CJ Trend Issue 2021 by Canadian Jeweller Magazine

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

42709013 | 920 YONGE STREET SUITE 608 TORONTO ONTARIO M4W 3C7 / $25

TREND ISSUE

TREND 2021 Vin Lee: King of the Hills C

2021 DIGITAL PRESENCE GROWTH

COLOUR INCLINATIONS

UE 2017

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JCK ISSUE 2017

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

WINTER 2021 ISSUE

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 138 / No. 02

ESTABLISHED 1879

Vol. 143 / No. 01

OLI V IER FELICIO C AY L A R A MEY COR R INA MOSCA SCOT T JOR DA N

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / cayla@thergmgroup.net Editorial Assistant / corrina@thergmgroup.net Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com

CEO Founder and Thoughtsmith Graphic Designer / daniella@thergmgroup.net OLIVIER FELICIO olivier@canadianjeweller.com

DA N IELL A V IZ Z A R I CONTRIBUTORS

Christine Dwane, Breanne Forbes, Larry Johnson, John Lamont,

& ArtLee, Director CREATIVE Design Shawna Joelle Litt, Mark Lutley, Duncan Parker, Karen Simmons MARCELO RAMOS marcelo@thergmgroup.net SALES Sales O L I V I E R F E L I C ITran O Advertising Phuong My, Tyson Roset, Dave Gordon and Karen Durrie CONTRIBUTORS tel: 416-203-7900 x6107 / email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com

INTERNATIONAL SALES

EDITE M A RTINS

Advertising Sales

MEHER VESAVEVALA tel: +91 9821136069 / mehernavaz@hotmail.com tel: 416-203-7900 x6112 / email: edite@thergmgroup.net PURVAZE BUXY tel: +91 9820129492 / purvaze@gmail.com HEAD OFFICE

920 Yonge Street, Suite 610, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7

Cover’s Photo

tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Vin Lee

MELANIE SETH

Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com

Grand Metropolitan

LUC Y HOLDEN

General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net

MONTREAL OFFICE

tel: 514-381-5196

CEO of Beverly Hills-based

Photo Courtoise of Vin Lee

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CHANGE OF ADDRESS

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PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express SUBSCRIPTION RATES written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted Canada — one year, $50; two years, $85; three years $120. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) plus applicable taxes. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. and its af liates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year. payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 920OF Yonge St., Ste. 608, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4. CHANGE ADDRESS email: circulation@canadianjeweller.com telephone: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392 or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller 920 Yonge St., Suite 610, Toronto, ON. M4W 3C7 PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 920 Yonge St., Ste. 610, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4.

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www.canadianjeweller.com @canadian_jeweller CJMagazine cj_mag Canadian Jeweller magazine

Departments, Features & Columns

Contents 12 EDITOR’S LETTER Is Micro-influencers the future of Word of mouth marketing? 14 CONTRIBUTORS Tyson Roset, David Duran and more 18 PRODUCT SHOWCASE Products from the hottest brands

26 32 48

22 BE THE STYLIST Great choices with STEELX 26 COVER STORY Vin Lee: King of the Hill 32 TRENDING A very good selection of the best Watches and Jewelries 2021 48 DESIGNER PROFILE Akeem Anishere 50 NEWS Gem & Jewelry Exports Industry, Teal Sapphires and more 62 SPONSOR CONTENT UPMR Refining Services 70 LAST WORD A 7 million dollar bag

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Editor’s Letter

6 Effective SEO Tips for store’s website Olivier Felicio, Editor-in-Chief

In today’s digital era, it has become an absolute must to have a measurable online presence. However, due to fierce competition, it is not that easy anymore. However, it’s not impossible either. Here are some proven and tested SEO tips. 1. Informative Content and Updated Website It is very important for you to maintain your store’s website. Informative content and an updated website can gain you the desired success. • Your page titles should be crisp & original as well as descriptive. It is necessary to have your contact information on each and every page of the website for easy access and more visibility. • To improve your search visibility in the local search, mention all the landmarks near your business area, this will help your online store to attract customers from nearby areas as well. 2. Update Your Business Listing on Various Local Listing Websites You have to ensure consistency and availability of your business’s listing information on various websites if you want to have a measurable ranking. • Keep a constant check on your contact information and business name, verify your contact details and make sure they are updated and accurate. Delete any duplicate pages. • Besides updating your listing, make your listing attractive and informative for your customers with content describing your business like photos, videos, website URLs, etc. • Make sure your business is listed in the appropriate category and with relevant keywords. • List your business as per its location. If your business is in multiple locations then create location-specific pages. 3. Create a Strong Link Strategy Create a strong link strategy by linking your store’s website to other websites, this will help you to build an authentic image. Therefore, don’t link to unrelated websites as it can have a negative effect. • Remember that your link strategy should be authentic. Otherwise, it can do more harm than good.

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4. Ask for reviews & respond to customer inquiries & complaints promptly Reverting to your customer’s reviews is a good move. Whether the review is positive or negative, revert with a satisfactory reply. Reviews play a major role in building the brand value of your store’s site. • Ask your customers to leave a review because nowadays 89% of customers see reviews before making a purchase. It also gives you a ranking boost. Also, don’t forget to collect their feedback by making them fill a survey while leaving or send them an email regarding the same. • Make sure you revert to all the reviews positive or negative. If a review is positive thank your customer and ask them to associate with your store in the future and if the review is negative satisfy your customer with a valid reason for their discomfort and ask them to connect to you to bring a solution to their problem. • Do not post false reviews because it can create a negative image and reduce your ranking in the search engines results. 5. Be connected to your customers via social media Social media is the best and easiest mode of communication to stay connected to your customers. Regularly update your social media pages to improve your search engine rankings. Attract more followers using high-quality content. • Create a strong and effective social media strategy. • Regularly update about your new product or services or new offers to attract more viewers. • Revert to your viewer’s comments or queries. This will create customer satisfaction and leave a positive impact. 6. Media coverage Getting Media coverage from a credible news channel or website will create a long-term and positive impact. It will provide you the level of branding, necessary to establish a business. Connect to the local media or blogging website and invite them to your workplace to enjoy your services, it will encourage them to write positive about your business and rate your services. You can send them Press Releases of events conducted by you or you can also invite them to the launch of new collections.

Contributors

Closing, Retiring Downsizing? Not sure of the options?

Tran Phuong My Tran Phuong My was born in 1988 at Ho Chi Minh city, Vietnam. Having studied and graduated with honors from the Academy of Art University in San Francisco, Phuong My has pursued perfection in all aspects of her fashion career.

Tyson Roset Growing up in a retail family, Tyson understands the daily challenges of a store owner and working retail. He started his wholesale career in Montreal with Polar Bear Diamond, Founded Roset Amore Diamond in 2006 and started managing Ofer Mizrahi Diamond’s Canadian division in 2019, then launching Green Rocks Diamonds of Canada in Jan 2020 from Vancouver. He works hard during the day but plays harder with his wife and kids at night.

We can help. Dave Gordon Dave’s writing work has appeared in more than 120 publications around the world, including Washington Times, National Post, Globe and Mail, BBC News, Baltimore Sun, Quartz, and Lifestyles.

Silverman’s Consultants have delivered sales strategy, direction, and solutions to jewellery stores of every size. Whether you’d like a transitional plan, retirement strategy, or a total liquidation, Silverman Consulting & Retail Services has the custom-made solution to create your successful sale event.

Give us a call to discuss your options. Karen Durrie Karen Durrie is a freelance writer living in Calgary, Alberta. She has written on a variety of topics for the Calgary Herald, Globe and Mail, StarMetro Calgary, Avenue Calgarymagazine, and numerous custom publications, such as the Calgary Foundation’s Spur. A graduate of Mount Royal University’s journalism program, Karen has experience as a beat reporter, freelance journalist, editor and public relations communicator, and has authored a number of books for the children’s educational market.

SILVERMAN CONSULTING & RETAIL SERVICES Saskatoon & Toronto | 1-888-955-1069 office@silvermancanada.com www. silvermancanada.com

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SERVING YOU FOR NEARLY 30 YEARS. BUY CANADIAN MADE GEMSTONE JEWELLERY.

