being the food magazine of Soho House
Khoo Dunnit TV chef Rachel Khoo visits Soho House
Top recipes to cut out and keep Soho Houseâ€™s newest openings
COOKHOUSE autumn 2012
The three musketeers! Say hello to Boguslaw “Maja” Majwald, head chef at Dirty Burger, Theo Lewis, head chef at Pizza East Kentish Town, and Sebastian Price, head chef at Chicken Shop (pictured left to right). Together, the three of them run what really is a temple to food: three restaurants in one building in north London - those lucky locals!
Find out more about the new venues on page 12. Photo by Dai Williams.
Welcome to the autumn 2012 issue of Cookhouse, the Soho House food magazine for chefs and people who love to eat. This magazine celebrates the food philoshophy of all the Soho House Group sites worldwide: Soho House London, Soho House New York, Soho House West Hollywood, Soho House Miami, Soho House Berlin and Soho House Toronto; Cecconi’s in West Hollywood, Mayfair and Miami; London’s Pizza Easts in Shoreditch, Portobello and Kentish Town, Litte House, Dean Street Townhouse, Shoreditch House, The Electric, Cafe Boheme, BKB, Hoxton Grill, High Road House, Chicken Shop and Dirty Burger; plus Babington House in Somerset. If you’re interested in joining one of our kitchen teams around the world, email firstname.lastname@example.org We’ve had a makeover! We hope you like our new look. This issue we meet some brilliant chefs: Rachel Khoo from Paris and Stephanie Izard from Chicago as well as Michele Nargi from Shoreditch House. Plus we have recipes from Mark Hix, Atul Kochhar and Mary Sue Milliken; we catch up on the openings of Soho House Toronto, Chicken Shop, Dirty Burger and Pizza East Kentish Town and get all the news from around the Group. Tuck in!
a taste... 4
Catch up on all the latest Soho House news, plus What I Know with chef Michele Nargi
CUT OUT AND KEEP
Four recipes to try from Soho House’s favourite guest chefs
CHEFS' DAY OUT
Cookhouse chefs will go a long way in pursuit of great food and a little fun
PIZZA AND COCKTAILS
Cookhouse visits the four newest kitchens in the Soho House Group
We meet the fantastic chef behind Girl and the Goat in Chicago
Grey Goose designs a perfect cocktail at Pizza East Kentish Town
KIDS GET COOKING
Pizza East Shoreditch hosts a workshop for children from charity Kids Company
KHOO ON CAKES
TV chef Rachel Khoo takes time out to talk to Soho House’s pastry chefs
WHY I LOVE...
Dave Green on his obsession with haggis
you know who you are... Editor: Rebecca Seal Art Etc: Dominic Salmon Publisher: Dan Flower Thanks to: Dylan Murray, Gareth Jones, Julia Taylor-Brown, Phoebe Strawson, Oli Juste, Caroline Boucher, Thomas Lennard, Ronnie Bonetti, Lucy Ede, Shelley Armistead, Matthew Armistead, Martin Kuczmarski, Antonella Bonetti, Dave Green, Andrea Cavaliere, Jake Rigby-Wilson, Lilaj Battista, Jacki Spillane, Pete McAllister, Nicholas Fitzgerald, Tank Loy, Tim Fuller, Michele Ardu, Chris Tomsett, Ashley Lent, Sergio Sigala, German Lucarelli, Marcin Malinski, Alessio Biangini, Leon Lawrence, Dai Williams, Steven Joyce
Photographs by Steven Joyce; Stephen Toner; Creel Films
nibbles and food news
Soho House Group hosted its first Edible Cinema with the movie Pan's Labyrinth at the Electric Cinema back in May. It was such a success that another ran in August at the Aubin Cinema in east London. (Members! Keep a look out on www.houseseven.com for more.) Edible Cinema is the latest enhanced film experience, following on from ideas like scratch-andsniff cinema, and Soho House worked with renowned experience organiser Polly Betton, experimental food designer Andrew Stellitano and Bombay Sapphire mixologist Sam Carter (pictured top left). The movie chosen this time was Spirited Away - a Japanese animated fantasy drama. Guests were given a series of numbered packages containing a variety of food, drink and other sensory aids to be experienced throughout the film - not everything was given at once, nor were they all easy to find! Everything corresponded to events in the film and each package mimicked the action on screen or enhanced the viewing experience. Dishes included a foaming tapioca 'soap' powder, designed to be eaten as main character Sen bathes a filthy river spirit at a bathhouse. Wowsers.
Soaking up the sunshine at this year’s Foodie Festival were chefs from Pizza East Shoreditch and High Road House. It was held in Battersea Park, a great inner-city venue for pop-up food vendors, cooking demos and artisan food suppliers, who showcased foods from around the world. As well as competing in the Ready-Steady-Cook tenderstem (broccoli) challenge, chefs tucked into all sorts of food and drinks including cured meat and cheese selections, plus British artisan ciders and beers. The day also included demos from chefs and cooks including Andy Cook, Levi Roots and Andrew Kojima.
Members of Soho House Group took to Chiswick House gardens this summer to make the most of edible and audible delights of this year’s House Festival. Living up to its reputation as the ultimate summer garden party, it did not disappoint with fantastic performances from Rizzle Kicks, Lana Del Rey and Basement Jaxx, plus sun (for once!), and food and drink. From lobster to mac ‘n’ cheese chefs served up a full range of culinary delights. As well as the usual meat grills, fresh oysters and Pizza East’s meatballs, two new Soho House projects also joined in – Dirty Burger and Chicken Shop. Cocktails were courtesy of Grey Goose vodka.
“From lobster to mac ‘n’ cheese chefs served up a full range of culinary delights”
WEST HOLLYWOOD'S OWN FARMERS' MARKET
Top: Pizza being prepared at House Festival. Above: Joe McCanta from Grey Goose mixes cocktails. Below from left to right: Lobster cooking; Chicken Shop chicken on the rotisserie; delicious cakes
The roof garden of West Hollywood was home to a fabulous farmers’ market (right) when local producers were invited along to show off their best to the club’s members. Guests tried everything from pickles to Malibu honey, and if they weren’t hungry (wait, isn’t everyone always hungry? Or is that just Cookhouse?) then there was gorgeous fashion to browse and even local soaps and candles to buy. Delightful.
