Collezioni Donna 173 - Paris London #ss 2017

€40,00 (I) - € 62,00 (B/D/E/F/P) - € 67,00 (A/NL) - Chf. 85,00 (CH) - TRIM. November 2016 - ISSN 1120-1925 60173 >

new emotions

PARIS_LONDON_ PORTO_COPENHAGEN_KYIV PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017 PRE-COLLECTIONS_CATWALKS_FASHION TRENDS_STREETWEAR_BEACHWEAR

www.collezioni.info

16

COLLEZIONIDONNA INTERVIEW

www.collezioni.info

LUXURY NIGHTWEAR

by FANG and lingerie label SangLuo together for a nightwear capsule collection that unifies Chinese design and silk workmanship excellence Clelia Zanni

How do by FANG and SangLuo relate to each other and come about to collaborate?

by FANG and SangLuo are two brands with very different DNAs.

by FANG has a very defined personality. Fine craftsmanship represents the spirit of this brand. The couture line, Atelier by FANG, has developed steadily in the past few years and the origami-style pieces it creates is its hallmark. by FANG is one of the most iconic and swiftly emerging Chinese designer label and was chosen by Swarovski as one of the first Asian independent designers with which it began a collaboration. Behind its garments stands the creativity of its designer, Fang Yang, who grew up in a family of artists and writers, moved to Paris when she was twenty-four years old and graduated from the ESMOD Fashion Design School before crafting and producing her first collections in the French capital.

SangLuo is a lingerie label founded by Lesley Yu, whose family has had a long tradition in the world of silk manufacturing.

Jiangsu Hua Jia Silk Corporation Limited, established in Suzhou the historical City of Silk in China - is specialized in the production of this precious fiber for nightwear, with particular attention given towards quality, while still taking into account the aesthetics and lifestyle of the country.

Lesley did not, however, continue on the path defined by her family, but went on to extend it with something new and different. The development of a luxury sleepwear label that can be worn for different occasions.

2013 was an important year for both brands. Yang Fang returned to Shanghai, redefining the spirit of her label and naming it by FANG, while Lesley Yu started a new adventure with the SangLuo brand. Lesley sought the collaboration of foreign designers, in order to impart a distinctive image to her label, but her wish was to find someone who was truly familiar with oriental beauty, capable of best expressing the aesthetics of SangLuo. Fang Yang was the answer. A mutual admiration led to uniting their talents in the arts and entrepreneurial fields and creating this capsule collection.

What does SangLuo by FANG represent?

SangLuo by FANG not only comes as the first high-end,

international profiled, nightwear collection designed and produced in China, it also contributes to establish a trend in the industry where independent designers combine with large manufacturers for strong, sustainable and impactful results. This is more so important in China where manufacturers still need to build a reputation and express the important positive changes occurred in the recent years.

What is hidden behind the collection’s philosophy?

The collection combines aesthetics from East and West, where touches of oriental charm mix with Art Deco silhouettes, reminiscent of the Western world. Chemises and pajamas are made of pure silk, while nightgowns resemble eveningwear. Fang Yang’s precise tailoring and attention towards detail marries with SangLuo’s sumptuous silk fabrics.

The result is a perfect balance between elegance and lightness.

Many are the designer’s sources of inspiration: from the masculine charm of gentlemen in suits and ties, to fashion icons who don nightwear as if it weren’t such, as well as costumes from “The Great Gatsby”, and architectural works from the Art Deco period. Lace alternates with striped patterns. Lines follow the contours of the body and remind us of Ossie Clark’s wonderful vintage dresses. Iconic edging similar to Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann’s - one of the greatest interior designers of the 20th century - stand out on white pajamas, wearable on various occasions, recalling the elegance of French women.

SangLuo by FANG is an exclusive collection going beyond classic pastel colors. Yang Fang’s black and white stripes mark a pivotal moment. A fresh, bold touch, but one that does not diminish the femininity that lives in her garments.

What role does craftsmanship play within the capsule collection?

Craftsmanship plays a key role. The techniques used to join and sew together such delicate fabrics are Yang Fang’s strong point. Her skill has become exceptional thanks to many years of experience in creating delicately hand-crafted master-pieces. The final result is excellence, achieved after several attempts in reaching the highest levels of tailoring expertise.

SANGLUO BY FANG

17

52

COLLEZIONIDONNA

www.collezioni.info

Abécédaire des métiers d’art - Elisabeth Lercihe

Transfermania International

Bon Bon-Luca Nichetto - MAISON&OBJET 2016 Dondup s/s 2017 Charlotte Olympia s/s 2017

People in Paris

DIARY OF TRENDS

Transfermania International

SPARKLING Light is trapped in the net. A thousand brilliant reflections, refractions of rhinestones and crystals in endless tones of color that invitingly allude, like captivating mermaids. Perfectly in tune with the spirit of the season - loving the magical shimmer of iridescent materials and fabrics - CRYSTAL NET©, an exclusive project by Transfermania International, is known for its incomparably versatility. From precious stones to amber, from soft mohair to velvet, Crystal Net lends itself to the most varied interpretations when it comes to garments and fashion accessories, creating an original and exclusive appeal.