Best Bargains www.bbjw.com

1.800.661.4871

27 Queen St. East, Suite 202 Toronto, ON, M5C 2M6, Canada

T: 416.214.2582

F: 416.214.4626

At GIA, gems endure even more pressure. Science and discovery underpins everything we do. Since 1931, the Gemological Institute of America® has been unearthing the truth about gems and creating industry standards. With unwavering commitment to accurate and unbiased methodologies, our dedicated research staff advances the knowledge the industry and consumers need to protect confidence in gems and jewelry. Our discoveries are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

BENEFICIATION

EDUCATION

Ensuring the Public Trust Through Nonprofit Service Since 1931

INSTRUMENTS

LABORATORY

RESEARCH

Spot

Angeliyah Jewellery Karen Simmons

Karen Simmons is a Graduate Gemologist (GIA), The Gem Gallerie proprietor and an author of nine books, including: Buying Diamonds forLaurie Pleasure and aProfi t and of award for the Soul, she of Bauld, mother four winning childrenChicken who areSoup the inspiration forwhich the name co-authored with Jack Canfield. Find more details about diamond S.P.A.R.K.L.E.™ in Perfectly Clear, which the jewellery line “Angeliyah”, a combination of her daughters’ names together. shares more information about Canadian diamond history and the true value of diamonds.

High vibrancy stones and crystals have always been a part of my world of travels and studies. As beautiful as they are to look at and wear, these carefully hand-selected pieces in the Angeliyah line are chosen with purpose and meaning. “I’d love nothing more than for their new owners to experience these benefits as well.” Laurie Bauld. Having a big imagination since childhood, Joelle’s styling career has been a natural fit and a constant evolution of creativity. Clients include Ria Mae, Future Hendrix, Priyanka Chopra, Joffrey Lupul, and publications Elle Quebec, TIME Magazine, Sharp Magazine, Clin D’Oeil and Canadian Jeweller! Find info on Joelle at joellelitt.com.

Joelle Litt

Duncan Parker

Not only is he VP and jewellery specialist at Dupuis Auctioneers in Toronto, but Duncan Parker is also vicepresident of The Canadian Gemmological Association and past president of Jewellers Vigilance Canada. An educator in gemmology and jewellery, Parker has worked in the industry for over 25 years. If anyone is qualified to be our gemmology columnist, it’s him.

Contributors

J.W. Histed Diamonds Ltd. Vancouver, B.C. Full cut Rounds—Single cut Rounds—Natural Colour Rounds—Treated Colour Rounds Straight Baguettes—Tapered Baguettes—Princess—Grooved Princess Heart—Oval—Pear—Marquise—Cushion—Trillian Emerald—Carre—Asscher—Radiant—Trapezoid—Half-Moon—Rose Cuts Available .03ct to 1/4ct+ single stones for a repair, matched side stones, to 25 stones for a Anniversary Ring

in-stock!...In-Vancouver!...IN-YOUR STORE!

OVERNIGHT! Contact us for a current price list or online at www.jwdiamonds.ca 1-800-663-1458 / 604-681-8519 / fax 604-681-2413

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Product Showcase

Fabergé Treillage Brushed Rose Gold & Multicoloured Gemstone Set Grand Ring features round white diamonds, blue and pink sapphires, rubies, tsavorites, fire opals and amethyst s, set in 18 karat brushed rose gold. The Treillage Collection is inspired by the Diamond Trellis Egg, created by Fabergé in 1892. The evocative designs, with their soft, tactile and gem-set quilting, represents the perfect marriage of heritage and modernity. www.faberge.com

Hamilton Ventura Quartz – The King of Rock ‘n’ Roll was known for the incredible flexibility that was the key to his signature dance moves. He embodied the American spirit and himself owned an original Ventura Flex. This is the inspiration behind the Ventura Flex, which revives the flexible bracelet for the ultimate twenty-first century tribute to Mid-Century Modern design. www.hamiltonwatch.com

GIA

Diving into the GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors™ | GIA Knowledge Sessions Webinar Series The GIA Cultured Pearl Classification Report provides retailers and consumers convenient access to detailed information based on the GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors TM – size, shape, colour, lustre, surface, nacre and matching. In addition, this report will include a digital image of the submitted item(s). Attached is an example of the report. Clients can submit their loose, mounted, strung or fixed in design pearls for a GIA Cultured Pearl Classification Report. This report is exclusively for the three major types of cultured pearls: Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearls. www.GIA.edu

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Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon is the quintessence of refinement, with its rich textural variation and the generous 29 mm diameter aperture looming over the dial that houses the shimmering 18-carat gold engraved moon floating in a blue guilloché night starry sky.

This movement supply a precision moon phase with one day deviation every 122 years and offers a unique easy-to-set feature with the addition of a second moon phases indicator visible through the transparent case back. www.arnoldandson.com

Piaget

Altiplano cufflinks in 18K rose gold and hematite or white gold and onyx. The pure, elegant lines of the ultra-thin Altiplano watch are reflected in these cufflinks. For major soirées and other events, all the masculine elegance of an assertive design. www.piaget.com

Asprey London Colour Chaos Pendant, 18ct White Gold – The Chaos Collection is named in reference to the deliberately disordered layout of stones used in each piece, encompassing a range of shapes, cuts and tones. Chaos celebrates nonconformity and the beauty of the irregular. The result is a collection of distinctive pieces encapsulating Asprey’s trademark playful eccentricity. Pieces are crafted from semi precious stones using open back claw set mounts. These allow light to pass through the stone in all directions, giving maximum shimmer and sparkle. The lack of apparent contrivance and artifice of Chaos’ design puts the focus on the stones rather than their setting. www.asprey.com

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Steelx Hammered band in antique black and matte steel. $45.00 High polished and Ip black textured bracelet with black CZ accent. 8.5+.05” adjustable link. $90.00

Be The Stylist

Steelx Natural Hematite adjustable bracelet. $60.00

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Steelx Sleek Dog Tag with high polished steel and IP gold plating. 24”. $75.00

Gabriela Pitliuk - Red Garnet and Black Agathe Ring Fully carved on natural black Agathe stone, this ring finished with a bright red Garnet can look modern and contemporary with a t-shirt, jeans and leather jacket, or vintage and classic with tulle and laces. Designer @ayajoias

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WWW.CARMENCO.COM • TOLL FREE 1-(888) 825-0527

Vin

Cover Story

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innKingLee: of the Hills by Dave Gordon

Glamour and luxury might as well be Vin Lee’s middle name.

ee’s jewelry collections have been worn by Hollywood stars, celebrities, royalty, and heads of states. His merchandise has been featured on high rated television shows, award shows and red carpets.

So who, precisely, is Vin Lee? He’s CEO of Beverly Hills-based Grand Metropolitan, managing a $7 billion portfolio of some 60 luxury brands. They range from the behemoth billion dollar industries as Heilig-Meyers Furniture, to Finlay Fine Jewelers. For a matter of context, Grand Metropolitan was one of the most influential wine and spirits corporations around the world, whose roots go back decades, and included hotels and dozens of consumer brands on both sides of the pond. He bought the brand in the late 1990s “specifically to represent all of our varied interests in the luxury world,” he explains. Grand Metropolitan brand names has been splashed all over as sponsors of PGA Tours, NFL Super Bowl events, NASCAR, international film festivals, Formula 1, and brand marketing campaigns. Spooling back to the late 80s, success came early for Lee, who became a selfmade millionaire in his late teens.

