cookhouse Soho House Food Magazine
PARTY ON summer 2012 EATING how to make great bites WORKING perfect patisserie from Jake Rigby-Wilson PLAYING demos and trips for chefs around the Group
Party on! tastes...
We l c o m e t o t h e S U M M E R 2 01 2 issue of Cookhouse, the hefs Soho House food magazine for c and people who love to eat
This magazine celebrates the food philosophy of all the Soho House G r o u p r e s t a u r a n t s w o r l d w i d e : S o h o H o u s e Ne w Yo r k , B a b i n g t o n House in Somerset, Soho House West Hollywood, Soho Beach House Miami, Soho House Berlin and Cecconi’s in LA, as well as all the London sites: Pizza East Shoreditch, Pizza East Portobello, Cecconi’s, Dean Street Town House, Shoreditch House, The Electric, Cafe Boheme, BKB, High Road House in Chiswick, Hoxton Grill, Little House Mayfair and Soho House. If you’re interested in joining one of our kitchens email cookhouse@sohohouse.com In this issue we’re finding out just what it takes to make great party food, with a few top tips from Soho House Group’s e x p e r t s . We ’ v e a l s o b e e n c a t c h i n g u p w i t h c h e f s f r o m a r o u n d the Group about what trips they’ve been on and what demos t h e y ’ v e s e e n - f r o m f o r a g i n g i n L A t o l e a r n i n g a b o u t b u t c h e r y. C h e c k o u t o u r p r o f i l e s o f T i m F u l l e r, h e a d c h e f a t L i t t l e H o u s e , the most recent Soho House opening, and Jake Rigby-Wilson, new group pastry chef. All that, plus news from around the world, recipes and lots of other treats! ps - we’re sad to say that the Electric in Notting Hill is closed due to a fire until late 2012. All staff have been redeployed within the Group. Editor Rebecca Seal Art etc. Dominic Salmon Publisher Dan Flower
s Lennard, t h a n k s t o D y l a n M u r r a y, C a r o l i n e B o u c h e r, T h o m a n, Kat Hartigan, o s w a r t S e b e o h P , n w o r B Gareth Jones, Julia Taylor etti, n o B e i n n o R , d a e t s i m r A w e h t t a M , d a e t Shelley Armis ld, Martin Kuczmarski, a r e g z t i F s a l o h c i N , d r a l l o P n o J , i t t e n o B a l l e n o t n A , Eliot Sandiford, Andrea Cavaliere, Carolina Cavaliere, Dave Green cki Spillane, a J , a t s i t t a B j a l i L , t n e L y e l h s A , Jake Rigby-Wilson i m F u l l e r, T , A m a n d a M i d d l e b r o o k s , P e t e M c A l l i s t e r, T a n k L oy Michele Ardu and Chris Tomsett
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NIBBLES & NEWS
From pop ups to promotions - all the news from around the Soho House Group kitchens
WHAT I KNOW
Introducing Tim Fuller, head chef of Little House Mayfair
UP ON THE ROOF
Whole Foods comes to Shoreditch - for one night only, a rooftop farmers’ market
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PERFECT PARTIES
How to make the coolest canapes for any event
BLOOMIN’ MARVELLOUS
A visit to Babington House’s walled gardens, plus recipes using its bounty
RICE ‘N’ EASY
Why rice is a key ingredient and chefs’ favourite ways with it
DAY TRIPPIN’
Meat demos, bakery visits, patriotic patisserie, foraging in the wilds...where SHG chefs have been this quarter
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BAKING WITH JAKE
Meet Soho House’s new Group pastry chef
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MEMBER’S RECIPE
Get fresh with a zingy ceviche
Good morning
Vietnam
Dean Street Townhouse head chef Dave Green has just returned from a foodie trip to Vietman. “I travelled around the northern half of the country,” he explains. “And did a cookery course where I learnt to make things like beef noodles, pho, and beef stir-fry with green peppercorns. We went to the markets where we saw things like whole pigs being broken down, oranges the size of footballs and 10 kinds of ginger. The food was incredible, aromatic rather than spicy and there were kitchens on every corner where you could eat for 20p.”
Flowered up
It’s true that most flower arrangements shouldn’t be nibbled, but at Cecconi’s West Hollywood members recently got a chance to create very pretty dishes that were totally edible. Cooking with flowers is a huge trend this year and the class was all about how to make the most of chive flowers, courgette flowers and flowering herbs like lavender.
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Some of the seasonal flowers used at Cecconi’s and above, Andrea Cavaliere with one of his students Vietnam’s street food and below: Dave on his cooking course
food news from around the world
NEW COOKHOUSE AMBASSADORS We’re pleased to announce that, in line with our sister mag House Tonic, we now have Cookhouse Ambassadors, chefs from different sites who organise Cookhouse events and are a point of contact for any chef in the Group who wants to learn and develop. Congrats to Nicholas Fitzgerald from Pizza East Shoreditch, Jason (Tank) Loy from Dean Street Townhouse and Pete McAllister from Hoxton Grill. Pete says: ““I have been involved with Cookhouse now for a while and have been on lots of trips and demos so I was very pleased to take on this role as UK Cookhouse Ambassador. I want to move us forward, get more involved as a team and to put together lots of exciting day trips for our chefs, to put on the Cookhouse calendar.” CECCONI’S FRIEZE NY POP UP During the Frieze Art Fair, for just a few days New York was lucky enough to get a taste of Cecconi’s. The team created a pop-up which was a real home-from-home for anyone familiar with Cecconi’s in West Hollywood. From dawn to dusk the team served up breakfasts, brunch, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, platter style – there was no menu, just a selection of signature dishes. Check out page 12 to find out more. JOHN POLLARD MOVES TO BERLIN Soho House Berlin has a new head chef. John Pollard, formerly head chef at Pizza East Shoreditch, has upped sticks and moved to Berlin to oversee the rapidly expanding German outpost of Soho House.
Khoo & the gang
IT’S THE NEW STYLE Lots of SHG kitchens have recently revamped their menus for summer. Check out Pizza East Shoreditch’s grilled baby gem with anchovies or sea bream with samphire and fennel.
