COOKHOUSE the food magazine from Soho House
SWEET TREATS The Great Soho Bake Off Marcus Wareing & José Méndin Berlin food guide The Edible Cinema Issue 18 Autumn 2014
Autumn 2014 Welcome to the autumn 2014 issue of Cookhouse. As the weather gets cooler, our thoughts always turn to comfort food: we’ve got a delicious set of sweet recipes by Soho House’s pastry chefs to tempt you into the kitchen, and we’ve asked some of our game-loving chefs to share their tips on cooking this season’s rich, wild meat to perfection. If you’re planning a trip to Berlin soon, check out our guide to the best places to eat in town, and we’ve also got a behind-the-scenes look at how the Electric’s Edible Cinema experience is put together. All this, plus exclusive interviews with London’s Marcus Wareing and Miami’s José Méndin. If you’d like to join one of our growing kitchen teams, email email@example.com
From the food world
Eat your way through Edible Cinema
FOOD ON FILM
SWEETS FOR MY SWEET
WHAT I KNOW
Soho House London’s Daisy Matthews
Meet Miami's José Méndin
THE CLASSIC DISH
Our insider’s guide to Germany's coolest city
Marcus Wareing is fed up with fine dining
Pastry recipe special
GAME FOR ANYTHING
From rabbit to roe deer, how to make the most of nature’s bounty
IN SEASON NOW
Pizza East’s meatballs
CUT IT OUT
A Mexican feast from Phaidon’s latest culinary classic
Essential eating for autumn
SOHO HOUSE EVENTS Catch up with our chefs
The effect of rising rents on the new crop of restaurateurs
you know who you are... Editor: Rebecca Seal Art Etc: Dominic Salmon Publisher: Dan Flower Thanks to: Kate Maxwell, Tim Pozzi, Lauren Shaw, Clemency Keeler, Kate Barry, Dai Williams, Steven Joyce, Camilla Karlsson Cover image and facing page: Steven Joyce
nibbles and food news
NEW OPENINGS Soho House Chicago has opened its doors in Fulton Market, with a gym, spa, and hotel rooms, as well as everything members have come to expect from Soho House’s private spaces. Look out for Hubbard & Bell this autumn, a classic American grill opening in Holborn, London. The menu features
meat cocktails, lump crab and chargrilled Texas T-bone steak, among other surf ‘n’ turf choices. There will also be a Chicken Shop in the basement. For Shoreditch’s meat lovers there’s a new addition to the Tea Building, which houses Shoreditch House – a brand spanking new Dirty Burger.
In a few months, Soho House will open its biggest ever club, in what was Istanbul’s first American consulate building. As always, our goal is to celebrate the unique features of the site and we’re in the process of restoring many of the building’s original frescos and fireplaces. Head over to houseseven.com to see a video progress report.
Soho House Chicago, Hubbard and Bell, Soho House Istanbul
Our editor, Rebecca Seal, has just released a follow-up to her previous recipe book, Istanbul. This collection (above) features time-honoured dishes gathered from Greece, called The Islands of Greece: Recipes from across the Greek Seas. (Published by Hardie Grant, £25) Believe it or not, you can now bring rhythm to your kitchen in the form of Rapper’s Delight: The Hip Hop Cookbook. The book, which is very funny, features 30 recipes inspired by hip hop artists. Think Wu-Tang Clam Chowder, Public Enemiso Soup, Run DM Sea Bass and Busta Key Lime Pie. (Dokument Press, £9.99) If you’re a burger aficionado living in southern England, chances are you’ve made a pilgrimage to one of the sassy MEATliquor venues. Now you can replicate the deliciously down-and-dirty experience at home, with the release of The MEATliquor Chronicles: Chapter and Verse by Yianni Papoutsis and Scott Collins. (Faber & Faber, £25) The Cookbook Book is a compendium celebrating the world’s most influential kitchen tomes, bringing together selections from classic cookery volumes over the past 125 years and looking at how they’ve influenced the way we eat. (£35, Phaidon) Ina Garten, aka the Barefoot Contessa, has a new book out this autumn, Make It Ahead, which is full of handy, forward-thinking advice, whether you’re prepping for a party or simply organising a week-night supper. (Clarkson Potter, $35) Plenty More is the follow up to bestselling über-food writer Yotam Ottolenghi’s Plenty. It features 120 mindblowing vegetable-based recipes from the Israeli-born chef with his signature Middle-Eastern flavours. (US: Ten Speed Press, $35; UK: Ebury, £27)
OUR FAVE NEW FOOD APP If you’re always taking snaps of your food, you’ll love Foodmento. It’s a perfect fusion of Instagram and Foursquare, with all sorts of other good stuff thrown in – you can rate and rank dishes, share them, search for them, stick them on a map and get directions, and it helpfully autopopulates the captions for you. Nifty.
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY... Autumn is a great season for food and drink festivals – here is our pick of the best
26-28 Chicago Gourmet, chicagogourmet.org 25-28 Galway Oyster Festival, galwayoysterfest.com
10-13 The Great American Beer Festival, Denver, greatamericanbeerfestival.com 11 Framlingham Sausage Fest, Suffolk, framsausagefest.co.uk 10-12 Apple Weekend, Oxfordshire, waterperrygardens.co.uk 16 – 19 Food Network New York City Wine & Food Festival, New York, nycwineandfoodfestival.com The Barefoot Contessa’s latest, Make It Ahead; Plenty More by Yotam Ottolenghi; The Cookbook Book; The Meatliquor Chronicles and The Hip Hop Cookbook
14-16 MasterChef Live, londonbbcgoodfoodshow.com
nibbles and food news
THE BEST TABLES TO SCORE RIGHT NOW Bon Appétit magazine, the American food glossy, has just published its much anticipated list of the 10 best restaurants in America this year. They span from Seattle and San Francisco to Philadelphia and NYC – how many can you tick off?
First up, who knew you could go to gelato university at all? Turns out that not only can you attend courses at Carpigiani Gelato University in Bologna, but you can also do their advanced courses all over the world - the most recent addition has just opened in Vancouver, where James Coleridge, a CGU grad himself, is offering extra courses at Bella Gelateria in how to make and serve the perfect ice cream. Alternatively, you can learn in Dubai, South America, Shanghai, Tokyo, the Netherlands of the UK. Make ours a double choc chip with sprinkles, please. gelatouniversity.com
1. Rose’s Luxury, Washington, DC 2. High Street on Market, Philadelphia 3. Estela, NYC 4. Tosca Cafe, SF 5. Westward, Seattle 6. Central Provisions, Portland, ME 7. Hot Joy, San Antonio 8. Thai-Kun, Austin 9. Maurice Luncheonette, Portland, OR 10. Grand Central Market, LA
...AND THE TOUGHEST If you fancy a bit more of a challenge, Eater.com has recently released a list of its own – the 11 toughest restaurants in the world at which to get a table. Double points if you manage to take a pew in one of these. 1. Noma, Copenhagen 2. Sukiyabashi Jiro, Tokyo 3. Next, Chicago 4. Tickets, Barcelona 5. Quintessence, Tokyo 6. The Fat Duck, Bray, Berkshire, England 7. Chef ’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, Brooklyn, New York 8. minibar by José Andrés, Washington, DC 9. Schwa, Chicago 10. The French Laundry, Yountville, California 11. Yam’Tcha, Paris
“How many can you tick off ?” 06 COOKHOUSE
Navigating House Festival
Soho Bar Teams concocting Grey Goose Cocktails
Hundreds of Soho House staff flooded the grounds at Marble Hill House for the return of House Festival, the Soho House event of the year. Teams from across our Houses and Restaurants joined forces to prepare BBQs and platters of seafood, joining vendors from all over London, including the Wright Brothers, Smoke Stack and Rainbo. Our very own Chicken Shop, Dirty Burger and Pizza East were dishing out what they do best and Jake’s Bakes put on a mouthwatering spread of summer fruits and cakes. The Feeling kicked off proceedings with a performance of some of their classic hits, and were followed by a series of acoustic numbers by newcomer Luke Sital Singh. The day continued with electric sets from Jake Bugg, MNEK, De La Soul and Hozier, before festival favourite Kelis took to the stage for a high-energy performance, which included an a cappella rendition of Milkshake, and electro-duo Jungle stormed the stage. Next, guests were treated to an incredible performance from Sam Smith. Brit favourites Paloma Faith and Charli XCX carried the party on into the evening with 30-minute sets of their biggest hits. Dizzee Rascal whipped the crowd into a frenzy with classics including Holiday and Bonkers as the sun finally set over Marble Hill House. A big thank you and well done to all our staff for your hard work. We’re already looking forward to House Festival 2015. With special thanks to AOL On.