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One of his first breakthrough ideas was inventing specialized mechanical illuminated marquee signs – now a $6 billion global industry – used by McDonalds, Walt Disney, Blockbuster, Universal Studios, Las Vegas, and Ripley’s Believe It Or Not Museums, and scores of others. Applications for his patents numbered 100,000 for retail franchises. Seeds of ingenuity and ambition were planted early, when his first experience overseeing a known brand came when he wasn’t even old enough to legally drink alcohol. Michigan’s Grand Traverse Resort including legend Jack Nicklaus’ Golden Bear course, developed a top-line reputation for national events, but its mammoth expansion, that included luxury homes, was a cost too great to bear. By the 1992, the resort developer filed for bankruptcy, unable to reconcile an $80 million debt. Lee saw opportunity. With a proposal for turnaround, Lee scored meetings with Grand Traverse management, and negotiated a three year mandate to rescue the sinking ship. And that he did, rebooting the resort to have the look and feel of an elite destination, a world-class spa and golf mecca. His first foray into the jewelry industry was at age 22, from a celebratory stop to buy a Rolex President at DuQuet Jewelers, to reward himself for the successful campaign with the Resort. Enchanted by the proprietor’s stories on the topic, Lee made his first investment in the jewelry industry, then and there. He bought the store, a five-decade old business, from its owner, who had already succeeded in building the brand’s reputation by selling upper-tier tailor-made offerings, and products that had become centerpieces of several annual black tie events. Ambitious as well as knowledge-hungry, he rolled through a quarter century’s worth of trade magazines, sustaining his keen interest to today. This introduction to the diamond market, and what he dubs “outsized ambition” is what spurred his continuing interest gobbling up the industry’s brands.

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As a result of his achievements, he says he has “been very fortunate to rub elbows with some of the most successful people in the world.” Lee’s own creative pieces have been worn by celebrities, diplomats and royalty; adorned by stars at awards ceremonies. In 2001, he invented the “Tennis Earring” also called “the ear cuff”, which premiered at Cannes Film Festival, later to be featured on The Tonight Show with Jay Leno, and countless red carpets. The diamond suite was debuted at the Cannes Film Festival where the daughter of the French President Mitterand wore several pieces. Today, you can find the diamond “ear cuff” on red carpets and TV screens around the world, by beautiful ladies like Jennifer Lawrence, Ivanka Trump, Kelly Anne Conway, and Ariel Winter. He launched the Diamond Channel, in collaboration with several North American large jewelry manufacturers, in what became the largest global online jewelry database. It featured more than 46,000 SKUs, each with over 128,000 different design selections, for limitless custom choices. Redubbed the Diamond Standard, Lee sold it to the owners of Labelux (now JAB Holdings owner of Kuerig), then operated Jimmy Choo, Bally, Derek Lam and Zagliani.

“The new economy has changed the way we live, shop, and do business. But in 20 years it is no longer the Pets.com or Diamonds.com that people trust with their purchases,” he says.

It featured more than 46,000 SKUs, each with over 128,000 different design selections, for limitless custom choices. Redubbed the Diamond Standard, Lee sold it to the owners of Labelux (now JAB Holdings owner of Kuerig), then operated Jimmy Choo, Bally, Derek Lam and Zagliani.

It wasn’t always a smooth ride for the industry, though. The last recession was unkind to iconic jewelry retailers, who began defaulting on overextended credit. The heavyweights – Zale Corporation, Town and Country, Michael Anthony Jewelers, and Aurafin (Berkshire Hathaway’s Richline Group) – were sinking; while the Signet Group, the largest worldwide jewelry company, cut 300 locations. So many other known names, too, were closing shops. It didn’t help that the price of gold dipped to lows not seen since the 70s. In 2009, Finlay Enterprises – whose footprint was found in 1,100 department and free standing stores and earning a $1 billion in annual revenue– filed for bankruptcy protection, buckling under more than half-billion dollars US debt. Two years later, Lee’s company Grand Metropolitan acquired some of the company assets including the Finlay brand. Finlay’s products have graced the red carpets of events as the Golden Globes, Academy Awards, Grammy’s, among many other glam events. Today, Finlay Fine Jewelers has continued to grow into the largest privately held jewelry group in North America, recently adding Samuels to the portfolio. (Samuels was earning $100 million from about 100 locations, once among the top five jewelry chains in America.) “The new economy has changed the way we live, shop, and do business. But in 20 years it is no longer the Pets.com or Diamonds.com that people trust with their purchases,” he says. “Legacy brands that buyers have been loyal to for decades and sometimes even centuries, are demonstrating their strength online. It is our goal to preserve those relationships, and the integrity of those brands.” Vin Lee – in addition to his merchandise – continues to shine brightly, not just leaving a mark on the industry, but in many ways, leading it.

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Awards of E xcellence

2021

Are you the best of the best? The competition has evolved! It is no longer possible to ignore the significance of social media on the jewellery industry. Now, the first round of the Excellence Awards will require you to post images with detailed descriptions of three products of your choice that you feel best to represent your brand. You must post the images on your Facebook or/and Instagram page, tag in the post Canadian Jeweller, and use #awardsofexcellece and #canadianjewellers as well as the hashtag that represents your category the best. The posts with the most likes and engagements will be nominated and entered for the second round of the competition, where Canadian Jeweller experts will professionally judge the nominated profiles and choose a winner.

Why should you participate in the competition? In addition, to the exposure you will receive from having your products featured in the magazine and on our website, you will also have the opportunity to offer your AOE piece for auction at The Great Jewellery Heist, a prestigious event held in support of Bridgepoint Active Healthcare, which will further enhance your brand awareness and raise money for a great cause. A tax receipt will be provided for donated pieces that are accompanied by a third-party appraisal for fair market value, as per CRA guidelines.

*Please Note* You will have to state the category that your line belongs to in the details of your submission/post. A list of the categories is provided below: • • • • • • • • • •

Retail Brand of the Year - #cjretailbrand Best Canadian Diamond Design - #cjdiamonddesign Industry Innovation of the Year - #cjinnovation Jewellery Manufacturer of the Year - #cjmanufacturer Best Coloured Gemstone Design - #cjgemstonedesign Best Platinum Design - #cjplatinumdesign Outstanding Canadian Enterprise of the Year - #cjcanenterprise Outstanding International Enterprise of the Year - #cjintenterprise Retailer of the Year - #cjretailer Supplier of the Year - #cjsupplier

Learn more: http://canadianjeweller.com/awards-of-excellence

Admission Requirements for the Second Round: • The completed nomination form available on canadianjeweller.com • A $100 entry fee per nomination • Photographs of the product/product line being nominated • Samples of advertising campaigns, brochures, etc. marketing the product line • Testimonials from at least two Canadian retailers

Trending

Watch Tren 2021 A TRIBUTE TO THE PAST, A STEP TOWARD A CLEANER ENVIRONMENT, AND A PARTNERSHIP MADE TO LAST Breitling announces the launch of the Superocean Heritage ’57 Outerknown, the third watch in collaboration with Outerknown, the sustainable apparel brand co-founded by surfing legend Kelly Slater. With its bronze-colored dial and Outerknown ECONYL® yarn NATO strap, this modern-retro sea watch expresses the cool, laid-back lifestyle associated with the surfing scene in Southern California and Hawaii in the 1950s and 1960s. It is available with a classic stainless-steel case or as a limited-edition model with an 18 k red gold bezel for anyone who wants to make an even bigger splash.

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The Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Outerknown

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Diver 300M Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 42 mm “James Bond” Limited Edition Celebrating its enduring partnership with James Bond, OMEGA has created this Seamaster Diver 300M Limited Edition timepiece presented in its own presentation box with an additional stainless steel bracelet. With only 7,007 pieces available, the 42 mm stainless steel watch has a black rubber strap and features an 18K yellow gold plate on the side of the case, engraved with each Limited Edition number. There is a black ceramic bezel with a white enamel diving scale, as well as a spiral-brushed black ceramic dial, which has been laser-engraved with a gun-

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barrel design. Its centre is exactly 9mm in diameter. 18K yellow gold is used for the hands, hour-markers and Bond family coat-of-arms at 12 o’clock. Elsewhere, the number 7 on the date disc is in the 007 font, and a secret number 50 is hidden in the luminescent material of the 10 o’clock hour-marker – a reference to the 50th anniversary of the James Bond film “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”. On the inner side of the sapphire crystal caseback, you will find the Bond family coat-of-arms metallised in gold and black. Inside, the watch is driven by the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800.

The Longines Legend Diver Watch goes bronze

Longines combines the original beauty of the most remarkable of its former products with cutting-edge watchmaking technology. The Heritage models are a tribute to the pioneering spirit that has inspired Longines designers since the company’s early days. The brand’s products accompanied many pioneers in their adventures in the air, on land and under the sea. The very core of Longines timepieces is based on this expertise. They demonstrate the continuity of a brand and that brand’s continual ability to pay tribute to history through refinement and elegance.