Rachel Khoo, TV chef behind the Little Paris Kitchen show and all-round patisserie whizz, popped by to give a talk to Soho House’s pastry teams in London. She gave them a whistlestop recap of her career, via Sydney, France, Melbourne and London and talked through some of her signature dishes. For the full run-down of Rachel’s visit, check out the next issue of Cookhouse! www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
bites...
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Nibbles *********************
Twinkle twinkle
MMMM, burgerrrrrr
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It’s going to be a busy year for Soho House Group. Not only are there new Soho Houses planned for Toronto, Istanbul, Mumbai, Chicago and Barcelona, but there are also two new ventures opening this summer. Chicken Shop is, unsurprisingly, all about chicken, and chef Ronnie Bonetti has travelled the length of the UK looking for the perfect chicken to marinate, grill, chop and serve with triple-cooked crinkle chips. The first Chicken Shop will open in Kentish Town, north London, in August, in the same building as a new Pizza East. And if you love burgers, look out for Dirty Burger – also self-explanatory! – where you’ll be able to get the best burgers and fries around. Check out sohohouse.com for more details.
Little Stars! Every issue we like to celebrate the unsung heroes of the kitchens. Head chefs choose the team members they think are the ones to watch.
Pizza East Shoreditch Brian McGowan nominates... Ollie Shaw has shown a huge improvement since joining the team. His attitude, work rate and willingness to go the extra mile have made him a key member of the P.E kitchen staff. Top man. Dean Street Townhouse Dave Green nominates.... Joe Hill, chef de partie on the sauce section has really developed as a chef since joining us in October last year and has become an integral part of the team at Dean Street. Soho Beach House Miami Sergio Sigala nominates... We have Roys Fabian, our second pizzaiolo, who is doing an excellent job, even under pressure! Plus, Jorge Fuente, garde manger, who has shown leadership, character and a desire to grow with us. Hoxton Grill Group pastry chef Jake Rigby-Wilson nominates... Jo Duncan is the pastry section at Hoxton! She started
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at Hoxton before Soho House acquired the site and has adapted to meet the challenges and changes that the building has to offer with determination and drive. She has become a strong backbone to the senior team in the kitchen and a person for others to aspire to as she takes on more jobs and responsibilities than is expected of her. It’s not just about new people showing initiative within the workplace but for those who have set the standards to maintain them and still be open to future changes. Jo has shown both these qualities and no sign of slowing down yet.
The Dirty Burger test kitchen feeds Soho House staff
Soho House Leon Lawrence nominates... Miroslaw Ksiazek has just been promoted to junior sous of the House Kitchen and has grabbed the role with both hands, especially as the senior chef is away – he has run the kitchen brilliantly. Cafe Boheme Marcin Malinski nominates... Marcelo Andrade Landeta, chef de partie, is very organized and sets the standard for other chefs below him. He’s fast in service, always on time and very reliable. For sure, he is a star.
Kochhar cooks up a storm
kitchens Back in May, renowned Indian chef Atul Kochhar took over the Michelinat High Road House in Chiswick, bringing his award-winning of his starrred restaurant Benares to west London. Guests tried some black think tastiest dishes, and SHG chefs got a taste of how to cook them: ree with lentils and naan, crispy soft shell crab and puffed rice bhel, kedge coconut and curry leaves or lychee kulfi.
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Chiswick is promising to be Once again House Festival in formers include Lana Del a musical and edible feast – per t Jaxx and Rizzle Kicks, while Rey, Friendly Fires, Basemen s available. Last year hundred food and drink will be freely and salads were devoured, all of lobsters, burgers, hotdogs of Soho House chefs. cooked on site by a crack team d better this year. Expect it to be even bigger an
r more details.
See www.housefestival.com fo www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
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starters
what i know Tim Fuller, head chef at Little House, Mayfair
If I was giving advice to a young chef I'd say “stick with it”
My earliest memory of food is back when I was five or six in Sydney and went round to a mate’s house. His mum cooked us lunch and because they were Lebanese she put about 20 different dishes on the table – tabbouleh, hummus, salads, everything. That’s when I realised food could be amazing, as I was brought up on pretty simple food. I read Nose to Tail Eating by Fergus Henderson for inspiration. I like his strong, bold flavours and that he uses parts of the animal other people don’t use. I like to cook with pigs ears! I don’t have a favourite ingredient. I like the different challenges that come from new ingredients. I was looking forward to the asparagus season this year, but the rain ruined it! I’m loving working with crab too – we’ve got a great salad of crab, samphire, pea shoots and chilli at the moment. I’ve been given lots of advice over the years that keeps coming back to me. “The food is the garnish,” is one – meaning that it’s about the whole dish looking good, not a little bit of garnish. Another is that odd numbers look better than even when you’re presenting food. If I was giving advice to a young chef I’d say stick with it. It’s really hard at the start but the rewards do come. And chefs will only share their best secrets with you if you’re willing to learn. When you’re being shown how to do something, watch how the chef moves and what they do with their hands. When I was an apprentice I worked with a big guy in a small kitchen and I didn’t think he would handle it. But he made everything look effortless because he had everything set up right and he was really efficient. You could see the love going into his dishes. I became a chef partly because I wanted to travel. After my apprenticeship in Australia I travelled around the country a lot, then my wife and I decided to come to London – it’s the food capital of the world and great for work, great for the CV and a great base to travel from too.
Every day is different. It’s pretty demanding but I don’t like being idle. I like the craziness of it.
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Tim Fuller in his previous kitchen, Pizza East Portobello Pic by: Michele Ardu www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
want to cook?
to find out more about how you could become part of the Soho House Group team contact cookhouse@sohohouse.com www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
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rooftop market
You’ll meet a farmy of me Whole Foods Market Picadilly Circus teamed up with Shoreditch House to celebrate the opening of its new store there and transformed the Roof Garden into a bustling farmers market where members could browse, taste and buy goodies from Whole Foods’ top producers.