EVENTS FOR MEMBERS www.cookhouse.com
Marble Hill House
Dizzee Rascal whips up the crowd
Every month, dozens of food events take place for Soho House members – from wine tastings and cooking lessons to beer and food pairing brunches, in our sites from New York to Miami to Berlin. Check out houseseven.com for more information, dates and to book. You’ll also find eating and drinking guides to the cities we operate in, interviews with top chefs and exclusive recipes.
what I know
DAISY MATTHEWS When did you start your career? I started as an apprentice chef, and my first job was working for the Financial Services Authority in contract catering – which, to be honest, was a nice nine-to-five job. I did a bit of pastry there, but they rightly wanted me to learn about the whole kitchen as well. Quite randomly, at the end of the course I was called by the executive pastry chef at Caprice Holdings, and offered a trial that Saturday. I did it and started work on Monday morning as a demi pastry chef. He’d found my CV on Caterer.com. It was good luck and good timing. It meant I almost fell into being a pastry chef. Why did you take up cooking? I was living in Ireland and I wanted to move back to London and live with my sister. The only way my mum would let me was if I continued my education. For some reason I started a beauty therapy course, but it really wasn’t for me, which is when I started looking at apprenticeships. Once I signed up, I was offered the job at the FSA: I was 17 and, before the apprenticeship, all the money I had was the government’s educational maintenance allowance for staying in education, which was only £30 a week, whereas I was actually paid to be an apprentice. It was such a great opportunity, there was no way I was going to pass it up.
head pastry chef, Soho House London
What are your earliest food memories? I was always interested in cooking, but it’s not like my mum and I always baked together or anything – I don’t have any of those sorts of stories. It sounds cheesy but I really loved Jamie Oliver, and I wanted to be the next version of him. I used to cook a lot with my aunt, who works for the supermarket Waitrose in the staff canteen. My mother was a single mum with two kids to look after, so it’s not like she could be at home every day by the stove.
Are you quite young to be head of a section? Sometimes I do feel like I’ve progressed pretty quickly, but chefs are getting younger because of apprenticeships. I’ve been doing this for four years. Time goes quickly in the kitchen. I waited all last winter for berries to reappear, and they’re already slipping away again.
Where’s your favourite place to eat in London right now? I’m a bit fussy when it comes to meat, but my boyfriend, who is also a chef, wanted us to go to Pitt Cue in Soho, and the deal was that I wasn’t allowed to look at the menu beforehand because it’s very meaty. I had ribs, and they were the best ribs I’ve ever had. (pittcue.co.uk)
What’s your favourite cookbook? The River Cottage Cakes Handbook is so good that I asked [Soho House UK executive pastry chef] Jake Rigby-Wilson to buy a copy for everyone on the pastry team. It’s not complex stuff, but it’s all good and I return to it over and over again. I’m also crushing on the Tartine books at the moment. At Christmas last year the management gave everyone books and I got Indulge by Claire Clark, which is very good for composed desserts.
What’s your working day like? It’s all about making or setting up everything we currently have on the menu – usually five desserts plus cheese, as well as anything extra for functions or set menus. We make scones every day as well for afternoon tea. I think people sometimes underestimate how much we do. We also do service, which other pastry sections in other companies often don’t have to do.
Who inspires you? I don’t feel that inspired by celebrity chefs – I’m more interested in learning from people like Jake [Rigby-Wilson], and seeing how people who started in the same way as me can go far. Tom Collins, head chef here, has taught me a lot about managing people, and now I’m in charge of this section, I take my lead from him. I like to be inspired by people who are real to me n
THE SOHO HOUSE LONDON TEAM SIMON TEMPLE CHEF DE PARTIE Favourite place to eat in London? I find myself at SKB quite often – it’s only downstairs from Soho House and I love their double cheeseburgers. sohokitchenandbar.co.uk
KYUNGHYE OH DEMI CHEF DE PARTIE Favourite place to eat in London? My favourite place to eat is Polpo, for the fun atmosphere and the fact they use the freshest and best ingredients. polpo.co.uk
MANDELA ZUMA CHEF DE PARTIE Favourite place to eat in London? I like to eat at Bistrotheque. I love the way they cook sea bass and the spinach garnish they serve with it is delicious! www.bistrotheque.com
SOUND GOOD? Want to join one of our kitchen teams in London, Somerset, Berlin, New York, LA, Miami, Chicago or Toronto? Email firstname.lastname@example.org or check out our website www.cookhouse.com to find out about vacancies and how to apply.
Photograph by Dai Williams
“I’m inspired by people who are real to me”
EAT BERLIN Not so long ago Berlin was more synonymous with all-night dancing than titillating your tastebuds. Now that’s changed – you can still go clubbing until daybreak, but diners will discover the city has been transformed into one of Europe’s tastiest destinations. We asked Soho House Berlin’s crack culinary team to share with us their favourite foodie hangouts
the guide B
IL HE FD C K J SOHO HOUSE BERLIN
M G B THE BIRD “Go for one of the best steaks in Berlin and a great atmosphere. I recently tried a new local craft beer there, called Prenzlauer Berg (named after the local area) from Crew Republic.” (Mitch Counsell, bar supervisor)
Am Falkplatz 5, Prenzlauer Berg, +49 30 51053283, thebirdinberlin.com
C AUGUSTSTRASSE “Not too far from Soho House is Auguststraße, a popular road for art spaces and restaurants. Inside a very impressive building – it used to a Jewish school for girls – is a fantastic restaurant, Pauly Saal; a great delicatessen, Mogg and Melzer; plus a photography gallery and the JFK museum. Mogg and Melzer is a grand place to start the day with brunch or lunch before exploring the sites – a glass of riesling with a salmon bagel is a really good idea.” (Sam Neary, Club reception) paulysaal.com, moggandmelzer.com, camerawork.de, thekennedys.de
D FLEISCHEREI “This place has a menu that changes weekly, and it’s excellent for meat fiends – in fact it used to be a butcher’s shop. They are particularly known for their black pudding and their calf ’s liver.” (Flavio Schneeberger, management trainee) Schönhauser Allee 8, +49 30 50182117, fleischerei-berlin.com
E DUDU “One of my favourite restaurants is Dudu in the central borough of Mitte, which serves incredible Japanese food and has a great vibe. There’s loud house music and the service is casual but friendly.” (Gabby Bull) Torstraße 134, +49 30 51736854, dudu-berlin.de
F TRANSIT “Busy, cheap and great for sharing, Transit is bloody brilliant. You just fill out your little sheet with what you want, the waitress will pick it up, and then suddenly you have a feast in front of you. The green curry is amazing – nice and spicy!” (Mike Ellis, general manager Pizza East) Rosenthaler straße 68, Mitte, +49 30 247 816 45; Sonntagstraße 28, Friedrichshain, +49 30 269 484 15, transit-restaurants.com
G KIMCHI PRINCESS “As you might guess from the name, this is a Korean place. The bibimbap – marinated beef, vegetables, rice – is always delicious.” (Mike Ellis) Skalitzer straße 36, +49 163 4580203, www.kimchiprincess.com
H KATZ ORANGE “Katz always receives rave reviews for its eclectic modern cooking – I really like it. The staff are ridiculously good-looking, but that’s not a bad thing I suppose!” (Sam Neary) Bergstrasse 22, Mitte, +49 30 983208430, katzorange.com
I GUGELHOF Gugelhof is famous for its Alsatian and South German food – the tarte flambée is to die for. Knaackstraße 37, +49 30 4429229, www.gugelhof.de
J RUBEN UND CARLA “This is another meaty spot – it’s the best place in town for pastrami or tagliata (sliced rare steak).” (Flavio Schneeberger) Linienstraße, 136, Mitte, +49.3027909683, rubencarla.com
K MADCHENITALIENER “If you want home-made pasta – especially spaghetti with truffles – then head for this small and friendly, old-school Italian restaurant.” (Flavio Schneeberger) Alte Schönhauser Straße 12, +49 30 40041787
L BETTY ’N CATY A very cosy café-restaurant, where all the dishes are home-made and organic, with plenty of vegetarian choices and amazing fresh smoothies. It serves the best cheesecake in town. Knaackstraße 8, +49 30 91206850
M MARKTHALLE Every Thursday, Markthalle plays host to a street-food festival, offering dishes from around the world. There’s truly something for everyone.
Eisenbahnstr. 42/43, Kreuzberg, markthalleneun. de/street-food-thursday
FINE TUNING Marcus Wareing explains why the stuffy world of formal dining needs a breath of fresh air
ne of the things that has changed for me lately – and maybe it is because of my age – is that I’ve started to find fine dining a bit tiring at times. You can sit for three hours sometimes and really have to focus on what’s being served to you. I don’t want my customers to have that experience. At my restaurant [Marcus] I have tried to make fine dining accessible. You can come in and have the tasting menu and stay all afternoon if you please, but you can also have just one course or a glass of wine or beer. I don’t think fine dining is over by any stretch of the imagination. But it cannot continue being stuffy, as that’s not what consumers want. I look at the busiest places in London and they are all very relaxed, even those with two or three stars. There’s a perception that the guides (Michelin in particular) will look down on you for
come across. My staff are trained to respond to all our diners’ needs. Whether that’s a party of ten celebrating a birthday or a businessman looking to close a deal who says, “I want to be done in two hours on the dot” – we want them to have an amazing experience. We all like to be spoiled, and that’s where fine dining restaurants have to step in and deliver.
loosening up – but that’s all in chefs’ heads. Michelin judge you for what you put onto a plate. Hand and Flowers – which is a pub with two stars – has proved that.