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The Breitling AVI REF. 765 1953 Re-Edition your co-pilot for life

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In 1953, Breitling launched its Ref. 765 AVI, a pilot’s watch (AVI stood for “aviation”) known as the “Co-Pilot”. It had a particularly bold look with a rotating bezel and oversized Arabic numerals, and its impressive legibility made it a favorite among aviators. Breitling is honoring this classic chronograph’s legacy with the AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition.

An OMEGA Trésor in gold with a new mesh bracelet

Three new additions have been added to OMEGA’s popular Trésor line, with each one crafted in the brand’s own 18K Moonshine™ gold. For women who adore the slender style and simplicity of this collection, it’s a chance to further raise the levels of luxury and choose a timepiece that shines with exceptional beauty. The new models are sized at 36 mm, with cases crafted entirely from 18K Moonshine™ gold. First introduced in 2019, this distinctive alloy is inspired by the moonlight in a dark blue sky. It offers a paler hue than traditional 18K yellow gold, and also has a high resistance to the fading of colour and lustre over time. Another new Trésor feature is the addition of mesh bracelets. Crafted with a silklike pattern, these classically-styled straps fit elegantly and comfortably around the wrist, and are the very first metal bracelets within the collection.

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Iconic Aesthetics Rolesor, a marriage of gold and steel

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Rolex is introducing four new white Rolesor versions (combining Oystersteel and 18 ct white gold) of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31. The first watch, featuring a bezel set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds, has an aubergine, sunray-finish dial that is adorned with a diamond-set Roman VI. The three other versions are fitted respectively with a mint green, sunray-finish dial, white lacquer dial, or dark grey, sunray-finish dial, and a fluted bezel in 18 ct white gold. The hands and index hour markers or Roman numerals on all four watches are also in 18 ct white gold. The light reflections on the case sides and lugs highlight the elegant profile of the 31 mm Oyster case. These new watches are equipped with calibre 2236, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

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URWERK UR100 in 2N Gold Edition This new creation is the fourth episode in the UR-100 intergalactic saga, recounting the adventures of an atypical time instrument written, produced, and directed by the horological studio URWERK. Approaching light speed, the UR-100 pushes the boundaries of technology, design, indications, and functionality. “Science fiction has been an inexhaustible source of inspiration since the creation of URWERK,” explains cofounder Martin Frei. “I have been a sci-fi geek since childhood. My father was an engineer and worked on incredible projects, including the Apollo Lunar Rover. He was my hero and left me his love of the cosmos and his dreams. “ First and foremost, the UR-100 is slim – extra-flat for a satellite-geared watch – with angular contours; it’s an elongated octagon with three notched sides. The form uses subtle asymmetry, taking clues from Han Solo’s Millennium Falcon. This UR-100 is cut from a solid block of 2N yellow gold, it’s surface satin-finished to the same pale shine as the Star Wars droid. Topping the case is a sapphire crystal bubble reminiscent of the shape of the first URWERK models, the dome housing the control center of this intergalactic visitor. The UR-100’s astrophysics govern the URWERK universe with rotating satellites displaying the hours and minutes. Isochronal revolutions create a miniature cosmic ballet, the hour satellites also displaying minutes as they traverse 120 degrees across the bright green scale. A bold red arrowhead marks the confluence of hours and minutes, offering a unique, highly legible, and intuitive time display. Even while maneuvering at light speed, the automatic winding system is never overloaded thanks to the Windfänger’s regulation of the oscillating mass: this planetary gear limits the speed of rotation of the rotor, minimizing both excessive winding and wear and maximizing reliability and lifespan.

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Trending

Jewelry

Contact Info Email: contact@volund.ca

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Trend 2021 Night Cat

Large, transformable, designer brooch in 18K white gold, set with diamonds, Tahitian pearls, and moonstones. This jewel can be worn in multiple ways to suit various occasions: as a pendant on a chain (included), as a full brooch (via two gold clasps at the back), and as a smaller brooch (by unfastening the pendulum Tahitian pearl). This piece includes both contemporary and classic elements, combining sculptural and abstract elements. It suggests a feline spirit, surrounded by a halo of rays and an undulating pendulum below, swinging gently like a cat’s tail. Inspired by the glowing shrines of Southern Italy and the intricate gold work of the ancient reliquaries, both mysterious and foreboding.

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Torch Ring Modern, designer cocktail ring in 18K white gold set with diamonds with intricate details. A serpent coils around the wearer’s finger, stretching towards the light of the torch depicted by a large pear-shaped diamond and surrounded by a pave of diamonds. Monochromatic, symbolic, and dazzling creation - a true artwork. Inspired by the mystery of creation, simultaneous attraction and repulsion of serpents towards light and heat, and the importance of torches to dispel not only darkness but also creatures of fear and imagination.

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Meteor Ring LETICIA TOLENTINO Inspired by the beauty of astronomy, this ring mix raw stone, gemstones, pearls and silver 950, in a clear reference to meteors. The Galactique Atmosphère collection remind us about that old habit lost by the megalopolises citizens: watch the sky. @letolentino_jewels

Sculpture with spheres ELISABETTA DONADIO Scultura ring, 925 silver, is internally created by hand, gold-plated and, subsequently, antiqued in some parts. Its round shapes recall what is unconsciously related to the universal language that is inside each of us. @gioielli_dalla_terra

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Handmade Talismans for Urban Nomadic Explorers

Weinan Pan ethical jewelry ispired by her ancestry ON GOING SURFACES EXPERIMENTATIONS By nature, sterling silver, which constitutes the main material of Pan’s jewellery, oxidises and becomes uneven, which she then exploits through a series of experimental finishes and textures. Gold accents are incorporated to further contrast with the murky blacks and greys. Firmly believing in environmental and social contribution, Pan uses only recycled silver, gold, and ethically sourced gemstones. Pan’s jewellery presents the beauty of unrefined nature. The finishes will continue to change with time and wear and no two pieces are alike.

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MOON NECKLACE The moon was fundamental for ancient civilizations in many ways. It ruled the tides, indicated when to harvest certain foods, and was the natural source that indicated the best period for women to generate precious lives. Black rhodium contrasting with the Zirconies and golden natural pearls.

Gabriela Pitiluk

@mothtoaflamejewelry. Designer @ayajoias

Sara Drew “I make contemporary statement jewellery from found objects combined with sustainable semi-precious stones, linked together with hammered eco-silver, recycled gold and brass chains and fused recycled silver pieces. Using recycled materials in this way is a sustainable way of creating unique pieces that aren’t a strain on new resources and whose material components are traceable. It’s also a way of cleaning up our environment and getting harmful materials such as plastic out of the food chain. I like to challenge ideas of preciousness by combining these found materials with gold and semi-precious stones so that each material is showcased in the same way, and the value of found materials and the environmental weathering processes on them is appreciated as much as the gold and stones.” by Sarah Drew Designer @sarahdrewjewellery

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Abbi Marie ALIFEROUS “From the Latin alifer, meaning “winged”. Aliferous is a hybrid of different winged insects. I referenced various species ranging from butterflies and moths to dragonflies and cicadas, creating a new creature that appears to flit around the wrist. Each sterling silver wing was hand-cut, pierced, filed, and textured. The bracelet is composed of eight hinged segments with an antenna-inspired clasp bringing them together.” by Abbi Marie Designer @mothtoaflamejewelry

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Ilaria Demo De Lorenzi I CONTAIN MULTITUDES “What can be hidden in an object? What can be linked to it? “I contain multitudes” it’s something that means a lot to me. I tried to put all myself into it and I’m so happy you appreciate it too. The series was the second collaboration between me and @sara_dresti. “I contain multitudes”. A shooting made with @sara_dresti and @mathimos. The series can be found on sale at @artisticafc in Forlì (Via Lazzaretto 17, Italy) in a limited edition.” by Ilaria Demo De Lorenzi Designer @ilariademodelorenzi

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Designer Profile

Akeem Anishere Mr. Akeem Aníshéré actually began as a trained sculptor. He studied under a renowned Nigerian artist, Abayomi Barber at Center for Cultural Studies, University of Lagos; and also studies at Yaba College of Technology, Lagos, Nigeria; Camden Art Center; and Central School of Art and Design, London, England; the Gemological Institute of America, Carlsbad, California; and the 3D Jewelry Designs Institute, Los Angeles, California. He is listed in the book entitled “Nigerian Artists Who’s Who and Bibliography”, published in Oxford England in 1993 for the Smithsonian Institute Library National Museum of African Art in Washington, D.C. Mr. Akeem Aníshéré’s artistic creativity is evident in his jewellery designs and in transforming precious metals and the finest quality gemstones into extraordinary works of art. This multi-talented artist was featured in the April 2007 issue of Black Enterprise Magazine in the article entitled “All That Glitters.”