Slices RISING STARS
Cookhouse celebrates the unsung heroes of the kitchens Sergio Sigala, executive chef, Soho Beach House Miami, says:
Giuliano Leverone started with us six months ago and since the first day he’s showed great desire to learn and grow. He has lots of enthusiasm, great attitude and potential.
Dave Green, head chef, Dean Street Townhouse, says:
James O’Grady, sous chef at Dean Street, has really grown into the role and is now a solid member of the senior team.
Marcin Malinski, head chef, Cafe Boheme, says:
In other news...
Fame at last!
My senior sous chef, Johan Triplet, is a guy who can deliver everything that’s needed and far more.
Kudos to Cecconi's Miami pastry chef Oscar Bonelli who was given a grilling by NBC Miami for their segment Kitchen Inquisition. Check out the full interview at NBCmiami. com. And congrats to Soho Beach House Miami's head chef Sergio Sigala who was dubbed a top 10 "top chef and a cute dude to know" by website Refinery29.com!
German Lucarelli, head chef, Soho House New York, says:
Since I joined Soho House New York, there are two cooks whose performance is always 110 percent: Jeffrey Mineses and Winston Cunningham.
Alessio Biangini, chef de cuisine, Cecconi's LA says:
You don’t find many guys like Ricardo Cruz Lopez. What’s crazy about Ricardo is that even during the busiest service, tickets flying, he’s always smiling and under control.
Swapping the kitchen for the bar, chefs teamed up with House Tonic – Cookhouse’s sister drinks programme – to learn how to make, shake and garnish cocktails in Soho House London’s basement. Lead by House Tonic ambassador and bars manager Jay Newell with head bartender Erdem Kayalar (pictured above, middle and far right), chefs learned the art of producing a perfectly balanced drink. Using ingredients like summer berries, chilli, lime and apricot they certainly proved they have a knack for pairing flavours. Naturally, each chef showed their shaker face while producing their own concoctions....
JAMIE OLIVER STUDENTS
Miami Bridge is the city's only 24-hour shelter for vulnerable young people, providing support and education to needy kids. Soho Beach House Miami's general manager Laurent Fraticelli and executive chef Sergio Sigala spent a day at the shelter helping the kids hone the kind of culinary skills that will be invaluable to them in life. They taught a session on how to make lasagne and the young people prepared, then served and shared it with staff and other kids at the shelter. For more info about the shelter go to www.miamibridge.org
On the verge of graduation, Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen apprentices spent the day at High Road House for a cooking session. Led by head chef Devon, the group cooked up a Mediterranean feast of gazpacho, salmon ceviche and crème brulée with a lemon twist. The Fifteen foundation works to encourage young people into the culinary industry, and provide them with the training they need to get started in the kitchen. As a part of multiple trips and training sessions, this year’s apprentices have spent time at Babington House, Pizza East Shoreditch, High Road House, and Dean Street Townhouse. www.cook-house.info
Valencia comes to New York
Cookhouse isn't just about chefs - it's also about sharing culinary skills with guests and members, a few of whom were lucky enough to spend an evening with German Lucarelli, head chef of Soho House New York, in his kitchen. "We cooked paella and fideua from Valencia. Valencia is the land of rice and fideua is a very popular traditional main course similar to paella but made with noodles and seafood cooked in fish broth." Yum!
Lucky enough to be anywhere near Babington House? Then make sure you try out the new Deli Bar, a convivial space where guests can take a seat the big shared bar – made from textured old pieces of wood – or nab an antique metal table, for breakfast, a quick snack or drink, or to grab pudding after a meal.
Portrait by Dai Williams
what i know
The new head chef of Shoreditch House, 30, on how he became a chef and why he loves to cook
hen I was about nine years old I was given a dish of carpaccio of horse with black truffle, in Turin. I'll always remember it. Until then I had mostly just eaten my mum's food and initially I was disgusted by the thought of eating something raw. But when I ate it, it woke me up. It opened my mind. It was the first time I had eaten something so different. I started cooking when I was 14, in Rome. It all started off with my mum, making pasta. Then I got seasonal work in hotels during the summertime when I wasn't at school. The day after I finished school I came to London. Anywhere would have been better than Italy – I just wanted to leave. I wanted to learn English and the jobs were better here. A group of five friends came together and I'm the only one left.
It was meant to be a six-month trip: I've been here for 11 years. I've risen up the ladder quite quickly! I got my first head chef position at Zafferano in 2007, seven years after my career began, which is quite fast. Being head chef at Shoreditch House is a big job. I took the job because it's so difficult. I honestly think it's one of the hardest jobs in London. It's an 18-hour-a-day, seven-days-a-week operation. We do an average of 800 covers a day, but often that goes up to 1200 or 1300. We get through 80kg of mozzarella a week! It's an impressive machine, but you can't see that from the outside. Deciding on a favourite dish is very hard. Cooking with artichokes makes me happy, so probably anything with artichokes in.
Alain Ducasse's recipe books are the best ever written. I own every one and they cover everything you need to know. I was impressed by the price as well – they're worth every penny. Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain was the first chef 's book I ever read which really explained chefs' crazy lives and also how different it is to be a chef outside Italy. A piece of advice that has always stuck in my mind is that it's better to be a good commis than a sh*t chef de partie. It means that you should keep your feet on the ground and do the simplest jobs in a perfect way. I always say this to everyone on my team. To a normal person, this might look like the worst job in the world – such long hours and so stressful – but I'd never change it. I love it. I can't see myself doing anything else.