It was hard to resist the rhubarb doughnuts that St John Bakery had rustled up (pictured below left), which already have a major following in London (the bakery is an off-shoot of St John restaurant, and makes some of the best rye and sourdoughs out there). Don’t be disappointed if you can’t get them next time you’re there though, as the fillings change seasonally, and the bakers expect to start using softer fruits and apples soon. Neals Yard’s cheese makers and cheese maturers were also on hand to talk through their selections – team Cookhouse fell in love with the rich blue Stitchelton and the Berkswell, which gets its unusual dome shape from straining through a colander. Cheddar from Cheddar Gorge was also on offer, which is aged in the caves around the gorge itself and makes a lovely cheese straw. All that cheese was off-set by a taste of crisp asparagus from Cobrey Farm in the Wye Valley where the team is investing in new varieties to extend the British season. We also sampled Seggiano olive oils and a delicious cashew and fresh basil pesto which has an incredible colour for pesto from a jar and is suitable for people who are lactose intolerant. We snacked on gourmet popcorn by Propercorn (above left), a new product designed by a young entrepreneur called Cassandra and inspired by her dad. He couldn’t cook much when she was growing up, but her memories of inventing new popcorn flavours with him led her to start her own company – it’s now the nibble of choice at Google’s offices and the Houses of Parliament. Finally we staggered up to stalls serving super indulgent sweet and sticky treats by Booja Booja truffles, Heavenly Cakes (below, middle) and Cat and the Cream, whose entirely free-from range uses dairy-free almond milk, wheatfree chickpea (gram) flour and golden linseed instead of egg. After all that, it was time to grab a cider and a seat and appreciate the entertainment – tricks from illusionist Mat Ricardo and soundtrack was provided by super-cool new folk band Skinny Lister (above, left).
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Making merry with stalls and music on Shoreditch House roof
It was hard to resist the rhubarb doughnuts (so we didn’t ;-) )
(Hungry US readers, don’t despair. Keep your eyes on www.houseseven.com as Soho House West Hollywood is planning another of its daytime rooftop farmers markets, complete with entertainment for younger members, later in the year.) wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/piccadillycircus
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Bite for your right to party
bite me!
Soho House knows how to throw a party. And Soho House chefs know good party food. In the US, executive chef Andrea Cavaliere oversees events that include film festivals, Frieze Art Fair and Art Basel while in the UK, events expert Iain Graham has been devising new dishes for party goers in all the London venues. Main photographs by Steven Joyce
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bite me!
The rules are different
“When you’re serving food that is just a couple of bites,” says Andrea, “the rules are different. You can play more with flavours and make them more extreme – saltier or sweeter. You only have one chance with the dish and the guest can’t add seasoning so you have to get it right. Presentation is also key – the food is served so fast that colour is really important. Everything has to happen in one shot. Plus, you know it’s a party, there will be alcohol and people let themselves go a bit, so it doesn’t all have to be so healthy.” Andrea is a veteran of glamorous food for glamorous parties – he is in charge of parties across America for everyone from movie moguls, record companies to events at Toronto and Cannes film festivals.
“Our latest party was a pop up of Cecconi’s West Hollywood in New York for the Frieze Art Fair,” says Andrea. “To make life simple we didn’t take orders, people just came in and we served them appetisers, mains and desserts, along with teas and breakfasts. We served a few signature dishes – agnolotti pasta with shaved truffles, tuna crudo, imported buffalo mozzarella with cherry tomatoes on a really beautiful platter, then king salmon, risotto verde or parmagiana.” His next trick will be a hard-hat party in Toronto around the time of the Film Festival, when the next Soho House will also open there. “Our members party a lot, so they’re looking for things to eat that are interesting ,” he says. “But we get great feedback even though we’re not an events company – because our food is always made then and there, and really fresh.” C O O K H O U S E 1 4
Andrea’s favourite party was in Miami but before Soho Beach House opened. “It was for Art Basel and we threw it over several days on the beach opposite where the House now is. It was crazy and intense because we had to build everything – there was no water, no power. We flew people in from all over to do the party, worked really hard, had a party ourselves on the last night and then everyone went back to work!”
Meanwhile over in London, top chef Iain Graham has been helping to reinvent the UK sites’ party food. “A lot of love goes into canapes,” he explains. “And I think we should use things off the menus that are real hits already, like the salmon tartare.” Consequently, he’s taking inspiration from existing dishes and tweaking them, Soho House style. “We realised that a lot of them were on bread so we’re looking at using taro, which is a starchy tuber with white flesh and red speckles. When you slice it and fry it, it goes really firm, in a nice way. It’s great for people who have a wheat allergy.” He’s also into quinoa as a base: “Cook it and then put it in a mixer with a dough hook with some flour. Then you just roll it out and cook it. The great thing is that, unlike bread or toast, when you put something on them, quinoa crisps don’t go soggy. It’s bulletproof!” Look out for new dishes on the party food menus using combinations like crab, dill and pomello, smoked venison or slow-cooked lamb on potato cakes. Sounds like a good excuse for a summer party!
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One of Iain’s creations
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bite me! ANDREA’S TOP TIPS People love small tacos or mini pizzette, but they also love being served little bowls of food, so that it’s almost like a proper dinner. There are no rules – try serving desserts like mini pana cotta or mini mousses in shot glasses. Take on some Asian influences – California rolls are brilliant and sushi in general is good too because the flavours are big and bold. Steamed buns make excellent party food.
IAIN’S TOP TIPS Canapes like bresaola and tallegio rolls will sit and hold nicely in the fridge so are great for entertaining at home. Static things like cheese straws or pastries are also brilliant. Make sable biscuits or parmesan tuilles – replace the sugar in a sweet tuille recipe with parmesan and then you get parmesan bites, in whatever shape you want them. Take a spring roll wrapper, brush it with butter and then sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar, roll it up – not too tight – and then pop it into the fryer. They’ll unroll a bit but not entirely. Get it out and get all the oil off and it will look like a giant cinnamon stick. You can do them way in advance, and freeze them at the point where they’re ready to fry. C O O K H O U S E 1 6
You can get taro in little Asian cornershops – they look like leathery turnips. Choose ones that are smooth on the outside and not too hairy, as that makes them woody. Peel them with a knife like you would a celeriac then cut it down and slice it if it’s really big. If you grate it and press it down into a ring you can bake it, or slice it and fry it. You end up with really cool little crisps that are great for ceviche.