My third restaurant, Tredwell’s, opens in September and will be much more casual. It is in the heart of theatreland in the West End, on Upper St Martin’s Lane, and will have a buzzy vibe: lots of music, great staff, great food in a cool environment. Customers will be free to make lots of noise and have fun!” n
I have a big belief that it has everything to do with the staff, or about how the staff
Marcus Wareing’s recipes can be found on greatbritishchefs.com
“We all like to be spoiled” WHAT'S IN YOUR FUTURE? Join one of Soho House's kitchen teams for great training. Email email@example.com
TAKE A HIKE?
Local restaurants can be victims of their own success when landlords seek to cash in on revitalised neighbourhoods by increasing rents. The choice for independent restaurauteurs is stark: pay up – or move on
icture the scene: a plucky young chef or restaurateur wants to open their own place, but can’t afford to do it in the ritzy parts of town, so they choose a run-down spot on a scruffy road and open their dream venue more in hope than faith that people will come. Fortunately, they do come, despite the graffiti and the litter and the neighbourhood’s nonexistent reputation, and with them come more restaurants and bars, then cafés and frozen yoghurt shops, farmers’ markets and florists. Then banks, supermarkets, multinational coffee chains and offices join the scene. And then, finally, the last thing to arrive is a demand for a massively increased rent on the space, perhaps from the very landlord who, 10 years previously, couldn’t believe someone wanted to rent the corner plot on an otherwise empty street. It’s a story that has played out dozens of times across cities worldwide in recent years, with the latest high-profile casualty being Danny Meyer’s iconic Union Square Café in New York, which will soon be relocated to a new venue, because the business can’t support its newly increased rent. Writing in The New York Times, Meyer said, “...the very prospect of taking Union Square Café out of Union Square is a heartbreaking pill to swallow.… above all, we love the neighbourhood that has grown around us – and whose character now, thanks to soaring rents, is being altered.” It’s a common problem in the city: Wylie Dufresne’s famed WD-50 will close in November because the building is being knocked down to make way for a new development. Bobby Flay shuttered his restaurant, Mesa Grill, last year, after helping to revitalize the Flatiron district in which it stood, when the rent was increased.
And it’s not only an issue in NYC. José Mendín, who co-founded the Pubbelly Group in Miami (see profile on p16), was recently forced to close a steakhouse he’d opened in Miami Beach because the rents had rocketed. He’s currently looking for a new home for it. “Rents are a huge issue for us,” he says. “We were trying to bring good cuisine at an affordable price to where there were very few neighbourhood restaurants. Now, there’s a lot more going on, and rents have become really high.” In Chicago, more than a dozen long-standing restaurants have closed in recent years. In Berlin Alt Berlin, a much-loved bar in the Mitte, is no longer open, losing its status as the oldest bar in Berlin, having opened in 1893.
“Taking Union Square Café out of Union Square is a heartbreaking pill to swallow”
The same thing has happened in London. In the recently revitalised Brixton Village – formerly an almost derelict section of Victorian covered market – fledgling small food and drink businesses which had taken on tiny, empty shops and turned them into cafés, taco stands or sherry bars, as well as longer established cash-andcarry food stores, were recently hit with unexpected rent hikes. They are victims, it seems, of their own and of the area’s success. Even well-established London restaurateurs are not immune: Russell Norman, who co-owns the wildly popular Polpo group of restaurants, has reportedly
met with a proposed 80 per cent increase on the rent for one of his sites. Adam Hyman is founder of CODE restaurant consultancy and publishes The CODE Bulletin. He told Cookhouse, “Rising rents and hefty premiums due to a shortage of restaurant properties in Central London – especially in areas such as Mayfair and Soho – mean that small, independent restaurants cannot afford to open in Zone 1. Parts of the West End are already monopolised, and it will only get worse. The independent restaurateur is under threat.” The only upside to all this is the effect it is having on suburbs around the world. Take the string of small commuter-towns on the edge of New York City: thanks to Manhattan and Brooklyn becoming too expensive for people of average earnings to either live in or start a business, places such as Hastings-on-Hudson, Dobbs Ferry, Irvington and Tarrytown are all slowly being Brooklyn-ised as creatives move in, and farm-to-table restaurants with bearded bartenders follow quietly in their wake. Chicago’s old guard of restaurants may be under threat, but in the suburbs, more unusual restaurants can thrive: eco-friendly Cottage on Dixie in Homewood, for example, or Vietnamese-Thai-French fusion restaurant Q Restaurant in Orland Park (run by sisters Quee and Quan Huynh). In London the pushing up of prices in areas such as Soho, not so long ago considered a cheap and run-down locale, has improved eating prospects no end for people living in areas as far from the centre as Peckham in the south, now a genuine (and genuinely surprising) destination for good food, or Mile End in the east of the city. Unlikely neighbourhoods are becoming home to an enticing new crop of unfolding restaurant stories n
Chef Jake Rigby-Wilson and Bombay Sapphire brand ambassador Sean Ware
For a truly immersive cinematic experience, book into the Edible Cinema at the Electric, where you can eat and drink your way through the flavours of a classic film aste your way through your favourite movies with the Edible Cinema. Part of our partnership with Bombay Sapphire, Edible Cinema is all about playing with our food (and drinks). Soho House pastry chef Jake Rigby-Wilson and Bombay Sapphire ambassador Sean Ware spend weeks perfecting drinks and small bites that reflect the action in a particular scene. So when, for example, a pine wood catches fire during Pan’s Labyrinth, guests are served pine-smoked popcorn, and in the middle of Some Like it Hot, they sip coffee cocktails with a nod to the illicit bar masquerading as a coffee shop. Don’t expect it all to be delicious and easygoing, though – for a gruesome birth scene in Perfume, which takes place in a fishmonger’s, guests are given strongly flavoured pickled herrings – many of
which were not eaten – while for Trading Places, Sean created a drink that looks and tastes rather like shaving foam. It’s an intensive creative process and a lot of thought goes into it, explains Jake. “We watch the films several times together with events manager Zoe Paterson and experience organiser Polly Betton, as well as on our own, taking notes. Then we bring our strongest ideas together and battle it out to get them included. We play with the dishes or drinks by ourselves, and a week later reconvene to see if our timings and flavours work with the film.” Serving food and cocktails in a dark, warm cinema comes with specific complications, says Sean. “I can’t use ice in any drinks, so everything has to be OK slightly warm,
because you are given everything in numbered packages at the beginning of the film and told when to consume it.” Jake faces similar constraints. “Certain foods, like a pork terrine with butter coating, are out straight away because they won’t survive waiting until the right scene,” he says. “It’s also much more about texture, taste and smell than looks, because it’s usually too dark to see what you’re eating.” They often avoid the most obvious scenes. “You don’t want to distract people from a big moment or something really crucial to the plot,” says Sean. If you’d like to book yourself in to the Edible Cinema, go to ediblecinema.co.uk. Upcoming films include Beyond the Valley of the Dolls at Halloween and Brazil, a fantastical black comedy by Terry Gilliam n
“It’s much more about texture, taste and smell than looks” 14 COOKHOUSE
CLASS OF ’86 25ml/¾ oz Bombay Sapphire gin 15ml/½ oz freshly squeezed lemon juice 10ml/⅓ oz simple syrup 15ml/½ oz Chambord liqueur to float
Photography by Dai Williams
Churn the first three ingredients with crushed ice in a highball glass. Float the Chambord over the top of the drink. Decorate with the tackiest, sparkliest garnishes you can find.