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Pavit Gujral The Crab Earrings have been set in 18K gold with 22.90cts heart brilliant Tanzanites, 10.49cts orange Sapphires, 2.50cts pink Sapphires, 0.68cts yellow Sapphires and 6.16cts Diamonds. As totems, Crabs are symbols of intuitive nature, perseverance, self-sufficient behaviour and sensitivity. @pavitgujraldesigns

The Langur Earrings have been set in 18K Gold with Pear Brilliant Morganite Beryls, Tahitian Pearls, Princess-cut Diamonds, round Brilliant Diamonds and Orange Sapphires. Inspired by India’s leaping Langurs that can be holy, helpful or even pesky, these are one of Pavit’s most playful earrings! @pavitgujraldesigns

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News

Teal Sapphires: Wear a piece of the Ocean & the Forest at once Writing by Gemologist & Journalist Isabella Yan

Top quality Australian teal sapphire of 6.11 carats, courtesy of Navneet Gems & Minerals Ltd.co. Photograph by Arjuna Irsutti

THE ERA FOR TEAL Widely known as teal, this dark cyan-like hue was originally named after the bluish-green stripe around the eyes of an Eurasian duck. In recent years, the gem’s mesmerizing marine hue - reminiscent of serene oceans and the mysterious green of our lands has redefined the jewellery market for unique colored gemstones, capturing the imaginations of consumers especially amongst the millennial and Gen Z. The USA is amongst teal sapphire’s most ardent consumers, followed by Australia, France, UK, and Asia. Public awareness regarding teal sapphires has grown in the last five years and will continue to grow, says Navneet Agarwal, Marketing Manager of Navneet Gems & Minerals Limited Co., a gem manufacturer based in Bangkok. LIKE A MERMAID Bold flashes of soft green mixed with a kiss of blue, teal sapphires have earned various trade names like “Mermaid” sapphire. “Mermaid sapphires are a

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subset of teal sapphires which have a specific color ratio of 50% blue and 50% green. Mermaid sapphires are the top color of teal sapphires,” says Agarwal. He speculates that this 50-50 color ratio of blue and green may have the potential to scale up in prices like a perfect padparadscha color. “Like padparadscha, each teal sapphire appears to have a unique personality reflected in its color variations.” The main sources of teal sapphires are Montana, Australia, Madagascar, Ethiopia and Nigeria, all equally important with differences in tone, intensity and brightness. Teal sapphires have been actively mined for more than 100 years in Montana’s Rock Creek and Potentate Mining is among the industry’s premier local producers. “Montana’s teal sapphires have sporadically been on the market since the late 1990s. When we tested the market in 2014-2015, there was general ambivalence and dismissiveness about these unique colors from the Rock Creek Sapphires but we have seen a paradigm shift,” says Warren

and deeper undertone to the classic blue sapphire.” Apart from color, clarity, cut, the stone’s origin due to consumer patriotism also plays a role in their purchasing decisions. Regarding Montana teal sapphires, Boyd thinks “American consumers are keen to purchase American-mined products that are recovered in an environmentally responsible and ethical manner.” Capucinne also says “what matters most about origin to us is that they are responsibly and ethically sourced, whether they’re from Montana, Australia, Nigeria or Madagascar.” Teal sapphires offer something new in the world of gemstones and the desire to possess them will only intensify as more gem and jewellery lovers become enchanted by their beauty. Teal Montana Rock Creek Sapphires™ courtesy of Potentate Mining LLC. Gem cutting and photography by Jeffrey Hapeman - Earth’s Treasury Rose cut teal sapphires from Gombe, Nigeria, courtesy of Caleb B. Quashen International

Boyd of Potentate Mining. He adds, “We could accredit this surge in interest to the discovery of the first teal sapphires in Montana.” According to Agarwal, “the interest also piqued when Australian teal sapphires were discovered with their unique coloring, yielding both teal and only a few rare mermaid sapphires of excellent quality. The challenge lies in finding rare top-grade teal or “Mermaid” sapphires of superior clarity and cut. “We source our teal sapphires from wellknown mines all over the world. The choice of source depends on the quality and their ethical sourcing.” Most teal sapphires from Montana and Australia are responsibly sourced using mechanical mining to ensure processes are closely regulated throughout the supply chain. Whereas those from Madagascar and Nigeria are predominantly mined by artisanal miners. “Its exquisite color and rising popularity is also helping them establish new markets for this non-traditional, unique color sapphire,” says Agarwal. Caleb B. Quashen International, a gem supplier specialising in ethically sourced obscure gems, helps to support African artisanal miners. “We see purpose and beauty in all the different qualities of teal sapphires and pride ourselves in using stones with eye visible inclusions. We do not cherry pick, instead we buy it all and that means the full unearthing effort.” Caleb adds that “every origin has the ability to produce spectacular specimens and the veteran eye can get pretty good at noting the distinctions.”

Emerald cut teal sapphire from Gombe, Nigeria, courtesy of Caleb B. Quashen International

Darlene Radiant Teal sapphire engagement ring by Capucinne

MAGNETIC APPEAL With the emergence of the alternative bridal market, teal sapphires are providing a new palette for designers and consumers who gravitate towards less popular gems in search of jewels that define their individuality. There are multiple reasons for their appeal. First, their unique coloring due to a perfect balance of titanium and iron, makes them a more personalised alternative to the traditional blue sapphire engagement ring. Second, compared to top blue sapphires, teal sapphires are much more reasonably priced. Third, besides sharing a color with lagoon tourmaline from Afghanistan, Teal sapphires have greater hardness with 9 on the Mohs scale and higher refractive index, opening up great possibilities for the engagement market. Slovenia-based jewelry brand Capucinne, specializes in alternative engagement rings is a prolific employer of teal sapphires. “We liked these stones from the start as they were the perfect solution for those looking for something blue but wanted a modern

Marisol Teal sapphire engagement ring by Valerie Madison

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Gem and Jewellery Exports industry an example of Aatmanirbhar Bharat and Vocal for Local The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) proposes several measures like reduction in cut and polished diamonds to 2.5%, reduction in import duty of gold and other precious metals to 4%, Technology Upgradation Fund (TUF) Scheme for G&J industry; need for additional Common Facility Centres (CFCs) and many more to strengthen the gems and jewellery export sector. The measures are part of GJEPC’s recommendations for FY 22 Union Budget to the Ministry of Finance • Reduction in import duty on Cut and Polished Diamonds from 7.5% to 2.5% • Reduction in import duty on Precious metals Gold/Silver/Platinum from 12.5% to 4%; • Reduction of import duty on cut and polished precious and semi-precious gemstones from 7.5% to 2.5%; • Removal of Basic Custom Duty of 0.50% on rough colour gemstones; • Amendment in taxation provisions to allow sale of rough diamonds in the Special Notified Zone in Mumbai; • Extension of the existing Scheme for Common Facility Centres for 5 years; • Technology Upgradation Fund (TUF) Scheme for G&J industry; • Fixation of Minimum import price and Hike in Import Duty on Imitation Jewellery; • Introduction of “Rates & Taxes Refund” Mechanism through EDI system similar to GST refund; • Increase in import duty on cut & polished [worked] Cubic Zirconia from 5% to 15% and Zero for rough Cubic Zirconia from 0.50% to curb import of finished products; • Hike in Import Duty on Synthetic Cut & Polished Stones from 5% to 25%; • Amendment/ clarification on online Equalisation Levy. Mumbai, December 7, 2020: The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), the apex body for promotion of gems and jewellery exports has proposed several measures as part of recommendations to the Ministry of Finance for the upcoming Union Budget for the fiscal year 2021-22. The officials of GJEPC have met the Finance Minister and made their representations recently. Some of the major aspects of budget representation are duty cuts which are primarily for gold import, cut and polished diamonds, reduction of import duty on precious and semi-precious gemstones etc. The demand from GJEPC includes import duty reduction on cut and polished diamonds from existing 7.5% to proposed 2.5%; also the import duty on cut and polished precious and semi-precious gemstones from 7.5% to 2.5%. Also the Gold and other precious metals import duty has been proposed to reduce from existing 12.5% to proposed 4%. Apart from the reduction in duties, GJEPC has proposed many other recommendations to make India, world’s largest gems and jewellery exports and a trading hub. Commenting at the announcement of recommendations for the Union Budget for the fiscal FY 2021-22, Colin Shah, Chairman, Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), said, “This year has been tough for everyone and we sincerely acknowledge the Government for taking prompt measures to get the