Matt Armistead, head chef at Soho House West Hollywood, loves this party recipe
Andrea likes to get the party started with these two favourites of his
The sun is out, our mint plants are overflowing their pots, and the farmers’ markets are awash in green thanks to fava beans that are at their peak.
Salt-cod croquettes makes 32 1 oz / 25g balls
Fava bean and burrata bruschetta Serves 6 1 lb / 460g young fava (broad) beans (in pods) 1 garlic clove, peeled 4 tbsp fresh mint leaves 4 tbsp freshly grated pecorino cheese 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil pinch of Maldon sea salt pinch of freshly ground black pepper juice of 1 lemon 6 slices Pugliese or other sourdough bread, cut into ½ inch / 1½ cm thick slices 1 large garlic clove, peeled extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb / 460g burrata Remove the beans from the pods. Briefly blanch them and then put into an ice bath to cool. When cooled, peel and pound the fava beans, garlic and mint with a mortar and pestle until the texture is thick. Remove and place in a bowl. Stir in the pecorino and the olive oil. Season with salt, pepper and the lemon juice.
½ lb / 230g skinned and boned dried salt cod 1 lb / 460g medium potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tbsp freshly chopped parsley leaves 1 tbsp freshly grated parmesan salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 egg yolks, beaten 2 whole eggs for egg wash 4 tbsp panko vegetable oil, for frying milk for soaking Soak the cod in cold water to cover for 24 hours, refrigerated, changing the water occasionally. Drain. In a medium saucepan add the cod and cover with milk by 1-inch/3cm. In a separate saucepan add the potatoes and cover with water. Simmer for about 30 minutes or until the potatoes are tender and the cod is flakey. Drain and cool the cod and the potatoes. Pass the potatoes through a ricer into a bowl. Using your fingers or a fork crumble the cod, removing any bones.
Toast the bread on both sides, then lightly rub with a cut clove of garlic. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the cod, the potato, garlic, parmesan, salt and pepper to taste, and the egg yolks.
Top the toast with the fava bean spread and a spoonful of burrata.
Refrigerate for 1 hour.
Optional: Drizzle the bruschetta with extra virgin olive oil, fresh mint, and a sliver of Fresno red pepper for sweetness and a little decoration.
Preheat the fryer. Use 2 tbsp of the mixture to form a cake. Coat with egg wash and and set aside while making the remaining croquettes. Fry in batches until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Serve with aioli.
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Pork belly buns makes 16 buns for the pork ½ cup / 100g kosher salt ½ cup / 100g sugar 4 ½ cups / 1 litre water 2 ½ lb / 1.1 kg skinless boneless pork belly, cut into quarters ½ cup / 120 ml reduced-sodium chicken broth This is my interpretation of a brilliant David Chang and Momofuku recipe. For a party, I recommend purchasing fresh steamed buns at your local Chinese market. You can eat the buns just with pork belly and the buns, or garnish with hoisin sauce, julienned cucumber and scallions (spring onions). Stir together kosher salt, sugar, and 4 cups water until sugar and salt have dissolved. Place the pork belly in a large resealable bag and pour in the brine. Carefully press out air and seal bag. Lay pork and brine mixture in a shallow dish and let chill for at least 12 hours. Reheat the oven to 300°F / 150°C with rack in middle. Discard brine and place pork, fat-side up in a square baking pan. Pour in chicken broth and remaining ½ cup water then cover tightly with foil and roast until pork is extremely tender, about 2 ½ hours. Remove the foil and increase oven temperature to 450°F / 230°C and roast until fat is golden, about 20 minutes more. Cool for 30 minutes, then chill, uncovered, until cold, about 1 hour. Once chilled, cut the pork across the grain into ¼-inch / 5mm slices. Let them sit in their juices until ready to assemble. To finish, preheat oven to 350°F / 175°C with rack in middle. Heat sliced pork (in liquid in baking dish), covered, for 15 to 20 minutes or until hot. Brush the bottom half of each bun with hoisin sauce. Create a sandwich with 2 to 3 pork slices and some julienned cucumber and scallions.
CC OO OO KK HH OO UU SS EE 21 17
at the Houses
Gardener’s World
GARDEN BORAGE SOUP
Serves 2 2 onions ½ head celery 1 chopped garlic clove 3 potatoes cubed 5 handfuls of garden borage, washed 500ml / 2 cups water
Being out in the countryside means that the chefs at Babington really get to take advantage of fresh and local produce - not least from the walled garden. And when in full bloom pickings become a daily must do. Neil Smith, Babington House’s senior sous, tells all to Phoebe Strawson... “There aren’t many kitchens that have access to a walled garden that’s just under an acre big, and that’s one of the things that makes Babington House that little bit extra special. Being able to introduce new chefs to the experience of planting vegetables, gaining knowledge and appreciating the goodness we have is great.
Already we’ve got rhubarb popping up, all kinds of berries, rosemary, marjoram, three types of mint, red and golden beetroot, rainbow chard, fennel, thyme and borage. But the thing I love is when it’s in full bloom and you can hardly see from one end to the other - just the odd chef rummaging around for broad beans. So far this spring we’ve been really rinsing the rocket, you pick it and it grows, pick it some more and it grows – it’s been incredible! So has the sorrel, with its tart acid lemon taste it’s delicious with a hollandaise sauce poured over salmon. We really encourage everyone from the kitchen to get involved, any new chefs are shown how to pick, clean, prep and cook garden ingredients. The beauty is being able to pick what you need as often as you need so as much as possible comes straight from the ground and onto the plate.
Sweat off onion, celery and garlic without giving it any colour, add potatoes and continue to cook. Blanch borage in salted water then strain (reserving liquid), finely chop and add to potato base along with the cooking liquid. Simmer for 12 mins and season to taste.
