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COOKHOUSE the food magazine from Soho House

ALL THE COLOURS OF THE RAINBOW Superfoods for Summer Tom Aikens and Elena Arzak Where to eat in Miami Issue 17 Summer 2014


LOVE YOUR VEGETABLES

page 22


COOKHOUSE Summer 2014

Welcome to the Summer 2014 issue of Cookhouse. This quarter, we’re all about eating our vegetables, with some fantastic new dishes hitting the menus at Soho House venues worldwide – think ancient grains with avocado and kale, whole roasted cauliflower, freshly podded peas and beans, okra with almonds and aubergine, beetroot with burrata...hungry yet? As a treat, we’re sharing a few new recipes so you can recreate these colourful dishes at home too. We’ve also got a guide to the best places to eat in Miami, a round up of the best recipe websites and apps, as chosen by chefs and staff, and an exclusive interview with über-chef Elena Arzak, from three-Michelin starred Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain. If you’d like to join one of our growing kitchen teams, email cookhouse@sohohouse.com

a taste... 4

14

NEWS

APPY EATERS

From the food world

Our favourite apps

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16

WHAT I KNOW

Berlin’s head chef Andreas Mahl

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18

EAT MIAMI

CUT OUT AND KEEP

The best food in town

Lolly recipes

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20

Tom Aikens on social media

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Websites to whet your appetite

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IN SEASON NOW

What to cook for summer

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SOHO HOUSE EVENTS

GUEST CHEF

Spain’s 3-star Elena Arzak

ONLINE INSPIRATION

COACHELLA

Soho House hits the desert

THE CLASSIC DISH

Cecconi’s lobster spaghetti

CHEF TALK

28

Edible treats for our chefs

34

RISING STARS Kitchen heroes

EAT YOUR GREENS

And yellows, and reds and purples...

you know who you are... Editor: Rebecca Seal Art Etc: Dominic Salmon Publisher: Dan Flower Thanks to: Kate Maxwell, Kate Lauer, Lauren Shaw, Clemency Keeler, Kate Barry, Ronnie Bonetti, Andrea Cavaliere, Dai Williams, Steven Joyce, Sidney Bensimon, Camilla Karlsson Cover image: Sidney Bensimon. Facing page: Steven Joyce

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Slices

nibbles and food news

THE WHITSTABLE OYSTER FESTIVAL Love oysters? Then make sure you’re in Whitstable, Kent, England from 26 July to 1 August 2014 for the annual and much-loved oyster festival, with shellfish-based feasting, live music, cocktails and even a masquerade ball taking place around the pretty and quaint seaside town. The festival has been running for 20 years, but involves rituals that date back as far as Norman times. If you’re a hungry sort then the opening weekend is the best time to be there, since that’s when you’ll find an excellent food market, packed with local producers and their best dishes. whitstableoysterfestival.co.uk

CURRY NIGHTS

To add a bit of spice to your life, try Curry Tuesdays at Shoreditch House. Thanks to the skills of chef Ameya Bhalekar, who is normally based at High Road House, Shoreditch now has a curry menu every Tuesday, with dishes such as Hyderabadi lamb and paneer jalfrezi, with okra and aloo gobi masala. “It was a great experience for me,” says Ameya. “I spent six weeks at Shoreditch house, teaching the chefs there how to cook the curries, doing tastings of different dishes to get everything right. I loved it.” Prices start at £15 for members.

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TASTE TORONTO

Taste festivals have been running in London for 10 years, and now they’ve hit Toronto (via everywhere from Helsinki to Moscow, Dubai and Sydney). The foodie extravaganza will take place from 24–27 July 2014 in Fort York. The idea is simple: restaurants and food and drink companies exhibit and guests swap cash for crowns – tokens that entitle you to try mini versions of restaurant dishes or drinks for much less than you’d normally pay. Celebrity chef demos, tasting sessions and food markets take place at the same time too. tasteoftoronto.com; torontoribfest.com

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UP ON THE ROOF

Shoreditch House roof garden has grown a new a backyard barbecue for members, just in time for summer. There’s plenty to choose from – two meats and a fish option, or a burger, plus shoestring fries and an epic salad bar with vegetables, cheese, eggs, grains, nuts and, if you’re still hungry, protein from the grill too (beef fillet, prawns, chicken, tofu, paneer, tuna). Prices start at £10.

EATING LA

The Los Angeles incarnation of the ever-growing and ever popular Food & Wine Festival is back from 21–24 August 2014, with events in Downtown, Santa Monica, Hollywood and Beverley Hills. Could this be the most glamorous food festival in America, if not the world? Details are scant at the time of writing, keep an eye on the website for updates: lafw.com

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Slices

nibbles and food news

Soho House Istanbul

SOHO HOUSE OPENINGS

The next 12 months will see Soho House spawn three new properties: Soho House Chicago, which opens late this summer, Istanbul, set to be unveiled this winter, and Farmhouse, a House and hotel in the Oxfordshire countryside, is coming next year. Plus, work is beginning on a new club lined up in West London’s former BBC Television Centre. Keep an eye on houseseven.com for progress reports on all new venues.

BURGERS AND CHICKENS

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For the first time, Dirty Burger and Chicken Shop have joined forces, with both menus available at one brand-new venue in Whitechapel, East London (27 Mile End Road, London, E1).

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BOOKS FOR COOKS

HOUSE FESTIVAL

Tickets to House Festival may have sold out, but you can still join the waiting list on houseseven.com. Acts this year include Paloma Faith and Dizzee Rascal, and as ever there will be epic quantities of delicious food and drink to keep you going all day.

OUR DAILY WASTE

If you’re in Boston later this year, pay a visit to the food store Daily Table, due to open in a few months. Owned by the founder of Trader Joe’s, Doug Rauch, the store attempts to deal with the endemic problem of food waste – by cooking and selling goods that are past their sell-by or use-by dates. It aims to turn a profit, but the food it sells will also be lower priced than normal, allowing low-income families to benefit too.

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New York chef Dan Barber managed to get Al Gore to endorse his book, which goes some way to explaining how important it is. It’s a manifesto about how we can change the food system for the better, and an exposé of how the eat-local movement has done good, but not yet enough. (Published by Penguin Press.) Helena Attlee’s beautiful text, The Land Where Lemons Grow, is a must-read – a lyrical telling of the way citrus shaped Italy, as well as a record of her travels as she researched the fruits in the modern day. (Published by Penguin.) The Edible Atlas is such a brilliant idea for a book that food writers all over the world will be kicking themselves for not having it first. This is Mina Holland’s first book, and is a thoroughly researched and beguilingly written guide around the world in 39 cuisines. (Published by Canongate.)

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what I know

CHRIS MAINGARD Where was your first job in food? It was at the Saxon Hotel in Johannesburg, where I went to work after college. Nelson Mandela wrote his book, Long Walk to Freedom, there and Oprah Winfrey stayed regularly too. I even met Mandela once. It’s a small 12-bedroom boutique hotel, a serious place. How long have you worked for Soho House? Roughly four years. I worked at the Electric, before it was refurbished, on a two-year working holiday visa, then Soho House offered to sponsor to me, which meant I could stay longer. I left to work in Ibiza for a while and then when I came back last year, the company kindly offered to sponsor me again. I’ve been working at SKB since last August and as head chef for about six weeks. It’s my first head chef position with the company but I’ve been a head chef elsewhere; I worked as head chef on a private island, Vamizi, part of Mozambique, for two years and then in Zanzibar for another year. When people hear that, they do tend to ask me what I’m doing here in London... What do you love most about being a chef? I like being creative, making new dishes and recipes, and talking with and listening to other chefs. Cooking means sharing and happiness to me; I like to see someone looking happy after they eat something I’ve made for them. Which chef inspires you? Not a chef, but my grandfather. For me, cooking all started with him. He was French-Mauritian and when I was growing up in Durban, from when I was about five years old, my dad and he used to take me to

