Kneeshaw - Vice President

Dan Bruno - Secretary

William Hamelin - Treasurer

CheriLyn Dempsey

Lisa Earl

Maureen Folk

Ed Griesmer

David Little

Cynthia Muratori

Extension Service Committee

Chair - Ben Driscoll

Daniel Bruno

Andrea Hogan

Brad Magowan

Debra Runyon

Please visit our website for more eventswww.cce.cornell.edu/warren

Facebook & Instagram - Look for CCE Warren

MARCH CALENDAR

4-H After-School Archery Program - 3/14 & 3/28 2023 4:30 PM - 5:30 PM Youth must be at least 8 years old to participate. Program is limited to 8 participants and will fill quickly, so be sure to register ASAP! Interested youth MUST pre-register with the 4-H office.Please contact Michele at mlb222@cornell.eduor call 518668-4881 with any questions or to sign up.

4-H Public Presentation Judging Day - 3/18/2023 10:00 AM3:00 PM 4-H Public Presentations is a program in which youth learn to create a presentation and develop the skills needed to present it before an audience. They learn about the research process and the steps needed to organize information into an interesting and creative presentation. For more information contact Roxanne Westcott at 518-623-3291. Location: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Warren County 377 Schroon River Road, Warrensburg, NY 12885

4-H Public Presentation Judging Day - 3/23/2023 5:00 PM7:00 PM 4-H Public Presentations is a program in which youth learn to create a presentation and develop the skills needed to present it before an audience. They learn about the research process and the steps needed to organize information into an interesting and creative presentation. For more information contact Roxanne Westcott at 518-623-3291. Location: First Presbyterian Church, 8 West Notre Dame Street, Glens Falls, NY 12801

Board of Directors Meeting - March 27, 2023, 6:00 PM - 7:00 PM Meeting will be held at the Cornell Cooperative Extension Training Center at 377 Schroon River Road, Warrensburg, NY Call our office to get the Zoom link emailed 518-623-3291.

If you have special needs as addressed by the Americans with Disabilities Act and need assistance with attending these workshops, please make your needs known by the registration deadline. Reasonable efforts will be made for accommodations.

buds open in the spring at a higher concentration than summer oil. Refers to season of application.

Horticultural Oil –A pesticide used to control insects, mites and some diseases. May be petroleum- or plantbased.

Nonselective –Kills all insects, including beneficial insects.

Phytotoxicity – Plant injury due to a toxic effect by a compound.

Summer Oil – Oil applied when plants are in leaf at a lower concentration than dormant oil. Sometimes called superior oils. Refers to season of application.

Superior Oil – Oil that doesn’t contain sulfur and can be applied when plants are in leaf. Also called supreme oil.

Supreme Oil – Highly refined oil. Similar to a superior oil. Historically, horticultural oils were called “dormant” oils because they were sprayed only when plants, particularly fruit and shade trees, were in a dormant stage of growth before buds opened in the spring. As refining processes improved, “superior” oils were developed. These were lighter weight than the previous dormant oils and contained no sulfur. These were less likely to burn plants than traditional dormant oils. Because of this, superior oils mixed in the proper concentration can be applied, with some precautions, during the growing season when plants are in full leaf. They are also called “summer” oils, referring to the time of year for treatment. The term “dormant” no longer refers to the type of oil, but instead now refers to the seasonal timing of the application. “Supreme” oil is another term for superior oil.

Some common brand names of petroleum-based horticultural oils are Volck®, Sunspray® or Ultra-Fine®. An example of a plant-based oil is Garden Safe® Neem Oil Extract.

Neem Oil

Neem is a naturally occurring botanical pesticide found in seeds from the neem tree. It is made up of many components, but azadirachtin is the most active insecticidal ingredient. It reduces insect feeding, growth and egg laying. It also acts as a repellant. It is effective against immature stages of insects. Neem seed oil without the azadirachtin works as a protectant against insects, mites and fungi. It reduces fungal infection by preventing spore germination and penetration.