SOUND GOOD? Want to join one of our kitchen teams in London, Somerset, Berlin, New York, LA, Miami or Toronto? Email email@example.com or check out our website, www.cook-house.info, to find out about vacancies and how to apply
“You should keep your feet on the ground and do the simplest jobs in a perfect way”
It’s been a busy few months for the ever texpanding Soho House Group, with new sites in London and Toronto, plus more to come in Istanbul and Barcelona. (If you want to join one of the teams, email firstname.lastname@example.org) Here’s a round-up of what to expect from the new venues
Above left: Dirty Burger's new dining space. Above right: A delicious dirty meal
“I just love cooking over wood”
ehind the new Pizza East Kentish Town (see next page) and tucked away in the car park, you will now find Dirty Burger, one of Soho House's newest ideas. Despite the massive trend for burgers and sliders right now, it's still surprisingly difficult to get a really good, properly dirty, juices-down-your-arms-andaround-your-face-type burger. But Dirty Burger, which is housed in an
Above: The new and rather gorgeous Pizza East Kentish Town old-school metal shed, with counters and rough wooden worktops for eating off, could just be the answer... Lucy Ede, who helped develop the idea, explains. 'The burger is a handrolled meat pattie in a soft white bread roll. It's filled with a combination of mature cheddar cheese, shredded lettuce, beef tomato and dill pickles, sandwiched together with our secret
burger sauce. The burger is made up of a meat mix developed by our executive chef Harvey Ayliffe. The combination has been designed to be very tender but also juicy and a little bit naughty. All the meats will be minced by hand so that we can control the freshness and quality ourselves.” You should also try a dirty breakfast. Back in August, when the doors opened, there were queues around the block!
“There were queues around the block” Round the back, 79 Highgate Rd, London, NW5 1TL, www.eatdirtyburger.com
Pizza East Kentish Town
ead chef of Pizza East Kentish Town, Theo Lewis, joined the group as a sous chef at Pizza East Shoreditch before moving on to open Pizza East Portobello last year. Now he's at the helm in Kentish Town, north London, and raring to go. “This Pizza East has a similar style, but is completely different,” he explains. “A few of the classic dishes that we're well known for will stay – like the veal meatball pizza – and there will still
be rustic, home-cooked Italian food. But we're also going to be completely wood-fired in terms of the pizza ovens, which is a first for the Group. It's exciting because they are much harder to control and unpredictable, but I just love cooking over wood – they retain heat so well that you can roast meats in them, slowly, overnight.” Theo learned to cook pizzas in wood ovens in Australia. “I was taught by
a guy from Naples,” he says. “It's all about matching the heat at the bottom and the top and balancing that with the flame. There's a real art to it. It's my favourite method of cooking.” Guests at the 170-seat restaurant will be able to try wood-roasted dishes like porchetta with aioli, brilliant pizzas or a taste of some of the carefully chosen cured meats and cheeses, made by small, artisanal producers.
53-79 Highgate Road, Kentish Town, London, NW5 1TL, www.pizzaeastkentishtown.com www.sohohouse.com
lso in the Kentish Town building, if you can resist the smell of the wood ovens, head down to the basement and you'll discover Chicken Shop. Like Dirty Burger, Chicken Shop is all about doing one thing and doing it really well. Here they serve rotisserie chickens, cooked in an open kitchen, chopped into quarters or halves or left whole, with sides of triple-cooked crinkle chips, coleslaw, corn-on-the-cob and avocado salads. “We marinate the chickens overnight,” says Lucy Ede, who helped develop the idea with chef Ronnie Bonetti. “The marinade is savoury and delicious, with just a tiny bit of heat. We also have sauces, made to Ronnie's recipe, so you
can add a bit of fire if you want! You can even buy bottles of them to take home.” (Chicken Shop's walls are lined with vintage wooden tool cabinets, stacked with a mixture of hot sauce and kitsch ceramic chickens.) The team took their time selecting the chickens, before deciding on Banham farm in Norfolk, where the chickens are free range. “We had a fantastic trip to the farm,” says Ronnie. “It was a great chance to see happy hens, with the sun on their backs, digging up worms. We also went to the abattoir, which is a very respectful place, so we saw the whole process. It flows through to making great quality chicken. It's exciting to be working
with the best ingredients.” Chicken Shop chicken had its first outing at House Festival (Soho House’s summer music event), “and we got such a great response.” says Ronnie. “It's been great recruiting a dynamic team, including head chef Sebastian Price. Bringing it all together has been something special.” If you're in the West Country rather than north London, you can try Chicken Shop chicken at Babington House, where Ronnie is head chef, and a brand-new rotisserie has been fitted into the open kitchen, alongside the new deli bar counter. The huge platters of chicken and chips, with punchy aioli, have to be seen to be believed!
Soho House Toronto
or the last three years, Soho House has had a temporary home in Canada during the Toronto Film Festival. Now, that home has become permanent with Soho House Toronto launching as the festival took place this September. And what better way to herald the launch of the House than with five whole days of film festival parties?! “Toronto is an exciting place right now,” says Jimson Bienestock, the new general manager of Soho House Toronto. “Ten years ago there were only fine dining restaurants here, and decent servers and chefs could only go so far up the ladder before they felt they had to move to LA or wherever. But then a place called Black Hoof
“Bringing it all together has been something special” autumn 2012
The space will have the same menu throughout the four floors. “There's a ground floor lounge, a house kitchen and pantry bar like New York's, with an open fireplace, on the first floor, two more lounge spaces on the second and then a roof terrace with a fireplace on the third floor too,” says Jimson. “We want to stay true to Ontario, which is the province Toronto is in. It's a fairly large area, and we want to
showcase its produce,” says Jimson. “So our lobster is from Nova Scotia, mussels are from Prince Edward Island and beef is from Alberta. We are going to be very seasonal. Since Canada has very short seasons, with a four to five-month winter and a three-month intense summer, the menu will have a lot of flexibility – we want it to have a life of its own.” It will be exciting to see Canadian-influenced dishes alongside House regulars like mac ‘n’ cheese. It's going to be a big job. “We are conservatively estimating that we'll do around 360 covers a day when we're up to speed,” says Jimson. “So we have around 25 staff in the kitchen, as well as 10 porters.” Welcome to Soho House Toronto!