Head chef, Soho Kitchen & Bar

the market at the weekend and buy loads of vegetables and produce, and then cook for the whole family. I used to help – or I’d help for a while, make a mess and then run off to play. Where do you get your inspiration? When I lived in Africa I travelled along the whole of the east coast, picking up new spices and learning new techniques, which was great for inspiration. It’s a little more tricky to do that kind of thing here, but I try and make time to experience what other chefs do as much as possible. We have chefs from all over the world in the company – everywhere from Honduras to Italy – so it’s always interesting to talk with them. We get sent seasonality charts from support office every month, and they help too – it’s always best to use seasonal ingredients and I try to as much as I can. What kit should everyone have in their kitchen? A sharp knife. I hate going to people’s houses and finding they’ve got really blunt knives. I bought a whet stone for the kitchen here and I try and help the others sharpen their knives properly. You get home in the evening and there’s nothing but stale bread in the house. What do you make? Bread and butter pudding with chocolate. I always have milk, custard powder and chocolate at home. I have a sweet tooth that comes and goes in phases – sometimes I eat chocolate every day, and then I won’t eat it for weeks. What ingredient is always in your fridge or cupboard? I grew up with a Zulu nanny, and Zulu

cooking tends to involve starches with a little bit of fish or meat and a lot of sauce. Ninety-nine times out of a hundred, the sauce will made with chillies. In London, it’s hard to get the really spicy chillies that we have in Africa, especially not fresh ones – dried chillies are easier to find. I have chilli on quite a lot of things, especially eggs. I make my own chilli paste with onion and garlic, blitzed together. That is one thing that is absolutely always in my fridge. What’s your favourite ingredient? You can’t live without salt, and now you can get so many incredible different salts. We make two salts every week at SKB; a chicken salt with sugar, garlic powder and espelette pepper, and a steak salt with dried shallot, garlic powder, dried parsley and black pepper. They’re really good. Where’s your favourite place to eat in London? I really had a good time in Sushisamba recently, which is Japanese and Brazilian restaurant. They looked after us really, really well. It was wicked actually. We had champagne and amazing food, and the setting and the views, from near the top of the Heron Tower in the City, is incredible. (sushisamba.com) If you could be anywhere in the world, eating anything, right now, where would you be? I’d be in Durban, eating crayfish, hot and just off the barbecue with a little bit of garlic butter. I grew up on the coast and spent a lot of time in the sea, and I used to dive for crayfish. It’s pretty easy to catch them once you know where to find them. It’s finding them, hiding in the rocks, that’s the hard bit n

SOUND GOOD? Want to join one of our kitchen teams in London, Somerset, Berlin, New York, LA, Miami or Toronto? Email cookhouse@sohohouse.com or check out our website www.cookhouse.com to find out about vacancies and how to apply.

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“Cooking means sharing and happiness to me”

Photograph by Dai Williams

THE SOHO KITCHEN & BAR TEAM MACIEK GURDA JUNIOR SOUS CHEF Favourite place to eat in London? The last time I went to Restaurant Michael Nadra I had scallops and they were absolutely perfect. It’s French – very few places in London actually serve British food. restaurant-michaelnadra.co.uk

VICTOR ROSALES PREP CHEF Favourite place to eat in London? I don’t get the chance to go that often, but I like the Albion in Shoreditch, the food is very good and really tasty, and it’s always well presented. www.albioncaff.co.uk

ALFONSO CICALESE CHEF DE PARTIE Favourite place to eat in London? I’m from Napoli and I think that Franco Manca do some of the best pizzas in London. Not perfect – of course! – but really good. I have a special calzone, with egg, salami and mozzarella. www.francomanca.co.uk


EAT MIAMI

From Asian, to Mexican, to down-home Southern, multi-culti Miami excels at continent-crossing cuisine. Jennifer Wood gives us her pick of the best restaurants, and Soho Beach House staff add their own favourites


the guide H D J F SOHO BEACH HOUSE

G I B E

C K B YARDBIRD There are so many international influences in evidence in Miami, it’s easy to forget that the city is part of the American South, with all its rich culinary traditions. At least until you step foot into Yardbird, the always-buzzing, self-described “house of worship to farm-fresh ingredients, classic Southern cooking, culture, and hospitality.” Translation: Order the fried chicken, which takes a full 27 hours to prepare. 1600 Lenox Avenue, Miami Beach, +1 305 538-5220 runchickenrun.com

C AREA 31 The view at Area 31 – from the 16th floor of downtown’s EPIC Hotel – would be worth the price of dinner alone. But chef Wolfgang Birk (smartly) takes special care to ensure that every locally sourced, seafood-focused dish that comes out of his kitchen (think grouper ceviche with green papaya and tarragon) is as breathtaking as the Magic City views. 270 Biscayne Boulevard Way, Miami, +1 305 424 5234 area31restaurant.com

D MICHAEL MINA 74 The iconic Fontainebleau hotel on the oceanfront at Miami Beach, in the heart of Millionaire’s Row, is the backdrop for Michael Mina 74, chef Michael Mina’s second Miami restaurant. Though he hasn’t skimped on the luxe eats that anchor his menu — like the caviar service that’s part of the raw bar — the real fun comes with his upscale twists on late-night eats such as lobster corn dogs, Cuban foie gras sandwiches, and beignets made with Macallan 18. 4441 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, +1 305 538 2000 fontainebleau.com/web/dining/michael_mina_74

E HUAHUA’S TAQUERIA Whether it’s a post-beach snack or a late-night bite, tacos are the perfect anytime food. And Huahua’s Taqueria cooks up nearly a dozen varieties, from the expected (i.e. grilled steak) to only-in-South Beach specialties like chilli-rubbed shrimp with jicama, lime, cilantro, cabbage, and spicy mayo. 1211 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, +1 305 534 8226 huahuastaco.com

F BOCCE BAR We know what you’re wondering about Bocce Bar: is there a bocce court? The answer is yes. There’s also a fabulous menu of rustic Italian fare that includes small plates like lamb and goat’s cheese meatballs and fresh pastas such as the spaghetti with Key West pink shrimp. Then there are the cocktails, made with farm-fresh ingredients – try the signature Bocce Ball with Amaretto, mandarin vodka, orange, almond and soda. 3252 Northeast 1st Avenue, Miami, +1 786 245 6211 bocce-bar.com

G PUBBELLY Asian or pub food? Pubbelly is what happens when you wish for both. Since opening its doors in 2010, the Asian-influenced gastropub has helped to spearhead a foodie revolution in Miami Beach’s Sunset Harbour. The menu includes dumplings, noodles, rice and shareable dishes like Korean-style sweetbreads and pork belly with kabocha squash and butterscotch miso. 1418 20th Street, Miami Beach, +1 305 532 7555 pubbelly.com

SOHO BEACH HOUSE STAFF PICKS H MANDOLIN For rustic and authentic food from the Greek and Turkish shores of the Aegean Sea.

J GIGI This is a Midtown favourite, with great noodles, pork buns and the best Brussels sprouts.

I JUVIA Views of South Beach and Asian-Peruvian fusion.

K TAP TAP A Haitian restaurant on Miami Beach. The inside is divided into several spaces, with a variety of rooms to dine in. Walls are covered with brightly

4312 Northeast 2nd Ave, Miami, +1 305 749 9140 mandolinmiami.com

111 Lincoln Rd, Miami Beach, +1 305 763 8272 juviamiami.com

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3470 North Miami Ave, Miami giginow.com

painted murals depicting Haitian culture. And then, of course, there’s the food and drink: conch Creole, stewed goat, whole fish in lime sauce, spinach in coconut sauce, fried okra, perfect Mojitos, soursop juice... 819 5th Street, Miami Beach, +1 305 672 2898 taptapmiamibeach.com

Thanks to Stephanie Levi, Pierre Dourneau, Jordana Mesner and Bill Binder

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Photograph by David Griffen

chef talk

PICTURE THIS Michelin-starred chef Tom Aikens talks chefs, snaps and the pros and cons of social media

S

ocial media has moved the goalposts for the restaurant industry, and chefs and restaurateurs are embracing the change. The explosion of sites like Twitter over the past five years has opened up the workings of restaurants and chefs in an unprecedented way. An online presence can be used to market a new menu or dish, but also to bring some personality to a chef – where they eat out, or what they like to cook at home. For chefs – notoriously bad communicators – it’s as much about expressing themselves as it is about promoting the business. If you’re not a great writer, you can just upload a good picture with a caption and reach thousands of people in an instant.