Babington’s garden in bloom and below, dessert made with its produce
SQUASH & SPROUTING BROCCOLI SALAD Serves 4 ½ butternut squash peeled, chopped & roasted 1 bunch of sprouting broccoli or tender stem broccoli, steamed 80g / 3 oz bitter leaves 1 long red chilli, chopped few mint leaves, chopped 40g / 1 ½ oz roasted pumpkin seeds 100g / 4 oz soft goat’s cheese lemon extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper
This summer we’ll be taking full advantage of the fruit, it’s always a race between the kitchen, bar and birds to get the best crop, but worth it to make a good old Eton mess or summer pud with fresh garden berries!”
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Simply put the leaves, squash and broccoli into a large bowl, cut and squeeze over the lemon, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the salad into your favourite 4 bowls, scatter with pumpkin seeds, chopped chilli and mint, and crumble over the goat’s cheese. Serve immediately.
gEt cooking!
Join one of Soho House’s kitchen teams. Email cookhouse@sohohouse.com www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
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The rice is right Carolina Cavaliere sings the praises of this serious staple
Whether it’s risotto in Italy, paella in Spain, sushi in Japan or black beans and rice in Brazil, nearly every culture on Earth has rice as the key ingredient to some of its oldest dishes. More than half the population of the world depends on rice, which explains why there is so much cultural symbolism associated with rice. Since early Roman times, rice has represented fertility. It was thrown at weddings (to see how many a children a newlywed couple in Finland will have, guests count the number of grains of rice caught in the bride’s hair); while in India, rice is the first food a new bride offers her husband and the first food offered to a newborn. For Soho House Group chefs, rice is just as important. Here they share a few of their personal ways with it. Andrea Cavaliere’s wild mushroom risotto serves 4 For the mushroom stock 2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped 1 leek, roughly chopped and washed 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 500g / 1 lb button mushrooms, washed and roughly chopped 30 g / 1 oz dried porcini mushrooms, soaked for 2 hours in warm water 10g / ¼ oz thyme 10 black peppercorns 1 bay leaf
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For the risotto 350g / 1 ¾ cups carnaroli rice 60g / 2 oz butter mushroom stock (see recipe) salt and freshly ground white pepper 70g / 2 ½ oz butter 2 medium shallots, chopped 1 cup / 230 ml white wine 100g / 3 ½ oz porcini mushrooms 300g / 10 ½ oz mixed seasonal wild mushrooms (chanterelles, morels, black trumpets, hen of the woods) prepared and cleaned 80g / 3 oz parmigiano reggiano 5 g / ¼ oz parsley, finely chopped
Start by making the stock. Gently cook the onion, leek and garlic in extra-virgin olive oil until soft and lightly transparent. Avoid browning. Add the remainder of the ingredients and cover with about 2 litres of water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 1 hour, skimming occasionally. Strain through a fine-meshed sieve and keep hot (if using immediately). The stock should have a strong flavour; if not, reduce the stock until the flavour is more concentrated. To make the risotto, melt butter in a heavy pan with chopped shallots to create a soffritto. Then add rice and stir for a few minutes on low heat with a wooden spoon until the rice is toasted but not browned. Add dry white wine. Once evaporated, gradually add the stock, a little at a time, stirring constantly. Make sure each addition of stock is fully absorbed before adding more. Season with salt and pepper according to taste. Meanwhile, cook the mushrooms in 20g / 1oz butter. When the rice is cooked (about 15 minutes) add mushrooms into the risotto with the parsley. Before serving, add 50g of the butter and parmigiano reggiano, check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.
back to basics Smoked eel kedgeree, Dave Green, Dean Street Townhouse serves 8
Begrafnisrys, Nicky Pickup, Soho House West Hollywood Every cup of uncooked rice serves 2-3 people as a side
300g / 1 ½ cup long grain rice ½ onion, finely chopped 50g / 1 ¾ oz butter ½ tbs Madras curry paste (preferably Patak’s) ¼ tbs turmeric vegetable stock 400g / 14 oz smoked eel fillet, in approx 2cm dice 50ml / ¼ cup double cream 1 bunch spring onions (scallions), sliced chopped parsley 8 soft boiled eggs
The direct translation of the name is funeral rice but it’s better known these days as Cape Malay yellow rice. It got its name from being served after funerals but now it’s a popular side dish with curry. 1 cup / 275g long grain rice ½ tsp salt 1 ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 stick of cinnamon ½ cup raisins 1 tbsp butter 2 ½ cups / 775 ml water
Sweat the onions and spices down in the butter. Add the rice and coat in the butter and spices. Put in an ovenproof pot and pour veg stock over, enough to just cover the rice. When it is all absorbed, check and add a bit more if necessary. Cook at 140ºC until all liquid is absorbed. Taste the rice and if it is still al dente add some more stock and cook for a few more minutes.
Bring all ingredients to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer and cover. Cook for 20-30 minutes until all water is absorbed. Remove from heat and fluff with a fork. I like to eat this with Cape Malay curry, a mildly spiced curry.
Stir in the cream and fish and warm through, taste and add a little lemon juice if necessary. Add the spring onions and parsley and divide into bowls. Cut the eggs in half and place on top of the kedgeree and serve. This looks like a small portion but it is very rich!
Arroz con Leche, German Lucarelli, Soho House New York serves 8-10 This is a traditional dessert from Argentina which is very similar to rice pudding 200g / 1 cup Double Carolina rice (or other long grain rice) 1 qt / 1 litre milk 100g / ½ cup sugar 1 vanilla bean (pod) zest from ¼ lemon (just the yellow part, avoid the pith) 1 cinnamon stick
The objective is to create a creaminess from the combination of the starch from the rice, the butter and the parmigiano. In Italian, we call it manticato and serve it al onda (on the wave), which is when you reach the perfect texture.
Place milk, rice, vanilla bean and lemon zest in a pot. Cook over a low heat until the rice is very tender, about 40 minutes, stirring constantly. Incorporate the sugar at the very last moment. Serve warm or cold, dusted with cinnamon.
Let risotto rest for 5 minutes, covered, before serving. Enjoy with a nice glass of wine. There is an Italian phrase that says “rice is born in water and dies in wine”.
jOin the gang!
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C O O K H O U S E 2 1
Out & about
Tripping yarns
Sometimes it’s important to down tools and take a few hours to learn something new about the craft of cooking - whether from experts visiting your kitchen, or getting out and tasting new things. Here’s a round up of what Soho House Group chefs have been learning this quarter.