Neem oil, with or without azadirachtin, is practically nontoxic to birds, mammals, bees (if applied late evening or early morning when bees are inactive) and plants, but is slightly toxic to fish and other aquatic animals. Neem products may be registered for fruits, herbs and vegetables in addition to woody plants. Repeat applications may be needed at seven- to 10 day intervals for fungi and more often for insects.

(Cranshaw & Baxendale, 2013; NPIC, 2012; Pundt, 2000; UC IPM, 2012.)

What Pests Are Controlled?

Oils are most effective against exposed eggs, immature stages and soft-bodied adult insects. These include scales, aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, thrips, leafhoppers and arachnids, such as spider mites, on fruit or shade trees and on many ornamental plants. Oils are also used to control diseases such as powdery mildew, downy mildew, rust and leaf spot.

Besides being insecticides, horticultural oils can also be used as fungicides. The oil reduces the ability of the fungi to grow. By killing insects that spread viruses, viral diseases can be reduced.

How Do Oils Work?

Oils control insects with direct contact. The insect must be present for the oil to work. Complete coverage of the insect population is required for the treatment to be effective. The oil has no effect after it has dried. When horticultural oils are sprayed onto the plant, the oil covers any exposed insects or eggs and suffocates them by clogging their breathing tubes.

This is a nonselective process, with the oil killing almost any insect it covers and reducing hatching success. In addition, the oil may disrupt how an insect feeds or interfere with cell membranes or normal metabolism. In the winter, dormant sprays only kill overwintering insects and exposed eggs.

What Are the Advantages to Using Horticultural Oils?

• Oils are relatively safe for humans and wildlife.

• While they are nonselective, smothering most insects they contact, including beneficial insects, oils evaporate quickly, degrade rapidly and leave no toxic residue. This makes them less disruptive to beneficial insect populations than chemical insecticides.

• Since the mode of action is mechanical (smothering) rather than chemical, there is less likelihood of insects developing resistance to the oils.

(Continued on page 4)

• Oils generally need no special equipment for application, other than standard garden sprayers.

• Some formulations have been approved by the Organic Materials Review Institute and can be used by organic gardeners.

What Are the Disadvantages to Oils?

• Horticultural oils can cause skin or eye irritation to humans.

• They are toxic to fish and some are toxic to bees unless sprayed in early morning or late evening.

• They can burn sensitive plants.

• Spraying with oil at a dormant concentration after bud break when leaves have emerged may kill the young leaves, so the correct rate must be used at the appropriate time of year.

• Since the oil does not work once it dries, it has little residual effect; new infestations are not controlled by a previous application.

• Blue-colored evergreens can lose their blue color because the oil removes the bluish material from the needles.

• Horticultural oils should not be used during temperatures in the 90s, or on drought-stressed plants or new transplants.

• Oils should not be applied during freezing temperatures.

• They should only be applied when plant surfaces are dry, but plants are well irrigated.

• They should not be used on new growing shoots except as mentioned under “Dormant or Delayed Dormant Application.”

• Fall treatments may cause winter injury.

• Oils cannot be combined with sulfur products or sprayed within 30 days of a sulfur application.

Dormant or Delayed Dormant Application

There are two methods for dormant horticultural oil application. One is to apply it before the buds break or show any color. However, this can speed up spring bud development, making buds more susceptible to frost and cold temperature damage. The second method is the delayed dormant application. This occurs when buds are open at the tip showing 1/16-inch to ½-inch of green leaf tissue.

Dormant oil should not be sprayed 48 hours before or after a freeze occurs or is predicted.

Usually a higher rate of oil is mixed and applied during

dormant or delayed dormant than with a summer application. The proper rate is listed on the label.

Always read and follow all label directions for proper timing and rates dependent on the stage of the life cycle of the pest. Apply only when the pest is present.