economic momentum back on track. Particularly for the gems and jewellery industry, the Government has ensured that barring the lockdown period, exports didn’t stop during the pandemic. The gems and jewellery exports industry is a perfect example of Atmanirbhar Bharat and Vocal for Local, which are the government’s policy to make India a self-reliant country and to make the Indian economy one of the largest in the world.” “A 100% import based sector, Gems & Jewellery employs 4.3 million people, contributes 7% to India’s GDP and is a predominant leader in cutting & polishing of diamonds. To make the industry competitive and achieve Global leadership position we are hopeful that the Government will accept our proposed recommendations in the Union Budget”, added Chairman Colin Shah Vipul Shah, Vice Chairman, GJEPC, said, “India is the 5th largest exporter of gems and jewellery, contributing 5.8% of the global gems and jewellery exports demand of US$629.06 billion. The world over, India has been perceived as a potential global leader in jewellery exports due to the sheer talent pool and expertise the country has developed through decades of hard work. The industry requires constant Government support for ensuring the sustainable development of the industry and generating additional employment. I appeal to the Government to provide favourable export and domestic policies to elevate the gems and jewellery exports sector to the next level.” The Budget recommendations from GJEPC for the Union Budget for the fiscal year 2021-22 are as follows: • Reduction in import duty on Cut and Polished Diamonds from 7.5% to 2.5%. With an objective to reduce the Current Account Deficit and inflating imports of cut and polished diamonds in the country, the Government of India had increased the import duty on polished diamonds from 2.5 % to 5% in February 2018 and to 7.5% in September 2018. The Council proposes that exporters be allowed to import 10% of the total CPDs exported by volume (carats) at nil duty. • Reduction in import duty on Precious metals Gold/Silver/Platinum from 12.5% to 4%.

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Multiple increase in import duty on precious metal gold had resulted in gold coming in from countries such as South Korea and Malaysia, with whom India has signed Free Trade Agreements (FTAs), thus increasing the price arbitrage in the domestic markets. The resultant gap in the price of official gold imported through the banking channel and unofficial imports is hurting manufacturers/ retailers/bullion importing agencies/refiners and many others involved in the tax compliant business systems. The high import duty is indirectly creating a disincentive to the organized players in the industry. A lower Basic Customs Duty (BCD) on gold should help make the unofficial route for gold imports unattractive. • Reduction of import duty on cut and polished precious and semi-precious gemstones from 7.5% to 2.5%. Imports of worked Coloured Gemstone in DTA in terms of value is reduced from Rs.600.64 crore in 2017-2018 to Rs.310 crore indicating reduced processing work on the worked coloured gemstones worth Rs.290 crore. Retaining the 2 lakh workforce employed in the coloured gemstones and related jewellery industry prior to the COVID pandemic. To create additional employment for 30,000 workforce in the jewellery manufacturing sector within a period of two years. Combined exports of both coloured gemstones and related jewellery is estimated to increase by US$200 million within a period of two years. • Removal of Basic Custom Duty of 0.50% on rough colour gemstones. Basic Customs Duty is only 0.5% but the yield on conversion of Rough Gemstones into cut & polished gemstones (finished goods) is between 8% and 10%. Hence effect of this duty on finished goods is 5% which means our cut & polished gemstones shall become costlier by 5%. Due to levy of BCD @ 0.5%, there is delay in clearance of import shipments of rough gemstones. • Amendment in taxation provisions to allow sale of rough diamonds in Special Notified Zone in Mumbai. If sales are permitted, at least 20% of the rough diamond trading will be shifted to SNZ and the Indian Government will be able to collect additional tax of US$3.48 million (equivalent to Rs. 23.20 crore). Currently only viewing rough diamonds is permitted in SNZ and no sale is allowed. Till date, 11 million carats of rough approximately valued at US$ 1.97 billion have been sent to Mumbai SNZ on consignment/viewing basis and after bidding/tender, diamonds are shipped back to destinations like Antwerp, Dubai to be invoiced to the winner of the bids. Carat Tax has been made applicable from fiscal year 2016 (tax year 2017). The regime is compulsory for diamond-trading companies that are registered in Belgium, but its scope is restricted to the turnover generated by genuine diamond trade. Turnover generated by other activities, such as services provided, are taxed separately as they are not in the scope of the Carat Tax. • Extension of the existing Scheme for Common Facility Centre for 5 years. The GJEPC with funding from MoC&I and support from Local Trade Associations (LTA) have set up 4 CFCs in Phase - I in Gujarat for Diamond industry. Will be setting up 6 additional CFCs under Phase - II focusing on Jewellery sector, of which 4 will be ready to start operations by February 2021. The CFC scheme as observed for Phase - I centres, have helped to bring transformational change in the clusters by helping the SMEs, in enabling them to process the goods at door steps, safe dealings of goods, reducing the mfg. cost, completing 100% process without depending upon the principal manufacturers, employment generation, quality improvement, etc. Based on such experience, we are confident that the scheme will act as a catalyst for transformation of the clusters covered under Phase - II. Looking at the success of the CFCs set up and gaining of self-sufficiency of the LTAs in running such centres, the CFC Scheme is becoming more and more popular amongst the trade PAN India. Various

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associations have approached the GJEPC for setting up CFCs at their cluster. Keeping in view the new requirements and to complete the work of centres covered in Phase - II, MoC&I is requested to extend the scheme tenure till FY 2025-26 to enable GJEPC cover approximately 30-40 clusters under the scheme. Identification of such clusters will be based on the study done by NCAER and found feasible though proper study as per the procedure stated in the scheme document. The budget allocation of approximately Rs. 120-160 crores may be made under the scheme based on Rs 4 crores approximately to be the cost of each CFC. • Mega CFC for Atmanirbhar Bharat, will make gems and jewellery sector self-reliant. The Mega CFC supports the ‘Make in India’ and “Atmanirbhar Bharat” initiative of the Government of India. The Mega CFC will make the Gem and Jewellery industry self-sustainable in terms of technology and provide best possible support to make India the global thought leader in the field of innovations and ideas for the gem & jewellery sector. • Technology Upgradation Fund (TUF) Scheme for G&J industry. Technology gap is one of the major challenges of the gem and jewellery sector, in order to infuse advance technology so as to enhance productivity, reduce cost, improve quality and spur innovations and also to face global competition the GJEPC proposes Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme; - 5% Interest Subsidy / Deferred Payment Guarantee Scheme / 30% Capital Subsidy Scheme / Incubation Centres Expected No. of units that would benefit out of the TUF scheme 1000 in 2 Years. And expected cost involved will be Rs.224 crore. • Fixation of Minimum import price and Hike in Import Duty on Imitation Jewellery. The demand for imitation jewellery would certainly see a rise in the present times of COVID. - Recommending following corrective actions • Fixation of minimum value for import purpose • Increasing the import duty on imitation jewellery under HSN 7117 • Ban on import of imitation jewellery containing hazardous material like lead, nickel, cadmium etc in excess of quantities prescribed under internationally accepted laws in this regard like US Government’s Proposition 65 as the significant exposure to these compounds/ chemicals may cause cancer, birth defects and other reproductive harm. It is important to note here that most of the countries restrict import of any product breaching the limits prescribed for hazardous materials. • Proposing Introduction of “Rates & Taxes Refund” Mechanism through EDI system similar to GST refund. Also, the rate of refund should be aligned with the Rates & Taxes (i.e. Import Duty) prevailing as on the day of export. Refund of both the GST as well as Rates & Taxes (i.e. Import Duty) should be permitted • Increase in import duty on cut & polished [worked] Cubic Zirconia from 5% to 15% and Zero for rough cubic zirconia from 0.50% to curb import of finished products. Increasing usage of synthetic stones in Jewellery has created demand for it, for which our industry is mostly dependent on imports due to the fact that our production is insufficient, and we do not produce calibrated quality stones. Hence, import duty on cut & polished [worked] Cubic Zirconia may be increased from 5% to 15% and Zero for rough cubic zirconia from 0.50% to curb import of finished products. • Hike in Import Duty on Synthetic Cut & Polished Stones from 5% to 25%. Hike in import duty on finished synthetic stones would provide level playing field to our local manufacturing and help in import substitution • An appropriate amendment/ clarification on online Equalisation Levy is requested to ensure that the diamond sector is not burdened with the EL.