Macken Meat Demo
Macken Brothers butchers specialise in free-range, organic and naturally fed meat. They paid a visit to Dean Street Townhouse to do a demo for the chefs of some of their winning ways with beef. They’ve been a family butcher since 1960 and serve over 100 restaurants every day. Almost all Soho House’s London-based chefs will get to go on a half-day butchery training course at the Selfridges site – where they age all their meats – during the course of the summer.
mackenbros.co.uk
Laverstoke Park Farm Visit
Laverstoke Park farm is run by the inimitable Jody Scheckter, former racing car driver turned farmer. Tank Loy, chef and Cookhouse ambassador took three London sous chefs there for the day: “It’s a 350 acre site and we looked round the whole farm – from the abattoir and where they do the meat processing to seeing the farm’s buffalos and the phenomenal ice cream and mozzarella made with their milk – it was probably the best I’ve tasted. The buffalo are huge! I stood next to a hanging buffalo carcass and I’m 6’2” and I didn’t come halfway up it. We tasted their homemade lager and ales and visited the lab where the team are researching the best kinds of soils for growing.”
Southbank Fish
C O O K H O U S E 2 2
Another successful demo was held at Dean Street Townhouse when the team from Southbank Fish paid a visit to show off their wares – everything from gurnard and sole to bream and bass. Chefs got a chance to learn about sustainability in fishing today, and they were all given a short filleting course.
Miller Time
Continuing our relationship with Millers Bakeries (see last issue for an interview with baker Marcus Miller), a group of Soho House chefs got taken on a tour of his site. It may be very, very big but he still cooks his breads in artisan style!
Above, Macken Brothers demo their meat and below, Southbank Fish show off their wares
Chefs’ Table
Led by Pete McAlister, head chef at Hoxton Grill, a team of hand-picked chefs went for a coffee roasting session at Ozone Coffee in east London. When they got back to Hoxton Grill the bar team whipped up some of their famous espresso Martinis. As if that weren’t enough, the chefs were then treated to a bring-me-food feast. All the chefs who attended were chosen by their head chefs as being deserving of a reward – and this sounds like a good one!
Franconian Sausages
Former head chef John Paul started up his own sausage factory in 1988, and has fast become one of London’s most in-demand sausage suppliers. After starting out with just three types of bratwurst, the Franconian sausage factory has expanded its range to any brilliant and bizarre request that comes through the door. As well as bestsellers ‘The Londoner’, his deliciously smoked black pudding and Kasekrainers, John Paul and his team have crafted exclusive products from camel, llama, crocodile, cobra and springbok. John Paul brought his passion to Dean Street Townhouse with a great demo.
o t n o i s s a p s i h t h g u o r b l u a o m John P e d t a e r g a h t i w e s u o h n Dean St Tow
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C O O K H O U S E 2 3
Patriotic Cakes
Jake Rigby-Wilson is Soho House UK’s new Group pastry chef (for our interview with him see page 28). Even though he’s extremely busy overseeing the pastry sections in more than 10 kitchens, he still occasionally has time for a spot of fun and in order to get all teams prepped for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, he held a special patriotic cake-decorating class.
Foraging in Los Angeles
Wild Food instructor Pascal Baudar led the Cookhouse and House Tonic teams for a morning of foraging and adventuring just outside Los Angeles. Julia TaylorBrown, who runs Cookhouse and House Tonic’s US programmes, explains more: “With Pascal’s guidance, the teams found ingredients like wild radish, chickweed, nettle and sage at the first location, and then moved on to a second to gather green walnuts, watercress, elderflower, fennel and three different types of currants; red, black and golden. A plethora of hallucinogens and psychotropics were also found, but those (fortunately?) did not make it into our baskets. Who knew there was such a bounty of ingredients in LA County?
Above, Jubilee baking and below, the LA teams go foraging
The group then caravanned back to Cecconi’s West Hollywood to play with their foraged ingredients. What was the Cookhouse winner? That would have to be Rigo and Andrea’s goat’s cheese and nettle pizza. We’re excited to see how the House Tonic team’s bitters turn out!”
Westcombe Cheddar
C O O K H O U S E 2 4
Cookhouse teamed up for a trip with our sister programme House Tonic, which focuses on bar staff. Antonella Bonetti from Babington House takes up the story: “At Westcombe Dairy we were met by Tom Calver, the young man behind a great cheese: the Westcombe cheddar. Tom explained the ins and out of cheese making while we watched a vat of curd being stirred. Tom’s passion for his job comes through in the quality of his cheese. The emphasis is on using high quality ingredients and ensuring that their cows are happy and well looked after. His family has been
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Out & about
making cheddar since 1890. They now produce about 100 rounds each week, ageing the cheeses for up to 20 months. This means that they wait longer for a return on investment but the final product is a fine cheese.
This is how they make it: fresh milk is brought to the dairy and poured into a vat. It takes a gallon of milk to make a pound of cheddar. A special starter culture is added and the milk is stirred and slowly warmed to around 35°C. Once it reaches a certain level of acidity a rennet is added that, over 45 minutes, causes the milk to set into a jelly-like coagulum. This is like a huge junket. Cheese-making can begin once the curd has a ‘clean break’ and is fully separated from the liquid whey. At this point the whey is drained off and the resulting curd is transferred to long shallow cooling trays to settle. Then, by hand, they cut, stack and repeatedly turn the curd to ensure that all the moisture is drained away. This is the famous process of ‘cheddaring’ and a crucial part of the process which ensures that West Country farmhouse cheddars have their trademark texture. During the cheddaring the acidity in the curds is rising all the time in a controlled way. This slight acidity preserves the curds and allows the cheddar to be kept for a long period of time to mature it correctly. The curds are then finely chopped or ‘milled’ and salted and are ready to be packed into moulds. After the cheese has been pressed for at least 24 hours, the labour of love continues. Each cheese is removed from its mould and wrapped by hand in a soft cheesecloth bandage, then bathed in hot water, rewrapped and repressed and then greased with lard (this helps form the rind) before being labelled and taken to the farm’s store. The smell is overwhelming. Here the cheeses are stored at 8–9°C and turned regularly. The cheese will mature for at least 10 months before it is considered ready to eat. Tom let us taste a few cheddars, analysing the different flavours and textures at different stages of maturity. Afterwards we moved on to Blindman’s Brewery for an ale tasting and finished up with lunch in the Log Room at Babington.”