“What better way to herald the launch of the House than with five whole days of film festival parties?!” Soho House Toronto, 192 Adelaide Street West, M5H 0A4, www.sohohousetoronto.com
79 Highgate Road, London, NW5 1TL, www.chickenshop.com
opened up and did the whole dressdown, tattooed thing, and casual dining took off. It revolutionised food in Toronto – and our sommelier, Zinta Stephens, worked at Black Hoof Raw Bar, which is great for us.”
kids company visit
From left to right: tomato sauce is carefully ladled out; Pizza East's open wood ovens; enjoying the results of their hard work
“Pizza dough proved to be a brilliant stretchy and edible plasticine”
THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT As part of the charity Kids Company’s Plate Pledge campaign, aimed at feeding London’s most vulnerable youngsters, Pizza East Shoreditch opened its doors for a kids’ cooking session
ids Company is a charity that works with vulnerable children in London. This year, it launched a campaign called Plate Pledge which is all about making sure disadvantaged children get fed properly. It kicked off after the charity’s researchers discovered a shocking 64% of the children that they care for get no food at all at home, meaning they are permanently hungry, while 85% rely on Kids Company for their main meal of the day. This has a huge
impact on their physical and mental development as well as their behaviour. Part of the campaign focuses on educating children about healthy, exciting food so Pizza East Shoreditch recently opened its door to Kids Company and 15 pupils from nearby Cumberland School, who were taught pizza-making and meatball rolling. The students, aged between eight and 11, were split into two groups: half on pizzas and half on meatballs. The
pizza crew learned all about dough and how to stretch, roll and shape it. Next they got to apply their tomato sauce and choose toppings, which they turned into edible pictures. Lots of the ingredients were things they hadn’t tried before – portobello mushrooms, prosciutto and fresh mozzarella – but they tucked in with gusto and got seriously creative. Finally they were helped by chef Nick Fitzgerald to use a wooden peel and slide their creations into Pizza East’s wood-burning ovens. www.sohohouse.com
Meanwhile at the meatball station, the team got stuck into a vat of lamb mince. Each student had to work out how to make their meatballs weigh exactly 60g (2 oz) each – the first few were a bit on the large side, but everyone got the hang of it very quickly. There was even a girls v. boys competition (which the girls won, hands down!). In fact the whole team were so good that if you ate in Pizza East that day, you got a Kids Company meatball. Everyone was treated like a real chef and encouraged to make the most meatballs they could in the time they had, just as they would have to if they were prepping for service. After all their hard work they sat down to eat their creations. “We’re having a feast!” said one child as they sat
down to 20 pizzas, avocado salads and meatballs. “This is fantastic, fun food,” said another (who had been learning about alliteration), while one added that they had “liked the feel of the meatballs, squishing it in my hands.”
and stringing into all sorts of shapes – before being moulded with much care and proud prodding into (not quite) circular bases. There was lots of interest and fun around the open oven for cooking in too.”
Sophie Grimaldi from Kids Company, who worked with Soho House to organise the trip, said, “The workshop was a massive success: a perfect space for children to cook in, interesting ingredients, cheerful chefs and delicious pizza! We could not have asked for more and the children were evidently completely thrilled with the experience. One told me: ‘This is SO much better than Pizza Hut, miss’. Pizza dough proved to be a brilliant sort of edible plasticine in the children’s hands – stretching
The chefs also had a blast, keeping the kids entertained in the busy, hot kitchens. “It was great,” said Fitzgerald. “I even offered one of them a job!” he joked. A lot of takeaway boxes were called into service, so the children could take home what was left of their workshop to share with their families. To donate and find out more about the Plate Pledge campaign and Kids Company, visit www. kidscoplatepledge.org £2 provides two meals for a hungry child.
COMMUNITY COOKING Want to cook and be part of the local community? Join one of our kitchens: email email@example.com www.cook-house.info
out......... cut it
Recipes for you to cut out and keep from some of the top chefs who’ve visited Soho House Group’s kitchens around the world.
STEPHANIE IZARD STEPHANIE IZARD'S ROASTED CAULIFLOWER As cooked when Stephanie guest cheffed at Soho House West Hollywood. Delicious!
Serves 4 as a side
2 tbs oil 4 cups / 400g cauliflower, sliced salt, to taste 2 tbs water 1 tbs crunch butter (method below) 1 tbs pine nuts, toasted 2 tbs pickled peppers 1 oz / 25g parmesan cheese, grated 1 tbs mint, torn
for the garnish: 2 tsp pine nuts, toasted 2 tsp parmesan cheese, grated 2 tsp mint, torn Heat oil in a sauté pan. Add the cauliflower and cook until caramelised on one side, toss and continue to cook until caramelised on all sides. Season with salt. Add the water and steam until cooked. Add the crunch butter and toss to coat then add the remaining pine nuts and pickled pepper. Toss until heated. Remove from the heat. Add the parmesan cheese and mint, then toss to combine. Plate or platter as desired and garnish with pine nuts, parmesan cheese and mint.
4 oz / 100g unsalted butter, softened 1 garlic clove, grated 2 tbs parmesan cheese, grated 2 tbs panko bread crumbs salt, to taste In a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine all the ingredients and whip until light and fluffy. (Leftover butter can be stored in the refrigerator.) Stephanie Izard’s cookbook, The Girl In The Kitchen is out now, $29.95
MARK HIX TAMARIND-BAKED BACK RIBS Mark Hix is a well-known London-based chef who is focused on simple, seasonal cooking. He has done several pop ups and demos for Soho House Group chefs. “Rib racks can be found in most butchers (I’ve seen them in supermarkets) while you might need to head to an Asian or middle eastern shop or good deli to get hold of tamarind paste and pomegranate molasses. You can use beef ribs here if you like, though bear in mind they will need a bit more cooking.”
1–2 pork back rib racks, about 1.5–2kg/2-6 lbs for the marinade: 100g / 3 ½ oz tamarind paste 100g / 3 ½ oz pomegranate molasses 6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 60g / 2 oz root ginger, peeled and grated ½ tbsp ground cumin Smear the ribs with the marinade ingredients in a stainless-steel or nonreactive bowl. Cover with cling film and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 24 hours (the longer the better).
Preheat the oven to 190°C/gas mark 5/375ºF. Transfer the marinated ribs to a baking or roasting tin and cook for 30 minutes, basting as they are cooking. Turn the oven down to 160°C/gas mark 3/320ºF, cover the tray with foil and continue cooking and basting for another hour, then remove the foil and cook, basting, for a further 30–45 minutes. Remove the ribs from the oven and serve whole or cut into sections with a simple green salad, coleslaw or baked sweet potatoes.