Opposites always attract:

Aarkish x Jewels 4 Ever

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While this pandemic has been for the least we could say the most unseen challenge that hs taken us on uncharted territories, long time jewellers Anita Agrawal (of Jewels 4 Ever/Best Bargains) and Anita Bhandari (Aarkish Diamonds) have discovered that dreams can come true when you have a little bit more time on your hands and some excess inventory. Agrawal specializes in gemstone jewellery, ranging from $200 to $2000, while Bhandari specializes in custom diamond pieces that often exceed $10,000. Both of them are 2nd generation jewellers and you would hardly guess that they have 72 years of jewellery experience between them. Why did you choose to collaborate on pieces together? Agrawal: Well, Anita B asked me if I wanted to speak to the FGI Toronto group which she is a board member. We had such a great time in that conversation that I immediately asked her if she wanted to create some youtube videos together. Shortly thereafter, we found each other constantly sending photos of pieces that we liked on Instagram almost 5-6 times a day, and we realized we had a similar aesthetic while learning new things about jewellery making through our informal exchanges. Though we’ve known each other for 20 years, we never thought of working together, but this pandemic made it happen. Bhandari: I was always impressed by Anita A’s collection of gemstones. They have some of the most beautiful and rare stones I’ve seen. I asked her one day “What are you doing with all these stones, we should make something with them. Don’t hold yourself back from making something higher end.”

How can collaborating on designs be a valuable experience during these challenging times? Agrawal: I always wanted to make some fancy pieces but was always intimidated by the process. When you collaborate with someone who is in the same industry but specializes in something completely different, your learning curve is exponential. Toronto has so many incredible artisans and goldsmiths, so it was a great time to actually utilize some of those resources. Bhandari: I learned a lot about coloured stones but was also able to help Anita realize the potential of coloured gems for higher-end designing. I learned that some coloured gems, like alexandrites, are rarer and more expensive than diamonds in some cases. Working with someone else can be a very fun experience. Where you can take a little bit of a risk and just brainstorm on ideas together. What advice do you have for others who are wary of collaborating? Agrawal: Find a partner whom you can trust. Someone who has a similar vision to you. Most importantly set the ‘intention’ of designing to ‘fun’. If you set the intention to ‘fun’ you are more relaxed and there’s less pressure. Bhandari: Find a partner whose skills complement your own. We both learned so much by designing our pieces together. Our approach as designers was very different – where Anita A starts out with price and colour in mind, I start out with a design in mind. Bringing those two concepts together really helped us set up realistic objectives with our pieces. So far the collaboration has resulted in two very extraordinary pieces (exclusive to CJ magazine) with 5 more on the way.

14kt Green Gold Earrings set with 84 rare colour graduating alexandrite stones approximately 7.5cts, 2 green Afghan Aquamarines, weighing 30.96cts, and several diamonds. Total Weight 30.96gms.

14kt White and Yellow Gold Pendant with over 18cts of natural sapphires and 0.73cts of natural yellow fancy diamonds. Total weight 35.7grams.

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nited Precious Metal Refining, Inc. (UPMR) is the largest US-owned primary refiner and among the top three alloy manufacturers for the jewellery industry globally. Since 1988, they have been servicing both the PAWN and JEWELLERY industries. Recognized for their commitment to the environment and meticulous implementation of compliance procedures to ensure responsible sourcing, UPMR is proud to service tens of thousands of customers worldwide. UPMR’s unique corporate structure combines refining services, jewellery products such as karated grain, master alloys, wire, sheet, tube and solder, and analytical services. As a PRIMARY REFINER, all metals are processed and refined to a purity of .9999 fine in-house at UPMR’s facility in Alden, NY. The scrap is recycled to make new jewellery products that are used by manufacturers around the world to make new jewellery. UPMR processes GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and PALLADIUM. They specialize in refining for the jewellery industry, processing everything from scrap to polishing sweeps. From the smallest karated scrap lot to the largest, their advanced technology provides their customers the maximum returns, with the most competitive charges, on karated and dental scrap, crucibles and slag, silver scrap, polishings/tort filters, filings and grindings, tools, carpet,

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More than just a Refiner, UPMR is a global supplier of metals for the jewellery industry. UPMR’s products, including but not limited to solder, wire, sheet, tube, master alloys, karated grain, bullion and sterling silver (made from 100% recycled gold and silver), are world renowned with distributors in 22 countries including the USA, Brazil, Canada, Chile, China, Colombia, England, Hong Kong, India, Israel, Italy, Mexico, Peru, Russia, Singapore, S. Korea, S. America, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey and UAE. Innovation has always been at the core of UPMR’s product division developing renowned formulas for gold, silver, platinum and palladium jewellery. Housing a state-of-the-art analytical laboratory, UPMR’s equipment is able to detect all payable metals in their customers’ refining lots thus offering higher returns and superior service. They understand manufacturing processes and equipment used in jewellery manufacturing. UPMR’s unique corporate structure combines their exceptional levels of detail and customer service, refining, analytical services and innovative jewellery products. This combination of products and services and their financial strength and stability are just some of the reasons they are able to navigate through shifting market conditions as well as industry trends since 1988. Their philosophy is simple; their success can only come from your success. They continue to strive to make your company more productive with improved products and innovative services. The combination of their innovative master alloys, expertise in refining, and over 30 years of industry experience, it’s no wonder their customers refer to them as “Simply the Best.”

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

To know more about us, please visit www.cjjewelsinternational.com

A D V E R T I S I N G

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21 Dundas Square, Suite 805 Not Open to Public, Wholesale only Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7 55 queen st e #1100 toronto, on m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898 Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883 email: lala.diamond@hotmail.com

CAD-CAM for for Jewellers Jewellers CAD-CAM

Over 20 Years Experience lala.diamond@hotmail.com Software ~~ Machines Machines ~~ Training Training ~~ Support Support Software

Newmodels modelsof ofSolidscape Solidscape 3D 3D printers printers ••New Laserwelders welders&&engravers engravers ••Laser RhinoGold--leading leading jewellery jewellery design design software software ••RhinoGold LearnJewellery JewelleryCAD CAD\in inCutters Days -- Free Free Intro Training ••Learn 99 Days Training of Intro Rough Diamonds

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Tel: 416-368-6883

New Address!

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55 Queen St. East.

Lower Concourse # 105

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These are can help Givetough us a call decisions...We to discuss your options.