Sufficient water must be mixed with the oil to cover all the bark cracks and crevices. According to University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension, a 20-foot-tall tree will probably require 4 gallons of water for complete coverage.

Sensitive Plants*

• Junipers

• Cedars

• Maples particularly Japanese and red

• Redbud

• Smoke tree

• Spruce particularly dwarf Alberta

*Other plants may also be sensitive. Test a small portion of the infested plant prior to spraying the entire plant to determine if the plant is sensitive. Different plants exhibit sensitivity at different times of the year.

Conclusion

• Horticultural oils work well to control insect pests and, if used properly, can be a less toxic approach than chemically based insecticides.

• A dormant or delayed dormant application can kill many of the overwintering insect pests that would normally plague plants in the late spring, such as aphids. Treating in the winter or early spring can save time and avoid later plant problems.

• Summer applications at the correct rate provide excellent pest control with the least amount of damage to beneficial insects or the environment.

Source: University of Nevada, Reno

Despite March's windy reputation, winter isn't really blown away; it is washed away. It flows down all the hills, goes swirling down the valleys and spills out to sea. Like so many of this earth's elements, winter itself is soluble in water.... It is a wet world, winter's harsh grip beginning to relax.... An outcropping ledge on the hillside sheds its beard of icicles and becomes a seep spring that drips into a shallow pool that feeds a growing runlet.

~"Washing Winter Away," The New York Times, 1964 March 17th

Seed Starting Demystified

By Pamela T. Hubbard, Master Gardener, PennState Extension Monroe County

How many seeds to order

For a modest-sized garden choose the vegetables and varieties your family enjoys most. One packet of seeds of each variety should be plenty. As a general rule, one packet will be enough for a 10 to 30 foot row.

When to start your seedlings

Plan to start your seeds indoors so they are at the correct stage of development to move outside after the last frost. I often wait another week before planting, if the weatherman predicts frost at that time. Follow the instructions on the seed packet and use the calendar to figure out the sowing dates. For example, the instructions on a tomato seed packet may be, “Start seeds indoors 4-8 weeks prior to the last frost of spring." Always read the directions on the seed packet, as larger seeds, such as beans and corn, do best if you sow them directly into the garden. Write the sowing date on each seed packet and group together with other packets having the same sowing time.

Colorful catalogs arrive in the dead of winter and tempt us to start our plants from seed. Here are some tips for choosing and starting seeds successfully.

Seed catalog season, one of my favorite seasons of the year, has begun. Few tasks are more rewarding than growing your own plants from seed. If you haven't done this before, and you find it intimidating, here are some guidelines to simplify the process.

Which seed catalogs to choose?

Choose seed companies in the Northeast. They provide varieties adapted to our area, whereas more distant companies may offer plant materials best suited to other regions of North America. Some of the companies I have used with good results: Burpee, Johnny's Select Seeds, The Cook's Garden, and Annie's Heirloom Seeds.

How to read seed catalogs

The best catalogs include details such as the botanical name of the plant, its color, preference for sun or shade, its water requirements, and the mature height and spread of the plant. Another important piece of information is the cold-hardiness zone for the plant. The catalog may tell you the plant is new or improved which means the variety has changed, hopefully for the better. Icons will indicate the plant's traits: read the key, as the symbols are not the same in all catalogs. You may have been drawn to the plant by its lovely picture but remember this shows the mature plant at its best; perennials may not look that way the first year. Don't forget to grow some flowers in your vegetable garden to encourage pollinators. Many annual flowers, like marigolds and zinnias, are very easy to grow from seed; they are great for beginners.

Containers

You will need containers with holes for drainage and trays to catch excess water. Styrofoam cups, plastic tubs, and old plastic cell packs are suitable. I prefer old seed flats. You can purchase a seed starting kit that includes a tray of cells and a humidity dome, but it's not necessary to spend the money. Most important, your containers must be properly sterilized before using them. Wash them in soapy water and then rinse with a solution of one part chlorine bleach and 10 parts water. Dry thoroughly before adding the growing mix.

