Flanders today may 2, 2012
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Tom Baetens, Tim Van Aelst and Bart Cannaerts of Flemish production house Shelter © Dominique Dierick
Sacred grounds
Flanders is finally embracing the world’s best coffees and those who brew them Courtney Davis
Late March saw the publication of The Belgium & Netherlands Coffee Guide, “the definitive guide to the top coffee venues” here and in our neighbour to the north. The book’s launch coincides with a growing obsession with coffee in Flanders: Senseo coffee pads, Nespresso shots and Starbucks take-away have all added to the ease with which local consumers can get their caffeine fix.
“F
ive years ago, we didn’t have 100 good coffee places,” says Coffee Guide editor Moniek Smit. “Now, after I finished the book, an additional four great coffee places opened in Antwerp. I have to update it
already. The coffee scene is developing very quickly.” Until the last decade, coffee was mostly consumed at home via a filter-drip machine. Much like the bakeries and butchers, coffee beans were roasted locally. “We moved away from that and went more national, with larger companies,” says Smit. “This was the start of the Italianstyle espresso machine. There was a transformation from the big pot of coffee to the individual.” Coffee-drinkers in Flanders are catching up with their European neighbours to the south in realising that coffee isn’t just an after-dinner requirement. The wealth of drinks, from cappuccinos to flavoured specialities with an endless array of toppings and “latte art” (that pretty design a good barista makes on top of your foam), has finally become
accessible to the masses. Flanders’ coffee scene is in a third wave, says Smit, “where we understand that there is different equipment required for each coffee. It is special and more of a science. You talk to a barista, and it’s all about temperature, pressure, grams and weight.” In fact, it can be so difficult to make a proper cup of coffee that there are official trainers and certifiers in the business, as well as national and international championships. “People want to be good baristas, to learn and to educate themselves,” says Michel Hoorens, president of Belgian Coffee Education (BCE), the local chapter of the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe. One of the ways that BCE motivates people to make good coffee is through their ``continued on page 3