La luce è imprigionata nella rete, mille e mille riflessi brillanti, rifrazioni di strass e di cristalli dalle infinite cromie ammiccano invitanti come sirene tentatrici. Perfettamente in sintonia con lo spirito di stagione che adora i magici riflessi di materiali e tessuti cangianti, CRYSTAL NET©, progetto esclusivo di Transfermania International, è per duttilità unica al mondo. Dalla preziosità delle pietre alle ambre, dal morbido mohair al velluto si presta, docile, alle più svariate interpretazioni per capi ed accessori moda rendendoli originali ed esclusivi. www.transfermania.it

53

54

COLLEZIONIDONNA

www.collezioni.info

Aquilano Rimondi Resort s/s 2017

Alberto Zambelli

Atelier des art- Elisabeth Leriche Versace Resort s/s 2017

Esprit Studio

People in Paris

DIARY OF TRENDS

Copenhagen Fashion Week s/s 2017

STRIPES The emotional power of color is fully, and not only, expressed in contemporary artistic forms. An irregular play on stripes or rhythmic intervals, in different widths and proportions, interprets body language, personalizes objects of design, draws interior atmospheres. Excited and captivated, we allow ourselves be enveloped by this irresistible, always seducing whirlwind.

La forza emotiva del colore trova piena espressione nelle forme artistiche contemporanee, e non solo, in giochi irregolari o intervalli ritmici di righe, in diverse ampiezze e proporzioni, interpreta il linguaggio del corpo, personalizza oggetti di design, disegna atmosfere d’interni. Emozionati e coinvolti ci lasciamo avvolgere da questo turbinio irresistibile, che sempre conquista.

55

28

COLLEZIONIDONNA INTERVIEW

www.collezioni.info

EACH X OTHER, WHEN FASHION In this interview Jenny Mannerheim of Each x Other explains the story behind this phenomenon Maurizio Francesconi

In Paris we met Jenny Mannerheim, one of the two creative minds behind the Each x Other brand which, again this season, turns out to be among the most interesting collections of the entire Paris fashion week.

What can you tell me about your s/s 2017 collection?

The collection was inspired by the words in “The Society of the Spectacle» and French situationist philosophy from the 60s. Some of the styles in the collection look purposely un-done, styles with no shape, as a sort of rebellion towards the sophistication of today’s society.

The show was set in the Tuileries gardens in The Louvre as a statement and homage to the Parisian beauty and the architecture of this incredible monument that is also one of the most important art museums in the world.

What’s the inspiration?

The collection “Oh la la land” was inspired by iconoclastic stage silhouettes: dance clothes, theater costumes, uniforms, rockstar outfits. All sorts of clothing and accessories that reminds us of the spectacle as in theater, dance, cinema & music.

Tell me something about your career, how it started and what you think of the fashion system today.

I went to Parsons NYC and was interning at Jalouse magazine US edition, it was year 19972000 and New York was at its hype, downtown vibrating with young designers and artists…

I was attending all the fashion shows and parties and giving helping hands to friend designers the nights before shows. Fashion was everywhere and everything, but it still felt like an exclusive insiders love affair. I got hired as a junior art director at a book publishing company called ‘PowerHouse books’. I got to meet all the photographers, artists and designers they were working with on the books, people like Helen Levitt, Juergen Teller, Fabien Baron, Gerard Steidl, Craig McDean, all the Magnum photographers. At the time the internet was not developed so everyone had to stop by and drop off photos, check out lay-outs etc. It was an amazing hub for learning about any type of creation.

My first big job there was to do the editing and design for Larry Clark’s big artist book “Punk Picasso”. I learned what it meant to be an artist, and I was incredibly excited about that. Larry had an indirect link to fashion, using his very own style as a rebel and anti-establishement type of weapon that no one could question. Through working with Larry I got a beautiful insight to the heart

of the creative scene in New York. Arriving back in Paris as a young art director I got hired at Numero Magazine. I was fascinated by beauty and art so it felt like a privilege. At the time there was no real access to either fashion or art if you weren’t living it.

You didn’t want to miss anything because nothing was broadcasted. You wanted to live everything real time. Today I think the fashion system has lost its aura and sacredness due to social media, but it has gained in influence.

You have a great success and you’re sold in a great number of stores all over the world: what kind of woman do you design for?