Growing mix

Purchase a commercially prepared mix especially for seed starting. The medium should be sterile, loose, welldrained, and of fine texture. Also, buy vermiculite to cover the seeds as this encourages seed germination.

Step-by-step procedure

• Moisten the seed starting mix and fill the container to within ¾ inch from the top. Remember to make sure the container has adequate drainage.

• Use a clean small board to level and firm the mix. Do not press too hard.

• Make shallow rows about 1-2 inches apart with a narrow board.

• Sow seeds uniformly and thinly in the rows. Label the rows immediately, especially when you plant different (Continued on page 6)

seeds in one flat. If you are sowing only one type of seed you may scatter them over the surface.

• Cover the seeds with vermiculite to a depth of about two times their diameter, leaving very fine seeds uncovered. Moisten the surface with a fine mist, or place the container in a pan of warm water.

• Cover the container with a plastic film or a plastic bag. No additional watering will be needed until after germination.

• Place the tray in a warm place, not in direct sunlight, with a temperature of 65–75° F. You can use a heated seed-starting mat.

• Once seedlings emerge, remove the plastic film and place the container in a bright south-facing window, or under a fixture equipped with two cool white fluorescent tubes. Leave the seedlings under the lights for 14-16 hours each day. Do not overwater: allow drying between watering, being careful the seedlings don't wilt.

• If you need to thin your seedlings, nip some off at the soil line with scissors. If necessary, transplant overcrowded seedlings to individual pots after they have at least one set of true leaves. Grasp the seedlings by the leaf to avoid damage to the stem.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually introduce your seedlings to the garden after threat of frost. Place them in dappled shade for about five days before moving them into a sunny location, gradually increasing the length of exposure, for another five days. When your plants are large enough for easy handling and hardening-off is complete, the time has come to plant them into the garden. To reduce the shock of transplanting, select a cloudy day for the task. Dig a hole twice as wide as the plant. Carefully remove the plant, retaining as much soil as possible, and set it in the hole at the same level it was growing in the flat. Place soil loosely around the roots and fertilize with a weak solution of fish emulsion.

With seed catalogs in hand, you can begin the most rewarding and enjoyable of garden projects planning your summer garden!

Clubmoss

By Joey Williamson, PhD, HGIC Horticulture Extension Agent, Clemson University

Clubmosses are primitive vascular plants that look like miniature pines or cedars spreading over the forest floor. They evolved around 410 million years ago, even before higher plants and dinosaurs appeared on earth. Today, modern species only grow inches tall, but their ancestors grew as tall as 135 feet. The abundance of tree-like clubmosses, along with horsetails and ferns, dominated the Carboniferous period (which lasted 359.2 to 299 million years ago), and the woody clubmosses created much of the massive coal deposits that are mined today.

Genera

Until around 30 years ago, most clubmosses were placed in the genus Lycopodium, but taxonomists have since split these primitive little plants into a number of genera, and in South Carolina, these include Huperzia, Lycopodiella, Diaphasiastrum, Dendrolycopodium, and of course Lycopodium. Many species of these genera are found growing in areas of moist, acidic forests with seepages but also in bogs and wet prairies. However, some species have adapted to grow well in dry or mesic forests and even at higher elevations on balds, rock outcrops, and in forest openings with more sunlight.

Fan clubmoss (Diphasiastrum digitatum) grows in moist, acidic forests in South Carolina. Beech and oaks are the predominant tree species at this site.

Joey Williamson, ©2019 HGIC, Clemson Extension

Ground pine (Dendrolycopodium obscurum) is another species that grows well in moist, acidic forests. This plant has produced a greenish-yellow strobili, on which its spores will be produced. Ground pines may be found in the wildflower area of the SC Botanical Garden in Clemson.