As they arrive guests are given a welcome drink: in this case the Class of ’86, a spin on the Bramble created by Dick Bradsell in the same year, designed for maximum 1980s tackiness
Grosse Pointe Blank grub Jake and Sean explain: For those who’ve not seen it, Grosse Pointe Blank, our latest Edible Cinema event, stars John Cusack as a hitman returning home for a high-school reunion. Pictured are a few of the dishes we created, including the welcome cocktail, above. From top: for a shoot-out scene we created gunpowder popcorn tossed with charcoal and saltpetre, then smoked using a smoking gun. For a breakfast scene we tried to recreate the feel of an old American diner, so we made cornbread grits with maple syrup and bacon. When two characters smoke a joint in a car, we attempted to replicate the flavours using food-grade hemp oil, lemon, cocoa and mint, which we julienned to keep the stringy green texture. Then we wrapped them in rice paper – it was very time-consuming to make 160 of them! This is slightly grim, but for a scene in which the hit man kills someone, we went for crackling and sausage, with Algerian-style spices. The cake is for the moment when the hitman visits his father’s grave and pours whisky over it. It’s a flourless chocolate cake, for the texture of wet mud, and is doused in Scotch. Guests are given the food and drink in a series of numbered packages, and then told to eat or drink them at a specific point in the film.
guest chef interview
“My favourite part of the job is sitting down with our chefs and coming up with ideas”
MIAMI BITES José Mendín, Pubbelly
osé Mendín, 35, is a founding partner and the culinary director of Pubbelly, a small but very successful group of restaurants in Miami. He has worked all over the world and across the USA, for groups like Nobu and Sushisamba, but left that behind to open up his own place, the first Pubbelly project – a gastropub in Miami Beach.
When I was a kid growing up in San Juan, my mom wouldn’t let us cook at home. She was very, very picky about her kitchen and we were maybe allowed to make sandwiches, but nothing else. So the first thing I cooked was Puerto Rican beans and rice, to a recipe she gave me, when I was in college. I completely fell in love with Puerto Rican beach food when I was seven or eight years old. The beach was lined with kiosks and stands serving fried food, like fritters and fish. I would go surfing just because I got the chance to eat at the beach afterwards. I can’t really say what inspires me to cook, because there are so many things – the seasons, my own cravings and other people’s, my mood. I love the reaction of people when I cook for them and it makes them happy. My parents laughed in my face when I said I wanted to work as a chef, although ultimately my dad was supportive and helped get me my first job, as a dishwasher and prep cook. I did a year to prove to them I wanted to
do it, but I became hooked on the first day. I’d played sports at college but then dropped out, and it was exciting to be back as part of a team. I was proud to be in service. Later, I went to culinary school in Miami and got a bachelor’s degree. My first place in Miami, Pubbelly, came out of trying to do a neighbourhood gastropub, which Miami Beach didn’t have. We use some European techniques, but with some Asian flavours. I worked at Nobu in Miami and London and El Chaflán in Spain, so we incorporate some high-end practices as well. It was successful from the beginning; people seemed to understand what we were doing. Then we opened Pubbelly Sushi next door, which was an extension but also different – traditional sushi, but done in a fun way. At the same
time, with other partners, I opened Barceloneta, so yeah, that was a lot of work. Then the year after we opened Macchialina, which is Italian, but I’ve sold my share in that back to the other partners. Next was PB Steak, but we recently closed it and will reopen somewhere else, because the rents round here have gone crazy. And then L’Echon Brasserie opened just a few months ago in Miami’s Hilton Cabana. When I started cooking, I made plenty of mistakes, but there are two big ones in particular that stick with me. One was in a hotel when I was 19 or 20, and my English was not the best. I was told by the chef to “dump the vegetables” for the day’s stock. Well, I dumped them in the garbage, all 100 pounds of vegetables, carefully cooked with wine, not realising that they were supposed to be kept. People made fun of me and I had to do them all again, for no pay. I nearly quit cooking that day. Then at Nobu, I was making black seaweed salad, when I used salt instead of sugar. Again, everyone made fun of me. Now I know the difference between sugar and salt just by touch. Over the last two or three years, I’ve become more of a culinary director. My favourite part of the job is sitting down with our chefs and coming up with ideas, which I get to do once or twice a week. I’m also really involved with other aspects of the business, like design, events and social media. I guess it’s kind of like being a producer, and I love it n Find out more about Jose and his restaurants at pubbellyboys.com
A PIZZA EAST CLASSIC
Pizza East head chefs Matt Luscombe (Portobello) and Brian McGowan (Shoreditch) share their recipe for lamb and veal meatballs PIZZA EAST’S LAMB AND VEAL MEATBALLS
For the meatballs: 150g/5 oz white bread, trimmed of crust, into breadcrumbs 50ml/2 fl oz milk 35ml/1 fl oz double cream 900g/2lb lamb shoulder, trimmed of fat, minced if necessary – see note below 225g/8oz veal shoulder, cubed or minced (try to buy rose or ethically reared veal) – see note below 50g/2 oz pancetta, finely minced/ground 1 teaspoon anchovies, finely chopped ½ onion, minced 1 teaspoon crushed garlic 1 teaspoon parsley, finely chopped 1 teaspoon mint, finely chopped ¼ teaspoon chilli flakes ½ teaspoon ground cumin tomato sauce, to cover (for recipe, see below) splash of chicken stock 1 bay leaf 2 dried chilli pods Note: If you have a food grinder, then you can buy the meat in pieces rather than minced/ground. However, if you don’t have one then you will need to buy minced meat, or ask your butcher to mince the meat for you before making this recipe.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF. Soak the breadcrumbs in the milk and cream. Squeeze out the excess liquid and discard. Mix the breadcrumbs with everything except the tomato sauce, chicken stock, bay leaf and chilli pods. If you have a food grinder, finely grind the mixture. If not, use minced meat and mix everything together well, using your hands. Form the mixture into approximately 24 x 60g balls. In a large frying pan over a high heat, working in batches, carefully brown the meatballs on two sides. Transfer them to a large oven dish and arrange in a single layer. Cover the meatballs with tomato sauce and a little chicken stock to loosen the sauce and prevent drying out while cooking. Add the bay leaves and chilli. Bake for 30 minutes. Serve three meatballs per person, with some of the sauce and a shaving of parmesan on top.
Tomato sauce Makes approximately 1 litre/34 fl oz 2 x 400g cans/1 x 28 oz can of San Marzano tomatoes, drained and pulped 400ml/13 fl oz chicken stock 2 bay leaves handful fresh basil, chopped salt and pepper to taste chilli flakes, to taste You need enough sauce to completely cover the meatballs you are making. Combine all the ingredients in a pan. Reduce the sauce over a medium heat until it has diminished by about a quarter.
“The meatballs have been a menu staple since we opened in October 2009. As a Pizza East classic they won’t be going anywhere anytime soon. They are served with some shaved parmesan on the top and are one of our most popular dishes. Between the three Pizza East sites, we currently sell about 500 portions a week – that’s 1,500 meatballs. It probably cranks up closer to 1,000 portions a week when we’re doing our Christmas parties!”
out......... cut it
Recipes for you to cut out and keep, from chefs around the world TACOS AL PASTOR – SHEPHERD’S TACOS
MARGARITA CARRILLO ARRONTE
Margarita Carrillo Arronte has been writing about and teaching Mexican cookery techniques for 25 years. Now she’s teamed up with Phaidon, the internationally renowned publisher, to create the definitive Mexican cookbook, containing more than 700 recipes. We’re lucky to be able to share one of them – tacos al pastor, a classic casual dish.
5 guajillo chillies, membranes and seeds removed 5 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 3 cloves garlic, peeled pinch of ground cumin 2 cloves 2 tablespoons pineapple juice (optional), plus extra for serving 1 pork leg or rump, thinly sliced, approx 500g/1 lb 2 oz 2–3 tablespoons corn oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced sea salt To serve: 12 small corn tortillas ½ pineapple, peeled, quartered, cored, and sliced 1 small onion, finely chopped 4 tablespoons finely chopped coriander/cilantro salsa Put the chillies in a saucepan, add the vinegar, and simmer for 15 minutes, until the chillies are soft. Add the garlic, cumin, and cloves, then transfer the mixture to a food processor or blender and process to a paste. Add more vinegar, if necessary, and pineapple juice, if using, and strain. Transfer the paste to a saucepan and cook over low heat for 10 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent it from sticking. Remove from the heat and let cool. Spread a thin layer of chilli paste over the slices of meat. Stack them on a plate, cover them with plastic wrap (clingfilm), and let marinate in the refrigerator for 5 hours or overnight. Heat the oil in a frying pan or skillet. Add the pork slices and cook for 2 minutes, turn them over, and cook for 2 more minutes until partially cooked. Remove from the pan, cut into bite-sized pieces and return to the pan. Add onion, a pinch of sea salt, and cook for 3 more minutes. Transfer to a serving dish. Put the tortillas, one at a time, into the pan and cook for 20-30 seconds on both sides. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels.
Mexico: The Cookbook is out now, published by Phaidon, phaidon.com
Divide the pork among the tortillas, add the pineapple slices, onion, and coriander/cilantro, and top with salsa. Serve immediately.
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Photograph by Fiamma Piacentini
Photographs by Steven Joyce
Do you really need to have cold hands to make pastry?