We design clothes for women who love fashion, art and culture and enjoys to dress up and have fun with their wardrobe, without looking desperate for attention.

I would think that the Each x Other women is pretty relaxed about her style but likes to spend money on pretty things and good quality clothing. She most likely mixes Each x Other and other Independent Designer labels with some cool vintage fashion and also some more classic luxury styles.

What are the difficulties in the fashion world today?

The difficulties in fashion today is to come up with new ideas each season and still keep your core identity. In wholesale its all about being crazy and ‘trendsetting’ - every three months everything has to feel new and over-thetop. You want the clients to feel out-of-fashion so that they buy new each season and you want to catch their eye so that they choose you as their favorite new brand.

While in retail it’s the opposite, in a stand alone shop your consumer come back for something they liked last season and you want to give them a nice offer to complete their existing wardrobe. In the end you almost need to design two collections within each season. One that conducts your brand identity, and one that shows your creativity.

That is why many brands divide their collections into several labels. Like that they can balance different needs of the market without looking to compromising.

Difficulty however also means opportunity and I think a lot of people in fashion today are starting to let go of the system and try to find their own paths… Its the good thing with today’s globalization of fashion, you can find a system that works best for yourself and just go with that.

EACH X OTHER

AND INTELLECT GO HAND-IN-HAND Intervista con Jenny Mannerheim del marchio Each x Other che ci spiega la storia di questo fenomeno A Parigi abbiamo incontrato Jenny Mannerheim, una delle due menti creative dietro al brand Each x Other che, anche questa stagione, si rivela essere uno dei casi più intressanti della settimana della moda di Parigi.

Cosa puoi dirmi della vostra collezione s/s 2017? È stata ispirata dalle parole di “La società dello spettacolo” e dalla filosofia situazionista francese degli anni ‘60, infatti alcuni capi della nostra collezione hanno deliberatamente un aspetto non finito, senza forma, per esprimere una certa ribellione nei confronti della società odierna. La sfilata era ambientata nei giardini Tuileries del Louvre per affermare e offrire un tributo alla bellezza parigina e all’architettura di questo monumento straordinario che è anche uno dei più importanti musei al mondo.

Quali sono le fonti d’ispirazione?

La collezione “Oh la la land” s’ispira ai costumi per la danza dalle silhouette iconoclastiche da palcoscenico, ai costumi teatrali, alle uniformi e ai completi delle rockstar.

Ogni tipo d’abbigliamento e di accessori che ci ricordi gli spettacoli a teatro, al cinema e ai concerti.

Raccontami qualcosa di te, di come hai cominciato e che cosa pensi del sistema moda di oggi.

Sono stata da Parsons NYC dove facevo la stagista per l’edizione Americana della rivista Jalouse. Erano gli anni 1997-2000 e New York era frenetica, la moda era ovunque ed era tutto, ma dava ancora la sensazione di essere una storia d’amore esclusiva per addetti ai lavori.

Poi ho vissuto un’esperieza come direttore artistico junior della casa editrice ‘PowerHouse books’, dove ho incontrato fotografi, artisti e i professionisti, come Helen Levitt, Juergen Teller, Fabien Baron, Gerard Steidl, Craig McDean, tutti i fotografi della Magnum.

Il mio primo lavoro importante lì è stato l’editing e la progettazione del grande libro d’arte di Larry Clark “Punk Picasso”: ho imparato cosa significa essere un artista e questo mi ha dato un entusiasmo incredibile. Lavorando con Larry ho acquisito una profonda conoscenza del cuore della scena creativa di New York.

In seguito, rientrando a Parigi come giovane direttore artistico, sono stata assunta dalla rivista Numero.

Ero affascinata dalla bellezza e pertanto mi sentivo privilegiata, all’epoca non esistevano reali accessi al

mondo della moda o dell’arte se non li stavi vivendo.

Non volevi perderti nulla, volevi sperimentare tutto in tempo reale.

Oggi penso che il sistema moda abbia perso la sua aura e la sua sacralità a causa dei social, però ha acquisito autorevolezza.

Hai un grande successo e i tuoi capi vengono venduti in moltissimi negozi in tutto il mondo: per quale tipo di donna crei?

I nostri abiti sono pensati per donne che amano la moda, l’arte e la cultura e a cui piace vestire bene e giocare con il proprio guardaroba senza dover disperatamente attirare attenzione. Direi che la donna Each x Other è piuttosto rilassata rispetto al suo stile e ama spendere i propri soldi per cose belle e abiti di buona qualità. È probabile che abbini dei capi Each x Other con altri marchi indipendenti, con della moda vintage e degli stili classici di lusso.”

Quali sono le difficoltà del mondo della moda oggi?