There are approximately 7 genera and 11 species of clubmosses in South Carolina, and these are indigenous primarily to the Piedmont region and on the coastal plain of the state.

Reproduction

One reason that they are considered primitive is because their manner of reproduction is by spores rather than by seeds. Many clubmosses send up “club-like” projections, called strobili, on which spore producing packages (called sporangia) are formed.

However, spore production is not the only means by which clubmosses can spread. They also spread by underground stems (called rhizomes) that grow horizontally, and from these, additional small plants will appear a few inches away.

How Is Excessive Screen Time Affecting Us?

Screens seem to be everywhere in the form of phones, laptops, tablets, and even watches, so we have to think about how we function in an environment with screens constantly being utilized in our lives. According to the CDC website, children ages 8-10 have a screen usage time of around 6 hours. Youths ages 11-14 spend around 9 hours a day in front of a screen. Youths ages 15-18 spend around 7.5 hours a day in front of a screen. We have to ask ourselves: what effect does excessive screen usage have on us?

These fan clubmoss (Diphasiastrum digitatum) have produced their multiple strobili on each stalk for spore release, and the spores are spread by air currents.

Growth Rate

Sometimes colonies of multiple clubmoss species are found together. Ground pine and fan clubmoss grow in similar habitats.

Clubmosses are extremely slow growing plants and rely on mycorrhizal fungi to aid in nutrition and to complete their life cycle and growth. It may take as many as 20 years to make another mature plant from spore production and spreading. In past years, clubmosses have been ripped from the ground to use as garland for Christmas decorations. However, because of their slow growth and recovery from harvesting activities, these little clubmosses really should not be harvested. Additionally, they do not transplant well. Therefore, it is best to appreciate these beautiful, evergreen groundcovers in their natural habitats.

Other clubmosses, such as this shining clubmoss (Huperzia lucidula), do not send up strobili for spore production, but they have packets of spores formed in small sporangia at the base of their small scale-like leaves (called microphylls).

It is in our boredom we think of creative and innovative ideas. Therefore, if we replace free time with being online, our ability to use our imagination and express ourselves can be negatively impacted. Another effect that excessive screen time can have on us is our inability to get quality sleep. Staying up to view our screens gives us less time to get the deep sleep that sets us up for the next day. Our ability to focus is also stunted when it comes to viewing screens constantly. This stops us from doing our best in classes or work and our future work and school performances can then be jeopardized if this pattern continues.

One cannot talk about screen time without talking about social media. Especially within the younger generation, social media presence seems to be essential when being in touch with friends. However social media can lead to a handful of issues that affect people's mental health such as anxiety, depression, self-image issues, etc.

So, what are some ways to reduce screen time?

• Find alternative hobbies you actually enjoy to pass the time

• Set screen time limits on phone’s apps in your settings

• Create family rules restricting the use of devices after certain times of the day or during mealtimes

• Avoid viewing your phone right before bed and even place your phone in a different room from where you are sleeping

Source: University of Illinois Urbana‐Champaign

Paying Off Debt: Using the Debt Snowball and Debt Avalanche Methods

By Nichole Huff, Ph.D., CFLE, Assistant Extension Professor Family Finance and Resource Management, University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service

Many people have some form of debt, such as mortgages, auto loans, student loans, credit card debt, or medical bills. Debt can weigh heavily on our minds and can restrict our budgets. If you want to pay off debt in the new year, there are two tips to keep in mind. First, create a plan to reduce your debt. Then, change your borrowing and spending habits, and be careful not to take on new debt while you pay off existing debt.

MAKE A PLAN TO REDUCE DEBT

Goals are rarely reached by luck or coincidence. Rather, you achieve goals when you are intentional in your planning and follow-through. The same principles hold true when setting a goal to reduce debt. The first step to paying off debt is to make a plan. To do this, create a main list of all the debts you have. Writing down the information in this chart will help you decide which debt repayment strategy is best for you. Your list should include the following rows:

in the long run. One downside of this method is that if your debt with the highest interest rate is large, it may take a while to feel like you are making any progress toward paying it off.