If you needed cold hands to make pastry I’d be in a lot of trouble. Cold hands buy you some more time, but if you have warm hands don’t be discouraged. Touch the dough less with your hands – I often move it around with spatulas and scrapers. (Chef Adam Marca)
THE GREAT SOHO BAKE OFF Seasonal and sweet recipes from Soho House’s pastry chefs Pastry. Some people just seem to have the knack, while for others it’s delicious to eat but scary to make. We asked Soho House pastry chefs to share some of their favourite recipes for the season, as well as a little of their expert knowledge, so we can all have a go at being master bakers. Plus we’ve got some extra help from Richard Bertinet, pastry chef, teacher and author of books Dough, Crust, Cook and Pastry, and now a fifth beautiful title, Patisserie Maison
JAKE RIGBY-WILSON EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF, UK
serves 12, Fills 1 x deep 12-inch tart case This is great for late autumn, especially around Halloween and Thanksgiving.
For the pumpkin filling: 720g/1 lb 9 oz pumpkin puree (ready-made or home-made) 200g/7oz egg yolks 80g/3oz soft dark brown sugar 260g/9 ½ oz caster sugar 2g/1/2 tsp salt 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground ginger 320ml/11 fl oz milk 240g/8 ½ oz double/heavy cream For the home-made puree, you’ll need 2 medium pumpkins. Cook for about 1 ½ hours at 180ºC/375ºF until fork tender. Strain through muslin and leave overnight in the fridge.
(Save the pumpkin skin and the strained juice for making stock – it is great for risotto. The seeds can be candied or toasted for the top of tart.) If you don’t fancy the stress of making the puree, use Libby’s ready-made pumpkin puree. To assemble, preheat the oven to 160ºC/320ºF. Thoroughly mix all the remaining filling ingredients together with the puree. Then fill the pre-baked tart shell(s) (see below) and bake for 20-25min.
For the pastry tart shell 175g/6 oz caster sugar 190g/6 ½ oz soft unsalted butter 2 eggs, beaten 375g/13 oz plain flour
Why do I have to let pastry rest? Two reasons 1) The gluten in the flour will have been worked as you mix it and if you were to use it straight away it would probably shrink as you worked with it or while baking. 2) The dough will be too soft to use due to the butter, and in order to incorporate any egg to the fat it needs to be at room temperature. By letting it rest in the fridge it firms the fat up, making it easier to roll. (Chef Jake Rigby-Wilson)
Preheat the oven to 170ºC/340ºF. Gently mix the sugar and butter together until just combined – don’t over-mix. Slowly add the eggs, followed by the flour, and mix until a dough is formed. Allow to rest in the fridge before rolling out on a floured surface and lining a greased, deep 12-inch tart case. Cover the inside of the tart shell with parchment/baking paper and fill with baking beans. Cook in the oven for 15-20 minutes until the tart case is fully cooked.
For the honeycomb candy 100ml/3½ fl oz water 525g/2¾ cups granulated sugar 150g/5 oz corn syrup 5g/1 teaspoon baking soda/powder Line a large baking tray with a silpat (a greaseproof non-stick silicone liner) or greased baking paper and spray the sides of the pan with oil. Combine the water, sugar and corn syrup in a medium saucepan and cook over a medium heat until the mixture reaches 165ºC/330ºF (you will need a jam or pan thermometer to check this). Carefully add the baking soda and whisk, keeping your hands and arms away from the hot mixture, which will expand and foam up, until the mixture becomes very bubbly and frothy. Then carefully pour out onto the prepared sheet and let cool completely.
HOLDEN BURKONS SOHO HOUSE WEST HOLLYWOOD
DEVIL’S FOOD CAKE WITH CHOCOLATE CUSTARD, HONEY ICE CREAM AND HONEYCOMB
serves 4 For the chocolate custard 190ml/¾ cup whole milk 1 egg yolk 50g/¼ cup granulated sugar pinch of salt 8g/4 teaspoons corn starch/corn flour 120g/4 oz chocolate made with 64% cocoa solids 20g/¾ oz butter Combine all the ingredients except the chocolate and butter in a medium-sized saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, whisking constantly, so as not to burn the corn starch. Once boiling, continue to whisk for one minute. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate and butter directly to the pan, and whisk to combine. Strain immediately through a fine mesh strainer into a baking dish, and cover directly with plastic wrap so that the custard does not form a skin. Chill until set – about four hours.
For the devil’s food cake
For the acacia honey ice cream
190ml/¾ cup water 45g/1½ oz cocoa powder 200g/1½ cups all-purpose/plain flour 920g/4½ cups granulated sugar 5g/¾ teaspoon salt 9g/2 teaspoons baking soda 190ml/¾ cup buttermilk 125g/½ cup canola oil 1½ whole eggs ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
10 egg yolks 100g/½ cup sugar 175g/½ cup acacia honey 500ml/2 cups whole milk 500ml/2 cups double/heavy cream
Preheat the oven to 160ºC/325ºF. In a saucepan, combine the water and cocoa powder. Cook over a medium heat until reduced by half. Keep stirring constantly so the bottom does not scorch. Remove from heat and cool. Mix all the dry ingredients and set aside. Separately, mix all the wet ingredients. Incorporate the wet and dry ingredients together in a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, scraping down the sides every now and then to make sure everything is well mixed. Add the cooled cocoa mixture and mix, scraping down the sides again, until homogenised. Pour the batter into a 23cm x 23cm /9” x 9” cake pan/tin and bake for 24 minutes or until the cake springs back to the touch. Freeze the cake once it has cooled.
(If you don’t have an ice cream maker, a
good quality honey, honeycomb or real vanilla ice cream will work instead.) Whisk together the yolks, sugar and honey, and set aside. Bring the milk and cream to a scald and pour it over the yolk-sugar mixture, whisking vigorously. Chill over an ice bath until cool and then spin in an ice cream machine according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
To assemble Grate the frozen cake with a cheese grater and keep the crumb frozen until ready to serve. Chop the honeycomb candy into dime or 20-pence-sized pieces and set aside. Take out one scoop of the set custard per portion and place in the bottom of four individual serving dishes (the size of a small soup bowl). Place a ring of the cake crumb on the outside of the dishes, then place the chopped honeycomb in the center of the dishes as a base for the honey ice cream to rest on. Quenelle the ice cream and place in the center of each dish, over the honeycomb. Finally, top with a bit more honeycomb and serve immediately.
DAISY MATTHEWS SOHO HOUSE LONDON
serves 4 For the cheesecake topping 750g full-fat cream cheese 100g sugar 250g double cream Put the cream cheese and sugar in a bowl and beat until smooth and combined. Add the cream and beat again until thick. Store in a plastic container in the fridge until ready to use.
For the biscuit base 500g digestive biscuits 250g butter, melted Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF. Crush the biscuits until they resemble fine breadcrumbs, then combine with the melted butter. Bake the biscuit mix in a baking dish for 10 minutes until it forms little clusters.
For the roasted plums 4 plums, halved 100g/3 oz butter 150g/5 oz light brown sugar 1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped out butter Preheat the oven to 170ºC/340ºF. Halve the plums and remove the stones. Place on a baking tray with the brown sugar, vanilla pod, and a little bit of butter. Place in the oven and roast until the fruit starts to soften, 8 to 10 minutes. Allow to cool, retaining all the juices on the baking tray. To serve, scatter some of the biscuit crumbs onto the top of the cheesecake mix. Using an ice-cream scoop, scoop two balls of the cheese mixture onto a serving bowl or plate. Sprinkle with a little extra biscuit crumb. Warm the plums for three minutes in a microwave. Place them next to the cheesecake balls. Drizzle with the plum juice.
Do I really need to bother finding the right kind of flour? Yes. For pastry, plain/all-purpose flour is the best type to use. For cakes, biscuits and scones, use self-raising flour, but you can also use plain flour if the recipe includes baking powder. Plain flour is the best type of flour to use in batters. For bread and pizza bases, strong/bread/ high-gluten flour is ideal. Plain flour is best for sauces. (Jake Rigby-Wilson)
What’s the difference between salted and unsalted butter? And do I really have to use different ones? The short answer is no. Butter is expensive. Salted butters contain different amounts of salt, and it’s hard to say from one producer to another how it’s going to affect a particular recipe. Just buy unsalted butter. That said, my husband is from the Bretagne region of France where salted butter is common, and he has a different opinion to me. If you’re in a pinch, with only salted butter to hand, just omit the salt from the recipe you’re using and it should work out. (Adam Marca)
What’s a good dessert to make for a vegan? I like to make fruit granitas or chocolate sorbet with coconut sorbet, scattered with toasted bits of coconut and shards of chocolate. (Adam Marca)
dough on a clean counter top and work it until it looks more like a dough, but still shaggy. Divide the dough into two even pieces, round them off, then wrap them in plastic. Set aside to chill for at least 2-3 hours or overnight. Roll one piece of dough into a circle. I like to use a 20cm/8 inch pizza pan for guidance. Place on a piece of parchment and chill. Peel and core the apples. Slice into 12 pieces each and set aside. Preheat the oven to 230ºC/450ºF. If you have a pizza stone place it on the bottom of your oven. Smear the blackberry jam over the circle of dough. Get all the way to the edge, working quickly, and then sprinkle the top with a light dusting of flour. Roll or fold the dough edge over to create a crust. Begin to arrange the apples in a flower shape, starting from the outside, working in. Brush with melted butter, using more than you think you need. Take care to brush the dough rim generously, then sprinkle the sugar over the apples from up high, and over the rim, too.