Mark Hix on Baking is out in October, published by Quadrille
MARY SUE MILLIKEN TV chef Mary Sue Milliken is co-owner of three Border Grill restaurants in LA and Las Vegas and, with her partnerin-cooking Susan Feniger, has changed the way Mexican food is seen in the US (www.bordergrill.com). She’s also a great friend to Soho House West Hollywood. “I love grilled beef heart for it’s chewy texture and lean, clean, meaty flavor. When well trimmed, it needs only a brief visit to a hot grill and a drizzle of aioli. I change the marinade around depending on which chillies I happen to be fond of at the moment.”
AJI AMARILLO AIOLI 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar juice of 1 lime and its zest 1 clove garlic ½ tsp salt 2-3 tbs Peruvian aji amarillo paste, to taste 1 cup / 230ml extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbs chopped parsley In a blender, combine egg yolk, vinegar, lime juice and zest, garlic, salt and aji amarillo paste. Blend until smooth. With the motor still running, drizzle in olive oil very slowly until the mixture has the consistency of mayonnaise (adding too much oil will cause the aioli to break). Stir in the parsley, taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary.
ANTICUCHOS (GRILLED SKEWERED BEEF HEARTS} Serves 4 with other dishes
3 cloves garlic 1 jalepeno, stemmed, seeded, and roughly chopped 2 tsp Marash pepper (or 2-3 dry arbol, Aleppo pepper, Peruvian aji panca puree) 1 tsp dry oregano leaves ¼ cup / 60ml red wine vinegar 1½ tsp sea salt freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/3 cup / 80ml extra-virgin olive oil 1 pound / 450g beef hearts, trimmed of all sinew and silver skin To make the marinade, purée garlic, jalapeno and Marash pepper, oregano, red wine vinegar, salt, and pepper in the blender. With motor still running, slowly add olive oil until thoroughly incorporated. Cut the beef hearts into 4- x 1/2-inch (1.5cm) strips about 1/2-inch thick. Place in a bowl, pour on the marinade, and toss to coat evenly. Cover, refrigerate and marinate for a few hours. To cook, preheat the grill or broiler. Thread heart on skewers. Grill the skewers until seared on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes total. Serve with any favourite salad and aji amarillo aioli drizzle.
“I love beef heart for its chewy texture and lean, clean, meaty flavour”
ATUL KOCHHAR SQUID SALAD Atul Kochhar is a Michelin-starred chef who has done a huge amount to raise the profile of Indian food in the UK at his restaurant, Benares, in London. This summer he brought a taste of Benares to High Road House in Chiswick with a One Night Stand pop up. (For more chefs’ pop ups see www.houseseven.com)
500g / 1lb squid rings 2 tbsp rice flour 2 tbsp corn flour 1 tbsp red chilli powder 20g / 1 oz ginger garlic paste juice of a lime salt chat masala (powdered spice blend) for the garnish:
passionfruit, in pieces sweet chilli sauce Mix all dry ingredients. Coat the squid and deep fry till crisp. Dress with passion fruit pieces and sweet chilli sauce. Atul Kochhar is chef-director of Benares, Berkeley Sq, W1J 6BS. His new book, Curries of the World is out later this year
friends of cookhouse
“I love cooking goat. I have lots of fun cooking goat”
Much loved chef Stephanie Izard, from Girl and the Goat restaurant in Chicago, recently joined Soho House West Hollywood to cook a guest-chef dinner. Lucky Julia Taylor-Brown got to meet her
ithin the first year of opening Girl and the Goat in 2010, Stephanie Izard was nominated for a James Beard award and named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs. Her menu for us included chickpea fritters, caponata, Broken Arrow Ranch quail with watermelon, watermelon radish and spigarella, plus crisp braised pork shank with spring onion, kimchee and buttermilk dressing. Delicious! Dishes were paired with Grey Goose cocktails designed for the evening. What’s the most memorable meal you’ve ever had? I always think back to a meal I had at Tetsuya’s in Australia. It was my first time as a young chef going to a restaurant whose cookbook I had, and one of my first tasting menu dinners. I thought it was the most amazing thing ever. I was traveling by myself so I went alone and watched everyone else eat and how excited they were about the food. It was very cool to see. What’s your favourite thing to cook? I love cooking goat. I have a lot of fun cooking goat. What ingredient is really exciting for you right now? It’s something so simple, but I was
How do you relax outside the kitchen? What keeps you sane? I am on a master swim team and try to go to four practices a week. I was a swimmer growing up, so I love it. It’s just such a great way to start the day – wake up at 5.30, walk the dog, go to swim practice. What is one item you can’t live without in your kitchen? Preserved lemon! You can just add that little bit of acid and that little bit of lemony-ness without it being overpowering. just writing about sweetcorn. We get amazing sweetcorn in the Midwest. I try and cook it as little as possible, even in dishes where it’s served hot. I eat it right off the cob – it’s like candy. What is your favourite restaurant? I had dinner at ink. last night and it was delicious. We got a tour of the space one of the last times we were in LA, about a year ago, before the restaurant opened, so it was very exciting to be there. Chef [Michael Voltaggio] uses some cool techniques to emphasise rather than take over the natural ingredients.
What’s the most unusual restaurant you’ve been to? I was just in Columbia with our coffee company Stumptown on a buying trip. We were driving through the middle of nowhere, with no cell phone service, and had to pull over when we lost the other car. We went into a restaurant in a little town where a woman was cooking by herself in a kitchen with an awesome bread oven, in a sort of shacky restaurant. She made us eggs and rice, a little bit of meat and some bread. It was really cool to find this place where the locals eat, in a tiny town of like twenty people. www.sohohouse.com
What inspired you to write your cookbook, Girl in the Kitchen? My friend Heather Shouse and I wanted to get into cookbooks. We put together a collection of stories and recipes leading up to when The Girl & the Goat opened. There are some people who can’t come to the events we do, or who didn’t know about Scylla, my first restaurant, so we put together a random array of things leading up to now. I like the writing part – I did the writing and she condensed
the things I talked way too much about. I like to tell fun stories about different recipes and where they came from. Getting your first book out there is scary and hard. A lot more goes into it than you think – you have to test every recipe three of four times, and you have to actually measure things! I wanted to do something for the home cook, since I think there are a lot of cookbooks where nobody at home can actually recreate the recipes. I have a lot of those books because they’re beautiful to look at, but my whole thing is to always be accessible to the home cook. If you could have one person cook for you, dead or alive, who would it be? That’s a hard one. I would love to eat some of Julia Child’s food and hang out with her. She just seemed really crass and funny and so much fun, I would love to hang out in the kitchen with her and eat all of that rich French yumminess. We’re excited for the opening of Little Goat – what else can we look forward to from you? Little Goat is opening in October, so we are working on the menu for that right now. We are also writing the Girl and the Goat cookbook, which will be a collection of 100 recipes from the first two years and fun behind-the-scenes stories since opening a restaurant, especially one of that size, comes with a lot of craziness. We’ve also announced we’re going to be opening a fast-food style chicken chain in Chicago. I’m just trying to fit in as much as possible.