The debt snowball method starts with the smallest debt, regardless of interest rate, and works toward paying off debts from smallest to largest amounts. Because this method does not consider interest rates, you will not save money initially, but it can be motivating to see the progress of more quickly paying off debts. Paying off small loans may help you build momentum and confidence to tackle your larger debts later.

You can also consider a combination of the two. Pay off smaller debts by interest rate and work your way up to larger sums. Regardless of which method you choose, be intentional about putting any extra monthly income you have toward the selected debt until you pay that debt off. Then, take the money you have been paying on that loan, as well as any extra monthly income, and apply it to the next debt in your plan. Continue doing this until you pay off each of your loans or credit lines.

CHANGE YOUR FINANCIAL HABITS

After you have created a plan to reduce your debt, you must change your borrowing and spending habits if you plan to achieve these goals. To start, compare your income to your expenses to determine how much money you can put toward debt repayment each month. To effectively pay off debt, your income needs to be more than your expenses. If this is not true for you, you need to identify ways to reduce your spending or increase your income. Also, try not to take on any new debt while you pay off existing debt.

DEBT REPAYMENT STRATEGIES

There are two main methods or strategies for repaying debt, debt avalanche and debt snowball. Both options require you to pay the minimum payment on all your debts and put any extra income toward one debt at a time. The difference between the debt avalanche and debt snowball methods is which debt you focus on repaying first.

The debt avalanche method focuses on paying debts with higher interest rates first. Because these debts accumulate interest quickly, they increase the amount you owe. That means paying them off first will help you save money

Pay off smaller debts by interest rate and work your way up to larger sums

Bonding with Board Games

By Denise Dias, Family and Consumer Sciences Agent, K-State Research and Extension

Let’s play a board game!

tion for trust and long lasting relationships. Video games do not offer that chance for us to connect to others in person.

In the book Family Treasures: Creating Strong Families, author John De Frain discusses six qualities that strong, successful families around the world exhibit:

• enjoyable time together;

• appreciation and affection for each other;

• positive communication;

• spiritual well-being (values, beliefs, life skills);

• successful management of stress and crisis; and

• commitment to each other.

It is important for parents and grandparents to find a way to carve out time as a family. Each time we interact with one another it builds and strengthens that bond. Board games foster the face-to-face interaction needed to connect deeply with each other and to develop the other traits of strong families.

Board games have been around since early civilization. The first board game is estimated to have been developed around 5000BC. Can you guess what it was? Dice. Egyptians made game play a prestigious royal pastime in 3100 BC. Many think of backgammon as the first board game, but it was not developed until 1300 BC. Hopscotch is considered one of the first games designed for children around 500BC.

Modern board games — euro-style

Even though everyone seems to be glued to their smart phones these days, games are still popular. In fact, board games are a hot trend with the millennial generation. But the games have changed since we were young. One popular type of game is called a euro game. Euro games are a class of tabletop games that generally have indirect player interaction and abstract physical components. Euro-style games emphasize strategy while downplaying luck and conflict. This creates a positive environment for relationships to grow.

Board games can gather families and friends together, across generations, to connect, compete and have fun. Youth today often lack skills to build relationships with others, including their grandparents. Euro board games are an entertaining and clever way to develop relationship skills without resistance.

Unlike video games, board games promote face-to-face interaction. A key component to connecting with people is learning how to read body language and developing "social capital." Board games allow us to create a founda-

Playing euro games has helped my family to connect. The games lead to interesting conversations and help us build stronger relationships with one another. Family holidays and events are less stressful and are a time we look forward to being with one another.

The importance of play for children and adults

Play is crucial for a child's development and it is also beneficial for people of all ages. Play can add joy, relieve stress, supercharge learning, and connect you to others and the world around you. It can trigger the release of endorphins, the body's natural feel-good chemicals, which promote an overall sense of well-being and can temporarily relieve pain.