WITH CORPORATE LOGOS

Prestigious, well established Vancouver workshop seeking full time, bench jeweller/ goldsmith, preferably European trained. Candidate must have the following qualifications: Excellence in Gemmological Education • 10+ years’ experience since 1958 • accreditation from a reputable institute • advanced skills in hand forging jewellery in gold, platinum and silver from sketches Courses offered: Professional Gemmology • extensive knowledge of metals, diamonds and gemstones • ability to carve waxes Jewellery Appraisal, Diamond Grading • excellent communication skills in English

We’ve been building custom retail jewellery solutions for We’vethan built25custom jewellery more than more years inretail Canada. Givesolutions us a call for to discuss 25 years in Canada. See our half- page ad in this issue. your options. (See our full page ad in this issue) Saskatoon SILVERMAN MEMBER OF: Saskatoon & Toronto& Toronto CONSULTING 1-888-955-1069 1-888-955-1069

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G oing S tore Closin g? Re tir f Busine ss? EXPERIENCED & MOTIVATED SALES REP NEEDED g o ut e CALL rTODAY TODAY FOR CATALOG OR YOUR CALL FOR re me nt?OR iCATALOG o fYOUR QUOTE

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These are tough decisions...We can help A wellare established ‘diamond and jewellery company’ These tough Advertise where it counts! counts! Advertise where it is We’ve lookingbeen for abuilding results-driven The ideal candidate customsales retailrep. jewellery solutions for

JEWELLERS BLOCK POLICY The INSURANCE applicant must be1800 experienced in the diamond and222 Saskatoon & Toronto Toronto Saskatoon & www.cnij.com 1800 www.cnij.com 739 2645 ext CONTACT: Olivier Felicio Felicio CONTACT: Olivier jewellery industry, be trustworthy, have1-888-955-1069 excellent communication 1-888-955-1069 416.203.7900 6107 or or skills, and aSOON? 416.203.7900 xx 6107 interpersonal passion to succeed. 74andRENEWING olivier@thergmgroup.net olivier@thergmgroup.net All inquiries will be treated confidentially.

We’ve been building custom retail jewellery solutions for 2017-05-02

will oversee accounts and expanding our CALL TODAY FOR CATALOG OR YOUR QUOTE CALL TODAY FOR CATALOG OR YOUR more than 25existing years insales Canada. Give us us call to discuss discuss more than 25 years in Canada. Give aa call to For more information on how to For more information on how to client base across Canada. your options. (See our full page ad in this issue) advertise inCanadian Jeweller magazine your inCanadian options. (See ourmagazine full page ad in this issue) advertise Jeweller

STERLING SILVER

Canadian Gemmological STERLING SILVER Association david@cnij.com 3:03 PM

Further your studies at the Toronto campus: Master Valuer Jewellery Appraisal Program

david@cnij.com

WEELLLLEERR..CCOOM M JJCCK K IISSSSU UEEoffice@silvermancanada.com office@silvermancanada.com CCAANNAADDIIAANNJJEEW 22001177

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Serious inquiries only. Please send your resume to: infosalesrepno.1@gmail.com

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Diamond LaLa Diamon 2017-05-02 3:03 3:03 PM 2017-05-02 PM

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Olivier Felicio | 647-748-4746 | olivier@thergmgroup.net

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Call CJB 416-787-3472

2017-05-02 3:03 2017-05-02 3:03 PM PM 2018-07-11 9:20 9:20 AM 2018-07-11 AM REFINING • ASSAYING • DIAMOND DEALER • PRECIOUS METALS DEALER REFINING • ASSAYING • DIAMOND DEALER • PRECIOUS METALS DEALER

• Cutter Cutte

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A D V E R T I S I N G

• Cutters • Old Mine Cuts Highest Return and Price Guaranteed Bullion Products in Stock Diamond R • Buy Visit www.xau.ca for Latest Live Pricing

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For more on how advertise in thein classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller please A D Vmagazine Emagazine RT Iplease Scontact: I contact: N GOlivier Forinformation more information ontohow to advertise the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller Edite Felicio Martins(416)-203-7900 (416) 203-7900ext. ext. 6107 6112or oremail e-mailolivier@thergmgroup.net edite@thergmgroup.net.

J.W. Findings & Stones Ltd.—Vancouver, B.C. Same Day Shipping / Overnight Delivery Coast to Coast!

wExperience ww.b Over 20 Years lala.diamond@hotmail.com

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

Findings & Metals

\ Cutters of Rough Diamonds \ Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes \ Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

10k, 14k, 18k, 19k, in white, yellow, & rose gold S/S, Gold-Filled, Platinum, & Palladium

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We are proudly a 100% Canadian Company! 1-800-663-1458 / www.jwfindings.com / info@jwfindings.com Master Valuer Jewellery Appraisal Program

MANUFACTURER OFFERING FANTASTIC COMPACT SIDELINE 14K & 18K DIAMOND & GEMSTONE.

The Canadian Gemmological Association is now offering the full Master Valuer Jewellery Appraisal Program in class. This course is approved under the Private Career Colleges Act for The Canadian Gemmological Association teaching in Ontario. Please contact the office for more information or visit our website at www.canadiangemmological.com

Known for one of the lowest markups and highest quality in the industry. 917-836-0146

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Ramesh Mistry Tel: 416-368-6883

Wholesale Only

New Address! 27 Queen Street East, Suite 907 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6

classified

Not Open to Public

55 queen st e #1100 toronto, on m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898 Master Goldsmith/Jeweller Prestigious, well established Vancouver workshop seeking full time, bench jeweller/ goldsmith, preferably European trained. Candidate must have the following qualifications: • 10+ years’ experience • accreditation from a reputable institute • advanced skills in hand forging jewellery in gold, platinum and silver from sketches • extensive knowledge of metals, diamonds and gemstones • ability to carve waxes • excellent communication skillsjewellers in Englishwith all the products and A full-service boutique firm that provides retail

services to have a successful assortment to serve their patrons, as well as merchandising Compensation is based on experience and includes paid vacation and extended health marketing services. Allaunder onephotographs roof. www.eradbrandmanagement.com benefiand ts. Please reply by email with resume, of work and 2 references to carla@carlawilson.ca Harold Cilevitz harold@eradbrandmanagement.com Tel: 647.363.5802 x3 / Fax: 416.703.6392

The Canadian Gemmological Association

C A NSt A DE, IAN J E W ELower L L E R . CConcourse, OM JCK ISS U E 2 0 1 7 Ont, M5C 1R6 55 Queen #105 Toronto, Tel: 647-466-2436, Fax: 866-757-9603 www.canadiangemmological.com info@canadiangemmological.com

Awards of

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E xcellence

www.bamiyansilver.ca

2021 JEWELLERS BLOCK INSURANCE POLICY RENEWING SOON?

2017-05-02 3:03 PM

Are you the best of the best?

Hearts

The competition has evolved! It is no longer possible to ignore the significance of social media on the jewellery industry. Now, the first round of the Excellence Awards will require you to post images with detailed descriptions of three products of your choice that you feel best to represent your brand. You must post the images on your Facebook or/and Instagram page, tag in the post Canadian Not Open to Public Wholesale Only Jeweller, and use #awardsofexcellece and #canadianjewellers as well as the that represents your category the best. 55 queen st e #1100hashtag toronto, on m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898

Call CJB 416-787-3472 www.jewellersblock.com

The posts with the most likes and engagements will be nominated and entered for the second round of the competition, where Canadian Jeweller experts will professionally judge the nominated profiles and choose a winner.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

CANADIAN SHOW ISSUE 2018

JCK ISSUE 2017 CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Olivier Felicio | 647-748-4746 | olivier@thergmgroup.net

Why should you participate in the competition? marketplace_showcase_REV.indd 75 MARKETPLACE.indd 80

In addition, to the exposure you will receive from having your products featured in the Tmagazine ourC A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C 2017-05-02 R E N D 2 0 2and 1 I Son SUE O M 3:03 PM 2018-07-11 9:20 AM website, you will also have the opportunity to offer your AOE piece for auction at The Great Jewellery Heist, a prestigious event held in support of Bridgepoint Active Healthcare, which will further enhance your brand

Last Word

A 7 Million Dollar bag to save the oceans The Italian brand Boarini Milanesi is launching a 6 million euro bag (approximately 7 million US Dollars), the most expensive ever in the world. It has been created to raise awareness on the need to protect our seas, which are becoming even more threatened than usual by non-biodegradable plastics due to the Covid-19 pandemic. 800 thousand euros (approximately 950 thousand US Dollars) of the proceeds will be donated to cleaning the seas. The brand has decided to create this bag for a very precise reason, linked to the personal story of one of the brand’s two founders and designers, Matteo Rodolfo Milanesi. Matteo Rodolfo, who lost his father when he was just a teenager, has lots of memories of him linked to the sea.

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