Top: wood-fired chicken; Stephanie Izard; canapes at Soho House West Hollywood
Portrait and chicken photos by Anthony Tahlier
What’s the best piece of cooking advice you were ever given and who gave it to you? I was trying to caramelise some vegetables once, seasoning with salt, and the onions weren’t caramelising. My chef at the time, Shawn McClain, told me it was because I put the salt on too early. It was leaching out all the juices so the onions couldn’t caramelise. It made so much sense! So now when I talk to my cooks and they’re sautéing, I tell them the two ways to do it. Either you want to get colour so you wait to season it with salt, or you don’t want any colour, like in our onion soup, so season immediately. It stuck with me.
Girl and the Goat, 809 W Randolph, Chicago, IL 60607, www.girlandthegoat.com, (312) 492-6262. Girl in the Kitchen is out now.
WANT TO LEARN? Join one of Soho House's kitchen teams and learn from top guest chefs. Email firstname.lastname@example.org www.cook-house.info
KHOO'S THAT GIRL TV chef Rachel Khoo pays a visit to Soho House Group’s London pastry chefs. Oli Juste, Soho House’s head of learning and development, reports back
few months ago, I discovered Rachel Khoo on her BBC TV programme, My Little Paris Kitchen. Straight away, I thought she was amazing. Bringing playfulness to French cooking has been my passion at home for years as I am French myself, living in London. Rachel is in fact from Croydon, south London, but has lived, trained and worked in Paris for several years.
We took our seats in the private dining room (and were served a fabulous
woven vegetables, fruit leather and a dish called ‘a clothed scarlet dashi with gobelins boulettes’. Wow.
That meeting resulted in her cooking at Nuno Mendes' London supperclub, The Loft, on a night called the Mash Up. She talked the chefs through her strawberry and balsamic terrine with Petit Billy Goat’s cheese that she cooked on the night. Rachel also recalled her travels to Sydney, where, with her friend Frankie, she created Edible Immigration Tales – dinners telling a story of Australia through food and serving dishes like ‘First encounter with native grub’: goat’s curd and macadamia nut grubs on dehydrated date leaves; or ‘Cuppa tea with Dundee’: homemade special brew served with marinated crocodile sticks. Later, they devised Edible Tapestry Tales in Melbourne, using food as a kind of fabric for which she prepared
It seemed to us all that her book deal last year and the TV show this year is the culmination of a lot of hard work, her ability to surround herself with good, talented friends and a true passion for food and fun. However this is not the end, but only the beginning. Rachel’s passion and dedication to food and her career is obvious, and admirable. We are only tasting the amuse bouche of her careeer.
When we asked Rachel why she likes Paris so much, she said it was for the tasty and affordable food; but she also mentioned the Bistronomy movement. The idea of Bistronomy is to cook well known, classic gastronomic dishes in a bistro style, and of course for bistro prices too: no snobbery, no fuss. Trust us French to find a way to still eat well in a hard economic climate.
We heart Miss Khoo very much at Soho House and hope to see her again soon. Rachel Khoo’s book, Little Paris Kitchen, is out now (Micheal Joseph). www.rachelkhoo.com. Go to www.cook-house.info to try out one of Rachel’s brilliant sweet recipes
Portrait by David Loftus
So when the time came to invite someone to conclude our Slow Cooked training programme for pastry chefs, Jake Rigby-Wilson, Soho House’s group pastry chef, and I agreed immediately that it should be her…we just had to find a way. Fortunately Rachel agreed to visit us and the day finally came. I met Rachel outside Shoreditch House in east London and although I don’t want to be rude to any other celebrity chefs who might happen to read this article...damn, she looked good! Rachel seemed even smaller in real life and wore a simple black top, a fun, colourful dress, blue ankle strap shoes and bright fuchsia lipstick. Just like her accent, her style is a mix of Parisian chic and some cool Britannia. We were all immediately under her spell.
afternoon tea). Rachel talked to us about her early years, when working as an au pair in Paris (for bread and butter, so to speak) but also as a food designer and writer at La Cocotte in Paris. Rachel was “pimping” cupcakes in Paris when she met experimental chef Nuno Mendes – who is Portuguese but lives and works in London at Viajante – at a food festival in France. Describing this meeting as scary and exciting, I think our pastry chefs around the table knew exactly what she meant: it was one of the moments you know is important for your career.
“We were all immediately under her spell” 20 COOKHOUUSE
tripping out Gawn fishin’
“Turning in with a great catch, a spot of sunburn... and one or two dogfish”
Soho House New York’s head chef German Lucarelli took his team on an unforgettable fishing trip. First up, just some tiny fluke were landed, but things improved no end, with bigger and bigger fish ending up in the nets and even a mussel getting hooked (somehow!). The guys also got to try out a pedalo, zoom around on a jet ski and wound up their day with barbecued prawns and octopus on the grill, traditional Italian sweets, and (just a few) beers.
From top: First two pictures, Soho House New York's fishing crew; Italian sweets; learning about fish prep off Brighton's coastline.
Also taking to the high seas were nine Soho House chefs who chartered a boat from Brighton marina. Setting sail at 7.30am the team tackled up and took to the water in search of mackerel. With Brighton marina being one of the best starting points for deep-sea wreck fishing, they were spoilt for choice with over 200 wreck sites to pick from. The guys managed to secure a good hoard, turning in with a great catch, a spot of sunburn, and one or two dogfish. Their day fishing also ended with a well-deserved beer. (Hmm. Cookhouse spots a pattern emerging...!)