“La difficoltà principale oggigiorno è avere nuove idee per ogni stagione mantenendo al tempo stesso la propria identità. Nella vendita all’ingrosso bisogna essere folli e stabilire nuove tendenze: ogni tre mesi, tutto deve sembrare nuovo ed essere esagerato. Vuoi che le tue clienti si sentano fuori moda così che comprino ad ogni stagione altri capi e vuoi colpirle per farti scegliere come il loro nuovo marchio preferito.

Nella vendita al dettaglio invece è il contrario: i consumatori tornano nei negozi perché sono stati soddisfatti da qualcosa della stagione precedente e quindi vuoi proporre loro una bella combinazione, che possa completare il guardaroba esistente. In pratica per ogni stagione bisogna quasi realizzare due diverse collezioni: una che rafforza l’identità del tuo marchio, l’altra che esprime la tua creatività. È proprio per questo che molti marchi dividono le collezioni in diverse linee, così possono bilanciare le diverse esigenze del mercato senza dover compromettere la propria identità. Comunque io credo che ogni difficoltà implichi anche opportunità e infatti direi che oggi molti nella moda stiano lasciando andare il sistema per cercare il proprio percorso… Questo infatti è l’aspetto positivo della globalizzazione della moda a cui assistiamo: ognuno può trovare il sistema che funziona meglio per sé e semplicemente metterlo in pratica.

29

COLLEZIONIDONNA

paris_london porto_copenhagen

PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017

TRENDS Sonia Perfetti Decio Vitali Fashion shows and backstage ph. Viero-Zanoni

Jacquemus

www.collezioni.info

TRENDS_COLOURS

67

paintparty Off White

TRENDS_COLOURS

Mulberry

69

London streetwear

Barbara Bui

Versus Versace

KochĂŠ

70

COLLEZIONIDONNA PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017

www.collezioni.info

Hermès

Issey Miyake

Rick Owens

London streetwear

Rick Owens

TRENDS_OVERSIZE

77

oversizedme Jacquemus

76

COLLEZIONIDONNA PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017

www.collezioni.info

Stella McCartney

Isabel Marant

Nehera

Jacquemus

Nehera

TRENDS_OVERSIZE

79

Paris streetwear

Undercover

Sacai

80

COLLEZIONIDONNA PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017

www.collezioni.info

Céline

Lemaire

Véronique Leroy

Céline

Véronique Leroy

TRENDS_RUCHES AND LACE

85

likeadancer Simone Rocha

84

COLLEZIONIDONNA PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Giambattista Valli

www.collezioni.info

Talbot Runhof

Moncler Gamme Rouge

86

COLLEZIONIDONNA PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017

Dorhout Mees

Emanuel Ungaro

www.collezioni.info

Giambattista Valli

TRENDS_RUCHES AND LACE

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Valentino

87

Carven

Bora Aksu

TRENDS_DENIM

95

blueasthenight azurelikethesky Ellery

94

COLLEZIONIDONNA PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017

www.collezioni.info

Off White

Junya Watanabe

Paris streetwear

Aalto

Paris streetwear

TRENDS_SPORTY

137

milliondollarbaby Paco Rabanne

138

COLLEZIONIDONNA PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017

www.collezioni.info

Each x Other

Enfants Riches Déprimés

House of Holland

Off White

Each x Other

TRENDS_ASYMMETRIES

145

sideways Ann Demeulemeester

John Galliano

146

COLLEZIONIDONNA PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017

www.collezioni.info

Louis Vuitton

Lanvin

Off White

Mugler

Lanvin

206 COLLEZIONIDONNA PRET-A-PORTER S/S 2017

Each x Other

www.collezioni.info

PARIS_SPOTLIGHT ON 207

EACH X OTHER

The group behind this Each x Other collection is perhaps the best of all time. It’s not Paris. It’s not Europe, in general. It’s not even LA, and this is precisely what makes it so very interesting. It represents that young metropolitan generation you find everywhere. The one that for every occasion chooses to dress comfortably, yet uniquely: sleeveless coats in denim or cotton, pretty white shirts, chemise dresses, and even trenches. The reason is simple: they’re exquisite and easy to wear. What the young crowd desires.

Il collettivo che si cela dietro a questa collezione di Each x Other ha prodotto forse la migliore di sempre: non è parigina, non è europea in generale e non è nemmeno losangelina, ma proprio per questo è decisamente interessante, perché rappresenta quella giovane generazione metropolitana che si trova ovunque e in ogni occasione ha voglia di indossare un abbigliamento comodo ma originale, come i soprabiti senza maniche in denim o cotone, le graziose camicie bianche, gli chemisier o i trench. Il motivo è semplice: sono belli e facilmente indossabili, perché questo vogliono i giovani.

M.F