The biggest difference I see between the old guard and the young chefs coming through my kitchens is their use of social media. The older guys are using these websites too – they have to – but it comes as second nature to the younger ones. They’ve all got their own Instagram, Twitter, Facebook and so on, and are savvy about using them as marketing tools. Some chefs don’t like their juniors taking photos in the kitchen but I don’t mind – it shows they are proud of where they are working. This new means of communication has undoubtedly been a positive thing for the industry but there have to be boundaries in place. There have certainly been lines crossed in the past, between food bloggers and chefs. I just think there needs to be mutual respect

on both sides: chefs have to to realise that food bloggers have a vast reach (especially when they hashtag a chef ’s name in a review), and bloggers should have respect for the craft that goes into the dishes. When I eat out, I make sure any picture I take does justice to the food and the chef before I upload it. I think it’s a shame when you’ve laboured for many hours, then you see a picture of your dish on a blog and it looks horrific! We all know the limitations of using a mobile phone camera in the evening with a flash on – just don’t bother. Here’s my idea: eat at lunchtime and take a nice picture n @tomaikens. Tom Aikens’ recipes can be found on greatbritishchefs.com

“For chefs – notoriously bad communicators – it’s as much about expressing themselves as it is about promoting the business” 12 COOKHOUSE summer 2014 www.sohohouse.com


tech talk

ONLINE EATING INSPIRATION A roundup of our favourite foodie websites and blogs The Kitchn

A ridiculously informative site run by a team that is very good at responding to readers’ feedback. It’s full of how-to articles, questions answered and funny foodie essays. thekitchn.com

Food52

A wide-ranging food and recipe site, plus an online shop selling lots of desirable kitchen goodies (US delivery only). food52.com

Modern Farmer

As well as offering a window onto what modern farming is like worldwide and encouraging us to re-engage with where our food comes from, this site is also

clever and funny, covering everything from cats who herd sheep to how to build fences and whether carrots could be made into carbon fibre. modernfarmer.com

Honey & Jam

A lushly photographed blog from a young baker in Appalachia. honeyandjam.com

Green Kitchen Stories

A vegetarian food blog written and shot by the couple who created the Green Kitchen app (see p15). greenkitchenstories.com

Foodspotting

Arranged using maps, this site is designed to help you find particular dishes or

share your own photographs of food. Handy if you’re craving something made in a particular way, or if you want to know what the most popular dinner in a particular town is. foodspotting.com

Sprouted Kitchen

This blog is on a mission to show that wholefoods can be gorgeous and delicious, as well as healthy. sproutedkitchen.com

Bon Appétit

The online version of the popular magazine, this site has so many recipes on it you’d never work your way through the lot. Videos from the Bon Appétit test kitchen are fun and informative. bonappetit.com

LEARN WITH US

All photos thanks to Food52.com

Soho House is always looking for new talent. Join one of our kitchen teams in Europe or the United States. Find out more by emailing cookhouse@sohohouse.com or check out our website, www.cookhouse.com, to find out about vacancies and how to apply.

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APPY EATERS

Whether you want to know where the best Szechuan food is in your neighbourhood or how to fillet a fish, you can bet that there’s an app for that. We asked our chefs which apps and sites they use and love, and included a few of our favourites too B URBANSPOON is a nice free app for finding off-the-beaten-track places to eat and drink. It brings online reviews together so that you can get an idea of a place before trying it out. (Chosen by Brian McGowan,

E WILD EDIBLES is an app that teaches you which forageable foods are safe to eat and lets you know about the ones to stay away from. It includes plenty of photos, detailed descriptions and instructions on how to prepare what you’ve picked.

Pizza East Shoreditch)

(Chosen by Kate Barry)

C THE WHOLE PANTRY has great photography and is packed with healthy recipes.

F HARVEST tells you how to choose and store your produce to get the best quality as well as pointing out which fruit and vegetables might have been covered in pesticides and when it might be best to buy organic.

(Chosen by Tim Fuller, Shoreditch House)

D SEAFOOD WATCH from the Monterey Bay Aquarium helps you figure out which fish are OK to cook, and which are endangered and should be avoided. It lets you search and share the locations of restaurants and markets that sell sustainable seafood. (Chosen by Kate Barry, Cookhouse America)

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H Nigella Lawson has two apps: the free NIGELLISSIMA, which has 13 recipes and info about Nigella’s love of Italy; and NIGELLA QUICK COLLECTION, with 100 recipes of six steps or fewer. (Chosen by Martin Kuczmarski, support office)

I Chef Yotam OTTOLENGHI’s app contains some recipes from his books as well as exclusive new ones, plus behind-thescenes material from his restaurant kitchens. (Chosen by Martin Kuczmarski, support office)

G YUMMLY brings together recipes from all over the internet and makes them searchable and saveable. You can search by ingredient or by dish.

J GREEN KITCHEN is for vegetarians, or anyone who wants to eat less meat, and is full of beautifully photographed, creative vegetarian dishes. There’s also Healthy Desserts – so that those with a sweet tooth can indulge their cravings and feel saintly at the same time.

(Chosen by Dylan Murray, support office)

(Chosen by Cookhouse)

(Chosen by Kate Barry)

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apps for foodies

K Choose from JAMIE OLIVER’S 15-Minute Meals, Jamie Oliver’s 20-Minute Meals or Jamie’s Recipes. As well as his easygoing recipes and plenty of nutritional information, these apps contain videos on particular cooking skills, such as how to use a knife properly . (chosen by Dylan Murray, support office)

L PAPRIKA RECIPE MANAGER is a clever multiplatform app that allows you to save recipes from anywhere you like direct to your phone, computer, tablet or Kindle. You can annotate them, scale them up or down to the serving size you want, share them with other users and create shoppings lists. M HOW TO COOK EVERYTHING houses 2,000 recipes and 400 how-to guides by Mark Bittman, the New York Times food writer. Easy to use and encyclopaedic.

Above: Green Kitchen, Below: Ottolenghi, Cookboth and Nigelissima apps.

N CAN I EAT IT? is a barcode-scanner app that’s perfect if you have a food allergy or sensitivity or if you’re trying to eat healthily or lose weight. The latest version also lists drinks. O TEACH ME SUSHI does exactly what it says on tin: if you’ve never tried making your own sushi before, this app will get you started with the basics. P COOKBOOTH is all about creating your own photo-recipes. Whether you shoot with a phone or a camera, you can create step-by-step guides for your own dishes, or learn techniques from other chefs and foodies using the app.

“There’s an app for that…”

WHAT'S IN YOUR FUTURE?