SOHO HOUSE NEW YORK
APPLE AND BLACKBERRY CROSTATA
This recipe can be put together relatively quickly, and it showcases New York’s fall fruits. It’s sort of a flashy version of grandma’s apple pie. Using high gluten flour helps to give the dough crunch, but you can use regular flour if you prefer.
serves 10 For the crunch dough 425g/15 oz all-purpose/plain flour 115g/3¾ oz high-gluten/strong white bread flour 10g/⅓ oz salt 5g/2 teaspoons sugar 325g/11½ oz cold butter 225ml/8 fl oz iced water
For the filling 6-8 large apples 90g/3 oz blackberry jam melted butter demerara or granulated sugar, for sprinkling 250g/half pint of blackberries Note: This recipe makes double quantities of dough – half will keep in the freezer. Sift the flour, salt, and sugar into a large bowl. Take the butter from the refrigerator and cut it into 3cm/1 inch squares. Coat with the flour mixture. Working quickly, pick up each cube of butter and, using your fingers, smash into discs. Drizzle the water over the flour and butter mixture and, using your fingers, quickly rake the water into the dough. Continue until you reach a dry shaggy mass that still contains large chunks of butter. Smear the
Immediately place the tart on to a pizza pan or baking sheet and into the bottom of your oven or onto the pizza stone if using. Bake for 15 minutes at 230ºC/450ºF, then reduce the oven temperature to 180ºC/350ºF, give the pan a ¼ turn and set the timer for another 15 minutes. Turn it another ¼ turn and wait another 15 minutes. On this go around, quickly distribute your blackberries as evenly as possible over the apples. Finish baking with a further 15 minutes or so. This tart generally takes an hour in a professional oven, so use your judgement: the dough should be dark – darker than a bien-cuit baguette – and the apples should be tender but not crispy. Don’t be afraid to give the apple a little nudge with your finger or a spatula to test its softness. Once done, place the crostata immediately onto a cooling rack. Allow to cool for 2-3 minutes and then carefully slide the paper out from underneath it (don’t wait until it’s cold or it will stick). Serve the tart as it is, or with a dollop of crème fraîche seasoned with a pinch of salt and a bit of honey.
KIRSTEN PETTIT SHOREDITCH HOUSE
SPICED APPLE TART
I make this all the time with my family during the fall and winter. It is such a cozy dessert and ready in minutes.
serves 4 3 or 4 granny smith apples (or cooking apples) 1 lemon 50g/¼ cup caster sugar 50g/¼ cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon cloves ⅓ teaspoon nutmeg 4 sheets of all-butter puff pastry (you can buy pre-rolled sheets, or if you buy a block of puff pastry, roll out to ⅓ cm/¼ inch thick) 1 egg, beaten extra sugar for sprinkling Preheat the oven to 200ºC/400ºF. Peel and core the apples and then slice them horizontally into pieces around ½cm/0.2 inch thick (otherwise they will lose their shape while baking), so you will have nice circular slices.
CELINE LECOEUR PISTACHIO FINANCIER WITH GRIOTTES
Makes 12 This is really tasty and easy to make. Griottes are morello cherries. 500g/1 lb 2 oz beurre noisette (see right) 500g/1 lb 2 oz/2½ cups caster sugar 285g/10½ oz ground almonds 215g/7½ oz plain/all-purpose flour 14 egg whites 60g/2 oz pistachio paste a few griottes (or griottines, or frozen or fresh cherries)
Mix the caster sugar and brown sugar together and add the spices. Pat some of the water off the apples and mix them into the sugar-spice mixture. If you have some, take 4 medium-sized tart shells/moulds and lightly grease them (this will help the puff pastry hold its shape). Remove the puff pastry sheets from the refrigerator and trim them into 18cm/6 inch squares, so that they hang over the sides of the tart shells. Place the sugarcoated apples in the middle of the pastry squares. Grab the opposite corners of the puff pastry, bring them into the centre and twist them together. Do the same with the other corners. Once all the tarts are wrapped, give them a quick egg wash and sprinkle a little more sugar over the top. You could chill them at this point if you like, to help them hold their shape, until ready to cook. Bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes or until golden brown and the apples have started to soften. Once your yummy little tarts have finished baking let them sit for a few minutes, then eat them right away! Serve with some vanilla ice cream or double/heavy cream and a dusting of icing/confectioner’s sugar. And if you want to be even more cheeky, add some chocolate sauce.
Can I use frozen berries in the winter?
Yes, although they tend not to feature much on our menus because we try to keep things seasonal. They do make good jams since they break down easily and produce more juice. (Jake Rigby-Wilson)
Preheat the oven to 175ºC/345ºF. For the beurre noisette, carefully bring 500g/1 lb 2 oz butter to the boil in a pan until it takes on a nice light-brown colour. Allow to cool slightly. This butter will give a really nice flavour to your cake. Then mix the sugar, ground almonds and flour together. Add the egg whites and then strain the butter onto the mix through a muslin. (You need to strain the butter to remove any burnt particles.) Finally, add the pistachio paste and mix everything together. Pipe the mix into small individual moulds (a 12-hole muffin tray works well) and place three griottes/cherries on top of each cake. Bake for about 15 mins, until golden and cooked through and a skewer or small knife comes out clean and free of cake mix.
What’s the difference between brown, dark, muscavado and white sugar? Does it matter what I use? This is a pretty big question, but essentially it boils down to the levels of molasses in each type of sugar. You can use light brown, dark brown and muscavado sugars interchangeably, but you will get more delicate flavours the lighter the sugar is. (Adam Marca)
MARK SWINBOURNE THE ELECTRIC
NEW YORK CHEESECAKE CANNOLI WITH BURNT FIG JAM
Serves 10 with 2 cannoli per person For the cannoli shells
To make the cannoli shells, sift the flour, sugar and salt into a bowl and make a well in the centre. Place the butter, yolk and wine in the well and, using your hands, mix until well combined and doughy. Turn the dough out onto a bench or clean work surface and knead until smooth, about 5-10 minutes. Press the dough down flat, wrap in clingfilm/plastic wrap and rest in the fridge for one hour.
260g/9 ½ oz plain flour 20g/¾ oz sugar pinch of salt 1 oz softened butter 1 egg yolk 50ml/1¾ fl oz white wine
Meanwhile, if you don’t have a metal cylinder, find a long heat-proof cylinder that will do instead, about 2cm/1 inch thick and at least 10cm/4 inches long.
For the cheesecake filling
Take a pasta roller, starting with the thickest setting, and roll the dough through it twice. Click the machine down one setting and roll through.
450g/1lb cream cheese 130g/4½ oz caster sugar ¼ teaspoon salt 35g/1¼ oz plain flour zest and juice of a lemon 300g/10½ oz sour cream 4 eggs
For the burnt fig jam makes approximately 400ml/13 fl oz (a little more than needed) 200g/7 oz dark brown sugar 500g/1 lb 2 oz black figs half a vanilla pod, seeds scraped out
Carefully wrap the cylinder in aluminium foil so there are no creases.
Continue to roll through until it’s on the third lowest setting. (It should be the same thickness as your house keys. You can also do this by hand, but it will take longer.) Spray the cylinder with oil. Cut a rectangle from the cannoli sheet just big enough to wrap around the cylinder with a little extra to overlap. Brush it with a little egg wash so it will stick to itself.
Deep-fry the cannoli in flavourless oil at 180ºC/350ºF. Once the pastry is firm, carefully slide it off the tube with tongs. Continue cooking until golden brown all over. Rest on paper towel to drain off the oil. Continue with the rest of the cannoli dough until you have 20 cannoli shells. To make the cheesecake filling, preheat the oven to 230ºC/440ºF. Beat the ingredients together, in the order they are listed, until smooth. Line a 28cm/11 inch tin with greaseproof paper and pour in the mixture. Bake for 10 minutes. Without opening the oven door, lower the temperature to 100ºC/210ºF and cook for a further 35 minutes. Turn the oven off and lest rest in the oven for 1½ hours. Remove from the oven and cool completely, then refrigerate for four hours. To make the burnt fig jam, melt the sugar in a saucepan with a little bit of water and cook over a medium heat until the mixture is just starting to burn and caramelise. Quickly add the chopped figs and the scraped vanilla pod and stir. Cook for about 45 minutes until thickened. To store any excess, while hot, pour into sterilised jars with lids. To serve, break up the chilled cheesecake in a bowl and beat with a spatula until softened. Then fold in a little jam to make a ripple through the mixture. Place the cheesecake mixture into a piping bag and pipe it into the cannoli shells.