Older adults can benefit from many of the same concepts that children do when playing stimulating the mind and boosting creativity, fostering relationships, including empathy, compassion, and trust with others, and strengthen social skills.

Play and laughter perform an essential role in building strong, healthy relationships by bringing people closer together, creating a positive bond, and resolving conflict and disagreements.

The influence of money, of politics, is trivial, compared to the influence of man in his integrity.

~Charles F. Raymond, "You, Sir, Are a Magician," Cheer Up, 1909

How to Properly Clean Cast Iron

By Jessie Jones, Extension Family and Consumer Sciences Agent with N.C. Cooperative Extension

4. Without turning off the heat, add ½ teaspoon of oil (flaxseed, soybean, and vegetable oils are great choices) to the warm, dry pan and wipe the interior with a wad of paper towels (use tongs to hold paper towels to protect your hands) until it is lightly covered with oil.

5. Continue rubbing the oil into the pan, replacing the paper towels as needed, until the skillet looks dark and shiny and doesn’t have any remaining oil residue. 6. Turn off heat and let pan cool before storing.

Growing up, I spent a lot of time in the kitchen with my granny and great granny. One of their staple pieces of kitchen equipment was their cast iron pan. These pans are popular due to their ability to distribute and retain heat, their durability, and their versatility, transferring from the stove to the oven and completing a wide range of tasks with ease. Now that I’ve become older, you guessed it, I have my own prized cast iron pan – two to be exact! The questions I see most often when it comes to cast iron are how do you clean and care for them? They need special attention, and the “seasoning” is fragile, right? Not at all – it’s all about maintenance.

First, almost all cast iron these days comes pre-seasoned. It’s important to know that even in a pre-seasoned pan, food might stick just a little, so avoid recipes that require the pan to be completely nonstick the first couple of time you use your new skillet. If you follow these steps, you are guaranteed to build and maintain the coveted seasoning:

1. While the pan is still warm, wipe the pan clean with paper towels to remove excess food bits and oil (if you wait until the pan is cool, it will be more difficult to remove stuck-on food).

2. Rinse the pan under hot, running water, gently scrubbing with a brush or nonabrasive scrub pad to remove any last traces of food. Salt is a great cleaning material for cast iron and it’s cheap! Now, most would stop me and say “absolutely not,” but it is okay to use a small amount of dish soap if necessary – just make sure to rinse it all off.

3. VERY IMPORTANT – Dry the pan COMPLETELY and put it back on the burner over medium-low heat until all moisture is evaporated. NEVER put away a wet, or even damp, cast iron pan – it will rust!

Easy peasy, right? By following these steps, you will have happy cast iron pans that will last generations. One other bit of advice, you don’t have to follow these steps religiously every time. If food does happen to cool in the pan and get stuck, just wipe out what you can, heat it back up a little, soften the food with a little water, then pick up at step two. The only foods you cannot let sit are highly acidic foods like tomato, wine, or lemon sauces – they can leave a metallic aftertaste.

Fruit Cobbler

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 3 tablespoons canola oil

• 1 cup whole-wheat flour

• 1½ teaspoons baking powder

• ½ teaspoon salt

• 1 cup reduced-fat milk

• ½ cup sugar

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 3 ripe but firm peaches, (about 1 pound), pitted and sliced into eighths, or 3½ cups frozen

• 2 cups (1 pint) fresh or frozen blueberries

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place butter and oil in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet or a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Heat in the oven until melted and fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, combine flour, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. Add milk, sugar, and vanilla; stir to combine. Add the melted butter mixture to the batter and stir to combine. Pour the batter into the hot pan. Spoon peaches and blueberries evenly over the batter.

3. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the top of the cobbler is browned and the batter around the fruit is completely set, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Remove to a wire rack to cool for at least 15 minutes. Serve warm. Serves 10.