Cooking at Caldesi
DAY TRIPPIN' As always, the Soho House Group kitchen teams around the world have been both working and playing hard. The Cookhouse programme is all about exposing chefs to as much of the food world as possible – from how to make perfect scrambled eggs to snorkelling for lobster off Miami beach. Here’s what the crews got up to this summer...
Soho House Group chefs headed to the Caldesi test kitchen in London for a masterclass in Italian cuisine. Showcasing the unique flavours of prosciutto di San Daniele and Grana Padano cheese was the man himself, Giancarlo Caldesi. Over freshly baked pastries chefs heard directly from the members of the Italian Consortiums about the history, culture and the surroundings that have influenced the taste and production processes of San Daniele and Grana Padano over the years. Following a master class on slicing on and off the bone, chefs got involved with a cookery session led by Giancarlo and made some proper spaghetti carbonara, fresh breadsticks and toasted Italian breads with fig jam. Naturally, all were then enjoyed with a nice glass of wine. www.cook-house.info
Every year, just before the main lobster fishing season off Miami’s coast begins, locals can apply for the right to go lobster snorkelling. This summer a few of the team from Soho House Miami and Cecconi’s took the plunge, picking up a great catch of armour-plated crustacea to cook up.
Santa Monica Farmers’ Market
The farmers’ market at Santa Monica again proved an irresistible draw to some of Soho House’s LA team, and so Julia Taylor-Brown (who runs Cookhouse’s North American operations) and executive chef Andrea Cavaliere made one of their regular field trip/pilgrimages. Julia explains: “We tried delicious Persian mulberries from Weiser Family Farms. Alex Weiser is the most amazing man! So knowledgeable and so passionate about his product. Persian mulberries are sweet, dark berries that don’t have even a hint of the sour you usually get from blackberries or other berries. They are like crack. Seriously. You don’t want to share them with anyone, and you’ll be lucky if they survive the car ride home without all of them ending up in your belly. Once Andrea realised I was the holder of the berries he confiscated them since I (rightly) couldn’t be trusted to save any for everyone else.”
“It was so amazing I swear my face melted off my head and onto the floor” Gelato making
Diving for lobster off Miami beach. It's a tough life for chefs. Below: Persian mulberries
“After the trip to Santa Monica Farmers market, we took the produce to Cecconi’s West Hollywood’s kitchen for a gelato-making workshop with Alessandro Fontana from Gelato Gusto Italiano,” says Julia Taylor-Brown. “The team made tiramisu, watermelon and strawberry gelato. It was so amazing I swear my face melted off my head and onto the floor from the sheer delight I experienced with that first bite...the most ridiculously good strawberry gelato I have ever had.”
“Cooks from Cecconi’s and Soho House West Hollywood caravaned out to ReRide ranch to check out Lefty and Vicky Ayer’s flock of goats, sheep and pigs,” says Julia Taylor-Brown. “Our wonderful hosts Lefty and Vicky raise naturally grown, pasture-raised pigs including two of our chef ’s favorites – Blue Butts and Berkshires. The day’s adventure included a tour of the property, a discussion with Lefty about his ranching practices and ended with a shared picnic lunch straight the from the Soho House kitchen.”
How do you like them eggs?
In the pursuit of perfection when it comes to scrambled eggs, all Soho House London’s chefs who work with them gathered together in Dean Street Townhouse to learn how it’s done by the master – breakfast chef Erik. And no, we’re not telling you all his secrets!
Game for anything Top: Gelato. Above and below: chefs learn perfect scrambled eggs at Dean St Townhouse
It’s well and truly game season in the UK, so executive chef Harvey Ayliffe recently hosted a grouse demo. Phoebe Strawson was there: “Harvey took us all through through plucking, gutting, preparing, roasting. The final dish was roasted grouse with ham, served on a crouton with chopped livers, parsnip chips and bread sauce. So tasty!”
“Seriously, you don’t want to share them with anyone”
tripping out Eat your veg
It’s not all about carnivorous offerings of course - ex Michelin-starred chef turned veg-man Phillip Britten, now owner of Solstice, brought his ripe pickings to Soho. Fabulous fruit and vegetables were shared with the teams who’d gathered at Dean Street Townhouse.
Photos: Chris Tomsett
Jason Vaughan visit
Au Cheval is a terrific restaurant in Chicago, serving some of the best burgers in the area, hand-cut potatoes, porterhouses, and pitch-perfect bologna sandwiches. It’s a diner, with an open kitchen, and the food is carefully sourced and thoughtfully prepared as well as accompanied by fresh, zesty salads and vegetables. No surprise then that its executive chef, Jason Vaughan, shares a lot of the Soho House values. SHG chefs were lucky enough to get a shot of his skills when he came to visit London. First he spent a week in the kitchens of Little House, taking some of its signature dishes and putting his own spin on them. Next he did a full-on demo in the kitchens of Dean Street Townhouse, serving up his versions of rib-eye, summer gazpacho soup, salt-baked salmon, chopped chicken livers and flat chicken. His motto? “Take pride in simple food, everything on the plate has to add heart to the dish and season well.”
Paxton and Whitfield
Executive pastry chef Jake Rigby-Wilson led a group outing to legendary cheese shop Paxton and Whitfield, near Piccadilly. The company has been going since the late 1700s, and there’s really very little that they don’t know about cheese. You can buy almost any fromage you can think of there – including cheese wedding cakes. The group had a brilliant time tasting the wares and came back full of new ideas.
“Everything on the plate has to add heart to the dish” TAKE A TRIP Are you an ambitious young chef? Join one of Soho House's teams around the world and get great training, top trips and maybe even the chance to work overseas. Find out more by emailing email@example.com
Jason Vaughan cooking at Dean St Townhouse
As part of our on-going partnership with Grey Goose, mixologist Joe McCanta went to meet Theo Lewis, head chef at the new Pizza East Kentish Town, to talk about flavours and design Theo a perfect cocktail
efore Joe visited the newest Pizza East venue, he sent Theo a list of questions to think about: which are his favourite drinks, does he like them strong or weak and what are his favourite flavours? Theo’s answers helped Joe design a drink in advance to test out on the top chef, who likes hot spices, salt, bitter and herbaceous flavours and loves mint, basil, bay and rosemary. Pizza East Kentish Town (and its building-mates Dirty Burger and Chicken Shop) was still being finished when Cookhouse visited (in fact, a huge dough mixer was being carefully and nervously winched down the stairs outside), so we cleared a space among the ladders and deliveries and Joe and Theo got to work.