Join one of Soho House's kitchen teams for great training. Email cookhouse@sohohouse.com www.cookhouse.com

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Lobster spaghetti has been a classic dish on the menu ever since Soho House took over Cecconi’s Mayfair in 2005. Andrea Cavaliere, now executive chef, North America, for the Soho House group, helped open the restaurant and devised the recipe

“People often say it’s the best lobster spaghetti they’ve ever had”

Photography by Dai Williams

WORTH SHELLING OUT FOR


the dish LOBSTER SPAGHETTI

serves 4

2 live Maine lobsters 1 Fresno chili (or sweet chilli if unavailable), finely diced 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced 300g/10.5 oz heirloom cherry tomatoes, quartered 30ml/1 fl oz extra-virgin olive oil 200ml/7 fl oz lobster bisque (see below) 100ml/3.25 fl oz tomato sauce 350g/12 oz spaghetti 16 basil leaves salt and pepper (to taste) for the bisque: heads and shells from the lobsters 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion diced into 2cm /0.5 inch pieces 1 stick celery diced into 2cm /0.5 inch pieces 2 carrots diced into 2cm /0.5 inch pieces 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 4 tablespoons cognac 4 tablespoons tomato paste generous pinch of saffron threads court bouillon from poaching the lobsters Stun the lobsters to unconsciousness by placing them in the freezer for 30 minutes. When they are unresponsive, remove and place them on a board. Using a metal skewer, push the point down firmly and quickly through the cross marks on the centre of the lobsters’ backs, where the head and body meet. Wash then break down the lobsters: separate the heads from the claws and tails, reserving the heads for the bisque. Poach the lobster meat in enough court bouillon (water, with a little salt and lemon juice: for every 1 gallon/4.5 litres you need juice from a quarter of a lemon and 8g/0.25 oz salt) to cover, and simmer for six minutes. Strain, reserving the poaching liquid. Carefully remove the meat from the shells, keeping the claw meat as intact as possible, and reserve. Discard the thread-like intestines. Make the bisque: preheat the oven to 200ºC/390ºF. Place the shells and heads on a tray with some olive oil and roast for about 15-20 minutes until they turn golden brown on the inside and nice and red on the outside. Meanwhile, sauté the diced onion, celery and carrots in the extra-virgin olive oil for six minutes. Next, add the garlic and the roasted shells and heads and cook for two minutes, then add the cognac, let it bubble for a couple of minutes and add the tomato paste. Finally, add the saffron to the pan and immediately cover the contents with the court bouillon from poaching the lobster meat, and top up with a little water, as necessary. Simmer for one hour, allowing the bisque to reduce. Strain the contents of the pan through a fine sieve, pressing with the back of a spoon to get out all the flavour. Set aside. (Any leftovers can be frozen.) Sauté the chilli, garlic and cherry tomatoes in extra-virgin olive oil. Add the lobster meat to the pan. Sauté briefly, then add 200ml/7 fl oz of the strained bisque. Adjust the thickness of the bisque with tomato sauce, as needed. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Meanwhile, in heavily salted, boiling water cook the spaghetti until al dente. Add the al dente spaghetti to the lobster pan and cook for one minute longer. Add the basil to the lobster sauce and toss to emulsify. It should coat the spaghetti nicely; add a little more extra-virgin olive oil if necessary. Using tongs, plate up the spaghetti first, then top with the remaining sauce, making sure to place the claw meat on top.

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Andrea says: “People often say it’s the best lobster spaghetti they’ve ever had. The base is what really ramps up the flavour – we prepare a stock with roasted lobster shells, saffron and cognac, which makes a real difference.” The next step is to create an emulsion. “The fat, garlic and chilli come together with the base, making a delicious sauce. Finally, we cook the pasta for the last minute or so in the sauce, so some of the starch from the pasta thickens it a little more.” Andrea’s top tip? “The pasta must be thick spaghetti and the lobsters must be fresh and alive. In America we use Maine lobsters, which are sweet and beautiful, and in Europe we use the best seasonal, local lobsters that we can find.”

DID YOU KNOW? Lobster wasn’t always posh or pricy. It only became fashionable in the 18th century, because prior to that point lobsters were so abundant that the upper classes looked down on them as food of the poor – it was so easy to catch them that fishermen didn’t even need pots. In the early years of modern America lobster was considered a trashy dish, only fit for canning, cat food or using to fill sandwiches! Even during the Second World War, lobster was preserved and used to feed soldiers on the front.

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out......... cut it

Recipes for you to cut and keep, from our chef friends around the world

ICE KITCHEN

The Ice Kitchen is a brilliant street-food truck serving gourmet ice lollies, run by nephew-and-aunt team Cesar and Nadia Roden. It started life in New York, then transferred to London, and now the pair have written a book together, so wherever you are in the world, you can enjoy their summery creations.

ICE KITCHEN BLUEBERRY AND YOGHURT LOLLIES

makes 8-10

Now that blueberries are abundant, their popularity has soared. This is great because the health benefits and flavour are utterly delightful, especially when teamed with their old friend, yoghurt. 300g/10.5 oz blueberries 75ml/2.5 fl oz plus 2 tablespoons water 65g/0.3 cup granulated sugar 500g/1 lb Greek yoghurt 8 tablespoons runny honey 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice Put the berries, sugar and 75ml/0.3 cup water in a saucepan and simmer over a low heat for 3-5 minutes until the berries burst. Remove from the heat to cool.

Photo by Adam Slama

Mix together the yoghurt, honey, lemon juice and the 2 tablespoons water in a bowl. Spoon alternate layers of the yoghurt and blueberry mixtures into each ice-lolly mould, leaving 5mm at the top to allow the mixture to expand when it freezes. Insert the lolly sticks and freeze.

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Extracted from ICE KITCHEN – 50 LOLLY RECIPES – SENSATIONS ON A STICK, by Cesar and Nadia Roden, published by Quadrille

summer 2014

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Photo by Brian Leatart

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COOLHAUS Coolhaus started life in 2008 as one ice-cream van, selling architecturally-inspired ice creams in Los Angeles. Today, co-founders Natasha Case and Freya Estreller have 11 vans, their ice creams are distributed nationally, and they have published a book. They also work with Soho House, throwing sweet, summery events.

COOLHAUS’ SOUTHERN BELLE ICE CREAM For the plain custard base (makes about 1.7 litres/1.5 quarts) Use the freshest eggs available for best results. If possible, refrigerate the base for a full 24 hours – the longer, the better. We like to chill our bases in plastic or stainless-steel pitchers with airtight lids for easy pouring into the ice cream maker after chilling. 500 ml/2 cups whole milk 500ml/2 cups double/heavy cream 250g/1.25 cups granulated sugar 8 large egg yolks In a 4.5 litre/4-quart saucepan, combine the milk, cream and half the sugar. Set over high heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture comes to a boil – about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the yolks and remaining sugar until smooth, heavy and pale yellow – about 30 seconds. When the cream mixture just comes to a boil, whisk, remove from the heat, and, in a slow stream, pour half of it over the yolk-sugar mixture, whisking constantly until blended. Return the pan to the stove top over a low heat. Whisking constantly, stream the yolk-cream mixture back into the pan. With a wooden spoon, continue stirring until the mixture registers 73ºC/165ºF to 82ºC/180ºF on an instant-read thermometer – about 2 minutes. Do not heat above 82ºC/180ºF, or the eggs in the base will scramble. The mixture should be slightly thickened and coat the back of a spoon, with steam rising, but not boiling. (If you blow on the back of the spoon and the mixture ripples, you’ve got the right consistency.) Pour the base into a clean, airtight container and refrigerate for 12-24 hours before using. Use the base within 3-5 days.

For the ice cream Think boozy peach cobbler, with syrupy-sweet peaches and pecans that highlight the Maker’s Mark bourbon. 2 tablespoons butter, plus more for the pan 6 tablespoons packed light brown sugar 1 (400g/8.5-ounce) can peaches, drained, juice reserved 1 cup/100g pecan pieces pinch kosher salt 1 quantity custard base (above) 60ml/0.25 cup Maker’s Mark bourbon

Preheat the oven to 160ºC/325ºF. Butter a baking sheet. In a large frying pan or skillet, melt the butter and 4 tablespoons of the sugar together. Cook over high heat until mixture becomes a thick, melted caramel – about 8-10 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the reserved peach juice, whisking until smooth. Bring to a boil and cook for 1-2 minutes to reduce slightly, then add peaches and cook until well caramelised – about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, lift out the peaches and transfer to a bowl. Discard any remaining mixture in the pan. Refrigerate. In a small saucepan, bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add the pecans and boil for 5 minutes; they will look waxy. Drain and transfer to a bowl. With a rubber spatula, toss the nuts with the salt and the remaining 2 tablespoons of brown sugar, until well coated. Spread the pecans in a single layer on a prepared baking sheet and toast in the oven, stirring once, until the nuts are dry and sugar-encrusted – about 10 minutes. Transfer the pecans to a bowl and allow to cool slightly. Refrigerate until completely cool, then chop into small pieces. Process the custard base in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Add bourbon during the last 2 minutes of churning. Transfer to a bowl and fold in the peaches and pecans. Scrape into an airtight storage container. Freeze for a minimum of 2 hours before serving. Extracted from COOLHAUS by Natasha Case and Freya Estreller. Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