PASTRY CHEF AND TEACHER
RICHARD BERTINET’S CLASSIC GENOISE SPONGE
Makes 2 shallow sponges A good genoise sponge is one of the fundamentals of patisserie. You will find a layer of plain or chocolate sponge being used in many of the recipes in my new book, such as those for tiramisu and fraisier, or in mousses. I suggest you bake a few trays at a time and freeze what you are not using immediately, ready to defrost when you need it. You could also use this recipe to make one 21cm/8 inch round or equivalent square cake (7cm/3 inch deep), which will need around 20 minutes in the oven until it is golden and springs back if you touch it gently in the centre. A skewer inserted into the middle should come away clean. Once the cake has baked and cooled, you could simply halve it horizontally, brush each cut surface with sugar syrup flavoured with a dash of kirsch, then sandwich the two halves together with whipped double cream or crème Chantilly and fresh raspberries or strawberries. Finish with a dusting of icing sugar on top. The quantity below will make enough for two shallow (2cm/¾ inch) rectangular sponges baked in a tray approximately 35cm/13½ inches x 27cm/10½ inches. 125g/4 oz caster sugar 4 medium eggs 125g/4 oz plain flour, sifted 25g/1 oz butter, melted a little butter for greasing the tin
Put the sugar and eggs in a bowl (use the bowl of your food mixer if you have one), and stir with a whisk, then put the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water (don’t let the base of the bowl touch the water). Whisk for about 3-4 minutes, until the mixture is foamy and has tripled in size. Transfer to a food mixer with a whisk attachment, or use a hand-held one, and whisk at high speed for about 4–5 minutes until the mixture has cooled down and clings easily to the whisk, which will leave ribbon patterns in the mixture as you lift it. Very gently fold in the flour a little at a time with a metal spoon – you want to keep as much air in the mixture as possible. Then, again very gently, fold in the melted butter. With a spoon, turn the mixture into your trays and tilt it so that it spreads into the corners. Bake in the preheated oven for 12-15 minutes until golden and the centre is springy to the touch. With shallow tray sponges like this you can tell easily when they are done, so there is no real need to do the skewer test – although you can, if you prefer. When the sponge is baked, turn out onto a cooling rack. Now the sponge is ready to use in your chosen recipe. Or to freeze, leave the sponge on its greaseproof paper, put another layer on top, and wrap well in clingfilm before putting into the freezer, where it will keep for around three months.
“Baking is a different job from cooking. In the past, pastry chefs didn’t touch anything in the rest of the kitchen, and vice versa, but that’s changing now. However, not all good cooks can bake, while most good bakers can cook. Baking requires a certain amount of precision, discipline, and good planning – you might need to start the night before, or make several batches of something to use in future recipes. If you don’t feel confident about baking, try making something several times until you do feel confident – do things well and often. Start at the beginning: don’t make sourdough until you can make a good white loaf, so you really understand dough. Learn to make a good salted pastry and a good sweet pastry. Then make a good apple tart several times. After that, you’ll really want to learn how to make proper puff pastry. It is a bit of a faff, but it’s very rewarding. Don’t be afraid: show the pastry or dough who is boss and really take control!” Visit Richard’s website thebertinetkitchen.com to watch videos of all his techniques. Patisserie Maison is out now, published by Ebury.
Photograph by Jean Cazals
Grease two 35cm/13½ inch x 27cm/10½ inch x 2cm/¾ inch baking trays with a little butter and then line them with baking paper.
GAME ON Cooking game can seem daunting to the unitiated. Neil Smith of Babington House advises on everything from wild boar to woodcock
ame season is in full swing, and Soho House chefs lucky enough to work at or visit Babington House in Somerset at this time of year even get to go on the occasional shoot. You don’t need to catch your own game in order to eat it though – most good butchers will be able to get game birds, rabbit or venison in for you if they don’t already have it. But game can seem scary if you’ve never prepared it before. Isn’t it difficult to cook and tricky to handle? Not at all, according to Babington’s head chef and game expert, Neil Smith. So we asked him to clear up a few of the most common gamey questions and myths. Plus, we have a special family recipe for wild hare escabeche from Nano Crespo, who has moved from Soho House Toronto to be the new head chef at Soho House Chicago. I’m not sure if I will like game meat – isn’t the flavour very strong? What should I start with if I’ve never tried it before? A: Game meat can be strong – broadly speaking, the darker the meat is, the more intense the flavour. I would start by trying something like partridge or pheasant, both of which have a much lighter flavour. I’ve cooked small birds before, but the end result is always unpleasantly dry. What am I doing wrong? A: If small birds turn out dry the solution is
probably to cook them less – it’s a common mistake to think that small birds need as long in the oven as larger birds, such as chicken, do. Wrapping birds in bacon and then pot roasting them is a good way to keep the moisture in. Also, make sure to rest the meat before serving it, so that the juices are redistributed around the meat instead of leaking out as soon as you cut into it.
boar; roasted pepper chutney with quail; and crab apple jelly with woodcock. What’s the best way to cook rabbit? A: I like to pot roast rabbit. Cook it low and slow until it falls apart. Pot it up and you’ve got potted rabbit. Or make a nice rabbit stew.
Can you eat game birds if the meat is rare? A: Game is fine when eaten rare, but for me medium-rare is perfect.
What is barding? A: Barding is the technique of wrapping game in fat or fatty meat, such as bacon, pancetta or prosciutto. This helps the bird stay moist and full of flavour.
I cooked some venison steaks that made for very tough eating. Why is that? A: If you overcook venison it will readily become leathery and dry. The way to avoid this is to buy meat that has a good marbling of fat. This will be affected by the animal’s diet and exercise, so make sure you purchase from a good local supplier.
Is cooking with wild meat considered environmentally friendly? A: Consumption of game goes hand in hand with looking after the countryside since much game is considered a pest. Rabbits, for example, destroy crops and young trees, while deer can prevent reforestation in some areas.
What are the best partner ingredients to go with game? A: There are so many delicious pairings for game meats. My particular favourites are juniper and red wine with venison; plums with rabbits; root veg and herbs with hare; swede with guinea fowl; cabbage and bacon with pheasant; bitter leaves and cobnuts with partridge; rich red wine and pasta with
Is game healthier than farmed meats? A: Certainly. It contains no chemicals or hormones, and is not spoiled by the stress of animal housing or abattoirs. Is it easy to gut a game bird? A: Yes, but it can be a messy and smelly business! Any good local butcher will do it for you n
“Dark meat has more intense flavour” 28 COOKHOUSE
SOHO HOUSE CHICAGO
WILD HARE ESCABECHE Serves 4
1 wild hare (skinned, gutted and hung to dry for 24 hours) salt and pepper extra virgin olive oil, for cooking 3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced at a 45º angle 1 large Spanish onion, sliced at a 45º angle 3 fresh laurel leaves a few sprigs of thyme 250ml/1 cup of sherry vinegar or good white wine vinegar 1/3 of a bottle of white wine (not dry – something like sweet sherry, Madeira or torrontes from Argentina) 2 medium-sized tomatoes (heirloom, preferably), split in half and sliced a few sprigs of Italian parsley (leaves only)
Split the hare in half lengthwise and then in half again. Season and sear in a heavy-bottomed pot with some of the oil on all sides until golden brown all over. Remove and reserve the meat. In the same pot place the garlic, carrots, onions, laurel and thyme (make a bouquet with the herbs using butcher’s string), and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until softened but not coloured. Next, return the hare to the pot and arrange the pieces so that the vegetables are sitting on top of the meat. Deglaze the pan with the wine and the vinegar, and cook it down to the point where you can no longer smell the alcohol from the wine. Next, incorporate the tomatoes and bring the whole thing to a gentle simmer. Lower the heat and cover the pan with a paper lid (cartouche). Continue cooking on the stove top or place in the oven at a very low heat for about 23-35 minutes. The meat should be tender by this point. Allow the escabeche to rest for a few minutes and garnish it with the parsley (chopped or not – it’s your call). Serve hot or at room temperature.
LEARN WITH US Soho House is always looking for new talent. Join one of our kitchen teams in Europe or the United States. Find out more by emailing email@example.com or check out our website, cookhouse.com, to find out about vacancies and how to apply.
Try using blackberries to make a sharp sauce for venison or other seasonal game, whizz them into meringues, stir them into frozen yoghurt, or splodge them into a creamy blackberry mess.
In season now
The ingredients that should be finding their way into your cooking this autumn
One of the best things to do with pumpkin is to bake it in a pie – check out Soho House executive pastry chef Jake Rigby-Wilson’s recipe for a killer version on page 19. Alternatively, make a puree with roasted chillies for a spicy dip, or a curry with coconut, coriander and cumin.