Each serving contains Calories 196, Fat 9 g, Fiber 3 g, Carbohydrates 29 g, Protein 3 g, Cholesterol 11 mg, Sodium 202 mg.

Source: Dr. Tammy Kelly, Ed.D.County Extension Director N.C. Cooperative Extension, Lenoir County Center

Increase Intake of Fresh Herbs for Everyday Health

By Sarah Rautio, Michigan State University Extension

ic inflammation and its associated risk for chronic disease. In addition, science-based research on herbal application in medicine is growing, and future findings may substantiate some of the more specific benefits herbs have on particular ailments. Regardless of those medicinal unknowns, however, increased consumption of food-based herbs can still have over-reaching health benefits similar to other plant-based foods. So add more fresh herbs to your diet!

Many fresh herbs are just as nutritious as leafy greens.

When most of us plan to cook with herbs, we often refer to a recipe and the small amounts of dried herbs it calls for (think chili or spaghetti). That is because herbs are typically separated from other plant-based foods (e.g., vegetables) as “food seasonings” rather than just another type of edible plant. Since so many herbs have concentrated flavor in their dried state, categorizing them as seasonings makes sense. However, many herbs are quite mild in their fresh forms and can be eaten in large amounts similar to leafy green vegetables. Since herbs are plants just like vegetables, they are physically, biochemically and nutritionally quite similar to leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach and kale. Yet we typically do not eat fresh herbs in the same ways and quantities as vegetables. Most “soft-stemmed” herbs (parsley, basil, dill), however, can be used in large amounts in salads and on sandwiches. Other fresh herbs (mint, lavender, rosemary) can easily be added in smaller amounts, but more frequently, to drinks and as toppings on snacks and desserts. And, herbs can pack in just as much nutrition as vegetables!

Just like green leafy vegetables, fresh herbs contain large amounts of vitamins A, C and K. Many herb plants also contain polyphenols. Polyphenols are plant compounds that have both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capabilities. Polyphenols are only found in plants and plantbased products, which is why diets rich in plant-based foods can offer “protection against the development of cancers, cardiovascular diseases, diabetes, osteoporosis and neurodegenerative diseases,” according to a 2009 study conducted by Pandey and Rizvi. The polyphenols in herbs and other plant-based foods can also reduce chron-

Unlike American cuisine, many other cultures have utilized large quantities of fresh herbs in their traditional foods, and some of these foods are becoming more popular in the USA. Tabbouleh is a parsley salad that is historically popular in Middle Eastern culture but is now quite common in the USA. Italians and Asians have been eating significant amounts of fresh basil on caprese salads, in pesto, and as a regular condiment to accompany many Asian main dishes. Many US citizens have adopted similar eating patterns. Other fresh herb habits are less familiar to us, such as the Scandinavian tendency to dump handfuls of fresh dill ontop of fish stews such as Finnish Lohikeitto (LOW-hee-gay-doe).

Ideas for eating more herbs on a regular basis:

• Make salads with herbs as the main ingredient (e.g., Tabbouleh).

• Substitute 1/2 of the greens in lettuce salads with herbs such as parsley, dill, and basil.

• Mix handfuls of fresh herbs into cold potato and pasta salads.

• Top soups with handfuls of fresh herbs.

• Garnish an entire dinner plate with fresh herbs.

• Make a sandwich with herbs rather than lettuce (e.g., grilled cheese with basil).

• Add fresh herbs to drinks (mint lemonades and rosemary ice teas, fresh chamomile in hot tea).

• Use fresh herb sauces in pasta or on top of cooked meats (pesto in pasta; fresh mint sauce on cooked lamb).

• Sprinkle lavender, rosemary, and mint leaves on cakes, ice creams, and fruit cocktails.

A good laugh and a long sleep are the best cures in the doctor's book.

~Irish proverb

Laughter is therapy for physical pain, emotional pain, and the everyday pain of life.

~Terri Guillemets

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