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summer 2014

COOKHOUSE 19


“Whatever you are going to cook, cook like you are the guest in the dining room�

Elena Arzak at Ametsa in London


guest chef interview

BASQUE IN GLORY Elena Arzak, head chef, Arzak

lena Arzak is an acclaimed chef from San Sebastian, in the Basque region of northern Spain. Her family restaurant, Arzak, has been open for more than 100 years and she now runs it as joint head chef with her father, chef Juan Mari Arzak. It is currently rated as the eighth best restaurant in the world by Restaurant magazine and holds three Michelin stars; in 2012 Elena was ranked best female chef in the world. Recently the Arzaks have diversified into consultancy, and help a select few restaurants through Arzak Instruction, one of which is Ametsa in London. Cookhouse caught up with Elena Arzak on a recent visit to Ametsa.

Arzak Instruction is a group of five: my father and me and three other chefs. For a long time, people asked my father and me to do consulting, but it was always very difficult for us to be away from Arzak. With five of us now we can actually do it. The menu is designed by us along with the team working in Ametsa, and it’s different from our menu in San Sebastian, because you cannot recreate a restaurant, that’s impossible.

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The Basque culture is matriarchal. My father’s mother was a chef, as was my greatgrandmother. When my father was a child he was the only male in the restaurant, apart from the sommelier. Today 80% of our chefs are women. I have two children, Nora and Mateo, and in the year Nora was born, five more children were born among the Arzak staff, which wasn’t a problem; we managed it well. But I know it’s not the same for everyone and I wish it was. If you talk to other women working as chefs elsewhere, they will say it’s difficult. It wasn’t easy for me, because when you work hard nothing is easy. But my children grew up seeing I am happy and they understand. When I was 10 or 11, I liked to make soufflés in the microwave. My technique wasn’t good enough though, and they used to deflate very quickly. But my family saw that this was an important thing for me to do, and made sure they sat down quickly when a soufflé was coming! In the summer holidays my sister and I used to help in the restaurant for a couple of hours a day. I was so very happy there and always wanted to stay longer, but we

weren’t allowed. I started by cleaning squid, julienning oranges and picking herbs, and then little by little I began to make things for the restaurant. I always asked, “Please, let me cook for the dining room!” And the chefs would reply, “Elena, this takes time.” By 15 I was able to help, but by that point I knew how much I needed to learn. I finished school at 18 and went to Lucerne to a hotel and cooking school, then spent the next six years abroad, cooking in London, France and Italy. In 1995, I came back to Arzak full time. My father once said to me, “Elena, whatever you cook, be humble.” His mother told him, “Whatever you are going to cook, cook like you are the guest in the dining room. Cook what you would like to receive”. A good restaurant is one that makes the least mistakes. Mistakes do happen, of course. Once, I was in France on a pastry section and I got confused. I made an apple tart and suddenly the pastry chef asked why the tart had no shine? I had used salt instead of sugar! Chefs are human, it’s only if these things happen every day that you have a problem.

In the beginning, it took time to settle. We needed to remedy some mistakes; we listened to our guests and the critics, and we are always trying to do better. We’ve had good reviews and some not so good, but we’ve listened to them and we’ve learned. We take criticism positively. We’ve had a lot of help from other chefs, who found out we were coming to the UK and offered us anything we needed – Heston Blumenthal, Jose Pizarro, Marcus Wareing, Angela Hartnett, Clare Smyth, Raymond Blanc, Jason Atherton and the teams at Le Gavroche and the Waterside Inn among many others. We’re very happy. We like what we’re doing here. The people of San Sebastian like London very much; a lot of Basques come here, just as a lot of British people come to visit us in Spain. In London, you have tradition that is expressed through architecture and food, and then you have modernity, and we like this mixture of old and new in San Sebastian as well. But in London there is also a mixture of cultures, which we really don’t have, and for us this is fascinating. Elena Arzak is is part of the Ametsa with Arzak Instruction team at The Halkin by COMO in London’s Belgravia, comohotels.com/thehalkin/dining/ametsa; arzak.es

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COOKHOUSE 21


EAT THE RAINBOW What better way to celebrate the arrival of summer than by eating piles of glorious, multi-coloured fruits and vegetables, made even more healthy with the addition of seeds, grains and other goodies? Soho House’s seasonal menus are now packed with even more vegetable and vegetarian dishes, which are wholesome without losing focus on flavour. Here’s just a taste of what’s on offer, with recipes to try at home as well very January, Soho House’s directors get together to plan how they’re going to take everything from food to furnishings to the next level. This year, the discussion centred around vegetables, says Andrea Cavaliere, Soho House’s executive chef, North America.

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“We decided to add lots of healthy options to the menus, because we noticed that for some reason we had slightly gone in the opposite direction – probably partly because of opening the Diners. I live in Los Angeles, and for me that kind of food is only appealing if I’ve got a hangover, in which case obviously it’s life-saving! We know our guests and members use our spaces more than once a week, sometimes more than once a day, and we felt like we needed to do this for them, because they wanted to have the chance to eat more healthily.” Andrea keeps a close eye on what guests want. “Superfoods are a really big deal these days, especially in places like LA and Miami, but I don’t see this as

just a trend, I think it’s here to stay. I get the food sales reports every Monday, and since we introduced these dishes, it’s fascinating to see that the grain and vegetable bowl is a best-seller.” The plan is to introduce a vegetable section on every menu – not just sides, but completely vegetarian or vegan main courses. “We’ve always had plenty of vegetables on offer,” says Andrea. “But this allows the chefs to get even more creative with them, because they invest in having ideas that don’t involve meat or fish. One of the dishes I love the most is our new whole roasted cauliflower, with salsa verde and aioli, which you can have as a main course or to share.” Desserts will be next to get the rainbow treatment. “As well as fruits, there are so many ingredients that you can use as substitutes, which are better for us, or more suitable for people with sensitivities or allergies, like coconut sugar, or the many, many options for replacing milk.”

“Superfoods are a really big deal these days”


SALT-BAKED BEETS AND BURRATA

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serves 2 as a main dish or 4 to share as a side 480g/1 lb kosher salt 4 medium beets, trimmed 2 whole avocados 90g/3 oz burrata 6 basil leaves 60ml/2 fl oz sherry vinaigrette (recipe below) salt and freshly ground black pepper extra-virgin olive oil, to serve 60g/2 oz toasted pistachios Preheat the oven to 175ºC/350ºF. Put a half cm/quarter-inch layer of the salt in the bottom of a small baking dish. Place the beets on top of the salt, making sure they are not touching each other. Cover the beets with the remaining salt and bake until fork-tender – about 1 hour 15 minutes. Remove the beets from the salt and allow to cool to room temperature. Remove the skins with a paper towel and dice into 3cm/1 inch cubes.

Halve the avocados and take out the stones/pits. Use a spoon to remove the flesh. Tear the burrata open. Toss the beets and avocado – being careful not to mash the avocado – with the basil leaves and the vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper to taste and pile the vegetables over the burrata. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle over the pistachios.

Sherry vinaigrette 2 tablespoons shallot, brunoise (chopped very finely), rinsed in ice water and drained 4 teaspoons sherry vinegar 1 scant teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice salt, to taste 0.25 teaspoon honey 4 teaspoons grape seed oil 2.25 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil Mix together the shallots, sherry, lemon, salt and honey. Let stand for 15 minutes. Whisk the oils together by hand then add to the other ingredients. As it’s a “broken” vinaigrette (rather than an emulsified one), mix before every use.