Pomegranate seeds add a sweet and sharp tang to anything they accompany – try with crisp winter fennel salads, on spiced lamb or chicken and in yoghurt dressings. They also bring piquancy to aubergine dishes, pancakes, panna cotta or chilli-chocolate puddings.
Buy wild venison for two reasons: it has the best flavour and is the kindest choice for the environment. Cook it fast or very slow – never in between. For tips on how to get the best out of game, see page 28.
For a properly sensory supper, grab a net of mussels. Check they smell briny, not fishy, before you buy, and then use them with anything from chillies and curry spices, chorizo, bacon or pancetta, to dry cider, cream, miso, fennel, tomatoes, sake or saffron.
The much misunderstood cauli is a great way to get some vitamin C over the winter, and it’s also high in vitamin K, an anti-inflammatory. As well as tucking into Soho House’s new whole roasted cauliflower, try it in soup, curried or gratinated, and raw and finely sliced in salads.
Try pears in a salad with smoked fish, stick ’em in a smoothie with some nut butter, chop into a raw salsa for roasted meats, or throw roasted pears into your morning porridge.
Photography by Dai Williams
Not just for puds, apples make a great salad ingredient – try with goat’s curd, a strong, hard, crumbly cheese, or crispy bacon – and can be roasted alongside pork. You could also puree them into pancakes, whizz them into apple curd or apple snow (with meringues), or fall back on that fail-safe comfort dish: apple crumble.
Soho House chefs’ events
BREAKFAST COMPETITION Each London site was asked to put together a team comprising one chef, one bartender and one front-of-house staffer to create and present a tasty, healthy breakfast dish, accompanied by a fresh fruit juice or smoothie. Our panel of judges, Martin Kuczmarski, Ronnie Bonetti, Yasmin Angileri and Lauren Shaw were on the lookout for seasonality, creativity, sharp presentation and great taste while using healthy ingredients. The pressure was on, and there could only be three winners… The team from Shoreditch House was awarded third place, winning a trip to new spinning phenomenon, Pscycle. Tim, Mita, Tilly and Thom presented spiced quinoa, chia and corn-nut cake with sweet-potato custard and avocado and blueberry mint salsa with quinoa pops. Thom’s original smoothie balanced coconut water with pineapple, celery and lime juice, with chilli, avocado, agave and coriander leaves. Pizza East Portobello rolled into second place with a smoked trout and salmon dish featuring avocado, quinoa, spinach and a poached egg, finished with lemon juice. The team won a selection of the best cookbooks out right now. Congratulations to the guys from Hoxton Grill who grabbed first place with their lime, avocado, chlorella and chia seed smoothie, quinoa, whole wheat and Greek yoghurt pancakes and a lemon, chia seed and goji berry muffin. The team will enjoy an evening out at Ottolenghi as their prize.
Top: smoked trout and salmon by Pizza East Portobello; far left Alberto Arui; left, entry from the Soho House team; right, winners, Alexandro de Rosa, Fabrizio Mammalella and Juan Castro Diaz
CHICAGO SCHOOL Soho House Chicago is now open – but what guests don’t know is just how much preparation goes into making it all happen. This summer, the new Chicago team assembled in the city and launched Chicago School, pictured, to make sure all staff knew everything they needed to about the new venue and the Soho House way.
CHEFS' DAY OUT A team of Soho House chefs joined our suppliers Charles Secrett and the MASH team for a day out in Surrey, learning about the history of the company and seeing how crops are grown and harvested. After working up an appetite, the tour finished off with a Pick Your Own BBQ.
LE MARCHE A group of staff got together at Cecconi’s West Hollywood to learn about food from the region of Le Marche, Italy with chef Alessio Biangini, who grew up there. The cuisine uses seafood from the coast and proteins and produce from the mountains.
Top, chef Tom Collins; left aubergine with chimichurri; right, charred celeriac with pesto
BARBECUE MASTERS Head Chef Tom Collins joined us on Shoreditch House Roof for a summer barbecue masterclass for staff from across our London Houses and Restaurants. From chargrilled vegetables to lip-smacking summer marinades, Tom showed us how to own the barbecue and cook up some simple but creative and delicious summer dishes.
WESTCOMBE DAIRY Staff from our London sites and Babington House met in July at Westcombe Dairy, a family-run artisanal dairy farm in the heart of Somerset. They were given a full tour around the dairy and shown the production process from milk to cheese. And, of course, they got to try the full range of cheeses, from Westcombe unpasteurised mature cheddar to Somerset ricotta.
Cookhouse set sail last week from Brighton Marina with a group of keen chefs hoping to hook some flounder, plaice and sea bream. With four hours out at sea, the team pulled up a broad selection of beautiful (and some poisonous) fish. Back on dry land, the chefs enjoyed a well-deserved meal of fish and chips.
BURRATA IN BERLIN Chefs from Soho House Berlin took a trip across to local factory, Pauella, which produces burrata as well as buffalo mozzarella, just outside Berlin. Having watched the production, our chefs were invited to taste the strong buffalo milk and deliciously creamy mozzarella balls.
For more on all these stories, visit cookhouse.com, where you’ll also find information about how to apply for jobs in Soho House’s kitchens around the world.
Celebrating the heroes of our kitchens
Soho House London nominated by Leon Lawrence Stephanie is my pastry chef de partie. She has a great attitude, perfect for Soho House. She never says no, she’s always happy, she’s a great personality in the kitchen and I can’t fault her.
Soho House New York nominated by Wes Whitsell Ardean has been a rock star on the line: he has a great attitude to match his great skills in the kitchen.
Pizza East Shoreditch nominated by Brian McGowan Oleg is a chef de partie. The shy, timid pussy cat who joined us three years ago is now a lion in the kitchen. Oleg, a soon-to-be dad, is an essential part of the PES kitchen team. Top man.
Dirty Burger & Chicken Shop nominated by Bogdan (Maja) Majwald Iñaki has been promoted to number two chef at Dirty Burger and Chicken Shop in Whitechapel. He’s a great worker and will do well with us in the future.
Soho House Toronto nominated by Daniel Mezzolo Ernesto is our breakfast chef. His consistency with our dishes is always impeccable. He gives more than 100 per cent at work and is always willing to help the team.
Pizza East Portobello nominated by Matt Luscombe We recently promoted Mattia to chef de partie because his attitude, thirst for knowledge and permanent grin are a great asset to us at Portobello.
Soho House West Hollywood nominated by Stacy Bowers Holden is a pastry chef and his passion for baking has received rave reviews from members and staff. His chocolate custard with devil’s food cake, and ice cream is becoming the new house favourite. See page 22 for the recipe.
Electric Diner nominated by Gilbert Holmes One of the Electric originals! Nelson is a senior chef de partie and was lucky enough to join the team in Chicago. He is one of our most valued assets. Hardworking, always happy and definitely a cool cat!
Electric Diner nominated by Gilbert Holmes AKA Muscles! Rafal is a junior sous and joined the team when we relaunched. He has an amazing ability to better himself in everything he does. Very reliable and full of energy. A bright future awaits him.
High Road House nominated by Mathias Oberg Domenico would be a great addition to any team. He has amazing spirit, and is a really passionate chef with a great skills set. Plus he is always up for a joke.
Soho Beach House Miami nominated by Sergio Sigala Our rising star is Danny Lacera, our pizzaiolo. Not only has learned a lot about pizzas, but he is able to manage busy nights. His pizzas always look great and they taste wonderful.
JOIN US! Soho House is recruiting chefs. Email firstname.lastname@example.org or visit www.cookhouse.com
WE'RE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR FRESH FACES
Soho House Group is always on the look out for new talent. If you want a great career in food then get in touch. We have restaurants, hotels and clubs in our venues in the UK, Berlin and North America, with more opening soon in Istanbul and London. We offer tailor-made training, excellent support and the chance to travel or possibly even work overseas. Our farm-to-fork food philosophy is all about working with great ingredients, treated simply and with respect â€“ whether we're flipping burgers at Dirty Burger, making pasta in Cecconi's, or wood-roasted pizza at Pizza East.
WE'D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU
For more information about current kitchen vacancies worldwide and how to apply visit our website, www.cookhouse.com, or call +44 (0)20 7074 1449
THE OLD CUBAN CREATED BY AUDREY SAUNDERS A TWIST ON THE CLASSIC MOJITO - ENJOY AGED RUM AND MINT WITH AN EFFERVESCENT FINISH. AVAILABLE IN EVERY HOUSE BETWEEN SEPTEMBER & NOVEMBER. PAIRED WITH ARTICHOKE TORTELLI, BURRATA & ANCHOVIES. TO SEE HOW TO MAKE THIS COCKTAIL GO TO WWW.HOUSETONIC.COM
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