“I always cook with the seeds left in,” said Theo. “Otherwise what’s the point?” Because Theo clearly loves heat in his food, Joe also left the skin on the ginger he added next. “People often don’t realise that a lot of the flavour in ginger is from the skins.” Then he added a little hand-clapped basil – “slapping it releases the essential oils much faster” – and muddled everything together. Finally he popped it all – fruit, leaves, chilli and ginger – into a soda syphon and charged it with CO2. “This was a trick we picked up when Grey Goose did some work with chef Ferran Adria’s restaurant el Bulli,” Joe explained. “They make lots of their syrups, like raspberry, with a light carbonation, either with
Next Joe muddled a couple of lime segments in a glass and poured in 50ml of Grey Goose vodka, to which he then added the subtly carbonated contents of the soda syphon. Garnished with a slice of ginger, sprig of basil and a slice of chilli, Theo’s drink was ready. “This is just what I need right now,” said Theo. “With all this going on around us,” he added, as a drill started up nearby. “It’s refreshing and summery and the lime, basil and ginger work together really well. I also like that it uses flavours that are key for us here: chilli and basil.”
“Vodka is a chameleon” Joe McCanta (left) and chef Theo Lewis making a tailormade cocktail at the brand new Pizza East in Kentish Town, north London
“I’ve always been blown away by Pizza East’s ingredients,” said Joe. “And I wanted to replicate that.” Theo – who works with Deli Station and Gastronomica to find small producers who make the best foods for his menu – agreed. “You just don’t have to do much if you have really great ingredients,” he laughed. “We’re going to change the menu here every four or five weeks, which keeps the chefs excited and means the younger guys get to try things they might not have tried before. It’s very much like making drinks – it’s all about the processes which go into a dish. And this is a great drink.” Cheers! www.sohohouse.com
THEO'S BESPOKE BLEND
80ml honey mixed with 250ml water 125ml lime juice red chilli thumb of ginger, sliced sprig of basil 50ml Grey Goose vodka lime chunks to serve Muddle all except vodka and lime wedges. Carbonate in soda syphon. Muddle lime in glass and add contents of syphon, ice and vodka. Garnish with basil, ginger and chilli.
Photographs by Steven Joyce
Theo’s favourite drink is a rum and ginger-based Dark and Stormy, so Joe had worked up a new version using vodka rather than the traditional Goslings rum. “Vodka is a chameleon,” explained Joe. “You can make it work in place of other spirits.” First Joe mixed 80ml of Kentish honey with 250ml of water. Next he added 125ml of lime juice and a few chunks of sliced red chilli. “You could let the chillies infuse overnight,” said Joe. “But chillies are so volatile that you’re not really in control of the flavour if you do that.”
CO2 or nitrogen, which helps the essences of the flavours come out in a very fresh way.”
in praise of…
Dave Green, head chef at Dean Street Townhouse, fell in love with the humble haggis a decade ago. Here, he sings its praises
moved to Scotland to work at the Balmoral Hotel 10 years ago and that was when I discovered haggis. I loved it served in the traditional Scottish way, with neaps and tatties (mashed swede, which the Scots call turnip, and mashed potato). A little bit of whisky cream sauce goes well on the side. Then I learned about Burns Night, when Scots celebrate the poet Robert Burns (near his birthday in January). I found it incredible that one of his poems celebrating haggis – An Address to a Haggis – is read out and that the man reading the poem whips a dagger out of his sock to cut it open with, at which point all the guests toast the haggis with whisky. I love haggis for that drama, as well as the fact that it's just delicious. I've seen it being made at the famous MacSween factory; haggis is one of those things that even locals agree
We had it on the menu last Autumn and will do so again this year. Last year I mixed potato and haggis together and then rolled, breadcrumbed and deepfried them. We served the balls on a bed of parsnip mash.
should be made by a professional. and I doubt many people make it at home these days – perhaps a few farmers in the far north. It's made with the whole pluck of the sheep – heart, lung, liver and kidney – minced and mixed with lots of black pepper, onion and a little barley and oats to hold it together. That’s all stuffed into a sheep's stomach and boiled for hours. Considering what it's made of and how, it actually doesn't taste of offal at all. There are a lot of Australians, New Zealanders and Poles in the Dean Street kitchen, and I usually don't tell them what's in it before I give them haggis to taste.
You really do have to stick to the three main ingredients. Haggis sells really well – especially among our foodie lunchtime crowd. Management weren't convinced when I wanted to put it on the menu, but when they tasted it, the plates were clean in about five seconds flat. I go back to Edinburgh once or twice a year to see friends and I make a point of going to my favourite fish and chip shop on Picardy Place, for deepfried haggis (the Scots will deep fry anything). It's also the best chippy – otherwise known as the Rave Chippy – because on Friday and Saturday nights they have a DJ playing banging techno, and it’s open until 5am.
“I usually don’t tell people what’s in haggis before I give it to them to taste” 30 COOKHOUUSE
FANATICAL ABOUT FOOD? Soho House Group is always on the look out for new talent. If you want a great career in food then get in touch. We have 23 members clubs, restaurants and hotels in the UK, Berlin and North America, with more opening in the next couple of years. We offer tailor-made training, excellent support and the chance to travel or possibly even work overseas. Our farm-to-fork food philosophy is all about working with great ingredients, treated simply and with respect - whether we're flipping burgers in our brand new Dirty Burger kitchen or making perfect pasta in Cecconi's.
WE'D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU For more information about current kitchen vacancies worldwide and how to apply email firstname.lastname@example.org, visit our website, www.cook-house.info, or call Gareth Jones on +44 (0)20 7581 2569 If youâ€™d like to work in our North American sites, email Julia Taylor-Brown, email@example.com
Published on Nov 13, 2013
Published on Nov 13, 2013
Welcome to the autumn 2012 issue of Cookhouse, the Soho House food magazine for chefs and people who love to eat. This magazine celebrates t...