HERITAGE CARROTS, CORBEZZOLO HONEY, CAPERS

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serves 4 20g miniature capers (dried if possible) 200g baby carrots 300g mixed heritage baby carrots 2 tablespoons Corbezzolo honey (Sardinian bitter honey) butter 15g/0.5 oz black onion seeds If using wet capers, dry overnight in the oven at 85ºC/185ºF. Steam the carrots for 3 minutes. While still warm, remove the skins with a wet cloth then cool in iced water. Roast the carrots in a very hot frying pan with the honey and the butter. Cook until golden brown. Add seasoning to taste and the black onion seeds. Serve on a large flat plate, sprinkled with the dried capers.

Quinoa Photograph by Sidney Bensimon

Pronounced keen-wah, this isn’t a true grain but is in fact a seed, originally from the Andes. The darker colours tend to be crunchier, the lighter ones fluffier. For a plant, it’s unusually high in the complete proteins found in meat. It’s not always necessary, but to be sure it won’t taste bitter, rinse it in cold water before cooking.

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summer 2014

COOKHOUSE 23


vegetable variety

Vinaigrette 200 ml/0.75 cup aged sherry vinegar 60g/2 oz shallot, brunoise (finely chopped) and sautéed 60g/2 oz ginger, chopped 50 ml/1.75 fl oz lemon juice (fresh) 5g/0.75 teaspoon salt 10g/0.3 oz honey 150 ml/0.75 cup grapeseed oil 150 ml/0.75 cup extra-virgin olive oil Mix the vinegar, shallots, ginger, lemon, salt and honey and leave to stand for 15 minutes. Drizzle the oils in and blend till emulsified.

SUPERFOOD BREAKFAST

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“This is made like porridge,” says Andrea. “But because of all the healthy ingredients, it’s the perfect way to start the day.”

serves 1

Superfood breakfast D

GRAIN BOWL

“This is a best-seller in New York,” says Andrea. “You get the crunch of the popped amaranth, the creamy texture of the avocado, the beautiful vegetables shaved over the top. You can also have this with grilled chicken or fish, or just keep it vegan. It’s even gluten free, because we no longer make it with spelt. It’s like a colourful dose of lovely medicine on a plate!”

serves 2 300g/10 oz cooked mixed grains (forbidden rice, white quinoa, brown rice) 20g/0.75 oz garbanzo beans/chickpeas 20g/0.75 oz English peas, cooked 100g/3 oz avocado, chopped 40g/2.25 oz kale or cavolo nero 100g/3 oz carrots, julienned 60g/2 oz golden and red beets/beetroot, julienned generous pinch fresh mint, chopped sprinkle of golden flax seeds sprinkle of popped amaranth 40ml/1.25 fl oz vinaigrette (see below) Bring the cooked grains to room temperature. Toss them together in two salad bowls, then add half the garbanzo beans/chickpeas and peas to each bowl. Next place the avocado and kale at opposite ends of the bowl, and arrange the other vegetables in between. Sprinkle over the fresh mint and the last two grains. Serve with a ramekin of vinaigrette on the side.

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40g/1.25 oz quinoa 40g/1.25 oz oats 1 tablespoon hemp seeds 1 tablespoon chia seeds 1 tablespoon flax seeds 100-200ml/4-8 fl oz almond milk 1 tablespoon almond butter Toppings: dry coconut chips, raw cocoa nibs, flax seeds, chia seeds, blueberries and goji berries. Over a low heat, cook all the ingredients together (excluding the toppings), until the mixture reaches a porridge-like consistency – add more almond milk if too thick. Remove from the heat and serve generously topped with coconut, cocoa nibs, seeds and berries.

Garbanzos/chickpeas One of the best things about garbanzos is how rich in fibre they are. They also have relatively high levels of protein, meaning they keep you fuller longer. A major plus is how tasty they are too – whether blitzed with garlic and tahini in hummus, sprinkled in a salad or added to a hearty stew.

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CHARRED CAULIFLOWER, SALSA VERDE AND ROAST GARLIC AIOLI

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serves 1 as a hearty main course, or to share between 3-4 as a side 1 cauliflower, whole 1 tablespoon roast garlic aioli (recipe below) 1 tablespoon salsa verde (recipe below) salt and pepper, to taste Remove base and stem of the cauliflower, coring at an angle and being careful not to lose any florets. Steam the whole cauliflower for 12 minutes. Remove from the pan and allow to cool. Char on a very hot grill till evenly blackened. Add aioli to the plate then place the cauliflower stem side-up on top. Spoon over the salsa verde, season, and slice a steak knife straight down through the top of the cauliflower.

Salsa verde 80g/2.75 oz fresh parsley, leaves only 15g/0.5 oz garlic, peeled 50g/1.75 oz capers 1 tablespoon panko breadcrumbs, soaked in white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon sea salt 500ml extra-virgin olive oil

Briefly blitz the ingredients together, to form a loose sauce, or chop the parsley, garlic and capers by hand, then mix with the other ingredients. If blitzing, don’t process until smooth, as it should have a little texture. (This will make more than you need, leftovers keep well in a sealed jar in the fridge for a couple of days; salsa verde is excellent with fish, cold meats, roasted tomatoes and lentils.)

Roast garlic aioli 4 cloves garlic, peeled 20ml/2 scant tablespoons canola oil 20g/0.6 oz egg yolk (one average yolk) 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar 2 teaspoons water 0.5 tsp Dijon mustard salt and pepper, to taste Put the whole garlic in a pan with the oil and roast till golden on the stove. Remove and chop the garlic, set aside to cool. Place the yolk, vinegar, water, and mustard in a blender (or robot coupe) and purée together. When smooth and emulsified, with the motor still running slowly add the chopped garlic and oil from the pan. Taste and add salt as necessary.

Cauliflower Photograph by Sidney Bensimon

If you thought cauliflower was just for draping in cheese sauce and sticking in the oven, think again – not only is it delicious raw, roasted or curried, but it’s also incredibly high in vitamin C, vitamin K (an antiinflammatory) and antioxidants.

Chia seeds More proof that ancient south American peoples knew a thing or two about healthy eating: chia seeds were a popular food for the Aztecs. They don’t really taste of much, and sprinkling them on everything you can think of means you’ll get a good dose of omega 3 fatty acids, which almost all of us need more of in our diets.

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COOKHOUSE 25


SPICED AUBERGINES, OKRA, FLAKED ALMONDS

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serves 4 1 purple aubergine salt 200g/7 oz fresh okra 1 teaspoon garlic oil 10g/0.3 oz chilli, finely chopped 10g/0.3 oz fresh grated ginger 60g/2 oz fine French beans 30ml/1 fl oz soy sauce 2 tablespoon flaked almonds, toasted in a dry pan until golden 1 tablespoon chives, chopped G ASPARAGUS,

FREGOLA, LEMON AIOLI

serves 2 200g/7oz Sardinian medium-sized fregola (a pasta similar to large couscous) 1-2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 small bunches of Wye Valley (or other local) green asparagus butter 10g/0.75 oz preserved lemon skin 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped salt and pepper 30g/1 oz lemon aioli (see below) Place the fregola grains into a large pot and completely cover with salted cold water. Bring to the boil and cook the fregola until al dente – about 7 minutes.

Dice the aubergines and sprinkle with salt. Leave to drain for at least 3 hours. Pat dry with kitchen paper and deep fry at 190ºC/375ºF until golden. In a large flat pan, fry the okra, then add the garlic oil, chilli, ginger, beans and a little salt . Once the garlic is golden brown add the aubergines and sprinkle with the soy sauce. Taste to check the seasoning and serve hot on a large, flat plate, sprinkled with the toasted flaked almonds and the chives.

Once cooked, drain off and place into large trays to cool, then sprinkle all over with extra-virgin olive oil. Blanch the asparagus in salted boiling water for a couple of minutes. Once cooked, cut the spears in half and place them in a hot sauté pan with a little butter, the fregola, the preserved lemon skin, the chopped parsley, a little salt and black pepper. Toss briefly and remove from the heat. Serve with a side of lemon aioli (see below).