r? e n n i w e s u o h k e Coo h t s a w s ' t t a a o h g W s ' a e r d n & A o g i R e b o t ve a! That would ha z z i p le t t e n and e s e e h c www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
C O O K H O U S E 2 5
taste by appointment
A matter of taste
NICHOLAS’ BESPOKE COCKTAIL 35 ml / 1 oz Grey Goose vodka 25 ml / ¾ oz Kamm and Sons 25 ml / ¾ oz Cocchi Americano barspoon Cynar dash licorice and coriander bitters
Continuing Cookhouse’s partnership with Grey Goose vodka, editor Rebecca Seal and Nicholas Fitzgerald, senior sous at Pizza East Shoreditch, spent an afternoon with mixologist Joe McCanta. The aim? To find out how taste works, discover if they were supertasters and get a mighty fine personalised cocktail designed.
Stir all ingredients then strain over fresh ice. Garnish with pink grapefruit zest and coriander sprig.
SPOILER ALERT! Don’t read on if you plan on signing up for a Taste by Appointment. We don’t want to ruin the surprises in store for you! Taste by Appointment is a series of interactive lectures led by Grey Goose’s mixologists and a selection of top chefs. They are being held at top venues across the UK this summer, including Shoreditch House on 10th June. After explaining some of the science behind how taste works, Joe treated us to a series of different mystery flavours plus a quick questionnaire on the kinds of foods that we like. We found ourselves spraying bitter and sweet liquids onto our tongues, and nibbling unidentifiable foodstuffs. All of this was to figure out if we were supertasters or not. “Although people talk about being a supertaster as though it’s desirable, often it’s actually not, because you end up living your life eating very bland things: supertasters often don’t like tastes at the far ends of the spectrum of flavour because they are too intense for them,” said Joe. However, he did explain that a few supertasters are known as habituated supertasters, meaning they’ve learned to love extreme flavours. Nicholas likened it to his experience of working in a cheese shop. “It was like being a drug dealer. You start people who hadn’t tried powerful cheese before with something mild and they’d come back and go, ‘Yeah, that was great. But have you got anything, you know, stronger?’” We were both definitely still hoping we were supertasters but we seemed to like too many of the flavours we were given. Fortunately though, the final test proved that we both were – phew! – as we could detect a particular flavour that only 1 in 4 people can pick up. Interestingly, Joe explained that Japan has a much higher proportion of supertasters, which perhaps explains their love of more subtle dishes, while India has masses of so-called nontasters, who have very few taste receptors (on average 1 in 4 of the population, again), which could explain their enthusiasm for fiercely flavoured food. Other experiments proved how much of an effect smell has on taste – we nibbled a sweet-looking meringue while sniffing a doily soaked in sweet strawberry essence, only to discover when we removed the doily that the meringue was actually incredibly sour. It was made with the juice of three lemons, but our mouths couldn’t detect the sharpness until the scent was gone. (Some 95% of what we taste is dependent on what we smell.) C O O K H O U S E 2 6
Last but certainly not least, Joe took Nicholas behind the bar to create a personalised cocktail for him. From his questionnaire and tastings it was clear that he would like a slightly bitter, balanced drink. So Joe used coriander and licorice bitters, Cocchi Americano (a quinine-enriched aperitivo), Grey Goose vodka, Cynar (an artichokebased vermouth), Kamm and Sons (a ginseng herbal liqueur) and some fresh coriander to create a drink Nicholas loved. “It’s woody and pine-y and the complexities of the ingredients work together really well,” said Joe. “It’s bitter but it’s not a Negroni,” said Nicholas.
“It’s excellent.”
www.greygoosetaste.com
It’s the taste! Our very willing volunteers get stuck in
yeah that was great, but have you got anything, you know, stronger?
sweet things
Jake’s cakes
Introducing Jake Rigby-Wilson, Soho House’s new Group pastry chef. My earliest memories are of being taken downstairs to my grandparents’ bakery in south London, sitting on a wooden bench and being given bits of dough to play with or meringues to eat. We lived above the shop and my auntie lived above us, and the bakery had been going since 1890 when my family came over from Germany. It was very old-school – we had coal-fired stone ovens and someone would have to climb inside once a year to check for broken bricks. My dad, being a young hippy, didn’t want to carry on the business. But all I ever wanted to do though was be a pastry chef and I started in catering as soon as I finished my GCSEs. I trained for three years at Westminster College, and then worked at Nobu and Ubon before joining the Ivy where, over about four and a half years, I worked my way up to number two pastry chef. Then I took a break and went travelling – to Australia, New Zealand, America and Canada – and when I came back I was offered the pastry chef job at Le Caprice. I moved to Dean Street Townhouse in 2010 and became Group pastry chef in February this year. I love it – it certainly keeps me busy! There’s always something new happening with this company. We’ve got all the new openings coming up and the House Festival in June, when I’ll need to make 3000 scones, quiches and cakes. I’ve also started a Slow Cook training programme for the other pastry chefs – it means we can share ideas, get to know each other, cover each other’s holidays and move around the business. It can be lonely being a pastry chef as sometimes you’re the only one, and I’d like to change that.
C O O K H O U S E 2 8
There's always something new happening with this company Some of Jake’s family’s bakeries in early 1900s London
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VANILLA CHEESECAKE
100g / ¾ cup sugar 450g / scant 2 cups Philadelphia cream cheese 600g / 2 ½ cups double (heavy) cream 1 vanilla pod (scraped) 1 lemon zest
Place the ingredients in a machine bowl and whisk together until firm.
Cheesecake base 250g / 9 oz digestive biscuits 100g / 3 ½ oz melted butter Blitz the biscuit with the melted butter, press firmly down into a metal ring and spoon the cheesecake mix on top. Leave in the fridge till ready to serve. De-mould the ring just before. This is a quick and easy recipe, can be served with fruit compote.