Lemon aioli

Soft boil 5 Amalfi lemons (or other un-waxed lemon if unavailable) until completely soft. Once cooked, place them in a blender and purée until completely smooth. Pass through a chinois (very fine cloth sieve) in order to remove any impurities. Weigh the purée and add double the weight of mayonnaise. Taste, then add salt to taste, as well a pinch of garlic powder. (Leftovers will keep, sealed, in the fridge for a few days.)

Amaranth Amaranth is another seed masquerading as a grain and, like quinoa, it’s related to the beetroot and chard family, so it has lots of the health benefits usually found in green vegetables. Although it can be simmered like porridge, the most fun way to eat it is popped, like popcorn.

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vegetable variety I

PANELLE AND SPRING VEGETABLE RAGOUT

serves 4 Spring vegetable ragout 900g/2 lb fava/broad beans in their pods 100g/1 cup peas, shelled 100g/1 cup peas, in pods 4 artichokes extra-virgin olive oil to poach the artichokes, plus 2 tablespoons 2 shallots, chopped 0.5 teaspoon black peppercorns 2 bay leaves 2 tablespoons chopped mint, plus mint sprigs for garnish 2 teaspoons capers 1 clove garlic 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chervil 2 teaspoons kosher salt green onions/spring onions/scallions, finely chopped, to garnish freshly ground black pepper Remove the beans from their pods. Blanch in boiling, salted water for 1 minute. Cool in an ice bath, then peel the tough outer skin from each bean. Discard the skins and set the peeled beans aside. Blanch the peas in the same water for about 1 minute then cool in an ice bath. Cut the artichokes into four. Poach the artichoke in extra-virgin olive oil with one of the shallots, the black peppercorns, the bay leaves and the chopped mint, for about 5 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoons of the extra-virgin olive oil in a sauté pan. Add the remaining onion and the capers and sauté until translucent – about 8 minutes.

Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the beans, artichoke and peas and cook until heated through. Right before serving, add the lemon juice, parsley, chervil and salt. Spoon the vegetable ragout over the warm panelle (see below) and garnish with mint sprigs, green onions and freshly ground black pepper.

Panelle 1 litre/4 cups water 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt 125ml/0.5 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking sheet and for frying 250g/0.5 lb garbanzo/chickpea/ gram flour Pour the water, salt and olive oil into a saucepan and gradually whisk in the flour until smooth. Place over a medium heat to thicken but do not allow the mixture to boil. Cook, stirring often and thoroughly, and scraping the bottom and sides of the pan frequently to stop it sticking, using a spatula, until the mixture is stiff and starts to pull away from the sides as you stir it – 15 to 20 minutes. Oil a large baking sheet with a lip and pour the batter onto it. Spread it quickly with a spatula, before it cools and sets, so that it is even – about 1cm/0.3 inch thick. Smooth it flat and leave to cool. When cool, cut into 6cm/2 inch discs with a pasta or cookie cutter. When ready to serve, fry the panelle in extra-virgin olive oil over a medium heat for about 3 minutes, until the undersides are crisp and golden, then flip them over and brown the second side. Drain on paper/kitchen towels. Keep warm.

BAKED EGGS, SPROUTING BROCCOLI, YOGURT

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serves 2 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced ½ an onion sliced olive oil salt 250g/9 oz sprouting broccoli 100g/4 oz baby spinach 4 eggs 4 tablespoons Greek yogurt 1 tablespoon roughly chopped coriander/cilantro 2 lemon wedges Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF. On the hob over a medium heat, soften the garlic and the onion with the olive oil and salt in an oven-proof dish, for about five minutes. Add the broccoli and baby spinach and cook until the spinach has wilted. Crack the eggs onto the broccoli and spinach and pop them into the oven until the eggs are just set – around 8-10 minutes. Season, dollop the yogurt on top, sprinkle with the coriander and serve with lemon wedges.

Photograph by Sidney Bensimon

Kale Gram for gram, kale contains more vitamin C than an orange, as well as calcium and a bunch of phytonutrients. Just remember that your body absorbs these nutrients better with a little fat and a little citrus added – the perfect excuse for a lemon-and-olive-oil dressing, some avocado or even a little grated cheese.

“More vitamin C than an orange” www.cookhouse.com

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COOKHOUSE 27


INTO THE VALLEY

For the second year running, Soho House set up camp at an estate in La Quinta to celebrate the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival. As nearly 100,000 music fans descended on Coachella Valley, Soho Desert House with Bacardi provided the ultimate escape from the crowds riday kicked off with a party hosted by Forward by Elyse Walker and Rosie Huntington-Whitely. Daisy Lowe, Mia Moretti, Myles Hendrik and Ana Calderon took turns on the decks, with Kate Nash joining late night, following her Coachella performance.

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Spotify hosted brunch on Saturday along with A$AP Rocky, who took a break from kicking back on the lawn to play tracks from his new album, Beauty and the Beast, for the crowd. Guests spent the day enjoying the infinity pool, rounds of ping-pong, lawn games and live music from Courtney Barnett and Wye Oak. Jeffrey Paradise from Poolside hit the decks in the afternoon, followed

by Allie Teilz, who was having so much fun that she played for nearly six straight hours, taking guests into full party mode. The night ended with James Blake and his 1-800-Dinosaur party, which attracted fellow Brits Daisy Lowe and Florence Welch. On Sunday, Tom Windish celebrated 10 years of his independent booking agency over brunch, with a mix of invited guests and talent from his roster. Faces round the tables included Katy Perry, Diplo, James Blake, Poolside, Future Islands, Bonobo, Sam Smith and Aluna George. While Disclosure and Arcade Fire wrapped up the festival, those still sporting their custom-made leather Soho Desert House wristbands headed back for a late-night

closing party with an impromptu DJ set by festival performers Flight Facilities. Throughout the many hours of glamorous partying, Soho House’s dedicated bartenders, chefs and front-of-house staff kept guests fed and watered, with delicious cocktails like the Bacardi spiced Piña Colada, Cuba Libres with Mexican cola, Palomas and the Clover Ginger Snap, with Bacardi Oakheart, apple, lemon and ginger. Andrea Cavaliere’s crack team of chefs rustled up everything from paella, lobster rolls and sliders to skirt-steak chumichurri, watermelon, feta and basil salad and herb-crusted mahi mahi with lemon aioli. A huge thank you to the crew who made it all happen n

“Allie Teilz DJed for nearly six hours”

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Coachella

Opposite page: Bacardi on the bar. This page, clockwise from left and above: guests enjoying Desert House hospitality; canapes going out; Bacardi Oakheart; chefs manning the grills. Photos by Michael Bezjian/Getty Images, Phil Sanchez and Tiffany Rose

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COOKHOUSE 29


SAMPHIRE

Samphire (also known as marsh samphire) must be eaten when it’s fresh. The flavour is tangy and salty, because it will only grow in marshy, salty conditions. Wash it well, then blanch it briefly. Serve with anything from eggs to lamb, broad beans or fish.

LEMONS

When buying citrus, look for uniform, shiny fruits, especially if you plan on using the zest – you don’t want to eat skin that has been covered in synthetic or petroleum-based wax (which sometimes contains fungicide), so go for unwaxed options. Don’t worry about nobbly bits – this shows the fruit has been allowed to grow and ripen naturally. As a general rule, heavier-feeling fruits have more flesh and juice, and less pith. If possible, buy organic fruits, which won’t have been sprayed with pesticides.

CHARD

Expose this leafy vegetable to as little heat as possible if you want to make the most of its vitamins and minerals. Chard can be used in place of vine leaves to make Greek-style dolmades, served as a side like spinach, chopped and added to creamy, meaty pasta sauces or to risottos, or treated like an oriental green and flavoured with chilli or ginger.

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PEAS

Of course, you can get frozen peas all year round, but then you miss the satisfying job of popping the pods and pinging pea after pea into a saucepan. Peas have been eaten for millenia, but the first records of of them being eaten fresh rather than dried are only from the past 500 years or so. Pair them with soft mild cheeses or add them to salads like fattoush, with tomatoes, cucumber and crunchy pieces of fried bread.


Photography by Dai Williams

CHERRIES

This fruit works well with lots of other flavours: almond (its slightly poisonous stones/pits contain an almond flavour), coconut, chocolate and cream in particular. Its classic partner is frangipane, but cherries also work well in smoothies with yoghurt (or frozen yoghurt), in trifles and in semifreddos.

STRAWBERRIES

A ripe strawberry is so good that barely anything beats it, but they also partner well with basil, mint, citrus, pecans, almonds, hazelnuts and anything creamy or eggy too.

CHILLI PEPPERS

Recent research suggests the heat in chillies may help kickstart our metabolisms and boost weight loss, as well as potentially taking the sting out of a hangover. The white pith is the hottest part of a chilli, and red chillies are almost always hotter than green; dried chillies are the hottest of the lot.

COURGETTES/ZUCCHINI

Easy to grow, these are available all summer in the US and Europe. Try shaving raw ribbons into salad, fry up as herby fritters, purĂŠe into a dip with walnuts and yoghurt, stuff with rice and pine nuts, griddle on a barbecue or cook with cream and mint to create a fresh-tasting sauce for pasta or fish.

In season now The ingredients that should be finding their way into your cooking

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Soho House chefs’ events

EASTER EGG DECORATING COMPETITION This Easter, Cookhouse challenged Soho House UK sites to decorate and fill chocolate Easter eggs to be donated to Great Ormond Street Hospital for Easter Sunday. Each site received a chocolate egg from Town and Country to fill, decorate and present at Shoreditch House library for judging. The judging panel – group pastry chef Jake Rigby-Wilson, former chef and health and safety manager Dan Spickett and Lauren Shaw and Clemency Keeler from Cookhouse – were on the hunt for creative designs and technical ability.

The team from Cowshed Primrose Hill were awarded third place for their Fabergé-esque egg. In second place, Pizza East Kentish Town impressed the judges with some highly skilled icing work. Electric House took first place with their original and playful chocolate egg and soldiers. Their faultless presentation, complete with salt and pepper shakers filled with Rice Krispies and Coco Pops, put a smile on everyone’s faces. All eggs were safely delivered to Great Ormond Street Hospital in time for Easter Sunday.

The eggs ranged from beautifully ornate to fun and child-friendly, and the judges were impressed by the skills on show.

THE PALMS HOTEL GARDEN Food lovers from Soho Beach House visited Essensia Restaurant at the Palms Hotel for a garden tour and dinner recently. Chef Julie Frans hosts garden tours each week and cooks with freshly picked ingredients in farm-to-table style, as well as sourcing ingredients from local growers like Paradise and Swank farms. The table was set for dinner in the garden overlooking the pool, and the meal included mussels with Sam Adams lager and ceviche with radish, cucumber, papaya and crispy plantains.

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CHEFS' TABLE As a thank you to hard-working Soho House chefs, every month each venue nominates a chef to take part in a chef ’s table dinner. Recently there was a gathering at Pizza East Portobello hosted by head chef Kyle Boyce, who served Aperol Spritzes, tuna tartare with pickled vegetables and pan-fried lemon sole with peas and samphire.

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PASSION FOR FOOD AND WINE Passion for Food and Wine is a training course run regularly across the Houses. The team at Soho Beach House enjoyed an afternoon with chef Sergio Sigala, who shared his own passion with delicious new dishes, including ceviche, tuna tostada and octopus tiradito.

RACHEL KHOO Soho House UK’s assistant general managers were recently treated to an evening with Rachel Khoo after a day of training. The Little Paris Kitchen chef put together four creative courses that echoed the seasons, from ‘spring garden’ to ‘whiteout’.

ONE NIGHT ONLY WITH JASON ATHERTON TRIP TO ITALY One lucky group of Soho House chefs have been treated to dinner at a One Night Only event with chef Jason Atherton at High Road House, part of our ongoing series of guestchef takeovers. Highlights included roasted halibut with turnip and black truffle and wild strawberry sorbet with burnt basil meringue.

Senior sous Junio Andrea Torre, from Shoreditch House, writes: “A few of us from Shoreditch went to Italy to visit producers in the north east. Thanks to Fabio Antoniazzi, the director of supplier La Credenza, we visited some of the best wine producers in Italy, as well as San Daniele del Friuli for cured meats, top asparagus producers and some wonderful cheesemakers too.”

CAFE BOHEME CHEFS' TABLE Café Boheme hosted another Chef ’s Table and welcomed star chefs from across our UK houses and restaurants for an evening of wining and dining. Guests arrived to Kir Royals before Head Chef Lucasz Kus emerged from the kitchen with trays laden with a selection of starters. Delicious French charcuterie, chicken liver paté and pork terrine were followed by boudin noir with pommes mousseline.

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RISING STARS

Celebrating the heroes of our kitchens

ARIEL TABILIN

Soho House nominated by Danny Brooks

Ariel always brightens up the kitchen and makes everyone happy. Recently I asked him to come up with a dish for our small-plates section on the menu. He made a squid, ginger and chilli dish that is an absolute winner. His late-night Asian-inspired staff suppers are becoming legendary.

GIEDRIUS SIMULINIUS

Dirty Burger, Kentish Town nominated by Bogdan (Maja) Majwald

Giedrius is our grill chef, a real team worker, always on time and the best prep chef in Dirty Burger.

LUIS CARLOS VENTURA CADENAS

Dirty Burger, Kentish Town nominated by Bogdan (Maja) Majwald

Luis is a good team worker and works hard. He’s great at learning new recipes and is happy to grow with the company. His staff food is amazing and he keeps excellent control in the kitchen with ordering and service.

KAMIL WAWROWSKI

Soho Kitchen and Bar nominated by Chris Maingard

Kamil has been with the company for three and a half years now, and has just upgraded to sous chef. He is very deserving of the title of rising star.

JAMIE-LEE HURRELL

Soho House Berlin nominated by Andreas Mahl

Not only is Jamie-Lee the only lady in the kitchen, she works fantastically well, is accurate, a good listener and always willing to improve the product. She has worked all the sections except the grill, which she is now busy with and doing extremely well at.

MASSIMILIANO IAQUINOTO Shoreditch House nominated by Michele Nargi

Massimiliano, our junior sous chef, is simply a great guy to have around, super organised and an excellent team member.

MAURIZIO PUMA

Pizza East Portobello nominated by Kyle Boyce

Maurizio Puma is nothing short of a pure legend. He’s one of the most promising chefs I’ve worked with and a complete pleasure to have on my team.

ISRAEL PEINADO

Dirty Burger Vauxhall nominated by Samuel Johnson

A daily ray of sunshine, with exceptional talent, team motivation and leadership. We love him and the customers fancy him, a lot.

BEN RODD

Babington House nominated by Neil Smith

Ben has been with me for a year, holding up the busy pastry section. He’s come a long way with making and baking our Babington bread. Good work Ben!

JOIN US! Soho House is recruiting chefs. Email cookhouse@sohohouse.com or visit www.cookhouse.com

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WE'RE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR FRESH FACES Soho House Group is always on the look out for new talent. If you want a great career in food then get in touch. We have restaurants, hotels and clubs in our venues in the UK, Berlin and North America, with more opening soon in Istanbul, Chicago and London. We offer tailor-made training, excellent support and the chance to travel or possibly even work overseas. Our farm-to-fork food philosophy is all about working with great ingredients, treated simply and with respect – whether we're flipping burgers at Dirty Burger, making pasta in Cecconi's, or wood-roasted pizza at Pizza East.

WE'D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU

For more information about current kitchen vacancies worldwide and how to apply visit our website, www.cookhouse.com, or call +44 (0)20 7074 1449


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Cookhouse Summer 2014