Quick tip: beat the Philadelphia, sugar, vanilla, lemon before adding the cream. This helps break down the lumps in the cream cheese.
SCONES
750g / 4 ¾ cups soft flour 40g / ¼ cup baking powder 170g / 1 ½ sticks butter 125g / ¾ cup sugar 3 eggs 210ml / 1 scant cup butter milk 125g / ¾ cup sultanas Rub flour, baking powder, sugar and butter together till it resembles bread crumbs. Add milk, eggs and sultanas and mix to a smooth dough. Wrap dough and leave to rest in the fridge for 2 hours. Roll dough 2-3cm deep and cut. We use a 6cm cutter. Glaze with egg yolk mixed with a little sugar. Bake at 190ºC / 375 ºF / gas 5 for 14-16 min Best served warm with Cornish clotted cream and strawberry jam. In Devon they serve their scones without the fruit inside, compared to the Cornish. It’s a good way to know which side of the border you are on down that way. My Auntie is from Devon and refuses to eat them if they contain sultanas; as if I was betraying the people of Devon. Needless to say the recipe works fine with or without the fruit added.
Quick Tip: When placing on baking trays use the bottom of the dough as the top. It will have a flatter side and give a nicer finish.
BEAN COUNTERS
Cacao? What is that? Don’t you mean cocoa? And how do you say it anyway? The official name of the chocolate tree is Theobroma cacao but, some experts say, over the years the word “cacao” became Anglicized and people started replacing it with the word “cocoa”. (Most of us grew up saying cocoa bean, not cacao bean.) Now, with the rebirth of old-style, artisanal chocolate there is a movement to reclaim the bean’s rightful name: cacao.
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CHOCOLATE POT
450g / 2 scant cups cream 450g / 2 scant cups milk 180g / ¾ cup egg yolk 90g / 2/3 cup sugar 360g / 12½ oz 70% dark chocolate Bring the cream and milk to the boil. Allow to cool. Pour onto the yolks and sugar. Return to a low heat and continue to mix till a smooth custard texture is reached. It should coat the back of a spoon. Pour onto the chopped chocolate while warm and stir till the chocolate is completely mixed into the custard. Pour into glasses and leave to set in the fridge.
Cream for top: 125g / ½ cup crème fraiche 125g / ½ cup cream 25g / ¼ cup icing sugar Whip till soft peaks, pour onto the set chocolate pots.
Quick Tip: Often you will see packages
labelled with % cacao. What that refers to is the percentage of cacao bean solids present in the bar. There is an inverse relationship between the percentage of cacao in a bar and the amount of sugar. So: • A 75% cacao bar has 25% sugar. • A 65% cacao bar has 35% sugar. •T he higher the % cacao, the less sweet the bar and the stronger the chocolate taste.
The Difference: Cacao, pronounced Ka-Kow, refers to the tree, its pods and the beans inside. Cocoa, pronounced Koh-Koh, refers to two byproducts of the cacao bean – cocoa powder and cocoa butter. Both are extracted from the bean when it is processed in the factory.
C O O K H O U S E 2 9
member’s recipe
Sole power
Friend of Cookhouse Martin Morales opened a new Soho hotspot, Ceviche, earlier this year, specialising in Peruvian food. This is his perfect ceviche recipe. “This is the simplest of ceviches, made here with one of the UK’s tastiest fish, the Dover sole. Any kind of sole or other white fish would work as well.” 600g Dover sole or other fresh white fish (filleted weight) 2 large onions, very sliced thinly juice of 15 limes (see method) 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1cm piece ginger, finely chopped 1 Limo chilli, seeded and finely chopped 3 coriander stems, leaves attached, salt
Twenty minutes before you are ready to start, put the fish in the freezer to firm up - this will make it much easier to cut precisely.
Sprinkle the salt over the fish. Sieve the lime juice and pour this over as well. Gently turn over the fish to ensure an even coverage of salt and lime (this is most easily done with the fingertips). Refrigerate for at least half an hour – during this time the fish will “cook” in the lime juice marinade.
Wash the sliced red onion then leave to soak in iced water for 5 minutes. Drain thoroughly, spread out on kitchen paper or a tea towel to remove any excess water then place in the fridge until needed. Roll each lime to loosen the juice, then squeeze. Be firm, but gentle – you need to try to avoid tearing the membranes in the limes, as this can make the juice bitter. Add the garlic and ginger. Roughly chop one of the coriander stems and also add to the lime juice. Remove the fish from the freezer and cut into dice around 3cm x 2cm. Try to keep your dice as uniform as possible. Place in a large bowl.
C O O K H O U S E 3 0
hot stuff?
When you are ready to serve, remove the onions and the fish from the fridge. Roughly chop the remaining coriander and add it to the onions, along with the finely chopped chilli. Spread the onion mixture onto a large serving platter. Strain the fish from its marinade and sprinkle this over the onions, then pour over around half the remaining marinade. Serve immediately. Ceviche 17 Frith St, Soho, www.cevicheuk.com
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! y a w a s k o o h
C
Soho House Group is recruiting. We are looking for chefs and staff for our newest project, Chicken Shop, which is all about the best marinated, rotisserie-grilled chicken and simple sides. Would you like to join our crew and get cooking? We also have opportunities in our sites around the world. We offer great training and support, the chance to work internationally and our Cookhouse programme is designed to help you make the most of your cooking career.
GET IN TOUCH! cookhouse@sohohouse.com
FLEUR DE GREY GOOSE CREATED BY TOM KERR 35ML GREY GOOSE LE CITRON, 60ML FRESH PINK GRAPEFRUIT, 5ML CRÈME DE VIOLETTE, 10ML HONEY WATER. COMBINE ALL IN A SHAKER AND SHAKE HARD. DOUBLE STRAIN INTO A CHILLED COUPETTE AND GARNISH WITH A FEW ROSE PETALS
PAIRED WITH SEASONAL ANTIPASTI
CREATED BY HEAD CHEF OF SOHO HOUSE BERLIN, JON POLLARD
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